MEG MEG for Selfridges & Co. Autumn / Winter 2014: Origami Collection Women’s RTW Buying & Product Development 1 Megan Rodrigues
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Table of Contents ¤
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Selfridges ¤
Moodboard & Background Information
3-4
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Marketing Mix SWOT Analysis
5-7 8
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Strategic Development Creating Profit
9 10
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Innovation Curve
11
MEG ¤ ¤
Range Definition & Pen Portrait Rangeplan
12 13
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Fabrics
14
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Buying Season, Phasing, & Timeline Sizing
15-17 18
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Sourcing Pricing
19-20 21
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Inspiration Board Colors & Fabrics
22 23
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Visual Rangeplan Specification Sheets
24 25-30
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Selfridges & Co. ¤ Founded by Harry Gordon Selfridge ¤ “Make shopping fun, adventurous, and welcoming” ¤ High-end Department Store ¤ Additional revenue-makers: ¤ ¤
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Miss. Selfridges Selfridge Hotel
Innovation: Window displays // featured in Vogue, NY Times, WGSN, Design Week Architecture // Birmingham Store covered in 15,000 aluminum spun discs In-store // “The Wonder Room,” educational exhibitions, & rooftop entertainment Adverts // First British retailer to advertise on television
¤ Acclaimed as “Best Department Store in the World” ¤ “Shopping is entertainment. It’s not just about the product, but about the smile, the packaging, the whole ambience.” - Vittorio Radice
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Marketing Mix Marketing Mix // the combination of variables for a brand or product to meet consumers needs profitably. It is often referred to as the 4 P’s, but over recent years has expanded to the 7 P’s due to the importance of service being recognized as a benefit that can be bough by customers. Every fashion brand has its own unique Marketing Mix, with each of the P’s contributing to the customers perception of the brand image.
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Marketing Mix ¤ Product // The fashion product; refers to the complete package of benefits offered to the consumer within and associated with the product. ¤ Price // The retail selling price consumers have to pay. It should represent value, compared to competing alternatives. ¤ Promotion // A wide range of elements - from product labels/packaging to in-store visual merchandising and advertising/press relations (PR). It also refers to incentives designed to increase sales, which include markdowns, vouchers, and incentive sales (eg. BOGO’s) ¤ Place of Distribution // The channels through which the products are sold. Important issues include the accessibility, location, available selling space, layout and presentation of the channels. Customers must have access to sufficient choice of styles, colors, sizes, and price-points, with stock being changed regularly to maintain fresh fashion looks. ¤ People // All individuals including - customers, suppliers, and staff. For a fashion retailer to succeed in selling its products it must ensure that all the people involved in the supply chain have a clear understanding of the customers’ product needs and expectations. ¤ Process // The intended customer experience of the retail facility. This ranges from the store/ website layout to more specialist personal shopping or home-delivery features. These vary considerably among small boutiques, multiples, and department stores. ¤ Physical Evidence // The presentation of the store/website (eg. fascia, windows, communication of in-store information, stock display, condition of stock and staff). Also includes promotional materials (eg. in-store signage).
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Selfridges & Co. Marketing Mix ¤
Product // Branded merchandise & store brand (Bespoke service, Selfridges Selection) , Product categories: apparel beauty to home goods to food & technology
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Price // Ranging from £1 to upwards of £5,000, wide range: mostly high end and designer
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Promotion // In-store collaborations (LV x Kusama), innovative window displays, Selfridges card, The Yellow Bag, In Store & Online Sales, “What’s On?” event advertising
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Place // 4 UK stores – Flagship on Oxford, environmentally conscious store and suppliers, Manchester Exchange store - each level designed by a different architect
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People // 15,000 million customers a year at Oxford alone, celebrity clientele, popular tourist attraction, 3,000 employees + brand ambassadors, Chinese language training at Manchester store
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Process // Online presence: website, Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, Pinterest, Youtube, Higher end brands: salesperson per brand with brand training
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Physical Evidence // The Yellow Bag, minimal signage using only 3 colors and clean layout, consistent VM in windows and in store, shop in shop for high end designers
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Selfridges & Co. SWOT Analysis Assessing a brand based on it’s Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, & Threats Strengths Strong service reputation -3000 employees
Innovative ideology Depth of products
Weaknesses Overwhelming volume/size -consumers can get frustrated when they cannot find what they want
-ranges from affordable to luxury
Initial brand perception
Opportunities International presence
Threats Experimental dept. stores
Trend setting
Popularity of the pop up
-especially in the US and China -influential power to influence consumers choices
-capitalizing on Selfridges’ USP
-a well known name is becoming out of date. Consumers want things new and fast
Consistent innovation
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
MEG Strategic Development
MEG provides an innovative and original product focusing on an already developed market segment for women who want minimal yet structurally defined apparel, thereby creating a successful business model.
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Creating Profit Meg for Selfridges & Co. will increase business and create profit by… ¤
Launching a product using new fabric technology fusing plastic with manmade and synthetic fabrics to create a new hybrid fabric.
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Creating a product for an existing market where information and statistics on consumer needs is readily available
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Filling a gap in the market where apparel of this quality, price, and aesthetic is previously unheard of and not supplied by existing brands
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Adhering to sustainable manufacturing practices and creating relationships with our suppliers to extend the life of the brand
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Blending the aesthetic of MEG with the innovative platforms of Selfridges & Co. to further improve the brand image and success
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
MEG Target Consumer & Innovation Curve
Meg’s consumers are those who are tapped into the newest fashion trends and industry news. Once they see something trending, they are one of the first to get their hands on it and search out similar designers.
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
MEG Range Definition & Pen Portrait
MEG ¤
STRUCTURED // ARCHITECTURAL // ANGLED // MINIMAL // CLEAN
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MEG offers a new alternative to the minimal trend - inspired by architecture, the Japanese art of origami, and paper art.
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Our collection is comprised of statement pieces able to be worn together or with pieces already in your wardrobe.
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Name: Sarah Berkley Age: 25-35 Area: Mayfair, London Occupation: Head Architect for a Japanese based firm Income: $130,000 Marital Status: Single
Key pieces include cutout dresses, structured shoulder details, and angled seams emphasizing various parts of the body.
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How Sarah wears MEG: TO show off her creative aesthetic and background in architecture.
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Muted colors schemes create a simple backdrop to the amazingly complex and structured apparel.
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Without fuss or embellishment, MEG prides itself in quality necessary for a product of such originality in the marketplace.
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As MEG is a leader in the industry for trend development, we also look for the very best in innovative fabrics and surface texture
Loves: Technology conferences, following World news – especially infrastructure and technology related, typography and calligraphy, architecture, reading DESIGN magazine, androgyny, Asian food, graphic design, Japanese design, avant garde fashion, minimalism, art museums, modern art, luxury goods, quality fabrics, positional goods
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ARTISTS WE LOVE… Matthew Shlian, Lisa Rodden, Zaha Hadid
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Dislikes: Femininity, chiffon, florals, prints, Primark, shapeless clothing, the ‘messy’ look, reality TV and gossip columns, camping, backpacking, vintage clothing
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Rangeplan ¤ Inspiration // Inspired by Japanese origami and paper artists such as Matthew Shlian, this season we fold and crease fabric to create original shapes and structures to live and play in. Following the steps of designers such as Irina Shaposhnikova, Gareth Pugh, Mary Kantranzou & David Koma, architectural pieces are at the core of our brand. The Saatchi Gallery’s recent exhibition on Paper served as a launching pad for our own designs similar to the ethereal work of Marcelo Jácome’. ¤ Styles // Featuring outerwear, tops, and pants, this collection is meant to be easily worn with each other or combined with those classic pieces already sitting in your wardrobe. ¤ Color // To accent the complex structures of these pieces, the color palette remains simple: pastels, shades of white, & a neutral khaki to mirror the white, crisp quality of paper. With palettes taken from WGSN, we assure that our hue choices are always on trend.
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Fabrics ¤ Outerwear : stiff, durable, warm ¤ Interfaced woolen plastic-fused shell ¤ Cotton facing ¤ Silk Lining ¤ Weave: Twill ¤ Tops / Dress: stiff, crisp, cool ¤ Interfaced nylon plastic-fused shell ¤ Nylon facings ¤ Weave: Basket
¤ Fabric Shows: ¤ Premiere Vision (Paris) ¤ “Constant fieldwork, and a unique ability to anticipate, are the twin engines driving Premiere Vision’s development” ¤
¤ Pants: stiff, cool, little drape ¤ Heat set nylon shell ¤ Nylon facings ¤ Weave: Twill
http://www.premierevision.com/
¤ Bread & Butter (Berlin) ¤ “represents the contemporary segment of Street and Urbanwear.” ¤
http://www.breadandbutter.com
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Buying Seasons & Advertising
Advertising is a powerful tool used by marketers to enhance the appeal of a product and drive sales. With advertising, sales will increase sharply at first and then decline quickly, at which time the buyer or merchandiser can schedule another group of products to “hit� the stores. This will keep the consumer coming back and buying more, thereby continuously creating profit.
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Phasing
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Timeline MEG for Selfridges 2 hits: Autumn & Winter Weeks 35-48 Delivery 1: Autumn • Haru Vest • Aki Top • Mio Pant Weeks 41-52 Delivery 2: Winter • Yuki Coat • Miku Dress • Rei Top
As MEG is a new brand for Selfridges & Co., we are implementing 2 hits so that the customer can be introduced to the brand and once seduced, are able to find more products as the season progresses into winter.
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Sizing Size
UK
US
XS
4
0
S
6
2
S
8
4
M
10
6
M
12
8
L
14
10
Our philosophy is that our beautiful pieces should not be saved for a special occasion. That said, our garments can often be difficult to wear if not within a certain size range, and therefore we have truncated our size offerings at a UK 14. As a designer brand, we cater to our core customer base as noted in our pen portrait, which is displayed in our limited size offerings.
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Sourcing Pros & Cons ¤ China ¤ ¤
+ : low cost of labor, mass production (large volumes), infrastructure in place, transparent processes, detail oriented, efficient, reliable - : follow directions too closely, communication issues, long lead times
¤ India ¤ ¤
+ : good for embellishment /colorful prints /madras /hand-woven look /pintucks / laces, creative people (can use their own discretion), typically FFG (fully factored garments) - : not as ethically transparent, does not export locally made textiles,
¤ Italy ¤ ¤
+ : high quality (good for luxury market/designers), good for men’s suiting, weather good for silk dying - : expensive, “tomorrow” syndrome (not dependable on deadlines)
¤ Britain ¤ ¤
+ : small top up factories for fast fashion retailers, luxury market, good for tweeds/ tartans/wools, hand-crafted - : very expensive (only luxury markets can afford)
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
MEG Sourcing ¤ Our manufacturers are based in China, where we work with them to create the complex, original shapes seen on our products. Although China is known for their mass production and high volume runs, we are willing to pay the extra cost of having them create our products so that we can ensure the quality is up to our standards. This is reflected in the higher pricing of the garments themselves. The attention to detail is what makes our pieces unique, which is why we only source our garments to China.
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Pricing
Price architectures are a way for brands to create perceived value in their brand and persuade customers to purchase their product. Creating levels of pricing makes it accessible to the lowest income in their target market while their higher pricing makes customers perceive it as a highly desirable brand.
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
WE ARE INSPIRED BY‌ Matthew Shlian Bliss Lau Lisa Rodden Louise Goldin Zaha Hadid Chromat
Inspiration // MEG A/W2014: ORIGAMI
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Colors & Fabric // MEG A/W2014: ORIGAMI
Interfacing
Wool
basket weave
Cotton
plain weave
Nylon
Silk
silk / sateen weave
Color forecast courtesy of WGSN
Nylon
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
Rangeplan // MEG AW2014: ORIGAMI
Fabrics
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
FRONT
BACK
YUKI coat Style Nbr: J AW14 – 01
Trims & Details
$1000.00 RSP
$333.00 CP (Cost Price) 66.7 % Margin arm hole
YUKI COAT Collection: A/W 14 [ORIGAMI] Delivery: Weeks 41 - 52 Description: Cocoon jacket with open front, button neck closure, and bound welt pocket in lining Fabric: Interfaced woolen plastic-fused shell, cotton facing, silk lining Trims: Geometric shank button, invisible zippers at armholes Size: UK 4-14 Size Ratio: UK 4/1, 6/2 , 8/4, 10/4, 12/2, 14/1 Country of Origin: China
Fabrics
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
FRONT
HARU vest Style Nbr: V AW14 – 01
BACK
Trims & Details
$900.00 RSP
$300.00 CP (Cost Price) 66.67 % Margin
HARU VEST Collection: A/W 14 [ORIGAMI] Delivery: Weeks 35 - 48 Description: Sleeveless zip front vest with lapped pronounced center front, outer zipper pockets, and bound welt pockets in lining. Fabric: Interfaced woolen plastic-fused shell, cotton facing, silk lining Trims: Exposed center zipper and invisible pocket zippers Size: UK 4-14 Size Ratio: UK 4/1, 6/2 , 8/4, 10/4, 12/2, 14/1 Country of Origin: China
MEG for Selfridges & Co.
side zipper
Fabrics
A/W14: ORIGAMI
FRONT
BACK
MIO pant Style Nbr: P AW14 – 01
Trims & Details
$300.00 RSP
$100.00 CP (Cost Price) 66.67 % Margin
MIO PANT Collection: A/W 14 [ORIGAMI] Delivery: Weeks 35 – 48 Description: Cropped pant with no waistband, front and back darts, and 3-dimensional front seam. Open pockets at side seams. Fabric: Interfaced nylon plastic-fused shell, cotton facing Trims: Invisible zipper on left hip Size: UK 4-14 Size Ratio: UK 4/1, 6/2 , 8/4, 10/4, 12/2, 14/1 Country of Origin: China
MEG for Selfridges & Co.
Fabrics
FRONT
A/W14: ORIGAMI
BACK
REI top Style Nbr: T AW14 – 01
Trims & Details
$600.00 RSP
$200.00 CP (Cost Price) 66.67 % Margin
REI TOP Collection: A/W 14 [ORIGAMI] Delivery: Weeks 41 - 52 Description: Tent sleeveless top with central pyramid under bust and tent bottom wings. Connects to back at top of sleeves and lowest point of bottom wings. Fabric: Interfaced nylon plastic-fused shell, cotton facing silk sheath lining Trims: Top stitching on angled seams, slip on through bottom – no closure Size: UK 4-14 Size Ratio: UK 4/1, 6/2 , 8/4, 10/4, 12/2, 14/1 Country of Origin: China
MEG for Selfridges & Co.
Fabrics
FRONT
A/W14: ORIGAMI
BACK
AKI top Style Nbr: T AW14 – 02
Trims & Details
$500.00 RSP
$166.00 CP (Cost Price) 66.8 % Margin
AKI TOP Collection: A/W 14 [ORIGAMI] Delivery: Weeks 35 – 48 Description: Tent sleeveless top with diamond bodice under bust with large backed loop in the center. Connects to back at top of sleeves and sides of diamond bodice. Fabric: Interfaced nylon plastic-fused shell, cotton facing silk sheath lining Trims: Top stitching on angled seams, slip on through bottom – no closure Size: UK 4-14 Size Ratio: UK 4/1, 6/2 , 8/4, 10/4, 12/2, 14/1 Country of Origin: China
Fabrics
MEG for Selfridges & Co. A/W14: ORIGAMI
FRONT
BACK
side zipper
MIKU dress Style Nbr: D AW14 – 02
Trims & Details
$900.00 RSP
$300.00 CP (Cost Price) 66.67 % Margin
MIKU DRESS Collection: A/W 14 [ORIGAMI] Delivery: Weeks 41-52 Description: Cap sleeve dress with high v neck and side cut outs and pronounced center front. Fabric: Interfaced nylon plastic-fused shell, cotton facing silk sheath lining Trims: Top stitching on upper shoulder/sleeves seams, invisible zipper on left hip Size: UK 4-14 Size Ratio: UK 4/1, 6/2 , 8/4, 10/4, 12/2, 14/1 Country of Origin: China