Along the Ocean Road
Autumn is the ideal season to take to two wheels for some leisurely exploration of rural Japan. by Megan Waters
Onomichi port
T
he Nishiseto Expressway, commonly known as the Shimanami Kaido, is a “highway above the sea” that links Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture with Imabari on the island of Shikoku. Completed in 1999, the 70-kilometer stretch of road straddles six islets in the Seto Inland Sea by a series of suspension bridges. The island-to-island roadway includes the world’s longest skew arch bridge and incorporates pedestrian and cycling walkways, making it a popular cycling route for all abilities. A great two- or threeday getaway for intermediate cyclists or a longer trip for families, this often-forgotten corner of Japan provides some of the most spectacular scenery the country has to offer. We chose to extend the journey into a loop, taking in Matsuyama in Ehime Prefecture and finishing up in Hiroshima City. Departing Shinagawa Station by bullet train, we arrived at Shin Onomichi Station
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four hours later. We unpacked our bikes and cycled the 4 kilometers to Onomichi, the official start of the trek. At our destination, we found the Onomichi U2, a group of converted portside warehouses that houses a modern hotel, restaurant and café. A great example of urban regeneration, Onomichi U2 is the perfect spot to stay at the beginning or the end of your trip, and the stylish hub also includes a cycle store where you can rent bicycles, buy last-minute equipment or have small repairs done. The course from this point uses local roads and specially built cycle paths to follow the expressway. It’s well maintained and marked with a blue line. The route is reasonably flat and hugs the coastline, although the ramps leading up to the bridges include smallish inclines and can be a challenge at times, especially for beginners. The usual bridge toll fee has been waived for the time being to encourage tourists.
There are many opportunities to stop at idyllic beaches along the way to cool off in the sea during the summer months, as well as chances to sample the local produce from the many citrus farms that are ubiquitous in the area. After seven hours, we reached Imabari, home to a large cotton-processing industry, with an emphasis on towels, Japan’s largest ship builder and a castle. There are plenty of accommodation options, including campsites, along the way, but you’re advised to book in advance during school and public holidays. With sore legs, we set off for Matsuyama on open roads along the coast. Within an hour or two, almost every member of our party had acquired a puncture. Cycling through rural Japan, largely bereft of cycle stores, we soon learned the importance of carrying inner tubes. After 40 kilometers, Matsuyama’s Dogo Onsen was a welcome sight. One of the
OUT & ABOUT
Bridge linking Shimanami Kaido
TOKYO SHIMANAMI KAIDO
Matsuyama Dōgo Onsen
oldest hot-spring baths in Japan and a oncefavored winter retreat of the imperial family and Japanese author Natsume Soseki, the springs are popular with tourists and locals alike. For different prices, you can enter separate parts of the onsen, including the area where their imperial highnesses used to bathe. Be sure to try the mikan orange ice cream along the shopping street near the onsen. The prefecture is well-known for its oranges and promotes them extensively. Also worth a visit is the craft beer restaurant just next to the onsen, which serves locally produced ales and beers. Refreshed, we cycled the final 10 kilometers to Matsuyama port, where we took a ferry to Hiroshima. Both ferries and high-speed hydrofoils run regularly between the two cities, and we opted for the slower ferry, which takes a leisurely two hours and stops off at the naval port of Kure.
As we weaved through the islets that dot this tranquil stretch of water, we were treated to a stunning sunset and breathtaking views in a fitting end to a rewarding experience. A day exploring Hiroshima was just what we needed to soothe our aching bodies. Using our bikes to cycle around the city at a leisurely pace, we visited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum and Atomic Bomb Dome. Before zipping up our bikes and boarding the bullet train for the return journey to Tokyo, we sampled Hiroshima’s famed version of okonomiyaki. Here, the savory pancake features noodles and masses of cabbage, with the ingredients layered rather than mixed. Okonomimura in downtown Hiroshima has many different restaurants to choose from and is the ideal spot to feast on this Hiroshima soul dish until you’re ready to pop. o
☛ Around four hours by bullet train from Shinagawa Station to Shin Onomichi Station.
☛ Onomichi U2 www.onomichi-u2.com ☛ Okonomimura www.okonomimura.jp
☛ Shimanami Kaido Tourist Information www.go-shimanami.jp ☛ Ehime Tourism Information http://iyokannet.jp ☛ Visit Hiroshima http://visithiroshima.net
Waters is a Tokyo-based freelance journalist.
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