Along the Ocean Road
Autumn is the ideal season to take to two wheels for some leisurely exploration of rural Japan. by Megan Waters
Onomichi port
T
he Nishiseto Expressway, commonly known as the Shimanami Kaido, is a “highway above the sea” that links Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture with Imabari on the island of Shikoku. Completed in 1999, the 70-kilometer stretch of road straddles six islets in the Seto Inland Sea by a series of suspension bridges. The island-to-island roadway includes the world’s longest skew arch bridge and incorporates pedestrian and cycling walkways, making it a popular cycling route for all abilities. A great two- or threeday getaway for intermediate cyclists or a longer trip for families, this often-forgotten corner of Japan provides some of the most spectacular scenery the country has to offer. We chose to extend the journey into a loop, taking in Matsuyama in Ehime Prefecture and finishing up in Hiroshima City. Departing Shinagawa Station by bullet train, we arrived at Shin Onomichi Station
32 October 2015 iNTOUCH
four hours later. We unpacked our bikes and cycled the 4 kilometers to Onomichi, the official start of the trek. At our destination, we found the Onomichi U2, a group of converted portside warehouses that houses a modern hotel, restaurant and café. A great example of urban regeneration, Onomichi U2 is the perfect spot to stay at the beginning or the end of your trip, and the stylish hub also includes a cycle store where you can rent bicycles, buy last-minute equipment or have small repairs done. The course from this point uses local roads and specially built cycle paths to follow the expressway. It’s well maintained and marked with a blue line. The route is reasonably flat and hugs the coastline, although the ramps leading up to the bridges include smallish inclines and can be a challenge at times, especially for beginners. The usual bridge toll fee has been waived for the time being to encourage tourists.
There are many opportunities to stop at idyllic beaches along the way to cool off in the sea during the summer months, as well as chances to sample the local produce from the many citrus farms that are ubiquitous in the area. After seven hours, we reached Imabari, home to a large cotton-processing industry, with an emphasis on towels, Japan’s largest ship builder and a castle. There are plenty of accommodation options, including campsites, along the way, but you’re advised to book in advance during school and public holidays. With sore legs, we set off for Matsuyama on open roads along the coast. Within an hour or two, almost every member of our party had acquired a puncture. Cycling through rural Japan, largely bereft of cycle stores, we soon learned the importance of carrying inner tubes. After 40 kilometers, Matsuyama’s Dogo Onsen was a welcome sight. One of the