The Men's Biz Mirror Issue # 1 by Men's Biz

BARBERING EXPLORING ONE OF THE MOST REVERED PROFESSIONS IN SOCIETY 18

FASHION

A STEP-BYSTEP GUIDE TO BUYING THE PERFECT SUIT 22

GROOMING WHAT SHOULD AN EFFECTIVE TRAVEL KIT CONTAIN? 26

FOOD & DRINK

THE PERFECT WHISKY SOUR + WHAT TO DRINK WITH PAELLA 16

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EDITION  1

MEN’S BIZ TURNS BACK THE CLOCK WITH SOME OLD STYLE 3D PRINTED STIMULATION

CONTENTS

ISSUE  1

Rule for Being a Gentleman

AS PART OF OUR INEXORABLE WAR AGAINST ALL THINGS LOWEST COMMON DENOMINATOR, HERE IS THIS ISSUE'S MEN’S BIZ RULE FOR BEING A GENTLEMAN

— A gentleman pays his fair share. The restaurant bill appears on a first date. Everyone else at the table has bought a round of drinks. You take your parents out for coffee. There arrive moments in life when you simply must reach cheerfully into your pocket, pull out some of the folding stuff, and pick up the tab. Paying your fair share in these situations is never up for negotiation.

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04 06 08 10 12 14 16 18 22 24 26 28 30

The Men's Biz Mirror —An Introduction Style & Grooming —The Job Interview

Choose Your Weapon

The Royal Arcade Product Reviews —By Mat Braddy

An Afternoon in Melbourne Drinks for the Season —By Alquimie

History of Barbers

Buying a Suit Famous Whiskers Through the Ages

Travel Grooming Kit Standards— Something Serious

Blackbeard the Pirate W W W. M E N S B I Z . C O M . A U

REFRESHINGLY

EFFECTIVE #

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Skincare Brand*

Only Jack Black has Technology for formulas that are fragrance-free, colorant-free, paraben-free and cruelty-free.

*Source: The NPD Group, Inc./Beauty Trends US Prestige Skincare Retail Dollar Sales, May 2014-June 2015

04 Introduction

In a world gone increasingly and often maddeningly virtual, Men’s Biz (ironically once exclusively an online retailer) turns back the clock with some old-school 3D printed material to get you stimulated and momentarily distracted from dripping taps and other petty annoyances. But before you dive straight in, just feel that paper, rub it against your skin, crease it, scribble on it, tear it even, just a little bit, ah the giddy joys of yesteryear.

Vinyl records, real-life shops where you get served by expert staff who know what they are talking about, the weight and clink of coinage, home brewed beer, quality hand made products that are not all slick and over-polished, imperfect looking but taste-filled fruit and veg sold by real life farmers who own their farms and get mud on their boots, bicycles, bespoke suits, old Simpsons episodes, free printed magazines…who knew the past had so very much to offer?

@MENSBIZ Follow us on Instagram for tips & inspiration

And what has the future delivered lately, miniaturised gadgetry and crowdfunding innovations aside? Mass produced disposable consumables with no discernible character or soul, crazy weather, cyber warfare, the virtual tracking of all our movements, suddenly inadequate radar systems, insidious new forms of advertising that creeps into our lives like a virus, antibiotic-resistant superbugs, dangerous new heights of narcissism, the ubiquitous celebrity … and the list unfortunately goes on. So surrender to the joyous recent past if you will, disable pesky electronic devices and check out The Men’s Biz Mirror, an inaugural foray into print media, an idea cooked up in one of those “why the hell not” moments that come along all too infrequently. So here is us throwing a pinch of caution into the face of the inevitable winds of change. Jackson Byrne Editor in Chief jackson@mensbiz.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS Men’s Biz Publisher Jackson Byrne Editor in Chief Nathan Jancauskas Grooming Editor Nicholas Cary Creative Direction ThoughtAssembly Design Erin Jancauskas Elisabeth Willis Matt Hastas James Morgan Photographers Printgraphics Printing Sumo Offset 120gsm Paper — BJ Ball

A solid morning’s shaving lather

press@mensbiz.com.au Contact Royal Arcade Shop Nº 49 335 Bourke Street Melbourne VIC 3000 Melbourne Store Strand Arcade Shop Nº 15, Ground Floor 412–414 George Street Sydney NSW 2000 Sydney Store

My grandfather’s shaving kit

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STANDING ROOM S TA N D I N G R O O M C O F F E E _ Royal Arcade

University of Melbourne

Shop 48 Royal Arcade 335 Bourke St, Melbourne Victoria 3000

G02A Union House T i n A l l ey, Pa r k v i l l e V i c t o r i a 3 01 0

@standingroomcoffee

06 T H E J O B iNT ER V i E w

Here at Men’s Biz we like to think that we can help you safely navigate the moments in your life when the value of your appearance is of paramount importance. Below we discuss the basics to hastening your upward trajectory by landing a better job.

Here are the five basic areas to pay attention to when preparing for your next interview:

Facial hair: The picture you want to paint upon entering the premises of your future employer is one of neat and tidy, organised and professional. Generally clean-shaven is your best bet, although if facial hair is your look, you better make sure it is trimmed and manicured like a royal shrub. The morning of the interview isn’t the ideal chance to try your hand at a straight razor for the first time—nor is it the time to start mixing up your routine—so stick to tried and tested products to avoid any adverse reactions. If you do nick yourself shaving, make sure you have an alum block on hand to seal any blood flow. Hair: Again, neat and tidy is the mantra. Keep hair trimmed and styled with some suitable product to avoid that, ‘sorry, just got out of bed’ look. Scent: You wouldn’t wear the same clothes to the pub on the weekend as you would to an important board meeting. The same goes with fragrance. Smells can evoke strong emotional reactions—and we recommend keeping work and play separate by having a different cologne for each purpose. Light citrus fragrances work well around the office. Save the smoky, seductive cologne for weekend hijinks. Apply lightly so as not to turn heads in a bad way. Hands and Nails: A firm handshake will get the interview started so make sure your hands aren’t rough and dry. A good quality hand moisturiser will do the trick. Clean fingernails are a must—you’d be surprised how many people pay attention to your hands—so clip and file any errant bits of dead nail.

SUGGESTED GROOMING KIT

1 Menaji: Camo Concealer 2 Geo. F. Trumper: Block of Alum 3 Penhaligon’s: Blenheim Bouquet Eau De Toilette Spray 4 Jack Black: Industrial Strength Hand Healer 5 Baxter of California: Alcohol Free Deodorant 6 Dovo Solingen: Klipette Nose Hair Trimmer 7 Marvis: Concentrated Strong Mint Mouthwash

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Attire: Your choice of attire should be matched to industry expectations. Obviously a suit and tie are not required for a job driving an excavator, but as a general rule you want to aim to be slightly better dressed than the person interviewing you. Be sure to lay your clothes out the night before to avoid early morning surprises—a missing button, a chocolate stain or a fraying thread. Shine your shoes if they are the glossy type—the person on the other side of the desk is hopefully going to take a sizable gamble on you, so try to look like an all round reliable commodity, head to toe. To top it off, a briefcase or leather satchel will help add some credibility to this narrative. Final Steps: Ensure that everything is in the right place; no stray nasal hairs or threads of fabric, run a lint roller over your shoulders, cover up any dark circles, bumps or blemishes with a camo pencil, have a quick gargle with some mouthwash, and then off you go, quietly confident that the position is yours for the taking.

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Monster Instinct The unmistakeable Monster design is truly iconic and means there is no limit to your enjoyment. The performance and fluidity of the new 1200cc second generation Testastretta 11째 DS engine, the versatility of the three Riding Modes, the comfort of the adjustable seat and passenger

handles make the Monster 1200 a bike that is capable of adapting to any occasion, so that you can follow your instincts in every situation. To experience the unmistakeable Monster 1200, visit your local Authorised Ducati Dealer and book a test ride today.

STRAIGHT/CUT-THROAT RAZOR What it is The straight razor is an impressive and slightly unnerving looking piece of hardware. It evokes images of Sweeney Todd and Reservoir Dogs. It consists of a handle and a long sharp cutting edge. It is the definition of low tech—you have stubble that needs to be cut—here is a sharp, exposed blade with which to do it.

What type of razor do you use? What does that choice say about you as a person? Read on for an unqualified amateur psychological assessment.

Why use it Using a straight razor is a statement. It says “I am willing to forgo the contrivances of modern technology to use a somewhat dangerous instrument because it is the best”. It’s a bit like driving an E-Type Jaguar, despite that fact that modern cars have more technology packed into a single door handle, because it is the greatest car ever made—simple, end of discussion. It requires skill and precision, but when used properly delivers the best shave possible. As it’s a single piece of steel that can be sharpened again and again, it should last you a lifetime, and you’ll never have to pay for replacement cartridges or blades again. Personality type The owner of a straight razor probably fixes his own car or motorbike. He is good with his hands and is never in a hurry—he likes to take his own sweet time. He is an obsessive collector of at least one thing, be it comics, stamps, fossils, butterfly larvae or something similarly obscure. He forgoes fads and trends to forge his own path, and is not concerned in the slightest with being seen as ‘cool’. He might very well roast and brew his own coffee, sleeps in very old flannelette pyjamas, and his favourite movie is either ‘Citizen Kane’ or ‘The Great Escape’.

CHOOSE

YOUR

WEAPON PHOTOGRAPHY

Erin Jancauskas

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DOUBLE EDGE RAZOR

CARTRIDGE RAZOR

What it is The invention of the safety razor is often credited to the Frenchman JeanJacques Perret, but they did not really gain popularity until King C. Gillette's double edge model with disposable blades hit the production lines in 1904. The Gillette version required no stropping or sharpening, and because it was easier to use than a straight razor, men began to shave themselves rather than entrust the job to their barber. The double edge razor consists of a thin, twoedged flexible blade which is held in place by a safety guard, which allows only a tiny portion of the sharp edge to protrude.

What it is The cartridge razor became wildly popular in the early 1970s when both Gillette and Schick launched massive advertising campaigns extolling the virtues of shaving with multi-bladed razor heads. The standard cartridge razor consists of a plastic handle that is generally sold very cheaply, and disposable razor heads, which are replaced as they wear out. The razor comes with a lubricating strip and pivoting head—both designed to make shaving as quick and easy as possible. Contrary to propagated wisdom, less may actually be more when it comes to the number of blades, and cartridges that contain five or six blades and vibrating handles don’t necessarily provide a superior shave to cartridges sporting only two or three blades.

Why use it Like a manual car, shaving with a double edge razor commands a bit more attention, but the user is in control. Blades are really cheap and users can feel satisfied that their morning ritual is creating less landfill waste than the cartridge razor user. Shaving with a double edge razor takes some skill and effort, but it shouldn’t be seen as dangerous or difficult. The process will generally take a bit longer than using a cartridge razor, but as it only has the one blade, a shave with a double edge razor generally results in less skin irritation and ingrown hairs than a multi-bladed cartridge variety.

Why use it The cartridge razor is quick, easy to use, and almost foolproof. If you don’t suffer from ingrown hairs or irritation, don’t mind forking out your hardearned for the replacement cartridges, and just want to shave with minimal fuss and effort, the cartridge razor would be your weapon of choice. Even if you are a staunch straight razor or double edge user, the cartridge razor may still have it’s uses, particularly when travelling, or when shaving time is limited.

Personality type The owner of the DE is a disciple of self-improvement, likes to be in control and likes to utilise “the right tool for the job”. He has a penchant for vintage items, will walk a few extra blocks for a good coffee in the morning, sleeps in clean white boxer shorts, recently sat through seven seasons of ‘Mad Men’ and re-watches ‘Goodfellas’ at every opportunity.

Personality type The cartridge razor man opts for the functional over the aesthetic. He is motivated by convenience, and drives an automatic car that might almost be able to steer itself to the nearest drive-thru. He is a man on the move, often in a hurry, drinks instant coffee, wears polyester pyjamas, and his favourite movie is invariably ‘Die Hard’, the original, starring the fiendish Alan Rickman.

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10 The site for the Men’s Biz Melbourne store is officially regarded as the oldest retail arcade in Australia.

THErOYALARCADE

Opened in May 1870, the arcade is famous today for its largely unchanged Renaissance Revival style, which has survived countless refurbishments virtually intact. It is home to a unique mix of speciality stores and Gaunt's Clock, a stately timepiece that stands above the Little Collins Street entrance. The clock is flanked by statues of mythic giants Gog and Magog, and sends its hourly chimes reverberating through the precinct. Over the years the arcade has been home to several houses of ill repute, and is thought to be haunted by a ghost, an old woman who sits hunched at a spinning wheel, working on the spirit world’s largest ball of thread.

ABOVE Gog

RIGHT Inside the Royal Arcade— 335 Bourke Street Melbourne

PHOTOGRAPHY

Erin Jancauskas

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Fascination in detail Platinum-plated writing implements with barrels made of matt black ebony segments, separated by gleaming platinized rings. Handmade in Germany. 18-carat gold nib ‘run in’ by hand.

AVAILABLE AT: TAFTS, 259 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE, VICTORIA, 3000

1 Proraso After Shave Lotion A customer perfectly described this as a slap in the face from the Godfather himself. Spot on. Classic barber shop scent and feels great.

Product Reviews with Mat Braddy —

2 Jack Black Face Buff Energizing Scrub Maybe my favourite grooming product. The menthol wakes me up and leaves my face feeling fresh and ready for a shave. The best face scrub I have used by a long shot. 3 Taylor of Old Bond Street Avocado Shaving Cream Bowl Easy to lather up, nice subtle scent and gives a great shave. My current bowl has lasted months. 4 P. Frapin & Cie Terre de Sarment Eau De Parfum Warm, spicy and citrusy. It smells good enough to drink. (DO NOT DRINK) 5 American Crew Power Cleanser Style Remover I use product in my hair every day and most shampoos just don’t get ALL of it out. This one does.

Mat Braddy is the Men’s Biz Inventory and Dispatch Manager. He ensures all of your orders arrive promptly and with unerring accuracy, including the free samples, just because he is a great guy. — Mat is a live music fan who rarely leaves the house without getting mistaken for tough-guy English actor Tom Hardy—see Mad Max. He gave up the carefree life of a self employed T-shirt printer to carry the weight of his current position. Mat certainly knows his way around our extensive product range. Here are his daily grooming items of choice.

6 Merkur Heavy Duty Double Edge Razor 34C My first and probably last safety razor. Built like a tank but incredibly easy to handle. I will never use a cartridge razor again. 7 Musgo Real Orange Amber Body Soap Luxurious lather and smells great, I have tried almost all of the Musgo Real Body Soaps and this is my favourite. 8 King Brown Original Pomade It’s long hold, not strong hold. I can easily re-style throughout the day without the need for water or more product. Smells excellent too. 9 LAB SERIES Skincare For Men Multi-Action Face Wash Great face wash, use it both morning and evening. 10 Penhaligon’s Sartorial Deodorant My favorite scent from the Penhaligon’s range. Lasts all day. 11 Marvis Cinnamon Mint Toothpaste It tastes awesome. Regular mint toothpaste seems boring in comparison. 12 Hunter Lab Face Fuel Moisturiser I get dry skin, especially in the colder months. Face Fuel is loaded with natural oils to feel and look healthy. Made here in Melbourne which is great!

PHOTOGRAPHY

Erin Jancauskas

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14 Melbourne is world famous for its hidden gems—cafes, restaurants, bars and retail spaces that are tucked down laneways, behind nondescript doors, up flights of stairs and generally located where only someone in-the-know would find them.

mELBOURNE A N A F T E R NOON IN

When you have an interstate or international visitor land on your doorstep, the challenge is to take them on a mini-tour that showcases at least a few of the many reasons why Melbourne is such a special and surprising city. We spoke to a few tour companies that specialise in taking travellers off the beaten track for some expert recommendations.

PRESENTED BY:

Hidden Secrets Tours www.hiddensecretstours.com Alternative Walking Tours www.alternativewalkingtours.com.au

Sarah King, from Hidden Secrets Tours, pointed us toward Captains of Industry1, located on Level 1, 2 Somerset Place, tucked down a laneway and up a rickety looking staircase. This unique warehouse space overlooking Elizabeth Street to the GPO building serves a killer 'Knuckle Sandwich' of pulled pork, ideally washed down with homemade ginger beer or, if the sun is setting, some great little boutique Melbourne brews. The building also contains a leather artisan who specialises in handmade shoes, belts and bags, and a jewellery designer, should you be in a shopping mood. With Melbourne’s reputation as a great coffee city, Sarah ventures to suggest that even the most ardent caffeine snob will be swayed by the offers presented at Patricia2. Once again you will need to venture down a laneway, Little William Street in this case, and search for the business, which is located behind an unmarked black building on the corner—the only tell-tale sign being the toing-and-froing of those in the know. Patricia has three different coffee roasters and passionately make four types of coffee—black, white (with milk), filtered and cold filtered. They are true world-class baristas, and one of Melbourne's greatest hidden coffee spots.

For a unique cultural experience Sarah Kwok from Alternative Walking Tours suggested venturing down the Degraves Street Subway under Flinders Street to check out the Sticky Institute3, an eclectic art gallery and not-for-profit retail shop. This mainstay of the local arts scene offers the chance to chat with artists and explore international zine culture. It is open Monday through Saturday, after 12 noon, the traditional artists’ rising hour. When the feet are getting heavy Sarah recommends heading to Whisky and Alement4 for a civilized and enlightening drink. The amber atmosphere provides the perfect hideout spot in the middle of the CBD with an unending list of options including rare whiskies and a secret batch in their rotating barrel from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Knowledgeable staff will guide you through the many, many options available, and you will leave the premises at least a little more informed about the esoteric world of grain derived beverages than you were upon arrival.

1. Captains of Industry → Level 1, 2 Somerset Place

3. Sticky Institute → Shop 10 Campbell Arcade, Degraves Subway

2. Patricia → Corner of Little Bourke & Little William Streets

4. Whisky and Alement (pictured above) → 270 Russell Street

Est. 2004 hiddensecretstours.com

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Join the handmade movement

WWW.THECLOAKROOM.COM.AU

16 DRINKS FOR THE SEASON As the chill of winter subsides for the new growth of spring, we fill your glass with equal parts comfort and refreshment. AUTHOR JOSHUA ELIAS, ALQUIMIE MAGAZINE

STOCK, RICE & FIRE

With bomba rice, saffron, rabbit and mussels we compile a paella traditional to Alicante in Valencia. We break the crust and charge a glass in search of the best match for this meal.

Pennyweight Winery ‘Constance Fino’ Victoria, NV Powelltown, Beechworth, 17 % abv — As a traditional beverage of Spain, pairing fino sherry with paella seemed like a natural progression. Tasting: Pennyweight Winery’s fortified wine is rich and textured and mirrors the savoury notes of its Spanish counterpart. After tasting the wine, the flavour of the paella persists and the yeasty notes of the sherry are amplified. Most impressively, the fino enhances the nuttiness of the rice. The umami qualities of the seafood stock build with the flavour of the wine. Incredible.

A MODERN INDEPENDENT PUBLICATION, ALQUIMIE SHARES THE CULTURE & STORIES BEHIND THE DRINKS WE LOVE. — ALQUIMIE.COM.AU BREATHING NEW LIFE INTO DRINKS PHOTOGRAPHY

James Morgan

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Kris Italy, 2012 Delle Venezie IGT Pinot Grigio, 12.5 % abv — There is an ocean of wine produced in the Veneto of Northeast Italy— most of it subpar. It is always a relief to find a clean and delicious wine from the region. Kris produce a crisp pinot grigio with flavours of citrus and a nuttiness that is typical of the best regional examples. Tasting: Tasted with the paella, the pinot grigio adds a citrus burst that helps to lift the density of the dish. Unexpectedly, the pinot grigio also brings out gamey notes in the rabbit. Though the wine is light in body, the texture of the paella helps to fill the mid-palate. It is a symbiotic relationship: they help each other.

Bodegas Enrique Mendoza ‘La Tremenda’ Spain, 2010 Alicante, Valencia Monastrell, 14.1 % abv — This wine pairing is based on history and tradition. Alicante is a wine region in Valencia that also happens to be the birthplace of paella. Tasting: The wine is medium-bodied; the fruit is ripe and bold with brooding earth notes, as well as some subtle herbal characters and smacks of plum. Paired with the paella, the roast capsicum notes came to the fore, as did the chariness of the crunchy rice at the bottom of the pan. Most surprisingly, the tannins of the wine didn’t clash with the seafood elements of the dish. There is accessibility to the pairing, which suggests that the wine should be enjoyed in tumblers, with friends.

SOMETHING CLEAR

SOMETHING AMBER

Sipsmith London Dry Gin Made in London, UK, 41.6% abv — Botanicals: Juniper, bitter orange peel, Spanish lemon peel, orris root and angelica, amongst others.

Moo Brew ‘Pale Ale’ Tasmania, AU 4.9% abv — Brewed through the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) in Tasmania, this beer is round on the mid-palate with lots of flavour and well textured.

This gin has a savoury character, aromas of garrigue, mountain herb and potting soil. The palate is evenly textured and has a seamless quality about it. Together with a pronounced juniper character, there is an earthiness on the mid-palate freshened by lemon juice flavours on the finish. Enjoy as a dry martini with a lemon twist.

A big, vibrant and fruity pale ale, this is a beer very much for wine drinkers.

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Recipe Andrew Miller

Venue Bar 1806 169 Exhibition St Melbourne

The Spirit 45ml Blanton’s Bourbon ‘Original Single Barrel’—spicy & endearing

The Mix 1 egg white 30 ml lemon juice 1 teaspoon of caster sugar Ice — Garnished with lemon zest

A SPIRIT TO SEE & SMELL

A PERFECT WHISKY SOUR

Suntory ‘Yamazaki’ Single Cask Single Malt Whisky, 54 % abv Distilled in 1998, bottled in 2013. From the Yamazaki distillery and representative of a single year (1998), the spirit was matured in a single sherry butt and bottled as a single cask whisky. A most remarkable colour to look at, this whisky is a deep mahogany. On the nose it is at first subdued but given a little time and aeration, it begins to uncoil. Starting with a vinous character, mulled wine spice is the first element to show. The second layer unfurls into the heady incense and roasted nuts commonly found in amontillado sherry. The palate is starkly savoury, a spread of African spices melded together: cumin, coriander, caraway and cardamom. Despite the endless complexity of flavour, the structure of the whisky is easy to gloss over because it is so smooth and effortless. Seemingly with great ease, the alcohol, texture and shape are all beautifully detailed and harmonious. The spirit is sweet and evaporative and the flavour lasts for a long time.

Subscribe today and be the first to receive new editions straight to your door as well as invitations to tastings and events! www.alquimie.com.au

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Barbering has historically been one of the most revered professions in society. AUTHOR JACKSON BYRNE

THE HISTORY OF T

his esteem dates back to Ancient Egyptian times when it was believed that evil spirits could enter a person's body through their hair. Regular haircuts were seen as vital in preventing demon possession, affording the haircutter religious and almost shaman-like status.

From the Middle Ages onwards, barbers came to perform a host of services, not only tending to the physical appearance but performing surgery, pulling teeth and other feats of dentistry, the time proven arts of leeching and bloodletting, fire cupping, enemas, the lancing of boils and cysts and even spinal manipulation. This impressive list of talents made barbers medical all-rounders that earned much higher rates of pay than standard surgeons, whose range of skills paled in comparison.

BARBERS

Ever since the invention of coloured advertising devices, barbers have publicised their services via the instantly recognisable barber pole. While legends to the origins of the tri-coloured pole abound, some explanations relate specifically to medical bloodletting, blue being the colour of veins, red representing the colour of the spilt fluid, and white the bandages subsequently applied, an explanation that seems to have at least some validity. The colours were split by act of English parliament in 1540 when the Fellowship of Surgeons legally merged with the Barbers' Company to form the Company of Barbers and Surgeons. The act specified that no surgeon could cut hair or shave another, and that no barber could practice surgery, the only common activity to be the extraction of teeth. The law required barbers to advertise their services via a blue and white pole, while surgeons were left with the colour red, a measure designed to prevent public confusion at the enforced changes. When barbers established in the new world, American patriotism dictated that all three colours again be utilised in their spinning glory. Whatever the truth, barber poles have survived as an enduring, almost universal symbol, the only distortion occurring in some Asian countries, where the barber pole often symbolises a brothel, a mistake a curious haircut-seeking-tourist only normally makes once.

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20 BARBERSHOPS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE

— Geo. F. Trumper’s (right) flagship barber store is located on Curzon Street in Mayfair London. Stepping into this mahogany panelled store featuring private cubicles is to experience classic English barbering at its very best. Services include haircuts, shaves and trims but also manicures, pedicures, facial cleanses and massages. Shop for Trumper’s world renowned grooming products while you wait, staff members famously being some of the most highly trained grooming experts in attendance anywhere. — Baxter Finley (above) is located at 515 North La Cienega Boulevard, Los Angeles and is the home of world leading grooming brand Baxter of California. The shop's luxurious yet simple interior is reminiscent of a more elegant era, with eight Koken vintage cast-ironand-leather barber chairs from the early 1900s, a vintage traincar-shaped chair for children's cuts, Persian rugs, exposed timber beams, and impressive woodand-glass displays for take-home products. — Schorem (below right) is an old school men-only barbershop located in the heart of Rotterdam, a working class city in the Netherlands. The shop does not accept bookings, with prospective customers queuing often for hours for their turn in the chair. When finally seated, expect to be greeted in all likelihood by a heavily bearded and tattooed barber who probably knows better than you what type of services are required, so just nod, smile and relax, you are in the hands of a true professional.

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As well as curing all manner of ills, barbershops have historically played the role of social forum, a place for men to gather and discuss the issues of the day, be it sporting contests, business wheeling and dealing through to all things political. They also offer a sanctuary, a legitimate reason to escape the demands and attentions of womenfolk for a few hours of carefree masculine company. Legendary gambler Arnold Rothstein would use his local barbershop to place large wagers with unsuspecting rubes, utilising an extensive network of tip-off agents who would alert the sure-thing punter to the colour of approaching motor vehicles, the results of horse races that had already been run and won, or whatever random event that likely sporting types might gamble on while having their locks tended. Entrepreneurial barbers could make a month’s salary by subtly providing Rothstein with such valuable information, often just by the way they held a pair of scissors, or a tapping movement with their free hand.

During recent history’s flirtation with all things metrosexual many men forwent the humble surrounds of the barbershop for the smooth polished surfaces of the hair salon. History’s pendulum has however recently swung with men again flocking back to the barber shop, a place where chaps can take a load off, let it all hang out, chew the fat and get a good old fashioned shave and snip. Drop into the Men’s Biz Royal Arcade store to sample the authentic barbershop experience for yourself.

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22 Choosing a suit can be an overwhelming ordeal. They come in endless shapes, sizes, colours, patterns, styles and fits, and of course there are fashions and prevailing trends to potentially consider. In the name of demystifying the process, please find our quick and easy guide to acquiring the right apparel investment for you. AUTHOR JACKSON BYRNE

WELL SUITED When decked out in your finest apparel you also want to smell your very best. Here are three classic fragrances to consider that work especially well in an office or formal environment.

BUYING A T

here are two types of suits that require a measuring tape; bespoke and made-to-measure. The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, an outdated term which roughly means ‘to give an order for it to be made’. A bespoke suit is made from scratch to the specific measurements of its owner. An entirely new pattern must be constructed, a timely and therefore expensive process. The term bespoke relates only to menswear, the closest female equivalent would be ‘haute couture’, although technically anyone can present at a men’s tailor, and Kate Blanchett looks far more dashing in a well-cut masculine suit than any man can possibly dream of. A made-to-measure suit on the other hand is made by combining an existing pattern with a customer’s unique dimensions. Adjustments to the pattern would generally need to be made, it is rare that any individual’s measurements would match exactly to a pre-made pattern, but this is a less onerous task that starting the construction process completely from scratch. Both madeto-measure and bespoke would usually involve a second and even third fitting to ensure the sizing is perfect. This is vital because the idea behind any measured suit is that the cut should be unlike anything you can possibly purchase pre-made. The fit should be absolutely perfect, and you should not accept anything less. The third type of suit is one bought pre-made or offthe-rack. Once again it is very rare that something already made would fit any body perfectly, unless you are lucky enough to be a standard size, so alterations are generally required to a garment bought in this manner. Alterations can be expensive and the additional cost must be considered when purchasing a pre-made suit. Buying off the rack will also present diminished options when it comes to customising your purchase, but if something fits well and meets your criteria, grab it.

Suits generally fit into three broad categories: Formal: A tuxedo, either black or a very dark blue in colour, worn with a white shirt and generally a bow tie and patent leather shoes. A tuxedo would normally only emerge from its resting place a few times a year, unless you are a doyen of the ballet/opera. Business: Normally a monotone colour and conservatively cut garment to be worn comfortably in the professional arena without raising too many eyebrows. A business suit fabric might have a light check or stripe, but is generally quite understated so as not appear too flashy. The garment is designed to demonstrate reliability and trustworthiness. Casual: Any suit that doesn’t fit into the above categories can probably be best described as casual. A more relaxed garment it can be worn to the races, an afternoon wedding or slightly dressy party. It can come in almost any pattern or shade, with bright red suits presently turning heads on the A list circuit. A casual suit allows the wearer greater scope to express his individuality. It can be mixed and matched, dressed down with jeans, and teamed with a variety of footwear. Those employed within creative fields can generally get away with wearing a casual suit to work, allowing them to avoid the standard blues and greys of the business suit. A casual suit jacket teamed with smart, dark blue denim jeans, a business shirt and dress shoes has become increasingly acceptable workplace attire, allowing the wearer to both present professionally while adding a signature twist to his outfit. The addition of a colourful pocket square is another means of crafting an individual look. Silicon Valley types would, for example, rarely be seen in a standard business suit and tie these days, opting almost universally for the jeans and jacket look, often teamed with casual white leather shoes to demonstrate age defying hipness.

— Left to right GFT by Geo. F. Trumper, L’Humaniste by P Frapin & Cie, Sartorial by Penhaligon's

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THE FIT 1. SHOULDERS A suit jacket should hug your shoulders. Jackets that are too wide don’t make you look broader, they make you look like you’ve raided your big brother’s wardrobe. Too narrow and you will look squeezed in, and are selling your stature short.

2. SLEEVES Your shirt sleeve should touch the line where your wrist meets your hand. Your jacket sleeve should then hang about 2 or 3cms shorter, allowing the shirt to peek out. An overly long jacket sleeve will leave its wearer looking slightly like a gorilla, while a short jacket sleeve just looks dire.

3. LAPEL There are no absolute rules when it comes to lapel width, although a narrow lapel (about 5cm) is generally preferable for a single breasted suit and a slim wearer, while a wider lapel can be accomodated on a larger frame and/or double breasted suit. Avoid going too wide, unless you are attending a Boogie Nights themed party in a 1970’s style safari suit— always a fun night.

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4. BUTTONS When it comes to buttoning up your three buttoned jacket, starting from the top, the rule is; sometimes, always, never. For a two buttoned jacket: always, never. Essentially the bottom button is always left open when higher options are available. You should also be able to slide your hand easily behind your jacket when the buttons are fastened. 5. WAIST A suit that’s made specifically for you will not require a belt. If you do need a belt, it generally should be matched to the colour of your shoes. A tightly worn belt will distort the overall shape of a suit and should be avoided whenever possible. 6. LEG Your trouser leg should sit about 1cm above the floor, at the back when you are standing barefoot. Pants that are too long will bunch and won’t sit correctly, while a length that is too short will look like the wearer has recently packed on some unwelcome girth.

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Elisabeth Willis

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FAMOUS WHISKERS T H RO U G H THE AGES 24

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Here at Men’s Biz we are rather fond of facial hair...

ABE LINCOLN

—Oppotsite page Elected the 16th President of the USA in 1860, Lincoln is considered the man who ended slavery in America. It took an extremely bloody civil war that cost over 750,000 lives, but slavery and the Sothern secessionist movement was eventually defeated, largely by the political manoeuvring and soaring rhetoric of the president, his Gettysburg Address considered one of the finest examples of political oratory ever delivered. He was assassinated in 1865 by John Wilkes Booth, a famous stage actor and Confederate sympathiser.

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While the clean-shaven look is not without its merits, and should probably be assumed for court appearances and when meeting future in-laws, nothing says untamed masculinity like letting the whiskers run free. And the hirsute look is not without its historical benefits. Would voters have warmed to the homespun wisdom of Abe Lincoln for example, had he not worn that one-of-a-kind beard? And could a smooth cheeked John Lennon have demanded the world “Give peace a chance” with the same authority? Or would Che Guevara have sold all those T-shirts without that wispy beard of pure nonchalance? Probably not. So here is our salute to some of history’s more renowned facial adornments.

JOHN LENNON

—Above left John Lennon co-founded the Beatles, arguably the most successful band of all time, boasting album sales in excess of 2.3 billion. He enjoyed a successful solo music career following the band’s demise, penning “Imagine”, one of the most played and covered songs ever recorded. He also became increasingly political, powerfully advocating for peace and against the US military industrial complex, a stance which led to the creation of an impressive 281-page FBI file on him. He was gunned down, aged 40, outside his hotel by crazed fan David Chapman, who mysteriously cited the novel ‘A Catcher in the Rye’ as his motive for his crime.

ERNEST HEMINGWAY

—Above middle Ernest Hemingway won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1954. He published seven novels, six collections of short stories, and two works of non-fiction. Married four times, Hemingway chased adventure like a drug, covering the Spanish Civil War as a journalist, and being present at the beach landings at Normandy and the liberation of Paris during WWII. In 1952 he survived death twice in separate plane crashes in Africa, famously loved to hunt and fish, drank and womanised with legendary enthusiasm, before committing suicide in 1961. He is best remembered for novels ‘For Whom the Bell Tolls’, ‘A Farewell to Arms’ and ‘The Old Man and the Sea’.

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CHE GUEVARA

—Above right Ernesto “Che” Guevara was a Marxist revolutionary, physician, literacy advocate, military theorist, author, diplomat, guerrilla leader and subject of ‘the most famous photograph ever taken’. He cured the sick, led men into battle (defeating the US sponsored Bay of Pigs invasion of Cuba), travelled the world spreading Marxist theories, wrote best selling memoirs, fought in numerous revolutions, before being executed by CIA backed forces in Bolivia. His early years are portrayed in “The Motorcycle Diaries” a film that features an unforgettable music score composed by Gustavo Santaolalla.

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Dopp Bag: Men’s Biz & Tailfeather Leather and Canvas Dopp Kit

TRAVEL GROOMING KIT

— What should an effective travel kit contain? Here are our picks and tips for a well-rounded travel kit for everyday and business travel.

A well made, durable dopp bag should last you a lifetime. Something in leather or heavy canvas will definitely go the journey.

Deodorant: Jack Black Pit Boss Deodorant, 78g Roll-on deodorants often leak in the reduced cabin pressure, so choose a solid stick or liquid spray.

Travel Tube: GoToob Travel Tube A fantastic little travel tube made from soft yet rugged silicone. They don’t leak and they’re easy to fill and clean. They will hold almost any product (for example, shampoo) and are a great way to save space and weight when travelling. Every travel kit should contain a few of these.

Lip Balm: Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip Balm SPF25: Lemon & Chamomile, 7g Ideal to combat the drying effects of continuous aeroplane air-conditioning.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Erin Jancauskas

Toothpaste: Marvis Classic Strong Mint Toothpaste, 75ml Toothbrush: Marvis Toothbrush

CARRY ON RULES INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

— Liquids, aerosols, gels, creams and pastes must be 100ml or less per container if you want to bring them in your carry-on luggage. Scissors must have blades shorter than 4 inches (10cm) and have blunt, rounded edges.

Fragrance: Acqua Di Parma Colonia Travel Spray with Leather Case, 30ml Manicure Kit: Dovo Solingen Milano Grooming Kit Avoid tools with sharp, pointy edges. We recommend nail clippers over nail scissors for travel, but if you elect to go with scissors, make sure the blades are shorter than 4 inches or they won’t be allowed on board.

Always have a clear, plastic, zip-top bag on hand to display your kit contents at screening checkpoints (guidelines state that everything should fit inside a single bag roughly 20cm×20cm). If in doubt, put the item in your checked baggage.

DOMESTIC FLIGHTS

— No liquid and gel volume restrictions, but keep any sharp or pointy items in checked luggage.

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Comb: Baxter of California Beard & Moustache Comb Choose something compact and sturdy.

Moisturiser: Clinique for Men M Protect SPF21 Lotion, 100ml A moisturiser containing SPF is handy as it can serve multiple uses as a moisturiser, after shave balm and light sun protection, saving you packing space.

Styling product: American Crew Fiber, 50g

TIP

If you travel often, then it’s a good idea to have a separate travel kit ready to go. This saves time, precious luggage space, last minute packing stress, and arriving at your destination to realise that you have forgotten essential items. Wandering the streets of Buenos Aires searching for a toothbrush is much less fun than it sounds. So set up a dedicated travel grooming kit and effortlessly take your grooming routine anywhere your roaming heart leads you.

Shave Cream Tube: Geo. F. Trumper Sandalwood Shave Cream Tube, 75g Don’t lug a great big jar of shave cream or can of aerosol around with you. Most of the best shave creams are also available in compact tubes under 100ml, which will be ample for a trip lasting less than a few weeks.

Travel Shave Brush: Dovo Solingen Silvertip Badger Travel Brush: Stainless Steel More compact than a regular shave brush. Includes storage case to protect the bristles when not in use.

Face Wash: men-u Healthy Facial Wash Buddy Tube, 15ml Choose something in a small bottle, or transfer your favourite product into a GoToob. This travel-size face wash from men-u is ultra-concentrated and delivers up to 30 washes from a single 15ml tube.

Specific Travel Size Kits: Triumph & Disaster ‘On The Road’ Travel Pack In a hurry or don’t like making decisions? We sell a number of pre-assembled, travel friendly kits that are ready to go.

Travel Razor: Merkur Solingen Travel Razor with Leather Case Compact, lightweight and designed for travel. Just remember to leave the blades in your checked luggage.

Shampoo/Body Wash Combo: Triumph & Disaster YLF All Purpose Body Wash, 30ml You may consider an all-in-one hair and body wash if space is tight or your trip short. Save further space and weight by transferring your favourite product into a GoToob as most shampoos, conditioners and body washes come in bottles over 100ml.

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28 Unfortunately life is not all bespoke suits, craft beer, premium grooming products and cute dogs with fluffy tails.

Lurking in too many Australian households hides a dark secret, a vicious cycle of domestic abuse. The perpetrators are predominantly men. Men who go about their normal everyday lives but commit these cowardly acts behind closed doors.

Let’s be clear, any man who ever uses violence or the threat of violence against a woman is a coward and a criminal. There can be no softening round the edges here. It’s about as black and white as an issue gets.

— THE MEN AT MEN'S BIZ

SERIOUS FACTS & FIGURES

— The Victorian Magistrates’ Court has seen an 83 per cent increase in family violence intervention order finalised applications since 2005 In 2014 Victoria Police recorded over 68,100 family violence incidents—around one incident every eight minutes In Victoria, male intimate partner violence is the leading contributor to death, disability and illness for women aged 15 to 44 years. (VicHealth 2004)

CONTACTS

— 1800RESPECT www.1800respect.org.au or phone 1800 737 732 Men’s Referral Service www.mrs.org.au or phone 1300 766 491

Even though the true depth of the problem is uncertain, domestic violence against women is estimated to affect more than one in three women and their children. And the statistics show that the problem is increasing rather than abating. So what can we do about it? If someone tells you they are engaged in violent or controlling behaviour towards a partner or family member, according to the Men’s Referral Service (MRS) you should treat their confession with the utmost seriousness and name the behaviour for what it is—abuse. Tell them it has to stop and encourage them to seek immediate assistance. Both 1800RESPECT and the Men’s Referral Service offer confidential and anonymous counselling services.

The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing. —Edmund Burke

If you suspect that someone you know is the perpetrator or victim of domestic violence, then you need to carefully consider how you can intervene safely. You need to ask yourself whether you will be able to have a positive influence on the perpetrator and what the implications might be for their partner if you talk to them about their behaviour. These are complex situations and every one is different. Both 1800RESPECT and the MRS will talk through the issues with you and help you to arrive at a course of action that minimises the risk to everyone involved. All of us can help to change the culture that creates an environment in which violence against women festers. When someone jokes about it, trivialises it, blames women for the violence they experience, or suggests that there are justifications and excuses for this type of behaviour— speak up. Raise the bar of behaviour—if you’re in a group, you’ll probably find that others support you, even though they may not have the courage to speak up first. According to Karen Willis, Executive Officer of Rape & Domestic Violence Services Australia that operates the counselling service 1800RESPECT, fathers play a particularly important role in changing the culture. “Ethical dads raise ethical sons. Through their own behaviour and their conversations, they educate their sons about the issues of gender respect, consent and equity that underpin a healthy society.” Be informed about the issue of domestic violence. Understand that it has its roots in the broader issue of gender inequity. Speak up against this appalling behaviour. Don’t be the one to turn a blind eye. Don’t be the good man who allows evil to prosper by doing nothing. It is incumbent on all of us to play a role in breaking this mad cycle. All. Of. Us.

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30 As part of our campaign to shine a light on historical figures absent from school textbooks… AUTHOR JACKSON BYRNE

BLACKBEARD THE

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arly Years Possibly born Edward Teach (variations of his surname abound) sometime around 1680, a young future Black Beard grew up in the port town of Bristol. It didn’t take long for the future buccaneer to answer the siren call of the sea. Teach enlisted in the navy as a teenager and saw maritime action during Queen Anne's War, the North American theatre of a war between England and France that simmered between 1702 and 1713. Records suggest Teach distinguished himself during several skirmishes without receiving any significant command. Soon bored of legitimate seafaring endeavours, Teach started his days of piracy under the tutelage of legendary picaroon Benjamin Hornigold, who saw promise in the youngster and rapidly promoted him to captain of his own ship. The two raiders shared many a successful heist until Hornigold hung up his pistols by accepting a royal pardon, a retirement option for old pirates when the years finally caught up with them. Setting out on his own, Teach quickly set about establishing the legend of Blackbeard, the literate, well-spoken, polite but fearsome master of the seas.

Dress Blackbeard soon learnt the importance of looking the part. Before possible battle he would clad himself in black, strap numerous pistols to his barrel chest and don a sweeping black captain’s hat. Then came the real effect. The villainous showman would affix slow burning fuses to his hair and flowing beard, become wreathed in smoke and resemble some hellish incarnation of pure terror. The creation of this fearsome image proved a tactical masterstroke and Blackbeard took many a ship without firing a single shot, meaning greater loot and fewer casualties. Generally, if a ship surrendered peacefully, Blackbeard would simply lighten their load of cargo, take aboard any volunteers and send them peacefully on their way, although English merchant ships were often treated with greater malice, as were ships from Boston, a despised city where pirates were often sent to the gallows. Vessel In late 1717, Blackbeard captured La Concorde, a huge French slaving vessel. He renamed the plundered vessel ‘Queen Anne’s Revenge’ and began modifying it for a new level of unseen piracy. He fitted 40 cannons to his new prize, rendering it one of the most impressive pirate ships ever sailed. Aboard this juggernaut he set about pirating the Atlantic and Caribbean with virtual impunity. Unfortunately this terror of the high seas saw only a year’s worth of action before being sunk, possibly at Blackbeard’s own command. The wreck of the Queen Anne’s Revenge was discovered in 1996 off the coast of North Carolina, yielding over 250,000 artifacts, including cannons of Swedish, English and French origin of all shapes and sizes.

ILLUSTRATION

Eugenia Raftopoulos

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NOT NOTED FOR HIS SUPERIOR GROOMING, IF BLACKBEARD WERE TO GRACE A MEN’S BIZ STORE THESE ARE THREE ITEMS WE WOULD INSIST UPON.

Dovo Solingen Beard & Moustache Grooming Kit — Why: Made from rugged stainless steel and housed in a leather travel case, this kit is designed to take whatever is thrown at it, up to and including a rough life on the high sea.

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Beardsley Ultra Beard Conditioner — Why: A great product to render even the most ragged of beards soft, smooth and stroke-friendly.

Bargain In 1718, sensing a change in the air, Blackbeard accepted a pardon from the governor of North Carolina, Charles Eden. He may have intended to leave his days of larceny behind, but his retirement was short lived. Before long, Blackbeard was back to his former ways as part of a bargain struck with the less than scrupulous Eden. The deal demanded pirated loot for ongoing sanctuary from law enforcement. This arrangement was mutually beneficial until the time of Blackbeard’s demise.

Captain Fawcett’s Booze & Baccy Beard Oil — Why: Containing notes of honeyed fresh tobacco leaves, frankincense, warm exotic vanilla bean, fresh hops and spice from the bay rum tree, a quick splash would have helped Black Beard melt more than the occasional heart during his buccaneering days.

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Death Blackbeard was never one to retreat from a fight. On 22 November 1718, when Teach was aged around forty, tragedy struck as two Royal Navy vessels sworn to his capture finally tracked him down. The timing was inopportune for our hero as most of his men were ashore and he was left exposed and undermanned, but he decided to fight nonetheless. He almost slipped the noose, but was finally brought down in fierce hand-to-hand combat on the deck of a boarded ship. When Blackbeard’s fire was finally extinguished, five bullet holes and over twenty sword wounds were found on his person. His head was cut off so as to collect the bounty that rested upon it, his body thrown into the water where, according to reliable witnesses, it swam three laps of the ship before surrendering to the waves, a fitting end to the wild life of history’s most fearsome pirate.

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ROYAL ARCADE SHOP Nº 49 335 BOURKE STREET MELBOURNE VIC 3000

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STRAND ARCADE SHOP Nº 15, GROUND FLOOR 412–414 GEORGE STREET SYDNEY NSW 2000

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