Dharshan Magazine

CHEF LIFE IN COLOMBO | MARCH 2017 | 4

PROUD TO BE AMONGST

DHARSHAN COOKS AMONGST

ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS

‘CULINARY GREATS’ IN BANGKOK

GAGGAN ANAND THE PROGRESSIVE INDIAN

COOL JAPAN A CITY WITH A THOUSAND HUES

CONTENTS MARCH 2017 | 4

Proud to Be Among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants

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Japan’s Soul in a Bowl

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Ministry of Crab Cooks in Taipei 10

Cool Japan 24 A City with a Thousand Hues

Dharshan Cooks Amongst ‘Culinary Greats’ in Bangkok

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Gaggan Anand The Progressive Indian

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A Prince Among Pizzas

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The Sri Lankan Crab The Culinary Star

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NIHONBASHI 11 Galle Face Terrace, Colombo 3 (+94 11) 232 3847

How to Eat Sushi...

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ALEXANDRA & WARD AND CAFE NIHONBASHI The Promenade – Odel 5 Alexandra Place, Colombo 7 (+94 11) 471 8758

The Saga of Kade Paan

What’s Cooking in Dharshan’s Kitchen

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The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or part in any form without the written consent of the publisher.

All material © Dharshan Munidasa and BT Options.

Design, Production and Advertising BT Options 536 R A De Mel Mawatha (Duplication Road), Colombo 3, Sri Lanka T (+94 11) 259 7991 | M (+94) 715 134 134 | F (+94 11) 259 7990 info@btoptions.com | btoptions.com

MINISTRY OF CRAB Old Dutch Hospital Bank of Ceylon Mawatha Colombo (+94 11) 234 2722, ministryofcrab.com

KAEMA SUTRA Independence Avenue, Colombo 7 (+94 11) 267 2362 kaemasutra.com

THE TUNA & THE CRAB Dutch Hospital Galle Fort (+94 91) 309 7497 thetunaandthecrab.com

We are humbled by the overwhelming demand for tables at Ministry of Crab.

For Lunch

11.30 A.M. To 1.30 P.M. 12.00 Noon To 2 P.M.

For Dinner 5.00 P.M. To 7.00 P.M. 6.00 P.M. To 8.00 P.M. 7.15 P.M. To 9.15 P.M.

1.45 P.M. To 3.30 P.M. 2.00 P.M. To 3.30 P.M.

8.30 P.M. To 10.30P.M. 9.30 P.M. Onwards

Please contact us at reservations@ministryofcrab.com as early as possible to avoid disappointment.

Open Daily

Lunch 11.30 A.M. to 3.30 P.M. | Dinner 5 P.M. to 11 P.M. Closed on Poya Days:

March 12th, April 10th, May 10th, May 11th, June 8th, July 8th, August 7th, September 5th, October 5th, November 3rd & December 3rd.

011 234 CRAB (2722) | www.ministryofcrab.com

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Dharshan Munidasa is the only restaurateur with two restaurants on the List

Proud to Be Among AsiA’s 50 Best RestAuRAnts!

DHARSHAN - Chef Life in CoLombo

F

ebruary 21 and 22, saw top chefs, restaurateurs, food writers and gourmands from across Asia flock to Bangkok for the unveiling of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant List 2017, sponsored by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna.

The festivities commenced with #50 Best Talks: Spice of Life, a workshop hosted at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Here a selection of Asia’s finest chefs from Thailand, India and Indonesia discussed the role of spice in their regional cuisine, followed by a live cooking demonstration by Chefs Manish Mehrotra (India), Bo Songvisava

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Dharshan receives the ‘Best Restaurant in Sri Lanka’ award

(Thailand) and May Chow (Hong Kong) showcasing native spices in some of their notable dishes.

The revelry continued into the night with the Chef’s Feast, a gala dinner served under the stars at the Sala Rim Naam Restaurant on the cool banks of the Chao Pharaya River. This dinner was purely for the participating chefs as well as their guests, and it was amazing to see the camaraderie that was present among them. One would think that there would be a little competition, rivalry even, however everyone was genuinely happy that the other had made it to the list.

The main event at the trendy W Hotel had an almost ‘Oscars’ type feel to it, with the Chefs, VIPs and Media walking the red carpet to the awards ceremony. The tension and excitement in the air was paramount, with those present anxiously awaiting the ranking for their restaurants.

The countdown from 50 to 1 was swift, while special awards were also presented for the Best Restaurant in each country, Best Pastry Chef, Best Female Chef, Highest Climber and the coveted Lifetime Achievement Award among others.

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MoC at Number 29, named Best Restaurant in Sri Lanka

Dharshan with the award

MinistRy of CRAB, whiCh hAs Been pARt of this list sinCe 2015, RAnked At nuMBeR 29 And wAs Also nAMed the Best RestAuRAnt in sRi lAnkA. plACed on the list foR A 5th ConseCutive tiMe, nihonBAshi, wAs nAMed 49th.

Nihonbashi makes the list at Number 49

DHARSHAN - Chef Life in CoLombo

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Asia’s 50 best restaurateurs

While restaurants from South East Asia featured heavily on the list (Thailand at #1 and Singapore at #2), India and Sri Lanka were the culinary representatives for the South Asian region, each with two restaurants on the list.

Ministry of Crab, which has been part of this list since 2015, ranked at Number 29 and was also named the Best Restaurant in Sri Lanka. Placed on the list for a 5th consecutive time, Nihonbashi, was named 49th on the 2017 list, cementing its position as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

This made Dharshan Munidasa the only chef with two restaurants featured on the list!

After the ceremony chefs, guests and sponsors gathered at the House on Sathorn, a stately colonial mansion built in 1889 now converted into a sophisticated restaurant and bar, to continue the celebration. It was indeed an after party fit for a Chef!

A feast of artisanal cheeses, freshly shucked oyster, fresh seafood, barbecue and a variety of signature cuisine from the different regions in Thailand were enjoyed by all. The champagne, conversation and laughter flowed well into the night, with the gala dinner resulting in strong bonds of friendship being formed between all the participants.

Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List was launched in 2013.

The List considers six voting regions; India and Subcontinent; South-East Asia – South; SouthEast Asia – North; Hong Kong, Taiwan & Macau; Mainland China & Korea and Japan. Organised

by William Reed Business Media the List is created by the Diners Club Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, which consists of over 300 experts from the restaurant industry across Asia; chefs & restaurateurs, food writers and well-travelled gourmets. They are selected for their expert opinion.

The results are decided through a comprehensive voting process.

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Ministry of Crab CooKs in

Taipei

The table set-up at the Ministry of Crab pop-up

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The Ministry of Crab team flew out to Taiwan last November for a pop-up at the Regent, Taipei. The 4-day event featured several signature MoC dishes such as Pepper Crab, Crab Curry and Garlic Chilli Prawn.

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s is generally the case with international pop-ups, the team hand-carried several key ingredients such as curry powder, pepper and even salt so that they could replicate the recipes 3000 miles away from home. While lagoon crabs were sourced from the Philippines since they were the same species as those found in Sri Lankan lagoons, gigantic king prawns were exported to the Regent from Sri Lanka prior to the event. This ensured that authentic flavours were brought to the table.

Garlic Chilli Crab

“WHILE LAGOON CRABS WERE SOURCED FROM

THE PHILIPPINES, GIGANTIC KING PRAWNS WERE

EXPORTED TO THE REGENT FROM SRI LANKA PRIOR TO THE EVENT.”

The king prawns were brought in from Sri Lanka

Garlic chilli prawn

12 The Regent, Taipei has played host to a line-up of remarkable guest chefs, including Michelin starred ones. Christian Lohse, Ivan Vautier, Thierry Marx, Marc Haeberlin and Jungsik Yim are a few of them, along with other world renowned Asian chefs Andre Chiang, Seiji Yamamoto and Alvin Leung. Therefore, it was an honour for Ministry of Crab to follow in their footsteps and cook in these hallowed kitchens.

“Cooking in Taipei was an amazing experience as none of us had ever been there before”, recollected Dharshan, speaking on behalf of the team. “We were assisted by so many from the hotel”.

This joint effort led to the success of the event as it was the most number of days that the MoC team had consecutively plated up both lunch and dinner services in an international kitchen.

“We couldn’t have done it without Chef Bernard Noel (Executive Western Chef) and the boys in the kitchen, who assisted us in plating over 400 crabs in 4- days”.

He recalled both teams working together to guarantee that the carefully curated menu was delivered to the 200+ guests across all 7 of the Regent’s à la carte restaurants.

While trying their best to maintain the consistency of the Ministry of Crab experience with the table settings and plating, Patisserie Chef Tseng’s ability to replicate the signature Kade Paan with an almost equal rustic loaf was definitely a welcome surprise!

Dharshan was more than happy to share his knowledge with the Regent Taipei team, as a token of thanks. He gave the kitchen staff a masterclass on the art of cleaning and cooking crab to best bring out their natural flavour.

Dharshan in action

WHILE THE LIVE DEMO OF CURRY CRAB DELIGHTED EVERYONE IN THE ROOM, IT ALSO LED TO THE QUESTION “WHEN IS MINISTRY OF CRAB OPENING IN CHINA?”

MEETING THE PRESS

A press event that comprised over 50 members of the Taiwanese gamut of print, broadcast and online media was held on the morning of the first day.

Among them were prominent food reporters Sam Yao of the Commercial Times and Kaas Chan of the China Times.

The crabs were the stars of the event, with the now famous Pepper Crab and Garlic Chilli Crab dishes displayed to the media. The many questions posed by the media were answered by Dharshan. While the live demo of Curry Crab delighted everyone in the room, it also led to the question “When is Ministry of Crab opening in China?”

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a triP to taiWan

WitHoUt saMPLinG LoCaL DELiCaCiEs

WoULD HaVE bEEn a

WastED oPPortUnity...

nEXt Was a triP to tHE taiPEi fisH MarKEt.

a tastE of taiPEi

Shanghai Hairy Crab (Chinese Mitten Crab) at the Taipei Fish Market

Dharshan speaking to the media

A trip to Taiwan without sampling local delicacies would have been a wasted opportunity, and to that extent the F&B team at the Regent didn’t disappoint. The first day involved an official welcome dinner featuring a fine selection of the best Taiwanese cuisine at the hotel.

Next was a trip to the Taipei Fish Market, which was bustling with energy and full of great fish, clams and even frog legs! It was here that the Shanghai Hairy Crab (Chinese Mitten Crab), a Taiwanese autumn delicacy, caught Dharshan’s eye.

He didn’t hesitate to take it back to the hotel to be steamed, as that is the method of traditional preparation.

Finally, there was the visit to the Ningxia Night Market in the Datong District, where the ‘Offal’ (as the West would say) on offer was like heaven to Dharshan.

“I had the best time tasting delicacies from oyster omelettes to deeply flavourful pork bone broth”, he added with a smile.

The final verdict from all team members is that the four days they spent in Taiwan were truly an experience like no other, thanks to the hospitality and support of the amazing team at the Regent.

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Dharshan cooks amongst

‘Culinary Greats’ in Bangkok

Dharshan briefs the team at Lord Jim’s restaurant before the dinner

The treasured Crabzillas of Sri Lanka adorned the tables at Lord Jim’s, as Dharshan showcased the best of the Island’s seafood and culinary heritage to the world.

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he best chefs from across the Asian region flocked to Bangkok for the gala awards ceremony of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Considered the Oscars of the culinary world, this season proved to be the best time for prestigious online gourmet magazine, the Fine Dining Lovers (sponsored by San Pellegrino) to organise the ‘Culinary Greats Guest Chef Series’. It was held at the Le Normandie and Lord Jim’s restaurants of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.

the greats

At the 6-day event, which took place from February 18 – 23, 8 of Asia’s leading culinary artisans, showcased their skills.

The Chefs, Umberto Bombana (8 ½ Otto e Mezo Bombana, Hong Kong), Julien Royer (Odette, Singapore), Arnaud Dunand Sauthier (Le Normandie, Bangkok) and Luca Fantin (Il Ristorante, Tokyo) served their fare at the Le Normandie restaurant. Other culinary greats included Mingoo Kang (Mingles, Seoul), Ryan Clift (Tippling Club, Singapore) and Richard Ekkebus (Amber, Hong Kong). Dharshan Munidasa took charge of the finale dinner at Lord Jim’s on February 23.

A table at Lord Jim’s all set for the finale dinner

the ‘culinary greats guest chef series’

was helD at le normanDie anD lorD Jim’s

restaurants of the manDarin oriental hotel.

Dharshan ready for action at Lord Jim’s

16 Dharshan muniDasa took charge of the finale Dinner at lorD Jim’s restaurant on feBruary 23.

MoC’s signature Pepper Crab

a mighty lagoon craB finale Set amidst panoramic views of the Chao Phraya River, the renowned Lord Jim’s restaurant was inspired by the seafaring hero created by novelist Joseph Conrad. Serving seafood that is the best of its kind in the city, Lord Jim’s promises an unforgettable gourmet experience.

Thus, it was truly poetic that Dharshan Munidasa’s restaurant pop-up took place here, serving up some of Nihonbashi and Ministry of Crabs’ signature seafood dishes!

The best was saved for last, as the final day of the Guest Chef Series, Thursday February 23, opened its doors to Dharshan’s overwhelmingly majestic lagoon crabs. These crustaceans made their way onto tables along with delectable freshwater King prawns specially flown in from Sri Lanka. Accompanied by kitchen assistants from both Nihonbashi and MoC, Dharshan plated up a 6-course seafood menu that wowed diners.

Starters featured the Prawn Bisque, a soup that combined Sri Lankan spices with flavourful prawns. Next was served two of Nihonbashi’s most admired dishes, with the Olive Oil Kake Tai Cha being served first. This unique dish intricately laid slices of Tai sashimi over rice, which was then eaten after pouring an olive oil mixture and glazing an egg yolk.

The Otoro Sumibiyaki is a simple yet decadent dish as nobody would ever cook fatty tuna on a hardwood

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Olive Oil Kake Tai Cha

These crusTaceans made Their way

onTo Tables along wiTh delecTable freshwaTer King prawns specially

The Garlic Chili Freshwater Prawn

Baked Crab

charcoal. Nihonbashi often serves seafood, as well as foie gras, off their charcoal grills – and that is the inspiration for creating this dish.

Next were favourites from the MoC menu; the Baked Crab, Garlic Chilli Freshwater Prawn and Pepper Crab, which appealed to both Continental and Asian taste buds. The dinner at Lord Jim’s was wrapped up with a Coconut Panna Cotta made to creamy perfection; a fitting finale to the dining experience.

flown in from sri lanKa.

Dharshan with Executive Chef Aurelien Poirot (left) and Executive Sous Chef Raymond Rjaily (right)

Dharshan with the staff of Lord Jim’s restaurant

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Among Pizzas A Prince

Ranked number 2 in the World’s Best 50 Food, the classic Pizza Napoletana is fast winning the hearts of gourmets at Alexandra & Ward Fashion CafÊ.

Text Yomal Senerath-Yapa | Photographs Menaka Aravinda

DHARSHAN - Chef Life in CoLombo

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hen Alexandra & Ward Café opened in December 2016, the greatest cheers were from a group of nostalgics who had not forgotten the Neapolitan pizza baked by Nishan and Thilini Punzi at ORO 1889. Nishan himself was overjoyed to revive ORO 1889 at

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Naples: the birthplace of Prince Pizza

Alexandra & Ward. It has given him the opportunity to be back among the warm fumes evoking Naples, while baking pizza in the wood-fired, hand-built oven made specially for him.

‘1889’ commemorates the year modern pizza was born in Naples.

That archetypal ‘mother-pizza’

still holds its own. Though today her many ‘progeny’ have taken the form of fast-food, and have outdone her in popularity, pizza Napoletana is still the most valued and treasured form of pizza.

Nishan calls this gourmet treat ‘slow food’: the dough, made of Caputo flour from Naples, takes

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The special Caputo flour dough taking shape

The pizza can be sliced if you so desire

Adding olive oil to the pizza

24 to 48 hours to rise. Incredibly, however, baking takes only 90 seconds. Because of the prodigious rising period, the pizza is extremely light to eat.

Another reason for the lightness is that Nishan uses only the best ingredients, most of them, including the tomatoes, flown in from Naples. It is this passion for authentic flavours that drew the owners of ORO 1889 and Dharshan Munidasa together.

The Neapolitan pizza is pretty to behold. The flaming red of tomatoes is speckled

Nishan and Thilini Punzi

with mozzarella and the bright green basil seem to swim on the surface. This beautiful pizza was nonetheless not at once appreciated by Sri Lankan diners.

Nishan says there was “a teaching process”. Hot off the oven, the uniqueness of the Neapolitan pizza is that the cheese is wet and the middle is ‘soupy’ and moist. Once diners came to terms with this, however, they were very easily conquered. Now at Alexandra & Ward, regular diners come in at least once a week.

Basic pizzas at ORO 1889 are

vegetarian, but the San Gennaro has crushed anchovies while the Ciro has smoked pancetta bacon. The oven, of which Nishan is tremendously proud, could be as hot as 485 – 500 degrees, yet when you press your palm against the outside, you will not have an inkling of the inferno inside.

Nishan has now put the rather special oven, ‘The Don’, into more use, expanding their lovingly curated menu with some new Italian favourites, thus reaching out to more palates and creating more aficionados of Naples cooking.

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Japan’s soul

in a Bowl

Partaking of a bowl of ramen at CafĂŠ Nihonbashi is to touch base with the Japanese spirit.

Text Yomal Senerath-Yapa | Photographs Menaka Aravinda

DHARSHAN - Chef Life in CoLombo

Noodles being boiled

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t Café Nihonbashi, at the Odel Promenade, one of Dharshan’s latest creations was being prepared: a hot bowlful of Tori Kotsu Ramen, the chicken version of the pork, Ton Kotsu Ramen. This is a labour of love, made up of 3 elements; a soup base, a soup broth and noodles.

At the bottom of the bowl of the Tori Kotsu Ramen is the base or the soup stock. Each restaurant jealously guards its own recipe for this base and Café Nihonbashi has its own authentic recipe crafted by

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The experience is lost if you don’t have the ramen soon after it is served

Dharshan, which uses dried prawn and kombu. First the noodles are boiled. The duration for boiling can vary according to the thickness of the variety, says Dharshan. It is all timed, with precision, using little medal-like timers, and may take between 44 seconds to 1 minute.

While the noodles are boiled, the soup should be added to the bowl with the base. Then the soup broth is cooked in a vat with chicken bones churning, creating a creamy, rich white surface. After the soup has been ladled, the long noodles,

boiled and steaming, is added to the creamy and flavoursome broth.

Toppings are just as serious as the content. The bowl is dressed with the salty scallion, nori, chicken and an egg. The concoction must be eaten as quickly as possible.

Otherwise, the heat of the soup will overboil the noodles and the chewiness of the noodles, the best half of the experience, will evade you.

At the end, tilt the bowl and noisily slurp South Asia’s only Chicken Ramen.

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Cool Japan

A City with a Thousand Hues Sakura trees echo a sense of calm as they sway with their rosy bounty. Translucent petals float down to the ground, almost like snow. In the warmth of spring, Kyoto, Japan’s historic capital, is pretty in pink.

Text Keshini de Silva

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here are many reasons to visit the Land of the Rising Sun. Japan resonates history and mythos, and her destinations embrace a different identity at different times of the year. She is also a melting pot of flavour, the birthplace of a cuisine that is loved

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Dainty Sakura or the cherry blossom in bloom

across the globe. Yet, one could argue that the best time to visit Japan is when the Sakura (Cherry Blossom) is in bloom.

One of the more popular places to witness this spectacle is Kyoto, Japan’s most beautiful city. As spring warms up the landscape

towards the end of March and beginning of April, the Sakura Bloom Frontline passes through Kyoto. The blushing ‘ThousandYear Capital’ is then the picture of serenity and calm. Streets are showered with Sakura petals that are carried down by the wind.

26 As spring wArms up the lAndscApe towArds the end of mArch And beginning of April, the sAkurA bloom frontline pAsses through kyoto.

The Japanese celebrate this seasonal spectacle with Hanami, the viewing of Sakura. They either picnic under these pastel shaded trees or walk on cherry blossom fringed paths. This soothing pink beauty is to them a reminder of the philosophy of impermanence and an empathy towards things.

As darkness falls the trees are lit up and the entire city glows in enchanting hues of pink. This nighttime manifestation is best witnessed at the Maruyama Park.

While nature embraces these pacifying shades, the fragrance and colour of Sakura blooms flow through Kyoto cuisine too. The capital of Japan for at least 1200 years, Kyoto is considered the kitchen of the Imperial Court or birthplace of traditional Japanese fare. The Sakura influence is clear on plates brimming with the hues of the bloom, especially Wagashi or sweets. Traditional Japanese Mochi transform into Sakuramochi, a sweet rice cake wrapped in a pickled cherry blossom leaf. And as you dine in the cosy cafes or elegant restaurants, a sprig of Sakura will be placed on your table.

The Philosopher’s Path in Kyoto is a magical experience. Waterfront walking tracks lead you between the Ginkaku-ji Temple and Wakaojijinja Shrine under the shade of flushed Sakura trees. Their dainty petals float on the waters of the Lake Biwa-ko.

Walk in the shade of Sakura Blossoms

Weeping Sakura trees

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the kinkAku-ji or rokuon-ji Zen temple is Another must visit site in kyoto. the temple is An impressive golden structure with A bAckdrop of serene green mounts And thick foliAge.

Red hues of Strawberry Season

The Kinkaku-ji temple

The historic Ryōan-ji or Temple of the Dragon is home to one of Japan’s most iconic rock gardens.

Weeping sakura trees and classic architecture together symbolise the aesthetics of Zen. The Kinkaku-ji or Rokuon-ji Zen Temple is another must visit site in Kyoto. The temple is an impressive golden structure with a backdrop of serene green mounts and thick foliage. This picturesque scene is mirrored on the waters of the pond.

Experience this ethereal beauty by strolling in the surrounding garden.

Not many experiences could compare to the overwhelming sense of tranquility that rushes through as you stand amidst the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. It is quite unlike any other forest experience. The various ryokans and onsens (hot springs) of Kyoto are also quite famous. These waters sourced from the depths of the earth are said to relieve stress and alleviate muscle pain.

Kyoto resonates an unruffled sensation immersed in mystery, history and beauty. Its identity changes according to the season; in Autumn it blazes in shades of crimson, orange and yellow while in winter it is sprinkled with white.

Yet, what do you take back from a visit to Kyoto in Spring?

“Enchanting sights, the warm feeling of spring and the tastes of the best food in the world”, says Dharshan Munidasa.

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GagganTheAnand Progressive indian

Dharshan speaks about his experience of tasting progressive Indian cuisine and his friendship with the chef behind the Number 1 restaurant in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant list, Gaggan Anand.

Tandoori lamb, with a beetroot and shakarkandi rangoli

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orn in Kolkota, India, but having made his home in Thailand, Gaggan is a fellow chef who identifies with many cultures. His work in the research lab at elBulli with Ferran Adrià served as the inspiration for his progressive Indian restaurant ‘Gaggan’, in Bangkok. Creating molecular Indian cuisine led to him being recognised at Number 1

by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2015 and 2016, as well as being the only Indian restaurant on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant List.

Coincidentally, it was Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List that formed the beginning of my friendship with Gaggan. We met in 2012 at

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the inaugural awards ceremony in Singapore, introduced by a mutual wine friend and renowned influencer of the wine world Sanjay Menon. Our friendship solidified when I realised this was the first time that I had met someone so determined, passionate and headstrong in the restaurant industry in South Asia. It was refreshing to see someone who believed enough in his art and passion to deliver something the world had not seen before.

Not being a fan of Indian cuisine, having experienced it to be too rich, too heavy and too oily, I must mention that I had my doubts when visiting Gaggan’s restaurant for

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the first time with my daughter.

This is one time I was happy to have been proven wrong! He plated up such a different translation of Indian cuisine. It was a truly unique and a sensational experience.

In fact, one of my fondest memories with Gaggan involved Indian food. After the Chef’s lunch at the 2nd Asia’s 50 Best Event in 2013, Gaggan and I, along with legendary Indian Chefs Manish Mehrotra and Manjit Gill found ourselves at a vegetarian Indian chain restaurant. It was probably the first and last time any of us would step into such a restaurant, yet the bond of brotherhood forged during that meal was unforgettable.

The Red Matcha tea ceremony at Gaggan

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Akami Wrap, an example of Gaggan’s unique plating skills

Chefs like gaggan are noT Confined by The ParameTers of TradiTional Cooking meThods, PhilosoPhies and sTyles... he has CreaTed an inTermarriage of CulTures in his Cuisine.

An inspiring dish by Gaggan

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Gaggan strikes a balance between Indian cuisine and molecular gastronomy

Gaggan’s culinary skills are out of this world! Like me, he is also inspired by Japanese ingredients and it is astonishing to see how he transforms certain fish, that were familiar to me in my Japanese kitchens, into progressive Indian cuisine. Chefs like Gaggan are not confined by the parameters of traditional cooking methods, philosophies and styles. He has pushed the boundaries so far, that he has created an intermarriage of cultures in his cuisine; something I too identify with, as I am of dual cultures. It takes a great deal of skill to not only be able to jump from one culture to another, but also to be able to interpret one culture from the angle of another.

Gaggan has done this extremely well and it is evident in his cuisine, which is rich, colourful, beautiful and amazing to taste!

Best of Luck Gaggan! There are many more milestones to come.

Dharshan

Dharshan and Gaggan at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards ceremony

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THE SRI LANKAN CRAb

Dharshan poses with his catch of the day

The Culinary Star The mud-to-magnificence story of Scylla serrata, the coveted mangrove crab of Sri Lanka.

Words Yomal Senerath-Yapa Photographs Menaka Aravinda and Vishwathan Tharmakulasingham

The brackish waters of the Negombo lagoon is a natural home for the mud crab

“A good-sized specimen!�

DHARSHAN - Chef Life in CoLombo

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he Negombo lagoon stretched before us in 3 horizontal stripes: a bar of green made up by the thick mangroves, sandwiched between the broader bands of blue sky and shimmering water. This lagoon is home to Sri Lanka’s culinary black pearl: the mud crab. It has scuttled its way to become the country’s latest international mascot; an exotic symbol of high quality.

We embarked on these waters with Dharshan, with the intent of gathering a crustacean harvest.

A good number of fishing traps are laid each day in this lagoon by fishermen. These traps, called ‘Thettiyas’, are circular, made of nylon net, and baited with a little silver fish. The more the fish rots, the more the crab finds it irresistible. Once you have got this carrion gourmand entangled in your net, it has to be handled very carefully. Dharshan has to do fancy finger work to evade the angry pincers, which click incessantly at the air with murderous intent.

Though it doesn’t come in the proverbial (and appetising) red or orange, the Sri Lankan mud crab

Handling the crab is an art to be mastered

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(also known as the lagoon crab or the mangrove crab) is often called “the fleshiest and most delicious” of all crabs. The other wonderful thing about this crustacean is that it can be savoured any time of the year. When it is off-season on one coast of the country, you can fish it on the other coast.

Gone, however, are the days when Sri Lankans could enjoy at whim this delicacy, which was swimming close to their backyards. About two decades ago lagoon crab was discovered by international gourmets. Prices this crab fetch today are such that all the good specimens get sent abroad. But you cannot judge a meaty crab from the type of the waters in which it is found; nor can you determine its goodness from how long it was dead before being cooked. While some crabs can be packed with meat, others may have none at all. This kind of variation is only natural.

The hardest thing to find in a local fish market today would be a mud crab. If you do come across a handsome specimen with claws equally proportioned and robust

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in the local market, it is ten to one that it would be a water crab. After cooking it, you can only pick about and wonder where all the meat vanished into.

“If you really want to eat good crab in Sri Lanka,” says Dharshan, “you’ll have to pay more than Singapore does.”

For Singapore is where most of our mud crab goes to. It was where the mania for our crustacean began, and where the phrase ‘Sri Lankan mud crab’ is so magicked, diners are drawn to establishments advertising it like bees to honey. The star dish of the Singaporean seafood venues, the Chili Crab, is best loved when cooked with our mud crab.

Though the name has its magic allure, the price can be disenchanting for the restaurateur, so other, commoner crab varieties are supplanted. So keep a keen lookout and make sure you get the original mud crab.

Dharshan, concerned for the future of this delicacy, believes the government should protect the mud crab with branding and legislation.

Dharshan appraises the crustacean

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Sushi…

How to Eat

From a mere method of preserving fish to becoming one of the world’s most popular food; sushi has evolved into an icon of Japanese cuisine. Elevate your sushi experience by learning how to eat it right!

Text Keshini de Silva Photographs Menaka Aravinda

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No 1

Do not mix the wasabi in your soy sauce. This wasabi-soy sauce bath will make all the varieties of sushi you have ordered taste the same.

While the correct amount of wasabi is usually added when the sushi is being prepared some sushi dishes are not served with wasabi.

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No 2

Eat the piece of sushi in one go. Breaking it up is considered an affront on the chef who has created this flavoursome masterpiece with great care.

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No 3

Ginger (gari) is not eaten with the fish. As gari is a palate cleanser it is consumed in-between courses, allowing sushi lovers to taste all the unique flavours in each bite.

romatic and succulent preparations with a generous potion of sticky rice; there are many varieties of sushi. Each distinctive and delicious.

Sushi is derived from the word “Sumeshi”, which means vinegared rice.

It is a combination of vinegar (Su) and rice (Meshi). It’s origins date back to a time when salted fish was stored in fermented rice. While initially the rice was thrown away, once vinegared rice was invented the fish was eaten with the rice.

Thus sushi evolved over time to become a coveted dish across the globe.

Yet how do you correctly consume these colourful nibbles and enjoy its flavours?

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Nigiri

this is a type of sushi with thin slices of fish placed over pressed rice.

Just pick up the nigiri with your fingers and turn it upside down. Then dip the fish (and not the rice) in the soy sauce. Pop it in your mouth and eat it in one go.

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Maki

Maki sushi is vinegared rice and a seafood or vegetable filling rolled in seaweed (Nori).

Beacuse of the nori it is easier to hold the maki sushi. Hold it from the seaweed, (if you must) let it take a quick plunge in the soy sauce and enjoy. The inside out contemporary maki might be a little tougher to hold, but the technique still applies. Try to avoid soaking the rice in soy sauce.

Sashimi

Sashimi is sliced raw meats or fish. In addition to seafood, sashimi also includes beef (Gyusashi), chicken (Torisashi) and even horse meat (Basashi).

Sashimi dishes are served with wasabi and ginger.

With your chopsticks place a tiny piece of wasabi on the slice of Sashimi. Make a quick dip in the soy sauce. Some fish such as Aji or Trevally are better without wasabi. Certain sashimi dishes are served with grated ginger on the side. This is why it’s important to avoid mixing the wasabi in soy sauce.

It is perfectly acceptable to eat sushi with your hands, after all that’s how it was originally eaten in Japan.

You are now well-equipped with the sushi dos and don’ts. So keep calm and sushi on…

To reserve your place at 24, Staple Street, Colombo 2 Hotline: +94 770 788 788 Dishni: +94 778 693 787 Thakshi: +94 718 524 840 Thivan: +94 777 406 266 Capitol Developers Ltd. 10, Albert Crescent, Colombo 7 Web: www.capitoltwinpeaks.com

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The Saga of

Kade Paan The crusty hunks of bread you relish at Kaema Sutra and Ministry of Crab have their home in a bustling street in Pettah.

Text Yomal Senerath-Yapa Photographs Menaka Aravinda, Vishwathan Tharmakulasingham and Geeth Viduranga

The neat loaves of golden brown bread cooling in trays

DHARSHAN - Chef Life in CoLombo

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ettah is probably the liveliest of all Colombo’s wards. Here, statuesque Dutch churches of the 18th century co-exist alongside vibrant Islamic mosques and Hindu kovils. The ground not claimed by old colonial architecture, every inch of it, seems to have been taken over by colourful commerce: the open air bazaars with pungent colours, smells and noises and the bustling humanity make this melting pot such an exciting place, noon or midnight.

Kaema Sutra and Ministry of Crab believe in authenticity, so their Kade Paan needs to be sourced from a bona fide local bakery. But retaining good quality is just as essential. That is why they turned to The Hasthagiri

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Kade Paan aS deguSTed aT MiniSTry of Crab and KaeMa SuTra goeS Through a long ProCeSS.

iT iS faSCinaTing To waTCh The loaf TaKe ShaPe, froM The baSiC ingredienTS To The Malleable dough To The final golden ProduCT.

Bakery in Dam Street. Built in the early ‘50s, the bakery has a wood fired oven that is even older than that decade. Penetrating the bakery’s dining area, you enter the older part of the establishment where all the action goes on.

Kade Paan as degusted at Ministry of Crab and Kaema Sutra goes through a long process. It is fascinating to watch the loaf take shape, from the basic ingredients to the malleable dough to the final golden product.

It all begins at the golden hour of 3 in the afternoon, when, routinely, the flour is thrown together with yeast, salt, margarine and sugar.

This happens in a long room lined with tables and piled with trays. Kneading is done in a tub like machine, in which the dough becomes flesh-like, buttery and pliant. Then the dough is allowed to rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

Weighing the dough at Hasthagiri is done the old way in a scale with old 500g weights. The dough is

Suranthi watches as the paan loaves are conveyed to the farthest corners of the oven

44 SuranThi de Silva iS The CurrenT ProPrieTor of haSThagiri. if The baKery haS been an iMPorTanT landMarK in daM STreeT, and

ConTinueS To be So, iT iS beCauSe of PerSeveranCe.

The soft, chubby loaves seconds before entering the oven

then deposited in baking moulds, and rest for a further one hour.

In the meantime, the oven has to be readied. The firewood had been placed in morning, and at 1 in the afternoon it is set on fire. Once the wood had burnt into orangetipped coal, it is spread out on the oven floor. The next step is to wipe away all the coal. As the floor of the oven is made up of firestone, the infernal heat will stay on for a good number of hours.

Then the bread in the baking moulds are inserted into the oven, placed on long-handled poles, and the door is shut. Baking goes on for 45 minutes. At the end, trays and trays of golden-topped, softflanked loaves come out. A line of bakery hands passes on the hot moulds, their hands swathed in thick sacking.

Suranthi de Silva is the current proprietor of Hasthagiri. If the bakery has been an important landmark in Dam Street, and continues to be so, it is because of perseverance. At Hasthagiri, they believe in doing things the hard way. Hence the wood fired oven. Unlike loaves baked in modern ovens, the traditional kade paan has a taste born of charcoal, added to by their definite health

The bread goes in first, followed by trays of smaller goodies that require less heat

benefits. For this reason, Hasthagiri endures the labourious task of transporting firewood to Pettah; not a convenient thing to do, when you consider how much more handier using the now ubiquitous gas machine would have been.

Almost half a century ago, when bakeries were not so common, the paan was so much in demand that opening the doors in early morning, the staff was inevitably greeted by a queue huddled in the cold to buy the bread.

At Ministry of Crab and Kaema Sutra, Kade Paan has been established as a favourite.

Three generous slices, each cut into six cubes, come piled up besides a clay pot of thick prawn curry, crab, or any other dish of your choice.

Ministry of Crab and Kaema Sutra dishes pair well with this artisanal bread. Both of them have been made the old, hard way: with minute attention to quality, and no hard work spared.

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What’s Cooking in

Dharshan’s KITChEn Banana LEaf BarramunDI

Nestled on a tender banana leaf and cooked to perfection over a Teppanyaki grill, this Barramundi dish with caramelised onions hits all the right notes with hints of turmeric and chili. Freshness is key to any ingredient in Dharshan’s kitchens. Therefore, he goes to great lengths to source the best.

Brought from as far as Trincomalee, this Barramundi is delivered vertically on ice and in Styrofoam boxes to preserve freshness. Each portion is filleted

on order, keeping the meat firm and tender. This is an interesting dish that celebrates the harmonious fusion between Sri Lankan and Japanese cuisine.

The pure nature of the fish, cooked at just the right temperature and duration is seasoned minimally to preserve the delicate flavours of the Barramundi. This alternates beautifully with onions and other spices, which in turn unveils a colourful burst of flavour and aroma.

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ChICKEn Gyoza

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Globally known as dumplings, Gyoza has now become its own specialised genre in Japan, though it originated from China.

These dumplings are filled with ground meat and vegetables, which are wrapped in a thin dough.

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Dharshan’s kitchens have a strict policy of not buying any frozen chicken and preserving it for future use, so assuring only the very freshest is well guaranteed. The chicken that goes into Café Nihonbashi’s Gyoza is hand chopped at the main kitchen, along with being carefully mixed with cabbage and leeks. Sesame oil and soy sauce are added to further enhance flavour.

The Chicken Gyoza is made fresh at Nihonbashi Honten in limited quantities, daily. This is then refrigerated and brought to Café Nihonbashi to serve guests here.

P.S: this dish tends to finish fast!

KInG Prawn BIsquE Sri Lanka’s gigantic King Prawn is the highlight of this spicy bisque.

The fresh flavour of prawns from our island’s lakes are brought to the fore and melded with a combination of local spices such as chilli and turmeric.

This dish celebrates the nuances of traditional Sri Lankan curry, served up as a hearty soup.

Enjoy the succulence of tender prawn meat, as its seasonings compliment every bite you take.

Best experienced with Kade Paan or Garlic Bread.

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rusTIC ChICKEn BurGEr

The uniqueness of the Rustic Chicken Burger at Alexandra & Ward begins with our burger bun. Created using the dough of Sri Lanka’s traditional street bread (Kade Paan), this reveals a bun that is crusty on the outside and soft on the inside.

This bread is baked in a wood

fired oven and contains no sesame seeds.

An entire boneless leg of chicken is pan fried in olive oil and soy sauce, and served atop lettuce with onion, tomato, avocado and cheese. All of this is topped off with an egg. This burger is as filling as it is delicious!