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Dear valued passengers,
I always feel July and August are vibrant months — filled with a sense of anticipation and excitement ahead of the increased travel activity, bustling festivities, and the cherished opportunity for people across the Caribbean to come together and create lasting memories.
It’s also a time for new adventures and exploring. We live in one of the most beautiful regions on earth — blessed with amazing flora and fauna, and fabulous landscapes and coastal areas. Yet pure leisure travel within the Caribbean is surprisingly low relative to other parts of the world.
Like many younger people, my first time on a plane was to fly to New York, another continent entirely. My first Caribbean destinations were St Lucia and Jamaica for work. Even now, it has been more often the United States for non-work travel.
This is very common. In terms of holiday passengers with Caribbean Airlines from Trinidad, the US and Canada are probably highest on the list. In this way, the Caribbean is unusual — amazing holiday destinations on our doorstep yet we often go elsewhere.
I have many English friends — they famously will drive two hours to spend most weekends shivering at their nearest
A Message from our CEO
stony beach! Or jump on crowded planes for the short journey to join the crowds at overrun Mediterranean beaches. Travel is local and frequent.
Globally, travel for pleasure has become a more accessible option over the past 40 years. More and more options are available, with the industry thriving again after the pandemic slump.
At Caribbean Airlines, we are excited to be expanding the travel choices for Caribbean residents by extending our regional network even further every year. Our recently added Cuba connection has been very popular with holidaymakers, for example.
And now, we are delighted to be adding more connectivity to the Spanish- and French-speaking Caribbean. Our new flights — to Puerto Rico from mid-July and Guadeloupe in August — represent more opportunities for you to explore, experience, and enjoy the myriad cultures and landscapes that make our region so special.
Puerto Rico is a slice of America in a tropical setting, with the capital San Juan boasting impressive landmarks and amazing beaches, as well as a wide mix of vibes across the city. Guadeloupe — an archipelago of a dozen sun-kissed islands — has something for everyone, from deserted beaches to mountains and waterfalls.
I, for one, am enthused to do more travel within our beautiful region, and can recommend the many opportunities that await across our network — with many more to come in 2025 as we expand further.
This July and August, we are particularly excited about the many festivals and carnivals back in full swing after the pandemic years. I invite you to turn to pages 20–25 of this magazine for a comprehensive guide.
Here’s one I hope you didn’t miss. At the start of July, we hosted the first Caribbean Food Festival in Trinidad — a culinary celebration of the flavours and dishes of our diverse gastronomic heritage. We hope to repeat this event — and take it to other Caribbean locations — next year.
So many opportunities for new experiences. Whether you are reconnecting with loved ones, exploring new destinations, or enjoying the festive spirit of our regional celebrations, we are here to make your journey as enjoyable and memorable as possible.
Regards,
Garvin
Reducing your carbon footprint offers numerous benefits, including a healthier lifestyle and saving you money. It contributestocleanerairpromotesahealthierdietand
contributes to cleaner air, promotes a healthier diet, and reduces energy bills. Additionally, reducing your carbon footprint plays a crucial role in addressing climate change. To fight climate change, we need to limit the amount of greenhouse gases - such as carbon dioxide and methanebeing released into the atmosphere. There are two main ways to do this: we can cut back on emitting them into the air, as well as increase Earth’s ability to pull them out of the air through nature-based carbon sequestration.
Both man-made and nature-based mechanisms for reducing carbon emissions support climate change mitigation. We will require both types of solutions to ensure we limit global warming.
Some Facts about Carbon Emissions –The Built Environment
According to the United Nations Environment Programme, the built environment accounts for 39% of gross annual carbon emissions worldwide, a figure comprising both operational carbon (the ongoing carbon emissions from its day-to-day use) and embodied carbon (all the CO2 emitted in producing materials). Embodied carbon is estimated from the energy used to extract and transport raw materials as well as emissions from manufacturing processes.
Simple Tips to Reduce Your Carbon Footprint in Your Home
Switch It Off
Turn off the lights when natural light is sufficient and when you leave the room.
Climate Control
Keep your temperature regulation system on a moderate setting.
Wasteful Windows
Use your windows wisely! If you need a little fresh air, turn off the AC.
Phantom Power
Did you know that many electronics continue using energy even when powered down? This is true of any charger, television, printer, etc. Use a power strip to easily unplug these electronics when not in use.
Give It a Rest
Power your computer down when you’re away.
A computer turned off uses at least 65% less energy than a computer left on or idle on a screen saver.
Energy Efficiency
Using appliances with the 'Energy Star' certification has been proven an effective option for reducing energy use, given that appliances are typically the largest contributors to home energy bills.
No. 183 • July/August 2024
20 EvEnt buzz
Festivals and events around the region
26 Music & book buzz
Reviews by Nigel A Campbell and Shivanee N Ramlochan
28 scrEEn buzz
Jonathan Ali talks to Malaury Eloi Paisley of Guadeloupe, director of L’Homme-vertige: tales from a city
30 Eco buzz
Endangered turtles return to Caribbean shores through nesting season
32 Word of MoutH
Donna Yawching on why you should experience the Barbados Museum’s Children’s Gallery and Cuba’s Gibara International Film Festival
36 takE 5
Jamaican actor and musician Hector Donald Lewis talks to Shelly-Ann Inniss
40 PanoraMa
Golden moments
Sheldon Waithe looks back on the Caribbean’s greatest Olympic moments, and what those breakthroughs meant for the region on the world stage
44 tHE gaME
Games WIde oPen
Terrence Clarke highlights some of the Caribbean medal hopefuls aiming to write their names into Olympic — and Caribbean — history
48 backstory
Beyond the “Bajan InvasIon”
Nicholas Brancker is a Grammynominated producer, musician, and “hit maker” — but his work hasn’t yet received the recognition it deserves, Nigel Campbell writes
52 oWn Words
“I Wanted us to feel more connected to ourselves” St Lucian artist, history enthusiast,
and know your caribbean founder
Fiona Compton on growing up the child of a national hero, resisting social media traps, and making her own contribution to Caribbean history — as told to Shelly-Ann Inniss
56 insPirE an army of one
There are heroic turtle conservation efforts across the Caribbean, often led by indomitable individuals. And in Nevis, that hero is Lemuel Pemberton, writes Caroline Taylor
62 discovEr
aBout that sahara dust…
Are we getting more of it than we had been in decades past? What are its impacts? And how has Barbados become a hub for this critical atmospheric research? Erline Andrews investigates
66 on tHis day the Penn connectIon
The life and accomplishments of William Penn Jr are well documented. But his father’s (controversial) exploits are much less so, and had a significant impact on British colonial ambitions in the Caribbean, writes James Ferguson
68 nEigHbourHood Ponce, Puerto rIco
Discover the island’s magical second city
70 food for tHougHt travel WIth a dIfference
Barbadian blogger and environmental advocate Malou Morgan talks sustainable travel with Shelly-Ann Inniss
72 PuzzLEs & brain tEasErs
Enjoy our crossword, spot-thedifference, and other brain teasers!
Beat Beat Caribbean Caribbean
An MEP publication
Editor Caroline Taylor
Designer Kevon Webster
Editorial assistant Shelly-Ann Inniss
Production manager Jacqueline Smith
Finance director Joanne Mendes
Publisher Jeremy Taylor
Business development consultant Halcyon Salazar
Business Development Manager, Tobago and International Evelyn Chung T: (868) 684–4409
E: evelyn@meppublishers.com
Business Development Manager, Trinidad Tracy Farrag T: (868) 318–1996
E: tracy@meppublishers.com
Media & Editorial Projects Ltd.
6 Prospect Avenue, Long Circular, Maraval 120111, Trinidad and Tobago T: (868) 622–3821/6138
Cover Corals, molluscs, and tiny organisms (foraminifera), pulverised against the waves and brought in by the tides, give Barbuda’s beautiful Pink Sand Beach its distinctive hue
Photo BlueOrange Studio/ Shutterstock.com
this issue’s contributors:
Erline Andrews is an award-winning journalist with more than two decades of experience. She has a master’s degree from Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism, and a particular interest in the environment and conservation.
Nigel Campbell is a Trinidad-based concert producer, music industry analyst, commentator, and reviewer who’s documented Caribbean music in print, on television, and on the Music Matters: the caribbean Edition podcast.
James Ferguson is an Oxford-based publisher, translator and writer with a background in French culture and Caribbean history. He has written several books on Haiti, the Dominican Republic, and Jamaica.
Shelly-Ann Inniss is a Trinidad-based Barbadian writer; community builder; self-appointed tourism ambassador for Barbados; gluten-free baker, and founder of Your Glutenfree Companion.
Shivanee Ramlochan , a Trinidadian poet, essayist and book critic, is the author of Everyone knows i am a Haunting She blogs about Caribbean and LGBTQI+ literatures at novelniche.net.
Caroline Taylor is a Trinidadian writer, editor, performer, and producer with a particular interest in arts, culture, conservation, and the environment. Her work has appeared in various publications, including n ational g eographic and the g uardian (UK).
Sheldon Waithe is Creative Director at communiquett. com. Writing for the trinidad g uardian and Caribbean and UK sites allow him to flex his mental muscles on political, societal and sport matters, while cycling flexes his physical muscles.
Donna Yawching is a freelance writer, currently based in Canada. She has written for caribbean beat since the beginning of time — or at least since the beginning of beat, whichever came first. Her special interests are travel and culture.
Celebrating victory at Caribbean Airlines’ Village Cricket
A Messag from our CEO
The inaugural Caribbean Airlines Village Cricket T10 tournament — which kicked off on 29 March — was a spectacle of passion, culture, and competitive spirit that saw
talented teams from Trinidad & Tobago, Jamaica, and Guyana vying for the title.
Among the vibrant beats of DJ Stefan, the electrifying Malick All Stars Rhythm section, and the aroma of local culinary delights, it was Team Demerara (Guyana) that emerged victorious at the final, held on 5 May. As the sun set over Trinidad’s National Cricket Centre, with the sounds of celebration still echoing, Team Demerara’s victory was a testament to the spirit of the Caribbean — resilient, joyous, and united.
For Caribbean Airlines, the tournament underscores a commitment to promoting Caribbean culture, connection, and identity — this time, through the beloved sport of cricket, and the joy and community it fosters. Dionne Ligoure — Caribbean Airlines’ Executive Manager, Corporate Communications — talked with the winners.
Dionne Ligoure: Congratulations to your whole team! Could you describe what the experience was like for you all?
Shemroy Barrington (Captain): It was just unforgettable. Firstly, the tournament was well organised. And from the moment we arrived, we felt that Caribbean warmth and camaraderie. It wasn’t just about the competition; it was about celebrating our shared culture and passion for cricket.
DL: What do you think sets Caribbean Village Cricket apart from other competitions?
SB: The blend of culture and sport. Where else can you play a high stakes cricket match and then unwind with local favourites like doubles and chow? The energy from the crowd, the rhythm section, and the overall vibe made this tournament stand out. It felt like the entire Caribbean was cheering us on.
DL: What do you think gave Team Demerara the edge?
SB: A combination of strategic preparation, rigorous training, and strong team spirit. We analysed our opponents and focused on our strengths, particularly our batting line-up. Our determination and the incredible support from our fans also made a big difference.
DL: Can you describe your feelings when you won?
SB: Out of this world. When the final ball was bowled, for a split second, everything was silent. Then we realised we’d won, and it was pure jubilation. The cheers erupted, and we were swarmed by teammates and supporters. Winning here, in this setting, was very special.
DL: Will you and the team compete again next year?
SB: Yes, yes, and yes! We’re already looking forward to competing again in 2025. We want to defend our title and continue to be a part of this incredible celebration of Caribbean cricket and culture. It’s an exciting new experience for most of the guys, who would have played but never travelled to another country as a team before. All of this has been really amazing for us.
DL: Will you recommend participating to other clubs?
Surendra Hiralal (Manager): Absolutely! It’s an experience like no other. We wholeheartedly recommend it to other clubs. It’s more than just a competition. It was like a festival of cricket, and a celebration of who we are: energetic and passionate Caribbean people. Thanks to Caribbean Airlines for having the vision to host this tournament, and to give teams like ours the opportunity to participate on a regional scale.
wish you were here
sea you soon…!
At this time of year, all roads lead to the Caribbean Sea. From The Bahamas in the north to Trinidad & Tobago in the south, Barbados in the east to the coastlines of Central America in the west, we are blessed with a magnificent body of water that nourishes and sustains us — body, mind, and spirit. Slip off your shoes and ground out all your troubles in the sand, or make special memories in (or below!) the water — kayaking, paddleboarding, parasailing, dragon-boating, surfing, windsurfing, waterskiing, diving or snorkelling among dazzling varieties of fish, turtles, stingrays, and so much more. May we soak up all the Vitamin Sea we can — and never take any of it for granted.
Shelly-Ann Inniss on the major festivals, holidays, and celebrations across the region this July and August
Have a time!
Our histories and festivals may vary, but when Caribbean carnivals get underway, you’re always guaranteed a vibrant display of local culture — the stuff magic memories are made of!
Experience Vincy Mas (28 June–9 July), St Lucia Carnival (1–16 July), Antigua Carnival (25 July–6 August), Barbados’ Crop over (31 July–5 August), Toronto Caribbean Carnival (formerly Caribana, 1–5 August), Grenada’s Spicemas (1–13 August), and Notting Hill Carnival (25–26 August in England).
Celebrate the spirit of resistance and the hard-won end of enslavement with keti koti in Suriname (1 July), and more regional emancipation celebrations in August (see page 22).
Up north, the Bahamas goombay Summer Festival (4–25 July) features the highly anticipated Junkanoo rush-out, along with quadrille dancing, traditional Bahamian folk music (rakeand-scrape), and sumptuous Bahamian cuisine every Thursday.
Mango vert, mango teen, mango dou dou sou se matin ... The refrain from the classic folk song might come to mind as you devour mango-infused creations at the Nevis Mango Festival (5–7 July). Later in the month, don’t miss all the action at the 50th Nevis Culturama (25 July–6 August).
The Marionettes Chorale — one of Trinidad & Tobago’s oldest arts and cultural organisations — ends their 60th anniversary season in style with Mosaic VI (6–7 July), revisiting some of their landmark musical theatre and opera performances.
In St Lucia, every dish tells its own story at the St Lucia Foodie Fortnight (6–20 July), delivering diverse and tantalising culinary offerings. The country’s cultural excellence continues in August as communities gather for the month-long celebration of La Rose — one of the national flower festivals that also features a feast day or “grand fete” on 30 August.
Immerse yourself in Jamaica’s musical heritage during Reggae Sumfest (14–20 July), comprising eight events overflowing with the island’s renowned joy, unity, and uplifting vibrations.
That same week, round-the-island bus tours, thrilling hikes, iron band performances, food and craft fairs, and a calabash exhibition are on the agenda at Montserrat’s unique Calabash Festival (14–20 July).
Don’t miss Trinidad’s Hosay festivities — a local form of Islamic Muharram observances, commemorating the deaths of two of the Prophet Muhammad’s grandsons — in late July. The lunar Muslim festival unfolds over 10 days, culminating over the final three nights with powerful tassa drumming, colourful flags, tadjahs (tomb replicas), crescent moons, and dancing.
Across the water, the Tobago Heritage Festival (mid-July through 1 August) blossoms in villages all over the island, showcasing each community’s rich traditions — dance, storytelling, food, music, and more.
August in the English-speaking Caribbean dawns with Emancipation Day (1 August). Commemorations include concerts, workshops, street processions, fashion shows, and showcases of cultural crafts.
Food and history buffs might remember Captain William Bligh’s 18thcentury journey on the HMs bounty, which introduced breadfruit to the Caribbean. Many varieties provided sustenance to enslaved Africans. Nowadays, the precious starchy
fruit is enjoyed year-round, part of emancipation commemorations at St Vincent & the Grenadines’ Breadfruit Festival, and St Lucia’s Breadfruit & Breadnut Festival (1 August).
Are you up for a crash course on chocolate-making? Indulge in St Lucia’s Chocolate Heritage Month (August), with behind-the-scenes experiences in cocoa production, a delightful restorative chocolate spa treatment, chocolate cuisine, and lots more.
Which powerboat will be the first to reach Store Bay, Tobago from Trinidad in the 90-mile great Race (17 August)?
Delight in seeing the boats speed past at your favourite vantage point, or celebrate on the beach as they arrive in Tobago!
Whether floating, diving, swimming, or simply soaking up the sun, Dive Fest Barbados (18–24 August) encourages everyone to explore colourful reefs and shipwrecks. Participation in coral restoration, lionfish hunts, photo contests, beach clean-ups, and swimming with sea turtles promises to be a tonne of fun too.
The Anguilla Summer Festival (21 July–11 August) promises carnival parades, competitions, boat racing (the island’s national sport) and other maritime activities, with a taste of Anguilla’s laidback charm.
At Curaçao’s kaya kaya Street Festival (24 August), community spirit fills Otrobanda, as neighbourhoods transform into a studio for music and art. The following weekend, A-list stars — including Jennifer Hudson, Gladys Knight, Marc Anthony, and Seal — perform at the Curaçao North Sea Jazz Festival (29–31 August).
And finally, cricket lovers — and cricket party lovers! — will experience the thrill of the Caribbean Premier League (28 August–6 October) in lively, world-class CPL T20 cricket matches across the region.
this month’s listening picks from the caribbean
Reviews by Nigel Campbell
monty alexander D-Day! (Peewee!)
One could argue that, when making new music, an artist of legendary Jamaican jazz pianist Monty Alexander’s calibre — with more than 70 albums over a six decade career — is “making events, not just records”. A grander vision than a collection of songs, a thematic story woven into a sequence, makes d-day brilliantly showcases the grandeur of Commander Alexander. The 80th anniversary of the Normandy Invasion, D-Day (6 June), was also Alexander’s 80th birthday. Coincidence allows for a musical celebration that takes the listener on a sonic journey of moods, from pre-war France to “Aggression”, to a contemplation in the midst of war (“Oh Why”), and the subsequent “Restoration” of a nation with the celebration of victory and the joy of peace. Spoken by Alexander as a call for peace, Bob Marley’s classic reggae transcription of Haile Selassie’s 1963 UN speech, “War”, bookends this epic tribute to the idea of war and peace.
etienne
charles
Creole Orchestra (Culture Shock Records)
The history of Creole big bands in the Caribbean harkens back to a golden age in the French Antilles before WWII, and a post-war, counter-evolution in the English-speaking and Spanish-speaking islands. Early island migrants saw success in pre-war orchestras in the UK. Trinidadian Etienne brings a new recognition of the Creole aesthetic to jazz music and calypso in his big band arrangements. The blend of trumpet, trombone and saxes is angular, yet the rhythm never escapes into any academic dissonance. The music on this album — a blend of jazz song, swing and calypso, enhanced in a few cases by the sublime voice of Grammy nominee René Marie — swings with a tempo that never accelerates beyond the danceable human heartbeat. The US footprint in the Caribbean, enhanced by the presence of naval bases during the war, had an impact that resonates in music heard here. Charles nobly captures that ethos, returning the gaze magnificently.
john sqweird
Beautiful Dream (Selfreleased) • Single
Soul music is back in vogue. John Sqweird — formerly John John, get it? — has penned a heartfelt expression of love and yearning, a powerful serenade to a love out of his reach. “Beautiful Dream” continues his lyrical exploration of metaphor and allegory — often seen in his previous work going back to 2013 — to mine emotions and find another path for Caribbean romance from the male perspective. A series of descending chord couplets define the music and lay a bed for lyrics that, in their simplicity, deliver a message of desire without being overtly sensual. i wish i can fall, asleep for so long / you wake me up, My dead heart / this is a nightmare, Wish you were right there / so i can wake up [to] my beautiful dream. Soul music is — or should be, at least — internal and cerebral, not external and carnal. The contrast of verse and chorus, calm and majestic, with touches of hip-hop’s essence and modern soul music’s vocal vulnerability, make this song soar.
r ai hana
Love Me (Self-released) • Single
Trinidadian rocker Rai Hana describes her new single, “Love Me”, as an “energetic, vibrant, and love driven pop punk/pop rock song”. It is all of that and more. Pop music that does not irritate and echoes obvious influences is an easy sell in the Caribbean, and here Rai delivers a ditty that has a hint of “sin” written all over it, but bathes it in a familiar sheen that camouflages what’s inside. That is good songcraft: subtle yet obvious lyrics that don’t whack the listener over the head. The singer is in love and needs it ... now! The current popularity of this song style — delivered à la Olivia Rodrigo, and by a slew of former Disney teen stars turned pop princesses — was perfect to piggyback on. The modern music business demands a kind of familiarity before it seeks any uniqueness, so Rai Hana is on course for a win if all her marketing ideas are in place: tropical songbird, familiar tropes, sly singable lyrics on a catchy beat. Yup, that works!
this month’s reading picks from the caribbean
Reviews by Shivanee Ramlochan, Book Review Editor
the ferguson report: an erasure by
Nicole
Sealey (Knopf, 144 pp, ISBN 9780593535998)
Winner of the 2024 OCM Bocas Prize for Poetry, the ferguson report is a redaction writ in fire. Taking as its ignition the 2014 killing of (unarmed) Michael Brown by police forces in Ferguson, Missouri, the US Virgin Islands-born Sealey creates an erasure of the official Department of Justice report released in the wake of the murder. The poet rehouses what it states — enacting a lifted poetry from the text that bristles with rage while, in the same breath, reckoning with the uneasy quietude so often attending such man-made horrors. Charging further witness from an original document that already examines brutality, the ferguson report is a volume of precision and devastation, calling forth centuries of neighing horses, Black hands raised in protest and defence, deer whose skin stiffens from running hard under pressure. To say that this project in poetry is visionary feels plain, feels intuitive.
by Oonya Kempadoo (Rare Machines,
200 pp, ISBN 9781459751491)
Written in kaleidoscopic, undulating prose, naniki is a spiritual quest of a novel, charting an archipelagic journey by twinned spiritbeings Amana and Skelele across a Caribbean ravaged by climate catastrophe. Kempadoo, of Guyanese parentage, infuses mythos with magical realism, coming-of-age with compelling eco-fiction, creating a tessellated genre that hums to its own radical frequencies. As the animist pair of protagonists traverses both time and space, they encounter signposts of a ruined Anthropocene — but also the antidotes to such environmental wounds. Afro-Indigenous histories are vital to this shapeshifting narrative, which brings all living souls in its story together in a kind of audacious, glimmering hope. naniki asks, “How do we stay on this earth we have so bruised?” The novel answers itself, saying that our shared redemption lies in love, ready to be made manifest.
Black light void: dark visions of the caribbean edited by Marsha Pearce (Hansib Publications, 108 pp, ISBN 9781739321109)
“In the black light void you will meet yourself.” So declares the final paragraph of cultural studies scholar and curator Marsha Pearce’s introduction to this grim, grandly imagined anthology. black Light void is interdisciplinary, bringing together six writers from Trinidad & Tobago — Kevin Jared Hosein, Barbara Jenkins, Sharon Millar, Amílcar Sanatan, Portia Subran, Elizabeth Walcott-Hackshaw — to respond to the paintings of contemporary Caribbean artist Edward Bowen. The results — ranging from parasitic rafflesia plants to sexual crimes committed under propriety’s strictures — certainly summon the tenebrosity Pearce’s introduction intends. In dialoguing with Bowen’s large-scale, abstract compositions, this T&T sextet goes deeper than the darkness it is easy to imagine. This is the anthology’s strength, its animus: that we will not only fear the dark within, but embrace the abyss it conjures.
the hurricane Book: a lyrical history by Claudia Acevedo-Quiñones (Rose Metal Press, 160 pp, ISBN 9781941628317)
Puerto Rican Claudia Acevedo-Quiñones’ debut draws on lyrical, anecdotal, and reportage writing in a swirling epicentre of creative non-fiction, tracking six hurricanes that passed through the island from 1928 to 2017. the Hurricane book is as much a map as it is a family tree, a scrapbook of assembled memories, domestic recollections, and unearthed secrets — a rich and remarkable patina atop the cartography of an entire society governed by US superstructural neglect and environmental crises. As an autobiography bordered by poems and possibilities not always hemmed in by the fundamentally verifiable, this is a work that faces rather than flees authorial unreliability. An archive, too, can be as capricious as a tempest — as difficult to plot with fidelity as the path of a ravaging storm. This hybrid ode to ancestry, sanctuary, and crisis ripples with the undeniable rhythms of the ocean surrounding us all.
Claudia Acevedo-Quiñones
Hurricane Book
naniki
“Vertigo is a state of anxiety bordering on madness”
In 2016, the filmmaker Malaury Eloi-Paisley began documenting Pointeà-Pitre — her hometown and the administrative centre of Guadeloupe, a Caribbean department of France. Specifically, she filmed the lives of several people on its precarious margins. Eight years later, her intimate and ambitious tapestry of a film, L’homme-vertige: tales of a city, appears, a witness to these lives.
Through the compassionate lens of the filmmaker’s camera, we meet a series of indelible characters. There’s the elderly Ti Chal, who joined the Cuban Revolution and now suffers from lung disease. There’s also Eddie — a world-wise, homeless drug addict. And Eric, a stoic philosopher, walks his decaying city while reciting a series of searching literary texts. Taken together, these sensitive cinematic portraits form the poetic analogue of an island and a society.
Malaury Eloi-Paisley spoke to Jonathan Ali about the process of realising her quietly extraordinary film.
What prompted you to make this film?
I’m struck by the power of the encounters I have, and the characters whose paths I cross. Seers and prophets who inhabit the city of Pointe-à-Pitre and say something about us and our history. There was an urgency to address certain issues — unspoken aspects of society. “This monstrosity”, as the Martinican novelist Patrick Chamoiseau puts it.
What does “L’homme-Vertige” — literally, “Vertigo Man” — signify? L’homme-vertige is a poem. I’m influenced by Haitian literature, particularly Spiralism, which broke with the dictates of rational thought and linear narrative. The Haitian poet Frankétienne uses the rhythms of Creole language — a vivid language, rich in metaphors, with a unique musicality. He uses this term “vertige” a lot when he talks about the chaos of Port-auPrince.
Similarly, I wanted to speak of our territory with our rhythms and our language. Vertigo is a state of anxiety bordering on madness. The men and women in my film witness the chaos of
the world — the anguish of a society on the brink of the abyss — but hold on, unable to be knocked over. I was looking for a term that would embody this complexity.
How did you meet your participants, and what was the process of getting to know them like?
Because I believe that cinema is not separate from life, I met them because I am who I am. I see unique beings and there’s something about their way of being in the world that fascinates me. It’s the surge of curiosity that drives me towards others. Cinema is an alibi to maintain that bond, which might not exist otherwise — or that can only exist through cinema.
In addition to documenting the lives of its participants, the film is a witness to the urban evolution of Pointe-à-Pitre.
When I returned to live in Guadeloupe after several years abroad, the city was in the throes of change. There was little, if any, documentation of what was happening — the displacement and resettlement of the city’s inhabitants, some of whom can’t afford the new
Stills from L’homme-Vertige: Tales of a City (2024)
Courtesy Malaury Eloi Paisley
The flag of independence is increasingly present in everyday life. When we started editing, I wondered how outsiders would understand that this is a colony. I told myself that French flags should be seen in the landscape. I thought there had to be obvious signs for people to understand the colonial presence. But this violence is everywhere — permeating architecture, bodies, words.
Is independence the solution?
I don’t think that’s the question. I don’t know what the solution to this violence is. I can only say that there are structural problems of a political, economic, and social nature. These
housing. There are numerous squats, abandoned buildings, and fires. To film the reverse side of Pointe-àPitre is to experience emptiness and immobility, while also to measure the consequences of history and successive policies adopted thousands of kilometres away in Europe.
The film also registers the independence movement, the uPLg (People’s union for the Liberation of guadeloupe). The movement’s flag is a repeated motif in the film and is prominent in the final shot.
are inextricably linked to the past with the French state, to the relations inherited from colonial society, to economic dependence, to the lack of a policy of food self-sufficiency, to unemployment, to the poisoning of the soil ... the list is long. So far, France has not acted in our interests. Always this contempt, this feeling of superiority. What more can I say?
The Caribbean is among the most important turtle nesting grounds globally — particularly Trinidad, which is the second largest nesting site for leatherbacks in the world, and the largest in the western hemisphere. And May through August is the best time to see both the nesting mothers and the baby hatchlings who begin to emerge. It’s a magical, unforgettable experience!
Sea turtles — keystone species, and all vulnerable or endangered — play important roles in keeping our oceans healthy. They provide food for other wildlife, maintain coral reefs and seagrass beds, and control jellyfish populations. Hatchlings also face long odds — about one in 1,000 or fewer will reach maturity. The females that do will eventually make their way back to these shores to begin the ritual anew.
It’s one of the many reasons WIDECAST — the Wider Caribbean Sea Turtle Network comprising NGOs across the Caribbean (widecast.org) — has worked tirelessly to protect them, through a range of community-driven programmes, beach patrols, turtle-tagging, captive breeding, rehabilitation, public education, and turtle tours for locals and visitors alike.
turtles lay a few times per season; each nest can hold more than 100. cayman islands turtle centre: (345) 949-3894, info@turtle.ky
guyana: Shell Beach on the northern coast hosts one of the ocean’s smallest sea turtles: the olive ridley (March–August). Half the adventure is getting to this remote and unspoilt region. guyana Marine turtle conservation society: guyanamarineconservation.org.
grenada: loggerheads, greens, hawksbills, and notably leatherbacks visit the island, particularly Levera Beach (April–June). oceanspirits.org
Dominica: spy loggerheads, greens, leatherbacks, and hawksbills, particularly at Rosalie Bay, Bout Sable, Cabana Bay, Wesley, and Calibishie (April–June). domsetco.org
Jamaica: hawksbills are the main attraction here, especially on the north coast (June–August). jamentrust.org/ sea-turtles
Trinidad & Tobago is home to five sea turtle species (leatherbacks, hawksbills, greens, olive ridleys, and loggerheads), and sees large numbers of turtles — particularly leatherbacks — on five beaches in particular: Grand Rivière, Matura, Fishing Pond (in Trinidad), and Stonehaven and Courland (Tobago). Turtles also nest on other popular beaches, including Maracas, Las Cuevas, Mayaro, Manzanilla, Lambeau, Man O’ War Bay, and Pigeon Point. nature seekers (natureseekers. org) & the turtle village trust (turtlevillagetrust.org)
Barbados prides itself on being home to one of the Caribbean’s largest hawksbill populations. Nesting mothers often seek out more isolated areas on the south and west coasts of the island from April to November, laying over 100 eggs at a time, and up to six times a season. barbados sea turtle Project: barbadosseaturtles.org
The Cayman Islands’ national symbol is the green turtle, and the efforts of local NGOs have seen nesting numbers increase after populations were nearly decimated in recent decades. Green
Florida (uSA): loggerheads and four other species are protected by the Florida Fish & Wildlife Conservation Commission’s Marine Turtle programme on the east coast (between Titusville and Fort Lauderdale). Nesting peaks in June and July. myfwc.com/research/wildlife/ sea-turtles
check out our website — caribbean-beat.com — for extended coverage of turtle conservation across the region, and how you can help.
turtle
coriacea) returns to the sea after nesting at grande Rivière beach, Trinidad
Donna Yawching shares why you must visit the unforgettable Children’s Gallery in the Barbados Museum, then takes us inside Cuba’s Gibara International Film Festival
A MAGICAL
MYSTERY TOUR AT THE BARBADOS MUSEUM
As museums go, the Barbados Museum is indisputably charming. Compact enough to be manageable, diverse enough to be interesting, it is housed in the 19th-century military prison of the historic colonial Garrison — part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its exhibits cover all the expected bases: natural history, Indigenous history, colonial history, social history, a collection of fine arts and antique furniture, and a couple of galleries dedicated to temporary exhibitions.
What is unexpected is the Children’s Gallery. While many modern museums include interactive kiddies’ corners squeezed in amidst the adult stuff, few (and I would wager, none in the Caribbean) devote an entire gallery exclusively to the enchantment of children.
Crammed with colourful, engaging — and, of course, educational — exhibits,
this space is simply a delight, designed to appeal to children of all ages. It offers hands-on, whimsical activities that illustrate such concepts as flight, motion, sound waves, and seismic activity — even architecture.
On the Shake Table, you can build a house of blocks, then test its resilience against an earthquake. You can gawk at bugs through a microscope, with the image clearly projected on a large screen. You can generate energy via handles and pedals, and learn how much it takes to power a light bulb versus a laptop, or an electric drill.
You can compare the different intensities of sound waves by banging on a skin drum or a steelpan; and (my favourite), you can perform medical procedures on
an imaginary patient, pressing buttons to indicate your choice of treatments. (Full disclosure: my patient probably died.)
Alissandra Cummins has been the director of the Barbados Museum since 1985. She explained that there has been a Children’s Gallery since 1953 (the Museum itself opened in 1933), but it was of course dated, despite some tinkering around the edges in the 1980s.
“It was worn-out, old fashioned … it did not represent contemporary museum design,” she pointed out. “It was all in the form of scale models — models of Bridgetown, the sugar cane industry … what the makers considered to be the foundation of Barbados.” The space was used mainly for teaching classes.
It wasn’t until 2012 that discussion began around the idea of transforming the space completely into “a much more tangible, interactive experience”, Cummins recalled. A broad-based committee of teachers, parents, and policy-makers (many of whom had visited contemporary museums abroad) was formed to give “insights and inputs”.
In 2014 a private foundation, the Maria Holder Memorial Trust, came on board, funding the dream — officially named the
Photography courtesy Barbados Museum & Historical Society
The Barbados museum & historical Society includes dedicated children’s and other educational galleries plus an on-site research library
Finally, in 2021, the exhibit was opened to the public — COVID-19, of course, having played its part in delaying the event — and the response has been enthusiastic.
Usership has grown steadily amongst families, school groups and special interest groups. One excited parent, Risée Chaderton-Charles, exclaimed: “If you haven’t yet taken your kids, you must go visit this gallery. Borrow a kid, if necessary; it is absolutely spectacular. Five stars!”
Jairus Brewster Children’s Gallery — to the tune of about BDS$800,000 (approximately US$400,000).
Design work started in 2018; various science education museums in the United Kingdom were consulted; and designer Dennis Brennan, also from the UK, was chosen to execute the project. He had lived in the Caribbean, Cummins explained, and therefore understood the importance of keeping the exhibits relevant to local interests.
Even so, she said, “Most of the concepts came from the teachers and the parents, who wanted to make sure that certain things would be covered, such as the environment and the human body.”
The gallery has also piqued the interest of educators and researchers. The Ministry of Education and other teacher training organisations send neophyte teachers to observe how the children interact. The museum itself does minisurveys to gauge how much the children have learnt during a visit. “People doing research in education are very interested, both local and foreign,” Cummins said.
But, she added: “The best reviewers are the kids. They drag their parents in there, and they are staying in there. They are not leaving until they have touched, and felt, and experienced every single thing. To me, that’s what a museum is about.”
THE GIBARA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
The town of Gibara, on Cuba’s east coast, can best be described as “sleepy”. There are few cars or trucks; when one rattles by, the stray dogs snoozing in the middle of the road don’t even bother to move — the motorists drive carefully around them.
This would seem an unlikely venue for a major cultural showcase, but once a year this tranquil fishing village comes alive to host the Gibara International Film Festival — an event which has been described by CubaPLUS Magazine as “one of the most original, important and cul -
turally integrated festivals in the world”.
Hyperbole? Perhaps. But, undeniably, this festival is unique — and quintessentially Cuban. Conceived by the country’s renowned director Humberto Solás, the festival was launched in 2003 under the name Cine Pobre (Low Budget) Festival de Gibara, to highlight “quality cinema” from independent (usually young and impecunious) filmmakers.
Why Gibara and not Havana, you may be wondering. In 1968, the town was the setting for Solás’ internationally lauded film Lucía ; clearly nostalgia won out. (Unsurprisingly, the festival’s top award is the Lucía de Honor.)
Originally limited to films and audiovisual works created for less than US$300,000, in 2018 the festival changed its name — and possibly its focus — and is now open to a wider range of creative endeavours.
Participants from all over the world — Iran, Ecuador, India, France — submit their works to be judged by panels of national and international luminaries in the field of cinema and the arts.
This year, the festival runs 6–10 August, with 45 works competing in six different categories. In addition to the three main juries, there will be one made up of youth moviegoers.
The programme includes special screenings and exhibitions from other international festivals; intellectual discussions in the mornings; and press conferences in the afternoons. And, as always in Cuba, there will be music, dancing, theatre, and activities for children in various squares, parks and cultural spaces.
In past years, the festival has drawn a loyal following of local and foreign visitors, attracted by its “alternative” vibe, as well as the charm of its setting. The pandemic, of course, took its toll, shuttering the festival for two years, and it has struggled to recover from the financial hit to the island’s tourism sector.
But if 2023 was any indication, the festival appears to be resurging. There is every reason to hope for a riveting event. n
BUILDING HIS OWN LEGACY
What’s been your experience since Bob Marley: One Love’s debut?
I’ve been experiencing way more support and engagement from people and communities all over the world — and, most of all, back home in Jamaica. It exceeded my expectations because I was so consumed with the process of making the art … Being an actor is a totally different world and space … I love sharing a great legacy like Carlton “Carly” Barrett. I am so grateful I was able to be a vehicle for that story alongside some of the best in the business.
Jamaican actor, educator, and Grammy-nominated musician Hector “Roots” Lewis made his Hollywood debut in bob Marley: one Love earlier this year as drummer Carlton “Carly” Barrett. He reflects on his journey with Shelly-Ann Inniss
Barrett was referred to as “the alpha & omega of reggae drumming”. How did portraying him affect you personally and professionally?
It was truly an honour to tell the story of Carlton Barrett. While there are theoretical approaches to drumming, he transcended that, and basically played what he felt. His sound came from listening to multiple genres of music, especially the music in America like jazz, funk, soul, disco.
Studying Carlton’s legacy brought me right back to my days at Edna Manley College of the Visual & Performing Arts. I have
Photography courtesy Hector Lewis
fond memories of creating a timetable around the project … it taught me to appreciate the contributions he and Jamaican culture have made to the global musical landscape.
It also taught me to be brave with my musicianship and to live with intention. That was further reinforced by speaking with his nephew, Aston Barrett Jr, during the making of Bob Marley: One Love. Carly lived a life of purpose … one that didn’t need him to be gratified in materialism, but to be enriched by the power of music.
After being around so many influential people through your life and career, who’s one person you wish you could work with and why?
The list is very long, and I’ve already been afforded the opportunity to work alongside some dream collaborators. As I’ve gotten older, I really wish I could have worked with my mum [singer Barbara Jones, described as the “Billie Holliday of reggae”]. I always think of producing her music, harmonising with her, applying some of the sound advice she’d given me, especially during the height of her career, and adding to the legacy that she built. I hope I’m able to continue doing this in everything I create.
Are you currently working on any projects?
My latest single called “Possibility” dropped on 31 May and was created with a very talented producer and engineer from California called Johnny Cosmic. It represents a deliberate step forward in evolving my sound and not limiting my artistry to genre; people will hear a lot more about it in my album that comes soon.
On the production side of things, there’s a very special artist called KA$E I’ve started to work with. It’s my way of getting closer to the heart of the music. I’m really excited to show that side to my art. Beyond that, I’m mostly practising different instruments, engaging in several writing sessions at home and the studio.
I have become so much braver with my art and more innovative with my attitude towards music in the last few years.
Music is so much more than my passion: it is my life’s work, shaped by a bloodline of talent. So I’m much more focused on sound, sonics, vocal delivery, vocal feeling. My evolution is about sharpening my ear and pouring my heart and experiences into what I do.
Any final words?
I just want to thank everyone who’ve supported my journey over the years. It is really important for me to share in community as I create art. Music is healing, but it is also a journey of self-discovery. I’m excited to see where the path takes me, honoured that music continues to lead me on a path of righteousness, and I’m grateful for every step along the way. n
hector lewis plays the role of Carlton Barrett in the Bob Marley: One Love biopic
F LI g HT o F THE IBIS
The stunning scarlet or red ibis (Eudocimus ruber) inspires awe in all the Caribbean and South American regions it inhabits — including Guyana, Suriname, Venezuela, French Guiana, Colombia, Brazil, the ABC islands, and Trinidad & Tobago (where it’s one of the country’s two national birds). These beautiful creatures inhabit wetlands and other marshy habitats like the mudflats of the Shell Beach region in northwest Guyana, as pictured here — a magnificent protected area with an abundance of biodiversity and an array of bird species like kingfishers, spoonbills, flamingos, and more.
GOLDEN MOMENTS
Against the backdrop of the Paris Olympics, Sheldon Waithe looks back on the Caribbean’s greatest Olympic victories, and what those breakthroughs meant for the region on the world stage
Above Arthur Wint of Jamaica wins the 400m final at the 1948 london Olympics Left Teofilo Stevenson fights Pjotr zayev in the heavyweight final at the 1980 moscow Olympics
Stepping up is something that Caribbean nations are accustomed to — harnessing talent, putting in the hard work, surpassing expectations by punching above our weight. It’s little surprise, then, that this talent and determination has seen us excel on the biggest sporting stage of all — ultimately stepping up to the top of the Olympic podium.
Our storied history of Olympic success is one of electrifying and emotional moments as we witness our athletes claiming gold, before hearing our national anthems played and seeing our flags raised high.
And through all those moments, no matter which country we call home, there is regional pride, support and solidarity as our Caribbean brothers and sisters take on — and beat — the rest of the world, knowing that this success is a result of nothing less than tremendous talent married to unflinching belief, endeavour, and determination.
From their very first time at the Olympic Games (in London, 1948), Caribbean athletes came to win medals — not just to participate. Those were the first Games in a world forever changed by World War II. It was the perfect setting for island nations to announce themselves as they began their journeys toward independence.
In those 1948 Games, Jamaica’s a rthur Wint and herb mcKenley kickstarted the region’s love affair with the 400 metres, finishing first and second — with Wint also taking silver in the 800m.
To prove the point, in Helsinki four years later, George r hoden kept the 400m in Jamaican hands before teaming up with McKenely, Wint and l eslie l aing to win the 4x400m relay — the first of numerous relay wins for Caribbean nations.
Depth in sprinting is something that Jamaica has in abundance; their men and women have rarely been without a medal. In Montreal (1976), it was don Quarrie who set the 200m track ablaze, rounding the bend at blistering speed, and never relinquishing his lead.
deon hemmings’ memorable 400m hurdles gold in Atlanta (1996) emphatically confirmed the “arrival” of the Caribbean women. She followed in the footsteps of the legendary merlene o ttey, who competed in seven Olympic Games and earned nine medals — three silvers and six bronze, though none gold.
veronica campbell’s 200m win in Athens (2004) was a preview for Beijing 2008, where Jamaican women won seven medals, including golds for Campbell, s helly-a nn f raserPryce, and melanie Walker. Their dominance continued with the emergence of e laine t hompson- herah , who won five gold medals in Rio 2016 and Tokyo 2020.
Trinidad & Tobago’s hasely Crawford and Jamaica’s Don Quarrie (centre left and right, respectively) — both Olympic gold medallists — were frequent sprint competitors in the 1970s
The incomparable usain Bolt was at the forefront of this era of Jamaican dominance, with a string of unforgettable performances. But it’s his first gold medal race in 2008 — the 100m — that stands apart.
Bolt’s antics on the Beijing starting line brought an unprecedented level of showmanship and entertainment to athletics, making him a global star. After 90m, he was cruising — looking left and right, arms out breaking his stride, lacings untied on one shoe, yet crossing the finish line in a new world record.
“Then they say they never see that yet / start to finish moving like a jet”, sang calypsonian Maestro of h asely crawford, Trinidad & Tobago’s first gold medallist. From the unenviable position of lane one, the muscular Crawford powered his way to the 100m title in 1976, and T&T celebrated “gold, gold, the fastest human in the whole wide world” for weeks afterwards.
With Quarrie’s win in the 200m and the great Cuban, a lberto juantorena , also capturing the 400m and 800m, it was a Caribbean clean sweep of the shorter distance events.
T&T’s male sprinters also brought home gold in 2008’s 4x100m relay, but it was Keshorn Walcott ’s performance in 2012 that proved to be the biggest surprise. As reigning World Junior Champion in javelin, he was sent to the Games for experience.
But one massive throw later, on a blustery London night, he was his nation’s third gold medal winner, with a cool demeanour on the podium that belied the enormity of his achievement — becoming the youngest ever Olympic javelin champion at just 19.
Trinidad & Tobago’s keshorn Walcott is the first Caribbean male athlete — and the first of African descent, and the youngest — to win a gold medal in a throwing event in the history of the Olympics
usain Bolt Shaunae miller-uibo
London 2012 was also the stage for another Caribbean delight: Grenada’s first Olympic medal. Fittingly, it was gold. Kirani james came into the 400m as a favourite, but faced stiff competition for the coveted title.
From the start, his long strides and relaxed style took him past his rivals, and the 19-year-old James eased across the line, making Grenada the smallest nation to win an Olympic gold medal.
medal milestones
Beyond gold, there have been many significant Olympic medal wins for Caribbean athletes.
Cuba
4x100m women’s relay (silver, 1968)
When the Cuban quartet of Miguelina Cobian, Marlene Elejarde, Violetta Quesada, and Fulgencia Romay crossed the line, they not only became the first women from their nation to win an Olympic medal — they were the first for the entire Caribbean region. This landmark track performance paved the way for the many more that followed.
Jamaica
Cycling, 1km time trial (bronze, 1980)
Here, a 23-year-old David Weller took on the might of the Eastern European cycling powerhouses and shocked the sporting world with his podium place. It is still Jamaica’s only medal in a sport other than athletics.
guyana
Boxing, bantamweight (bronze, 1980)
Michael Anthony punched his way to Guyana’s only Olympic medal, defeating opponents from Mexico, Niger, and Syria before a tough loss to the eventual gold medallist from Cuba. Anthony then embarked on a 15-year professional career.
Barbados
100m sprint (bronze, 2000)
Barbados’ first and, thus far, only Olympic medal came when obadale Thompson became the third fastest man in the world.
Trinidad & Tobago
200m individual medley (bronze, 2004)
george Bovell III’s medal was the only one for Trinidad & Tobago in Athens 2004 (and remains its only medal in swimming) — providing a bridge between Ato Boldon’s medal-winning years of the previous two Games, and the golds to come in Beijing 2008 and London 2012 (all of which were in athletics).
Suriname also has a single gold medal to its name, courtesy of a nthony nesty ’s heart-stopping one hundredth of a second win in the 100m butterfly in Seoul (1988). By beating more favoured swimmers from the United States and Australia, Nesty also became the first Black athlete to win an Olympic swimming gold medal.
His win reverberated around the region, to the extent that T&T issued a postal stamp to mark the accomplishment.
Cuba’s 235 Olympic medals — including 84 golds — makes them the regional gold standard in terms of precious metal. The Cold War era saw the nation prioritise sport, regarding the Olympics as an international indicator of their success (in line with the Soviet Union).
With wins across myriad disciplines — from fencing to canoeing — boxing scored them some of their greatest Olympic triumphs. In Munich (1972), heavyweight teófilo stevenson knocked out three opponents on his way to gold, then defended his title in Montreal and Moscow. Despite multi-million dollar offers to turn professional, he remained loyal to the Cuban revolutionary ideals.
Few will forget s haunae m iller- uibo’s gold at Rio 2016. In the perfect example of “wanting it” more than anyone else, in the dying moments of the 400m — with her competitors closing in on her — Miller dived across the finish line to win by seven hundredths of a second.
no matter which country we call home, there is regional pride, support and solidarity as our caribbean brothers and sisters take on — and beat — the rest of the world
In Tokyo, she defended her title with a less dramatic performance, winning The Bahamas’ eighth gold medal overall — with five of them coming from 400m events, proving the nation’s strength in the discipline.
There are Caribbean nations that have yet to stand on the top step of the Olympic podium, but as each Games captures the planet’s attention for two action-packed weeks every four years, there is no shortage of inspiration for the region’s youth — from both its proud history and the promise of continued brilliance on the greatest sporting stage of all. Stay tuned. n
Learn more about caribbean olympic history including profiles of some of the athletes mentioned — at caribbean-beat.com/olympics
With the 2024 Olympic Games set for 26 July–11 August in Paris, Terrence Clarke highlights some of the Caribbean medal hopefuls aiming to write their names into Olympic — and Caribbean — history
Bring on the competition, the intrigue, stories of success and despair.
Years of preparation will be tested over two weeks of sporting excellence, as the nations of the world converge in France for the 2024 Paris Olympic Games.
Ouvrons grand les Jeux — “Games wide open” — is a fitting motto, as 10,500 athletes will compete in 329 events in 32 sports.
As the Jamaicans would say, “we likkle but we tallawah” (small, but powerful). And though small, the Caribbean has earned the respect and a reputation at the Games, particularly in track and field.
The Caribbean made its mark at the 2020 Tokyo Games, securing 34 medals — of which 18 came from athletics. And while the region has enjoyed success outside of athletics, it’s sure to provide the bulk of our medals in Paris.
Countless Caribbean athletes are going for gold in Paris and primed for success, but here are a few with particularly strong chances of medalling in Paris.
GAMES WIDE OPEN
Cuba
m ijaín l ópez núñez (wrestling)
The indomitable veteran
Paris will be López Núñez’s fifth Olympics. And this year, he could achieve a staggering record as the first man to win five consecutive gold medals. However, he is fighting against the only opponent no-one can defeat: time. At almost 42 years young, age, fatigue, and the weight of expectation are all working against him. Nevertheless, anything is possible with this Cuban legend.
St Lucia
julien a lfred (women’s 100m)
The wait is over?
This will be St Lucia’s eighth Olympic Games, but the “Helen of the West Indies” has never experienced Olympic success. The long wait could end in Paris, as Julien Alfred (22) has emerged as a genuine sprint star. No longer is she just a prospect, but a true challenger — earning gold at the World Indoor Champs and silver at the Commonwealth Games. She’s eager to prove she’s ready in Paris.
Dominican Republic
marileidy Paulino (women’s 400m)
The barefoot champ
Marileidy Paulino (27) could easily have had a successful handball career but, as fate would have it, a switch to track would prove her destiny. She’s already put together a successful career: she’s the first woman from the Dominican Republic to win an individual gold medal, is the reigning 400m World Champion, and has a pair of silver medals from Tokyo. It’s incredible to think she started off running barefoot, but this humble star is hungry to add more success in Paris.
Barbados
sada Williams (women’s 400m)
The “long sprint” heiress
Sada Williams became the first Barbadian woman to medal at the World Championships, and could very well be the first Barbadian woman to medal at the Olympics as well. The 26-year-old has established herself as a contender in the 400m (long sprint), adding Commonwealth Games gold to her bronze medals from the last two World Championships.
Sada Williams of Barbados competes in the 400m semi-finals at the 2023 World Athletics Championships in Budapest
Jamaica
s helly-a nn f raser-Pryce, s hericka jackson, and e laine t hompsonherah (track)
The last hurrah
They are all household names and, among them, have won 19 Olympic and 32 World Championship medals. But all things must come to an end, and Paris will certainly be the last time this domi -
nant, iconic trio will compete together, as Fraser-Pryce (37) has confirmed this will be her final Olympic appearance. Her younger compatriots (Jackson is 30 and Thompson-Herrah 32) will likely have more history on their minds as a new generation readies to make its mark. But the entire region will be cheering for these Jamaican sprint queens, hoping their final act together will end with a podium finish.
Trinidad & Tobago
nicholas Paul (cycling) Redemption road
It would be unfair to put the weight of an entire nation on the shoulders of one, but Nicholas Paul (25) is used to pressure. He’s not the islands’ only Olympic hopeful, but certainly the most likely. And T&T is hungry for a medal after going without one at the Tokyo Games in 2021 — breaking a streak where the islands had won at least one medal at every Olympic Games since Barcelona (1992). Blessed with immense speed, the world record holder in the flying 200m will be hoping to convert his successes at Pan American, Commonwealth, and World Championships level into Olympic glory.
Above Elaine Thompson-herah (centre) celebrates gold — and setting a new women’s 100m Olympic record — with silver medallist Shelly-Ann FraserPryce (left) and bronze medallist Shericka Jackson at the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo
opposite page, bottom Thea laFond celebrates women’s triple jump gold at the 2024 World Indoor Athletics Championships in glasgow, Scotland
The Bahamas
Steven Gardiner (men’s 400m)
The Cinderella man
When Steven Gardiner (28) struck 400m gold in Tokyo, it confirmed he was among the elites in his discipline, especially after earning silver and gold in previous World Championships. Plagued with injuries since his Olympic success, he’s now recovered and aiming to bounce back with a second gold medal in Paris.
Grenada
Kirani James (men’s 400m)
The spice man
Can you imagine having a stadium named after you by the time you’re 25? It was a fitting tribute to the nation’s first and only Olympic gold medal winner. But at the same age, James was diagnosed with Graves disease (an autoimmune disorder). It’s been a major challenge, but that didn’t
prevent him achieving athletic success. Still in his prime at 31, “the spice man” is a safe bet to continue his streak of winning a medal at every Olympic Games in which he has participated.
Dominica
Thea LaFond (triple jump)
The leaping ballerina
When you marry grace with athleticism, the outcome is something special. The Dominican ballerina (30) turned triple jumper has turned heads — especially after striking silver and bronze at the Commonwealth Games. As the first Dominican athlete to medal, she confirmed her status ahead of Paris with gold at the most recent World Indoor Championships.
Puerto Rico
Jasmine Camacho-Quinn (100m hurdles) 200%er
Despite being born and raised in South Carolina, Camacho-Quinn (27) decided to represent her mother’s native land. In Tokyo, she struck gold in the 100m hurdles — becoming the second Puerto Rican to win a gold medal and the first of Afro-Latino descent. She has since proven she’s a mainstay on the podium with silver and bronze medals at previous World Championships, and will want to defend her title in Paris. n
Olympic dreaming
Here are more among the myriad Caribbean medal hopefuls to keep your eyes on.
Dylan Carter • Trinidad & Tobago • swimming
Julio César De La Cruz • Cuba • boxing
Devynne Charlton • The Bahamas • 100m hurdles
Lazaro Martinez • Cuba • triple jump
Shaune Miller-Uibo • The Bahamas • 200/400m
Hansel Parchment • Jamaica • 110m hurdles
Leyanis Pérez • Cuba • triple jump
Anderson Peters • Grenada • javelin
Wayne Pinnock • Jamaica • long jump
Jereem Richards • Trinidad & Tobago • 200/400m
Shanieka Ricketts • Jamaica • long jump
BEYOND THE “BAJAN INVASION”
He’s a prolific Grammy-nominated producer, writer, musician, composer, bandleader, and “hit maker”. But Nicholas Brancker’s work and impact hasn’t yet received the recognition it deserves, writes Nigel Campbell
Many may know Nicholas Brancker for his role in the spread of soca beyond its Trinidad & Tobago origins. But far beyond that, he has been a shining example of how Caribbean musicians can succeed both at home and abroad, holding their own against titans of the global music business.
With an impressive body of work and numerous accolades, his journey serves as a potential roadmap for Caribbean musicians seeking to sustain a successful music career in these islands (and beyond them). And yet, Brancker’s name is too seldom called in conversations about Caribbean musicians who have achieved excellence in the arts.
Born in England in August 1965 to a Bajan (Barbadian) father and Trinidadian mother, Brancker would return “home” as a child — first to Trinidad, then to Barbados when the family settled there permanently in 1970.
He was a prodigy. From age three, he was picking out melodies on a toy piano, before starting formal piano lessons at seven. “My interest in music is something I do not remember starting. It has always existed,” he told Caribbean Beat . Despite his initial resistance to it, he acknowledges that formal training as necessary. Family was also integral to his musical beginnings. “I was very fortunate that both my parents loved music,” he says.
His mother was more musically experienced, coming from a family of musicians in church, while his father had come from a Bajan household that “was a little less tolerant of the artistic side”, and was self-taught.
Brancker’s first music lesson from his father was perhaps the most important, leaving a lasting impact that continues to inform every facet of his work: “You can make whatever you are doing your own, even if it has already been created,” he explains. “Every performance is me, in some way, diving into some artistic interpretation of something.”
His father’s love of the blues also impacted how Brancker saw Black music’s global impact, and the responsibility to “not lose sight of what music has always meant to us as a people,” he continues. “It’s not just a source of entertainment — it’s a spiritual source, a cultural source, an identity we use to propel ourselves through history.”
Brancker consequently listened deeply to a broad range of popular Caribbean and American recorded music over the years, developing a broadbased musical understanding. He also evolved from keyboardist to bassist during high school. “From the first time I saw a bass being played, I
said, ‘I need to do that.’ I never actually taught myself,” he remembers. “I just picked it up and started to play.”
Still a teenager, he was already becoming well-established through numerous gigs and performances, including at the Battleground Calypso Tent in Barbados in 1984. There, he met Guyanese-British music legend Eddy Grant, impressing him enough that Grant asked Brancker (then a university student) to join him on his forthcoming world tour (1985–86). It was the chance of a lifetime.
“My only issue was, how am I breaking this to my parents?” Brancker recalls. “My line of reasoning was I could always go back to university, [but] I don’t know if I could get this shot again.” Though “unsettled” — especially his father — they let him go. And, in a full circle moment, the University of the West Indies awarded Brancker an honorary doctorate in 2021.
The first record production credit in Brancker’s extensive and varied catalogue was for an album by Bajan calypsonian Adonijah in 1984. His most recent was for an EP by trumpeter and singer Kweku Jelani in 2023. He’s also released two albums as leader — In Contempt (1996) and Touching Bass (2017). And, over four decades, he’s written, recorded, and/or produced a staggering number of songs — reportedly over 3,000.
“I make music because I have no choice,” he explains. “I have this inside fighting to come out. It is not for accolades.”
And yet, the accolades came, including two Grammy nominations in 1992 for Best Contemporary Jazz Song and Best Contemporary Jazz Performance (for “Love Is” by flautist Sherry Winston); the Barbados Service Star (1995) from the Barbadian government; and 18 Sunshine Awards between 1994 and 2002.
When soca star Red Plastic Bag eschewed Trinidadian producers for Brancker with his 1993 hit “Ragga Ragga”, it resulted in a flow of talent from Trinidad to Barbados seeking similar production. An industry of Bajan calypso and soca blossomed.
“i can’t think of another group of people who have done more per capita for music on the planet than us. it is a shame that [caribbean people] tend to view ourselves still as less than”
While spending a few months in Jamaica in 1994 working with Mikey Bennett — of “Telephone Love” (1988) and “Mr Lover Man” (1992) fame — Brancker heard no music with the frenetic pace of T&T’s soca. Studying the evolving science of acoustics and sound engineering, he learned not to clutter the clarity of the soundscape with competing frequencies, to minimise the instrumentation, and to allow the bass to pump. It formed a template for his new soca.
The result was a period marketed by T&T promoters as the infamous “Bajan invasion” in the mid-to-late 1990s, when the “groovy” tempo “ragga soca” music of Bajan bands krosfyah, Square One, and Coalishun dominated
the radio airwaves and T&T’s carnival with hits like “Pump Me Up” (1994), “Turn it Around” (1997), and “Ice Cream” (1996). Brancker worked on all — either as a musician, arranger, or producer.
The response, after the initial burst of euphoria, was almost xenophobic — with Brancker being described as the “general of the Bajan invasion”. This perturbed him — especially since he was half Trinidadian. “This is not how I envisaged the Caribbean functioning,” he recalled.
Brancker takes a much broader view of Caribbean and global popular music. “I can understand the idea that the grass is greener on the other side, and when you are not in that space something can seem more attractive than it is … you begin to take [familiar things] for granted.
“But, in terms of the artistic contribution of Caribbean people to the world,” he emphasises, “I can’t think of another group of people who have done more per capita for music on the planet than us. It is a shame that we tend to view ourselves still as less than.”
That said, he does not discount his 12 years in Roberta Flack’s live touring band (2005–17) — the last three as associate musical director — nor his tenure with Eddy Grant who, Brancker says, was “unapologetically Caribbean, but still African in substance”. It greatly impacted Brancker’s world view, and his evolution as an artist.
Brancker’s focus now is on live performance, and he’s looking to establish “a more year-round, artistically sustainable mode of expression” with his new Nicholas Brancker Band. His Uplift: a Caribbean Fusion Concert last March is a recent example. With a goal of touring in the future, they’re looking at collaborations with small orchestras in Europe.
He’s also invested in fostering younger generations — helping them develop better knowledge of self, of history, and of their craft, their instrument(s), and their context in the world.
“I take my musical gifts very seriously. The older I get, the more important it becomes to see a sense of strength and confidence and awareness of position in younger musicians,” he says. “They do not stand with their chest up in international environments. They don’t respect themselves in that way, because they feel that somebody else is better than them … But all that is different is the taste, not the standard of execution.”
Unsurprisingly, it’s important for him to help younger artists understand that what Caribbean musicians bring can’t be duplicated by others. It’s about authenticity, for Brancker: a belief reinforced by a lifetime of international experience and a sensibility rooted in the Caribbean.
“You can only have influence artistically if you are authentic. I cannot assess positively anybody who carbon copies anything. The more varied your experiences are, the more you can bring to bear on what you are doing,” Brancker says. “The other thing is we need more voices in music creation in the English-speaking Caribbean … We limit ourselves, and I would like to think my voice has a value, and gives a wider breadth of what our expression can be.”
This is not arrogance, but confidence. With an award-winning and commercially significant body of work, Nicholas Bracker is still composing and performing new music, and developing and mentoring a new cadre of young musicians. He is a legacy-maker in his own time. Soca music is now Caribbean music, and we can thank Brancker for that. n
The Nicholas Brancker Band performs in Barbados at their Uplift: a Caribbean Fusion Concert on Easter Sunday, 2024
Lowlands Mall, Tobago
Lowlands Mall, Tobago
Piarco Plaza, Trinidad #15 Ariapita Ave, Trinidad
Piarco Plaza, Trinidad #15 Ariapita Ave, Trinidad
Duncan Village, South Trinidad
Duncan Village, South Trinidad
Hearthland Plaza, Central Trinidad
Hearthland Plaza, Central Trinidad
“I WANTED US TO FEEL MORE
CONNECTED TO OURSELVES”
Milestones are strange things. With social media, numbers become paramount. You see them grow and you think, “Boy, when I make this number of followers, I’ve made it!” Or, “Oh look! This celebrity follows the page.” Yes, these things do feel good, but I feel like milestones for Know Your Caribbean (KYC) come with the community impact we make — doing live events, creating tangible experiences. This is where I feel like we are doing something right.
As the daughter of St Lucia’s first prime minister (and national hero) Sir John Compton, I have been exposed to history my whole life. My childhood home is full of old maps, paintings, drawings and photos.
St Lucian artist, photographer, filmmaker, history buff, and know your caribbean founder Fiona Compton on growing up the child of a national hero, resisting social media traps, and making her own contribution to Caribbean history — as told to Shelly-Ann Inniss
Photography courtesy Fiona Comption
I never took those things on as a child. I dropped history in form three because I truly hated it! History only came to me through my photography practice.
I grew tired of just taking “pretty” pictures. I wanted to tell a story in every image I presented, and through that, I wanted to dig deeper. I started to learn things, and even feel cheated — like, how could I not know this?
At this same time, my mum — who, like most Caribbean parents, is not very tech savvy but loves history — would ask me to bid on old postcards on eBay. They were stunning images from our past. Photographs from over a century ago: how we dressed, how our streets looked, the details of our jewellery … there was so much in one image, and I became fascinated.
Right Fiona represents her kwéyòl heritage
Below A young Fiona with her sisters and mother opposite page The Nèg gwo Siwo mas tradition at martinique’s carnival
When KYC was created, some of the content that I shared could be triggering and painful. I would share things focused on dates and historical facts, yet paid little attention to the human story, the emotion behind things. I presented things in a very basic, copy and paste kind of way, and didn’t consider my audience enough.
Over time, the deeper I got into things, I focused less on dates and facts and more on how stories make us feel. This is where things began to change and grow. Our history is emotional, because this is what we come from.
I see a lot of pages sharing triggering content to be provocative, and for their audience to be reactive, rather than to grow and connect, but I didn’t want that. I wanted us to thrive and feel more connected to ourselves, even when the stories are hard.
There was no formula for the journey of KYC from the initial idea to the powerful force it has become. I followed things that lit up my spirit with excitement in learning something new, and looking for a cool way to tell that story.
I like doing different things like overlaying text from the 1700s with a current piece of dancehall music to connect the dots. I speak with my Caribbean vernacular in my posts. I don’t just cover the larger countries either. What about Saba? Nevis? Marie Galante? Let’s talk about all of them.
i see a lot of pages sharing triggering content to be provocative, and for their audience to be reactive, rather than to grow and connect
The comments section, I think, is the best part of KYC, as this is where the community meets and connects. Academia has an air of elitism that alienates the average person. Museums and institutions have a big disconnect with the people, and I wish many more barriers would come down to allow space for those who are genuinely interested in learning.
It would be humbling to know if we have made an impact in Caribbean schools. I would love to see if they could take things from an emotive approach — not just the dates, facts and figures — while understanding that our history with slavery is much more complicated than Black versus White.
The hardest pill to swallow was learning about certain Maroon communities that were contracted by Europeans to capture enslaved people who ran away and sell them back into slavery. That one was tough.
Of course, I have read about a lot of the violence in our Caribbean lineages, and the unimaginable brutality we carry in our DNA. Scientists say we carry trauma going back seven generations, so understanding the extreme pain we carry with us, and knowing the details, has been hard.
I got to tell one of our more difficult stories in a way that honoured those who endured it at The World Reimagined [a national art education project in the United Kingdom about the transatlantic slave trade] — an amazing experience. I made a public art piece with the globe covered in peacock flowers. These were used by enslaved women to end their pregnancies, as they did not want their children to endure the life they did.
The globe was placed in front of a church in Liverpool — built with money from slavery — for
academia has an air of elitism that alienates the average person
several weeks. It was then placed in London’s Trafalgar Square [one of the iconic “emblems of empire”]. To be able to have the names of enslaved people executed for poisoning their enslavers written in gold leaf across the globe, and to have their names read, meant a lot to me and to many.
We need to talk more about reparations. What it means for us, and what we can do about it. With campaigns like Repair [working for reparatory justice in the Caribbean, guided by the CARICOM Reparations Commission], we are finding out what has been happening on the ground with those who have been putting in the work, whilst finding out about existing and upcoming reparative justice funds that are becoming available.
The Repair Campaign is necessary [because] most of us believe we should be compensated in the same way enslavers were when slavery ended, yet we don’t know where to start, how much we are owed, and how to make sure the moment is not lost.
The future goals of KYC are big — a book, and international television are high on the list. I want everything to be bold and authentic, where we can sit back and feel good that we are represented in the right way.
We will be pushing our show Tryin’ A Ting this year My friend Sherween and I will try to cook something we’ve never done before, [and with] local and healthy ingredients. We have shot in three countries, and we are hoping to shoot in more so that we can celebrate the full diversity of Caribbean cuisine and culture. We aim to visit every Caribbean country to try a ting!
Our history is so vast, and I just want to encourage everyone to fall back in love with ourselves and our culture. Most of the time when I share something, it’s because I just found out myself. So, I am on this journey of discovery just like everyone else.
If we can encourage even more Caribbean pride, [showcasing] that we have a history to be proud of, not ashamed of, as we are serious survivors — I would be happy! n
AN ARMY OF ONE
There are heroic turtle conservation efforts across the Caribbean, often started and sustained by indomitable individuals who embody the idea of being the change they want to see. And in Nevis, writes Caroline Taylor, that quiet hero is Lemuel “Lemme” Pemberton
You can forget how powerful the light of the moon is until you’re on a deserted beach — far from any man-made light pollution, beneath a partially cloudy sky on a full moon night. The visibility changes profoundly with each passing cloud: in one moment, near total darkness; in the next, the rocks and trees and ocean waves begin to regain shape and form.
On one such night, I’m walking along Jones Bay beach — on the northwest coast of Nevis — with (or, really, nearly sprinting behind) Lemuel “Lemme” Pemberton, founder of the Nevis Turtle Group (NTG). Some of those passing clouds have born some rain, so the sand on the beach is saturated, and the tree branches still water-laden as we use the moon and our red-light torches to find our way.
Lemme and the two NTG team members out with him that night are checking the beach for sea turtle tracks, and inspecting nests they’ve previously marked to see which have successfully produced hatchlings.
Lemme works fast, sussing out previously marked nests, and catching sight of turtle tracks (almost instantly identifying which species made them) and any new nests they’ve laid — even under this intermittent moonlight.
He works so fast that, as I try to jot everything down on a clipboard that records nesting data, I don’t even realise we’re standing beneath a manchineel tree until some rainwater drips onto my wrist, blistering the skin. I’d long known toxins in the leaves, bark, and fruit of the tree are so potent that even a small amount in rainwater will do that. So, I blame the moon. Or maybe the clouds. Or maybe just my own slowness relative to Lemme’s staggering speed.
But, good news as I rinse my wrist: the nest he’s just excavated was highly successful, with 95% of eggs having hatched. He’s counted 103 shells, plus just a few others that didn’t hatch. This is a good number for a hawksbill nest, which can fall below 90 successful hatchlings if the conditions are unfavourable.
We check several more nests before Lemme directs us back to the car so that we can head to Lovers Beach on the north coast. Through sea turtle nesting season (March–September, with hatchlings generally emerging between September and November), Nevis sees leatherback, green, and hawksbill turtles — all of which are endangered. The NTG monitors as many beaches as their resources permit.
As we navigate the uneven terrain at Lovers Beach, Lemme tells me how much erosion the beach has experienced in recent years, having lost more than 300 feet. The loss of nesting area is one of many pressures sea turtles face across the Caribbean. Sargassum seaweed is another, and there is a lot on this beach.
With the lights of southern St Kitts flickering in the distance from across the bay, we stop at some rocks demarcating the end of the beach to see if we can spot any turtles come up under the moonlight. Lemme confirms there’s been recent nesting activity by both hawksbills and green turtles here.
of the sea that my only thought is how difficult these night patrols are for volunteers across the region. On my last turtle tour — in Matura, Trinidad — the guide was quite ill, her body run ragged from the long nights and often being at the mercy of the elements.
I mention this to Lemme, and discover that his wife is from Trinidad like me. I laugh. And, of course, he knows all the regional turtle conservationists I’ve met over the years. We are all so much more interconnected than we often imagine, as I’m reminded on this Nevis trip.
Even one of the boat attendants on my ride over from St Kitts was Guyanese. Once he realised I was Trini, we enjoyed a good laugh (and a lot of playful banter) about the Guyana Amazon Warriors having just defeated the Trinbago Knight Riders in the Caribbean Premier League T20 cricket finals a few nights before.
in nevis — with a population of just over 11,000 — Lemme, in many ways, is an army of one … or, perhaps more aptly, the general of a small, guerrilla army
It’s late in the season when I visit in late September, so I know the chance of spotting one is slim. But I hold out faint hope, as I’ve seen leatherbacks and hawksbills nest many times, but never a green turtle.
The beach grows dark as another cloud passes — this time, bringing rain. I’m anything but dressed for it, but sufficiently caught up in conversation with Lemme and the hypnotic sound
In Nevis — with a population of just over 11,000 — Lemme, in many ways, is an army of one … or, perhaps more aptly, the general of a small, guerrilla army. During high season, he says he’ll have maybe four to six people volunteering — but never all on the same night. He’ll often pick them up and drop them back home every evening. But there are times during low season where it’s just him.
It’s gruelling, often thankless, work that he’s been courageously undertaking for more than two decades. He’s typically out seven days a week right through nesting season — sometimes nights, sometimes days.
green turtle tracks are observed on the shore
It was a natural resource management course at the University of the West Indies, Cave Hill (Barbados) that first sparked Lemme’s interest in turtle conservation. Upon returning to Nevis in 2001, he was intent on learning which beaches turtles nested on in Nevis, and in what numbers.
He was working at Nevis’ Department of Fisheries at the time, and convinced four of his colleagues to join him. They saw a hawksbill on the first night — on this same Lovers Bay — and the NTG, formally founded in 2003, was born.
In the first year, they counted 12 turtles, and as many as 67 in ensuing years. These were the days where funding enabled them to incrementally build out a robust team and increase their patrols. Though they’ve lost some people in the intervening
years — some moved abroad, or went away to study, or got married and had kids — the NTG was making real, meaningful progress.
Lemme and his team completed different kinds of training in Antigua, Trinidad, and with other turtle conservation organisations. Poaching of turtle eggs and the turtles themselves decreased significantly. Awareness and education programmes in schools and communities were successfully changing perspectives on the value of turtles.
“The young people become the adults,” Lemme explains, “and they grew up with an idea of protecting turtles as opposed to the idea of eating them.”
Two of the NTG’s longest-running partners have supported that work: the Florida-based Sea Turtle Conservancy (STC) — the world’s oldest sea turtle conservation group; and the Four Seasons Resort Nevis (FSRN), which funds a tracking programme and various educational activities during their annual Sea Turtle Week (19–23 July for 2024).
The STC’s partnership with the FSRN goes back nearly 20 years, starting when David Godfrey, Executive Director of the STC, got a call after a sea turtle had nested right in front of the resort — captivating guests.
Above lemuel Pemberton interacting with school children as part of the Public Education & Outreach Sea Turtle Quiz Left A sea turtle in the survey programme
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But when the hatchlings finally emerged in the middle of the night, the fluorescent lighting at the resort disoriented them, sending them in the wrong direction so that they landed up in one of the resort pools. Many hatchlings died, or got lost in the surrounding vegetation.
It was a turning point for the FSRN, who requested the STC’s help to ensure this never happened again. The first step was changing the resort’s lighting, and training the staff about sea turtles. In the process, they explored partnership opportunities to have a broader educational impact.
The STC was already running a satellite tracking programme to learn more about turtle migration, so the FSRN came on board as a research partner — funding two satellite trackers for nesting turtles on Nevis.
Each July, during Sea Turtle Week, the two organisations work with NTG to locate turtles, apply the trackers, then release the turtles back into the sea at Pinney’s Beach (where the FSRN is located, with the iconic Nevis Peak in the background). The turtles then become part of the STC’s annual Tour de Turtles (a mock race where the turtle that covers the greatest distance — which is trackable online — “wins”).
“Unless somebody sees one with a tag on it or it washes up dead somewhere, we don’t really know where our turtles go to,” Lemme explains. “But with the transmitters, we have an idea where they go. We had one go as far south as Grenada. One
nested here then showed up in Barbados the next year. We had one caught in Nicaragua. The two from 2023 showed up in The Bahamas and in the Dominican Republic.”
The team at the FSRN also sees the intrinsic value of different kinds of organisations like these working together to bring incremental but meaningful change.
“We love partnering with them,” explains Mitchell Nover, the resort’s Director of Public Relations & Communication. “It’s important for us that, as you experience Nevis — such a small island, really not overrun with any mass tourism — that we help protect it as much as possible because that’s such a big part of what makes the island so special. To also provide a unique experience for our guests is kind of the icing on the cake, right?”
The pandemic, however, stymied the progress the NTG was making, impacting their most precious resources — manpower and funding. They’d previously been able to offer a modest stipend to volunteers, but that became impossible when funding levels fell.
The STC provides support where it can. “I have such respect for Lemme and his team, and all the work it takes,” says David. “So we provide financial support to the group every year and subsidise training, because the data they’re collecting is vital … They’re the ones on the ground gathering that data meticulously.”
And though all their committed volunteers are welcome and invaluable — as are their long-term partners — what NTG most needs now is funding to continue their work. Leatherback numbers have fallen, though Lemme is unsure whether that’s because of all the pressures on the endangered species, or if it’s just a data problem because of limited patrols. And St Kitts & Nevis still runs an open season on turtle hunting — something that the NTG is, of course, lobbying to circumscribe, or end completely.
Still, Lemme presses on — a living embodiment of that old maxim, “If not me, then who?” Hopefully, potential new partners and funders will ask themselves the same question. n
the four seasons resort nevis (fourseasons.com/nevis/ ) generously provided hosting in support of this piece. to learn more about or donate to the nevis turtle group, visit nevisturtlegroup.org
ABOUT THAT SAHARA DUST…
Are we getting more of it than we had been in decades past? Will we get more of it with climate change? What are the impacts on the environment, humans, and wildlife? And how has Barbados become a hub for this kind of atmospheric research? Erline Andrews investigates
Ragged Point, on the east coast of Barbados, is best known for its 19th century lighthouse, steep cliffs, and opportunities to hike and fish. But it’s also become the hub of groundbreaking scientific research that can make a meaningful impact on public health and how we approach climate change.
In 1966, researchers from the University of Miami established the Barbados Atmospheric Chemistry Observatory (BACO) at Ragged Point. Set up to study Sahara dust, it was the first of its kind and the reason we know as much as we do today about the phenomenon.
As many in the region know, every year — peaking between June and August — large plumes of dust and other particles from the Sahel region in Africa travel 5,000 miles by wind to the Americas.
Everything in the atmosphere — dust and other particles, clouds, gases, radiation from the sun — impact each other. Together, they in turn impact the atmosphere, weather, and climate, so that they’re best studied together. As a result, other significant meteorological facilities were set up at or near Ragged Point by research and education organisations around the world.
In 1978, the University of Bristol, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), and other organisations established the Advanced Global Atmospheric Gases Experiment (AGAGE) as part of a network of global facilities to monitor harmful greenhouse gases.
Then in 2010, the Hamburg-based Max Planck Institute for Meteorology founded the Barbados Cloud Observatory.
And last September, the United States Naval Research Laboratory (NRL) announced the completion of the first phase of the BACO-based Moisture & Aerosol Gradients/Physics of Inversion Evolution (MAGPIE) programme, the
Envisat captures sand and dust from the Sahara Desert blowing across the Atlantic Ocean
Sea spray lingers at
aim of which is “to study the exchange processes of heat, moisture, African dust, and sea spray between the atmosphere and ocean over the Subtropical Atlantic Ocean.” The programme will use research aircraft, satellite remote sensing courtesy NASA, and lidar/laser and radar technology.
BACO’s compound already had a sun photometer, which gives aerosol optical depth (AOD) — a measurement of how much dust there is in the atmosphere. The photometer is part of NASA’s Aerosol Robotic Network (Aeronet), which measures AOD around the world.
All of this has made Barbados a key location for atmospheric science.
“Barbados and Ragged Point provide a unique source of information on
us-based researchers have found that serious sahara dust outbreaks in the caribbean have increased by 10% since 1981 — and that the dust is contributing to drought in the caribbean
the intercontinental transport of materials from Africa,” explains Professor Joseph Prospero of the University of Miami, the research pioneer who founded BACO.
“Africa emits between 50% and 70% of the total dust emissions to the global atmosphere. Much of this is carried westward across the Atlantic, where it impacts the Caribbean Basin and the bordering land masses — the southern United States, Central America, and northern South America. Barbados happens to lie directly in the major summer transport path.”
Barbados is also the site of the Caribbean Institute of Meteorology & Hydrology (CIMH) — an arm of CARICOM, and the main body for meteorological education and research in the region. Established in 1967, the CIMH worked with the Max Planck Institute to establish the Cloud Observatory, which is comanaged by the two institutions.
Dr Andrea Sealy — a meteorologist and lecturer at the CIMH who studied at Howard University and other institutions in the United States before returning to Barbados in 2008 — is the foremost expert on Sahara dust in the English-speaking Caribbean.
“Just before I returned to Barbados, I worked at the National Centre for Atmospheric Research and worked on some climate and dust modelling,” she says. “That piqued my interest in studying Sahara dust, [as did] the fact that Barbados is home to the longest running dust record … In the Caribbean, there was a void in terms of Sahara dust and air quality work in general, [so] I decided to run with it, and have not regretted it.”
Left
Ragged Point, on Barbados’ east coast, as the sun sets Below Satellite imagery of Sahara dust over the Atlantic
The Sahara dust plumes bring to the Americas important nutrients for the soil and ocean, but it’s an annoyance and even a danger for people with respiratory ailments or sensitives. It may be causing asthma, and some research has found it increases cases of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD). It reduces visibility on the roads and in the sky, and can cause the air quality in the Caribbean to be as bad as major industrialised cities. And things may be getting worse.
“Generally, what we have been seeing in recent years is that we’ve been getting more intense dust episodes earlier in the year and going into the summer,” said Dr Sealy during an online presentation in April that was part of Columbia University’s Caribbean Climate & Health Responders course.
among new equipment is an instrument that will measure trace metals in the atmosphere, which could help researchers figure out why cases of paediatric asthma are so high in barbados and other parts of the eastern caribbean
In June 2020, what was called the “Godzilla dust event” roiled the Caribbean and parts of the US for more than a week. It was the biggest such occurrence in decades. The air quality index in Trinidad & Tobago registered close to the highest value of 500, within the range that’s deemed hazardous.
US-based researchers have found that serious Sahara dust outbreaks in the Caribbean have increased by 10% since 1981 — and that the dust is contributing to drought in the Caribbean.
Scientists aren’t sure what caused the “Godzilla event”.
“It is possible we will have more intense dust episodes occurring,” Dr Sealy told Caribbean Beat. “However, because of the uncertainty in climate prediction for the source regions in North Africa, there is still debate on how ‘dusty’ the future climate will be.
“So even though increased anthropogenic activity should cause more desertification and more dust lifted into the atmosphere to be transported,” she explained, “there is still uncertainty. For example, NASA published a study where they predict at least a 30% reduction in Saharan dust activity from current levels over the next 20–50 years, and a continued decline beyond that.”
Dr Sealy and other researchers are working to improve forecasting systems to warn people days in advance of impending dust events and about their severity. This is part of her work as chair of the Pan-American node for the World Meteorological Organisation’s Sand & Dust Storms Warning Advisory & Assessment System (SDS-WAS) — set up in 2007 to boost early warning efforts.
CIMH aims to be the forecasting centre for the Pan-American region, and the BACO site was recently upgraded with a new tower — from which will be hung the all-important filters that have been used for almost six decades to capture the dust that will be studied.
Among new equipment is an instrument that will measure trace metals in the atmosphere, which could help researchers figure out why cases of paediatric asthma are so high in Barbados and other parts of the eastern Caribbean.
In reflecting how far the Ragged Point facility has come, Professor Prospero said: “It has been a long struggle to persuade people of the importance of this work. But it is now recognised as a critical component in understanding the direction and impact of climate change.” n
Tropical storm Chris, the remnants of hurricane Beryl, and more Sahara dust over the Atlantic in 2018
THE PENN CONNECTION
The life and accomplishments of William Penn Jr are well documented, with his monumental role in early American history. His father, however, is less known and far more controversial, but had a significant impact on the British colonial ambitions in the Caribbean — especially Jamaica. James Ferguson learns more
Just under 1600 miles apart, the American state of Pennsylvania and the Caribbean island of Jamaica might seem to have little in common. Some Pennsylvanians visit Jamaica for some winter sun, and a sizable number of people of Jamaican origin have settled in and around Philadelphia.
Yet their historical and cultural trajectories seem largely different — except for an unlikely family connection. Both had their histories irreversibly altered by the activities of two men, father and son, who shared the same name: William Penn.
William Penn junior — a Quaker, pacifist, and supporter of religious freedom — founded the colony of Philadelphia, later the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, in 1682 during English colonial rule. It would play a key role in the activities of America’s founding fathers, the Revolutionary War, and ensuing independence.
Penn is commemorated in the state’s name, a top-ranking university, and a brand of breakfast oats. And although his reputation is not untarnished (partly because of his attitude towards slavery), he is remembered for a principled struggle against the religious and political establishment in London.
Penn senior was an altogether less admirable character than his son, but he was to leave an equally lasting legacy in Jamaica — even if it happened almost by accident. He was born in 1621 in Bristol, and was quickly attracted to a naval career, serving as a rear admiral during the English Civil War on the side of the anti-monarchist Parliamentarians.
In a revealing episode in 1648, however, he was arrested on suspicion of communicating with King Charles I, but was exonerated. He then fought in the First Anglo-Dutch War of 1652–54, with the rank of vice admiral.
But again his royalist sympathies seem to have surfaced when, early in 1654, he is said to have offered to turn the fleet he commanded over to the exiled Charles II (Charles I having been executed in 1649).
Despite such signs of disloyalty, it appears that Oliver Cromwell, who had overseen Charles I’s execution, saw Penn as a suitable candidate to lead his “Western Design” — an audacious plan to attack the economic and strategic power of Catholic Spain in its first possession in the Americas: the Caribbean territory of Santo Domingo, today’s Dominican Republic.
The Lord Protector believed that weakening the Spanish Empire by disrupting its trade routes would reduce the chances of Charles II claiming the throne with Spanish assistance. He also thought that the acquisition of a further colony in the Caribbean (Barbados and four smaller islands were already in English hands) would be useful as a faraway place to which political dissidents could be sent. He appointed Admiral Penn as commander on 18 August, 1654 — 370 years ago.
Cromwell also decided that Penn’s leadership of this expedition would be shared with General Robert Venables, a loyal army veteran, supported by two civilian administrators.
It was a decision that Cromwell would later regret, but it also suggests that he harboured doubts over the reliability of Admiral Penn.
The expedition — numbering 38 ships and 2,500 poorly trained troops — set sail in December that year. Two months were spent in Barbados forcibly recruiting a further 3,500 men, before the task force approached the island of Hispaniola — which Santo Domingo shared with French Saint-Domingue — on 13 April, 1655.
Unfortunately for Penn and Venables, the Spanish were entirely aware of their intentions (alerted by royalist spies), and had brought in reinforcements from the South American mainland. Some of Venables’ troops were taken ashore, marched through hot and mosquito-ridden terrain, ambushed by Spanish guerrillas, and quickly routed.
Penn — who had remained aboard his ship — reluctantly agreed to evacuate the demoralised survivors, derided by Venables himself as “a rascally rabble”. By now the two men were barely on speaking terms.
It was a fiasco, but both commanders agreed on one thing: that they were unwilling to return to England — and to the unforgiving Cromwell — empty handed. If Santo Domingo was too well defended, Venables reasoned, perhaps they could try their luck 450 miles to the west, in a smaller island known to the Spanish as Santiago (present day Jamaica).
Penn was opposed to the plan, but he was ignored. A week later, on 9 May, the English fleet was off the coast of Jamaica, and 10 days later the outnumbered Spanish garrison surrendered to the same troops who had fled from Santo Domingo.
If the original target had proved unexpectedly difficult to achieve, the second was surprisingly easy. The Spanish governor offered some resistance,
but he had few resources at his disposal, and the Spanish colonists decided to free their slaves — who promptly escaped into Jamaica’s impenetrable mountains.
So began England’s (and then Britain’s) long colonial relationship with Jamaica, which formally ended on 6 August, 1962, with the island’s independence.
The first English colonists suffered from disease, food shortages, and occasional attacks — both from Spaniards who had refused to leave the island and from the formerly enslaved.
But a feared counter-invasion never materialised, and gradually the British built up their economic and military presence in Jamaica. The territory was officially ceded by Spain to Britain in the 1670 Treaty of Madrid and, over 150 years, became one of the Caribbean’s most profitable sugar-producing colonies.
As for the warring Venables and Penn, their careers took differing directions. Penn sailed for England in June 1655 — hoping to arrive before his competitor, who was hot on his heels. Both men were arrested, though — accused of desertion, and confined in the Tower of London.
According to Cromwell, they had no orders to return to London, and had failed in their mission. They were soon released, but Venables’ military days
Left A painting depicts the arrival of William Penn, Jr in what would become Pennsylvania opposite page Portrait of William Penn, Sr
were over. He retired to his estate in Cheshire to write a successful book on angling.
William Penn senior remained in public life, being elected as a member of parliament for Weymouth in 1660, and present at the return to England that year of Charles II. Having served under Cromwell’s Protectorate, he was happier to support the Restoration and was keen to ingratiate himself with the new regime. He was also very wealthy, and lent a large sum of money to Charles II.
His neighbour in London — the diarist Samuel Pepys — was obviously not an admirer, referring to the retired admiral as “a false knave”. For a time, they worked in the same Naval Board office, and Pepys’ 5 April, 1666 diary reads: “To the office, where the falsenesse and impertinencies of Sir W. Pen would make a man mad to think of.”
Admiral Penn died in September 1670. This was the year that his son was arrested in London for “unlawful assemble”. William Penn junior had been preaching to a crowd at a Quaker street meeting, thereby illegally challenging the supremacy of the Church of England.
He was eventually released, and seven years later sailed to America. There, he settled in a forested area near New Jersey which he called Sylvania. This land was granted to him by Charles II in settlement of the unpaid loan owing to his late father. But the king also insisted that the land be named Pennsylvania in honour of his benefactor.
William Penn senior had strongly disapproved of his son’s radical religious views, and ironically it was in honour of the adventuring father rather than the devout son that the American state that acted as the cradle of Quakerism was named. n
Ponce, Puerto Rico
Puerto Rico’s “Pearl of the South”, the island’s second-largest city, is a cultural and architectural treasure — and home to some of the best ice cream you’ll ever try
Streetscape
The municipality of Ponce sprawls from the southern coastal plain of Puerto Rico up to the heights of the Cordillera Central. But the city’s historic centre, two and a half miles inland from the Caribbean Sea, is the Plaza de las Delicias, with its shady trees and gushing Lions Fountain. Surrounding the plaza are Ponce’s City Hall, its wedding-cake cathedral, the Art Deco Teatro Fox Delicias, and other buildings showing off the
diverse styles that make Ponce an architecture lover’s delight: from neoclassical to Art Nouveau to the distinctive vernacular Ponce Creole.
The city’s protected historic zone falls within the six numbered central barrios: Primero to Sexto. The best views of Ponce are from the sky bridge of the Cruceta del Vigía, a crossshaped monument, 100 feet tall, on a hill just north of the city centre, once used as a defensive lookout.
Longing for some sea air? The La Guancha Boardwalk in the Playa barrio offers numerous food and drink vendors, an observation tower, a marina, and Ponce’s main beach is close at hand.
Trivia
Ponce isn’t just the city of museums — its several nicknames capture various other aspects of its history and geography: from la Perla del sur (“the Pearl of the South”) to ciudad de las Quenepas (“City of Genips”), thanks to its many trees bearing the small green fruit, and even ciudad de los Leones (“City of Lions”), from the name of its founder.
Culture
Ponce isn’t called “the City of Museums” for nothing. Its dozens of historical and cultural institutions rival the riches of San Juan and make Ponce a magnet for arts lovers. Heading the list is the Museo de Arte de Ponce, the largest art museum in the Caribbean, housed in a landmark building designed by the American modernist architect Edward Durrell Stone. Its treasures include everything from European Old Master paintings to one of the best PreRaphaelite collections in the world, to works by contemporary Latin American artists.
The city’s history, meanwhile, is documented in the Museo Castillo Serrallés, the former mansion of a sugar baron, and the Hacienda Buena Vista, a historic coffee estate on Ponce’s outskirts. And the most immediately recognisable landmark is the Parque de Bombas, a former fire station, its ornate façade painted in red and black stripes. Now a firefighting museum, it is home to a collection of 19th-century artifacts as well as displays paying tribute to the brave firemen who saved the city from devastation in an 1899 conflagration that started in the gunpowder-laden city armoury.
Appetite
Ice cream is as popular in Ponce as in any tropical city, and the lines are longest at the unassuming-looking King Cream parlour (also known as Los Chinos), a longtime mainstay serving gelato-style treats — the best in Puerto Rico, locals claim. Fans recommend the flavours derived from locally grown fruits like parcha (passionfruit) and guanabana (soursop), and the coconut ice cream is a must-try.
History
Several archaeological sites within the Ponce city limits preserve remains of the indigenous Taíno who once flourished here on Puerto Rico’s Caribbean coast. After the arrival of Spanish conquistador Juan Ponce de León in 1508, San Juan on the north coast became the main centre of colonial power. It was Ponce’s grandson Juan Ponce de León y Loayza who led the Spanish settlement of the region around Rio Portugués, which flows just east of the city’s modern centre.
Recognised as a parish in 1692, Ponce grew slowly until the 19th century, when the revolutions in Haiti and Spanish South America triggered a wave of immigration. This new class of farmers and merchants set up agricultural estates, rum distilleries, banks and factories, and by the end of the 19th century Ponce was Puerto Rico’s leading city and economic capital, with a ruling class willing to lavish their money on monuments and mansions.
But the 1898 invasion by the United States began a long period of decline, as the new colonial authorities centred administration and commerce in San Juan, and the Spanish American War cut Ponce’s traders off from their markets in Spain and Cuba. Ponce continued to be an important political base, and in recent decades its economy has improved, while the city’s historic and architectural heritage have attracted a growing number of tourists.
Co-ordinates
18.0° N 66.6° W
50 feet above sea level
PuERTo RICo
Ponce
TRAVEL WITH A DIFFERENCE
The Caribbean, like many popular tourist destinations, will greatly benefit from more sustainable travel that makes a positive impact on local communities, economies, and the natural environment. Blogger and environmental advocate Malou Morgan shares her insights with Shelly-Ann Inniss
Why is sustainable travel important to you?
My family, in one way or another, has always been involved in the tourism sector. To say that travel and tourism are in my blood is an understatement. However, I truly believe the old models of tourism are not sustainable, and there’s great potential in reshaping our tourism models to have a greater, more positive impact on our communities.
I think it’s important that we, as Caribbean people, make concerted efforts toward more meaningful travel practices, and work together to determine what our future tourism products look like. I love my home, I love the Caribbean region, and I want to see all of our people thrive.
What are some ways tourists can travel sustainably?
Small steps and more responsible choices can make a big difference:
• Research where you are going, so that you have an understanding of the culture, local customs and laws
• Support local businesses. Staying at a local hotel, for example, benefits the local community more than staying at an internationally-owned chain. Studies have shown that up to 80% of money earned through tourism in the Caribbean doesn’t end up staying in the host country
• Protect the environment. Enjoy ethical animal encounters that observe animals in their natural habitat, like whale-watching, from a safe distance.
do you think caribbean nations have an advantage over others regarding sustainability?
Sustainable living used to be the norm in the Caribbean. We used what we had available to us, we were resourceful, and we took better care of our communities and environment. Since sustainability can take many forms, I think it’s important for us to view sustainable tourism as an umbrella for all variations of travel, rather than a niche within the travel industry.
Now is a good time for the stakeholders of small island destinations to build resilience via the principles and practices of the circular economy instead of the traditional linear economic model, in which resources are taken, used, and discarded.
Sustainable tourism development requires the informed participation of all relevant stakeholders, as well as strong political leadership, to ensure wide participation and consensus-building. n
Malou is passionate about caribbean culture, slow food, mindful living, and social good. you can follow her on Instagram @skiptomalouuu or visit skiptomalouuu.com
Above Aerial of grenada’s countryside
Below A little boy displays a starfish caught while snorkelling in Caye Caulker, Belize opposite page malou morgan
Across
1 Relating to a city [12]
6 Sovereign, lord [5]
7 Division of (large) world land surface [9]
8 Disorganised and lacking concentration [14]
10 Guyana’s latest export [3]
11 Living beings [9]
13 Most talkative [9]
15 To swoosh down a hill [3]
16 You probably raise your arms applying this [14]
19 Singers [9]
20 Fruit stand selection [5]
21 Single lady [12]
Down
1 Progress markers [10]
2 Sock destroyer, maybe [7]
3 Relating to appetite or desire [7]
4 Some beach cabins [4]
5 Break, time off [6]
7 For the present, having electricity [7]
9 Defiant action [10]
12 Luxurious locks [7]
13 Dog, or type of tooth [6]
Spot the Difference by James hackett
14 Hedge cutter [7]
15 Some night skies [7]
17 “What on ___?” [5]
18 It’s surrounded by water [4]
There are 10 differences between these two pictures. how many can you spot?
Spot the Difference answers
Word Search
phantom power athlete discipline
Usain Bolt vacation unapologetic climate control carbon footprint Olympics
Fill the empty square with numbers from 1 to 9 so that each row, each column, and each 3x3 box contains all of the numbers from 1 to 9. For the mini sudoku use numbers from 1 to 6.
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Susan Smith
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GRAND CAYMAN
Dominica
Curacao
Ogle
Caracas
St Kitts
Fort Lauderdale
hat-tricks
Lying on a narrow strip along the coast of Westmoreland’s westernmost tip (try saying that 10 times fast!), Negril is “irie” Jamaica at its best — and the ever-popular, ever-buzzing, ever-beautiful Seven Mile Beach is one of its star attractions. Teeming with bars, restaurants, souvenir stalls, music, watersports, and colourful vendors like this one (who’s effortlessly balancing numerous hats both on his head and in his hands), it isn’t just a cherished spot for sun-bathing and frolicking in the water, but one of the best places on the island to witness breathtaking, pictureperfect sunsets. Sun, sea, and sunsets: that’s our kind of hat-trick!
Photo: Debbie Ann Powell/ Shutterstock.com
LET THE RHYTHM OF JAMAICA BRING YOU BACK TO WHERE YOUR HEART BELONGS.
