Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2016 | 25th anniversary edition by MEP Caribbean Publishers

TRINIDAD Contents

th Anniversary

Welcome A message from the TDC

7 9

Rest, release, wine & dine Accommodation Spotlight: spas Food & dining Ariapita Avenue Nightlife & entertainment Arts & culture Shopping Festival calendar Carnival spotlight

10 14 16 22 24 26 34 36 40

Welcome

117

Rest & relax

Escape & explore Beach escapes by region Sightseeing by region Eco escapes (by land & sea) Land & water sports Crossword puzzle Advertiser listings

tobago Contents

48 53 71 78 81 83

Accommodation Weddings

118 124

Dining & entertainment What to eat & where to eat it Nightlife & entertainment Shopping

126 130 131

Explore

Maps

Visitor information

102

T&T Time Capsule

112

Calendar of Events

114

Beach escapes by region 132 Culture & festivals 136 Tours & adventures 142 Sightseeing by region 144 Eco escapes (by land and sea)148 Diving spotlight 149 Land and water sports 151 Puzzles 154 Advertiser listings 155

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th Anniversary

Welcome!

Come and discover trinidad!

his year, we at Discover mark 25 years (and 27 editions) of writing about the islands we love. As you discover these islands, we’re sure you’ll understand why. Here we introduce you to Trinidad; on page 117, we introduce Tobago.

Trinidad is one of the most distinctive islands in the Caribbean. It’s the regional hub for international business leaders, as well as foodies, culture lovers, naturalists, eco adventurers, shoppers and partiers — and all those looking for something beyond the Caribbean clichés. While there are more than enough beaches on which to soak up the sun, sea and sand, Trinidad is an immersive experience. There is never a shortage of adventures. Whether you’re diving into the heart of Carnival or other festivals; networking at international conferences; escaping into a natural world replete with staggering biodiversity per square mile; or sating your appetite on a world of distinctive cuisine, the call is the same: immerse yourself! Our 25th anniversary edition will guide your way, and in whatever format best suits you. Explore with a print copy, read us online, or download the digital replica to your favourite device via our mobile app. Just search for Discover Trinidad & Tobago in your device’s app store. Are you ready? Let’s go!

Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

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A message ]

from the Tourism Development Company (TDC) wo islands, two unique experiences at the southernmost end of the Caribbean archipelago. Trinidad may be fast-paced with a cosmopolitan flair while Tobago may be more relaxed and laid back; but when it comes to their amazing flora and fauna, these two islands go head to head, making destination Trinidad & Tobago an ecotourism paradise.

The destination’s latest sustainable tourism project, the Sustainable Eco-Tourism Trail, will enable visitors and nature enthusiasts to experience more of our islands’ fascinating natural beauty. Working with selected communities over the next five years, 1,000km of untouched landscape will be opened up, starting in the lush, mountainous rainforests of Blanchisseuse and Chaguaramas along the north coast of Trinidad. Visitors will have the opportunity to blaze new hiking and biking trails that showcase the unspoilt natural beauty and fascinating biodiversity of our destination. Eager walkers and biking enthusiasts will be able to experience exciting trails through the rainforest and along the stunning coastline, with lunch stops at different communities along the way, allowing them to enjoy the warmth and hospitality for which the people of Trinidad & Tobago are renowned. The Sustainable Eco-Tourism Trail will complement the dozens of other adventures available on the islands. Whether you’re into diving, snorkelling or stand-up paddling, hiking, rappelling or birding, Trinidad & Tobago is the place to enjoy the beauty of nature at its best. Allow us to welcome you to Trinidad & Tobago — “the true Caribbean”.

Credits Editor: Caroline Taylor Consulting editor: Jeremy Taylor Designer: Bridget van Dongen Consulting designer: Kevon Webster Business development & marketing: Helen Shair-Singh Research assistance: Regina Seabrun, Shelly-Ann Inniss, Hazel Mansing Production: Joanne Mendes, Jacqueline Smith General manager: Halcyon Salazar Cover (Trinidad): Playing tenor pan. photo courtesy TDC Cover (Tobago): Englishman’s Bay. photo by Chris Anderson A publication of Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. (MEP) 6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Trinidad & Tobago T: (868) 622-3821 • F: (868) 628-0639 E: info@discovertnt.com • W: discovertnt.com

Connect with us online: /discovertnt /meppublishers

ISSN 1680-6166 © 2015-16 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of the publisher.

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Accommodation: where to stay

International brand names Several upscale international chains are located around Port of Spain, and near the airport. Many are recently built or renovated, with full-service offerings — from WiFi and conference facilities to top-class restaurants and spas — that cater both to the needs of business travellers and to upscale leisure travellers (including locals planning a “staycation”). The Hyatt Regency Trinidad rises radiantly over the Port of Spain waterfront in the heart of downtown; the refurbished Radisson is just across the street. The Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre overlooks the iconic Queen’s Park Savannah, just north of the capital; and just west is the Courtyard by Marriott. Out near the airport is a Holiday Inn Express.

Sunset view from the Hilton over the Savannah. Photo courtesy the Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre

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Local stalwarts Stylish, full-service, independent hotels and conference centres are most abundant around Port of Spain and San Fernando, catering especially to international travellers doing business in those cities, as well as leisure travellers seeking a touch of luxury. Among them, the Kapok (Maraval), Cascadia Hotel & Conference Centre (Cascade), Tradewinds, Royal and Cara Suites (San Fernando) properties are always popular.

Photo courtesy Kapok Hotel

All rooms and suites are air conditioned and outfitted with modern facilities for your every comfort including internet access and direct dial telephone. Enjoy a meal at our restaurant which specialises in a variety of tasty Caribbean and International cuisine, or just sit back and relax at our bar and lounge or around our swimming pool. Our new building includes conference facilities as well as an ideal settingfor wedding receptions, cocktail parties and other special functions. Other facilities include our complimentary gym and business centre with email and internet access, ideally suited for business or vacation. We also offer special group and long term rates.

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Eco escapes: to the mountains & the sea Trinidad’s unique biodiversity attracts naturalists and adventure seekers from around the world, and there is eco-centred accommodation especially catering to them. Up in the Northern Range is the haven for birdwatchers: the Asa Wright Nature Centre* (north of Arima). Also popular are the Hacienda Jacana (Talparo); Pax Guesthouse* at Mt St Benedict (Tunapuna); Xanadu Resort (near Lopinot); the Playa Del Este Sanctuary (Salybia); Petrea Place at the Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust; and the Mt Plaisir, Le Grand Almandier* and Acajou properties near the nation’s turtle-watching capital, Grande Rivière. D’Coconut Cove Beach Resort on Manzanilla Beach specialises in turtle watching. (Read more about turtle watching in our Eco Escapes section).

TTTIC Properties which are part of the Trinidad & Tobago Tourism Industry Certification (TTTIC) programme have been audited by the Trinidad & Tobago Bureau of Standards (TTBS) to ensure that they offer high quality services that meet global standards. The most upto-date list can be found on the islands’ official tourism portals at gotrinidadandtobago.com and visittobago.gov.tt.

Located in one of the most convenient districts in Port of Spain. Everything on your doorstep, Carnival, cricket, embassies, a variety of restaurants, stadium, churches. Quick transportation. S elf-contained rooms and fully equipped studios apts. Swimming pool. We go the extra mile to ensure your comfort and safety.

Great Comfort, Unbeatable Service... Our Hallmarks! Tel: (868) 622-1480, 628-0050 email: theallamanda@yahoo.com www.theallamanda.com 61 Carlos Street, Woodbrook, Port of Spain, Trinidad, W.I.

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Guesthouses, B&Bs, self-catering apartments, & more Several properties affordably offer a more intimate setting without as many frills. Among the guesthouses, the Allamanda (Woodbrook), Culture Crossroads Inn (St James), ParMay-La’s and Forty Winks Inn (outskirts of Port of Spain), L’Orchidée Guesthouse* and Coblentz Inn (Cascade) are popular options. Self-catering offerings include the Royal Palm Suite Hotel (Maraval), Sundeck Suites and Crosswinds Villa Bed & Breakfast (Port of Spain).

Availability & prices Hotel rooms average US$125 a night, guesthouses $65, with discounted rates and packages often available. Be sure to book well in advance if you need a place to stay during Carnival or major conferences and international events, when prices increase. Peak season is December to April. * indicates properties which are participants in the EarthCheck programme

Spa time: pamper yourself You can find a range of spa options in Trinidad, some located in hotels (including the Hyatt, Hilton, and Kapok) and catering both to guests and the general population. Others are independently owned, many offering diverse pampering options. You can find spa and beauty treatment at The Face & Body Clinic’s four branches (Port of Spain, San Fernando, Chaguanas, and Tobago).

Spa Esencia at the Hyatt. Photos courtesy Hyatt Regency Trinidad

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dining in trinidad

ou could, quite seriously, come to Trinidad just to eat. Trinidadians love food — eating it, cooking it, and sharing it. Of course it’s way more fun to enjoy everything the island has to offer, but punctuate the excursions with culinary experiences ranging from finger-lickin’ street food to exquisite, award-winning fine dining experiences.

The local flavour Drawing on the culinary traditions of our cosmopolitan island’s many ethnic groups, Trinidad’s cuisine is distinct, tasty, and full of surprises. Dominant influences include African, Indian, Spanish, French, British, Chinese and Syrian-Lebanese traditions. So when it comes to indulging, you’ll be thoroughly spoilt for choice.

TIPS & TRICKS Make reservations, especially for dinner. Attire is usually casual to “elegantly casual”. Tipping is not mandatory but is encouraged for good service, especially if your party is large. Make sure to wash it all down with some freshly squeezed tropical punches (rum optional); a beastly cold, locally-brewed Carib or Stag; or some of the island’s fine rums, including the vintage Angostura 1919.

Broiled scallops topped with Tobiko sitting on top of a delicious crab meat and avocado mix. Photo courtesy Kaizan Sushi

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Top choices

Fine dining

You’ll find international fusion menus at many restaurants, while those specialising in other cuisines often pay homage in their names. Among the most popular dining experiences are the Hyatt’s Waterfront Restaurant (Port of Spain); Tiki Village and Kava (both at the Kapok Hotel, Maraval); Kaizan Sushi and Zanzibar (MovieTowne, Port of Spain); Krave Restaurant (Marabella); Mélange (Woodbrook); Smokey Joe’s, and the New York Times-featured Creole restaurant, Veni Mangé (Woodbrook); as well as Aioli (Maraval); Chaud (St Ann’s); Angelo’s Italian Restaurant (Woodbrook); Buzo Osteria Italiana (Woodbrook); Zazou Bistro Moderne (Maraval); Jaffa at the Oval (Woodbrook); and Prime Restaurant & Steakhouse (Port of Spain). For lighter meals or coffee/ tea, check out House of Jaipur’s Tea Room, Dianne’s Tea Shop and Adam’s Bagels (Maraval), or grab a quick sandwich or salad at Subway.

The restaurant scene has been blossoming in recent years. Fine dining options abound in Port of Spain (especially Woodbrook) and San Fernando, with an increasing number in east and central Trinidad. Many of the chefs at top restaurants have worked internationally, and like to experiment with local ingredients in Caribbean and international fusion dishes. Several restaurants have opened in historic buildings, preserving their traditional style and architecture. Others have opened up in fresh, sleek contemporary settings. Italian, French, Spanish, Lebanese, Japanese, Thai, Korean and Hakka (Indian/Chinese) are among the specialty restaurants and menus you’ll find. Combination restaurant/ sports bars are Be street smart a fashionable choice for dinAuthorised vendors ing and liming, display food badges especially when which certify official big sporting health inspection events are on. and approval.

Doubles. Photo by Richard Cook courtesy the TDC

The Trini taste: creole food & street food Creole food and street (also beach or festival) food are a big part of our culinary culture. Doubles is perhaps the leading roadside delight, a favourite of the breakfast and late evening crowds in St James, Woodbrook, Curepe, on Long Circular Road, and even the airport. There are also several buffet-style and pay-bythe-pound Creole eateries around these same stretches, and at night vendors emerge selling grilled fare, burgers, roti, corn soup, souse and ital food. People trek from all over the country to San Fernando to partake in barbecued Halal meats. In nearby Debe village, people throng to small wooden huts for sumptuous Indian delicacies.

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Local food favourites Here’s a list of local favourite foods and flavours that you should definitely try.

Accra: fritter of flour or grated yam flavoured with saltfish, thyme and pepper (African origin) Buljol: shredded saltfish mixed with onions, tomatoes and olive oil, often served with coconut bake Callaloo: soup made from dasheen leaves, coconut milk, ochroes, pumpkin, and sometimes salted meat or crab Chow: fruit, especially green ones, pickled in vinegar, salt and pepper. Favourites include mango, pineapple, West Indian plums Corn soup: a split peas-based soup with corn and dumplings Doubles: a popular Indian snack consisting of a soft, fried flour-and-split pea shell filled with curried chick peas. If you’re not a “pepper mouth”, ask the vendor for

doubles with “slight pepper” or “no pepper” Macaroni pie: baked macaroni, milk and cheese dish, often accompanied by stewed meat and peas Pastelle: seasoned meat, lentils or soya with olives, capers and raisins in a cornmeal casing and steamed in banana leaves. A Christmas staple Pelau: a one-pot dish of rice, pigeon peas and meat, often cooked in coconut milk Pholourie: seasoned fritters made with flour and split peas, dressed with chutney sauces Roti: hefty flour wrap (often with ground split peas) filled with your choice of curried vegetables and/or meat. Sada roti is a slightly stiffer, greaseless variation, commonly served with choka, vegetables sautéed Indian-style Bake-and-shark: That’s the usual Trini beach tradition, but for environmental sustainability, we suggest substituting equally tasty and richly seasoned fillets of flying fish, mahi mahi (“dolphin”), squid/calamari, carite, tilapia, wahoo, lionfish; or a vegetarian option, to go with the fried leavened bread (bake) and condiments (see below) that make this seaside dish such a local favourite Sno-cone: shaved ice drenched in syrups or kola and condensed milk (on request) Tamarind balls: a sweet (sometimes peppery) made from the pulp of the tamarind fruit, rounded by hand and rolled in sugar Condiments: Trinis love to douse their foods with condiments such as pepper, garlic, tamarind or barbecue sauce, ketchup, chutney and pickled fruits and veggies Baked fare: cassava pone, coconut sweetbread, fruitcake/black cake, coconut bake

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Fruit: mango, passion fruit, cashew, grapefruit, orange, portugal, shaddock, pommerac, pommecythere/golden apple, chennette/guineps, guava, melon, five fingers/carambola, sapodilla, soursop, pawpaw/papaya, pineapple, tamarind, peewah, chataigne Drinks: sorrel, mauby, ginger beer, coconut water, sea-moss, barbadine, soursop, rum punch, local wines made from local fruits Herbs and spices: nutmeg, clove, garlic, ginger, chadon beni, peppers, roucou/annatto, bay, anise, thyme, lemon/fever grass, spring onion.

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Photo by Sarita Rampersad

e Avenue”: the dining and nightlife paradise just outside Port of Spain. On this Woodbrook strip, you’ll get everything from fine dining restaurants to casinos, exclusive clubs, trendy bars and pubs, sushi and wine bars, street food vendors, and Creole food establishments — many crowded most nights of the week, with the buzz spilling out onto the sidewalks and into the streets. Settle in at one, or do like many locals, and bar/club-hop the night away! Photo taken at Game Time Sports Bar, Ariapita Avenue

Nightlife & entertainment

onday and Tuesday might be the only two days of the week when Trinis don’t lime and party in droves. Maybe. Because whether it’s a basic roadside bar with the spirited essentials; a swanky bar and lounge carrying live entertainment, gaming options, or the sports fixture of the hour; or a club to keep you pumping all night — things are seldom, if ever, quiet.

talk & lime like a trini

Liming 101

In 2012, CNN Travel listed Trinidad as having the 10th Sexiest Accent in the World (MSN Travel actually had us in the fourth spot!), saying: “For fetishists of oddball sexuality, the Caribbean island of Trinidad offers an undulating, melodic gumbo of pan-African, French, Spanish, Creole and Hindi dialects that, when adapted for English, is sex on a pogo stick …” Want to join in? Here are some words to try using in a sentence!

The word “lime”, as used in T&T, appears in the New Oxford American dictionary. Liming is doing anything, anywhere at all, in company and in a way that de-stresses. Americans would say “hanging out”.

Allyuh: all of you. Awa: or what (eg “All yuh going down de road awa?”) A-a (or aye aye)! A greeting of surprise and/or delight at seeing someone — or hearing a juicy piece of gossip. Bacchanal: multi-purpose word covering scandals, fights, or any chaos and confusion (whether pleasurable or not) Bad mind: spiteful thoughts about someone else; or determination to beat the odds (and prove a point) Bazodee: state of confusion, especially when in love Dougla: a person of mixed Indian and African descent Doux-doux (pronounced doo-doo): sweetheart, darling Ent: Not so? Used especially for emphasis Hoss (horse): a good friend and riding partner Maco: to be nosy (or someone who is nosy — both noun and verb) Mamaguy: sweet-talk, charm, flatter or wheedle (another noun and verb) Mauvais langue: from the French “bad tongue” — to speak ill, spiteful gossip Papayo!: exclamation of surprise or delight Steups: a sucking of the teeth — the equivalent of rolling one’s eyes Tabanca: lovesickness, especially after a break-up, or withdrawal after a wonderful experience (like your T&T vacation!) has ended Tootoolbay: to be in a stupor, due to an extreme case of tabanca.

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The lime & party epicentres While clubs and bars exist nationwide, there are some epicentres: Western Main Road in St James; Woodbrook and St Clair (Shaker’s, Nuvo Serra, Martin’s, the Oval, Paprika, and Drink for liming, while 51 Degrees, Aria, and Tzar are some of the mainstays for clubbers); One Woodbrook Place and MovieTowne locations (which have movies, food, drinks, live entertainment and more on site); Trincity Mall; Grand Bazaar (Valsayn); Arima; and San Fernando. You’ll also find a range of swanky lounges in the larger hotels around the country (see our Accommodation and Food & Dining sections for more.) And of course, there’s Ariapita Avenue!

Fetes Trinis are pretty good at finding reasons to party (fête is the French word for party) — all year round. Public holidays, fund-raisers, Carnival band launches — we can always find an excuse to throw a fete or host a major event, from cooler fetes to large-scale, stadium-filling brams. School and community grounds are often venues, and when things get really big, the action heads for venues like the O2 Arena (Chaguaramas), Queen’s Park Oval, National Stadium, and Queen’s Park Savannah (all in Port of Spain), as well as other sporting arenas across the nation. Sometimes these events feature international headline acts, in addition to local stars.

Bunji Garlin revs up the crowd. Photo by Aaron Richards

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Arts & culture

very culture is unique, but Trinidad’s culture has been cross-pollinated by generations of migrants from all over the world, whose cultural traditions have been preserved and adapted, all in one small island.

Music The trifecta: calypso, soca & steelpan Also known as just pan (from “steelpan”), this Trinbagonian invention, pioneered in Port of Spain in the late 1930s, is the only acoustic musical instrument created in the 20th century. It’s traditionally made from oil drums, cut, tempered and beaten into notes, as distinct from the more modern version, the G-Pan. Calypso dates back to pre-emancipation times, when slaves created songs as a form of praise or derisive social commentary. Its up-tempo progeny soca — a distinct form born in the 70s and incorporating Indian instruments and rhythms — is the islands’ party music. Calypso and soca have spawned other forms that fuse both local and international sounds. Calypso was popular on international airwaves between the 1930s and 50s; a few soca songs have gained international popularity since the 1980s. Artists including David Rudder, Machel Montano and Bunji Garlin have signed international record deals, and collaborated with international stars. Montano and Garlin have won Soul Train Awards, while Bunji and his wife Fay-Ann Lyons were the first to perform at the UK’s Glastonbury Music Festival in 2015. Member of the hugely popular DJ Group Major Lazer, Trinidadian Chris “Jillionaire” Leacock also works soca into the group’s performances and mixes.

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Photo courtesy TDC

Did you know? Steelpan to the world Steelbands exist all over the globe, from the US to Japan and Australia. Local ones have performed at prestigious venues world-wide. In 2015, a steelpan concerto (the second ever composed) was premiered at the Kennedy Centre in Washington by the US National Symphony Orchestra, featuring pannist Liam Teague.

Did you know? Multiple award-winning rap/hiphop artist Nicki Minaj; Grammywinning singer/songwriter Angela Hunte (who co-wrote “Empire State of Mind”, performed by Jay Z featuring Alicia Keys); Tony and Grammy winning singer/actress Heather Headley; and the late, celebrated performer Geoffrey Holder are all Trinidadian.

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The East Indian vibration

Parang

The most popular kind of local East Indian music is chutney, born of Hindi folk songs brought to Trinidad by Indian immigrants, and featuring instruments like the sitar and dholak drums. Chutney + soca = chutney soca! Tassa is a drum-driven music central to the Muslim festival of Hosay. Goatskincovered tassa drums are heated over fires at the roadside in order to achieve the right pitch.

Trinidad’s traditional Christmas music features instruments like the cuatro, box bass and maracas, with lyrics sung mostly in Spanish. Once sung by roving bands of serenaders called paranderos, parang bands now dominate the Christmas party circuit and the airwaves in season, and are being positioned to move into international Hispanic markets.

International vibrations Indigenous music is only the beginning. Some of the most distinctive music groups include fusion bands 12theband, jointpop, Orange Sky and Freetown Collective; the IndoCaribbean music of Mungal Patasar & Pantar; the Orisha songs of Ella Andall; and the rapso of 3canal and Ataklan. There are also local rock, jazz, and raggae artists. Groups like the Marionettes, Southernaires, Lydians, and Love Movement present western classical, opera, and Broadway, and are particularly popular at Christmas time. The Marionettes Chorale perform Les Misérables. Photo by Butch Limchoy

More music For more on Trinidad’s music, including how a steelpan is made, visit our website at discovertnt.com.

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Theatre & dance With several commercial, university, and community theatre companies and performance venues, options vary from original plays to popular farces, lavish song and dance musicals (and operas), or intimate solo shows and dramas. There is usually at least one production running on any given weekend, and sometimes there’s one at every major auditorium in the country. Both foreign works (or adaptations of them) and local works are staged. The local dance scene spans regional folk dance (the most popular being the indigenous limbo, bongo, and bele), ballet, jazz, modern, Indian classical, and styles from around the world. Dance schools and semi-professional companies present high-quality shows yearround, while smaller troupes present experimental multi-media productions. A soloist with the Noble Douglas Dance Company (NDDC) in action. Photo by Maria Nunes

Where to look Popular venues for theatre, dance and some music shows include the Queen’s Hall (the island’s premier performance space), Central Bank Auditorium, Little Carib Theatre, and Trinidad Theatre Workshop (all in Port of Spain); CLR James Auditorium and University of the West Indies (UWI) in the east; and Naparima Bowl and SAPA (the southern campus of the Academy for the Performing Arts) in San Fernando.

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Fashion & jewellery Trinidad has produced bold and vibrant designers and fashion lines. For something distinctively Trinidadian, check out fashion by CLD, Ecliff Elie, Adrian Foster, House of Jaipur, Heather Jones, K2K, the Lush Kingdom, Meiling, Millhouse, Claudia Pegus, Pilar, The Cloth, and the Wadada Movement. Local jewellery designers create breathtaking hand-crafted jewellery in gold and precious stones, including Chris Anderson, Gillian Bishop, Janice Derrick, Akilah Jaramogi, Barbara Jardine, Rachel Rochford, Rachel Ross, and Jasmine Thomas-Girvan. Photo by Gary Jordan, courtesy the House of Jaipur

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Film & cinema Film is a growing industry here, with several Did you know? incentive and rebate programmes designed Screen time to encourage local and foreign producers to film on location in T&T. Several film-makers Long before Sam Mendes and of Trinbagonian heritage are producing and Steve McQueen (both British showcasing their works internationally; many directors of Trinidadian descent) are screened at the annual Trinidad & Towon Oscars for American Beauty bago Film Festival (see our Festivals section). and 12 Years a Slave, Scottish The UWI Campus Film Classics and Europeengineer John Logie Baird is said an Film Festivals host special screenings of to have produced the world’s first regional and foreign indie films. Mainstream television set on a cocoa estate box office hits are typically screened at in Santa Cruz around 1920. multiplexes — MovieTowne (Port of Spain and Chaguanas); Caribbean Cinemas 8 (Trincity and San Fernando) — and the Digicel Imax in Port of Spain. Some older venues still show the traditional “double feature”, with two films on one ticket.

Visual arts

Literature & books

The seven galleries of the National Museum house some of the country’s best artwork (see our Touring & Sightseeing section). Art exhibitions take place year-round, especially at spaces like 101 Art Gallery, Fine Art, Horizons, Medulla, Softbox Studios, and Studio 66, as well as the unique Alice Yard exhibition and artist residency/facilitation space. The Art Society of Trinidad & Tobago hosts exhibitions as well as sessions ranging from life drawing to ethics in art (artsocietytt.org). For more, visit our website.

The island has produced some stellar writers over the generations, including Nobel laureate VS Naipaul, and several award-winning writers who have published internationally. Their work spans fiction, plays and poetry to local history, culture and the environment. Book launches, readings and lectures take place at the National Library, UWI, the University of Trinidad & Tobago, the National Museum, at bookstores, and during the Bocas Lit Fest (see our Festivals section). Paper Based at the Hotel Normandie in St Ann’s is a treasure trove for local publishing; the RIK and Nigel R Khan bookstore chains are also good bets.

25 yearS of publishing This year, Discover’s publishers — MEP — also celebrate 25 years of publishing, a landmark event in the local industry. MEP is best known for high quality culture, business and tourism magazines like Discover and Caribbean Beat, as well as a range of biography, natural history, art, and current affairs titles through book imprint Prospect Press. The Press’s most recent titles include collections by Dana Seetahal (Unbroken) and Martin Daly (The Daly Commentaries). meppublishers.com

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Retail therapy

what to buy & where to buy it

ow that you know all about our food, music, art, fashion, film, and more (see our Arts & Culture section), it’s time to find out how to buy some!

Souvenir ideas

Cocoa & chocolate T&T produces award-winning cocoa and chocolate. Think: Trinitario (used by French luxury chocolate manufacturer Valrhona), Cacique and Cocobel.

Foodie & spirited favourites Pastelles, roti skins, seasonings, spices, sweets, fruit cakes, biscuits and crackers, pepper sauces, chutneys, curry powders, wines, amchar, even frozen and pre-cooked meat: these are the things Trinis (and Trini food/drink aficionados) load up their suitcases with on departure. Beers, awardwinning local rums, and the world-famous Angostura Bitters are also popular.

Did you know? The Trinidad Scorpion Pepper was ranked as the world’s hottest pepper by the Guinness Book of Records.

Local music & films/DVDs Steelpans are a popular take-away, from the miniatures available at souvenir shops to a full-fledged tenor pan (contact Pan Trinbago, pantrinbago.co.tt). At local music stores, you’ll find great steelband, calypso (both re-mastered vintage and new Trinidad Scorpion pepper. recordings), soca and chutney albums, plus Photo by Bonnie James via Flickr a range of other locally produced music in a dizzying number of genres. There are annual compilations of the year’s most popular Carnival tunes, and often recordings of major Carnival and other competitions and events on DVD. Slowly but surely, local films and TV series are also making their way onto DVD.

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Where to shop

Shopping malls There are five major shopping malls in Trinidad: The Falls at West Mall (Westmoorings) and Long Circular Mall (St James) just outside Port of Spain; Trincity Mall near Piarco airport; Grand Bazaar (Valsayn); and Gulf City (San Fernando). There are several smaller shopping plazas and mini-malls as well.

Photo by Mark Lyndersay courtesy The Falls at West Mall

Markets & trade fairs The San Antonio Green Market in Santa Cruz (Saturday mornings) is a one-stop shop for just about everything fresh and local — produce, meats and fish, juices, signature local dishes, chocolate, home and personal care items, and much more, all in the context of a range of familyfriendly activities. The monthly UpMarket is a monthly gathering of local artisans and their work at the Woodbrook Youth Centre in Port of Spain. Travelling trade fairs from India have become a regular event, offering great prices on Indian clothes, jewellery and more.

Downtown High street shopping happens in Trinidad’s major towns, including Frederick and Charlotte streets (Port of Spain); High Street (San Fernando); and Main Street (Chaguanas). Around Carnival time, the southeast side of the Savannah is transformed into a centre for local arts and crafts. At Emancipation time, it becomes a hub for African arts and culture.

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Festivals & celebrations

rinidad’s multiculturalism means an incredible diversity of festivals and holidays, many of which are celebrated by people from all backgrounds. Here are some of the biggest and most unique, where everyone is welcome. For more, see our Festivals & Events Calendar!

Phagwa (Holi) Each March the Hindu community recognises the beginning of the Indian spring and the Hindu New Year. A major hallmark of the festival is the vegetable dye abir, a vegetable dye (commonly a distinctive purple) that participants spray over one another as part of the revelry. The Aranguez Savannah is a popular venue for these celebrations of rebirth and renewal.

Bocas Lit Fest The five-day annual Trinidad & Tobago Literary Festival brings together readers, writers, poets, and publishers from the Caribbean diaspora in a celebration in late April of books and writing, with readings, workshops, performances, discussions, and the presentation of annual prizes for fiction, non-fiction and poetry (bocaslitfest.com).

La Divina Pastora & Siparee Mai A church of the same name houses a statue of the Virgin Mary as La Divina Pastora (the Divine Shepherdess) in Siparia, and one of the most unique Trinidadian commemorations. On her feast day, the second Sunday after Easter, the “Miracle Mother” is decorated with flowers, dressed in white, and processed through the streets, followed by celebrations open to all. Many miracles have been attributed to her by her many devotees — not just Catholics, but those of many faiths. She is Siparee Mai (mother of Siparia) to believers in the Hindu community, who are among the pilgrims who visit the church on the Thursday (night) and Friday before Easter, offering acts of devotion. The church welcomes all wishing to pay their respects.

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Indian Arrival Day (public holiday))

Santa Rosa Festival and First People’s Heritage Week

This national public holiday (30 May) commemorates the arrival of the first indentured labourers from India on the ship Fatel Razack in 1845. More than 140,000 Indians were recruited over the next 70 years to work Trinidad’s plantations after Emancipation (1838). Communities re-enact the arrival of this first group on beaches around the country, and outstanding members of Trinidad’s Indian community are rewarded for their contributions. The Divali Nagar site just outside Chaguanas hosts many of the key celebrations.

Celebrated in August, the month-long syncretic First Peoples/Catholic Santa Rosa Festival commemorates the death of Santa Rosa de Lima, the Roman Catholic patron saint of the New World. It culminates on the Sunday following her feast day (23 August), when her statue is borne through the streets of Arima in a procession by members of the Santa Rosa First Peoples Community, led by the Carib Queen, and Roman Catholics. Other observances include sharing traditional Amerindian foods, cultural and spiritual rituals and commemorations, as well as church services. In mid-October, the Community celebrates First Peoples Heritage Week, including academic conferences, ritual smoke and water ceremonies, street processions, and other recognition and celebration of the island’s First Peoples heritage. santarosafirstpeoples.org

Emancipation Day (public holiday)) Celebrated on 1 August to commemorate the end of slavery in the British colonies (1838), this public holiday features street processions, religious services, cultural shows, films and lectures, exhibitions of African art, a trade exposition, performances (featuring local and international acts), and countless events and activities nationwide. The Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village in Port of Spain is the centre of the activities. Previous page: a child celebrates Phagwa. Photo by Chris Anderson This page: A dancer at the Oshun River Festival. Photo by Edison Boodoosingh

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Trinidad & Tobago Film Festival (ttff)) Now the second largest of its kind in the region, the ttff showcases a range of dramatic, documentary, short, and animated films from or about Trinidad & Tobago, the Caribbean, and the diaspora, and hosts a number of workshops, educational initiatives, and development programmes (trinidadandtobagofilmfestival.com).

Ramleela and Divali (public holiday)) Celebrated in October or November according to the moon, this Hindu festival honours Mother Lakshmi (goddess of light, beauty, riches and love) and celebrates the return of Lord Rama from exile: thousands of flickering deyas light his way. Felicity in south Trinidad is among the most popular venues, though many public spaces are lit up for the festival. At the Divali Nagar site in Chaguanas, hundreds take part in the ritual lighting of deyas at dusk on the day itself. The Ramleela takes place just before Divali. This nine-day festival dramatises the life of Lord Ram with music and dancing. The best-known productions are held in Couva and Felicity. Hindus across Trinidad attend the outdoor spectacles, which involve bright costumes and an epic finale.

Dancers perform at the Divali Nagar (City of Lights). Photo by Chris Anderson

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storytelling, folklore, Carnival traditions, food and farming products, sports, and the selection of a Best Village Queen, La Reine Rivé.

Hosay

Best village competition. Photo by Edison Boodoosingh

Best Village This national competition keeps folk traditions alive in local communities, and is where some of the nation’s finest performing arts professionals make their start. Ten counties vie for various titles in the Prime Minister’s Best Village trophy. Action heats up at mid-year, and encompasses all indigenous local culture — dance, drama, music,

A local incarnation of the Islamic Muharram observances, the festival commemorates the martyrdom of Hussain, the Prophet Muhammad’s grandson, and later murder of his brother Hassan. The lively three-night celebrations (Flag Night, Small Hosay, Big Hosay) culminate in a day procession of exquisitely made tadjahs (ornate replicas of the tomb of Hussain) carried through the streets to the thunder of tassa drums; they are eventually cast into the sea. Popular venues for watching (and joining) Hosay activities are St James, Curepe, Tunapuna, Couva, and Cedros. Dates vary each year according to the moon.

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Jamette consciousness: Trinidad Carnival

ou’ll hear it in virtually every soca song: “Carnival is bacchanal” — which it is, on many levels. It’s also called “the greatest show on earth” — though a more accurate description might be “the world’s greatest street party”, or the “Mother of all West Indian style Carnivals”.

But the Carnival has always had a subversive streak. Jamette (from the French diametre, or “line of respectability”) was a term used by the French and British in colonial times to describe the “under-class” and the perceived violence, lewdness and dirtiness of their Carnival activities. These days, it is still used to describe “bad behaviour” of all kinds, and to describe women who assert the freedom to cross the line of “respectability”. A large part of Trinidad Carnival is about abandon and confrontation, an anti-authoritarian movement subverting all that inhibits and represses. So what you’ll find is a strange, testy negotiation between organisation and mayhem, rules and anarchy. And that hot and sweaty, drunk and disorderly, loud and wassy space in the middle is bliss for some, purgatory for others! Love it or hate it, it is a uniquely Trinidadian experience you are unlikely to forget. Are you ready for the road?

The wining season Carnival fetes: doing it like a boss Several fetes (parties) are on each weekend until Carnival — especially after New Year — with different vibes, styles, production values and target audiences. “Cooler fetes” are more affordable, and require you bring (or buy) your own supplies. Swankier all-inclusives offer food and drink in the (higher) ticket price. The most in-demand fetes attract the biggest soca acts, who perform live. A staple for feters is also the Soca Monarch finals (Friday before Carnival), a combination of party and competition, where some of the top local and regional soca stars compete for the International Soca Monarch crowns (Groovy and Power).

Shows & concerts Plenty of events crop up around Carnival, from the last vestiges of calypso tents, to intimate concert events (like Under the Trees) featuring local stars and legends; to huge concerts produced by some of soca’s biggest names (like Machel Montano, KES, Iwer George, Bunji Garlin and Destra Garcia) and party promoters (like Battle of the Sexes and Ladies Night Out); and more theatrical events like 3canal’s annual Carnival show.

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Masquerader in costume. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

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Pan yards & Panorama Lovers of the steelpan will do the pan yard crawl in the weeks before Carnival, to hear their favourite bands practising for Panorama. The bigger bands are adjudicated on site first, with the successful groups moving on to the pan semis (two weekends before Carnival), and then to the Panorama finals (Saturday before Carnival; single-pan and small bands compete in the days before). Both events are typically at the Queen’s Park Savannah, offering several experiences: the seats of the Grand Stand (facing the bands) and North Stand (looking at the back of the bands); the drag or track along which bands make their way to the Savannah stage, practising and fine-tuning as they go; and, for the semis, the controversial “Greens”, which is more a party than a pan-oriented experience. Pan Trinbago: pantrinbago.co.tt.

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Exodus steelband at Panorama. Photo courtesy TDC

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J’ouvert The reign of the Merry Monarch begins. From 4am on Carnival Monday morning, the streets swell with people playing “dutty mas”, covered in oil, grease, paint, mud, cocoa, clay … Traditional bands feature characters like jab jabs, blue devils, and bats, or create “ole mas” costumes with stinging socio-political messages. Less traditional bands offer revellers T-shirts that they can mix and match as they please.

Carnival Monday & Tuesday Monday doesn’t really get going till about midday, as the J’ouvert revellers recover. Many bands now have “Monday wear”, so few are in full costume, and may be more lenient around security and “crashers”. On Tuesday, things start as early as 7am, as bands head for the big stage at the Queen’s Park Savannah or the Socadrome (Jean Pierre Complex). They are now in full costume: the streets are colour in motion. Though the biggest celebrations are in Port of Spain, they also happen on the streets of major towns and villages nationwide.

Carnival Queen costume on stage. Photo courtesy TDC

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Play a mas: how to join in Want to play mas? Unless it’s one of the bands with restricted access and you don’t have a direct contact (yes, there are those), you can simply search for a band online, choose the one you want (sites like trinidadcarnivaldiary.com are useful for info), and often purchase your costume right on their website. The same goes for many J’ouvert bands, and some Carnival fete and event tickets. There is a wide range of prices and options. And if you really love mas, visit the mas camps of bands with kings and queens in competition — it’s an unforgettable experience to see these epic creations being constructed.

Blue devils in Paramin. Photo by Chris Anderson

A Monday alternative: Paramin Up in the hills of Paramin, just outside Port of Spain, an immersive Carnival tradition offers an alternative — or a complement — to mainstream Monday mas activities. As the sun gets ready to set (after 5pm), the blue devil competition sees bands of hardcore devils swarm onto Fatima Junction, beating biscuit tins, breathing fire, and demanding payment from the crowd (“pay de devil” is the chant).

More competitions & mini-festivals There are countless competitions for Carnival’s myriad artforms (National Carnival Commission: ncctt.org): stick-fighting calypso in various styles, including the entirely improvised extempo, and culminating in the Dimanche Gras event the Sunday before Carnival. Junior crowns are also up for grabs king and queen of the bands (spectacular individual costumes, junior and senior) Kiddies Carnival (with some of the best designs of the season) events with traditional and historical emphases, including the Canboulay Riots Re-enactment (Friday before Carnival), and mini-festivals where traditional Carnival mas characters take centre stage Champs in Concert (a post-Carnival event featuring all the season’s winners).

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Carnival in context The roots of Trinidad Carnival stretch back to the 1780s and a unique interaction between Africa and Europe. The descendants of West African slaves and French planters both brought their traditions of masking and street processions across the Atlantic, which have evolved and been recreated on Trinidadian soil for over 200 years. Here’s a Carnival glossary. Band: a costumed band parading for Carnival, or a steelband Calypso: indigenous Trinidadian music, with roots in West African songs of praise and mockery. Traditionally associated with satire, humour, comedy, attack and defiance Canboulay Riots: 1881 Carnival-time uprising against British colonial authorities Dimanche Gras: production on Carnival Sunday night, including the Calypso Monarch competition Limbo: sacred folk dance indigenous to Trinidad, once performed at wakes in African communities; the lower the dancer could go, the higher the spirit of the dead could ascend Mas: short form of masquerade Mas camp: home and workshop of a masquerade band Road march: the song played most often at judging points on Monday and Tuesday Traditional/Ol’ mas characters: well-known Carnival costumed “characters” such as the Dame Lorraine (a man in a dress with stuffed bosom and bottom, satirising bulky colonial matrons), the ominous Midnight Robber with his grandiloquent speeches, and the talkative Pierrot Grenade.

Tracey Sankar portrays Erzulie the La Diablesse. Photo by Maria Nunes

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Tours, eco escapes & adventures

Beach bumming: our top 20 rinidad may not be best known for beaches, but there are certainly enough to let you turn beach bum, if only for a day! Here are some of the best. First order of business: pick a coast.

North coast Maracas Bay: the most popular beach — great food, good stretch of sand, on-site facilities, surfing if the conditions are right, lifeguards, and a hotel and gas station nearby. Popular for camping at Easter time (permit required). Currently seeking Blue Flag certification. About 40 minutes from Port of Spain Tyrico Bay: calmer, smaller, quieter alternative to Maracas, but still close to its facilities Las Cuevas: this long, looping Blue Flag beach has great bathing, with small caves, white sand and flowering trees. There is a snack bar, showers/

The Blue Flag This certification indicates compliance with strict criteria around water quality; environmental education, information, and management; and safety and other services.

toilets (nominal fee), parking and lifeguards. About 50 minutes from Port of Spain

Maracas Beach. Photo by Chris Anderson

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La Fillette: about 100 winding steps lead down to the rocky beach below. Often calm waters, good for snorkelling Blanchisseuse: popular weekend getaway, with several hiking trails to the nearby waterfall, into the rainforest, and along the north coast; good kayaking in the nearby Marianne River. Guesthouses and holiday homes for rent are plentiful. In season, there’s good surfing, turtle-watching, and bird-watching year round. An hour or more from Port of Spain.

Scotland Bay: sheltered and secluded bay in Chaguaramas only accessible by boat. Calm clear water good for snorkelling and swimming Macqueripe Bay: small, secluded Chaguaramas bay. Good for swimming and snorkelling, with recently renovated bathroom/changing rooms, car park, children’s play park — and a new zip-lining course overhead. Entrance fee

Northeast coast Saline (“Sally”) Bay: good for swimming, clear water, and facilities on site Balandra Bay: sheltered, and good for swimming, even bodysurfing at the rougher end Sans Souci: good for surfing, bathing, camping Salybia Bay: popular for surfing (November–April), and ideal for swimming June–September. There’s a fringing reef offshore. Beach facilities have recently been built

Grande Rivière: perfect for a weekend eco escape. In season, it is the second largest leatherback turtle nesting ground in the world. Good for river bathing and kayaking, as well as hikes into the forest. There are beach facilities and several guesthouses available (see our accommodation section) Paria Bay: accessible only by boat or via hiking trail from Blanchisseusse (see our hiking section). Good for ocean kayaking; there are waterfalls and rocky pools nearby, and turtles nest here in season.

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Tips & Tricks Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am–5pm or 10am–6pm where available, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas Permits are required both for camping and for turtle-watching on the nation’s beaches. Contact a reputable tour guide, your hotel, or the Forestry Division to make arrangements Tropical sun can quickly give light skins a bad burn, even through cloud, so use your sunscreen.

South Quinam Beach: probably the most popular beach on the south coast, good for swimming. The sand is fine and brown, although it is covered during high tide. There are amenities, lifeguards, and trails into the woods Vessigny Beach: popular venue for beach parties and excursions. There are lifeguards and several facilities including a snack bar.

Southwest Granville Beach: popular at weekends and for parties. Good for camping, kayaking, and bathing Columbus & Cedros Bays: both are stunning in good weather. Cedros has the widest beach on the island at low tide. These pristine bays and quiet fishing villages have wonderful views of the southwestern coast, and on clear days, of neighbouring Venezuela. Good for bathing, biking and kayaking.

Southeast Swim with care on this coast, as the Atlantic currents on the east coast are strong. Manzanilla: perfect for sunbathing and jogging, bordered by the distinctive “Cocal” (coconut forest). Facilities, lifeguards, and accommodation in specific areas Mayaro: glorious stretch of beach — the longest in the island — perfect for long walks, kite-surfing, sun-bathing, and camping. Shells of “chip chip”, like clam shells, protect small oceanic organisms. Fishermen “pull seine” here, bringing in the day’s catch in huge nets. There’s accommodation in the area.

This page: the “cocal” or coconut forest. Opposite: cliff at Icacos, near Columbus Bay. Photos by Chris Anderson

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Trinidad piping-guan (pawi). Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

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Sightseeing \ & more

Trinidad’s natural history Trinidad owes its phenomenal diversity of flora, fauna and topography to a combination of Caribbean and South American characteristics (the island was originally connected to the mainland). The result is a unique mix of island and continental ecology, a distinctive legacy that is visible all around — mountain ranges (the northern, central and southern) cloaked in tropical rainforest; mangrove swamps; savannahs; waterfalls and rivers; and distinct coastal waters that are sometimes jungle green, aqua blue, and deep, dark blue, washed by the nutrient-rich waters of Venezuela’s Orinoco River. There are coral reefs off the northwest and northeast coasts, with rocky, windy islands off the Chaguaramas peninsula, featuring coves, caves and beaches. Caroni (on the west coast) and Nariva (in the southeast) are the two main swamps.

Biodiversity in a nutshell Trinidad is said to have some of the greatest biodiversity per square mile in the world. This includes: 2,100+ flowering plant species (almost 200 are orchids) 370 species of trees (including native purpleheart, mora and crappo) 400+ bird species (more than any other Caribbean island) 600+ butterfly species 400+ marine fish and 40+ freshwater fish 100+ recorded mammal species (over 60 of them bats) 90+ species of reptiles (including 40+ species of snake) 30+ amphibian species.

A young hummingbird feeding. Photo by Chris Anderson

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Round-the-island tour rinidad’s human and physical landscapes vary vastly from coast to coast. Starting early (and going against or without traffic), you can drive the entire island in a day if you want, using our list of favourite sites below to help pick your stops.

From Port of Spain, head east on the Churchill-Roosevelt Highway. From Arima, continue east to Valencia, then either north towards dramatic Toco and Grande Rivière, or southeast to Sangre Grande, through the Cocal (coconut forest) of Manzanilla and on to Mayaro. From Mayaro village, you can either retrace your steps or cross the island westwards, through Rio Claro and Princes Town, and explore the southwestern peninsula, following the coast past La Brea and Point Fortin towards Icacos. Cedros and Columbus Bays are magical. On your way back to San Fernando, take note of the Pitch Lake and the oil-based industry that drives Point Fortin. You can speed back to Port of Spain along the Solomon Hochoy Highway, or take the old route via the Southern Main Road, past Claxton Bay, the sprawling Point Lisas Industrial Estate (the world’s two largest methanol plants are found here), the Waterloo Temple and Hanuman Murti. For shorter drives, head west to Chaguaramas, with its National Heritage Park and marinas of moored yachts from across the globe; or along the North Coast Road to Blanchisseuse.

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An aerial view of Queen’s Royal College. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

In & around Port of Spain The Queen’s Park Savannah Described as the lungs of the city, the Savannah is a hub of recreational activity. Its vast grounds are popular for sports, kite-flying (especially around Easter), and even photo shoots. Walkers, joggers, dog-walkers, and food/drink vendors (including a series of colourful Carnival stalls in season) dominate its perimeter.

Some highlights (* indicates a National Trust protected site): “Magnificent Seven”* (southwestern side): a line of century-old colonial houses in varying degrees of repair and use, reflecting their diverse histories and ownership. From south to north: Queen’s Royal College (boys’ secondary school); Hayes Court (Anglican Bishop’s residence); Milles Fleurs (law association headquarters); Roomor (private home); Roman Catholic Archbishop’s House; Whitehall; and Killarney or Stollmeyer’s Castle, beside beautiful Wildflower Park Emperor Valley Zoo & Botanical Gardens (northern side): opened in 1952 and recently upgraded, the Zoo’s nearly 3 hectares house hundreds of animals (zstt.org). The nearby Gardens (est. 1820) are a favourite for picnics and walks, and home to one of the oldest collections of exotic plants and trees in the western hemisphere. Next door is the President’s official home, under repair at the time of writing discovertnt.com

Sunlight peeps through the branches of a poui tree. Photo by Chris Anderson

symbol Key Waterfall Museum Sailing/Boat/ Water Tours

Queen’s Park Savannah 101 The Savannah is said to be the world’s largest roundabout (approximately 3.5km and 260 acres) and the Caribbean’s oldest recreation ground. Originally part of the Paradise Estate, a portion of land in the centre remains a burial ground for members of the Peschier family (its previous owners); it was converted into a city park in 1817.

Fort Hiking Birdwatching Turtle watching Snorkelling Cycling Place of interest Viewpoint Caves Kayaking

The National Academy for the Performing Arts (temporarily closed for repairs) dominates the southern side of the Savannah, next to Memorial Park. At Carnival time, across the road is the entrance to the drag or track, the road to the big stage that masqueraders cross on Carnival Monday and Tuesday; it’s also popular for listening to competing bands at Panorama as they prepare to compete centre-stage National Museum & Art Gallery (just off the southern end): housed in the German Renaissance-style architecture of the Royal Victoria Institute* on Frederick Street are new collections, retrospectives, period installations, geological displays, ethnic artefacts, a sports museum, and the works of 19th century artist Jean Michel Cazabon. The Museum has small branches in Fort San Andres (South Quay), and the Museum of the Trinidad & Tobago Police Service (Old Police Headquarters on St Vincent Street), both also in Port of Spain. Admission is free, and guided tours are available. The museums are open Tuesday–Saturday, nmag.gov.tt

Lighthouse

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The Fondes Amandes Community Reforestation Project In St Ann’s (passing the Queen’s Hall, and after a short drive), the Fondes Amandes Community Reforestation Project provides wonderful forest tours.

Fort George* Built in 1804, this virgin fort (it never saw military action) offers a magnificent panoramic view (rivalled only by that from Mount St Benedict) of the entire west coast from 335m/1,100ft above Port of Spain. On a clear day, you can see to south Trinidad, and west to Venezuela. Around Christmas time, you might just be lucky enough to see the sun set before closing time. Open 10am–6pm, admission free.

The Angostura Rum & Bitters Museum and Barcant Butterfly Collection The House of Angostura (est. 1824), east of Port of Spain on the Eastern Main Road, offers tram tours where you can learn about the mysterious making of the worldfamous Angostura Bitters and the production of rum (with some product tasting). You can also view the collection of Trinidad’s butterflies, including the beautiful blue emperor. Advance booking required. 623-1841.

DID YOU KNOW? Gingerbread houses The recently refurbished George Brown House* and Gingerbread House* (near All Saints’ Church) have delicate wooden filigree, jalousie windows, peaked roofs, dormers and a gallery. George Brown, a Scottish architect who came to Trinidad in 1880, created the “gingerbread style”, which can be found across the island, in remnants of stately mansions once owned by planters and merchants, as well as the cottages of the poor.

View over Port of Spain with the lights of Point Lisas in the distance. Photo by Chris Anderson

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Top 5 historical landmarks (downtown Port of Spain) The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (Roman Catholic)*: after several years of restoration work, the Cathedral at press time was due to be re-dedicated in December 2015. Standing on the eastern end of the Brian Lara Promenade, it started off as a wooden building until work on the present structure began in 1816. It features some stunning stained-glass windows depicting Trinidad’s history The Holy Rosary Church (Roman Catholic): towards the eastern end of Park Street, it was built (1866) in the Gothic revival style and is currently undergoing major restoration work The Old Fire Station & NALIS: off the historic Woodford Square, the original Fire Station was built in 1897, refurbished in 2000, and integrated with the distinctive new National Library & Information Systems (NALIS) headquarters The Red House: currently undergoing major repair works, this rebuilt version (the 1844 original was burnt down in 1903 during the Water Riots) used to house the nation’s Parliament, which has since relocated to the International Waterfront Centre. A First Peoples burial ground was recently found at the site, including remains and artefacts (430–1400 AD) The Trinity Cathedral (Anglican): on the south side of Woodford Square, it was completed in 1818 in the Gothic revival style.

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Preserving our natural and built heritage T&T has been moving toward preserving both our natural (forests, savannahs, reefs, and wetlands) and built heritage (colonial mansions and estate homes, churches and cathedrals, mosques, mandirs, forts, and museums). Many buildings that have survived are in the process of being protected and preserved by the National Trust as national heritage sites with legal protected status — at press time, there were 29 (indicated by *), with roughly 100 more in process. Some protected sites require permission to access from one of several state authorities, which reputable guides can arrange.

Chaguaramas* Boats, parties, hiking, biking, history, restaurants, water-sports, beach-bumming, golfing … or just lazing on the Boardwalk or under magnificent samaan trees. The Chaguaramas National Heritage Park is home to all this. It is managed by the Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA, chaguaramas.com), which also provides onshore and offshore tours. Some highlights: The “Bamboo Cathedral”: a lush, serene and easy walk under a bamboo canopy — unless you plan to trek uphill to the top of Morne Catherine with its abandoned World War II tracking station Military & Aviation Museum: chronicles the military history of the country from 1498 to the present. Admission fee; guided tours available upon request (militarymuseumtt.com) Zip-lining: a series of seven zip-lines and rope bridges are set high in the trees above Macqueripe, providing 45 minutes of heart-stopping fun. 381-8543, facebook.com/Trinidadzipitt discovertnt.com

DDI Spotlight Going “down de islands” (DDI) is a favourite jaunt for those owning or renting holiday homes, or dropping anchor in one of the coves or bays. There are three sets of islands off the northwest coast, each with distinct features and histories: the Five Islands (of which there are actually six); the Diego Islands; and then Gaspar Grande, Monos, Huevos, and Chacachacare Nelson Island, one of the Five, was used to quarantine indentured immigrants Gaspar Grande has the stunning Gasparee Caves, formed by a coral reef pushed up from the sea. Water has since eroded the limestone, creating dramatic stalactites, stalagmites, earth pillars and a massive blue-green pool, lit by sunlight from a hole above Chacachacare has a salt pond, a lighthouse and, most famously, a leprosarium, now defunct. The remains of the chapel and dwellings of the ministering nuns are still there Carrera, one of the Diego pair, has been a prison island.

Down the islands. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

Discover the magic of Chaguaramas Visit the Gaspree Caves. Follow Hiking trails to Lumbar Lane, Huggins Trail, Nutmeg Vale, Covigne River, Edith Falls or take a walk from the Golf Course to Macqueripe Bay. Enjoy the Sea Scape by touring Chacachacare, Scotland Bay or visit Trinidad’s best kept secret Biscayne Bay.

Chaguaramas… Somewhere close to Magic.

Call today to book your tours at: 634-4227 / 4312 / 2424 ext 191 or email customerservice@chagdev.com

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www.chaguaramas.com

The North & northeast

View from the Keshorn Walcott Toco Lighthouse. Photo by Bridget van Dongen

Galera Point & Keshorn Walcott Toco Lighthouse There’s a rocky outcrop at Galera Point, just beyond the Keshorn Walcott Toco Lighthouse (1877) at the northeastern tip of the island. Here two great bodies of water meet: the Atlantic Ocean to the east, the Caribbean Sea to the west, with a distinct demarcation in colour. It is also here that Amerindians, fleeing the Spanish occupiers after the Arena uprising in 1699, are said to have thrown themselves into the water rather than suffer further oppression. In February, Orisha devotees celebrate the Olukun Festival here. There is a small picnic area.

Mount St Benedict Perched 245m/800ft above the central plain, off St John’s Road in Tunapuna, Mount St Benedict is the oldest Benedictine monastery in the Caribbean. The 600acre complex includes a nature park with walkways and trails, perfect for hiking, bird-watching and enjoying the magnificent views. The Pax Guesthouse offers accommodation, a tea-house and terraces for bird-watching.

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Lopinot Historical Complex* Nestled in the Northern Range off the Eastern Main Road near Arouca, Lopinot was originally developed (1806) as a cocoa estate by a French count, Charles Joseph de Lopinot, who had fled to Trinidad in 1791 to escape the Haitian revolution. The former tapia estate house, prison and slave quarters have been turned into a museum. The area is popular for picnics, family days, retreats, sports, bird-watching and hiking (there is a river and also caves nearby). The village residents are a quintessentially Trini mix of First Peoples, Spanish, French, African and East Indian heritage, and remain close to the land. Some still speak Spanish, French and patois. At Christmas time, the area is a hub for parang and pastelles. At any time of year, make sure to take in the delights at Café Mariposa.

The Asa Wright Nature Centre

Did you know? The ghost of Compte de Lopinot Legend has it that on dark, stormy nights the count appears on a black horse dressed in military regalia and gallops across the Lopinot savannah. After a visit in 2011, TV show Ghost Hunters International (SYFY Channel in the US) reported that they had found more evidence of paranormal activity here than anywhere else in the world.

Off the Arima-Blanchisseuse Road, this is one of Trinidad’s most outstanding birdwatching and eco-centres; the New York Zoological Society established a research station here in 1949. Originally a coffee, citrus and cocoa plantation (now partially reclaimed by secondary forest), the estate and its carefully preserved great house, Springhill, were bought in 1947 by a retired English solicitor, Dr Newcome Wright, and his Icelandic wife Asa. When Newcome died, Mrs Wright sold the land on condition that it remained a conservation area; a non-profit trust was set up in 1967.

Did you know?

The Centre now spans 1,500 acres in the Arima and Aripo Valleys of the Northern Range. Its eco-lodge, veranda, restaurant and reception are open to day visitors: the admission covers a half-mile guided tour The name originally and some access to the grounds (including a fresh-water pool that given to Trinidad you can bathe in). Overnight visitors enjoy greater access to the trails by the First People and caves, including the rare oilbirds’ habitat at Dunston Cave. This was “Iere”, which is perhaps the most easily accessible colony of these some say means rare, nocturnal, fruit-eating birds to be found any“Land of the Humwhere. Some 166 species of birds have been spotted mingbird”. There at the Centre — hummingbirds, bananaquits, honeyare 17 species on creepers, and tanagers are the most common. Books the island. on T&T’s natural environment are on sale at the gift shop. asawright.org

Yerette This is a chance to sit and have tea surrounded by hummingbirds. The Fergusons allow visitors to take tours of their garden, where 13 species of hummingbirds have been photographed, along with scores of other birds. There are three tours daily. Meals featuring cuisine made with alllocal ingredients and all-natural local juices are also available. yerette.com Ruby topaz hummingbird. Photo by Theo Ferguson

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UWI Zoology Museum

Valencia Eco-Resort

Located at the Natural Sciences building at the University of the West Indies (UWI), St Augustine, this is the largest and most significant collection of zoological specimens in Trinidad & Tobago. Free admission; tours available 8am–4pm, Monday–Friday. sta.uwi.edu/fst/lifesciences/zoology.asp

This sprawling retreat covers ten acres of land in Valencia and is a wonderful family escape in the east. Attractions include a butterfly and bird sanctuary, 95 varieties of trees, a river, a mini-zoo, greenhouses, a tilapia pond, outdoor cooking sheds, plus a basketball court, football field, cricket pitch, and a pool. The resort uses solar water heating, composting and 100% recycling. valenciaecoresort.com

Central Trinidad

Dawn breaks over the Caroni Swamp. Photo by Chris Anderson

The Winston Nanan Caroni Swamp & Bird Sanctuary This is one of Trinidad’s most popular eco attractions — home and roosting ground of the stunning scarlet ibis, Trinidad’s national bird, plus 100 other species of birds, anteaters, raccoons, caimans, snakes and opossums. It was recognised in the 1996 Ramsar Convention as a wetland of international importance, placing a legal obligation on the government to ensure the area is protected and maintained. The roughly 60sq km sanctuary, just off the Solomon Hochoy Highway, comprises tidal lagoons, marshland and mangrove forest bordering the Gulf of Paria, between the mouth of the Caroni and Madame Espagnole rivers. You can buy tickets for boat tours on site (many boat tours depart at 4pm to catch flocks of ibis coming home to roost, though some can be booked all day), or arrange with a reputable tour company. Kayak tours are also available.

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Blue herons and a white ibis in flight at the Caroni Swamp. Photo by Chris Anderson

The Hanuman Murti & Dattatreya Yoga Centre

The Tamana Bat Caves

Churches, temples, kingdom halls, mandirs, faith centres and mosques stand side by side in the Trinidad landscape. One of the most impressive structures is the 26m/85ft statue of the Hindu god Hanuman, the Hindu monkey god of strength, donated by an Indian swami, and the tallest of its kind outside India. Consecrated in 2003, it towers over the adjoining Dattatreya Yoga Centre mandir and ashram at Orange Field Road.

A series of lengthy limestone cave systems in Mount Tamana (the highest of the Montserrat Hills) is home to huge colonies of bats (12 different species), thousands strong, which leave the caverns en masse to feed before dusk. Some claim there can be over a million. Go with a reputable, experienced guide who can ensure both your safety and minimal impact on the natural environment.

Did you know?

The Nariva Swamp & Bush-Bush Sanctuary

Trinidadian Dr Joseph Lennox Pawan discovered the transmission of rabies by vampire bats to humans in 1933, leading to the development of a vaccine for the virus. Other Trinis have made significant contributions to modern science, including Dr Bertrand Achong, co-discoverer of the EpsteinBarr Virus.

One of Trinidad’s most significant wildlife areas and (like the Caroni Swamp) a Ramsar Site, Nariva is the only place in Trinidad to see the endangered manatee or sea cow, which can grow up to 3m/10ft in length, weighing about 900kg/1,985lbs. There are also resident red howler monkeys, anteaters, porcupines, capuchin monkeys, caiman and birds like the orange-winged parrot, yellow-capped Amazon parrot, savannah hawk, agoutis, tegus, cascadura (armoured catfish), anacondas (the heaviest reptile in the world, and the longest in the Americas, which can grow up to 9m/30ft long), and other endangered species like redbellied macaws and owls. At the Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary you will find channel-billed toucans and tree-climbing porcupine. Scarlet ibis also roost here. You will need a tour guide and permit to explore the swamp, by kayak, boat or (in the dry months) on foot.

The Waterloo Temple in the Sea Off the Southern Main Road — 150m/500ft out into the Gulf of Paria at the end of a causeway — lies the “floating mandir”. It’s the reconstruction of a Hindu temple built single-handedly over 25 post-war years by Siewdass Sadhu, a sugar labourer (whose statue is in the temple’s parking lot). Forbidden to build a temple on land, he built it in the sea instead, beyond the control of colonial officials and land owners. The effect of sea erosion prevented Sadhu from completing it, but in 1994, the government finished it in time to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the first arrival of Indian indentured workers. At low tide, the mudflats around the temple are excellent for bird-watching. The causeway is generally open 6am–6pm: the temple itself is open at the caretaker’s discretion.

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The silky anteater lives in mangroves and trees in Trinidad. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

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The Southland Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust & Oropouche Lagoon Celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, the Wildfowl Trust is a must-see for any nature-lover, or anyone wanting a restorative retreat. Located about 45 minutes south of Port of Spain, on the Petrotrin refinery grounds at Pointe-à-Pierre, this nonprofit Trust encompasses 32 hectares and two fresh-water lakes, with free-roaming wildlife and enclosed breeding areas. It’s the only eco-centre in the world located within an oil refinery complex. Over 86 species have been recorded here. The aviculture programmes breed five endangered waterfowl species (wild ducks) as well as the scarlet ibis (the national bird), and the blue and gold macaw. Visitors can get close to these beautiful birds. Over the years, the Trust has bred and released several thousand birds back into the wild. Wooden walkways take you right around two lakes, which are full of water lilies and lotus flowers, and there are several natural walks and interpretive trails including Faerie Woods, Forest Walk and Devil’s Ear Trail. The learning centre at the entrance provides a photographic display of the reserve’s plant life, insects, shells, and a small First Peoples Museum. For those wanting to stay overnight, the Trust’s Petrea Place offers lodging and meals. Over its 50 years, the Trust has been a pioneering force for environmental conservation, education, and sustainable development. It will be celebrating its landmark achievements from November 2015 to November 2016. Reservations are required to visit. 658-4200 x 2512, papwildfowltrust.org Photos courtesy the Wildfowl Trust

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Water lily. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

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A caiman. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

The San Fernando Hill Once a sacred First Peoples site known as Naparima, the Hill stands like a monument in the midst of all the industry and construction of south Trinidad, offering fantastic views of the city and both ends of the island. The hill itself was badly gouged by quarrying, but has since been developed into a recreation area. The entry off Royal Road takes you straight up to the summit. Open daily, free of charge, 9am–6pm. The Pitch Lake. Photo courtesy TDC

The La Brea Pitch Lake

Banwari Trace

About 90 minutes from Port of Spain, this extraordinary natural phenomenon may look like an enormous car park after a rain shower, but is in fact the largest of only three natural asphalt lakes in the world (the other two are in Venezuela and Los Angeles). Ever-replenished by bitumen oozing from a geological fault (a 12x12m/40x40ft hole refills within three days), this 95-acre, 107m/350ft deep “lake” has been mined and its fine asphalt exported since 1859, supplying roads and airport runways around the world. Most of the surface is firm enough to walk on, though some spots are too soft for traffic. Natural springs, reputed to have healing properties, appear at the centre during the rainy season. You will see small bubbling puddles and smell the gases that escape from within.

The oldest evidence of human activity on Caribbean soil is in Trinidad: the archaeological site at Banwari Trace has yielded artefacts dating back to 5,000BC, belonging to the Ortoiroid people (named after the Ortoire river). “Banwari Man”, the human skeleton found lying in a crouched burial position by the Trinidad & Tobago Historical Society in 1969, is preserved at UWI. Banwari Trace was included in the 2004 World Monuments Watch by the World Monuments Fund. Access requires permission through the National Trust (which a tour guide can arrange).

Legend has it that a tribe of First Peoples was swallowed by the lake as punishment for eating hummingbirds, which hosted the spirits of their ancestors. In fact, this slow-motion “black hole” constantly pulls things into itself, and is said to have “feelers” stretching outward for several miles, veins of pitch extending from the main lake. A small museum houses artefacts recovered from the lake. La Brea Pitch Lake Tour Guides Association: 651-1232

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Our top eco escapes & adventures Hiking For beginners:

For intermediate hikers:

Edith Falls (Chaguaramas, north-western peninsula): a 30-40 minute hike to a 76m/250ft waterfall Maracas Falls (Maracas/St Joseph Valley): 30-45 minute trek to Trinidad’s tallest waterfall (91m/299ft) Rio Seco Falls (Salybia, northeast coast): a 45-60 minute hike. The falls include a lovely natural swimming pool. Part of the Matura National Park.

Turure Water Steps (Cumaca): a roughly 60 minute hike to the bathing pools at the natural limestone Steps with their unique rock face Paria Bay (north coast): a roughly 2 hour hike from Blanchisseuse to Turtle Rock and on to Cathedral Rock/Paria Arch and the white sand beach, where turtles nest in season. A waterfall lies about 15 minutes up river. Also accessible via Brasso Seco.

For advanced hikers: Saut d’Eau (Paramin, northwest Trinidad): roughly a 3 hour trek going downhill to the secluded beachfront…followed by the challenging (and more time-consuming) ascent back to the top Madamas Bay: roughly 3 hours from Matelot or 5 hours from Blanchisseuse to the beach and river at Madamas Bay and nearby waterfall. Also accessible by boat. Turtles nest here in season El Tucuche (north): hiking to the summit of Trinidad’s second tallest mountain takes 2–4 hours (depending on fitness levels, path, stops, and final destination) via Hobal Trace in Maracas Valley, passing through legs with dramatic names like the Devil’s Staircase. This is one of the most challenging and rewarding hikes in Trinidad. What’s more, this mountain has two peaks.

Important things to note: Always carry water, food and first aid supplies, and some dry clothes, in a waterproof bag. Black clothing is the hottest, and attracts mosquitoes. Wear long trousers for bush treks, and comfortable, waterproof shoes with good grip — no open-toed sandals Only go with a reputable guide And please, don’t leave any litter behind.

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Turure Water Steps. Photo by Chris Anderson

Turtle-watching From March to September, Trinidad takes on a very important role: the second largest leatherback turtle nesting site in the world is at Grande Rivière. Leatherbacks are the largest surviving turtle species in the world. Hawksbill, green, and other turtle species, all of which (and their eggs) are legally protected, also come up on the north and east coasts. During nesting months, females heave themselves on to the shore, laboriously digging their nests in the sand before laying, then covering the eggs over and returning to the sea. Two months later, the eggs hatch, and the baby turtles dig themselves out of their nests and hustle — awkwardly and adorably — to the open sea. Few survive the predators and make it to maturity, but those females that do then return to the beaches on which they were born to begin the cycle anew.

Turtle watching essentials

Do not touch or disturb nesting turtles or hatchlings in any way. Give them ample space Lights (including flash photography), noise and activity tend to disorient both turtles and hatchlings Do not drive on nesting beaches; the weight of the vehicle can crush eggs buried in the sand The Turtle Village Trust is an umbrella body for the islands’ leading turtle conservation groups — Nature Seekers; the Grande Rivière Nature Tour Guide Association; the Matura to Matelot (M2M) Network; the Fishing Pond Turtle Conservation Group; and SOS Tobago. turtlevillagetrust.org, 6385953/674-4213

Access to these nesting beaches, particularly Grande Rivière and Matura, is restricted to prevent poaching and to allow the turtles to nest and young hatchlings to emerge undisturbed. They already have to contend with fishing nets, sargassum, plastics, natural predators, and disconcerting man-made light (they follow the light of the moon). Tour operators (and some hotels) can arrange necessary permits and access. Turtles are said to come ashore in greatest numbers late at night and during the full moon, though there are instances of nesting during daylight hours.

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A giant leatherback turtle nesting. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

Did you know? Sir David Attenborough filmed many bird sequences from his acclaimed documentary The Trials of Life here in Trinidad.

Bird-watching The peak birding season runs from November to May, though birding is rewarding year-round — you can see dozens of species in a single outing, all over the island. The best places are the Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust, Asa Wright Nature Centre, Caroni and Nariva swamps, Yerette, and the Hollis Dam & Reservoir. See our Sightseeing section above for more. Some species to look out for: golden-headed manakins, tanagers, blue-headed parrots, channel-billed toucans, trogons, honeycreepers, hummingbirds, hawks, bellbirds, common potoo, herons, ospreys, kingfishers, grey-headed kite, squirrel cuckoo, warblers, and of course the scarlet ibis.

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A bay headed tanager. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

77 77

A good sport

rinidadians take their sporting activities almost as seriously as they take their parties and cultural celebrations. And more often than not there’s some partying involved. With an eye for developing a sports tourism industry, Trinidad — like Tobago — has been expanding its sporting infrastructure. Here’s a taste of just some of the island’s most popular sports, where to catch them, and how to get involved.

Athletics T&T has always been a quiet force in track and field, with athletes winning coveted hardware at the Olympics and other international meets. Locals get to see national and international stars in action at the annual Hampton Games (Hasely Crawford Stadium in Port of Spain). National Amateur Athletics Association: naaatt.org

Cricket Perhaps the only sport to rival football’s popularity, cricket has gained new interest thanks to the Twenty/20 format. The Queen’s Park Oval is the capital of the nation’s cricket activities for Twenty/20, one-day and test matches. Trinidad & Tobago Cricket Association: 636-1577, ttcricketboard.com

Cycling & mountain biking Presided over by the Trinidad & Tobago Cycling Federation, cycling features prominently in the islands’ sports tourism thrust. The Easter International Grand Prix and National Championships (at the Arima Velodrome) are highlights of the racing calendar. A new world-class National Cycling Veldrome in Couva was nearing completion at press time. Mountain biking is a sport that’s also gaining popularity from locals and tourists alike. Trails in Chaguaramas are ideal for beginners. Other locations include the Santa Cruz valley and the Matura to Matelot stretch, and Blanchisseuse to Morne La Croix Road. A 1,000km biking and hiking trail along the north coast is under development. Go with a reputable guide or biking group. Cricketer Dwayne Bravo. Photo courtesy WICB Media/Ashley Allen

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Swimmer Kristen Julien. Photo by Maria Nunes

Golf Trinidad has three 18-hole courses: St Andrew’s Golf Club in Moka, Trincity’s Millennium Lakes, and Petrotrin’s Pointeà-Pierre Golf Club. Nine-hole courses exist at Brechin Castle, Usine St Madeleine and Chaguaramas. Trinidad & Tobago Golf Association: 629-7127, ttgolfassociation.org

Football (soccer) Probably the nation’s favourite sport. Several Trinidadian footballers play in foreign premier leagues. T&T has hosted the FIFA World (men’s) Under-17 championships and Women’s Under-17 FIFA world championships, while the national team — the Soca Warriors — represented T&T as the smallest nation ever to qualify for the World Cup finals in 2006. The multi-purpose Hasely Crawford (Port of Spain), Manny Ramjohn (Marabella), Larry Gomes (Arima), Ato Boldon (Couva) and Marvin Lee stadiums are the main venues. Trinidad & Tobago Football Federation (TTFF): 623-7312, ttffonline.com • T&T Pro League: 645-4489, ttproleague.com

Horse-riding Dressage and show jumping instruction is available from Bays & Greys Riding Centre (Santa Cruz); Jericho Stables (St Ann’s); Goodwin Heights (St Ann’s); Birtwyck Park (Piarco); Saddle Valley Stables (Santa Cruz); Sandy Hill Stables (Freeport); Valmont Stables (Santa Cruz); and Horses Helping Humans (Maracas). For trail riding, contact Hidden Valley (Chaguaramas) or Bonanza Stud Farm (Arima). Trinidad & Tobago Equestrian Association: ttequestrian.org • Horses Helping Humans: hhhtrinidad.weebly.com

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Swimming & aquatics

More sports!

A new world-class National Aquatics Centre was nearing completion at press time, intended to be a hub for local sports including water polo and diving, as well as to attract international swim events as part of a sports tourism thrust. Amateur Swimming Association of Trinidad & Tobago: swimtt.com

Tennis Tennis is a vibrant sport in Trinidad, especially at junior level. There are public courts at Nelson Mandela Park in St Clair; and courts for hourly rental at the Trinidad Country Club (Maraval) and some hotels. Reservations are needed to use public courts. Also as part of the nation’s sports tourism thrust, a National Tennis Complex is being constructed in Tacarigua. Trinidad and Tobago Tennis Association, 625-3030, tennistt.info Tennis player Emma Davis. Photo by Maria Nunes

For much more on Trinidad’s sporting scene — including basketball, bodybuilding, dragon boat racing, hashing, hockey, horse racing, kayaking, martial arts, motor sports, netball, sport fishing, sailing, surfing, yoga, and more, visit our website at www.discovertnt.com.

Some Trinidadian sporting heroes

Stephen Ames: world top 25 golfer with four major PGA titles, including historic victory over all-star field with Tiger Woods at the Players Championship (2006) Ato Boldon: four-time Olympic medallist (2 silver, 2 bronze for 100m and 200m, 1996 and 2000), and 200m World Championship gold medallist (1997) George Bovell III: the nation’s first Olympic medallist in swimming, winning Olympic bronze in the 200m individual medley (2004), and several other international medals Hasely Crawford: our first Olympic gold medallist, winning the men’s 100m (1976) Brian Lara: multiple record-holding cricketer with two test match score records (375 runs not out in 1994 and 400 not out in 2004); highest first class score (501 not out, also in 1994); and all-time leading run scorer in test cricket Keshorn Walcott: first black male athlete and the youngest to win a gold medal in javelin (2012 Olympics), after holding multiple junior records. Also gold medalist at the Other Contacts 2015 Pan Am Games Sporting Company of Trinidad & Tobago: sportt-tt.com Rodney Wilkes: nation’s first OlymTrinidad & Tobago Olympic pic medallist for weightlifting (silver in Committee: ttoc.org 1948, bronze in 1952).

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crossword PUZZLE 1

1 21

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ACROSS 1 3 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 19 20 21 24 25 26 27 28 30 31

The Arima Race Club, to start with (3) Famous nature reserve near Port of Spain (6,5) Tasty Trinidadian snack twice over (7) One of these will help shield your eyes from 22 Down (5) The highway east from Port of Spain was named for Roosevelt and this famous man (9) French refusal (3) Hot and dry (4) Ours is often called the information --- (3) Flat-bottomed boats used for freight (6) Dreamlike, illusory (6) The University of Trinidad and Tobago, for starters (3) Mrs Perón, perhaps (3) Drive on this side in the US, but not in Trinidad (5) By the end of an indulgent holiday, you may well have done this (9) Mostly childhood disease with vivid red rash (7) Turn ape around to become a vegetable (3) Sunshine and fresh ---, just what the doctor ordered (3) Trinidad’s second city (3,8) The festival that ends the fasting month of Ramadan (3) discovertnt.com discovertnt.com

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17 18 22 23 25 29

Material or financial help given by one country to another (3) Fashion designer who makes customised clothes (9) Printed cotton fabric (6) One thing most people want to be doing on holiday (7) When the bowler crosses the line (2,4) The wide open park in uptown Port of Spain (8) Malicious burning of buildings or property (5) Trinidad and Tobago’s capital (4,2,5) Trinidad’s northwestern peninsula (11) Annual power boat competition from Trinidad to Tobago (5,4) Trinidadian Christmas treat (8) The national musical instrument (8) One thing visitors crave in the Caribbean (3,3) Ice-cream for Italians (6) The smallest unit of sand on the beach (5) This House overlooks Woodford Square (3)

Advertiser listings staott Royal Hotel KAPOK HOTEL Kapok Hotel, Trinidad’s finest boutique hotel, is perfectly located, just outside the capital city of Port of Spain. Enjoy delicious artisan brick oven pizzas and trendy cocktails at KAVA Restaurant, or indulge your senses at Tiki Village, serving Asian/Polynesian cuisine perched high above the treetops, with the most breath-taking panoramic views of the city. We invite you to come, stay, taste, and enjoy. Visit us online at kapokhotel.com or call (868) 622-5765 for reservations.

Under the shade of sentinel samaan trees resides a colonial-styled hotel, steeped in the traditions of excellent service, hospitality and the warmth of our Caribbean spirit. Located in San Fernando, about 15 minutes from the city centre and five minutes’ walk from San Fernando Hill, the Royal Hotel cordially invites you to join us for a unique experience. Visit the Landmark Bar for an after-work drink, or cocktails with friends. The Pavilion restaurant serves an eclectic mix of local and international cuisine. Contact us at info@royalhoteltt.com, or visit our website royalhoteltt.com 46-54 Royal Road, San Fernando (868) 652-4881

Small Tourism Accommodation Owners of Trinidad & Tobago (STAOTT), a hospitality arm of the Tourism Industry, provides bed & breakfast, self-catering, and host homes accommodation facilities. Located in safe environments within communities throughout the island, we offer our visitors diverse cultural experiences, a taste of local cuisine, and true Trinbagonian warmth. trinistay.com • staott3@gmail. com • (868) 683-6132 See ad on p9

Royal Palm Suites Located in Maraval, we provide affordable daily and monthly accommodation for families, business executives, and groups in 70 spacious rooms — 28 with kitchenettes. Amenities in the Royal Palm complex and nearby include wifi; a swimming pool; conference facilities; medical facilities; boutiques; and numerous dining options. royalpalm.co.tt (868) 628-5086/9 5086/9

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STAY HILTON. GO LOCAL. GO BUSINESS. GO RELAX. Visit us on our website: hiltontrinidadhotel.com or call 868-624-3211

west shore medical private hospital A new concept in local healthcare! West Shore Medical Private Hospital is a modern, well-equipped, purpose-built private hospital. Just minutes from downtown Port of Spain, off the westbound lane of the Cocorite highway, we also receive shallow craft via our sea

landing and small helicopters to the back. We are the only hospital accessible by land, sea and air. With sea views and beautiful evening sunsets, West Shore offers a serene environment that helps calm and heal. Here, you’ll find superb personal attention and afford-

able healthcare that’s always available when you need it. 239 Western Main Road, Cocorite, Trinidad

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the face and body clinic The Face and Body Clinic Limited seeks to bring tranquillity to both body and mind. We offer a wide range of delectable Spa Full Body Treatments, including anti-aging, stress reduction, and firming, to name a few! Come and experience a new world of possibilities at any of our four locations. Park Street, San Fernando (868) 223-2345/2346 Caroni Savannah Road (868) 671-4020/7941 Alexandra Street, St Clair (868) 628-9250/9521 Magdalena Grand Beach Resort, Tobago (868) 631-0038/0039 faceandbodyclinic.com • info@faceandbodyclinic.com See ad on p25

Puzzle solution

subway

ACROSS 1 ARC 3 Asa Wright 9 Doubles 10 Visor 11 Churchill 12 Non 13 Arid 14 Age 15 Barges 19 Unreal 20 UTT 21 Eva 24 Right 25 Overeaten 26 Measles 27 Pea 28 Air 30 San Fernando 31 Eid DOWN 1 Aid 2 Couturier 3 Calico 4 Resting 5 No ball 6 Savannah 7 Arson 8 Port of Spain 11 Chaguaramas 16 Great Race 17 Pastelle 18 Steelpan 22 Hot sun 23 Gelato 25 Grain 29 Red

SUBWAY and “Eating Fresh” have been part of T&T for over 20 years. With 46 restaurants nationwide, Subway has continued to be the preferred brand for a healthy, delicious meal. Wherever you are in Trinidad & Tobago, there is a SUBWAY offering great tasting, healthy eating near you!

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Advertiser listings

zanzibar kaizan sushi Welcome to Kaizan Sushi, a truly different kind of dining and entertainment experience. Kaizan Sushi offers Trinidad’s most authentic Japanese cuisine, with an extensive selection of sushi and other Asianinspired dishes. Patrons can choose from a wide variety of Kaizan’s appetizers, signature rolls, hot classics, and other Asian dishes. So put Kaizan Sushi on your “to do” list during your visit to Trinidad & Tobago. MovieTowne (868) 623-5437 or 222-4441 Price Plaza (868) 672-1815

Welcome to Zanzibar, a truly different dining and entertainment experience. Zanzibar offers memorable dining and liming in a unique environment, an inimitable blend of Trinidadian and international styles. Experience fine dining in a casual atmosphere, and choose from our broad menu featuring international dishes prepared by our celebrated chefs. So put Zanzibar on your “to do” list during your visit to Trinidad and Tobago. MovieTowne (868) 627-0752 Zanzibar by the Sea (868) 634-3346 Price Plaza (868) 672-1376

caribbean discovery tours Stephen Broadbridge and Caribbean Discovery Tours offer custom-designed nature and cultural itineraries featuring expert guiding though forested mountains, rivers, waterfalls, secluded beaches, vast exotic wetlands, and diverse cultures of villages and communities. Their clientele includes eco-adventure and family vacationers, bird-watchers, scientists, university faculties, and film and television crews. Package itineraries (inclusive of local transportation and accommodation) are also available. (868) 624-7281/620-1989 caribbeandiscoverytours.com

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King St

St Vincent Rd

Ca ne St

Mt Moriah Rd

Jarv is

L Lee

Berna

and

Sin a

Alexander Rd

Po in

d er R and Alex t t ll S nS e o rt rc ha Pu W

Panco Lane

Water Taxi Terminal

Rostant

Solo

Montano St

Hu ne A ve

ar i

a Rd bell Vista

rth No

Queen St

Fish Market

Zuc

Waddel St

St ong Ale

King's Wharf

Lo nd on

St Arch

St rd wfo t Cra her S

PTSC Bus Terminus

al St Centr

GULF OF PARIA

t sS bb Gi Herrera St

ck St

Manja

rally Oge

Lange St

Guppy St

th Sou

St nce t Ra

Gulf City Mall South Trunk Rd To Solomon Hochoy Highway

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TAXI STANDS

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Mar acas

Mac que ripe Bay

Bay

Trini Diego Martin

Huevos

ama guar

Cha Monos Scotland Bay

Paramin

Santa Cruz

Chacachacare

Map Key Post Office

Beach without Facilities

Waterfall

Police Station

Cinema

Sailing

Park

Caves

Fort

Hospital

Gas Station

Church

Port

Bird Watching

Airport

Turtle Nesting

Golf Course

Shopping Centre

Viewpoint

Lighthouse

Scuba Diving

PORT OF SPAIN

San Juan El Socorro

Chaguanas

Food Available

Cycling

Snorkelling

Sporting Grounds

Point Lisas

Couva California Claxton Bay

Swimming Lifeguard on Duty

Pointe-a-Pierre

Highway

St. Mary's Oropouche Lagoon

Point Fortin

Fyzabad Siparia

Granville

Los Bajos Palo Seco

San Francique Quinam Bay

Icacos

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Ste. Madele

Pri

Debe

Barr Penal

Cap De Ville

Erin Bay

Gaspa

La Brea

Vessigny

Icacos Point

Tor

Vistabella

SAN FERNANDO

Major roadway

Pitch Lake

Cedros

Carapichaim

Waterloo

Watersports

Place of interest

Sunbathing

Curepe

Caroni Bird Sanctuary

Surfing

Volcano

Kayaking

a rat

Swamp Beach with Restrooms

ria

Morvant Gaspar Grande

Tyr ico Ba Las y Cue vas

Saly b

ia B ay

idad Galera Point

Toco

Grande Riviere Matelot Blanchisseuse

Redhead

Rampanalgas

Brasso Seco Asa Wright Nature Centre

Lopinot

ph a se Jo pun ua St. una rig ca T ca Ta ou Ar

Balandra Bay Saline (Sally) Bay

Matura Arima

Valencia Matura Bay

Piarco

Jerningham Junction

Salybia

Hollis Reservoir

Cumuto

Piarco Intl. Airport

Guaico

Sangre Grande

San Rafael

Cunupia

Cunaripa Coryal

Talparo

Longdenville

Manzanilla

Caroni-Arena Reservoir

ma Todds Road

Freeport

Biche Manzanilla Bay

Gran Couva Tabaquite

rtuga

Nariva Swamp and Bush-Bush Sanctuary

Piparo

arillo

. eine

Navet Dam

Brasso

Busy Corner Poole New Grant

inces Town

Indian Walk

St. Joseph Rio Claro

Mayaro

Tableland

Devil's Woodyard

Mayaro Bay

rackpore

Basse Terre

Guayaguayare Rushville

Galeota Point

Moruga

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Maraval

St Lu cia

Blvd

Jam aica

ne Rd Serpenti

MovieTowne

Pole Carew St

Sieg

Gall us S t Albe rto

Petr a St Ana St

Taylor St O’C onn or De Ver teuil St

Luis

e ierr nP Jea mplex Co

Ros alin o

Albe rto S t

Gall us S t

ARIA PITA AVEN UE Ana St

Bell e Sm ythe

Ham ilton Hol der St Den nis Mah abir St Petr a St

HIGHWAY

Hasely Crawford Stadium

St ian Hu am n Ha D Kel Bra ter S l mi b t lto y Ke ant nS nn St yS t t

Broome St

Nelson Mand

Digicel Imax

Fatima Sports Grounds

St Mary’s Sports Grounds

Week es St Niz am Hen St ry P ie Nep St rre aul St G Caw Joh aston nsto npo n St re S Ben t ares St Luc kno wS t

Clare nce S t

St James Police Baracks

One Woodbrook Place

H Pank a St yderab ad Woodbrook Cemetery

MUC URA PO

Grenada

Bombay St Baro Calcu da S t tta St

Bengal St

St Mooneram

Brunton

Bournes Rd

Dengue St

Sakar St

Anders on St

Ethel St

S ER FF JE

Pujadas St

John S Techin

www.republictt.com Taxi Stands

Finla nd

Vida le St

Salaz ar St

Laza re St

Rd Bay

Rom eo St

Coron ation Luck put S t Math ura

Link Cocorite, Westmoorings, Chaguaramas

EY DR AU

p o r t o f s p a i n

Delhi St

Long Circular Rd

l abra Kathle rge C en St Geo Ranjit K umar S Angeli t na Quam ina Church St WEST ERN Carlto MAIN n Ave RD

St James Medical Complex

Park

Trinidad Cres cent r Dominic D a u a Antig Nevis Ave d dos R Barba

Long Circular Mall

Madra s St Agra St

Patna St

Kandahar St

Ellerslie

St Anns/St James/Queens Park Savannah

Ariapita Avenue/ Chaguaramas/Carenage

Belmont

Curepe Tunapuna/ Arima/Sangre Grande

Cascade

Diego Martin/Petit Valley

San Juan

Maraval

Wrightson Rd/Long Circular

Chaguaramas

Cocorite

Chaguanas/San Fernando

POS General Hospital

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Maraval & Maracas

Hayes St

Cadiz Rd

St Charlotte

Ob se rva to ry

Henry St

Pembroke St

St Vincent

Abercromby St

Charlotte St

Melbourne St Richmond St

Duke St Hall of Justice City Hall Red Knox St House Woodford Sq Hart St National Library

Water Taxi

South Quay

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4 Prince St

Queen St

INDEPENDENCE SQ/BRIAN 7

Pic cad il

LARA PROMENADE 9

Eastern Main Rd

ARIA

lk Norfo

Oxford St

Frederick St

Dere St

Borde St

Sackville St London St Government Campus Plaza

OF P

New St

Charles St

In Wa ternat terf ron ional t Ce ntre

General Hospital

Gordon St

Park St

Victoria Sq

Com plex

GULF

Dundonald St Chancery Lane

Victoria Ave

Cipriani Boulevard

illi ps St

Fra se rS t

Port of Spain

Keate St

Chacon St

hip

Melville

Shine St

ise S

Memorial Park

NAPA National Museum

Edward St

Scott Bushe St

SO N

Fire Station

Cru

Albion St

Lapeyrouse Cemetery

Stone St

Licensing Office

Sa ckv ille

Bu ller

Ga tac re S t

St Kitc he ne r

Me M thue cD nS t on ald St WR IG HT

S Donaldson nal Institute

ET E

QUEEN’S PARK WEST

Stanmore Ave

Warner St

TR AG AR

Fre nch St

Fitt

Cor nelio St

Ba de nP ow ell

Jerningham Ave

Woodford St

Picton St

Marli St

Flament St

Alexandra

Maraval Rd

Rust St

Mur ray St

Carlo s St

Alfr edo St

Palmiste St

Industry

Alcazar St

Mur ray St

QUEEN’S PARK SAVANNAH

ular Circ ont Belm

Erthig Rd

Herbert St

A Sm dam ith Sq

Co ble nt zA ve g Rd Youn Lady

Queen’s Royal College

Gray St

Elizabeth St

Lad y Chanc ellor Rd

Magnificent Sev en Maraval Rd

Mary St

inc en t

St V

Havelock St

Luis

Ros alin o

Hilton Hotel

Morvant, Barataria, Churchill Roosevelt Highway

ET E

sS t Alfre do S t Car los St

Queen’s Hall

EAST ARK ’S P E EN QU

gert Sq

Emperor Valley Zoo

Sweet Briar Rd

TR AG AR

Horticultural Society

Archer St

lip

Queen’s Park Oval

Ro be rts

Nook Ave Prime Min ister’s and Diplom Residence atic Centre La Fantas ie President’s House

Botanical Gardens

Flood St Jackson Flood St Sq

St Clair Medical

dela Park

Cas cad e

Prada S t

ne Rd Serpenti

Cotton Hill

bold New

righ inw Wa

Lam my St

Scott S t -Phil well Max

St Kitts Ave

t St t Vallo S m llia i W

Cascade

le Rd Sadd

Ellerslie Plaza Rapse y St

St Ann’s

Terminus/City Gate

NORTH WEST TRINIDAD

a e

Chaguaramas G Course

vos Hue

Monos

de Monos

a de Boc

e Boca Grand

s vio No de ca Bo

Huevos

Scot land Bay

The Dragon's Mouth

Edith Falls

Morne Catherine

Teteron Bay

Chacachacare

Gaspar Grande

Western Main Rd

Pe Go

Gasparee Caves

Dieg

See map key on fold out Trinidad map

discovertnt.com

River Estate & Waterwheel

Tracking Station

Rd Sad dle Ft George

Cocor

Chagville

etite ourde

Rd lar

ite

Queens Park Savannah

St James

West Mall

St Ann's

Lady Young

Pt Cumana

Maraval

irc ng C u Lo

Glencoe

Carenage

St Andrew's Golf Course

rne Coco Rd

Casca de

n M ain

Carenage Bay

ster

ain R rtin M o Ma Dieg

rk Pa od wo od Go

e ag ren Ca

Starlite Shopping Centre

Santa Cruz

Petit Valley

Paramin

Diego Martin

EY TUCKER VALL

Golf

North C oast Rd

Blue Basin Bagatelle

Maracas Bay & North Coast

North Post

Macqueripe Bay

St Clair

Belmont Carrera

Five Islands

Woodbrook

Wr igh tso nR d PORT OF SPAIN

Laventille Indep endence Sq

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NORTH EAST TRINIDAD C

Grande Tacaribe Bay

ia Par

B use isse nch Bla

y a Ba Yarr

Bay

ico Tyr Bay

sB raca Ma

Bay as uev

C Las

La Fillette Chupara Pt Pt

Mada B

La Fillete

Rd st oa C h

Blanchisseuse

Paria

rt No Las Cuevas

Rincon Brasso Seco

Santa Cruz

Eastern Main Rd El Socorro

Ta ca rig ua Lopinot Rd

Sa nJ ua n

Lopinot

e a tin University of us un the West Indies Aug ap n t S Tu

Curepe

Arouca

Valsayn

San Fernando

See map key on fold out Trinidad map

discovertnt.com

ARIMA

D'Abadie

Trincity Mall NGC National Science Centre

San Fernando

Cleaver Woods

Tur Rd Aripo

Bar ata ria

St Jo se ph

Guanapo Gorge

d napo R of Gua

Mt St Benedict Monastery

Aripo Heights

La Pastora Caura

Hollis

La Laja

Cave

isseuse Rd

Cau ra R oyal Road

Saddle Rd

El Cerro del Aripo (941m)

Sombasson

Asa Wright Nature Centre Dunstan

La Veronica

Arima-Blanch

d lR ya Ro

Port of Spain

Maracas Falls as rac Ma

Port of Spain

El Tucuche (936m) N

Waller

Santa Rosa Race Track

San

Grand Matelot Pt

damas Bay

Trail Coast North

Matelot Bay

Salybia Bay

Galera Pt

Toco ain Rd Paria M

Matelot

i ouc sS San

iere Riv nde Gra Bay

Grande Riviere

Cumana

Cumana Bay

Madamas

Rampanalgas

Cumaca Rio Seco

s Reservoir

rure Water Steps

ia nc ale

rfield

ngre Grande

Salybia

Cumaca

Toco

Balandra

Saline Bay Matura Bay

Matura

www.republictt.com Sangre Grande & East Coast

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SOUTH TRINIDAD

Pointe-à-Pie

SAN FERNANDO

Gulf of Paria La Romaine Pitch Lake La Brea Vessigny

Oropouche Lagoon Banw

Mon Desir Pt Fortin Rd

Trace

nT ru

Fyzabad

So u

th er

Chatham North

Granville Eri d nR

Cedros Bay Fullarton

Columbus Bay

Chatham South

Bonasse

See map key on fold out Trinidad map

Erin ( San Francique)

Erin Los Iros Pt

Icacos

discovertnt.com

ern nF

ip o-S

d in R

-Er

a ari

Palo Seco

Quinam

Siparia

Tabaquite

Sangre Grande

lar

Nariva Swamp

Cunapo Rd

Solomon Hochoy Highway

erre

Port of Spain

uit

Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust

Naparima-Mayaro Rd

Rio Claro

N a pari ma Rd

Indian Walk

Mayaro

Tableland Mayaro-Guayag

Devil's Woodyard Mud Volcano

Princes Town

Ortoire River

Sixth Company

uayare Rd

Third Company

Debe

wari e

Barrackpore TRINITY HILLS WILDLIFE SANCTUARY & RESERVE

Penal Rock Rd

Guayaguayare

Basse Terre

TRI La Lune

LLS

NIT

Morne Diablo

Mayaro Bay

St Madeleine

Moruga

Galeota Pt

Guayaguayare Bay N

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discovertnt.com

central r im a -B l

Lopinot

Blanchisseuse & North Coast an

Tunapuna ca

San Juan

ino L o p

C a u r a

r a c a

y a l R

PORT OF

ddle

Port of Spain

Grand Bazaar

El Socorro

ou Trincity Mall

Valpark Shopping Plaza

Valsayn

Caroni

rc h i ll - R o o s e v e l t H ig hw a y

Piarco

u Uriah B

Caroni Swamp and Bird Sanctuary

hway

tler Hig

San Rafael Divali Nagar

Cunupia

C Are &R

CARONI PLAIN

Longdenville

he ut

Brechin Castle

Freeport

Solomon Hocho

Pt Lisas Industrial Estate

Southern Main Rd

California

a in

y Highway

Couva

Mundo Nuevo

Chicklands

Flanagin Town

La Vega Garden Centre M a a in R d C ouv

Brasso

Pepper Village

Gran Couva

Tabaquite

MONSTERRAT HILLS Tortuga

Brasso Venado L R A N T E C Navet Dam & Reservoir

Tabaquite Tunnel

Rd uite

Mayo

Claxton Bay

a Tab

Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust

Piparo

Brickfield

Pointe-à-Pierre Bargain San Fernando

Williamsville

See map key on fold out Trinidad map

St Mary's

Todd's Rd

Hanuman Murti

Friendship Hall

ORANGE ESTATE

Chase Village Potteries Carapichaima

Talparo

Waterloo

Piarco International Airport

St Helena

Chaguanas

Temple in the Sea

ARIMA

Curepe

discovertnt.com

Busy Corner

c ia R d

maca

Hollis Reservoir

Valencia a in R d Toc o M

Ea s te rn

M ai n R

Bay

Cumuto

SANGRE GRANDE

Cunaripa

www.republictt.com

Caroniena Dam Reservoir

Manzanilla Pt

Upper Manzanilla

Tamana Bat Caves Plum Mitan

tan

THE COCAL

iva r

Rive

Brigand Hill Lighthouse

Nar

G E A N

Plu

o ap

ern

Lower Manzanilla

Biche

nill

nza

Nariva Swamp & Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary

a-M

Cuche

r aya

Navet

Pt Radix

Navet River

Killdeer River

N a p a rim

a a M

y a ro

Mayaro

discovertnt.com

toba Map Key (applies to all maps) Police Station

Gas Station

Waterfall

Hospital

Bird Watching

Sailing & boat tours

Turtle Nesting

Golf Course

Fort

Shopping Centre

Scuba Diving

Airport

Lighthouse

Place of interest

Surfing

Beach with Restrooms

Food Available

Swamp

Caves

Museum

Lifeguard on Duty

Planned Highway

Highway

Eng lish ma n's B

Major roadway

Location of Republic Bank ABM

Cas tara Bay

Kin gP ete r's

Cul

Castara

Bay Mt Dillon

lode nB

Runnemede Culloden

Cuffie River Retrea

Moriah

Arnos Vale Bay

Turtle B Great Courla each nd Bay Ft Be Stone nnett haven Bay

on ge

Pi Pt Store Bay

Bon Accord Lagoon

Mt Irv

Buccoo Bay

Black Rock

Crown Point

Mt Irvine Buccoo

ANR Robinson Intl Airport Canoe Bay

Les Coteaux

Ply mo ut h

Scarborough Mall

Signal Hill

y wa igh el H o Lambeau eN ud Cla Little Rockly Bay

LOWLANDS

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Craig Hall

Rd de hsi t r No

Patience Hill

Gulf City

Mason Hall

Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve

Bethel

Milford Rd Ft Milford

Arnos Vale

Grafton Sanctuary

ine Ba y

Sh ir va n R d

BUCCOO REEF & NYLON POOL

Plymouth

Rockly Bay

Mt St George Barbados Bay

SCARBORO

Ft King George Bacolet Bay Bacolet Point

ago St Giles Islands

Sisters Rocks

Man-o'War Bay

Pirate's Bay

Flagstaff Hill

Charlotteville Parlatuvier Bay

L'Anse Fourmi

Bloody Bay

Speyside

y Parlatuvier Parrot Hill

Nature at

IN MA

EST OR E F G RID

OUGH

King's Bay Delaford

Rainbow Waterfall

Belle Garden

Richmond Glamorgan Pembroke

ind

Goat Island Little Tobago

Tyrrel's Bay

E ERV RES

Argyle Falls

Hillsborough Dam

Blue Waters

Roxborough Bellevue Prince's Bay Richmond Great House Carapuse Bay

Tobago Cocoa Estate

King's Bay

Delaford Bay

Richmond Island

Goldsborough Goodwood

Pin fold Gr Ba an y by Po int

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Charlotteville, Tobago. Photo by Chris Anderson

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Visitor information Arriving in t&T Scheduled carriers Aeropostal, American Airlines, Avior, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, Condor, Continental/United Airlines, Copa, Jet Blue, LIAT, Suriname Airways, and Virgin Atlantic service T&T from hubs in New York, Miami, Ft Lauderdale, Toronto and London. Charter flights also operate

is displayed in the arrivals area). If in doubt, check the taxi dispatcher Authorised private taxis have licence plates beginning with “H” (for “Hire”), and are not metered

Arriving by sea (yachts & sailing boats)

Airports Trinidad: Piarco International Airport (27km/17 miles from Port of Spain) Tobago: ANR Robinson International Airport (10km/7 miles from Scarborough)

Entering T&T You will need to show a passport valid for three months beyond your intended stay Non-residents must have documentation for return or onward travel and a local address Visas are generally not required for visits up to 30 days, but double-check with your airline or travel agent before leaving

Airport transfers Unless you are being met privately, take an “authorised taxi” from the airport to your destination, confirming the fare in advance (a list of fares

102

Arriving yachts should have a clearance certificate from the last port of call, and the vessel’s registration certificate (or authorisation for use) In Trinidad, check in with Customs & Immigration at CrewsInn in Chaguaramas In Tobago, check in with Customs & Immigration in Scarborough or Charlotteville Chaguaramas in Trinidad is the hub of yachting activity, with sheltered anchorage (Yachting Association) and strings of maintenance and repair yards, marinas and essential services

Cruise ships Several cruise lines visit Trinidad and Tobago, mostly out of Miami between November and April, including Carnival, Costa, Crystal, Fred Olsen, HapagLloyd, Holland America, MSC, P&O, Princess, Regent, Saga, Seabourn, Thomson, Voyages of Discovery, and Windstar

Getting around Private taxis Available at the airports and through the larger hotels, and in the Yellow Pages

Public taxis Public taxis (bearing “H” number plates) are not metered, so confirm the fare in advance: “Route taxis” (cars registered as taxis) and maxi-taxis (12- or 25-seat minibuses with brightly coloured bands) work specific routes, picking up and dropping off passengers anywhere along the way. They have designated stands in Port of Spain, San Fernando, Chaguanas, Scarborough and other main towns Maxi-taxis’s colour bands refer to their area they service: Black: San Fernando to Princes Town and Mayaro Blue: Tobago Brown: San Fernando to Point Fortin Green: Port of Spain to Chaguanas and San Fernando Red: Port of Spain to Arima, with connections to Blanchisseuse to Matelot Yellow: Port of Spain to Chaguaramas, Diego Martin and Petit Valley

Buses The Public Transport Service Corporation (PTSC, ptsc.co.tt) operates buses from Port of Spain to most towns, sometimes on an “express” basis, and from hubs in Chaguanas, San Fernando and Scarborough. Tickets ($2–12) or travel cards must be bought before boarding

Car rentals Local and international rental companies like Econo Car operate in both islands and at both airports

Tour operators See the touring sections under both Tobago and Trinidad, or check the Yellow Pages

Ferries Inter-island ferry service (Port of Spain–Scarborough) operated by Port Authority (ttitferry.com) on the T&T Express and T&T Spirit ferries (2.5hrs). Tickets are $100 return (adults); $50 (children under 11); while children under three and senior citizens (65+) travel free Trinidad Water Taxi: this west-coast service is operated by the National Infrastructure Development Company (nidco.co.tt). Single journeys are 30–45 minutes. Adult tickets are $10 (Port of Spain–Chaguaramas) and $15 (Port of Spain–San Fernando). Infants under the age of one travel free, and senior citizens (65+) travel free on off-peak sailings. For passengers wishing to connect from Chaguaramas to the Port of Spain service to San Fernando, a free shuttle service is offered

Air-bridge Caribbean Airlines (625-7200, caribbean-airlines.com) operates several flights a day (every 30 minutes) between Trinidad and Tobago. Tickets are $300 for a 20-minute round-trip

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Goats in Tobago. Photo by Chris Anderson

105

travel basics Money matters Money: ABMs (ATMs) and credit/ debit cards are routinely used Currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1= approximately TT$6.4 (floating exchange rate) Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; 15% VAT (value added tax) on most goods and services

Driving Driving: on the left. Seatbelts are required by law Speed limits: Trinidad 80kph (50mph) on highways, 55kph (34mph) in settled areas; Tobago 50kph (32mph) Driving permits: visitors can drive for up to 90 days on a valid foreign/international licence

Utilities Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz Water: tap water is safe to drink (boil to be doubly sure); bottled water is widely available

Communications Country phone code: +1 868 Landline telephone lines: provided by Telecommunications Services of Trinidad & Tobago (TSTT) and FLOW. Prepaid international phone cards are available Mobile telephones: bmobile (TSTT) and Digicel operate on GSM networks; SIM cards are available for unlocked phones

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Mail: TTPost operates the national mail service; FedEx, DHL, UPS and others provide courier service Public wi-fi: in Trinidad, Piarco Airport and Rituals coffee shops provide public wi-fi

Media Press: there are three daily national newspapers (Trinidad Express, Trinidad Guardian, Newsday), several weeklies and one tri-weekly; Tobago is served by the Tobago News Radio: over 30 FM stations, one AM station Television: 15 local stations (some are available only via cable or on one island); cable and satellite; most hotels and guesthouses provide foreign cable channels

Safety Take practical precautions when travelling: note emergency numbers; always lock your room/house/vehicle (including windows); don’t wear expensive jewellery, and conceal/secure valuables; move in groups where possible; avoid deserted locations, and be aware of your surroundings. If you’re on the road, buckle up, and drive defensively

t&t in a nutshell Capital National capital: Port of Spain Tobago capital: Scarborough

Climate Tropical Dry season January–May, wet June– December The islands are just south of the main hurricane belt Temperature range: 72–95°F (22– 35°C); average 83°F (29°C)

Highest points

Government Trinidad & Tobago is a parliamentary democracy; elections have been held regularly since self-government in 1956 President: Anthony Carmona Prime Minister: Dr Keith Rowley Ruling party: the People’s National Movement (PNM) Official opposition: United National Congress (UNC)-led People’s Partnership coalition Opposition leader: Kamla Persad-Bissessar

Official language English

Trinidad: El Cerro del Aripo (940m/3,085ft) Tobago: Main Ridge (549m/1,860ft)

Location & coordinates 11°N, 61°W Tobago and Trinidad are 33km (21 miles) apart Trinidad is 10km (7 miles) from Venezuela at the nearest point

Size Trinidad: 4,828km2 (1,864 sq miles); 105 x 80km (65 x 50 miles) Tobago: 300km2 (116 sq miles); 48 x 16km (30 x 10 miles)

Time zone Atlantic Standard Time year-round (GMT/UTC -4, EST +1)

Population & demographics Population: 1.2–1.3 million (approx. 50,000 in Tobago) Ethnicities: 35% are of Indian descent, 34% of African descent, 23% mixed Religions: 22% are Roman Catholic, 32% are Christians of other denominations (including Anglican), 18% are Hindu, 5% are Muslim Urban populations: Port of Spain 37,000 (nearly 600,000 between Chaguaramas and Arima); Chaguanas 84,000; San Fernando 49,000; Scarborough 17,000 A bananaquit. Photo by Chris Anderson

t&t in a nutshell Economy Oil and gas account for about 40% of GDP and 80% of exports, but only 5% of employment. For the first time in its history, Trinidad and Tobago was removed from the OECD’s Development Assistance Committee (DAC) list of aid recipient countries in 2011. The list excludes countries which have met a “high income” threshold for three consecutive years.

Major resources: oil and natural gas Major industries: petroleum and petroleum products, Liquid Natural Gas (LNG), steel, methanol, ammonia, urea, light manufacturing and assembly. Major services: tourism, conference and convention facilities, financial services, construction Key Indicators (2014): GDP per capita approx. US$32,000 (2014); unemployment rate approx. 4% (2014); GDP growth in 2014 was approximately 2%.

Emergency contacts Ambulance (public hospitals): 811 EMS (emergency medical services): 624-4343 (north Trinidad), 653-4343 (south/central Trinidad), 639-4444 (Tobago) Hyperbaric medical facility (decompression chamber, Roxborough, Tobago): 660-4369 Fire: 990 Office of Disaster Preparedness: 6401285 (Trinidad), 660-7489 (Tobago) Police: in Trinidad, 999 or 555; in Tobago, 639-2520 or 639-5590

Tourism contacts Division of Tourism, Tobago: 6392125, visittobago.gov.tt Immigration Division: 625-3571 (Trinidad), 639-2681 (Tobago), immigration.gov.tt Tourism Development Company: 6757034, tdc.co.tt, gotrinidadandtobago. com Tourist information offices: 639-0509 (Crown Point Airport); 635-0934 (Cruise Ship Complex, Tobago); 6695196 (Piarco Airport)

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Sustainable tourism tips Buy local goods and souvenirs Mind your gas (petrol): choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs when renting (or buying) a car; drive within the speed limit; don’t let your car idle; keep your tires inflated; try to carpool; and when you can, walk or cycle Recycle: use Ace, Carib Glass, Piranha, Plastikeep (which operates receptacles at Massy supermarkets); Recycling in Motion (RIM), It’s Up to Me Environmental, and SWMCOL Reduce: turn off electrical devices when you don’t need them; avoid plastic bags and styrofoam; buy and consume only what you need; reuse when you can

Top: Knowsley house in Trinidad. Bottom: overgrown sugar mill in Tobago. Photos by Chris Anderson

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Galera Point at dawn. Photo by Chris Anderson

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TIME CAPSULE c 15,000-1,000 BC: islands part of South America; settled by Amerindians 1498: Christopher Columbus lands in Trinidad on July 31, claims island for Spanish and names it after Catholic Holy Trinity 1596: Tobago claimed by British 1627–50: Courlanders settle Tobago’s west coast near Plymouth, and Dutch the east 1699: Trinidad First Peoples rebel against Capuchin missionaries (Arena Uprising) 1757: Trinidad’s Spanish governor moves capital to Port of Spain from St Joseph 1768–9: first Tobago Assembly established; Scarborough made island’s capital 1776: oldest forest reserve in western hemisphere designated in Tobago 1781: French seize Tobago, convert it to sugar colony 1783: Spanish governor Chacón’s Cedula de Población entices Catholic white and free coloured settlers to Trinidad with land incentives; rapid development begins 1790: great fire of Scarborough destroys much of downtown; hurricane ravages island 1797: Trinidad captured by Sir Ralph Abercromby’s British fleet 1801: massive slave uprising in Tobago quelled 1806: first Chinese workers imported to Trinidad 1807: slave trading abolished in British empire 1808: great fire of Port of Spain destroys much of the city 1814: Tobago ceded to British under Treaty of Paris 1816: six companies of free blacks from the United States (mainly Baptist) settle in southern Trinidad, and one in Tobago 1834-8: slavery abolished in the British Empire, leading to apprenticeship (1834) then emancipation (1838) 1834–1917: indentured labour imported to Trinidad from other islands, China, Portugal, Syria, Lebanon, and India 1857: first oil well drilled in Trinidad near Pitch Lake 1858–84: Trinidad governor criminalises Carnival activities 1881: Canboulay Riots in Trinidad 1884: Hosay Riots in Trinidad; Tobago’s sugar industry collapses 1889–98: Tobago merged with Trinidad; Tobago Assembly disbanded 1903: Water Riots in Port of Spain; Red House burns down 1908: commercial oil production begins in southern Trinidad 1914: first calypso recorded in Trinidad 1925: first national elections (limited franchise) 1931: Piarco International Airport opens 1935-41: first steelpans emerge in Laventille, Trinidad

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TIME CAPSULE 1937: 1940: 1941: 1945: 1951: 1956: 1958: 1960: 1962: 1963: 1970: 1974: 1976: 1980: 1981: 1983: 1986:

1990: 1995:

2007: 2010:

2015:

oilfield and labour strikes led in southern Trinidad by Tubal Uriah “Buzz” Butler Crown Point Airport opens in Tobago; national airline British West Indies Airways (BWIA) commences operations Chaguaramas peninsula leased to United States for 99 years; American military remain through World War II public emergence of steelbands; universal suffrage implemented repeal of ordinance prohibiting activities of Spiritual “Shouter” Baptist faith self government under Eric Williams’ People’s National Movement (PNM) islands join Federation of West Indies Trinidad campus of University of the West Indies (UWI) established islands leave Federation, gain independence from Britain; Dr Eric Williams becomes first Prime Minister Hurricane Flora devastates Tobago; Chaguaramas returned to Trinidadian control “Black Power” uprising in Trinidad Garfield Blackman (Ras Shorty I) releases first soca album new republican constitution Tobago House of Assembly restored; islands enjoy economic prosperity George Chambers (PNM) succeeds Williams as Prime Minister oil prices fall, crippling local economy National Alliance for Reconstruction (NAR) unseats PNM in national elections; Tobagonian ANR Robinson becomes Prime Minister unsuccessful coup attempt by Afro-Islamist Jamaat al Muslimeen coalition government between United National Congress (UNC) and NAR unseats the PNM; Basdeo Panday becomes Prime Minister Caribbean Airlines replaces BWIA as national carrier; record oil prices fuel economic boom UNC-led coalition government (People’s Partnership) ousts PNM at general and local elections under Kamla PersadBissessar, the country’s first female Prime Minister; Caribbean Airlines completes purchase of Air Jamaica; country struggles with stagnating economy in the wake of the global financial crisis oil prices crash; PNM wins general elections

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Calendar of events 201

For more on many of these celebrations, see our Festivals pages in Trinidad and Tobago. Many of these events confirmation — visit our website at discovertnt.com for the latest!

may

January 1 (public holiday): New Year’s Day Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring Garden, Plymouth, Mt Pleasant Carnival Educative Arts Festival & Carnival Caravan (Tobago)

february

Rapsofest Salsa Fiesta (Trinidad) Maypole Festival (Tobago) Rainbow Cup International Triathlon (Tobag European Film Festival (Trinidad) 26 (public holiday): Corpus Christi 30 (public holiday): Indian Arrival Day Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Delaford, Belle G

8 & 9: Carnival Monday and Tuesday 8: Chinese New Year (year of the monkey) Tobago Carnival Regatta Talk Tent (calypso and comedy) Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Hope, Adelphi, Buccoo, Franklyn, Bon Accord

march 12: Jazz Artists on the Greens (jaotg.com) 23–27: Phagwa (Holi) 25-28: Easter Weekend (public holidays Friday & Monday) 30 (public holiday): Spiritual Shouter Baptist Liberation Day — commemorating the repeal of the Shouters Prohibition Ordinance (1917), effectively banning this Christian and Orisha syncretic religion. They are also referred to as Shouter Baptists and Shango Baptists Turtle nesting season begins (Trinidad & Tobago) Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Mt St. George, Mason Hall, Roxborough Caribbean Institute of Astronomy’s Annual Star Party (Old US Tracking Station, Chaguaramas, Trinidad)

april 16-24: Tobago Jazz Experience Bocas Lit Fest: the Trinidad & Tobago Literary Festival Pan in the 21st Century (Trinidad & Tobago) La Divina Pastora (Trinidad) Harvest Festival (Tobago): Goodwood Pt Fortin Borough Day (Trinidad) — full week of J’ouvert, mas, pan and parties leading up the big street party

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june

Ganga Dhaaraa: Hindu river fe descent of India’s sacred Rive Trinidad) 19 (public holiday): Labour D union marches and gatherings 29: St Peter’s Day Fisherman’ Street Arts Festival (Trinidad) WeBeat Festival (Trinidad) Trade & Investment Conventio Junior Tobago Heritage Festiva Tobago Culinary Festival Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Lam Roxborough

july

TBC (public holiday): Eid-ulrecognised of our Islamic obse the holy month of Ramadan, mosques Mango Festival (Trinidad) Tobago Heritage Festival (last Charlotteville Fisherman’s Fes Prime Minister’s Charity Golf South Caribbean Open Golf To Tobago Games J’ouvert in July (Trinidad) Great Fete Weekend (Tobago) Harvest Festival (Tobago): Cast

s are subject to

august 1 (public holiday): Emancipation Day Arima Borough Day (Trinidad) Castara Fisherman’s Fete (Tobago) Santa Rosa Festival (Trinidad) Great Race (Trinidad to Tobago) Oshun River Festival (Trinidad) — marked by Orisha devotees celebrating the goddess of love, fertility and inland waters Harvest Festival (Tobago): Speyside 31 (public holiday): Independence Day — commemorates the islands’ independence from Britain in 1962, featuring a parade of the protective services; national awards; and fireworks

go)

september

Garden, Mason Hall, Whim

estival honouring the er Ganges (Blanchisseuse,

Day — marked by trade s in Fyzabad (Trinidad) ’s Festival )

on (Trinidad) val

mbeau, Bloody Bay,

-Fitr — the most widely ervances, Eid marks the end of celebrated in homes and

two weeks of July) st (Tobago) Classic (Tobago) Tournament (Tobago)

) tara, Black Rock

Angostura Rum Festival Trinidad & Tobago Film Festival Trinidad & Tobago Restaurant Week Tobago Fest Tobago International Cycling Classic 24 (public holiday): Republic Day — marks the adoption in 1976 of a new republican constitution (in which a President replaced the Queen of England as the head of state, and the islands became a republic within the Commonwealth) Derby Horse Racing Classics (Trinidad) Maracas Open Water Classic (Trinidad) Republic Day Cycling Classic (Trinidad) Parang season begins

october 8-11: Hosay (Trinidad) First People’s Heritage Week Blue Food Festival (Tobago) National Tourism Week Ramleela Festival (Trinidad) Steelpan & Jazz Festival (Trinidad) Harvest Festival (Tobago): Patience Hill TBC (public holiday): Divali

november International Surf Festival Scarborough Cup Golf Tournament (Tobago) Tobago Christmas Caravan Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Plymouth, Black Rock, Les Couteaux, Moriah, Scarborough, Montgomery

december Christmas with the Marionettes Chorale (Trinidad) Paramin Parang Festival (Trinidad) Assembly Day (Tobago) 25 (public holiday): Christmas Day 26 (public holiday): Boxing Day Phagwa (Holi) is celebrated in March. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

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th Anniversary

Welcome!

Anniversary

Come and discover Tobago! What’s your dream? Sunbathing on pristine beaches? Exhilarating water-sports? Coming face to face with a giant manta ray as it glides past the largest living brain coral in the world? Delicious cuisine, in restaurants with stunning views of the ocean? Hiking to breath-taking waterfalls? Immersing yourself in a warm and welcoming culture, from unique folk festivals to world-class music and jazz? Watching magnificent giant leatherback turtles coming ashore to nest? Partying until dawn to soca, calypso and steelpan music? Watching the sun set over your private infinity pool as you sip a cocktail with that special someone? Observing a dizzying array of tropical birds, and learning each one’s unique call? Whether you enjoy Tobago in a long leisurely holiday, or only have a single day on your cruise itinerary, there’s a world of beauty to discover. And yes, island time presides here. You feel it as you disembark. The tensions begin to melt away. Focus your attention on beautiful beaches, delectable cuisine, vibrant festivals, eco escapes and adventures, worldclass diving, or taste a little of each! What’s for certain is you’ll leave refreshed. In our 25th anniversary edition of Discover T&T, we’ll guide your way — in print, online, and on your favourite mobile device!

The iconic jetty at Pigeon Point. Photo courtesy TDC

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Accommodation: where to stay

here you stay in Tobago depends on what you’re looking for in your Tobago escape. Luxury or budget? Ocean or mountain view? Beach or infinity pool? Villa or hotel room? Room service or self-catering? Retreat or resort? Decisions, decisions...

The hub - Crown Point & the southwest

This is where you’ll find easy access to restaurants, bars, nightlife, shopping, snorkelling, reef and bioluminescence tours, and a range of accommodation, some in walking distance of the airport. Two of the most popular beaches on the island — Store Bay and Pigeon Point — are nearby. In this area you’ll find everything from award-winning beach resorts to humble B&Bs. Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort, the Crown Point Beach Hotel, Surfside Hotel, Coco Reef Resort & Spa, and self-catering Belleviste Apartments are popular choices. Closer to the capital, Scarborough, is the recently opened Magdalena Grand Resort — which shares the lush grounds and golf courses of the Tobago Plantations development — and in Bacolet, the intimate and stylish Bacolet Beach Club boutique hotel and its sister property up the hill, Half Moon Blue Hotel. Private villa accommodation. Photo courtesy Island Investments

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Inset: a Cocrico poses in front of a villa sign. Above: lounging at the clubhouse pool. Photos courtesy the Villas at Stonehaven

TTTIC

The Leeward coast Not far from Crown Point and the airport, several villa developments and beach resorts open onto the beaches of the popular west coast. Nesting leatherbacks frequent these shores between March and September. Popular spots line Stonehaven Bay, including Plantation Beach Villas, Seahorse Inn, Grand Courland Resort & Spa (adults only), and Grafton Beach Resort. The elegant Stonehaven Villas are perched on the hillside above the bay.

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Properties which are part of the Trinidad & Tobago Tourism Industry Certification (TTTIC) programme have been audited by the Trinidad & Tobago Bureau of Standards (TTBS) to ensure that they offer high quality services that meet global standards. The most upto-date list can be found on the islands’ official tourism portals at gotrinidadandtobago.com and visittobago.gov.tt.

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BELLEVISTE A PA R T M E N T S 20 self-contained apartments with private balconies and sea views. Fully furnished, air conditioned with cable TV and Wi-Fi. Large swimming pool. Belleviste Apartments are within walking distance of ANR Robinson International Airport, Store Bay and Pigeon Point. Taxis and public transport easily available. CROWN POINT, TOBAGO Email: bellevisteapartments@gmail.com • Website: www.belleviste.com Tel: (868) 639-9351 • Fax: (868) 631-8475

Chillin’ at...

...the boutique hotel on Bacolet Street Nestled in gardens of palms, bamboo & bougainvillea, Half Moon Blue’s colonial styled rooms, with jalousied windows and doors, open onto verandas that overlook the turquoise waters of Bacolet Bay, creating the perfect spot for whatever your heart desires Hal f m oonbl ue. com hol idays@ h alf m oonblue . com 868- 639- 3551 discovertnt.com

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Themed retreats & holidays Both the birds and the beaches are never far away in Tobago, but if you want to be in the thick of the best hiking, diving, biking, birding and close encounters with nature, further north and inland might be the ideal locations. Look out for popular spots like Blue Waters Inn or Top Rankin Guesthouse in the north near the diving mecca, Speyside (from which you can also get boats to Little Tobago island, a haven for birders); and for eco retreats like the popular Footprints Eco Resort (Culloden, on the west coast), the Cuffie River Nature Retreat (Runnemede, near the Main Ridge Forest Reserve), and Top o’ Tobago Villa (in the hills above Arnos Vale). If you want to disconnect and regroup while close to Crown Point and all its attractions, however, Kariwak Village might be just what you’re looking for.

Relaxing in Castara. Photo by Chris Anderson

Price & availability Peak season is November–April, including Carnival, Easter, the week of Tobago Jazz Experience — plus virtually any long weekend in T&T! During the July/August or “summer” vacation, visiting Trinidadians also flock to Tobago, especially around Great Fete and Great Race weekends.

THE HAPPIEST ISLAND ribbean Awaits You Ca e In Th

Tobago was named the Happiest Country in the Caribbean by World Happiness Report published by the United Nations. We’re happy because of the beauty that surrounds us and we are happy to share our beautiful island with you. Tobago has much to offer from exciting watersports to eco-adventure in one of the hemisphere’s oldest rainforests. Join us during our celebration so we can make you happy too. The Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort has 178 deluxe oceanfront guest rooms and 22 suites, all featuring breathtaking views. There are 3 oceanfront swimming pools, a PGA designed 18-hole golf course, tennis, a PADI 5-star dive center, spa services, a kids club, as well as a wide range of dining options.

US Toll Free: 1-866-353-6222 • Local: 868-660-8500 Email: Reservations@MagdalenaGrand.com

WWW .M AGDALENA G R AND . COM MAG-15-186 Discover Tobago.indd 1

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Buying property Single-family homes begin at TT$1 million (US$160,000), while the grandest and most luxurious can cross TT$20 million (US$3–4 million). The median price is around TT$2–3 million (US$400– 500,000). Foreign buyers are required to obtain a licence before investing in property. Property taxes are being reintroduced from 2016, and there is a 5–10% stamp duty payable on most property purchases, plus applicable legal fees. Agencies like the well-established Abraham Tobago Realty and Island Investments can help you buy your piece of paradise.

STUNNING BEACHFRONT PROPERTIES FOR SALE

Beautiful Homes & Land for sale Vacation Villa Rentals Whether you desire a luxury ocean front villa or a small retirement cottage… or simply wish to spend your vacation in paradise, we’ll find “your place in the sun”

www.abrahamrealty.com Email: abrahamrealty@gmail.com Tel: 868-639-3325

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A Tobago wedding

ith a variety of stunning backdrops to choose from, Tobago has become a popular wedding destination. Several resorts and wedding service providers offer custom packages, including honeymoon packages, to make your special day absolutely perfect. Here’s the process:

Non-residents must establish temporary residency in Tobago by scheduling any wedding activities no less than three full days after arrival They must have a valid return ticket They must obtain a special marriage license (US$55) at the Inland Revenue Department (IRD) in Scarborough, with proof of identity (valid passport), and evidence of their single status, including any relevant divorce decrees and death certificates. Non-English documents must be accompanied by notarised English translations. Those who wish to marry under the age of 18 must obtain the written consent of their parent or guardian. The IRD is open Monday–Friday, 8am– 4pm. The cashier closes for lunch 12–1pm and at 3pm for the day The wedding ceremony will require two witnesses identified by passport, and must be performed between 6am and 6pm The couple will receive two marriage certificates that are accepted in most countries. It is advisable to check your nation of origin for any additional requirements. For more information, visit the Tobago Association of Wedding Professionals: tobagowedpros.com.

Photography by Yaisa Tangwell Photography

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dining & entertainment Fine dining

Stumped for choice?

Tobago’s finest restaurants often take advantage of stunning locations — outdoor seating overlooking the ocean, the shells of colonial waterwheels and sugar mills, preserved plantation houses, golf courses and landscaped gardens, or awe-inspiring mountainside perches. Many are part of the posher hotel developments and offer a range of fine dining experiences from European, American and Asian cuisine, to Caribbean and Tobagonian favourites. Fusion restaurants and dishes are also on the rise. Of course, freshly caught seafood is a speciality.

If you’re looking for great ambiance and great food, here are some names to look out for: the Pavilion Restaurant, Shore Things Café, Ciao Café, La Tartaruga, Kariwak Village, BarCode, Shirvan Watermill, the Fish Pot, Gemma’s Treehouse, Salsa Kitchen, Prospect Café, the restaurants at the Magdalena Grand, and the Seahorse Inn, Restaurant & Bar.

Casual dining & fast food Island-wide, roadside eateries, food stalls and sports bars offer international fast food favourites as well as local specialties. At Store Bay, vendors cook up roti, pelau, stew, curry crab-anddumpling — plus burgers, hot dogs, perhaps a soup or two. Just before turning off Milford Road for the Pigeon Point Heritage Park, an exceptionally crowded corner offers all things takeout: barbecue, pizza, Arabic fare, fried chicken, and icecream. Perfectly prepared lobster. Photo courtesy the Division of Tourism & Transportation

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Try these Tobago specials Baked goods: cassava pone, sweetbread, fruit/black cake, coconut bake (often eaten at breakfast with buljol or cheese) Benne balls & sweets: a delightful, if somewhat jaw-breaking, confection made of sesame seeds. More sweets: toolum, soursop fudge, guava cheese, pawpaw balls, shaddock candy, tamarind balls, sugar cake, cashew cake, ice-cream and desserts flavoured with fruit, coconut and even Guinness! Blue food: any ground provision or root vegetable (yam, eddoes, dasheen, sweet potatoes, cassava, tannia, potatoes, topi tambu, et al) Crab-and-dumpling: a savoury dish in which the crab is stewed with curry and coconut milk and served over flat flour dumplings. Tobago’s signature; delicious and extremely filling Drinks & fresh juices: squash (made from lime and lemon juice), sorrel, mauby, ginger beer, coconut water, sea-moss, barbadine, soursop, rum punch, bush teas, wines made from local fruits, rum, beer Fillings: salt-fish buljol, tomato choka, black pudding

Seafood: lobster, mahi mahi, marlin, conch, king fish, red snapper, tilapia, chip chip, squid, oysters... If you can, opt for the most sustainably produced fish, or a vegetarian option — some fish stocks are dangerously low in our local waters, and the balance of our eco-system is at risk as a result Fruit: mangoes, passion fruit, cashew, grapefruit, orange, portugals, shaddock, pommerac, pommecythere/golden apple, chennette/guineps, guava, melons, five fingers/carambola, sapodilla, soursop, pawpaw/papaya, pineapple, tamarind, peewah, chataigne Herbs and spices: nutmeg, clove, garlic, ginger, chadon beni, peppers, roucou/annatto, bay, anise, thyme, lemon/fever grass, spring onion Oil-down: breadfruit with salted meat and boiled down in coconut milk Snacks: doubles, souse, pastelles, roti Yabba & other soups: thick soup with dumpling, fish, pigtail, potato, breadfruit, cassava, dasheen, green banana and almost anything! More soups: callaloo, sancoche, cow-heel, corn soup, and fish broth.

Tobago is famous for its curried crab. Photo courtesy the Division of Tourism & Transportation

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Authentic festivals

and events, A unique history, Tropical rain forest, Exhilarating watersports, uncrowded beaches, revitalized chocolate industry and amazing eco-holidays. LIVE THE CULTURE,

style

for more info visit www.tobagostyle.travel

Nightlife & entertainment Happy hours For an easy, early evening lime, happy hours are a great way to start off the evening. Exotic drinks, live entertainment, delectable food… These all await you at a range of bars, clubs, and restaurants, including those at popular hotels and resorts.

Cinemas If you’re in for just a quiet movie or a show, the multiplex MovieTowne cinema at Gulf City Lowlands Mall is your best bet. Tip: you can catch local and regional flicks at the T&T Film Festival each September.

Gaming For the blackjack buff or roulette regular, choose from the Crystal Palace Casino, the Royalton at Crown Point Hotel or Sunset Palm Club.

MovieTowne cinema at Gulf City Lowlands. Photo courtesy Gulf City Ltd.

Live entertainment & karaoke Many restaurants, bars and other locations, especially in the Crown Point area, offer nightly live entertainment featuring local acts, as well as karaoke nights. And of course, there are countless live entertainment options around festival times — Carnival, Jazz Experience, Great Fete weekend, and Heritage Festival.

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Partying For partying through the year, The Shade is the place to be. But Sundays are a no-contest: all roads lead to Buccoo and its famous Sunday School street party. From about 9pm, there is live and DJ music with craft, food and even gambling stalls filling the street and environs. As a local tune once put it: “we not goin’ home til we see de sun”.

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Shopping Gulf City Lowlands Mall The air-conditioned Gulf City Lowlands Mall is the place for most retail items you might be in search of, with both local and international brands, plus a food court, salons, and the adjacent multiplex cinema.

Groceries & markets The largest groceries are in Canaan and Carnbee, while smaller groceries and parlours can be found island-wide and especially between Crown Point and Scarborough. Specialty food items, including local favourites, are available in Mount Pleasant at Moreshead. The Scarborough Market is best visited on a Friday or Saturday, and specialises in fish, fruit, vegetables and local foods. Vendors at the port in Scarborough and opposite the check-in area at ANR Robinson airport sell traditional candies in sizes that travel well.

Local craft & souvenirs Hand-crafted items (from shoes and jewellery to fabric, clothing, soaps and sculptures) and miniature steel pans are a good buy, and are widely available near Crown Point, especially at Store Bay’s Craft Market, at Pigeon Point and Scarborough Market, and at Sunday School in Buccoo from around 7pm. Shore Things in Lambeau offers original art, craft and hand-made items (plus there’s a lovely café on site). Most are locally produced, though imported clothing, beach wraps and souvenirs are also for sale. You’ll also find some shops at the airport. Tobago pancraft. Photo by Edison Boodoosingh

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Beaches: our top 20

You can hardly go wrong with beaches in Tobago. A good rule of thumb: the further north you go, the quieter the beaches become. Here are our top 20, grouped by region. (For even more, visit our website!)

Crown Point Canoe Bay (entrance fee): off Milford Rd, perhaps Tobago’s calmest, shallowest bathing beach, perfect for young families. Facilities include a bar and cabanas Pigeon Point ($20 entrance fee): white coral sand with calm, warm and shallow waters protected by Buccoo Reef. Great swimming and snorkelling, and facilities that include cabanas, bar and restaurant, and several on-site water-sports providers (surfing, kite-surfing, wind-surfing, paddle-boarding, kayaking etc). Glass-bottom boat tours start here for the Reef and Nylon Pool. Make sure to take a photo or a selfie (or wefie) in the little thatched cabana at the end of the much-photographed jetty! Store Bay: a stone’s throw from the airport, this small, shadeless beach — cupped by small coral cliffs — is one of the most popular (and busy) beaches in Tobago. Glass-bottom boats often leave twice daily for tours to Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool. Great for swimming, and snorkelling under coral cliffs at the southern end, with excellent craft shopping, food stalls, and changing rooms (small fee).

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Pigeon Point in the foreground with the airport and other Crown Point area beaches in the background. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

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Leeward/Caribbean Sea coast

Tips & tricks

Arnos Vale Bay: Tobago’s best snorkelling Lifeguards are typically on beach — the reef lies immediately off the sand. duty 9am–5pm or 10am– The beach is within a hotel compound 6pm, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe Back Bay: accessible through the cliff-side bathing areas trail, a secluded small bay (hidden from the road) with golden sand. A little pool, perfect for Permits are required both two, forms on the beach at high tide. NB: take for camping and for turtleextra care due to the isolation of this beach; best watching. Contact a reputable to go in a group tour guide, your hotel, or the Forestry Division to make arBloody Bay: a secluded, breezy beach with rangements golden sand and clear blue waters, nothing at all like its name (a sign explains its origin). Tropical sun can quickly give Great swimming, with new facilities on site a bad burn, even through cloud, so use your sunscreen. Castara: stunning, quiet and unspoilt beach in a friendly fishing village — calm water and fine golden sand. Restaurant and craft stalls on site, with accommodation and a waterfall nearby. Bread is baked in old-fashioned dirt ovens twice a week Englishman’s Bay: quiet and secluded, almond-fringed, crescent-shaped bay with deep, clear waters, hidden by trees. It’s been voted one of the Caribbean’s best beaches. Good swimming and snorkelling, with craft shopping and a restaurant on site Grange Beach (“The Wall”): long, thin beach (slightly obscured from the road by a stone wall) — ideal for swimming Castara beach. Photo by Chris Anderson

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Parlatuvier: tranquil, white/pink sand beach in a friendly fishing village. Good snorkelling; a snackette and fish market operate here Mt Irvine: divided in the centre by a headland (Old Grange Beach to the left and Little Irvine to the right). Good swimming, snorkelling, surfing (November–April), and water-sports (gear rental is available on site). A fish market operates here on weekday afternoons. NB: keep far from the manchineel trees Stonehaven Bay: rugged, dark-sand beach with good swimming and snorkelling, and perfect for long walks and jogs. There are facilities nearby (including several hotels and resorts). Turtles nest here in season

Turtle Beach (Great Courland Bay): long, dark-sand beach, good for swimming and popular for horse riding and watersports. Turtles nest here in season Cotton Bay: A beautiful, private and secluded beach, accessible from the sea only. It is a favourite boat tour stop (see our Eco Escapes section) Man-o’-War Bay: main Charlotteville beach, ideal for swimming. Cruise ships also stop in its deep natural harbour. Lots of accommodation and restaurants nearby Pirate’s Bay: a stunning pink sand beach with crystal-clear water and a fabulous view, accessed via dirt track and 150-odd steps from the end of the Charlotteville seafront, or by sea. Great for swimming and snorkelling.

Windward/Atlantic Ocean coast King’s Bay: a picturesque long stretch Speyside & Blue Waters: Tobago’s dive with calm water and good facilities. Villagers capital, with sandy beaches within swimming distance of the reef. Both Speyside pull seine in the afternoons, so it’s a good and Blue Waters beaches are great for place to buy fish swimming and snorkelling. Glass-bottom Little Rockly Bay: scenic stretch lined by boat trips to Angel Reef, Goat Island and coconut trees loved by walkers and joggers, Little Tobago start here. There’s a Tourist with crashing waves loved by wind-surfers. Office, lots of water-sports facilities, acAccommodation and restaurants nearby commodation, and restaurants. Minister Bay: black-sand beach north of Bacolet Pt; a surfers’ standby if Mt Irvine is not performing Sandy Bay is an undiscovered gem. Photo courtesy Bacolet Beach Club

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Explore the Culture

obago’s cultural and festival landscape ranges from folk traditions with strong roots in Tobago’s communities, to international events and festivals attracting talent and patrons from across the globe.

For more on national holidays and celebrations, see our Calendar & Events section.

The festival f low Harvest & Fisherman’s Festivals Once an annual community thanksgiving for the year’s harvest, one Sunday each month now sees a village in Tobago hosting a Harvest Festival. Fisherman’s festivals take place in coastal villages yearround, mainly on St Peter’s Day. Like the harvest festivals, they begin with church services in the morning and end with eating, drinking, and partying into the night. The biggest celebration is in Charlotteville. Visitors are always welcome.

Charlotteville Harvest Festival includes a re-enactment of the cocoa dance. Photo courtesy the Division of Tourism & Transportation

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Tobago Carnival Regatta Held at Pigeon Pt, the “festival of wind” is a combination of four sailing categories: Optimists and Bum Boat sailing, as well as the more dynamic Wind-surf and Kite-surfing classes.

Buccoo Goat & Crab Racing Festival Mount Pleasant Goat Race This tradition, going back 80 years, sees competing goats decked off in coloured coats race helter-skelter down a specially constructed 110m track to the checkered flag at the finish line, prodded by barefoot “jockeys” who sprint behind holding them at the end of long ropes (or short string, for the crabs). The event is held on Easter Monday and Tuesday at Mt Pleasant and Buccoo. There’s a repeat later in the year at the Heritage Festival.

Did you know? Alpines, Toggenburgs and Saanens — all a head above the garden and road-side variety of goat — have special diets and training regimens for months ahead of the big day. Stamina is built by taking the goats swimming.

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Speech bands Part of Tobago’s unique Carnival tradition, Bethel and Plymouth are home to these bands, where a cast of costumed characters speechify in rhyme.

Tobago speech band. Photo courtesy the Division of Tourism & Transportation

Tobagonian Carnival icons Carnival Tobago Carnival is more laid-back and focused on traditional, folk aspects. Mud mas is the mainstay each J’ouvert (Carnival Monday morning) in Scarborough. The mud is said to be therapeutic for the skin — which begs a refreshing “sea bath” afterwards! Ole mas and costumed bands, of adults and children, parade in both Scarborough and Roxborough on Monday. Adults masquerade in full costume on Tuesday. The season officially launches with a street parade in Scarborough in October/ November featuring traditional mas characters. The first big party is Soca Spree, typically headlined by Machel Montano. Other major events include Soca Under the Samaan Tree, the Tobago House of Assembly (THA)’s Inter-department Queen and Calypso Show, and the Roxborough AfroQueen and Windward Calypso Show. Make sure to visit the pan yards of steelbands, like Dixieland, Redemption Sound Setters, and Katzenjammers.

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Winston “The Shadow” Bailey: born in Les Coteaux; national Calypso Monarch (2000), and Road March champion (1974’s “Bassman”, and 2001’s “Stranger”) Linda MacArthur “Calypso Rose” Lewis: born in Bethel, the first woman to win national Road March in 1977 (“Tempo”) and 1978 (“Soca Jam”); forced Calypso King competition to be renamed the Calypso Monarch by taking the 1978 crown. A documentary film has been made about her: Calypso Rose: Lioness of the Jungle Robert “Lord Nelson” Nelson: known for his distinct funk-influenced sound; reportedly the first calypsonian to use computerised instruments in his recordings Shurwayne Winchester: Signal Hill native; two-time national Road March winner — “Look De Band Comin” (2004) and “Dead or Alive” (2005); three-time International Soca Monarch — Power and Groovy titles in 2006 (“Can’t Wait” and “Don’t Stop”) and Groovy in 2008 (“Please Stay”).

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The Tobago Jazz Experience Each year, the last week of April, jazz is everywhere: on the beach, in bars and lounges, in parks, all around the island. The Tobago Jazz Experience features some of the best local and regional jazz, soca and world music talents, alongside pop, R&B, hip-hop, and soul stars from around the world. Previous events have attracted John Legend, Jill Scott, Jennifer Hudson, Kool & the Gang, Angie Stone, Janelle Monae, Chaka Khan, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, Mary J. Blige, Sting, Diana Ross, Erykah Badu, India. Arie, and George Benson. Speyside, Signal Hill, Scarborough, Castara and Pigeon Pt Heritage Park are key venues, some of which host free events.

Visual arts There is a small but impressive visual arts community in Tobago, with some lovely museums and galleries (some of which we recommend in our Sightseeing section). Look for the Kimme Museum (Bethel); the Tobago Museum (Scarborough); and The Art Gallery (Lowlands). Some Tobago-born artists to note: Jim Armstrong, Kevin Ayoung-Julien, Marcia Des Vignes, Edward Hernandez, David Knott, Earl Manswell, and Jason Nedd.

Culinary Festival Each May/June, this free international culinary event invites you to sample dishes from around the world, especially those native to Tobago, in the Pigeon Pt Heritage Park. The island’s best chefs and cooks compete in culinary skills contests, while the bar-men face off in a mixology contest. A wine zone features both local and international wines.

Heritage Festival The biggest festival on Tobago’s cultural calendar, running two weeks from mid-July and culminating on Emancipation Day (1 August). Started in 1987, and with a different theme each year, it is dedicated to preserving the cultural traditions of the island. The action moves nightly from village to village, with communities presenting local traditions of dance, drama, music, storytelling and food. Typical presentations are the Ole Time Tobago Wedding in Moriah, Folk Tales and Superstitions in Golden Lane and Les Coteaux, Games We Used to Play, the Salaka Feast and Invocation Dance. Janelle Monae performs at the Tobago Jazz Festival. Photo courtesy the Division of Tourism & Transportation

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Tobago heritage: folklore & traditions Gang Gang Sara & the Witch’s Grave in Golden Lane The story goes that Gang Gang Sara was a wise, kind witch — or a soucouyant, depending on who you ask — who flew from Africa to Tobago centuries ago in search of her family. Some say she landed after being blown off course onto the island. In her old age, after her husband Tom’s death, she climbed a giant silk cotton tree (sacred in many indigenous religions) hoping to fly back to her homeland. But having eaten local salt, she was unable to fly, and fell to her death.

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Moriah Wedding Featuring groom in stovepipe hat and tailcoat, and bride with trousseau on head, processing slowly with the distinctive three-step “brush back”, accompanied by fiddler and tambrin drummers. Tambrin is quintessential Tobagonian music, driven by three shallow goatskin tambrin drums (high pitched cutter, roller, and boom bass), fiddle, and steel triangle.

Plymouth Ole Time Carnival Featuring African stick-fighting, dancing masquerade characters, Ju Ju warriors, Jab Jabs and devils dressed in satin.

Reel, Jig and SaLaka Indigenous dances from Pembroke, with roots in West African rituals invoking the ancestors, and accompanied by tambrin music. Libations are still offered at the beginning of reels. The Salaka feast is also held in Pembroke. While some Creole dances (like bele and piqué) are found in both Trinidad and Tobago, the reel and jig are uniquely Tobagonian.

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Above: Great Race action. Photo by Nicholas Bhajan Opposite page: a majestic silk cotton tree. Photo by Chris Anderson

Great FEte & Great Race

Tobago Fest

The Great Race (August), first held in 1969, sees speed-boats sprint about 115 miles from Port of Spain’s waterfront (Trinidad) early in the morning, arriving in Scarborough (Tobago) two to three hours later — and concluding with lots of partying. Originally tied to Great Race festivities, Great Fete Weekend (July/August) is now a separate five-day beach party at Store Bay, Pigeon Pt and Mt Irvine.

This Carnival-style event features a Parade of Bands, a Queen Contest, Night Mas, J’ouvert, soca concerts, and steelband music.

Blue Food Festival

Each October, this truly unique culinary experience sees the dasheen plant — all of it! — used to prepare various mouth-watering dishes, including bread, cookies, lasagne, and even ice-cream. A cooking competition is the festival highlight: skilled cooks comCommunity tradition: pete to create fine dishes from “pulling seine” dasheen. “Blue food” covers any root crop, like sweet poOne custom which you’re likely to come across tato, cassava, or yam. Some on Tobago’s beaches is the communal retrieving varieties of dasheen can turn of fishing nets cast close to shore. Once they’ve blue or indigo when cooked, so spotted shoals of fish, fishermen in boats drop the expression has become a the net in a circle from the shore. Any and catch-all for root crops in geneverybody can help to pull in the catch, part of eral. The festival takes place which you’re welcome to in return for your asin the countryside around sistance. Bloody Bay, L’Anse Fourmi and Parlatuvier.

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Tours & adventures

ne of the advantages of holidaying on a small island is that incredible experiences of every kind are in easy reach. From landmarks that whisper of the island’s complex history (it changed hands some 31 times in colonial days) to thrilling eco escapes and adventures by land or sea, the biggest challenge you’ll face is what to choose in the time you have. For eco escapes and adventures, make sure to hire a reputable guide or tour company, who can also take you on easy day-trips and sight-seeing tours. If you feel confident on the road, rent a vehicle and go exploring on your own. Here are some of our favourite experiences for the most casual to the most intrepid explorers! (See our Beaches section and Eco escapes sections.)

Be in the know Permits are needed for some locations and activities; reputable guides or tour operators can arrange Natural hazards: the Portuguese Man-o’-War (in the water), and the sap and fruit of the manchineel tree (most common on beaches). Seek local advice on whether these are present Clothing & accessories: wear long trousers, and closed-toe, water-proof shoes with good grip for lengthy treks. Avoid wearing black: it attracts mosquitoes and soaks up the heat. Take a change of clothes, socks, food and water (and your camera!) in a waterproof bag Keep Tobago clean: don’t discard your rubbish in waterways and in the outdoors. This can cause flooding and environmental pollution.

Did you know? Tobago has won many awards as a top destination for eco-tourism, including four World Travel Awards.

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Tobago’s natural history Once joined to the South American mainland, Tobago has inherited a continental legacy of flora, fauna and topography. The island’s small size offers easy access to the flat, undulating, coral-based southwest with its white-sand beaches; the coral-crusted rock formations of the north; the tropical rainforest reserve of the Main Ridge, with its waterfalls, rivers and streams; the swampland and mangroves close to the ocean; and islands like Little Tobago off the north coast. Offshore, a variety of reef types include the shallow Buccoo Reef, and the deep reefs off the northeast. Photo courtesy TDC

Biodiversity in a nutshell Tobago has an incredible degree of biodiversity for its small size. Its flora and fauna include: 200+ bird species 130+ butterfly species (including the blue emperor) 80+ species of tropical reef fish 20+ species of snake (none poisonous) 40+ species of coral 17 species of bats 14 species of frog 12 species of mammals 5 species of marine turtles (including the endangered giant leatherback) 6 species of lizard.

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Sightseeing & more! Round-the-island tour

Stuff of literary legend

If you start early and hand-pick your stops, you can tour the entire island in a day. (See our favourites below to help you choose.) If you start in Crown Point or Shirvan Road, head north, where you’ll soon come upon the bucolic fishing villages along the Caribbean coast. The road takes you from the southwest’s undulating limestone terrain to mountainous hard rock formations along the Main Ridge forest reserve. Magical Charlotteville occupies the northern tip, before the road curves back around to the more rugged Windward coast. Speyside is the jewel of the northeast, the island’s diving Mecca; Goat Island and Little Tobago lie offshore. Jemma’s Treehouse is a popular place to stop for lunch on a roundthe-island tour. The Windward Road then snakes southwards along the east coast to Scarborough, Lowlands, and back to Crown Point. As a bonus, if you’re visiting during turtle nesting season, you can arrange to go turtle-watching in the evening. (See more below, under our turtle-watching section.)

Popular tour types Tour operators offer tours specialising in bird-watching, turtle-watching, snorkelling, diving, hiking and waterfalls, stand-up-paddling, mountain biking, sunset cruises, or coastal and round-the-island tours by land and sea. Some will let you customise your tour for a bit of everything.

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It’s almost certain that Daniel Defoe used Tobago as the basis for the island in his classic novel Robinson Crusoe; some claim Robert Louis Stevenson did the same for Treasure Island.

Leeward/ Caribbean coast Fort Milford: a perfect spot for enjoying a Tobago sunset overlooking the Leeward coast; only a few cannon and walls remain Kimme Museum (The Castle): the late German-born sculptor Luise Kimme produced arresting larger-than-life wood and bronze sculptures inspired by local culture. Fellow sculptor Dunieski Lora Pileta now manages the museum/atelier. Reservations are required. 639-0257, luisekimme.com. Fort Bennett: a beautiful lookout point over Stonehaven Bay, complete with a little pavilion and small garden Buccoo Reef & Nylon Pool: a must on any visit to Tobago. Stretching from Pigeon Pt to Buccoo Bay, Tobago’s largest reef (comprising five reef flats) is home to some 40 species of coral. The Nylon Pool is a warm, metre-deep sandbar in the lagoon. Glass-bottom boat tours often depart Pigeon Pt and Store Bay twice (or more) daily Bon Accord Lagoon Bioluminescence: the glowing blue-green light here is caused by millions of phytoplankton emitting flashes of light to startle predators as they pass by. Tip: jump in and watch your starry outline light up the water. Stand Up Paddle Tobago offers tours

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symbol Key Waterfall Museum Sailing/Boat/ Water Tours Fort Hiking Birdwatching Turtle watching Snorkelling Cycling Place of interest Viewpoint

White-necked jacobin. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

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Did you know? The Buccoo Reef/Bon Accord Lagoon Complex is the island’s first Ramsar Site, recognised as a wetland of international importance. It was once rated by legendary French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau as the third most spectacular reef in the world. Plans were announced in 2015 for an underwater sculpture park.

The Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Bird Sanctuary: former cocoa plantation, and now a nature centre with winding trails frequented by the “king of the woods”, or motmot. The Copra House Visitor’s Centre provides information on wildlife and a brief history of the Sanctuary. Twice daily feedings (the second at 4pm) guarantee excellent bird sightings Plymouth: see the Courlander Monument (a striking sculpture commemorating 17th-century settlers from Courland, now part of Latvia); Fort James; and the Mystery Tombstone with its cryptic inscription: “She was a mother without knowing it, and a wife without letting her husband know it, except by her kind indulgences to him.” Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve: a haven for naturalists and bird watchers. See hummingbirds, tanagers and bananaquits at feeding time. A trained guide dog can lead you among the trails. Enjoy fresh fruit juices made from whatever is in season. There is a tilapia pond, guesthouses and other amenities on site Cuffie River Nature Retreat: near Moriah, this world-class bird-watching locale offers accommodation and nature tours Main Ridge Forest Reserve: tours typically start at Gilpin Trace, and can be a short and gentle 45-minute hike to an accessible waterfall, or an entire day into the interior. Other popular treks are the Atlantic,

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Blue Copper and Nilpig trails. Great for birdwatching and mountain-biking tours as well Flagstaff Hill: at the northern tip of Tobago, this former WWII American military lookout and radio tower offers panoramic views, encompassing the St Giles Islands and Charlotteville.

Fact or fiction? The Nylon Pool’s name is said to have come from the UK’s Princess Margaret, who claimed the water was as clear as her nylon stockings. We’ll also bet money that when you take a tour to Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool, your tour guide will tell you tales about the power of the waters to keep couples in love forever, to help you find your soul mate, and to heal the sick. Which certainly can’t hurt, can it?

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Atlantic/Windward coast

Did you know?

Little Tobago (Bird of Paradise Island): both a land and a sea adventure. Just 2km sq. (1.2 sq. miles), this is a trekker’s and bird watcher’s idyll. Though the imported Birds of Paradise were wiped out by hurricanes, the island is now a bird sanctuary. Glass-bottom boat tours depart Blue Waters in Speyside, twice daily Argyle Falls: between Roxborough and Belle Garden. A small admission fee gains you access (and water-proof boots) to the three levels of this Main Ridge waterfall. The challenging climb to the top tier is rewarded by three pools of deliciously cold, flowing water. Also great for bird-watching Tobago Cocoa Estate: near Roxborough, this working cocoa plantation and heritage park produces award-winning chocolate. There’s free chocolate at the end of the tour, and a chance to buy more! Genesis Nature Park & Art Gallery: meet capuchin monkeys, boa constrictors, caiman and cocrico, among other residents! There’s a small entrance fee to this private home and garden

The 14,000 acres of the Main Ridge (rising to 876m/1,890ft) encompasses the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere. It became a reserve in 1776.

Fort King George & Tobago Museum: once a strategic defence site for the island, the fort offers a beautiful view of the harbour, the capital, Bacolet and up the Windward coast from 140m (460ft) above sea level. There’s also a military cemetery, chapel, and cell-block, and the Tobago Museum displays First Peoples artefacts, colonial relics, military memorabilia and fossils from Tobago’s distant past Scarborough Botanical Gardens: majestic trees, captivating views, and a chance to relax among brilliant flambouyants, silk cotton trees, and avenues of royal palms.

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Fort King George. Photo by Chris Anderson

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Our top 5 eco experiences Turtle-watching

ne of Tobago’s beloved nature activities is watching the ancient nesting ritual of sea turtles (March–September) on the island’s beaches. The most common are the giant (and endangered) leatherback, hawksbill and green; all (and their eggs) are legally protected. Leatherbacks come ashore primarily on the southwestern coast. For further information and free guided tours contact SOS Tobago (Save Our Seaturtles Tobago), or a reputable tour guide. Many resorts on nesting beaches can help you make arrangements.

Did you know? Female leatherback hatchlings that make it to the sea will roam the oceans until they reach sexual maturity before returning to the same nesting areas to produce their own offspring. Males spend the rest of their lives at sea.

essentials Do not touch or disturb nesting turtles or hatchlings Lights, noise and activity tend to disorient both turtles and hatchlings, so don’t use flash lights or photography A leatherback turtle hatchling makes its way to the sea. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

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Diving Horse-riding If the idea of literally riding into the sunset on a Tobago beach thrills you, check out Being With Horses or Friendship Riding Stables, who offer swim-ride sessions, trail rides, picnic rides, horse-back weddings and therapeutic riding. being-with-horses.com

Diving is one of the top reasons to visit Tobago, and one of the things you should put on your bucket list if you’ve never been on a dive before. The island benefits from the convergence of nutrient-rich outflows from the Orinoco River, the Guyana current, the Southern Atlantic and the Caribbean Sea, creating a magical underwater experience for divers of all levels. Hook up with one of the PADI-certified Association of Tobago Dive Operators (ATDO) vendors, and whether you’re just learning to dive or ready to hit the most expert dive sites, you’ll be on your way (tobagoscubadiving. com). Coral formations off Tobago. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

Water-sports Enjoy kite-surfing, kayaking, stand-up-paddling, surfing and more at spots like Pigeon Pt, Mt Irvine, Grange Bay, Little Rockly Bay, Charlotteville and Speyside.

Bird-watching The central rainforest is a must-see for bird-watchers and hikers alike, as is Little Tobago. Wherever you go bird-watching, look out for blue-backed manikins, boobies, snow-white and red-billed tropicbirds (which nest in Little Tobago December–July), rare all-white hummingbirds, red-crowned woodpeckers, frigate-birds, pelicans, rufous-tailed jacamars, bananaquits, kiskidees, bluecrowned mot-mot, blue and olive tanagers, and the noisy cocrico or chacalaca.

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Tobago’s marine world Coexisting with the 300-odd species of coral documented in Tobago’s plankton-rich waters — fire coral, star coral, plate coral, sea fans, sea whips, and the largest living brain coral in the world — you’ll find 700-odd species of reef fish, including parrot fish and angel fish. You also can see stingrays of different varieties (southern, rough-tail, lesser electric ray, spotted eagle ray and the breath-taking giant manta rays); moray eels; invertebrates (crabs, shrimp and octopus); sharks (tiger, bull, nurse, reef, black-tip, hammerhead and lemon sharks) and their favourite prey like jacks, barracuda, wahoo, tarpon and tuna. And, if you’re lucky, you can spot whale sharks around Speyside, December–May.

Did you know? The largest live brain coral (about 3m/10ft by 5m/16ft) has been recorded off Speyside.

Key info

Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

Caution! Use a professional, certified dive operator Beware stinging plankton and poisonous sponges, Portuguese Man-o’-War, other jellyfish and puffer fish, fire coral, bristle worms, stingrays, sharks, moray eels, sea urchins, scorpion fish and barracudas. Typical treatment for a minor wound is to wash it with saltwater (not fresh water) and apply vinegar and cortisone cream Take care in these delicate ecosystems, especially with fragile coral. Be mindful of damaging the coral, and certainly do not remove any.

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Average water temperature: 24–29°C/75–84°F Average visibility: 15–37m/50–120ft Best visibility: April–August Depth: 9–34m/30ft–110ft (deeper hdives e are not recommended) Season: year-round, with best visibility May to July.

best dives Intermediate and advanced divers tend to head north (Speyside and Charlotteville): the water is clearer and deeper, and the marine landscape richest. Popular dives include Keleston Drain (with the world’s largest living brain coral), Japanese Gardens, London Bridge, Bookends, the Sisters rocks, St Giles Island, and — popular with beginners — Black Jack Hole and King’s Bay. In the south, though not as clear, the waters and currents are much gentler. Most beginners do their first dive in Store Bay on a small reef close to shore. Popular dives include Flying Reef, Mt Irvine Wall, Arnos Vale, Englishman’s Bay, Diver’s Dream and Diver’s Thirst, and — for experts — the Maverick wreck (sunk in 1997) off Mt Irvine. Drift diving the Columbus Passage in the south is also a phenomenal experience.

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Sporting experiences

&T has been developing the islands’ sporting infrastructure in a sports tourism thrust, including international events that draw some of the finest athletes in their fields. Whether you’re looking to participate or to spectate, here’s an introduction to the island’s most popular sports.

Cricket Scarborough’s Shaw Park is Tobago’s premier cricket location, hosting regional first-class fixtures and top local league games. Impromptu games are played island-wide. Trinidad & Tobago Cricket Board: ttcricketboard.com

Cycling International professional competitors are drawn to the Tobago International Cycling Classic. The Rainbow Triathlon Club arranges several events, including their International Triathlon. trinbagowheelers.com

Football Tobago United play T&T Pro League matches at the Dwight Yorke Stadium (Bacolet). In 2015, the THA and Professional Footballers’ Association held the inaugural Tobago Football Legends Challenge featuring 64 football stars from top UK clubs — including Yorke himself — playing teams from the PFA and the Caribbean All Stars in a six-a-side competition. Ad hoc matches also are staged on beaches and parks everywhere; visitors are welcome. Trinidad & Tobago Football Federation (TTFF): ttffonline.com • T&T Pro League: ttproleague.com

Other Contacts Sporting Company of Trinidad & Tobago: sportt-tt.com Trinidad & Tobago Olympic Committee: ttoc.org

Photo courtesy the Division of Tourism & Transportation

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Golf

Mountain biking

Tobago has two 18-hole golf courses. Mt Irvine Bay Hotel & Golf Club (mtirvine. com/golf/golf.asp) is a 127-acre, 6,793-yard championship-standard course set in an old sugar and coconut plantation overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Tobago Plantations Golf & Country Club (magdalenagrand.com/ activities/golf), also established on a former sugar cane estate, is a par-72, 7,005-yard course with stunning Atlantic Ocean views.

Mountain Bike Magazine called Tobago a “mountain biker’s island paradise”, with great terrain for bikers of all levels. Tours and rides range from easy coastal tracks with amazing views, to tours taking in historical sites, waterfalls, and beaches (some not accessible by car), and intense treks in mountainous Main Ridge terrain. Make sure to go with a reputable guide. Mountain Biking Tobago: mountainbikingtobago.com • Slow Leak Tours: tobagomountainbike.com

Sailing & yachting The dry season (December–May) is the best time for sailing: winds are stronger and more consistent. Most of the north coast offers good daytime anchorage, but only professional captains should attempt the Windward side. The Tobago Carnival Regatta is a popular annual event (for the sailing and for the attendant partying). Tour operators also provide sightseeing ocean tours and diving trips. Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association: ttsailing.org • Natural Mystic/Island Girl Sail Charters: sailtobago. com

Surfing While the waves in Tobago are less powerful than those in Barbados or Puerto Rico, they can be perfectly shaped. The season is November–April, but surfers always keep a keen eye on the sea during hurricane season. Mt Irvine (especially around Easter) and Bacolet are major surfing spots. Surfing lessons and board rentals are available at Mt Irvine; the Trinidad & Tobago Surfing Association (surftt.org) also holds the Tobago Pro Open event here.

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Triathlon

More sports!

Competitions and training events, such as the Rainbow Cup International Triathlon (mid-year), are held throughout the year. Trinidad & Tobago Triathlon Federation: triathlon.co.tt

For much more on Tobago’s sporting scene — including basketball, bodybuilding, dragon boat racing, hashing, hockey, horse racing, kayaking, martial arts, motor sports, netball, sport fishing, sailing, surfing, tennis, yoga, and more, visit our website at discovertnt.com!

Some Tobago sporting heroes Lalonde Gordon: 2012 Olympic bronze medallist (men’s 400m) and silver (men’s 4x400m relay) Josanne Lucas: the island’s first female World Championship medallist (400m hurdles in 2009) Claude Noel: Roxborough native and the nation’s first boxing World Champion, lifting the WBA’s World Lightweight title in 1981 Renny Quow: the island’s first medallist (bronze) in the men’s 400m at the World Championships (2009) Dwight Yorke: football star and leading striker for UK teams like Manchester United and Aston Villa. He captained the national team to an impressive debut at the 2006 World Cup in Germany, where T&T made history as the smallest country ever to qualify. Photo courtesy the Division of Tourism & Transportation

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PUZZLES Wordsearch Beaches Birding Buccoo Reef Carnival Coral Crown Point Diving Food Fort King George Goat races Golf Great Race Happy hour Harvests

Heritage Hiking Jazz Main Ridge Mountain bikes Pigeon Point Pulling seine Regattas Snorkelling Soca Steelpan Sunday School Sunshine Toolum

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Can you find all 10 differences?

Find the solutions on page 40

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Advertiser listings

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Tobago has many unique attractions: beautiful beaches, water-sports activities, snorkelling, diving, and a stunning natural environment. Magdalena Grand is Tobago’s premier oceanfront resort, with 178 deluxe oceanfront rooms and 22 suites, all with breathtaking views. There are three pools, a PGA-designed 18-hole golf course, tennis, spa services, a PADI 5-star dive center, nature trails, and a wide range of dining options. (866) 353-6222 Reservations@MagdalenaGrand.com MagdalenaGrand.com

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tropikist beach hotel Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort offers a stunning panoramic view; an ideal location close to the airport; and easy access to beaches, local attractions, and activities. Bask in the sun, then enjoy a cocktail as the sun sets! Tropikist… your tropical destination. Crown Point, Tobago (868) 639-8512-3 Administration Office, Trinidad (868) 671-9143/0631 tropikistbeachhotelresort@gmail. com • tropikist.com

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sherman’s auto rental shermansautorentals@gmail.com • shermansrental.com US contact: (469) 532-2544 • UK contact: 01865-594706 Tobago contact: (868) 639-2292 (office), (868) 678-3484 (mobile) Free day with every 7 days’ rental!

See ad on p30

Puzzle solutions Differences Blue bucket is orange; front beach ball’s pattern changed colour from red to blue; the boat’s name has been removed; the boat’s rope has been removed; a seagull has been added; the tiger has his stripes removed; the last two buckets are no longer there; the brick path has been extended and an extra inflatable tube has been added.

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Black Rock • Tobago • West Indies Tel: 868-639-0361 www.stonehavenvillas.com reservations@stonehavenvillas.com