2012 Big Bend & Texas Mountains Travel Guide

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100 East San Antonio St. < Marfa, TX 79843 < MarfaContemporary.org < Info@MarfaContemporary.org Facebook.com/MarfaContemporary ;]UUMZ ;XZQVO

@MarfaContemp

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Franklin Mountains State Park

f l e s r u o Y e s o L

e r u t n e v d A in -square-mile The only Texas city with a 37 iddle of town state park in the m

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Free adventure guide:JQOJMVL\ZI^MTO]QLM KWU 800-351-6024 * visitelpaso.com 3

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Lets Go Birding in Far West Texas ...... 16 Exploring Big Bend: Adventure Tourism ................................ 18 The Road to Ourselves: Cycling in the Texas Mountains........... 20

Big Bend National Park......................... 36 Guadalupe Mountains NP ..................... 23 Texas State Parks................................... 13

El Paso ...................................................... 22 Guadalupe Mountains NP ..................... 23 Van Horn .................................................. 25 Van Horn Directory ................................ 25

Publisher, Editor & Art Director:

President:

Mercer Black of Marfa Publishing

Mike Davidson, Alpine/Terlingua

Midland ..................................................... 27 Odessa ...................................................... 29 Fort Stockton ..........................................30 Balmorhea ............................................... 34

Vice President: Design Assistance:

Terry “Tex� Toler, Marfa

October Custom Publishing - octobercustompublishing.com Taylor Holland - taylorholland.com 8MQCĂ !CL 8CFSB? 8! 8 AMK

Secretary:

Beth Nobles, Texas Mountain Trail Treasurer:

Ron Sanders, Alpine/Big Bend Contributors:

At Large:

Aimee Moreland Serville, Beth Nobles, Charlie Angell, Jennifer Turner and Nancy Hollen-Black.

Randall Kinzie, Fort Davis Elizabeth Jackson, Alpine Lacey Johnson, Fort Stockton

Big Bend National Park......................... 36 Lajitas ....................................................... 38 Terlingua-Study Butte ........................... 39 Big Bend Area Map & Directory .......... 40

Photographers:

Beth Nobles of the Texas Mountain Trail, Brad Newton, Carolyn Nored Miller, David Leggett (www.davidleggett.com), Frank Cianciolo, Jesse Drohen (austinpixels.smugmug.com), Mark Flippo (www.birdingbigbend. net), Max Kandler, Stephen Pollard, Tyler Nordgren, Trevor Reichman and Voni Glaves.

Photo: Snow and ice in the Chisos. Another gorgeous shot from our cover photographer, Trevor Reichman of Terlingua.

Cover Photo:

by Trevor Reichman, Terlingua

The Big Bend Travel Guide is licensed for publication by the Big Bend & Texas Mountains Travel Association. (c) 2012 All rights reserved.

Alpine........................................................ 42 Alpine Directory ..................................... 44 Fort Davis................................................. 46 Fort Davis Directory .............................. 48 Marathon .................................................. 52 Marathon Directory ............................... 54 Marfa ......................................................... 55 Marfa Directory ...................................... 58 Presidio ....................................................60 Presidio Directory .................................. 62

Regional Map .......................................... 12

Get the free mobile app at

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8MSÂłJJ Ă‚LB RFCQC KM@GJC R?EQ RFPMSEFMSR RFC ESGBC -MR D?KGJG?P 3FCQC ?PC C?QW links for smart-phone users. Download the app and then scan the tag. You’ll be “magicallyâ€? transported to the appropriate website.

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El Paso

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128

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BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK

Study Terlingua Butte

Lajitas

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

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Rio Grande Village

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Piedras Negras

Sign up and drive to all the sights of West Texas! Rates as low as $5.00 p/hour.

Did you know that since it beg an in 1997, the Friends of Big Bend Lice te program FortPla Stockton has given over $600K in granse to the Park? Big Bend License Plate holdernts flora and fauna studies, exhibit s have paid for restoration, a digital camera tosignage, wetlands record podcasts and more. Four times now, fun registrations have also paid fords from license plates the Teacher Ranger Teacher program, which gets edu park and the park into the clas cators into the sro To get your Big Bend plate log ontom. o: http://tinyurl.com/bigbendplate 18

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100 East San Antonio St. Marfa, TX 79843 (SE Corner of Route 67 & Route 90)

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Presidio BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK

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Located inside Davis Mountains State Park, Indian Lodge is the place for rest, relaxation, good food, swimming, mountain biking, hiking and more. The historic section was built by the CCC from local materials, including adobe, ponderosa pine and river cane. Historic photographs and interpretive exhibits are housed in the original lobby.

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The largest state park in Texas, with over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers, and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.� 90

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At elevations ranging from 5000-6000 feet, attractions include the incomparable Skyline Drive, two scenic overlooks and a 4-mile hiking trail that connects Fort Davis National Historic Site to the State Park. Davis Mountains State Park boasts a newlyrenovated Interpretive Center and offers some of the better year-round bird watching in the whole region. PL

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At 77,053 Rio Grande square feet, San Solomon Spring is the focal point of Balmorhea State Park. Twenty-two to 28 million gallons of crystalline water flow from the spring each day. Visitors to Balmorhea State Park enjoy swims in the CCCconstructed impoundment and, if staying overnight, may choose to relax in one of the historic rooms at San Solomon Courts.

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is day-use only and offers picnicking areas, tours through newlyrestored and furnished rooms, plus exhibits on the region’s history: from 15th century conquistadors to Ben Leaton’s 19th century trading post to the present. The fort also serves as the western entrance for Big Bend Ranch State Park. MARATHON LANDFILL

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Photos: View from Skyline Drive in Davis Mountains State Park, the pool at Balmorhea State Park. Courtesy of Beth Nobles - Texas Mountain Trail.

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Ready to make a reservation? Contact information on the next page...

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www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/parkinfo/passes/

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The Center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998).

The Texas State Parks Pass is an annual pass that offers many special benefits to members. As a member, you and your guests enjoy unlimited visits to Texas State Parks, State Natural Areas and State Historic Sites without paying the daily entrance fees. The cost is $70 for a one-card membership. Learn more at:

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The State Parks and State Historic Sites of the Big Bend and Texas Mountains region showcase a panorama of west Texas scenes. From gushing spring waters to lofty mile-high peaks, from the harsh grandeur of Chihuahuan Desert landscapes to museum-quality exhibits, Bracketville Texas State Parks offer something for every taste. Here you will find safe, KINNEY secure and wholesome environments MAVERICK for camping, picnicking, hiking, fishing, stargazing, hunting, rock climbing, cycling, boating, floating, birding, Eagle swimming, Pass horseback riding, interpretive programming or peace and quiet. Please stop in for a visit. You’ll be glad you did!

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The greater area boasts a tota l of 17 State Parks, State Natural Are as and Historic Sites. In additio to tho State se listed here, check out: Big SpringnS.P. Devils River S.N.A. near Del Rio in Big Spring, S.N.A. in Rocksprings, Franklin , Devil’s Sinkhole Mountains S.P. in El Paso, Hueco Tanks S.P. & H.S . nea Cavern S.P. near Bracketville, r El Paso, Kickapoo Lake Colorado City SP in Colorado City, Monahans in Monahans, San Angelo S.P. inSandhills S.P. Seminole Canyon S.P. & H.S. in San Angelo, Wyler Aerial Tramway in El Pas Comstock and Visit www. tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parko. s/ to learn more about these sites and oth parks across the state of er Texas.

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FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO MAKE RESERVATIONS, CONTACT: Toyahvale (432) 375-2370 (512) 389-8900 (reservations)

INDIAN LODGE Fort Davis (432) 426-3254 (512-389-8982 (reservations)

www.tpwd.state.tx.us/balmorhea

www.tpwd.state.tx.us/indianlodge

BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK

FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE

Presidio (432) 358-4444 (512) 389-8919 (reservations)

www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fortleatonw

www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch

BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER Lajitas (432) 424-3327

www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bartonwarnock

DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK Fort Davis (432) 426-3337 (512) 389-8900 (reservations)

Four miles east of Presidio on F.M. 170 (432) 229-3613

OR VISIT: WWW.TPWD.STATE.TX.US/STATE-PARKS/ TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE OTHER AREA PARKS AND PARKS ACROSS THE STATE OF TEXAS.

www.tpwd.state.tx.us/davismountains

Photo: Hoodoos at Big Bend Ranch State Park. Courtesy of Beth Nobles Texas Mountain Trail.

Catherine Lee studio, Wimberley, Texas.

BALMORHEA STATE PARK

WEST TEXAS TRIANGLE:

CATHERINE LEE ABILENE The Grace Museum June 1 - August 16, 2012 ALBANY The Old Jail Art Center June 2 - September 9, 2012 MIDLAND Museum of the Southwest May 31 - August 12, 2012 ODESSA Ellen NoĂŤl Art Museum May 31 - August 12, 2012 SAN ANGELO San Angelo Museum of Fine Arts July 6 - September 2, 2012

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Discover Lajitas Come experience true Lone Star hospitality and the number one rated resort golf course in Texas.

Golfing • Horseback Riding • Kayaking • Wi Fi RVing • Lajitas General Store • Hiking • Biking

Cowboy Action & 5-Stand Sporting Clay Shooting

Come Experience Lajitas!

Call 877-LAJITAS Today and mention Big Bend Travel Guide for a special rate.

LajitasGolfResort.com

www.lajitasgolfresort.com/bigbendtravel

GPS: 29.25N 103.67W

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The region, referred to as the Trans-Pecos, encompasses diverse ecosystems, setting the stage for exceptional bird watching. Lying within the vast Chihuahuan Desert, the region is bound by the riparian Rio Grande corridor to the south and arid grasslands to the north. Dotting the desert landscape are forested “sky island� mountain ranges, with high elevation and cooler temperatures.

A great place to start planning your birding expedition is the Great Texas Far West Texas Wildlife Map. From El Paso to Midland-Odessa and down to the Rio Grande, explore 57 @GPB ?LB UGJBJGDC TGCUGLE QGRCQ GL RFC D?P ĂƒSLE PC?AFCQ MD Far West Texas. The map tells you whether the property is public or private, and the sites’ hours of operation, access fees and target birds. One in the series of Texas regional bird and wildlife maps, the Far West Texas Wildlife Trail is a AMMNCP?RGTC CĂ MPR @CRUCCL 3CV?Q /?PIQ 6GJBJGDC ?LB RFC Texas Mountain Trail Region.

Resident birds have become accustomed to the dinner bell at feeding time in Davis Mountains State Park, where through a large picture window at the interpretive center you can spot acorn woodpeckers, canyon towhee, scrub jays, and curve-billed thrashers. Montezuma quail are often spotted at a feeding station near the campgrounds.

Serious birders will want a copy of the comprehensive checklist of regional birds, compiled by local ornithologist Kelly Bryan and published by Texas Parks and Wildlife: Birds of RFC 3P?LQ /CAMQ Ă‚CJB "FCAIJGQR Begin your foray into Far West Texas at the Sibley Nature Center in Midland. Learn about the habitats of the Llano Estacado and so much more! A little farther down I-20, at 75 ,/' WMS KGEFR @C RCKNRCB RM ĂƒW @W ,ML?F?LQ 2R?RC /?PI !SR you won’t want to miss this little known treasure. After you’ve UMPL MSR RFC IGBQ Q?LB QSPĂ‚LE ML RFC BSLCQ QRMN ?R RFC interpretive center to view birds and wildlife through windows overlooking the watering stations. !?JKMPFC? +?IC !?JKMPFC? 2R?RC /?PI ?PC RFC UGLRCP FMKC KGEP?RMPW QRMNMTCP DMP LSKCPMSQ U?RCP DMUJ #SPGLE ? QRMN at this desert oasis, you are likely to spot scaups, mergansers or Western or Clark’s grebes. Scaled quail and vermilion ĂƒWA?RAFCPQ Ă‚LB F?@GR?R ?KMLE RFC QF?BC RPCCQ JGLGLE RFC spring-fed pool, and an easy stroll to one of the state park’s desert cienegas could yield sightings of heron, egret or plover.

If hummingbirds are your thing, Far West Texas is the place to look! In Kelly Bryan’s Hummingbirds of West Texas, he reports the region boasts 16 of the 18 species of hummingbird that occur in Texas. Feeders at sites around Fort Davis are busy from March through September. And if you’re near the Davis Mountains and Balmorhea in winter, you can volunteer to be a part of the National Audubon Society’s annual Christmas Bird Count, sponsored by Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute. Marathon residents Heidi Trudell and Matt York entertain and update us on current regional conditions and bird sightings on their blog Big Bend – Texas Nature. Their musings can help you plan birding stops at the Post Park, Gage Gardens and prairie dog town before you head into Big Bend.

Photos: Black-chinned Hummingbird and Painted Bunting. Courtesy of Stephen Pollard, wildlife photographer - Midlothian, Texas.

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In Big Bend National Park and nearby Big Bend Ranch State Park, over 450 species of resident and migratory birds have been recorded. Big Bend is known for its specialties that occur only within the Chisos Mountains or just within the border country of Texas to Arizona. Unique birds such as the Mexican mallard, Lucifer hummingbird, Mexican jay, black-capped and gray vireos, Colima warbler, blue-throated hummingbird, black-tailed EL?RA?RAFCP ?LB T?PGCB @SLRGLE MAASP FCPC ?R BGĂ CPCLR times of the year. Carolyn Ohl welcomes birders and bird photographers to her Christmas Mountains Oasis, just north of Big Bend National Park, but call ahead to schedule your visit. Find out what birds are showing up seasonally and read about water and habitat issues on her blog. $J /?QM GQ JMA?RCB ML ? L?RSP?J ĂƒWU?W UFCPC KMPC RF?L 200 species have been recorded. Birding in this area will take you into and through the Franklin Mountains and Hueco Tanks State Historic Site. The local Audubon Society has created an excellent birding area at Feather Lakes Wildlife Sanctuary, and local groups are rehabilitating nearby Rio Bosque Wetlands Park. Keystone Heritage Park is an archaeological site where an urban wetland and desert botanical garden attract migrating and breeding species.

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Purchase a copy of the Far West Texas Wildlife Trail map for an inclusive list of birding wildlife viewing sites in the regand You can find the map at area stoion. res or online at www.texasmountaintrail.com

¸ 3CV?Q /?PIQ ?LB 6GJBJGDC www.tpwd.state.tx.us/ For an unforgettable birding experience in Big Bend, ask Mark Flippo to show you around. Mark was with the National Park Service for 30 years, and most recently supervisory park ranger at Big Bend National Park and the park’s lead bird expert. Mark and his wife Kymi operate Birding Big Bend from their home in Terlingua. Their mantra: “The best bird is the one in your binoculars!â€? Mountain Trails Outdoor Learning Center, in Fort Davis, organizes tours for Road Scholar educational adventures, created by Elderhostel, Inc., and private groups wanting to bird in the Davis Mountains, Big Bend and Copper Canyon, Mexico. Birding tours range from beginner to expert and can be customized depending on the size and interests of the group, participants’ physical abilities and season.

¸ 2G@JCW -?RSPC "CLRCP www.sibleynaturecenter.org ¸ "FGFS?FS?L #CQCPR -?RSPC "CLRCP www.cdri.org ¸6CQR 3CV?Q 'SKKGLE@GPBQ www.westtexashummingbirds.com ¸ !GPBGLE !GE !CLB UGRF ,?PI *WKG %JGNNM www. birdingbigbend.net ¸ ,MSLR?GL 3P?GJQ +MBEC .SRBMMP +C?PLGLE "CLRCP www.mountaintrailslodge.com

3FC QNCAG?J @GPBQ WMS Ă‚LB ML WMSP RPGN UGJJ BCNCLB ML the time of year and your physical activity level. For instance, the Colima warbler is mostly found at high elevations in the Chisos Mountains between April and August and requires a strenuous hike to get to its habitat. Tour guides will do their level best to help WMS Ă‚LB RFC R?PECR @GPBQ WMS ?PC GLRCPCQRCB GL @SR sometimes it may take more than one trip to get all those special birds! The use of playback devices to attract birds is at best controversial, and in some places prohibited. Big Bend –Texas Nature blog says it best. “We do not and will not use playback or any form of audio: it is prohibited in the parks and is frowned upon, especially during droughtstressed conditions.â€?

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Photo: Pyrrhuloxia. Courtesy of Mark Flippo @ birdingbigbend.net

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   Their perspective of the Big Bend is unparalleled - to see the topography of the Trans-Pecos from this height is not unlike viewing a living map. Don’t try strapping on homemade wings like Icarus; instead, climb into a sleek aircraft with Marfa Gliders and experience RFC RFPGJJ MD LML KMRMPGXCB ĂƒGEFR 2CC RFC J?LBQA?NC from an elevation few have, raptor-style, and hear the whoosh of the air as you cruise along. Next, lace up your boots and get to climbing. There are enough options out here for any ages and skill levels. Try McKittrick Canyon in Guadalupe National Park or the Guadalupe Peak trail, or make it a multi-day and hike the connecting trails from end to end. Big Bend National Park’s Chisos Mountains have many options: the South Rim is a classic that can be hiked in part or the entire loop; the Lost Mine Trail, Pine Canyon, and the Windows Trail are scenic and challenging. Davis Mountains State Park has several trails in the upper elevations and you can also hike down from these to Fort Davis National Historic Site - making it a multi-park adventure. Big Bend Ranch State Park has a myriad of hiking trails to choose from: take the Rancherias West loop to the top of Guale Mesa for a view that is like a miniGrand Canyon, with a scene stretchingout for 50+ miles and into Mexico. Or, hike into the Solitario, a 10 mile wide collapsed magma dome that once helped to create the terrain around it through volcanic activity.

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If you like to ride a bike, the middle to lower elevations can keep you pedaling for days on end. Popular areas for road cycling enthusiasts are the Davis Mountains Observatory Loop, and the River Road, FM 170, between Presidio and Lajitas. These roads have steep hills and sharp curves that many professionals prefer. Just make sure you have the skills and gear necessary for a safe ride, and don’t forget that you will share these roads with sight-seeing motorists. For mountain bikers, Big Bend Ranch State Park is swiftly becoming a mecca, with the Fresno-Sauceda Epic Loop as its main pilgrimage. The International Mountain Biking Association has designated this route as “EPICâ€?, one of only 2 in the American southwest. In fact, this 52-mile loop is now known as the best multi-day ride in the Southwest, tracing a route through canyons, washes, old mines and other historic sites. Again, K?IC QSPC WMSP EC?P ?LB R?JCLR ?PC SN RM QLSĂ MP MNR RM BM QCARGMLQ MD the loop as opposed to its entirety. Day riders can also try the Lajitas Trails with its trail head located at the Lajitas Airport entry. Local guides provide bikes, equipment, support and advice, as needed. Hard-core mountain bikers will want to attend the Chihuahuan Desert Dirt Fest, held every February on Presidents Day weekend. If you want to ride “old-schoolâ€?, drop the iron horse and grab the real thing. Horseback riding is a popular and classic way to experience the magic of the old west. Lajitas Stables can take you through an endless number of canyons and across desert mesas, or try a gallop with Chinati Mountains 'MPQC@?AI RFPS LECJJ $VNCBGRGMLQ +?HGR?Q 1CQMPR ?JQM MĂ CPQ QICCR QFMMRGLE old-west target shooting and ATV rides. After all this excitement take a break

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?LB AMMJ Mà GL !?JKMPFC? 2R?RC /?PI³Q QNPGLE DCB pool, which maintains a temperature of 72-76 degrees of gin-clear water. Swim with the turtles ?LB ÂQF MP R?IC 2AS@? BGTGLE JCQQMLQ RFPMSEF Toyahvale Desert Oasis right next to the Park. If water is what you want, the Rio Grande has what you need. Descending into the lowest elevations of the Big Bend means jumping into a watercraft and canoeing, kayaking or rafting the famed river that provides the border between Mexico and Texas. Depending on water conditions, rapids up to Class IV can exist, enough to give you your fair share of adrenaline. Colorado Canyon, Santa Elena Canyon, Mariscal and Boquillas Canyons ?JJ DC?RSPC QFCCP TCPRGA?J AJGà D?ACQ @PM?B A?LWML CVN?LQCQ ?LB P?NGBQ APC?RCB DPMK @MSJBCP ÂJJCB rock slides. Plenty of calm stretches exist for those who prefer to relax, but hiring one of the several experienced local guides is highly recommended for any stretch of the river. The Rio Grande can be treacherous if you don’t have the knowledge these seasoned professionals possess. As with any outdoor activities in the Big Bend, cell phone service is rare and spotty at best, so getting in a tight spot can be a trip-ender. Local guides have the experience and knowledge to see you

through safely and can regale you with tales of the region and their own exploits. If the river gets in your blood and you want to take a trip into the wildest wilderness out here, continue your descent in elevation and ride the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande, 7-plus days of civilization-free ĂƒM?RGLE 3FGQ HMSPLCW GQ ILMUL ?PMSLB @M?RGLE circles as one of the last wild and scenic trips left in America. Again, hiring a seasoned guide is the only way to attempt a trip of this remoteness and challenges. Floating this stretch of the river will steadily take you lower and lower in elevation as you wind your way towards Lake Amistad, passing by scenery few have ever witnessed. The list of activities in the Big Bend are too numerous to include it its entirety here. Please contact an Outdoor Recreation specialist in whatever community you may be visiting. You can Ă‚LB RFCK @W AFCAIGLE RFC BGPCARMPGCQ RFPMSEFMSR the guide. If you’re like most visitors, your last B?W GL RFC PCEGML UGJJ @C WMSP Ă‚PQR B?W MD K?IGLE plans to return. We welcome you to share in the grand play of life in the best region Texas has to MĂ CP RFC !GE !CLB

Photos: Opposite - Big Bend Ultra Runners , courtesy of Friends of Big Bend. Marfa Gliders, photo by Christopher Ohl. Riders on a Lajitas Stables tour, photo by Armando Rodriguez.

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My saddle isn’t on a horse, but it doesn’t matter. I’ve got the frontier to myself; and the last car passed 30 minutes ago. There’s something special about cycling the roads and trails of Far West Texas. Pick your speed; take things as slow or as fast as you want. Power yourself down mountain passes. Dawdle and you’ll spot the red blossoms of claret cup cactus. There’s time to look, think, sweat, imagine. You’re free, not confined to the metal box of a car or a truck. There’s great riding for everyone. A couple of years ago, Big Bend Ranch State Park’s Fresno-Sauceda Loop earned EPIC status for their mountain biking trails by the International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA). One of only 44 trails worldwide earning this designation, the Loop offers highly technical sections on single-track, old 4x4 and jeep roads, as well as easier sections alongside historic routes, old cinnabar mines, ancient rock art, and old homesteads. A 68 page guide, downloadable from the park’s website (www.tpwd.state.

tx.us/ and search for “Big Bend Ranch State Park), helps visitors plan their adventures. A mountain biking guide can be hired through the park itself (call 432/358-4444 for information) or an area outfitter can provide a complete experience. Check the directories throughout the guide for a list of Outdoor Recreation specialists in each community. Nearby Lajitas Golf Resort (www. lajitasgolfresort.com) also offers mountain biking experiences, and bike rental. And while Big Bend National Park (www.nps.gov/bibe) doesn’t allow bikes on trails, mountain bikes are allowed on any road—paved or unpaved—within park boundaries. El Paso’s Franklin Mountains used to be hard for visitors to navigate by bike, but with GeoBetty’s new mountain biking maps available online or at local shops, the trails are suddenly accessible to everyone. An L.A. Times reporter called the trails, “downright punishing,� to the delight of experienced mountain bikers. www. GeoBetty.com

Photo: Biking in Big Bend Ranch State Park, courtesy of Texas Parks and Wildlife.

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Typically held mid-January, El Paso’s Franklin Mountains host the El Paso Puzzler with long ride competitions of 35 and 50 miles, plus a 10 mile fun ride. www.elpasopuzzler.com The Chihuahuan Desert Dirt Fest is held at Big Bend Ranch State Park, Big Bend National Park, and Lajitas Golf Resort in February. There’s an organized ride for every mountain biker, starting with a 10 mile kid’s ride to a two day EPIC ride through Big Bend Ranch State Park. www.desertsportstx.com Hammerfest and Cyclefest are hosted by the Permian Basin Bicycle Association and both events have been based in Fort Davis for some 40 years. Hammerfest is a Texas Cup One division Stage Race, typically held in April each year . Cyclefest is a fun ride for anyone, held the third weekend in September. www.pbbatx. com Once they see our low “trafficâ€? numbers, city cyclists can’t wait to get out on our roads. Flat, easy routes are as likely to take you past scenic vistas and interesting historic spots as those with challenging mountain climbs. And with little to no interaction with motorists, our Far West Texas communities are a dream location for cyclists. The Texas Mountain Trail has several “heritage bike routesâ€? online (at www.texasmountaintrail.com/ bike) for you to discover, including: • A family-friendly, 10 mile (5 miles out, 5 miles back in) route past formal gardens, a historic cemetery, near a Buffalo Soldier and Comanche encampment, to a desert oasis with waterfowl and wildlife, called “Ride to the Postâ€? starting in Marathon • A 55 mile ride from the historic 1930s cattleman’s hotel, Hotel El Capitan to the base of Guadalupe Mountains National Park. The “El Capitan to El Capitan Heritage Bike Routeâ€? travels along completely unspoiled mountain scenery still “the most weirdly beautiful stretches of country to be found in Texas.â€? Nearby, the site of the last Indian battle in the state. • Fort Davis’ Scenic Loop 74 miles is a goal for many of Texas’ best cyclists with a starting elevation of just over 5,000 feet, to a peak of 6,260 feet taking riders past the famed McDonald Observatory, and through the charming community of Fort Davis. Total elevation gain of 3,146 feet makes this one of the most challenging and scenic rides in the state. ;]UUMZ ;XZQVO

Touring cyclists with loaded panniers are a common sight in the region, as our mountain communities sit on Adventure Cycling Association’s cross-country Southern Tier route. Solo, self-supported riders as well as tour groups travel this route through El Paso, Sierra Blanca, Fort Davis, Alpine and Marathon, on the route which stretches from Florida to California. (www.adventurecycling.org) Some of the best bike tour companies offer organized, supported rides through our region. The folks at Adventure Cycling also promote shorter routes, including our own 2 night adventure, Texas Mountain Ride! which features a loop from Marathon to Fort Davis, to Marfa and Alpine before ending at Marathon. (Select “Texas� at www.bikeovernights.org)

e The Texas Mountain Trail organization lists a variety of lodging properties offering special services to travelers with bicycles. From historic hotels to friendly B&Bs, to established chain motels and independent motor courts and casitas, these properties allow bike parking in rooms and have pumps ready for flat tires. Some offer sag service or have basic bike tools on hand. To learn more, see the full listing at: www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike

Regardless of where you ride, road or trail, take a few tips from local cyclists. First, bring lots of water with you. You’re in the desert and you’ll need to keep hydrated. Second, tire shredders are everywhere—cactus thorns, agave tips, sharp rocks. Plan ahead. Put slime in your tubes. Bring spares and plenty of CO2 cartridges or a good pump. Definitely bring a patch kit. Third, ride early or late in the day to avoid the strongest rays of the sun; wear protective clothing and sunscreen.

*%@™'*@ ™&%@ Sunday, January 20, 2013 Public Registration Opens June 1, 2012

www.bigbendfriends.org 512-529-1149

Whether you hop on your saddle for a brief spin around our charming small towns, or an EPIC ride on a rugged mountain trail, there’s great adventure waiting for you on bicycle in the Texas mountains. Check out the Texas Mountain Trail cycling page for updates on events, routes and cycle-friendly hotels: www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike

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EL PASO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU 1 Civic Plaza Downtown El Paso www.VisitElPaso.com (800) 351-6024 As you watch the sun rise over a picturesque mountain backdrop, a city brimming with adventure comes to life. El Paso curves around a still-wild terrain of mountains and foothills that promise, after a short climb or a cable-car ride on a Swiss-made gondola, a breathtaking panoramic view. Fresh-air excursions alone can give you plenty of reasons to get up and go. Add 315 days of sun to the equation and you can live a Hemingway novel in about a week — unless you’d rather use all that sunshine to relax by a pool. El Paso’s native friendliness, warm sunshine and untamed mountains will make your trip here the absolute opposite of a themed, fabricated experience. It’s for real explorers. Discover it for yourself. Real adventure is still alive in El Paso.

EL PASO DOWNTOWN ARTS DISTRICT This district features unique shopping, a walking tour of historic downtown, the El Paso Museums of Art and History, public artworks and the beautifully restored Plaza Theatre. The area also has several locally owned restaurants and bars and is a lively spot for visitors of all ages.

HUECO TANKS STATE HISTORIC SITE World renowned for rock-climbing, Hueco Tanks is also known for its many Native American rock paintings and unique geology. Pictograph tours are offered and you can also hike, camp and picnic on the grounds.

HISTORIC MISSION TRAIL The El Paso Mission Trail is comprised of three of the oldest continually active missions in the United States; Ysleta and Socorro Missions (both built in 1682) and Presdio Chapel of San Elizario (established in 1789). www.themissiontrail.net

Photos: Mountain biking in Franklin Mountains State Park (photo by Dennis McElveen), event at the Plaza Theatre, Wyler Aerial Tramway, Hueco Tanks State Park and poppies at Franklin Mountains. Courtesy of El Paso CVB.

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FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS STATE PARK Hike, bike or run the rugged terrain of this 37-square mile state park that sits in the middle of the city.

WYLER AERIAL TRAMWAY The tramway offers a view of 7,000 square miles, two countries and three states from the 5,632-foot elevation at the southern edge of the Franklin Mountains.

EL PASO MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AT WILDERNESS PARK The El Paso Museum of Archaeology provides visitors with a glimpse into the preservation of archaeological and anthropological artifacts through research, exhibits, education, etc. The museum grounds include trails with more than 200 native plant varieties and outdoor exhibits.

NATIONAL BORDER PATROL MUSEUM Located next door to the El Paso Museum of Archaeology, the National Border Patrol Museum is the only museum of its kind in the United States. Exhibits cover the history of the Border Patrol and features displays of documents, paintings, weapons, artifacts and vehicles. *QO *MVL <M`I[ 5W]V\IQV[ <ZI^MT /]QLM

...could easily be described as one of America's best-kept secrets... Located north of Van Horn on the Texas-New Mexico border, the 86,416 acres of Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GMNP) represent some of the most varied and beautiful hiking trails in all of Texas. With elevations in the park ranging from 3,689 feet at the gypsum dunes to the west of the Guadalupe Mountains, to the highest peak in Texas, Guadalupe Peak, at 8,749 feet, visitors are treated to a tremendous diversity of native plants and animals. With 46,850 acres of designated wilderness, GMNP preserves the largest wilderness area in the state of Texas. Established on September 30, 1972, GMNP is part of the Guadalupe Mountains range, which stretches from Carlsbad, NM to the salt flats and gypsum dunes just east of Dell City. Those gypsum dunes are the second largest in North America, after those of White Sands National Monument. Guadalupe Peak, and the surrounding Guadalupe Mountains, are part of an ancient marine fossil reef that was under the vast Delaware inland sea 260-270 million years ago. It is regarded as one of the world’s best examples of Middle Permian geology, attracting geologists from around the world. In addition to the Guadalupe Mountains, the 400-mile, horseshoe-shaped El Capitån Reef is now exposed in the Glass Mountains, near Alpine, as well as the Apache Mountains. In the Pine Springs Visitor Center (5,013 feet in elevation), educational videos and exhibits shed light on the geologic history of the park. Other exhibits showcase the abundant and diverse plant life and wildlife. Visitors may join a park ranger for an interpretive talk or walk on one the park’s trails. Discover the cultural history of the park at one of the heritage sites, such as the recently-restored Frijole Ranch Schoolhouse, Williams Ranch, Ship on the Desert, Pratt Cabin, remnants of Buffalo Soldier encampments or the Pinery Butterfield Overland Stage station. Explore the natural beauty and grandeur along the hiking trails, taking in views of

everything from harsh desert landscapes to lush streamside woodlands, rich in oaks and maples. Perhaps the most popular attraction is the brilliant fall display of red, orange and yellow Bigtooth Maples in McKittrick Canyon, which peak in late October. Families with children will find Junior Ranger, Senior Ranger and Junior Paleontologist programs chalked full of age-appropriate activities. The park website provides a schedule of park activities and updates on fall color showings to aid travelers in planning their visits.

www.nps.gov/gumo/.

EXPLORE THE GUADLUPES A hiker’s paradise, GMNP boasts more than 80 miles of trails, meandering through woodland canyons and lush riparian springs, as well as those zigzagging up steep switchbacks through the park’s rugged wilderness to Guadalupe Peak, Bush Mountain, The Bowl, Bear Canyon, Pine Top, McKittrick Ridge, Shumard Canyon, Hunter Peak, Dog Canyon and the distinctive El Capitån (which, at 8,085 feet above sea level, is an imposing sentinel at the west end of the Guadalupes). There are two short, easy hikes - the 0.4 mile Manzanita Spring trail or the Pinery trail (0.67 miles) - both of which are paved and wheelchair accessible. Moderate trails, such as McKittrick Canyon (4.8 - 6.8 miles, depending on the route), are available, as well as strenuous trails, such as the Guadalupe Peak Trail (8.4 miles) or The Bowl (9.3 miles). These trails require several hours and ample supplies. Sixty percent of the park’s trails are available for horseback riding, though visitors must bring their own stock. Either by foot or horse, the park is a place to discover fossils and explore geologic and human history, observe native wildlife, view colorful wildflowers, capture great photos, create paintings or simply gaze into the wondrous, star-filled night sky.

Photos: McKittrick Canyon at Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Courtesy of Beth Nobles and the Texas Mountain Trail.

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FEES AND PASSES

Guadalupe Mountains National Park annual passes are $20 for each immediate family. Seven-day permits are available at a rate of $5 per adult. Children under age 16 are free. Camping permits are $8 per site. Campers should pay cash at the self-registration board near the rest room or may pay by credit card at the Pine Springs Visitors Center. America the Beautiful Annual Passes may be purchased for $80 and are good for entry, as well as other services and discounts at federal public lands. Lifetime America the Beautiful Senior Passes (for U.S. Citizens or Permanent Residents aged 62 or older) may be purchased for $10 and lifetime America the Beautiful Access Passes may be obtained, free of charge, by U.S. Citizens and Permanent Residents who have qualifying permanent disabilities.

EXPERIENCE WEST TEXAS HISTORY Discover the park’s Native American, cavalry (including the Buffalo Soldiers) and pioneer ranching history at one of the well-preserved historic sties. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Frijole Ranch Cultural Museum features the homes and outbuildings of various Anglo settlers, including the Smith family who operated their small truck farm and orchard from 1906 to 1942. The Pinery is one of the best-preserved and highest staging outposts on the Butterfield-Overland Route, which ran from St. Louis to San Francisco from 1858 until the outbreak of the Civil War. The Pinery station Part of the Guadalupe Mountains adventure is the extreme remoteness of the park. Be sure to fill up on supplies and gas before heading that way!

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ceased operations in August 1859, when the route was shifted southward to give it better protection from raids and provide better access to water. Hikers in McKittrick Canyon may visit Pratt Cabin or Ship on the Desert, constructed by Petroleum Engineer Wallace E. Pratt, who was instrumental in the creation of the park. Park visitors with a 4x4 vehicle and lust for adventure can visit the historic Williams Ranch, one of the earliest park homesteads with a well-documented, albeit colorful, history. Before traveling that way, stop by the Pine Springs Visitor Center to check-out a gate key and be aware that the drive, though only a little over 7 miles, takes about an hour. Guadalupe Mountains National Park has two front country campgrounds - Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, a group campground and group picnic area at Frijole Ranch and ten back country campgrounds spread throughout the park. Obtain back country camping permits at the Pine Springs Visitors Center daily between 8:00 AM and 4:15 PM. Entrance fees can be paid at any of the trail heads. Simply fill out the fee envelope and deposit at any trail head collection safe (the “iron ranger�). Display your detachable stub on your vehicle dashboard. Before you venture into the back country or before you leave to go back home, make sure to visit the GMNP bookstore in the Pine Springs Visitor Center to purchase a variety of books about the park, maps or postcards. The park’s non-profit cooperating association partner, the Carlsbad Caverns Guadalupe Mountains Association supports programs at the park from revenues at the bookstore. If you would like to spend more time helping the park directly, inquire about the park’s Volunteers-In-Parks (VIP) program. For more information about Guadalupe Mountains National Park, visit www.nps.gov/gumo/ or call 915-828-3251 ext. 2124 for updated information.

Photos: Chola blossom, historic photo of Frijole Ranch (this and more historic photography can be viewed at the small museum on the site - photo courtesy of GMNP), view from the top of Texas. All photos courtesy of Beth Nobles and the Texas Mountain Trail, unless otherwise noted.

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Van Horn Convention & Visitors Bureau 1801 W. Broadway Street #101 www.vanhorntexas.org (866) 4-A-HOWDY

>)6 07:6 Van Horn was established in 1881, when the Texas and Pacific Railway came through. Before that, it was a stopping point for travelers on the Old Spanish Trail and the San Antonio-El Paso Overland Mail route. Today, Van Horn, is the county seat of Culberson County, sitting at the helm of the western portion of the region, almost exactly halfway between Fort Stockton and El Paso. Of the many area attractions, a large number of visitors to Van Horn are those heading up to Guadalupe Mountains National Park and on to Carlsbad Caverns just across the Texas/New Mexico border. Many choose to stay in the newly remodeled historic Hotel El Capitan, one of the Trost & Trost hotels that dot this part of the country. The El Capitan is a newly remodeled gem of historic architecture. Anyone interested in the historical aspects of West Texas will want to stop at the Clark Hotel Museum. The Museum contains a stunning collection of artifacts reflecting the history of Van Horn and the surrounding area. It features an old western style saloon with a mirrored back bar, which have been in the same room since the early 1900s. There are displays showing the history of mining, ranching, the railroad, and other early activities, as well as personal items which belonged to members of early pioneer families who first settled here. Photos: Red Rock Ranch, a cowboy at the annual

rodeo, the road to Guadalupe Mountains NP. All photos courtesy of Beth Nobles and the Texas Mountain Trail.

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Attractions

GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK Enjoy one of the most beautiful drives in Texas en route to the stunning and varied landscapes of the Guadalupe Mountains. Just one hour north of Van Horn, this national park is home to the highest peak in the state, Guadalupe Peak at 8,749 feet. Enjoy a variety of hiking trails accessible year-round, historic sites and interpretive displays. See page 22 for much more information on Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.nps.gov/gumo

HISTORIC HOTEL EL CAPITAN The Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930 based on designs by notable architect Henry Trost, of Trost and Trost of El Paso (read more about Trost on Page 57). It was a cattleman’s hotel for the first 40 years and the prime location for social events within a 75 mile radius of Van Horn. The hotel closed in the 1970s and became the Van Horn State Bank. In 2008 the building was purchased with plans to restore it to its 1930s splendor. After a $2,500,000 renovation, the El Capitan is even more superb that in 1930. There are now 38 rooms and suites, a fine dining room and the Gopher Hole Bar. www.hotelelcapitan.net

THE EL CAPITAN TO EL CAPITAN HERITAGE BIKE ROUTE A 55 mile ride along a scenic and historic route! Cyclists from all over are coming to ride Highway 54 between the Historic Hotel El Capitan and El Capitan Mountain in Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

MOUNTAIN VIEW GOLF COURSE Excellent views of the surrounding mountain ranges and desert environment enhance this 9-hole course which is designed specifically for the amateur golfer who enjoys a peaceful mix of challenge, leisure and exercise. (432) 283-2682 - www.houstonbizdir.com/vanhorn

CLARK HOTEL MUSEUM

FOOD & DRINK

DINING ROOM AT THE HOTEL EL CAPITAN AND THE GOPHER HOLE BAR 100 East Broadway (877) 283-1220 www.hotelelcapitan.net | www.hotel-motel-lodging.com Restaurant and full bar open every day at 5pm. Dinner service starts at 6pm.

LODGING HOTEL EL CAPITAN

100 East Broadway (877) 283-1220 www.hotelelcapitan.net | www.hotel-motel-lodging.com A historic Trost & Trost hotel in the heart of Van Horn. 39 rooms, dining room and shopping. The quintessential west Texas lodging experience.

OUTDOOR RECREATION RED ROCK RANCH TOURS

Office located in downtown Van Horn - 305 Broadway Street. (800) 735-6911 www.redrockranchtours.com Tours, hiking, pictographs, movie sets, rock hounding.

Located in the historic hotel that once served railroad travelers, this museum features pioneer, Native American and railroad memorabilia. A highlight is an old saloon bar which provides great photographic opportunities. www.clarkhotelmuseum.com

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MIDLAND

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MIDLAND

CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU *QO *MVL <M`I[ 5W]V\IQV[ <ZI^MT /]QLM

Midland CVB 109 North Main Street www.VisitMidlandTexas.com (800) 624-6435

When most people think of Midland, Texas, they envision big hats, oil rigs, cowboy boots and true Texas manners. They’re not far off. Folks in the Permian Basin are proud of their Texas roots and the prosperity they’ve found in the oil business. But beyond that, they’ve carved out a niche in the world that is unlike most others you’ll experience in your travels. Nicknamed the “Tall City�, for its jutting downtown against the vast plains of the basin, Midland’s downtown and area attractions make it a great place to start your journey westward. Take a look at what they have to offer and maybe you’ll see why they call it “your window to the west.�

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHWEST Explore the museum and see the many collections and rotating exhibits, with more than 12,000 works of art. While you’re there visit the hands-on children’s museum and see the stars at the planetarium. (432) 683-2882 or www.museumsw.org

CAF AIRPOWER MUSEUM World renowned for World War II artifacts, the museum is host to the world’s largest collection of Aviation Nose and the annual CAF AIRSHO in October. (432) 563-1000 or www.airpowermuseum.org

GEORGE W. BUSH PRESIDENTIAL CHILDHOOD HOME Nowhere else has one building been home to so many influential people. This 1,492-square-foot house has been called home by two presidents, two governors, a former CIA director and ambassador to China, and a first lady. (432) 685-1112 or www.bushchildhoodhome.org

PERMIAN BASIN PETROLEUM MUSEUM AND CHAPARRAL GALLERY Roam the 60,000 square feet of the museum and discover the history of oil and the important role Midland has a brand new, it plays in our past, present and future. See firstworld-class theater. hand the chaparral race cars whose designs have Check out the Wagner Noel a prominent place in racing history. Performing Arts Center at: (432) 683-4403 or www.petroleummuseum.org www

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Photos: Beautiful oilfield sunset, the Blakemore Planetarium (www.museumsw.org). Courtesy of Midland CVB.

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Odessa Convention & Visitors Bureau 700 N. Grant Avenue www.OdessaCVB.com (800) 780-4678

Founded in 1881 as a water stop and cattle shipping point on the Texas and Pacific Railway, Odessa has grown to be a real metropolitan area, with all the accoutrements of big city living. In fact, Odessa is one of the most economicallyimportant cities in Texas. But beyond the rigs, the roughnecks and the rodeos, is a simple town with a heart of gold. With that great fortitude, comes great respect for culture and the arts. Not to mention, a penchant for professional sports. Home to sports organizations, such as North American Hockey League team the Odessa Jackalopes, this is the place to stay when you’re looking for in-city activities that will wow the kids and entertain mom and dad, as well.

ELLEN NOEL ART MUSEUM

THE GLOBE OF THE GREAT SOUTHWEST

The variety of exhibitions and permanent collections offered by the museum include historically significant art, outstanding contemporary art and juried exhibitions of regional art. 4909 E. University. www.noelartmuseum.org

The Globe of the Great Southwest is modeled after the original Shakespearean theatre and presents a variety of theatrical entertainment and local productions. 2308 Shakespeare Road in Odessa. (432) 332-1586 or www.globesw.org Each stone in the Stonehenge replica on the campus of UTPB weighs 20,000 pounds and is composed of limestone WHITE-POOL HOUSE MUSEUM from a nearby quarry in Big Spring, Oldest existing residential structure in Odessa, TX. While the original Stonehenge may built in 1887, has period furnishings and reflects have taken as many as 2000 years to build, the replica was assembled in lifestyles from the 1880s ranching period to the just over 6 weeks. 1920s oil era. www.white-poolhouse.org

ODESSA METEOR CRATER MUSEUM & VISITOR CENTER The crater, the second largest in the nation, is approximately 550 feet in diameter and almost 100 feet deep. Just west of Odessa off I-20, exit 108. (432) 381-0946

fun fact

Photos: Memorial Park, courtesy of Odessa CVB. Stonehenge at the University of Texas Permian Basin, by David Leggett - www.davidleggett.com.

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Fort Stockton was established in March 1859 as Camp Stockton. The army withdrew from Texas during the Civil War and abandoned Fort Stockton in 1861. Confederate troops briefly occupied the site until they, too, withdrew in 1862. In July 1867, Fort Stockton was re-established by four Companies of the 9th U.S. Cavalry Regiment. The 9th was one of the new regiments organized after the Civil War staffed with African American enlisted men known as Buffalo Soldiers. The community was originally known as Saint Gall, but the locals changed the name to Fort Stockton in 1881. Fort Stockton was incorporated as a city in December of 1910 and elected its first Mayor in 1911. Fort Stockton is the County Seat of Pecos County, the second largest county in the state. Covering nearly 5,000 square miles, Pecos County is one of the Texas’s largest energy producers and is the only county in the state that is a top ten producer of renewable energy, oil and natural gas. Agriculture, retail sales and tourism are also important contributors to the local economy.

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Attractions FORT STOCKTON VISITOR CENTER Located in the renovated Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railroad Depot, the Visitor Center provides information on local and regional attractions. The surrounding grounds house interpretive displays on Comanche Springs, Buffalo Soldiers, Early Pioneers, Vaqueros and Comanche Indians. Also located at the Center is the operational Pecos County/Fort Stockton Renewable Energy Park, featuring wind and solar power generation that supplies energy for operations at the Visitor Center. 1000 Railroad Avenue (432) 336-2264 www.historicfortstocktontx.com

HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON DRIVING TOUR Beginning at the Visitor Center, the self-guided driving tour of the Historic District features seventeen locations with descriptive signage and period photographs. (432) 336-2264

PAISANO PETE Paisano Pete, located in the center of town on the corner of Main and Dickinson, is inarguably one of the most recognizable roadside attractions in the southwest. Fort Stockton’s unofficial mascot was erected in 1980 and declared the largest roadrunner in the world, at 11 feet tall and 22 feet long. “Pete� was the idea of Mayor Gene Cummings and has been an enduring symbol of the community since his arrival and he is one of the most photographed �birds� in the world.

OLD FORT CEMETERY

HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON This important Indian Wars Fort was active from 1867 to 1886. It was strategically placed at Comanche Springs to protect the San Antonioto-El Paso mail, freight wagons, cattle drives and emigrants. Today Historic Fort Stockton consists of four of the original buildings and reconstructed barracks housing the museum and period displays. 301 East Third Street (432) 336-2400

ANNIE RIGGS MEMORIAL MUSEUM Built in 1899, the museum is an excellent example of Territorial Architecture. The Riggs family donated the building to the Fort Stockton Historical Society in 1956 for use as a museum of the town’s wild and colorful history with displays featuring area geology, archeology and pioneer life. 301 South Main. (432) 336-2167

DESERT PINES MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE This 18 hole course is home to Blaine McCallister, a leading PGA touring professional. Open Tuesday-Sunday. (432) 336-2050

JAMES ROONEY MEMORIAL PARK Home to the historic Comanche Springs Pavilion and Swimming Pool built in 1938 over the Big Chief Spring, the pool is the site of Fort Stockton’s annual Water Carnival. 208 S. Highway 285, Pool – 200 Spring Drive (432) 336-2751

In use from 1859-1912, grave markers are a testament to the hard and often violent life on the early frontier. *QO *MVL <M`I[ 5W]V\IQV[ <ZI^MT /]QLM

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FORT STOCKTON WATER CARNIVAL

BLUE MOON ON THE PARK CONCERT SERIES

The Fort Stockton Water Carnival tradition began back in 1936, when Comanche Springs flowed freely and Texas was celebrating its Centennial. The annual event occurs the third weekend in July and includes singing, dancing, water ballet performances and the crowning of Ms. Fort Stockton. Held at Comanche Springs Pool and Pavilion; the three day event continues to be run by local volunteers. (432) 336-2264

Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Chamber of Commerce, this free six session summer concert series is held at Zero Stone Park in Downtown Fort Stockton. Many types of music are celebrated including jazz, swing and hard rock. The concerts are held every other Friday beginning June 3rd and ending August 12th. (432) 336-2264

SUMMER OFF THE PATIO CONCERT SERIES

Held annually on the Historic Fort Grounds the third weekend in October, Old Fort Days brings history to life with period re-enactors and demonstrations. Military units representing the periods of occupation of Fort Stockton are represented as are the civilian population that lived near the Historic Fort. Demonstrations of skills needed to survive during the early settlement of the southwest are presented as well as military demonstrations of infantry, cavalry and artillery skills. (432) 336-2400

Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Historical Society, this free six session summer concert series is held at the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum, off of the back porch featuring historic period and western themed music. The concerts are held every other Thursday beginning June 9th through August 18th. (432) 336-2167

MARATHON 2 MARATHON This Boston Marathon qualifying run now enters Marathon, TX from Fort Stockton side of Hwy 385. This faster course hosts a 5K, 10K half and full marathons. www.marathon2marathon.net

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Fort Stockton is the starting point for this “most challenging open road race in the world� held the last Saturday in April along Hwy 285 to Sanderson. This event draws hundreds to the area and offers excitement for all ages. Contact: (432)336-6114 www.bborr.com

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Photos: Opposite page - Gardens at the new Fort Stockton Visitor Center, Historic Fort Stockton, Annie Riggs Memorial Museum. This page - Paisano Pete. All photos courtesy of the Fort Stockton CVB.

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did you know?

22-28 million gallons of water flow through the San Solomon Spring-fed Balmorhea pool every day.

Balmorhea City Hall & Tourist Information Center 101 North Main www.cityofbalhormea.com (432) 375-2307

The pool maintains a constant 72-76Âş F temperature making it an ideal spot for swimming or scuba diving excursions year round. Canals channel the water along Highway 17 into Balmorhea (pronounced BAL-moray), where a charming city park flanks the watercourse. Once a stagecoach stop between Fort Stockton and Fort Davis, the Toyahvale Post Office was established in 1891. The drive from Fort Davis on Hwy 17, through the scenic Davis Mountains and Wild Rose Pass, is one of the prettiest in the region.

BALMORHEA STATE PARK In addition to the spring-fed pool, the State Park features the Cienega Wetlands Restoration, a refuge for indigenous aquatic and amphibian life. Visitors can stay in San Solomon Springs Courts or at the campground.

BALMORHEA LAKE Only 2 miles south of Balmorhea, on County Road 319 (Houston Street), this 600-acre lake–stocked seasonally with a variety of fish–is a popular destination for birders. A $3.00 visitor fee is payable at the lake store. RV spaces and picnic areas are available. Swimming is not allowed.

CALERA CHAPEL Mission Mary at Calera, Texas is located west of Toyahvale on Hwy 290. The church, which served the area from around 1902 into the 1940s, was restored in 2002.

TOYAHVALE DESERT OASIS The only outfitter by the park! Visit this full-service dive shop for swim gear and to schedule SCUBA diving lessons in the crystal clear waters of San Solomon Springs. SCUBA and snorkeling gear rentals. Plus, all the supplies you’ll need to make your Balmorhea State Park visit fun, safe and memorable. Photos: The crystal waters at Balmorhea State Park/San Solomon Spring Pool, the canals of downtown Balmorhea, Balmorhea’s wild turkeys. Photos by David Leggett - www.davidleggett.com.

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www.nps.gov/bibe

Encompassing more than 800,000 acres of mountain cliffs, desert expanses and towering river canyons, Big Bend National Park is the king of Texas’ national public areas. Many features set apart Big Bend from its national park brethren, including the fact that it is the only one to contain an entire mountain range - the Chisos - within its borders. Dedicated in 1944, the park is nestled in the bend of the Rio Grande River along the Texas and Mexico border where outstanding examples of Chihuahan Desert topography and ecology beckon nature enthusiasts from around the world. A land of contrasts, Big Bend contains geological marvels, historic and prehistoric treasures and an amazing diversity of plant and animal life across its dramatic range of elevations. From its lowest point of 1,850 feet in Rio Grande Village to Emory Peak at 7,825 feet, the park presents impressive changes in climate, with temperatures in the desert routinely 10 to 20 degrees warmer than in the mountains. Desert opportunities abound. Numerous trails from short and very well developed to long and rugged and remote with exceptional views. Back-country roads are available with private back-country camping sites available for both drive in and backpacking options with a permit. Historic sites and ruins andnumerous. opportunities for solitude are many

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Choose Your Own Adventure

The Chisos Mountains are high elevation hiking, with trails for all skill levels. The famed South Rim has both a dramatic dropoff and an unobstructed view to horizon line on a clear day. Boot Canyon contains the largest trees in the park and some of the largest of their species in the country. Emory Peak Trail has just undergone a complete reroute and has dramatic new views of both the south and north side of the mountain. Birding is excellent in the mountains especially in the spring and fall. Spring sees the arrival of the Colima Warbler a bird found only in the Chisos Moutains in the United States. Campers in the Chisos Basin will enjoy development boosts, including a newly rehabbed campground with much improved facilities and new, night sky friendly lighting. Also, a newly rehabbed porch at the lodge serving outdoor meals is ready to serve both day visitors and campers alike. With over 150 miles of back-country dirt roads and 200 miles of trails, walking, hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding are all popular options for exploring the park. Some of the more popular hikes include the Window View Trail in the Chisos Basin, which is wheelchair accessible and perfect for a mountain sunset; Rio Grande Village Nature Trail offers some of the best birding *QO *MVL <M`I[ 5W]V\IQV[ <ZI^MT /]QLM

Plan Your Trip

in the region; The Chihuahan Desert Nature Trail at Dugout Wells features native plant life identified along this half mile path. The 118 miles of the Rio Grande that border the park wind through the Santa Elena, Boquillas, and Mariscal canyons. A river trip by raft or kayak is an unforgettable way to encounter the remote wilderness of Big Bend. Leisurely half-day floats to multi-day camping trips are available. Santa Elena is the most popular outfitter trip with dramatic 1,500-foot canyon walls. Boquillas is a 2-night/3-day trip on average but great for families with its class 2 or less rapids at average water levels and many side hiking opportunities. There are three developed campgrounds in the park: Chisos Basin Campground, Rio Grande Village Campground, and Cottonwood Campground all with water, restrooms, and some with primitive shelters. There is also an RV Park at Rio Grande Village, the only location in the park with full hookups. Public showers and laundry facilities are available at the Rio Grande Village Store. Most of the campsites operate on a first come/first serve basis and fill up quickly in March, April and during the holiday season.

A limited number of sites in Rio Grande Village and Chisos Basin allow advance reservations from Nov. 15 - Apr. 15. Call 877-444-6777 or reserve on-line at www.reserveusa.com. Visit www.nps.gov/bibe or call 432.477.2251 for more information. For a full list of Big Bend area activities, go to www.visitbigbend.com, the most complete reference source for all things Greater Big Bend and Brewster County. The mobile tag at the bottom of this page will also take you there. For more information on Big Bend National Park and the surrounding area, go to VisitBigBend.com or follow the mobile tag to the right.

Events

NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY - WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER 28, 2012 National Public Lands Day is a nationwide celebration of our country’s public lands. Held the last weekend of September every year, the event brings thousands of people to parks across the country. Friends of Big Bend National Park will be hosting a special weekend of volunteerism and fun on September 25th. There will be volunteer opportunities, special ranger talks and social events to mark this special occasion. Check the website for details. www.bigbendfriends.org

ENTRANCE FEES Vehicle: $20 for a 7-day pass good at any park entrance Individual: $10 for a 7-day pass. 15 years and younger are free of charge. Annual Pass: $40—Allows unlimited entry to for one year from month of purchase.

CAMPGROUND FEES

fun fact

In 1964, Apollo astronauts came to Big Bend to study volcanic geology so that they could identify the geologic structures and processes that they might see on the moon.

The nightly fee for camping in one of the developed front-country campgrounds is $14. Individual backcountry campsites require a $10 permit, which can only be acquired at one of the park’s visitor centers in person. Special rates apply to clommercial and non-commercial groups, as wel as interagency officials, seniors and the permanently disabled. Inquire at the ranger station or call (432) 477-2251.

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BIG BEND ULTRA - JANUARY 20, 2013 Race along 50K, 25K and 10K courses at elevations of 3400 to 1900 ft. On-course food & refreshments provided. Enjoy the scenery, excellent footing and fast gentle drop in elevation, along with a post race cookout and traditional trip to the Hot Springs. www.bigbend50.com

Photos: Opposite page - Big Bend Stars by Tyler Nordgren (ww. tylernordgren.com). This page - Hikers heading to the Rio Grande photo courtesy of Beth Nobles and the Texas Mountain Trail. Rio Grande rafting - courtesy of Randy Mallory of the Texas Historic Commission.

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Tucked between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas has played host to a cast of infamous characters throughout history. Fossil bones of giant marine reptiles and large dinosaurs over 65 million years old have been discovered in the vicinity. The historic river crossing, also known as Paso Lajitas or San Carlos Ford, has been used for centuries. The Spanish explorer Antonio de Espejo crossed here in 1588. Lajitas Trading post was built in 1899 to facilitate workers, goods and material coming from Mexico to the booming cinnabar mines in the area. By early 20th century, Lajitas enjoyed a public school and a US post office. A military outpost was established here to protect the strategic mining industry during the period of unrest caused by the Mexican Revolution of 1910-1920, when the name of Pancho Villa was either worshipped or feared on both sides of the Rio Grande. In late 1916 -early 1917, General John J. “Black Jack� Pershing made an inspection owf the area along with his aide, lieutenant George Patton. There are cowboy stories along with miner’s tales of drink and peril in every crevice of the red rock buttes that encircle the area. Under new ownership since 2007, the resort town, spa, equestrian center, RV Park and new golf course insure that Lajitas flourishes with a variety of new shops, restaurants and activities. More information at www.lajitasgolfresort.com.

Attractions BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF COURSE

LAJITAS BOARDWALK

This semi-private, Lanny Wadkins designed 18-hole championship golf course captures the beauty and drama of the desert. The course winds through the mountains offering challenging golf for all skill levels.

The Lajitas Boardwalk offers a collection of interesting shops and venues to explore including Red Rock Outfitters and Christina’s World for local and regional gifts, Lajitas Art Gallery exhibiting work by local artists, the Flat Rock Theater providing a cool afternoon escapes and Lysha’s Bakery for fresh baked pastries.

EQUESTRIAN CENTER The equestrian center offers lessons for the novice to the expert rider. With over one million open acres to explore, Lajitas offers a variety of trail ride options.

HUNTING AND SHOOTING Horseback Aoudad hunts, Five-Stand sporting clay shoots and Cowboy Action shoots are available.

THE HUNT CLUB Located 40 miles from the resort, The Hunt Club is housed on 650 acres along the Rio Grande. Full-day and Multi-day hunts are available for white-wing dove in the Fall.

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AGAVE SPA Aromatic and healing elements of the Chihuahuan Desert are the foundation for the spa treatments—from specialty massage and skin treatments to hydrating facials. Photos: Equestrian center, Black Jack’s Crossing Golf Course, Fine dining in the Candelilla Restaurant, Skeet shooting at the gun range. All photos courtesy of Lajitas Golf Resort & Spa.

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TERLINGUA EVENTS “DIA DE LOS MUERTOS� The discovery of cinnabar, from which the metal mercury is extracted, in the mid-1880s brought miners to the area. The only remnants of the mining days are a ghost town of the Howard Perry-owned Chisos Mining Company and several nearby capped and abandoned mines, most notably the California Hill, the Rainbow, the 248 and the Study Butte mines. The mineral terlinguaite was first found in the vicinity of California Hill. The cinnabar was apparently known to Native Americans, who prized its brilliant red color for body pigment. Various Mexican and American prospectors reportedly found cinnabar at Terlingua in the 1880s, but the remoteness and hostile Indians deterred mining. The population of Terlingua in 2000 was 267. Due to its proximity to Big Bend National Park, the Terlingua/Study Butte is mostly a tourist destination. Rafting on the Rio Grande, mountain biking, camping, hiking, and motorcycling are some of the outdoor activities favored by tourists. No

Attractions

Dia De Los Muertos is Spanish for “Day of the Dead�. Every year on November 2nd the people of south Brewster County hold a traditional celebration in the Ghost Town Cemetery.

trip is complete without a trip into what they call the “ghost town� of Terlingua. From the famous trading post front porch, you can get a good view of the Chisos Mountain formation within Big Bend called “Mule Ears.� It’ll be easy to see why, once you’ve spotted it. After that, dinner (and possibly a show) at the Starlight Theater is must. On the first Saturday of November, over 10,000 “chiliheads� convene in Terlingua for two annual chili cookoffs: the Chili Appreciation Society International and the Frank X. Tolbert/Wick Fowler World Chili Championships. These events have come to personify Terlingua and spread the reputation of this small village worldwide. Study Butte (pronounced “stoody byoot�), may be lesser known, but it is the economic hub of the area. Many stores and amenities cater to tourists and locals alike. If you’re tired from hiking and camping, you may even opt for a an airconditioned room at Big Bend Resort.

THE TERLINGUA CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP Chili Appreciation Society International’s annual event is held at Rancho CASI de los Chisos on the north side of Highway 170, eleven miles west of Study Butte. CASI hosts the 45th Annual Championship on the first weekend of November. The festivities include a BBQ, Salsa, Beans, and Wings contests. There is live music entertainment on both Friday and Saturday nights. www.chili.org

Photos: The inimitable Terlingua landscape - photo by Voni Glaves. Performer Nathan Machautta at the Starlight Theatre in the Terlingua Ghost Town - photo by Jason Barrett.

BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER

CONTRABANDO

On Highway 170, five miles west of 118, Terlingua Ghost Town holds the largest concentration of mining architecture in the area, restored as shops, restaurants and homes. Favorite stops include the Starlight Theatre and the front porch of the Trading Post. www.ghosttowntexas.com

Featuring bilingual exhibits on the geology and natural history of the area, including a 2.5 acre desert garden and a collections room with historical and archeological artifacts geological specimens and Dr. Warnock’s herbarium of Big Bend Ranch. On site there is a gift shop that sells books, guides, maps and provides information on the Big Bend Region. www.tpwd.state.tx.us/

ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC LOOP

CAMINO DEL RIO - THE RIVER ROAD

TEN BITS RANCH

A stunning driving tour of the western side of Big Bend, the loop passes many favorite trail heads and ends at the majestic Santa Elena Canyon. The improved dirt Maverick Road leads back to the park entrance at Maverick Junction.

Hwy 170 along the Rio Grande is a favorite among travelers with several camping areas, river access points and trailheads along the way. At places the road becomes narrow, winding and very steep, making it difficult for some RVs, buses and trailer rigs.

RIDE THE RIO GRANDE

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

Terlingua/Study Butte is the jumping off point for your river adventure. The area boasts a number of experienced outfitters that will make your trip, whether it be by raft, canoe or kayak, fun and safe.

If you’ve made it this far, Big Bend National Park is probably on your itinerary. Terlingua & Study Butte is a great area from which to base your national park adventure.

Themed around an old west town of “Chimney Rock�, Ten Bits Ranch provides accommodations for up to ten guests. Each room is designed to be a part of our old west town so your vacation may include a stay in the “bank�, “gunsmith�, “school house� or “general store.� The facilities are “green,� offering an opportunity for education on conservation practices in the desert, as well as stunning vistas, wildlife and flora. The Ranch has an on-site outfitter service - Big Bend Expeditions - that will also pick up in town. www.tenbitsranch.com

HISTORIC TERLINGUA AND THE TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN

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Contrabando is a ghost town within Big Bend Ranch State Park, 5 miles west of Lajitas on Hwy 170. Since 1985, the site has been used as a set for 9 movies including “Lone Star�, as well as “Dead Man’s Walk� and Streets of Laredo�, which were part of the Lonesome Dove miniseries based on the novel by Larry McMurtry.

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Lodging BIG BEND RESORT & ADVENTURES - STUDY BUTTE Three miles from western entrance to Big Bend National Park. (432) 477-2291 www.bigbendresort.com Lodging, food and convenience store.

Food & Drink

BIG BEND EXPEDITIONS NORTH OF STUDY BUTTE

CANDELILLA CAFE & THIRSTY GOAT SALOON - LAJITAS

6000 North County Rd (432) 371-2265 and (888) 408-2945

Located in the Lajitas Golf Resort off Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000 www.lajitasgolfresort.com Elegant casual dining featuring locally-inspired fare. Indoor and outdoor seating. Serving a full menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

www.bigbendexpeditions.com Guided 4X4 tours inside and outside Big Bend National Park. Local guides that know the area flora, fauna, archeology, geology and history. Will pick you up at any Terlingua/Study Butte lodging facility.

Shopping & Services

BIRDING BIG BEND WITH MARK FLIPPO - BIG BEND AREA

Located in the Lajitas Golf Resort off Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000 www.lajitasgolfresort.com Only full-service resort near Big Bend Ranch State Park and National Park.

AGAVE SPA AT LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA - LAJITAS

LAJITAS HOUSE - LAJITAS

GIFT SHOPS AT LAJITAS GOLF RESORT - LAJITAS

www.birdingbigbend.net Join Mark Flippo, retired National Park Service Ranger on birding tours in Big Bend National Park. Over the last 30 years with the National Park Service, Mark has provided interpretation and educational programs with an emphasis on birds. Mark has been Big Bend National Parks lead bird expert for the last 17 years.

Lajitas House is located on the west side of Lajitas in the Riverview subdivision. Drive west past Lajitas on FM 170, down the big dip, up and first right, then at the top of the hill, turn left. (979) 966-0071 www.vrbo.com/43865 www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/ p236860 2 Bedrooms, 2 Bathrooms, Sleeps 6. Beautiful private home overlooking a spectacular view of the Rio Grande and the Sierra del Carmen mountains. Nicely furnished, comfortable beds and fully equipped kitchen. Located on a bluff at the edge of Lajitas on Hwy 170 towards Presidio. Adjacent to Big Bend Ranch State Park and accessible to BBNP with restaurants and stores nearby. See web sites for pictures.

Located in the Lajitas Golf Resort off Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000 www.lajitasgolfresort.com Located in an Old West promenade, an eclectic mix of shops await the traveler to the last frontier.

CHISOS MINING CO. MOTEL - TERLINGUA Need content

LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA - LAJITAS

TEN BITS RANCH B&B - NORTH OF STUDY BUTTE 6000 North County Rd (432) 371-3110 and (866) 371-3110 www.tenbitsranch.com A unique, secluded guest ranch offering full breakfast daily with 360 degree views. Guest rooms are themed around our Old West town of “Chimney Rock�. All rooms feature a fireplace, private deck, private bath and authentic decor.

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Located in the Lajitas Golf Resort off Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000 www.lajitasgolfresort.com Massages, facials and body treatments.

RV & Camping

(432) 371-2348

BIG BEND OVERLAND TOURS - STUDY BUTTE OFFICE At the junction of Hwys 118 and 170, 3 miles from Big Bend National Park www.bigbendresort.com (432) 371-2218 or (800) 848-2363 Guided hiking, vehicle shuttle service, step on guide and guided vehicle tours.

B.J.’S RV PARK - TERLINGUA

LAJITAS STABLES & BIG BEND STABLES STUDY BUTTE OFFICE

Hwy 170 W., 1 mi east of Terlingua Ghost town. 7 mi from Big Bend NP. (432) 371-2259 www.bjrvpark.com Close to restaurants/music. Privately owned. Wifi. Full Hookups. 50 amps. All with a view of the Chisos.

Office: On Hwy 118 just south of the Hwy 170 intersection and past Big Bend Motor Lodge. On your left it you’re heading into the Park. (888) 508-7667 www.lajitasstables.com 2-5 mult-day adventures. Horseback vacation packages and combo trips.

LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA - MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK - LAJITAS

TREKS WEST TOURS - BIG BEND AREA

Located in the Lajitas Golf Resort off Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000 www.lajitasgolfresort.com 101 sites - including 60 full-serive pull-throughs and 18 primitive wilderness sampsites for those interested in having a true rustic tent camping experience.

Outfitters & Tours ANGELL EXPEDITIONS - BIG BEND AREA (432) 229-3713 or (305) 336-2787

www.angellexpeditions.com Full service outfitter, serving the greater Big Bend area. River rafting, canoeing, kayaking, jeep tours, hiking, mountain biking and camping. Single and multi-day trips available, tailored to your interests and schedules.

www.TREKSWESTTOURS.com | info@trekswesttours.com (301) 884-3460 Discover the wonders of the west! Offering guided 6-night tour packages. Featuring: hiking, river rafting and horseback riding. With such tour destinations as: Big Bend, Guadalupe Mountains, Arches, Canyonlands, Mesa Verde, Monument Valley and many other parks. Custom tours available.

LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA EQUESTRIAN CENTER, GOLF COURSE, HUNT CLUB AND OUTFITTERS LAJITAS Located in the Lajitas Golf Resort off Hwy 170 (432) 424-5000 www.lajitasgolfresort.com The full service resort in Lajitas is also home to a beautiful 18-hole golf course, a world-class equestrian center and an outfitter service for all your hiking, mountain biking, rafting, kayaking and outdoor activity needs. *QO *MVL <M`I[ 5W]V\IQV[ <ZI^MT /]QLM

NOW IS THE TIME!

BIG BEND has lots of elbow room

for exploration and relaxation, where adventure can be tough, soft, or in between. Where you come for the great scenery, but what you will will remember most is the warm West Texas hospitality. From the Marathon Plateau to the Chisos Mountains, and south to the Rio Grande, Big Bend visitors find scenic beauty and peaceful solitude at every turn. Named for the great curve in the Rio

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VISITBIGBEND.COM Grande, Big Bend offers more than a million acres of public parkland, and millions more of endless landsccapes where cloud-tipped mountains rides above paint-rock desert. Big Bend is an enchanted land of enormous vistas, geological odditites, shadowy canyons, abundant wildlife and western hospitality. Where rainbows wait for rain and the river lives in a big stone box. JQOJMVL\ZI^MTO]QLM KWU 41 BREWSTER COUNTY TOURISM COUNCIL

ALPINE CHAMBER VISITOR CENTER 106 N. 3rd Street WWW.ALPINETEXAS.COM (800) 561-3712

fun fact

You may know that Alpine was calle d Murphyville before the name chan ged officially in 1888. But did you know that prior to that the town was briefly called Osborne?

The area that would one day be Alpine had been a campsite for cattlemen until a town of tents was created, consisting of railroad workers and their families. They called their tiny settlement Murphyville and it remained as such for five years when a petition by town people rendered a name change. At the time Murphyville became Alpine, there were already a dozen houses, three saloons, a hotel, rooming house, a livery stable, a butcher shop, and a drugstore, which also housed the post office. Alpine grew very slowly until Sul Ross State Normal College (now Sul Ross State University), was opened in 1921. The opening of Big Bend National Park in the 1940s further spurred the growth of the town. Nowadays, the high desert country, mountain ranges and access to the Rio Grande are only a few of the natural

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wonders that make Alpine a popular destination. Situated at the edge of the great Chihuahuan Desert between Big Bend National Park and the Davis Mountains, Alpine, with its tree-lined streets and university, is at the center of the greater Big Bend region. As such, it serves as the transportation hub for Far West Texas. In addition to the general aviation airport Alpine - Casparis Municipal Airport, there is an Amtrak station and access to the area via Greyhound bus lines, delivering visitors to all Alpine has to offer. The Museum of the Big Bend at Sul Ross is a favorite stop. For more than 70 years the museum has collected and exhibited artifacts of the region, showcasing 11,000 years of human history and culture. Kids will enjoy seeing the large pterosaur

reproduction and meeting “Big Ben�, a taxidermied, native black bear. The museum came to have him after he was struck by a car just a couple years ago. He now serves as an important

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teaching tool to the kids of the greater Big Bend area. No matter what brings you here, Alpine is a great staging place for any Far West Texas adventure. There is ample lodging and dining opportunities. See cowboys competing at rodeo events, watch professional baseball in an historic ballpark and see summer theater productions under a roof of stars. The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering, Big Bend Balloon Bash, Artwalk and Big Bend Ranch Rodeo are ;]UUMZ ;XZQVO

just four of the most popular annual events. But, perhaps, what will keep you coming back is the nearly idyllic climate. At 4,600 feet and perfectly situated between the Davis, Glass and Del Norte Mountains, you’ll be hardpressed to find more moderate, yearround temperatures in all of Texas. Photos: Opposite page - Green pastures along Hwy 118 north of Alpine. “Big Ben� a black bear on display at the Museum of the Big Bend - photo courtesy of the Museum of the Big Bend. Artwalk scene. All photos courtesy of Beth Nobles and the Texas Mountain Trail, unless otherwise specified.

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Attractions HISTORIC WALKING AND WINDSHIELD TOUR

Take a leisurely stroll or drive around Alpine’s downtown for a glimpse at architectural history. A copy of the walking tour guide and map is available at the Alpine Visitors Center located at 106 North Third Street. www.alpinetexas.com

SUL ROSS STATE UNIVERSITY Established in 1920, the university’s picturesque campus overlooks Alpine and the surrounding valley. With years of history and its uniquely beautiful setting, the campus of Sul Ross is a delightful place to wander around. Many of the buildings are now designated as historic. www.sulross.edu

MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND Located on the Sul Ross campus, the museum’s permanent exhibits explore the natural and human history of the region, honoring the contributions of Native Americans, as well as Spanish, Mexican and Anglo-American settlers. Every February through April, the museum plays host to the Trappings of Texas exhibition. (See the website for exact dates.) Tuesday-Saturday, 9-5, Sunday, 1-5. www.sulross.edu/museum

KOKERNOT FIELD For baseball enthusiasts, Kokernot Field will take your breath away. Styled after the famous Wrigley Field, this baseball diamond was built for the Alpine Cowboys, a semi-pro team of the mid-20th century. The landmark stadium is now home to a recent professional incarnation of the team, also called the Alpine Cowboys.

ALPINE’S MURALS The breezeway alongside the Reata Restaurant depicts scenes from the movie “GIANT� - the restaurant’s name pays homage to the famous film. Two blocks south, at Kiowa Gallery, see a mural by the famous Stylle Read, displaying images of West Texas and Alpine. Around the corner, the local movie theater is decorated with images of famous movie characters.

COUNTY COURTHOUSE HALL OF HISTORY Take a walk through the great hall in the Brewster County Courthouse and step back through the years. On display are photographs from early Alpine and the surrounding area.

HISTORIC MURPHY STREET Murphy Street, one block south of the railroad tracks, has gone through a revitalization. Visit the shops and restaurants and explore the deep history of Alpine.

ALPINE COUNTRY CLUB GOLF COURSE Next to Kokernot Park, this 9-hole course is popular with visitors and residents alike. Cart rental and concessions are available.

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Attractions (cont’d) PERFORMING ARTS AND LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Alpine offers a variety of stage performances and live entertainment throughout the year. The Theatre of the Big Bend features outdoor summer productions under the stars and against the backdrop of West Texas at Kokernot Park. And around town each week, live music events from open-mic nights to touring shows keep the nights lively. www.sulross.edu/tobb

Events

TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS The oldest exhibit and sale of its kind in the country, Trappings of Texas showcases the best of Western art and custom cowboy gear. Held every February at the Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross State University, visitors and interested buyers can meet and visit with the artists and gearmakers who have works for sale at the Museum and at the Public Auction fundraiser. www.sulross.edu/museum

ARTWALK Alpine’s biggest annual gathering spans two-days in November to showcase a variety of art exhibitions in many local businesses, all against a backdrop of festivities and live outdoor music through the evenings. (432) 837-3067 www.artwalkalpine.com

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Historic Elegance

in the heart of downtown Alpine (432) 837-2800 www.thehollandhoteltexas.com

ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL With roots going back to the 1940s, the Alpine Cowboys are the community’s professional baseball team in the Pecos League. Home games held at Kokernot Field throughout the spring and summer are a refreshing event, especially set against the backdrop of Alpine’s surrounding mountains.

BIG BEND RANCH RODEO The rugged, gritty workings of ranch-life take center stage at this rodeo. Ranchers from all over the state come to test their mettle in events evoking real cowboy skills, from rounding up livestock to a fierce chuck wagon cookoff. (432) 364-2696 www.bigbendranchrodeo.com

CINCO DE MAYO A three-day weekend filled with food, crafts, dancing, a parade, a car show, music, entertainment, enchilada supper, folkloric dancers and a Gran Mercado.

BIG BEND BALLOON BASH Each morning of Labor Day weekend, hot air balloons paint the skies over Alpine. Visitors to the launch site enjoy balloon, helicopter and powered parachute rides. www.bigbendballoonbash.com

FIESTA DEL SOL June 17-18, 2011 As the desert sun warms up in the summer, Alpine breaks out the festivities to celebrate the solstice. Merchants and food vendors present their offerings while live music, dance performances (and this year, a Best West Texas Tacos Competition!) entertain across two full days in June. www.fiestadelsolalpine.org

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A L P I N E, T E X A S

A Roadhouse for Wanderers (432) 837-0628 *QO *MVL <M`I[ 5W]V\IQV[ <ZI^MT /]QLM www.themaverickinn.com

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2310 W. Hwy 90 (800) 880-8106 or (432) 837-2451

www.alpineautorental.com

www.antelopelodge.com | antelope.lodge@juno.com

Rental cars, vans, U-Haul.

Restored 1940s motor court. White stucco cottages with kitchenettes built around a grassy central courtyard. Family friendly!

www.sulross.edu/~museum

HOLLAND HOTEL

Food & Drink

209 West Holland Avenue (800) 535-8040 | (432) 837-2800

www.thehollandhoteltexas.com Newly renovated historic downtown hotel. Trost & Trost architecture.

THE MAVERICK INN 1200 East Holland Avenue (432) 837-0628

Art, Galleries & Museums MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND Hwy 90 East, on Sul Ross State University Campus (432) 837-8143 Newly renovated, historical & cultural exhibits.

PLAINE 106 N 5th st (432) 837-5157 Coffee, espresso, tea, juice, smoothies, “Nice Bread� & treats.

REATA RESTAURANT

(432) 837-8011

www.themaverickinn.com

203 N. 5th Street (432) 837-9232

www.sulross.edu

A roadhouse for wanderers.

www.reata.net

Sul Ross is a member of the Texas State University Network. With an average undergraduate class size of just 20 students, it’s the perfect setting for pursuing an associate, bachelor’s or master’s degree in Liberal Arts, Science, Fine Arts or any number of Professional Studies programs, such as Business Administration or Criminal Law.

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SUL ROSS STATE UNIVERSITY

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2501 East Highway 90 (432) 837-3463

Gated Ranch Community. Own your own land! Now offering large tracts from 10 to 150 acres in a recognized international dark sky community.

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The world-famous Reata Restaurant has been serving Legendary Texas Cuisine since 1995 in Alpine. From Chicken Fried Steak to Calf Fries, Pepper Crusted Tenderloin or a Cowboy Rib Eye. Reata is a true West Texas dining experience not to miss.

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www.sierralarana.com

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Lodging

2 miles south of Alpine off Hwy 118 (866) 757-2382

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High in the Davis Mountains and surrounded by unspoiled vistas of the Chihuahuan Desert, the charming little town of Fort Davis feels far removed from the rest of the world. The town stretches just one mile with most of the family-owned businesses centered around the county courthouse and along the main street (Highway 118). It has the feel of a western frontier town offering a retreat to a simpler past and a chance to soak in the natural surrounding beauty, abundant wildlife and rich history of the area. Fort Davis takes its name from the military post established there in 1854 along the San Antonio-El Paso Road. The fort was manned by companies of the Eighth U.S. Infantry to protect emigrants, freighters and mail coaches from raids by Apache and Comanche Indians in the area. Starting in 1867, the fort was home to four companies of the Ninth U.S. Calvary — African-American soldiers that became known as “Buffalo Soldiers�. Fort Davis soon became a major military installment and the town grew right alongside it boasting a dairy, lumber yard, bakery, furniture store, several hotels, a mercantile and saloons. Even after the fort closed, the

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community of Fort Davis grew as a ranching center and by the early 1900s attracted wealthy vacationers from the Gulf Coast seeking the mild climate of the high desert during the summer months. The intriguing history of the area drew more tourists with the designation of the fort as a national historic site in 1961. Many of its buildings have been restored making it one of the best surviving examples of a frontier military post in the Southwest. Stargazers, birdwatchers, cyclists and hikers have also sought out the “Highest Town in Texas� for access to the McDonald Observatory and Davis Mountain State Park/Indian Lodge

Attractions MCDONALD OBSERVATORY A world leader in astronomical research, McDonald Observatory atop Mts. Locke and Fowlkes benefits from some of the darkest night skies in the nation. The Frank N. Bash Visitor Center is the starting point for tours and hosts Star Parties on Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. Interactive educational exhibits can be found at the visitor center along with a gift shop stocked with unique and educational keepsakes. Open daily 10am to 5:30pm with self-guided tours available until 5pm. Daytime programs are at 11am and 2pm. www.mcdonaldobservatory.org

Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce #4 Memorial Square (behind the bank) www.fortdavis.com (800) 524-3015

DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK & INDIAN LODGE Located four miles north of Fort Davis, this 2700-acre park offers camping, hiking, picnicking, nature study and interpretive programs. Four miles of hiking trails connect to Fort Davis National Historic Site and there are two scenic overlooks that provide the perfect spot for star-gazing. Day and overnight equestrian use is offered. Within the park is the historic pueblostyle Indian Lodge. Built in 1933 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the inn has a swimming pool, restaurant and gift shop. The park is open year-round and full RV hook-ups are available.

FORT DAVIS NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Fort Davis was one the most important posts in frontier defense in the late 1800’s with its strategic location at the crossroads of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahuan Trail. For more information on Fort Davis National Historic Site and others in the area, see Page 42. www.nps.gov/foda/

THE OVERLAND TRAIL MUSEUM On the historic San Antonio-El Paso Road, the museum has displays and photographs depicting early life on the western frontier and features a restored pioneer kitchen and early medical equipment. Open Tuesday, Friday and Every summer, Fort Davis NHS host Saturday 1pm-5pm. a Junior Ranger Days program, spec s designed for children visiting the ially fort. The summer of 2012 program includes a historic baseball game. Learn more at the mobile tag to the left or by visiting the fort website at: www.nps.gov/foda/

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SCENIC LOOP DRIVE A 75 mile drive on the highest public highway in Texas starts in Fort Davis and winds past the Davis Mountain State Park, McDonald Observatory, Mount Livermore, Sawtooth Mountain and the Rock Pile. The route is also ideal for cycling with plenty of spots to rest and picnic including a large pine-shaded area with tables in Madera Canyon.

MOUNTAIN TRAIL LODGE & EXPEDITIONS The center hosts Elderhostel and youth groups and offers a variety of outdoor educational programs. It is the ideal setting for reunions, workshops and fellowship retreats providing comfortable lodging, meeting space, a dining area and full kitchen. Customized bicycling and birding tours can also be arranged. (800) 403 3484 www.dmectexas.org

HISTORIC HOTEL LIMPIA Originally established in 1883 across from the fort just off of the Overland Trail, the hotel moved to the current pink limestone structure in 1913 in what was to become downtown Fort Davis. The hotel is distingished with a Texas State Historical Marker and consists of three historic buildings and five guest houses totaling 41 rooms and suites. There is a dining room with the only bar in the county, two gift shops, many porches and patios for guests relaxation and a heated pool.

H. E. SPROUL RANCH

CHIHUAHUAN DESRT NATURE CENTER Home to the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute, the center features 20 acres of botanical gardens and a greenhouse with a collection of over 200 species of cacti. There are 3 miles of hiking trails and outdoor exhibits including the Chihuahuan Desert Mining Heritage exhibit. The visitor’s center is home to interpretive exhibits and a gift shop and is surrounded by a Wildscape Demonstration Garden that attracts butterflies, hummingbirds and other wildlife. Located 4 miles south of Fort Davis on Highway 118, the center is open Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm. www.cdri.org

HISTORIC JEFF DAVIS COUNTY COURTHOUSE Designed by the architectural firm of l. L. Thurman and Co. of Dallas, this building was erected in 1910-1911. 2011 marks the hundredth anniversary of this concrete and stone Classical Revival edifice, featuring a massive portico, Doric columns, alternating horizontal bands of pink rusticated stone made of locally quarried materials and a Beaux Arts style clock tower.

The oldest family owned and operated ranch in Jeff Davis Country offers lodging, meeting facilities, hunting, and jeep tours. (432) 426-2500 www.sproulranch.com Photos: Opposite page - view from atop Mount Livermore in the Davis Mountain - courtesy of Beth Nobles and the Texas Mountain Trail. This page - McDonald Observatory - courtesy of Frank Cianciolo. Sul Ross State University Drama Fraternity performers at the Hotel Limpia during the annual Midsummer Night’s Dream Garden Party - photo by Max Kandler. Chuck wagon at Fort Davis National Historic Site - photo by Jesse Drohen (austinpixels.smugmug.com)

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Fort Davis Events THE “COOLEST� FOURTH OF JULY The mountain temperatures and year round dry climate make this the “coolest� fourth of July in Texas - featuring a parade, old fashioned gun fight in the square, 5k run, apple pie and empanada contest, barbecue, vendors around the courthouse, pet contest, dance under the stars and fireworks. www.fortdavis.com

HUMMINGBIRD COUNT & BUTTERFLY COUNT Hosted by the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center and Botanical Gardens, the Hummingbird Count and Butterfly Count occur multiple times throughout the year. Other events hosted at the center include the Annual Cactus and Succulent Festival, the Native Plant Sale and the Thanksgiving Open House. See the site for more details and dates. www.cdri.org

TEXAS STAR PARTY Hosted by Texas Star Party, each year the Texas Star Party takes place at the Historic Prude Ranch and includes local tours, talks and evening programs. 2012 marks the 34th year. www.texasstarparty.org

FORT DAVIS NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE DINNER THEATRE Hosted annually be the Friends of Fort Davis every October. www.ffdnhs.org

HAMMERFEST & CYCLEFEST Hosted by the Permian Basin Bicycle Association, both events have been based in Fort Davis for some 40 years. Hammerfest is a Texas Cup One division Stage Race, typically held in April each year . Cyclefest is a fun ride for anyone, held the third weekend in September. www.pbbatx.com

FRONTIER CHRISTMAS WEEKEND Always the first full weekend of December, festivities include a Christmas tree lighting, a parade, visits with Santa and a Christmas tree hunt. www.fortdavis.com

ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR For 31 years the people St. Joseph Catholic Church have hosted this community-wide arts & crafts far. Always held the Saturday of Thanksgiving weekend.

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Photo: Indian Lodge. Photo by Trevor Reichman.

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5):)<076 Marathon is a place where time is measured in geological epochs and friendship is measured in smiles. In a 2006 study, the folks at Brewster County Tourism Council found an overwhelming number of visitors enter the Big Bend National park from Hwy 385, the beautiful winding road that snakes off IH-10 and winds down into the Chisos Mountains. There is but one outpost of civilization along that route-a bastion of art, culture and history - Marathon. When you hit town from that direction, you’ll find a visitors center filled with area literature, maps and interpretive displays. But don’t let that be your only stop, less than a mile to the west unfolds a beautiful main street village with shops, restaurants, galleries and accommodations to suit every taste and need. A town founded by railroad and ranching, it is now known for its quiet and relaxing atmosphere, friendly people, delightful climate and beautiful surroundings, as well as several unique attractions in the immediate vicinity of Marathon visitors may enjoy. Starting at the center of town, Post Road runs south for 5 miles to the Post Park. With very little traffic

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and fabulous views, this road is ideal for running, walking and biking. Wildlife such as deer, javelinas, turkey and even an occasional fox can be seen in the early mornings or late evenings. Post Park itself is a beautiful secluded pond and County Park on the Pena Colorado river shaded by Cottonwood trees and surrounded by Los Caballos Novaculite Mountains. Named after the old Cavalry Post in the mid 1800s known as Camp Pena Colorado, it is now very popular in birding circles as one of the few accessible sources of spring water in the Big Bend region. Take in the local geologic features, from the bluntness of Iron Mountain to the north, to the lightness of the Glass Mountains which is one of the few exposed uplifted coral reefs in Texas. While in Marathon, you’ll be standing on some of the oldest rocks from the Paleozoic age (250-600 million years ago). The Marathon uplift exposes the Ouachita Mountains that were heaved up during the formation of the ancient continent of Pangea. Road cuts east of town on Hwy 90 and south on Hwy 385 expose spectacular features such as strike-slip faults, unusual folding, and

Marathon Chamber of Commerce www.marathontexas.com

fossil fragments. In addition, Marathon boasts some of the darkest skies in the country. In fact, Big Bend National Park was recently awarded a Gold Tier Dark Sky Park as recognized by the International Dark-Sky Association. Should you decide to make Marathon your destination, or when you’re ready to head down the road, you’re a manageable distance from just about anywhere in the area. Alpine is a mere 30 miles. Another 26 will get you to either Marfa or Ft. Davis. But if you’re like most, you’re probably be heading south to Big Bend National Park. Good news, Marathon is closer to the park than any other town in the region, at just 48 miles. Yes, Marathon is sitting pretty as the locals haven and visitor’s uncovered jewel, just a hop skip and a jump from all that welcomes visitors to Far West Texas and its own little corner of heaven.

fun fact:

Photos: West Texas vistas just outside of Marathon . Opposite page - Triumphant M2M runners - photo courtesy of cleansphotography. com. Gage Gardens. Photos courtesy of Beth Nobles and the Texas Mountain Trail unless otherwise noted.

The Marathon Museum is located at the corner of North Third and Avenue E, (on the Square) in the historic “Club House�, originally the site of the First Schoolhouse in BuchelBrewster County.

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Attractions CAMP PENA COLORADO (POST PARK) Five miles south of town, this shady oasis known simply as “The Post,� was the original town site. Its location on the Comanche Trail necessitated the establishment of a cavalry post there. Although very little remains of the army post, it nevertheless gives the spot its current name. It is a popular location for dances, picnics, and fishing and is one of the best birding sites in the region.

MARATHON HISTORICAL MUSEUM Displays on early ranching, railroads and the mercantile history of Marathon. North 3rd Street and Avenue E.

HALLIE’S HALL OF FAME MUSEUM Located 40 miles south on Hwy 385, then 6 miles east on FM 2627, this family museum honors the memory of legendary ranch woman, teacher, and author Hallie Stillwell.

GAGE GARDENS & WALKING TOUR This shady 26-acre park often serves as a venue for weddings and other events, and its orchards supply the Gage restaurant with fresh fruits and produce. It also features a quarter-mile walking trail, water fountains and pond, and a putting green. The grounds are open to the public.

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Marathon is the northern and eastern gateway to Big Bend National Park. A 45-minute drive takes you to the park entrance, where you are greeted with breathtaking desert vistas. After another 45-minute drive inside the park you can find yourself in the cool, high Chisos Mountains Basin, where you can see across the river into Mexico.

Events MARATHON CHILI COOK-OFF July 2-3, 2011 - CASI sponsored chili cook-offs, Friday and Saturday. Dance at “the Post� Saturday night featuring Craig Carter and the Spur of the Moment band.

WEST FEST AND CABRITO COOK-OFF The last weekend of September, cooks vie for top prize with cabrito (goat) specialties. Activities include washer pitching, team roping, softball, live music, and a dance.

MARATHON 2 MARATHON 5K, 10k, half and full marathons on the new Highway 385 course. Pre-run pasta dinner at the Gage Hotel. Dinner and dance celebration at the Marathon Motel. www.marathon2marathon.net

COWBOY SOCIAL First Sunday in November starting at 3:00pm. Includes a dance, fajita dinner, cash bar, silent auction and “wheelbarrow of wine� raffle, all benefitting the Marathon Health Clinic. (432) 386-3122

FIESTA DE NOCHE BUENA A community event in the spirit of the winter holiday season. Galleries and shops open on this first Saturday in December as musicians stroll among the downtown revelers. Starts at dusk. ;]UUMZ ;XZQVO

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EVANS GALLERY

ADOBE HACIENDA

in the Gage Hotel - 101 Hwy 90 West (432) 386-4205

Four doors down from the Gage (432) 386-4366

(800) 550-0503

www.gagehotel.com

www.jameshevans.com

www.chisosgallery.com

An extraordinary dining experience in the historic Gage Hotel.

Featuring the photographs of James H. Evans - 23-year resident of Marathon, author of “Big Bend Pictures� and “Crazy From the Heat.� Home of Desert Critter Wear - clothing and linens with printed desert critters.

Renovated hacienda, featuring a kitchen, tile bath, washer/dryer, cable television, comfortable porch and pleasant yard.

CASA LA VISTA

FRENCH COMPANY GROCER

RV & Camping

(432) 386-22222

Just north of the bank (432) 386-4522

www.casalavista.com

www.frenchcogrocer.com

MARATHON MOTEL

A simple get-away, naturally.

Homemade sandwiches, salads, bread, cookies and coffee. Groceries, natural foods, beer/wine, camping supplies, ATM and internet access.

West Hwy 90 (866) 386-4241

EVE’S GARDEN ORGANIC BED & BREAKFAST 207 N. Highland (432) 386-4165

www.evesgarden.org Seven separate guest rooms with fresh flowers and private baths, guest tea room, full organic breakfast.

Shopping & Services FRENCH COMPANY GROCER Just north of the bank (432) 386-4522

www.frenchcogrocer.com

GAGE HOTEL

Homemade sandwiches, salads, bread, cookies and coffee. Groceries, natural foods, beer/wine, camping supplies, ATM and internet access.

102 W. Hwy 90 (800) 884-GAGE

SPA AT THE GAGE HOTEL

www.gagehotel.com Unique, historic, sophisticated boutique hotel.

MARATHON MOTEL West Hwy 90 (866) 386-4241

www.marathonmotel.com Established in 1940 and recently renovated with 10 newly decorated rooms divided between four duplex cabins.

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102 W. Hwy 90 (800) 884-GAGE

www.gagehotel.com Luxury spa in the historic Gage Hotel. Massages, body wraps. The ultimate in relaxaction.

www.marathonmotel.com 19 full hookups. Service includes water, 30/50 amp electricity, sewer and cable TV. Easy to navigate entrance and clean, bright restrooms, complete with showers - available to RVers at no additional charge.

did you know?

Casa La Vista guest rental is also a yoga retreat center. Starting in June 2012, massage therapist, Reiki practicioner and yoga instructor Wilm a Schindeler embarks on a series of yoga retreats at the cent er. These multi-day workshops feature yoga, meditation, guest spea kers and organic meals. Spa services are also available. Your selfdiscovery begins here - just 3 minutes from the heart of Marathon at Casa La Vista Retreat Center. Learn more by visiting them on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/ CasaLaVistaRetreatCenter

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Marfa Visitor Information Center at the USO Building 302 S. Highland Avenue/Hwy 67 www.VisitMarfa.com (432) 729-4772

5):.) The enigmatic city of Marfa sits in the high desert of Texas, surrounded by distant mountains in daylight and mysterious ghost lights at night.

A vanguard for minimalism and modern art, Marfa continues to mystify and amaze visitors. Fittingly named after a character in a novel, Marfa has a history of attracting creative spirits. Founded as a railroad water stop in the 1880’s the city limits are still bound on all sides by working cattle ranches, many still operated by their original descendants. On any given day you can find these natives in one of the many fine restaurants, galleries or cultural events Marfa offers, along with visitors from all over the world who come in for urban dislocation. On the surface, it is a typical rural town - a main street, a courthouse, churches and well-kept houses. Look deeper and you will find restaurants and art collections to rival New York or Berlin, a hotel filled with movie stars’ memories and unrivaled eclectic accommodations (like El Cosmico’s renovated vintage trailers, reinvented yurt structures, traditional 22-foot Sioux teepee, and campsites, or the uber-modern Hotel Thunderbird. Until the 1970s, Marfa was best known for the ghost lights and as the ;]UUMZ ;XZQVO

film location for James Dean’s final picture, “GIANT�, also starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and Dennis Hopper. The classically beautiful Hotel Paisano, served as the center of activity during the making of the movie. Now, the well-appointed rooms offer modern conveniences while preserving the spirit of its past. If you are unable to stay there, a visit is a must - sit in by a roaring fireplace in the lobby or enjoy the outside courtyard and fountain. In 1971, Donald Judd, the renowned minimalist artist, moved to Marfa from New York City with the intention of permanently installing his art. Since Judd’s death in 1994, two foundations have been working to maintain his legacy: the Chinati Foundation and Judd Foundation. The Chinati Foundation now occupies more than 10 buildings and has on permanent exhibit work by such artists as John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin. While in Marfa, don’t forget to find your way to the viewing station east of town where you can study the mystery of the Marfa Ghosts Lights as they dance across the foothills of the Chinati

Mountains. Seen by the earliest settlers to the area, they continue to mystify travelers and passersby, and are part of the continuing enigma and magic that is Marfa. Photos: Railroad tracks and views outside of Marfa. Dan Flavin light installation at Chinati Foundation. The Marfa Lights Viewing Center - photo by David Leggett (www.davidleggett.com). All photos courtesy of Beth Nobles and the Texas Mountain Trail unless otherwise noted.

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Marfa Activities

GLIDING

The sky above Marfa is known for excellent glider flying conditions, attracting sailplane pilots and enthusiasts since 1960. Marfa has hosted many US National Soaring Contests including the World Competition in 1970. In 2008, Marfa was designated a National Landmark of Soaring, recognizing the unique aspects that make Marfa a year-round destination in the aviation world. Glider rides and flight lessons are available by advance appointment at the Marfa Airport. Contact Burt Compton, Master Flight Instructor for more information. www.flygliders.com

Marfa

MARFA MYSTERY LIGHTS Marfa’s “Mystery Ghost Lights� were first documented by rancher Robert Ellison in 1883. There are many theories about the source of these curious lights, but no one has ever been able to fully explain the phenomenon. Swamp gas, phosphorescent mineral displays, ball lightning, UFOs and wandering spirits of Apache ancestors have all been proposed. Whatever the cause, these playful lights above Mitchell Flat are an enduring attraction. You will find a roadside park and viewing center, complete with restroom facilities, picnic tables and long-range viewing devices, along Hwy 90 just 8 miles east of town.

PRESIDIO COUNTY COURTHOUSE

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Built in 1886, the Goddess of Justice stands atop this elegant Second Empire-style domed structure that was restored in 2001. A climb to the cupola provides a 360 degree panoramic view of the Marfa Plateau, Chinati Peak and nearby Davis Mountains. Hours are 9:00am-4:00pm, Monday through Friday.

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The highest golf course in Texas, situated at 4,882 feet above sea level, this 9-hole course offers not only well-kept greens but also 360-degree views of blue mountains and open ranchland. It is a wonderfully manicured surprise in the middle of the desert mountains. (432) 729-4043.

Chinati Foundation , Judd Foundation, and Ballroom Marfa are three non-profit art spaces at the hub of Marfa culture. Occupying much of former Fort D.A. Russell, the Chinati Foundation houses a permanent collection of contemporary art, as well as temporary exhibits by artists in residence. The Judd Foundation focuses primarily on the work of Chinati founder Donald Judd; while Ballroom Marfa features revolving exhibits of international acclaim, along with numerous music events throughout the year. In addition to these three organizations, several independent galleries and studios are open across town. www.chinati.org www.juddfoundation.org www.ballroommarfa.org

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Designed by famed regional architects Trost & Trost (see the article on page 54), the Paisano opened in June 1930. The building has undergone extensive renovation and is home to a display of “GIANT� memorabilia, upscale rooms, shops and elegant dining. www.hotelpaisano.com

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MARFA AND PRESIDIO COUNTY MUSEUM Housed in an 1880s adobe known as the Humphris-Humphries House, this museum features displays of “GIANT,� the Chihuahuan Desert, local military and county history, and W 5TH a collection of panoramic photography by Frank Duncan. Hours are 2:00-5:00pm, Thursday through Sunday.

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MARFA lodging list

HOTELS

CAsitaS & Guest houses

Hotel Paisano www.hotelpaisano.com 207 N. Highland Ave., 866-729-3669

Adobe at Galveston West www.vrbo.com/270187 406 W. Galveston St., 432-384-2415

el sueno marfa www.elsuenomarfa.com 110 W. Texas, 432-333-5512

Riata Inn www.riatainmarfa.com 1500 US-90 E., 432-729-3800

Adobe Bungalow 1307 W. Paris, 512-816-5626

Marfa 608 Guest House www.marfa608.com 608 W. Third St., 713-961-5363

Thunderbird Hotel www.thunderbirdmarfa.com 601 W. San Antonio (Hwy 90), 432-729-1984

BED & BREAKFAST Arcon Inn B&B www.christophers.net/ArconH.html 215 N. Austin St., 432-729-4826

campsite El Cosmico www.elcosmico.com 902 S. Highland Ave., 432-729-1950

Casa Cielo www.vrbo.com/273903 205 W. Lincoln St., 214-450-9386 Casa Julian www.vrbo.com/378441 706 N. Highland Ave., 210-364-1361 Casa Villa Real www.casavillareal.com 700 W. Waco St., 702-346-4266 Casitas Colores www.casitacoloresmarfa.com 904 W. San Antonio (Hwy 90) 432-729-4319 Casita Marfa www.vrbo.com/125310 1301 Ordenar St., 512-422-2940

Marfa House on the Hill www.marfahillhouse.com 207 S. Aparejo, 214-826-4612 STAY Marfa/ Marfa Vacation Rentals www.marfaretreat.com 203 S. Dean St., 432-371-2861 White House on the Corner http://www.vrbo.com/265523 101 E. Dallas, 512-750-9246 White House on the Corner Apt http://www.vrbo.com/265523 101 1/2 E. Dallas, 512-750-9246 Windmill Retreat www.vrbo.com/144026 605 E. Lincoln, 212-203-1932

Discover Marfa House 205 W. Lincoln, 214-450-9366 www.VisitMarfa.com Visitor Information Center

Located in the Historic USO Bldg at 302 S. Highland Avenue/Hwy 67 S.

432-­729-­4772

Marfa’s Historic WWII USO Building is newly remodeled and ready for

seminars | small conferences | meetings retreats | workshops | weddings | events

n ou

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-C i r T

r yA

ea

Enjoy a Drive!

Sign up and drive to all the sights of West Texas! Rates as low as $5.00 p/hour.

100 East San Antonio St. Marfa, TX 79843 (SE Corner of Route 67 & Route 90)

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Marfa Events MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL This celebration, produced by the Marfa Chamber of Commerce, is held on Labor Day weekend each year. It features a parade, food and crafts booths, street dances and performances by local and nationally known musicians. www.marfacc.com

CHINATI WEEKEND

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Originally a gathering orchestrated by the Chinati and Judd Foundations, Chinati Weekend (formerly “Open House�) has grown to be a full-scale weekend of art and activity with most galleries in Marfa opening their doors to guests. The Columbus Day weekend event generally features a number of special exhibits, receptions and speaking engagements. Look for a copy of the Chinati Weekend Guide around the streets of Marfa and see the Chinati and Judd Foundations’ sites for information on their organized events. www.chinati.org and www.juddfoundation.org

EL COSMICO WEEKEND On September 23 - 25, the 6th Annual El Cosmico Weekend will import music and fun to Marfa. Throughout the year, El Cosmico offers alternative lodging options to travelers in the forms of renovated vintage trailers, yurts, a teepee and campsites. www.elcosmico.com

PADRE’S ANNIVERSARY PARTY Marfa’s favorite funeral home turned watering hole holds its annual Memorial Day Weekend celebration. Live music, good food and great people. www.padresmarfa.com

BALLROOM WEEKEND Ballroom has special fundraiser weekends each year in May and in September that feature large-scale exhibitions, speaking engagements, theater performances and, often, live music. In addition to those, Ballroom hosts a number of musical acts throughout the year. For more information, check the Ballroom Marfa events schedule on their website at www.ballroommarfa.org.

did you know?

Magazine has For 6 years, Marfa lture in Marfa cu d an e lif d chronicle on. The pages gi re ng di un and the surro biographies of native are filled with those who found this West Texans andrld d made it their part of the wo receanntly. Look for re home mo while your souvenir coe py you’re in th area! Photos: Ballroom Marfa’s Summer DJ Camp - photo courtesy of Ballroom Marfa. 2012 Marfa Magazine cover - photo courtesy of Johnny Calderone and Marfa Magazine.

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By Nancy Hollen Black Presidio City Hall 507 West O’Reilly Street www.cityofpresidio.com (432) 229-3517

Whichever way you choose to come to this city on the Rio Grande, you will be following in the footsteps of prehistoric Americans, Spanish explorers, Mescalero Apache and famous outlaws. The only major border crossing between El Paso and Del Rio, Presidio is located at the intersection of Hwy 67 (60 miles south of Marfa) and FM 170. Across the International Bridge is the sister city of Ojinaga, Mexico, a community isolated from the rest of Mexico by the extremely rough terrain of the Sierra Madre Mountains that frame the backdrop of Presidio to the south. The area around present-day Presidio is thought to be the oldest continuously cultivated area in the United States. The nearby confluence of the Rio Conchos, flowing out of Mexico, and Rio Grande rivers, resulted in plentiful water, creating a flood plain that is ideal for farming. Evidence shows the land has been farmed since 1500 B.C. and that by 1400 A.D. area Native Americans lived in small, close-together settlements. Traveling to Presidio along Hwy 67 will take you through the foothills of the Chinati Mountains. The third highest mountain in Texas at 7,728 feet, Chinati Mountain rises to the west, joined by a host of lesser mountain peaks and rugged canyons - the

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caldera remnants of a once great and mighty volcano. The range derives its name from the Apache word ch’ínå’itíh, which means gate or mountain pass. On the southeastern side of the caldera, you will pass through Shafter, where sliver has been mined on and off since the 1882, before descending into the river valley below. An alternate route to Presidio is along what is known as the famed River Road, Farm to Market 170, traveling from the Big Bend National Park. Regularly voted the most scenic drive in Texas, the River Road wanders along the edge of the Rio Grande dramatically lifting you to new heights with soaring climbs over mountainous terrain only to descend once again to the waters edge. Much of the drive you will be skirting the border of the rugged, primitive Big Bend State Park. The small town of Redford, a farming community 16 miles southeast of Presidio, is the location of one of a series of Franciscan missions established in the late 1600’s along this stretch of the Rio Grande. Further down the road you will cross Alamito creek, before arriving at Fort Leaton State Historic Site. In 1848, Ben Leaton built a fortified adobe trading post that dominated border trade with the Apache and Comanche before he died in 1851. The renovated fort offers

historic ruins, restored rooms, interpretive exhibits with an audio-visual program, restrooms, shaded picnic facilities, a halfmile interpretive trail and a Texas State Park Store. Fort Leaton also serves as the western entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park - the largest state park in Texas. In the end of your journey, you’ll find Presidio a quaint town with lodging, food and shopping, easy access to the mercados on the other side of the border and a great jumping off spot for many of the regions spectacular attractions. Presidio offers unique flavor and experience to traveler’s seeking the less ordinary.

? did yoduneknw ow Presidio

The bran ted to Aquatic Center is sla st gu Au in e let be comp of 2012! *QO *MVL <M`I[ 5W]V\IQV[ <ZI^MT /]QLM

Photos: Opposite page - the River Road. This page - Camping at Chinati Hot Springs. A blooming cactus photo by Brad Newton. Dancers at the annual Cinco de Mayo festivities - photo by Brad Newton. All photos courtesy of Beth Nobles and the Texas Mountain Trail unless otherwise noted.

A bi-national celebration between the communities of Ojinaga and Presidio, this event includes a citywide parade through the middle of town. Held the Saturday before Fat Tuesday.

The annual celebration of Mexico’s unlikely defeat of French forces at the Battle of Puebla translates to revelry in Presidio. Every May 5th, parades, dance performances, picnics and more can be expected.

Saturady, June 30, 2012 - The Fourth of July Celebration in Presidio is held at Daly Park starting at 4:00 pm and lasting late into the night. A Fajita and salsa contest, vendor booths and activities are planned. Acuario 90 will be preforming for a free dance starting at dark and, of course, a fireworks display. ;]UUMZ ;XZQVO

October 19th and 20th, 2012 - Called “Mexico’s Roswell�, the Coyome Crash of 1974 happened close to Presido, TX, and Ojinaga, Mexico. This Major UFO event is documented in the book “Mexico’s Roswell� by Noe Torres and Ruben Uriate and was featured on the History Channel’s, UFO Hunters Series. Information can be found on the Internet about this significant UFO crash and recovery by Mexican and US Armed Forces of the downed flying saucer. Links to the Internet sites on Mexico’s Roswell the can be found by visiting www.cityofpresidio.com on the Presidio Tourism page. There will be activities on both sides of the border so remember to bring your passport. Activities planned include the 5th Annual DUDE OF THE DEAD Music Festival at The Presidio Drag Race Track. Camping is available at the Concert or in various locations. Fort Leaton will Host The UFO Researchers Lecture Series. Presidio ISD’s Project T-STEM Nationally Famous Rocket Team will there, too. And if you can’t make it to this event, take heart. You never know what you will see in the dark skies of presidio year-round.

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Lodging/RV/ Camping ANGELL EXPEDITIONS CAMPSITES & CABIN 15.5 miles NW of town on FM 170 (432) 229-3713 www.angellexpeditions.com Primitive campsites and cabins in a remote setting.

CHINATI HOT SPRINGS 36 miles NW of town on FM 170 (432) 229-4165 www.chinatihotsprings.net Hidden oasis, rental cabins.

CIBOLO CREEK RANCH 25 miles north of town on hwy. 67 (432) 229-3737 www.cibolocreekranch.com Historic 30,000 acre ranch, est. 1857, luxury accomodations, gourmet food, great views.

LOMA PALOMA RV PARK & GOLF COURSE 17138 E. FM 170 (432) 229-2992 RV hookups, golf and driving range.

RIATA INN

COVOS SERVICE STATION 913 N. Hwy 67 (432) 229-3717 Gasoline.

GALINDO’S AUTO SALES 1201 N. FM 170 (432) 229-4580

99206 Hwy. 67 (432) 229-2528 Nightly & weekly rentals.

OLIVAS JUNK YARD

THREE PALMS INN 1200 N. Erma Ave. (432) 229-3211 www.threepalmsinn.com Nightly & weekly rentals, swimming pool.

1818 Millington (432) 229-3655 Auto parts, some repairs.

PRESIDIO AUTO PARTS/NAPA

Automotive

405 E O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3982 Auto parts and accessories.

AUTOZONE

RIO GRANDE WRECKER SERVICES

101 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-2417 Auto parts and accessories.

406 Commerce St. (432) 229-3312 Automotive towing

CABELLO AUTO SUPPLY

RIVERA TIRE

301 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3046 New tires.

Hwy. 67 appx. 1 mile north of town Tires, batteries, vehicle inspection 432-229-2400

SAM’S AUTO BODY REPAIR & REBUILD Hwy 67 appx. 2 miles north of town (432) 229-4557 Auto body collision repair.

TIRE WORLD

DON JOSE PANADERIA 109 Erma St. (432) 229-3424 Bakery, menudo, barbacoa.

DY CONVENIENCE STORE 104 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-4488 Snacks, burritos & more, gasoline

401 W. O’Reilly St. (915) 886-8527 Used & new tires, flats fixed,

TOM’S SERVICE STATION 604 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3259 Minor repairs, vehicle inspection, used & new tires.

EL PATIO RESTAURANT 513 O’Reilly St. Mexican & American cuisine. (432) 229-4409

THE ENLIGHTENED BEAN

Food & Drink

201 W. O’Reilly St. Breakfast & lunch only, sandwiches, espresso. (432) 229-3131

BIG A MART

LA CABANA

200 E. FM 170 (432) 229-4113 Convenience store, snacks & beer.

700 E. O’Reilly St. Mexican & American cuisine. (432) 229-3368

SUBSCRIBE TO PRESIDIO INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPER: The

El

WWW.BIGBENDNOW.COM

VISITOR INFORMATION

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THANKS TO THE DEVELOPMENT CORPORATION OF PRESIDIO FOR SPONSORING THE LISTINGS THIS YEAR!

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LA ESCONDIDA RESTAURANT & BAR Beer & Wine, American & Mexican cuisine.

LA PASADITA DRIVE THRU 501 N. Belmont (432) 229-4146 Mexican & American cuisine.

OASIS RESTAURANT 1200 N. Erma Ave. (432) 229-3998 Mexican & American cuisine.

AMISTAD LOAN CO.

LA JUNTA INSURANCE

PRESIDIO TV CABLE

100 N. Erma Ave. (432) 229-2417 Small loans.

1403 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-4621 Insurance and real estate. Travel insurance.

511 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3805 Cable television provider.

LAS FLORES DE VAN GOGH

918 Erma St. Electronics, cellular phone service & sales. (432) 229-3620

DOLLAR GENERAL STORE 1304 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-4284 Discount store.

DOWNTOWN LAUNDRY

805 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-2414 Flowers & floral arrangements.

501 E. O’Reilly St. Coin-op laundromat.

M. NIETO DEPARTMENT STORE

PONCHO’S PIZZA N VIDEO

EDITBODY FITNESS

307 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-2660 Pizza.

902 E. O’Reilly St. Indoor gym, exercise equipment.

903 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3220 Dept. store and ranch supply.

PRESIDIO THRIFTWAY 504 N. Erma Ave. (432) 229-3776 Groceries, bakery, chicken, pizza.

SUBWAY SANDWICHES 1309 Hwy. 67 (432) 229-2505 Sandwiches, salads, pizza, soups.

Shopping & Services

FAMILY DOLLAR STORE 404 W. O’Reilly st. (432) 229-3849 Discount store.

FARMERS INSURANCE 507 US hwy 67 (432) 229-2874 Home & auto insurance.

709 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3686 Small loans, tax preparation.

FIRST PRESIDIO BANK

MELROSE

601 N. Erma Ave. (432) 229-3724

502 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-2955 Discount clothing.

FORT DAVIS STATE BANK

403 E. O’Reilly St. Furniture and mattresses. 432-229-2882

206 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-5000

ALCO DISCOUNT

701 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3256 Hardware, paint, plumbing.

ALMA’S BEAUTY SALON 901 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-4566 or (432) 294-1796 Hairstyling and cuts, mens and women.

AMERICAN STORE 250 Gonzales St. (432) 238-1366 /367 Nights: (432) 229-2641 Retail store. American Taxi. Transportation service.

705 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3526 Discount clothing.

MAVERICK FINANCE OF TEXAS

A & C FURNITURE

1000 US Hwy 67 (432) 229-3166 Department store.

M & M RAMIREZ STORE

HARPER HARDWARE

INDI’S BOUTIQUE 701 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3798 Women’s clothing.

KARINA’S DISCOUNT STORE 103 E. Commerce St. (432) 229-4767 Discount store.

L & S WAREHOUSE 410 N. Belmont (432) 229-4494 New & used items.

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MONTANA WESTERNWEAR 1120 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3224 Western apparel.

PAYLESS SHOESOURCE 506 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-2991 Footwear.

PRESIDIO LUMBER 502 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3320 Hardware and lumber.

PRESIDIO MEDICAL CENTER 501 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-4246 Health services.

PRESIDIO TAXI (432) 229-2959 Transportation service.

RADIO SHACK

RAINBOW SELF-SERVICE LAUNDRY 912 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3036 Coin-op laundromat.

ROSALBA VAZQUEZ 700 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-2573 Notary public.

RR SUPPLY / TRUE VALUE HARDWARE 205 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-2545 Hardware, plumbing.

SANTA FE CABINETS 405 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-2995 Custom made wood cabinets.

SOTELO IRON WORKS (432) 229-4040 or (432) 940-2116 Custom welding, grills, benches.

UETA 1305 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3766 Duty-free liquor and perfume.

VELASCO DUMP & BACKHOE SERVICES 1209 Utopia Rd. (432) 229-3769 Earth moving equipment, site prep.

WTG FUELS 1508 E. Huckabee (432) 229-3614 Propane tanks filled.

XTREME WIRELESS 700 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3940 AT&T and Verizon wireless sales & service

Photos: The new Presidio Information Kiosk, complete with area map and literature. Photo by Brad Newton.

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SHWEIKI MEDIA AD

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