A LAO BOAT RIDE A LIFE-CHANGING TRIP TO DEATH VALLEY TELEMEDICINE DOMINO PLAYERS IN CUBA
JUL/AUG 2013
PREMIERE ISSUE
The Evolution of the American Dream
GlobaL Parenting One young family shares their experiences living on two continents with three boys COVER STORY //
JUL/AUG 2013
is a lifestyle magazine that in-
spires & unites full-time travelers worldwide with engaging stories, insights for your next journey, stunning photographs, remarkable worldwide events, and even more: aims to incite you to make a transformation towards a life fueled by these rich experiences if you aren’t living it already.
editorial team
Editor-in-Chief: Nicole Beck Editorial Assistant: Mosila Andrei Alexandru Contributing Editor: Dr. Forrest Beck, ND Contributing Editor: Jacob Moss Copy Editor: Kristin Sengdeng Design by Half Asleep Studio
Creative Director: Natalie Walstein Design Assistant: Rebecca Brayman
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a note from nicole Champagne tonight! The first issue of MERGE is out the digital door! I am so excited to bring you this incredible first issue and so thankful to everyone who helped bring this project to fruition. The partnership and support of Natalie Walstein and Half Asleep Studio, have been an integral part of this entire venture. I literally would not have pulled this off without her. Knowing it would be a huge challenge to travel, road school my son, and start the magazine, I looked for and found additional support at nearly every turn, keeping my thoughts focused and positive with the help of my husband and son, as well as the inspiring advice of Carrie Green at the Female Entrepreneur Association. I thank them and all the amazing contributors who have been patient and encouraging down this long road. I’ll save you from more and let you get to these inspiring and entertaining stories from around the world. Please drop me an email or a note via social media about what you loved so I can continue to grow this into the best and most widely read literary travel magazine there is. Here’s to many more! See you on the road of life,
Nicole Beck
Founder & Editor-in-Chief
atlas score MERGE has created a ATLAS ranking system to # give you a quick idea of how committed a writer is to a life of perpetual travel and how difficult this life might be for them. ATLAS is an acronym for Assessment of Travel Liberty And Sovereignty. How unfettered from conventional responsibilities, how free to do as they please and how deeply committed they are to a life dedicated to travel. Each question is granted half a star for a possible total of 5 stars. 1. Homeless? Is there a place of refuge they can return to between trips? 2. Can they hack it? Have they been traveling for over two years? 3. Mouths to feed and backs to wash? Are they traveling with children? 4. Reach? Are they traveling internationally?
5. Hand to Mouth? Have they found a way to work independent of location? 6. Spring Chicken? Are they under the age of 50? 7. Expat? Have they spent over 5 years generally outside of their home country? 8. Rolling Stone? Can they move at anytime? 9. Free Agent? Do they travel independent of sponsors and promotions? 10. Crazy? Have they done something extraordinary, exhibited spectacular courage, or entered a unique situation by choice? Some examples include travel to restricted areas, having a baby in a foreign country, or maybe an extreme hobby across many countries.
>> To find out more about any writer, simply click their name for a direct link to their personal website or blog.
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regional dialects
The contributors to MERGE Magazine are as diverse as our incredible planet. For many, English is a second, third, or even fourth language. Their writing is their voice, and just as we enjoy hearing an accent on a foreign speaker, we do not overly edit their writing to make it sterile for American eyes and ears. We allow the writer’s voice to shine through so you are able to have more of a personal storytelling experience as you read an article. Yes, our publication originates in the U.S., but there are readers from all over
the world enjoying the captivating stories found under the covers of MERGE. We appreciate the courage that it takes to write a piece of work for thousands of people to read, in a language that is not native. In addition, writers from the U.K., Australia, and other English-speaking countries will submit with spelling and grammar that is proper in their homelands. Please do not jump to conclusions if you see “traveler” spelled as “traveller” or some other instance. Respect the diversity of this world and enjoy the stories! Editorial Notes
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in this issue
Alberta, Canada
United States
42
Italy
60
18
Death Valley, CA
84 14
Calendar of Events July/August 2013
Trinidad, Cuba
42
Cover Feature: Global Parenting By Cori Beddoes
JUL/AUG 2013 ///// THE STAPLES 14 Calendar of Events 29 Road Trippin’ Tools 41 Nomad Necessities 52 What in the World Did
Nong Khiaw, Laos
30
You Say?
///// TRAVEL LOG 18 Letting Go in the Middle
of Nowhere by Laura Baker
30 8 Hours on a Lao Boat to
Watch an Old Woman Pick Her Nose by Jacob Moss
76 Maramureş - A Fairytale Adventure by Olivia-Petra Coman Maramureş, Romania
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84 Domino Players by a
Sidestreet in Trinidad, Cuba by Adrian Seah
///// INTERVIEW 72 Interview with Helen
Pollock of RV Guests
///// EDITORIAL 42 Global Parenting
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Telemedicine By Dr. Forrest Beck
by Cori Beddoes
54 Telemedicine
by Forrest Beck, ND
60 The Evolution of the
American Dream by Nicole Beck
Frequent Flyers NICOLE BECK Editor-in-Chief
DR. FORREST BECK Contributing Editor
MOSILA ANDREI ALEXANDRU Editorial Assistant
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JACOB MOSS Contributing Editor
NATALIE WALSTEIN Creative Director
KRISTIN SENGDENG Copy Editor
REBECCA BRAYMAN Design Assistant
IN THIS ISSUE JACOB MOSS - 8 Hours on a Lao Boat...
Journalist & Founder of UPickAPath.com CURRENT LOCATION: Laos / Citizenship: Australia
Jacob Moss is a journalist with a curiosity for
ATLAS travel. His journalism is the kind that is part of the newly minted multimedia breed, yet one that still believes in the pillars of old fashioned quality reporting and feature writing. He has worked for various magazines and newspapers in Europe along with highly regarded publications in Australia like The Australian newspaper and the online magazine Crikey. He specializes in the areas of travel, politics, society, culture and the obscure. With a fascination for the interaction of different societies and their dwellers and the issues they face, his ambition is to one day express whatever it is that gives him that uncomfortable indigestion when thinking of such things. His insatiable want to learn about the world and then write about it continues and currently has him stumbling into the intimate pockets of South East Asia. He is the founder of the unique interactive website UPickAPath, where he haphazardly allows his readers to decide the steps in his next adventure, and often, his fate.
3.5
LAURA BAKER - Letting Go in the Middle of Nowhere Owner of Ethos Adventures CURRENT LOCATION: USA / Citizenship: USA
Laura Baker owns & operates Ethos Adventures; ATLAS a unique travel company that creates custom self-guided itineraries that are kept classified from clients and revealed only as each adventure unfolds. Prior to starting EA, Laura worked as an environmental lawyer focusing on air quality, transportation and environmental justice issues. She grew up exploring the Sierra Nevada Mountains near Yosemite National Park and has lived all over the country. Laura is an avid outdoorswoman and certified running coach.
2.5
MERGE Contributors 9
NICOLE BECK - The Evolution of the American Dream Founder and Editor-in-Chief of MERGE Magazine CURRENT LOCATION: USA / Citizenship: USA
Nicole LOVES traveling and used to struggle to
ATLAS reconcile her passion with the two week vacation allotment of standard employment. She has had careers in environmental science, project & small business management and motherhood. Experience from these past lives helped her create MERGE Magazine; a collection of exclusive experience-based features, which she now runs on location. She is just finishing an epic road-trip via motor home in the U.S with her husband and son, whom she road schools. Together they will be moving to the UAE within weeks to begin a new adventure. She enjoys writing, so in addition to working with the writers, designers, and advertisers at MERGE, she will include a little something in each issue. Send her your thoughts at nicole@merge-mag.com.
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CORI BEDDOES - Global Parenting Photojournalist at CoriBeddoes.com CURRENT LOCATION: CANADA / Citizenship: CANADA
Cori’s interest in the people, culture and history ATLAS of the world has led her to many fascinating places, from the temples of Angkor, to the Berlin Wall, to the beaches of Melbourne, to the ruins of Hampi. Since graduating with a degree in history from the University of Ottawa, she’s poured ale in a London pub, taught English in Canada, Germany and Italy, married and became a mother to three busy boys. Currently residing in her hometown of Red Deer, Alberta, Cori is an avid photographer who blogs her family’s daily adventures while preparing to move back to the mountains of Italy. Photo credit: Bonnie Hoskin / Traditions
3.5
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DR. FORREST BECK - Telemedicine Contributing Editor & Author CURRENT LOCATION: USA / Citizenship: USA/CANADA
Forrest has had an insatiable wanderlust since
ATLAS spending a college year abroad in Austria and backpacking around Europe. He tried on a conventional lifestyle, but couldn’t find one that was comfortable for very long, citing a need for more time with his growing son. A graduate in naturopathic medicine, he owned and operated a family practice in Port Townsend, WA for 8 years before authoring a book titled “Cultivating the Fine Art of Selfishness” and implementing his own advice to the fullest by doing what he loves to do while being of service to others. He has spent the last year road tripping in his motor home with his wife (editor-in-chief at MERGE) and son. He is now on his way to work in Abu Dhabi in the UAE as a health advisor where he will travel extensively for work and pleasure.
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OLIVIA-PETRA COMAN - Maramureş Writer at Petra’s Chessboard CURRENT LOCATION: ROMANIA / Citizenship: ROMANIA
Experienced traveller, history buff, lover of
ATLAS adventure and extreme water sports, and last but not least – vegetarian. Born and raised in Braşov, Romania, I have been constantly pursuing my greatest dream: seeing the world for what it is, without any commercial ‘make-up’ or artificial add-ons.
2.5
MERGE Contributors 11
ADRIAN SEAH - Domino Players in Trinidad, Cuba Photojournalist at HandcarryOnly.com CURRENT LOCATION: AUSTRALIA / Citizenship: SINGAPORE
“Travel always puts me outside of my comfort
ATLAS zone, confronting me with all manner of unfamiliar situations, languages, strange food, mind boggling scenery and precious opportunities to interact with all sorts of weird and wonderful people from around the world. All I have to do is point the camera and click. I do not take much credit for my photos; I am merely the operator of the mechanical eye. I shoot the mundane, the routine, the everyday miracles that many of us stopped noticing a while ago and find great beauty in them.” Adrian is currently on a one-year travel sabbatical from his position as an advertising creative director at CNN. He is now featured as a contributor to CNN Travel, and so far has experienced much of the southern hemisphere. His photographs are stunning and his words poetic – the combination will awaken your senses and transport your soul.
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Media
art & design services to beautify your business!
calendar of events
JULY 1 World UFO Day World Bodypainting Festival in Austria
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>> photo by Gerhard-Grasinger
calgary stampede in canada Hailed as the “Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth�, it runs for 10 days and offers participants over 2 million CAD in prize money. Tack on Banff and Glacier National Park and you have a new addition to your list of adventures to conquer. >> photo courtesy of
calgary stampede
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festival of san fermin in pamplona, spain (aka The Running of the Bulls)
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last day of the roskilde festival, denmark (june 29-july 7) Roskilde Festival is not only the largest North European culture and music festival, they have donated a total of DKK 180 million (over 31 million USD) for humanitarian and cultural work throughout their years of operation.
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>> photo by christian hjorth
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boryeong mud festival, south korea (july 19-28) >> photo by shawn perez
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nelson mandela international day (UN)
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>> photo by ben parer
hammock day
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bastille day, france
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>> photo by edgar olivera
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lorraine mondial air balloon festival, france (july 26-aug 4) Around 350 hot air balloons synchronized for take off.
population day
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Raising awareness of global population issues and encouraging universal access to reproductive health services.
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>> photo by nicole beck
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Calendar of Events: JULY 15
calendar of events
AUGUST 10
9
world breastfeeding week (august 1-7)
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2
7
pga championship, new york, usa (aug 8-11)
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Golf season’s final major.
garage sale day If you aren’t a full-time traveler yet, start cleaning out the crap and hit the road!
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5
4
11 friendship day
international beer day
frog jump festival, valley city, ohio, usa
>> photo by stefan gustafsson
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13 international lefthanders day
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14
15 relaxation day
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august is la tomatina in buñ˜¨øønol, spain
golf month
>> photo by agsaran
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notting hill carnival in west london, uk (aug 25-26) Europe’s biggest street festival >> photo by janusz kaliszczak
burning man festival in nevada, usa (aug 26-sept 2)
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>> photo by keith pomakis
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17
vesuvius day spumoni day
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Celebrate this layered Italian ice cream dessert which includes cream, fruit and nuts. Yum!
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commemorates the historic eruption of Mount Vesuvius on this day in 79 A.D, which destroyed the city of Pompeii in Italy. >> dramatiZed scene from
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the discovery channel’s pompeii: the last day courtesy of crew creative, ltd.
Calendar of Events: AUGUST 17
/// LOCATION Death Valley is a desert valley located in Eastern California and is situated within the Mojave Desert. >> MAP COURTESY OF PAULNOLL.COM 18
travel log
Letting Go in the Midd le of Nowhere
When Laura recently ventured into Death Valley in California she expected to find awesome scenery, mineral hot springs, unique desert ruins, and good times with an old friend. Instead, she emerged with gratitude, hope, relief, and a truer version of herself. >> Words & photos by laura baker / ethos adventures
expectation It’s human nature to form expectations, to plot and plan, hope and dream. We do it because we are taught to be goal oriented and outcome driven; we want the best. We think that by identifying what we need out of a single experience we can influence our circumstances to achieve these assumed requirements. We have all heard stories about someone’s amazing trip that was made extra special by something they hadn’t expected to happen. We hear these and are inspired to travel
ourselves only to feel disappointed when we don’t find the same result or experience. As an advanced society we are made to feel that if an experience doesn’t provide the expected outcome, there must have been a failure of someone, somewhere, and often we blame ourselves. “I should have planned better.” “I should have researched this more.” I have long known that as much as I love being in control of my plans, travel and otherwise, that I truly have the most amazing experiences when nothing goes as expected. As part of Letting Go in the Middle of Nowhere 19
Ethos Adventures Laura Baker operates an outdoor adventure company providing clients an experience where expectations and predictions are nearly impossible. Ethos Adventures creates unique itineraries that are classified from the clients and revealed only as each adventure unfolds (think adventure-scavenger hunt meets the Amazing Race!).
Death Valley, California
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my business I am constantly researching and scouting great adventures, which means that my personal experiences are necessarily planned and predictable. Yet, I recently found something completely unexpected when out scouting in Death Valley. This is my story.
experiencing the unexpected I am a runner. I have been a runner for two-thirds of my life. I don’t run to win races, to stay fit, or to make friends. I run because I love it. It’s just what I do; it’s who I am. About a year ago I developed a pretty serious pain in my heel. Not a debilitating pain, just a niggling “hey, I’m here!” kind of pain. After about nine months (and another marathon) the pain had grown. On a good day I only felt it a little bit. On a bad day I walked with a noticeable limp. All runners run with pain, it’s just what we do. “I can run through this,” I thought, but the pain continued to grow. I started to feel it even when I wasn’t running, or even walking. I knew it was bad when my heel became discolored, swollen, warm to the touch, and pulsed nearly all the time. I decided that I could
Letting Go in the Middle of Nowhere 21
no longer ignore it. After conducting some online research (like any good millennial), I invested in special orthotics, started taking an antiinflammatory three times a day, icing it every night and limiting my runs to no more than six miles (that’s a limit, right?). While coping with the reality of short runs, I continued living as if nothing else had changed and embarked upon a trip I had previously planned with a good friend. My objective had been to scout a mix of popular and unique spots in the desert 22
that other travelers might enjoy and to provide a much needed relaxing vacation for my friend. We spent our first few days hiking, trail running, visiting, taking in unbelievable sunsets, and dipping in mineral hot springs. Everything was going exactly as I had expected. Except that the pain in my heel was worsening by the day. Walking had become excruciatingly painful and I found that I was so preoccupied with my internal troubles that I was struggling to appreciate the beauty around us.
As part of our last full day in the desert I had scheduled a “surprise” therapeutic massage for my friend. What better way to de-stress before heading back into the real world? I had scheduled myself a super short one as well as a courtesy. I really didn’t think I needed a massage, but in booking it the woman on the phone had been so nice and helpful that I wanted to return the favor. So I had agreed to a 30-minute massage. I wasn’t particularly looking forward to handing over my hard earned cash just to have a stranger rub my loose shoulders, but nevertheless I had made the appointment, so I figured I might as well check it out for future clients. When I arrived at the “office” (read: small house attached to a trailer) I was even less excited. My friend was just finishing her appointment as I arrived so I made myself comfortable in the living room and perused one of the brochures. I had previewed it earlier when I booked our appointments but I guess I didn’t understand what “therapeutic” meant. I imagined that the woman would ask what I was stressed about while she rubbed my shoulders…I really wasn’t sure. Upon closer inspection, I realized that she specialized in healing specific pains.
"I guess I didn’t understand what ‘therapeutic’ meant. I imagined that the woman would ask what I was stressed about while she rubbed my shoulders.” Interesting, I thought. Maybe I should tell her about my heel? I wasn’t sure if masseuses usually worked on feet but I figured I was committed to 30 minutes of something so I might as well mention it. As my previously overworked and stressed out friend rolled off the massage table, I saw a noticeable difference in her. The change had been occurring gradually throughout our trip. Where she once vented about work, she had begun to comment on the beauty and rarities around us. But it was when she thanked, hugged and bid adieu to the outgoing short woman who ran a massage business out of her home with a relaxed smile on her face that I knew she had found some real peace. Letting Go in the Middle of Nowhere 23
The woman began our session the way I imagine a therapist would, “tell me about your body.” I laughed. What? “Uh, I guess my biggest issue is this pain in my heel.” I showed it to her. She was speechless for a moment. “This is really serious,” she said. “This is the kind of thing that probably needs surgery. And it’s the kind of surgery that has mixed results. What did you do?” Shit. I had read something online about this possibility but I had been doing my best to ignore it. “Yeah,” I said. “I read that might be necessary so I just stopped running (only slight exaggeration here) and started icing it every night…I only recently decided to stop ignoring the pain.” I admitted. “I’ll see what I can do,” she said. “But I have to be honest, this is really serious.” This is when I started to panic. Sure, the online descriptions had been bad, and sure the pain was out of this world, but I had been so afraid of not being able to run that I had not accepted this as a potential reality. In fact, in my delusion I had imagined that if I took even a few days off now, that it would somehow mean that I couldn’t run for the rest of my life; 24
a reality that was easier to pretend didn’t exist than to accept. Shoving her fingers in between my bones, she pushed and prodded and sighed and grunted, and I tried not to react to the pain. I must have started to squirm though because she stopped. “I need you to promise me something here,” she said. “I need you to promise me that if this becomes too painful that you will let me know. This is really serious and I am making some small progress but we don’t want to cause more damage.” I promised immediately.
LETTING GO OF EXPECTATIONS I don’t know why I trusted this woman who worked out of her home in the middle of nowhere. I don’t know why I agreed to pay for a 30-minute massage that I didn’t need. I don’t know why now, at this point, I was willing to give up my conviction to run through every pain. I don’t know why something about this felt real. It felt like progress. It felt painful, but it hit me right then that I was willing to go through any amount of pain now and take (practically) any amount of time off, if it meant that I would be able to run for the rest of my life.
"I don’t know why I trusted this woman who worked out of her home in the middle of nowhere.” “Breathe,” she instructed. “Breathe down to your feet.” Esoteric as that seems, in and out I breathed. “Yes! Yes, you’re doing it!” She exclaimed as she manipulated my foot. “We’re getting somewhere now.” As I felt her fingers inside my foot, pushing aside my muscles and ligaments and gently shifting my bones back into place, my heart sped up, my body began to shake, and I felt tears roll down my face. I let the waterworks rip as I let go. I let go of my fear of not running every day. I let go of my fear that “fixing” this injury would break the bank. I let go of my need to be independent and fix it myself (run through it). I let go of my need to be defined by this activity, running. In a rush of adrenaline and emotion, I let go of everything. When the shaking and the tears finally stopped, she had me stand on it. No pain. I’m not kidding. For the first time in months, walking was painless. I nearly started crying again I was so grateful.
ACCEPTING THE UNEXPECTED When it came time to pay we both looked at the clock and realized that she had been working on me for close to two hours! Though I would have paid anything at this moment (that’s what credit cards are for right?) before I could say a word she charged me for a mere 30 minutes. Apparently my friend had already paid to extend my session to an hour and the massage therapist had thrown in the extra hour! At this point I did start crying again. I hadn’t asked for any special treatment. I hadn’t asked for my friend to help me out or anticipated this kind of generosity. I hadn’t even known that I needed this and I certainly hadn’t expected it to change my life. And yet these two amazingly kind individuals, one for whom I would do anything and one whom I had never even met before, were looking out for me; giving me a priceless life-altering gift that I didn’t yet know that I needed.
"I hadn’t even known I needed this and I certainly didn’t expect it to change my life.” Letting Go in the Middle of Nowhere 25
“We become so committed to the expectation that we can’t see what is before us and instead fight the reality of the present moment, sacrificing it, in order to achieve the expectation.” I was sent away with a hug, a bag of local clay to smear on my foot to reduce the swelling and instructions to replace all of my shoes and lay off running for awhile, as my injury was caused by “blunt force trauma,” i.e. repetitively pounding the pavement. That was a month ago, and no jinxes, the pain has not returned. As instructed I have yet to start running and have replaced (almost) all of my shoes. Admittedly, I pushed it a little too far on a couple of hikes and while the pain did not come back I could feel my foot start to tire. So I am slowly learning the difference between pushing myself and listening to my body. I know that I will run again eventually and I have learned that it is all right if it does not happen today. I am more than 26
just a runner and I am learning to love that about myself as well. Though I believe in having an open mind and living in the moment of my experiences, this trip more than anything demonstrated the power and reward of what can come from actually doing it. It would have been easy to force my expectations into becoming my reality. I had only expected to get a back rub. I had only expected to stay for 30 minutes. I had not expected to trust a complete stranger enough to let down my guard. I certainly had not expected to let go of my conviction to run through the pain. I could have remained committed to these expectations, but then I would not have seen the opportunities before me and not have
found the relief I so desperately needed. In all travels, and in life in general, we form expectations and we commit to them, consciously and subconsciously. We become so committed to the expectation that we can’t see what is before us and instead fight the reality of the present moment, sacrificing it, in order to achieve the expectation. The flight is delayed so we run to another ticket counter to find one with the expected arrival time. The restaurant in the guidebook is closed for renovations so we search for one that is substantially similar. We thought we would be able to complete the hike within an hour but it took four hours and now the rest of the day is shot and we are exhausted. The famous photograph of the park was taken on a clear day many years ago but we are met with overgrown trees and a storm. It can be disappointing and devastating when things don’t go as planned. But that is just life, it’s not anyone’s fault. Circumstances are constantly changing and evolving, that’s reality. If we can let go of our expectations long enough to accept the experience that is here, now, in this moment - we will never
be disappointed. Though I started the trip with one set of expectations, it was my openness to experiencing what was possible and openness to letting go of the thoughts and convictions I clung to so determinately that allowed to me find what I truly needed.
Letting go of what you think you need and what you expect to get out of a trip is challenging, but when you do it, the rewards are boundless. I know this to be true, for I went into the desert one person and I came out a wiser version of myself. Letting Go in the Middle of Nowhere 27
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK // Image courtesy of Wiki Commons
Explore a new place in an unexpected way with a
classified itinerary that will have you
experiencing each moment as it unfolds.
Start your Adventure today.
road trippin' tools
6
Bocasa Blue Sunrise Picnic Blanket Nice large size can double as an extra blanket on chilly nights
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Road Trippin' Tools 29
/// LOCATION From Luang Prabang, the Mekong and the Nam Ou river, into the remote village of Nong Khiaw, Laos >> MAP COURTESY OF ECOTOURISM LAOS
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travel log
8 HOURS on a Lao boat to watch a woman pick her nose. >> Words & photos by jacob moss / upickapath.com
The white, hand-made miniature wooden chair seems as if it has been transplanted from some eleven-year-old girl’s tea house. Lashed with rope to the side of the cardboard boat that’s bobbing on the water as if nodding, confirming your initial thought; for the next eight hours, you should have considered travel insurance and brought an extra fluffy pillow. From the ex-colonial town of Luang Prabang, where baguettes and croissants are found alongside noodles and rice in any restaurant’s menu, I board a boat on the Mekong heading north to the Nam Ou river. This trip came recommended as an “insider tip” from a German restaurateur married to a Lao girl: “Don’t take the slow boat along the Mekong into Thailand – that’s what all the tourists do,” he advised. “Go north on the local boat
along the Nam Ou river – the scenery is far more spectacular.” Not a local is to be seen on the suggested boat, which leaves Luang Prabang full of tourists, heading north against the current.
“Don’t take the slow boat along the Mekong into Thailand - that’s what all the tourists do.” Like most of South East Asia, no matter how hard a person tries to travel independently here, the foreigner is always handicapped, disabled in some way. All roads lead back to the welloiled tourist trail, whether you like it or not. There are few places left where tourists are yet to plant their flag. 8 Hours 31
Soured with this reality on this particular day, I sit at the rear of the boat in an attempt to avoid conversation. The Mekong River is the vein of old Indo-China, weaving through China, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam. And like all of the great rivers in the world it is at the heart of many people’s lives. This is obvious in the scenes that stand still - as they have for hundreds of years - as we glide by on the river like some boat ride at a fair. Scenes of village life and of a people and an 32
economy dragged along by agriculture like a plough being dragged by a buffalo remind me of a time I never lived. And that chickens have feathers and are not born as pink filets clingwrapped to guarantee freshness. The river is the supermarket, the swimming pool, the bath, the kitchen sink, a source of occupation and wealth, however minimal it may be. Men and women in dome hats pan for precious stones in its silty bed. Taut, young men spear fish, aged ladies squat on the muddy banks scrubbing laundry, river weed is collected for drying
and eating, butt-naked children wave excitedly as we pass. And as the sun begins to descend, it seems the whole village is down at the river bathing, including the buffaloes. It is alive with splashing, children laughing and soaped up men playfully pushing each other off rocks into the water. These people do not know the world and the world has no idea who they are. And unfortunately, after many years of standing still, the world is progressing in light years without them, and seemingly not giving a shit who they are.
An economist would say that Laos is growing up. As one of the few remaining Communist nations, the country only really began opening up to the world in 2005 after its domestic economy was liberalised and opened to foreign investment. While economic growth is raising a select few from poverty, it still remains largely poor. But, like most of South East Asia, industrialisation acts like drastic plastic surgery to the face of the country.
8 Hours 33
The Mekong River is changing. The rapid construction of dams by government is affecting water levels. And I have no doubt, that ‘development’ will swallow these people whole.
Spend my last dollar travelling, until the day I die Passing a heard of lazing buffaloes, I can’t help but eavesdrop to a conversation in front of me between a French and Australian backpacker, both dressed in I love Phi Phi island singlets. It makes me want to capsize the boat. “I hear they shoot buffaloes with rocket launchers in Cambodia,” says the Frenchmen to the Australian. “Man! I can eat meat, I can eat cows, but it’s different if you shoot ‘em with a rocket launcher…Jesus!” the Australian says with disgust, hugging his backpack. An American accent also becomes apparent on the boat, and it’s not until after a few moments sitting with a grimaced grin on my face that I realize it’s being addressed at me from a large bald man with thickets for eyebrows. I can’t stop looking at them and feel incredibly rude. “You travelling alone?” he asks when he can finally see he’s grabbed my attention. “Yeah, at the moment,” I said, and thought of an unsuspecting buffalo exploding like a piñata. “And
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yourself?” I asked after a moment of contemplation. “Nah, it’s me and Emma up there,” he indicates towards a Mediterranean looking woman up the front of the boat. “We’re arguing,” he confides in me as if to relieve a bowel problem he’s had for a week. “I got an email from my wife asking me to send money for my kids.” He looked straight at me and said resolutely, “and I did.” I connected the dots in my head, but was not one to pry; especially not when I can sense that there will be a long story or explanation to follow – which followed nevertheless. “I know what you’re thinking,” he said, and I wondered if he could see the smouldering flesh fragments of a buffalo scattered all over a field. “It’s a bit odd to most people, but our respective spouses didn’t want this lifestyle – so we left them behind,” he said with a shrug, looking down at the water. Something was charming about this bushy eye-browed man. “How long have you been travelling for?” I asked. “Argh, seems like forever. I’m 67 years old and I’ve been travellin’ for half of them,” he smiles a tired, content smile. “I figure that if I live 19 more years, and everything goes according to plan, I’ll be spending my
last dollar travelling on the day I die,” he says. “Just can’t sit still,” he says. I enjoy his accent and listening to him talk.
"I hear they shoot buffaloes with rocket launchers in Cambodia.” My ear is drawn to another conversation between the Australian and Frenchman: “When a beggar comes up to you in Cambodia and has all their limbs, I mean, come on,” the Australian scoffs. “Look at the competition! You should at least be missing an arm or a leg.” This is followed by laughter. I return to the American man for distraction. “Bit of a nomad then are you, where you originally from?” I ask. “Florida…Emma’s Spanish, we met each other on the road.” “Where have you been?” I ask. “Everywhere. But we’ve just escaped three months down in Singapore. We were staying at a hostel and the owner wanted to go on a holiday for 8 Hours 35
a while, so we offered to mind the shop for him,” he said. “We almost went mad – we’re not made for nesting. But we were earning 420 dollars a month so I feel like a very rich man at the moment,” he says, while eating his pack of dry twominute noodles. His full eyebrows rise and arch, giving him the warm look of a character from a children’s book. He reaches out to shake my hand. “I’m Tom,” he says. “Jake,” I say in return and squeeze his hand. “Nice to meet you,” I say. And it truly was. The river has moods, the driver tells me as we approach rapids that are merely a few inches deep. The bottom of the boat scraping on stones can be felt and heard. The car
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“We were earning 420 dollars a month so I feel like a very rich man at the moment.” motor that propels the boat forward is reduced to a purr in sections and the driver navigates the rapids with a long bamboo pole. At one stage, the driver pulls over and indicates he wants us to walk along the embankment. “You are too heavy – you must walk 20 minutes...that way,” he flicks his hand in no particular direction and leaves us.
Three British men lead the way muttering complaints under their breath and sagging fishing hats. A man and woman animatedly speaking Spanish don’t take much notice as they remain in the trance of flirting, while a ponytailed Dutch girl falls into a scrubby bush. The driver is lying on the roof of the boat with a cigarette hanging out of his mouth, sleeping when we find him. One of the British men shakes him, “Come on ya’ bugger!” The driver replies after smacking his lips and stretching his arms, “half way- another four hours.” As we turn the corner to slip into the Nam Ou river from the Mekong, dramatic giant karsts draped in vines are gradually revealed like a curtain being drawn. They create a corridor and heighten the sense that we are entering a place removed from the rest of the world. Now, from where you sit in your living room, you would imagine that every inch of this planet is easily accessible. But some places are not.
I’ve arrived at the remote northern Lao village only accessible by boat, Nong Khiaw.
free ikea pencils
As soon as I reach for my
backpack they come running. Like a stampede, screaming with arms outreached. They don’t know me, but they’re happy to see me; because I’m white, I have money, I’m an outsider. I’m here because they look different to me, they’re poor, and I’m interested in how they live. The curiosity that draws travellers to these villages is perverse and makes me feel uncomfortable that I could be part of that.
“
But perhaps one thing that attracts us is the purity often found in these places. The simplistic lives, in which a community is reduced to bare basics, yet seem happy and warmer in heart than those of us who live in our cities.
Well, this is how I am convinced by the idealistic naïve self within me. Their streets are still paved with dirt and this cannot be romanticised too much. Children with grubby faces are pulling at my pockets, my shirt and something within me.
8 Hours 37
"Give them one of the free pencils you can grab handfuls of at the entrance of every store, and you have inspired happiness that stands on stilts." I hand out the bundle of IKEA pencils I had stockpiled back home and paper to the almond dark eyes that meddle with my conscience. They quickly disperse, finding a place on the dirt to scribble and draw their bursting imaginations down on paper. It makes me laugh that IKEA could give millions of dollars in aid to these countries and never provoke a smile in one of these children. Give them one of the free pencils you can grab handfuls of at the entrance of every store, and you have inspired happiness that stands on stilts. A crooked old lady is curious of the excitement. She walks right up to me and indicates with a nudge that she would like a pencil. The only one I
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have left is blunt so I show her how to sharpen it with my pocketknife. With this, she unsheathes a large machete and begins to sharpen the pencil, with gusto. I flinch and this makes her laugh. She continues to hold the pencil up close to her face, inspecting it with a childlike curiosity. She nudges me again and gives me back the paper. She’s pointing at the paper and I assume she wants me to draw something. My attempt at drawing a cow is pitiful and she laughs. She presses her hands together at her chest, gives a subtle bow and walks off to sit on a tree stump. I sit there for a good hour watching the village go about its afternoon ritual of sweeping. They are constantly sweeping the front of their houses here. It’s irrelevant if the porch of their house is merely a patch of dirt, it is swept with pride. A chicken and its chicks are trying to cross the dirt road that cuts through the centre of the small village but constantly retreat when a bicycle approaches. Piglets are foraging for food. Sheets of river weed, the same mucky green stuff I had seen them picking out of the river, are hung up in backyards to dry. Voices come from
inside the bamboo huts. A man who appears blind in one eye comes and sits next to me and speaks to me in a slurred tongue I do not understand, regardless of the language. Another old lady is shoving her face into a watermelon and spitting the pips out with authority. She is looking at me suspiciously. I can understand why. Every now and again she would see the odd traveller come through town and they would look at her with
a smile, but also with a glance as if she is an exhibit. And there is nothing more delightfully uncomfortable and inwardly challenging than when her eyes and the eyes of that traveller should meet. She has most likely never travelled far from this village. She has accepted that she will spend her entire life and die in this village. But people like me, have travelled thousands of kilometres to see her pick her nose and spit watermelon seeds.
8 Hours 39
As the afternoon drags on, people gather in sarongs around a bucket shower by the road and clean themselves methodically. Men are returning home to the village on motorbike from work and sitting down to eat. Without even thinking, I am snapping photo after photo of it all. Driven by a fascination in these ordinary lives. I then feel disgusted in myself. But continue to take photos. I want to know their names, ask them questions, put them into context and give a life to their faces. I want them to be more than photographs.
"And there is nothing more delightfully uncomfortable and inwardly challenging than when her eyes and the eyes of that traveler should meet.�
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But I leave only with the pictures the children give me, drawn with their IKEA pencils; one being a picture of a man wearing a backpack, and something resembling a camera as his head. 
nomad necessities
1 2
Eco Edition Playing Cards Never leave home without them...
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Tie Dye Hairbands For ladies with locks and dudes with dreads, a hairband is an invaluable travel necessity.
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40 Blinks Ultralight Sleep Mask Never again be annoyed when your air neighbor decides to read a novel at what was just 3AM in your timezone - get your beauty sleep!
HVLO Headphones in a Headband Perfect for planes or plains! Use this sporty headband to rock your favorite tunes while you exercise and to lull yourself to sleep in otherwise hostile sleeping environments. Sports pack even has two headbands one for sweat and one for sleep!
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7 En Route Travel Journal Blogging your experiences publicly is one thing, but where do you record that time in Bangkok when...?
Waterlily Infinity Scarf This scarf is such an eye-catcher and has so many uses on the road!
Skross World Travel Adaptor All-in-One, no pieces to lose. Added bonus, when not in use, kids find these fascinating, all the buttons and extensions popping in and out might make this a carry-on item!
Nomad Necessities 41
editorial
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Die Eltern:
GlobaL Parenting >> words by cori beddoes / photos by clayton beddoes
“Je vois Mama”, repeats my five-year-old Lenny to his new teacher at French immersion kindergarten. There’s something parti-
cularly exciting hearing my children speak different languages. It also makes potty humor much more acceptable for me, the only female in the household. In the six years since Lenny was born, I’ve had two more babies and we’ve moved ten times, across oceans and over continents, to five cities in three countries. So when we landed in Canada this spring, I decided rather than immerse Lenny in English, he might as well get going on French. That amounts to his fourth new school and fourth language in the last two years. It would be so fantastic to record the looks on people’s faces here in
“In the six years since Lenny was born, I’ve had two more babies and we’ve moved ten times, across oceans and over continents, to five cities in three countries.”
Alberta when I tell them I’ve got Lenny in French kindergarten! It’s shockingly hilarious, as if I’ve abandoned him to three hours a day of mental torture. “Oh poor kid!” they say with a bit of a giggle. And I admit that I use the phrase on the offensive when I want to avoid the “are you sure that’s a good idea?” kind of looks.
Global Parenting 43
So when I heard Lenny speak French at home for the first time last week I smiled to myself, knowing he is thriving socially in his new class and beginning to catch on already, after only a month. And when he had to be frozen for a couple of fillings at the dentist yesterday, I saw that same courage I’m used to seeing. “If only every patient was this easy!” raved the dentist. I quite literally have to remind myself he’s only five. His inner strength is admirable, to put it lightly. Of course, being back in Canada around our family and friends who know about our travels and adventures, there’s a lot of praise and envy for our lifestyle. “We envy your life”, “I’d do it in a second if I had the chance”, “What an experience” and “What an adventure!” are the most common. Many people do recognize the benefits for the children and there’s much commendation for exposing our children to different cultures. Life outside the box appeals to a lot of people, who although unsettled with the idea of doing it themselves, love to hear about our adventures. Of course, the Internet contributes to other’s admiration of our travels. This past year I photo blogged about our life in the mountains of northern Italy. Being in one of the most
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“Life outside the box appeals to a lot of people, who although unsettled with the idea of doing it themselves, love to hear about our adventures.“ beautiful corners of the world made it rather easy to promote our lifestyle! And with three busy boys, living in an outdoor adventure paradise made for an exciting time in our family’s life; hiking, exploring ruins of WWI, gondola rides to the top of mountains, sledding, skiing, skating, and traveling to cities like Venice and Innsbruck. It is times like these that help you forget the hardships and challenges of parenting globally. Remember when you were 19 years old and you went to Mexico on holiday with your significant other, backpacked Europe with your besties, and drank beer with some fellow travelers on Khao San Road? Remember that carefree kind of adventure travel? Yes, I remember riding on the back of a motorbike with my now husband through pepper plantations in Goa,
stopping for a beer to make plans for the rest of the day, with no thought or worry for tomorrow. Traveling and living overseas with small children is quite a different adventure. Although wondrous in so many different ways than the youthful amusement it once had, it comes with a bit more consideration. It’s one thing having to go to a doctor in a foreign country when you’re sick. It’s another when your child has an abscessed tooth on a Saturday evening in a small town where nothing is open on Sunday,
and even if it was, you don’t speak the language so you have to find someone who can help you to avoid the pain and puss exploding from your 5 year olds gum. (Yuck) Taking care of three little bodies is a big responsibility, and any parent knows it’s scary when they get sick or are in pain regardless of where you are. But in a foreign country, the added stress is realizing that there is no such thing as acetaminophen, it’s called paracetamol, and it’s not yummy grape flavor, it’s a suppository.This is what
Global Parenting 45
my children are preparing for without even knowing it. How to adapt, how to solve problems, and how to confront the uncomfortable. We are all learning how to live and be the best we can in this world, one day at a time. Sometimes Lenny does feel lonely and different from the other kids. Sometimes he just wants to live in Canada so he can play with his cousins and speak English to all the kids. Where he can fit in and be like everybody else. Of course kids want to feel that sense of belonging and acceptance. We all do, even as adults, so deciding to immerse my child in four languages in two years isn’t easy,
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and it’s a conscious choice to accept the consequences. I believe most parents are aware that spoiling their children isn’t preparing them for the realities of life. We know that feeding children processed sugary foods creates obesity and bad behavior, that giving them time outs for bad behavior and encouraging good behavior teaches them right and wrong, that bike rides are better than television, and violent video games aren’t a positiveinfluence on their vulnerable little minds. And yet, AND YET! Oh how easy it is to give into the tantrums and the complaining. I’m a mother of three
boys, 5, 4 and 2. Boys are loud. They fight. They run laps around the kitchen counter screaming bloody murder until one trips and falls into the corner of the doorway and needs 16 stitches in his head. That’s right, I know how easy it is to turn on the TV. The noise! And hearing night after night that they don’t like what I’ve cooked them could potentially drive me to insanity. But I continue to drive them to the ER for stitches just like I continue to put salad on their plate. Because one day they’ll eat the salad and one day they’ll learn to be careful. So hopefully they’ll become healthy young adults who know their limits. When I heard from Lenny’s kindergarten teacher in Italy that he “wasn’t his usual smiling happy self”, and was asked, “Is something wrong, did something happen at home?” it wasn’t easy. In those moments when I want my child to be the happiest kid on earth, I question what we’re doing. I wonder just how strong he really is, and if these challenges are too much for him to maintain his self-confidence and freedom as a child. It’s these moments that I remember he’s only 5 and also needs security and comfort in his life. Just like it wasn’t easy when Nick, who was 3 at the time, didn’t
want to go to playschool in Italy. I know plenty of parents in Canada who disagree with this ‘institutionalizing’ of children at three. Why wouldn’t I just keep him at home, he’s only three?
Global Parenting 47
The answer to these situations is easy. If Nick needs to be home, I’ll bring him home. If Lenny needs time off, I’ll let him miss a day. Anyone who travels in a permanent or semi-permanent lifestyle understands the importance of flexibility. You constantly have to adjust plans, change places, and meet new and different people. You have to attempt to learn from mistakes, but you quickly realize the more important skill is to adapt to the mistakes you make (or more likely the events that occur out of your control). Teaching children to think on the fly, to not be discouraged by disappointment, and to constructively problem solve comes easily with constant travel. I believe in the power of awareness. We have to talk to them, and keep a constant eye on how they’re coping with all our moves and their new environments, so that we can act and react according to their needs. Simply keeping Nick out of Italian playschool because he cried the first few days and because “he is only three”, would have refused him the opportunity to make new friends, with whom he now speaks Italian and cries at night because he misses. For Nick, a much more sensitive and quiet kid than Lenny, facing that challenge gave him a new confidence to be on his
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“There is no doubt for me, that in the international environment of today and surely increasing global world of the future, educating my children by giving them the opportunity to experience cultures, learn languages and to respect the people of the world is the best way to provide for their future.” own. This was significant for Nick, who hasn’t spent a lot of time alone being the middle of three in three years. His first day of playschool in Canada, he walked right in the door with a smile on his face. And I was immensely proud of his new strength. The way I see it, my job as a mother is to prepare my children for their future. In other words, I must provide them with the skills necessary to succeed on their own as adults. This means challenging them and encouraging them to face those challenges with confidence and
excitement rather than fear what is new and different. Yes, I also want to protect them from injury and distress, but not at the cost of their personal development as individuals. There is no doubt for me, that in the international environment of today and surely increasing global world of the future, educating my children by giving them the opportunity to experience cultures, learn languages and to respect the people of the world is the best way to provide for their future. They will understand that there are different ways of life and that it’s important to
embrace differences and challenges in the world around them. In this way, they will cultivate strong relationships, have the ability to take care of themselves and significantly, to find work in a global economy. “Ich bin fertig” says two-year-old Joey to excuse himself from the table. “Molto bene!” Nick squeals at the ice cream shop. Hearing my children speak another language without even realizing it is awesome. And it makes it not only bearable but actually endearing when they’re singing, “Mi scappa la pipì, papa” with huge smiles and giggles.
Global Parenting 49
What in the
World
Did You Say? #1 Name: Lisa Niver Rajna Blog: We Said Go Travel
I ate a fried cricket in the Sunday night market in Chiang Mai. WHY? Because Tyler said it tasted like Lay’s potato chips. I was fine until the little legs touched my lips. TIP: it does NOT taste like potato chips!
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This Issue’s Question: What is the strangest thing you’ve ever eaten?
#2 Name: Annette White Blog: Bucket List Journey
While taking a Thai cooking class, we made a stop by Chiang Mai’s Somphet Market to purchase ingredients for our dishes. And while perusing the colorful aisles, something pastel pink caught my attention. A century egg, also known as a thousand year old egg, is an Asian tradition in which an egg is preserved for several weeks or months using a process that combines clay, ash, salt, quicklime and rice hulls. The egg smelled like ammonia and boasted a moldy green color, so there weren’t many takers when asked if anybody wanted to try it. Except me. And I don’t even like normal, fresh eggs. Surprisingly, and thankfully, the egg didn’t taste like it smelled. It tasted like a warm, slightly old hard-boiled egg with a gooey center. But, I made sure to make the most sour of faces when I bit into it just so everyone watching would be a bit more grossed out.
What in the World Did You Say? 51
#3
Name: Anthony Bianco Blog: The Travel Tart
Rujak Cingur in Indonesia - which is cow’s nose in satay sauce. This is a specialty dish from Surabaya, in East Java. Think crunchy and meaty at the same time flavoured with peanuts. The ingredients for the Rujak Cingur recipe are: sliced cow’s nose (including the cartilage), peanut sauce, shrimp paste, noodles, cucumber, tempeh (a local ingredient consisting of fermented soybean cake), pineapple, and immature mango. While the flavours aren’t too bad, I found it a bit hard to stomach due to it’s texture.
#5 Name: Karen Catchpole & Eric Mohl Blog: Trans-Americas Journey
In El Salvador it doesn’t take much to end up being honored guests. And one night we found ourselves at an al fresco party with glasses of whiskey and plates of perfectly grilled meat. And then a very special plate came out. We knew it was special because it was offered to us first. It took a few pretty hysterical charades-style explanations before we understood that it was grilled cow udder. By the eager looks on everyone’s faces we knew that this was a delicacy and quickly put a slice on our plates. It looked like thinly sliced foie gras and, honestly, it tasted like it too especially when enjoyed with warm, neat whiskey and new friends.
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#4 Name: Alex Berger Blog: Virtual Wayfarer
Where? The Belize Barrier Reef. Floating along on a three day two night sailing trip. How? The Captain had collected several fresh conch for lunch. As he cleaned them at the back of the boat, he kept slurping down what looked like a clear piece of spaghetti. He offered the third one to me. Always up for trying new local foods, I slurped it down. Preparation? Almost none. Two small incisions were made to the conch’s main muscle and then the special surprise was pulled free. Cleansed in salt water. Then eaten raw. What? I found out later that it was the conch’s verge. Unsure what a verge is? It’s the male conch’s reproductive organ. I’ve also eaten an assortment of other strange things - but I think the conch verge was the most peculiar and unexpected. Flavor wise would I do it again? You bet.
#6
Name: Cherina Hadley Blog: Quiet Wanderings
Icelandic puffins are not only the cutest birds in history but good lord, they are delicious! (Just close your eyes and think of England. Definitely don’t think about how cute they are – you’ll be fine, I promise!) Puffin is usually served smoked which helps to reduce the fishy taste of the meat, and the dish I tried was also cured in Guinness. I guess eating puffin is a little controversial but it is in fact a regular and sustainable part of the Icelandic diet. I spent about a lot of time (3 seconds) feeling guilty about the fact that I thought puffin was completely yum! A true Icelandic culinary experience is not for the faint of heart. Or herbivores. But I do highly recommend it!
What in the World Did You Say? 53
editorial
telemedicine Bring Your Doc With You and Say Goodbye to Waiting Rooms >> words by DR. FORREST BECK
orientation Depending on the amount of time you have dedicated to eating well, staying active, avoiding tobacco, and removing yourself from a negative environment, you may not give your proximity to a doctor’s office a second thought. But, there are many who do think about it – often. The ironic convergence of skyrocketing chronic disease in most parts of the world, and a steadily increasing lifespan, means dependence on doctors and managed care is only escalating. However, no longer must one be tethered as in
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days old. Pursuing a dream of full-time travel even while managing diabetes, cardiovascular disease, or menopause will become commonplace. Telemedicine is medical care or consulting delivered from a distance and is only new in name and possibilities. If you stop to think about it, with the advent of any form of communication, medical information was likely relayed to help another person or group, whether it was via telegraph, telephone, or now a webbased portal. However, it is the leaps and bounds taken in the last decade and the next five years that will deliver telemedicine to the masses.
Heck, you may already be conducting a crude version of telemedicine without knowing it. Perhaps you make a habit of partially disrobing on Skype to convince your cross-country relative that the mole on your chest is changing and growing hairs. Well why not allay your fear altogether, save Aunt Gloria some misery, and have a dermatologist examine you; and then get a treatment plan in place? One company called HealthSpot, allows you to walk up to a kiosk, swipe your credit card, step inside a module loaded with concealed medical devices (no colonoscopy yet) and a video screen. Looking for a warm hand on your shoulder during the examination process? Unfortunately, you’ll have to settle for your own or bring a friend. But as Star Trek-ish as it may sound, my bet is that you get more out of this encounter than you would having your doctor face-to-face. Why? Well, most of it boils down to focus. Physicians providing these services aren’t frantically running from room to room every five to ten minutes from eight in the morning until six at night. Another great benefit that some companies provide is the ability to easily bring in another doctor via video for an immediate second opinion.
“The ironic convergence of skyrocketing chronic disease in most parts of the world, and a steadily increasing lifespan, means dependence on doctors and managed care is only escalating." How long would that normally take in the real world? Remember, a lack of physical contact doesn’t mean this isn’t a highly personal experience. Those of you whom have spoken over video to a loved one know what I am talking about. The difference between listening to a voice over the telephone or watching your grandchild take steps before your eyes using Skype or Facetime is incomparable.
implementation So, what is the first step to take if you are interested in receiving care long-distance? Well, first begin with your existing relationships. More and more doctors are providing care in some form to those unable to meet in
Telemedicine 55
person. Retirees alone account for a large migratory population who prefer to have care managed by a primary physician, but may need advice during the months they are traveling. Although it is changing every year, you should be aware that your physician may be bound via malpractice insurance or state regulations and unable to offer telemedicine services. Or you may notice a change in the language used to describe such a situation and instead of a “patient”, you might be referred to as a “client” to whom the physician is able to offer a “consultation.” Certainly technology is becoming less of an excuse for these draconian laws to impair doctors and other providers from spreading their knowledge and skills each passing year.
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If you have already broached this subject with your doctor and she is unable to help, look at this as an opportunity to gain more control over your own health. For example, one non-profit organization that provides consumers the ability to order their own laboratory tests and have consultations with staff health advisors is The Life Extension Foundation. Worse case scenario is that you do nothing and maintain care with that doctor, but maybe on a less frequent timetable than you normally would. And if she is not on board then by all means ask her if she knows of any other specialists or doctors in her field that do telemedicine. Just as medical tourism continues to grow, so to do the offerings for all sorts of medical care as regulations and technology improve. Another huge plus for telemedicine is that it is great for competition in the medical marketplace. As it stands, care is largely dictated by geography. Most people look no more than a 250-mile radius for their medical needs, unless of course, they are in a more rural area. This is great for doctors that have a pseudo-monopoly in providing your care. But, why not consider finding a doctor that is willing to
“Many of the doctors and providers at the forefront of telemedicine are leaders in their respective fields." virtually come to you and might even have more experience and expertise. Many of the doctors and providers at the forefront of telemedicine are leaders in their respective fields. As an illustration, think of physicians who have performed surgeries in other countries via robots. Often the most in-demand people are trying to figure out ways to extend their reach, particularly if they are working with uncommon conditions. Sure, part of this may stem from delusions of grandeur, but who are we mortals to question demi-gods? Just kidding, of course. Once you have exhausted your existing medical connections, it is time to take to the Internet to help sort you out. Knowing exactly what you are looking for will help immensely. For example, if you are most comfortable with an Australian-based doctor, make sure you specify that when searching.
DIRECTORY Rather than try to create a comprehensive list here for you to wade through, I will simply list some organizations with the most widespread use. You can then use these as a stepping-stone to get to the most appropriate list of providers, whether in North America, the UK, Australia, or Europe. This is a list of English-speaking resources, and online research will easily lead to other options. >>
International Society for Telemedicine & eHealth: isfteh.org American Telemedicine Association: americantelemed.org Worldwide Telemedicine Directory (though hardly comprehensive, it will show many companies providing medical services in various parts of the world): telemedicine.com
Australasian Telehealth Society: aths.org.au Canada's Health Informatics Association: coachorg.com Telemedicine Society of India: tsi.org.in British Association of Telemedicine: telemedicine.org.uk
Telemedicine 57
“Each day, telemedicine and technology are stretching the boundaries of what can be done." The largest English speaking countries I have checked, all have telemedicine societies or organizations in place to promote their cause, so it generally isn’t difficult to find a company providing country-specific doctors. That being said, no list will be allinclusive, so if you know who you want or what service, be specific before casting your net. As part of this same search you will want to seek out a similar specialty as you already utilize. Let’s say you primarily use integrative or alternative medical care and want an Ayurvedic doctor. Well Jiva, based in India, has been pioneering the effort in telemedicine for more than a decade, having logged millions of patient encounters. Or maybe you want a Harvard trained dermatologist to consult with for your psoriasis that flares every now and then, or access to a naturopathic
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physician since they aren’t licensed to work in your state. Those doctors are out there seeing patients just like you every day. Hopefully, you don’t need further convincing that telemedicine could play an important adjunctive role in your medical care. There is no replacement for seeing someone in person when necessary for an annual exam or screening procedure. But, each day, telemedicine and technology are stretching the boundaries of what can be done. And for many, it is an option that allows some form of health care to be delivered period. If you need more convincing, I encourage you to watch one or all of these short videos demonstrating the power of telemedicine in multiple settings. You won’t just be trying to obtain medical care for yourself, you’ll be kicking down the door to help bring it to others.
media
Need some inspiration to hit the road, try a new adventure, or take a chance on something that could positively impact the rest of your life? Whether you are a print, movie, or music enthusiast; something here should help you along the way...
What would you do if you were not afraid? Changing Gears: A Family Odyssey to the End of the World is the true story of one woman asking herself that very question. What followed was a family journey of epic proportions – a journey of physical challenge, emotional endurance, teamwork, perseverance, and tremendous learning opportunities. Join the Vogel family as they cycle 17,285 miles from Alaska to Argentina. Note from Nicole: This is top of my list, already loaded on my Kindle for my flight to Abu Dhabi, UAE. CANNOT WAIT to read this incredible story!
Set on an island off the coast of New England in the summer of 1965, Moonrise Kingdom tells the story of two 12-year-olds who fall in love, make a secret pact, and run away together into the wilderness. As various authorities try to hunt them down the peaceful island community is turned upside down in every which way. Cast includes Bruce Willis, Edward Norton, Bill Murray, and Frances McDormand. It was nominated for an Oscar for best writing, original screenplay. Note from Nicole: Directed by Wes Anderson, it trumps all his other films. The children embody the adventurous soul within each of us, that can be subdued over time. Their fearlessness, confidence, and willfulness is so inspiring to watch.
iTunes Playlist: Inspired by MERGE Magazine - Issue #1 Note from Nicole: Chan Chan is of course from the photojournalism piece in this issue by Adrian Seah. Macklemore is such a talent and for anyone in a rut, this will move your butt. L’Appuntamento is an Italian song to go with Cori Beddoes article about living in northern Italy. Korby Lenker is an old friend who’s determination to live his dreams has always inspired me and Whiskey Before Breakfast give a nice ode to American folk music to go with my article on the Evolution of the American Dream. Enjoy!
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editorial
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<< death valley, ca / photo by marc smith
The Evolution of the American Dream In an era when many people feel the United States has lost its way, its charm, its spirit, and even its livelihood, some are looking for a revival or at least a reason not to denounce the nation after all. >> Words by nicole beck / founder & editor-in-chief of merge
When you talk about exploring the world, the United States is a major player in that equation.
Research indicates what is already evident to many â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Americans love America. Not necessarily in the nationalistic sense of unwavering support for government policies, but for the vast geographical diversity, the infamous cities, the national parks and monuments, and of course the icons like Steve Jobs, Disneyland, Marilyn Monroe, and Michael Jackson. A recent Gallup poll surprisingly revealed that of the top eight destinations Americans would choose for a vacation if money were no
object, half of them were inside the United States, indicating little interest in international travel; Hawaii, Alaska, California and Florida were top contenders for someone given unlimited funds and vacation time to enjoy. In fact, the number of Americans holding passports has only recently hit the 35% mark. And that is hugely impacted by a 2009 initiative that made passports mandatory to enter Canada, Mexico, and the Caribbean. This comes as a real shocker for anyone who loves to travel and thinks of that little blue book as a golden ticket to view the world at large.
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Worldwide, what are the top travel destinations? According to the UNWTO (United Nations World Tourism Organization), of the over 1 billion international travelers in 2012, 51% went to Europe, 22% to Asia/ Pacific and only 16% went to the Americas. An additional 5-6 billion people are estimated to travel in their home countries each year.
What are Americans’ top travel destinations? A recent Gallup poll revealed that Americans do enjoy the fruits of their own diverse country. If given vacation time and unlimited budgets, 4 of the 8 top destinations are inside the United States.
1. Hawaii 2. Australia 3. Italy 4. Europe
5. Alaska 6. Ireland 7. California 8. Florida
Source: Marketplace Morning Report for Thursday January 10, 2013. Interview with Frank Newport, Editor-in-Chief at Gallup.
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Yet the worldwide traveling populations do not share the love affair, with only 16% of the over 1billion international travelers last year choosing the Americas as a whole as their destination of choice. There are so many reports and speculations as to why Americans want to stay at home. Some say we have a hard time leaving our comfort zone, or that we have a superiority complex. Some say we are scared that the rest of the world hates us. Most of the reasons are fearbased generalities that don’t apply to everyone, but this poll makes it clear that the issue is not necessarily financially driven. For full-time travelers who love diversity, the United States has a lot to offer. For starters, the U.S. is enormous, ranking 3rd in land size. This vast footprint yields incredible cultural, geographical, and climactic diversity. A little something for everyone if you will, which is one reason it’s so appealing for travel. Add in the benefit of it being a single country without the need for different travel documents every few hundred miles and it can make for a great road trip – one of the legendary American vacations.
>> boondocking in quartzsite, arizona / photo by nina fussing
While many nomads are exploring SE Asia or Central America, a few I wish to highlight are stateside and on the journey of a lifetime. Visiting deserts, rainforest, everglades, mountains, national monuments, and museums, they traverse a country that while very young, has a lot to offer the world. Nina Fussing and Paul Novell are two of those people. Nina being Danish, but growing up throughout Asia, and Paul hailing from Cuba, their interest in travel has created a
formidable force. They had worked in the United States for years but had also jumped at opportunities to live and work in international destinations like Hong Kong and Belgium. But in early 2010 they left their professional jobs, bought a 40foot motor home, and have been extensively traveling within the US for the past three years. You can view their detailed maps from the past years along with recommendations for where to stay on their very active blog Wheeling It. The Evolution of the American Dream 63
With their obvious comfort in foreign countries and their ability to be anywhere in the world, I was curious why they continue in the U.S. Nina explained: “I’ve always been interested in coming to the US ever since I saw my first episode of Baywatch as a kid LOL. Even without the red swimsuits, I’d seen postcards of some of the national parks and was intrigued with the space and nature in this country. So, as a student I set out to make my way over here and try to see what it was like. My first impressions were everything is “so big” – massive houses, large cars, piles of food. But that same sentiment runs true for the wildlife and nature too, and it was this last item that got me hooked. Nowhere I’ve been (except perhaps Australia) has as much wide-open space as the US. It’s simply amazing how much of this country is still relatively untouched, and there’s so
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much variation and opportunity to see it. You can go from the high mountains of Colorado to the deserts of Arizona, the red rocks of Utah, the old forests of the Smoky Mountains, the swamps of Louisiana to the beaches of Florida – all different, all entirely unique. Together we’ve lived many places, and we’ve loved parts of all of them, but the nature and open space is what keeps us coming back to the US.”
<< eastern sierra nevada mountains in california / photo by nina fussing
"It’s simply amazing how much of this country is still relatively untouched, and there’s so much variation and opportunity to see it.” For Susan Shain, a 26 year-old college graduate, U.S. citizen, and world traveler, the U.S. holds a special place in her heart. Despite her regular globetrotting, she has never found a place where she felt as comfortable as she does at “home” – and it is a home she knows well. She has lived in eight states and traveled to an additional thirty-four. Last year she toured both Japan and Israel, home to her ancestors. “Those trips made me feel American because I AM American. I describe almost everything as ‘awesome,’ I love country music, I smile a LOT, and I cry when I hear a beautiful rendition of the national anthem. The songs and cultural cues of Japan and Israel were as foreign to me as any other country I’ve traveled to.
I thoroughly enjoyed my experiences, but I never felt like I was ‘home.’ Though my blood may flow from those places, my brain and my heart do not. I’m an American girl, through and through.” Susan encourages worldwide travel via volunteer or cultural work exchanges on her blog Travel Junkette. She has been traveling and working seasonal jobs all over the world since 2008 and has lots of advice to provide those interested in this method of travel. She just returned to Ketchikan, Alaska for her third summer of seasonal employment there, after spending months working in Nicaragua.
“
Those trips made me feel American because I AM American. I describe almost everything as ‘awesome,’ I love country music, I smile a LOT, and I cry when I hear a beautiful rendition of the national anthem.”
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<< alabama hills, california / photo by nina fussing
Another dynamic traveling pair who blog under the name Jets Like Taxis, have just launched a special tour of the States. Ryan and Angela are currently on their “Fabric of America” tour with stops in many cities across the US. This is a highly organized event with specific intentions of reevaluating the so-called “American Dream.” Both are U.S. citizens, originally from Chicago, but left the U.S. in 2011 for international destinations. Growing up in the States and leaving friends and family there, they 66
are disappointed to think about the country they have left behind. They hope to encourage a more positive attitude by revealing some of the current small business owners across the country with big ideas, a strong drive to succeed, and hopefully the profits to make it all worth it. “A well-known blogger posted about our trip on Facebook, and asked his fans if they thought the American Dream still exists. All I saw in the answers was cynicism, negativity, snark, and a basic blow-off of the possibility of an actual dream. It made
>> SMOKY MOUNTAINS, TENNESSEE / photo by nina fussing
me sad and a bit angry. The state of the U.S. and people’s level of trust in their country has to be at an all-time low. No one has confidence in anything anymore. It’s so bad that people don’t even think there’s an opportunity for someone to live their dream in this day and age. And frankly, that’s sad.” As a result, Jets Like Taxis are on a mission to find people who are giving it their all and reaping the rewards in a country known for its countless self-made stories of grit and determination.
Together, with their dog Louis who also accompanies them abroad, they will travel approximately 6,000 miles by car in about three months time in an enormous loop covering northern, western, southern, and midwestern states. They will be reporting their findings on their blog as they go. “The idea of the trip is to explore the ‘American Dream.’ Many folks think it doesn’t exist anymore. It’s not that the dream no longer exists. It’s that the dream has evolved. We’d like to explore the back roads of America, The Evolution of the American Dream 67
"It’s not that the American dream no longer exists. It’s that the dream has evolved." and talk to and spend time with people who are making the dream work for them. We want to spotlight these people and show that it does indeed exist and is possible.” Before you discount this journey as a glorified road-trip, you should realize that they have each
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traveled all over the U.S. in years past, so an excuse for a road trip isn’t in the cards or the budget. This is serious work, and plotting a similar trip in Europe would be the equivalent mileage of visiting the following landmark cities in Europe all by car:
evolution of the american dream Evolution is a slow process and for the most part, society still dictates the traditional progression in the United States. But the digital nomads of today see the formerly desirable ideas of home ownership and a “successful” career as tethers that prevent them from achieving their true dreams of travel and cultural immersion. For those like us, a twoweek vacation is simply not enough time to truly experience the region of Southeast Asia or the country of Argentina, just as it is not enough time to explore the entire United States. We do not dream of wall-to-wall carpeting or professional landscaping. We dream of adventure, and it comes in many forms. This oftentimes stifling expectation to conform to traditional American ideals, coupled with disdain for government policies of one kind or another, has many full-time travelers from the U.S. clamoring for distant lands. But many of the unappealing traits of the U.S. that push wouldbe expats to foreign lands can be marginalized with little effort.
For libertarians like Nina and Paul, the U.S. is what you make of it. Instead of focusing on negative aspects of U.S. policy, inflation, or taxation, they make regular use of public lands to live rent, utility, and property tax free in their motor home. This is a great way to recoup tax payments that can seem so irritating, not to mention having everchanging million-dollar views! “We all pay taxes but very few get to reap or see the benefits of those taxes in a really direct way. Camping for free on public land and using those resources is such a tangible reward both visually and financially.”
"We all pay taxes but very few get to reap or see the benefits of those taxes in a really direct way. Camping for free on public land and using those resources is such a tangible reward both visually and financially.” The Evolution of the American Dream 69
>> in 1906 president roosevelt proclaimed devil’s tower in wyoming as the 1st national monument / photo by andrew mcgarry
On March 25th, 2013, U.S. president, Barack Obama designated 5 new national monuments in the United States. The states of Ohio, Delaware, Maryland, Washington, and New Mexico are each recipients of a title based on conditions ofthe 1906 Antiquities Act proclaiming that “historic landmarks, historic and prehistoric structures, and other objects of historic or scientific interest” could be protected directly by the president. This addition brings the total to 108 National Monuments across the country.
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Susan Shain says that her frequent travels tend to help her appreciate the U.S. whether for its diversity or conveniences. She points out that to appreciate diversity, you must not only accept the good and agreeable, but also the bad and the irritating. “You’ll see hundreds of different ethnicities and languages without ever leaving our borders. You can find food from anywhere, a person of any racial mixture, all different types of landscapes, and a club with any kind of music. It’s just the way it is here, and it rocks. I truly feel like you have the freedom to be who you want to be, and to choose your path in life. Traveling makes you appreciate all of the conveniences that the U.S. provides. Hot showers, cable television, air conditioning, fast Internet, Taco Bell -- it’s all here. And, the fact that the majority of my family and friends live stateside is a huge factor.” Of course, I’ve found plenty of misconceptions about the U.S. There’s often a lot of truth to what people think, however, and I don’t necessarily think it’s a bad thing. Yes, we shop at Wal-Mart, yes, we have obesity problems, and yes, we love our guns.
“Our country is huge, and you can’t say one thing that applies to all of us. Every country has problems; ours are just in the spotlight.” But our country is huge, and you can’t say one thing that applies to all of us. Every country has problems; ours are just in the spotlight.” In the end, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If you seek out the American ideals you wish for, you will likely find them. If you surround yourself with the characteristics that you think make the United States so unique, then you will feel the charm and spirit some think is missing. If you patronize small businesses, local farmers, artisans, and the like, you will see a revival in the entrepreneurial success that the States are known for. With the U.S. Independence Day approaching, I am taken with thinking about personal independence rather than that of the country from which I hail. Finding the “freedoms
in everyday life” as Nina Fussing says. For those just starting into the world of full-time travel, the U.S. is a great opportunity and a gentle entry into the lifestyle. Two years ago, this July 4th, my family and I moved into our motor home. It wasn’t a timed event; it just corresponded to the closing date on the RV and when a new tenant could assume our lease. I remember being exhausted and anxious over the enormous decision we were making, closing our business and selling all our belongings. But that evening, we parked where we could see the local fireworks over the Strait of Juan de Fuca in Port Townsend, WA. The display was our own private celebration for the choice we had made and the adventure we embarked upon. The Evolution of the American Dream 71
interview
RV GUESTS
<< photo courtesy of rv guests
An interview with Helen Pollock of RV Guests
>> questions by nicole beck / founder & editor-in-chief of merge
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Hi Helen, thanks for spending some time with me today so I can find out more about RV Guests. Tell me a little about your business. Thanks for inviting me Nicole, as you know RV Guests is a brand new club and I’m excited to get the word out about it. We offer a membership to a variety of venues in the Northwest where people traveling in an RV can stay overnight at no charge. These venues are the real treat of the membership, because you are able to park at some beautiful vineyards, amazing farms, great museums, and even some festivals while contributing to the local economy by supporting these businesses.
As a seasoned RV’er myself, I am aware of the big clubs like “Good Sam” and “AAA” that you are really expected to be a part of because of the discounts and affiliations. Personally, it is rare that I can take advantage of a discounted stay using these memberships because of the type of slow travel I do. How is this different? Why is this different? While Good Sam and AAA are great membership resources to have to save money and plan vacations,
they are, as you said the “big names.” My club, RV Guests is an organization meant to support local businesses that don’t specifically target RV’ers, but have a lot to offer them. For starters, the club membership is very inexpensive and in most cases, one night of use will cover the cost of the $29 membership for an entire year. Secondly, these overnight opportunities offer a completely different experience from an RV park. Depending on your interests, you can walk out your door to a tasting room at a local vineyard, a brewery, an alpaca farm, or visit a museum. Perhaps even pick you own veggies for dinner at a u-pick farm. You will instantly meet local business owners who are willing to share their experiences with you. This type of travel enriches your experience, builds community, and helps local economies. Who knows, maybe four months later you will order a case of wine from a place you visited to give as holiday gifts with a personal story!
How did this idea evolve into a business? My husband and I love to travel in our motor home. We generally take off in June of each year and return
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"This type of travel enriches your experience, builds community, and helps local economies.â&#x20AC;? sometime in October. We travel from Canada to California and east to the Rocky Mountains, attending Celtic music festivals along the way. My husband Rob was born into the bag piping tradition and we are very active in that community. We run a recording studio and promote the albums we have helped record on our tours each summer. We meet so many interesting people on our journeys, and we love to explore the local scene in the small towns that pepper the Northwest. This idea came naturally to us as something we would enjoy doing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; meeting farmers, viticulturists, and learning about local history. In many parts of Europe, this is a recognized and even the preferred method to explore via RV.
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Do you see full-time travel in your future? It sounds so interesting. For now, we are content with our halfyear explorations. We have favorite places we get excited to return to each year, but we also have two young grandchildren that we love to spend time with. We have considered moving our physical home into central Oregon, from Portland for more sunshine, but we have also considered moving north into Canada where Rob is from.
So how is business at RV Guests? We just got up and running in December which is the off-season for RV travelers in the Northwest. I wanted to be completely ready for the spring and summer crowds. Winter in the Pacific NW can be so dreary that when the sun starts to shine people go nuts and hit the road for short trips as soon as they get the chance! We have had a lot of members join already and we currently have 39 host locations available for stays and we are adding more each month.
What are you most excited to offer your members? I love the fact that we have partnered with some incredible events throughout the Pacific NW. So
many RV owners use their vehicles to go to festivals and events. With our membership, they can now be at the front of the action AND have free accommodations while they are there. These partnerships are something I am very proud of, since RV accommodations are usually sold out during festival events. This gives our members an extra edge and oftentimes even a second chance to attend.
Yes, I noticed that members would have access to overnight at the Leavenworth Wine Walk, the Sequim Lavender Farm Faire, and the Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival – all in my former backyard in Washington State. Fabulous events to attend during parts of the year that feature gorgeous weather in some of the most scenic areas of the Pacific Northwest. Have you had the opportunity to stay in some of the venues yourself? We have stayed with club hosts a few times and absolutely loved it! At one winery in Washington we had such a wonderful time in their tasting room, learning about them. They were selling used books to raise money for the community, so we picked out a couple books, pulled out the grill
right near the vineyards and took it all in. Pretty soon, the owner came riding around on his tractor. Seeing the intimate details on a working farm is a special experience.
The owners must enjoy having visitors that can see all the hard work that goes into producing before the end product hits the shelves in a clean and sterile marketplace. I think so. Competition can be fierce these days and wineries are always looking for a way to get their name out and to make their products known. So when a tourist can come and stay right on their farm, take home some wine, and gain lasting memories to share wherever they go, it’s a winwin for all.
Thanks for sharing this information with us. I look forward to staying with some of your hosts in the future. For more information, our readers can look at your website and purchase a membership at www.RVGuests.com. Thank you Nicole, and readers should feel free to contact me as well. I’ll see you on the road!
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/// LOCATION Maramureş is a region of Northern Romania. » MAP COURTESY OF Andrei Nacu
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travel log
Maramureş a fairytale adventure
I’ve seen it dressed in white and changing its colors into that almost unbelievably pure and wild green… I’ve smelt the firewood and the freshly laid hay… I’ve tasted the snowflakes and the drops of the summer rain… » Words by Olivia-Petra Coman / Photos by Marcel Băncilă
When one decides to travel through this northern region of Romania, bordering Ukraine, one will have to be prepared for heavy snow and low temperatures in winter, for the cool air of the mornings and evenings in late spring, and for an almost suffocating heat in summer. We took all of these precautions but we knew deep down that a journey through Maramureş would mean a shift to a more poetic and ancient feel of places, traditions, and people. …that one look around would suffice to discover pretty red-cheeked children
running across rolling hills, women still wearing their traditional costumes on Sundays, and a sense of complete peacefulness at holidays. As these are only glimpses of this region’s flow of life, your senses might urge you to discover more as did mine. We started out by getting to know the typical village of Maramureş. Perched on a hill on the outskirts of Sighetu Marmaţiei, there it was – the Village Museum. Exploring it was synonymous with taking a breath of fresh air and – at the same time – Maramureşs - A Fairytale Adventure
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the first steps towards typical encounters of the region. The museum hosts over 30 households, all wooden, some of them fully furnished with the original pieces. We couldn’t resist peeking inside, and we were able to see the way in which these households were organized – the spaces designed for sleeping, for cooking, or for keeping animals and tools. The large courtyards can be a delight at the beginning of June, when the grass is high and one can smell the wild flowers around. This scent is as accurate as it probably was at the 78
beginning of the 17th century – the oldest house exhibited here actually dates back to this period. The trail up the hill guided us along shadoofs, widely used by the inhabitants of the region, as well as along the high, sturdy, and richly decorated Maramureş wooden gates. A Maramureş wooden church was waiting for us at the top of the hill, being the oldest exhibit in this museum, as it dates back to the 15th century. It was a perfect occasion to take in the panorama by simply standing still for a few moments. This stillness is a big part of the Maramureş
“It was a perfect occasion to take in the panorama by simply standing still for a few moments.”
lifestyle; being able to experience it actually means understanding a way of life that has been passed on from one generation to the next. And these people’s take on life is as surprising as their take on death. The best place for us to experience that was Săpânţa, a small yet cozy village close to the Ukrainian border. What makes the inhabitants of Maramureş so special in the end? Well, for starters, they even have a cemetery making a fool of… death. Yes, death. Stepping into the Merry Cemetery made it clear. Maramureşs - A Fairytale Adventure
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This cemetary has mainly started as the creation of sculptor Stan Ioan Pătraş, whose legacy endured after his death, with artists who continued his beautiful work, using the same vibrant blue – the ‘Săpânţa blue’, together with other vivid colors to illustrate the resilience of the miracle of life before the big end. There are important scenes from the lives of those buried here painted on over 800 tombstones. And if this isn’t impressive enough, there are epitaphs underneath each painting summarizing the life of the deceased or depicting the circumstances of the passing, with traditional Romanian motifs found in each epitaph. It is said that this Maramureş take on death resembles the Dacian one, because the ancestors of the Romanian people celebrated the passing as a moment of joy and anticipation for a better life. It is a known fact that the strong views of Romanians on life and death are intertwined with an indestructible bond to nature, which is also specific to the natives of Maramureş. Already getting to grips with the Maramureş village life, we were seized by the craving to connect with nature more, so we thought of going on a Mocăniţa (a narrow gauge railway) ride. These railways were built to transport cargo (logs) – some of them in the era of the 80
“We came to understand that the locals’ zest for life and love for nature are fueled by a strong connection to the spiritual world.”
Austro-Hungarian Empire – but are now mainly designed to serve tourists. The route started in the small train station of Vişeu de Sus; from here, it was as if we were transported back in time through some unbelievably wild scenery, in an area where there is no other access except for these lovely steam trains. Despite our gloomy morning, we were amazed by the dense forests inhabited by brown bears and deer and by the fast waters lead the way.
We were lucky enough to take this ride on a holiday and our tickets came as packages of traditional food, drinks, and dances – a feast for our taste buds and eyes! We came to understand that the locals’ zest for life and love for nature are fueled by a strong connection to the spiritual world. Spirituality is of utmost importance to the people of Maramureş and the many wooden churches situated all over this region
stand as evidence to this end. There are many special churches and they are all beautiful in their own way, but the one in Ieud is exquisite. We arrived on a calm summer evening and were greeted by the smell of handmade soap and by the smiles on the villagers’ faces. The hill on which the church stands has in itself a feel of ‘solemn’, which turns into humbleness before the impressive frescoes dating back to the second half of the 14th century. Maramureşs - A Fairytale Adventure
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We decided to climb the old and squeaky wooden stairs leading to the church’s tower and the view revealed the surrounding hills framing the village – a small Eden, undisturbed and dateless! This place breathes history through all of its pores, as we were standing in the exact spot where the first document written in Romanian – ‘The Ieud Codex’ (1391) – was found. I wondered – doesn’t this add a feeling of ‘majesty’ to it all? It is more than that: the mystery of the old forests and valleys turned approachable, the secrets of the unspoilt villages revealed, and the spiritual connection turned human.
Myths & legends turned real, time standing still amidst a fairyland, with dragons, mighty warriors, and spells possibly lurking around every corner.
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Ardă-te focu taxiu / Ce-ai venit de la Sibiu / Cât e ţara românească / N-a fost loc ca să oprească / Numa lângă casa noastă / Pe mine să mă loiască / Părinţii rău să-i năcăjască / De nimic nu-i aşa dor mare / Ca cuconu când îţi moare / Nici nu este supărare ca cucoana când îţi moare / Părinţii cât or trăi / Ei pe mine m-or jăli.
Curse be on you, taxi / Coming from Sibiu / Was there no other way for you to stop / Than right beside our doorstop / Hitting me so hard / And leaving my Mom and Dad scarred / For life, as nothing is as heartbreaking / As your own child’s burying / They will mourn me every single day / For as long as they’re here on this Earth to stay.
Maramureşs - A Fairytale Adventure
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travel log
DOMINO PLAYERS by a sidestreet IN TRINIDAD, CUBA » Words & photos by Adrian Seah
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Domino Players by a Side Street 85
The old cobbled street was proving a bit of a challenge in the dim light, the scattered street lamps casting strange shadows on the peeling colonial era buildings lining either side of the road.
Our footsteps were unsure and the uneven ground, still slightly slick with the brief rain that had fallen in the evening, was slippery, hiding
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puddles of water in the darkness. The sounds of salsa music wafted through the warm, humid night; somewhere round the corner there must have been a bar with a live band and I could imagine mojitos being downed by the gallon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; sweaty, writhing bodies dancing away on a makeshift dance floor. It was Friday night after all.
/// LOCATION
trinidad is a town in the province of Sancti Spíritus in central Cuba. » Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
Domino Players by a Side Street
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Clearly it was too hot indoors, and life is lived out in the streets in Cuba anyway.â&#x20AC;? 88
Just ahead, a group of men huddled round a table, with an occasional excited exclamation or a disappointed groan. They were in the middle of a game of dominos, played on a small wooden table set out by the side of the road. Clearly it was too hot indoors, and life is lived out in the streets in Cuba anyway. The man in the cowboy hat, undoubtedly the alpha male of the group, was obviously playing a bad hand and not liking how the game was going.
Taking deep puffs of his cigarette, he looked with a certain amount of disdain at his tiles. He noticed us approaching; our ungainly hobbling on the cobbles must have marked us out as out-oftowners. “¡Ven Ven!” (Come! Come!) he motioned us to his seat at the table. Perhaps it was an act of friendship, or perhaps it allowed him a graceful exit from certain defeat, or possibly a combination of both. In any case, an invitation had been extended to join
our newfound amigos in their game of dominos. Round the corner, the music had changed to a different beat, the band playing a cover of ‘Chan Chan’ by the Buena Vista Social Club. The vocals didn’t quite have the exuberance and soul of Ibrahim Ferrer, but it was a decent attempt nonetheless.
In the old cobbled streets of Trinidad, it was just another Friday night.
Domino Players by a Side Street
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