Food&Drink GOOD TIMES
MAGAZINE 2019
DAVID KINCH COMES HOME Michelin-starred restaurateur talks about opening Mentone in Aptos
SANTA CRUZ:THE BREAKFAST TOUR
S A N TA C R U Z .C O M GOODTIMES.SC
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Jana Marcus
CONTENTS ALL YOU NEED IS HUB THE HANGAR SPACE COULD BRING A LOT MORE THAN JUST BEER TO WATSONVILLE P12
EVERYBODY FREEZE SEEING STARS DAVID KINCH BRINGS HIS MICHELIN-STARRED BRAND TO APTOS WITH MENTONE
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THE LATEST TWIST IN SANTA CRUZ’S ICE CREAM OBSESSION P17
WAKEY WAKEY, EGGS AND BAKEY WHY SANTA CRUZ LOVES ITS BREAKFASTS P19
WE ARE WHAT WE JAR TABITHA STROUP BRINGS SOCIAL AWARENESS TO HER LATEST PROJECT P22
WHEN DO WE EAT?
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A CALENDAR OF SANTA CRUZ COUNTY FOOD AND DRINK EVENTS P27
STAFF
PUTTIN’ ON THE SPRITZ
WHAT’S ALL THIS ABOUT SPRITZERS, THEN?
Debra Whizin
PUBLISHER
Dan Pulcrano EDITOR
Lauren Hepler
CONTRIBUTORS
ACCOUNTING
MANAGING EDITOR
O
ur dining scene has a bit of a chip on its shoulder—and not the savory, delicious kind. Despite all the culinary talent here over the years, Santa Cruz County has never really been taken seriously as a dining destination. But sometimes all it takes to change conventional wisdom—and attract attention to all of the interesting other things that are happening here—is one high-profile addition to the foodie landscape. Some like … a three-star Michelin restaurateur moving into the neighborhood? Exactly. That’s why David Kinch’s latest endeavor Mentone is the most anticipated opening in this area in a long time. But what exactly does the Manresa mastermind have planned for us? Find out in Christina Waters’ interview in this issue. And while you’re at it, check out Georgia Johnson’s profile of the Dueck brothers, who are trying to bring a similar kind of transformation to Watsonville’s scene with the Hangar. Can it be the kind of culinary hub that South County has been lacking? While we’re on the subject of big changes, Tabitha Stroup—who we’ve written about in the past as the culinary innovator who turned her small, artisan Friend in Cheeses Jam Company into a national business—is doing something truly different with her newest company, and trying to change the world in the process. You’ll find all that, plus breakfast, the spritzer trend and more in this issue. Let’s dive in! STEVE PALOPOLI | EDITOR
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ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
Lisa Buckley Sue Lamothe Ilana Rauch Packer Tiffani Petrov
Steve Palopoli
EDITOR’S NOTE
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Jules Holdsworth Georgia Johnson Christina Waters ART DIRECTOR
Tabi Zarrinnaal DESIGNERS
Mackenzie Alameda Jody Harmon
Sarah Puckett CIRCULATION MANAGER
Shannen Craig OFFICE MANAGER
Kari Mansfeld
VICE PRESIDENT
Lee May
A Good Times publication. Cover photo of David Kinch by Jana Marcus. Cover design by Tabi Zarrinnaal.
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HEADED SOUTH David Kinch’s new restaurant Mentone in Aptos will incorporate culinary influences from Italy and the South of France. PHOTO: JANA MARCUS
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Aptos Riviera on the David Kinch on new restaurant Mentone
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his area’s most anticipated restaurant opening of the year is about to launch in Santa Cruz County. Aptos Village is the home of chef David Kinch’s latest culinary adventure, Mentone (pronounced “men-tawn-eh.”). The chef and creator of three-star Michelin restaurant Manresa, Kinch has lived in Santa Cruz for the past 22 years. And while his heart belongs to the Central Coast, right now his mind is fixated on the French/ Italian Riviera and the town of Menton, where Mirazur has just captured its third Michelin star. It’s one of Kinch’s favorite dining spots, so to celebrate the honor, he’ll join Mirazur chef Mauro Colagreco for some culinary creativity. “We’ll be cooking on the beach for 120 lucky people,” Kinch says with a grin. So smitten is Kinch with this stretch of cinematic Riviera that he has named his new Aptos restaurant after Menton. “It’s the Italian version of the French town’s name,” he explains. This region was part of the Republic of Genoa right up until 1860, when it became part of France. Hence the co-mingled cuisines from Italy and the south of France at the new restaurant— Mediterranean coastal cuisine spun through Kinch’s own California vision.
THE INSPIRATION “It reminds me of our stretch of coastline,” Kinch says of the azure
European coast discovered while visiting friends on culinary visits and cooking odysseys. Anyone who’s visited the South of France, or the Ligurian coast between Nice and Genoa, can understand exactly why he would be taken by the bold, sun-drenched flavors of the region. After all, this is the place that gave us focaccia, salame and pesto. Far from the concept-intensive world of Manresa, this Kinch eatery will be casual enough to highlight pizza— fueled by Kinch’s inventiveness and the freshly milled flour from Manresa Bread, the bakery branch of Manresa powered by superstar baker Avery Ruzick.
THE PLACE Why Aptos? “My business partner Andrew Burnham found this opportunity,” Kinch says. “And he urged me to buy the building.” The chef has been steadily building his brand since he opened Manresa in Los Gatos in 2002, and the restaurant earned its first two Michelin stars in 2007 (it was upgraded to three in 2016). Kinch had been looking for a new restaurant space in downtown Santa Cruz for a few years. Bywater, the more casual, New Orleans-inspired restaurant he opened in 2016, is also located in Los Gatos. “I wanted to be on this side of the hill,” Kinch says. “I like expanding our reach. I think we can fill a need.” He also looks forward to a minimal commute. “Right now, I’m
BY CHRISTINA WATERS waiting to build—just waiting for the final signing,” Kinch says. “We spent most of last year working on this. They’ve built the shell. It just needs finishing inside.” The food entrepreneur says the end result “will evoke the area we were inspired by, as well as our own Central Coast.”
THE SETUP Yes, there will be a full bar, “with a lot of amaros and Italian wines,” he says. The chef at Mentone will be Matt Bowden, currently Executive Sous Chef at Manresa. “If I’m in town, I’ll be in the kitchen, too,” says Kinch, happy finessing the pizzas. “We’re going to be doing five pies using a Mugnaini wood-fired oven. We have our own mill, and can now mill our own grains.” The flavor and freshness, he contends, cannot be rivaled. “I’m developing pastas—we’ll make lots of pastas,” he says. “It’s going to be simple. It’s going to be food inspired by the region.” Authentic, yes, “but with my own spin.” "We’re having a lot of fun working on this,” he says. “Andrew Burnham is a great business partner. He’s my partner at the bakery, and with the restaurants. Andrew’s business expertise allows me to work the food side.”
THE MENU Kinch’s concepts can be subtle, and tend to defy categorization. But the seasons and the geographical setting are invariably folded into his menus. He shows me a
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glamorous shot of actors Catherine Deneuve and Marcello Mastroianni at the height of their cinematic fame and beauty. “That’s on our brand,” he says with obvious pleasure. Two film stars, one French, one Italian. That’s the sizzle Kinch wants for Mentone, accessible and appealing. There will be pesto, farinata, ratatouille, pizza, and, “We’re developing our own focaccia,” Kinch says. The new spot will be kid-friendly, he adds, “like a trattoria.” Dinneronly at first, six nights a week, with perhaps a brunch on Saturday and Sunday. “We’ll have take out,” he promises. Kinch fans can look forward to “a lot of custom salames, like culatello, coppa,” specialty charcuterie that will be made for Kinch in the Bay Area. “And a wine list that harmonizes with the food. It’ll be a short wine list, 30 reds and 30 whites, Provençal and Ligurian wines. Some Sicilian whites, Dolcetto d’Alba, a Côtes Ventoux, and of course Bandol.” Cioppino? “Definitely. But Central Coast style,” he says. “We’ll make it with Dungeness crab and abalone from Monterey.” Kinch is elbow-deep in tinkering and experimenting with pastas for the Mentone menu. “I’ve perfected cacio et pepe,” he says with an impish grin. “And I’m working on pesto. Pesto is one of the greatest sauces.” Kinch wants the best and freshest produce from local growers for Mentone. “We’re working with several organic growers now,” says the chef, who famously had biodynamic specialties grown exclusively for his restaurant. He’s especially excited about using custom-grown Genovese basil. The magic chemistry of garlic, olive oil, pine nuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and basil is one of Italy’s greatest gifts to cuisine. “Our trenette al pesto [made with three different varieties of basil] will have a California spin,” says Kinch. And then he reveals the secret California ingredient in his pesto, which I will not divulge.
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THE STAR Anthony Bourdain once described Kinch’s cooking as “wildly creative … beautifully presented and surprisingly minimalist—very, very tasty.” Kinch keeps living up to that assessment. After learning everything he could in top kitchens in New York, San Francisco and Europe, Kinch opened a small, Catalan-inspired dining room in Saratoga in 1995 called Sent Sovi, which is where I first tasted his cooking. Then came Manresa, where the Michelin stars began to accumulate, as did international culinary guest chef gigs and James Beard awards, including Best Chef: Pacific in 2010. Born in Louisiana, Kinch opened Bywater as a spicy love letter to the Cajun and Creole foods of his New Orleans roots. But now his imagination has zeroed in on the Mediterranean climate of his current home. Fit and tanned, drinking iced green tea at the Delmarette, Kinch has just returned from two weeks of cooking and eating in Toulouse, Marseilles, Genoa, and the Dolomites. “I’m doing less and less guest chef gigs,” he insists, suddenly looking reflective. “I’m getting near the end of expansion, and I don’t know what I might do next. There’s still a lot of French bistro cooking I’d like to do. But I tend to take baby steps,” he admits. “I like to get everything lined up and worked out in advance.” There are a lot of reasons Kinch enjoys living here. “It’s close to the ocean, it’s got the university and all the activity that goes with that,” he says. “I’ve lived in Manhattan and in San Francisco. I don’t want a big city anymore. I need a separation between my personal and professional life.” Food is the focus of his life, and it always was. “I fell into that rabbit hole early on, and pretty hard. I’m always curious. And I’m not afraid to learn.” But Kinch says he needs to recharge a few times a year. “Especially as I get older,” says the 58-year-old chef. “For me, it’s always
a beach. I relax, surf, sleep a lot, have a rum drink at two in the afternoon. It helps to reorganize my priorities. I try to do that twice a year.” His favorite thing to do is having great restaurant meal. “Fine dining— that’s where the ideas are,” he says. What he loves is not so much particular dishes, but “experiencing the whole place, the chef’s vision.” Kinch says he tries not to travel during the summers so he can stay home in Santa Cruz. “I’ve got the beach, I cook at home. Simple picnic foods—pastas, tomato salads, roast chicken, very simple.” But right now, he’s not exactly kicking back. In addition to overseeing the finishing touches on Mentone, he’s just signed a second cookbook deal and currently spends the mornings working on recipes. “The manuscript is due in November, and then photography for the cookbook will start.” He suddenly remembers, “I’ve got a busy travel schedule in November.” On that note, Kinch zooms off on his powder blue Vespa looking every inch the seaside—Santa Cruz— Italian.
MENTONE Location: Aptos Village Size: 3,000 sq. feet; seating for 100 Chef de Cuisine: Matt Bowden, executive sous chef at Manresa Special features: Full bar; Italian and California wines; Mugnaini wood-fired pizza oven Cuisine: French/Italian/Coastal California—pasta, pizza, cioppino, focaccia, custom salames Ambience: Casual; family friendly Opening date: Late summer/early fall 2019 Other David Kinch projects: Look for the upcoming Mineta San Jose Airport installation of California Market by David Kinch—a dining, bakery, coffee and bar experience curated and designed by the James Beard Award-winning chef.
SERVING FOOD, WINE AND COCKTAILS Daily 11:30am to 10pm 'til 11pm Friday & Saturday
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Beer
Beyond Could the Hangar become Watsonvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Abbott Square? BY GEORGIA JOHNSON
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HANGERING AROUND Brothers Kevin (left) and Brian Dueck at the Hanger in Watsonville.
PHOTO: JULES HOLDSWORTH
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atsonville’s newest business hub has found its home in a 8,640-square-foot, World War II-era naval building on Aviation Way. The space harkens back to when the Watsonville Municipal Airport was a military base surrounded by four 160-square foot shipping containers, fire pits and picnic tables. It’s now known as the Hangar. The idea behind the Hangar bears some similarity to Santa Cruz’s Abbott Square Market, the food and drink hangout spot that opened two years ago in downtown and has since incorporated live music, monthly meetups and activities, quickly becoming a shared community space.
“We are going for something similar, but slightly different,” says co-owner and developer Kevin Dueck. “We want to have a retail component. We don’t want a ‘food court.’ We want a community hangout with other components besides food—like fitness and retail. And I think tenants and businesses want to see the space ‘happen’ before they commit.” The inaugural business to open in the Hangar is Beer Mule, a brewpub brainchild of Beer Thirty’s owners that opened in the spring and takes up the majority of the space. Opening night at Beer Mule was beyond what anyone expected, drawing upwards of 200 people— including some city councilmembers—to Watsonville’s newest and only taproom. “I’ve seen a lot of birthday parties there, the city had an event there, there are other organizations and groups going there,” says Dueck. “It’s becoming a destination and establishing itself as an area to host events. I know that will grow as time goes on.” Kevin and his brother Brian are behind the newly renovated hangar, and plan on leasing the rest of the space and other converted shipping containers to food, drink and retail businesses, including Mr. Z’s Crepes and Teas, Aloha Hola (a Hawaiian-Mexican grill fusion) and Zameen, a third outpost of the beloved meditteranan spot. Each is expected to open within the next few months. “We are still working with other tenants, a person who is going to do coffee and breakfast. We are just finalizing some details,” Dueck says. “We are also looking for tenants interested in offering ice cream, or fitness classes like yoga. We are talking to a few people, but nothing has landed just yet.” Dueck adds that there’s one container that will likely be dedicated to mimosas and sangria. “It’s an idea that will most likely happen, but we haven’t inked the deal yet,” he says. The Hangar was engineered by
Cianciarulo Construction, which the Dueck brothers partnered with for not only their project but also Cat and Cloud, Abbott Square Market, West End Tap and Kitchen, Humble Sea Brewery, and Discretion Brewery. A bike shop, dog grooming facility and hair salon are other ideas Dueck says could be possibilities for the Hangar. While the Dueck brothers don’t live in Watsonville, Kevin says they have a good sense of the community based on their Yogurtland franchise on Main Street that opened in 2012. He says they knew there was a need for more business in the community. “The feedback we have been getting through Beer Mule customers and employees is they are just really happy something like this space has come to Watsonville,” he says. “A lot of people say that they are excited to stay in their community and not have to travel. People will bike there because it’s close to a lot of neighborhoods—it’s more accessible than other places.” The Duecks signed a 35-year lease, so the spot isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. They say that opening a space like the Hangar has been a longtime dream. Watsonville celebrated 150 years as a city last year, and combined with longstanding businesses like Driscoll’s, Annieglass and Martinellis, the Hangar looks to usher in an era of new business and community involvement. “We have gotten a lot of gratitude from the community,” Dueck says. “They thank us and thank Beer Mule for investing in Watsonville and believing that the community will support that type of business. That’s been one of the biggest surprises— the gratitude and enjoyment from people living in the area.” Beer Mule is located in the Hangar at 45 Aviation Way, Watsonville. 254-9789.
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BITTER PASSION The spritzer trend comes to Santa Cruz BY CHRISTINA WATERS
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n Venice it's a “spritz,” in Rome it’s a Campari and soda. By whatever name, the Spritzer—think orange bitters and soda—is enjoying a big moment right now. In Santa Cruz, variations on a spritzer, using some version of an amaro (Italian bitters) such as Aperol or Suze, are finding local appeal. The most accessible version available on most cocktail menus is the Aperol Spritzer which involves the light, bright Italian bitters, Prosecco, and a splash of soda water. Tangy and refreshing, this vibrant orange drink is also beautiful to look at, especially topped with a slice of orange. Think of it as a lighter-alcohol Campari and soda with the addition of Prosecco. Of course, you can request Campari in your Spritzer, which will deepen the flavor as well as the alcohol. But serious cocktail explorers will want to wade into the deep end of the bitters pool, and that will invariably lead to the complex bitter-yet-sweet Fernet Branca, one of the world's great ancient brews involving a secret folk recipe (but you can bet it involves many herbs, roots—especially gentian—and orange peel). Or you could sample the truly strange Cynar, a pungent bitters made from artichoke, for an unforgettable spritzer. Italian bitters (amari is the plural) are the industry standard and top Santa Cruz saloons carry exotica from the sweetest amaro to most bitter—Aperol, Campari, Salers, Suze, Bruto Americano, and Fernet Branca. There are lots more, and they’re fun to explore. Lots of new amari are popping up as designer ingredients in cocktails, and many of them—like the new small-batch gins—appeal to California’s love of herb and spice-tinged liqueurs. Rhubarb, laurel, oregano, licorice, pepper, seaweed, eucalyptus, cardamom, and saffron are only a few of the flavor notes that designer amari and bitters can contain. Talk to your mixologist, and discover your new favorite amaro for a uniquely refreshing summer spritzer. (Mine is Fernet, plus Venus Gin No.1, and a splash of soda.) Start exploring spritzers on your own—great places to start in Santa Cruz are Bantam on the Westside, where exotic aperol siblings are a house specialty, and the inventive list of complex spritzers at 515 Kitchen & Cocktails.
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ROLLING IN Sweet Curls puts a new spin on Santa Cruz’s ice cream fixation
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ce cream has long been this area’s No. 1 dessert fixation. From the old-school scoops and sundaes at Marianne’s to Penny Ice Creamery’s more modern and unusual flavors that make the most of local produce, there is a destination for every type of sweet tooth. Now, Santa Cruz has a new type of ice cream to obsess over: rolled. Originally from Thailand, rolled ice cream is literally curls of freshly made, flavored ice cream—scraped fresh for each individual customer off a frozen metal plate. “The whole process of making rolled ice cream here is entertaining. From start to finish, there is something to watch. It’s a show,” Sweet Curls co-owner John Tran says. “We weren’t happy with the idea of a place where you just scooped ice cream out of a pre-made bucket. That seemed like
something you BY GEORGIA could do at home.” When Tran and his wife Elena Perepech first tried rolled ice cream, they loved it. “It was my ice cream, made fresh just for me,” Tran says. “You don’t get that with other places.” The couple decided to open their own rolled ice cream shop, one that was fun and relaxing for all ages. Their vision was finally realized when they opened Sweet Curls in downtown Santa Cruz in April. The owners say that the flavors took a long time to create. They taught themselves how to make rolled ice cream and routinely experimented at home, picking and choosing seasonal flavors. Some of their current flavors include piña colada, strawberry shortcake and kona coffee. “We liked the idea of making ice cream
as fresh as possible. Even if you make ice cream the same day, it’s still sitting around in the freezer,” Tran says. “This way, the toppings and ice cream are not only super fresh, but the process is more collaborative with customers because they can tweak flavors to their liking and also watch the entire process.” The business is a franchise, and though the owners are focused on their Santa Cruz location for now, they hope to expand the business to Los Angeles and Hawaii. “We want to give people this experience—a fun atmosphere and fresh ice cream, wherever they are,” Perepech says. Tran adds that the goal is to give customers a “mini-vacation,” he says. “We want to invoke and share the things we love with other people.”
JOHNSON
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A Tour Breakfast BY CHRISTINA WATERS
Santa Cruz has long been obsessed with the most important meal of the day. Here’s how to navigate the breakfast landscape
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obody doesn’t love breakfast, and we’ve got every possible style available in the breakfastobsessed Santa Cruz area. To get you started on your tour, we’ve helpfully corralled several of our favorite spots into appetite needs—choose what fits your morning.
PASTRIES AND MORE VERVE: In three Santa Cruz locations, Verve’s brisk baristas serve up expert espresso, along with mindaltering pastries from Manresa Breads in a sleek contemporary atmosphere. But the possibilities don’t end there. Verve’s avocado toast with chives, radish and organic poached egg gets many local techies started for the day. Verve breakfasts invariably involve fellow travelers with laptops, surfers, politicians, and visiting rock stars. Big Verve occupies a spacious corner of downtown Santa Cruz; more intimate Verve breakfasts are served at Pleasure Point and on the Westside, where the al fresco deck invites long conversations and the discovery of true love. 6:30 a.m. -9 p.m. vervecoffee.com. 20 >
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COMPANION BAKESHOP In Aptos, downtown Santa Cruz, and the Westside, this hip stop for incredible pastries, baguette breakfasts, and outstanding espresso drinks thrills locals and out-of-towners alike. Exceptionally buttery pastries, from the stellar kouign amann to eccentric variations on the classic palmier, tempt even the gluten averse. Definitive bear claws and galettes embedded with eggs and ham make brilliant partners to that first and second cappuccino of the morning. Share the space with precocious children, cyclists and fitness fanatics. 7 a.m.- 5 p.m., 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Closed Monday. companionbakeshop.com. CAFE IVETA ON THE WESTSIDE is a required pit stop for students, faculty, and writers in need of something more than simply good wifi access (although there’s that as well). Iveta’s signature house scones and addictive almond croissants are often all that’s needed to get the day going. Along with a Lavazza espresso macchiato, of course. But if you’ve just come from a Pilates class, or are on your way to a blazing Skype appointment, you’ll need something more like the two-fisted breakfast taco, or the amazing scrambled organic eggs with a side of organic arugula. One of the top places for avocado toast topped with bacon, tomatoes and cilantro. 2125 Delaware Ave., Santa Cruz. 7 a.m.-4 p.m., 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. iveta.com.
ALL THE BASES THE BUTTERY Once simply an irresistible bakery, the Buttery outgrew itself and now offers a full range of morning foods to enjoy in the boisterous old Victorian interior, or out on the picnic table patio. From 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, this house of tempting cakes and cookies also invites locals to stay awhile over a croissant, fresh fruit and the morning paper. Locals come for the hearty breakfasts of two eggs any
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style, bacon, potatoes and toast. Or the much more interactive breakfast sandwiches involving scrambled eggs, cheeses, bacon, ham, avocado, everything California loves. Don’t miss the exceptional zucchini muffins and outstanding lattés. 702 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz. 7a.m.-7p.m. daily. butterybakery.com. KELLY’S FRENCH BAKERY With offerings such as creamy polenta with poached eggs and pesto, openfaced ham and gruyere toast, or smoked salmon and avocado with poached eggs, Kelly's offers more than simply dazzling showcases filled with fresh muffins, scones, and eye-popping pastries. But don’t miss the house morning bun, an authentic bit of French pastry swirl loaded with butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Add a double espresso. Sit outside under an umbrella and watch the fog burn off at this north county institution. Corner of Ingalls and Swift streets. kellysfrenchbakery.com.
MAJOR BREAKFAST ENCOUNTERS WALNUT AVENUE CAFE Old-school chic is available here for serious breakfasts that run the classical gamut. We’re mad for the housepoached eggs with a pot of Earl Grey tea. But the eggs benedict competes with the righteous french toast for adoring fanbase. If you crave scrambles with homefries, this is your spot. Spacious, yet cozy. Tucked into an historic building in the center of downtown Santa Cruz. 106 Walnut Ave., Santa Cruz. 7 a.m.-3 p.m., 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. walnutavenuecafe.com. LINDA’S SEABREEZE CAFE You will never, ever be in danger of not getting enough to eat at this Seabright institution. A dollhouse interior lined
with local artwork and potted plants, Linda’s feels like a trip to the kitchen of a Midwestern farmhouse. Massive omelets, plate-sized waffles, spicy specials loaded with veggies, cheeses, sausages, tofu curries, and salsas, plus the old-school cinnamon bun make it a deserving favorite. The house makes unforgettable homefries sauteed with veggies and covered with melted cheese and sour cream. Exceptional coffee and a peerless Florentine omelet—cheese, bacon, and spinach inside, sour cream on top—are enough for breakfast and lunch. 542 Seabright Ave., Santa Cruz. 6 a.m.-2 p.m. daily. seabreezecafe.com. Of course, the breakfast possibilities here are endless— from the oceanfront ambience of Crow’s Nest to tiny Cafe Brasil to neo-hippie landmark Zachary’s. And it’s countywide! From Whale City Bakery in Davenport, you can travel along the shore to Santa Cruz’s Jack O’Neill Restaurant, hit Zoccoli’s Deli downtown and Bistro One Twelve at the Tannery, then head to the redwoods for Scotts Valley’s Heavenly Roadside Cafe, twisting all the way down to the Red Apple Cafe in Watsonville. Breakfast is everywhere—now go out and find yours.
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2019 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK
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STROUP TROOPS Tabitha Stroup (front, seated) and her crew (left to right): Dan McFarren, Angie Smith, Bob Acree, D.J. Gustafson, and Jason Johnstone. PHOTO: JULES HOLDSWORTH
NewFriend Friend in Cheeses’ Tabitha Stroup takes on new, socially conscious project Terroir in a Jar BY GEORGIA JOHNSON
I
t’s no surprise that Tabitha Stroup is cooking up something new, different and delicious. Stroup is one of the longtime culinary queens of Santa Cruz. She started her career in the Dream Inn kitchen in the early ’90s, then to other venues and projects—notably Friend in Cheeses Jam Company. But Stroup is moving on from her national brand, which she started in 2011.
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“Friend in Cheeses is doing her thing—she’s still competing with the Smuckers of the world, but she’s doing good,” Stroup says. “That was my vanity project, but now my focus is on something else.” That something else is Terroir in a Jar, a co-packing company focused on small farms and sustainability. The project started as an “aha” moment for Stroup, when she realized that she could help extend the life of not only bruised, ugly or unsellable products, but also the farmers behind them. Around 6 billion pounds of fruits and vegetables, more than 40% of all produce, are wasted every year in the U.S., according to a 2012 report by the Natural Resources Defense Council. Often it is because of appearance—scrapes, bruises and irregular shapes. With more than 40 million Americans experiencing some level of food insecurity, the fact that nearly half of all fruits and vegetables are thrown away is horrific. “The bruised, too-juicy, aftermarket produce that the open market isn’t going to buy—that is the end of the financial train for those, for that farmer. It probably didn’t even cover a portion of what it took to bring that produce to market,” Stroup explains. “So I was like, ‘How can I turn that around for the farmers, where they can have a diversification
of offerings—legal products that they could sell on the open market to stores, Amazon or their CSA while helping educate the public about sense of place—which is what terroir means.” Fluctuations in weather and temperature can be disastrous for farmers, especially for sensitive fruits like berries. The Central Coast is a strawberry region, and heavy late rains this spring led to crop losses for farmers across the Pajaro Valley. “This year I had so many strawberries. We did vinegars and shrubs, and then we had that heat wave which burnt the shoulders and jacked up cherries,” Stroup says. “We cannot forecast Mother Nature. We have done a doozy to this planet, and it’s only going to get worse. So we need to have these systems in order to preserve, literally, our agricultural complex without being giant ag anymore.” With Terroir in a Jar, Stroup will cook, pack and label goods for farmers to sell individually. Unlike Friend in Cheeses, Stroup’s focus isn’t on selling to the public for this project. She wants to help growers and businesses survive. “Look at the Midwest with all of the rain. There is going to be no money for thousands of farmers,” Stroup says. “What if they had value-added products in their pantry? They might have some kind of recoup.” Terroir in a Jar is working with Live Earth Farms, Fifth Crow Farm, Everett Family Farm, local breweries, and more to create and pack sustainable, shelf-stable products like strawberry culinary vinegar Nelson family organics, lavender apple jelly for Live Earth Farm and bearss lime margarita mix for Discovery at Live Earth. “Farmers lose money the minute they walk away from the farm,” Stroup says. “As much as we can, I pick up and deliver to the farms and really try to be as much of a full-
blown service to them as I can, so I can be their expert.” The project is a closed circle, from Stroup's team—hired through the Homeless Garden Project and Downtown Streets Team, to the recycled jars and the waste, which feeds livestock. “We are the first kitchen in Santa Cruz to be certified green by the state. We are efficient here, all the way down to the bamboo butt-wipe,” Stroup says with a laugh. Aside from helping farmers, Stroup says Terroir in a Jar products “sex up” weeknight meals for those who want delicious dinners on the fly. Preserves, vinegars and shrubs are easy on-the-go additions to any meal. Tying into its name, Stroup also hopes that through Terroir in a Jar consumers will learn more about produce sourcing and how the different regions and weather patterns of Central Valley and Central Coast farms impact the taste of fruits and vegetables grown there. “A strawberry grown in Pescadero is going to taste very different than a Seabright strawberry grown in Carmel Valley, because the conditions are different,” Stroup explains. “Maybe through this project people will learn that they love plums when they are grown in the foothills, or that they love padrons when they are inland.” With a knowledge of where their produce comes from, Stroup says, people can get to know their own tastes, but also the people behind it. “Equity is not a dirty word, and I think we have become, as producers and growers, used to thinking that the struggle is part of the process—and it doesn’t have to be,” Stroup says. “We just have to rethink and reinvent the wheel for how to get more value for our food economy. Food is love, and we have to treat it that way.” terroirinajar.com.
2019 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK
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San Jose
Restaurant and alehouse in a historic mountain setting.
Thoughtfully prepared meals with organic ingredients 21 rotating beer taps 10 wine taps HOURS LUNCH Tues–Sun: 11:30–2:30pm HAPPY HOUR Tues–Sun: 2:30–5pm JARS & BOARDS Tues–Sun: 3:00–close DINNER Tues–Thurs & Sun: 5–9pm Fri–Sat: 5–9:30pm Bar open until 10pm • Closed Mondays cremerhouse.com
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Drink well. Live well. Stockwell.
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Handcrafted Sparkling Wines in the Heart of Santa Cruz At Equinox, we strive to make high quality mĂŠthode champenoise wines from locally sourced grapes, and provide a welcoming and memorable tasting experience for our guests. Open Every Day 1-6pm 334-C Ingalls Street | Santa Cruz equinoxwine.com 831.471.8608
Santa Cruz Urban Winery Tasting Room Open Thursday-Sunday
1100 Fair Ave., Santa Cruz stockwellcellars.com - 831.818.9075 Growing sustainably in the Santa Cruz Mountains since 1988
Tasting Room & Winery @ the Quarry Corralitos
Tasting Room @ the Old Sash Mill Santa Cruz
Weekends, 12 noon-5 pm
Daily, 12 noon - 5 pm
storrswine.com 26
FOOD & DRINK | SANTACRUZ.COM | GOODTIMES.SC | 2019
G N I N DI S Y DA SATURDAY 7/13 10TH-ANNUAL HOP N’ BARLEY FESTIVAL With more than 50 regional and local breweries and 12 cider companies pouring two to three styles each, make sure you have a designated driver. A ticket includes access to all of the tastings, a glass, beer games, and two stages of live music.
carnitas tacos, and zucchini-white bean corn tacos.
INFO: 2-4:30 p.m. New Leaf Community Market, 1101 Fair Ave., Santa Cruz. newleaf.com/events. $40/two for $70.
WEDNESDAY 7/17-WEDNESDAY 10/16 LOCAL WINE TASTING SAIL
MEXICAN MANGO COOKING CLASS
Join various local wineries and O’Neill Yacht Charters for a one-of-a-kind experience sipping your way across the bay. Pelican Ranch, Birichino and Private Vines will be pouring a variety of wines paired with a selection of light appetizers as you indulge in some of the best wines and views on the coast. If you can’t make this one, there are plenty more opportunities all summer long. Check online for more information, dates and other wineries.
Join Chef Nissa Pierson and learn how to choose, store, cut, and make eight recipes featuring this sweet fruit, including tropical mango ceviche, avocado-mango pico de gallo, chipotle-mango
INFO: O’Neill Yacht Charters, 275 Lake Ave., Santa Cruz. 2:30 and 6:30 p.m. Wednesdays and select weekends. 818-3645, oneillyachtcharters.com. $50.
INFO: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Skypark Scotts Valley. 361 Kings Village Rd., Scotts Valley. hopnbarley.org. $40 tasting, $5 general admission.
SATURDAY 7/13
2019 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK
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“Did you know that edibles lead to awesomeness?” - Cosmo D
Welcome to Sawasdee
By the Sea or By the Mountains, We Have Two Locations to Serve You
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Cosmo D’s Outrageous Edibles are made by the founder’s own hands and are the synergistic result of one man’s love for cannabis and the skill of 25 years as an Executive Chef.
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2017
Best Thai
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Sawasdee by the Sea 101 Main St, Santa Cruz | 831.466.9009 Sun-Thurs 11a-9:30p | Fri-Sat 11a-10p Sawasdee Soquel 5050 Soquel Dr, Soquel | 831.462.5051 Sun-Thurs 11a-9:30p | Fri-Sat 11a-10p Order online at sawasdeebythesea.com or sawasdeesoquel.com 28
FOOD & DRINK | SANTACRUZ.COM | GOODTIMES.SC | 2019
Treehouse Santa Cruz Naturals East of Eden Curbstone Exchange Santa Cruz Mountain Herb
more info at cosmosedibles.com
K AITO
RAMEN, SUSHI & MORE
SOLAIRE RESTAURANT + BAR Fresh and Familiar Santa Cruz Dining
Open for Lunch & Dinner • Tues - Sun, closed Mon 830 41st Avenue in Pleasure Point • Santa Cruz (831) 464-2586 • smilekaito.com
Grab and Go Sushi Perfect to take to the beach!
Solaire Restaurant + Bar features a casually upscale design that draws the outside in with a multiangled ceiling adorned with backlit trees and blue sky. An outdoor patio brings the natural beauty of Santa Cruz to your table with views of the pool and surrounding redwood trees. The setting is cool and classy yet warm, comfortable and welcoming, creating a vibrant dining experience at any time of day in any season. Meticulously cultivated to reflect the spirit and imagination of Downtown Santa Cruz’s dining culture, Solaire’s nature/nurturethemed menu highlights local, sustainable cuisine with fresh ingredients.
OPEN DAILY
B A K E RY
The only Gluten and Peanut Free Bakery in Santa Cruz. Come try us today! 1420 41st Ave Capitola 831-316-5081 melindasbakery.com
Sushi Market Sprouts 300 7th Avenue at Twin Lakes Beach, Santa Cruz (831) 465-1177
Tues-Sat 12-7pm Closed Sun-Mon
BREAKFAST 6:30AM – 11:30AM ALL DAY 12:00PM – 10:00PM DINNER 6:00PM – 10:00PM 831-425-7100 611 OCEAN STREET, SANTA CRUZ INFO@HOTELPARADOX.COM 2019 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK
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G N S I Y A N D I D FRIDAY 7/19
THURSDAY 7/25
PACIFIC NORTHWEST BEER AND CHEESE PAIRING WITH DESCHUTES BREWERY
VIETNAMESE STREET FOOD COOKING DEMO
Join Nicole Henry from Deschutes and enjoy new releases paired with local cheeses, including “Da Shootz!” with Cypress Grove Purple Haze and Black Butte Porter with Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk or Pt. Reyes Original blue cheese. For those 21+ only.
INFO: 6-7:30 p.m. New Leaf Community Market, 1101 Fair Ave, Santa Cruz. newleaf.com/events. $10
SATURDAY 7/20 AND SUNDAY 7/21 31ST-ANNUAL ART & WINE FESTIVAL Enjoy a weekend filled with art, wine and live music. Shop more than 30 local art and food vendors while sipping on some of Santa Cruz’s best wines and eating authentic wood-fired pizza from Sleight of Hand.
INFO: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Bargetto Winery, 535 N Main St., Soquel. bargetto.com. Free admission, wine tasting with purchase of $15 festival glass.
SATURDAY 7/20
Join Chef Eric Adema, owner of Plus One Catering, and learn to make fresh shrimp spring rolls with mint, greens and mung bean sprouts; pho’ noodle bowls; and Vietnamese crepes with cardamom rubbed pork. With beer or sake for guests 21+.
INFO: 6-8:30 p.m. New Leaf Community Market, 1101 Fair Ave., Santa Cruz. 426-1306, newleaf.com/events. $50/two for $90.
FRIDAY 7/26 CHAMINADE FARM TO TABLE WINE DINNER: SIX SIGMA RANCH Chef Page will be highlighting the Central Coast’s abundance of fruits, vegetables, meats, and produce inspired by the seasonal harvest. The evening will begin with wine and hors d’oeuvres on the outdoor patio, with stunning panoramic views of the Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay. Dinner follows with family-style seating and a fivecourse menu, featuring wine from Six Sigma Ranch.
INFO: 6 p.m. Chaminade Resort and Spa, 1 Chaminade Lane, Santa Cruz. 475-5600, chaminade.com. $90.
WINE PASSPORT DAYS
FRIDAY 7/26
Santa Cruz is home to some of the best wineries on the Central Coast. The quarterly passport is back this month, just in time to start the summer season with multiple tastings of Santa Cruz’s best wines and celebrate more than 20 years of passport celebration days. The purchase of a Wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains Passport includes tastings at more than 45 participating wineries year-round, and passport celebration days grant admission to exclusive wineries that are not normally open to the public.
CIDER PAIRING WITH GOLDEN STATE CIDER COMPANY
INFO: Noon-5 p.m. Passports available at participating wineries. 685-8463, scmwa.com. $65.
SATURDAY 7/20 FARMERS MARKET BREAKFAST POP-UP WITH GEMA CRUZ Chef Gema Cruz of Gabriella Cafe will be serving a multi-course breakfast, complete with her famous focaccia and summer frittata, plus chilaquiles. Bring your own reusable plates and silverware. Everything else is provided.
INFO: 10 a.m. Westside Farmers’ Market, Mission St. Extension at Western Drive. 454-0566, santacruzfarmersmarket.org. $45.
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Sample four super-crisp, scrumptious ciders made with 100% fresh-pressed West Coast apples: Mighty Dry, Mighty Hopped, Gingergrass, and Bay Brut. Each will be paired with different cheeses and other appetizers. For those 21+.
INFO: 6-7:30 p.m. New Leaf Community Market, 1101 Fair Ave., Santa Cruz. 426-1306, newleaf.com/events. $10.
SATURDAY 8/3 AND SUNDAY 8/4 CHURCH STREET FAIR A two-day, two-block celebration of the arts featuring live music, dance, art, food and wine. Activities for kids include the Cabrillo Festival’s Free Family Concert, with a tour of the orchestra.
INFO: 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Santa Cruz Civic, 307 Church St., Santa Cruz. cabrillomusic.org. Free.
6 choices of Eggs Benedict Daily Soups & Specials Fresh 1/2lb.Burgers Great Service
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Voted Best Breakfast 589 AUTO CENTER DRIVE, WATSONVILLE 831.761.9551 OPEN MONDAY–SUNDAY 7AM – 3PM
Coffee & Pastries! WOOD-FIRED PIZZA • ORIGINAL RECIPE SAUCES • HANDMADE DOUGH WOOD-FIRED PIZZA• ORIGINAL • ORIGINAL RECIPE RECIPE SAUCES DOUGH WOOD-FIRED PIZZA SAUCES• HANDMADE • HANDMADE DOUGH
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Gourmet Flatbread! featuring WOOD-FIRED pizza build-to-suit or combinations
homemade pastries local ingredients live music Ocean views O P E N E V E R Y D AY Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
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featuring pizza build-to-suit or combinations veganWOOD-FIRED and gluten free options • organic salads featuring WOOD-FIRED pizza build-to-suit or salads combinations vegan and gluten free options • organic homemade soups and desserts vegan and gluten free options • organic salads homemade soups and desserts beer and wine to dine-in or TAKE OUT homemade soups and desserts beer and wine to dine-in or TAKE OUT ping-pong • smiling faces!OUT beer and wine• checkers to dine-in or TAKE ping-pong • checkers • smiling faces! Eat and Be• smiling Happy! ping-pong • checkers faces! eat and be happy hours eatcall and831.429.1856 be happy Tuesday–Sunday 4:00 to 9:30pm-ish hours
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2019 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK
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G N S I Y A N D I D
SATURDAY 8/10
SATURDAY 8/24 AND SUNDAY 8/25
FARMERS MARKET BREAKFAST POP-UP WITH KATHERINE STERN
SANTA CRUZ TEQUILA & TACO MUSIC FESTIVAL
Chef Katherine Stern, formerly of La Posta, is hosting this summer breakfast event. The menu includes marinated rock cod with pickled vegetables, Fogline Farm pork loin, and lemon verbena-poached peaches. This will sell out; get tickets before they are gone.
The Tequila & Taco Music Festival is returning to San Lorenzo Park for tequila tasting, gourmet tacos, live music, art, and craft beer. Sample top-shelf tequilas straight on Saturday, or margaritas on Sunday during Más Margaritas. There is no tequila tasting on Sunday.
INFO: Westside Farmers’ Market, Mission Street Extension at Western Drive, Santa Cruz. 454-0566, santacruzfarmersmarket.org. $45.
INFO: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. San Lorenzo Park, 137 Dakota St., Santa Cruz. tequilaandtacomusicfestival.com. $10-$60.
SATURDAY 8/24 SUSTAIN SUPPER BENEFIT Join the Homeless Garden Project for a delicious four-course meal on their stunning 9-acre farm. Dinner includes farm tours and wine pairings, live music and a keynote talk with acclaimed author Jonathan Franzen
INFO: 4-7:30 p.m. Homeless Garden Project Farm. Shaffer Road at Delaware Avenue, Santa Cruz. homelessgardenproject.org. $150.
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SATURDAY 8/7 7TH-ANNUAL MOLE AND MARIACHI FESTIVAL The Mole and Mariachi Festival will feature more types of mole than you can count on one hand, and as much mariachi music as anyone could ever want. If and when you run out of mole to try, move onto unlimited tacos, churros and chavelas for sale. It’s a benefit in support of the Santa Cruz Mission State Historic Park.
INFO: 11 a.m.- 5 p.m. Santa Cruz Mission State Historic Park, 144 School St., Santa Cruz. thatsmypark.org/events. Free admission/tasting kits $10-15.
W Hv
POOL TABLE, JUKEBOX BIG SCREEN TVS & FREE WI-FI
$3.00 Well and Draft Beer
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2019 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK
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G N S I Y A N D I D FRIDAY 9/6-SUNDAY 9/8
SATURDAY 9/14 AND SUNDAY 9/15
38TH-ANNUAL SANTA CRUZ GREEK FESTIVAL
37TH-ANNUAL CAPITOLA ART & WINE FESTIVAL
Get your opa on at the annual Greek Culture and Food Festival. This free event, brought to you by members of Santa Cruz’s Prophet Elias Greek Orthodox Church, features live Greek music and dancing, not to mention scrumptious foods and pastries from the Mediterranean. All along Church Street, between Cedar and Center streets, you’ll find homemade moussaka, pastitsio and kabobs, plus crafts, family activities and a whole lot of Greek people having a great time.
The Capitola Art & Wine Festival combines all of the best things—art, wine, music, and food—in Capitola Village overlooking the stunning Monterey Bay. This year’s festival includes more than 150 fine artists and 20 Santa Cruz wineries.
INFO: Friday 5-10 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sunday noon-7 p.m. Prophet Elias Greek Orthodox Church, 223 Church St., Santa Cruz. livelikeagreek.com. Free.
INFO: Saturday 10:30 a.m.-7 p.m., Sunday 10:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Capitola Village., Capitola. 475-6522, capitolaartandwine.com. Free.
WEDNESDAY 9/11-SUNDAY 9/15 SANTA CRUZ COUNTY FAIR From funnel cakes and roller coasters to all-Alaskan pig races and turkey stampedes, everyone loves a good county fair. This year’s talent also features humans like Michael Mezmer, one of the world’s top performing stage hypnotists, to hypnotize you into thinking that eating 100 hot dogs is a good idea.
INFO: Wednesday-Friday noon-11 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Santa Cruz County Fairgrounds, 2601 E. Lake Ave., Watsonville. santacruzcountyfair.com.
SATURDAY 10/26 SANTA CRUZ BEACH BOARDWALK CHILI COOK-OFF Chili is an ultimate comfort food, and what’s more comforting than vats of it as far as the eye can see? Sounds like heaven on Earth. The Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk’s seventh-annual chili cook-off features meat and vegetarian chili options from both amateur and professional chefs. A tasting ticket includes six chili samples, a bowl, spoon, and people’s choice ballot.
INFO: 10 a.m.-4 p.m., tasting begins at 1 p.m. Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, 400 Beach St., Santa Cruz. beachboardwalk.com. Admission free/tasting kits $10.
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island
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Appetizers
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Happy Hour at Hula’s
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Pupus • Tiki Drinks • Wine by the Glass MON 4:30-6pm TUES 2-close WED-SUN 2-6pm
831.426.HULA
221 Cathcart Street • Downtown Santa Cruz www.hulastiki.com 2019 | GOODTIMES.SC | SANTACRUZ.COM | FOOD & DRINK
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Voted Best Pub and Bar Food in Santa Cruz! 16 ROTATING BEERS ON TAP • FULL BAR • BEST BURGERS! 9
Westside - Santa Cruz NEW Aptos Location 841 Almar Ave, Santa Cruz Open everyday for lunch & dinner 11am - 2am Saturday & Sunday Brunch 10am-2pm
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8017 Soquel Dr, Aptos Open everyday for lunch & dinner 11am - Midnight Fri/Sat open until 1am, Saturday & Sunday Brunch 10am-2pm
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