The Healdsburg Tribune 12-22-2022

KELLEY LEADS FIRST COUNCIL MEETING AS NEW MAYOR ZOOMING IN

FROM A REMOTE LOCATION, ARIEL KELLEY TAKES CHARGE

By Christian Kallen

It’s not usual for the Healdsburg City Council to have two meetings in December, one of them just a week before Christmas. But a technological breakdown at the Nov. 21 meeting meant there remained a lot of year-end work to do, so the council met on Dec. 19 to attend to this.

One problem, Healdsburg’s new mayor, Ariel Kelley, was out of town, having planned “some family holiday travel, assuming the meeting would be canceled,” as she told the Tribune But thanks to the pandemic-adjusted rules for civic meetings, she was able to chair the meeting remotely and called it to order at 6pm on the dot.

The meeting needed to happen in order for the council “to conduct some routine business items, like adopting the fire and building codes, which were set to expire at the first of the year,” said Kelley. It was also a good time to schedule two personnel issues that can affect the city’s business for the coming year: appointing councilmembers to various local and regional committees, and vetting the four candidates to replace Jerry Eddinger on the city’s Planning Commission.

Eddinger resigned from the commission at the end of October, bringing to an end 48 years with the city in various roles, including council members and mayor. He was given an emotional send-off by the council at their Dec. 5 meeting, complete with an ovation from many community members who had worked with him or used his

Media Exec Reborn as Donkey Protector

RON KING’S HOPLAND SANCTUARY RESCUES DONKEYS HEADED FOR ‘KILL PENS’

By Christian Kallen

The seasonal legend is that the carpenter went door to door in Bethlehem looking for lodging while his very pregnant young wife was carried by an ass. Thirty-three years later, that grown child rode a donkey into Jerusalem to culminate his ministry. Whatever one may think of these stories, the fact that donkeys may now be an endangered species is alarming.

Donkeys? The butt of many a joke, donkeys have nonetheless been part of human history for millennia, having been domesticated in Africa as many as 7,000 years ago and

used as work animals ever since. The scientific name is Equus asinus, hence its common name (donkey is a relatively modern name, quite possibly used because the term “ass” is troubling for some). But as people developed machine technology to plow, hoe, reap and bear, the common ass has become somewhat irrelevant.

But as with bears, tigers, rhinoceros and pangolin, donkeys are among the species being illegally slaughtered worldwide to supply raw material in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). The “valued” portion of the donkey is its hide, from which a gelatin called ejiao is extracted.

Worldwide specialists of TCM often focus on herbal or physical remedies, but many practitioners in China and Vietnam rely on a supply of ejiao, which can only be replenished by the slaughter of donkeys. It is used in edibles, tonics and face

creams, and prescribed for all sorts of ailments. Similarly, deer antlers are the base for many TCM concoctions as well.

Though ejiao’s use has been around for centuries, its modern popularity was boosted by a 2012 Chinese TV melodrama which

showed ejiao used to promote fertility. One of the world’s largest ejiao producers paid for its products to be placed in the scripts, and ejiao appeared in multiple episodes over the four months the show aired in Hong Kong.

Now, it is estimated

that 4.8 million donkey hides a year are taken to satisfy annual demand for ejiao, according to a recent report from the Donkey Sanctuary (thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk). At its current pace, the global

management of business when Vertice Hospitality concludes its oversight as of Jan. 6, 2023.

The news was announced in a press release dated Dec. 14, but the restaurant’s press offices requested the news be quarantined until after a staff meeting that afternoon to share the news. It was apparently a wellkept secret, as employees confirmed that they were unaware of the pending changes.

By Christian Kallen

Little Saint, the ambitious all-vegan restaurant, market and event venue at 25 North St., dropped an early Christmas surprise last week when it was announced that the owners, Laurie and Jeff Ubben, will take over full

“Our initial concept for Little Saint, which debuted in the former SHED space in early 2022, was to return a treasured destination to our town of Healdsburg in the form of a plant-based all-day gathering place,” said the Ubbens in a press release from Little Saint.

Vertice also operates SingleThread Farm and

Kelly Leads Meeting, 5

DOG WALK A quiet morning at Little Saint, in the iconic SHED building on North Street, Healdsburg.

Photo by Christian Kallen

Photos by Christian Kallen

SNACK WORTHY Rescued donkey Poppy nibbles on a bag of straw at John and Laura Somers’ Healdsburg ranch. They adopted three from Oscar’s Place, a donkey sanctuary in Hopland.

DONKEY LOVE Ron King and Veijo embrace in mutual respect and comfort at Oscar’s Place in Hopland.

Donkey Protector

donkey population of 44 million could be cut in half over the next five years, the report warns.

As China’s donkey population plummets, a global trade in illegal donkeys— including livestock auctions in the U.S., where donkeys are purchased by the pound and taken to “kill pens” in Mexico for slaughter—has expanded. It’s no longer a joke, if it ever was.

But as with many of the world’s apparently insurmountable problems, the solution can begin in one’s own backyard.

Animal Rescue Laura Somers and her husband, John, live on a ranch about a mile from

Healdsburg, up a narrow road off Dry Creek. Their two children are grown now, and his mother lives up the road. There are vineyards on the property, and a creek running through it where coyotes pass through.

Last year, they thought of getting horses to graze the land. But when Somers volunteered at a donkey sanctuary called Oscar’s Place in Hopland, just over the county line into Mendocino, she was transformed by the steady affection and companionable presence of the donkeys.

Two in particular were Olive and Poppy. She would spend hours at a time with them, and a mutual bond formed. “I

only wanted two, but one of the girls that I fell in love with there was pregnant,” she said.

Before the year was over, Somers adopted three donkeys—Poppy gave birth to Winnie— and added them to her ranch’s modest menagerie in October 2021.

“There was a donkey in the neighborhood when I was little named Romeo, and I just loved him,” she told the Tribune. “My kids are grown, so I thought, let’s have some donkeys. So we started looking, and the only thing we could find was the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), which is just a frightening organization.”

➝ Donkey Protector, 3

PALS Adopted donkeys Olive, Winnie and Poppy line up for an afternoon treat from Laura Somers of Healdsburg.

Photos by Christian Kallen

BONDING A volunteer at Oscar’s Place spends one-on-one time with a donkey to create trust for the often-abused animals.

Donkey Protector

There are about 27 million acres of public land in the West, particularly in the mountain states, where wild horses and donkeys range, and the BLM manages that land through a program called the Wild Horse and Burro Program. But every couple years, the BLM decides that there are “too many” of these equine residents.

Federal roundups, aided by trucks, helicopters and drones, winnow the herd by hundreds if not thousands of animals, horses and donkeys both. “To prevent overpopulation and overgrazing, the BLM gathers excess animals and offers them for adoption or sale to a good home,” reads the BLM website on the program.

The fate of the captured wild horses has become something of a popular cause; many of them can find adoption, as the image of the wild mustang is romantic and compelling. But donkeys? Not so much.

Donkey King Ron King, a former media executive, runs Oscar’s Place. He has an abundance of charisma, confidence and access to cash. Most of it is his, from a high-rolling career in publishing at Time Inc., but the Hopland property belongs to modern art dealer Philip Selway. Selway bought the property to start a farm animals’ sanctuary, but when that didn’t work out, he asked King to move up there and handle the sale.

The 75-acre property is off a small highway connecting Hopland to Lake County, a dirt mile through vineyards and oak woodlands. It’s open by appointment for prospective sponsors of a donkey, either through a donation or adoption. Adoption is a lifetime commitment; most applicants are not accepted.

There are three main pens, a barn with medical facilities, paddocks and fields. Donkeys are everywhere.

“Most of the ancient global cities were built on the backs of donkeys,” said King, a fit hazeleyed man in his 50s, his thick hair cropped short. “Before we had tractors, donkeys did that work. Now they’re not needed anymore, and they have nobody speaking up for them.”

Inside the pen, he walked up to one gray denizen, Viejo, his arms spread wide and low. “I wanted to speak up for somebody who didn't have somebody speaking up for them,” he said softly. “And then the fact they can love you back was very appealing to me.”

The two embraced, the donkey’s large head resting on King’s shoulders, and their eyes closed. Time passed. It’s difficult to say who needed the hug more.

Road to Redemption

King’s story is at least as interesting as the 96 donkeys he now shelters. He had a challenging youth growing up in a rigid religious family in the South, and got into trouble with the law and drugs before he turned his life around in his 20s. He became interested in the world of fashion and in publishing, and over a 20-year career became influential in the industry, as a vice president at Time Inc., with oversight of the InStyle , Southern Living Sunset and Essence magazines.

But in 2017, Time Inc. was sold to Meredith in a $2.8 billion deal, and King took a retirement package. He knocked around a bit, doing media consulting, until in 2020 when his friend Selway asked him to help sell the 75-acre ranch in Hopland. King went to stay there for a few weeks—and discovered something he didn’t know he had been missing.

Not long after arriving at the ranch, while hiking over the property, the wired media tech exec found himself unplugged. “I had no thoughts in my head, except these beautiful surroundings. It was the first time I felt serenity in 20 years,” he told CBS Mornings

He later came across a TikTok video of a woman rescuing donkeys, and began to research the reasons why. In so doing, he stumbled upon a global calamity in the making—the wholesale slaughter of donkeys to provide hides for traditional medicine.

Suddenly the door opened. The property was taken off the market. Selway’s idea of a farm animal sanctuary focused into Oscar’s

Place Donkey Sanctuary and Adoption Center, and Ron King began a new life as a protector of donkeys.

“The only way to help a donkey that’s been abused emotionally recover is to love it back to health,” he said. Of the donkeys at Oscar’s Place now, the older ones have very probably been abused over their lives—donkeys can live 40 years. Some are more cautious than others, but with the patient care and love that King, his volunteers and employees show for the animals, a slow recovery comes to most of them.

“Donkeys have different brains than horses; the limbic system is more well developed,” said King as he caressed Viejo’s neck. “They’re not only very intelligent, but they have a lot of emotional intelligence. They’re like big loving dogs.”

In less than two years, King has become one of the biggest advocates for donkeys, and with his media connections he’s been able to get profiles on Oscar’s Place on everything from CBS Mornings to Oprah to USA Today and the Washington Post

“We are all on our own path of redemption of some sort,” said King. “And this is a sanctuary for us as well.”

Support for Oscar’s Place is welcome through volunteers, donation or adoption. To learn more, visit oscarsplace.org.

FRIDA A new donkey mom grazes in the large pen at Oscar’s Place, a 75-acre donkey rescue and adoption center in Hopland.

WALL OF LOVE Ron King and volunteer coordinator Madyson Cobban (with barn cat Orca) at the wall displaying the names of donkeys that have been adopted from Oscar’s Place since it opened less than two years ago.

FAMILY New mother Stella stands watch over her recently born calf, Malcolm, at Oscar’s Place. The gestation period for donkeys is 14 months, and while many of the rescued females are pregnant, the babies are carried to term. Males are gelded to prevent more pregnancies.

Photos by Christian Kallen

Little Saint Pivots

Restaurant in Healdsburg, and the year-long partnership between the two restaurants seemed a solid one. Vertice, a hospitality development and management company “with a radical vision for what hospitality can be,” as the press release said, recently purchased the River Belle Inn on Front Street and is expected to shift their focus to that historic bed and breakfast.

SingleThread chefs Kyle and Katina Connaughton had cooperated with the Ubbens, and Little Saint creative director Ken Fulk, to help re-establish the former SHED location as a destination shopping and dining experience in Healdsburg. “We are proud to have been a part of this very special collaboration within our community and to have the opportunity to participate in Little Saint's ideation to operating all the way through its first year,” the Connaughtons said.

The Ubbens were not directly available for comment, but Sarah Lynch of Fulk’s office downplayed the move. “There's no real news for the owners to share. We are making adjustments in support of our original vision for Healdsburg's first 100% vegan restaurant,” she told the Tribune

She did confirm however that there were changes in the works. “The menu will be different—a simple and straightforward collaboration with Little Saint Farm,” said Lynch.

Like SingleThread, Little Saint operates its own farm nearby to supply greens for the kitchen, which find their way into the seasonal vegan dishes the restaurant features. SingleThread however is not vegan; Little Saint is committed to the concept.

“This is a natural progression of an ambitious idea to build a restaurant based on a passionate philosophy,” said Lynch. “Such collaborations are rarely a direct route to their final destination, but much of Little Saint was going in the right

It’s with much gratitude and excitement that Little Saint is ready to pick up where Vertice leaves off and will manage all food and beverage operations. We look forward to expanding our growing community and will continue to dedicate ourselves to purposefully plant-based offerings.

LAURIE AND JEFF UBBEN

direction, so we're taking a moment to fine-tune the compass.”

“It's with much gratitude and excitement that Little Saint is ready to pick up where Vertice leaves off and will manage all food and beverage operations,” read the statement from the Ubbens. “We look forward to expanding our growing community and will continue to dedicate ourselves to purposefully plant-based offerings.”

Staff continuity presumes Chef Bryan Oliver will continue to oversee the restaurant’s menu of 100% plant-based dishes, based on what is growing seasonally on their five-acre garden property located off Westside Road. There are currently 69 people working at Little Saint, but Lynch was careful to qualify any speculation. “Everyone at Little Saint has been offered to remain in their current roles and I anticipate that most of the staffing will be confirmed by January 7th when the hand-over of [Food and Beverage] operations is complete,” she told the Tribune in an email.

However, though no one is predicting significant transformation, some alterations may be revealed soon. “We are making some minor changes to the layout, and we may close for

a short winter break to implement those,” said Lynch.

The vegan restaurant and eclectic wine program are only part of Little Saint’s broad menu and services: An expresso cart creates ondemand coffee drinks (with oatmeal and nut milks only); pastries and snacks are made in onsite ovens; and housemade kombuchas, juices and “wellness shots” are also available.

Upstairs, the patiostyle Lounge at Little Saint offers specialty cocktails from Thursday through Monday evenings, in addition to occasional live performances. The entire upper floor also doubles as a private event venue for up to 200 guests.

It was almost exactly four years ago that Doug Lipton and Cindy Daniel announced that the SHED, their selffinanced project, would close its doors for good on Dec. 31, 2018, ending its five-year experiment in agrarian retail.

Besides being located at 25 North St., Little Saint may be found online at littlesainthealdsburg. com. Opens at 6 am; restaurant is open Thursday-Monday, 5:30-9:30pm. Closed Mondays.

DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE Famed Michelin-starred chef Kyle Connaughton of SingleThread cais stepping back at Little Saint.

Kelley Leads Meeting

general contractor business over the years.

But his departure was not without a shadow. As general contractor overseeing the significant remodel of the former Honor Mansion on Grove Street, and its transformation into the luxury Ruse resort, he had to recuse himself when the permit approval for the project came before the Planning Commission on Oct. 25. The reason: Community Development Director Scott Duiven had rejected the project’s use permit in September, prompting an appeal to the Planning Commission.

But that commission voted unanimously to support Duiven’s decision, and denied the appeal. Not unexpectedly, that vote was appealed to the next body up the power structure—the city council— which has yet to hear the appeal.

But now the city council has two new members, Ron Edwards and Chris Herrod. If there were any predictability on how the former council would have ruled on the Ruse’s appeal, all bets are off with the newly filled seats. One more thing: Kelley, as an immediate neighbor of the Ruse, must be recused, so a four-member council will decide on the forthcoming appeal.

The other side of Eddinger’s resignation is that it opens up a seat on the Planning Commission itself, the sevenmember body that holds public hearings on proposed development plans, conditional use permits and other land use matters. The open commission seat was posted in November and drew four applicants, who were introduced to the city council at Monday’s meeting.

The four applicants are Jerry Haag, Alex Wood, Todd Gale and Stephen Barber. A fiveyear resident of Healdsburg, Barber is a loan officer. A relative newcomer to Healdsburg, at two years of residence, Gale is a facilities engineer.

Haag is a retired

former city planner and planning consultant who has lived in town for 15 years (and lists Eddinger among his three references), with multiple projects in Sonoma and Napa counties listed on his CV. The final candidate is Woods, who graduated from Healdsburg High eight years ago (2014), and is a regional supervisor at California Climate Action Corp.

Kelley proposed not one but two subcommittees, of two council members each, to interview the four applicants. A new and veteran council member were paired off for the interviews, and based on their seating at the meeting, Kelley suggested that David Hagele pair off with Ron Edwards, and Evelyn Mitchell and Chris Herrod comprising the other pair.

The two-member organization is necessary because the Brown Act forbids more than two sitting council members communicating about city business outside of a formal meeting. “You can talk to the other person on your subcommittee, but you should not speak to any other member on the council until you arrive back at the dais,” said the city’s attorney, Samantha Zutler.

Hagele outlined four questions used in previous Planning Commission interviews, dating from 2019. Kelley noted some of the questions were already on the applications the candidates had filled out and offered her own version of the questions, which

required more specificity from the applicants. After some discussion, the council agreed to apply Kelley’s more specific list of questions, and decided to “convene at a future meeting to deliberate and appoint a new planning commissioner.” That discussion and appointment is tentatively scheduled for the second meeting of the year, on Feb. 6, 2023.

The meeting concluded with the appointment of all council members to a large number of local and regional advisory boards, usually one each with an alternate. That process went quickly, and the appointments will soon be available on the city website at healdsburg. gov.

“I think my first meeting went relatively smoothly, all things considered,” said Kelley afterwards. “I am looking forward to the year ahead with a solid five-member council, including our two newest members, who both seem eager to participate and weigh in on Monday night. A very good sign for the years ahead!”

The Healdsburg City Council meets on alternate Mondays throughout the year, although their calendar is dark for July, and changes their meeting dates to the Tuesday following any Monday holiday. The council meets at City Council Chambers, 401 Grove St.; next meeting is Jan. 17.

Photo courtesy of City of Healdsburg/Zoom

ZOOM At bottom, Healdsburg's new Mayor Ariel Kelley remotely chairs the Dec. 19 meeting of the city council, as the other members are shown at their seats in Council Chambers.

HEALDSBURG’S NOTABLE EATERIES PROMISE MYRIAD SEASONAL MENUS, SPARKLING TOASTS

By Christian Kallen

Chances are the house is decorated with red and blue lights, the tree is festooned with collectible ornaments, all the bespoke presents are wrapped and family plans for the Christmas weekend are already in place.

But what about New Year’s Eve? It’s only a week away, and could be the biggest social

opportunity of either 2022 or 2023. Here are some local options that may still be available to celebrate the season, and ring in the New Year.

What follows is a list of restaurants with special menus or plans for the year-ending holiday. Most other area restaurants will be open their regular hours; one may call them to verify and make reservations.

Barndiva (231 Center St.) Lukka Feltman and company will present “an exquisite a la carté seasonal winter menu, with special NYE

bells & whistles,” including caviar, white truffle tarte flambee, Scott Beattie cocktails and the like, with Isabel Hales at the piano. No special admission, menu prices.

Barndiva Studio B (237 Center St.) Chef Erik Anderson’s multi-course tasting menu draws on classic French technique to create “a vibrant and fresh vision of modern French fine dining.” Thirteen courses, comprising all food groups, with optional beverage pairing. $300 per person, $250 for beverages.

Coyote Sonoma (44 Mill St.) One may rock in 2023 with tribute band Hey Jude, 7:3010:30pm, with a New Year’s Eve ball drop at 9pm (midnight in New York). Dinner sold out, show-only tickets $30.

Cyrus (275 Highway 128, Geyserville) Sonoma County’s newest Michelin-starred restaurant finds Chef Douglas Keane up to his old tricks after 10 years of planning. New Year’s Eve experience includes champagne or martini and canapes in the Bubble Lounge, chef’s visit in

the Kitchen Table, truffle-topped personal table service, celebratory glass of Krug Grande Cuveé and a gift from the Chocolate Room. $798 plus taxes and gratuities.

Dry Creek Kitchen (317 Healdsburg Ave.)

DCK’s culinary team will offer a festive fivecourse menu of seasonally inspired Wine Country fare, from 5-9 pm. $185 per person, $95 supplemental wine pairing. drycreekkitchen.com.

Elephant in the Room (177A Healdsburg Ave.)

On a slightly different scale, John Courage brings the Elephant crowd into the New Year with a four-set show, starting at 9pm and lasting until 2023. Cover $20.

Little Saint (25 North St.) The 100% vegan restaurant serves a festive prixe-fixe menu on New Year’s Eve. Bookings are $95 per person, with an optional $75 beverage pairing. Festive dress is encouraged. One may email reservations@littlesainthealdsburg.com or call 707-433-8207.

The Matheson (106 Matheson St) A Chef’s Special six-course Tasting Menu will be served in the main dining room, an elevated version of The Matheson’s regular tasting menu. Priced at $175 for six courses, not including optional wine pairings, additional beverages or gratuity. The Matheson dinner service will conclude at 10pm; guests are encouraged to ring in the New Year

upstairs at the Roof 106 cocktail lounge.

SingleThread (131 North St.) Two celebration dinners will be featured on New Year's Eve. One may get an early start to celebrating the New Year as Chef Kyle Connaughton and his culinary team create a 10-course tasting menu inspired by the season. Limited reservations available at 3pm, $525 per person. They also plan a New Year’s EveMidnight Celebration that includes an 11-course tasting menu plus a midnight toast. $650 per person, prepaid with reservations.

Spoonbar (219 Healdsburg Ave.) A three-course dinner will be held by candlelight, featuring festive dishes and desserts, with a live band playing an eclectic mix of jazz ballads, soul and pop. $110 per person, plus tax and gratuities; menu at spoonbar.com/ events/?id=40.

Valette (344 Center St.) Chef Dustin Valette’s signature restaurant will offer a special six-course Chef’s Tasting Menu for New Year’s Eve, plus optional caviar course and wine pairings. Tasting menu is $150 per person, caviar course $95, wine pairing $95; prices do not include tax and gratuity. A la carte options from the tasting menu will be served at the bar on a first come, first served basis. Reservations from 5 to 9:45pm. Valettehealdsburg.com.

PHOTO OF THE WEEK

By Pierre Ratte

The picture above is a full arcing rainbow, portrayed in last week’s

Photo of the Week dropping behind vineyards and trees, as if painted by John Constable. Christmas commemorates the birth of Jesus, who claimed to be the light. He asked that people “love one another.” On that first Christmas day, time changed, as did much else.

Time is demarcated in western culture by that first Christmas day. Dates before Jesus’ birthday are referred to as BC—Before Christ, and afterwards as AD— Anno Domini, meaning “year of the Lord.” Modern references use CE and BCE—Common Era

and Before the Common Era, to denote the same demarcation.

Every Christmas Eve, the Wall Street Journal publishes an editorial written in 1949. That editorial, titled “In Hoc Anno Domini,” was written by Vermont C. Royster—great name, great writer. His middle initial, “C,” stands for Connecticut.

For years, I have been sending a link to Royster’s editorial with Christmas cards. It is a special privilege to link it for readers through the Tribune. May the holidays and 2023 be happy, healthy and filled with the light and the wonder of rainbows. Thanks for reading “Photo of the Week”

and the Healdsburg Tribune! Thanks to Weeklys for continuing the Tribune’s publishing enterprise, lifting up local stories focused on local life. Merry Christmas and happy holidays, dear readers!

Fun facts: Vermont Connecticut Royster was born in Raleigh, NC. His great uncles were also all born in North Carolina. His great uncles were named: Arkansas Delaware, Wisconsin Illinois, Oregon Minnesota and Iowa Michigan.

Vermont Royster graduated UNC Chapel Hill in 1935. In 1936, he started writing for the Wall Street Journal. He joined the U.S. Naval Reserves in 1940, experiencing combat

in the Pacific Theater, being one of the first to see Nagasaki after its nuclear destruction.

Post-World War II, he returned to the Wall Street Journal, becoming its editor from 1946–1971. Writing until 1986, he received two Pulitzer prizes and the Medal of Freedom, which citation reads in part: “his common sense exploded pretensions” and “his compelling eloquence warned of the evils of society loosed from its moorings in faith.”

To join me in appreciating this great work of writing, republished every year since 1949, see the ‘In Hoc Anno Domini’ link: www.wsj.com/articles/ SB123008054671531917.

CELEBRATE Kendall Peterson, manager of the Elephant in the Room, and co-owner KC Musso at the bar of the Healdsburg watering hole.

Photo by Christian Kallen

Photo by Pierre Ratte

SEEING DOUBLE A pair of rainbows hovers in the sky above Healdsburg.

Seasonal Wines for the Holidays

SOME LOCAL CHOICES FOR FEASTING WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY

By Mary Beth Vierra

’Tis the season for festive celebrations, grand family feasts—and questions about holiday wine pairing. What’s a great wine for the holidays? Which wine for prime rib? How about dessert?

And this time of year, drinking seasonally means drinking bigger. Whether red or white, bigger wines carry more richness, body and flavor intensity to warm the soul on chilly days. Think wines with big ripe fruit, higher alcohol or sugar content, and bold, herbaceous, nutty or spicy flavors. And since it’s the holidays, it’s the ideal time to select more elevated versions—meaning it’s time to pull out those special bottles that have been tucked away waiting for the right occasion.

First Course

Chilled Seafood Platters

Dreaming of oysters on the half-shell with a citrusy vinaigrette or salty caviar? One may go for sparkling, and with acidity. The bubbles and acidity enliven the palate and set off the salty brininess of the caviar. Lighter-bodied versions won’t overpower the delicate freshness of the oysters. Bright, citrusy, high-acid white wines from a nonaromatic grape are another excellent choice.

Recommended: Lioco’s Estero Chardonnay, Russian River Valley $38 (still); or Cartograph’s Brut Zero, Russian River Valley $68 (sparkling).

Latkes or Other Fried Foods

One may go for sparkling with acidity. Fried, salty foods are a palate joy when paired with sparkling or high-acid whites. The bubbles and acid cleanse the palate of fat and play deliciously against the salt. Medium-bodied versions meet the weight of the potatoes. Adding applesauce? One may select a wine with a touch of sweetness.

Recommended: Seghesio’s Keyhole Ranch

Vermentino, Russian River Valley ($30); SmithStory’s Brut Sparkling, NV, Mendocino County ($47).

Cheese Board

It’s best to go for fruitrich, high-acid, white wines. Many medium weight, high acid, fruity white wines accommodate a range of cheeses. Vibrant whites with a little extra body match the cheese’s texture and cut through its richness, while its fruit plays up the earthy, fruity, herbal notes of each cheese. Pinot blanc, grenache blanc, chenin blanc or chardonnay are good options.

Recommended: Dutton-Goldfield’s Shop Block Pinot Blanc, Green Valley ($33); Marimar Estate’s La Masía Chardonnay ($44).

Main Course

Glazed Ham with Mustard

One may go bright, fruity. The salty-sweetness of the ham is just gorgeous with high-acid, fruity wines. The wine’s acid matches that of the mustard, while the fruit and acidity set off the meat’s sweet-salt profile. One may choose a wine with a lighter profile to highlight the meat’s delicate flavor. Bright, redfruited pinot noirs, and aromatic, fruity riesling.

Recommended: Bannister’s Dry Riesling, Cole Ranch ($31); Montagne Russe BirchBark Pinot Noir ($44).

Turkey Diners may add the fruit.

For a naturally delicious pairing, one may select a wine with the same flavors as a relish, sauce or side. For the traditional turkey dinner, one may find a wine with cranberry, plum or even spiced apple flavors, perhaps one that has the same aromas as those wafting from the stuffing. Best to avoid tannic wines that double down on the dry turkey. Instead, it’s suggested to go fruit forward. Fruityearthy pinot noir, gamay, Barbera are just a few options. Or one may pair with a rich, warm-spiced chardonnay.

Recommended: Longboard’s Vincenzo Old Vine Carignane, Mendocino ($42); Marine Layer’s Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills ($65).

Prime Rib It’s best to go with tannins. A firmly tannic wine pairs wonderfully with a well-marbled, juicy slab of beef. The ribbons of fat soften the tannins, pulling the fruit flavors forward. A wine with herbal hints bridges nicely to the roast’s herb-rubbed crust. A medium-weight red with good acidity balances the richness of the meat and allows its rare-pink flavors to shine. Cabernet sauvignon, syrah, tempranillo, structured malbecs, Nebbiolo. With horseradish, one may opt for a fruitier version to balance the heat.

Recommended: Stuhlmuller Vineyards’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley ($45); Ramey’s Syrah, Rodgers Creek Vineyard, Petaluma Gap ($65); Benovia’s Cooley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Northern Sonoma ($100).

Beef Tenderloin or Short Ribs

One may go silky and fullbodied, choosing the biggest red blends. Those fall-off-the-bone short ribs and tender beef tenderloin may not have enough fat for youthful, high-tannin reds. But they are a marvel with wines boasting an abundance of darker fruits and voluptuous, silky mouthfeel. This is when to pull out that Super Tuscan or Châteauneuf-duPape that’s been cellaring (and softening). GSM red blends and top-tier young malbecs are smashing.

Recommended: Acorn Hill’s Alegria Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($48) Fritz Winery’s Malbec, Dry Creek Valley $55; Unti Vineyards Cuvée Foudre, Dry Creek Valley ($70).

Dessert Course

Basic rule is to select a wine sweeter than the food. Sweet desserts lower one’s perception of sugar in wine, making a dry wine taste bitter. But when a sweet wine’s sugar is reduced, one is left with decadent, ripe fruit and vibrant, balanced acidity. With apple, pear, lemon and custard desserts, one may look for late harvest or sweet white wines. Classic muscat-based wines are a nice choice for moderately sweet desserts and fresh fruit.

Think wines with big ripe fruit, higher alcohol or sugar content, and bold, herbaceous, nutty or spicy flavors.

Recommended: Toad Hollow’s Risqué Sweet & Sparkling ($19); Bodkin’s Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc ($28, 375 ml). For desserts of chocolate or berries, one may sip late harvest, sweet or port-style

red wines. Moshin Vineyards’s Loco Moshin Zinfandel ($28); Pedroncelli’s Four Grapes Vintage Port ($35) are options.

Mary Beth Vierra is a certified wine educator

and Italian wine scholar. She is founder of Crush Course (crushcoursewine. com), helping trade professionals and enthusiasts navigate the world of wine, and lives in Healdsburg.

SHARE 'Pairing' is caring when it comes to serving wines with food during the holidays.

Photo ourtesy of by Foxys Forest

Making Spirits Bright with Holiday Cocktails

sipper for a holiday gathering.

By Brooke Herron

Whether one is hosting a holiday Happy Hour or dinner party or just looking for inspiration to spice up winter drinks, these wintery, holidayfriendly cocktails made with local ingredients are sure to inspire.

It’s time to polish up the cocktail shaker and stock the bar with local spirits and appropriate glassware to make one’s debut as a celebrity bartender this holiday season, as these cocktails are sure to help make one a star (or at least help get the inlaws pleasantly buzzed).

Eggnog Brandy Alexander Creamy eggnog paired with spiced rum and brandy makes this cocktail the perfect decadent

Instructions: Add all the ingredients to a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake, pour the cocktail into two martini or brandy alexander glasses and fill with ice.

4 oz Clover Eggnog 2 oz Spiced Rum 2 oz Sonoma Distilling Co. Brandy

*Optional: Add a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg and cinnamon to spice things up Here We Go A-Wassailing

A well-spiced riff on a hot-buttered rum, Spirit Works brought in some festive flavors and their own Citrus-Aromatic bitters to compliment their smooth Straight Wheat Whiskey. This cocktail goes down so easy, one will probably want to keep a kettle of hot water ready for refills.

Ingredients: 1 1/2 oz Spirit Works

Distillery Straight Wheat Whiskey 3/4 oz Fresh Lemon Juice

• 3/4 oz Liquid Alchemist Ginger Syrup

• 1/2 oz Liquid Alchemist Apple Spice Syrup

• 1/2 Sleeve (25 drops)

Spirit Works Distillery “The One” Bitters

• 1 1/2 oz Boiling Water 1/2 Tbsp Butter

Instructions: Begin by preheating a mug with hot water (make sure to pour this water out before adding the cocktail!). Blend all ingredients until emulsified and frothy. Pour into the pre-heated mug and garnish with a bit of fresh nutmeg. Enjoy!

Link to cocktail kit: club.spiritworksdistillery.com/product/HereWe-Go-A-Wassailing-Kit

Pomegranate

Gin Fizz Light, fresh undertones of ginger balanced with the bright, fresh notes of

gin botanicals and pomegranate make this Pomegranate Gin Fizz a great option for a sunny, California winter holiday gathering.

Ingredients 1 1/2 oz Griffo Scott Street Gin

• 1 oz Pomegranate Juice 1/2 oz Lime Juice 1/4 oz Morrison Kitchen Ginger Syrup

• 2 oz Fever Tree Ginger Soda

Instructions: Place Scott Street Gin, pomegranate juice, lime juice and ginger syrup together in a cocktail shaker. Give it a good shake and strain over fresh ice. Top with ginger beer and garnish with pomegranate seeds.

Under the Mistletoe

Ingredients:

• 2 oz. Alley 6 Harvest Gin 3/4 oz. Spiced Pomegranate Syrup (or Grenadine)

• 4 oz. Sparkling Rosé

• Absinthe Rinse

Instructions: Rinse a coupe with absinthe. Shake gin, syrup and bitters with ice. Strain into prepared glass, top with sparkling wine and garnish with fresh rosemary. Singe the tips of the rosemary for extra fragrance.

Spiced Pomegranate Syrup

Combine equal amounts pure pomegranate juice and granulated sugar in a small saucepan. Heat over low, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add in two cinnamon sticks, a few whole star anise and about a dozen whole cloves. Heat for about five minutes, then remove from heat and let spices steep as syrup cools. Remove solids and store cooled syrup in a glass bottle in the refrigerator. Use within three weeks.

This refreshing punch is on the lighter side for a winter holiday cocktail, making it another perfect California Christmas (or Hanukkah) cocktail. The ginger and cranberries give it that Christmas season flavor profile (and look), while the blood oranges brighten things up with their lively acidity.

Ingredients

• 2 cups Hanson Organic Ginger Vodka 1 cup Cranberry Juice Cocktail

• 1 cup Fresh Squeezed Blood Oranges

• 1 cup Simple Syrup

• top with Club Soda

Instructions

Combine Hanson Vodka, cranberry juice, orange juice and simple syrup and chill. Just before serving, add club soda and fresh Ice. Garnish with sliced blood oranges and fresh cranberries.

2 dashes Orange Bitters

Hanson of Sonoma Cranberry Ginger Punch

Photo by Risa Weaver-Enion

Warm Holiday Greetings

Best Wishes and

As we reflect on the year and share the spirit of the season, We celebrate our friends and family, and revel in the natural beauty around us We honor the partnership of our local growers, producers, and makers We recognize and commend our talented and dedicated employee owners And we especially thank our loyal customers and community, who make what we do possible We wish you good health, peace and love in the new year

Warm Holiday Greetings and Best Wishes from Oliver’s Markets.