Edition 41 - October 2010

BAJA GOOD LIFE CLUB MEMBERS GUIDE October / octubre 2010

No. 41 - www.bajagoodlifeclub.com

LIVE

BAJA CALIFORNIA •

WORK

•

PLAY

•

INVEST

•

RETIRE

Two months alone on an island in the Sea of Cortez

by Graham Mackintosh

PLUS:

• Todos Santos - Baja’s Magical City • Creative Building for a “Green” Home • Centavo’s Two Cents: BAJA “BIJOU” • Clam Beach RV Resort

M

EM ON BE LY RS

• and so much more...

www . bajagoodlifeclub . com

Tecate

El Descanso (1767)

s ile

La Mision

Bahia Todos Santos La Bufadora

Yuma

2D

Rosarito Beach m 53

Los Algodones

Mexicali

CONSTITUTION OF 1857 NATIONAL PARK

San Miguel (1797)

Guadalupe (1834)

Valle de Guadalupe

Ensenada Ojes Negros Maneadero 29 M

1791

Santo Tomas 1780

San Vicente

8

wy

Puerto Penasco

SAN PEDRO MARTIR NATIONAL PARK

National Astronomic Observatory

Santo Domingo (1775)

18 M

PACIFIC OCEAN

Co ast

al H

Valle la Trinidad

Colonet

Bahia Colonet

Ne w

Tucson, AZ

Lukeville, AZ Sonoyta

Gulfo de Santa Clara

Heroes de la Independencia

M 23

(Rocky Point)

San Felipe

Colonia Vicente Guerrero

Punta Estrella Valle de los Gigantes

San Quintin

Nogales

Laguna Percebu Puertecitos

35 M

Carborca

!

get gas if southbound

El Rosario

Isla Miramar Isla Lobos Isla Encantada Isla San Luis

San Fernando (1772)

1774

77

Bahia Rosario

Santa Ana

M

Cataviña

Calamajue 64 M Santa Maria (1767)

Isla Angel de la Guarda

Bahia de Los Angeles

San Borja (1762)

33 M

Punta Prieta

Bahia LA turnoff

40 M

ia

rn

Bahia Maria

ora

lifo Ca

Chapala

Bahia Blanco

Son

Bahia San Luis Gonzaga

ja

Ba

Hermosillo

Isla Tiburon

Santa Rosalillita

Bahia Santa Rosalillita

Rosarito

Isla San Lorenzo Isla San Esteban

Puerto de Santo Domingo

Bahia de Sebastian Vizcaino PUNTA FALSA PUNTA EUGENIA Laguna BAHIA Ojo TORTUGAS Bahia Tortugas de Liebre

get gas if northbound

Bahia San Rafael

Villa Jesus Maria

Guerrero Negro

LF GU

Lighthouse

Santa Gertrudis (1752)

Vizcaino

San Carlos

CA

Isla Tortuga

46 M

Santa Rosalia

1705 1728

46 M

Baj

Isla San Marcos

Guadalupe (1720)

Mulegé

El Coyote

Bahia de Concepcion Bahia San Nicolas

of

86 M

z) rte Co

Bahia San Basilio

San Juanico

ia S

Bahia de Ballenas

a (Se

PACIFIC OCEAN

Bahia Santa Ines

orn alif aC

Bahia de Ballenas

NIA OR

LIF

San Ignacio

PUNTA ABREOJOS

Guaymas

OF

BAHIA ASUNCION Bahia Asuncion PUNTA PRIETA Bahia San Hipolito LA BOCANA

91 M 1720

La Purisma

ur

1699

1697

San Javier

Loreto Isla del Carmen

San Juan Malibat (1705)

LEGEND:

Ciudad Insurgentes

- Pemex Gas and/or Diesel - Highway Sign - Marina

Isla Santa Cruz San Luis Gonzaga (1737)

CIUDAD CONSTITUCION

Puerto San Carlos

Bahia Santa Maria Bahia Magdalena

Isla San Jose Delores (1721)

Isla San Francisco Santa Rita

Bahia Almejas

Bahia de la Paz Isla Espiritu Santo

Isla Santa Margarita

133 M

- Mission Site - Jesuit (17)

Isla Monserrat Isla Santa Catalina

- Page of city map & directory - Airport

Isla Danzante

80 M

12 M

La Paz Isla Cerralvo

(1683–1767) 1720

- Mission Site - Franciscan (9)

Bahia la Ventana

(1768–1773)

Bahia Muertos

- Mission Site - Dominican (1)

70 M

(1774–1834)

Todos Santos

SIERRA DE LA LAGUNA NATIONAL PARK Santa Rosa (1730)

Pescadero

48 M

BAJA CALIFORNIA

Tijuana

Santiago (1721)

49

Bahia las Palmas

Los Barriles

M

1730

Cabo San Lucas

M 19

San Jose del Cabo

GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE -

BAJA GOOD LIFE CLUB

GUIDE TO DISCOUNTS & THE BAJA GOOD LIFE www.bajagoodlifeclub.com | 877luvmex1@gmail.com | 1-877-luvmex1

NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHERS

Here we go again, a new format. What can we say, it’s not in our nature to give up. For nearly four years we have been producing this publication and the last two have been a battle.

How could we have known that just two years after starting the magazine, that Baja would have such an economic downturn? But is it going to stop us, hell no! We love Baja and will continue to do all we can to promote this amazing peninsula as a place to play, visit or call home.

Desperate times require desperate measure, and although this isn’t really desperate, it’s certainly a measure of our commitment.

Just two months ago, we had to make one of our toughest decision, to provide editorial via the Internet only and provide the member discounts in print through direct mail. This was tough for us personally because we absolutely love publishing about Baja. But when we started getting emails and calls from our members, that loved it as much as we did, we had to find a way to bring it back. So here we are.

The new format may not have all the color of the previous editions, but the editorial is back and we you’re pleased, we are. We can continue to provide you with fun and useful information about the place we all love. Our Baja merchants can also share their great products and services and our writers can share their passions. We are very happy to be here and feel blessed to be able to continue sharing Baja with you.

Thank you, John & Rachel Pack

JOIN THE BAJA GOOD LIFE CLUB

USE YOUR CARD AND SAVE BIG ON BAJA!

The “Baja Good Life Club” is your Guide to the Baja Good Life. The travel and discount club for visitors and residents of the Baja Peninsula. Membership includes discounts on Mexican auto insurance, emergency evacuation services, an annual subscription to this printed guide, discounts on products and services throughout Baja. www.bajagoodlifeclub.com | US: 877-LUVMEX1 | bajagoodlifeclub@gmail.com

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Merchant Discounts Membership Card Discount Mexican Auto Insurance Discount Emergency Evacuation Insurance Baja Event Discounts BGLC Member Sticker Much more...

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OCTOBER CALENDAR BAJA CALENDAR EVENTS are published weekly in the Baja Report.

Subscribe to the Baja Report at www.bajagoodlifeclub.com The following events are Baja Good Life Sponsored Events, which are events we highly recommend. Details of these events can be found featured on bajagoodlife.com community and in the Baja Report email newsletter. The events take place on the dates indicated.

PUERTO NUEVO - Baja Book Festival

Saturday, October 9, 2010 10am - 5pm. Words, wine, food, art and more, at the Baja Book Festival at the Joanna Jones Galeria Y Cafe 47.6 kilometer on the free road, Cantamar exit on toll road, just South of Puerto Nuevo. SHOW YOUR CARD Baja Good Life members receive a 10% discount on you purcahse. Sponsored by Baja Good Life Club. More info: wwwbajabookfestival.com or 619-630-1170 or 619-318-5347.

SAN FELIPE - Red Cross fund raiser featuring guitarist Javier Batiz.

Saturday Oct. 16th, 7 - 10PM, The Red Cross office in San Felipe is in danger of closing due to financial problems. The legendary guitarist Javier Batiz, who taught Carlos Santana to play rock guitar, is also socially aware of this problem. He will be donating his talent for this very worthwhile event. The proceeds will be donated by the San Felipe Lions Club, directly to the San Felipe Red Cross Director. We hope you will support this event.

SAN FELIPE - OctoberFest

Saturday Oct. 23rd from 10am to 6pm; Held on the “Malecon”. There will be vendors serving a variety of “German” style cuisine and Arts & Crafts booths. Admission will be $10.00 and you will receive 5 drink tickets. SHOW YOUR CARD Baja Good Life members receive ONE FREE ticket with admission. Each ticket is good for one of 10 different beers. This is going to be fun and exciting event brought to you by San Felipe Lions Club & Sponsored by Baja Good Life Club.http://www.bajagoodlifeclub.com/OctoberFest

LA PAZ - 2nd Annual La Paz Festival D’arte 2010

November 28, 2010. Artist’s Get Ready! With even more help from the State of Baja Sur, City of La Paz, this year promises improvements over last year’s enormously successful Festival. www.festivaldarte.com. Location: Marina Palmira. More info call or email Kathy Bezy at (612)121-5886 - KathyBezy@goldrush.com SUBMIT YOUR CALENDAR EVENT AT WWW.BAJAGOODLIFE.COM EVENT SECTION.

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S

ometimes when the world seems too testy and turbulent I yearn for a little time alone, ideally alone reveling in the silence and grandeur of Baja California.

That quest for solitude has taken me around most of the coast of Baja, up into its highest mountains and - in companionship with a burro - along the trail of the missionaries. In January 2006 it led me out to a colorful mountainous island in the Sea of Cortez.

Isla Angel de la Guarda is the second largest island in that sea. Separated from the Baja peninsula and Bahia de los Angeles by the deep and treacherous Ballenas channel, it remains uninhabited apart from a few temporary fishcamps.

John Steinbeck, in the Log from the Sea of Cortez, recounted his visit to the island in 1940: The long, snake-like coast of Guardian Angel lay to the east of us; a desolate and fascinating coast. It is forty-two miles long, ten miles wide in places, waterless and uninhabited. It is said to be crawling with rattlesnakes and iguanas, and a persistent rumor of gold comes from it.

Few people have explored it or even gone more than a few steps from the shore…

After spending time ashore, he added: “We want very much to go back to Guardian Angel with time and supplies.” Steinbeck never returned. But I was perfectly happy to venture out for him with two months supply of food, a thirty pack of beer and fifty gallons of water.

I bought a used kayak, a stable but slow two-seater “sit-on-top” that bore the scars of a former life as a fishing and duck hunting platform on the Colorado River. It was bright blue with a thin camouflage of streaks of gray paint.

It had seen better days, but with a 600 lb carrying capacity it would do for my purposes of coastal exploration.

Confronted by sudden blasting winter winds and swirling currents, boaters regularly get into trouble and occasionally lose their lives in and around LA Bay, so I had no intention of paddling fifteen miles out to Angel de la Guarda.

My plan was to arrange a panga ride and spend about two months exploring from one or more base camps. I wanted, as far as I was able, to get to know the island, its history and geology, the people and creatures that come and go, to photograph it, experience it, and

perhaps, if the spirit moves me, make it the subject of my fourth Baja book.

The islands of the Sea of Cortez enjoy overlapping recognition and protection as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve (1995), a World Heritage Site or “site of outstanding value to humanity,” (2005), and a Mexican government designated and controlled “Area for the Protection of Wildlife (2000).”

One needs a permit to be there. I visited the “Islas del Golfo de California” office at LA Bay, and paid my fees, which were 40 pesos a day.

Though I learned later I could have bought an annual “passport” that covers entry to all the National Parks in Mexico, including the islands of the Sea of Cortez, for about 400 pesos.

I had to wait a week for a day calm enough to attempt the crossing and I put the time to good use interviewing LA Bay residents about their Guardian Angel experiences. My head was duly filled with fascinating information and dire warnings about not only wind, current and tide, but also precipitous cliffs and canyons, feral cats, poachers, ravens, and rattlesnakes. Above all, I was informed that I was about to venture alone into one of the major thoroughfares of drug trafficking. “We hear pangas out there on still nights; and you don’t need much imagination to guess what they are up to,” was a typical comment.

Steinbeck had said: “The difficulties of exploration of the island might be very great, but there is a drawing power about its very forbidding aspect.” I was unshakably drawn. So on January 7, 2006, I helped load my kayak, gear, and provisions into a local panga.

I ended up camping on the west coast, a third of the way down from the northern tip, at

the sheltered north end of a milelong bay. There was an abandoned panga there above the high tide line which I incorporated into my campsite.

The first evening on the island was warm, still, and spectacularly colorful. It augured well for the days ahead, and I retired to my tent and sleeping bag feeling deeply privileged to be there.

About 1:30 A.M., after the moon had set, I was woken from my slumbers by the sound of a panga approaching. The three or four Spanish speaking occupants began shining a powerful light over my kayak and belongings. I thought it best not to emerge from my tent so they wouldn’t know there was just me inside. Fortunately, after a few minutes, they went elsewhere. I dressed then scouted up and down the coast to see if anyone had landed.

The experience underlined the precariousness of my situation. Next day, I hid three gallons of water close to my campsite, and took a large canvas bag of food and basic survival gear into a dead-end canyon and buried it beneath brush and rocks.

Keeping busy is a great way to deal with

anxiety. Although it was January, I needed shade so I rigged up a tarp between the old panga and a couple of long branches I’d found on the beach.

And kayaking on a calm day was always relaxing and fascinating. Several times I spotted sea turtles and found myself surrounded by schools of yellowtail. Some of the whale breaching activity out in the appropriately named Canal de las Ballenas was spectacular.

NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL LIABILITY POLICIES STARTING AT $83.10 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE - Huge simultaneous explosions of spray often gave the impression of salvos of naval gunfire.

Back in camp I enjoyed the company of black and white oyster catchers which often waddled along the shore in pairs just a few yards away, prodding beneath the rocks with their long orange-red beaks.

Ravens on the other hand were a real nuisance, pecking at my possessions with their sharp beaks. I quickly learned to “raven-proof” my camp when I was away. Even so, they managed to puncture my solar shower bag, vandalize a foam pad, and scatter all the batteries in my solar charger.

I was alone almost two weeks before I had my first conversation. An intrepid Canadian kayaker paddled into my bay. We spent two days hiking and exploring together and reached a point in the middle of the island offering a fantastic view of both coasts, and over to the Baja peninsula and the coast of Sonora.

The kayaker was clearly concerned about the return journey to LA Bay. Even though the seas hadn’t fully settled from three days of strong northerly winds, he started back before dawn battling five feet swells and was well out of sight by first light. Sharing his anxiety, I climbed a nearby peak and willed the wind to stay down for his crossing. When he was close to Smith Island, almost within LA Bay, we managed to exchange a few words by VHF handheld radio. I was jubilant to know he was safe.

A few days after he left, I hiked across the mountainous backbone of the island. It always took a little faith to leave my kayak and all my possessions unattended all day.

January was delightful: not a mosquito or a no-see-um, and no scorpions or rattlesnakes, hardly even a fly or an ant. And it was surprisingly warm—the thermometer rarely dropped below the fifties at night, and often climbed above 75 degrees in the day.

The evening of February 6, having drunk my last can of beer about ten days before, I found myself looking up at a lovely moonlit gallon minikeg of Heineken. A few hours earlier the keg and a touching Valentine’s card from my wife had been dropped via parachute into the sea by a friend piloting a Cessna. I didn’t even have to kayak out to get it; some wild wind and waves drove it quickly to shore.

Ironically, I found myself with almost as much beer as water! I’d spent most of the previous three days making drinking water by distilling seawater—a reliable but slow and tedious process providing about a cup an hour

and necessitating constant tending and supervision of the still. Fortunately, there was an abundance of driftwood for fuel.

February 9, I was climbing north into the mountains when I noticed two pangas racing purposefully towards my campsite. My cozy month-long routine of exploring, beachcombing, and looking at life through camera and

binocular lenses was about to come to a sudden end.

I dashed the two miles back and found myself dripping sweat in the presence of seven rather rough-looking marijuana puffing pangueros from Sonora. With the whole of Guardian Angel Island to chose from, they

had set up their camp right beside my tent and tarp-covered possessions.

I tried diplomatically going with the flow but witnessing my clean, well-ordered campsite degenerating into an ecologically-challenged illicit fishcamp with containers of diesel and

gasoline all around, and finding myself totally out of sync with neighbors diving all night for lobsters, clams, and sea cucumbers, and then sleeping most of the day, I knew the time had come to move on. The need to move became urgent when their buddies in two more pangas pulled in from the mainland.

One of the pangueros agreed to take me to the splendid sheltered bay of Este Ton, about 9 miles south. The kindly poachers gave me 5 gallons of water and promised to drop off any extra they had on their way back across the Gulf.

At my new home it was too windy to put up my tent. I tried kayaking inside the bay and found the paddle nearly ripped from my hands as I struggled to keep from being blown out into an increasingly wild and dangerous sea.

With some difficulty I finally erected my campsite in the mouth of a little canyon. That night the wind shifted and came blasting from the northeast down the canyon threatening to rip my tent to shreds.

Next morning with the wind moderating, and better able to appreciate the stunning beauty all around, I busied myself cleaning up the beach and collecting driftwood, rope, pieces of fishing net, and other useful stuff. For shade I cut down some agave stalks and began making a sturdy framework that I could cover with the netting.

My new neighbors included several large endemic chuckwallas (Sauromalus hispidus), a pair of nesting ospreys and a belted kingfisher.

One morning I heard the kingfisher’s cries of distress and saw a falcon attacking it. The kingfisher stayed out over the bay and dropped into the sea every time the falcon closed. The splash seemed to confuse and deter the predator. Amazingly, the falcon tired first and broke away to land on the rocks. The gallant kingfisher flew in the opposite direction and made his escape.

There are no coyotes on the island. But one of the poachers showed me the scars on his arm where he said he’d been attacked by what he called a Dracula cat. I saw cat tracks and scat all over, and several nights the silence was rent by their chilling screams, but so far I hadn’t seen a live cat. At my new location, I came across three of them, all dead. And these hairy beasts were not cute kitties. Grotesque in death, with ugly protruding fangs, they indeed looked like little vampires or werewolves.

I wondered what had killed them.

As the days warmed, the biting and nuisance flies began to wake up, and I had my continued on page 12

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Todos Santos - The Magical City of Baja’s Pacific Cape GPS: 29 30’ 0 N 114 45’ 0 W

by Karri Moser

to the area as their prime source of inspiration and business. Todos Santos’ status as an artist’s colony is reinforced by the many galleries, over a dozen, which are peppered throughout the town. Galeria Logan, with the works of Jill Logan, the N.E. Hayes Galeria, Galeria de Todos Santos, the Charles Stewart Galeria, Galeria Wall, with the works of Catherine Wall, Libusche, and a shop featuring the works of Wendy Faith, glass artist, all reflect the importance the arts have within this town. With renowned and accomplished artists with their own Todos Santos offers a large bariety of business and has one of the largest galleries working alongside writers, art communities in Baja. musicians, and other artisans in the streets, Todos Santos is a true artist colony. odos Santos is located on the pacific Paint and canvas are not the only form of arside of Baja California Sur. With Cabo tistic expression found overflowing through the San Lucas approximately 45 miles to the streets of Todos Santos. The town hosts many south and La Paz to the North, Todos Santos is festivals throughout the year to showcase the perfectly located to all of the amenities and atabundance of local talent. The historic theater in tractions both towns have to offer visitors and town hosts plays and film festivals. There is an natives alike. It also sits apart from both of these artisans craft fair and frequent musical concerts communities with its unique mix of old and new. in the Plaza for visitors and locals to enjoy. There The people of Todos Santos take great pride in are plenty of shops highlighting intricate ceramic their heritage and history, while striving to make goods, leather goods and handmade clothing for visitors and those looking for a great place to visitors and locals to explore. live and work feel welcomed. Todos Santos exTo get a real feel for the town’s historical udes such a special appeal that the town has the significance, a visit to the Casa de Cultura-The honor of being the only town in Baja California Professor Nestor Agundez Cultural Center-is a Sur to earn the distinction of “Pueblo Magico” must. The center has a library, gallery and work(magical city). shop. There is also a museum with five exhibiOver the past few years, Todos Santos has tion rooms to wander through. Todos Santos inadvertently become an artisan’s village. With was known as the sugarcane capital of Baja in its oasis-like feel with plenty of green compared the 19th century. The remnants of the El Molino to the surrounding dessert landscape and the Sugar Mill still give insight to the importance of awe-inspiring scenes of natural beauty everythis past industrial giant’s impact on the local where you look, it is easy to see why so many culture. To get even more of a complete glimpse established professional artists have flocked

T

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into the past of Todos Santos, there is a historic house tours festival. Music buffs will surely want to stop at the Hotel California. Be forewarned, the Eagles never stayed there and the song does not pertain to this establishment in any way; but that hasn’t stopped people from stopping in and taking part in the fun urban legend that mistakenly surrounds this bar.

Todos Santos is as much a nature lover’s destination as well as a haven for those who enjoy the arts. The unbelievably clean beaches are perfect for swimming, shell collecting and strolling along with a loved one. It is advisable to check local conditions, as some areas are simply too rough to swim safely. With that said, the shores of Todos Santos are ideal for surfers. Many surfing competitions are held here throughout the year. The waters off of Todos Santos are also special in the eyes of anyone who relishes the thought of whale watching. Grey whales make

The coast along Todos Santos offers world class surfing

the trek south to the waters of Todos Santos in January, February, and March. They give birth in the waters and often will tout their young close enough for onlookers to enjoy. The water is perfect for fishing also. There is a plethora of marlin, yellowtail, swordfish and wahoo for fisherman to try their hand at catching.

MEMBERS PROMO CODE FOR ADDITIONAL 10% DISCOUNT: M4D7O04RUL

NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL LIABILITY POLICIES STARTING AT $83.10 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE - While the allure of the sea makes Todos Santos a perfect destination, there are plenty of land activities to enjoy also. There is a bird sanctuary for bird watching, eco-tours and hiking opportunities in the Sierra Laguna Mountains.

The “Pueblo Magico” Todos Santos indisputably has the best climate in Baja Sur, amazing artistic talent and opportunities, a distinctive history to learn about and safe picture perfect beaches to explore. With so much in the borders of one tiny town, Todos Santos has experiences waiting to be treasured by anyone.

RESTAURANTS / BARS DISCOUNTS

ROSARITO BEACH, BC El Meson Restaurant • 20% discount. Not valid with other discounts or promotions. Not valid during special events.

Expired December 15th, 2011 • Phone: +52 (661) 614 9883 Café del Mar Restaurant • 20% discount. Not valid with other discounts or promotions. Not valid during special events.

Expired December 15th, 2011 • Phone: +52 (661) 614 9883 CANTAMAR, BC Joanna Jones Galeria y Cafe • Member Discount: 10% discount • Phone: 661-614-0819

Fatboy’s Pizza • 10% Off any Large Pizza • MX: 686-577-4092 Rumors Bar & Grill • 20% off second entree of equal or lesser value.

• MX: 686-577-3168 El Polloyon - Pollo Asado • 10% on total order • MX: 686-113-8042 Juanitos (El Colorado) • FREE Beverage with Meal • Phone: Los Arcos Restaurant • 15% discount on food and beverage • Phone: Rabbit Pizza • Free Beverage with purchase on Tuesdays • MX: 686-577-0987 La Cabaña Restaurant • 10% off Purchase • Not Available Roadrunner Cafe • 15% off all day on Wednesdays • 686-227-7668

LORETO, BCS Loreto Islas Restaurant • Free Drink with Meal • Phone: 01-52-613-135 2341

SHOPPING DISCOUNTS

SAN FELIPE, BC Baja Ink Spot • 10% Off on Tattoos.

• MX: 686-577-0746

Baja Beauty • Buy 2 Trailer Trash T-shirt receive 15% off • 686-105-7019 Pelicano Market • 5% on Wednesdays • 686-577-0743 LORETO, BCS El Caballo Blanco Bookstore • 10% Off any purchase • MX: 613-116-5374 Dali Market • 10% off Tuesday and Thursdays • Phone: (613) 135-2477 LOS BARRILES, BCS Copper River Designs • 10% Off jewelry purchase • 624-141-0125

Silver and Bone-carved Jewelry Creations

ENSENADA, BC Restaurant La Bufadora • 25% off Your Order excluding Thursdays • Phone: 646-154-2527

(686) 122-2668

SAN FELIPE, BC The Pavilion Restaurant • Buy 1 meal get 2nd meal 50% off • MX: 686-577-0003 The Sweet Spot • One free domestic (house) drink with meal.

• MX: 686-209-6369

“Big Surf”

30” x 40” oil on canvas $2700

by JILL LOGAN

686-577-3168

613-116-5374

www.bajacaballobooks.com Loreto BCS Mexico

El Caballo Blanco NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL FULL COVERAGE POLICIES starting at $152.55 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

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Centavo’s Two Cents: BAJA “BIJOU” Hot in Baja in the summer?

W

ell, let’s just say yes about that, as we dart in and out of our vehicles racing to any building that has air conditioning to get out of the sweltering heat.

In our little town of San Felipe, siestas last longer in these midyear months. We are not always sure when we will wake up just to do as little as possible. We know that most people

by Penny Nask

who like to travel are long gone to cooler places; destinations without tanning lotions and buckets of iced cold beer.

Those of us who stay here ride the roads like warriors from some abandoned desert acropolis, carrying coolers for groceries that would wilt, melt, or explode without them.

Picture us saying “We’re just going to stay in Baja for the summer.”

Neighbors are careening out of their driveways in motor homes, waving to us in disbelief with smirks barely hidden on their faces. Yes...well, have fun!

This is my third summer here and my usual dialog with people who are passionate enough to be outside is this.... “Was it this hot last summer? I don’t remember it being this hot “. The question always defies a factual answer.

You will not see our Malecon deserted. Families travel here with their children who want

nothing more than to play on the beach and look for shells. School is forgotten and camping in the sand is a stunt these visitors have down pat. There are tents and tarps, clothing hanging and drying, and portable barbeques that maintain their heat all day ready for the next meal.

Our beach becomes a tented sculpture of colors, a nomadic odyssey for those that want to enjoy the ocean. You can do that on a sailboat, a jet ski, a ponga, a banana boat, a kayak, a tube, a float, a boogie board, or a noodle. If you didn’t bring these objects you can rent or buy them here. Because of the immense salt content of our Cortez Sea you can float on the water without these gadgets as if you were as light as air!

I marvel how ingenious our town can be socializing in weather that almost forces you to sleep...or read...or watch movies rather than be outside. If you live or are a visitor at El Dorado Ranch you can dip your toes or body into their pool while watching a movie at night on a huge portable blow up movie screen!

Mar Caribe Sur #1088-4

Across from ABC Bus Depot

686-577-0708

californiadental@hotmail.com - californiaoptical@hotmail.com NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL LIABILITY POLICIES STARTING AT $83.10 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE - You can have dinner and drinks and plop yourself in a lounge chair... and wait for a plate of popcorn delivered to you mid movie.

“Poolside movies” do take a bit of adjustment. It helps if you have taken a dip into the pool before the movie starts. The ocean breeze will cool you off through most of it.

A few clouds float by, the stars twinkle, the evening birds fly above us. I watch it all.

A Dive-in Movie! Doubt my traveling neighbors are doing that.

HEALTH & BEAUTY DISCOUNTS ROSARITO BEACH, BC Las Rocas Spa • 10% discount in service of your choice. Not valid with facials. Not valid with any other discounts or promotions. Valid until December 15th, 2010 • Phone: +52 (661) 614 9883 SAN FELIPE, BC Consultorio Dental – Dr Jason Arias Corpus • 30% off Dental Cleaning • MX: 686-577-6212 Miller Dental • 10% discount on dental fillings • Phone: 686-214-9221 California Optical • 10% Off SECOND PAIR OF Single-vision glasses.

• MX: 686-577-0708 Botica Sagrado Corazon • 15% Off all Medications.

• MX: 686-577-1294 Santa Fe Pharmacy • 10% off All Generic Meds.

• MX: 686-576-0546

Medicorama Farmacia-Pharmacy • Member Discount: 50% off all Generic Medications • Phone: 011-52-686-577-6261

SAN QUINTIN, BC Posada Don Diego R.V. & Motel • 10% OFF RV & MOTEL • MX: 616-166-2181

Back to Life • 10% for physical therapy treatment • 686-576-039

LORETO, BCS El Tiburon Casitas • 10% off with min. 2 days • MX: 613-135-2536

ALL OF BAJA Binational Emergency Medical Care Committee • 11% off Annual Membership • 619-425-5080

LODGING & ACCOMMODATIONS DISCOUNTS ROSARITO BEACH,BC Bobby’s Baja by the Sea • Stay 2 nights get the 3rd night FREE • 619-955-7710 Las Rocas Resort & Spa • Upgrade Package with reservation, includes: Dinner for 2 at El Meson Restaurant, 2 Welcome Margaritas, & Yoga Classes.

• Phone: +52 (661) 614 9883 SAN FELIPE, BC VIP Earth Events • 10% OFF with min. 3-day • US: 619-203-5129 San Felipe Resort Rentals • Member Discount: 10% discount • Phone: US Toll Free 877-256-8060 ENSENADA, BC Clam Beach RV Resort • One free night on a 2 night stay • Phone: (619) 335-5487

Do you have a business you would like to listed as a discount?

Let us know about it: bajagoodlifeclub@gmail.com

Hotel Santa Fe • $71.00 USD per Room Per Night (Includes Daily Breakfast Buffet - All taxes) • Phone: 1 877 2172 6823 USA & CAN - 01 800 472 6823 MEX LORETO BCS

SUN * FUN * BEACH 3 Nights, breakfast, & 2 tours for 2 people

ONLY $310.00 usd

Email Adriana Torres for “Aug. 2010 Offer for Baja Good Life Club!”

reservations@hotelsantafeloreto.com 613-134-0400 or 1-800-472-6822

Hotel Santa Fe • Adventure Package - $354.00 USD Tours with ONLY $310.00 usd 3 nights Stay • Phone: 1 877 2172 6823 USA & CAN - 01 800 472 6823 MEX LORETO BCS

SUN * FUN * BEACH 3 Nights, breakfast, & 2 tours for 2 people

Email Adriana Torres for “Aug. 2010 Offer for Baja Good Life Club!”

reservations@hotelsantafeloreto.com 613-134-0400 or 1-800-472-6822

LOS BARRILES, BCS Hotel Los Pescadores • 12% Off. • MX: 624 121 8786 CABO SAN LUCAS, BCS Hotel Mar de Cortez • FREE Room Upgrade.

• US: 1-800 347-8821

ACTIVITIES DISCOUNTS

ENSENADA, BC Baja Country Club • $25 Green Fees for Women and Seniors.

• US: 866-599-0631 MULEGE, BCS Ecomundo de Eduardo / Ed’s World • 10% Off water activities • MX: 615-101-0969 LA PAZ, BCS Seascape Charters • 10% discount on charter fees • USA & Canada: 707 237 6784

Walking distances to North Beach for all you Wind & Kite Surfers

www.fisheastcape.com Los Barriles BCS Mexico

NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL FULL COVERAGE POLICIES starting at $152.55 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

10 - WWW.BAJAGOODLIFECLUB.COM

Clam Beach RV Resort

- A masterful work in progress.

by John Pack

L

ike an artists not wanting to show their unfinished work, Bernardo Ruiz asked us to hold off on publicizing his RV park until it was complete. A project Bernardo and his family have been working on for 5 years.

Clam Beach RV Resort may be incomplete in the eyes of Bernardo, but from the perspective of this writer, a Baja RV nomad, this park was on it’s way to becoming a masterpiece, and we just couldn’t keep it secret.

Clam Beach RV Resort at kilometer 71 on the Rosarito / Ensenada toll road has the signs of work in progress, but not because of half completed construction, but rather from the stack of bricks near the soon to be completed club house and the halfdozen nearly completed RV sites and clearly mark future home of the pool.

However, the other 90% of the park was complete and it was clear that much thought and care went into it’s design and amenities.

The park has 82 sites offering pull-through, back-in and pull-in, each equipped with 30 and 50 amps, water and sewer hookups. The

bathroom facilities are large and clean, with shower areas, each complete with private dressing room and a laundry room with coin operated washers and dryers.

The office is conveniently located near the entrance gate and offers high-speed wi-fi service. Clam Beach has one of the nicest beaches in the area; large clean and nearly a mile long and the park staff help to keep it clean, both by providing garbage pickup and cleaning up trash after those that chose not to use the provided trash bins.

The park also offers complete security with on-site management and a periodical police drive-through, although I can’t imagine there every being a need.

The park is quiet and even when it’s busy, it is well-managed and pleasant; we know because we spent the Mexican Independence weekend here. The park has daily trash pickup and is well-groomed with regular maintenance of the lush lawns and the young palms separating many of the RV sites and scattered throughout the park.

Clam Beach also offers an extensive beach camping area on the north-side of the resort, which has it’s own restroom and shower facilities, separate from the RV guests.

Daily rates start as low as $33.60 per day for an RV site, or as low as $392 per month with all amenities included. It’s true the park is not yet complete, but it is very close and for

many, all the amenities that they would ever need are already in place. After all, its only the recreation areas that are not complete, and who really needs that when you have a beach like theirs?

Clam Beach RV Resort can be reached via email at clambeachrv@gmail.com or by phone

at 646-155-0976. If you’re dialing from the US, call 011-52-646-155-0976. Clam Beach does not have a website, but I understand one will be available soon. If you’re a Baja Good Life Member, show your card and receive a third night FREE on a two night stay.

Latitude: 32° 4’26.86”N Longitude: 116°52’43.08”W

w w w. a b a t t i - g u t i e r r e z . c o m U S D i r e c t : 760 - 4 8 2 - 8 68 1 M e x C e l l : 6 86 - 2 3 1 - 7 5 0 4 O f f i c e : 68 6- 5 7 6 - 0 2 23

NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL LIABILITY POLICIES STARTING AT $83.10 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE - 11

Creative Building for a “Green” Baja Home

by John Pack

W

hat would bring a woman in her 50s to the desert from the wet Pacific northwest? It is likely a sense of adventure and freedom. With the experience of designing and building her last three homes, and the desire to build again—along with the freedom Mexico provides . . . to try anything . . . to build anything—in addition to the lower cost of building was all the motivation Andrena Joyce needed.

San Felipe offered a quiet and peaceful environment, like-minded friends and a lower cost of living. A place where creative talents can expand and flow into all aspects of life.

Inspired by friend and business partner, Melody Ashley, who first started tire construction with a fence around her property, Andrena Joyce, a local artist, designed a house made entirely of tires.

Choosing to build a “green” house came easy for Joyce, both as an artist and having already built “green” in the past. Originally from Oregon,

she designed and built a log home with her family. She also built a solar home in El Dorodo Ranch.

Choosing to use old tires was easy—they were free, plus the material is both strong and smart. The tires are packed with red dirt then wrapped with wire and cement to cover, providing excellent insulation. It also cleaned up tires in the desert and along the roadside. They’re organic looking . . . a Flintstone of Bedrock look.

There are no fumes from tires, and it is NOT a friendly environment for insects or mold. The walls are two-feet thick, providing amazing strength and footing and incredible insulation for the hot Mexican summers, plus the thickness in the walls significantly cuts down on outside noise. In addition, these homes will still be

standing when others are long gone!

Tires are free for the pickin’! They create a unique structure and clean up the environment by using a material that does not decompose. Joyce hopes others will be inspired to use this method of building and that we will see less discarded tires along the road and in the desert, and, instead, see more beautiful, sustainable homes and structures.

When she first started building, Joyce had no idea what the total cost would be. It was kind of an experiment. She was very pleased that it was about the same as block construction with foam insulation.

There were higher labor costs because it is more labor intensive, but the building materials were less.

Joyce enjoyed building the home so much that she built a second one right next door and would love to build more. Building a tire house was exciting and, in the end, she found living in a tire house brings a sense of security, an organic feel from the curves and bumps of the tires, “almost womb-like” says Joyce, “very cozy and welcoming as well as artistic and unique.”

Joyce has been living in her larger tire home for almost three years, which is now for sale.

When it sells she says she’ll move into the smaller one next door.

This unique home is being offered for sale by owner for $149,000. US. Owner financing is available.

Casa de llantas features include a large kitchen with tiled counters, custom cabinets and comfortable dining area. Utility room with washer and additional pantry. The spacious living room w/ fireplace has beamed ceiling, beautiful tiled floors and sliding doors that open to a private patio. The extra large bedroom features a walkin closet, bathroom, and also opens to the patio.

Upstairs, a large rooftop patio and roomy guest suite with bath and private entrance. The large 60’x130’ lot is nicely landscaped and completely fenced. Unattached garage with opener.The home has air conditioning w/ heat throughout.

City water and electric.

“I love the ejido, it’s quiet and friendly and I can walk to a good restaurant, thrifty ice cream, and soon Baja Chocolate Lovers will have a storefront! What could be better?”

IF A UNIQUE HOME IN BAJA IS YOUR DREAM THEN CONTACT JOYCE in San Felipe at (686)210-4598 If youre calling from the US dial (011) 52- 1 -686 210-4598 or send her an email andrenajoyce@yahoo.com. Joyce also has ejido lots available for sale.

NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL FULL COVERAGE POLICIES starting at $152.55 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

12 - WWW.BAJAGOODLIFECLUB.COM BUILDING & CONSTRUCTION DISCOUNTS

continued from page 5

first rattlesnake and scorpion encounters. The colorful but intimidating mountains and the thought of the rattlesnakes emerging curtailed my inland explorations. I preferred to kayak, fish and beachcomb.

I eventually ran out of water, which necessitated spending a good part of my day boiling seawater and condensing the steam. So I was ready when one fine morning in March, a launch from the Villa Bahía hotel came to take me back to LA Bay. My two month Guardian Angel Island adventure was over. I returned to San Diego in great shape, greatly rested, and almost fifteen pounds lighter.

And like Steinbeck, I want very much to go back. And no doubt I’ll take a few more than thirty cans of beer.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Graham Mackintosh is a regular contributor to Baja Good Life and Adventure Writer specializing in Baja California. www.grahammackintosh.com Author of Baja Adventure Books: • Nearer My Dog to Thee • Into a Desert Place • Journey With a Baja Burro • Marooned With Very Little Beer

REAL ESTATE DISCOUNTS SAN FELIPE, BC Amor Property • 10% Off Fideicomisos • MX: 686-577-0611

ROSARITO BEACH, BC To The Top Elevator • 5% Off on a wheelchair lift/residential elevator.

• US: 619-342-2183

www.SanFelipeHomeBuilder.com

Home Builders in San Felipe

SAN FELIPE, BC Sweitzer Construction Management • 5% Off all Building Projects • MX: 686-577-0195

Providing Quality, Integrity and Professionalism since 2005

SAN FELIPE, BC Perez Construction Construction PC Pérez in Baja” •“Best8% discount on construction projects.

• MX: 686-170-3979 Lupe Pérez, General Contractor

San Felipe (686) 577-3176 San Diego (619) 920-2292

* * * * * El Dorado Ranch 5 Star Contractor

011.521.686.170.3979

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES DISCOUNTS

Jane Allen, Contract Manager US: 480.600.2114 or MX: 011.521.686.236.4927

Baja Home Improvement Services • Member Discount: 5% Discount to all Club Members bestinbaja@gmail.com • Phone: 686-222-4507

www.sanfelipehomesbyperez.com

SAN FELIPE, BC San Felipe Storage Company • $20 off First Month Storage.

• MX: 686-576-0432

CABO SAN LUCAS, BCS Tankreto Precast Cistern Systems • Member Discount: 10% discount • Phone: 624-173-9719

San Felipe Disposal • 15% off on all new accounts.

• MX: 686-121-1004

HOME & GARDEN DISCOUNTS

SAN FELIPE, BCS Versoleil Landscaping • 10% Off on landscaping and building projects.

• MX: 686-573-0526

Alanis Insurance • 15% Off New Homeowner Policies.

• 686-577-2464 Baja House Cleaners • Member Discount: 10% off cleaning services • Phone: 01-521-686-121-1684 SAVE 10%

on Baja Cleaning Services

LORETO, BCS Media Luna Loreto • Membership Discount: 10% percent discount on DECORATIVE ITEMS. and 15% disc on furniture • Phone: 613-135-0533 / Cell 613-104-8244

686-121-1684

www.bajahousecleaners.com

Do you have a business you would like to listed as a discount?

Let us know about it: bajagoodlifeclub@gmail.com

Developer Financing Homes from $154,500 usd

Greens Fees Fees Greens from $30usd

Rental Homes & Resales

2,314 sq ft Lots from $25,800 usd

www.bajacountryclub.com Information & reservations

646-177-5523

US Toll Free

1-866-599-0631

NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL LIABILITY POLICIES STARTING AT $83.10 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE - 13

PC

Pérez Construction “Best in Baja”

* * * * * El Dorado Ranch 5 Star Contractor

Lupe Pérez, General Contractor 011.521.686.170.3979

An Exclusive Gated 8 Unit Townhome Complex in San Felipe DEVELOPER FINANCING AVAILABLE

Starting at $159,900 US 760-208-1700

www.oasisdecortez.com

Jane Allen, Contract Manager US: 480.600.2114 or MX: 011.521.686.236.4927 www.sanfelipehomesbyperez.com bestinbaja@gmail.com

NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL FULL COVERAGE POLICIES starting at $152.55 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

14 - WWW.BAJAGOODLIFECLUB.COM SERVICES DISCOUNTS

Computer & Satellite Installation

ROSARITO BEACH, BC Click On • 10% off on 100 copies/more • 5% Off 6 mo./1 yr mail serv.

• MX: 661-614-0513

LOS BARRILES, BCS Wolf Management Ground Transportation Service • 5% off service in Baja Sur. • MX: 624-188-3027

Satellite Internet

Also Computers, Cell Phones, and DVD Rentals

Av. Mar de Cortez, Plaza San Felipe Visit us Online: www.csibaja.com

686-577-2928 shane@csibaja.com

San Felipe BC Taller Rallo - Brakes and Suspension Member Discount: 10% off services Phone: 01-52-686-946-7465 The Computer Guy • Member Discount: FREE problem diagnostic • Member Discount: 25% off the first hour of labor • Phone: 011-521-686-134-6183

15% OFF MEXICO HOME OWNERS INSURANCE

MEXICAN HOME OWNERS INSURANCE Internet Café & Business Center Copies Internet Email Snail mail Coffee 0XIÀQV Soda Snacks

01(661)614-0513 www.bajasclick-on.com

MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE Annual liability policies for members starting at only $83.10 per year www.bajagoodlifeclub.com / 1-877-LUVMEX1 Ext. 3

BUSINESS DIRECTORY

Baja Emergency numbers from any Mexican phone and cell phone carriers

SAVE 10%

on Baja Cleaning Services

686-121-1684

www.bajahousecleaners.com

060 - Police 066 - Ambulance 068- Fire Department 076 - Green Angles Road Assistance Rosarito Beach Baja Public Storage.............................. .661-614-1642 Cisco-Sat.............................................. 661-616-0779 La Bamba 50’s Diner........................... ..661-100-2560 Ensenada El Rey Sol Restaurant . ......................... 646-178-1601 Baja Country Club Resort...................... 646-177-5523 San Felipe Lodging Redwagon Property Services............... .686-576-0081 San Felipe Resort Rentals.............. USA 877-256-8060 San Felipe Vacations LLC...................... 928-277-6863 Sandollar Condotels............................. .686-123-7688 Restaurant Blowin Smoke...................................... .686-576-0710 Juanitos (El Colorado)......................... ..686-133-6500 Los Arcos Restaurant........................... .686-577-2585 Rabbit Pizza Delivery............................ .686-577-0987 Rosita Restaurant................................. .686-577-1903 Rumors................................................ 686-577-3168 Sand Rail Pizza................................... ..686-576-0441 The Sweet Spot.................................... 686-209-6369

Business Listing Baja California Rental Car............ ..USA 619-470-7368 California Dental.................................... 686-577-0708 CSI - Computer & Satellite..................... 686-577-2928 Dr Victor Abasolo - Medical................... 686-577-1706 Dr Victor Abasolo - Medical................... 686-537-0174 Fandangos Bar...................................... 686-577-0060 Hair by Nancy...................................... .686-113-3682 Luis LaGarde - Pest Control................... 686-216-2281 Panaderia Especial - Bakery.................. .686-577-1902 Rumors - Bar........................................ 686-577-3144 Redwagon Property Services................ 686-576-0081 San Felipe Home Builders.................... ..686-577-3176 San Felipe Moving & Storage................ .686-577-0432 Mulege Pelican Reef Real Estate Center............. .615-161-5499 Loreto El Tiburon Casitas........................ .(US) 805-748-4566 Las Cabanas de Loreto......................... .613-135-1105 La Paz Omni Services...................................... 612-123-4888 Los Barriles Cooper River Designs............................ 624-159-4780 Wolf Property Management............ www.wolf-pm.com Home Maintenance, Vacation Rentals, Ground Transportation Los Cabos Jungle Cactus Nursery (San Jose)......... 624-122-0324 Hotel Mar de Cortez (Cabo)................... 800-347-8821 Hotel Mar de Cortez (Cabo)........... USA 831-663-5803

NEED MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE? ANNUAL LIABILITY POLICIES STARTING AT $83.10 per year. CALL US TOLL FREE 1-877-LUVMEX1 EXT 3.

Building Homes Since 1990