www.mexicolivingguide.com – No. 35 April / abril 2010
Mariachis:
The Tempo of Mexico p.22
■ Crossing the Sea of Cortez p.23 ■ Water IS Worth More Than Gold! p.14 ■ Your Cell Phone May Not Work After April 10 p.15 ■ Seller Beware . . . Prepare Your Wallet for the Shock! p.35
Tijuana 6
Tecate
Rosarito Beach m 53 s ile
La Mision GD
Bahia Todos Santos La Bufadora
CONSTITUTION OF 1857 NATIONAL PARK
Valle de Guadalupe
6
Los Algodones
Mexicali
GD
BAJA NORTE
Yuma
2D
Ensenada Ojes Negros Maneadero 29 M
Santo Tomas
Heroes de la Independencia
San Vicente
GD
Colonet
Co a
sta
lH
8
wy
Puerto Penasco
SAN PEDRO MARTIR NATIONAL PARK
(Rocky Point)
National Astronomic Observatory
M
GD
Ne w
Valle la Trinidad
23
Bahia Colonet
Lukeville, AZ Sonoyta
Gulfo de Santa Clara
6
Colonia Vicente Guerrero
San Felipe
18 M
Punta Estrella
GD
Laguna Percebu
San Quintin
Puertecitos 35 M
Carborca get gas if
GD southbound
El Rosario
77
Bahia Rosario
Isla Miramar Isla Lobos Isla Encantada Isla San Luis
M
Calamajue 64 M Bahia LA turnoff
Bahia de Los Angeles
Punta Prieta 33 M
Bahia Maria
Isla Angel de la Guarda
40 M
nia
Bahia Blanco
ora
Chapala
r fo
li Ca PACIFIC OCEAN
Son
Bahia San Luis Gonzaga
ja
Ba
Cataviña
Isla Tiburon
Santa Rosalillita
Bahia Santa Rosalillita
Rosarito
Isla San Lorenzo Isla San Esteban
Puerto de Santo Domingo
Bahia de Sebastian Vizcaino
2
PUNTA FALSA
Bahia San Rafael
Villa Jesus Maria
GD
Guerrero Negro
LagunaCALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1 Ojo de Liebre Vizciano
O
91
PUNTA EUGENIA BAHIA April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California TORTUGAS Bahia Tortugas
get gas if northbound
LF GU
Lighthouse
G
Puerto de Santo Domingo
Bahia de Sebastian Vizcaino
GD
PUNTA FALSA
BAJA SUR
Vizciano
LIF CA
Isla Tortuga
46 M
GD
Santa Rosalia
GD
Baj
San Ignacio
46 M
Mulegé
Bahia de Concepcion
of
rni
Bahia San Nicolas 86 M
aS
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Bahia San Basilio
San Juanico G
a (Se
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7
El Coyote
Bahia de Ballenas
La Purisma
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PACIFIC OCEAN
Bahia Santa Ines
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Isla San Marcos
OR
BAHIA ASUNCION Bahia Asuncion PUNTA PRIETA Bahia San Hipolito LA BOCANA
Guaymas
OF
G
PUNTA ABREOJOS
San Carlos
LF
Laguna Ojo de Liebre
91 M
PUNTA EUGENIA BAHIA TORTUGAS Bahia Tortugas
Guerrero Negro
GU
Lighthouse
Villa Jesus Maria
GD
San Javier
7
Loreto Isla del Carmen
Isla Danzante Isla Monserrat
80 M
Isla Santa Catalina
GD Ciudad Insurgentes 12 M
Isla Santa Cruz
Puerto San Carlos
CIUDAD GDCONSTITUCION
Bahia Santa Maria Bahia Magdalena
Isla San Jose
Isla San Francisco Santa Rita
Bahia Almejas
Bahia de la Paz Isla Espiritu Santo
Isla Santa Margarita 133 M
La Paz GD
Isla Cerralvo
8
Bahia la Ventana Bahia Muertos
LEGEND: 1
- Page of city map & directory
GD
- Pemex Gas and/or Diesel
70 M
Todos Santos
- International Airport - Highway Sign
GD
Los Barriles
M 49
48 M
Pescadero
8
Bahia las Palmas
SIERRA DE LA GD 10 LAGUNA NATIONAL PARK
GD
San Jose del Cabo 3 San Lucas MexicoCabo Living’s Baja California – April 20109 GD www.mexicolivingguide.com 9
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
M 19
Welcome to Baja The Mexican states of Baja California and Baja California Sur make up Baja California as covered by our guide. The region features an enormous diversity of landscapes like no place on earth—a land of quiet, colorful deserts, endless beaches, majestic mountains, forests, unexplained rock formations, brilliant clear skies, an average temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit and some of the most welcoming people in the world. Baja California is the destination of choice for retirees, investors, entrepreneurs, travelers and vacationers alike. The U.S. State Department says that more Americans retire in Mexico than any other place on the globe; 51 percent of all U.S. retirees who live outside of the U.S. live in Mexico.
www.SanFelipeHomeBuilder.com
Home Builders in San Felipe
Providing Quality, Integrity and Professionalism since 2005
San Felipe (686) 577-3176 San Diego (619) 920-2292
DRIVER LICENSE INSURANCE
15% OFF
Homeowners Insurance
Call or e-mail TODAY! Mail - YETMAIL 277 segurosalanis@prodigy.net.mx
686-577-2464 • FAX 686-577-2916
613-116-5374
www.bajacaballobooks.com Loreto BCS Mexico
El Caballo Blanco
4
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
Mexico is economical; the dollar goes further here than it does in Europe, Canada and the most popular destinations of Asia. The people of Mexico are accustomed to Americans and vice versa. Mexico welcomes American retirees and tourists and is increasingly prepared to offer the foods, goods and services that Americans like and expect. Whether you’re looking to retire, invest, vacation or operate a business, Baja California is the place.
We hope our guide helps you to enjoy Baja California to the fullest. Explore!
WHAT DO I NEED? Passport. On June 1, 2009, the U.S. government implemented the full requirements of the land and sea phase of WHTI. The new rules require most U.S. citizens entering the United States at sea or land ports of entry to have a passport, passport card or other travel document approved by the Department of Homeland Security. Additional information can be found at: http://travel.state.gov/passport.
Declaration Lane ($75–$1,000) If you are bringing more than US$75 worth of merchandise per person, but not more than US$1,000, you may declare it by driving into the customs facility through the declaration lane (carril de declaración). There you will be able to fill out the proper documents and pay any duty. Duty can be between 15 percent and 25 percent of the value of the merchandise.
What can I bring into Mexico? As you approach the border, there are generally multiple lanes labeled “Nothing to Declare - Nada que Declarar” and “Declaration Lane - Carril de Declaración.”
IMPORTANT NOTES: • Guns are illegal in Mexico. Do not attempt to cross the border with a gun and/or ammunition. You will be put in jail even if you were not aware of the Mexican law. • If you have more than $10,000 in U.S. currency or equivalent, or other monetary instruments, you must declare this with Mexican customs, otherwise it is a crime. • You must declare if you are bringing any animals, agricultural products or medicines for other than personal use. • Amounts over US$1,000 require the use of a Mexican customs broker.
Nothing to Declare Lane This lane is used when you are bringing, as a tourist (FMT) $75 or less. Your personal luggage and other merchandise up to the allowed exemption US$75 per person. The amount is cumulative per number of people in the vehicle. For example two people would have a $150 exemption. You must have receipts and invoices to qualify for the exemption. Personal Items Allowed: • New or used such as clothes, shoes and toiletries in quantities that would be considered not for resale. • Two photographic or video cameras and charger. • Two cellular phones or walkie-talkies. • Laptop, notebook, etc. • Two sports equipment items. • Portable radio recorder and/or player, speakers and accessories. • Five laser discs, 10 DVDs, 30 CDs or cassette tapes. Five storage devices or memory cards. • Books and magazines in quantities that would be considered not for resale. • Five toys, video game console and video games. • Medicine for personal use, one blood pressure instrument, one glucose testing device. In the case of psychotropic drugs, make sure you bring the prescription. Note: Be careful not to bring a large quantity of your prescription medication. • One set of binoculars, one telescope. • Two cartons of cigarettes, 25 cigars or 200 grams of tobacco if you are of age (if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties). • Up to three liters of liquor and six liters of wine (if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties). • Strollers and baby walkers. • Two musical instruments and accessories. • Tent and equipment for camping. • Crutches, canes, walkers and wheelchairs for personal use. • Tool sets including hand drills, wire cutters, wrenches, screwdrivers, cables, etc. • Bedding sets including one sheet set, one towel set, a set of table linens. • Two dogs or cats and pet items. • Up to $10,000 in U.S. currency or equivalent in other currencies, foreign or national checks, and/or other monetary instruments.
WHAT CAN I TAKE HOME? You can take home US$800 of duty-free merchandise per person, per month, including one liter of alcohol. Mexican arts and crafts, including handcrafted furniture, are duty-free and do not count toward the $800 limit.
DIALING INSTRUCTIONS Mexico City: (011) 52-55, plus the 8-digit telephone number. Guadalajara: (011) 52-33, plus the 8-digit telephone number. Tijuana: (011) 52-664, plus the 7-digit telephone number. USA to MX Cell Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to MX Landline: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) MX to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel #) DIALING 800 NUMBER: Some charges may apply when call 800 numbers internationally, please check with the telephone carrier. 800 DIALING to the USA From MX (dial 001+)
TOURIST VISA and VEHICLE PERMIT Tourists staying 72 hours or less within “the border zone” do not need a visa. Those traveling beyond the border zone or entering Mexico by air must pay a fee to obtain a tourist card, also known as an FMT, available from Mexican consulates, Mexican border crossing points, Mexican tourism offices, airports within the border zone and most airlines serving Mexico. The fee is generally included in the price of a plane ticket for travelers arriving by air. Please note that travelers not in possession of their FMT card at the point of exit from Mexico may face a fine from Mexican Immigration. A vehicle permit is NOT required to travel the Baja Peninsula; however, you must obtain a vehicle permit if you travel to Mexico’s mainland.
To Dial USA 800.................... dial 880
MILITARY CHECKPOINTS There are military checkpoints along the way to all the northwest border cities. These checkpoints serve the same purpose as the California and Arizona highway inspection stops you’ll encounter on the return north. The soldiers will be carrying weapons, but there is nothing to be concerned about, the soldiers are looking for drugs and guns. You’ll find them to be polite and friendly. They may ask to look inside your or RV. Checkpoints on both sides of the border were established based on an agreement between the United States and Mexico to fight the war on drugs.
Fire dept...................................... 068
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
visitmexico.com
To Dial USA 866.................... dial 883 To Dial USA 877.................... dial 882 To Dial USA 888.................... dial 881 IMPORTANT NUMBERS: Emergency dial 132 free from any phone and Mexican cell phone carriers Red Cross................................... 066 Police Dept................................. 060 Electricity (emergency and nonemergency)................................ 071 Legal Assistance......................... 061 Tourist Assistance....................... 078 Tourism Department.................... 078 Secretary of Tourism - BC Arturo Martínez Esquer (Facilitation and Tourist Assistance Sub Direction) amartineze@baja.gob.mx Secretary of Tourism - BCS.....612-24-0100
’S R O T LE I D E NG A
As we all know, living in Baja your trials and tribulations on figuring out the phone seris definitely the good life! But . . . vice; just tell us anything you’d like that will help fellow How did you get here? How did gringos enjoy this paradise and/or make the decision to you discover take the plunge and cross the Baja and the border themselves. We’d like to hear your secrets of We’d like to hear your story— story—how you came to the good life? how you came to make the deciAnd, how has sion to move to Baja—the steps make the decision to move to moving to you took, the hurdles you overBaja—the steps you took, the Baja improved your life? came, how it improved your life, Was it an accident? Were you helped you achieve a goal or learn hurdles you overcame, how just on vacation and all of sudden something that matters in life. it improved your life, helped you said, “Wait a minute . . . I could Email your story (and photohave the best of both worlds here!” graphs) to editor@mexicoliving. you achieve a goal or learn Or, did someone tell you about Baja? info today and share it with the something that matters in life. Were you reading Mexico Living and world. decided to check it out for yourself? Seriously . . . I’m extremely curious. I’ve heard many stories from MANY people. Some ended up here as a result of a vacation. Others were looking for a way to stretch their dollar while, at the same time, having the availability P.S. As always, I’m interested in hearing from you, what of luxurious amenities. And others just wanted to get away you think of Mexico Living and any ideas or comments from the “fast-paced” life in the United States, Canada, you may have to improve YOUR GUIDE TO THE GOOD Australia, etc. So, what brought you to Baja and how has LIFE. So, send your suggestions and comments to editor@mexicoliving.info. the move improved your life? Moving a considerable distance from one state to another is traumatic and stressful enough; but, crossing the border can be even scarier. Each and every month, we tell you how great Baja is, and how you can have pretty much anything that you is a weekly Mexico Living want . . . all you have to do is take the plunge and cross the border. newsletter featuring articles, news and community However, we’re just like a parent updates from readers like you. If you have something to teaching a child . . . no matter report, simply send it to bajareport@gmail.com. Reports what we say, it takes proof—testimonials from “real” people that can be events, road trips, road conditions, free classified have taken the “leap of faith” and ads, community updates, news or anything Baja. Find it found out that they made the best Online www.bajareport.com. (or one of the best) decisions of their life. Share your story on how difficult the move was (or wasn’t). Let others know how much their quality of life can be improved; Your one-stop Baja 411 resource for finding business how they can communicate with people, products and services in your area. family and friends; tell us about
Guide to Pacific BajaBenjamin & The SeaPack of Cortez Published by John
Publisher/Editor John Pack john@mexicoliving.info Publisher Rachel Pack rachel@mexicoliving.info
20–21 22
p. Feature
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p. Activity Guide
24–26
p. Business & Money
27–29
p. COOKING & Dining
30
p. Lodging
31
p. Health & BeaUty p.
32–33
Fishing p.
34
ART
p.
35–38
Home &
Real estate
39
p. Classifieds Mexico Living is a guide committed to promoting Northwest Mexico to the limits of our abilities and to provide a valuable resource to visitors and residents, while showing that Northwest Mexico is a great place not only to visit and play, but also to live and work—a place to call home.
Regional Sales Associates – Baja California Sur Rachel Pack, Publisher, rachel@mexicoliving.info
Regional Sales Manager Lisa Shannon, lisa@mexicoliving.info
Distribution Regional, Carlos Durán San Felipe, Bill Maine, San Felipe
Mexico Mailing Address Mexico Living / Yet Mail, Etc. Ave. Mar de Cortez #1049, San Felipe, BC 21850 USA Mailing Address PO Box 9019, PMB#460, Calexico, CA 92232
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Editor Brenda Judy, editor@mexicoliving.info
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U.S. Toll-free: (800) 395-9019 Ex.3 San Diego, CA: (619) 550-2730 San Felipe, BC: (686) 230-9933
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Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
www.mexicolivingguide.com
5
{Welcome to baja} Welcome to Baja – City Maps & Business Directory BAJA CALIFORNIA
ROSARITO BEACH, BAJA CALIFORNIA
Playas de Rosarito, or Rosarito Beach as it is referred to in English, is a city in the Mexican state of Baja California. It is located between the Pacific Ocean and the coastal foothills, just 20 minutes south of the U.S. border in Tijuana and is a popular destination for tourists, snowbirds and expatriates from the United States. With 20 miles of white, sandy beaches with endless activities, Rosarito offers a large variety of places to stay and things to do, including incredible shopping in the Artisan shops with some of Mexico’s finest leather goods, furniture, wrought iron, pottery, marble and traditional Mexican crafts. You’ll find a culinary paradise of international cuisine from traditional Mexican, sensational seafood and delicious steaks to American, Chinese, French and Italian specialties. Be sure to visit the well-known lobster village, Puerto Nuevo, just 15 minutes south of Rosarito— a tourist and culinary destination. Whether staying for vacation or life, you will enjoy Playas de Rosarito. ATM/GETTING CASH Banamex, Bancomer and Bital have 24-hour ATMs that accept most U.S. bank cards all along the Tijuana–Rosarito–Ensenada corridor. Only pesos are dispensed; you can get dollars from an HSBC ATM. Your account in the U.S. is charged that day’s rate of exchange. A service fee will also be deducted from your account.
Municipal/Municipal
Airport “Abelardo L Rodriguez International Airport”..................................... 664-607-8200 Immigration.................................................. 661-612-7262
Ensenada, BAJA CALIFORNIA Ensenada is the third-largest city in the state of Baja California. About 70 miles south of the San Diego/Tijuana border, located in the Bahía de Todos Santos—an inlet of the Pacific Ocean—Ensenada is an important commercial and fishing port as well as a cruise ship stop. The city is backed by small mountain ranges, and due to its location on the Pacific Ocean and Mediterranean latitude, the weather tends to be mild year round. Most of the shopping is at sea level, making it a great city for getting around on your own
energy. Ensenada is easy to navigate with all numbered streets running north and south, and celebrity-named streets running east and west. Ensenada has the accommodations to meet any level of comfort or amenities. Prices can range depending on the time of year from $30 to $250 plus. The best hotels are located to the north and south of town, along the beach, and are not within walking distance from downtown shopping and attractions; but taxi and shuttles are available in most locations.
DINING
MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS ISSSTE .........................................................646-176-2230 IMSS ............................................................646-120-7771 Centro de Salud.............................................646-152-1371
DINING
American Food .............................................. 661-100-2560 La Bamba
LODGING
RV Park/Parque de RV Popotla RV Park (See ad on page 30).......... 661-612-1501
Hotel Posada El Rel Sol (See ad on page 30).........646-178-1601
DOG GROOMERS D’ Groomer Dog Grooming (See ad on page 18) . . 661-100-6218
BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z
Elevators/Elevadores Baja Lifts to To The To (See ad on page 36)... 661-614-1434 FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company (See ad on page 37)....686-576-0653 MAILING SERVICES Click On (See ad on page 12) ..................... 661-614-0513 Medical/Médico Baja Medix.................................................... 661-612-5850 REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services.................... 760-494-7053 Satellite TV Installation Cisco-Sat...................................................... 661-616-0779 STORAGE SERVICES Baja Public Storage....................................... 619-616-0779 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE ................................. 612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . ..................................................... 612-142 0001 CALIGAS....................................................... 612-142 0122
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
LODGING
BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z
DENTIST Consultorio Dental......................................... 661-612-4204
6
Mexican Magana’s...................................................... 646-155-0586 Steak & Seafood El Rey Sol (See ad on page 30)................... 646-178-1601
Aeropuerto/Airport Aeropuerto ...................................................646-273-1984 Art Gallery Garery Art & Stuff..........................................646-175-8859 ARTIST Alfonso Arambulua.........................................646-149-3866 DEVELOPMENT MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE FRACCIONAMIENTOS Baja Mar Country Club (See ad on page 30) ..1-800-434-2252 FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company (See ad on page 36)....686-576-0653 FISHING Dann Manz (See ad on page 32) HEALTH SPA La Fonda........................................................646-155-0394 JEWELRY Baja Pearls Jewelry (See ad on page 34).....646-178-8734
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
MUSIC/MUSICA Pharmacy Regia & House of Music................646-174-0557 Professional Services PSN Mexico Professional Services.................646-178-8280 Legal/Immigration Assist FM3/FM2/FMT Import documentation www.psnmexico.com POLICE/POLICÍA Policia Ministerial...........................................646-176-3636 Policia Federal Caminos................................ 646-683-8040 Policia Federal Preventiva ..............................646-176-2579 Prefectura Naval.......................................... 469-0376/2948 public transportation/el transporte público Terminal de Buses..........................................646-224-1041 REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Nicolas Santos (Rosarito)...............................619-917-5695 REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services.....................760-494-7053 RENTALS Popotla RV Village (See ad on page30)... 661-612-1501 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE ..................................612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . ...................................................... 612-142 0001 CALIGAS........................................................ 612-142 0122 Winery Baja Wine Tours (See ad on page 23) Vinos Fuentes Winery . ..................................646-171-7070
{Welcome to baja} Fandangos.................................................... 686-477-0060 The Green Door Bar (Los Algodones) (See ad on page 29)............................... 658-517-7347 Los Arcos - Happy Jackass (See ad on page 28)............................... 686-577-2585 BEAUTY SALONS/SALONES DE BELLEZA Lilly Ana’s Day Spot...................................... 686-577-6253 Hair By Nancy.............................................. .686-113-3682 BUILDING MATERIALS/MATERIALES DE CONTRUCCIÓN Maderas de San Felipe (See ad on page 26).... 686-577-1515 CATERING The Sweet Spot............................................. 686-209-6369 CHOCOLATE/CHOCOLATE Baja Chocolate Lovers (See ad on page 27)...686-576-0348 church Mission San Felipe (See ad on page 4)....... 686-577-0877 CITY SERVICES/SERVICIOS DE LA CIUDAD District Attorney’s......................................... 686-577-1110 Mayors Office............................................... 686-577-1021 COMPUTER SERVICES CSI–Computer & Satellite Installation (See ad on page 35)................................. 686-577-2928 CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE CONSTRUCCIÓN Sweitzer Construction Management (See ad on page 36). ................................. 686-577-0195 Perez Construction (See ad on page 36). .... 686-576-0650
San Felipe, BAJA CALIFORNIA San Felipe is a small fishing village, situated on the Sea of Cortez, 118 miles south of the U.S. border, which was historically dependent upon fishing; however, today tourism and real estate provide the economic base. Even as it grows into the next century with four-lane highways, it will remain a small fishing village in its heart and soul. Today, San Felipe is maturing into a sophisticated resort community with resorts, luxury condos, fine restaurants, sport fishing and world-class off-road adventures. The beaches extend north and south with over 50 miles of shoreline to explore, including 23-
COUNSELING-THERAPY/CONSULTA TERAPÉUTICA Inner Connection........................................... 686-172-8851
foot tides, exposing a kilometer or more of ocean floor—one of the largest tidal bores in the world. And directly behind San Felipe is Sierra San Pedro Martír, the tallest mountains in Baja. The desert terrain is vast and offers incredible trails and exploration for ATVs, dirt bikes and off-road vehicles. Just south of San Felipe are extensive sand dunes ideal for buggies and rails. The Valley of the Giants, the natural reserve of the thousand-year-old Cardon Cactus, has become a major attraction. In addition, San Felipe offers great bargain shopping for souvenirs, arts and much more.
DELI SunDance Deli (See ad on page 29)............ 686-576-0369 DENTIST/DENTISTA California Dental Spa.......................................686-577-0708 Consultorio Dental Y de Ortodoncia.................686-577-6212 DEVELOPMENTS/FRACCIONAMIENTOS El Dorado Ranch........................................... 686-577-0015 Oasis de Cortez............................................ 760-208-1700 Playa de Oro (See ad on page 36)............... 686-576-0223 Playa del Paraiso................................. 888-647-5292 x 704 San Rafael.................................................... 686-576-0223 DOCTORS/DOCTORES Dr. Victor Abasolo............. 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174 ENTERTAINMENT/ENTRETENIMIENTO Name That Tune - Denny Flannigan................ 686-576-1683 The Singout Sisters & Chuey (Karaoke)......... 686-576-0047 EVENT SERVICES/servicios acontecimiento Produciones Baja.......................................... 686-576-1683
Municipal/Municipal
Civil Protection Unit....................................... 686-577-1433 Chamber of Commerce................................. 686-577-1104 Fire Dept/Ambulance..................................... 686-577-1182 Federal Preventive Police............................... 686-577-1045 Immigration Office......................................... 686-577-1083 Port Captain.................................................. 686-577-1577 State Judicial Police...................................... 686-577-1203 Tourism Department...................................... 686-577-1155
Casey’s Place............................................... 686-577-1431 Rancho del Sol.............................................. 686-231-4921 Redwagon Property Services........................ 686-576-0081 Sandollar Condotels...................................... 686-123-7688 Su Casa Elegante.......................................... 686-577-0745 Motels/Hotels La Hacienda de la Langosta Roja (See ad on page 30)................................ 686-577-0483 Olympia Motel (Los Algodones)..................... 658-517-7347
DINING
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
American Los Arcos..................................................... 686-577-2585 Baja Jimmys................................................. 686-139-7373 Blowin’ Smoke BBQ (See ad on page 27).....686-576-0710 Road Runner Cafe..........................................686-227-7668 The Beach Bar & Grill.....................................686-577-3144 Burgers Chilis & Burgers............................................ 686-577-6196 Mexican The Beach Bar and Grill................................. 686-577-3144 Rosita Restaurant . ....................................... 686-577-1903 Pizza Fatboy’s (See ad on page 28)...................... 686-577-4092 Los Arcos - Happy Jackass (See ad on page 28)................................ 686-577-2585 Rabbit Pizza Delivery..................................... 686-577-0987 Sand Rail Pizza............................................. 686-576-0441 Steak & Seafood Baja Mar & Taco Factory (See ad on page 27)... 686-577-2648 Los Arcos..................................................... 686-577-2585 Fine Dining The Sweet Spot (See ad on page 28)........... 686-209-6369 2-Highway 5 KM 183, San Felipe, BC Pavilion Restaurant (See ad on page 28)..... 686-577-0022 Juanitos (El Colorado)................................... 686-133-6500
LODGING
RV Park/Parque de RV Club de Pesca............................................... 686-577-1180 Kiki's RV Park on the Beach (See ad on page 30)................................ 686-577-2021 Rentals
FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company (See ad on page 26 & 36). . ......................686-576-0653 FILM DEVELOPMENT/IMPRESION DE FOTOS Fotografia Alvarez (See ad on page 23). ..... 686-577-1144 FISHING Pablo's Sport Fishing (English Spoken).......... 686-117-6974 Azteca Sport Fishing and Tours (See ad on page 32)................................. 686-577-0741
San Felipe Interior Design.............................. 686-577-3176 JEWELRY Baja Treasures (See ad on page 34). .......... 686-122-2668 LANDSCAPING/JARDINERÍA Versoleil (See ad on page 34). .................... 686-576-0664 MASSAGE/MASAJE Casey’s Place (Massage) (See ad on page 34)...686-577-1431 Meat Markets/Carnecerias Mercados Zsamaniegos Carnecerias (Z Market)............. 686-577-1676 MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS Ambulance................................................... 686-577-0500 Health Center............................................... 686-577-1521 Red Cross..................................................... 686-577-1544 Dr. Victor Abasolo............. 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174 MOVING Services San Felipe Moving & Storage (See ad on page 26)................................. 686-576-0432 Optometrists/Opthamologists California Optical (See ad on page 31)........ 686-577-0708 MaxivisionOptical = OpticaMaxivision........... 686-577-0320 PHARMACY/FARMACIA Botica “Sagrado Corazon”.....................................686-577-1294 Santa Fe Pharmacy (See ad on page 4) ......686-576-0546 POLICE/POLICÍA Federal Preventive Police .............................. 686-577-1045 Police .......................................................... 686-577-1134 POSTAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS POSTALES Yet Mail (See ad on page 12). ......................... 686-577-1255 SunRunner Mail Center (See ad on page 12).. 686-147-6752 PRINTERS/IMPRESORAS Papeleria Copicentro (See ad on page 23).. 686-577-1402 The Print Supplier.......................................... 686-230-9933 PROPERTY MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE PROPIEDADES Custom Vacation Homes............................... 928-277-6863 928-277-7559 & visit www.sanfelipevacations.com Redwagon Property Services........................ 686-576-0081 PUBLICATIONS/PUBLICACIONES Gringo Gazette (See ad on page 28)............ 686-111-3692 Mexico Living Magazine................................ 686-577-1377 REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Bill Maine...................................................... 686-231-4921 Jim Moore........................................MX Cell 686-184-9237 REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES Baja 24/7 Construction & Real Estate (See ad on page 35)................................. 686-577-6196 REAL ESTATE SERVICES/servicios DE BIENES RAÍCES Baja Closing & Escrow Services.................... 686-576-0653 RECREATION/RECREACIÓN Aerodynamic - Ultralight flights . ................... 686-116-2933 SATELLITE TELEVISION & INTERNET/ TELEVISION SATELITALES Y INTERNET CSI - Computer & Satellite Installation........... 686-577-2928
FURNITURE/MUEBLERÍA Baja Nueva (See ad on page 18 & 34). ....... 686-187-7795
SERVICE ORGANIZATIONS/ ORGANIZACIONES DE SERVICIO Club Las Amigas........................................... 686-202-0455 San Felipe Lions Club (See ad on page 28).....686-212-3599 San Felipe Rotary (See ad on page 12 & 20)..686-576-0112
GIFT BajaGlitz....................................................... 686-175-5420
Solar BC Solar Cooking (See ad on page 29)........ 686-106-9693
GOLF/GOLF Las Caras de Mexico..................................... 686-576-0517
SPECIALTY STORES Sea of Cortez Salt (See ad on page 29)....... 686-209-0074
Graphic Design/Diseño Gráfico GreetScape................................................... 686-188-2393
STORAGE/ALMACÉN San Felipe Moving & Storage (See ad on page 35)..686-576-0432
HATS/sombreros Band It (See ad on page 31)........................ 686-123-5147
TATTOOING/TATUAJES Baja Ink Spot Tattoo & Body Piercing............. 686-577-0746
Auto Rental CA Baja Rent-A-Car (See ad on page 25).... 619-470-7368
HOME BUILDERS/CONTRATISTAS Oscar Parra................................................... 686-120-6506 Perez Construction........................................ 686-236-4927 San Felipe Home Builders (See ad on page 34 & 40). ....................... 686-577-3176
TRANSPORTATION/TRANSPORTACIÓN Airport.......................................................... 686-577-1368 Taxi Service.................................................. 686-577-1293 Bus Station .................................................. 686-577-1516
BAKERY/PANADERÍA Panaderia Especial........................................ 686-577-1902
Home Improvements San Felipe Home Improvement...................... 686-222-4507
BANK/BANCO BBVA Bancomer............................................ 686-577-2224 Silvia Elizabeth Urbea, Preferred Customer’s Unit Ext. 13
IMPORT SERVICES/SE RVICIOS DE IMPORTACIÓN San Felipe Moving & Storage (See ad on page 26)................................ 686-576-0432
utilities/empresas de servicios públicos Electric (CFE).................... 686-577-1060 or 686-577-5602 Estrella Azul (Water Dispensery).................... 686-577-1314 Propane Gas................................................. 686-577-2373 State Com. of Services Public....................... 686-556-1383 Telnor Phone Co............................................ 686-577-1000 Water Company............................................ 686-577-1022
BANDS/BANDAS Agave Blues.................................................. 686-184-9237
Insurance Alani’s Mexican Insurance (See ad on page 4). .686-577-2464
VETERINARY/VETERINARIO ZAPP Animal Center...................................... 686-111-1143
BARS/CLUBS The Beach Bar and Grill................................. 686-577-3144
INTERIOR DESIGN/DISEÑO INTERIOR Baja Nueva (See ad on page 18 & 34). ....... 686-211-4676
WASTE MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE DESHECHO San Felipe Disposal (See ad on page 31).... 686-121-1004
ACCOUNTING/CONTABILIDAD CP E&A Accounting (See ad on page 26)......... 686-577-0836 Alterations/sastre San Felipe Seamstress (Vickie Silva)............. 686-175-5420 ARCHITECT/ARQUITECTO Rosa Lina Ramos Lazcano............................ 686-184-6172 ARTIST/ARTISTA Andrena Joyce................E-mail: andrenajoyce@yahoo.com Robin Waters................................................ 686-115-0526 ADULT CARE/ATENCION DE ADULTOS San Felipe Adult Living Facility....................... 686-576-0661
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
www.mexicolivingguide.com
7
{Welcome to baja} BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR San Ignacio
BCS Photo
Loreto, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur Loreto, founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionaries, was the first Spanish settlement on the east coast of the Baja California peninsula. Loreto, situated on the Sea of Cortez, 26º00’46” N 111º20’36” W, served as the capital of the province of Las Californias from its founding until the capital was moved to Monterey on February 3, 1777. The 2005 census reported a population of 10,283. Today Loreto is a tourist resort, catering mostly to U.S. travelers, with daily flights from California arriving at Loreto International Airport. Many of the American
Mulegé, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur Mulegé is situated at the mouth of the Río Santa Rosalía (26°53´17˝N 111°58´53˝W), in the state of Baja California Sur, 38 miles south of Santa Rosalia, at the mouth of Bahía de Concepción. In 2005, the reported population was 3,317. Nestled between two hills in a lush tropic palm oasis divided by a shaded river that runs towards an estuary that flows to the sea, Mulegé is rich in history with lots of great sites to see, including the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, founded in 1705; the old state penitentiary, finished in 1907; and the Sierra de Guadalupe cave paintings. Outdoor activities abound, from mountain biking, scuba diving and kayaking to deep
Municipal/Municipal
Health Center / Issste.................................... 615-153-0298 Judicial Police............................................... 615-153-0049 Mexican Red Cross.......................... 615-153-0280 / 30110 Municipal Delegation....................................615-15-3-0049 State Tourism................................................ 615-124-0199 Taxi Service.................................................. 615-153-0420 Traffic Department........................................ 615-153-0049
sea fishing. The cold northern current and the warm southern current come together to create an environment great for catching some of the 100 different species of fish in the Mulegé waters. By land, Mulegé is 650 miles south of the San Diego/Tijuana border crossing on Mexican Highway 1, and in 2010, via Highway 5 through San Felipe. By Air, Mulegé is served by three airstrips: Hotel Serenidad Airstrip (El Gallito), the Mulegé Municipal and Punta San Pedro. Regional flights are available at the Palo Verde Airport, and international flights are available at the Loreto Airport.
LODGING
RV Oasis Rio Baja...............................................615-153-0425 Villa Maria Isabel RV Park...............................615-153-0246 Hotel Hotel Serenidad..............................................615-153-0530 Mulegé Hotel..................................................615-153-0090
tourists enjoy fishing in “pangas” for “dorado” (Mahi-mahi or Dolphin Fish). Local restaurants will even prepare the daily catch of the tourists. Loreto has an excellent museum alongside the historic, but still active, parish. The Spanish Fathers found a steady spring of fresh water on this site. Loreto’s climate is hot and humid, with abundant sunshine (desert with some rainfalls in summer). The medium temperature is 76 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperatures are hot from June through October. These summer days have highs around 93 degrees Fahrenheit and high humidity.
When in need of an ambulance, please call the Police number first (they will dispatch the call) and then the Fire Department number. Police number is 135-0035 or 135-0036. By following this procedure, you can be assured of being assisted.
Municipal/Municipal
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
Fire Department............................................ 613-135-1566 Immigration.................................................. 613-135-1266
AIRPORT Loreto International Airport............................ 613-135-0565
DINING
Banks / Banco Bancomer..................................................... 613-135-0739
Breakfast Cafe Sagitario................................................613-135-0718 Mexican 1697............................................................. 613-135-2538 Seafood Augie’s Bar & Bait Shop................................ 613-135-1224
LODGING
RV Park/Parque de RV Rivera del Mar............................................... 613-135-0718 Motel Motel El Dorado.....................................686-613-135-1500 Hotel Hotel Coco Cabana........................................613-135-1729 La Damiana Inn..............................................613-135-0356 Las Cabanas de Loreto...................................613-135-1105 Tripui Hotel.....................................................613-133-0818 Rentals Coco-cabanas.............................................. 613-135-1729 El Tiburon Casitas................................. US (805) 748-4566 Hamman’s Vacaciones.................................. 613-135-0791 Rentals Loreto............................................... 613-135-2505 Stay in Loreto............................................... 613-135-0791 Loreto Islas (see ad on page 27)
BOOKSTORES El Cadallo Blanco (See ad on page 4). ........ 613-116-5374
BUS Loreto Bus Terminal...................................... 613-135-0767 Deli Dalí, Gourmet Store........................................613-135-2477 Stock up your boat or house with the best products; meats, dairies all types of groceries and fresh baguettes. Benito Juarez s/n, Col. Centro, Loreto BCS dali_loreto@prodigy.net.mx HOME DECÓR Gecko's Curios (See ad on page 34)............ 613-135-2505 Jelewry: Silver Desert (see ad on page 4)................. 613-135-0684 Medical Ambulance................................................... 613-135-1566 Hospital........................................................ 613-135-0039 ISSTE........................................................... 613-135-0730 Red Cross..................................................... 613-135-1111 REAL ESTATE Alexander Real Estate (See ad on page 36).... 613-135-0212 TOURISM Loreto Tourism Office.....................................613-135-0411
Holland America Cruise Ship 2010 Schedule April 29 • 8 a.m. – 5 p.m
8
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
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Municipal/Municipal
Fire Department.............................................612-122-0054 La Paz Tourism Office.....................................612-124-0278 Museum of Anthropology...............................612-122-0162 Port Captain...................................................612-122-0243
to the La Paz area, blow from Bahia de La Paz keeping the temperature mild. By Air, La Paz is served by Manuel Márquez de León International Airport with flights to the U.S., Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey. Two ferry services operate from Pichilingue outside the city, connecting the Baja California peninsula to the mainland at Mazatlán and Topolobampo. By Road, La Paz is served mainly by two highways, Highway 1 that links the south of the state from Cabo San Lucas to the north of the peninsula until Tijuana, and Highway 19, which connects La Paz with the population of the South Pacific towns like Todo Santos and El Pescadero.
GOVERNMENT SEMATUR......................................................612-125-8899 Baja California Sur State Government.............612-124-0199 La Paz Post Office
DINING
Home Decor Ricky Ricardo’s Home Furnishings (See ad on page 34)..................................612-145-0379
LODGING
Police City Police......................................................612-122-4692 Green Angels.................................................612-125-9677 Fed. Judicial Police.........................................612-125-2665 Highway Patrol....................612-12203-69 & 612-122-5735 State Jud. Police.................612-122-6610 & 612-122-1399
Cafe Capri......................................................624-123-3737 Gorilla’s Grill1................................................612-128-8095
Hotels La Concha Beach Resort . .............................612-121-6344 Los Arcos .....................................................612-122-2744 Marina Hotel .................................................612-121-6254 Mediterrane ..................................................612-125-1195 Seven Crown Hotel .......................................612-128-7787
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
FERRY SERVICE Baja Ferries....................................................612-125-7443
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Named “Pueblo Mágico” in 2006, Todos Santos is a small coastal town at the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains, on the Pacific coast of the Baja California Peninsula, about an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas and an hour south from La Paz. Located at 23°26´56˝N 110°13´32˝W, Todos Santos is very near the Tropic of Cancer in the municipality of La Paz. The population was 4,078 at the census of 2005. During the 19th century Todos Santos thrived as the Baja sugarcane capital. Now the rich farmlands have been reworked and the town prospers from an abundance of avocado, vegetable and chili farming, papaya and mango orchards, fishing and ranching.
The mission Nuestra Señora del Pilar de La Paz was founded by father Jaime Bravo in 1723. This mission contains the statue of the Virgin of Pilar, which is the focus of the town’s main festival in October. More recently, there has been an increase in tourist activity and a boom in real estate development. Handicraft shops, art galleries, upscale restaurants, boutique hotels and restored colonial buildings have contributed to the gentrification and redevelopment of the town. There are many beautiful beaches within a 30-minute drive. Playa Las Palmas and Playa Los Cerritos are great beaches for swimming and shell collecting, and Los Cerritos attracts surfers from around the world.
Municipal/Municipal
Home Decor Ricky Ricardo’s Home Furnishings (See ad on page 34)..................................612-145-0379
Todos Santos
LA PAZ DOWNTOWN La Paz, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur La Paz (“The Peace”) is the capital city of Baja California Sur located at 24.1405°N 110.3123°Wand is an important commercial center. Its surrounding municipality, which is the fourth-largest municipality in Mexico in geographical size, in 2005 reported a population of 219,596 living on 7,828.2 square miles of land. La Paz is typically dry and warm with averages of 75–77 degrees Fahrenheit, and 300 days or better of sunshine annually. Summer months are often in the 90’s and can be humid. The winter months can drop below 60, but stays mostly in the mid-60’s. During the summer the cooling Coromuel winds, a weather phenomenon unique
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Todos Santos, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur
Medical Cruz Roja 065 or............................................612-122-1222 ISSSTE Hospital.............................................612-122-2789 IMSS Hospital................................................612-122-7377 Salvatierra Hospital..............612-122-1496 & 612-1221596
Hospital........................................................ 612-145-0095 Mayor........................................................... 612-145-0365 Post Office.................................................... 612-145-0330 State Police................................................... 612-145-0198
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
Art Galleries Contemporary Mexican Art.............................612-145-0215 Charles Stewart Gallery/Studio.......................612-145-0265 Colores de Mexico.........................................612-145-0106 Ezra Katz Gallery............................................612-137-3473 Galeria Arturo................................................612-145-0773 Galeria de Kathleen Gambogi..........................612-145-0460 Galeria La Poza..............................................612-145-0400 Galeria N. E. Hayles........................................612-145-0183 Galeria On-ce Photography.............................612-145-0550 Galeria Wall....................................................612-145-0527 Jill Logan Galerîa (See ad on page 34)........612-145-0151 La Polilla...................................................01-331-255-7965 Michael Cope.................................................612-145-0500 Wendy Faith, artist in glass.............................612-145-0255
Real Estate services Omni Services...............................................612-123-4888
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Shopping Cactus Arte Mexicano....................................612-145-0771 Casa Juanita..................................................612-140-0069 La Canada del Diablo Muebles Rusticos.........612-140-0069 Curios Tony....................................................612-145-0356 El Perico Azul.................................................612-145-0538 Fenix de Todos Santos....................................612-145-0808 Galeria Santa Fe.............................................612-145-0301 Mangos.........................................................612-145-0451 Manos Mexicanas..........................................612-145-0538 Regalos Diana-Dos Glorias.............................612-145-0324 Uguet Tiles and Marble...................................612-127-2776 Hotel California Emporium..............................612-145-0525 Real Estate King Y Asociados...........................................624-151-5840 Amerimex......................................................612-145-0050 Maya Roca....................................................612-145-0464 Milagro Real Estate........................................612-145-0219 Moniely Real Estate........................................612-145-0540 Pescadero Properties.....................................612-145-0756 Ricardo Amigo Real Estate ............................612-145-0551
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
www.mexicolivingguide.com
9
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{Welcome to baja}
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LOS Barriles, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur Los Barriles is a quaint little town 45 minutes north of the San Jose Del Cabo Airport and 65 miles south of the La Paz Airport, and only a 90-minute drive from the hustle and bustle of Cabo San Lucas. The consistent winds and beautiful, white sandy beaches make Los Barriles a hot spot for water and wind enthusiasts from late November until early March. One of the top Wind Surfing and Kite Boarding destinations
in the world, Los Barriles offers postcardperfect beaches and a couple of small, well maintained hotels ready to serve the needs of Baja travelers. In addition to wind and water sports, Los Barriles is considered the Bill Fishing capital of the world. During the summer months the area offers exceptional fishing for Marlin, Sailfish, Dorado, Tuna and Wahoo.
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
Jewelry Copper River Designs (See ad on page 34).. 624-159-4780 RV Park Paraiso del Mar RV Park................................. 624-355-5782 Salon Naty Salon (See ad on page 4)..................... 624-141-0346
FISHING Hotel Los Pescadores.......................................... 624-121-8786 Hotel Hotel Los Pescadores.......................................... 624-121-8786
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San Jose del Cabo, BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR San José del Cabo is located in Baja California Sur and is the seat of the municipality of Los Cabos at the south end of the Baja California peninsula. In the 2005 census it had a population of 48,518. Together with neighboring Cabo San Lucas it forms a major tourist destination for travelers, particularly from North America. The two cities are served by Los Cabos International Airport. San José del Cabo offers you tranquility and old world charm, wonderful gift shops showcasing the art of Mexico, fabulous restaurants, fishing, golf, surfing and all the
Municipal/Municipal
Fire Department............................................ 624-143-9000 United States Consular Agency Emergency 24hrs.............. 619-692-2154 or 624-143-3566
DINING
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
Gonza
Mayan Resort Golf Course
American Applebee’s.....................................................624-172-6472 Asian Baan Thai Pan Asian Restaurant and Bar........624-142-3344 Burgers & More Baja Brewing Company..................................624-146-9995 Cactus Jack's Bar and Grill.............................624-142-5601 Die Trying Cafe..............................................624-142-5657 Coffee & Baked Correcaminos Cafe........................................624-142-3510 International Local Eight Restaurant...................................624-142-6655 Havana Supper Club.......................................624-142-2603 Italian & Pizza Buon Appetito................................................624-142 4040 La Dolce Italian Restaurant.............................624-142-6621 Mexican Don Emiliano Restaurant................................624-142-0266 Casianos Restaurant...................................... 624 142 5928 Brisa Beach Club and Restaurant......................624-142-244 Habanero's Restaurant...................................624-142-2626 Jazmin Restaurant..........................................624-142-1760 Seafood La Panga Antigua Restaurant and Bar.............624-142-4041 Steak La Bodega Steak and Wine House..................624-142-6619
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nighttime entertainment you seek. Or you can just relax on one of our many pristine white sand beaches. For nature lovers, a beautiful protected estuary with a variety of fish, turtles, dolphins, exotic marine animals and over 100 species of birds is located on the southeast edge of the city. And the historic artist colony of Todos Santos is an easy one-hour drive to the north, along the scenic Pacific Ocean. Local residents take pride in restoring the town’s 18th century architecture and preserving its quiet, laid-back ambiance.
LODGING
Hotel Baja Vacations.............................................. 877-462-2226 Barcelo Hotels and Resort...........................(624) 146-7500 Cabo Surf Hote............................................. 624-142-2666 Desire Resort & Spa..................................... 624-142-9300 Hotel Las Pescadores.................................... 624-121-8786 Posada Chabela............................................ 624-172-6495 Posada Real Best Western........................... 624-142 - 0155 Suites Las Palmas......................................... 624-142-2131
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
DENTISTS Cabo Cosmetic DentaL...................................624-143-0520 Golf/Marina to Real Estate/Bienes Raíces Cao Riviera – Margaret Hedges......................624-191-9303 Medical Red Cross......................................................624-143-3300 Emergencies..................................................624-144-3434 Hospital.........................................................624-143-7777 Cape Air and Land First Response Ambulance.... 624-143-5900 Centro Medico Cabo San Lucas.....................624-143-9727 Nursey Jungle Cactus (See ad on page 34).............. 624-122-0324 Police Police Cabo San Lucas...................................624-143-0057 Treament & Recovery Rehab in Mexico................................... +52 818-331-0911
ATM
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ATM Casa de la Cultura
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Cabo San Lucas, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur Cabo Maritime Center
Cabo San Lucas (aka Los Cabos or San José del Cabo in Mexico, and Cabo in the U.S.) is at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula at 22.88°N 109.90°W, in the state of Baja California Sur. As of the 2005 census, the population was 56,811. It is the largest community in Los Cabos, and the secondlargest in Baja California Sur. The warmth of the waters, the beauty of its beaches, the abundance of fish, the raucous party atmosphere, a resort studded Tourist Corrider that stretcuhes between the twin towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo in miles of pristine white beaches, and other qualities is quickly making Cabo San Lucas a highend vacation destination.
Cabo San Lucas has the largest Marlin tournament in the world. In the winter, pods of whales can be observed in the ocean bearing their calves in the warm waters. Served by the Los Cabos International Airport for general aviation flights and air taxi service, the town is also a popular port of call for many cruise ships. Exclusive hotels and gated residential communities attract the rich and famous in this wondrous region known as “The Corridor.” Considered some of Latin America’s top resorts, many of these properties have become havens to Hollywood stars, Fortune 500 CEOs and even the U.S. president during the 2002 Asia-Pacific Economic Conference (APEC).
Municipal/Municipal
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
Ambulance........................ 066-624-142-0316 (Red Cross) Consumer Affairs (Profeco) La Paz 01........... 612-122-8088 Fire Dept............................................ 068 or 624-142-2466 Taxis......624-142-0580 or 624-142-0105 or 624-142-0401
City Chamber of Commerce..................................624-143-0437 Family Protection...........................................624-143-0586 Gas Leaks......................................................624-143-1292
DINING
FISHING Charter Solmar V (See ad on page 33).......................866-591-4906
LODGING
February / febrero
om
January
s & Ente
t
Christm as in B aja
ingguide.c
Baja New
rtainmen
■ Holid ay Tradit ions ■ Unique Gift Ide as ■ Shoppi ng in Ba ja ■
2010 No. 32 - www .mexicoliv
/ enero
2010
rtainmen
t
Plus:
Plus:
Just ■ Foul Play or. . . a Runaway Disappearance The Mysterious of Karen Wright
■ La Bufadora “must-see”
An absolute just wonder of the world— of Ensenada 20 miles south
Condor ■ Return of theon, North
Close to extincti flying bird America’s largest returns to Mexico
■ The Origins of Ne Year’s Resoluti w Page 31 ons ■ Assis ted Liv ing in Me Health & Beauty xico ■ Bank ing Basic Page 25 s in Ba ja ■ Hell No, I Wo People & Voices n’t Go!
Carnava1l0
20
4th Anniversary Edition
Get the Guide At:
Plaza Villa de Mexico
Hotel Tesoro Los Cabos
Hotel Bahia Hotel.......................................... .........624-143-1888 Best Western Cabo Las Flores Hotel............ 624-143-6199 Casa Pablito......................................... .........624-143-1971 Hotel and Plaza Los Arcos ........................... 624-143-0702 Mar de Cortez Hotel............................. .........624-143-0032 Siesta Suites Hotel............................... .........624-143-2773
2009
The passing fishing legend
Plaza de la Danza
Mexican Panchos........................................................624-143-2891 Ay... Chihuahua..............................................624-143-3280 Baja Cantina...................................................624-143-0225 Margaritaville.................................................624-143-7401 Mi Casa.........................................................624-143-1933 Restaurant Pancho’s & Tequila Bar.................624-143-2891 Seafood La Golondrina................................................624-143-0542 Lorenzillo’s....................................................624-105-0212 The Blue Turtle...............................................624-143-1118 Villa Serena....................................................624-145-8244 International Peacocks.......................................................624-143-1858
Plus: mous This veno t delicacy a gourme
/ diciembre
ng Tony Reyes ■ Rememberi of a Baja
ATM
ATM
& Art
Saltwater ■ Baja’s Scorpion fish offers
ter Playgr ounds of Pacific Ba Sea of Cor ja & the tez
Plaza del Sol
Cabo Wabo
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{Welcome to baja}
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Marine Harbor Master................................................624-143-4771 Medical Alcoholics Anonymous...................................624-147-5516 Ambulances...................................................624-143-4020 Social Security Hospital..................................624-143-1548 Health Center.................................................624-143-0102 Red Cross......................................................624-143-3300 Police Federal Highway Police..................................624-146-0573 Municipal Police.............................................624-142-0361 Police San Jose del Cabo...............................624-142-0361 Traffic Police..................................................624-142-3748 State Police....................................................624-143-0296 Highway Patrol...............................................624-143-3977 Federal Police.................................................624-143-1210 Real Estate Cabo Riviera - Margaret Hedges (See ad on page 37).................................624-191-9303 Treament & Recovery Rehab in Mexico................................ MX 01-800-724-0911
Rosarito Beach, BC D’Groomer Dog La Bamba 50’s Diner Magañas Restaurant To the Top Elevators Click-On Mail Bobby’s By the Sea R.B. Hotel Coffee Shop Baja Open House Baja Mart Whale’s Tail Deli Medio Camino Restaurant InCare Casa El Jardín Baja Medix Consultorio Dental Rosarito-Ensenada Alternative Healthcare Foxploration Centro Turístico Popotla Susanna's (btw El Nido & Sr.Froggs) Hotel Festival Plaza Hotel Brisas del Mar. Buffet Ortega's Restaurant Rosarito Beach Hotel Restaurantr Rene's Ensenada, BC Baja Country Club El Rey Sol Hotel El Rey Sol Restaurant CasaMar Restaurant Happy Pharmacy Steven Dryden - contact Hotel St. Isabel Tourism Office San Felipe, BC Amor Property Baja Nueva Bar Miramar Botica Sagrado Corazon Casey’s Place Charley @ south Chumpos Pizza CSI Dr Jason El Pelicano FatBoys Jackass La Vaquita LillyAna’s PDO Beach Bar Rancho Otro Riviera Liquors San Felipe Liquors Santa Fe Pharmacy Sundance Sunrunner YetMail El Rosario Cactus Hotel Catavina Desert Inn San Quintin, BC El Jardin Restaurant/Bar/Hotel
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San Ignacio, BCS Rice & Beans Resturant Ignacio Springs B&B
Mulege, BCS Hotel Serenidad Hotel Hacienda Mely's Restaurant Hotel Mulegé Las Terrazas Hotel Lavamatica Mulegé Carlos' Internet Los Equipales Restaurant Rice & Beans & More Restaurant Las Casitas Bar/Restaurant/ Hotel Asadero Danny's Internet Minita El Patron Bar & Restaurant Pancho Villa's Bar & Restaurant Saul's La Tienda El Mesquite Bar Scott's El Candil Bar & Restaurant Taco shop( (behind Hotel Hacienda) La Palapa Restaurant Tienda Vista Azul Restaurant Bar Del Cortez Mini Market Gùera Carmelita's Restaurant Ana's Restaurant/Bar (la playa Santispac) Bertha's Restaurant & Bar (la play el Burro) Loreto, BCS Coco Cabanas Hotel Tipui Silver Shop La Daminana Loreto Islas Tiburon Rentals Rentals Loreto Gecko Curios Dali's Alexander Real Estate Mita Gourmet El Dorado Motel Juice Guy Augie's Mission Hotel Oasis Hotel Desert Inn Rivera del Mar RV La Paz, BCS Hacinda del Sol Land's End Realty OMNI Services Kettle Corn Tailhunters Los Gaviotas Hotel Rancho Viejo Tequilas Toscano Pizza Gourmet
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
Corey Tours Gorilla's Grill Baja Challenge Rickey Ricardos Los Barriles, BCS Baja Beach Invenstments Home and Land of Baja Gisela Talamantes Saenz, LLM Attorney at Law C & G Builders Bahia Real Estate Baja Properties Paraiso del Mar RV Park Coldwell Banker Hotel Los Pescadores Tia Pablo's Grill & Tienda Galeria de LunaSea San Jose del Cabo, BCS Angel´s Touch Dental Coldwell Banker Blue MedicalNet Land's End Realty Habenero's Grill Pasquales Pizzaria Mi Enselada Dental Cabo Center La Fonda Restaurant Die Trying Cabo Tequila Boutique Dream Home Real Estate Century 21 Shooter Bar Cabo Riveria Baja Properties Cabo Coffee Villa Valentina Cynthia's Restaurant Todos Santos, BCS AmeriMex Realty Las Fuentes Bar & Grill A.Paraiso Realty Coldwell Banker Vacation Rentals Centro Cultural Jill Logan Gallery Zen Garden Restaurant Il Giardino Pizzaria Museo de Barrio Galeria de Hayles Miguels Restaurant Bodega Lizzarga Marcado Rickey Ricardo's Gallery Cabo Linda Real Estate Hotel California Cabo San Lucas, BCS Happy Endings Bar Wild Canyon Adventures Cabo Cosmetic Dental Cape Realty Restaurant Mi Casa Doc wine bar Mama's Roal Cafe Hotel Mar de Cortez Pancho's Restaurant
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Contributors Mexico Living is only possible through the continued contributions from all these knowledgeable and talented people. If you would like to become a contributor, email mexicoliving@gmail.com. George Bergin, Steve Dryden, Benjamin Eugene, Steven Forman, Tom Gatch, Bob Ham, Lynn Hamman, Stockton Hill, La Huerita, Lucy E. Jackson, Graham Mackintosh, David Mandich, Dann Manz, Alexa Verdugo Morgan, Karri Moser, Penny Nask, Greg Niemann, John Pack, Rachel Pack, Lynn Russ, Lisa Shannon, June Snow, Cai Tierra and Robin Waters. .............
Featured Contributor: Tom Gatch
Mailbag
Fishing Memories
Being an avid fisherman, I just wanted to tell you that the article by Tom Gatch, “Baja Bacalao,” which appeared in your January edition, brought back many fond memories of my younger years as a fisherman. I can no longer get out as much as I want, nor do as much as I used to, but I do still enjoy talking about it and reading fine tales. I hope you print more articles such as this in your magazine. —Tony Peters, Baja California Tony, I have to agree—Tom Gatch definitely has a way with words. If you haven’t read the March edition, you may want to check out Tom’s “Baja’s Saltwater Scorpion: Saga of the Sculpin.” And, you don’t want to miss his article this month. Tom tells me that pargo is fabulous!
Great Info
January issue: Great as usual. “The Gypsy Journal”: I almost got to the question of can I
drive to San Filipe on Highway 1 from Loreto. I’m told it is worth a drive, but I want to have a look. Your maps show the road stops at Puertocito and some maps show various dirt roads continuing further south; any recommendations? February: More great info! “Mother to be,” you get married first and then get pregnant, especially with language, cultural and perhaps religious differences. The traditional Mexican man has no respect for women, though it is changing slowly. Look elsewhere for a solid relationship. “Centavo’s Two Cents”: I concur with Penny, and after 37 years in media, I’m really good at mime (even with a Mexican wife who speaks no tech Spanish) and entertain at the same time, and we all have a laugh. La Huerita, good on ya!!! —Joe Wachter, Loreto Joe, thank you for all of the kudos. As you know, I’ve already sent you information on the drive from Loreto to San Felipe. I’ve also passed along your input to “Mother To Be,” and your compliments to Penny Nask and La Huerita.
Why?
I’m just curious as to why some letters to the editor, or as you refer to it “Mailbag,” contain the full name and city, and others do not. Why is that? —Vicki Nutter, North Carolina Vicki, great question! Well, as you already know, when you sent me your question, I replied back to you with the answer; but, in addition, I asked if I could use your full name and asked you where you live. If you had answered that you would prefer that I/we not give your full name and the city you hail from, we would respect your privacy and not print that information. This policy is not limited to just the “letters,” but also to the “OP-ED,” Reader Connection page or any other correspondence where a reader would prefer to remain semi-anonymous. In addition, if WE think that it would be in the reader’s best interest to remain anonymous, we will not print their last name or city.
Us Send a k c b d Fee
As always, we’re interested in your HONEST feedback. So, send your opinions and comments to editor@mexicoliving.info. Letters may be edited for length and content. Make sure to visit us online or pick up a copy of next month’s edition to find out what others REALLY THINK!
Guide on the Go Jesus Felix of Baja Cummins in La Paz, Baja California Sur., enjoys practicing his English while reading the guide. ....
Over the past decade, Hooked on Baja author, Tom Gatch, has built a solid repuHave a humorous or creative picture of you and tation as one of the foremost authors and your guide to the good life? Email your photo to Mail Center photographers focusing on outdoor and receditor@mexicoliving.info and show the world! reational topics in southern California and the New owners: • Internet Baja Cummins is a full service Cummins and Baja California peninsula. Tom’s widely read Ron & Susie Stephens Onan authorized and trained company. • Copy “South of the Border” column and articles Same Great Service • Fax appear in each edition of The Log, SoCal’s #1 Same Great Price Boating & Fishing newspaper, and his popular US Mailing Address • Shipping “Hooked on Baja” column is published in the • Forwarding Baja Times, Baja Norte’s oldest English lanKM 178.5, • Stamps guage newspaper. Plaza Paraiso, e r Mail Center San Felipe • Envelopes Tom is also a seasoned restaurant reviewer, whose mouthwatering descriptions of popular ers: • Free Wifi New owners: MENS regional restaurants have provocatively stimu• Copy & Fax Ron & Susie T-Shirts ens Stephens lated the appetite of many a reader. His com• Shipping Tanks ice Same Great Service pany, EL PUERTO Creative Consultants S.A. • Forwarding de C.V. provides professional copywriting and ice Same Great Price • Stamps LADIES creative support for entities in both the United ess US Mailing T-Shirts Address Choose Internet Café & Business Center • Envelopes States and Baja California. Tanks from several Copies • Internet • Email • Greeting Cards Both he and his wife, photographer Lynn 3/4 Sleeve Snail mail • Coffee • Muffins colors • US Mail Service 5, KM 178.5, Gatch, are full-time Baja California residents, Soda • Snacks A v aParaiso, i l a bKM l e 178.5, a t S uPlaza n r u nParaiso ner and live just south of the city of Ensenada. so, Plaza 01(661)614-0513
Sunrunner
r Sunrunner
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April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
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Get a U.S. Mailing Address
• Internet • Copy • Fax • Shipping • Forwarding • Stamps 6• 8Envelopes 6 - 5 7 6 - 0 3 76San80Felipe 6 - 1 4 7San - 6Felipe, 7 5 2Baja
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Spanish 101
Contrary to popular belief, it’s not that easy to learn Spanish just by living in Mexico. If you want to communicate with locals and enhance your language skills, you have to make an effort.
The easiest way to learn is to start with little chunks at a time. To assist you, each month we will provide just a few nouns, verbs, conjunctions, phrases, road signs, etc. In addition, the Pronunciation Guide for vowels and consonants will be available in each issue.
PRONUNCIATION
Vowels a - like a in father e - like e in ten i - like ee in see o - like o in rose u - like oo in shoot; silent following q or g, except when written with an umlaut (ü) ai, ay - like y in try au - like ow in cow ei, ey - like ay in day ie - like ye in yellow oi, oy - like oy in boy Consonants b - b and v are the same; at the beginning of a word or after m or n, like an English b without a strong puff of breath; otherwise intermediate between an English b and an English v. c - before a, o, u, and any consonant but h, like k in kitten; before e or i, like s in sit. cc - like cc in accept d - at the beginning of a word or after n or l, like English d without strong puff of breath; otherwise, like a softer th in this. g - when followed by e or i, like h in hit; otherwise like g in gold. h - silent j - like h in hot; ll - like y in yes q - like k in kite, followed by ue or ui (u is silent) r - at the beginning of a word or before a pause at the end of a word, like rr; otherwise like dd in ladder. rr - with a pronounced trill ü - like ny in canyon v - same as b x - like English x; in words derived from Native American languages, sometimes pronounced like h in hit (Mexico) y - standing alone, like Spanish i; otherwise like Spanish ll z - in Latin America, like s in sit
As well as practicing the words and phrases every day, be sure to get out and talk to locals. Talking with natives . . . in Spanish! . . . will assist you with proper pronunciation and tone, and enhance your listening and speaking skills. If you practice the information given in each edition every day, you’ll see a dramatic improvement in your Spanish skills in no time. ¡Hasta luego!
ADJECTIVES
aquel - that (over there) alguno - some, someone (pron) bueno - good cierto - certain, sure, true cada - each, every
ADVERBS
además - also, as well, besides ahí - there ahora - now allí - there, over there antes - before
CONJUNCTIONS
aunque - although, even though como - like, as cuando - when donde - where mientras - while, whereas; as long as
año - year casa - house caso - case, occasion parte - part, portion cosa - thing
algo - something, somewhat cuál - which? cual - which, who, whom él / ellos - he / them eso - that
PERSON I - (+o) yo you (friend/child) - (+s) tú he, she, you - (+ ) él, ella, usted we - (+mos) nosotros, nosotras they, you all - (+n) ellos, ellas, ustedes abrir - to open bailar - to dance caminar - to walk
Hablar - to talk “AR” hablo - I talk; I am talking
comer - to eat “ER” como
vivir - to live “IR” vivo
hablas
comes
vives
habla
come
vive
hablamos
comemos
vivimos
hablan
comen
viven
preguntar - to ask buscar - to look for
COMMON PHRASES
ROAD SIGNS
a - to, at ante - before, in the presence of bajo - under, underneath contra - against, opposite con - with
PRONOUNS
Regular verb conjugations: Present (when it is happening now)
My name is... Me llamo... What's your name? ¿Cómo te llamas? How are you? ¿Cómo está? Fine, thanks, and you? Bien, gracias. ¿Y usted?
NOUNS
PREPOSITIONS
VERBS
ACOTAMIENTO - Soft Shoulders ALTO - Stop AREA DE DESCANSO - Rest Area ASCENSO Y DESCENSO DE PEAJE A 100 m - Toll Booth Barrier Ahead in 100 m CALLE SIN SALIDA - Dead End CAMELLON CENTRAL - Center Divider CAMINO CERRADO - Road Closed CAMINO SINUOSO - Winding Road CARRIL IZQUIERDO SOLO PARA REBASAR - Left lane Only for Passing CARRIL LATERAL SOLO POR VEHICULOS LIGEROS - Laterals Only for Light Vehicles CASETA DE COBRO - Toll Booth CEDA EL PASO AL PEATON - Give Way to Pedestrians
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I'm lost. Estoy perdido(a). Thanks for your help. Gracias por su ayuda. Hello/Hi! Hola/Qué tal! Good morning/Good afternoon. Buenos días/Buenas tardes. Good evening/Good night. Buenas noches.
CON LLUVIA DISMINUYA SU VELOCIDAD - In Rain Reduce Your Speed CON NEBLINA ENCIENDA SUS LUCES - In Fog Turn on Lights CONCEDA CAMBIO DE CIERRE SU ESCAPE - Close Muffler By-Pass CONCEDA CAMBIO DE LUCES - Dim Your Lights Approaching Traffic CONSERVE LIMPIO BAJA CALIFORNIA Keep Baja California Clean CONSERVE SU DISTANCIA - Keep Your Distance CONSERVE SU DERECHA - Keep to Your Right CRUCE DE ESCOLARES - School Crossing
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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{News}
Paredones Amarillos Open Pit Gold Mine Status
Photo courtesy of wired.com
by Karri Moser
The Berkeley, Montana, open pit mine as seen from space.
Photo courtesy of obscuraday-berkeley-pit.eventbrite.com
“Water is worth more than gold” is the rallying cry that has worked to halt, at least temporarily so, the Paredones Amarillos open pit gold mine project. The residents of Baja California Sur have opposed Vista Gold Corporation's plan to obtain the permits and rights to extract gold from the La Paz area. The proposed site is also close enough to the Sierra de la Laguna Biosphere Reserve to be of cause for concern. On February 22, 2010, Vista Gold Corporation was denied the application for a Change of Forest Land Use Permit. The Mexican Secretariat of Environmental and Natural Resources (SEMARNAT) denied the application to the Vista Gold Corporation's Mexican subsidiary Minera Paredones Amarillos. The reason given by the agency for the denial cites insufficient information given as to the mines effect on biodiversity and erosion in the area, amongst other issues with the application. Vista Gold Corporation does not agree with the reasons for the dismissal and they plan to amend the application, address any of the specific concerns and re-apply for the permits to begin the process.
The Berkeley Pit . . . once a huge copper pit mine, now a toxic man-made lake of extremely acidic water.
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April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
Vista Gold Corporation contends the Paredones Amarillos open pit gold mine site will meet all safety and environmental regulations. They state they will use environmentally sensitive mining techniques. They also say the mine will create many jobs for the area. Vista Gold Corporation cites the potential to create 400 construction jobs and 300 mining positions. They have also proclaimed plans to create a foundation for health care support and education in the Baja California Sur area if they do begin to mine the area. Public opposition to any plan to mine gold in the Baja area has been growing steadily as the local population has become educated about open pit mining and the potential dangers to the area. There are several ways to mine gold from the earth. Open pit mines are commonly cited as one of the most environmentally destructive methods. It basically involves blasting away massive amounts of the earth and creating a large open pit. In fact, some of these open pits throughout the world can actually be seen from space due to their size and overall disturbance of the natural environment. The pits most resemble open sores or ulcers on the earth’s surface. One particular open gold mining pit that can be seen from space is the Berkeley Pit in Butte, Montana. It was a working mine from 1955 to1982. The 1,780foot pit now contains 900 feet of contaminated water. The water is contaminated with arsenic, sulfuric acid, cadmium, and other acids and minerals. The contaminated water
is actually compared to the chemical makeup of battery acid. There is a real and undeniable possibility that this will eventually contaminate the surrounding waterways. Some of these mines are left open and contaminated forever after all the gold is gone. Water contamination is not the only concern when it comes to open pit gold mining. The natural landscape is literally stripped and blasted away. This means everything, plant and animal life, is also stripped away. The water table, plant life and natural levels of biodiversity are altered entirely. Because of the amount of water that needs to be brought in for operation, desalination often accompanies the mining process. The amount of water needing desalination for the mine to operate has the potential to disrupt and negatively impact the sea turtle and whale habitat in the Baja area. Any open pit mining operation in the area will also encroach on the buffer zone of the Sierra de la Laguna Biosphere Reserve. This area provides a lot of the water supply for the Baja California Sur area, along with being a major source of pine and oak. This particular area is recognized by the United Nations Education Scientific and Cultural Organization as a world biosphere. Many local citizens understand the delicate balance that exist within the reserve and naturally want to take steps to ensure its protection. The process of mining the actual gold also drudges up many harmful chemicals that contaminate the area. The process uses lead, arsenic and cyanide, which adversely affects ground water, livestock in the area and agricultural practices. For every 37 tons of actual gold taken out of an open pit mine, 3,700 tons of arsenic is unearthed and exposed. Any major storm, such as a hurricane, is capable of spreading the arsenic to where it can directly leach into important waterways. Open pit gold mining has been a source of contention for many communities. Gold mining
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corporations are constantly looking for new sites to explore and extract gold from. Currently, 200 Canadian gold mining companies are investigating 400 locations in Mexico to possibly pursue gold mining operations. In the past, these pursuits have divided communities and caused civil unrest, with violent consequences at times. An anti-mining organizer in Chiapas, Mariano Abarca, was shot in November after being the target of many threats and assaults for his opposition to mines in his community. Local organizers and environmental groups have been very outspoken about their opposition to plans for the Paredones Amarillos open pit gold mine; www.vistagoldno.com has been putting the word out to keep citizens aware of the process and has also provided information letting Baja citizens know how they can show their opposition. Opposition groups informed Baja California Sur Governor Narcisco Agundez Montano of local concerns about gold mining and its potential to harm the environment. He too has supported the opposition. The National Commission for Biodiversity also objects to the mine plan due to the potential environmental impact. For now, the opposition has worked to halt the issuance of the necessary permits; but Baja citizens need to remain aware of Vista Gold Corporation's plans to re-apply. Vista Gold Corporation projects they could extract approximately 1.2 million ounces of gold from the area if they are able to get the permits issued. Vista Gold President Fred Earnest and the Paredones Amarillos project manager Carlos Calderon both have publically stated through the company that the process will be safe and held to the highest environmental standards if they are able to proceed with mining in Baja. Vista Gold Corporation also currently states through online updates that they are working with legal counsel and experts to advance the permit process.
Register Your Cell Phone Before April 10 or It WILL be Deactivated
{News}
New Mexican Passport Law by Lynn Russ
by Karri Moser
In February 2009, legislation was passed requiring every cell phone number in Mexico to be registered to an individual. The law officially goes into effect on April 1, but cell phone providers have had a year to get the word out. If you have purchased a phone since April 2009, you do not need to take any further action. Registering a phone can easily be done through your provider. The required information is your name, date of birth and your state of birth. This information is matched against an existing database, or CURP. Once it all matches up, you will receive a text verifying successful registration. CURP, which is comparable to a U.S. social security number, is unique to each citizen. If you are not a citizen of Mexico, you naturally are not part of CURP. Non-citizens must be fingerprinted and present their passport in order to register a phone. Phones from other countries can still be used without registration. It is vital that everyone takes the time to register any phone which was bought and activated before April 2009. If you do not register the phone, you will find it useless. The provider network will expediently deactivate any phone that is not registered by April 10, 2010.
While many question why the registration is necessary, others realize that Mexico is actually joining a long list of other countries that have already required each phone to be registered. The law has come about to help law enforcement officials prevent the use of cell phones, both stolen and legitimately bought, from being used in criminal activity. As cell phone technology has advanced, there has been an increase in the use of cell phones in extortion, kidnapping and other criminal activities. By having an active database storing identity information on each and every cell phone bought in Mexico, police can trace and identify users who use the phones in criminal activities. Even though this mandatory registration may help reduce cell phone use in criminal cases, many see easy-to-maneuver loop holes in the plan. First, you can register a phone in someone else’s name by simply knowing their name, birthday and state of birth. This information can be easy to obtain. Also, many question whether there are safeguards in place to prevent someone from using the information of a deceased person. Regardless of the potential to get around the law and use a cell phone for criminal purposes, it will go into effect. The potential for criminal use means each and every law-abiding citizen needs to be very cautious with their phones. It is very important to report a missing or stolen phone immediately to your network operator. This will keep you from being held responsible for what your phone is used for if it is not in your possession.
The new Mexican passport law went into effect February 28, 2010. The law requires U.S. and Canadian citizens to present passports when entering Mexico by land, air and sea. However, there are exemptions, which directly apply to the border towns. Visitors to the border regions, which the law defines as areas encompassing 20 kilometers or 12.5 miles south of the border, and also visitors planning to stay less than 72 hours do not need to worry about the new passport requirement. Those who visit and do business with border towns, along with those who depend upon those visitors, are breathing a sigh of relief, as the new passport law would have presented more difficulties and delays for those who wish to tour or do business in border towns only. Cruise ship patrons who disembark in Ensenada are also excluded and can expect to see no change in the requirements to enter the country. The Baja California Tourism Secretary has assured area businesses that they should have no worries about disruptions or lost business. There are already border issues that have had a negative impact on commerce between the U.S. and Mexico. The federal government has been working to install new inspection systems that will detect contraband or weapons more effec-
Changes in Immigration Procedures
tively than before. This has led to border delays. With the current amount of resources available at busy ports such as San Ysidro and Otay Mesa, enforcing the new passport law for those only visiting border towns for short periods of time would only have led to longer delays and more frustration. The law should not adversely affect the typical U.S. or Canadian citizen in the long run even if they plan to visit further into interior Mexico. Changes in U.S. policy have meant U.S. visitors typically have passports or passport cards in hand when they visit Mexico anyways. Roughly 90 percent of all U.S. and Canadian travelers to Mexico use a passport to cross the border and go back home even before the law went into effect. For those who come into the border towns without a passport but then later decide to stay beyond the 72 hours and travel further into the country, they will need to obtain a tourist card. These can be found at the border or at the Mexican Consulate. The purpose of the law is to coincide with the requirements already adopted by the U.S. and Canada. With the legal exceptions for the border towns included, citizens of Mexico’s border communities can rest assured the borders are being kept secure and commerce and tourism will be able to flow freely just as before.
Effective May 1, 2010
by Jacob Sapochnick
Mexico’s National Migration Institute has published its Manual of Criteria and Migration Procedures. The Manual will be enforced as of May 1, 2010, throughout the 32 delegations of the National Migration Institute in Mexico. Courtesy of AILA member Enrique Arellano. The intention of the National Migration Institute is to clarify, streamline and simplify processing requirements for each immigration category. Applications currently being processed and those filed before May 1, 2010, will be analyzed and processed based on current policies, practices and procedures. Some of the most relevant aspects of the Manual are the following: • All migratory forms for tourists, business visitors and technical visitors with lucrative activities, who intend to stay in Mexico for up to 180 days, will be replaced by a single “FMM” form (“Forma Migratoria
Múltiple”). The FMM will serve as evidence of the foreign national’s immigration status while in Mexico; • The business visitor criteria are clearly defined. This new FMM form has an option for choosing the purpose of the visit as business (negocios), which once the foreign national enters Mexico, the immigration officer will grant a 180 days stay. • There are three different options that the immigration officer might mark and that will grant the foreign national 180 days: a) Business (Visitante Persona de Negocios), b) Visitor with Lucrative Activities (Visitante con Actividades Lucrativas) and c) Visitor with Non-Lucrative Activities (Visitante con Actividades No Lucrativas). Any of the previous allow the foreign national to visit Mexico for business, either for working purposes or only for meetings.
• In case the purpose of the business visit extends more than 180 days, the foreign national will have to file for a change of Immigration status to obtain the correspondent FM3. • The ABTC (Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation business travel card) criteria are clearly defined; • In the following weeks, the National Migration Institute will publish the formats of the new migration cards that will replace the FM2 and FM3 booklets. Changes of activity, domicile, marital status, etc., will no longer have to be annotated on the migratory document, thereby allowing the foreign national the ability to travel in and out of the country while a change of status/conditions application is in process without having to request an exit and reentry permit;
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• Consular Posts will no longer issue FM2 or FM3 booklets. Instead, the Consular Post will place a visa sticker on the foreign national’s passport, upon receipt of the petition’s approval from the National Migration institute. The sticker will allow entry into Mexico within 365 days of issuance. Upon entry, the foreign national must obtain the new FM2 or FM3 migration card within 30 days. Jacob Sapochnick is recognized as one of the most innovative, up-and-coming Immigration Lawyers in the nation. He devotes 100 percent of his practice to Immigration Law, representing corporations, hotels, restaurants and other organizations, as well as entrepreneurs and individuals worldwide. He also provides legal support and representation in family-sponsored immigration matters.
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
www.mexicolivingguide.com
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{News}
Rosarito Mayor Disputes Accuracy and Wording of the U.S. State Department's Travel Alert for Mexico
Straw Bale Houses
Perfect For San Felipe’s Dogs and Cats! by Steven Forman aka “Dogman”
The below letter was sent by Rosarito Beach Mayor Hugo Torres to Stephen Kashkett, Consul General of the U.S. Consulate in Tijuana, on March 1. While recognizing the good work of the State Department, it expresses concerns with the wording of a travel alert for Mexico issued on February 22.
Dear Consul General Kashkett,
ZAPP Animal Center in San Felipe has been open for a few months and I thought it was time to check in and give you a progress report. ZAPP has 7.5 acres in the desert; a great deal of needed space, especially with our “open door” policy in place, which prevents us from turning away any dogs, cats, kittens or puppies in need. We currently have more than 200 animals on-site. Many puppies and dogs have already made the trip to the States for permanent placement at “no-kill” shelters. Other dogs and cats will be with us for life, if they cannot find suitable homes. We’ve begun working with PETCO in El Centro doing adoption weekends throughout the month. The goal, of course, is to find homes for as many puppies, dogs and kittens as possible. We’ve had some typical problems that all rescues and shelters face from time to time. It’s definitely a learning curve, and we continue to gather more experience each and every day. We now use a 24’ x 60’ trailer specifically designated for isolation and quarantine of all new puppies. Dr. Mario Alberto Calvo, DVM, has relocated to San Felipe from Mexicali and joined our staff. A second parttime vet covers for him when he is off. Our promise to San Felipe and its animals was to provide a fully operational urgent care center that is available
24/7 to handle emergencies and treat animals in distress. Our new Surgery clinic opened on-site in March, complete with everything we need to provide solutions for all animals in distress. X-Ray and ultrasound equipment are next on the list. We have completed 20 of our 40 15’ x 30’ runs complete with energy-efficient straw bale houses that are constructed of plywood floors, walls and ceilings, along with 24 bales of straw, covered in stucco—extremely cool in summer and warm in winter—perfect for San Felipe weather extremes. The on-site “catterie” opened in March, and is surrounded and covered by chain-link fence. Our next fundraiser is not scheduled until November, but Hold On! The “Baja Chihuahua Race” is coming—a 2K pet walk around the Pavilion at El Dorado Ranch, where folks and their pets can participate in contests and compete for bragging rights. Santa Claus will be present to take pictures of locals and their furry kids against a painted Christmas background, just in time for online and Holiday greeting cards. Stand-up comedy, music, and lots of food and games are also planned. That’s it for now. Stop by and visit—bring towels, blankets, dog food or money. We never have enough. (686) 111-1143 or (686) 190-3432. www.sfzapp.com.
I am writing this letter to express my concerns with the U.S. State Depar tment’s updated Travel Alert for Mexico issued on Feb 22. While it is a travel alert and not a warning, I believe it presents an inaccurate portrait of conditions in Baja—including Rosarito—and will unfairly increase safety concerns. I appreciate that the alert begins by stating that “millio ns of U.S. citizens safely visit Mexico each year (including tens of thousand who cross the land border every day for study, tourism or business and nearly one million U.S. citizens who live in Mexico.)” But most of the remainder of the alert is a summ ary of violence throughout all of Mexico, caused primarily by the government’s crackd own on organized drug cartels and confined overwhelmingly to those involved in that international effort. If the same approach were taken in an alert for the U.S.—prima rily listing high risk areas and detailing crimes there—people would be afraid to travel anywhere in the U.S. That would not be fair. The alert states that a “number of areas along the borde r continue to experience rapid growth in crime” and cites Northern Baja California as being one of those areas. That is not accurate. Year-to-year crime in this region was down 10 percent in 2009. In Rosarito it was down 21 percent, to a five-year low. That includ ed a 24 percent drop in robberies and burglaries, a 38 percent reduction in violent crime s and a 56 percent decrease in homicides. I both understand and share the U.S. State Depar tment’s concern for the well being of its citizens who choose to visit or live in our region —we have an estimated 14,000 in Rosarito alone and we value them highly. But I also ask for your assistance in getting the wording of the alert changed so that it more accurately reflects the reality of this region. Sincerely, Hugo Torres, Mayor Rosarito Beach Baja California, Mexico
The South Campos by June Snow
The people of the South Campos decided that they needed to have a place to get together and discuss their life in a foreign country. So, a meeting was arranged at a local restaurant in San Felipe for all concerned. It was packed! We explained it has been increasingly apparent that an organization where we could seek information, advice, legal consult, etc., regarding our status as non-citizens owning or renting property in Mexico was very important. I firmy believed that this would benefit both cultures. The misunderstandings that had come about due to 16
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
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the lack of communication, and ignorance of the law, on both sides were staggering. Rest assured that this was in no way intended to be anti-Mexican, but rather a bridge to better understanding. Our initial plan was to elect officers by popular vote. There is strength in numbers. So, we sincerely hoped the tenants would join us and bring their ideas, questions and moral support. The name we decided on was “Campos Educational Group.”S.C.E.G.” And, we are now celebrating our 12th year!
{News}
New Same-Sex Marriage Law in Mexico City
Good Deeds to Good Times in La Paz by Alexa Verdugo Morgan
by Magnolia Velázquez, The News
Beginning March 4, the legal modifications allowing same-sex marriage in Mexico City was implemented, despite the appeal of unconstitutionality filed by the Federal Attorney General’s Office, said the mayor of Mexico City, Marcelo Ebrard. Ebrard explained that the government of the Federal District is ready to sanction civil marriages between two persons of the same sex, and that 52 judges from the Registry Office have been fully trained to perform the civil unions. “We have taken measures to make sure that the judges in charge of marriages are qualified and that the facilities of the Registry Office are all set. We have to respect the law and this law is valid. We will implement it,” Ebrard declared. According to the government of Mexico City, 22 homosexual couples have expressed the intention of getting married in City Hall, although
they have not presented all necessary documents to the Registry Office yet. In order to facilitate civil unions and issue marriage contracts, the Registry Office of Mexico City has issued three different forms to fill out: one for “Marriages Between Her and Her,” another for “Mariages Between Him and Him” and a last one for “Marriages Between Her and Him.” Homosexual couples need to have lived in Mexico City for at least six months and present such proof of residence to the Registry Office in order to get married in the Federal District.
Around Town in Loreto with Lynn Hamman
Juanita Pedrin, owner of Vamos Con Pedrin, with her Bartender.
El Taste Restaurant has been closed for over two years, and Vamos Con Pedrin has now taken possession of that building. Vamos Con Pedrin is open from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., seven days a week. You can’t help but find something to eat or drink on the menu—Steaks, Chicken, Salads, Hamburgers/Sandwiches, Traditional Mexican Combinations, Seafood, Soups, Omeletes, Smoothies, Beer/Cocktails and Juice/Soda. Vamos Con Pedrin is located on the corner of
B. Juarez and Zapata (across the street from the Pemex Gas Station). Juanita Pedrin is the new owner and is looking forward to serving you. She also caters private parties and special events (Baptisms, Birthdays, Anniversaries, etc.). Internado of Colonia Zaragoza lost their beloved dog Willy who lived a full and blessed 14 years. The Internado has other dogs, but needed a replacement for Willy. Linda Nicholls, who has been a volunteer there for 18+ years, had been searching for a replacement. Well, she didn’t need to look long or far since puppies (and older dogs) can to be acquired for a song. The children lined up with excitement to pet the new addition to the school. The children had decided that the puppy’s name would be “Willy 2” (or Willy Dos . . . however you want to look at that). With 50+ children here, a dog at this school will never lack attention. Willy Dos will never know how lucky he really is! If anyone out there would like to adopt a dog, contact Misty Mattics at Animanandia at bajamisty@gmail.com.
View of Carnaval de La Paz from the Tailhunter Fubar Cantina
Despite lower attendance than previous years, swarms of tourists and locals alike still flocked to this year’s Carnaval de La Paz, held February 11–16. The event, which included musical and comedy performances, children’s rides, and the coronation of the King and Queen, culminated in a three-day parade themed “Alegria Bicentenaria,” celebrating 200 years of Mexican independence. Located on the Malecon between Calles Torre Iglesias and Salvatierra, the Tailhunter Fubar
Cantina, owned by Jill and Jonathan Roldan, served as the perfect spot for a bird’s-eye view of the festivities, with courteous staff and a fishermanfriendly menu. The couple also own the Tailhunter International Charter fishing fleet, based right here in La Paz. Reservations can be made at www.tailhunter-international.com. Eleven sailing vessels participated in the First Annual Carnaval Regatta, an exciting race from Punta Prieta to Isla Partida and back. Organized by Club Cruceros de La Paz, A.C, a non-profit group for boaters both visiting and living full time in Baja Sur, the event was held February 13–14 and the annual Valentine’s Day Dance followed. Entries were divided into two categories, spinnaker and non-spinnaker, with the overall winner being s/v Gitana. Awards and congratulations were handed out at the Perico Marinero Bar on February 21.
¿Qué Pasa San Felipe? Cheeseburger in Paradise Party
This sleepy little fishing village has not been so sleepy lately! We’ve had the pleasure of having Baja race pre-runners in our midst for the last several weeks, and now we wait for all the Baja 250 Race festivities to begin! On February 26th, Las Amigas hosted San Felipe Has Talent at the Pavilion at La Ventana del Mar (El Dorado Ranch). San Felipians came out in droves to see the amazing talents our residents have to offer. There were singers, dancers and skits, including Campo Ocotillo Group’s “A Shopping We Will Go.” What a hoot that was! For anyone who travels up to El Centro for shopping
adventures, this skit would have really hit home! Las Amigas raises money for educational scholarships for San Felipe students of all ages, from Intermediate School to University. Denny and Sandi Flannigan hosted Cheeseburger in Paradise Party on March 2 at their home in Playa de Oro to benefit the Snarlin’ Cholla Racing Team. George Jackson and Belinda Eastman have been hosting these parties at different homes for the past 10 years, and this one had the largest crowd ever. Race fans enjoyed perfect San Felipe weather, great cheeseburgers and fun music. A special treat was “home brew” by the Baja Brewers Club. March 5–7 was the Tequila Festival on the Malecon, benefiting A Child’s Garden charity to provide medical treatment to the children of San Felipe. It was hosted by the BajaMar Group, Tecate and Cotuco. For more information about the charity, visit www.achildsgardensanfelipe.com. Check this column for Baja 250 haps next month! Until then, be well, be safe and be HAPPY!
J.B. and Lynn took first place at the Mulegé Chili Cook Off on March 7 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Cheeseburger in Paradise Party
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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{Calendar}
Send your calendar events to calendar@mexicoliving.info. Please tell them you found their event in Mexico Living.
IMPORTANT DATES Mar. 31–Apr. 4: Semana Santa/Easter Week 2010 Apr. 1: April Fool’s Day Apr. 2: Viernes Santo/Good Friday Apr. 4: Domingo de Resurreccion/Easter Sunday Apr. 4: Daylight Savings Time begins (MX) Apr. 4: Easter Sunday Apr. 5: Easter Monday (Canada) Apr. 22: 40th Anniversary Earth Day Apr. 30: Día del Niño/Children’s Day (MX) May 1: Día del Trabajo/Labor Day (MX) May 1: 136th Kentucky Derby (U.S.) May 5: Cinco de Mayo May 9: Mother’s Day (U.S. & Canada) May 10: Mother’s Day (MX) May 15: Armed Forces Day (U.S.) May 24: Victoria Day (Canada) May 31: Memorial Day (U.S.)
LOCAL WEEKLY EVENTS See the Community Calendar on www.mexicolivingguide.com for a weekly schedule of events for each city.
ROSARITO BEACH
Apr. 11 and May 9: Second Chance Animal Alliance Tradepost (SCAAT) FREE SPAY/NEUTER CLINIC 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. For more info, contact Karen Patonai at (661) 613-0737 or karenpatonai@yahoo.com Apr. 17: Rosarito Ensenada 50-Mile Bicycle Ride. A Pacific Coast and inland ride through rural countryside from Rosarito Beach to Ensenada. (646) 174-0033 Apr. 17: Cheve Beer Fest. (661) 6120700 Apr. 18: MX Grand Prix Rnd. 4. (661) 612-2525
ENSENADA
Apr. 1–4: Guided Whale Watching Tours. (646) 172-5444 Apr. 17: Rosarito Ensenada 50-Mile Bicycle Ride. A Pacific Coast and inland ride through rural countryside from Rosarito Beach to Ensenada. (646) 174-0033 Apr. 23–25: 63rd Newport to Ensenada Yacht Race. U.S. (949) 644-1023 Apr. 23–25: 11th Annual Festival of New Wine & Mollusks Seminars. (646) 1783038 May 1–2: Cabalgata Vaquera El Alamar. A 4–5 hour guided horseback riding adventure at Parque Nacional. Contact Alfredo Vizcarra at (646) 179-5074 May 16: Fiesta of the Flowering Vineyards/Fiesta de los Viñedos en Flor. Info and tickets: Baja California Winemakers Association (Provino), (646) 178-3038 18
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
Baja Blondes
A New Kind of Reality Television Three independent, intelligent, innovative and gorgeous blondes are setting out to change the way the world sees Baja. Robin Leigh Mackenzie, Susanne Stehr and Debbie Shine have filmed and produced a pilot episode of a new kind of reality TV show called Baja Blondes. The 15-minute pilot was derived from eight hours of footage, which includes interviews with all three women, along with shots and highlights of the beautiful area they love to live and work in and wish to paint in a positive light. The concept for the show came about as Susanne and Debbie watched the media and other outlets put forth a negative view of life in the Baja area. With the constant bombardment of drug cartel crime stories coupled with a U.S. State Department travel alert for the area, tourism and business has dropped considerably for the Baja region. According to Mackenzie, over 300 businesses have gone under primarily due to the decline of tourism. The collapse of the economy and housing market in the U.S., especially the secondary housing market, also contributed to the decline of tourism and business in Baja. Instead of idly standing by and riding out the rough economic seas, Susanne and Debbie teamed up with San Diego producer Robin Leigh Mackenzie to present a more positive view of life and work in Baja. The show depicts these three as successful American women who are thriving and surviving just fine in the picturesque backdrop of Baja, and having fun in the process. These three have come together from varying backgrounds. All three are successful American women who bring amazing life experiences to the table to make the show that much more unique and enticing. Robin Leigh Mackenzie grew up anywhere and everywhere. As a military brat whose father was in the Air Force, she traveled extensively and attended four different high schools in the process. After a whirl wind journey of going to the University of Kentucky, flunking out, marrying, having two kids, divorcing and ending up a single mom, Mackenzie went back to school when her children set off for college. She attended UCLA and discovered her true calling of screenwriting. She founded the Women in Film San Diego and has produced a women filmmakers’ series for the San Diego Film Festival. Other professional credits include producing and writing Mothers and Daughters and a reality cooking show called Gourmet for a Day, along with numerous plays. She is the founder and producer of Tatblue Productions, which is behind Baja Blondes. Susanne Stehr is a California-born-and-bred beach girl and UCLA alum who has worked for many high-end and exclusive Southern California resorts and hotels. She handled over 500 weddings during this time in her life. After moving south and working in the military aircraft parts industry with her husband, Susanne opened a small and successful furniture store at Pueblo Plaza. She currently owns one of the most successful restaurants in Rosarito Beach where you can get the best wines Baja has
to offer. Susanna’s restaurant has hosted hordes of tourist, athletes, actors, politicians and artists. Debbie Shine is originally a New Jersey girl who ended up following a musician boyfriend to Berkeley in the '60s. This led to a stint designing costumes for his band, then on to traveling with the Pointer Sisters and the Go-Go’s. She made her way to Rosarito Beach and worked with James Cameron on Ghost of the Abyss. She also opened a small boutique in Rosarito and has spent the last several years doing interior design for others who make the move across the border. The pilot episode of Baja Blondes is complete and gaining the attention of industry insiders. It is currently being shopped around to media outlets; and they also hope to team up with the Mexican Tourism Board to utilize the show as a new approach to advertising tourism in the area. Mackenzie says, “It is outside of the box advertising. We are Americans. We can talk to the American tourist. We are trying to change the thinking of old-school advertising.” Rather than just making Baja a dream destination of the typical tourist the MTB has been targeting for years, the Baja Blondes hope other successful American business women will see Baja as a safe and beautiful place to live and work. Other outlets the Baja Blondes are pursuing for the reality show include The Travel Chan-
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nel, Lifetime and, potentially, the Oxygen network. The LA Secretary of Tourism also believes the idea and concept of Baja Blondes can work to increase tourism in Baja, according to Mackenzie. Aside from revamping how living and working in Baja is seen by outsiders and increasing awareness of opportunity and success in the area, these women are also showing a different view of how women are portrayed on reality television shows in general. They are not your typical fame seeking young girls who are willing to throw each other to the wolves for airtime. They are professional, intelligent and accomplished mature women who support and root for other successful women. If more episodes of Baja Blondes are ordered by media outlets or the MTB, the show will focus on other American women who live and work in Baja. To prove just how much buzz the show is generating, Baja Blondes were awarded a Rosarito City Recognition Award by Mayor Torres and the city council for their promotion of a positive image of Baja. More information on the reality series Baja Blondes can be found at www.thebajablondes. com.
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63rd Newport to Ensenada Yacht Race, April 23–25 Photo by Mary Longpre, Longpre Photography, shesailor1@aol.com
by Benjamin Eugene
After 62 years of the oldest of all races from the U.S. to Mexico, it's never the same. From year to year, the wind and sea conditions are seldom the same. The race is open to boats from high-tech ocean racers to Mom and Pop trailerables. The minimum size limits are 18 feet for monohulls and 20 feet for multihulls. Don't be one of those West Coast sailors still kicking yourselves for missing last spring's 62nd Newport to Ensenada International Yacht Race that had a moderate but steady breeze for the
ages and swept the fleet all 125.5 nautical miles on a direct track to the finish, leaving most of the weekend to party. Keep the faith. There is only hope of another dream breeze this year and, as always, the onshore fun is guaranteed. The historic race is organized by the Newport Ocean Sailing Association (NOSA). Like other major sailing events in the early days of the recession last year, the usual turnout of 400 to 500 boats slipped to 270 entries and 260 starters; but only three failed to finish by 4 p.m. Saturday after a single night at sea, leaving the rest of the weekend to enjoy the hospitality of the colorful seaside pueblo. Like last year, non-sailors also may join in the fun by opting for a Carnival Cruise ship, tour buses or personal ground transportation. The fun picks up a beat for 2010. It will start with the pre-race fiesta at Bahia Corinthian Yacht Club the Thursday night before the start, continue after the finish with a new program of musical
entertainment on the Ensenada waterfront plaza Saturday night, then conclude Sunday with the Fiesta del Vino leading into the colorful awards ceremony Sunday afternoon. Entries for the 63rd world's largest international yacht race starting Friday, April 23, opened in early January, but there is still time. Online entry is available on their website. The entry fee is $155 through March 31 and $205 afterward. Registration, including payment of entry fees, will be available online at www.nosa.org or call U.S. (949) 644-1023.
Apr. 1–14: Whale Watching Excursions in Guerrero Negro, BCS. (615) 157-0100
LORETO
Apr. 30–May 2: Loreto Fest 2010. Three days of fun. Contact Neil Charlton, wdc7139@yahoo.com. Apr. 18: Earth Day Celebration. 4th Annual Bay of Loreto Kick-off event for Loreto Community Pride Week. Sponsored by Bay of Loreto National Park. vwilkerson7@hotmail.com
LA PAZ
by Benjamin Eugene
Hotel and travels along the Pacific Coast and inland through rural countryside along the Mexico Highway 1 free road to the Ensenada finish line located at Plaza Ventana al Mar, on Boulevard Lazaro Cárdenas, under the giant Mexican flag. As many as 10,000 bikers will enter the race, and with spectators, friends and family that join in the celebrations, the finish line party can exceed 25,000 people. This event attracts all kinds of people. You'll see colorful costumes and wildly decorated bikes. You see all types of bikes, from tandem and trikes to BMX and beach cruisers. The race course is relatively easy, staying at sea level the majority of the way, with the exception of “El Tigre,” a two-mile hill that climbs over 800 feet. You'll see many bikers walking this stretch of the course. Once you get to the top, it's mostly downhill all the way into Ensenada.
BAJA TOUR
10 city flamenco guitar and dance tour of Baja being presented by Mexico Living
www.bajaflamenco.com The starting line begins at 7 a.m. with the Finish Line celebrations starting at noon and going until Sunset. There is secure bike storage, so you can enjoy the celebrations without worrying about your bike. For more information, visit www.rosaritoensenada.org.
Cabo Marine Show 2010, April 16–17 From first launch, this unique annual event is being billed as the most important nautical/marine show in the Los Cabos destination as well as Baja California Sur, Mexico. Principal nautical products and service providers, marinas and resorts, as well as sailing and yachting enthusiasts from the U.S., Canada and Mexico will converge on the Marina Golden Zone of the Cabo San Lucas marina, in a venue they won’t soon forget. Official event sponsors include Marina Fiesta Resort & Spa, Luxury Avenue Boutique Mall and Puerto Paraíso Mall, which together form the Marina Golden Zone in Cabo San Lucas. Supporters include Los Cabos Conventions & Visitors Bureau, Los Cabos Municipality Tourism
Apr. 2: Las Amigas Luau. Contact Carol Goddard, jcgoddard@aol.com Apr. 3: South Campos Annual Poker Run! $25 Entry fee, includes T-shirt and drink tickets. Contact Carol Reams, (686) 111-1021 Apr. 17–18: Code San Felipe 200 off-road race Apr. 22: Earth Day, Beach Clean up at Casey’s Place, 8 a.m. www.SanFelipeBeach.org Apr. 28: Full Moon Mixer at El Dorado Ranch. (686) 577-0022 May 8: Annual Chili Cook Off Club DePesca. Contact Joseph Malek, (686) 2335206 May 15: Dia del Maestro/Teachers Day by the City of San Felipe and DIF.
MULEGé
The Original Party on Wheels The Rosarito to Ensenada 50-Mile Fun Bike Ride is a annual event that takes place in Rosarito, Baja. This scenic and award-winning race takes place two times per year, April and September. This year's dates are April 17 and September 25. The Rosarito Bike Ride attracts cyclists from all around the world, and is open to all ages and experience levels with top riders finishing this event in under two hours. The Rosarito Ensenada Bike Ride began in 1979. The ride starts in Rosarito near the Rosarito Beach
SAN FELIPE
Dept., Marquis Los Cabos Resort and Sheraton Hacienda del Mar Resort and Mexico Living. Cabo Marine Show 2010 boasts an extraordinary exhibitor area, set in the heart of the Cabo San Lucas’ Marina Golden Zone. Charter companies and water activities promoters—sportfishing, boating and luxury yachting—as well as resorts and marinas, hotels and world-class golf courses will offer their products and services to the select Los Cabos local and travel market, its visitors and the eyes of the international travel media, in a venue that is sure to offer something for everyone. This is a two-day event you won’t want to miss! Times are Friday, April 16, noon to 9 p.m., and Saturday, April 17, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Admission is FREE to the general public.
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Apr. TBA: Tequila and Mariachi Festival. U.S. (866) 504-2252 Apr. 8–11: Bayfest 2010. Club Cruceros’ event at La Costa Restaurant. www.clubcruceros.org Apr. 29: Piano Recital. Guadalupe Parrondo performs at 8 p.m. at the Sala de Conciertos. Admission is 100 pesos. www. bcs.gob.mx May 7: Piano Recital. Sudcaliforniano pianist Juan Pablo Bautista Cano performs at 8 p.m. at the Sala de Conciertos. Admission is 100 pesos, www.bcs.gob.mx May 15: “Raise the Roof” Benefit Gala for La Ciudad de los Niños y Niñas. Contact Chris at 124-8302 or cgk@jumpstart1.com.
LOS CABO
Every Thursday Night: San José del Cabo Art Walk along Obregon Street behind the church, sipping wine and viewing fine art. 5–9 p.m. Apr.: Whale Watching Season. Spectacular views of whales just offshore abound from October through April. Of the world’s 11 species of whales, 8 come to Los Cabos to breed and nurse their young. Apr. TBA: Annual Halibut Derby. The annual Halibut Derby unfolds on the East Cape. (310) 827-4855 Apr. 16–17: Cabo Marine Show 2010. Contact Sergio, sergio@cabomarineshow.com or (624) 125-4216. www.cabomarineshow.com May TBA: Rolex Invitational IGFA Offshore Championship Release Tournament. (866) LOS-CABOS May TBA: Yellowtail Shootout. A day trip from Cabo San Lucas. (818) 762-5873
TODOS SANTOS
Apr. TBA: “Earth Day” Celebration
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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{People & Voices voices}
La Huerita on . . . Everything!
Centavo’s Two Cents
Home Remedies, Mexican Style
Ain’t No Mountain High Enough by Penny Nask
Mike and Priscilla Pegg walking their dogs on a beautiful Baja day.
After viewing the Vancouver Winter Olympics from Baja California I found it difficult for my body to call up a “shiver.” The television told me just how cold it was there, that it snowed often and that everyone had on fierce winter clothing as they gathered around a cozy network fire to discuss Olympic events. This year Mother Nature blew cold weather and snow all over North America. I kept reading about record storms, torrential rains and disastrous floods. While all this was going on I was getting a suntan and collecting shells on the beach here in San Felipe. The Olympic TV coverage shook me back to a weather reality that I left behind many years ago. I remember snow boots, hats, leggings, scarves, mittens and coats that added several pounds to any activity that we wanted to do in the snow. You couldn’t walk normally once you were dressed for the outdoors. You waddled to your sled. Your nose hairs froze instantly, but you expected this when you went out to play. I can still call up the smell of wet wool when our snow clothes were drying on the heater. San Felipe got another cold snap in late February, but it wasn’t enough of one to make much difference to us. We organized an off-road vehicle trip where we found ourselves in the middle of a fossil bed that was developed from a time when the ocean covered the terrain we were
Massage Therapy FULL HOUR - ONLY $35
Call for an appointment
686-577-1431 www.sanfelipe.tv
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April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
Centavo aka Pamela Esther Nask (“Penny”) Co-owner of Simpatico Arts, she is a writer and an art historian, whose luck in these fields has given her an early retirement. She attributes “laughter” as the best possible stimulus for life. pennynask@yahoo.com riding on. It was thrilling! During the same trip we stopped for a picnic just below a mountain made of quartz. We climbed it in sandals. This April we are planning fishing trips, rides in our ATVs and more excursions down the coast of the Sea of Cortez. The wine country is a short distance from us and we look forward to sampling the wines of the area. In our neighborhood we relish each others companionship knowing that we have all made the best choice of location for our retirement. It’s easy to get together, to watch the sunset from a neighbor's rooftop with drinks in our hands and smiles on our faces. We are planning events for our casual futures. Because Baja is loved so much, we watch the daily transformation of a simple Ramada being closed in, or rooms added to an existing living space. This makes us happy because we know that once you are here . . . you never want to leave. It just makes sense to “add on.” Baja is growing at a comfortable rate as we gather around blueprints of our neighbor’s homes. As some of us build and play we watch the daily changes of our snow-covered mountain. It reminds us that we can continue to get where we were going and that our adventure is a continuous climb. Before we know it we will be swimming in the ocean again and waiting for summer.
Everyone knows, or ought to know, that the best remedy for a hangover is a big steaming bowl of pozole. There are restaurants all over Mexico that serve only pozole, quite naturally called “pozolerias.” They do especially good business on weekend mornings when customers come in for a bowl to cure what ails them. But did you know that a cure for a bad cough is a glass of warm milk with honey and garlic in it? I found that out the hard way when I had a bad cold and my cough kept my neighbor awake all night. She knocked on my door the next morning with her offering and a gentle smile, and I had to drink it right there on the spot. It wasn’t good, but maybe it helped a bit. And did you know that the fastest way to stop the itch of a mosquito bite is to rub it with a piece of bar soap? Being a mosquito magnet, that one I can vouch for! Diarrhea, of the short-term type that we’ve all experienced from time to time in our lives, can be stopped dead with a teaspoon of ground nutmeg in a glass of water. That usually works within a couple of hours. Don’t ask me why. One of the really fun things about living in Mexico is learning all of the great home remedies and fixes that people know. Mexicans are endlessly inventive and, besides the store of cures that have been handed down through generations, they can fix just about anything, at least long enough to keep things going until a better fix can be arranged. Want to know the fix for a hole in your radiator? Well, that requires a short story. Once I lived in a small Mexican town that was short on many amenities. One of those amenities was money, and I had a gringo friend who suffered from that shortage. She drove an old
La Huerita An artist and writer, La Huerita and her husband operated an online travel magazine for nearly a decade— until they noticed they were doing more writing than traveling. Her philosophy: When it stops being fun, stop doing it. La Huerita now operates the blog Rocky Point Tides, and she’s having fun! lahuerita2@gmail.com
pickup truck that suffered not from a shortage but from a surfeit of holes in its radiator. She did not have the money for a new radiator. What to do? While discussing the problem with a neighbor one day, the neighbor’s grandfather came out to see what was going on. He sized things up and told her he could fix it. “Wait here,” he said. “I’ll be right back.” He disappeared into the house and returned with a box of oatmeal, which he calmly poured into the radiator. Then he filled the radiator with water and told her to start it up. It WORKED! And until she could finally afford a new radiator, she always carried extra oatmeal and water in her truck. Of course, there was always a film of oatmeal covering the front of the truck and the windshield, and it didn’t do much for what was left of its paint job, but HEY! Whatever works, right? Oatmeal and nutmeg—home remedies to stop the leaks that plague you. Viva Mexico!
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661-100-6218 661-100-6218• •125*317*7317 125*317*7317
Thank Thank You You ROTARY! ROTARY!
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The Rotary Club San Felipe TheofRotary Club of San Felipe Meets every Meets every Monday 8 AM Monday 8 AM at the at theBar Barefoot Bar ElBarefoot Cortez Hotel El Cortez Hotel
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Tribes and Tribulations
{People & Voices voices}
by George Bergin
Sometimes on The Travel Channel or National Geographic we get to see westerners meeting and greeting tribal people around the globe. It is always a treat to watch the clumsy visitors attempt to quickly learn the various greeting customs; the posturing, body language, exchange of words or small gifts that mark the first important ceremony. What we don’t usually get a chance to see is what happens next. If the visitors should linger, for weeks, months or longer, to fit in, it is necessary for them to learn much more than new handshakes. Those parts of Baja California that can be called rural are home to small groups living off the land or sea, and we could still call them tribes. Some of you have wandered through the villages of such tribes as you read the fascinating histories of the area, the people, in books and stories by explorers. The whole concept is a forest for the trees thing because those who have spent most of their lives in Baja California think of the place as though it were an island. Islands and tribes go hand in hand. Isolation is key. Tribes consist of families. The colorful history of Southern Baja California recalls the founding of the place by an unusually small but prolific number of families whose names ring out in every voting roster of every small hamlet near the tip of the peninsula. Down here, if you, like our clumsy TV westerners, want to fit in, you need to learn the customs and some things about the families, the clans, the tribes. It takes time. It is taking me forever. Before I could recognize the tribe thing I stumbled about telling new friends their cousins were lazy liars, paying great homage to all the wrong people while ignoring the whole family of the next mayor. I did not know that if I befriended the Cosios, I would not be trusted by the Montaños. I recognized
George Bergin George Bergin retired with his wife, Lynda, to La Ribera, a small village at East Cape in 1996. A former insurance executive in Las Vegas, Nevada, George’s love for the desert and outdoor living, drew him south to roam the Laguna Mountains, fish, and write books, short stories and news items for Southern Baja California periodicals.
way too late that my key to meeting the mountain people, being invited to see their world would hinge on my courtesy toward the little guy who built my palapa. Were I to apply for a business license it might depend on something I said or did on the beach three years ago. Trouble with the law, going before the local judge might turn good or bad because of my behavior last week on a visit to the dump. After 10 years in this little village I am still a stranger. Every encounter with my Mexican neighbors has hidden danger or opportunity I still don’t quite fathom. I’ve learned that every small thing I say or do is magnified in importance to where I stand in the eyes of the villagers— every courtesy is deemed more grand, every unintended slight or dismissal augurs poorly for my reputation. There are times when the villagers take me in, treat me like one of their own. These are the rare occasions when we are together witnessing some blatant discourtesy by a newcomer; a new, clumsy westerner meaning no harm, but is unfamiliar with life among the tribes.
Ugly Graffiti by John Pack
The Mexican police were going to throw us in jail and we would rot in the La Paz jail without anyone to bail us out or bring us food. It wasn't so much myself I was worried about, it was Rachel. I'm sure I could handle going to jail, but I would never want Rachel to have to go through it. Yet there we were, just before dawn risking it anyway. “You stand over there and yell if you see any cops,” I told Rachel. About 100 yards away was what looked like some sort of administration building, for what I didn't know. However, I did know it was far away from me and had plenty of shadows to help hide Rachel's presence. Just a week earlier, we had arrived in La Paz and Christmas was just around the corner. Throughout La Paz, homes and businesses were adorned with festive red, green and white lights; the shared colors of Mexico and the yuletide. It was a time for fiesta. Unfortunately, our first fiesta turned into a loud exchange between myself and another equally loud and equally opinionated man. No sooner had I sat down with a cold German beer given to me by my generous host, than he generously began insulting San Felipe. “That place is dirty and ugly,” he said to me, knowing very well that San Felipe was our home. So, after promptly telling him he was full of it, which he was. I childishly pointed out some of what I didn't like about La Paz, like traffic and graffiti. I have to admit, I was a little angry at his unprovoked attack, so I barked a little louder than needed; truthfully, my only real problem was traffic. The graffiti was not any worse in La Paz than any big city anywhere. However, the problem I had was graffiti on the La Paz city sculpture of the Whale's Tale/Doves entering the city. We had watched the city workers put up the “Feliz Navidad y Prospero Ano 2010” lights and completely ignore the nasty black graffiti, which, in my opinion, destroyed the holiday spirit. I couldn't imagine why or how someone could be so completely disrespectful. So, that night as the pissing match progressed, and we grew louder—clearly not acting our age—I decided if I didn't like the graffiti, I was going to do something about it. Of course, at this point Rachel had no idea what was going on in my head, only that this guy was raising my blood pressure, so she caressed my arm to calm me down, as she does when she thinks I'm getting to excited. With
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John & Rachel Pack After marrying John & Rachel traveled the United States full time producing live events, until moving to San Felipe Baja to slow down. That only lasted a couple of months. Since then they’ve dedicated themselves to sharing life in Mexico with the world. They have fallen in love with so many of you that they want you to join them as they explore the wonders of Mexico living.
the help of other guests, we changed the subject and finished dinner. When we got home I told her of my plan and she was immediately onboard. Now there we were . . . as the sun started to come up and we could see the cars of the highway coming towards us, I pulled out the white can of spray paint and started spraying directly over the nasty black graffiti. My heart was pounding out of my chest, I couldn't imagine what would compel the criminal to paint his name on the beautiful sculpture, especially standing out in the open as I was, only with black paint instead of white. “I see a cop,” Rachel yelled. I thought my chest was going to explode . . . I was spraying as fast as I could . . . I had to finish. “Maybe he won't see me,” I thought as I continued to paint, “just a little more . . .” The paint can was sputtering as I turned to see not one but two cop pickups and a patty wagon. In the early morning light, I could see the bright glow of red as they hit their breaks, one after the other. As they began to slow, I continued to paint. Now all three vehicles were parallel with the Whale's Tail, so I knew they could see me clearly. The lead car released his breaks and the other two followed. “They must have seen we were covering the graffiti,” I said to Rachel as we reached the car. “Either that or they're turning around,” Rachel replied. With the sun rising brightly, we pulled out onto the highway going the opposite direction of the police and, with our hearts pounding, headed home.
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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{Feature}
Mariachis – The Tempo of Mexico by Greg Niemann
The uplifting sounds and homey folk lyrics of mariachi music has become an integral part of Mexican culture and history. Indeed, it appears the entire Mexican psyche is interwoven with the brassy and bold tempo produced by sombreroclad men in tight-fitting pants, frilly shirts and waist-length jackets. Visitors to Baja restaurants quickly become aware they’re in a different culture when, along with the cervezas, frijoles and totopos (chips), they’re treated to ear-splitting renditions of “Rancho Grande” or “La Cucaracha.” Depending on the restaurant’s acoustics and size, the experience can range from a bombardment of the aural canals to a lovely, romantic interlude on a seaside patio, like at La Fonda, where strains of “Coo coo coo, La Palo-o-o-oma” can caress the waves below. Mariachi is Mexico’s main contribution to the music world, and has entertained diners, motivated dancers and serenaded lovers for many years. The origins of mariachi go back to pre-Cortes days when Indians played music with rattles, drums, reed and clay flutes, and conch-shell horns. The Spaniards brought their violins, guitars, harps, horns and woodwinds, and the blending of the cultures also brought about the blending of the music. One of those music forms was the mariachi, and as no one can agree on the etymology of the name, its meaning has been lost to history. But the music has lived on, its modern form evolving in the Mexican state of Jalisco in the 19th century. Early mariachi groups there consisted of the vihuela (a high-pitched round backed guitar), two violins and a guitarró (a deep-voiced guitar, which took the place of the harp). Today, a complete mariachi group generally has two trumpets, six to eight violins and a guitar, along with the vihuela and the guitarró. Forms of mariachi vary by region and include the son jalisciense, son jarocho, and the jarabe, a medley of dance pieces. (Jarabe Tapatio, or the Mexican Hat Dance, is a notable jarabe). Whenever there’s a special occasion in Mexico you can be assured that mariachis are present.
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April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
Mariachis often participate in the courtship process, and the serenata (serenade) has become a touching and uniquely Mexican experience. Las Mañanitas is a melodious birthday song, and it is traditionally sung early in the morning intended to awaken the recipient. Once I helped a friend plan one for his mother and we all gathered at dawn in the driveway below her window as the mariachis woke up the Los Angeles neighborhood. For my Mexican-American friends, it was another occasion for a party, and tequila and beer quickly supplanted coffee and juice. Those inclined to pass out hardly made it until noon. On another occasion, I hired a mariachi band in the Baja lobster village of Puerto Nuevo. This is what I wrote about the incident in my first book, Baja Fever: “Mariachi music wafts through the now-cobbled streets as musicians stroll from restaurant to restaurant along with purveyors of freshly cut flowers and trinkets made of seashells. Leila and I will never forget that summer weekend in 1985 when we went to the village to hire a mariachi group. We were throwing a party in Cantamar about two weeks hence. “Several groups of musicians lounged in the shade of a tree near the end of the main road, down about where a market is today. We were introduced to the leader of a group who would be willing to come to Cantamar on that date. We began negotiating how many hours they’d play, how much per hour, etc. “As we were closing in on a deal, they proudly offered to let us hear them. We agreed. So Leila and I stood, our arms around each other, in the middle of the dusty dirt road, while this mariachi group serenaded us in the hot August sun. Quickly a crowd gathered out in the road while these guys just kept playing and playing. Their enthusiasm won us over. That we felt special amid a group of gringos didn’t hurt either.” Puerto Nuevo is not the only Baja venue for mariachis. They are everywhere: Rosarito Beach Hotel, Festival Plaza (El Museo Bar), Rene’s and many more restaurants and night spots from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas. Each spring, La Paz
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hosts a Mariachi and Tequila Festival. And in Guadalajara, Jalisco, where it all began, each September there is a Mariachi and Charro Festival which attracts some 50 mariachi groups. Today there are mariachi groups in such diverse places as Aruba, Calgary, Canada, Amsterdam and Germany. There are numerous groups in the United States, including the Mariachi Los Cabos of Salem, Oregon, which performs throughout the Pacific Northwest. California, naturally, has plenty of mariachi groups. One of California’s most famous mariachi restaurants is the La Fonda de los Camperos on Wilshire Blvd. in Los Angeles where two alternating bands have performed seven nights a week since 1969. A touristy place, diners long remember the loud music reverbrating from both a balcony and the main floor. Traveling groups, like Mariachi Esmeralda (based in Montebello) bring the classic Mexican music to venues throughout the Southland. In San Diego, the Baja Brewing Company features the Mariachi Del Mar. The group also plays at El Torito in Chula Vista. In Orange County, mariachi groups entertain at Plaza Garibaldi in Anaheim (Mariachi Espuelas de Mexico), Tlaquepaque Restaurant in Placentia and the El Mariachi Restaurant in Orange. At the El Mariachi Restaurant in San Clemente, unfortunately, you won’t find a mariachi group. There is a live harp player who provides pleasant background music, but no mariachis. It seems too many customers complained when they had a mariachi group in there as with trumpets blaring, and a lot of “ayy-yii-iiing,” it was just too loud. If you like “loud” with your meals—well, that’s another reason to go to Baja! Greg Niemann is the author of Baja Fever, Baja Legends, Palm Springs Legends, and Big Brown: The Untold Story of UPS. www.gregniemann.com
{Activity activity Guide guide}
Taking the Ferry Across the Sea of Cortez by Anna Cearley-Rivas
This is part of a series of blog posts about a 10-day trip I recently took south of the border through the Mexican state of Sonora and then back up north (after a ferry trip across the Sea of Cortez on December 29–30, 2009) through the Baja Peninsula. I have never been on a Carnival cruise, but I have traveled by reed boat along Peru’s Lake Titicaca, jetted in a motor panga through rivers in Nicaragua and once took a very long trip to the Corn Islands sitting on the boat’s deck, squished between other people, animals and sacks of grains. Boat trips, to me, are about exploring new places and setting off on adventures—not so much about lounge chairs and martinis. The idea of crossing the Sea of Cortez (Gulf of California) by boat was alluring to me, in part because I didn’t know anyone else who had taken the 8–10 hour ferry trip between Guaymas, Sonora, and the Baja peninsula. Taking the ferry, it turned out, also requires a zen state of mind. Technically, it leaves at 8 p.m. on four designated days a week from Guaymas. But nature is what actually dictates the boat’s schedule. We had arrived here Sunday and by Tuesday morning we still weren’t exactly sure
when it would leave—or if it would leave before the end of 2009. As we were lounging at the Guaymas hotel pool in travel limbo, we got a call from the ferry office asking us to hurry over and pay for our tickets because the ferry would be leaving . . . at 4 p.m. There were still a few things I wanted to check out in Guaymas. I had learned there was some sort of a dolphin facility in Guaymas/San Carolos, and I had also seen signs for a pearl farm. Instead, we ended up stocking up a cooler with food and drinks for the trip, and making a few other travelrelated purchases before rushing to line up our car for pre-boarding inspection by soldiers and a drug-sniffing dog. We joined about 80 other people waiting to board the ferry, including a platoon of gun-toting soldiers heading for an assignment in Baja. Other ferry travelers included some French guys, members of a band traveling to Baja to perform over New Year’s and a chatty Chinese student, Arnold, who had a visa problem and was waiting out his U.S. appointment in Mexico. We left as the sun was setting over the horizon, so I was able to enjoy the view as we pulled away from Guaymas. The sunset stroked violet and orange colors on the horizon as we headed west
out of the bay. Soon the sorbet canvas above us was replaced by the sparkle of stars and the inky smudge of sky and sea. Most of the people onboard—except for the soldiers in first-class—had bought the ferry’s basic ticket. This got you a seat in a room that was set up like a very wide plane. Two large televisions provided nominal entertainment, and a snack bar immediately in front of the passengers sold overpriced popcorn and other foods. It was hot there, and didn’t look very comfortable. As the evening wore on, the people in the front seats ended up curled on the ground. I was glad we had gotten a cabin. This had cost an extra $75 for the four of us, but it gave us our own space with four bunk beds, a small sink and shelf—and our own porthole. We kept the porthole slightly open to provide air circulation. We had left most of our luggage in the car, but brought with us the cooler with drinks and snacks from Guaymas. There were a lot of doors inside the ferry and lots of curious—or lost—people. At one point during the trip, all four of us were sitting in the cabin when the door swung open and a disoriented soldier stared at us. “Ay, perdon . . . me equivoque.” (Oh, Sorry! I made a mistake). This scenario kept on repeating itself in bad comedic style. We finally just locked the cabin door. I spent much of my time clambering up and down the ferry’s three levels or standing outside, chatting with the other ferry travelers and watching the waves churn below us. At one point, the
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ferry captain and his assistant let us visit the navigation room. The sea was calm and the ride was smooth. I asked about the “worst ever” ferry trip and was told that there had been one particularly rough trip that took 24 hours and that practically inspired mutiny except that the sick passengers were too busy heaving into bags. Around midnight I went into the cabin to doze a bit. At 3:30 a.m. I went outside where about a dozen passengers were hanging out in the darkness. We could see the lights of Santa Rosalia sparkling off the Baja peninsula. It was almost 10 hours since we had left. The lights grew brighter, and soon I could make out the forms of buildings and the dock. We arrived around 4 a.m. and had to check in with Mexican authorities to give our names, show our identifications, and to have our photos taken. The car got another sniff-over by the crime-fighting dog and soldiers, and then we were back on the road. It was too early for breakfast, and too late to go to sleep. We ended up driving about an hour south to Mulegé, but it was still too early to do anything and so we checked into a hotel just outside of Mulegé to rest for a few hours before continuing our journey. For more information, visit www. ferrysantarosalia.com. Anna Cearley-Rivas is a former border correspondent for The San Diego Union-Tribune and, in 2006, she received an award for best Latin American Reporting from the National Hispanic Journalists Association for a series of stories about the effects of the drug trade on Mexican communities. She recently took a 10-day road trip through Sonora, across the Sea of Cortez and back through Baja. Read the entire story on her blog, Across the Border, at http://acrosstheborder.wordpress.com.
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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{Business & Money}
Take a Tour in Your Own Backyard
“Whale’s Tail”
It never ceases to amaze me that no matter where we live, we become complacent and rarely experience all that our local community has to offer. And, when it comes time to take a vacation, we feel the need to go hundreds of miles away. Yes, Baja is your home . . . but, have you looked at it lately? Hundreds of thousands of visitors cross the border every year to explore the exciting attractions, dining, nightlife and shopping that Baja has to offer. And, as a local, you don’t have to leave this paradise to relax or find fun, because everything you need is right here in your backyard. Think about it . . . Baja is affordable, offers free world-class attractions and has an unsurpassed restaurant scene. So, it only makes sense to choose your own backyard—your own town or a neighboring city—for your next vacation, day trip or weekend getaway. To start planning your Baja vacation or weekend getaway, first you need to make a list of attractions you’ve been wanting to see and activities that you’ve been wanting to do, but just haven’t had time. Make sure your list also includes restaurants
that you’ve wanted to try. Drawing a blank? Check out the “Calendar,” “Dining Guide” and “Activity Guide” in this and previous issues of Mexico Living, or visit www.mexicolivingguide.com for tours and activities by city. Some restaurants and attractions even offer discounts to local residents and/or give a discount just by mentioning that you read about them in Mexico Living. Next, even if you’re only a few miles from home, check into a hotel to enjoy the blissful feeling of a vacation. The change of setting and pampering service will be relaxing and invigorating, and you’ll get more pleasure from your vacation without the everyday chores and distractions of home getting in the way. Sleep in, savor a leisurely breakfast, and take the time to enjoy the spectacular sunrise and sunset. Since you’re on vacation, don’t forget your camera. Snap away as you take in the sights and sensations of Baja—your friends won’t believe
Photo by Ken Bondy, Loreto BCS
by Lucy E. Jackson
you had a fantastic vacation without the trouble of driving hundreds of miles away. The beauty of “touring in your own backyard” is that you don’t have to plan far ahead and you can enjoy it on the spur of the moment.
We want to hear about the adventures you found while touring in your own backyard. Email editor@mexicoliving.info to share your stories about something you learned, something you tasted, something you saw or something you never imagined existed in Baja.
THE BAJA BIG LIST: Tours and Guided Travel BAJA PENINSULA Baja Ecotours Region: All of Baja Type: Water Activities Contact: (619) 819-2966, +52 (612) 125-9081, info@bajaecotours.com, www.bajaecotours.com About: Operates a whale-watching base camp at San Ignacio Lagoon, which is a fully functional off-the-grid eco-friendly camp with solar and wind power within their cabins. The camp consists of 15 cabins along with a large palapa. In Business: 10 or more years Operates: Year Round Baja Amigos RV Caravan Tours Region: All of Baja Type: RV Tours Contact: (866) 999-2252, info@ bajaamigos.net, www.BajaAmigos.net About: Provides a camping experience to the RV community that is safe, affordable, enjoyable and unforgettable. Their tours to Baja California promise and deliver majestic vistas, new adventure, a warmer climate and endless beaches. In Business: 1 year Operates: Winter NORTHERN BAJA BajaViajes.com Region: All of Northern Baja Type: Variety of Land and Water Activities 24
Contact: (664) 675-3805, turismo@ bajaviajes.com, www.bajaviajes.com About: Baja California excursions, wine country tours, whale watching, camping, tourist guides, transportation, bookings and customized tours. In Business: 3–5 years Operates: Year Round Casey's Baja Tours Region: All of Northern Baja Type: Variety of Land and Water Activities Contact: U.S. (310) 862-4928, MX (686) 577-1431, jello@hughes.net, www.sanfelipe.tv About: Specialize on The Magnificent Baja Peninsula. Located in San Felipe all year. Most tours start in downtown San Felipe. All drivers speak English, first-aid trained, and carry radios, satellite GPSs, satellite phones and cell phones. Minimum of 2 people for each tour. In Business: 10 or more years Operates: Year Round SOUTHERN BAJA Todos Santos Eco Adventures Region: All of Southern Baja Type: Variety of Land and Water Activities Contact: (619) 446-6827, +52 (612) 145-0780, TSEcoAdventures@ hotmail.com, www.tosea.net About: Pet the whales, play with sea lions, surf the waves, gallop the
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
beach, climb the waterfalls, stroll the cliffs, trek the mountains, fish the seas, make great margaritas, toast the stars . . . and explore the Beauty of Baja! In Business: 5–10 years Operates: Winter, Spring, Fall Loreto Sea and Land Eco Tours Region: All of Southern Baja Type: Variety of Land and Water Activities Contact: (613) 114-7294, Kumade4@hotmail.com, Loretoseaandland.com About: Specializes in guided tours that are customized to the client's desires. Both ocean and land adventures to satisfy all Baja visitors. Special multi-activity tours can combine cave painting, petroglyph, Conception Bay snorkeling, and much more. In Business: 1–3 years Operates: Year Round Eduardo's Tours & Ground Transfers Region: All of Southern Baja Type: Variety of Land and Water Activities Contact: (612) 166-1657, eduardostours@hotmail.com, www. eduardostours.com About: Provide tours and activities such as diving, snorkeling, kayaking, beach tours, snorkeling with the whale shark, fishing, and other water activities and land tours. In Business: 3–5 years Operates: Year Round
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ENSENADA Baja Wine Country Tours Region: Ensenada, BC Type: Wine Tours Contact: U.S. (619) 300-4976, MX (646) 118-9801, sbdryden@hotmail. com, bajawineandtours.com About: Your guide, Steve Dryden, is a wine, food and travel writer living in Mexico's premier wine country where he guides individual and small group wine tours. You will usually visit 4–5 wineries and enjoy lunch during an 8-hour wine tour. In Business: 5–10 years Operates: Year Round Baja Vino Tours Region: Ensenada, BC Type: Wine Tours Contact: U.S. (619) 227-8579, info@bajavinotours.com, www. bajavinotours.com About: Specializes in Guadalupe Valley wine tours. Led by a winemaker, their tours take you inside the wineries to meet the people behind the wines. They currently only run private VIP charters for groups of 20 or more. Customized tours available from San Diego, Tijuana, Ensenada or Los Angeles. In Business: 5–10 years Operates: Winter, Spring, Fall SAN FELIPE Discovering-Baja Tours Region: San Felipe, BC
Type: Land Activities Contact: (686) 222-4639, (686) 1257807, info@discovering-baja.com, www.discovering-baja.com About: ATV rentals and off-road tours. In Business: 1–3 years Operates: Year Round SAN IGNACIO Pachico’s Eco Tours Region: San Ignacio, BCS Type: Whale Watching Contact: Jesus Mayoral, pachicosecotours@hotmail.com About: A unique whale and wildlife watching organization that is run by the Mayoral family, the true pioneers of whale watching in Baja! A legend in whale watching, Pachico started running whale trips in the mid/early ‘70s, after his first friendly encounter in 1972. In Business: 30+ years Operates: Winter, Spring MULEGÉ Ed's World Region: Mulegé, BCS Type: Variety of Water Activites Contact: U.S. (218) 257-4433, edsworldmulege@yahoo.com, slkaysmulege@gmail.com About: Overnight Kayaking to an island and sleep in a outfitted cave, view the luminescent waters and fish below you. Kayak under the stars. In Business: 1–3 years Operating: Year Round
{Business profile Profile}
California Baja Rent-A-Car The Only Way To Go Mexico People often asked me, “Is there a place where I can rent a car in the U.S. and drive to Baja?” The answer is yes. Or, I always hear, “I really don’t want to take my car to Mexico.” Usually it’s from people who have never been to Mexico or any farther than a border town. Solution: Just rent one from California Baja Rent-A-Car in San Diego, drive the Baja and see what you’re missing! California Baja Rent-A-Car lets you rent a vehicle that you can drive all the way to Cabo San Lucas . . . actually all the way into the mainland to the Guatemala border! There is even an option where you can leave the car in Cabo and fly out. They are located 20 minutes from the San Diego airport in Spring Valley, CA. Before you begin, you must be at least 21 years of age to rent a vehicle. Driving on Mexico’s Highway 1 or 5 is no different than driving a highway in the USA. Highway 1 is the bi-peninsula toll road that’s very smooth with spectacular views of the coastline along the Pacific. It’s a highly recommend trip down the Pacific coast even if it’s only as far as Ensenada . . . or passing along through to Mexico 3 to connect to Mexicali-San Felipe Highway 5. The stretch of Highway 1 runs along
the Pacific coast; the sheer cliffs give you the feeling of being in an aircraft overlooking the beach. This highway eventually leads you all the way to Cabo San Lucas while crossing over to the east coast at Santa Rosalia. The trip can take several days . . . or as many as you want so not to miss one exciting thing along the coast. It really is spectacular. Some prefer a more challenging road trip and can cross over to the east coast of Baja at the north end from Tijuana or through Ensenada, travel through San Felipe then begin your excursion south. Currently this route is paved several miles past Puertecitos and then turns into a dirt road. A 4X4 vehicle with high ground clearance (and a spare tire or two) is recommended for this route. At California Baja Rent-A-Car, www.cabaja. com, most any size vehicle can be rented for your Baja excursion. There is a large variety of cars, 7- to 15-passenger vans, 4X4 Jeep Wranglers, Excursions, Suburban and midsize 4X4 Explorers and 4-Runners. If you want to haul some gear, they have pickup trucks, 4X4 crew cabs and utility trailers as well as tow packages. The rates can range from $49 to $159 daily plus Mexican insurance that is based on the
vehicle’s value, which starts at around $20 per day. According to owner Henk Tysma, passenger vans are very popular in Baja, especially with church groups. A total of 15 people (including the driver) can ride in one vehicle. Four-wheel drive SUVs, Suburbans and Excursions are also very popular. California Baja Rent-A-Car offers many hightech goodies such as satellite radios, satellite phones and you can rent THE SPOT, a personal locator device that transmits a signal to a satellite. With this device your family, friends or coworkers can track your travel by going online. You can use one on yourself and keep one in the car. It also has a distress button that will signal coast guard and government agencies in case of an emergency. Henk has been in business for 20 years and his company has been used by politicians, news and movie crews, and dignitaries from around the world. He also had the first car dealership in Cabo San Lucas 25 years ago. From
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his location in Spring Valley, you can purchase toy haulers, quads, Rhinos, RV’s and most any motorized toy you would want, as well as cars and trucks. So, if you want to see the gray whales converge on Baja, see the world’s best off-road racing, or just get away from the cold and enjoy the warm beaches, feel free to get started and rent your favorite cruiser for a road trip south of the border. California Baja Rent-A-Car is located at 9245 Jamacha Blvd., Spring Valley, California 91977. Call.1-888-470-RENT, or email info@cabaja. com, and Heidi or Kelly will assist you with renting a vehicle that best suits your needs. If you’re flying into San Diego during the week, arrangements can be made for transportation to their location.
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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{Business & Money} THE BAJA BIG LIST: Tours and Guided Travel (cont.) LORETO Baja Kayak Adventure Tours Ltd. Region: Loreto, BCS Type: Kayaking Contact: (613) 100-7102, info@ bajakayakadventures.com, www.bajakayakadventures.com About: 3- to 10-day kayak tours out of Loreto. Tours are based in the National Marine Park and include Isla Coronado, Isla Danzante and Isla Carmen; as well as a 10day route from Loreto to La Paz. In Business: 3–5 years Operates: Winter, Spring, Fall Paddling South Kayak Tours Region: Loreto, BCS Type: Variety of Land and Water Activities Contact: (800) 398-6200, (613) 135-1230, info@tourbaja.com, www.TourBaja.com About: Sea kayak operator and unique cultural riding tours, and World Heritage Rock Art trips. Full service tour packages, meals fresh with local flavor, all skill levels welcome, professionally trained local guides. Customized group trips available.
In Business: 10 or more years Operates: Year Round
LOS CABOS
LA PAZ Palapas Ventana Region: La Paz, BCS Type: Variety of Land and Water Activities Contact: U.S. (310) 594-DIVE, MX (612) 114-0198, contact@ palapasventana.com, www. palapasventana.com About: Off-the-beaten-path adventure vacations with comfort. Scuba, spearfish, fish, kiteboard, kayak, stand-up paddle surf, or just relax and enjoy their friendly laid back town! In Business: 5–10 years Operates: Year Round
Cabo Sailing Ocean Adventures Region: Cabo San Lucas, BCS Type: Water Activities Contact: U.S. (800) 2091669, MX (624) 143-8485, info@cabosailing.com, www. cabosailing.com About: Premium Sailing Charters in Cabo San Lucas. Snorkeling, sunset cruise, whale watching, great music, delicious food and premium open bar are at your service. Professional sailing crew will set the right environment for your special occasion. Daily private and public cruises. In Business: 5–10 years Operates: Year Round
Wild Canyon Region: Cabo San Lucas, BCS Contact: (624) 144-4433, info@ wildcanyon.com, mx www. wildcanyon.com.mx Type: Zip Lines About: Soar across canyons and zoom by rock faces . . . flying like a bird over the oasis below. From a 164-foot long, 33-foot high training line, to their 2,673-foot long (almost 9 football fields!), 295-foot high mega zip line, they have something that will get your heart pumping: In Business: 3–5 years Operates: Year Round
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26
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
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{Dining Guide guide}
Cafe Orleans: A Real American-Style Diner in Ensenada by Steve Dryden
American home-style cooking with an emphasis on breakfast dishes is the theme for the Orleans Cafe located in downtown Ensenada at Blvd. Costero No. 1370. You’ll find it located next to the Chevrolet dealership and directly across from the Velmar Hospital towards the harbor. Owners Jerry and Beatriz Shelby moved to Ensenada armed with a long history of operating food venues at the San Diego Airport. Over the years Jerry collected and stored various elements of restaurant materials with future visions of opening an American-style diner in Baja California. If you look around his cafe, you’ll find pieces of Rubio’s, Arriba Margarita Bar, Chili’s, Pizza Hut and left over paint from StarBucks. Today, they’ve built a comfortable venue that is home to retired Americans, tourists and locals who crave such American classic dishes as chicken fried steak, gumbo of the day, shrimp
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salad, pan fried cat fish, center cut pork chops, turkey breast open-faced sandwiches and more. The specialty here is large portions of breakfast selections. Their 50 peso Cafe Orleans Special is two eggs, two pancakes, two sausage and two bacon, strips. In addition, they offer eggs to order, omelets, New York steak and eggs, carne asada and eggs, S.O.S., corn beef hash, poached eggs, fresh fruit with cottage cheese, hot cakes or waffles, French toast and oatmeal. Jerry grinds fresh coffee beans each morning and provides WiFi communication for customers with laptops. Cafe Orleans is open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Starting in April they’ll be featuring Friday and Saturday night themed dinner specials, including lobster, abalone, prime rib and other hard to find favorites. For more information, call them at (646) 178-3286.
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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27
{Dining Guide guide}
La Cascada Bar & Restaurant in Loreto by Stockton Hill
The fish served both in the mango and cilantro sauces were dorado, also known as mahi mahi, caught locally the same day. For those of you that want to catch your own fish, La Cascada will cook your catch to order for only $5 per person. In addition, they offer a full bar with 16 different varieties of tequila and 10 different varieties of scotch. La Cascada serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and is located in the historic district on the corner, a block from the Mission of Loreto, at Salvatierra and Zapata. (613) 135-0550.
Photo by John Pack
From the comfortable and relaxing covered patio, which looks up and down the cobblestone streets of the historic district, to the large palm tree growing up through the patio ceiling, La Cascada Bar & Restaurant offers a fabulous ambience and some of the best Mexican food in Loreto. After traveling to Loreto from Costa Mesa for years, owner Lucia Alaniz said her children told her they would rather live in Loreto. So, 11 years ago Lucia decided that Loreto was a safer and better life for her kids, and moved permanently. For the last five years, the Alaniz family has been making their guests feel right at home. Often you’ll find the son Ariel waiting tables, and Lucia behind the counter or helping in the kitchen. On our first visit to La Cascada, my wife and I had a craving for pescado (fish), so we decided to order the Pescado de Salsa de Mango (fish in mango sauce) and the Pescado al Cilantro (fish in a creamy cilantro sauce). Both dishes were beautifully presented and grilled to perfection. This was my first taste of fish in a cilantro sauce, but could possibly be one of my favorites. The cilantro flavor was light and accented the fish perfectly.
The Pavilion Restaurant The Pavilion Restaurant
20% OFF 20% OFF
Any lunch breakfast, lunch or dinner Any breakfast, or dinner expires 28-Feb-2010
expires 28-Feb-2010
Excluding shrimp or scallops dishes. Excluding shrimp or scallops dishes. Not valid with any other special. Items Not valid with any other special. Items only discounted off regular price. only discounted off regular price.
cesar.quirarte@doradoranch.com.mx cesar.quirarte@doradoranch.com.mx
San Felipe BC Mexico San Felipe BC Mexico
Now in TWO LOCATIONS
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April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
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{Dining Guide guide}
White Fish with Cilantro Cream Sauce
White fish is easy to prepare and serve with tasty green onion and cilantro cream sauce. Ingredients: • 1 1/2 pounds white fish fillets • 1 tablespoon melted butter • Salt and pepper • 1 tablespoon olive oil • 1 clove garlic, finely minced • 2 green onions, thinly sliced • 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro • 1 cup heavy cream • 1 tablespoon lime juice • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Preparation: Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium heat; sauté the garlic and onion for 1 to 2 minutes. Add cream and bring to a simmer. Simmer for about 3 to 4 minutes to reduce slightly. Stir in cilantro, lime juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for about 1 minute longer. Set aside or refrigerate until nearly serving time. Heat oven to 375°. Line a baking pan with foil; spray with nonstick cooking spray. Brush fillets lightly with butter; arrange in the baking pan. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Bake the fish for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through. Warm the sauce up and drizzle a little over each serving of fish. Serves 4.
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Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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29
Hallelujah!
{Lodging Guide}
There is an RV Park in La Paz by John Pack
As an RV'er a stop in La Paz is almost a necessity, whether traveling north or south it's the ideal place to stock up. La Paz has some of Baja's best shopping, great mechanics, restaurants, movie theater and much more. You can find just about anything you need in La Paz, except an RV park. There used to be several nice parks, but as of 2009, the two remaining RV parks in La Paz closed. Fortunately, there still is an option for RV'ers just north of town in El Centenario at Campestre Maranatha, a 7-acre camp located 11 km north of La Paz, on the west side of the highway. Camp Maranatha is the only choice if you plan to stay in La Paz. Campestre Maranatha is very well maintained, clean with nice bathrooms, hot showers and laundry facilities. The grounds are meticulously groomed by very friendly staff. It also has a park area, pool, various park equipment for kids, picnic facilities and lots of shade trees. However, it is close to the main highway, so depending on your site, traffic noise can be disturbing. They already had about 20 full hookup sites, and recently opened an additional 24 full hookup sites to accommodate the extra travelers. In addition to being an RV park, Campestre Maranatha is a Christian campground used by local churches, schools and families for their different activities, and is also the base for Maranatha Ministries in Mexico. The original founder of the park was a missionary and used to fly to La Paz to do his missionary work. He owned his own airstrip, which once was where the RV park and campestre is now.
“Maranatha” means “Our Lord has come.” Churches use the campground for youth and children’s camps, adult seminars, spiritual retreats and fellowship meetings. Their swimming pool is not only used for fun and games but also as a place where hundreds are baptized each year. Both public and private schools are welcome to use the camp. For example, students enjoy coming to celebrate Dia del Niño, or Children’s Day. Sixth grade classes find it an exciting place to celebrate their graduation from primary school. Boy Scouts even hold meetings at Campestre Maranatha. You can expect to have activity at the camp nearly every weekend. Although it is outside of town, the local bus stops directly in front of the coffee shop “Exquisito” on the corner, and the ride to town is only 8 pesos. It comes by every 30 minutes. It's the El Centenerio bus, which makes it easy to identify, so you don't get on the wrong bus when returning. “Exquisito” also offers Internet Wifi and FREE phone calls to the USA
or Canada with any purchase. Campestre Maranatha is $20 per night. The camp administrators are Cindy and José Nuñez, and they can be reached by email at bajasis@ hotmail.com. GPS Location:
Beach-side Vacation condo or house rentals
Latitude: 24° 5'52.62”N Longitude: 110°23'13.13”W
Vacation Rentals & Property Management 613-135-2505
www.rentalsloreto.com
Walking distances to North Beach for all you Wind & Kite Surfers
www.fisheastcape.com Los Barriles BCS Mexico
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April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
www.stayinloreto.com C ontaCt L ynn H amman 011-52-613-135-0791
lynnhamman@yahoo.com
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{Health & Beauty}
Mutated Form of H1N1 Found in Mexico by Karri Moser
The Mexican Health Secretary Jose Angel Cordova Villalobos publically announced Mexico’s first case of a mutated form of H1N1 in the country. This particular mutation has been found in a 10-month-old girl. This mutation is showing resistance to treatment, including resistance to Tamiflu. This flu treatment is the most widely used and effective weapon against the H1N1 flu. However, even with the mutated form, the child is steadily recovering. The 10-month-old child with the mutated strain was admitted to the hospital on January 4, 2010. She came from Ecatepec. At the time of hospitalization, she was diagnosed with respiratory problems, bronchitis and malnutrition. After initial treatment, she improved enough to be released and sent home from the Mexico City area hospital. Ten days later she was once again hospitalized and diagnosed with aggravated pneumonia. She then tested positive for the mutated H1N1 flu. While she continues to recover, others with H1N1 are being tested to see if the mutation has spread further. So far, out of 150,000 tested, only 423
people are showing signs of having the mutated form of H1N1. The discovery of this mutation shows the virus can mutate at any time and without warning, just like any other virus. Because of this, the Mexican Health Secretary is stressing the importance of vaccination. Anyone who is in a risk category should get vaccinated. He stresses taking advantage of the vaccine supply is the best way to prevent another wave of infection or any more preventable deaths from H1N1. So far, out of 71,000 cases, over 1,000 people have died of the H1N1 flu in Mexico since the flu’s onset in April 2009. Worldwide, the deaths have totaled 16,000. Vaccines are still readily available for the public. Health officials also stress that simply getting vaccinated is still the most proactive approach for the public to protect themselves from H1N1. As with any illness or flu, washing your hands, covering coughs and taking common sense precautions can go a long way in keeping it from spreading. If you get sick with flu-like symptoms, you
should stay home and avoid contact with other people except to get medical care. Most people with H1N1 have had mild illness and have not needed medical care or antiviral drugs, and the same is true of this seasonal flu. However, some people are more likely to get flu complications and they should talk to their doctor about whether they need to be examined if they get flu symptoms. People at high risk for developing flu-related complications are: children younger than five (especially children younger than two), adults 65 years and older, and pregnant women. It is also possible for other people to develop severe illness from the flu, so anyone who is concerned about their illness should consult with their doctor.
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Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
YOUR VISION SOLUTION
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Fishing} {fishign
GOT PARGO? by Tom Gatch
Southern Californian, Charlie McGee, shows off a sweet pargo perro (dog snapper) that he caught near Isla Cerralvo, just off the coast of La Paz. Photo courtesy of Tailhunter International
SAN FELIPE BAJA
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32
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
Springtime marks the beginning of a transitional phase in fishing conditions around the Baja peninsula, particularly in Baja California Sur. As the water begins to warm, anglers are occasionally teased by summer-like flurries of surface game-fish activity that may be abruptly disrupted by windy periods, green water and rough offshore seas. These are the times when it can be more productive to forget about the highly touted gamesters like striped marlin, yellowfin tuna or dorado and focus on the inshore zone and one of the most notorious tackle-busters in all of Baja . . . the pargo. Pargo are generally caught from Bahia Tortugas on the Pacific side to Bahia de Los Angeles in the Sea of Cortez. In southern Baja, the name “pargo”
can be used interchangeably to refer to different fish species, much as Californians might allude to certain members of the Sebastes family as being “red snapper.” In Baja Sur, pargo are members of the true snapper family, Lutjanidae. The most prominent species are mullet snapper (Lutjanus aratus), known as “pargo lisa”; dog snapper (Lutjanus novemfasciatus), called “pargo perro”; the original red snapper (Lutjanus campechanus), affectionately referred to by diners as “huachinango”; and one of the most targeted members of the group, the barred pargo (Hoplopagrus gunther), known to Baja pangeros as “pargo coconaco.” These fish are generally found close to islands, reefs and rocky areas, and can range in size from 5 to well over 40 pounds. Most species of pargo are considered prime table fare, but all of them tend to have the infuriating habit of grabbing a lure or bait and running straight into any nearby structure that happens to be handy, at which point in time they are nearly impossible to extricate. A standard dropper loop baited with live or dead sardines is an extremely effective pargo setup, but I personally prefer using a whole squid on a modified trap-rig. If you’ve never made one of these before, tie a large treble hook to the end of a 25- to 35-pound test fluorocarbon leader about 25 to 30 inches long. A single, 2/0 live bait hook is then tied up the leader that corresponds with the size of squid being used. The tag end of the leader is tied to the middle eye of a 3-way swivel. Secure an 8-inch leader on the bottom eye, and attach a 4- to 6-ounce torpedo sinker to the terminal end. Hook one prong from the treble hook between the squid’s eyes, and then pin the single live bait hook through its nose. As the squid is slowly lowered through the water column, it tends to flow along with the current and almost look as if it's swimming. Once you reach the bottom, give your reel a couple of cranks and hang on! If you plan to charter a panga to fish specifically for pargo at one of the major resort hubs like Cabo San Lucas or San Jose del Cabo, remember that most panga operations in these areas earn new and repeat business by the level of success that they display in catching species like marlin, tuna, sailfish and dorado. Therefore, don’t be surprised if your captain looks a bit disappointed when he finds out that you want to focus your angling efforts on these bottom dwellers. I’ll never forget a trip that I took to a prominent East Cape resort well over a decade ago. When the skipper first asked me what I wanted to fish for his smile dropped noticeably when I chirped, “Yo quiero pargo!” He then looked at my tackle set up and raised his eyebrows when he noticed my block of squid and large treble hooks. On the way to the fishing grounds just north of the Cabo Pulmo reserve, he couldn't help but speak up. “Por favor, señor! Your hooks are much too big!” He continued to suggest that I change my rig, but I simply remained silent. Less than 30 seconds from the moment I cranked my squid up from the bottom on our
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first stop, I got slammed by a spirited 13-pound amberjack. Not exactly what I was looking for, but a nice fish and good fight all the same. Other boats that swarmed in on us sat soaking their untouched sardines as I continued to pull in a 6-pound red snapper and then a chunky barred pargo on my squid rig. Needless to say, my skipper made no further observations regarding my tackle or techniques for the remainder of the trip. If at all possible, it’s a good idea to bring along at least one 5-pound block of frozen squid when you head south of the border in pursuit of pargo. These fish are not particularly picky eaters, however, and they will happily inhale just about anything from cut bait and squid to a wide variety of plugs and iron lures. They also deserve your respect, and should be fished for only with a conventional reel and line having a minimum test strength of 30 pounds. Making the unwise decision to use spinning gear when targeting these stubborn and pugnacious fish could easily end up ruining your fishing trip. There are, of course, other good techniques for catching pargo. Dennis Spike, a well-known kayak fishing expert, is an experienced light tackle angler who has perfected the art of casting a live, nose-hooked sardine directly over submerged rocks and reefs, then waiting with the reel in gear for the slightest nibble so that he can immediately jerk the hooked fish away from the structure before it is has a chance to wedge itself in. Another southern California kayak angler, Jon Schwartz, enjoys fishing for pargo from his yak using medium-sized mullet as bait. He often buys them in an Asian fish market near his home and brings them down with him when he visits the East Cape’s Rancho Leonaro Resort. Schwartz is particularly fond of this particular area for pursuing big pargo and suggests, “The best place to fish is to paddle straight out to where the charter cruisers are anchored and then start paddling south. If you bring a fish finder, you will see that there is a huge drop off just past the boats that goes from about 40 feet deep to nearly three times that depth within about 20 yards, and there are fish lined up all along the ledge.” No matter how you plan to stalk them, big pargo are a true prize unto themselves, as well as being a wonderful alternative target for spring anglers who may have been kept inshore by unpredictable weather conditions. Release the small ones but, whatever you do, be sure to take advantage of a gourmet dining opportunity by filleting out a 15- to 20-pounder and having a member of the hotel staff grill it for you over mesquite while bathing it in melted butter and crushed garlic. By the time the first delightful, charbroiled chunk hits your palate, you might even forget all about that elusive striped marlin, which was your originally intended quarry. Tom Gatch is the author of Hooked on Baja and has built a solid reputation as one of the foremost authors and photographers focusing on outdoor and recreational topics in Southern California and the Baja California peninsula.
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PMS NMM BMI
523 -24
150 75
4
5
1800 78
2024 87
6
7
2 37
1133 1640 109 37
2305 169
8
613 -14
1232 1708 93 53
2343 157
9
713 -2
150 75
1608 79
130 126
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1002 13
1826 88
306 116
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1119 11
1845 2319 97 80
13
449 114
1211 8
1907 105
023 66
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558 117
1249 6
1927 114
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104 51
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5 30
649 122
1319 6
1945 122
137 36
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729 125
1344 8
150 75
1406 11
2021 141
238 9
18
838 125
1428 16
2041 150
19
309 -2
912 122
1449 22
2102 159
341 -11
20
946 116
21
1511 29
2127 165
416 -16
1024 109
1534 36
2154 168
17
22
11 20
454 -18
1107 1558 99 44
2225 168
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538 -16
1158 1625 89 53
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150 75
1307 1657 81 62
2347 154
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736 -4
14451747 79 72
050 142
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857 -0
16331940 86 80
217 131
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1015 -2
1729 2207 99 74
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355 127
1116 -5
1806 115
2335 55
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5 19
519 129
1204 -6
1839 132
035 31
626 132
1245 -4
1321 2
1943 165
214 -12
815 131
1356 11
2016 177
905 126
259 -28
150
145 82
75 0
1430 22
2050 184
343 -36
955 118
1504 33
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428 -37
2159 181
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
105 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
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512 -32
1136 1611 101 54
100 50
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3 37
100 50
2323 85
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1034 11
2259 73
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1227 7
2123 67
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18
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850 75
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1450 5
2100 85
325 1
922 76
1508 9
2111 92
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1535 37
353 -8
1143 1625 57 29
2238 107
8
454 56
100 50
2305 102
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741 -7
249 55
1317 3
2048 69
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3
1528 13
650 61
1349 1
2046 71
400
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200
6
7
2 37
918 -68
1555 465
2159 20
8
346 371
948 -29
1637 408
2234 79
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416 314
18
1020 16
1726 347
400
1054 64
1830 292
014 183
11
516 205
1136 113
2102 263
12
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529 914 157 175
1557 132
2258 289
13
550 116
1116 214
1700 102
2342 317
14
607 81
1153 258
1737 71
10
010 342
15
5 30
623 50
1218 303
1808 44
029 362
16
640 21
1239 347
400
657 -5
1301 389
1905 6
105 394
18
716 -29
1326 424
1932 -3
125 406
19
200
736 -47
1351 449
1959 -3
145 413
20
756 -60
21
1418 462
2026 4
206 412
818 -64
1445 462
2053 19
229 402
22
11 20
1515 450
2122 42
254 383
23
914 -48
1551 426
2125 99
906 -3
424 -13
1029 70
1548 19
2141 105
400
952 -26
1638 392
2240 110
25
404 310
1038 8
1742 354
2343 145
26
200
504 263
1142 48
1914 329
154 156
27
729 236
1345 76
2101 338
28
359 109
932 275
1550 52
2214 371
456 -17
1104 1603 63 24
2159 108
22
1046 -2
2015 63
29
5 19
1042 340
1652 15
2305 407
534 -7
1136 406
1744 -15
1222 462
1830 -33
028 452
646 -76
1304 501
1915 -39
106 454
400
408
200
204
0
718 -86
1344 520
1955 -33
143 443
750 -82
1422 518
Hora del Meridiano:
0
2034 -14
218 420
30 1501 498
2111 14
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
105 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
821 -68
BMI
252 387
853 -45
1541 463
1413 8
2027 96
310 -14
917 74
1202 -3
PMS
120
NMM
60
BMI
0
1442 16
2048 104
350 -24
1003 1505 70 24
2107 109
429 -28
1044 1525 64 31
2126 112
Hora del Meridiano:
90 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
505 -27
1940 68
cms
0
Dom 18
6
0
6
Lun
18
0
6
Mar
18
0
6
Mie
Dom 18
6
0
Lun
6
0
6
1
80 40
Jue
18
0
120
NMM
60
BMI
0
4
PMS
120
NMM
60
BMI
0
PMS
120
NMM
60
BMI
0
PMS
120
NMM
60
BMI
0
12501603 43 38
818 20
PMS
BMI
80 40
4
5
6
7
3 37
8
2200 81
606 -20
2213 81
9
635 39
655 -13
2229 78
10
PMS NMM
0
BMI 805 -6
80 40
2245 72
11
1006 -2
2245 65
12
1214 -4
2151 58
13
1253 -5
2118 54
14
400 37
1318 -5
2105 52
15
6 30
238 30
734 43
16
1341 -3
2059 53
232 19
818 46
1401 0
PMS NMM
0
BMI 247 9
80 40
854 48
1417 5
2051 60
18
308 -1
929 49
1432 10
2052 66
19
332 -11
1005 1445 47 16
2059 72
20
400 -18
1044 1456 45 22
21
2110 78
430 -24
1127 1501 40 27
2123 83
22
12 20
504 -26
1223 34
2137 86
23
542 -24
2154 87
24
PMS NMM
0
40
2215 85
25
739 -14
2237 79
26
937 -10
2253 70
27
1109 -10
2107 59
28
1204 -9
2012 58
29
6 19
325 616 38 40
1242 -6
2006 60
140 22
743 44
30
0
2012 65
NMM BMI
210 4
40
1314 1
PMS
0
80
530 -17
1141 1614 54 30
2219 109
605 -15
1226 1610 45 35
2241 107
24
PMS
102 41
608 64
1256 -2
1948 77
146 20
729 70
1338 1
2006 87
PMS
1127 1543 57 35
2147 112
540 -23
1207 1555 51 37
2209 109
21 28 6 14
18
0
6
Mie
18
0
6
1
Jue
18
0
(22 53 N, 109 55 W) 6
2
Vie
18
0
6
3
Sab
18
PMS
7
1045 84
1605 12
2227 125
8
516 -21
1120 1620 70 22
2253 116
9
556 -7
1158 1625 56 31
2319 104
10
PMS
NMM 1123 18
2044 003 423 65 61 68
1218 11
1936 69
14
038 46
604 75
1249 5
1928 77
105 31
15
6 30
651 83
1313 1
1936 85
130 17
16
726 90
1336 -2
1950 94
17
PMS
NMM BMI
757 95
1358 -3
2006 103
18
222 -9
826 97
1419 -2
2025 112
19
249 -19
855 98
1439 0
2045 120
20
317 -27
925 95
21
1458 4
2107 125
347 -31
955 90
1518 9
2130 128
22
12 20
419 -30
1028 81
1538 16
2156 127
23
452 -24
1102 1557 71 23
846 48
1343 10
2021 72
247 -12
945 1407 49 20
2029 78
326 -24
88 44 0
1043 1426 47 31
2039 84
404 -31
11461431 44 38
2051 89
Hora del Meridiano:
90 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
441 -32
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
2105 91
519 -29
2122 91
21 28 6 14 http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González
2223 122
24
PMS
NMM BMI
1143 1616 59 31
25
2253 113
620 -3
1243 1624 49 40
2332 101
26
738 8
041 87
27
959 11
18292132 62 60
28
314 77
1121 6
1820 75
2340 42
29
6 19
525 83
1207 1
1840 90
032 20
631 92
1244 -2
1905 105
30
PMS
NMM BMI
721 98
1317 -1
1932 119
157 -19
806 100
1349 3
2001 130
236 -31
848 98
122 61 0
1419 8
2031 137
314 -37
928 93
1447 15
2101 138
Hora del Meridiano:
90 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
351 -36
1006 1514 86 22
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
2131 135
428 -30
1043 1538 78 29
2201 129
21 28 6 14
Ensenada BC – May 22–23: 31st Annual La Misión Fiesta. Contact Mario Reyes, (664) 682-1697 Bahía de los Angeles BC – May 22–23: 17th Annual Guillermo’s Yellowtail Sportfishing Tournament in Bahía de los Angeles. Contact Guillermo Satellite, (200) 124-9104 Loreto BCS – Jun 24–26: 2nd Annual Tripui Fishing Tournament www.tripuisportsfishing.com or contact Bud Dees, bajabud1947@yahoo.com Loreto BCS – Jul 15–18: Fishing For The Mission contact Jaime at (613) 135-2138
BMI 630 -20
80
PMS
2055 55
17
1453 31
17
Fishing Calendar NMM
1246 27
Mar
13
18
0 525 -24
2052 79
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González
Sab
3
6
029 76
12
(26 01 N, 111 22 W)
2
1446 26
0
3 37
0
6
1432 3
Cabo San Lucas, B.C.S.
Oceanografía Física
6
2347 90
11
115 -1
0
817 71
BMI
531 -15
2147 49
18
18
5
60
Vie
239 21
BMI
120
6
2048 74
NMM
Loreto, B.C.S.
18
PMS
30
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
439 -32
PMS
21 28 6 14
CICESE
Oceanografía Física
2314 95
NMM
CICESE
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González
ABRIL 2010
1413 1
23
29
6 19
54
2349 435
0 612 -50
1312 36
NMM
300 64
28
0
156 3
24
454 48
740 66
16
2256 61
12 20
012 79
27
107
0
2156 73
0 325 351
705 -1
BMI 828 74
645 8
17 843 -60
2256 103
0
1837 22
0 047 379
1219 1617 46 33
NMM
2313 135
0 444 258
NMM
10
220 32
15
21
ABRIL 2010
0 315 425
PMS
1529 35
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González
Sab
6
621 -10
9
206 44
6 30
955 74
2334 93
26
228 1
(31 01 N, 114 49 W) Vie
18
BMI 1349 38
0
6
Sab
6
3
NMM
14
20
50
0
0
0
San Felipe, B.C.
18
18
BMI 301 10
cms
cms
0
Vie
0
100
CICESE
Oceanografía Física
6
2
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González
ABRIL 2010
(24 10 N, 110 21 W)
0
BMI
2235 171
21 28 6 14
Jue
0
646 -12
BMI 723 133
Oceanografía Física
Mar
BMI
1911 149
0 127 8
6
0
2301 163
0 630 -10
0
50
811 7
BMI 805 126
18
100
2003 132
0 208 22
Lun
6
544 -16
BMI 830 9
0
1352 1736 81 66
0 028 141
Dom 18
6
T ide C a l endars
0
0
La Paz, B.C.S.
CICESE
ABRIL 2010 cms
cms
Dom 18
6
Ensenada, B.C.
CICESE
ABRIL 2010 0
The East Cape – April TBA: Annual Halibut Derby. The annual Halibut Derby. (310) 827-4855 Los Cabos BCS – May TBA: Rolex Invitational IGFA Offshore Championship Release Tournament. (866) LOS-CABOS Cabo San Lucas BCS – May TBA: Yellowtail Shootout. A day trip from Cabo San Lucas. (818) 762-5873
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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{Arts}
Digital Designs by Robin
One-of-a-Kind Paintings—Unique in Color, Subject and Visual Texture Robin Waters has always had a passion for art, and when she found a medium that could transcend traditional painting, she became a digital artist. As a little girl, a new box of crayons was always her favorite gift; growing up, she never missed an arts or crafts class. She studied various mediums at the Oregon School of Arts, but specialized in fiber/fabric and designing hand-painted wearable art. Always wanting to learn new things, she took continuing classes in oil, water color and acrylics. Robin's fascination with art has always been an integral part of her business life. She owned a Stained Glass Overlay store in Palm Desert, California, where her glass pieces were often featured in the Desert Home Show. As a member of American Society of Interior Designers, Robin collaborated with many of the designers to build expansive custom glass creations for the high-end residential and commercial markets. In 2002, Robin came to San Felipe and immediately fell in love with the mystical meeting of the desert and the sea. She purchased property on the first day. Subsequently built a home, and notes that “It gives me the feeling of being on vacation every day.” She points out, “I’ve found the color spectrum brighter as I’ve moved south, and the richness of it on nature’s art; the seashells, the fish, the sunrises, makes rendering it on canvas or film irresistible.” Robin is a digital painter, an artist with a magical canvas that can change like a kaleidoscope. Every
image she creates is unique in color, subject and visual texture. “The digital medium provides limitless freedom of creation and you never stop learning, that’s probably the joy and fascination for me.” So, she will take a photograph, crop and enhance, and craft a new art piece. Portraits are her favorite. “I adore taking a photograph and creating an heirloom portrait,” says Robin, describing her techniques, “Portraits are more than a likeness, they are a wonderful visual memory of you, your pet, a favorite scene or somebody you love.” When Robin is not at the computer, she is having fun painting and designing tiles, glassware, wall décor and things for her home. Gardening, trying new recipes or working on community activities with the San Felipe Lions Club round out her leisure time. When asked about the art community, she replied that she would like San Felipe to become known for art as well as fishing, and to follow the lead of Todos Santos, Ajijic or San Miguel de Allende and emerge as the “Art Colony” only two hours south of the border. Robin has recently become affiliated with the Art Expo—An artists' Co-op in San Felipe. They have monthly art shows from October through February
and end the season at the Blues and Arts Fiesta. Her work is currently displayed at The LightHouse Restaurant. You can contact Robin by phone at 577-0773 or (686) 115-0526, by email at DigitalDesignsbyRobin@gmail.com, or visit www. DigitalDesignsbyRobin.com.
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April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
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{Home & Real estate Estate}
Mexico Cracking Down on Capital Gains Tax by Kevin Brass, International Property Journal
Changes in Mexico’s tax laws have made it more difficult for foreigners selling real estate to avoid the country’s steep capital gains tax, which can run as high as 30 percent. Under the new rules, homeowners must prove the house has been their primary residence for
at least five years to qualify for an exemption to the tax on the sale of property. In the past the residency requirement was typically one or two years, and, to put it tactfully, foreign sellers often could find a way to qualify for the exemption. There is “absolutely” a new focus on enforcement in Mexico, says Linda Neil of the Settlement Company, a Baja California-based firm. “Foreign buyers who buy for rental or for vacations should not expect to receive the residence exemption,” Neil said. The residency exemption to the tax has been changed frequently in recent years, but the law has never been this strict, according to Raoul Rodriguez-Walters, managing director of Mexico Advisor, which has offices in Portland, Oregon, and San Miguel de Allende. (For the record, it’s not technically a capital gains tax, but simply a tax on the income from the sale.) Some aspects of the law are still confusing and open to interpretation, Rodriguez-Walters says. For example, it’s unclear from the wording of the new law whether sales of less than $500,000 are exempt from the tax, as they have been in the past. (That confusion can be found in this recent article on the new tax.) The issues are further complicated by a longrunning debate about how the tax system classifies residents and non-residents, he says. In most cases a notario publico has tremendous leeway to determine residency status, and the interpretation and application of the law varies among notarios and jurisdictions. “Some notarios are more comfortable granting exemptions to foreign nationals than others,” said Rodríguez-Walters. “It is important to find one that will provide an exemption if you feel you qualify.”
The easy residency exemption was particularly useful for developers and landlords, who could work the system to claim multiple properties, using evidence such as utility bills to verify residence. But a five-year benchmark sets a high standard. “If you can’t prove you’ve been there for five years, it’s going to be practically impossible” to avoid the tax, Rodríguez-Walters said. In some cases, the tax can be a shock to sellers. In the past, buyers were often encouraged to record a lower property value when they buy a house, only to face a large capital gains hit when they go to sell the property. “This is the reason [buyers] should definitely insist upon declaring full value paid in their deed so that when they sell they will pay an income or capital gains tax on only the profit,” Neil said. U.S. and Canadian residents can typically declare the tax they pay in Mexico on their homecountry income taxes, easing some of the hit. “Foreign buyers need to be sure they do it right, declare full value, pay taxes and get the proper documentation to prove to tax authorities in their home countries that they need a credit/deduction on their Mexican properties,” Neil said. Kevin Brass, is the editor of International Property Journal. Through booms and busts, Kevin has chronicled the international property industry for the International Herald Tribune and New York Times. His popular International Herald Tribune blog, “Raising the Roof,” was named one of the Top 20 real estate blogs in the world by NuWire Investor. A frequent speaker at industry events, Kevin’s features and analysis have appeared in a wide variety of publications, including the Los Angeles Times, San Diego Tribune, San Diego Magazine and Hispanic Business. In 2008 GlobalEdge named Kevin one of the 100 most powerful property journalists in the world. This article is reprinted with permission from Kevin Brass and the International Property Journal www.internationalpropertyjournal.com.
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
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35
{Home & Real estate Estate}
Can In-House Financing Help Trigger the Next Baja Real Estate Boom?
Changes in Mexico’s tax laws have made it more difficult for foreigners selling real estate to avoid the by Alejandra Esquivel country’s steep capital gains tax, which can run as high as 30 percent. Under the new rules, homeowners must prove the With a slow housing market trending the real house has been their primary residence for at least five estate world, and economic uncertainty glooming years to qualify for an exemption to the tax on the sale over millions, Baja real estate developers may yet of property. In the past the residency requirement was attract buyers with purchasing plans very much typically one or two years, and, to put it tactfully, forwithin their affordable grasp. eign sellers often could find a way to qualify for the The number of housing and condo developments exemption. in the Baja California coast There is “absolutely” a newincreased focus on significantly enforcement in the past few years. As a result of theCompany, boom in in Mexico, says Linda Neil of the Settlement construction and the current market conditions, a Baja California-based firm. opportunities are who arising for rental the knowledgeable “Foreign buyers buy for or for vacations investor can expect the a significant return on should notwho expect to receive residence exemption,” the investment after the market has recovered, Neil said. as The well residency as for theexemption Americantoretiree the taxconsidering has been moving tofrequently Mexico.in recent years, but the law has changed Bajabeen California been to attracting retirees never this strict,has according Raoul Rodriguezfor decades with its perfect weather, affordable Walters, managing director of Mexico Advisor, which beachfront housing and accessibility to U.S. services. In response to this, the medical infrastructure has been updated with state-ofthe-art hospitals and assisted living services have been created. Combine this with the continually increasing purchasing power of the dollar against the peso, retirees not only get a secure economic future but also a lifestyle upgrade while, at the same time, extending their income by 3 years per each 10 of retirement funds. The number of Americans living in Mexico was reported to have increased by 17 percent from 1990 to 2000. This number could very well double since the people looking to relocate to Mexico are not just baby boomers anymore. Many people in their 30s and 40s, looking for a slower pace of life, are moving to Baja and starting their own business; people who can’t afford the California real estate prices live in Baja and work in California; and some people are transferred to Baja for business.
has offices in Portland, Oregon, and San Miguel de Allende. (For the record, it’s not technically a capital gains tax, but simply a tax on the income from the sale.) Some aspects of the law are still confusing and open to interpretation, Rodriguez-Walters says. For The Baja peninsula is currently estimated to example, it’s unclear from the wording of the new law have around 250,000 American expatriates, with whether sales of less than $500,000 are exempt from approximately 12 percent of them living along the tax, as they have been in the past. (That confusion the Tijuana-Ensenada corridor. For these people can be found in this recent article on the new tax.) neither health concerns nor security issues are The issues are further complicated by a longenough debate to drive them from a place they running about howaway the tax system classifies have come call home, instead speak out residents andtonon-residents, he says.they In most cases against the negative publicity Baja has received. a notario publico has tremendous leeway to determine Considering thethe reasons why acquiring residency status, and interpretation and application Mexican real estate is an appealing option, of the law varies among notarios and jurisdictions. then why notarios is the Mexico realcomfortable estate market and “Some are more granting particularly the Baja California region, which is exemptions to foreign nationals than others,” said one of regions leading the retirement trend, faced Rodríguez-Walters. “It is important to find one that will with slow sales? The answer be simple: provide an exemption if you feel youcould qualify.” financing. slowexemption down in was the particularly economy usehas The easy The residency significantly reduced the number and type of ful for developers and landlords, who could work the loans the financial institutions are issuing. With fewer institutions providing loans, qualifying becomes more and more difficult. In response to this current situation some developers in Baja are starting to offer in-house financing, which alleviates the dependency on financial institutions. Some of the advantages of this type of loan are: no property appraisal, it identifies a financially sound seller, possibility of getting customized loan terms, and it is not a rigorous screening process, which makes it available to people with lower credit scores. Kathy Katz has been a resident of Baja California for 18 years and a reputable broker specializing in Baja California Real Estate. With years of experience she knows very well that a buyer must be careful and work closely with their realty company in figuring out who is offering the best options. These are the key things she mentions you must look for in an investment and their in-house financing options if available:
system to claim multiple properties, using evidence such as utility bills to verify residence. But a five-year benchmark sets a high standard. “If you can’t prove you’ve been there for five years, it’s going to be practically impossible” to avoid the tax, It is important that title is transferred into the Rodríguez-Walters said. buyer’s name and a lien placed on the property. In some cases, the tax can be a shock to sellers. Ask about pre-payment penalties if any. In the past, buyers were often encouraged to record Make sure that when all payments are made a lower property value when they buy a house, only you have the developer sign off your lien in front to face a large capital gains hit when they go to sell of aproperty. Mexican notary. the It is isimportant get a should statement of insist your “This the reasonto[buyers] definitely closing costs. upon declaring full value paid in their deed so that when certificate No Liens. theyAlways sell theyask willfor paya an income orofcapital gains tax on In-house financing brings the possibility of only the profit,” Neil said. more comingresidents in to the real declare estate U.S.buyers and Canadian canBaja typically market. As more developers begin to offer the tax they pay in Mexico on their home-countrythis inopportunity, the demand property come taxes, easing some offor the beachfront hit. will“Foreign continue to increase. theit chances buyers need to beWith sure this, they do right, deof getting more less will steadily or clare full value, payfor taxes andmoney get the proper documenrapidly decrease; as was the case with the tation to prove to tax authorities in their home countries previous boom that started early in the decade, SWEITZER CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT COMPANY BJ Sweitzer Consultant
that they need a credit/deduction on their Mexican properties,” Neil said. Kevin Brass, is the editor of International Property Journal. Through booms and busts, Kevin has chronicled the internawhich had prices rising 10International percent toHerald 15 percent tional property industry for the Tribune per year.York Times. His popular International Herald Tribune and New The demand for coastal blog, “Raising the Roof,” was namedreal one estate of the Topin20Baja real estate blogs still in theexists. world byThe NuWire A frequent California lackInvestor. of purchasing speaker atbrought industry events, and analysis power about Kevin’s by thefeatures economy is onehave of appeared in a wide variety of publications, including Los the reasons for the slow market. When youthe make Angeles available Times, San for Diego San Diegobuyers, Magazineand and funds theTribune, prospective Hispanic Business. In 2008 GlobalEdge named Kevin one of combine it with the current prices, the possibility the 100 most powerful property journalists in the world.
of a next boom is not so far fetched.
This article is reprinted with permission from Kevin Brass and the Alejandra Esquivel was born in Baja California International Property Journal www.internationalpropertyjournal.com.
and has never lived far from the Baja coast. She has written several articles on its cities, communities and places of interest. You can find more information on Baja California and this particular subject by visiting www. bajarealestategroup.net.
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April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
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Open House US$154,500 OPEN HOUSE PHOTO ADS Publish your real estate photo
Baja's Best Lakeside Living
ad for ONLY $50. Simply email your copy and photo to sales@ mexicoliving.info and Mexico Living will contact you. If you have questions, please call 686-230-9933 in Mexico or 877-LUVMEX1 from the US.
Just south of downtown Ensenada, nestled in a canyon surrounded by mountains, 12 acres of lakes and 300 verdant acres is the Baja Country Club. The Baja Country Club has been known for its gorgeous par 72 championship golf course, which is open to the public.
Loreta, Baja California Sur Beachfront Rental. Two bedroom, 2 1/2 bath, sleeps six. Unique, private home, five miles north of town. Kayaks, bikes, etc. $1,000/week or $3,500/month. Email jwbaja1@gmail.com.
Baja Country Club is a sanctuary, encompassing natural beauty and tranquility, with cooling ocean breezes and gated, controlled security. The Baja Country Club is a gated community with homes by the prestigious Marena development group, which are well known for Club Marena in Rosarito. These consist mainly of two choices of custom home locations around the golf course. An impressive but elegant wall surrounds the entire area making it more exclusive.
San Felipe, Baja California One can truly appreciate the beauty and peace of Baja in this gorgeous, 2,100 sq. ft. home. It comes completely furnished, has a separate two-bedroom casita, and the amenities are too extensive to list them all; upgraded furniture and appliances, ceiling fans, entertainment center, 109-inch Projection DLP Home Theatre and many, many more. The outdoor living area is over 9,000 sq. ft., including pool, spa, shower, kitchen, and lots of privacy. This million dollar property is PRICED TO SELL at only US$499,000! To start living your dream, contact Bill Maine at (619) 203-5129; from the U.S. (760) 688-6238; or VIPearthEVents@gmail.com.
The homes are situated on the mountain side and on the fairway side, and three different models are available: Los Cabos, Loreto and a recently released San Felipe model. It will also be offering tennis courts and resident and guest pools in addition to the golf course and club house amenities. A few model homes are available for viewing and many homes are already being constructed and delivered to excited owners. Starting prices in phase one offer a great investment opportunity. The Baja Country Club is found at the end of a canyon and is surrounded by mountains that embrace the Bentgrass greens and ocean breezes gently blow over the property. PRICES: Were starting at $162,500, NOW at $154,500 BAJA COUNTRY CLUB Fancisco I Modero Cañon San Carlos Ensenada, B.C Mexico Mailing Address: 858 3rd Avenue #312, Chula Vista, CA 91911 Phone: 011 52 (646) 177-5523 From the U.S.: (866) 599-0631 Fax: 011 52 (646) 120-1924 Email: club@bajacountryclub.com.
Los Barriles, Baja California Sur Ensenada de Palmas, Buenos Aires, Los Barriles, has lots, in a new community, nestled between the Sierra Madre Mountains and the Beautiful Sea of Cortez with views to the north and the south. Lots range from 800 M2 to 1,500 M2, so you can build your dream home. Lots are near the town of Los Barriles. Prices from US$40,000 to $100,000. Lots are also available in other communities. Cell: (624) 355-5782, Nextel 72*698805*3, ask for Jorge Ortiz, or email jorgeortiz_medrano@hotmail.com.
The Models
San Felipe, Baja California This beautiful 2 Master Suite home is located in the gated community of El Dorado Ranch in San Felipe, Baja California. Front and back tiled patios offer sea and mountain views. The rooftop deck is perfect for stargazing and relaxing. Includes great room, garage and billiard table. Home is fully furnished, ready to move in TODAY! Offered at $209k Bill Maine 686-231-4921 or 619-203-5129. 38
April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
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La Paz, Baja California Sur This stylish home must be seen to be appreciated! Located in El Comitan roughly 15 Km north of La Paz. Has a large, bright living/ dining area and an open kitchen with state-ofthe art appliances. Master bed and bath are located on the main floor with a covered patio to the pool area. A separate stairwell takes you to the terrace with a guest bedroom, bath and outstanding views. Approximately 1,700 sq. ft., fully furnished, professionally landscaped with an automatic irrigation system. PRICED TO SELL at US$340,900. Contact Alexander at 011 52 (613) 104-3625 or alexander@loretorealty.com.
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All ads must be placed online at bajareport@gmail.com. All Ads Must be posted by the last Friday of each month. All ads must be specific, no generic ads, All ads must be 60 words or less 0408 MX. WANTED MULEGÉ: 89’ Wrangler Jeep 4x4. 5 speed with power steering REPORTERS WANTED: Mexico Living’s Baja California is looking and power brakes, CD player, new top, tires, brakes and battery. for community reporters. If you’re interested and would like to get Always garaged. Runs great and in beautiful condition. $5,500. paid for your writing, email mexicoliving@gmail.com. Located at Posada Concepcion #42. jyjgradisher@yahoo.com, SALES ASSOCIATES - ROSARITO BEACH, ENSENADA and CABO (619) 793-4790 U.S., (646) 155-0408 MX. SAN LUCAS. Mexico Living’s Baja California is looking to expand MULEGÉ: 1997 Neptune fishing boat 18 1/2’ center console. our sales team and are looking for a few self-motivated go getters. 90HP Evinrude, 37 gal. built in gas tank, T-top with enclosed We are looking to expand the Ensenada, Rosarito Beach and Cabo electronics box, Lorence sonar fish finder, GPS, radio, dual San Lucas markets. If you’re interested and would like to make batteries, trailer. Excellant condition. Located at Posada a living in Baja meeting new people, email mexicoliving@gmail. Concepcion #42. $8,500. jyjgradisher@yahoo.com, (619) 793com 4790 U.S., (646) 155-0408 MX. ENSENADA DISTRIBUTION: Mexico Living is looking for someone LA PAZ: 30-foot travel trailer in good condition; 1995 Prowler. to distribute in the Ensenada area. Must have reliable car and Includes all factory options, microwave, AC, full awning and know the area. If you’re interested and would like to make a living more. Room for 6, completely self-contained. It’s ready to go, in Baja meeting new people, email mexicoliving@gmail.com. just come and hook her up! $8,500 OBO. CASH ONLY! Call Dax at missing (612) 140-3070; for pictures, email mav_1070@yahoo.com. Missing Dog “Pickle” Lost on Sunday, January 3rd around 2:00 SAN FELIPE: 6-Pak, 8 1/2’ CABOVER CAMPER. Sleeps 6, fully selfp.m. at KM 224 1/2 on Highway 1 - 55 KM north of Bahia Los contained, 2-way frig, new Fantastic Fan and furnace, stove w/oven, Angeles turnoff in the Laguna Chapala Area.Please call: 001 (619) hydraulic jacks and more. In very good condition. $1,500 firm. 576851-4959 or 045 (624) 141-6121. **$1000 USD REWARD** 0329, (530) 386-2770 (U.S. cell), bajafun4us@yahoo.com PETS SAN FELIPE: Barely used 8 hp Honda four stroke outboard and 10 ft zodiac. New over 3K. Asking 1.5K obo. Contact MULEGE: FREE puppies to good Families. 2 Neutered Males and Ron Cartwright at Campo San Antonio km 43 or Jacobsen at 2 Females, 9 weeks old, Vaccinated, Dewormed. Call Joanna at torstenjacobsen@sbcglobal.net (615) 101-5031 or jrspinoza@yahoo.com BAJA CALIFORNIA: AKC Registered English Bulldog puppies for sale. Playful, good with kids and other pets; you will definitely love them. Email Richard at richard_smith500@yahoo.com. FOR SALE BAJA CALIFORNIA: Unlimited calls to U.S., Canada and more for 29.99 per month. Videophone available so you can see the person. Email jlb@elreysol.com or call (858) 414-4825. ROSARITO BEACH: 2006 Polares 4x4 quad 500 Sportsman Red Flame edition with very low hours. Owned by a 70-year-old man - wife says, “you don’t ride it, so sell it.” Like new! $4,300; always garaged. jyjgradisher@yahoo.com, (629) 793-4790 U.S., (646) 155-0408 MX. ROSARITO BEACH: 1990 Achillies Inflatable 13’ Heavy Duty red dive boat with 15HP Suzuki includes transom wheels for easy launching and removable bimini top. Great condition. $2,200. jyjgradisher@yahoo.com, (619) 793-4790 U.S., (646) 155-
SAN FELIPE: 2002 Dodge Ram 2500. $4,950. Great condition! Extended cab 2-wheel drive. Air conditioner, power windows and locks, spray on bedliner, deluxe interior, automatic transmission, towing package, recent tires, Magnum 5.9L V8 engine. REAL ESTATE ROSARITO BEACH: Casa only 15 miles south of Rosarito in the upscale Mision Viejo community. Beautiful 3 bed, 2 bath, 2-car garage; completely furnished. $299,000 takes over a fedeicomiso that has 96 years left. Will also consider long-term lease. jyjgradisher@yahoo.com, (619) 793-4790 U.S., (646) 155-0408 MX. SAN FELIPE: A Lot at San Felipe by the Sea for sale by owner. US$130,000 cash. Best offer considered - very close to the beach. Email Kazuyo Kano at sanfelipebythesea@rocketmail.com. SAN FELIPE: Oceanview lot for sale in Playa de Oro. Walking distance to the beach, gated community. US$84,500. Email Dave
and contain contact info and price. Mexico Living reserves the right to edit all ads for length, or to refuse any ads. We will not print ads submitted with ALL CAPS. at djwakefield@cox.net. apt. plus party and sleeping deck. Just bring your food and clothes. Clean, safe, sandy beach. Well behaved pets welcome. $80 per MULEGÉ: Beachfront casa 15 miles south of Mulegé on Baja night up to 4 persons, children free. bajaladykm40@yahoo.com LORETO: Beachfront Rental, 2 Bed, 2 1/2 Bath, sleeps 6. Concepcion in Posada Concepcion. Two story, 2 bed, 2 bath, Unique, private home, 5 miles north of town. Kayaks, Bikes inc. and garage with loft. Utilities and trash included in $4,400 annual $1,000/wk or $3,500/mo. Email for more info: jwbaja1@gmail. 10-year renewal lease. Security, boat moorage and tennis court. com, or visit estrelladeloreto.com $175,000. jyjgradisher@yahoo.com, (619) 793-4790 U.S., (646) 155-0408 MX. LORETO: $120,000 / 2br for sale by owner. Exciting sportfishing casita in Loreto/Puerto Escondido, Tripui Resort B-07, 2 years LORETO: Central Loreto Real Estate For Sale by Harbor. Cleared, old, secured American community, A/C, all utilities, insulated, flat, partially fenced 4,ooo plus sq foot lot for sale. Full title, 150K, pool, Dish. Contact Joe at AmigoJoe2@yahoo.com for details, email lizinloreto@gmail.com. Paved street and sidewalk, utilities to lot. U.S. (805) 748-4566. directions, and pictures. LORETO: 2BR, Exciting Sports Fishing Casita in Loreto/Puerto Escondido, Tripui Resort #B-07/8 in La Mano de Dios, the heart of world-class sportfishing, cruising, sailing, off-roading and all kinds of recreation. Contact Joe at AmigoJoe2@yahoo.com for details, directions and pictures. US$120,000 LA PAZ: Lot for sale in the lovely community of Bellaterra (located in the hills above Marina Palmira). Stunning ocean views. It’s just a few minutes away from downtown La Paz. Call Dax at (612) 140 3070. For pictures, email mav_1070@yahoo.com LA PAZ: Excellent Rustic Lots in San Pedro, only a 30 min. from city, 20m x 43m, 860m2 = 9,257 sq ft. Deposit $3,500 pesos and 48 Fixed Monthly payments of $1,220 pesos. www.inverlap. com. roberto.cunningham@inverlap.com, (612) 128-1808, (612) 128-1878. RENTALS SAN FELIPE: MINI RV PARK Long-term rentals; Newly developed: 8 RV sites within Campo Ocotillos, 5 miles north of San Felipe. Complete hook-ups $220 plus elect, 2 Full-size trailers already set-up $330 plus elect. Also trailer on private residential property with complete overhead cover, deck and fenced yard. (686) 576-0347, shirleythomp@gmail.com LORETO: Casitas for rent by week/month. Pool and Free WiFi. Fully furnished, steps from Malecon. 1-3 person casitas with full kitchen, AC, pool and BBQ area, quiet area secure, and room to park! Pets considered. Quiet adult facility. Weekly, $490/mo and $1,500/mo. U.S. (805) 459-3100, MX (613) 135-2536. CABO: Timeshare rentals available for Spring Break, Apr 3–10. 2br, 3ba, Sleeps 6+, Ocean $2,400; 1br $1,400. Call Irene Nisbet, (951) 255-4856 U.S. SAN FELIPE: Beautiful South Campos Beachfront, 2 bedroom
Across 1: Browser function 5: Blood fluid 11: Scrooge's exclamation 14: Gaucho's cattle catcher 15: Door topper 16: Time-wasting bother 17: Woodstock wear 19: 'Quadrophenia' band, with 'The' 20: Pivotal 21: Small division of a plant 23: Be a cast member of 26: LP measure 28: Roll call response 29: Place for pumps 31: Ornithologist 33: Droop 34: Lift 36: Understanding 41: Biker's wear, often 42: Tune 44: Gas up 47: Upper or Lower, in New York 50: Sparkle 51: Include 52: Just-hatched hooter 53: Stiff boxes? 56: Cry over spilled milk 57: Choose 58: Concerns for ecologists 64: Employ 65: Worst kind of checkups, to many
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BAHIA DE LOS ANGELES: Beautiful beachfront house on 2 acres. 2 bed, 2 bath, open floor plan, and massive wood beam ceiling. Large detached garage, solar power. Launching ramp and palapa on a quiet sandy beach. $325,000. Owner may carry with substantial down payment. (562) 810-1941, haciendaangelitos@ yahoo.com ANNOUNCEMENTS ROSARITO BEACH: 2010 SCAAT Free Spay/Neuter Schedule. Apr. 11, May 9, June 13, July 11, Aug. 8, Sep. 12, Oct. 10, Nov. 14 and Dec. 12. We need volunteers! Call Karen Patonai if you can help: (661) 613-0737; karenpatonai@yahoo.com TODOS SANTOS: AA Meeting at Church Courtyard, Monday through Saturday, 5–6 p.m. (612) 145-0265 or (612) 145-0364. SAN FELIPE: 72 Baja Cookbooks. 400 recipes for all sorts of foods, drinks, appetizers, main dishes, salads, soups, breads, and brunch and desserts. The profits go to the Food Bank and other related food charities in San Felipe. Look for them at the Swap Meet or email Debrah at debrahmoore@yahoo.ca. BUSINESS SERVICES RENTAL CONTRACTS FOR MEXICO: English in the left column, with Spanish in the right column. These contracts are custom drafted for Mexico, and have safely served hundreds of rental property owners and tenants. See sample rental contract pages and download the rental contract at www.mexico-contracts.com. help@mexico-contracts.com. Starting at US$20. Good for all states. AUTOMOTIVE: ROSARITO - Colisiones Corona. Genuine and aftermarket auto body parts, radiators, hoods, headlamps, taillaps, fenders, grills, bumpers, signal lamps, door handles, mirrors, AC condensers. (Auto Wrecking) 428-C, Blvd. Benito Juarez. Playas de Rosarito B.C.152*14*19670, (661) 613-1109.
66: Browning of pages of verse, for example 67: Cygnet's mother 68: Treeless plain 69: Kane's dying thought Down 1: Fall off, as the tide 2: She's a deer 3: Hardly hale 4: Entertainment innovation of the late '20s 5: Piece of strategy 6: Like cherries jubilee 7: Aardvark's tidbit 8: Big blow 9: In-box item 10: Besides 11: Had a good cry 12: Stick like glue 13: Car horn, to a Brit 18: Crooked 22: '... and baby makes ___' 23: Balaam's mount 24: Burn to a crisp 25: Roman wrap 26: Transplant, in a way 27: Sitting 30: Of the countryside 31: Oktoberfest servings 32: Mao follower? 35: Yet to occur
Mexico Living’s Baja California – April 2010
37: Pay out, with 'down' 38: Capital of Phoenix? 39: Tooth's partner 40: Lunar effect 43: Out of work? (abbr.) 44: Get back 45: Go by 46: Secure 48: Term of enlistment 49: TV ratings period 51: In reserve 54: Segments of history 55: Without give 56: Thorny flower 59: Touch of winter 60: Uploading initials 61: Helios, to the Romans 62: Player's peg 63: Avg.
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MEXICO LIVING Guide Pacific Baja & The Sea of Cortez PO Boxto 9019-460 Calexico, CA 92232
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April 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California
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