Edition 27 - August 2009

$20 MEX / $3.00 USA No. 27 - www.mexicolivingguide.com

August / agosto 2009

Guadalupe Valley’s

Alternative Wine Route Fiestas de la Vendimia 2009 Explore the Culinary Delights of Pacific Baja and the Sea of Cortez

Discover Baja’s High Country Cholla Bay’s Best Kept Secret

Food & Wine Edition LIVE • WORK • PLAY • INVEST • RETIRE

Welcome to Northwest Mexico

Shop from home with the comfort of knowing that your order is backed by a 100% Money Back Guarantee. This 30-Day Guarantee gives you plenty of time to check items for color, high quality and size. If for any reason you need to return or exchange, cancel or change an order, just contact our Customer Service department and you’re done! Please include the order number of the item that you would like to cancel to ensure accuracy.

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To order by phone, please call us toll-free at (877) 809-1659 during our customer service hours. Before calling, please note the Product Numbers of the items you wish to order. To find the Product Number, simply click on the item you wish to order and locate the Product Number below the item name (such as White T-shirt).

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Order Status is quick and simple. Visit our Order Status page, the easiest and fastest way to get the most current information regarding your current or past orders. If your order has been shipped via UPS, you may track it using links provided in your order detail.

www.MexicoLivingMarket.com

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MLG T-Shirts (light)

Babies & Kids

Pets

Mugs & Cups

Light-colored Mexico Living “Guide to the Good Life” T-shirts in a variety of styles and colors.

Start ’em young. Great gift ideas and rags for the rug rats.

Your pet can live the Good life too. Pooch apparel and delightful doggie dishes.

Mexico Living Mugs & Cups are great for home and office.

Custom T-Shirts

Bags

Housewares

Hats & Caps

Custom T-shirts in a variety of styles and designs.

Bags and totes to carry all the great stuff you’ll need in Mexico.

Fun, and creative houseware products for your home or office.

Baseball caps and other hats in a variety of colors and designs.

www.MexicoLivingMarket.com 2 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

All Major Credit Cards Accepted

Welcome to Northwest Mexico

www.theprintsupplier.com FROM USA: 1-800-576-0919 FROM MEXICO: 001-880-576-0919

Lowest Overall Prices in North America We’ll beat any competitors price!

For the last 6 years, The Print Supplier has been serving small printers, graphic designers and print brokers with the nation’s lowest overall prices on high quality color business printing.

Customer service is available to serve you from 9AM - 5PM Monday-Friday, Pacific Time.

US:1-800-576-0919 www.theprintsupplier.com support@ theprintsupplier.com

OTHER PRODUCTS & SERVICES

WELCOME / BIENNVENIDO

Now we’re offering it to the public. Same low prices, fast turnaround and untouchable quality.

Same Day Service Brochure / Flyer Special Print & Mail Package Business Cards Business Card Special Postcards Brochures / Flyers Letterhead Envelopes Rack Cards Door Hangers Posters Catalogs Catalogs, Mini Folders Bookmarks Bargain Bin Promotional Cards Bulletins & Inserts Greeting Cards CD and DVD Announcement Envelopes Postcard Special Table Tents Stickers and Labels Metallics Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 3

Welcome to Northwest Mexico

Mexico Living Team & Contacts

Table of Contents EACH SECTION IS COLOR CODED ON THE RIGHT MARGIN

USA: 800-576-0919 Ext. 3 Ensenada: 646-192-6965 San Felipe: 686-2314921 Puerto Peñasco: 638-388-5004 San Carlos: 622-111-2624 Rosarito: 661-614-3019 Website: www.mexicolivingguide.com Email: info@mexicoliving.info Mexico Living is a guide committed to promoting Northwest Mexico to the limits of our abilities and to provide a valuable resource to visitors and residents, while showing that Northwest Mexico is a great place not only to visit and play, but also to live and work—a place to call home.

Guadalupe Valley’s

Alternative Wine Route Fiestas de la Vendimia 2009 Explore the Culinary Delights of Pacific Baja and the Sea of Cortez

Discover Baja’s High Country Cholla Bay’s Best Kept Secret

Cover photo by Karimala | istockphoto.com

Wine & Food Edition LIVE • WORK • PLAY • INVEST • RETIRE

Published by John Benjamin Pack Publisher/Editor, John Pack, john@mexicoliving.info Publisher, Rachel Pack, rachel@mexicoliving.info Editor, Brenda Judy, editor@mexicoliving.info Golf Editor, Hal “Paco” Clark, bajapaco@gmail.com Regional Sales Associates Carlos Duran Rosarito Beach carlos@mexicoliving.info

Russ Black Puerto Peñasco russ@mexicoliving.info

Bill Maine San Felipe billmaine@gmail.com

Lynn Prince San Carlos lynnprinceformlg@gmail.com

Rachel Pack Ensenada rachel@mexicoliving.info Distribution Gene & Darcy Jensen, Regional Carlos Duran, Gold Coast Nuria Holly Bocanegra, Ensenada

Welcome: Contributors.........................................................5 Editor’s Angle......................................................6 Letters to the Editor..............................................7 Welcome to Northwest Mexico.............................8 Spanish Survival..................................................8 Calendar & Events: Safe Sonora.......................................................10 Calendar Dates...................................................10 Lucha Libre Racing............................................11 Food Events.......................................................12 The Retro Rockets..............................................13 People & Voices: Fish Fly..............................................................14 The People & Voices of Sonora...........................15 The Gypsy Journal.............................................16 Humor & Tidbits................................................18 Things to Do: Alternative Wine Route..............................................19 Things to See: Discover Baja’s High Country.............................22 Things to Do: First Annual 2009 Vendimia Golf Open................46 Places to Eat: Explore the Culinary Delights..............................25 Places to Stay: Cholla Bay’s Best Kept Secret.............................38

Russ Black, Puerto Penasco Bill Maine, San Felipe

Writers Bob Ham, Carlos Durán, Russ Black, Naomi Black, Gretchen Ellinger, Penny Nask, Beverly Arrowood, Linda Shiflett, Carlos & Julia Bono, Lynn Prince, Steven Forman, Lisa Shannon, Steve Dryden, Alfonso Arambula, John Pack, Benjamin Eugene, Rachel Pack, Rita Pizarro, Audery Coffman, Ron Saunders, and Christa Thomas.

Ad Graphics GreetScape adart@mexicoliving.info

Production Layout Carolyn Sheltraw info@csheltraw.com

Mexico Mailing Address: Yetmail Box #460 San Felipe, B.C. Mexico 21850

USA Mailing Address: PO Box 9019, PMB#460 Calexico, CA 92232

Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher. All contributors and advertisers assume responsibility and liability for the accuracy of their statements and claims. All readers assume responsibility for actions or decisions they might make as a result of reading this publication. We reserve the right to refuse any advertising.

Baja California.................................................40 Fiestas de la Vendimia 2009...............................46 Rotary in San Felipe...........................................52 Around Town in San Felipe.................................53 Baja California Sur..........................................66 Around Town in Loreto.......................................71 Fishing Vacation in Loreto..................................73 Around Town in La Paz.......................................75 Earth, Sea & Sky Vacations Recognized.............77 Sonora..............................................................80 Around Town in Puerto Peñasco.........................84 Brain Games.....................................................94 Classified..........................................................95

4 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Welcome to Northwest Mexico

Contributors

Steve Dryden lives in Valle de Guadalupe, in the heart of Mexico’s premier wine country. Steve is a wine, food and travel writer for local, regional and international publications. He also owns and operates Baja Wine and Tours.

His custom wine tours cater to individuals, small and large groups.

Focusing on small, intimate tours for individuals, couples and friends who cherish personal and private tours by one of the most knowledgeable guides and wine writers in the region, Steve offers you an opportunity to meet the many diverse personalities in the Mexican wine culture and have a fun-filled day.

Steve also books lodging, and he can be reached via email at sbdryden@ hotmail.com or www.bajawineandtours.com.

Stockton Hill – After losing the love of his life early, Stockton decided he needed a big change and left Sevenoaks, England, for the Gulf of Mexico. He found his new love— Mexico, its people and culture, and has been exploring the amazing places, as well as eating his way around the country, every since.

Rita Pizarro, Puerto Peñasco – In addition to freelance writing, Rita also offers vacation rentals by owner, massage, home inspections, yoga, kite surfing, pet sitting and adventure camps. It seems like a lot, but it fits her active lifestyle. ritapizarro@gmail.com

Lynn Prince, San Carlos / Guaymas – Lynn is a researcher and freelance journalist, and the fundraising event coordinator for Casa de Hogar orphanage in Guaymas. She was the feature editor and staff writer for the San Carlos Times/Tribune. lynnprinceformlg@ gmail.com

WELCOME / BIENNVENIDO

Featured Contributor

Mexico Living is only possible through the continued contributions from all these knowledgeable and talented people. If you would like to become a contributor, please email mexicoliving@gmail.com

Sean Harrington, San Felipe – An entrepreneur looking for a fresh canvas to apply strokes to, Sean would like to see San Felipe flourish in a sustainable way. Think globally, act locally. Sean does real estate consulting, massage, photography, writes the local weather for Mexico Living online and runs a segunda out of his home.

Lynn Hamman, Loreto – Born in Sacramento, CA, Lynn and her husband, Randy, have five children and seven grandchildren. They traveled the U.S. looking for a place to retire and decided on Loreto, Mexico. She’s a webmaster for Hidden Port Yacht Club, a volunteer at the University, and operates a rental business, Hamman’s Vacaciones, www.stayinloreto.com.

Carlos Durán, Playas de Rosarito – Born in Calexico. Carlos owned a Latino publication for the Long Beach/LA area for five years.

Today he is a dual citizen and enjoys traveling the peninsula as often as possible. bajayadayada@gmail.com

John Ashman, La Paz – Married to a Paseña (La Paz dweller), John divides his time between writing, doing audio/video work and flipping cheesesteaks. He’s also thankful that his wife, Carmina, helps him do research for his articles. john@audiobaja.com

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 5

Welcome to Northwest Mexico

’S R O T LE I D E NG A

Wine and Dine Me…

Oh, yes . . . there’s nothing

better

than

finishing off a fabulous

visited the wineries, we’re going to whet your appetite by showing you the fine cuisine available in this area.

meal with a glass of exotic

artisan

If you live in this region, we’ll introduce you

wine.

to places that you didn’t even know existed. All

So, for those of you

you have to do is just hop in the car and try

that love food (which

something new and amazing. And, as an extra

is probably all of you)

bonus, if you’re lucky, you might also go home

and good wine, then this will most likely be your

with a cooking secret from the chef.

favorite edition.

We’re going to take you on a tour of some of the most fantastic restaurants and wineries that Pacific Baja and the Sea of Cortez have to offer. Now, mind you, there are many, many more than what you’ll

Plan on visiting?

We’re going to take you on a tour

Then you had better bring a copy of

of some of the most fantastic

this edition along

restaurants and wineries

will we guide you to

that Pacific Baja and the Sea of

and wineries, this

Cortez have to offer.

tains coupons and

find in this month’s

with you. Not only the best restaurants month’s guide condiscounts for some

guide—but, it would be impossible to cover them

of our featured restaurants that you won’t find

all. So, this month, you’re going to get a “taste”

elsewhere.

of what’s available and what you have been missing.

No matter what tickles your fancy, or what

So, what are you waiting for? Come experience the culinary delights that Pacific Baja and the Sea of Cortez have to offer!

pleases your taste buds, you’ll definitely find it here. From authentic Mexican cuisine, French, Italian, steak and fresh seafood, to your traditional American dishes—we’re going to cover them all.

We’ll start by pleasing your palette with a

P.S. As always, I’m interested in hearing from

tour of the hidden gems along the alternative

you, what you think of Mexico Living and any

wine route in the premier wine country of Baja

ideas or comments you may have to improve

California Norte in Valle de Guadalupe, and you’ll

YOUR GUIDE TO THE GOOD LIFE. So, send

experience what these artisan wineries have to

your suggestions and comments to editor@

offer. This is only the beginning. Once you’ve

mexicoliving.info.

6 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Welcome to Northwest Mexico

Letters to the Editor My wife, Leigh, and I saw the article by Steve Dryden about the Hacienda Restaurant, “Wine Country Cuisine at Hacienda Restaurant,” in the June edition and decided to drive down from Rosarito Beach for our 13th Anniversary.

We showed the article to the owner and waiters.

They were delighted. Our lunch was fantastic and they even gave us a free flan for our celebration.

Thanks to Steve for a great find.

—Bruce and Leigh Harmer Bruce and Leigh, Happy belated Anniversary!

Steve Dryden is pleased that he was able to

help make your anniversary a special one. Since you really liked the Hacienda, be sure to read this month’s issue, cover to cover. Not only does Steve have some more “great finds” for you, our other contributors also have some that you won’t want to miss!

Also, thank you so much for sharing photos of your memorable occasion.

Pet-Friendly Lodging Today a lady asked if I knew how to access a website that indicated the hotel/motels that allowed pets. I remembered an article back in November about a dinky motel in Ensenada that allowed pets.

Since I save a copy of all of them, I reread it and you mentioned there was another motel, but never gave the name.

This begs the bigger question, do you, Mexico Living, know of a site where you can access this information, less calling every motel/hotel in Baja. I have a book that lists all the RV parks/campgrounds, but they are going to drive down in a car.

I got my copy of Mexico Living today and first read the editorial. You asked for input, so I’d like to see an article on traveling in Baja with pets. We always take our RV; maybe you could investigate not just motel/hotel/condos but also add the RV

parks that are pet friendly. Also, if you could include any website that you know of, that would be great.

—Kathy Thompson Kathy, thank you for your suggestion as well as being a loyal Mexico Living reader. Actually, we were already planning on writing an article about traveling with your pet in Mexico for a future edition. However, I love your idea on including pet friendly lodging.

Our staff is already researching hotels, motels, condos and RV parks that are pet-friendly. So, be sure to read next month’s issue to find out more about traveling with your furry little friends and pet-friendly lodging in Pacific Baja and the Sea of Cortez.

WELCOME / BIENNVENIDO

Wine Country Cuisine

SEND US FEEDBACK As always, we are interested in hearing from you, what you think of Mexico Living, and the topics you’d like for us to cover. Send your suggestions and comments to editor@mexicoliving.info.

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 7

Welcome to Northwest Mexico

Northwest Mexico

Statue on the Malecon of La Paz, BCS

Photo by Rachel Pack.

Welcome to Northwest Mexico Live, Work and Play in Paradise.

he Mexican states of Baja California, Baja T California Sur, and Sonora make up Northwest Mexico as covered by our guide. The region features

an enormous diversity of landscapes like no place on earth—a land of quiet, colorful deserts, endless beaches, majestic mountains, forests, unexplained rock formations, brilliant clear skies, an average temperature of seventy-five degrees, and some of the most welcoming people in the world.

Northwest Mexico is the destination of choice for retirees, investors, entrepreneurs, travelers, and vacationers alike. The U.S. State Department say more Americans retire in Mexico than any other place on the globe; 51% of all U.S. retirees who live outside of the U.S. live in Mexico.

This Month’s Survival Spanish

Greetings

Hello: Hola (ola) Good day: Buenos dias (bwoo nos deeas) Good afternoon: Buenos tardes (bwoo nos tar des) Good night or good evening: Buenos noches (bwoo nas no ches) Enchanted to meet you: Encantado (en can tar doe) Pleased to meet you: Mucho gusto (much o goos toe) What’s your name?: Como se llama? (com o say ya ma) How are you? (informal): Que tal? (kay tal) How are you? (polite): Como esta usted? (como es ta oost ed)

Mexico is economical; the dollar goes further here than it does in Europe, Canada, and the most popular destinations of Asia. The people of Mexico are accustomed to Americans and vice versa. Mexico welcomes American retirees and tourists and is increasingly prepared to offer the foods, goods, and services that Americans like and expect.

Whether you’re looking to retire, invest, vacation, or operate a business, Northwest Mexico is the place.

We hope our guide helps you to enjoy Northwest Mexico to the fullest. Explore!

Mexico, visitmexico.com

Pronunciation: Vowels a - like a in father e - like e in ten i - like ee in see o - like o in rose u - like oo in shoot (silent after q or g) ai, ay - like y in try au - like ow in cow ei, ey - like ay in day ie - like ye in yellow oi, oy - like oy in boy Pronunciation: Consonants b - b and v are the same. Sounds more like an English v. c - before a,o,u or any consonant but h, like k in kitten; before e or i, it’s like s in sit. cc - like cc in accept d - beginning of a word, before or after n or l, like English d, otherwise it’s like th in this. g - followed by e or i, h like hit, otherwise like g in good. h - silent j - like h in hot ll - like y in yes n - like ny in canyon q - like k in kite, followed by eu, ui the u is silent. r - at the beginning of a word, like rr, otherwise like d in ladder. rr - roll of the tough v - b and v are the same. Sounds more like an English v. x - like an English x, sometime pronounced like h in hit. y - Alone like i, otherwise like y in yes z - like s in sit

8 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Welcome to Northwest Mexico

What can I bring into Mexico?

As you approach the order, there are generally multiple lanes labeled “Nothing to Declare - Nada que Declarar” and “Declaration Lane - Carril de Declaración.”

Nothing to Declare Lane ($75 per personal value or less) This lane is used when you are bringing, as a tourist (FMT) $75 or less. Your personal luggage and other merchandise up to the allowed exemption - US $75 per person. The amount is cumulative per number of person in the vehicle. For example two people would have a $150 exemption. You must have receipts and invoices to qualify for the exemption.

Personal Items Allowed: • New or used such as clothes, shoes and toiletries in quantities that would be considered not for resale.

• Two photographic or video cameras and charger.

• Two cellular phones or walkie-talkies, • Laptop, notebook, etc.

• Two sports equipment items.

• Portable radio recorder and/or player, speakers and accessories.

• Five laser discs, 10 DVDs, 30 CDs or cassette tapes. Five storage devices or memory cards.

• Books and magazines in quantities that would be considered not for resale.

• Five toys, video game console and video games • Medicine for personal use, one blood pressure instrument, one glucose testing device. In the case of psychotropic drugs, make sure you bring the prescription. Note: Be careful not to bring a large quantity of your prescription medication.

• One set of binoculars, one telescope.

• 2 (two) cartons of cigarettes, 25 cigars or 200 grams of tobacco if you are of age if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties).

• Up to three liters of liquor and six liters of wine (if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties).

• Strollers and baby walkers • Two musical instruments and accessories.

• Tent and equipment for camping.

• Crutches, canes, walkers, and wheelchairs for personal use.

• Tool sets including hand drills, wire cutters, wrenches, screwdrivers, cables, etc.

• Bedding sets including one sheet set, one towel set, a set of table linens.

• Two dogs or cats and pet items.

• Up to $10,000 in US currency or equivalent in other currencies, foreign or national checks, and/or other monetary instruments.

Declaration Lane ($75 - $1000) If you are bringing more than US $75 worth of merchandise per person, but not more than US $1000, you may declare it by driving into the customs facility thru the declaration lane (carril de declaración). There you will be able to fill out the proper documents and pay any duty. Duty can be between 15% and 25% of the value of the merchandise.

IMPORTANT NOTES: • Guns are illegal in Mexico. Do not attempt to cross the border with a gun and/or ammunition. You will be put in jail even if you were not aware of the Mexican law.

• If you have more than $10,000 in US currency or equivalent or other monetary instruments you must declare this with Mexican customs, otherwise it is a crime.

• You must declare if you are bringing any animals, agricultural products, medicine other than personal use.

• Amounts over US $1000 require the use of a Mexican customs broker.

WELCOME / BIENNVENIDO

WHAT DO I NEED? Passport. On June 1, 2009, the U.S. government implemented the full requirements of the land and sea phase of WHTI. The new rules require most U.S. citizens entering the United States at sea or land ports of entry to have a passport, passport card, or other travel document approved by the Department of Homeland Security. Additional information can be found at: http://travel.state.gov/passport

WHAT CAN I TAKE HOME? You can bring back 800 USD of duty-free merchandise per person, per month, including one liter of alcohol. Mexican arts and crafts, including handcrafted furniture, are duty-free and do not count toward the 800 USD limit.

VEHICLE PERMITS Tourists traveling with their vehicle beyond the border zone north of Ensenada, San Felipe or Puerto Peñasco must obtain a temporary import permit or risk having their vehicle confiscated by Mexican customs officials.

MILITARY CHECKPOINTS There are military checkpoints along the way to all the Northwest border cities. These check points serve the same purpose as the California and Arizona highway inspection stops you’ll encounter on the return north. The soldiers will be carrying weapons, but there is nothing to be concerned about, the soldiers are looking for drugs and guns. You’ll find them to be polite and friendly. They may ask to look inside your vehicle or RV. Check points on both sides of the border, are an agreement between the United States and Mexico to fight drugs.

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 9

Northwest Mexico Calendar & Events

NORTHWEST CALENDAR

Safe Sonora

Local Citizens in Action

by Lynn Prince Mike Huhn of Ocean Sports and a friend (who wishes to remain anonymous) started a great website called Sonora Is Safe. Take a look at www.sonoraissafe.com, tell your friends and get the word around.

Part of Mike’s plan is “Peace, Prosperity and Fun through Entertainment” . . . bringing big name bands down to San Carlos. The idea is a heartfelt attempt to help ALL businesses in the area during these hard economic times. The Bad News Blues Band and Angel Diamond and the Blues Disciples recently played to record crowds. I was there and, let me tell you, the bands tore the place down!

Upcoming Bands On the Beach: Retro Rockets – August 14 & 15, September 18 & 19, November 27 & 28 George Howards R&B Soul Review – October 16 & 17 Bad News Blues Band – January 1 & 2, 2010

These events are FREE, so that you will have the dinero to spend on food, beverages and lodging.

If you have any ideas or comments, email Mike at safesonora@hotmail.com.

IMPORTANT DATES Sep. 1: Annual State of the Union Sep. 15–16: Mexican Independence Celebration

LOCAL MONTHLY EVENTS

See the Community Calendar on www.mexicolivingguide.com for a weekly schedule of events for each city.

PLAYAS DE ROSARITO Jul. 16–Aug 10: Rosarito Beach Fair. More info, call Martha, (661) 612-0700.

Aug. 1: Wine dinners held the first Saturday at 7:30 in Chabert’s Restaurant. (800) 343-8582.

Aug. 2: XX International Seafood Festival. Rosarito Beach Hotel, 1 p.m. (661) 612-0700.

Aug. 7: Rosarito Beach Pro-AM Surf Competition.

(800) 962-2252 or jesus@rosarito.org Aug. 16 and Sep. 13: “22 Caliber Tournament.”

Rosarito Shooting Club Range, (661) 612-1028.

Sep. 2: Fall Motocross Series Round 1. A specially designed race track with jumps and obstacles in a circuit of approximately two miles. (619) 819-6323.

Sep. 17: Portofino Restaurant Pairing Dinner. $38 dollars, 7 p.m. at the Hotel Festival Plaza.

Reservation required. (800) 453-8606.

Sep. 26: Rosarito-Ensenada Bike Ride. A 50-mile bicycle ride along the Pacific Coast and inland through rural countryside, then a Fiesta until sunset. (800) 282-9352.

Sep. 27: IX Steak And Lobster Festival.

(661) 612-0700.

ENSENADA Aug. 7–23: Fiestas de la Vendimia. Visit www.mexicolivingguide.com for full details.

(646) 178-3038.

10 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Northwest Mexico Calendar & Events

Lucha Libre Racing to take on the Wilds of Baja

by Gary Holl

C AL ENDAR & EVENTS

attend and will be fierce competitors. A collection of the cars that raced the Baja, such as “Big Oly” that Jones drove to win the 1971 Baja 1000, will be on display in La Paz. The fastest teams will drive 40-plus-year-old desert racers at speeds in excess of 120 mph. The Lucha Libre Racing Datsun Fairlady Roadster team will humbly try to average a little over half that speed.

In 2006, Lucha Libre Racing was the first team to contest La Carrera Panamericana in a Datsun. The Carrera is a grueling seven-day, 2,000-mile highspeed road rally. The team had the least experience, the lowest horsepower, and in a field of 100 cars, they finished dead last. (They did, in all fairness, beat 19 cars that crashed or blew up.) This year, they bring the same keen expertise to the rigors of Baja.

In addition to the challenge of actually finishing the race, the Lucha Libre Racing team will deliver school supplies to three rural schools along the race route.

Sponsorship opportunities are still available.

Contact Michael Emery at 415.728.6960; Ted Donovan at 619.985.4950; or email chael@ luchalibreracing.com, mexicoted@yahoo.com, www.luchalibreracing.com.

Photo byMichael Emery

Lucha Libre Racing is going take on the wilds of Baja in Mexico’s Baja 1000 road race. The masked duo plans to deliver school supplies to rural children while disproving the adage that “nice guys finish last.”

Photographer and Mexico enthusiast Michael Emery tests his 25-year friendship with San Diegobased Baja travel expert Ted Donovan as they reunite as driver and navigator in the 90-horsepower 1967 Datsun Fairlady Roadster they drove to a stunning last place finish in the 2006 La Carrera Panamericana.

The pair will venture to Baja in September 2009 to compete in the Baja 1000, which bills itself as an event where amateur racers test their mettle against the clock and the elements on harrowing off-road sections and demanding on-road stages.

The 1,000-mile race runs September 16–20, starting on Mexican Independence day in Mexicali.

Day one runs to the tranquil fishing village of Bahia de Los Angeles. Day two ends in the sleepy resort of Loreto. Day three is a challenging run to the Colonial port city of La Paz. Each night the vehicles will be corralled in the town center, on display as the teams socialize and make repairs.

Legendary Baja racers Parnelli Jones, Ivan “IronMan” Stewart and Walker Evans are scheduled to

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 11

Northwest Mexico Calendar & Events

Food EVENTS August 7–23, 2009 Fiesta de la Vendimia

Valle de Guadalupe, Santo Tomas and Ensenada Two-week harvest festival celebrating Mexico’s premiere wine-making region. Wine tastings, elegant meals, and cultural events. www.fiestasdelavendimia.com

Mid-November 2009 International Gourmet Festival

wine tastings, and wine pairings in area restaurants, and conferences. www.vallartawinefest.com

May 2010

Chili Cookoff - Early May San Felipe, Baja California 6th Annual Club de Pesca International Chili Cookoff on the Ramada patio at Club de Pesca RV Park.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco Ten days of fine dining in several dozen restaurants.

Chefs from around the world team up with local restaurants to produce new menus. Special prices at participating restaurants. www.festivalgourmet.com

Restaurant Week - May 15–31

February 2010

National Wine & Cheese Fair - End of May

Vallarta Wine Fest

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco Third annual celebration of the grape with five days of events, including photography and poetry contests,

Aug. 8: Taurovinomaquia–Bullfighting Festival.

Held at Los Dolores, festivities start at noon.

(646) 178-3038.

Aug. 14: First Annual 2009 Vendimia Golf Open. U.S. (888) 311-6076; MX (800) 025-4075.

Aug. 16: VII Festival del Taco y la Cerveza.

Contact Olivia Herrera, (646) 177-0732.

SAN FELIPE Aug 22: 2nd Annual Bikini Contest. www.sanfelipeinfo.com Sep. 7: Labor Day weekend in the U.S. If you plan on visiting, plan ahead, there will be lots of people.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco For more than two weeks (despite its name) several dozen of the finest restaurants present inexpensive, fixed-price menus. A great time to try new places! www.visitpuertovallarta.com

Tesquisquiapan, Queretero Week-long wine and cheese fair with conferences, tastings, and live music. www.tequis.info

Sep. 16: Mexico’s Independence Day (National Holiday).

Sep. 22: Shrimp season begins.

SAN CARLOS Aug. 14-15, Sept 18-19: A Blast From the Past. The Retro Rockets perform live on the beach. FREE admission. www.

SonoraIsSafe.com.

Sep. 18–19: A Blast From the Past. The Retro Rockets perform live on the beach. FREE admission. www.SonoraIsSafe.com.

LORETO Aug 1: Fiesta Mexicana - Every Saturday night at Hacienda Suites.

12 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Northwest Mexico Calendar & Events

The Retro Rockets A Blast From the Past

by Lynn Prince

Sep. TBA: Our Lady of Loreto Festivities. Come celebrate the founding of this great temple.

This four-member Tucson band sings three-part harmony so sweetly that you’ll think you’re listening to the original recording. You will enjoy songs from The Beatles, The Monkees, The Turtles, The Beach Boys and many others.

The Retro Rockets will be at La Palapa Restaurant on August 14 and 15, September 18 and 19, and November 27 and 28 for a 5–8 p.m. concert on the beach. Don your ‘60’s clothes and come prepared to dance your golden slippers off doing The Twist, the Mashed Potato, the Monster Mash, the Monkey and the Dog, the Frug and the Hully Gully, and all those very cool dances the 60’s music generated . . . because this group’s music is fireworks for the dance floor crowd!

For more information, visit www.SonoraIsSafe.com or email safesonora@hotmail.com.

Virgin Mary. Processions begin around 10 a.m. with musical bands and floats.

Sep. TBA: Loreto 400 Car Race

Aug. 17–25: 3rd Annual Los Cabos Summer Dive Fiesta. (877) 479-3483.

LA PAZ

Sep. 1–31: Baja Sea Turtle Rescue. To get exact date, call (800)727-2252.

Aug. 2–Sep. 7: Live Aboard Diving In the Sea of Cortez. Hosted by Baja Expeditions. From Aug. 2 at 4 p.m. until Sep. 7 at 11 a.m.

C AL ENDAR & EVENTS

Music of the 1960s was characteristic of the revolution that was going on during the decade. It was a time of rebellion and counterculture in which the younger people were questioning everything, including authority, government, every aspect of life and the status quo. It was a fun, unique experience . . . just talk to any baby-boomers who were adolescents during that era and they will tell you how fun and fortunate they were to grow up in the ‘60s.

With that in mind Sonora Is Safe, in their efforts to promote tourism and the Sonoran economy, has created a Blast From the Past with a two-day concert in San Carlos with one of the best Rock and Roll bands in the Tucson area . . . The Retro Rockets.

Their music is centered on great oldies, and their high-energy classic rock with outrageous vocal harmonies wows audiences young and old alike!

Their music is pretty intergenerational . . . so bring the kids to this one!

Sep. 4: Torneo de Pesca Bisbee’s Sportfishing Tournament Offshore Circuit. www. bajatournaments.com

CABO SAN LUCUS Aug. 2–6: Bisbee’s East Cape Sportfishing Tournament. Anglers compete for Black or Blue Marlin, Dorado and Tuna. www.bisbees.com Aug. 15: Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 13

People & Voices

PEOPLE & VOICES

Centavo’s Two Cents

FISH FLY

by Penny Nask

Okay. I have been living in San Felipe for two years. I have learned many features about Baja . . . some by accident . . . and no, the title above should NOT read “Fish Fry.” Early one recent evening Centavo I was dining with relatives aka Pamela Esther at a local eatery. The tables Nask (“Penny”) faced the magnificent Co-owner of ocean. It was high tide; Simpatico Arts, the sky was incredible with she is a writer clouds. Rainbows and heat and an art histolightning shot through them rian, whose luck with an amazing display in these fields has before the sun finally gave given her an early up. It was impressive! We retirement. She attributes “laughter” could hardly look at our as the best posmenus. sible stimulus for When our drinks came, I life. pennynask@ was pleased that the waiter yahoo.com recognized that when I said I wanted lots of salt with my margarita, I meant it. While I was staring lovingly at my beverage, my partner squealed, “Do you see that?”

“Yes!” I replied, “Finally enough salt.”

“No . . . not the drink. Did you see the fish jump out of the water? Look there’s another one.”

I smiled, my tongue loaded with salt and tequila.

“Where?”

“Over there.”

In a fleeting look, over there became . . . everywhere. Every few seconds a good-sized fish flew out of the water from a different location. They were quick, evidently anxious to catapult above the water because of some altered state, or scientific

compulsion that could possibly mean . . . the end of the world . . . if someone panicked . . . not me.

I found myself nervously laughing at dinner. Fish are flying out of the water. So what? Just eat your tacos, Penny. “Anyone want another drink?”

A comment was made that I should have brought my fishing pole. Right. And I was thinking . . . my life jacket . . . food rations . . . matches . . . drinking water . . . call people I love . . .

Fish jump. Of course, I know that. But this . . . this was different. The fish were not together, so nothing could be chasing them. It was so random, mysterious and unbelievable to me. I was too uncomfortable about it to be nonchalant with words like “Oh yes, I’ve seen this many, many times . . . the fish, yes . . . could you pass the guacamole?”

The fish were still at it by dessert. While decisions were made for cheesecake and flan, I was reviewing survival techniques from my Girl Scout badge days.

Something was not right and the ocean fish were the first to know it.

“Check please, and make it fast.”

It is imbedded in my DNA, I guess, to go to some tragic element when viewing a natural wonder.

No . . . I’m told I do this all the time. It doesn’t matter what I’m visualizing, thinking or hearing. There is always something to be afraid of . . . and I’m going to have to mention it. Fear becomes curiosity for me and so I intended to find out why fish jump and endanger their breathing pattern. What living thing would do this? (Oh yeah . . . remember when we held our nose and mouth on a dare to see how long it would take till we needed air . . . or turned blue?)

But never mind about that.

It turns out that fish fly out of the water, simply because they can. No scientist or angler has a true answer. Fine. I’m comfortable with that . . . maybe.

14 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

People & Voices

The People & Voices of Sonora We Did It Because Nobody Said We Couldn’t!

by Naomi Black

Thus began our six-year adventure. Our first trip consisted of two retired couples and our largest trip entertained over 70 people. Clients seemed to enjoy our family approach; the kids were “grandchildren replacements” to homesick grandparents! Ben and Bethany learned traditional Folklorico dances and were junior tour guides to museums, aquariums and points of interest. Braden was just a year old when we started and he was just plain cute most of the time. And if not, we’d leave Russ to manage the group and quietly disappear to the beach!

We added Kino Bay, San Carlos and Guaymas to our itineraries. Discovering the Quartzsite RV Show, we began “hocking” our trips to snowbirds each February. We were jealous of our competitor’s glossy full-color brochures for Copper Canyon trips. One day a couple asked if we offered a Copper Canyon trip.

We looked at each other. Russ said, “Aahh . . . yes.”

We gave them vague information on price, length of trip and that it would be in October. They said, “Write that on a piece of paper and we’ll give you a deposit.”

And, we were off to Mexico’s Copper Canyon!

August found us mapping every mile on a crazy, fast trip to Los Mochis. On the train, we joined Carlos and Isaac, our tour guides for the Copper Canyon.

Two months later, we returned with a full caravan and we all fell in love with the Copper Canyon on that “trip of a lifetime.”

Those years of travel in Mexico taught us about cultures, people and histories. We discovered the majestic beauty of Mexico and a love of travel that continues to haunt us! Today, we continue to be ardent promoters of Mexico as a Grand Travel or Life Destination as we operate our promotion business, Peñasco Recreation. We hope you will enjoy our future discoveries of the People & Voices of Sonora..

PEOPL E & VOI C ES

To introduce “The People & Voices of Sonora” column, we would like to first introduce ourselves, Russ and Naomi Black.

As a child, Russ remembers his dad telling him that someday he would Russ & Naomi take him to Guaymas, Black Mexico, to go fishing. That Puerto Peñasco promise lay unfulfilled when his dad was stolen by Russ and Naomi a heart attack. Those words grew up in Phoenix, stayed in Russ’ heart.

AZ, and have been So visiting Mexico as a married for over 26 young married couple was years. Together they almost instinctive. Here we owned Peñasco brought our family to camp, RV Club and snorkel, kayak, Jet Ski, conducted RV quad and enjoy the ocean Caravan tours in and desert!

Northern Mexico Fourteen years ago, we for many years. sat at Playa de Oro RV Park in Puerto Peñasco watching the sunset. We had a nine-year-old son, a six-year-old daughter and a baby boy, Braden. That evening we pondered how we could make our trips to the beach a tax writeoff. An idea came to us. We could bring RVs to the beach.

With research we learned that RV-ers travel in “caravans.” Professional companies offered caravans to Alaska, Mexico, South America and destinations in the USA. None offered trips to Puerto Peñasco, just an hour across the border. We named our company Peñasco RV Club. Our first “Introduction to Mexico” caravan trip was launched.

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 15

People & Voices

The Gypsy Journal

by John and Rachel Pack

John & Rachel Pack After marrying eight years ago, they traveled the United States full time producing live events and DVD titles for retail, then moved to San Felipe Baja to slow down. That only lasted a couple of months. Since then they’ve dedicated their lives to sharing Baja California and Sonora with the world, and have fallen in love with so many of you that they want you to join them as they explore the wonders of Baja California Sur.

BANG! From over the stereo and underneath the coach came a loud sound that we could feel under our feet; “What the hell was that?” Rachel and I both said aloud in unison. “Now what?” is actually what we were both thinking.

Because of the never present shoulder, we had to wait until we came to a place wide enough for us to pull the RV off the road and investigate the sound. Both Rachel and I got out and looked under and around, but didn’t see anything.

We assumed it had to be something in one of the compartments that had fallen or rolled. We got back on the road again—only this time, no stereo.

I was driving deliberately slow, listening to the RV, the road or any sounds that were not normal. BANG! This time there was no music and I was focused on all sounds.

Again Rachel and I waited until we could get over, and then got out to investigate.

Photo by John Pack

Having a second tire replaced in El Cien after losing the tread on the way to La Paz from Loreto.

This time we found the problem immediately; our inside right dually had lost its tread and had managed to knock our back bumper loose as it passed beneath.

“Damn it!” Rachel and I both said aloud in stereo. “Not again?” is actually what we were both thinking.

Just 24 hours earlier we had a blowout as we ascended the mountains just 20 miles south of Loreto. We hadn’t sat for more than five minutes when a Federal Highway Patrol car pulled up. Between his zero English and my Spanglish, we determined he just wanted us to move up and out of the road, so with flashing lights from his patrol car we limped forward a few hundred yards to a wide area of the shoulder and pulled off. Then, just as we were feeling the relief of having someone to help us, he drove off leaving us there on the side of the road.

I walked to the top of the ridge to see what was beyond, only to find more of the same. At that point we decided we had to get back to where we could get help, so we turned the rig around and headed back the way we came at a staggering speed of five miles an hour. After two hours of big rigs passing us on the winding two lanes descending the mountains, we arrived back at Puerto Escondido and Tripui Resort, where we had been earlier for a meeting with Alma, the manager. We were late leaving Loreto and missed our appointment; this time she was there.

The Tripui Resort is on the right side of the road leading to Puerto Escondido, a boater’s haven and part of the Escala Nautica (Nautical Ladder). We explained the situation and apologized for missing our earlier appointment. Not only did Alma understand about missing the appointment, but she allowed us to stay the night for free.

From the road, the resort appeared to be a small store, stark RV park and an office. But once inside the property gates a whole new world opened up.

This was more than it appeared from the outside; this place had nearly 200 individual RV sites, each unique with beautifully constructed ramadas, outdoor kitchens, sun decks and nearly every one of them had large sport fishing boats. This is a fisherman’s oasis.

The llantera (tire shop) in Loreto came and changed our blown tire for our spare and

16 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

People & Voices When we arrived in La Paz, it was already getting late in the afternoon, due to time lost dealing with the tires. Rachel had put together a list of all the RV parks, their prices and amenities. We had books on all the RV parks, and even purchased a list online. But after another hour of driving from one empty RV park to the next, we came to find out, after talking with one of the former RV park operators, that as of March the last RV park in La Paz closed their doors for good. All of them were being turned into condos and resorts.

Ten miles north of La Paz in El Centanario, and the closet park to La Paz, was Maranatha RV Park.

A very nice, very clean park with a pool, playground area, private showers and buildings that resembled a hotel surrounding a large covered patio area, big enough to hold 50 people or more. On the corner of the property, near the highway, was a coffee shop called Café Exquisite that had WiFi internet. When we arrived at the RV park, the parking lot near the patio area was packed with cars and there was some sort of meeting on the patio. A couple hours later live music began and a patio of people sang for hours. At approximately 4 a.m. it all finally got quiet.

Turns out that the park is part of a Christian camp that has large events nearly every weekend and the occasional group of school kids during the week, for overnight pool parties. The property began as a landing strip many years back when the current owners’ father would fly down on missionary work.

Today it is still used for missionary work.

Fortunately, the city bus stops on the highway in front of the café and for eight pesos we were in downtown La Paz in 20 minutes. Of course, there is no drinking on the property. Not too bad considering attitude is the difference between an ordeal and an adventure.

Be sure to follow us next month as we explore more of Baja California Sur and destinations beyond . . . that is if we make it there!

PEOPL E & VOI C ES

we spent a wonderful evening at their resort. We had rescheduled our meeting with Alma for 10 a.m. the next morning. Our meeting with Alma only took about 15 minutes and Tripui Resort became a new advertiser of Mexico Living.

That was yesterday. Today we had a problem with no resort and no spare. We had just passed El Cien, about six miles back and thought it was our best bet, so we headed back the direction we came for the second time in 24 hours. El Cien was once a small village alongside Baja Highway 1 and, at some point in time, it was a working village, but today it was a nearly a ghost town. The only thing there was a dead gas station with the skeleton remains of two pumps, a small cocina (kitchen) and a llantera.

The llantera was a small shack of tin and scrap lumber. A large woman and two elderly men sat out front. Thrown about were lots of used tires in various stages of wear. It was clear that one of the men owned the shop and the other was just a buddy helping out.

We were able to find a tire to fit that actually had a good load rating and he sold it to us for 400 pesos.

Not too bad, I figured.

Neither of their jacks could raise the RV high enough to remove the tire, so they put a log from a tree on the floor jack and propped the RV up on that.

Rachel had to turn away; she just couldn’t bear to watch. He only had a single socket for his air gun that fit our lug nuts, and on the first lug nut the socket snapped in half. For the next hour we watched as these two old guys replaced our tire using long steel bars, a sledgehammer and fire—Yes, fire. For quite a while they were having difficulties getting the tire to seal off the rim and couldn’t get it inflated. Finally, he put carburetor cleaner on the side wall and inside and lit it with a match. POW! Just like that the tire was sealed.

Once again we were heading to our destination, La Paz.

                                  

                                 Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 17

Humor Tidbits Humor && Tidbits

Reader Connection R ea de r Tid bi ts

Favorite Memories – It was the summ er of 2005. July that year was very hot and humid, so we decided to go to the coast to find better weather. We went to Ensenada for the week end and found 76-degree weather: what a welcomed change from 118 and 85 percent hum idity.

It began raining heavily on our way back to San Felipe. Between Ensenada and San Felipe there is a huge wash, which, of course, was flooded. The traffic was backed up for a mile or so on both sides of the river and everyone was just waiting for the water to subside. All of the people were getting out of their cars to “discuss” the situation. We asked, “How long will it take for the water to subside?”

They responded, “Oh, just 2–3 hours .

. . long enough to have a meal.”

So, people got out their BBQ grills, coole rs, beer and boom boxes. All goodies were shared with everyone. We had a great party right by the side of the river. No one knew anyo ne at first, but in the end, we were all family . . . great fun!

Ir o n y a t it s Best the We all assume that st be e th worst, we can.

— Iron and Wine

Di ning Eti quet te

—Kristy Deegan, San Felipe

A man and a woman were having dinner in a fine restaurant. The waitress noticed that the man was slowing sliding down his chair and under the table, but the woman acted unconcerned. The waitress watched as the man slid all the way down his chair and out of sight under the table.

Still, the woman appeared calm and unruffled, apparently unaware that her companion had disappeared. The waitress went over to the table and said, “Pardon me, ma’am, but I think your husband just slid under the table.”

The woman calmly looked up and replied, “No he didn’t. He just walked in the door.”

—Unknown

EVERYONE has a funny or embarrassing story, joke, or tidbit to share with the world.

Send your jokes, tidbits and anecdotes to mexicoliving@gmail.com and put a bit of sunshine in someone’s day! All contributions may be edited for content and language.

18 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

CTover hings Feature to Do

Guadalupe Valley’s

Alternative Wine Route

by Steve Dryden

of Francisco Zarco. In addition, most visitors don’t know that this newly paved scenic country route takes you back to the Pacific coast near the village of La Mision near the famous La Fonda Resort. This route can be accessed from Highway 1 (15 miles south of Rosarito Beach) at La Mission by taking the free road to Ensenada. You’ll see the turnoff to Valle de Guadalupe on your left before you reach the village of El Tigre.

The most popular entrance to the secondary wine route is located near Km 77 on Highway 3, about 10 miles beyond the village of San Antonio de las Minas. Shortly after you cross the bridge over the dry riverbed of Guadalupe River, you’ll see on your right what looks like a small white Taco Bell tower made from adobe blocks. Turn right here (with extreme caution) and you’ll see the Pemex station that marks the entrance to Francisco Zarco and the new wine route. Follow this route for 10 miles and you’ll be able to explore 10 wineries, an interesting village, Baja California’s last mission site (ruins), three Russian museums and more.

The sleepy village of Francisco Zarco turns into a flee market and swap meet on Saturdays and Sundays, so please drive with caution, and you’ll save money and time by coming to a full stop at all four stop signs along this route. If you continue on through the valley, you’ll find the Pacific Ocean in about 25 miles. As you drive for about one mile past the Pemex station at the beginning of town, you’ll come to the first stop sign. Turn right here and drive for about 200 yards to the entrance to one of the best kept secrets in Mexico’s wine country—Viñedos Malagon or Ranch Malagon has received rave reviews from wine writers and wine lovers on both sides of the border.

This 500-acre ranch is a “hidden jewel” and is blessed with old vine Grenacne grapes that are capturing the attention of serious wine drinkers in Mexico and southern California. In addition, they feature a wine tasting room and bistro inside, and on the patio of an old Russian adobe home.

THINGS C OVER STORY TO D O

The Baja California wine country in Valle de Guadalupe is benefitting from a new highway project that is widening 12 miles of curving and winding roads extending from the coast at Highway 1 inland towards Tecate on Highway 3. Construction should be completed before this year’s wine country festivities during the month of August. The new road extends through and just beyond the village of San Antonio de las Minas, and is expected to “open the gates” for a mini-boom in the region.

One unexpected and unintended benefit of the new road is the widening of the pass that allows cool marine winds to flow freely and cool the wine country.

This excavation (wider and deeper) of canyons and ravines has allowed a more constant wind velocity and cooler temperatures in the valley. It should have a positive benefit on on grape production with cooler nights and slightly lower summer temperatures.

Although Highway 3 is the main route through the wine country, many wine lovers are unaware of the new secondary wine route that begins in the village

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 19

Photos by Steve Dryden

TChings over Fto eature Do

Bistro Malagon

The bistro features real Italian pizza, lasagna, fresh ceviche, temales and salads, all handcrafted by their Italian-Peruvian Chef Ennio. Their bed and breakfast sits directly in the center of the ranch in a peaceful and tranquil setting, complete with private cantina, dining room, fireplace, full kitchen and four deluxe rooms. Savor the wines here, because they will be some of the best you’ll taste along this wine route.

As you leave the ranch and return to the first stop sign, turn right onto the paved road. Just past the second stop sign, from 100 yards to eight miles, you’ll discover nine more wineries along the way on both sides of the road. Up the road from the second stop for one half of a mile are two interesting Russian museums, one private and one government funded.

Another half a mile beyond lies Vinos Fuentes Winery. This winery is the “new kid on the block” and is the third winery on the Wine Route through Francisco Zarco. It is located just past the Km. 1 marker on the left and just before the entrance to Monte Xanic winery on the right. The theme here is all about family with a children’s play area and family picnic section. Hours of operation are Thursday through Sunday from 10 a.m. until dusk. Tasting fees are $3 per person—refundable towards any wine purchase. Appointments: (646) 155-2044 or 1717070, or vinosfuentes@hotmail.com.

Their winery facility, boutique gift shop and restaurant are located in a 8,250 square-foot building on a beautiful and natural farm setting. Miguel Fuentes currently creates small quantities of wine to include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon/ Grenache blend, 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon/Grenache, 2007 Merlot and 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Vinos Fuentes wines are a Baja California “super value” at US$10 to $15 per bottle with additional case discounts. This is the perfect winery for families with kids! They have a children’s play area, BBQ area and in the near future will feature a family restaurant. Great local hospitality is ALWAYS found here!

The entrance to Monte Xanic winery is down the road on the right side about 200 yards. This winery should be visited and their wines sampled, especially if you like premium, high-quality wine. The tasting room is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and weekends from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monte Xanic winery started the “revolution” in creating premium boutique wines in Mexico. They have a nice selection of white and red wines, offering samples of four whites for $4, samples of four reds for $5 or tastes of all eight wines for $8. All these wines are good!

The vineyards of Monte Xanic are cultivated with many varieties of grapes to include Cabernet

20 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

CTover hings Feature to Do

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 21

Photos by Steve Dryden

THINGS C OVER STORY TO D O

Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Two other wineries are located beyond Bibayoff Verdot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and winery. Pau Pijoun has an artisan winery with great Sauvignon Blanc. They have three labels, all three of wines located two miles past Bibayoff on the left side, which provide for good wine. Their Colombard/Chenin up a hill on a dirt road. Viñas Pijoan is now marketing Blanc blend is a favorite and they make a fantastic four wines, one white and three reds, all named after Malbec and Syrah. The top of the line in their wine his family members. 2008 Silvana is a remarkable, portfolio is their Gran Ricardo Reserve, usually a blend aromatic and refreshing blend of 50% Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged in new French 35% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Viognier, and 5% Muscat, oak for about 24 months. This is a good spot for a made in stainless steel tanks with no oak barrel picnic at a table next to the pond with vineyard views. aging. 2008 Paulinha is a nice blend of 50% Merlot, Chateau Camou, Adobe Guadalupe Inn/Winery, 44%, and 6% Petite Sirah, aged in an oak barrel for and Baron Balch’e wineries can be found along four months, 3,427 bottles produced. 2007 Leonora the route as you continue your journey through the is a magical blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, region. You’ll eventually arrive in the village of El 42% Merlot, smooth and well-balanced, aged in Porvenir. Continue on for another four miles until oak barrels for 12 months, 6,192 bottles produced. you reach the popular Bibayoff Winery and Russian 2006 Domenica is my favorite blend of Pau’s with Museum. It was a colony of Russian farmers who 75% Grenache, 15% Petite Sirah and 10% Cabernet developed the first large commercial vineyards in Sauvignon, aged in oak barrels.

In addition to this regular production, Pau the valley. Today, a few descendants of the original Russian (Molokan) families continue to grow grapes is experimenting with three new wines. “Red and make wine. David and Abel Bibayoff cultivate Convertible” is an amazing combination of Ruby about 80 acres of table and wine grapes for their Cabernet, Barbera, and Colombard. He’s also working winery, often selling grapes to other wineries in on a long-term project involving the production of two the area. Visit their rural farm to experience warm promising ports, 2007 and 2008 with two different hospitality and discover Baja California’s forgotten blends of Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Petite Sirah.

Next time you decide to explore the magical Valle history from one of the region’s original grapede Guadalupe, try a visit to the remote wineries lined growing families.

Their tasting room and museum are open on along the secondary wine route. This side of the Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. The valley is more peaceful, relaxed and less crowded. So facility is available for special events, weddings, tent far, it hasn’t been exploited by the charter bus tours, or RV camping, and hiking. Their Russian Molokan so it’s possible to get personal attention, and you’ll museum explains the history and migration of this enjoy intimate conversation with the families and group who left Europe in search of religious freedom winemakers. and to form an agricultural-based community. Today they make a Colombard/Chenin Wine tasting inside an old, original Russian Molokan house.

Blanc white wine that is excellent.

Their Cabernet Sauvignon/Zinfandel is a good, aged, red blend, as is their Cabernet/Zinfandel. David makes a dry Muscat Canelli and has a nice Nebbiolo that they don’t pour, but is available for purchase.

Located on the Zarco - El Tigre wine route about eight miles from the junction at the village of Francisco Zarco and Highway 3. If you are looking for a quiet country ranch with unsurpassed hospitality, visit this historical and wonderful family. Call first: (646) 179-4589 or 124-5995.

Things to See

Discover Baja’s High Country

by Benjamin Eugene Those who picture Baja California as an unrelieved desert would be surprised to discover the highest part of the backbone of the peninsula is covered by conifer forests, with winter snows and flowered meadows in the summer.

This is the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir, a mountain chain that runs north-south along the middle part of the northwestern Mexican state of Baja California, with its name Spanish for “mountains of Saint Peter the Martyr.” The highest point is Cerro de la Encantada, 3,096 meters (10,158 feet). Also known as Picacho del Diablo (Devil’s Peak), this is the highest point in the state of Baja California, as well as the entire Baja California Peninsula, and a popular expert rock climbing and rappelling destination.

The Sierra San Pedro Mártir is a sky island of rugged forested ridges and broad meadows, standing high above the coastal slopes to the west and dropping sharply to the San Felipe desert on the east.

The Sierra de San Pedro Mártir is a good example of a “sky island” because the species that inhabit this mountain range have been separated from related creatures that live in adjacent high-elevation areas by their inability to cross the hotter, drier low-elevation deserts. This physical isolation has permitted genetic drifts among several local plant and animal populations, producing variations found only in the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir.

Probably the best example is the Nelson’s rainbow trout, a species tolerant of warm water and native to a few permanent pools and west flowing streams. Others animals include 20 subspecies of birds, and 5 species and 8 subspecies of mammals. Beyond these are the more familiar animals such as bighorn sheep, mule deer, cougars and many smaller species.

The Sierra de San Pedro Mártir became a national park in 1947, and work is now underway for it to be designated as part of the International Biosphere Preserve, a most worthy distinction for this unique place.

Its geological history is closely related to the events that were responsible for the formation of the other peninsular range complexes to the north, including the Sierra Juárez of Baja California, the Cuyamaca and Laguna mountains of San Diego County, and the San Jacinto mountains of Riverside County.

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Photo by Jaime Sanchez Diaz

Devil’s Peak in Sierra San Pedro Mártir, Baja California, Mexico.

Highest point in Baja, measuring 3,078 meters, as seen from the Mexican National Astronomical Observatory.

A c t i v i t i e s : Expeditions, walking, mountaineering, mountain biking, horse riding, camping, flora and fauna watching, as well as sky watching.

A unique experience is walking to the viewpoint at El Altar, at over 8,000 feet, you can see both the Pacific Ocean and Facing westward (Pacific Ocean) from Sierra San Pedro Martir, Baja California, Mexico. Sea of Cortez at the same time, or visiting The climate is similar to that of mountains of the Misión de San Pedro Mártir de Verona (17941824) by horse ride for two and a half days with the southern California, with the main precipitation help of a guide. coming from winter storms, and occasional summer

monsoon storms.

This natural area, which is also home to the National Astronomy Observatory of the Autonomus University of Mexico (Longitude: 115° 27´49; West Latitude: 31° 02´39 North), built in 1971 on a neighboring peak from Picacho del Diablo, and is home to Mexico’s largest optical telescope, with a diameter of 2.12 meters, and a weight of 40 tons in total.

The National Observatory is located on a 9,000foot ridge overlooking the San Felipe Desert thousands of feet below. The facility consists of a world-class 82-inch reflecting telescope, along with several smaller units. Astronomers from around the world come here to take advantage of the excellent conditions where light and atmospheric pollution is minimal.

At the top of the range are ranches and beautiful isolated campsites surrounded by giant old growth, Jeffrey and lodgepole pines, and extensive groves of quaking aspens with hiking trails leading to Blue Bottle, a 2,900-meter (9,500-foot) rise, and Picacho del Diablo.

Classification: National Park since 1947; priority area.

Location: Located in Sierra de San Pedro Mártir mountains in the center of Baja California.

Surface: 65,000 hectares/160,550 acres Weather: Extreme mediterranean climate, with dry and hot summers, and rainy winters, snowing during cold periods of winter.

Vegetation: Pine, fir, cypress and poplar forests.

Wildlife: Ram, cougar, black tail deer, mountain lion, royal eagle, owl, raccoon, coyotes, among others.

Access: Departing from Ensenada by the transpeninsular road Highway 1 at Km 243 (Km 140 section Ensenada-San Quintín) in San Telmo de Abajo, take the small road to the east (there is a signal), keep going 47 miles and you’ll arrive at the National Park entry.

TH I NGS TO SEE

Photo by Jaime Sanchez Diaz

Things to See

Further information: Request a Baja California National Parks guide in the tourism office of your locality.

Resources: San Diego Natural History Museum, Wikipedia, Discover Baja California, Baja State Secretary of Tourism.

Photo by Jaime Sanchez Diaz

San Felipe and the Sea of Cortez (Gulf of California), as seen from top of the summit where the 2.12 meter telescope rests in Sierra San Pedro Martir, Baja California, Mexico. by Jaime Sanchez Diaz

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Things to Do

First Annual 2009 Vendimia Golf Open

by Carlos Durán AMPI Rosarito, Provino and the Baja Scholarship Foundation (BSF) are looking for at least 140 golf enthusiasts to participate in the First Annual 2009 Vendimia Golf Open. The event is being organized by AMPI Rosarito and the BSF. August 14 from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., Bajamar Golf Resort will host players that could split US$10,000 in prizes. The first through fifth place teams will earn the grand prize as well as other prizes for smaller contests during the day. The hole-in-one prize is a Hummer H3.

Teams will be comprised of two, and play as a group of four. Wine tasting, appetizers and snacks will be served at points along the route.

Shotgun Tourney: $125 per player.

Mini golf and golf instruction: $55 per person.

There will be fine cuisine and awards starting at 3:30 p.m. followed by live music and an auction to raise funds for the Baja Scholarship Fund.

For people who are not golfers, they will have a demonstration and golf instruction by a Bajamar pro, shooting in the area of practice, ending in a mini golf tournament. This event will take place at the same time as the golf tournament.

When: August 14, 2009 Where: Bajamar Golf Club in Ensenada, Km. 77 Rosarito-Ensenada toll road Time: 10 a.m., 8 a.m. golfer registration More Info: US (888) 311-6076, MX (800) 025-4075

Sponsors: Bajamar Resort, Colectivo de Ensenada y Asociación de Vinicultores de Baja California Provino, AMPI, and the Baja Scholarship Foundation, a non-profit U.S. Corporation.

The Baja Scholarship Foundation is a non-profit corporation devoted to educating high-achieving Mexican students who are at risk for leaving school for economic reasons. The non-profit supports 38 students, ranging from early primary grades to a recent medical school graduate who is currently performing her residency in Tijuana.

They help provide clothing and household goods to the families of our students and pay for English classes for our students to benefit them in their future employment opportunities. The BSF also maintains a food pantry for emergencies and acute needs, fulfilling our belief that students who are hungry cannot perform well.

Scholarship recipients sign a “contract” agreeing to maintain an 8.0 (B) scholastic average. The BSF does not use any money donated for administrative or other costs.

All operating supplies are paid for by the Board of Directors themselves. There is no paid staff.

Their aim is to encourage students to look forward to a future as a professional in their own country, which sets an example that giving back to one’s community brings great rewards.

For further information and to contribute, please call Judie Kesson at (661) 613-2359.

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Places to Eat

Explore the Culinary Delights

of Pacific Baja and the Sea of Cortez Uncovering hidden restaurants and truly superior food is one of the most enjoyable aspects of traveling in Pacific Baja and along the coast of the Sea of Cortez.

When it comes to dining, the opportunities are as rich and varied as the towns and villages themselves—each with a unique flavor and specialty.

When the conquistadores arrived in Mexico in 1492, they found that the diet of the people consisted largely of corn-based dishes with chiles and herbs, occasionally complemented with beans and tomatoes; and many such staples are still enjoyed today, like tamales and tortillas.

The conquistadores, like many of you culinary explorers, wanted more and eventually integrated their European ingredients of rice, beef, pork, chicken, wine and garlic with the native indigenous foods of the time, including chocolate, maize, huitlacoche, tomatoes, chile peppers, beans, squash, etc., to shape the gastronomic delights of Mexico.

Today, Mexico is one of the world’s top food destinations, known for its blend of local ingredients and experimental flavors, and Baja and Sonora may be the best example, with a strong influence from the southwestern United States, and a cross section of the entire country—from corn-fed beef and flour tortillas of the north, seafood of the Gulf Coast to the rich molés, spices and stuffed chiles rellenos of the Pueblo region.

Everything is available, from fine dining to street vendors selling tacos or the Americana especial—the hotdog. Our featured restaurants serve mouthwatering

national and International specialties, from traditional Mexican, and the world’s best seafood, to cuisine such as American, French, Italian, and sumptuous steaks, or whatever is needed to curb your cravings.

This month we’re going to whet your appetite and give you a “taste” of what’s available in this region of the world. The craft, elegance and sheer diversity of the dining options will please anyone on any occasion.

You can unwind with your favorite drink on the deck overlooking the Sea of Cortez or indulge in a culinary adventure and a feast for your senses— where the local flavor and environment come together in perfect harmony. From elegant dining to a casual beachfront bistro, you can enjoy each savory bite of elegant fare in a relaxing atmosphere.

Enjoy a memorable evening under the stars, or allow them to cater to you in genuine Mexican style; savor the sunset while indulging in a true gourmet’s delight; and discover culinary masterpieces in a magnificent setting with distinctive service and ambiance.

When it comes to dining in Mexico, restaurants are everywhere. Dining out is often a true highlight of the day and it is possible to sample many of the country’s finest dishes, with many of the best dining venues being surprisingly inexpensive.

Along the way, you are likely to sample offerings that range from acceptable to outstanding (but very rarely anything less). In general, restaurants are quite good and very reasonably priced.

Join us, and a couple of our friends, and savor the fresh flavor as we explore the culinary delights of Pacific Baja and the Sea of Cortez.

PL AC ES TO EAT

by Stockton Hill and Lucy E. Jackson

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Places to Eat

El Rey Sol

Ensnenada

Gourmet Cuisine and Premium Wine in Ensenada by Steve Dryden Jean-Loup Bitterlin is a dynamic community leader and owner of El Rey Sol, one of the best restaurants in Mexico. This renowned family operation began on May 23, 1947, when Jean-Loup’s mother, Virginia Geffroy was invited to open a 10-table cafe at a relative’s motel in downtown Ensenada. After her passing in 1989, Jean-Loup continued the operation, expanding the seating for 240 persons, with a focus on unsurpassed table service. His call for excellence has resulted in Five Star Diamond Awards from the American Academy of Hospitality for seven years in a row, 2003 through 2009.

The quality of the cuisine at El Rey Sol is consistent and speaks for itself. Try exploring some of these popular meals and discover a wine list with over 120 selections of Baja California wines. My favorite dinner is their boneless chicken breast prepared in a sauce of brandy, port wine, prunes and cream.

Or, when with a “special friend,” you can’t beat the

Chateaubriand, beef tenderloin (for two) sliced table side, served with roasted tomato and topped with melted cheese. Another popular meal is a shellfish delight from Pepita’s original recipe called Medallion Doña Pepita, fresh shrimp with bacon belts, topped with sauce of capers and white wine.

Chef Juan Jose Lozano prepares soups daily, as well as creating three weekly specials to add diversity to the regular menu. Sommelier and dinning room manager, Gregario Rochin can help you match some of Mexico’s best wine with these culinary delights from El Rey Sol. Each evening Gregario guides his “wine tasting cart” between the tables, offering lucky guests free samples of local premium wine. Open all year from 7:30 a.m. until 10 p.m., with the breakfast menu from 7:30 a. m. until noon, followed by a lunch to closing menu. Visit them at Av. Lopez Mateos 1000. Phone: (646) 178-1733.

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Places to Eat San Felipe

Rabbit Pizza Delivers on a Perfect Pie I find delicious, is the sesame seeds they sprinkle around the crust and bake in to perfection.

Rabbit Pizza is located on Chetumal, below the traffic circle on the left as you’re heading toward the Malecon. They have a few tables outside, although I don’t think the tables are large enough for the “grande.” No worries, if you’d rather stay home, they deliver to most of San Felipe, and they do it quickly— sorry no “30 minutes or less, or it’s free.” However, they don’t need it. In no time at all your pizza will arrive hot and delicious. I’m guessing “Rabbit” refers to how quickly you get it.

When ordering by phone, I suggest you have the order ready and know a little Spanish. Of course, you can do as I do and drop in say “hola” and point to your favorite on the menu.

If you like pizza, you’ve got to have a Rabbit!

PL AC ES TO EAT

Doesn’t matter which city or country you’re in, there is likely to be a pizza parlor, pizza delivery or at the very least frozen pizza you can take and bake yourself. San Felipe is no different; there are least four different pizza choices. But of them all, one stands out—Rabbit Pizza.

When I first saw Rabbit Pizza, I thought, “now that’s interesting, a pizza made with rabbit.” As it turns out there was no rabbit on the menu, but rather many of the usual favorites, like combinations, pepperoni, vegetarian, etc. They also offer six specialty pizzas and just about every topping you’d need to create a masterpiece of your own.

Rabbit Pizza is not only known for their great tasting pizza, but also the variety of sizes, including the grande, which will feed an army. It is about three feet in diameter and available with any toppings you desire. The other unique thing about their pizza, that

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Places to Eat San Felipe

Rosita’s is More than Just A San Felipe Favorite International Rosita Restaurant is a familyowned waterfront Restaurant located in downtown San Felipe at the north end of the Malecón, directly across from the beach. The great location is also why Rosita’s is a favorite hangout during spring break and Semana Santa (Easter week). However, anytime of the year is a good time at Rosita’s and people can enjoy a great meal, whether on the covered sidewalk tables or in the cool air-conditioned dining room.

If you’re wanting something more than just a tasty meal, Rosita Restaurant features a large banquet facility and affordable on and off premises catering for receptions, rehearsal dinners, family reunions, class reunions, company parties or any other seasonal events. For their Net-savvy clientele, they’ve added Wi-Fi service and a computer terminal.

You’ll find a fun and friendly atmosphere all year round, and always the freshest seafood and authentic

Mexican dishes, with handmade tortillas. Their fish is so fresh that it was in the sea, earlier the same day.

And if you’re into shrimp like Bubba or Forest, you’ll love Rosita’s shrimp selection. You can have shrimp with garlic, breaded shrimp, barbeque shrimp, shrimp in mole, shrimp tamales, coconut shrimp, cilantro shrimp, shrimp cocktail, shrimp ceviche, veracruz shrimp, plus shrimp tacos, burritos, fajitas, soups and, I’m willing to bet, they’ll sell it to you on ice to take home.

If you’re planning a party, a nice dinner or just want to have a great place to eat, hangout and enjoy the sights and sounds of San Felipe, there’s no better place than Rosita’s Restaurant. They’re open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and anytime of the day, they offer great food, fair prices and a welcoming smile.

Stop by or call them today at 577-1903.

hospitality - CoMfort - Good food & Good serviCe These are the traditions of the most popular family owned restaurant in San Felipe

686-577-1903 - Mar de Cortez at the end of “el MaleCon”

10% off Breakfast

We Welcome Visa & Mastercard:

Present this ad when you order - Expires 31 Oct. 2009

FREE WIFI - FREE WIFI - FREE WIFI- FREE WIFI - FREE WIFI

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We Welcome Visa & Mastercard:

Places to Eat

Los Arcos and the Happy Jackass

San Felipe

Dishing It Up Right!

fresh pizzas round out the menu.

The Happy Jackass, the bar attached to the restaurant, keeps things lively by offering Karaoke and various live music other nights of the week; it also hosts the semimonthly San Felipe Lions Club meetings. “Having activities for the patrons helps both the bar and the restaurant during slow times,” says Cliff.

The lounge has satellite TV on four big screens and features all the sports you could want, including four different NFL games every Sunday. NASCAR is always on one of the screens. The staff is pleasant, the atmosphere is relaxing, the prices are moderate and the portions are very generous. All in all, you will enjoy your dining experience at Los Arcos Restaurant and Lounge.

Stop by Los Arcos Restaurant and The Happy Jackass and say hello to Cliff and Sue. You can’t miss them, they’re on the right as you enter San Felipe. Tell them you saw them in Mexico Living!

PL AC ES TO EAT

For the last five years, Restaurant Los Arcos and the Happy Jackass Lounge have been a family-oriented dining establishment specializing in American and Italian cuisine. Owners Cliff and Sue White have been in this location on the south side of the arches entering San Felipe for three years. Both Cliff and Sue are longtime residents of San Felipe, Sue for more than 25 years, and have extensive experience in the restaurant business.

Over the last year, they’ve been making some big changes; they’ve changed their menu, decor, prices, staff and much more. What hasn’t changed is the full-service bar and the coldest beer in town.

The menu features great burgers, chicken and dumplings, chicken-fried steak, homemade fries, and, if you’re a steak lover, Angus beef from the U.S. Local fish and shrimp dishes are featured as specials. The Italian cuisine includes an All-You-Can-Eat Spaghetti dinner, plus calzones, fettuccini alfredo and a new concoction called Italian puffs, and, of course, their

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Places to Eat

The Lighthouse Restaurant

San Felipe

A Shining Example of Fine Dining In just three years, Tim and Mari Outzen have become an integral part of the San Felipe community and owners of a San Felipe landmark restaurant, The Lighthouse Restaurant and Lounge.

Located directly across the street for the real iconic beacon, and a shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe, The Lighthouse House Restaurant sits atop the cliffs overlooking downtown San Felipe and the Malecon. From their south-facing patio you can watch a brilliant Baja sunset fall slowly below the Sierra San Pedro MartĂ­r mountains, while sipping a margarita. There is no better view of downtown San Felipe.

That alone is not what makes this restaurant great, but rather accents the unique ambiance and beautiful decor that uses soft desert tones and contrasting bright Mexican colors throughout. The decor reflects the old soul and the new idea, seeking the crossroad where primitive and modern meet in simplicity. You can dress up and feel comfortable, or dress down and feel right at home.

The location and ambiance are stunning, but the food is

what will round off a perfect dining experience. The menu offers amazing shrimp dishes, directly from the sea, and International favorites like Sushi and Italian. And for the standard fare with a flare, they have Philly Cheesesteaks, juicy American-style hamburgers, steaks and prime rib, and, of course, authentic Mexican cuisine.

In addition to the restaurant, the Lighthouse Lounge is fast becoming a favorite for locals and tourists alike, and was voted Best Happy Hour 2008 by Mexico Living readers. The Lighthouse offers ice cold beer, not just from one brewery, but several; giving you a greater selection of Mexican cervesa, and a huge selection of spirits from their full bar.

The Lighthouse has great live entertainment throughout the week, WiFi for working or browsing, and gift certificates, which are great for any special occasion.

Give them call at (686) 577-2540, or visit www. sanfelipelighthouselounge.com for specials and their updated entertainment calendar.

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Places to Eat

La Vaquita

San Felipe

San Felipe’s Succulent Seafood Restaurant the seven seas) combines fish, shrimp, octopus, squid, clams, crab and scallops into a delightful broth. For a main course, try the house specialty, Halibut covered with a light cheese and stuffed with shrimp and squid.

La Vaquita offers an expansive dining area, with a full bar and a great selection of wine, and on the weekends they have live music from various local musicians. If your palate craves a different taste sensation than seafood, their chicken Caesar salad is exquisite. This is a fine seafood restaurant with fantastic food. Their prices may be a little more expensive than other restaurants in the area, but the food is delicious and worth every peso.

You can find La Vaquita Restaurant just off the Malecón on the corner of Mar de Cortez and Puerto Penasco, next to Licores San Felipe.

PL AC ES TO EAT

Whether its fish, shrimp, squid, clams or a fresh salad, you’ll find a tasty selection of “right out of the sea” offerings. The owners Ana and Chema have done an amazing job with La Vaquita Restaurant, since they opened in 2006. They’ve done a remarkable job of transforming their restaurant into an inviting, comfortable and delicious dining establishment.

Fully remodeled and expanded, with new covered patio seating, and a new menu. La Vaquita offers some of the best seafood in San Felipe, voted Best of 2007 in the Mexico Living readers poll. La Vaquita offers either open-air patio seating or you may dine inside.

The menu offers a wide variety, from starters like fresh steamed clams, or shrimp cocktail, to one of the favorites, such as a shrimp platter with the shrimp swimming in a secret-recipe cherry sauce; or for the adventurous palate, Caldo de Siete Mares (soup of

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Places to Eat San Felipe

Sea of Cortez Salt Although this is not a restaurant, you’re likely to find this product throughout San Felipe and in northern Baja on the table of many of your favorite restaurants—allnatural Sea of Cortez Salt.

The salt is harvested directly from the warm waters in the protected areas of the Sea of Cortez and the Colorado River Delta. Sea of Cortez Salt delivers gourmet sea salt in its simplest form, pure and natural.

It’s for this reason that the flavor is a “must have” for any kitchen.

In 1974 portions of the upper Sea of Cortez became an environmentally protected area. In 1993 UNESCO designated over 3 million acres of the upper Sea of Cortez and the Colorado River Delta as a Biosphere Reserve. This area has since been extended southerly to include San Felipe Bay and is under the protection of the Mexican Federal Government.

Evaporation ponds within this protected region produce an exquisite salt, pure and clean with a special sunny flavor. No chemicals, drying or anti-caking agents are used; just naturally produced solar sea salt.

In fact, Sea of Cortez Sea Salt is 83 percent sodium chloride (compared to regular table salt at 99 percent), which means the salt is 17 percent rich in essential trace minerals.

Packaged in elegant Mexican ceramic “pinch” dishes and handmade glass azure-blue bottles with handpainted labels and adjustable grinders on top, Sea of Cortez Salt’s are beautifully presented—a perfect gift or a special treat for yourself.

Add the amazing fresh flavors of Mexican roasted garlic, chipotle chile and cacao, black peppercorns, or the “HOT” new flavor, chiltepîn . . . you’ll be hooked.

Whether for a margarita rimmed in their All-Natural Margarita Sea Salt or you need just the right seasoning for the catch of the day, you’re going to love this salt.

Now that we’ve pointed the salt out, you’ll begin seeing it everywhere. But, if you can’t wait, you can contact Sea of Cortez Salt at (686) 209-0074, or visit them at the Plazita on Mar de Cortez in downtown San Felipe.

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Places to Eat

Pavilion Restaurant

San Felipe

The Pavilion Restaurant is the choice for fine dining in San Felipe. They offer exceptional service, great food and a large open dining room with amazing views of the golf course, sea and mountains from every window.

Located in the Pavilion of the Las Caras de Mexico Golf Course at La Ventana del Mar, the Pavilion currently serves a number of purposes including offering golf course services. But, if you’re after a great meal at a good price, the Pavilion Restaurant will provide a level of cuisine not found elsewhere in the area. Manager Cesar Quirarte says, “At the Pavilion, everyone is family.”

They have great dishes, like Filet Mignon, or Churrasco (Argentinian Beef), but the Half Rack of Lamb with Fig and Apricot Glaze is their house specialty. Of course, they offer a wide selection of seafood, like fish or shrimp, and all the traditional Mexican dishes like Fajitas, Enchiladas and Chile Rellenos, Carne Asada Tampiquena, and the favorite Mexican Combo— Enchilada, Chile Relleno, Beef Taco.

In recent months, the Pavilion has changed management and menu, so if you haven’t been there in a while, you haven’t been there.

PL AC ES TO EAT

Fine Dining at its Best in San Felipe

Puerto Peñasco

La Casa del Capitan Dreams Do Come True

La Casa del Capitan is one place that everyone should visit—for so many reasons. From the wonderful foods to the breathtaking views, this place is what dreams are made of.

It all began as a dream for the Garcia family and on July 1, 1990, they placed their first stone. It wasn´t easy to build on top of a rock; it took them three long years to see their dream come true. Destiny brought them to Puerto Peñasco, and when they saw the beauty of this place, they decided to buy the land now known as La Casa del Capitan.

With over 22 years of experience in the restaurant business, they gave it the authentic flavor of Mexican dishes, as well as amazing steaks and seafood, and great drinks and appetizers.

La Casa del Capitan offers one of the most romantic settings, high on the cliffs above Old Port. It has a nice candlelit ambiance and a nautical decor with music to complement the fantastic views from the outdoor terrace.

On a warm evening, it provides a breezy and cool place to enjoy a sunset margarita as you gaze across the bay to the lights of the Sandy Beach resorts.

The Garcia family invites you to be a part of their dream. After all, they built it, not only thinking of you as a guest, but as a friend.

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Places to Eat Puerto Peñasco

La Cocina de Ramón You just have to venture beyond the heart of town in Puerto Peñasco to La Cocina de Ramón to find some of the best food at great prices! Ramón Ramos was the chief cook at the much-enjoyed Old Port Galley; but when that restaurant closed, he and his wife Lupita Urias decided to open their own restaurant.

For the fish lover, they offer an all-you-can-eat fish and salad for only 90 pesos. With that price and my appetite, it’s hard to go wrong. The menu includes a whole fried fish, garlic fish, breaded fish, steamed fish, fish Veracruz . . . I think you get the picture.

The meat dishes are just as impressive including filet mignon, T-bone steaks and steak tampiqueña, all served with soup or salad. The selection of chicken and, of course, Mexican dishes are just as extensive and cover just about any flavor you desire.

If you’re looking for a way to start your day, Ramón has one of the best breakfast menus available with all the favorites like bacon and eggs to Nopales

con huevo y chilaquiles con pollo, a prickly pear with eggs and chicken chilaquiles.

La Cocina de Ramón has an equally impressive lunch and dinner menu with cocktails of shrimp, scallops, or clams, or ceviche in either shrimp or fish. The soups and salads cover the gamet of flavors from shrimp, clam or tortilla soups to fresh garden, tuna, chicken or taco salads.

Aguas frescas or selections from the full bar are available, as is dessert, which deserves special mention. Desserts range from apple pie to Tiramisu, and Lupita and Ramón are also well known for their wedding cakes.

La Cocina de Ramón is open from 8 a.m. until 9 p.m. except Tuesdays. From Blvd. Benito Juárez, turn east onto Calle Simón Morua. Proceed four streets past Ace Hardware and turn right; you will see La Cocina de Ramón as you make the turn. ¡Buen provecho!

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Places to Eat

Portofino

Puerto Peñasco

Fine Dining, Italian Style! with lemon honey; or the Pesce alla Porto Fino, shrimp flambéed in Cognac and tomato cream sauce.

They offer a wide variety of meat and chicken dishes, which cover the gamet. A light favorite would be the Filetto Porto Fino, which is a beef fillet with avocado, or for the big appetite they have the Filetto Terramare, a fillet cooked to perfection and smothered with shrimp and cream. Chicken lovers will enjoy a breast with shrimp and cheese, or the Pollo Marala, with mushrooms in a sweet wine sauce.

Looking for pizza or pasta? You’ve come to the right place. Portofino offers some of the best in Puerto Peñasco. They also serve a great selection of soups, salads and delightful desserts.

Each Thursday Portofino has an Italian buffet from 1–5 p.m. The prices are reasonable and the service is top notch. They are located at 1 de Junio and Malecon Kino at Old Port in Puerto Peñasco, and can be reached at 383-6838.

PL AC ES TO EAT

There is something to be said for being able to sit next to the marina, feeling the cool air blowing through the open-air dining area, enjoying the relaxing mood, a great Italian meal and acoustic music, while watching the marina traffic come and go under a starlit night.

Portofino has a complete Italian menu of pizza, pasta, salad, beef, and, of course, seafood, plus a wonderful selection of wines; but if wine is not your thing, they also have a complete bar.

The best way to start your meal is with an appetizer, and Portofino has plenty to choose from, including shrimp cocktail, clams sautéed in garlic and Carpaccio de Salmone, a smoked salmon sautéed with spices and lemon.

If the sea and marina put you in the mood for seafood, try the Pesce Venecia, fish with lemon and white wine; or the Gamberi Agrodolce, a delectable shrimp, skewered with pineapple and caramelized

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Places to Eat Loreto

Loreto Islas

The Real Art of Gourmet Dining in Loreto Loreto Islas is aptly named; a seaside restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows that face east onto the Malecón, the Sea of Cortez and Isla del Carmen.

From outside, Islas shines as bright as the lighthouse that can be seen just down the street.

Inside, the same bright bold orange and red colors continue throughout, with the exception of the windows and the deep blues of the sea fading upward towards the soft blue sky—all of which make for a beautiful and inviting dining room.

Chef Francisco Drew Murillo is the master of the menu and, like the art on the walls, he too creates masterpieces, from his amazing sauces to his signature dish—Pescado Menier, which is similar to a paella with a healthy portion of scallops, fish, clams, broccoli and cauliflower mixed in with rice and his menier sauce.

Chef Francisco is considered by many to be the the best in Loreto. He has been producing fine dining for 27 years in many of the best restaurants and hotels in

Los Cabos, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta and La Paz. Loreto Islas’ menu is simple, made with the freshest produce and ranch-fresh eggs and chicken.

Islas also serves the freshest seafood available, caught and prepared the same day.

You can start your day with their signature Huevos Rancheros for breakfast, have fresh seafood tacos or special burgers for lunch, and finish the day with dinner from a wide variety of the daily catch to a tender steak, along with a cold cervesa, cocktail or bottle from an impressive selection of wines from Mexico, Argentina and California. Finish it off with a daily choice of Chef Francisco’s fresh flan or freshly baked cheesecake.

Loreto Islas is a must for anyone who wants an elegant dining experience. And, the best part is their prices don’t reflect their quality or location; an average entree is only $8–$10.

See you at Islas!

36 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

La Picazon

Places to Eat

Loreto

An island paradise unto itself, La Picazon in Loreto, Baja California Sur, is unlike any other restaurant. It’s not just the incredible food that makes it special, the amazing hospitality, the beautiful decor, the best view anywhere, or the fact that the Sea of Cortez is only feet from the stunning open-air dining room under a giant palapa, because La Picazon is all of this and more.

La Picazon is six miles north of Loreto, along a winding, graded dirt and gravel road with incredible vistas of the sea, across washes and creek beds, that become raging rivers during hurricane season, isolating La Picazon from town and making it only accessible by boat.

A four-year project of the warm and friendly Igartua family, La Picazon to them is more than a restaurant, it’s their home and their own paradise that they graciously share with their customers. Gourmet seafood and Mexican cuisine at a reasonable price and an unforgettable experience.

No visit to Loreto is complete without visiting the Igartua family and La Picazon. You can contact them at (613) 109-9029.

Americano’s Cheesesteak Grill

La PAZ

PL AC ES TO EAT

Dining in Paradise!

Serving Up Some of Your Favorite “Guilty Pleasures” Two things you’ll discover when living in Mexico: Mexican food here is generally better than Mexican food elsewhere, and the reverse is also generally true.

However, Americano’s Cheesesteak Grill defies this with real American-style sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. In a land where hot dogs are plentiful, yet chili dogs are unknown, it’s a refreshing break from tortilla-based food.

The grilled cheesesteaks are the closest thing to a true Philly cheesesteak this side of the Appalachians, while the spicy chili dogs take you back to the State Fair. Enjoy some sinful chili cheese fries or picante chicken wings, then cool off with a root beer float or ice cream pie. And, the real star, “Mom’s Apple Pie,” with a crispy crumb topping, is as good as it gets.

Visit the owners, John and Carmina Ashman, as they serve up these guilty pleasures, Tuesday– Saturday, 8 a.m.–6 p.m., at 150 Nicolas Bravo in La Paz. Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 37

Places to Stay

Cholla Bay’s Best Kept Secret

by Benjamin Eugene cheery, beautifully decorated in local style of bright Mexican colors, very clean, with lots of room . . . essentially your own apartment with a huge deck overlooking the bay and a view that will blow you away. In the morning the sunrise over the bay is gorgeous.

Casa Mónica is a lovely home owned by a local American real estate agent, Gretchen Ellinger. She has owned and operated Casa Mónica for the past seven years. Casa Mónica is Gretchen’s dream come true, and it shows. She is a wonderful source of information, a great cook, hospitable host and has one of the best houses in the area.

Gretchen is a fine host and makes her guests feel like house guests rather than customers. It’s a very warm and friendly environment. Meeting the owner is like meeting a longtime dear friend.

What is a bed and breakfast without breakfast? The breakfasts at Casa Mónica are fantastic. Casa Mónica is well known for extraordinary breakfasts; delicious, creative and healthy. Breakfast is prepared and served in the dining room of the main home, leaving visitors free of the clatter and clutter of preparation. Guests are wowed by the table settings, which are creative, memorable and different each day.

Photo by Rachel Pack

If you’re looking for a place to stay in Puerto Peñasco and want something unique and special— something better than a 4 Star Resort, but rather a place that feels like home—accomodations for those wishing to just decompress, relax and feel like you’re staying with family or friends who will take care of all your needs, Casa Mónica in Cholla Bay is such a place.

Cholla Bay is the name of the small peninsula north of Puerto Peñasco and is surrounded by the Sea of Cortez and has some of the biggest tidal swings in the world. Cholla Bay is also home to the famous JJ’s Cantina and has been a very popular area to stay at in Rocky Point for many years.

This is not a place for college kids, parties or loud groups, but is really quiet and just amazing. It’s all about relaxing. A wonderful Bed and Breakfast located right on the bay—a hidden treasure of Cholla Bay. It’s a small place with two bedrooms, possibly room for six. The accommodations are bright and

38 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Places to Stay

Photo by Rachel Pack

View of Cholla Bay from JJ’s Cantina.

tide levels. When the tide is high, pull out the kayak available at the Inn, put it in the water right out the back door and explore some more, or take a pole and go look at fish.

The beach behind Casa Mónica is in a residential stretch, so it’s great for families. The Cholla Bay village has everything you need; cold beer at the world famous JJ’s next door, or tacos at Mr. Fish.

Once you’ve experienced Casa Monica at Cholla Bay, you’ll be reluctant to recommend it . . . because like so many before, you’ll want to keep this secret to yourself.

You can contact Gretchen at (602) 412-3311.

PL ACES TO STAY

Gretchen is a great breakfast cook and the only one cooking. Breakfast of fresh fruits, French toast, amazing potatoes and eggs. Breakfast is abundant and delicious, and a great way to start a day of exploring.

The bay is one of the few bays in the world that completely empties at low tide. You can walk out for what seems to be miles on the beautiful white rippled sand and dig for clams or just enjoy the view of the beautiful turquoise sea as it recedes.

When the tide is low, you can explore the bay and find trillions of hermit crabs and shells, large sand dollars and all kinds of great sea life. Depending on the time of day, and day of the month, you’ll be amazed at what you will find in the bay at the different

Cholla Bay at high tide. By Rachel Pack

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 39

The Valley of the Giants, San Felipe BC Mexico

Baj a Calif ornia

Photo by Christine Wood

Baja California is the northernmost state of Mexico. Before becoming a state in 1953, the area was known as the North Territory of Baja California. Consisting of 3.57 percent of the land mass of Mexico, it comprises the northern half of the Baja Playas de Rosarito................... 42 California peninsula, north of the 28th parallel. The Ensenada................................ 44 state is bordered on the west by the Pacific Ocean; on the east by Sonora, the U.S. state of Arizona and the Mexicali................................... 48 Gulf of California (also known as the Sea of Cortez); Los Algodones........................ 49 and on the south by Baja California Sur. Its northern San Felipe............................... 50 limit is the U.S. state of California.

Playas de R osarito

Playas de Rosarito, Baja California

Baja California, State Tourism www.discoverbajacalifornia.com & www.turismobc.gob.mx 01152-664-634-6330, -634-6918, -634-6574, or toll free from the U.S. (888) 775-2417 Tecate Baja California, tecatemexico.com.mx Tijuana Baja California, seetijuana.com, 011-52-664-6840537, or toll free from the U.S. (888) 775-2417; www.tijuanaonline.org.

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 41

Playas de Rosarito, Baja California

Playas de Rosarito

Mexico Living Contact Information

Associate Publisher Carlos Durán 661-614-3019 / carlos@mexicoliving.info

Playas de Rosarito, Baja California

P

layas de Rosarito, or Rosarito Beach as it is referred to in English, is a city in the Mexican state of Baja California and is its own municipality. It is located between the Pacific Ocean and coastal foothills, just 20 minutes south of the U.S. border in Tijuana and is a popular destination for tourist, snowbirds and expatriates from the United States.

GETTING TO ROSARITO Toll-Road Directions: Immediately after entering Mexico from San Ysidro merge into the right lane and follow the signs to the PLAYAS DE TIJUANA- ROSARITO. You’ll see the border fence to your right as you travel west.

Take the right turn-off to the road ENSENADA CUOTA. As you merge, get over into the left lane and stay there.

A toll fee of approximately $2.35 US dollars will take you all the way to Rosarito Beach.

Get the Guide At: La Bamba Restaurant Medio Camino (Halfway House) Rosarito Beach Hotel Lobby Coffee Shop D’Groomer dog grooming Click On Puerto Nuevo Baja Open House, km 38 Bobby’s Baja by the Sea, km 42

Rosarito Baja California, www.rosarito.org 011-52-661-612-0396, (661) 612-0396 or (800) 962-2252; www.rosarito.org

ATM/GETTING CASH Banamex, Bancomer and Bital have 24-hour-a-day ATMs that accept most U.S. bank cards all along the Tijuana - Rosarito Beach - Ensenada corridor. Only pesos are dispensed from these machines. You can get dollars from an HSBC ATM. Your account in the U.S. is charged that day’s Peso rate of exchange. Your account will also have about a $3.50 service fee deducted. Bital also has a ATM machine (Pesos only) in the AM/PM 24 hours Pemex Station on south end of Rosarito Beach.

WHILE IN ROSARITO BEACH Rosarito Beach offers a large variety of places to stay and thing to do. Rosarito has more than 900 hotel rooms from 25 resorts, hotels & motels and luxurious spas and incredible shopping in any of the Artisan shops with some of Mexico’s finest leather goods, furniture, wrought iron, pottery, marble and traditional Mexico crafts.

Rosarito offers 20 miles of white sandy beaches with endless activities including golfing, surfing, fishing, horse back riding, or relax in spa, ATV riding, visit Fox Studio Baja, or enjoy any of the many nightclubs.

Rosarito is also the host to the third largest bike ride in North America, held twice annually.

Rosarito Beach restaurants offer a culinary paradise of international cuisines. You can choose from traditional Mexican cooking, sensational seafood, delicious steak dinners, and a broad selection of other specialty American, Chinese, French and Italian cuisines. Be sure to visit the well-known lobster village, Puerto Nuevo is just fifteen minutes south of Rosarito, a tourist and culinary destination.

Whether staying for vacation or life, you will enjoy Rosarito Beach.

42 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Playas de Rosarito, Baja California

ROSARITO DIRECTORY - Pool/Spa

- Accept Credit Cards

- Pet Friendly

- Wi-Fi / Internet

- Serves Breakfast

- Kitchen/Restaurant

- Beer/Spirits

# - Map Number

- Reader Poll Winner

DIALING INSTRUCTIONS: USA to MX Cel Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to Mexico: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) Mexico to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel #) DIALING 800 NUMBER: Some international fees may apply on landlines.

800 DIALING to the US From Mexico (dial 001+) To Dial USA 800....................................................dial 880 To Dial USA 866....................................................dial 883 To Dial USA 877....................................................dial 882 To Dial USA 888....................................................dial 881 IMPORTANT NUMBERS: MX 411 (Spanish only)................................................ 040 Tourist Assistance Hotline........................................... 076 Green Angels (MX toll Free)..................... 1-800-903-0092 Worldwide Emergency No.for Mobile is...................... 112 Emergencies....................................................060 & 066 Sky Medical (from Mexico).................. 001-866-805-9624 Air-E-Vac ........................................... 001-880-321-9522

WHERE TO EAT American Food La Bamba .............................................661-100-2560 Steak & Seafood Bobby’s Baja by the Sea .......................661-614-1135 Vince’s Old Pier ..............................661-612-1253

WHERE TO STAY RV Park/Parque de RV Baja Season RV Parks..................................661-628-6128 Popotla R.V. Park......................................... 661-612-1501 Motel Camino Inn..................................................661-612.2803 Hotel / Condo Baja Rentals.................................... www.BajaCatalina.com Bobby’s Baja by the Sea ...................661-614-1135 Costa Azul ...........................................800-800-9632 Grand Baja Resort (Puerto Nuevo) ..............................................877-315-1002

BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z DOG GROOMERS D’ Groomer Dog Grooming ....................661-100-6218 Elevators/Elevadores To The Top Elevators....................................661-614-1434 FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company................................686-576-0653 FISH/PESCADERÍA Vince's Old Peir ...........................................661-612-1253 Home Furnishings Baja Nueva Decorating Studio......................686-211-4676 Custom contemporary furniture & home accessories Serving Rosarito, Ensenada, Puerto Penasco, San Felipe

Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)........... 686-577-1622 Click On

INTERNET ................................................661-614-0513

Click On

MAILING SERVICES ................................................661-614-0513

REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Nicolas Santos (Rosarito).............................619-917-5695 Laura Miller . .................Rosarito Beach 661-612-5844

Member NAR (US) AMPI (Mx) US 619-888-6171 REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES Ensenada Remax.........................................661-612-1132 REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services...................760-494-7053

Playas de R osarito

ICON Descriptions

INSURANCE Jorge Cuadros y Asociados.......................... 661-612-1295

Satellite TV Installation Cisco-Sat.....................................................661-616-0779 STORAGE SERVICES Baja Public Storage............. 619-272-3271, 661-614-1642 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE ................................612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . ....................................................612-142 0001 CALIGAS......................................................612-142 0122

Est. 1972 Jorge Cuadros & Associates

Best Reasons to be with George For a long time, we’ve been saying that you should do your Utilities, Property management, Insurance and FM-3 papers with George Cuadros. He’s the most professional with a flawless reputation.

But, for those who really want to know what our reasons are, here is our priority list: 1. The best auto and home insurance policies with affordable rates in Baja.

2. A friendly bi-lingual staff.

3. The only on-line service that keeps you up to date 24/7.

4. Over 38 years experience, so they know what they’re doing.

5. Fast service with minimal waiting.

6. No excuses... just results!

Dial from U.S. 1 (619) 819-5137 Local Tel. (661) 612-1295 or FAX (661) 612-1285 Quinta Plaza Shopping Center, Ste 3B, Central Rosarito Stop by or contact us: jorge@jorgecuadros.com or log www.jorgecuadros.com Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 43

Ensenada, Baja California

DRIVING DISTANCES

Rosarito Beach B.C.................. 44 miles Tijuana Border B.C................... 62 miles San Felipe, B.C. ..................... 140 miles Palm Spring, CA . ................... 204 miles Los Angeles, CA ..................... 120 miles Phoenix, AZ.......................................358

44 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Ensenada Baja California, www.enjoyensenada.com, 011-52646-172-3022, or (800) 310-9687; www.enjoyensenada.com

Fiestas de la Vendimia

E

nsenada is the third-largest city in the Mexican state of Baja California. It is located 116 km (about 70 miles) south of the San Diego/Tijuana border crossing. The city had a 2005 census population of 260,075. Ensenada is also the municipal seat of Ensenada. Located in the Bahía de Todos Santos — an inlet of the Pacific Ocean — Ensenada is an important commercial and fishing port as well as a cruise ship stop. The city is backed by small mountain ranges. Due to its location on the Pacific Ocean and Mediterranean latitude, the weather tends to be mild year-round.

GETTING TO ENSENADA

Getting to Ensenada has never been easier or faster. A US driver license is valid in Mexico, so you Mexican auto insurance is required by law if you drive in Mexico.

Taking The Bus from San Diego is another option. Take the San Diego Trolley to San Ysidro, then walk across the border to the small Plaza Viva bus station. ABC (Autotransportes Baja California) buses depart for Ensenada every half hour beginning 6AM - 9:30PM, you can call 1-52-(664)683-5681; fare is approx. $6.50dlls 1-way.

Greyhound Bus Lines (U.S. toll free: 800-231-2222).

Greyhound Lines will take you to Tijuana’s Central Bus Terminal (Central Camionera) from anywhere in the US and connect to any major Mexican bus line, including ABC. If you Arrive By Ship to the Ensenada port terminal,

Get the Guide At:

Baja Mart & Deli - at Baja Mar Baja Country Club Bajamar Golf Resort Magañas La Misión Restaurant La Vendimia Restaurant CasaMar Restaurant El Rey Sol Restaurant El Rey Sol Hotel The Happy Pharmacy

Ensenada

Mexico Living Contact Information

Associate Nuria Holly Bocanegra 661-114-8007 / nuriaholly@mexicoliving.info which holds two ships and each pier has shopping for Mexican curios and other items. Most cruise tourists arrive on the three and four night cruises Expect to pay about $2 for the five-minute ride to downtown shopping.

GETTING AROUND TOWN

ENSENADA

Ensenada, Baja California

Ensenada, Baja California

The healthiest and most personal way is ON FOOT. Ensenada is a great city for getting around on your own energy. Most of the shopping is at sea level and easy to navigate with all numbered streets running north and south and celebrity named streets running east and west.

TAKING THE BUS if you want some adventure, or want a great sightseeing opportunity. Fare is 7 pesos ($0.65). Buses are called “micro” instead of “bus” or Autobuses. Bus Terminal 646-121-2982 al 87 Calzada Lazaro Cardenas & Rio Alamar La Mesa.

IN A TAXI is a great way to get from point A to point B, Taxis Amarillos (Yellow Taxi) is available 24 hours with local and unlimited service available; they will drive you anywhere. Ave. Lopez Mateos & Miramar. English spoken. 646-178-3475.

Try RENTING A CAR if you want to get out and explore on your own. Fiesta Rent-A-Car at 646-176-3344, located at 1442 Blvd. Lazaro Cardenas or Renta-Car Ensenada at 646-176-3344, located at 582 Lopez Mateos.

LODGING & ACCOMMODATION

Ensenada has the accommodations to meet any level of comfort or amenities. Prices can range depending on the time of year from $30 to $250+ depending on the hotel. The best hotels in Ensenada are located to the north and south of town along the beach and are not within walking distance from downtown shopping and attractions. Taxi and shuttles are available in some locations.

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 45

Ensenada, Baja California

Fiestas de la Vendimia 2009

ENSENADA DIRECTORY ICON Descriptions

by Steve Dryden

Every summer the wineries of Baja California Norte pool their talents and wares to host an amazing series of wine, food, music and cultural events throughout the region. Most of these festivities take place in Ensenada or Valle de Guadalupe with a few events in other areas. You may need to get a bank loan to attend some of the events, but if you’re selective and practical, you can enjoy some great wine, food and entertainment.

The Vendimia 2009 takes place from August 7 and continues to August 23. Summer temperatures during these events usually hovers around 100 degrees Fahrenheit, so pace yourselves and hydrate with fresh water as needed. Due to the abundance of wine, it is suggested that you book lodging as soon as possible and spend the night near the location of the event. Hotel Plaza Fatima, Hacienda Guadalupe and Rancho Malagon B&B still have some rooms for the event season, if you act now.

Two of my favorites events include “Noche de Cofradia en Ensenada,” held this year on Tuesday, August 18, at 6 p.m. This is the most reasonably priced event and exposes your palate to about 30 wineries and local culinary establishments. Held at the seaport terminal, this competition matches wines with regional gourmet cuisine.

Another great day can be enjoyed Saturday, August 15, at 6 p.m. during the annual “Malagon Family Celebration” held near Francisco Zarco on a 500-acre ranch, vineyard, winery, B&B. This familyorientated event includes a horse show, live jazz and mariachi, an abundance of authentic Mexican/ American food, and large samples of all their wines.

In addition, their B&B is available for lodging during many of the other events, if you book early!

For a complete list of scheduled events for August 2009, visit www.mexicoliving.info/wineschedule.htm.

- Pool/Spa

- Accept Credit Cards

- Pet Friendly

- Wi-Fi / Internet

- Serves Breakfast

- Kitchen/Restaurant

- Beer/Spirits

# - Map Number

- Reader Poll Winner

DIALING INSTRUCTIONS: USA to MX Cel Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to Mexico: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) Mexico to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel #) DIALING 800 NUMBER: Some international fees may apply on landlines.

800 DIALING to the US From Mexico (dial 001+) To Dial USA 800....................................................dial 880 To Dial USA 866....................................................dial 883 To Dial USA 877....................................................dial 882 To Dial USA 888....................................................dial 881 IMPORTANT NUMBERS: MX 411 (Spanish only)................................................ 040 Tourist Assistance Hotline........................................... 076 Green Angels (MX toll Free)..................... 1-800-903-0092 Worldwide Emergency No.for Mobile is...................... 112 Emergencies....................................................060 & 066 Sky Medical (from Mexico).................. 001-866-805-9624 Air-E-Vac ........................................... 001-880-321-9522

WHERE TO EAT Mexican Casa Mar Restaurant Bar.................................646-174-0417 www.restaurantcasamar.com Magana’s........................................................646-155-0586 Steak & Seafood El Rey Sol.......................................................646-178-1601 La Mansion de Ensenada . ................646-178-3271

WHERE TO STAY RV Park/Parque de RV Mona Lisa RV Park..........................................646-177-5100 Popotla R.V. Park.............................................661-612-1501 Motels/Moteles America Motel ..........................................646-176-1333 Rudis Motel . ...........................................646-176-3245 Ensenada Inn..................................................646-176-1361 Hotel El Joker..................................................646-177-5151 Posada Don Fernando.....................................646-177-0127 Azteca Inn.......................................................646-177-4015 Hotel Best Western El Cid.........................................646-178-2401 Corona Hotel ..........................................646-176-0901 Costa Azul . ...................................800-800-9632 Grand Baja Resort (Puerto Nuevo) . ...............................................877-315-1002 Hotel Coral & Marina .........646-175-0000 Hotel La Fonda .........................646-155-0007 Posada El Rel Sol . ...................................646-178-1601 San Nicolas Hotel............................................646-176-1901 Oxidox Cafe....................................................646-178-8827

46 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Rentals Baja Rentals....................................... www.BajaCatalina.com

BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z Aeropuerto/Airport Aeropuerto ....................................................646-273-1984 Art Gallery Garery Art & Stuff...........................................646-175-8859 ARTIST Alfonso Arambulua..........................................646-149-3866 DEVELOPMENT MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE FRACCIONAMIENTOS Baja Mar Country Club ..........................1-800-434-2252 FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company...................................686-576-0653 Home Furnishings Baja Nueva Decorating Studio..................... 686-211-4676 Custom contemporary furniture & home accessories Serving Rosarito, Ensenada, Puerto Penasco, San Felipe

ENSENADA

Ensenada, Baja California

Professional Services PSN Mexico Professional Services..................646-178-8280 Legal/Immigration Assist FM3/FM2/FMT Import documentation www.psnmexico.com POLICE/POLICÍA Policia Ministerial............................................646-176-3636 Policia Federal Caminos................................. 646-683-8040 Policia Federal Preventiva ...............................646-176-2579 Prefectura Naval........................................... 469-0376/2948 public transportation/ el transporte público Terminal de Buses...........................................646-224-1041 REAL ESTATE AGENTS/ AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Nicolas Santos (Rosarito)................................619-917-5695 REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services......................760-494-7053

HEALTH SPA La Fonda.........................................................646-155-0394

utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE ...................................612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . ....................................................... 612-142 0001 CALIGAS......................................................... 612-142 0122

INSURANCE Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)..............686-577-1622

Vinos Fuentes Winery

Winery ..............................646-171-7070

MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS ISSSTE ..........................................................646-176-2230 IMSS .............................................................646-120-7771 Centro de Salud..............................................646-152-1371 MUSIC/MUSICA Pharmacy Regia & House of Music.................646-174-0557

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 47

Mexicali, Baja California

Mexicali, Baja California

M

exicali is on the Mexico border adjacent to Calexico and is the northernmost city in Latin America, located at 32°40´0˝N 115°28´0˝W. Mexicali is the capital of the Mexican state of Baja California. Mexicali is also the seat of the Municipality of Mexicali.

For centuries, the Colorado River fertilized these lands, which would eventually become one of the most important cotton hubs in the world. Americans, Chinese, Mexicans, East Indians and Japanese were so involved in productive endeavors that they forgot to formally found the city. Combining the words “Mexico” and “California,” they came upon the name Mexicali.

Years later, on March 14, 1903, Mexicali was officially founded and gradually transformed into the capital of Baja California. Today, it is a progressive city and its main industry has gone from agricultural to industrial.

The standard of living is the highest in Mexico.

It is recognized in Mexico for its sizable investment in education and low unemployment. Annually, thousands of people arrive in Mexicali for a variety of reasons—business, family, hunting, those who are looking to enjoy the surrounding nature.

Mexicali’s geographical location and modern infrastructure has also made it a prime location for business meetings, fairs, expos and conventions.

Offering a variety of quality products and services, as well as sports and cultural activities, Mexicali has what it takes to suit every visitor’s needs.

Source: Mexicali Tourism Board and Wikipedia.org.

Mexicali Baja California, mexicaliturismo.com/cotuco/prueba/ ingles. Mexicali is the capital of the State of Baja CA.

EMERGENCY PHONES Policía, Cruz Roja, Bomberos.......................................... 066

Hospital General..................................(686) 556-1123 Al 29

Asistencia Turistica.......................................................... 078

ISSSTE................................................(686) 557-2240 Al 44

Comisión Federal De Electricidad.................................... 071

ISSSTECALI.................................................(686) 557-2626

Comisión Estatal De Servicios Publicos De Mexicali...... 073

IMSS.............................................................(686) 555-5151

Policia Federal De Caminos.........................(686) 554-2909

Centro de Salud............................................(686) 554-4686

Rescate Brigadas del Sol.............................(686) 568-7878

Procuraduria Federal del Consumidor.........(686) 557-3085

48 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Los Algodones, Baja California

Los Algodones, Baja California

los algodones

EMERGENCY PHONES Bomberos Algodones (FIRE). . . . 658-517-7777 Policia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 066

of Mexicali, appro-ximately 16 km (10 miles) west of Yuma, Arizona, USA. It is the northernmost town in Mexico, and at its northeastern tip is the northernmost point in Mexico. Its official name is Vicente Guerrero, although most people use Algodones when referring to it. It reported a population of 4,021 as of the 2005 Mexican census (Segundo Conteo de Población y Vivienda 2005).

Situated near the borders of both southeastern California and southwestern Arizona, Los Algodones has become a popular tourist attraction in recent years due in part to inexpensive shopping and restaurants as well as inexpensive medical care and prescription medicines. The warm, dry climate of the area attracts a number of older tourists from across the United States and Canada who settle during the winter in the nearby U.S. towns of Yuma, Arizona, and Winterhaven, California, and Mexican resort towns of Puerto Peñasco, Sonora, and San Felipe, Baja California.

From the U.S. side, Los Algodones is most easily reached via Interstate 8 and south a short distance (3.33 Km/2.07 mi) along State Route 186/Andrade Road to the international border at Andrade, California. From Andrade, visitors can elect to park their vehicles for a small fee and walk across the border or to drive across.

The exact geographical location is 32°42´55˝N 114°43´44˝W at an elevation of 110 feet/33.5 meters above mean sea level. The Spanish-language name Los Algodones translates into English as “The Cotton (plants).”

Source: wikipedia.org

Get the Guide At: The Mine

Los Algodones Store

Los Algodones

os Algodones, Baja California, is a L small Mexican town located on the extreme northeastern tip of the municipality

Los Algodones

Mexico Living Contact Information

Associate Publisher Bill Maine 686-231-4921 / billmaine@gmail.com

PLACES TO EAT Bars and Club The Green Door Bar.........................................658-517-7347

PLACES TO STAY Motels/Hotels Olympia Motel.................................................658-517-7347

BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z Dentist Dr. Mario A Garibay, DDS ...............................658-517-3286

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San Felipe, Baja California

The San Felipe Arches The monument at the entrance to San Felipe was built in 1980 to represent the commitment of the four states around the Sea of Cortez (Baja California Norte, Baja California Sur, Sinaloa, and Sonora) to promote tourism and the regions beauty and charm.

DRIVING DISTANCES El Centro, CA ............................137 Miles Los Angeles, CA ............................350 Miles Phoenix, AZ ............................375 Miles San Diego, CA ............................236 Miles Tucson, AZ ............................446 Miles Yuma, AZ ............................184 Miles

San Felipe Baja California, sanfelipe.com.mx (COTUCO) 011-52-686-577-1104 IMPORTANT NUMBERS Emergency Help (Like USA 911) 066 Airport 686-577-1368 Civil Protection Unit 686-577-1433 Comision Federal de Electricidad 071 District Attorney 686-577-1110 Fire Dept.

686-577-1182 Health Dept.

686-577-1521

Hospital Immigration Office Mayor’s Office Police Local Police Federal Police State Judicial Port Captain

Get the Guide At: Baja Nueva Blowin’ Smoke BBQ Botica Sagrado Corazon Charley AM/PM Airport Road

Chumpos Pizza & Ice Cream CSI Baja Fat Boy’s Pizza Juanitos Restaurant

686-577-0117 686-577-1083 686-577-1021 686-577-1134 686-577-1045 686-577-1203 686-577-1577

Red Cross 686-577-1544 Secretary of Tourism 686-577-1155 Telnor 686-577-1000 Tourism Dept.

686-577-1155 Tourist Assistance (Green Angels) 078

Lillyana’s Day Spa Lighthouse Los Arcos Happy Jackass Maderas de San Felipe Maxivision Optical Oasis Market Playa Azul Restaurant

50 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Rancho Otro Market Redwagon Rosita Resturant Santa Fe Ph. SunRunner Mail Srvc.

Yetmail Z Market

San Felipe, Baja California

San Felipe, Baja California

S

an Felipe is a small fishing village that historically has been economically dependent on fishing, however today tourism and real estate provide the economic base. Even as it grows into the next century with four-lane highways, multi-pump fueling centers that shines bright even after the moon has drop behind the majestic mountains it will remain a small fishing village in its heart and soul.

Today San Felipe is maturing into a sophisticated resort community with destination resort developments, luxury condos, fine restaurants, sport fishing charters and world-class off-road adventures. San Felipe sits on the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez), 118 miles (190 km) south of the US border and within the municipality of Mexicali.

Directly behind San Felipe to the west is Sierra San Pedro Martír, the tallest mountains in Baja, forming a protective wall from Pacific storms. San Felipe has 23foot tides (7-meters) exposing a kilometer or more of ocean floor. One of the largest tidal bores in the world due in part to the Colorado River delta to the north.

GETTING TO SAN FELIPE

If you are Driving your car or a rental (you MUST purchase Mexican Auto Insurance) to San Felipe is straightforward, because all roads lead south. The Mexicali/San Felipe highway is a breath-taking visual experience from wetlands to moonscapes to vistas that fall off the horizon. Most car rentals in El Centro, San Diego, and Yuma Airports sell Mexican Auto Insurance.

The San Felipe International Airport has a runway of 4850 feet that is in excellent condition. The available oriented 310° and 130°, coordinates 30°57’ lat. 114°51’ long. The radio control tower operators are bilingual.

ATM/GETTING CASH

Because of the close proximity of Northwest Mexico

San Felipe

Mexico Living Contact Information

Associate Publisher Bill Maine 686-231-4921 / billmaine@gmail.com

SAN FEL I PE

Photo by Lorraine Fisher

San Felipe “Cantu Cove”

to the USA, most invoices, and receipts at restaurants, hotels, gas stations, etc., will be in both dollars and pesos. It is a good idea to convert your money into pesos for local purchases. You will likely save money.

ATMs at Banamex Bank on Chetumal, Bancomer Bank on Mar de Cortez and Chetumal or AM/PM on Mar Caribe Sur.

THINGS TO DO

San Felipe offers endless things to do and or not do depending on your personal goals.

San Felipe beaches extend north and south for over 50 miles of shoreline to explore. Off Road adventures, await you beyond every horizon, which is why San Felipe is home to the SCORE International Baja 250.

The desert terrain surrounding San Felipe is vast and offers incredible trails and exploration for ATV’s, dirt bike or off-road vehicle. Just south of San Felipe are extensive sand dunes ideal for buggies and rails. ATV Rentals are also available.

The Valley of the Giants: The natural reserve of the thousand-year-old Cardon Cactus has become a major attraction Shopping, San Felipe offers great shopping for bargain, souvenirs, arts and much more. Much of the shopping can be found downtown on the Malecon, Mar de Cortez, or Chetumal leading into town. However, all around town you’ll find great finds.

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San Felipe, Baja California

Rotary in San Felipe The Little Engine that Could

by Patricia Cochin

Before retiring to San Felipe, the only groups I joined were ones involving my children or my career. So, when I was approached by various local clubs, I politely declined.

Some months ago I was invited to a breakfast meeting by Rotarians Pim & Annika (a delightful couple) and surprised myself by agreeing . . . the surprise being I hate getting up early. Well, long story short, I joined—with my friend Dave as a mentor—and volunteered for three committees.

The reason for this change? The realization of what this small club, led by passionate President Michele MacDonald, had accomplished. San Felipe Rotary has members from all walks of our community, brought together by a desire to improve life for this town’s residents. They provide students financial assistance, school supplies, home improvements for seniors, food,

The 4th annual Caminata Contra el Cancer will be held March 20, 2010, San Felipe, B.C., MX

clothing, ambulances for Cruz Rojas, and a fire engine for South Campos, to list just a few accomplishments.

Recently, this spirit of commitment by Rotary, other groups, and dedicated individuals of the Caminata Contra el Cancer, resulted in opening a Cancer Detection Center that provides mammograms regardless of ability to pay.

I am proud to belong to San Felipe Rotary Club and look forward to all of its future projects.

52 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

San Felipe, Baja California

Around Town in San Felipe with ton g n i r r a ean H

S

time residents. Businesses have rushed to fill the voids north of town. It is no longer a requirement to come into San Felipe for provisions, whether it’s gas, food or entertainment. Again a sign of the times, a developing maturing market, the worldwide economic woes.

Even though this is our slow season, and we are all benefiting from the new businessess in the area, business principles do apply, like everywhere else there is more supply than demand encompassing real estate, restaurant chairs, and bar stools.

Very few of San Felipe’s residents where born here, like the Americans and Canadians seeking a better life in Mexico, so have most of our local San Felipe Mexican population. Through choice, San Felipe is populated with creative, inspired survivors looking to cut out a better life in the little fishing village of San Felipe on the Sea of Cortez.

Many downtown businesses routinely cut their summer hours and this year is no exception. Al’s Back Street Bar and Grill is closing on Mondays and Tuesdays and running some great dinner specials to attract those of us still in town. The V lounge has moved movie night to Sunday evening and is closed Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. Baja Mar and the Taco Factory remain the rock of San Felipe and seem to always be open to feed and entertain tourists as well as us locals.

We will all flourish in our own way in San Felipe, enjoying friends and family, and having a grand time.

SAN FEL I PE

It’s that time of year again. Snow wouldn’t last in San Felipe any longer than the ice in your drink.

Our snowbirds have left the roost and flown north to enjoy, in some areas, the only decent weather they get all year. This time of year San Felipe’s weather warms up, and warm can mean many things to many people—make no mistake, San Felipe will get hot.

We have enjoyed a mild early summer with slowly warming comfortable weather. It is inevitable that the weather will turn hot and our air conditioning and ice water will be our best friend for a month or two. The San Felipe Association of Retired Persons has appropriately titled their summertime program participants as The Summer Survivors.

The July 4th weekend has come and gone, with it a smaller influx of tourists, and fewer fireworks on the beach. A sign of the times is less money to burn. On July 5, Mexico held national elections and the downtown areas were blanketed with partisan participation to rival the U.S. fascination with political parties. Red Rallies here, Blue Rallies there, floats, banners and the, unavoidable, loud, mobile, persuasion machine . . . speakers on wheels, or talking cars as they’re commonly referred to.

“A Tale of Two San Felipes”: Even before the late June exodus of Americans and Canadians, you couldn’t help but notice a difference in San Felipe life. The developments north of town, most notably El Dorado Ranch, have continued to be developed resulting in more and more part-time as well as full-

Photo by John Pack

Shot of San Felipe Malecon from a boat in the bay.

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San Felipe, Baja California

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SAN FELIPE DIRECTORY ICON Descriptions

- Pool/Spa

- Accept Credit Cards

- Pet Friendly

- Wi-Fi / Internet

- Serves Breakfast

- Kitchen/Restaurant

- Beer/Spirits

# - Map Number

San Felipe, Baja California Pizza Fatboy’s

..............................686-577-4092

- Reader Poll Winner

DIALING INSTRUCTIONS: USA to MX Cel Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to Mexico: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) Mexico to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel #)

IMPORTANT NUMBERS: MX 411 (Spanish only)................................................ 040 Tourist Assistance Hotline........................................... 076 Green Angels (MX toll Free)..................... 1-800-903-0092 Worldwide Emergency No.for Mobile is...................... 112 Emergencies....................................................060 & 066 Sky Medical (from Mexico).................. 001-866-805-9624 Air-E-Vac ........................................... 001-880-321-9522

PLACES TO EAT

American Los Arcos . ............................686-577-2585 Baja Java ......................................686-577-2465 Baja Jimmys...............................................686-139-7373 Beach Bar & Grill .....................686-577-3144 Blowin’ Smoke BBQ ....................................686-576-0710

Los Arcos - Happy Jackass . ............686-577-2585 Popeye’s Pizza.............................................686-577-1122 Rabbit Pizza Delivery....................................686-577-0987 Spanish Miguel & Paco

..................................686-111-2257

Steak & Seafood ...................686-577-1580 Al’s Backstreet Cantina Green House................................................686-181-6358 ..................................................686-577-1028 El Nido ..............686-577-2540 Lighthouse Restaurant . .....................................686-577-2585 Los Arcos

SAN FEL I PE

DIALING 800 NUMBER: Some international fees may apply on landlines.

800 DIALING to the US From Mexico (dial 001+) To Dial USA 800....................................................dial 880 To Dial USA 866....................................................dial 883 To Dial USA 877....................................................dial 882 To Dial USA 888....................................................dial 881

Fine Dining The Latin Garden..........................................686-209-6369 2-Highway 5 KM 183, San Felipe, BC .................686-577-0022 Pavilion Restaurant

PLACES TO STAY

.........686-114-7735

RV Park/Parque de RV Club de Pesca..............................................686-577-1180

Burgers Baja Burger..................................................686-577-2465 Chilis & Burgers...........................................686-577-6196

Rentals Baja Bill's Property Managment....................686-577-4014 .........686-577-1431 Casey’s Place

Breakfast The Bistro “Java Jitters”

Ice Cream Chumpo’s Pizza and Ice Cream....................686-577-0085 Japanese Oshii Japanese Restaurant...........................686-184-9790 Mexican The Beach Bar and Grill ...........686-577-3144 El Apetito.....................................................686-139-1943 El Club.........................................................686-577-1175 Juanitos (El Colorado) .........................686-133-6500 La Palapa Bar & Grill ...............686-200-4083 Mi Casa es Tu Casa......................................686-577-1495 Rancho Alegre ..........................686-576-0648 Restaurant Playa Azul ..........................686-120-9051 Rice & Beans .........................................686-577-1770 Rosita . ...........................................686-577-1903

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San Felipe, Baja California

56 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

MySanFelipeVacation.com......................... (686) 109-0579

San Felipe, Baja California Melody Ashley..............E-mail: melodya2004@yahoo.com Robin Waters...............................................686-115-0526 Sandy Colomb "The Gourd Lady" . ...............686-576-0384 Watercolors by Mary Lou.............................686-171-5513 ATTORNEY/ABOGADO Carlos A. Martinez Monges..........................686-120-1650 Lic. Francisco Sosa Mendez.........................686-577-0624 ADULT CARE/ATENCION DE ADULTOS San Felipe Adult Living Facility......................686-576-0661 Panaderia Especial

BAKERY/PANADERÍA ................................686-577-2948

BANK/BANCO BBVA Bancomer...........................................686-577-2224 Silvia Elizabeth Urbea, Preferred Customer’s Unit Ext. 13 BANDS/BANDAS Agave Blues.................................................686-184-9237 BARS/CLUBS ....................686-577-1580 Al’s Backstreet Cantina ..........686-577-3144 The Beach Bar and Grill . .............................................707-237-1906 V Lounge . .....................................686-577-0060 Fandango’s JollyMon......................................................686-213-5647

SAN FEL I PE

Rancho del Sol . .....................686-231-4921 Redwagon Property Services.......................686-576-0081

Sandollar Condotels.....................................686-123-7688 Places to Stay…Rentals…Sandollar Condotels Seaside Shangri-La Apartment.....................686-577-1573 ..........................686-577-0745 Su Casa Elegante Motels/Hotels Marina Resort

.............................686-577-1569

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) ACCOUNTING/CONTABILIDAD CP E&A Accounting...........................................686-577-0836 Los Arcos - Happy Jackass

..............686-577-2585

BEAUTY SALONS/SALONES DE BELLEZA ..............................686-577-6253 Lilly Ana’s Day Spot BUILDING MATERIALS/MATERIALES DE CONTRUCCIÓN ..........................686-577-1515 Maderas de San Felipe

Alterations/sastre San Felipe Seamstress (Vickie Silva)............686-175-5420 ARCHITECT/ARQUITECTO Rosa Lina Ramos Lazcano...........................686-184-6172 ART GALLERY Oasis Fine Art Gallery...................................686-221-1245 Andrena Joyce

ARTIST/ARTISTA ....... E-mail: andrenajoyce@yahoo.com

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San Felipe, Baja California CHOCOLATE/CHOCOLATE Baja Chocolate Lovers . .........................686-576-0348

COFFEE & TEA/CAFÉ Y TE The Bistro (Java Jitters)...............................686-114-7735 COMPUTER SERVICES Computing Integral Solutions........................ 686-577-2370 CSI Baja....................................................... 686-577-2928 CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE CONSTRUCCIÓN San Felipe Management Services.................686-576-0553

Sweitzer Construction Management

church Mission San Felipe.......................................686-577-0877

Mission San Felipe

Non Denominational Church

(English Speaking)

2 Blocks west of the Glorietta at Chetumal and Mar de Irlanda

SUNDAY SERVICE 8:45 AM Please call 577-0877

CITY SERVICES/SERVICIOS DE LA CIUDAD District Attorney’s........................................686-577-1110 Mayors Office..............................................686-577-1021

.......686-577-0195

SWEITZER CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT COMPANY BJ Sweitzer Consultant Carlos Mora Contractor

Phone: 577-0195 USA: 011-52-686-577-0195 Email: bejota10@aol.com

Perez Construction.......................................686-576-0650 COUNSELING-THERAPY/CONSULTA TERAPÉUTICA Inner Connection..........................................686-255-5447 DELI ......................686-577-3168 Sand & Sea Market & Deli SunDance Deli .......................................686-576-0369

58 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

SAN FEL I PE

San Felipe, Baja California

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San Felipe, Baja California

Amor Property

DENTIST/DENTISTA California Dental Spa . ............................686-577-0708 Dr. Felix Rodriguez........................................686-577-1919 Consultorio Dental Y de Ortodoncia .............686-577-6212

Real Estate

San Felipe

Voted “Best Real Estate Broker 2007 & 2008” Mision Los Sahuaros

DEVELOPMENTS/FRACCIONAMIENTOS Casablanca..................................................686-157-1728 Diamante Residencial...................................686-569-2347 El Dorado Ranch..........................................686-577-0015 La Perla Del Mar...........................................760-458-7602 Playa de Oro ..........................................686-576-0223 Playa del Paraiso................................ 888-647-5292 x 704 San Rafael...................................................686-576-0223 Discount Store El Cheap-O...................................................686-577-6263 DOCTORS/DOCTORES Dr. Victor Abasolo............ 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174

Gated Community 3 Bed, 3 Bath INQUIRE! Second Row from the Beach!

ENTERTAINMENT/ENTRETENIMIENTO Name That Tune - Denny Flannigan...............686-576-1683 The Singout Sisters & Chuey (Karaoke) .. 686-576-0047 EVENT SERVICES/servicios acontecimiento Produciones Baja.........................................686-576-1683 FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company.......... ......................686-576-0653

Best Priced Lot Near Beach ONLY $57,500!

On-site agents at Los Sahuaros!

Ask for Bennie and Sheron at gate!

U.S.760-494-3639 Mex. 577-0611

MexQuest Mortgage Corp........... Toll Free: 1-888-257-9162 FILM DEVELOPMENT/IMPRESION DE FOTOS Fotografia Alvarez.........................................686-577-1144

Baja Nueva

VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR OVER 100 LISTINGS www.AmorProperty.com 60 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

FURNITURE/MUEBLERÍA ...........................................686-187-7795

San Felipe, Baja California GENERAL CONTRACTOR/CONTRATISTA GENERAL See HOME BUILDERS/CONTRATISTAS

HEALTH & fitness/SALUD Y ejercicio Squats Gym .......................................... 686-125-1555

GOLF/GOLF Las Caras de Mexico....................................686-576-0517 Graphic Design/Diseño Gráfico GreetScape..................................................686-188-2393 GYNECOLOGIST/GINECÓLOGO Annel Becerra Prado....................................686-577-6350 HATS/sombreros Band It......................................................... 686-123-5147

SAN FEL I PE

HOME BUILDERS/CONTRATISTAS M & O Construction.....................................686-124-3908 Oscar Parra..................................................686-163-6514 Oscar Perez.................................................686-120-6506 Perez Construction.......................................686-236-4927

PMD Developments......................................638-105-9182 San Felipe Home Builders.............................686-577-3176

HOME CLEANING/LIMPIEZA DE CASAS Redwagon Property Services.......................686-576-0081 Housekeeping - Jackie’s Home Help.............686-228-7480 IMPORT SERVICES/SE RVICIOS DE IMPORTACIÓN San Felipe Storage Company........................ 686-576-0432 Insurance Alani’s Mexican Insurance............................686-577-2464

Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)...........686-577-1622 Orval Insurance............................ orvalquotes@gmail.com

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San Felipe, Baja California

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San Felipe, Baja California INTERIOR DESIGN/DISEÑO INTERIOR Baja Nueva..................................................686-211-4676

Markets/Mercados Hipon/El Pelicano................................686-577-0104/0204

INTERNET CAFE/CAFE DE INTERNET Soluciones Integrales en Computacions........686-577-2370 Kitchen/Bath Cocina/Bano Concepto Casa .......................686-576-0731

SAN FEL I PE

LANDSCAPING/JARDINERÍA Mauricio's Landscaping................................686-151-8002 Prestige Landscape and Maintenance...........686-170-8651 Your Paradise...My Passion Versoleil ................................................ 686-576-0664

Oasis BEST CIGARETTE PRICES..................686-577-1276 MASSAGE/MASAJE Casey’s Place (Massage).............................686-577-1431

LAUNDRY SERVICE/LAVANDERÍA Wash Tub..................................................... 686-577-2001 LIFEGUARD/SALVAVIDAS San Felipe Lifeguards...................................686-233-7730 Ask for Franscio

Meat Markets/Carnecerias Mercados Zsamaniegos Carnecerias (Z Market)............ 686-577-1676

LOCKSMITH/CERRAJERO Gomez Locksmith........................................686-221-8337 24 HR Service, Professional Service. Homes, Cars, Boats, Motorcycles, English Spoken

MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS Ambulance..................................................686-577-0500 Baja Medical Center.....................................686-576-0200 Health Center.............................................. 686-577-1521 Red Cross....................................................686-577-1544 Dr. Victor Abasolo............ 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174

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San Felipe, Baja California Optometrists/Opthamologists California Optical..........................................686-577-0708 PHARMACY/FARMACIA Botica “Sagrado Corazon”............................686-577-1294

Baja 24/7 Construction & Real Estate...........686-577-6196 Desert Hawk................................................686-577-1244 Sea Mexico Realty (SMR).............................686-576-0223 REAL ESTATE SERVICES/servicios DE BIENES RAÍCES Baja Closing & Escrow Services...................686-576-0653 RECREATION/RECREACIÓN San Felipe Sailing-Sailing Lessons................686-114-3259 Aerodynamic - Ultralight flights . ..................686-116-2933 SATELLITE TELEVISION & INTERNET/ TELEVISION SATELITALES Y INTERNET CSI - Computer & Satellite Installation..........686-577-2928

Santa Fe Pharmacy .....................................686-576-0546

Computer & Satellite Installation • Dish Network TV • Satellite Internet

686-577-2928 POLICE/POLICÍA Federal Preventive Police .............................686-577-1045 Police .........................................................686-577-1134 PRINTERS/IMPRESORAS Papeleria Copicentro....................................686-577-1402 The Print Supplier.........................................686-230-9933 PROPERTY MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE PROPIEDADES Casey’s Place..............................................686-577-1431 Custom Vacation Homes..............................928-277-6863 928-277-7559 & visit www.sanfelipevacations.com Enjoy Baja....................................................686-576-0697 Redwagon Property Services.......................686-576-0081 POSTAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS POSTALES Yetmail......................................................... 686-577-1255

• Computers • DVD Rentals

shane@csibaja.com

SERVICE ORGANIZATIONS/ ORGANIZACIONES DE SERVICIO Club Las Amigas..........................................686-202-0455 San Felipe Lions Club...................................686-212-3599 San Felipe Rotary.........................................686-576-0112 SHOPPING MALL/CENTRO DE COMPRAS La Plazita.....................................................686-577-2119 Solar Baja Solar Systems......................................686-111-0504 SPECIALTY STORES Sea of Cortez Salt........................................686-209-0074 STORAGE/ALMACÉN San Felipe Storage Company........................ 686-576-0432 TATTOOING/TATUAJES Baja Ink Spot Tattoo & Body Piercing............686-577-0746 TIRE SHOP/lLANTERA Llantera Aguilar............................................686-192-8462

Sand & Sea.................................................. 686-577-3168 SunRunner Mail Center .......................... 686-147-6752 PUBLICATIONS/PUBLICACIONES Gringo Gazette............................................. 686-111-3692

Mexico Living Magazine............................... 686-577-1377 San Felipe Newsletter...................................686-577-2898 REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Bill Maine.....................................................686-231-4921 REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES Amor Property ......................................686-577-0611

TRANSLATION/TRADUCCIÓN Carlota Villagran B........................................686-212-9951 TRANSPORTATION/TRANSPORTACIÓN Airport.........................................................686-577-1368 Taxi Service.................................................686-577-1293 Bus Station .................................................686-577-1516 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos Electric (CFE)................... 686-577-1060 or 686-577-5602 Estrella Azul (Water Dispensery)...................686-577-1314 Propane Gas................................................686-577-2373 State Com. of Services Public......................686-556-1383 Telnor Phone Co...........................................686-577-1000 Water Company...........................................686-577-1022 VETERINARY/VETERINARIO Hospital Animal............................................686-577-1688 PETS...........................................................686-577-2155 Veterinaria Mundo Animal.............................686-577-2663 WASTE MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE DESHECHO San Felipe Disposal......................................686-121-1004

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San Felipe, Baja California

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San Felipe, Baja California

San Ignacio Mission

Baj a Calif orn ia Sur

Photo by John Pack

Baja California Sur is one of the 31 states of Mexico. Before becoming a state in 1974, the area was known as the South Territory of Baja California. It has an area that covers 3.57 percent of the land mass of Mexico and comprises the southern half of the Baja California peninsula, south of the 28th parallel.

MulegĂŠ.............................. 68 It is bordered to the north by the state of Baja Loreto............................... 70 California, to the west by the Pacific Ocean Mission, BajaGulf of California (also andSan to Ignacio the east by the La Paz............................... 74 California known as the Sea of Cortez).

The state also Photo by Rachel Pack San Jose del Cabo............ 76 has maritime borders with Sonora and Sinaloa Cabo San Lucas................ 78 to the east across the Gulf of California.

66 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

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San Felipe, Baja California

Secretary of Tourism, Baja California Sur Carr. al Norte Km. 5.5 Fracc. Fidepaz, CP 23090 La Paz, B.C.S.; Tel: (112) 4-0100,Fax: (112) 4-0722; E-mail: turismo@lapaz.cromwell.com.mx Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 67

Mulegé, Baja California Sur

Photo by Christine Wood

Mulegé, Baja California

Beach camping on Coyote Beach south of Mulege

M

ulegé is situated at the mouth of the Río Santa Rosalía (26°53´17˝N 111°58´53˝W), in the state of Baja California Sur, 38 miles south of Santa Rosalia, at the mouth of Bahía de Concepción.

In 2005, the reported population was 3,317.

Nestled between two hills in a lush tropic palm oasis divided by a shaded river that runs towards an estuary that flows to the sea, Mulegé is rich in history with lots of great sites to see, including the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, founded in 1705; the old state penitentiary, finished in 1907; and the Sierra de Guadalupe cave paintings.

Outdoor activities abound, from mountain biking,

scuba diving and kayaking to deep sea fishing.

The cold northern current and the warm southern current come together to create an environment great for catching some of the 100 different species of fish in the Mulegé waters.

By land, Mulegé is 650 miles south of the San Diego/Tijuana border crossing on Mexican Highway 1, and in 2010, via Highway 5 through San Felipe.

By Air, Mulegé is served by three airstrips: Hotel Serenidad Airstrip (El Gallito), the Mulegé Municipal and Punta San Pedro. Regional flights are available at the Palo Verde Airport, and international flights are available at the Loreto Airport.

68 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Mulegé DIRECTORY DIALING INSTRUCTIONS: USA to MX Cel Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to Mexico: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) Mexico to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel #) DIALING 800 NUMBER: Some international fees may apply on landlines.

800 DIALING to the US From Mexico (dial 001+) To Dial USA 800....................................................dial 880 To Dial USA 866....................................................dial 883 To Dial USA 877....................................................dial 882 To Dial USA 888....................................................dial 881 IMPORTANT NUMBERS: MX 411 (Spanish only)................................................ 040 Tourist Assistance Hotline........................................... 076 Green Angels (MX toll Free)..................... 1-800-903-0092 Worldwide Emergency No.for Mobile is...................... 112 Emergencies....................................................060 & 066 Sky Medical (from Mexico).................. 001-866-805-9624 Air-E-Vac ........................................... 001-880-321-9522

PLACES TO EAT

Mulegé

Mulegé, Baja California Sur

Mexican La Casitas....................................................615-153-0019 Tacos y Pollos “Del Castillo”.........................615-153-0378

PLACES TO STAY Bed & Breakfasts Clementine's B&B........................................615-153-0319 Casa del Los Suenos B&B............................615-155-4087 Hotel Hotel Serenidad............................................615-155-4087 Mulegé Hotel................................................615-153-0090 San Buenaventura Hotel...............................615-153-5616 Terrazas Hotel..............................................615-153-0009 RV Oasis Rio Baja.............................................615-153-0425 Villa Maria Isabel RV Park.............................615-153-0246

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) Tours/adventures Baja Tropicales................................................. 615-153-0320

Mulegé Sportfishing.....................................615-153-0482 Cortez Explorers...........................................615-153-0500

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Loreto, Baja California Sur

Loreto, Baja California Sur

L

oreto, founded in 1697 by “La Mision” Jesuit missionaries, was Photo by Rachel Pack the first Spanish settlement on the east coast of the Baja California peninsula. Loreto, situated on the Sea of Cortez, 26º00’46” N 111º20’36” W, served as the capital of the province of Las Californias from its founding until the capital was moved to Monterey on February 3, 1777. The 2005 census reported a population of 10,283.

Today Loreto is a tourist resort, catering mostly to U.S. travelers, Emergency Phone Numbers with daily flights from California arriving at Loreto Emergency Highway Road Service 078 and 613-133-0794 International Airport. Many of the American tourists Emergency Assistance 060 enjoy fishing in “pangas” for “dorado” (Mahi-mahi Federal Police , Nopolo (Loreto Bay) 613-133-0794 or Dolphin Fish). Local restaurants will even prepare Municipal Police, Paseo Tamaral 613-135-0035 or 613-135-2270 the daily catch of the tourists. Loreto has an excellent 613-135-1566 museum alongside the historic, but still active, Fire Department 613-135-1111 parish. The Spanish Fathers found a steady spring of Red Cross Ambulance , Paseo Tamaral 613-135-1566 fresh water on this site.

Loreto’s climate is hot and humid, with abundant Get the Guide At: sunshine (desert with some rainfalls in summer).

La Cas Cada Restaurant El Canaveral The medium temperature is 76 degrees Fahrenheit.

Silver Desert Jewelry & Gifts Dali Gourmet The temperatures are hot from June through October.

These summer days have highs around 93 degrees Bar Eclipse Coco Cabanas Fahrenheit and high humidity.

Hotel Luna La Damiana Inn 70 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Loreto, Baja California Sur

Around Town in Loreto with man ynn Ham Place, Dan Salazar, 35 pounds; Third Place, Everett Riggs, 33.1 pounds.

Day 2: First Place, Bob Jonston, 41.4 pounds; Second Place, Paul Graham, 39 pounds; Third Place, Gene Laragan, 38 pounds.

Day 3: First Place, Desmond Mooreland, 41 pounds (time - 1:18); Second Place, Phil Schuch, pounds (time - 1:27); Third Place, John Hunt, 30.5 pounds.

Grand Prize: Joe Graham, 44 pounds. (Shimano Tyrnos 30 Reel.)

Kids Can Catch Fish Too! Al and Barbara Jordan’s grandsons, Jarred, 14, and Jacob, 11, came to Loreto for a little vacation and to do some fishing. Jacob brought in a 55-pound Dorado all by himself! Looks like Jacob’s Dorado is bigger than the tournament anglers. Okay, all you kids out there . . . go fishin’!

The Fishin’ For the Mission tournament was founded by Jim Duggins in 1993 and has been a private word-of-mouth contest with about 12 boats and 60 participants. The tournament is for charity, with all proceeds going to the Mission of Loreto. In 2002 it opened up to the public and had 21 boats and 105 participants. It has become a huge success generating thousands of dollars to charity for Loreto.

This year the tournament was held July 16–18.

Loreto

L

The First Annual Tripui Fishing Tournament was presented by Hotel Tripui and the residents of the Tripui Resort on June 26 and 27. About 30 boats were on the water for this event with a limit of four anglers per boat.

First place went to Baja Quest with a 45- and 44.1-pound (89.1 pounds) Dorado; No Fish took second place with a 42.3- and 36.2-pound (83.6 pounds) Dorado; and the “biggest single Dorato”—weighing in at 45.8 pounds—went to Pacifico. Biggest “other species” went Magic for their 41.6-pound Yellowtail.

We just use boat names for this tournament . . .

About $9,000 was raised for the 500 or so kids at the Miramar School. Darlene and Frank Hester and the villagers of Ligui put a crew together to clean and bag all the fish right there at the weigh-in station (hauling off all the guts and carcasses). About 90 percent of the fish caught were donated to the village of Ligui—estimated to be about 900 pounds. Nothing went to waste!

Great participation from Tripui, Juncalito and Loreto for this First Annual Tripui Fishing Tournament!

Vagabundo’s Del Mar put on their 21st Annual Dorado Tournament. Registration began at the Hotel Desert Inn on July 5; fishing July 6, 7 and 8.

Day 1: First Place, Fritz Lowe, 36.1 pounds; Second

Al Jordan with grandsons, Jarred 14 years old and Jacob 11 years old. Jacob brought this is all by himself.

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Loreto, Baja California Sur

LORETO DIRECTORY

Trpui Hotel...................................................613-133-0818

PLACES TO EAT

Mediterranean Mediterraneo................................................613-135-2571 Mexican 1697............................................................613-135-2538 La Cascada Restauran.................................613 135-0550 Seafood 1697............................................................613-135-2538 Augie’s Bar and Bait Shop

PLACES TO STAY

Motel Motel El Dorado................................... 686-613-135-1500

Rentals Coco-cabanas.............................................613-135-1729 El Tiburon Casitas................................US (805) 748-4566 Hamman’s Vacaciones.................................613-135-0791 Hotel Hacienda Suites...........................................613-135-1693 Hotel Coco Cabana......................................613-135-1729 Hotel Luna...................................................613-135-2288 Hotel Oasis (in Mexico).......................... 01-800-624-9449

Toll free US: 1 866 482 0247 La Damiana Inn............................................613-135-0356 La Daminanas..............................................613-135-0356 La Mision Loreto..........................................613-135-0524

US & Canada: (877) 53LAMISION La Mision Hotel............................................613-134-0350

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) AIRPORT Loreto International Airport...........................613-135-0565 BUS Loreto Bus Terminal..................................... 613-135-0767 TOURISM Loreto Tourism Office................................... 613-135-0411 MEDICAL Red Cross.................................................... 613-135-1111 Hospital Centro de Salud

72 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Loreto, Baja California Sur

Fishing Vacation in Loreto

by John Pack

Trevor Knable, Scott McEwen Sr., Scott McEwen, Kelly McEwen in forefront, Tim Koznek, Mike Marquez, Ryan McCory in background.

They were able to get to Coronado Island just as the outboard died a second time; however, this time the second boat was able to tow the other in. They decided to not fish their last day and go out with a bang. Happy to be alive, lots of fish and one heck of a story to tell when they get home. .

Loreto

A group of eight guys from the central California area spent their second year in Loreto at the Rivera del Mar RV park and every day was a day for fishing.

Their first day didn’t net much, but then it picked up. On the second day they were bringing in some nice Dorado and sailfish, anad the week was going great.

On their second to last day, things changed, it was fishing at its best when, from out of nowhere, they were caught 30 miles out in a chubasco. As the wave grew and the wind pounded them, one of their two 17-foot boat’s outboard died. At this point the waves were crashing into the boat and nearly capsized them; it started to look helpless and that they’d not make it. They decided to ditch the boat to save their lives and all get aboard the second boat . . . it was just then they got the engine started.

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La Paz, Baja California Sur

La Paz, Baja California

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La Paz Phone Numbers Tourism Department Police Emergency Legal Assistance Fire

078 060 061 068

Ferry Office Green Angels Immigration Red Cross

122-5005 124-0100 124-6349 066

a Paz (“The Peace”) is the capital city of Baja California Sur located at 24.1405°N 110.3123°W and is an important commercial center.

Its surrounding municipality, which is the fourthlargest municipality in Mexico in geographical size, in 2005 reported a population of 219,596 living on 7,828.2 square miles of land.

La Paz is typically dry and warm with averages of 75–77 degrees Fahrenheit, and 300 days or better of sunshine annually. Summer months are often in the 90’s and can be humid. The winter months can drop below 60, but stays mostly in the mid-60’s. During the summer the cooling Coromuel winds, a weather phenomenon unique to the La Paz area, blow from Bahia de La Paz keeping the temperature mild.

By Air, La Paz is served by Manuel Márquez de León International Airport with flights to the U.S., Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey.

Two ferry services operate from Pichilingue outside the city, connecting the Baja California peninsula to the mainland at Mazatlán and Topolobampo.

By Road, La Paz is served mainly by two highways, Highway 1 that links the south of the state from Cabo San Lucas to the north of the peninsula until Tijuana, and Highway 19, which connects La Paz with the population of the South Pacific towns like Todo Santos and El Pescadero.

LA PAZ DIRECTORY PLACES TO EAT Cafe Capri....................................................624-123-3737 Gorilla’s Grill................................................612-128-8095 Le Bistrot Francais.......................................612-125-6080

PLACES TO STAY Hotels Araiza Inn Palmira $$...................................612-121-6200 Club El Moro $$...........................................612-122-4084 Crowne Plaza $$$........................................612-124-0830 La Casa Jalisco............................................612-12-84311 La Concha Beach Resort $$$.......................612-121-6344 La Posada de Engelbert $$...........................612-122-4011 La Posada de Las Flores $$$$.....................612-125-5871 Los Arcos $$$.............................................612-122-2744 Marina Hotel $$$.........................................612-121-6254 Mediterrane $...............................................612-125-1195 Seven Crown Hotel $$$$..............................612-128-7787

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) FERRY SERVICE Baja Ferries..................................................612-125-7443 GOVERNMENT SEMATUR....................................................612-125-8899 Baja California Sur State Government...........612-124-0199 La Paz Post Office

74 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Around Town in La Paz with man h s A n h o

J

It’s time for La Paz to enter a period somewhat akin to a midday siesta, but with the “manufactured” swine flu crisis behind us, the city seems more to be coming out of a slumber rather than into it. While the cruising community is largely sailing off for the north, hotel occupation has started to climb again as other activities such as fishing tournaments and real estate shopping brings others in.

Speaking of home shopping, now is a great time to buy real estate in La Paz. While real estate was going up sharply in the past with development proceeding at a pace beyond imagination, things have settled down and sanity has been restored here.

With the fear of becoming another touristy Cabo San Lucas largely in the past, La Paz’s reputation as a great place to retire remains intact and speculation prices have come back down to something a bit more normal. Real estate shopping is a great excuse to enjoy all that La Paz has to offer! While in town, you might want to take a jaunt out to El Triunfo or San Bartolo to enjoy their August festivities.

L a Pa z

La Paz, Baja California Sur

But even if you’re not in La Paz right now, you can still do some good for the community by getting involved with Club Cruceros, www.clubcruceros. org, for a mere $10 per year. Club Cruceros is a nonprofit organization dedicated to helping the children of La Paz. Although it was started by cruisers, you don’t have to be a cruiser to belong or help. Just join and send in your yearly dues and know that it’s doing some good for the kids.

Another way of helping the community is to donate to Baja Dogs of La Paz, www.bajadogshelplineoflapaz.org. Strays are a big problem in Mexico and rather common here in urban La Paz. Baja Dogs is dedicated to alleviating the problem with spaying/neutering services, pet adoptions and other services to control the problem.

They’ve been successful at working with the local government to help bring the problem under control, but are running very low on money and need support.

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San Jose del Cabo, Baja California Sur

San Jose del Cabo, Baja California

S

an José del Cabo is located in Baja California Sur and is the seat of the municipality of Los Cabos at the south end of the Baja California peninsula.

In the 2005 census it had a population of 48,518.

Together with neighboring Cabo San Lucas it forms a major tourist destination for travelers, particularly from North America. The two cities are served by Los Cabos International Airport.

San José del Cabo offers you tranquility and old world charm, wonderful gift shops showcasing the art of Mexico, fabulous restaurants, fishing, golf, surfing and

SAN JOSE DEL CABO DIRECTORY PLACES TO EAT

American Applebee’s...................................................624-172-6472 Asian Baan Thai Pan Asian Restaurant and Bar......624-142-3344 Burgers & More Baja Brewing Company................................624-146-9995 Cactus Jack's Bar and Grill...........................624-142-5601 Die Trying Cafe............................................624-142-5657 Coffee & Baked Correcaminos Cafe......................................624-142-3510 International Local Eight Restaurant.................................624-142-6655 Havana Supper Club.....................................624-142-2603 Italian & Pizza Buon Appetito..............................................624-142 4040 La Dolce Italian Restaurant...........................624-142-6621

SAN JOSE DEL CABO Phone Numbers

Police 624-142-0361 Emergencies 066 Fire Dpt. 116 Airport - AEROPUERTO 624-146-5111 Ambulances.

624-143-4020 City Hall 624-142-2960 Consumer Protection (PROFECO) 624-42-8076 Chamber of Commerce (CANACO) 624-143-0437 Drinking Water 624-142-1392 Electric Power Co. - (CFE) 624-142-0337 Family Protection - (DIF) 624-142-0141 Federal Police - (PJF) 624-143-1210 Fire Department(116) 624-142-2466 Gas Leaks 624-142-0122 Harbor Master 624-142-0722 Health Center 624-142-0241 Highway Patrol 624-146-0573 Immigration 624-146-5229 Public Services 624-142-0624 Red Cross 624-142-0316 Secretary of Tourism 624-142-3310 Social Security Hospital (IMSS) 624-142-0180 State Police 624-142-4104 TELMEX 624-142-0001 Tourist Assistance 624-142-0057

all the nighttime entertainment you seek. Or you can just relax on one of our many pristine white sand beaches.

For nature lovers, a beautiful protected estuary with a variety of fish, turtles, dolphins, exotic marine animals and over 100 species of birds is located on the southeast edge of the city. And the historic artist colony of Todos Santos is an easy one-hour drive to the north, along the scenic Pacific Ocean.

Local residents take pride in restoring the town’s 18th century architecture and preserving its quiet, laidback ambiance.

Mexican Don Emiliano Restaurant..............................624-142-0266 Casianos Restaurant.................................... 624 142 5928 Brisa Beach Club and Restaurant....................624-142-244 Habanero's Restaurant.................................624-142-2626 Jazmin Restaurant........................................624-142-1760 Seafood La Panga Antigua Restaurant and Bar...........624-142-4041 Steak La Bodega Steak and wine house.................624-142-6619

PLACES TO STAY Hotel Baja Vacations.............................................877-462-2226 Barcelo Hotels and Resort......................... (624) 146-7500 Cabo Surf Hote............................................624-142-2666 Desire Resort & Spa....................................624-142-9300 Posada Chabela...........................................624-172-6495 Posada Real Best Western..........................624-142 - 0155 Suites Las Palmas........................................624-142-2131

76 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

San Jose del Cabo, Baja California Sur

Earth, Sea & Sky Vacations Recognized as Top Villa Rental Agency in Mexico As ESSV’s Director of Sales, Julie Byrd, explains, “We’re delighted to have once again received this prestigious designation from Condé Nast Traveler.

Our team takes great pride in customizing the ultimate villa vacation package for each of our clients, whether it’s for a special event or simply a relaxing Los Cabos vacation in a unique setting. Each of our villas is personally inspected by our team to ensure it meets our exacting standards of quality and style.

In keeping with our long tradition of exceptional guest service, we’ve recently announced complimentary airport-to-villa transfers for our guests—and we’ll even deliver their rental car to the villa property.”

ESSV’s villas offer dramatic ocean views, private swimming pools, gourmet kitchens and plush suites—all within convenient distance to the amenities of Cabo San Lucas and environs. Some properties even offer their own putting greens, movie screening rooms and fitness facilities. One includes its own private runway.

For more information about ESSV, visit www.cabovillas.com.

San Jose del C abo

Earth, Sea & Sky Vacations (ESSV), the leading provider of luxury accommodations in Los Cabos, Mexico, is honored to have been recognized for the fourth consecutive year by the highly regarded Condé Nast Traveler as their only villa rental agency honoree in the Mexico travel market.

Each year, Condé Nast Traveler rigorously evaluates villa rental agencies, assessing regional expertise, service, client references and business practices. For 2009, only 49 agencies worldwide made the final cut. The resulting roster represents those villa agencies best qualified to provide luxury travel services to even the most discriminating guests.

Earth, Sea & Sky Vacations has been specializing in high-end Cabo vacations for over 20 years, representing over 140 luxury private villa properties and 50 beachfront resorts throughout Los Cabos.

The company offers in-villa spa and chef services, private jet and yacht charters, tours, golf reservations, fishing charters, ground transportation, a Cabo concierge team, and full event coordination.

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 77

Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur

Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Emergency Phone Numbers Emergencies 066 Fire Department 116 624-143-3577

Photo by Heather Sorenson

Relaxing in Cabo san Lucas

78 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

C

abo San Lucas (aka Los Cabos or San José del Cabo in Mexico, and Cabo in the U.S.) is at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula at 22.88°N 109.90°W, in the state of Baja California Sur. As of the 2005 census, the population was 56,811. It is the largest community in Los Cabos, and the second-largest in Baja California Sur. The warmth of the waters, the beauty of its beaches, the abundance of fish, the raucous party atmosphere, a resortstudded Tourist Corrider that stretches between the twin towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo in miles of pristine white beaches, and other qualities is quickly making Cabo San Lucas a high-end vacation destination.

Cabo San Lucas has the largest Marlin tournament in the world. In the winter, pods of whales can be observed in the ocean bearing their calves in the warm waters.

Served by the Los Cabos International Airport for general aviation flights and air taxi service, the town is also a popular port of call for many cruise ships.

Exclusive hotels and gated residential communities attract the rich and famous in this wondrous region known as “The Corridor.” Considered some of Latin America’s top resorts, many of these properties have become havens to Hollywood stars, Fortune 500 CEOs and even the U.S. president during the 2002 Asia-Pacific Economic Conference (APEC).

Cabo San Lucas DIRECTORY

C abo San L ucas

Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur

PLACES TO EAT

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)

Mexican Panchos.........................................................624-143-2891 Ay... Chihuahua...............................................624-143-3280 Baja Cantina....................................................624-143-0225 Margaritaville.................................................624) 143-7401 Mi Casa..........................................................624-143-1933

Police State Police.....................................................624-143-0296 Highway Patrol................................................624-143-3977 Federal Police..................................................624-143-1210

Seafood La Golondrina.................................................624-143-0542 Lorenzillo's......................................................624-105-0212 The Blue Turtle................................................624-143-1118 Villa Serena.....................................................624-145-8244 International Peacocks........................................................624-143-1858

PLACES TO STAY Hotel Bahia Hotel.....................................................624-143-1888 Best Western Cabo Las Flores Hotel................624-143-6199 Casa Pablito....................................................624-143-1971 Hotel and Plaza Los Arcos .............................624-143-0702 Mar de Cortez Hotel........................................624-143-0032 Siesta Suites Hotel..........................................624-143-2773

Medical Alcoholics Anonymous....................................624-147-5516 Ambulances....................................................624-143-4020 Social Security Hospital...................................624-143-1548 Health Center..................................................624-143-0102 Red Cross.......................................................624-143-3300 City Chamber of Commerce...................................624-143-0437 Family Protection............................................624-143-0586 Gas Leaks.......................................................624-143-1292 Marine Harbor Master.................................................624-143-4771 Cabo San Lucas Marina..................................624-143-1766 Utilities TELMEX..........................................................624-143-0001 Tourist Assistance...........................................624-143-0016 Drinking Water................................................624-143-0228 Electric Power Co............................................624-143-0064 Tourism & Immigration Services Public Services...............................................624-143-2786 Immigration....................................................624-146-5229

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Sonora

Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora

Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora

Sonora is one of the 31 federal states of Mexico and is located in the northwest of the country. The Sonoran coastline is 1,208 km long. Sonora borders the state of Chihuahua to the east, Sinaloa to the south and Baja California to the northwest; to the north it shares an extensive border with the U.S. state of Arizona and a shorter one with New Mexico. To its west lies the Gulf of California; the state of Baja California Sur also shares a maritime boundary with Sonora. The state's total perimeter is 2,505 km. Sonora is the second largest state in Mexico, representing 9.2 percent of the nation's total area.

Puerto Peñasco....................... 82 San Carlos.............................. 92

Mexican Salute Photo by Lillian Nelson - 80 80 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com

PUER TO Pe Ăąasco

Puerto PeËœnasco, Sonora

Sonora State Government http://www.gotosonora.com/ Hermosillo Sonora, www.gotosonora.com/hermosilloson-mx.htm. Hermosillo is the capital of the State of Sonora.

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 81

Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora

Puerto Peñasco www.cometorockypoint.com.

PUERTO Peñasco, SONORA, MEXICO

Puerto Peñasco, commonly known among many of its English-speaking visitors as Rocky Point, is a small city of approximately 42,000 people in the northern state of Sonora, Mexico. Located on the shore of the Gulf of California (also known as the Sea of Cortéz), the town is known for its fishing and tourism industries.

It is a popular destination for tourists, particularly those from Arizona, for Puerto Peñasco is nearest beach. This is why it is such a popular Spring Break destination with students from Arizona, New Mexico,

and California. Puerto Peñasco is located in the ‘free zone’ where tourists are not required currently to obtain immigration papers in order to visit. Puerto Peñasco marina has new fuel docks and other boat-related developments as part of the country’s Escala Nautica (Nautical Ladder) efforts, which call for a chain of ‘tourist-class’ marinas sprinkled up and down the Baja coast in an effort to promote nautical tourism.

Puerto Peñasco has two main beach areas. To the west of the Old Port area, there is a wide, flat area known as Sandy Beach. This is the home to several

Get the Guide At:

La Cocina de Ramon Mariscos el Conchal Jerry’s Restaurant-Bar Pollo Lucas Betos Place Home Plate Seafood Aladinos Reggies 8-12 on Sinaloa St Reggies 8-12 on 13th St

Capones Pizza Disenos Furniture Hotel Playa Inn Changos bar Debbies Restaurant Thirsty Parrot Charros JJ’s Cantina

82 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Tienda La Cholla Playa Inn - in the Mirador Sonora Market Viva Mexico Taco Stand Cosmos 2000 Pharmacies Licores el Crucero Restaurant Habana Vieja Boo Bar

Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora

Puerto Peñasco, Sonora

DRIVING DISTANCES Ajo, AZ.................................................94 miles Albuquerque, NM...............................678 miles Caborca, MZ......................................108 miles Guaymas, MX.....................................345 miles Hermosillo, MX..................................270 miles Las Vegas, NV....................................475 miles Los Angeles, CA.................................550 miles Lukeville, AZ........................................68 miles Nogales, MX......................................294 miles Phoenix, AZ........................................215 miles San Carlos, MX..................................357 miles San Diego, CA....................................445 miles San Francisco, CA..............................927 miles Salt Lake City, UT...............................890 miles Sonoyta, MX.........................................66 miles Tucson, AZ........................................ 170 miles Yuma, AZ............................................271 miles large hotel/resorts with more under construction. East of Puerto Peñasco, there is a long coast with several areas, known in parts as El Mirador, Playa del Oro and then Las Conchas, an area of beachfront and nearbeach condos, homes and time-shares.

Puerto Peñasco is in the same time zone as Arizona observes, and does not observe rules for Daylight Saving Time same as Arizona.

GETTING TO PUERTO Peñasco FLYING

No commercial flights. Puerto Peñasco airport supports private and charter flights and AeroCalifa. has initiated air travel; there are flights scheduled to depart Puerto Peñasco to Hermosillo Tuesdays and Thursdays at 1 p.m. and will depart Hermosillo en route to Peñasco at 11:45 a.m. Fares will run between MX$1,300–1,500.

DRIVING

Visitors to the interior of Sonora are now able to drive directly to such cities as Guaymas, San Carlos, Hermosillo, Bahia de Kino, Caborca, Father Kino Missions, Magdalena, and Santa Ana without the timeconsuming process of obtaining a car permit. With the

Puerto Peñasco

Mexico Living Contact Information

Associate Publisher Russ Black 638-113-4591 / russ@mexicoliving.info movement of the “Only Sonora” vehicle checkpoint, visitors to the state will no longer have to obtain a car permit in order to travel south of Nogales. Puerto Peñasco From Phoenix west on I-10 to State Route 85, southbound on SR 85 to Gila Bend.

Gila Bend turn right at a sign stating “Mexico” and “SR 85 South” before McDonalds. Continue southbound on SR 85 through Ajo, Why and the Organ Pipe National Monument to the border at Lukeville, Arizona.

From Tucson, State Route 86 westbound to “Why”, Arizona and go south on SR 85 through Organ Pipe National Monument to the border at Lukeville, AZ. From Yuma, go eastbound on I-8 from Yuma to the SR 85 to Gila Bend (see Gila Bend above).

From Ensenada or San Felipe take the Mexico Route 2 (MR-2) towards San Luis Rio Colorado and continue on MR-2 to Sonoita.

From the border, you will continue southbound two miles to a three-way intersection in Sonoyta. Merge LEFT towards Caborca for one until the road splits into a “Y”, stay to the RIGHT and you’re on your way. Continue southbound approximately fifty miles to Puerto Peñasco.

PUER TO Pe ñasco

Photo by John Pack

Puerto Penasco Marina

THINGS TO DO

Puerto Peñasco has a wide variety of activities available for everyone, from the lazy days relaxing in the sun, to the action filled wild ride. Activities including shopping, scuba diving, sport fishing, sunset cruises, off-road adventures, horseback riding, kayaking, parasailing, watercraft rentals and much more.

HASSLE-FREE SONORA Visitors to the interior of Sonora are now able to drive directly to such cities as Guaymas, San Carlos, Hermosillo, Bahia de Kino, Caborca, Father Kino Missions, Magdalena and Santa Ana without the timeconsuming process of obtaining a car permit.

The “Only Sonora” program, unique in Mexico, allows Americans and Canadians to visit Sonora.

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 83

Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora

Around Town in Puerto Peñasco with ta

by Rita Pizarro and Tom Thomas om & Ri

T

Photo by Rita Pizarro

The heat of the summer is here. August is traditionally the slowest month of the year in Puerto Peñasco. Just a few years ago many restaurants closed down, RV’ers left for cooler locations, fishermen waited for the new season and tourism decreased significantly. It was like a big siesta for the whole town. The new buildings and air-conditioned condos have changed all this. And even though August is still somewhat slower, you can now enjoy the warm ocean and play, sunbathe and relax on the beach, but with the emotional and physical reassurance of knowing that you can go back to your cool air-conditioned condo or beach house. Some of the pluses about visiting in August are discounted prices, ample sitting space in restaurants and large expanses of uncrowded beaches.

This year our summer brought many pleasant surprises, including the visit of our good friend Phyllis Levefre. What started as an intimate dinner between girlfriends welcoming the visit of the founder of the Uncommon Women on Common

Grounds group became a dance party, poetry exchange and art gathering. The Art and Wine Route went through Portofino restaurant with drums and other percussions in what sounded like a grand carnival of warm tropical music. All the people who participated came into the restaurant filling it with life through a lively exchange of music, poetry and art that imbued Puerto Peñasco with variety and culture.

If you visit the Old Port and you have cake cravings or fancy an espresso, you will be delighted to know that a new Candy Cake location is now open. The new Candy Cake is located next to Mary’s Sea Food and they now offer their famous cakes by the slice. They boast a lovely terrace where you can enjoy the most delicious cakes in Peñasco. You can also order a birthday cake or any other cake and they will be sure to meet your every flavor and design whim.

If you drive all the way to the end of Las Conchas you will notice that the first Tessoro building is almost finished. We hear rumors that the delivery of the first unit is coming very soon!

Steve Schwab from Sea Side Reservations had a fabulous birthday party on the July 4 at the Sonoran Sky. It was the perfect location. Wonderful Cajun cuisine was offered by the host. People dined and watched the endless array of fireworks that the major condos of Sandy Beach displayed at the water’s edge. The fresh ocean breeze and good company made it a fantastic gathering.

Kasia Duda’s one-of-a-kind handmade jewelry.

84 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora Kasia Duda, the beautiful model that graces many of our social events with her tall, slender body and exquisite taste, hosted a glamorous jewelry party at Bella Sirena. One-of-a-kind handmade pieces

of jewelry were hot items that evening. Prices are affordable and she can customize her pieces to fit her client’s style; you can email her for customized pieces at mgold@homeplanet.org.

Steve Schwab cooking some great seafood, with the beautiful sunset as a backdrop, at the Sonoran Sky.

PUER TO Pe ñasco

Photo by Rita Pizarro

Phyllis Levefre, Maru Zacatelco and Rita Pizarro enjoying a grand time at Portofino.

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Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora

Puerto Peñasco DIRECTORY ICON Descriptions

- Pool/Spa

- Accept Credit Cards

- Pet Friendly

- Wi-Fi / Internet

- Serves Breakfast

- Kitchen/Restaurant

- Beer/Spirits

# - Map Number

Thirsty Parrot ..........................................636-388-7068 On the Malecon

- Reader Poll Winner

DIALING INSTRUCTIONS: USA to MX Cel Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to Mexico: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) Mexico to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel #) DIALING 800 NUMBER: Some international fees may apply on landlines.

800 DIALING to the US From Mexico (dial 001+) To Dial USA 800....................................................dial 880 To Dial USA 866....................................................dial 883 To Dial USA 877....................................................dial 882 To Dial USA 888....................................................dial 881 IMPORTANT NUMBERS: MX 411 (Spanish only)................................................ 040 Tourist Assistance Hotline........................................... 076 Green Angels (MX toll Free)..................... 1-800-903-0092 Worldwide Emergency No.for Mobile is...................... 112 Emergencies....................................................060 & 066 Sky Medical (from Mexico).................. 001-866-805-9624 Air-E-Vac ........................................... 001-880-321-9522

PLACES TO EAT American Maxs Cafe ..................................................638-383-1011 Breakfast Giuseppe’s Coffee . .....................................638-383-5181 Marios Coffee – On the entrance to the Malecon Charbroiled Chicken Pollo Lucas – Blvd Benito Juarez “under the big Palapa”

Mexican Betos Place ................................................638-383-5198 On the Malecon Old Port #40 Charros Restaurant – Blvd Benito Juarez in the Jim Bur Plaza Cocodrilos ..................................................638-383-6376 La Cocina de Ramon – Ave FCO Gonzales Boca Negra #261 La Curva . ...................................................638-383-3470 Manny’s Beach Club ...................................638-383-3605 Viva Mexico Taco stand just off the Malecon Fundadore Pizza Augustin’s Pizza and Wings..........................638-383-1699 13th Street in front of Kenos Capones Pizza – Sinaloa Street next to Playa Inn Steak & Seafood Bestos Place................................................638-114-3917 El Conchal Seafood......................................638-383-8173

Friendly Dolphin ..........................................638-383-2608 Jerrys Restaurant – On the Malecon Old Port Lighthouse . ................................................638-383-2389 Latitude 31 Rest. & Sports Bar.....................638-383-4311 Mariscos el Conchal – Blvd Benito Juarez #79

PLACES TO STAY RV Park/Parque de RV Bonita RV Park.............................................638-383-1400 Rentals/Se Rente Casa Monica Cholla Bay...............................638-382-5147 Bed & Breakfast with First Class Accommodations on the Beach in Cholla Bay” Go 2 Rocky Point.........................................602-748-4134

Cuban Food Restaurant Habana Vieja............................638-383-6909 Leon de Barra #161 and Guillermo Prieto -Col Centro International Aladinos Restaurant.....................................638-383-6175 Changos Bar and Cantina.............................638-382-8648 In front of Sonora Spa Debbie’s Restaurant – On the Malecon upstairs Old Port

Motels/Moteles Sonoran Spa Resort.....................................638-383-1044 Playa Inn......................................................638-383-5015

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) ARTIST Marianne Menditto.......................................638-383-7616

86 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

PUER TO Pe ñasco

Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora

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Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora JJ’s Cantina

BARS/CLUBS ............................................ at Cholla Bay

CONTRACTOR PMD Developments......................................638 105-9182 Convienience Stores Reggies 8-12 – On Sinaloa Street across from Playa Inn Reggies 8-12 – On 13th Street and Luis Encinas

BooBar........................................................683-476-2665

Tienda La Cholla – In Cholla Bay DEVELOPMENTS/FRACCIONAMIENTOS ..............................................638-388-7194 Bella Vista "Parayso" Desembembogue Devept..............638 388-5707 CAR RENTAL/alquiler de autos The Point Rent-A -Car..................................638 388-5823 church/iglesia Family of God Christian Fellowship Non-Denominational 044-638- 107-7150 Church Worship Services, Sundays at 9 a.m. Placita Melanie, Suite #211 Blvd. Fremont

DOCTORS/DOCTORES Dr. Luis Vasquez, M.D. ................................638 383-3014 Fire Department/Departamento de Bomberos Fire Department................................... 638-383-2828/068 Fish Markets Home Plate Sea Food – On the Malecon next to Betos Place FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company......... ......................760-494-7053 GSA Corporation.........................................638-388-7632

88 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

PUER TO Pe ñasco

Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora

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Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora Monex Financial...........................................638-388-5764 FURNITURE/Mobiliario Disenos Furniture.........................................638-383-8633 Designs by Eddie Wharez Consign and Design ...................................638-110-6121 Home Furnishings Alexa Home Furnishings...............................638-388-6409

Liquor store/Tienda de licor Licores el Crucero......................................638-388-0578 Blvd Benito Juarez and the train tracks next to Cosmos 2000 LEATHER Manny’s Leather Factory..............................638-388-0609 Rita Pizarro

MASSAGE/MASAJE ........................................... 638-386-5203

MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS Clinica Hospital............................................638-383-2447 City (Municipal) Hospital ............................638-383-2110 Central Clinic .............................................638-383-2110 Hospital IMSS ...........................................638-383-2777 Red Cross . ................................................638-383-2266

Baja Nueva Decorating Studio......................686-211-4676 Custom contemporary furniture & home accessories Serving Rosarito, Ensenada, Puerto Penasco, San Felipe HOME INSPECTIONS Tom Thomas................................................602-748 4134 Immigration Services/Servicios de Inmigración Sun Valley Immigration Services .................638-383-8891 Ask for Bianey or Dynora

Pharmacy/Farmacia Cosmos 2000 Pharmacies....638-383-3896 Blvd Benito Juarez and the train tracks POLICE/POLICÍA City Police Department . ..............................638-383-2626 State Police................................................. 638-383-2783

INSURANCE Services/Servicios de SEGUROS Alejandro Portugal Insurance........................638-383-2390

REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES Baja Lending Co...........................................760-494-7053 Century 21 Cholla Bay ...............................638-382-5147 From the US 602-412-3311 ask for Grechen GretchenEllinger@century21penasco.com

Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)...........686-577-1622 ProAlliance Insurance................................... 638-383-2390

Century 21 Puerto Peñasco USA Office # 480-626-4687

. .................638-388-1295

Puerto Peñasco, Mexico Fremont Blvd., Plaza Palmillas century21penasco.com

Mexico Office # (01152) 638-388-1295

90 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Susie Flinn - Remax Puerto Penasco............638-360-5876 REAL ESTATE SERVICES/servicios DE BIENES RAÍCES Baja Closing & Escrow Services...................686-576-0653

PUER TO Pe ñasco

Puerto Pe˜nasco, Sonora

RECREATION/RECREACIÓN Kayak Rocky Point ................................638-103-2038 Ranas del Mar Ocean tours – At the Marina..638-107-3739 Rocky Point Parasailing................................638-107-5922 www.RockyPointParasailing.com Jet Ski rental, fishing charters Choya Bay at JJ’s Cantina OCEAN SPORTS in Marina San Carlos..........638-226-0696 E mail: deportesoceano@prodigy.net.mx We offer - Scub Diving, Snorkeling, Fishing, Kayaking, Horseback Riding, Margarita Cruises, & Private Charters.

Seamstress/Modista Naomi Black (habla ingles)...........................638-388-5004 naomi@rhipeo.com TEQUILA Manny’s Tequila Factory...............................638-388-0607 Translation / Transducciones Shandra (Sami) Keesecker-Rivero................638-383-8217 www.recursosmexico.com info@recursosmexico.com utilities/empresas de servicios públicos Power Company ..................................638-383-2492/071 Propane .....................................................638-383-2630 Telephone Office .........................................638-383-2288 Water Co. ..................................................638-383-2060

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 91

San Carlos,/SGonora uaymas, Sonora

Guaymas/SanCarlos www.gotosonora.com/ san-carlos-son-mx.htm. an Carlos is a beachfront subdivision within the port city S of Guaymas, in the northern state of Sonora in Mexico.

It is noted for the exceptional clarity and warmth of the ocean

water in its shallow bays. It lies on the body of water known as the Gulf of California or Sea of Cortez. Given the size of the city, with nearly 7,000 inhabitants, there are nine hotels of diverse categories with 567 rooms; 280 RV spaces, two marinas with enough space to berth 570 boats, one 72 par 18 hole golf course and endless natural attractions.

Due to the great diversity of marine species, San Carlos is the best place in the State of Sonora for the sport of diving.

San Carlos is approximately a five-hour drive (241 miles) from the United States on Mexican Interstate Highway 15, 20 minutes from Guaymas, and only an hour from the state capital Hermosillo and an International Airport.

The trip from the United States requires that foreigners obtain a tourist visa. Car permits are only required to travel south of Guaymas.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

FLY TUCSON AIRPORT – grab a cab from Tucson Airport to Tufesa Bus Terminal (5 minutes away), then take a bus from the bus terminal to Guaymas. This is the least inexpensive way to get to San Carlos.

HERMOSILLO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT – 75 miles north of San Carlos. Flights to Tucson, Phoenix, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, as well as most cities in Mexico. If you are close to the border (Tijuana, Ciudad Juarez), check flights leaving out of those airports in Mexico, they are generally cheaper than flights from U.S. cities into Hermosillo. Once in Hermosillo is easy to hop a bus to Guaymas.

GUAYMAS – GENERAL JOSE MARIA YANEX INTERN’L Services at airports in Guaymas is 9am to 7pm. Costly, but close (20 minutes) to San Carlos.

Private planes may land here also. Administrator is Juan Jose Jauregui Kawakita. Tel: +52 (01) 622 1-00-44 +52 (01) 622 1-06-34 +52 (01) 622 1-08-04 More information on private aircraft is available from AOPA at: 1 800/USA-AOPA www.aopa.org/members/resources/international.html Transportation from the airport to San Carlos – the taxi union at the airport has set their fares to a standard rate of $30 usd (300 pesos) from the airport to hotels in town.

Car rental at the Guaymas airport for about $70 usd (700 pesos). Budget Car Rental and Hertz have local offices.

You can catch the San Carlos bus for .70 cents (7 pesos).

It shows up at the airport every hour and will take you into Guaymas where you get off at Ley Shopping Center and can catch a bus back to San Carlos for .90 cents (9 pesos)-not recommended if you have more luggage than you can carry on your own!

San Carlos

Mexico Living Contact Information

Associate Agent Lynn Prince 622-111-2624 / lynnprinceformlg@gmail.com BUS TUFESA bus line runs from Arizona, California and Nevada to Hermosillo. The buses are new and the fares are inexpensive.

Phoenix (602) 415-9900; Tucson (520) 670-1534.

DRIVE From Nogales take Mexico Interstate 15 to Hermosillo. It is a well-paved 4-lane highway. What makes this road unique is their dependence on toll funding rather than taxation to pay the development cost. There are 3 toll booths; Nogales, Magdalena De Kino, and Hermosillo north. You can pay in either USD or pesos.

You must stop at the Kilometer 21 checkpoint and obtain a tourist Visa. Go to the white building marked “tourist permits.”

You will be asked to show your citizenship documents and to fill out a form. Once filled out, the official will stamp it and you are ready to head south to San Carlos.

Breakdowns – The highway is patrolled by Los Angeles Verdes (The Green Angels). If you need assistance dial 078. If your cell phone is not working, raise the hood of your vehicle and they will stop to help you. In an emergency, dial 066 (Sonora’s equivalent of 911).

OTHER INFO: Ferry – Guaymas to Santa Rosalia. Departures: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays & Saturdays 8:00pm. Phone 622-2220204 Mexican Toll Free #01-800-505-5018 U.S. Consulate – in Hermosillo: Monterrey #141 Rosales Street and Galeana Col. Esqueda. Open Mon-Fri 8:00am to 4:30pm Phone: 622-289-3500.

Get the Guide At: La Palapa Griega Greek Restaurant Joyas de Country Long Realty Seaside Tesoro Decoracion Tequila’s Seaside Reservations Paradiso Resort San Carlos Plaza Hotel

92 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

Santa Rosa Market Rosa’s Cantina Piccolo’s Baracuda Bob’s Captains Club Marinaterra Hotel Izzy’s Soggy Peso Bar Remax

SAN CARLOS DIRECTORY DIALING INSTRUCTIONS: USA to MX Cel Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to Mexico: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) Mexico to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel # DIALING 800 NUMBER:

Some international fees may apply on landlines.

800 DIALING to the US From Mexico (dial 001+) To Dial USA 800................................ dial 880 To Dial USA 866................................ dial 883 To Dial USA 877................................ dial 882 To Dial USA 888................................ dial 881 IMPORTANT NUMBERS: MX 411 (Spanish only)............................ 040 Tourist Assistance Hotline....................... 076 Green Angels (MX toll Free).1-800-903-0092 Worldwide Emergency No.for Mobile is.. 112 Emergencies................................060 & 066 Sky Medical (from Mexico).001-866-805-9624 Air-E-Vac ....................... 001-880-321-9522

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) Fire Department/Departamento de Bomberos Fire Department (call Rescate)..................... 622-226-0911

93 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Northwest Mexico

PUER SAN TOCARLOS Pe ñasco

San Carlos Puerto S/anGPC uaymas eñasco arlos, Sonora

Rescue Squad/EMT's (Rescate).................... 622-226-0911 MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS Ambulance.......................662-255-9181 or 662-253-0776 Clinica San Carlos........................................ 622-226-0062 CIMA Hospital.............................................. 662-259-0900 Surgical Medical Center................................ 662-222-0267 POLICE/POLICÍA San Carlos Policia........................................622-226-1400 State Policia.................................................622-226-1540 Commisario Sergio Garcia............................622-226-0004

Real Estate Long Realty Seaside.....................................622-226-2188 Siesta Realty, S.A. De C.V............................622-226-2066 RECREATION OCEAN SPORTS in Marina San Carlos..........622-226-0696 E-mail: deportesoceano@prodigy.net.mx We offer - Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Fishing, Kayaking, Horseback Riding, Margarita Cruises, & Private Charters STORAGE San Carlos Storage Services........................622 226-0866 www.sancarlosstorageservice.com utilities/empresas de servicios públicos Power Company (CFE) ................................622-229 4400 Telmex.............................622-226-0026 or 622-226-0050 Water Co.(CEA)............................................622-226-0909

Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 93

Little things to do while relaxing

Brain Games

Exercising your brain and getting your “laugh on” are two very important requirements of “Living the Good Life.”

Plus, these games and puzzles are great while waiting at the border or terminal. To maximize the benefits of brain exercises you should relax, laugh often, be of good cheer, and stay curious.

94 - The ONLY Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez

June 22

More Great Information

CLASSIFIED ADS

NON BUSINESS ADS ARE FREE up to 20 words, each additional word is $.50. BUSINESS &REAL ESTATE ADS are $0.50 per word. SEND ALL CLASSIFIED ADS TO MEXICOLIVING@GMAIL.COM with “CLASSIFIED ADS” in the subject line. Once your e-mail is received, you will get a confirmation e-mail and invoice returned.

SAN FELIPE, B.C. Sleeps 6, Kitchen fold out bed, futon bed, bonus small child bed (or storage) & full size bed w/private room. Shower, Microwave, new re-built fridge. Interior is in good condition and has been very well maintained, leveling jacks are installed.

001-760-801-7102 or kkrusing@ sbcglobal.net.

REAL ESTATE LISTINGS SAN FELIPE, B.C. Commercial lot - Centrally located 2,500 square meter lot in city with all services. Ideal for offices, supermarket or whatever. Unbelievably priced at $87,600 Dlls. OBO. Out of town owner says sell now. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-577-1244, www.deserthawkproperties.com.

SAN FELIPE, B.C. Playas de San Felipe - Commercial/ Residential property consisting of house and lot on airport highway next to new hotel and sports bar. All city services. Unlimited potential priced at 118,950.00 Dlls.

OBO for both. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-577-1244, www.deserthawkproperties.com.

SAN FELIPE, B.C. Playas de San Felipe - 2,700 s.f. home with pool plus apartments on two lots with all city services.

Tremendous income potential. Needs TLC. Priced at $350,000.00 Dlls. and negotiable. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-577-1244, www.deserthawkproperties.com.

SAN FELIPE, B.C. La Hacienda - Majestic property property overlooking entire development with unobstructed views, pool, two car garage,

caretaker’s quarters, workshop, front and rear garden area, 3 full bathrooms and so much more. At $279,000 Dlls. this is without a doubt San Felipe’s best bargain. Come and take a look and dare to compare. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-577-1244, www. deserthawkproperties.com.

SAN FELIPE, B.C. Villa de las Palmas - New listing! 200 square meter beach view lot surrounded by elegant homes just steps to the beach in a prestigious gated community represented by an active homeowners’ association. Priced at $125,000.00 Dlls. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686- 577-1244, www.deserthawkproperties.com.

SAN FELIPE, B.C. La Hacienda - Elevated lot on second row just reduced from $95,000.00 Dlls. to the unbelievable price of $75,000.00 Dlls. Uninterrupted views forever with plans available. Nothing in this premier development can compare. Take advantage of this bargain. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-577-1244, www.deserthawkproperties.com PUERTO PENASCO, SON Sandy Beach Bella Sirena B 202.

Beautifully furnished and decorated2br/2ba condominium overlooks pool and offers ocean views. Well priced at ONLY $299,000, financing available. View details at www.century21penasco. comContact Century 21 Sun & Sand Jim Ringquistjimringquist@ century21penasco.com Ph: 638-3881295 or 480-626-4687 PUERTO PENASCO, SON Playa Miramar Absolutely Gorgeous beachfront home! 3br/3.5ba, Second story observatory & 2 garages. So many features and offered at only$875,000, Trust & LLC in place. View details at www.century21penasco.com. Contact

Century 21 Sun & Sand Heidi Wosak heidiwosak@century21penasco.com Ph: 638-388-1295 or 480-626-4687 PUERTO PENASCO, SON Puerto Peñasco In Town Opportunity.

This home is a perfect starter home to customize. Lot is 385 sm. View details atwww.century21penasco.com Contact Century 21 Sun & Sand Jaclyn Alasjacalynalas@century21penasco.com Ph: 638-388-1295 or 480-626-4687 PUERTO PENASCO, SON Las Conchas Beachfront Dream Home Reduced For Quick Sale. 3br/2bahome sits on the beach, step off the patio onto the sand. Seawall in place and home is ready for a new owner now! Bring an Offer!

View details at www.century21penasco. com. Contact Century 21 Sun & Sand Brad Henderson brad@century21penasco.com Ph: 638-388-1295 or 480-626-4687

CL ASSI FI ED

FOR SALE

PUERTO PENASCO, SON Sandy Beach Resort Blvd. Parcel For Sale- 1817sm. Perfect for Commercial/ Residential Development, enjoy Views of Ocean & Golf Course. $349,000 Contact Century 21 Sun & Sand Jim Ringquist 638-388-1295 or 480-626-4687.

RENTAL LISTINGS

SAN FELIPE B.C. “Casita for rent at Cantu’s Cove, Winner of Best Beach for two years in a row! Enjoy the Cove and Beach by the day, week or month. Email vcantu@thegrid.net for information.

SERVICE AC/Refrigeration Service and Evaluation by qualified, certified technician. Cell number 686-231-4921.

WORK IN THE MAGAZINE BUSINESS

Mexico Living is looking for motivated individuals for freelance positions in the Rosarito, B.C., Ensenada, B.C., San Felipe, B.C., Mexicali, B.C., Puerto Peñasco, SON., San Carlos, SON. Send inquiries to packmagazines@gmail.com Writers - Do you love Mexico and want to help us spread the word. We’re looking for writers to cover business, real estate, news, local gossip, travel, recreation, arts and entertainment and much more.

Sales - Advertising sales position. Have fun and make money while getting to know people. Great commissions and opportunities. Must be legal to work in Mexico and have Internet access.

Distribution - Manage local and regional routes with twice monthly deliveries. Earn a great income on a part-time bases. Must be legal to work in Mexico and have reliable transportation.

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