No. 31 - www.mexicolivingguide.com
December / diciembre 2009
Baja News & Entertainment
Christmas in Baja ■ Holiday Traditions ■ Unique Gift Ideas ■ Shopping in Baja ■
Plus: ■ Mexico: Gold’s Next Powerhouse Player ■ Snorkeling in the Underwater Playgrounds of Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
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The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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Cabo San Lucas
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San Jose del Cabo
Welcome to Northwest Mexico
Live, Work and Play in Paradise!
T
he Mexican states of Baja California, Baja California Sur and Sonora make up Northwest Mexico as covered by our guide. The region features an enormous diversity of landscapes like no place on earth—a land of quiet, colorful deserts, endless beaches, majestic mountains, forests, unexplained rock formations, brilliant clear skies, an average temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit and some of the most welcoming people in the world. Northwest Mexico is the destination of choice for retirees, investors, entrepreneurs, travelers and vacationers alike. The U.S. State Department says that more Americans retire in Mexico than any other place on the globe; 51 percent of all U.S. retirees who live outside of the U.S. live in Mexico. Mexico is economical; the dollar goes further here than it does in Europe, Canada and the most popular destinations of Asia. The people of Mexico are accustomed to Americans and vice versa. Mexico welcomes American retirees and tourists and is increasingly prepared to offer the foods, goods and services that Americans like and expect. Whether you’re looking to retire, invest, vacation or operate a business, Northwest Mexico is the place. We hope our guide helps you to enjoy Northwest Mexico to the fullest. Explore! visitmexico.com
WHAT DO I NEED? Passport. On June 1, 2009, the U.S. government implemented the full requirements of the land and sea phase of WHTI. The new rules require most U.S. citizens entering the United States at sea or land ports of entry to have a passport, passport card or other travel document approved by the Department of Homeland Security. Additional information can be found at: http:// travel.state.gov/passport. What can I bring into Mexico? As you approach the border, there are generally multiple lanes labeled “Nothing to Declare - Nada que Declarar” and “Declaration Lane - Carril de Declaración.” Nothing to Declare Lane This lane is used when you are bringing, as a tourist (FMT) $75 or less. Your personal luggage and other merchandise up to the allowed exemption US$75 per person. The amount is cumulative per number of people in the vehicle. For example two people would have a $150 exemption. You must have receipts and invoices to qualify for the exemption. Personal Items Allowed: • New or used such as clothes, shoes and toiletries in quantities that would be considered not for resale. • Two photographic or video cameras and charger. • Two cellular phones or walkie-talkies. • Laptop, notebook, etc. • Two sports equipment items. • Portable radio recorder and/or player, speakers and accessories. • Five laser discs, 10 DVDs, 30 CDs or cassette tapes. Five storage devices or memory cards. • Books and magazines in quantities that would be considered not for resale. • Five toys, video game console and video games. • Medicine for personal use, one blood pressure instrument, one glucose testing device. In the case of psychotropic drugs, make sure you bring the prescription. Note: Be careful not to bring a large
quantity of your prescription medication. • One set of binoculars, one telescope. • Two cartons of cigarettes, 25 cigars or 200 grams of tobacco if you are of age (if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties). • Up to three liters of liquor and six liters of wine (if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties). • Strollers and baby walkers. • Two musical instruments and accessories. • Tent and equipment for camping. • Crutches, canes, walkers and wheelchairs for personal use. • Tool sets including hand drills, wire cutters, wrenches, screwdrivers, cables, etc. • Bedding sets including one sheet set, one towel set, a set of table linens. • Two dogs or cats and pet items. • Up to $10,000 in U.S. currency or equivalent in other currencies, foreign or national checks, and/or other monetary instruments. Declaration Lane ($75–$1,000) If you are bringing more than US$75 worth of merchandise per person, but not more than US$1,000, you may declare it by driving into the customs facility through the declaration lane (carril de declaración). There you will be able to fill out the proper documents and pay any duty. Duty can be between 15 percent and 25 percent of the value of the merchandise. IMPORTANT NOTES: • Guns are illegal in Mexico. Do not attempt to cross the border with a gun and/or ammunition. You will be put in jail even if you were not aware of the Mexican law. • If you have more than $10,000 in U.S. currency or equivalent, or other monetary instruments, you must declare this with Mexican customs, otherwise it is a crime. • You must declare if you are bringing any animals, agricultural products or medicines for other than personal use.
• Amounts over US$1,000 require the use of a Mexican customs broker. WHAT CAN I TAKE HOME? You can take home US$800 of duty-free merchandise per person, per month, including one liter of alcohol. Mexican arts and crafts, including handcrafted furniture, are duty-free and do not count toward the $800 limit. TOURIST VISA Tourists staying 72 hours or less within “the border zone” do not need a visa. Those traveling beyond the border zone or entering Mexico by air must pay a fee to obtain a tourist card, also known as an FMT, available from Mexican consulates, Mexican border crossing points, Mexican tourism offices, airports within the border zone and most airlines serving Mexico. The fee is generally included in the price of a plane ticket for travelers arriving by air. Please note that travelers not in possession of their FMT card at the point of exit from Mexico may face a fine from Mexican Immigration. VEHICLE PERMITS Tourists traveling with their vehicle beyond the border zone north of Ensenada, San Felipe or Puerto Peñasco must obtain a temporary import permit or risk having their vehicle confiscated by Mexican customs officials. MILITARY CHECKPOINTS There are military checkpoints along the way to all the northwest border cities. These checkpoints serve the same purpose as the California and Arizona highway inspection stops you’ll encounter on the return north. The soldiers will be carrying weapons, but there is nothing to be concerned about, the soldiers are looking for drugs and guns. You’ll find them to be polite and friendly. They may ask to look inside your vehicle or RV. Checkpoints on both sides of the border were established based on an agreement between the United States and Mexico to fight the war on drugs.
VOTING ENDS DECEMBER 4th CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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Christmas Memories
As a child, I couldn’t wait to write my letter to Santa, which, of course, included my “wish list.” But, my favorite memories are the letters FROM Santa. He replied to each and every one. Somehow he always knew what I did that could potentially put me on his “naughty” list; however, he told me if I continued to be good the rest of the year that he would forgive me. Wow . . . Santa really does know everything and is quite serious about that “naughty and nice” list! That was then . . . now, as an adult, there are two other things that I look so forward to during this holiday season. The first is hearing from friends and family that I haven’t seen or talked to in a while. One of my favorites . . . now, before you laugh, I’m serious . . . is getting Christmas letters. After reading a letter, it always makes me take a few minutes to call them. We reminisce and it unlocks old memories lost in the back of our minds, and ensures we stay in touch for at least another year. Forgetting all the hustle and bustle of this hectic time of
“Take the time to create new
the year, my second favorite part is that people become so generous during this holiday season. A great example was just last Christmas. My friend’s husband was laid off, she had a part-time job, and they had five kids. She was at the grocery store and a man asked if she would buy a turkey for him. There was a limit per customer and he had a big family coming for the holiday dinner, and he noticed that she did not have a turkey in her cart. He gave her the money for it said he’d meet her outside. She finished her shopping and went outside to wait for him. After about 10 minutes, she realized that there were a couple of other women with a cart full of groceries, and they were obviously looking for someone. They were all waiting on the same man. After 20 minutes, they decided he wasn’t coming back and they had to get home. The next day, the news reported that a man went to almost every store in town buying turkeys for what he considered needy families. This Secret Santa’s identity is still unknown. Now, that’s a holiday memory that will be hard to forget! Take the time to create new holiday memories this year . . . it can be something as simple as giving a letter to friends and family, or something as elaborate as becoming a Secret Santa. No matter how you choose to create your memories, be sure to enjoy this magical season, and have a SAFE and Happy New Year!
holiday memories this year . . .
as giving a letter to friends and family, or something as elaborate
”
P.S. As always, I’m interested in hearing from you, what you think of Mexico Living and any ideas or comments you may have to improve YOUR GUIDE TO THE GOOD LIFE. So, send your suggestions and comments to editor@ mexicoliving.info.
U.S. Toll-free: (800) 395-9019 Ex.3 San Diego, CA: (619) 550-2730 San Felipe, BC: (686) 230-9933 Published by John Benjamin Pack Publisher/Editor John Pack john@mexicoliving.info Publisher Rachel Pack rachel@mexicoliving.info Editor, Brenda Judy, editor@mexicoliving.info
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Mexico City, DF: (558) 421-4027 Website: www.mexicolivingguide.com Email: info@mexicoliving.info
Regional Sales Manager Lisa Shannon, lisa@mexicoliving.info Regional Sales Associates Rosarito Beach, Rachel Pack, rachel@mexicoliving.info Ensenada, Kris Clark, bajamexicoliving@gmail.com San Felipe, Bill Maine, billmaine@gmail.com Baja California Sur, Rachel Pack, rachel@mexicoliving.info Distribution Regional, Carlos Durán San Felipe, Bill Maine, San Felipe
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it can be something as simple
as becoming a Secret Santa.
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MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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Your one-stop Baja 411 resource for finding people, products and services in your area.
Mexico Living is a guide committed to promoting Northwest Mexico to the limits of our abilities and to provide a valuable resource to visitors and residents, while showing that Northwest Mexico is a great place not only to visit and play, but also to live and work—a place to call home.
Writers Steve Dryden, Carlos Durán, Benjamin Eugene, Steven Forman, Rosie Glover, Bob Ham, Lynn Hamman, Stockton Hill, La Huerita, Lucy E. Jackson, Anita Kaltenbaugh, David Mandich, Penny Nask, John Pack, Rachel Pack, Rita Pizarro, Lynn Prince, Lisa Shannon, June Snow, Christa Thomas, Cai Tierra and Robin Waters. Production Layout, Carolyn Sheltraw, info@csheltraw.com
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Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher. All contributors and advertisers assume responsibility and liability for the accuracy of their statements and claims. All readers assume responsibility for actions or decisions they might make as a result of reading this publication. We reserve the right to refuse any advertising.
Mailbag At Kiki’s in San Felipe
By now, we are out of Mexico and are settled in Tucson for the winter. We sure enjoyed our vacation in Baja—we’ll be back! We can see why people like San Felipe and the whole of the Baja for that matter. We went to the National Park at Sierra de San Pedro Martir on our way north. We stayed at Meling Ranch and thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience. We saw Mexico Living in lots of places, and people we talked to sure seemed to like it. Good luck with everything! —Cheri and Ray, Tucson, AZ
Cheri and Ray, thank you for letting us know how much you enjoyed your vacation in Baja. Hope to see you again next year!
Mexican Attorney Agrees
Thanks for the fresh and informative reporting about Americans owning real estate in Mexico and enjoying the benefits and avoiding the pitfalls. I am a Mexican lawyer living in La Mision; my practice stretches up and down the peninsula. Along with my gringo husband, I am truly enjoying the good life here in paradise. —Pilar Villazón, Ensenada
OP-ED
Pilar, it’s nice to hear that Mexicans agree with our reports. Thanks so much for taking the time to let us know.
Tijuana Sterilization Programs
I just happened across a copy of the April edition. I found an article, “Animal Advocate Edward Coward of Tijuana Cannot Do it Alone!” The article states that “it doesn’t appear that Tijuana has a consistant ongoing surgery program, which is critical to population control.” Tijuana does have sterilization programs, and has had for years! The Give Some Life Foundation has sterilized thousands of pets and street dogs for FREE for over 10 years, in six northern Baja cities, including Tijuana. The Humane Society of Tijuana, www.hstj.org, also holds FREE monthly spay/neuter clnics and FREE mange and tic clinics. They take their clinics to Tijuana’s poorest neighborhoods every month and have been active in the city for about five years. I am a writer specializing in Baja animal issues, and would be happy to share news of the wonderful things happening in pet rescue in Tijuana and Rosarito. —Marlene Dunbar, Rosarito
Marlene, I know that the author of that article already personally apologized for any misinformation given in that report. However, the publishers and I would like to extend our apologies as well. In addition, please, feel free to send news and articles to editor@mexicoliving.info.
Kudos
s U d n e S k c a b d ee F As always, we’re interested in your HONEST feedback. So, send your opinions and comments to editor@ mexicoliving.info. Letters may be edited for length and content. Make sure to visit us online or pick up a copy of next month’s edition to find out what others REALLY THINK!
I have been meaning to write and thank the publishers as well as compliment your contributors. I so much enjoy each and every month, and the new look and feel is simply wonderful! Thank you again for all that you do! —Nina Joy and Family, Puerto Peñasco Nina, thank you! We’ll definitely pass along the “kudos” to all of our contributors.
S o . . . W h at d o You R E A L L Y Thin k ?
Bad Drugs submitted by Ellis Glazier
The October edition is the first issue of your paper that I have seen. Much of it is interesting and worthwhile, though I had wished you might have sung the praises of both the Seguro Social Health Service and that pharmaceuticals are much cheaper here than in the States, especially when bought at Farmacia Similares or at the ISSSTE Farmacia. Of course, those of us in the national health service plan do not need to pay for our drugs, but we do for our pets and at Similares they are cheap. I would not ever put too much hope in the ability of using Medicare in Mexico. That has been being worked on for at least 10 years, probably more, and little progress has been made. I doubt that anyone in congress would support that, considering they seemingly do not give a damn about those millions of citizens living in the U.S. who have no health care. However, what I do care very much about are any of the health scams that are perpetrated on unsuspecting and ill-informed people who spend their time and effort and a lot of cash giving money to charlatans such as the one advertising in your paper, and getting a blurb looking like a legitimate news item right next to the advert. There is no such thing as an anti-aging serum, nor do most of the items listed in the ad itself have any
use in human health. All of them are scams to extract money and have no redeeming value. By the way, that is the U.S. Supreme Court’s definition of obscenity. I know your purpose is to do your job and to make money selling your paper or from the ads, but it would be worthwhile to avoid the obvious crooks who prey on the unknowing, the unknowlegeable and the gullible, of which there are hordes. Those of us who watch U.S. TV see deceptive ads all the time, such as the Campbell Soup ad noting they use sea salt and, therefore, have lower sodium content; though one does know that all salt is sea salt, whether gotten by evaporation of sea water at guererro negro or mined in the middle of the U.S., and that the lower sodium if true is on the order of an insignificant few tenths of a percent with the remainder salts of other metals. That is a deceiving but relatively harmless ad. An anti-aging serum injected into your body probably is a much more serious thing—not
knowing what is being injected and what bad effects it could have on any individual, including killing the injectee. Even our safest and most tested vaccines, and most necessary ones that we used to eradicate smallpox and infantile paralysis have had that serious effect in some people, not many, but it did happen for we are all not identical. Now here we have criminals injecting an unknown, untested, unproved substance into humans for profit only. The results at best are none, the worst death. One could hope that all they are using is sterile water, and sterile needles. As the owners and editors, you must assume some of the responsibility and might find that out in a big hurry if one who is hurt decides to include you in the wrongful hurt or death suit. The world has become a litigious society and no one is really out of bounds anymore.
The opinions expressed in the OP-ED section are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher or editor. Opinions are published to allow you, the reader, to decide. However, I would just like to take a moment to clarify a few statements made. We did not run anything on IMSS or the farmacies because we have already ran those stories. You can view all back issues at www.mexicolivingguide.com. Mexico Living does not investigate every advertiser; however, we do our best to ensure “false” news or anything that may cause harm is not included in our guide. It is up to the consumer to consult their physician and do research before considering any medical procedure. Good advice is to be smart and don’t believe every “elixir” salesman. —Brenda Judy, Editor
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MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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Top Stories, Local Updates and Mexican News in English
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T I J UA NA 343 Pounds of Sea Cucumbers Seized at Border Customs officials say they seized 343 pounds of sea cucumbers at a San Diego border crossing as smugglers tried to bring the Asian culinary delicacy into the U.S. from Mexico. Inspectors found the undeclared sea cucumbers in a minivan at the San Ysidro port of entry. The oblong marine animals were hidden in the luggage of two Chinese citizens, a 51-year-old man and his 24-year-old son. The two were fined $15,264, and their U.S. visas were canceled. Sea cucumbers are eaten in soups in Asia, where they are harvested from the ocean bottom and dried. They go for about $45 per pound in the U.S.
ROSARITO U.S. Rotary Sponsors Event To Show the Region Is Safe The Rotary Club of Cambria, California, co-sponsored with its Rosarito counterpart on Nov. 14 beach maintenance day—but its main purpose was to show this area is safe for U.S. visitors. They’re hoping events like this and others they’re planning will help spread a more accurate perception in the U.S. Rosarito Beach Mayor Hugo Torres praised the Cambria club’s effort and expressed his gratitude. For information on future events, including lodging discounts, contact Jack George at jeg925@yahoo.com or, in the U.S., Bruce Howard at bruce@ brucehowardrealtor.com. 6
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Mexico’s PRI Won’t Approve Calderón’s 2 Percent Tax Plan Mexico’s Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI), the largest party in the lower house of Congress, won’t accept President Felipe Calderón’s proposal for a 2 percent consumption tax to fight poverty on Oct. 19, the Finance Ministry said. Progress was achieved in talks on the majority of Calderón’s proposals, excluding the sales tax, the Finance Ministry’s Public Credit Department said in an emailed statement. The tax, which would be used to fund social programs, is part of a package of proposals
submitted to legislators on Sep. 8, along with the 2010 budget. Calderón is seeking spending cuts, a wider deficit and tax increases as revenue falls because of declining oil output and the global economic slowdown. The PRI and the department are continuing discussions and analyzing fiscal alternatives, according to the statement.
Photo of President Felipe Calderón
Baja Governor Wants More Details About Deported Felons The governor of Baja California pressed Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger Tuesday to offer his state more details about Mexicans released from California prisons and deported into Mexico. “What interests us is the biometric information—the faces, fingerprints and the information on file about what they’ve done in the United States,” Governor Jose Guadalupe Osuna Millan said in Spanish in a talk with reporters before meeting with Schwarzenegger at the Capitol. The two governors signed agreements on a range of shared border interests, including mutual
aid to fight swine flu and fires, improvement of food safety and the possible supply of Baja wind energy to California. Osuna Millan said federal and state authorities in Baja could benefit from details about deported felons so they can identify fugitives wanted within Mexico and deportees with ties to organized crime that plagues both countries. Such information now is shared only in cases involving the most notorious deportees. Mexican media reports, he noted, have documented how some deported prisoners have committed crimes in Tijuana and other cities where they were dropped off.
Dog Roundups Need To Stop!
Americans are Outraged by San Felipe’s Cruel Approach to Population Control by Steven Forman, Founder of ZAPP I’m really angry and I’ll tell you why. A woman came up to me with tears in her eyes to report that she was completely traumatized by having to witness five dog catcher trucks leaving San Felipe, each one full of innocent animals that were destined for euthanasia in Mexicali. Americans contribute greatly to this community throughout the year, and we continue to voice our opinions about how we feel about the mistreatment of dogs. These roundups are totally disrespectful to Americans and what we believe in. I understand that we live in a foreign country, but the Americans that live here respect our Mexican neighbors and everything they believe in—so why is there such a blatant disregard of this issue? Why do we have to witness trucks speeding through our streets, lassoing dogs and tossing them ruthlessly onto trucks, where they are then taken off to be killed?
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
Another ZAPP supporter called that afternoon to report that dog catchers went on her friend’s property and removed her pet from her front porch. The lady was beside herself, as you can well imagine, and then had to go to Mexicali and pay to get her pet back. The ZAPP Animal Center will be open in the next few weeks and we will work hard to remove all these “at risk” animals from our streets and deserts. If officials feel the need to continue roundups, then we ask that these animals be delivered to our site, where we can proceed with adoption and relocation, spaying and neutering, and transition into the States. Officials need to be aware however, that we will never again pay for the animals’ release, but we will accept them with open arms. For more information, email bajaanimalrescue@ yahoo.com.
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Baja California Governor Jose Guadalupe Osuna Millan
Animalandia Clinic in Loreto a Success by Lynn Hamman
Another successful clinic was held on November 2–3. This was a short clinic; however, 50 animals were spayed/neutered. Two first-time veterinarians to Loreto, Lance and Abby, volunteered for this clinic, thanks to the efforts of Carol Boyd. We’re hoping these two wonderful people, Lance and Abby, will return in the near future. Liz Bracken, a newcomer to Loreto (vet in the States), dropped by and neutered some cats for us. A big thanks to Liz! Also, a big thanks to our volunteers. You are so appreciated. Next clinic will be held the second week of January. More information will be sent later. Thank you all for your help and continuing support.
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Baja’s Deep-Water Port Gets Resurrected Mexican officials are reviving plans for a deepwater shipping port located on the Baja California coast 65 miles south of Ensenada, Mexico, at Punta Colonet, a sparsely populated town of about 2,500 people. The project came to a halt because of the global economic downturn but Mexico’s Ministry of Communications and Transportation published new bidding specifications this week for companies seeking to build and operate the port and the rail line that would move cargo shipped in from other nations. The ministry’s announcement resurrects one of the proposed routes that would bring the rail line up from Punta Colonet through the Ensenada area, up
San Diego to Assist In Training New Tourist Police
through San Felipe, Baja California, then east to San Luis Rio Colorado in Sonora, where it would turn and cross the border east of Yuma on the way to the United States. This could be very good news for those who care about conservation in Baja California. The construction of a megaport in Punta Colonet would change the Baja California coastline forever. It would mean the development of hundreds of miles of coastline north and south of the port; the construction of a port larger than Los Angeles port will bring a migration flux of thousands of people with the subsequent enormous need for services, housing and natural resources.
The San Diego Police Department will help train members of a new Mexican metropolitan tourist police force that will patrol from Tijuana to Ensenada. The training agreement was formalized in a letter of intent signed Monday at San Diego City Hall by Mayor Jerry Sanders and mayors of the Baja California cities of Tijuana, Rosarito and Ensenada. The new force will patrol primarily the 50-mile coastal tourist corridor from the U.S.Mexico border to Ensenada. The goal is to have the force in operation by early next year.
s e k a T s r a e p S y e Britn o c i x e M in n o i t a c a V
Riding high on the success of her new single “3,” the songstress
headed south of the border with her sons Sean Preston and Jayden James last month, carving out some much-deserved vacation time in Mexico. She made sure to show the world what she’s got—in a tiny black bikini.
Torres said that visitors always have been safe in Baja but the new metropolitan tourist police would help make them feel more comfortable, secure and welcome. Rosarito in 2008 started its own 30-member tourist police force, a special city department for attention to tourists, an ombudsman’s office to assist visitors and now issues bilingual traffic tickets that can be mailed in with fines from the U.S.
ENSENADA Mexican Banks Support Condo Construction
¿Qué Pasa Puerto Peñasco? by Rita Pizarro
December is here, time to get ready for the holidays and the end of another year, time to make new plans and goals for 2010. But don’t wait until the new year to start with your good intentions: the holidays are a great time to give to those who have less. There are many charities in town dedicated to bringing a brighter Christmas to those in need. Anything you give, including your time, will make a positive difference in someone else’s life. If you want to make a donation of any kind or volunteer, email Maru at maruza@yahoo. com. One of the biggest international festivals, held in the state of Guanajuato since 1972 to promote cultural and artistic communication, came for the first time to Peñasco: The International Cervantino Festival. We had several entertainers, a coral group, exhibits from local artists, and Orquesta Tipica Fernandez Fierro from Argentina and Egiptanos, an ensemble formed in 2003 by various gypsy families. After this year’s
success we expect this festival to continue in a much larger scale in the coming years. The 4th Annual San Peregrino Walk for Hope to Cancer patients gathered a large group of people; many that have survived cancer and others who have lost loved ones to cancer walked from The Church of Guadalupe to the Malecon where luminaries were lit in honor of those who have lost their lives. A non-denominational ceremony followed and volunteers helped arrange the candlelights with the ribbon that symbolizes the fight against cancer and the word HOPE spelled in English and in Spanish. It was a beautiful, touching event and the funds collected will help build a hospice that is greatly needed. Our good friend, Maru Zacatelco, had a beautiful and fun baby shower at Giuseppi’s Espresso where guests were treated to a soup and salad bar, entrées and a cake by acclaimed Chef Mickey. Maru received several cute presents, including a diaper cake and a pizza
Development plans for luxury properties in Baja, Mexico, are moving forward, despite the slowing pace of construction across the border.
The luminaries at the Malecon after the 4th Annual San Peregrino Cancer Walk
made out of baby blankets. She looked adorable in her purple dress and can’t wait to have Little Michael in her arms! Tradition lives in Peñasco and this past Day of the Dead there were several demonstrations of this ancient tradition. The Public Library had an altar contest that turned the entire parking lot into a cemetery! Have a Wonderful Holiday Season and Very Prosperous 2010!
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American developer CDDG recently announced that it received financing approval to complete construction on The Residences, a beachfront condominium, villa and penthouse complex with six spas, two swimming pools and a nine-hole putting green. Banorte Bank, one of the top banks in Mexico, funded the deal, confident that peninsula region will only continue to attract visitors and homeowners in coming years. La Elegancia, a 19-floor tower with rooftop pool and movie theater, is also working with Banorte to wrap up construction within a year. About 65 percent of the project’s 109 units have already been sold.
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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Around Town in Loreto with Lynn Hamman
The bank is also helping to untangle the complicated title and trust processes for Las Palmas condos in Rosarito.
Let’s Zumba! Certified Instructor Erika Plascencia is teaching the classes here in Loreto. WOW! If you haven’t tried Zumba, which is sweeping north and south America, you should! Erika’s classes are Monday through Friday, 8 a.m., 9 a.m., 5 p.m., 6 p.m. and 7 p.m. She teaches all the classes and can really move. If you are uncoordinated like some of us, she takes the time to make sure you “get it.” Some of us planted Loretanos like Barbara Jordan, Birdie Culver, Sue Grace, Barbara Jones and Diane Brodwolf (and many more) join in for a real workout. No age requirement . . . young and old are welcome. The classes take place off Independencia behind the Al-Anon building between Padre Kino and B. Juarez. Cost is only 50 pesos per week! Just show up, sign in and take off those pounds. Loreto was founded on October 25, 1697, and every year the city celebrates this event with great gusto! There are a lot of activities from performances by the local children and adults to displays by GEA headed up by
LO S C A B O S Five People Rescued After Sailboat Capsizes
On the scene, the helicopter crew found the five people in a life raft and hoisted them into the helicopter.
Good Deeds to Good Times in San Felipe
The Baha Ha Ha is a sailboat race from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. The cause of the accident is under investigation. Gale force winds were fierce in the area where the accident occurred.
SONORA Mexican Farm Leader and 14 Others Killed
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October marked the beginning of the great fall activities in San Felipe. The Flying Samaritans were in town on October 16 to have an eye clinic for residents who wouldn’t be able to otherwise afford eye care. There were several surgeries and follow-up procedures done, as well as prescription eye glasses. Lighthouse Restaurant hosted a Miss/Ms. Tequila Pageant. Miss Tequila and Miss Lighthouse were local girls from San Felipe. The Ms. Tequila Pageant was held the following week and featured many members of the San Felipe Ladies Yacht Club. Ms. Tequila is Joyce Holt and Ms. Lighthouse is Kathy Jo Preppernau. All the ladies are winners in our book! They were truly amazing! Agave Blues had their biggest night ever the night of October 9! Standing room only for this band, who can be seen each Friday at the JollyMon from 6:30–10:30 p.m. JollyMon also features
the music of Vatos Locos after their summer hiatus every Saturday night from 6–10. The Lighthouse Tequila Festival was October 23–24 and featured some AWESOME Tequila. You can still get your tequila barrels at the Lighthouse with their very own brand of Tequila inside. Contact them for more information. Halloween was a BLAST out north, with Mac and Nan’s Karaoke Halloween Party at Playa de Oro. The winners of the costume contest won 500 pesos! Latin Garden hosted Denny Flannigan’s Halloween Bash, which was also a packed event. Great food prepared by Jesus Camargo was served buffet style, and if you came in costume, you got a free drink! They also had several costume contests. JollyMon had Vatos Locos playing their tunes all through the night, with Rick Rudd in DRAG! He was surely a looker! Be sure to see Baja Boys at La Vaquita on Friday nights. Wednesday night you can see Tom and Al’s 2AM at JollyMon. See what I mean? There is so much to do in this town! Happy Holidays, everyone!
Photo by Lisa Shannon
The leader of a Mexican farmworkers’ organization and 14 other people were killed in a mass shooting in the northern Mexico state of Sonora. Victims include farm leader Margarito Montes, 10 other men, one woman and three minors. Most were believed to be Montes’ relatives or employees. Montes was the leader of the General Popular Union of Workers and Farmers, which claims tens of thousands of members, mostly in southern Mexico. Local news media reported that Montes had led peasant and squatters’ movements involved in land seizures and that his group has sometimes had violent clashes with rival claimants to land.
(on the left) Kent Brodwolf.
One of the local vendors with Martina Ozuna.
Photo by Heather Penrod and Victor Rodriguez
The Coast Guard received a distress signal from the Crosswave, a 40-foot sailboat homeported at Marina Village in Alameda. The boat and its crew were participating in the Baha Ha Ha race shortly after 10 a.m. when they hit trouble.
Photo by Randy Hamman.
A helicopter crew from U.S. Coast Guard Air Station San Diego rescued five Bay Area sailors after their sailboat capsized 197 miles southwest of San Diego on Oct. 28.
Fernando Arce. Vendors line our main street of Salvatierra by the Mission and have everything from tacos, tamales, water-color paintings, jewelry, handmade kitchen towels . . . you just name it. Everything was made or prepared by locals. My favorite this year was a family from Santa Cruz, a small village south of Loreto close to Agua Verde in the hills. The entire family was here to sell their handmade “servilletas” . . . while continuing to make more. This year’s event was very successful and enjoyed by all. There were many places to go for Halloween . . . Stroker’s Reef, Augie’s Bar, La Mision Hotel, Giggling Dolphin, Black & White, just to name a few. You just had to show up in a costume and get a free drink and food at most establishments. Lots of music, great food and the costumes were very creative. Contests for best costume were held at each place. First Place goes to the “Good Witch”
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Ms Tequila Pageant
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
Vatos Locos
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{{News feature}
Gold’s Next Powerhouse Player by Marc Davis
As the world’s key gold producing nations struggle mostly in vain to replenish dwindling below-ground supplies, Mexico is bucking the trend in a big way. That’s right. It’s not a typo. We are indeed talking about gold, not silver. Even factoring in the world’s other emerging gold producing nations, Mexico still stands head and shoulders above the crowd. In fact, only Mexico has experienced impressive year-on-year production growth over the last decade. This has culminated in an almost doubling of output since 1998 to 1.59 million ounces last year. No other nation comes close to matching such a promising statistic. It is worth noting that global gold output hit an all-time high of 68.83 million ounces in 1999. Yet, worldwide production last year represented an almost 20 percent shortfall at 55.30 million ounces, which clearly illustrates a troubling trend. The situation has been exacerbated by the fact that the world’s top trio of gold producers— South Africa, the U.S. and Australia—are losing their luster. In fact, they have seen their combined output slump even more precipitously than elsewhere over the last decade. Dropping from 35.12 million ounces to 21.66 million ounces in 2008; this amounts to a 62 percent slide.
This is all the more problematic for the mining industry when considering the fact that gold prices have more than tripled over the last decade. This represents a decline in revenues of around US$14 billion (based on current bullion spot prices). Yet, there’s nothing but “blue sky” upside for Mexico’s ever-expanding gold mining industry. Especially since only about 15 percent of this mining-friendly, geologically fertile nation has ever been systematically explored for the yellow metal. This is largely because the country’s foreign investment laws were prohibitively restrictive for centuries until it signed the North American Free Trade Agreement in the early 1990s. Only then did Mexico finally adopt transparent mining legislation that offers a level playing field to foreign investors, which is also sweetened with plenty of business incentives, such as a very competitive corporate tax structure. This pivotal development ushered in a modernday Gold Rush that now involves over 250, mostly Canadian, foreign companies with at least 600 projects underway—the vast majority of which were financed on Toronto’s two mining-oriented stock exchanges. And, at least US$6.5 billion in mining investment has poured into Mexico in 2008–2009 alone. Further reinforcing Mexico’s ascendancy to the prestigious ranks of the world’s leading gold producers is the fact that 2010 promises to be a banner year. (Figures for 2009 are obviously not yet available but are expected to reveal yet another boost over the year before, albeit a modest one). In fact, output is expected to jump by an additional 860,000 ounces next year, representing a 54 percent increase over 2008’s figure. However, it must be noted that Mexico is by no means one of the most prolific producers in the world—at least not yet. Its output in 2008 was eclipsed by the world’s top three producers, as well as Peru, which earned fourth place at 5.78 million ounces. Mexico’s production last year was also still well below Canada (3.04 million ounces) and Ghana (2.58 million ounces). It is now jostling for position a short distance behind with only about half a dozen
other emerging gold producing nations—all of whom have more or less comparable production numbers. Yet, while Mexico’s annual output is accelerating, the other players are showing signs of fatigue, as demonstrated by their mostly unvarying year-on-year output figures or by numbers that are clearly falling off the pace. So how is Mexico managing to reinvent itself as a high-octane gold producer after being so synonymous with silver mining for the past five centuries? Well, a number of North America’s high-flying gold producers and legions of junior gold explorers are increasingly viewing Mexico as the optimum mining jurisdiction to do business, says Jeffrey Christian, Managing Director of the New York-based CPM Group, a leading commodities research, consulting, asset management and investment banking organization. “Mexico represents one of the most attractive places in the world for mining, not only in terms of geology but also for its political, economic and regulatory environment. There is also a promining mentality in Mexico. The country is very much open for business,” Christian says. “Also many good quality deposits have gone relatively unexploited over the centuries.” Conversely, an increasing number of other emerging gold-producing nations are beginning to raise barriers to the building of mines by foreign mining companies. In extreme cases, this involves the nationalization of rich mineral finds that have been developed by well-financed North American mining companies, Christian adds. Ironically, these protectionist regimes include underdeveloped economies that have benefited from an increase in gold output in recent years thanks to the influx of North American investment dollars. North American mining companies are not having much better luck on their own soil, he says. “Even in the United States and Canada the barriers to obtaining mine production permits have become greater and greater,” Christian says. For instance, “anti-mining groups” can use the legal system to win a succession of court injunctions, which may delay the commissioning of a mine for years on end, he explains. Hence, an increasing number of frustrated mining companies are turning their attention to Mexico, where they are mostly developing large silver deposits—ones where gold and base metals constitute meaningful by-products. But low-cost, near-surface primary gold deposits are also being targeted—some of which are under-developed past producers that historically suffered from a lack of investment capital. Perhaps the best example of how this strategy is paying off in a big way involves the world’s
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fifth largest gold producer, Vancouver-based Goldcorp Inc. (NYSE: GG) (TSX: G), which just initiated production at its world-class gold/silver Penasquito mine in Zacatecas State in October. The mine hosts at least 13 million ounces of gold and is scheduled to start yielding up to 500,000 ounces of gold per year in 2010. Meanwhile, Vancouver-based Timmins Gold Corp. (TSX.V: TMM) is scheduled before the year’s end to become Mexico’s next primary gold producer. One of only several junior mining companies to date to earn this distinction, Timmins Gold just announced a US$15 million debt financing to commercialize its open-pit (low cost) San Francisco mine, which is situated near the U.S. border in Sonora, Mexico. The company is on target to produce up to 100,000 gold ounces a year. Company President Bruce Bragagnolo says Mexico is an ideal mining jurisdiction to work in, especially due to its streamlined mine permitting process. This is illustrated by the fact that his company will have gone from a standing start to pouring its first gold bar in three short years. This is approximately half the time it typically takes to clear all the legal and political hurdles involved in developing a gold mine in North America. “It’s been a relatively easy process from a mine permitting standpoint,” Bragagnolo explains. “Also the local government and the local population are on-side as we’re in an underdeveloped area that needs jobs. Additionally, there’s great infrastructure in place, we can even work year-round. We’re also benefiting from low capital costs and we’re going to be producing as inexpensively as around $400 an ounce.” Unlike various other junior gold miners that also aspire to become mid-tier producers, Timmins Gold has no intention of diversifying into projects elsewhere in the world, according to Bragagnolo. “We have all the right dynamics right here in Mexico for us to grow into a much bigger company by way of organic growth and through property acquisitions,” he says. “In the nearterm, we have excellent exploration potential around the mine. So our immediate goal is to double our reserve base and therby double the mine life.” Meanwhile Toronto-based Agnico Eagle Mines (NYSE: AEM) (TSX: AEM) is also set to begin full-scale production at its Pinos Altos gold/ silver mine in the coming weeks. The mine is expected to generate 190,000 ounces of gold a year. Moreover, Idaho-based Coeur d’Alene (NYSE: CDE) (TSX: CDM) is aiming to produce 72,000 ounces a year from its new Palmerejo gold/silver mine, which was commissioned last spring.
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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{Shopping in MEXICO}}
A
true and successful blend of cultures
local Walmart or Home Depot pepper the crisp
offer. Rather than hordes of Mexican citizens
be acquired in Baja. The American corporations
and heritages has become apparent
blue sky, others see it as advancement. Baja is
making routine trips across the border to stock
can supply the locals with quality American goods
in the beautiful landscape of secluded Baja.
perfectly situated to embrace Applebee’s and
up on American goods, they can buy them locally
that used to be somewhat unattainable. The local
This area, historically left desolate, is a haven
Walmart while fully supporting the custom-
and know a fellow citizen is employed. Luckily
small businesses offering traditional goods and
of opportunity and splendor. While some may
made furniture store that encompasses the local
for business in Baja, the general population is
hard-to-find cultural arts are still thriving and
have seen Baja as an escapist dream destination
culture. It has the largest bilingual population in
armed with a higher education level and skill
attracting both local customers and tourists.
that was out of the loop or a leap away from the
the country and its easy accessibility to Southern
level compared to other parts of Mexico. Even
If you are looking for interesting and traditional
mainstream, it is now an
flare to take back to the United
oasis where two very
States, you can find yourself
different cultures feed off
easily enraptured with the
of each other and depend
amount of choices at every
on
picturesque
corner. Rosarito Beach alone
slice of heaven for their
has many small craft stores
livelihood.
located near the most utilized
the
Since its inception in
hotels and restaurants of
1994, NAFTA has created
tourists. If you venture a few
a virtual firestorm of
blocks south from the brick-
controversy. There are
lined sidewalks in front of
fervent camps that argue
upscale boutiques, you are
whether it has brought
sure to find bargains. Just
new
or
taking the time to browse the
economic downfall to
streets less traveled can open
opportunity
Great Shopping Opportunities
Mexico in general. While Baja sits apart from the rest logistically, it has not been immune from the affects and controversies NAFTA has had on the business climate there. NAFTA’s preamble still shines through as its central
mission
in Baja
and
testimonial as to what it can and has brought Baja and surrounding areas. It boldly states
on beautifully made local goods. Rosarito Beach is known for its furniture shops and art galleries. The high quality and cheaply priced custom-made furniture from this region is world renowned. You will find many
Southern
California
homes fully decorated with custom-made furniture from this area. Other collectible by Benjamin Eugene
NAFTA primarily seeks to
up a new world of great deals
items, which will allow the local tourist to easily and
“strengthen the special
economically complete all of
bonds
their holiday shopping, are the
of
and
friendship
cooperation”
for
fountains, hand-painted tiles
the nations it affects.
and traditional pots.
NAFTA also sets forth the goal to “enhance
California makes it still a number one tourist
when sprinkled among high-end shops and high-
Ensenada has something for everyone,
competitiveness,”
and
shopping Mecca. These factors and ability to
tech industries, these somewhat lower paying
because when you’re in Ensenada you must go
innovation,” and “create new employment
“foster
creativity
meet the demand for both American goods from
opportunities in American chain stores in Baja
shopping. Just about anything you are looking for
opportunities” amongst other mutually beneficial
big chains like Walmart and need to keep the
are still generating new jobs. Their sophisticated
can be found in Ensenada at a bargain. The main
ideals.
local business alive is being accomplished in this
means of shipping may give them a competitive
shopping area is the tourist zone from the cruise
pro-business climate.
edge, but the appetite for traditional goods from
ship docks to the beautiful boutiques that line the
the local boutiques still lure in visitors looking to
brick-paved sidewalks of Lopez Mateos. In the
ship unique gifts to friends and family.
tourist zone, you can expect to pay higher prices,
While some may argue how these goals have played out for some areas involved, no one can
While some argue these large American
argue that NAFTA is responsible for tripling the
corporations
amount of trade for the areas it has affected.
opportunities, there is still a demand for the
Regardless of whether you are a local or a
but the area is nice and cleaned every morning,
While some analysts see it as detrimental that a
goods and services these American corporations
visitor, anything you can possibly need can easily
and is lined with bars, restaurants with street-side
10
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
only
offer
low-wage
job
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
{{Shopping in MEXICO} seating, and lots of shopping. Streets are packed
produced piece, handmade bath products, ladies
Todos Santos is one area of Baja that has
high priced item. Naturally you want to seek the
with tourists when the cruise ships are docked
boutiques and wonderful gift stops and specialty
seen tremendous growth. The opening of new
best means of payment when dealing with a lot
Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday.
grocers. The creativity of this local culture shines
boutiques, retail stores, restaurants and galleries
of money. However, if you are spending smaller
through in every aspect of the artful pieces that
has revived the local crafts market. There are even
amounts at several shops and only in the area
can be found.
locally made surf boards sought after by novice
for a short time, like a weekend, seeking out an
wave riders and those with years of experience
exchange at a local bank may not be worth the
under their belts.
time. When it comes to shopping in the local
San Felipe has a small shopping district, but makes up the size in the number of treasures available, many created by the large fine arts
La Paz may be a more trendy rather than an
community in the town. In a two-block area of
artsy destination for both the tourist and local
the beach, along Mar de Cortez and the Malecon,
shopper. There are many appealing high-end
Roaming around all the small communities
boutiques and craftsman shops, you really will
San Felipe offers some real gems, including art
boutiques, which give fashion lovers many hours
peppered throughout Baja, one can stumble upon
not save a huge amount by converting. There is
gallery, gourmet foods, furniture, and amazing
of enticing window shopping opportunities. La
endless treasures. The creativity and artistic
typically such a small day-to-day fluctuation in
home decor, all tucked between restaurants and
Paz has many large department stores that will
nuances of this part of the world are like no
exchange rates and you will not save a substantial
nightclubs and lounges. In recent months, many
lure in anyone looking to outfit themselves in the
other. The silver jewelry and traditional weavings
amount of money.
new businesses have opened or expanded to the
latest styles and trends.
and blankets have been made masterfully and
When you travel to this area, whether for a
using methods that have been handed down for
unique holiday shopping extravaganza or for
generations.
longer, you will want to be prepared to buy from
northern end of town offering additional products and services.
If you are looking to imbibe the favorite drinks of the local cultures, you need look no further
In the area of Loreto you can come across
than Cabo San Lucas. Cabo San Lucas is hailed
You can use the American dollar to pay at
both familiar American retailers and the Mexican
unique local gifts that are made with high-
by some visitors as home to simply the best
almost any establishment, but will end up paying
retailers. This holiday season, stock up on those
end quality materials and are sure to appeal
tequila ever made, although it’s Baja and not
an exchange rate that compensates the business
hard to get items at the big guy, then stroll the
to everyone. You can find an excess of leather
Jalisco. Anyone with a distinguished pallet and
for accepting the dollar. To guarantee the best
local shops, politely negotiating with local
goods and woodcarvings. Old world techniques
love of the traditional drink may want to check it
exchange rate between the dollar and peso, you
artisans, and enjoy yourself; it’s the best way to
of hand-blown glass produce treasures you
out and stock up for that tequila aficionado you
will want to visit the local bank. This is especially
get the most for your money, have the most fun
can’t even begin to compare to a standard mass
know.
recommended if you are looking to purchase a
and enjoy your time shopping in Baja.
Photo by Slater River
Trying on Hats
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MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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{Shopping in MEXICO}} Mexicali
ask about our affordable Condo & Home paCkages We have all the decorative & interior design possibilities that will fit your lifestyle. Not only do we strive to satisfy each customer’s needs, but also make sure that you receive quality work at competitive prices to fit your budget. To schedule an appointment please call or email: 011-52-1-686-569-6612 or capistranolacasadelregalo@prodigy.net.mx
Capistrano Décor & More Design and So Much More
Capistrano Décor & More offers a range of professional interior design services, including a wide variety of window coverings from bamboo blinds to curtains. They also offer beautiful pieces of wall decor, mirrors and other handmade wall art. They started in the wood frames business, then continued working for big hotels selling mirrors and wall decor (lithographs). When the owners’ daughter, Viridiana, wanted to have a interior design store in Mexicali, the entire family helped her get into the business. After the store opened, they began decorating big and new developments in Mexicali; at the same time they had some friends in San Felipe that needed assistance decorating their rental home and Capistrano Décor & More has been working in San Felipe ever since. Capistrano Décor & More is located in Mexicali and has been serving the area, including San Felipe for over eight years. Their complete line of services include upholstery, furniture, ornaments, bedspreads, floral arrangements, table lamps, rugs and iron plaques. They provide consultation and selection of paint for your inside and outside walls, carpentry services, sealing floors and handmade sofas. Viridiana suggests you ask about their affordable condo and home plan packages; they have complete turnkey programs—they do it all. Capistrano Décor & More also specializes in a variety of styles, such as contemporary, modern, casual, tropical, Mexican rustic, Santa Fe, etc.; all styles can be customized to fit your lifestyle and packaged for your home or office. You can visit their showroom in Mexicali, with a lot of decorative accessories and catalogs at Blvd. Lázaro Cárdenas # 3132 Local # 7, or contact them for interior design services at (686) 569-6612, or email capistranolacasadelregalo@prodigy.com.mx.
San Felipe
Baja Nueva
Premier Shopping in San Felipe
Eclectic, innovative, interesting, exciting, and colorful are just some of the thoughts that strike you as you walk into San Felipe’s premier store for custom furniture, home décor, gift items, clocks, scented candles, art glass, and now European sipping chocolates and gourmet jams, jellies, dressings, grilling sauces, mustards, chutneys, salsas, and herbed oils. Located in the Plazita, 614 Mar de Cortez, Baja Nueva is filled with sights and smells that will perk your interest and excite your senses. It takes multiple visits to see everything in the two stores and new items come in weekly to renew the inventory. The brainchild of Sherry and Jerry Lankin, they work hard at selecting interesting and exciting items to tempt everyone who enters their beautiful stores. In addition to being chosen best Home Decorating Store, Baja Nueva was also voted best Art Gallery for the past two years. Most of San Felipe’s finest artists and craftsmen have been shown here in addition to some well-known artists from the U.S. Monthly art events are always a hit with the locals and tourists who flock to see the latest in innovative ideas and to partake of the delicious food and wine. Baja Nueva offers complete decorating services. Turnkey packages for condos and homes are designed to match every budget. All of the contemporary custom-made and hacienda furniture is constructed in Mexico. You can choose colors and fabrics to suit your taste. Custom paintings, blinds, shutters and shades, are also available. This month’s Art Event features the pottery of the Pai Pai Indians, whose reservation is in the Santa Catarina mountains near Ensenada. Daria, their master potter, will display her unique collectable clay pottery available only at Baja Nueva.
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The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
San Felipe
{{Shopping in MEXICO}
Sea of Cortez Salt Just One Taste . . . and You’ll be Hooked
Why is San Felipe shrimp so delicious? It’s the salt! It’s the Sea of Cortez natural sea salt. The San Felipe Salt Company harvests natural, solar-dried, Sea of Cortez salt from salinas (salt farms) located north of San Felipe. The rich waters from, as Jacques Cousteau referred to the Sea of Cortez, the “world’s aquarium” is pumped into small ponds, and with the natural energy of the hot Baja sun and moving air it soon becomes one of mankind’s most important nutritional needs—SALT. An analysis of San Felipe’s Sea of Cortez natural sea salt shows it is high in essential trace elements. Sodium chloride content has been tested to be as low as 83 percent; whereas 99.7 percent sodium chloride is normal for regular processed salt. Those essential trace elements also impart a different flavor—a smoother . . . sunny . . . fresh flavor. San Felipe Salt Company packages their salt in attractive, blue tinted, handmade, glass bottles with an adjustable spice grinder top. The artist in you will appreciate that the gorgeous labels are hand painted. These salt “shakers” are definitely table ready. The folks at San Felipe Salt Company have also blended their salt with a host of flavorful spices. Roasted, crushed garlic blended with natural Sea of Cortez salt is a kitchen must. You can grind it on, rub it on or pack it on—especially on a loin of pork, leg of lamb or fresh San Felipe shrimp. Delicious! They have two very Mexican blends. Their first is crushed, chipotle chile and cacao—cacao is the bean chocolate comes from. WOW! This is an amazing mix of flavors. You feel the experience of the chipotle, which is quickly balanced with the mellow, rich essence of the chocolate bean.
Bring this ad in for a 10% discount Expires Dec 31st
Carne asada, pork or chicken, with Chipotle Sea Salt . . . Mmmm, good. Believe it or not, grind it on fresh fruit for a bit of fresh fruit with a kick. Nice combination. Then for those who love chile—and I mean CHILE—try CHILTEPíN blended with sea salt. Chiltepín chile is one of those things where a little goes a long way. Chiltepín registers between 50,000 and 100,000 Scoville Heat Units on the international chile hotness scale. It scores up there with habanera chile peppers. HOT! Along with spicing up your favorite Mexican dish, the ground Chiltepín Salt makes a perfect rimmer for a Michelada or a Chavela. If you haven’t tried one, these are spicy Mexican beer drinks with a spiced salt rim on the glass. San Felipe Salt Company has a retail store located in La Plazita shopping center on Ave. Mar de Cortez in downtown San Felipe. There you will find their full assortment of gourmet salt as well as gift baskets for every purpose. Tasting is highly encouraged. I understand that they even have some fine tequilas to taste along with their full assortment of San Felipe’s Sea of Cortez natural sea salt. Check out the decorative ceramic containers full of The Official Margarita Salt of Baja. When visiting the store mention that you saw this article in Mexico Living magazine and you will receive a free six-ounce refill package of Sea of Cortez Natural Sea Salt when you purchase any one of their gourmet salts. You don’t even have to bring a coupon—just mention Mexico Living. You can also find their salty products on line at www.sanfelipesalt.com but, unfortunately, no tasting system has been developed yet for online tasting. Enjoy!
El Caballo Blanco Loreto Five years ago, after 15 years of Baja adventures, El Caballo Blanco moved their bookstore from New Mexico to Loreto. Wild natural beauty drew them to Loreto and friends helped them sink roots. The owners enjoy the best of all lives; fascinating people, new ideas from distant places, and neighbors who became family. In El Caballo Blanco, browse the best Baja book selection. Thousands of used books fill the palapa room, with new Baja books, art and maps in the second room. They carry favorite things; art supplies, pottery, and fabric, comfortable chairs and their ever-ready coffee pot. Stop in for coffee and a chat; bring along this month’s edition of Mexico Living and receive a 10 percent discount on all items during the month of December.
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MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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13
{Shopping in MEXICO}}
Popular Mexican Christmas Gifts The custom of putting up a Christmas tree has become very popular in Mexico, so we thought we’d share a few popular Mexican Christmas gifts that you may want to add to your Baja holiday gift shopping list.
Oaxacan Wood Carving Oaxacan folk art wood carvings or “alebrijes” have been produced by the same families in the
Dia de los Muertos, Mexican Day of the Dead Folk Figures and Sculptures
small town of San Martin Tilcajete for decades.
The skel-
Each piece is carefully carved with amazing detail
eton figures
from copal, a soft wood found in Mexico. Then
and
it is hand painted in bright colors and patterns.
tures
are
www.sunriseimports.net/oaxacanwoodcarvings.
made
from
html
a variety of
sculp-
materials including hand-painted
Beaded Mask
sheet metal, paper mache
Created by the Huichol Indians, a small tribe of approximately 10,000 Indians living in central western Mexico, this beaded mask is made by overlaying the carved mask with a beeswax and resin mixture. Then tiny glass beads are placed by hand on the sticky base, one at a time, until the pattern is complete. The Huichol create these
and clay. The skeleton figures are created and painted by hand by the folk artists of Mexico. Many of the painted clay skeletons (esqueletos) are fashioned to depict the activities the deceased enjoyed while alive.
sacred objects of beauty as a way of honoring the life-giving forces of the universe.
Virgen De Guadalupe T-Shirt Aztec Dolls Aztec Dolls are 100 percent handcrafted by the Mexica (Ma-she-ka) Indians of Central Mexico. The Mexica are the descendants of the the great Aztec Empire, but in today’s world they struggle for existence. The craftsmanship of these dolls
The Virgen of Guadalupe is universally revered in Mexico, which doesn’t mean her image is somehow sanctified. It is everywhere, though it is never used in a commercial manner to sell anything. A tasteful T-shirt or blouse with an image of the Virgen de Guadalupe will help your traveler feel right at home in Mexico.
are so intricate that their arms and legs actually move. www.aztec-empire.com/dolls.htm
Mexican Bubble Glass
Artisans from Taxco, a beautiful town located
Mexican blown glass was called Mexican
in the mountains of the west coast of Mexico, are
bubble glass because of all the bubbles produced
world famous for their handcrafted sterling silver
when blowing the molten glass. The blown glass
jewelry. They transform pure silver into lovely
technique consists of blowing through a pipe
jewelry with either classic or trendy designs. The
onto a red-hot glass mass, heated in a special
complete collection at Silverzeal is 925 sterling
oven. Pitchers and glasses can be clear or with
silver.
rims and bases in cobalt, turquoise and amber. Mexican bubble glass will add a bit of the Mexican culture to your home. 14
Sterling Silver Jewelry from Taxco
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
{{Shopping in MEXICO}
The Holiday Poinsettia by Greg Niemann
Throughout history, Mexico has made numerous gifts to its big neighbor to the north. Tomatoes, avocados and chiles all came from Mexico, and the state of Baja California alone has contributed fish tacos, Caesar salads and margaritas. Over the years, the U.S. has received many Mexican sons and daughters; and even, following the Mexican-American War, gave Americans the entire state of California. But the most colorful gift that wended its way north is the flaming red poinsettia, that ubiquitous holiday plant that entices Christmas shoppers in malls and supermarkets everywhere. The poinsettia, which blooms in December, lends a festive air to homes and businesses on both sides of the border. And its origins are as Mexican as mariachi music. Native to the area around present-day Taxco, the Aztecs cultivated the plant they called Cuetlayochitl (Cuetlaxochitle in some references), using the sap to control fevers and the bracts (modified leaves) to make a reddish dye. The plant was so popular that even Montezuma had them caravaned into Mexico City as they could not be grown in that high altitude. After the Spaniards arrived, in the 17th century a group of Franciscan priests that settled near Taxco began using the red flowers for the Fiesta of Santa Pesembre (Feast of the Holy Manger), the first known holiday usage. What is a Mexican tradition without a supporting legend? The poinsettia legend has a poor Mexican girl named Pepita walking with her brother (or cousin, versions vary) Pedro to Christmas Eve services at the village church where people made gifts to the Christ Child. She was sad as she had no gift. Pedro said consolingly, “I am sure, Pepita, that even the most humble gift, if given in love, will be acceptable in His eyes.” So Pepita knelt by the roadside and scooped a handful of common weeds and tried to fashion them into a presentable bouquet. In the chapel, Pepita placed the makeshift bouquet at the foot of the Nativity scene. Suddenly the weeds burst into beautiful red blooms and all who saw were certain they had witnessed a miracle. From then on, the flower in Mexico became known as the Flor de Nochebuena, or Flower of the Holy Night. The botanical name is also colorful (for Latin) and the plants were named Euphorbia pulcherrima Wild (pulcherrima means most beautiful) by German botanist Wilenow who was dazzled by their color. The Mexicans have their name for the flower and the scientists have their identifying moniker, but how did Americans come to know it as the poinsettia? Enter John Roberts Poinsett.
Born in South Carolina in 1779, Poinsett became a special agent to South America, served in his state legislature, and was a member of the U.S. House of Representatives before heading to Mexico as special envoy. He was the first American ambassador to Mexico (appointed by Andrew Jackson) and was later a Unionist in rebel South Carolina. His outstanding career also included serving as Secretary of War under Martin Van Buren (1837–1841). But Poinsett is best known for the flower that bears his name. An accomplished botanist, in 1825 he sent some of the brilliant flowers from Mexico to his own nursery in South Carolina, and also to other friends and American horticulturalists, and they thrived. As the plant became more popular, historian and horticulturalist William Prescott was asked to give the plant a popular name. He chose poinsettia, honoring Joel Poinsett’s contribution. A little known fact is that Poinsett was also the person who introduced the American Elm to Mexico, with the end result being a literal swapping of botanical gifts. The present-day poinsettia has been hybridized greatly in the U.S. and Europe from the original Mexican plant. Today there are over 100 varieties, with varying heights, colors (red, pink, white), bract width and flowering habits. Today 90 percent of all poinsettias are grown in the United States. They are commercially grown in all 50 states, with California top producer. One of the world’s largest commercial growers is the Paul Ecke Ranch in nearby Encinitis, which grows over 80 percent of the U.S. wholesale market. In fact, 90 percent of all flowering poinsettias in the world got their start at Paul Ecke Ranch in north San Diego County. The Ecke Ranch originated in 1902 when Albert Ecke started growing poinsettias in Eagle Rock, now a community of northeast Los Angeles. In 1909, he and his son specialized in poinsettias. They moved to Encinitis in 1923. Paul Ecke poinsettias are known for huge, giant bloom centers and a unique single stem presentation. December 12 has been designated National Poinsettia Day and the flower represents 85 percent of all potted plant sales during the holiday season. Hundreds of millions of dollars’ worth of poinsettias are sold during the brief six-week season.
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Poinsettias grow rapidly in Southern California, and do well in coastal areas. That simple holiday pot, planted in a yard will, in a few short years, be a flowering tree. The cost of a poinsettia is determined by the number of blooms. Red rules as 74 percent of all Americans prefer that color to white (8 percent) and pink (6 percent). Women purchase 80 percent of America’s best-selling potted plant. In the large supermarkets and wholesale outlets like Costco, poinsettias are as ubiquitous at yuletide as chewing gum at the checkout counter, except because of the size and brilliance, the poinsettias are much more obvious and shopping carts quickly get filled with them. I don’t know what use the Mexicans made of the American Elm, but without their Flor de Nochebuena, the holiday season just wouldn’t be the same for millions of Americans. Greg Niemann has written extensively about Baja California for numerous publications, and is the author of Baja Fever, Baja Legends, Palm Springs Legends, and Big Brown: The Untold Story of UPS. www.gregniemann.com
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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{COVER Feature}}
Holiday Shopping by David Mandich
Famous for world-class resorts, big game fishing, golf, and fine dining, Cabo is also known as a place for exclusive shopping. International designer apparel, watches, jewelry, art, shoes, fashion accessories and more can be found at Puerto Paraiso Mall, Luxury Avenue, Marina Golden Zone, Embarcadero and Galli Plaza— all located around and about Cabo’s marina waterfront. On the east end of the Tourist Corridor that separates Cabo from San Jose del Cabo, one will find The Shoppes at Palmilla and San Jose’s Historic District—both good bets for holiday shopping adventures. Puerto Paraiso Mall features upscale brand boutiques such as Tommy Bahama, Hugo Boss and La Coste as well as many Mexican artisan shops and galleries. Don’t miss the exclusive store full of Seville armor, swords, blunderbusses and replica sailing yachts for the men (boys at heart) in your life. You’ll find scores of unique shops, restaurants, coffee, ice cream, sushi bars, theaters and more. If you still have dinero at the end of the day, you can try double it at the Vegas-style casino located upstairs next to Luxury Avenue mall. Luxury Avenue, Cabo’s newest locale for sport shopping, features designer boutiques offering famous brands such as Rolex, Monte Blanc, Coach, Fendi, Gucci, Movado, Chopard, Tissot and more. These precious indulgences
16
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
e l y t S Cabo
can range from the very affordable to “sell the kids and mortgage the house.” One can never go wrong when one buys quality, as quality and style simply outlast imitations. Besides, owning the real thing is much more fun than paying for the kids’ college education! Immediately past Luxury Avenue and Puerto Paraiso Mall is the start of the Golden Zone. Here below the Marina Fiesta Resort and Spa facing the Malecon, one can visit an authentic Indian crafts shop filled with woven fiber and embroidered dresses, beads, turquoise and silver jewelry and more made by indigenous Huichol Indians from the mountainous regions north of Guadalajara. A nearby silver and glass-art shop features upscale Mexican fine jewelry, whimsical ceramic and glass sculptures; however, on the next corner past the waterfalls, you’ll not want to miss the informative Tequila Museum featuring a selection of premium labels available for tasting. Have your picture taken next to the Mexican colonial figure sculptures seated on the bench out in front. You’ll find several places to take a break from shopping to enjoy a margarita, coffee or meal ranging from a deli to fine restaurants—all with seating overlooking the yachts and people strolling by. Don’t miss the unnamed canopied bar suspended out over the water at the south end
of the Malecon in front of the new Baja Lobster Company and Los Deseos Mexican restaurants. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a cold one while watching the sunset over the Land’s End mountains. Newer Embarcadero and adjacent Gali plazas on the marina’s south side feature designer shops, Duty Free stores, tequila, cigar shops, dive charter businesses, jewelry, coffee bars, an Irish pub, Senor Frog’s boutique, and art galleries with local and international painters and sculptors represented. The Shoppes at Pamilla on the east end of the Tourist Corridor at Km. 27.5 features a score of boutiques with offerings ranging from upscale designer home furnishings and décor to fine art, jewelry, famous designer watches, and shops featuring Mexican designer apparel made of natural fibers and dyes. There’s sportswear, beachwear, tableware and more including private banking for foreigners, two great restaurants and a coffee/ juice bar set amidst a secret garden. The plaza is set
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
in a quiet lush Hacienda-style hillside complex in the middle of the One and Only Palmilla resort community. San Jose del Cabo’s quaint Historic and Art districts are nice places as well. Behind the Cathedral and surrounding the plaza in front are numerous shops featuring silver and Mexican fire opal jewelry, Talavera ceramic ware from Puebla, apparel boutiques, artisan and art galleries featuring local and international artists. Take a break at the new Baja Brewery—a micro-brewery behind the Cathedral—their pub, food, handcrafted beer and homemade root beer will make your holiday shopping even more fun. You’ll enjoy the evening dining at the Tropicana Hotel or Don Emilianos’ across the street, where Mexican Posadas and traditional music and dance performances can be seen during the holiday season. Feliz Navidad!
{{COVER FEATURE}
Holiday Traditions of Mexico
Photo by Tom White
“Feliz Navidad”
“La Posadas,” the remarkable buildup to Christmas Eve, is perhaps the most delightful and unique Mexican tradition. Beginning December 16, it commemorates the events in the journey of Mary and Joseph from Nazareth to Bethlehem. Hot bowl of champurrado as served at a After dark, each Mexican breakfast. night of the “Posada,” a procession begins led by two children. The children carry a small pine-decorated platform bearing replicas of Joseph and Mary riding a burro. Other members of the company, all with lighted long slender
candles, sing the “Litany of the Virgin” as they approach the door of the house assigned to the first Posada. Together they chant an old traditional song and awaken the mast of the house to ask lodging for Mary. Those within the house threaten the company with beatings unless they move on. Again, the company pleads for admittance. When the owner of the house finally learns who his guests are, he jubilantly throws open the doors and bids them welcome. All kneel around the manger scene or “Nacimiento” and offer songs of welcome, Ave Marias and a prayer. Now it’s time of the “Pinata,” refreshments and dancing. The Pinata is a pottery (or paper) container, brightly decorated and filled with candy and toys. It is hung from the ceiling or a tree. One by one, the children are blindfolded, turned around and instructed to strike the Pinata with a stick. Usually several attempts are made before the container is broken. Of course, when that happens, there is an explosion of goodies and a scattering of children.
Cha mpurrado (Chocolate Atole)
e) c i R t e e w S ( e A rroz D u lc ce 3/4 cup ri n vanilla 1 teaspoo cream 1 cup rich
gar 2/3 cup su k 4 cups mil oon salt 1/4 teasp
On Christmas Eve another verse is added to the Ave Marias, telling the Virgin Mary that the desired night has come. Small children dressed as shepherds stand on either side of the nativity scene while members of the company kneel and sing a litany, after which the Christ child is lulled to sleep with the cradle song, “El Rorro” (Babe in Arms). At midnight Christmas is announced with fireworks, ringing bells and blowing whistles. Devout worshipers surge into churches to attend the famous “Misa de Gallo” or “Mass of the Rooster.” Following Mass, families return home for a tremendous dinner of traditional Mexican foods. The dishes vary with the different regions. However, somewhat common are the tamales, rice, rellenos, “atole” (a sweet traditional drink) and “menudo,” which is said to be more sobering than strong coffee. Christmas Day has no special celebration though many have adopted the American-style Christmas with a Christmas tree and Santa Claus.
6 cups whole milk 1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed 1 cup masa harina (corn flour) 3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, grated 2 cups water 1 cinnamon stick
with h, cover is d g in k a ntil the a deep b rice into hours, or u e 3 th r t fo u n P e v . k oderate o t sticking. Scald mil r to preven ake in a m u b o d h n t a rs fi k il e nilla, g th the hot m e, add va nally durin n o o si d a c st c o o r lm . Sti k. When a rice is soft ore hot mil m d d a , ry If necessa h baking. , and finis m a re c d n sugar a
Heat the milk and chocolate in a saucepan, stirring to dissolve the chocolate. When the chocolate is completely dissolved, remove from the heat and set aside to keep warm. Mix the masa harina with the water in another saucepan; place over low heat, add the cinnamon stick, and cook until the mixture has thickened and the masa becomes translucent. Add the chocolate milk and sugar. Stir to dissolve the sugar and simmer for a few minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and serve the champurrado hot in cups or mugs.
Visit http://community.mexicolivingguide.com to download a fresh and refreshing surf tune for the holidays.
FREE MP3 Christmas Music! CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Tim Smith’s Primal Sky “Riding Christmas Waves” is smooth, soothing holiday music that we guarantee you’ll be listening to even in July! Simply check the audio section for all the latest music and talk. Happy Holidays! MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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MarketPlace News
ZAPP Animal Center Opening this Month in San Felipe by Steven “Dogman” Forman
DIALING INSTRUCTIONS Mexico City: (011) 52-55, plus the 8-digit telephone number. Guadalajara: (011) 52-33, plus the 8-digit telephone number. Tijuana: (011) 52-664, plus the 7-digit telephone number. USA to MX Cell Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to MX Landline: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) MX to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel #) DIALING 800 NUMBER: Some charges may apply when call 800 numbers internationally, please check with the telephone carrier.
Great news for dogs and cats in San Felipe. The new ZAPP Animal Center is opening for intake this month. With the help of an anonymous donor from California, who has been rescuing animals for more than 30 years, this important project has come to life. ZAPP is honored that this man chose us to expand his vision by opening this satellite location for San Felipe. The ZAPP Center is located on seven and a half acres in a remote section of the desert, just two miles off the main highway.
The Center will have an open-door policy for any and all dogs, cats, puppies, kittens . . . even horses, if they are in need. Need implies animals at risk of euthanasia by Animal Control as a result of a roundup; need also includes animals that have been injured, abandoned, are sick, starving or otherwise cannot survive on their own. Our mission is to remove all “at risk” animals from jeopardy, perform spay/neuter surgery on each and every one, and provide them a safe, loving environment that improves their quality of life, with the goal of placing as many of these animals as we can in loving, secure homes, shelters and rescues in California and Mexico. The Center will also be a rehabilitation and adoption facility for special needs animals. An assisted living community for geriatric animals that are less adoptable is also part of the overall plan. Some of these older animals may be transported
San Felipe Pizza Shuffle Fatboy’s Pizza has expanded and opened a new store at Playa de Oro at km 179 in north San Felipe, replacing the recently vacated Sand Rail Pizza, which moved up the road to the Jolly Mon Bar in the Plaza Paraiso at km 178.5.
Voted the Best Pizza in San Felipe 2008, Fatboy’s now has two locations in San Felipe offering pizza, sandwiches, salads and more, the original location on the corner of Chetumal and Mar de Cortez and now in the former Sand & Sea
800 DIALING to the USA From MX (dial 001+) To Dial USA 800...............dial 880 To Dial USA 866...............dial 883 To Dial USA 877...............dial 882 To Dial USA 888...............dial 881 IMPORTANT NUMBERS: MX 411 (Spanish only)........... 040 Tourist Assistance Hotline...... 076 Green Angels (MX Toll-Free) ......................... 1-800-903-0092 Worldwide Emergency No. for Mobile is................................ 112 Emergencies................060 & 066 Sky Medical (from MX) ..................... 001-866-805-9624 Air-E-Vac........ 001-880-321-9522 18
to a care for life sanctuary in California. Others will stay with us. The Center is a “no-kill” facility, and unless circumstances are dire, we will adhere to that policy to the best of our ability. The ZAPP Animal Center will also provide much needed Board and Care services for travelers, and grooming services, too. And although a “lofty” goal, we will do everything possible to have 24-hour urgent care services for emergencies, working with our vet, Dr. Antonio Solis, and his staff. We are also committed to holding workshops and on-site classes for students in our community, in an effort to teach everything we can about humane animal treatment and animal population control. If you’d like more information about our project, please contact us at bajaanimalrescue@yahoo. com, or visit our website at www.sfzapp.com.
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Deli at Playa de Oro. Every Sunday morning, Fatboy’s offers FREE breakfast with the purchase of any alcoholic beverage.
Playas de Rosarito Associate Publisher Rachel Pack MX 686-230-9933 / rachel@mexicoliving.info www.mexicolivingguide.com/rosaritobeach
ROSARITO DIRECTORY ICON Descriptions
- Pool/Spa
{{ROSARITO BEACH, BAJA CALIFORNIA} ROSARITO BEACH BAJA CALIFORNIA Playas de Rosarito, or Rosarito Beach as it
seafood and delicious steaks to American,
is referred to in English, is a city in the Mexican
Chinese, French and Italian specialties. Be sure to
- Accept Credit Cards
- Pet Friendly
- Wi-Fi / Internet
- Serves Breakfast
state of Baja California. It is located between the
visit the well-known lobster village, Puerto Nuevo,
- Kitchen/Restaurant
- Beer/Spirits
Pacific Ocean and the coastal foothills, just 20
just 15 minutes south of Rosarito—a tourist and
- Reader Poll Winner
minutes south of the U.S. border in Tijuana and is
culinary destination. Whether staying for vacation
a popular destination for tourists, snowbirds and
or life, you will enjoy Playas de Rosarito.
# - Map Number
PLACES TO EAT See the Dining Guide on page 28.
PLACES TO STAY See the Dining Guide on page 26.
ATM/GETTING CASH
expatriates from the United States. With 20 miles of white, sandy beaches with
Banamex, Bancomer and Bital have 24-hour
endless activities, Rosarito offers a large variety
ATMs that accept most U.S. bank cards all along
of places to stay and things to do, including
the Tijuana–Rosarito–Ensenada corridor. Only
incredible shopping in the Artisan shops with
pesos are dispensed; you can get dollars from an
BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z
some of Mexico’s finest leather goods, furniture,
HSBC ATM. Your account in the U.S. is charged
DOG GROOMERS .................. 661-100-6218 D’ Groomer Dog Grooming
wrought iron, pottery, marble and traditional
that day’s rate of exchange. A service fee will
Mexican crafts.
also be deducted from your account.
Certified Certified Certified Master Master Master Groomer Dog Grooming Estética Canina Groomer Dog DogGrooming Grooming- Estética - EstéticaCanina Canina Groomer
You’ll find a culinary paradise of international cuisine from traditional Mexican, sensational
Located just south of PEMEX AM-PM across from Tacos Jr. Located just south of of PEMEX AM-PM across from Tacos Jr.Jr. Located just south PEMEX AM-PM across from Tacos Libre Km 28.5, Popotla Blvd. Rosarito, Appts: Tues, Weds and Thurs Libre Km 28.5, Popotla Blvd. Rosarito, Appts: Tues, Weds and Thurs Libre Km 28.5, Popotla Blvd. Rosarito, Appts: Tues, Weds and Thurs
661-100-6218 661-100-6218• •125*317*7317 125*317*7317
Elevators/Elevadores To The Top Elevators.................................. 661-614-1434 FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company........ ......................686-576-0653 FISH/PESCADERÍA Vince's Old Peir ......................................... 661-612-1253 INSURANCE Jorge Cuadros y Asociados........................ 661-612-1295 Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)......... 686-577-1622 Click On
INTERNET .............................................. 661-614-0513
Click On
MAILING SERVICES .............................................. 661-614-0513
REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Nicolas Santos (Rosarito)........................... 619-917-5695 . ...............Rosarito Beach 661-612-5844 Laura Miller .............Member NAR (US) AMPI (Mx) US 619-888-6171 REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES Ensenada Remax....................................... 661-612-1132 REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services................. 760-494-7053 Satellite TV Installation Cisco-Sat................................................... 661-616-0779 STORAGE SERVICES Baja Public Storage........... 619-272-3271, 661-614-1642 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE .............................. 612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . .................................................. 612-142 0001 CALIGAS.................................................... 612-142 0122
Get the Guide At: La Bamba Restaurant Medio Camino (Halfway House) Rosarito Beach Hotel Lobby Coffee Shop CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
D’Groomer - dog grooming Click On - Puerto Nuevo Baja Open House, km 38 Bobby’s Baja by the Sea, km 42
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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{ENSENADA, BAJA CALIFORNIA}} Ensenada Associate Publisher Associate Rachel Pack MX 686-230-9933 / rachel@mexicoliving.info www.mexicolivingguide.com/ensenada
ENSENADA DIRECTORY ICON Descriptions
- Pool/Spa
- Accept Credit Cards
- Pet Friendly
- Wi-Fi / Internet
- Serves Breakfast
- Kitchen/Restaurant
- Beer/Spirits
# - Map Number
- Reader Poll Winner
PLACES TO EAT
See the Dining Guide on page 28.
PLACES TO STAY
See the Dining Guide on page 26.
BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z Aeropuerto/Airport Aeropuerto ...................................................646-273-1984 Art Gallery Garery Art & Stuff..........................................646-175-8859 ARTIST Alfonso Arambulua.........................................646-149-3866 DEVELOPMENT MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE FRACCIONAMIENTOS ........................ 1-800-434-2252 Baja Mar Country Club
Get the Guide At: Baja Country Club
HEALTH SPA La Fonda........................................................646-155-0394
El Rey Sol Hotel
INSURANCE Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking).............686-577-1622
El Rey Sol Restaurant
MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS ISSSTE .........................................................646-176-2230 IMSS ............................................................646-120-7771 Centro de Salud.............................................646-152-1371
CasaMar Restaurant Happy Pharmacy Hotel St. Isabel The Main Tourism office (by the Pemex)
20
FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company..................................686-576-0653
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
MUSIC/MUSICA Pharmacy Regia & House of Music................646-174-0557 Professional Services PSN Mexico Professional Services.................646-178-8280 Legal/Immigration Assist FM3/FM2/FMT Import documentation www.psnmexico.com
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
POLICE/POLICÍA Policia Ministerial...........................................646-176-3636 Policia Federal Caminos................................ 646-683-8040 Policia Federal Preventiva ..............................646-176-2579 Prefectura Naval.......................................... 469-0376/2948 public transportation/el transporte público Terminal de Buses..........................................646-224-1041 REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Nicolas Santos (Rosarito)...............................619-917-5695 REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services.....................760-494-7053 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE ..................................612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . ...................................................... 612-142 0001 CALIGAS........................................................ 612-142 0122 Vinos Fuentes Winery
Winery .............................646-171-7070
{{SAN FELIPE, BAJA CALIFORNIA }
San Felipe Associate Publisher Bill Maine 686-231-4921 / billmaine@gmail.com www.mexicolivingguide.com/sanfelipe
SAN FELIPE DIRECTORY ICON Descriptions
- Pet Friendly
- Wi-Fi / Internet
- Serves Breakfast
- Kitchen/Restaurant
- Beer/Spirits - Reader Poll Winner
# - Map Number
The San Felipe Arches
- Pool/Spa
- Accept Credit Cards
PLACES TO EAT
See the Dining Guide on page 28.
PLACES TO STAY
See the Dining Guide on page 26.
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) ACCOUNTING/CONTABILIDAD CP E&A Accounting......................................... 686-577-0836
Get the Guide At: Baja Nueva Blowin’ Smoke BBQ Botica Sagrado Corazon Charley AM/PM Airport Road Chumpos Pizza & Ice Cream CSI Baja Fat Boy’s Pizza Juanitos Restaurant Lillyana’s Day Spa Lighthouse Los Arcos Happy Jackass Maderas de San Felipe Maxivision Optical Oasis Market Playa Azul Restaurant Rancho Otro Market Redwagon Rosita Resturant Santa Fe Ph. SunRunner Mail Srvc. Yet Mail Z Market
The monument at the entrance to San Felipe was built in 1980 to represent the commitment of the four states around the Sea of Cortez (Baja California Norte, Baja California Sur, Sinaloa, and Sonora) to promote tourism and the regions beauty and charm.
Alterations/sastre San Felipe Seamstress (Vickie Silva).......... 686-175-5420 ARCHITECT/ARQUITECTO Rosa Lina Ramos Lazcano......................... 686-184-6172 ART GALLERY Oasis Fine Art Gallery................................. 686-221-1245 ARTIST/ARTISTA ......E-mail: andrenajoyce@yahoo.com Andrena Joyce Melody Ashley............ E-mail: melodya2004@yahoo.com Robin Waters............................................. 686-115-0526 Sandy Colomb "The Gourd Lady" . ............. 686-576-0384 Watercolors by Mary Lou........................... 686-171-5513 ATTORNEY/ABOGADO Carlos A. Martinez Monges........................ 686-120-1650 Lic. Francisco Sosa Mendez....................... 686-577-0624
California Dental Spa & California Optical ONE CONVENIENT LOCATION!
COME SEE US TODAY!
DENTAL SERVICES
Melina California Fierros Z., DDS White Fillings Teeth Whitening Cosmetic Dentistry Root Canals Implants Permanent Bridges
Removable Partials Extractions Dentures Metal and Porcelain Crowns
Mar Caribe Sur #1088-4 Across from ABC Bus Depot Visit us online or e-mail for more information
OPTICAL SERVICES
Licensed Optometrist Efrain Castellanos, OD, FCOVD Complete Eye Exams Vision Problem Evals Frames and Lenses Contacts
YOUR VISION SOLUTION
SEE your way to better DENTAL care! E-Mail: californiadental@hotmail.com E-Mail: californiaoptical@hotmail.com
www.CADentalOptical.com CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
(686) 577-0708 MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
www.mexicolivingguide.com
21
{SAN FELIPE, BAJA CALIFORNIA}}
BAKERY/PANADERÍA .............................. 686-577-2948 Panaderia Especial BANK/BANCO BBVA Bancomer......................................... 686-577-2224 Silvia Elizabeth Urbea, Preferred Customer’s Unit Ext. 13
BEAUTY SALONS/SALONES DE BELLEZA Lilly Ana’s Day Spot ............................ 686-577-6253 ....................................686-113-3682 Hair By Nancy
www.mexicolivingguide.com
ADULT CARE/ATENCION DE ADULTOS San Felipe Adult Living Facility.................... 686-576-0661
BUILDING MATERIALS/MATERIALES DE CONTRUCCIÓN ........................ 686-577-1515 Maderas de San Felipe
BANDS/BANDAS Agave Blues............................................... 686-184-9237 BARS/CLUBS .................. 686-577-1580 Al’s Backstreet Cantina The Beach Bar and Grill ........ 686-577-3144 The Green Door Bar (Los Algodones)............ 658-517-7347
Fandango’s . ................................... 686-577-0060 JollyMon.................................................... 686-213-5647
Los Arcos - Happy Jackass ............ 686-577-2585 . ........................................... 707-237-1906 V Lounge
CATERING The Latin Garden........................................ 686-209-6369 CHOCOLATE/CHOCOLATE . ....................... 686-576-0348 Baja Chocolate Lovers church Mission San Felipe..................................... 686-577-0877
Perez Construction..................................... 686-576-0650 COUNSELING-THERAPY/CONSULTA TERAPÉUTICA Inner Connection........................................ 686-172-8851 DELI Sand & Sea Market & Deli .................... 686-577-3168 SunDance Deli ..................................... 686-576-0369 DENTIST/DENTISTA California Dental Spa . .......................... 686-577-0708 Consultorio Dental Y de Ortodoncia ........... 686-577-6212
Dr. Felix Rodriguez...................................... 686-577-1919 Dr. Mario A. Garibay DDS (Los Algodones)...658-517-3286 CITY SERVICES/SERVICIOS DE LA CIUDAD District Attorney’s...................................... 686-577-1110 Mayors Office............................................ 686-577-1021 COFFEE & TEA/CAFÉ Y TE The Bistro (Java Jitters)............................. 686-114-7735 COMPUTER SERVICES Computing Integral Solutions...................... 686-577-2370 CSI Baja..................................................... 686-577-2928
Thank You ROTARY!
CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE CONSTRUCCIÓN San Felipe Management Services............... 686-576-0553
For Information call 686-576-8974 22
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Discount Store El Cheap-O................................................. 686-577-6263 DOCTORS/DOCTORES Dr. Victor Abasolo.......... 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174 ENTERTAINMENT/ENTRETENIMIENTO Name That Tune - Denny Flannigan............. 686-576-1683 The Singout Sisters & Chuey (Karaoke) .686-576-0047 EVENT SERVICES/servicios acontecimiento Produciones Baja....................................... 686-576-1683
The Rotary Club of San Felipe Meets every Monday 8 AM at the Barefoot Bar El Cortez Hotel
DEVELOPMENTS/FRACCIONAMIENTOS Casablanca................................................ 686-157-1728 Diamante Residencial................................. 686-569-2347 El Dorado Ranch........................................ 686-577-0015 La Perla Del Mar......................................... 760-458-7602 Playa de Oro ........................................ 686-576-0223 Playa del Paraiso.............................. 888-647-5292 x 704 San Rafael................................................. 686-576-0223
FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company........ ......................686-576-0653
Sweitzer Construction Management
..... 686-577-0195
SWEITZER CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT COMPANY BJ Sweitzer Consultant Carlos Mora Contractor
Phone: 577-0195 USA: 011-52-686-577-0195 Email: bejota10@aol.com
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
MexQuest Mortgage Corp..........Toll Free: 1-888-257-9162 FILM DEVELOPMENT/IMPRESION DE FOTOS Fotografia Alvarez....................................... 686-577-1144
{{SAN FELIPE, BAJA CALIFORNIA}
Perez Construction..................................... 686-236-4927
Construction DRIVER LICENSE INSURANCE Pé“Best rezinC onstruction PC Pérez Baja” “Best in Baja” 15% OFF Lupe Pérez, General Contractor * * * * * El Dorado Ranch * *5*Star * * Contractor El Dorado Ranch 5 Star Contractor
Baja Nueva
FURNITURE/MUEBLERÍA ......................................... 686-187-7795
Lupe Pérez, General Contractor 011.521.686.170.3979 011.521.686.170.3979
Jane Allen, Contract Manager Jane Allen, Contract Manager US: 480.600.2114 or MX: US: 480.600.2114 or MX: 011.521.686.236.4927 011.521.686.236.4927
Homeowners Insurance
Call or e-mail TODAY!
www.sanfelipehomesbyperez.com
Mail - YETMAIL 277 segurosalanis@prodigy.net.mx
bestinbaja@gmail.com
686-577-2464 • FAX 686-577-2916
www.sanfelipehomesbyperez.com bestinbaja@gmail.com
PMD Developments.................................... 638-105-9182 San Felipe Home Builders........................... 686-577-3176 GIFT BajaGlitz.................................................... 686-175-5420
LANDSCAPING/JARDINERÍA Mauricio's Landscaping.............................. 686-151-8002 Prestige Landscape and Maintenance......... 686-170-8651 Your Paradise...My Passion .............................................. 686-576-0664 Versoleil
Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)......... 686-577-1622 Orval Insurance...........................orvalquotes@gmail.com INTERIOR DESIGN/DISEÑO INTERIOR Baja Nueva................................................ 686-211-4676 INTERNET CAFE/CAFE DE INTERNET Soluciones Integrales en Computacions...... 686-577-2370
Unique Glitz Clothing and Accessories
(686) 175-5420
GOLF/GOLF Las Caras de Mexico.................................. 686-576-0517 Graphic Design/Diseño Gráfico GreetScape................................................ 686-188-2393 GYNECOLOGIST/GINECÓLOGO Annel Becerra Prado.................................. 686-577-6350 HATS/sombreros Band It....................................................... 686-123-5147
www.SanFelipeHomeBuilder.com
JEWELRY BajaTreasures............................................ 686-122-2668
Home Builders in San Felipe
Providing Quality, Integrity and Professionalism since 2005
San Felipe (686) 577-3176 San Diego (619) 920-2292 HOME CLEANING/LIMPIEZA DE CASAS Redwagon Property Services..................... 686-576-0081 Housekeeping - Jackie’s Home Help........... 686-228-7480
Silver and Bone-carved Jewelry Creations
(686) 122-2668
Kitchen/Bath Cocina/Bano Concepto Casa ..................... 686-576-0731
IMPORT SERVICES/SE RVICIOS DE IMPORTACIÓN San Felipe Storage Company...................... 686-576-0432
LAUNDRY SERVICE/LAVANDERÍA Wash Tub................................................... 686-577-2001
Insurance Alani’s Mexican Insurance.......................... 686-577-2464
LIFEGUARD/SALVAVIDAS San Felipe Lifeguards................................. 686-233-7730 Ask for Franscio LOCKSMITH/CERRAJERO Gomez Locksmith...................................... 686-221-8337 24 HR Service, Professional Service. Homes, Cars, Boats, Motorcycles, English Spoken Markets/Mercados Hipon/El Pelicano..............................686-577-0104/0204 Oasis BEST CIGARETTE PRICES................ 686-577-1276
HEALTH & fitness/SALUD Y ejercicio ........................................ 686-125-1555 Squats Gym HOME BUILDERS/CONTRATISTAS M & O Construction................................... 686-124-3908 Oscar Parra................................................ 686-163-6514 Oscar Perez............................................... 686-120-6506
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
www.mexicolivingguide.com
23
{SAN FELIPE, BAJA CALIFORNIA}} MASSAGE/MASAJE Casey’s Place (Massage)........................... 686-577-1431
Massage Therapy
FULL HOUR - ONLY $35
Call for an appointment
Yet Mail...................................................... 686-577-1255
Sand & Sea................................................ 686-577-3168 SunRunner Mail Center ........................ 686-147-6752 PUBLICATIONS/PUBLICACIONES Gringo Gazette........................................... 686-111-3692
686-577-1431
Satellite Internet
686-577-2928 shane@csibaja.com Mexico Living Magazine............................. 686-577-1377 San Felipe Newsletter................................. 686-577-2898
Optometrists/Opthamologists California Optical........................................ 686-577-0708 MaxivisionOptical = OpticaMaxivision........ 686-577-0320
SHOPPING MALL/CENTRO DE COMPRAS La Plazita................................................... 686-577-2119
Av. Mar de Cortez, Plaza San Felipe Visit us Online: www.csibaja.com
Meat Markets/Carnecerias Mercados Zsamaniegos Carnecerias (Z Market).......... 686-577-1676
REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Bill Maine................................................... 686-231-4921 Jim Moore.................................... MX Cell 686-184-9237 US 619-209-8486 REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES Amor Property .................................... 686-577-0611 Baja 24/7 Construction & Real Estate......... 686-577-6196
Solar Baja Solar Systems.................................... 686-111-0504 BC Solar Cooking....................................... 686-106-9693 SPECIALTY STORES Sea of Cortez Salt...................................... 686-209-0074 SPORT FISHING Azteca Sport Fishing and Tours.................. 686-577-0741
SERVICE ORGANIZATIONS/ ORGANIZACIONES DE SERVICIO Club Las Amigas........................................ 686-202-0455 San Felipe Lions Club................................. 686-212-3599
Desert Hawk.............................................. 686-577-1244 Sea Mexico Realty (SMR)........................... 686-576-0223 REAL ESTATE SERVICES/servicios DE BIENES RAÍCES Baja Closing & Escrow Services................. 686-576-0653 RECREATION/RECREACIÓN San Felipe Sailing-Sailing Lessons.............. 686-114-3259 Aerodynamic - Ultralight flights . ................ 686-116-2933
PHARMACY/FARMACIA Botica “Sagrado Corazon”.......................... 686-577-1294
Santa Fe Pharmacy ................................... 686-576-0546
PHYSICAL THERAPY Adrienne Streppel.....................................(686) 576-0339
POLICE/POLICÍA Federal Preventive Police ........................... 686-577-1045 Police ....................................................... 686-577-1134 PRINTERS/IMPRESORAS Papeleria Copicentro.................................. 686-577-1402 The Print Supplier....................................... 686-230-9933 PROPERTY MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE PROPIEDADES Casey’s Place............................................ 686-577-1431 Custom Vacation Homes............................ 928-277-6863 928-277-7559 & visit www.sanfelipevacations.com Enjoy Baja.................................................. 686-576-0697 Redwagon Property Services..................... 686-576-0081 POSTAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS POSTALES
24
San Felipe Rotary....................................... 686-576-0112
Computer & Satellite Installation Also Computers, Cell Phones, and DVD Rentals
www.sanfelipe.tv
MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS Ambulance................................................ 686-577-0500 Baja Medical Center................................... 686-576-0200 Health Center............................................ 686-577-1521 Red Cross.................................................. 686-577-1544 Dr. Victor Abasolo.......... 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174 MOVING San Felipe Moving & Storage...................... 686-576-0432
SATELLITE TELEVISION & INTERNET/ TELEVISION SATELITALES Y INTERNET CSI - Computer & Satellite Installation........ 686-577-2928
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
{{SAN FELIPE, BAJA CALIFORNIA}
STORAGE/ALMACÉN San Felipe Moving & Storage...................... 686-576-0432 Move from ANYWHERE in the USA to ANYWHERE in Mexico!
Let our team of professionals handle everything for you
A Z
From
to
MX (686) 576-0432 E-mail: sfelipe3@prodigy.net.mx
www.sanfelipesafestorage.com TATTOOING/TATUAJES Baja Ink Spot Tattoo & Body Piercing.......... 686-577-0746 TIRE SHOP/lLANTERA Llantera Aguilar.......................................... 686-192-8462 TRANSLATION/TRADUCCIÓN Carlota Villagran B...................................... 686-212-9951 TRANSPORTATION/TRANSPORTACIÓN Airport....................................................... 686-577-1368 Taxi Service............................................... 686-577-1293 Bus Station ............................................... 686-577-1516 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos Electric (CFE)................. 686-577-1060 or 686-577-5602 Estrella Azul (Water Dispensery)................. 686-577-1314 Propane Gas.............................................. 686-577-2373 State Com. of Services Public.................... 686-556-1383 Telnor Phone Co......................................... 686-577-1000 Water Company......................................... 686-577-1022 VETERINARY/VETERINARIO Desert Veterinary Group...........................(760) 355-0141
Hospital Animal.......................................... 686-577-1688 PETS......................................................... 686-577-2155 Veterinaria Mundo Animal........................... 686-577-2663 WASTE MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE DESHECHO San Felipe Disposal.................................... 686-121-1004
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
www.mexicolivingguide.com
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{Places to Stay}}
Costa Azul ......................................... 800-800-9632 Grand Baja Resort (Puerto Nuevo) ............................................ 877-315-1002
ENSENADA RV Park/Parque de RV Mona Lisa RV Park.........................................646-177-5100 Popotla R.V. Park............................................661-612-1501 Motels/Moteles America Motel .........................................646-176-1333 Rudis Motel . ..........................................646-176-3245 Ensenada Inn.................................................646-176-1361 Hotel El Joker.................................................646-177-5151 Posada Don Fernando....................................646-177-0127 Azteca Inn......................................................646-177-4015
Playas de Rosarito RV Park/Parque de RV Baja Season RV Parks................................ 661-628-6128 Popotla R.V. Park....................................... 661-612-1501 Motel Camino Inn................................................ 661-612.2803 Hotel / Condo Baja Rentals.................................. www.BajaCatalina.com Bobby’s Baja by the Sea ................. 661-614-1135
El Dorado Ranch
SMALL RV PARK WITH
BIG SPACES
El Dorado Ranch invites you to the 2010 International Blues & Arts Fiesta Saturday - March 27, 2010 Book your accommodations NOW and Receive a
15% Discount
*Reservations must be booked by Feb 15, 2010
FOR PERMANENT LIVING
11 Miles North of Town in a very quiet community. Only 9 Permanent spacious RV lots. Close to the BEACH!
Amenities available to all guests: • Solar Heated Pool • Shady Palapa • BBQ
http://www.haciendad-sol.com/earl/ La Paz, Baja California Sur Mexico
1-800-404-2599 or 011-526-86-576-0717 ext. 4026
marvin.davila@doradoranch.com.mx or edoebereiner@eldoradoranch.com www.eldoradoranch.com/vacations/accommodations.htm
26
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Hotel Best Western El Cid........................................646-178-2401 Corona Hotel .........................................646-176-0901 Costa Azul . ..................................800-800-9632 Grand Baja Resort (Puerto Nuevo) . ..............................................877-315-1002 Hotel Coral & Marina ........646-175-0000 Hotel La Fonda ........................646-155-0007 Posada El Rel Sol . ..................................646-178-1601 San Nicolas Hotel...........................................646-176-1901 Oxidox Cafe...................................................646-178-8827 Rentals Baja Rentals...................................... www.BajaCatalina.com
TEL: 011-52-612-123-5440 & haciendadelsol1@gmail.com
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
{{Places to Stay}
Hacienda de la Langosta Roja
SAN FELIPE RV Park/Parque de RV Club de Pesca............................................ 686-577-1180 Kiki's RV Park on the Beach........................ 686-577-2021 Rentals Baja Bill's Property Managment.................. 686-577-4014 Casey’s Place ....... 686-577-1431 MySanFelipeVacation.com........................(686) 109-0579 Rancho del Sol . ................... 686-231-4921 Sandollar Condotels................................... 686-123-7688 Places to Stay…Rentals…Sandollar Condotels Seaside Shangri-La Apartment................... 686-577-1573 Su Casa Elegante ........................ 686-577-0745 Motels/Hotels La Hacienda de la Langosta Roja................ 686-577-0483 Marina Resort ........................... 686-577-1569 Olympia Motel (Los Algodones).................. 658-517-7347
by Benjamin Eugene
The Villa Group Announces Updates on Loreto Projects Owen Perry, a partner in the highly successful The Villa Group, one of Mexico’s leading privatelyowned real estate development companies, has announced a number of updates in its Loreto, Baja Sur, Mexico projects. The first is the opening of the Hotel Santa Fe, a 125-room hotel in downtown Loreto; its sister property, also owned by The Villa Group, is located in Cabo San Lucas. The Hotel Santa Fe is located at the entrance of town next to the famous Domingo’s restaurant.
RV Parks San Felipe, BC
Kiki’s RV Camping Hotel on the beach, near downtown and shopping. Nicely maintained park right on the shores of the Sea of Cortez and near the baseball field, making it an ideal RV spot for the Blues and Arts weekend.
The downtown area of the resort town has been completely renovated. In addition, a new passenger terminal opened, which gives Loreto’s international airport state-of–the-art facilities. The new five-star Villa Del Palmar-Loreto is under construction and is scheduled to open in October 2010. The property, themed as eco-friendly, is designed so the colors of the property blend into the natural scenery; low-density lights allow the stars themselves to be the show at night. Redwagon Property Services has been offering rental services since 1999. They have beachfront condos, long-term rentals, vacation rentals, property for sale, property management and complete cleaning services.
Rentals/Property Management
Sandollar Condotels has luxury beachfront accommodations, gated and secure with twobedroom units, a private beach and amazing views. It’s conveniently located close to town with handicap access and FREE WiFi.
San Felipe, BC
Loreto, BCS
MySanFelipeVacation.com provides you a pleasurable stay in San Felipe, with their fabulous El Dorado Ranch homes. San Felipe Vacation Rental Homes provide the finest luxury available. Long- and short-term rentals include single-family homes and the very popular golf course.
Stainloreto.com offers beachside vacation living, either in a house or condo. Enjoy luxury living with a full kitchen, private patio, WiFi high-speed Internet access and solar heated swimming pool. $72 per night, or $900 per week.
sailboat rides and fishing trips, and you can also rent four-wheelers and cruise around the streets and boardwalk. Below the hotel is one of the premiere restaurants in San Felipe that offers Italian-style seafood unequalled in the area. The restaurant serves delicious steaks, chops and chicken, pasta, and more at reasonable prices. If you are looking to hang out, there are lots of great bars and clubs in the area including the comfortable V Lounge, Lighthouse Restaurant and the world-famous Backstreet Cantina, or you can stroll the Malecon, which is always full of activity. Rates for Single/Double Rooms (U.S., including tax) are $49 Sunday–Thursday and $59 Friday–Saturday. Come and stay at the comfortable La Hacienda de la Langosta Roja and let them spoil you with their warm Mexican hospitality. Reservations: (800) 967-0005 or email reservations@ sanfelipelodging.com.
MULEGÉ Bed & Breakfasts Clementine’s B&B.......................................615-153-0319 Casa del Los Suenos B&B...........................615-155-4087 Hotel Desert Inn...................................................200-124-9122 Hotel Serenidad...........................................615-153-0530 Mulegé Hotel...............................................615-153-0090 San Buenaventura Hotel..............................615-153-5616 Terrazas Hotel.............................................615-153-0009 RV Oasis Rio Baja............................................615-153-0425 Villa Maria Isabel RV Park............................615-153-0246
LORETO Villa Del Palmar-Loreto
Photo by GBG & Associates
Hacienda de la Langosta Roja, aka the Red Lobster, is a newly refurbished hotel, under new management! Located centrally in San Felipe, only two blocks from the beach and downtown shopping and dining. The hotel has just been renovated and reopened to offer their guests the most comfortable setting available in San Felipe. All the rooms have been recently restored with new furniture and are kept very clean.
Don’t expect anything luxurious, with many frills or pool. You won’t find a phone in your room either, but, who do you want to call anyway? However, what you can expect are rooms that are always clean and comfortable, and at a great price. You can also expect the reception staff, housekeeping, security, wait staff, bartenders or any staff member you meet to always be helpful and cheerful. The rooms have a small 19-inch TV with about 15 channels; but, you’re on vacation in Mexico, so who really cares? There are alcove closets without doors; you’ll always have hot water in the shower, with great water pressure; and air conditioning that works. The hotel is a short two blocks walk to the beach on San Felipe Bay. There is always plenty to see on the beach; banana boat rides, the Pina Colada trucks, street vendors, Panga fisherman and lots of families! Spring through fall the water is warm, but anytime of year the huge tide change makes for fun beach exploration. There is also
The property will be the largest of all The Villa Group’s properties with 161 one-, two- and three-bedroom villas with a large common area and pools. Perry says the group has US$60 million invested in Loreto and is strongly committed to the location.
Hotels/Motels Playas de Rosarito, BC
Poco Cielo Hotel, loosely translated, means “little heaven.” Their small, private hotel has nine intimate guest rooms, an on-site restaurant and cantina. Located halfway between Rosarito and Ensenada in the La Misión area. $56–$123 depending on the theme of the room.
Loreto, BCS
La Damiana Inn offers a unique and intimate stay in the heart of the historic district. Originally built in the 1930s for a General in the Mexican Army, the house was renovated into an Inn in 2005. Six beautiful rooms with private bathrooms, living room, kitchen and more. Motel El Dorado is the newest addition to the picturesque historic district of Loreto. Just across from the beautiful Loreto Mission and a block from the Malecon.
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Motel Motel El Dorado..................................686-613-135-1500 Hotel Hacienda Suites..........................................613-135-1693 Hotel Coco Cabana.....................................613-135-1729 Hotel Luna..................................................613-135-2288 Hotel Oasis (in Mexico)......................... 01-800-624-9449 ............................................Toll free US: 1 866 482 0247 La Damiana Inn...........................................613-135-0356 La Daminanas.............................................613-135-0356 La Mision Hotel...........................................613-134-0350 Tripui Hotel..................................................613-133-0818 Rentals Coco-cabanas............................................613-135-1729 El Tiburon Casitas...............................US (805) 748-4566 Hamman’s Vacaciones................................613-135-0791 Villas de las Palmas....................................613-135-2256 ............................................................ US 760-603-8313
LA PAZ Hotels Araiza Inn Palmira ......................................612-121-6200 Club El Moro ..............................................612-122-4084 Crowne Plaza . ...........................................612-124-0830 La Casa Jalisco...........................................612-12-84311 La Concha Beach Resort . ..........................612-121-6344 La Posada de Engelbert .............................612-122-4011 La Posada de Las Flores ............................612-125-5871 Los Arcos ..................................................612-122-2744 Marina Hotel ..............................................612-121-6254 Mediterrane ...............................................612-125-1195 Seven Crown Hotel ....................................612-128-7787
CABO SAN LUCAS Hotel Baja Vacations........................................... 877-462-2226 Barcelo Hotels and Resort........................(624) 146-7500 Cabo Surf Hote.......................................... 624-142-2666 Desire Resort & Spa.................................. 624-142-9300 Posada Chabela......................................... 624-172-6495 Posada Real Best Western................................................. ............................................................... 624-142 - 0155 Suites Las Palmas...................................... 624-142-2131
SAN JOSE DEL CABO Hotel Bahia Hotel....................................... .........624-143-1888 Best Western Cabo Las Flores Hotel........... 624-143-6199 Casa Pablito...................................... .........624-143-1971 Hotel and Plaza Los Arcos ........................ 624-143-0702 Mar de Cortez Hotel.......................... .........624-143-0032 Siesta Suites Hotel............................ .........624-143-2773
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
www.mexicolivingguide.com
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{Places to Eat}}
Playas de Rosarito
American Food La Bamba ........................................... 661-100-2560 Steak & Seafood Bobby’s Baja by the Sea ..................... 661-614-1135 Vince’s Old Pier ............................ 661-612-1253
Great Breakfast at Restaurant Sagitario in Loreto by Benjamin Eugene
ENSENADA
Loreto has some great restaurants offering cuisine to satisfy most culinary desires. However, finding a great breakfast can be a chore. Don’t get me wrong, Loreto offers some great breakfast choices, but a favorite would have to be at Restaurant Sagitario, located at the Rivera del Mar RV park. They’ve been in business for four years now, and offer
Mexican Casa Mar Restaurant Bar................................646-174-0417 www.restaurantcasamar.com Magana’s.......................................................646-155-0586 Steak & Seafood El Rey Sol......................................................646-178-1601 . ...............646-178-3271 La Mansion de Ensenada
SAN FELIPE American Los Arcos . ...........................686-577-2585 Baja Java .....................................686-577-2465 Baja Jimmys...............................................686-139-7373 Beach Bar & Grill ................... 686-577-3144 Blowin’ Smoke BBQ .................................. 686-576-0710 Breakfast The Bistro “Java Jitters” ........686-114-7735 Burgers Baja Burger.................................................686-577-2465 Chilis & Burgers..........................................686-577-6196 Ice Cream Chumpo’s Pizza and Ice Cream...................686-577-0085 Japanese Oshii Japanese Restaurant..........................686-184-9790 Mexican The Beach Bar and Grill ..........686-577-3144 El Apetito....................................................686-139-1943 El Club........................................................686-577-1175 Juanitos (El Colorado) ........................686-133-6500 La Palapa Bar & Grill ..............686-200-4083 Mi Casa es Tu Casa.....................................686-577-1495 Rancho Alegre .........................686-576-0648 Restaurant Playa Azul .........................686-120-9051 Rice & Beans ........................................686-577-1770 Rosita . ..........................................686-577-1903 Pizza Fatboy’s .............................686-577-4092 Los Arcos - Happy Jackass . ...........686-577-2585 Popeye’s Pizza............................................686-577-1122 Rabbit Pizza Delivery...................................686-577-0987 Seafood MariscosLaMorena Spanish Miguel & Paco .................................686-111-2257 Steak & Seafood Al’s Backstreet Cantina ..................686-577-1580 Green House...............................................686-181-6358 El Nido .................................................686-577-1028 Lighthouse Restaurant .............686-577-2540 Los Arcos . ....................................686-577-2585 Fine Dining The Latin Garden.........................................686-209-6369 2-Highway 5 KM 183, San Felipe, BC Pavilion Restaurant ................686-577-0022
Finger Licking Memphis-Style BBQ in San Felipe by Benjamin Eugene
Memphis is a city that takes great pride in its barbecue. They claim to have the best in the world and have become famous for it. But what most people don’t know is that Memphis-style Barbecue is available in San Felipe, at Blowin’ Smoke BBQ & Grill. Memphis barbecue sauce has its own distinctive flavor. Though the specific ingredients will vary from cook to cook, Memphis sauce is usually made with tomatoes, vinegar and any countless combination of spices. It is generally thin, tangy
MULEGÉ Mexican La Casitas...................................................615-153-0019 Tacos y Pollos “Del Castillo”........................615-153-0378
LORETO Bar & Seafood Augie’s bar & Bait Shop............................. 613-135-1224 Breakfast Restaurant Sagitario....................................613-135-0718 Mediterranean Mediterraneo.............................................. 613-135-2571 Mexican 1697.......................................................... 613-135-2538 La Cascada Restauran............................... 613 135-0550 Mita Gourmet............................................. 613-135-2025
LA PAZ
Cafe Capri...................................................624-123-3737 Gorilla’s Grill1.............................................612-128-8095 Le Bistrot Francais......................................612-125-6080
CABO SAN LUCAS American Applebee’s..................................................624-172-6472 Asian Baan Thai Pan Asian Restaurant and Bar.....624-142-3344 Burgers & More Baja Brewing Company...............................624-146-9995
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an authentic “breakfast Americana” with eggs, a choice of bacon, real sausage, potatos, pancakes or toast for only 45 pesos. Of course, in addition to breakfast, they have spectacular Mexican food including chile rellenos, shrimp tacos, and even hamburgers, too. Everything on the menu is delicious and at a good price. The most expensive items on their menu are rib eye and T-bone steaks for only 110 pesos. The restaurant is run by Yolanda and Yola, a mother and daughter team that know how to provide great food and great service. Enjoy your meal either indoors or on their outside patio. Just two blocks from the beach, on the north end of Francisco I Madero. The restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. You can reach them at (613) 135-0718.
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
SAN FELIPE, BC
Blowin’ Smoke in north San Felipe offers true Memphis-style slow smoked ribs, pulled pork, chicken parts and award-winning beef tritip. Healthy portions and great atmosphere, homemade coleslaw, potato salad, corn on the cob, and very cold beer. Sundance Deli in north San Felipe offer deli meats, cheese, as well as regular prepared meals, such as meatloaf, sandwiches, hot wings, pizza, soups and breads, all made from scratch. They’re also a complete grocer with dairy, vegetables and all your staples. The Pavilion Restaurant on Las Cares de Mexico Golf Course at La Ventana del Mar has a full menu of meats and seafood dishes and a great affordable breakfast. Mariscos La Morena More than clams at La
and somewhat sweet, and when Memphis sauce is poured over pulled pork—OH YES, BABY! Blowin’ Smoke BBQ in San Felipe knows how to serve up a BBQ feast with all the best BBQ sides, like coleslaw, corn on the cob and baked beans. Their Memphis-style slow smoked BBQ, pulled pork or smoked beef sandwich are a flavor to savor. When the plate hits the table, conversations stop and the feasting begins. Great Memphis-style BBQ, ice cold cerveza, comfortable dining and reasonable prices. If
Morena, their beef, chicken and shrimp is sure to delight. Great service and perfect location for entertaining out-of-town guests..
you’re looking for some finger-licking good BBQ, stop by Blowin’ Smoke BBQ in San Felipe, just north of town in front of Playa San Rafael on highway 5 at KM 178, or give them a call at (686) 576-0710, or email Baja.bbq@gmail. com.
during happy hour Monday through Friday, plus extremely cold beer, full bar and good friends.
Fatboy’s Pizza downtown on the corner of Chetumal and Mar de Cortez offers great pizza, excellent salads, delicious hot and cold sandwiches, and more. And now you’ll be able to find Fat’s downtown and north at Playa de Oro.
Loreto Islas is aptly named; a seaside restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows that face east onto the Malecon, the Sea of Cortez and Isla del Carmen. Loreto Islas’ menu is simple, made with the freshest produce and ranch-fresh eggs and chicken. Islas also serves the freshest seafood available, caught and prepared the same day.
LORETO, BCS
PUERTO PEÑASCO, SONORA
Augie’s Bar and Bait Shop on the Malecon is always a favorite for locals and visitors alike, wonderful sushi, Mexican favorites as well as burgers and breakfast. Augie even has free food
Thirsty Parrot upstairs on the Malecon of Old Port is great fun for everyone. Wonderful food, atmosphere, people and view. Come for the food, full bar and good time.
Family owned and operated Restaurant Sagitario at Rivera del Mar RV park in downtown Loreto opened last month, offering true Mexican value and incredible flavor.
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Giuseppe’s Coffee on Fremont is a familyowned and operated coffeehouse and diner with great coffee and wonderful breakfast and lunch. Check out the Sunday breakfast buffet.
Cactus Jack's Bar and Grill..........................624-142-5601 Die Trying Cafe...........................................624-142-5657 Coffee & Baked Correcaminos Cafe.....................................624-142-3510 International Local Eight Restaurant................................624-142-6655 Havana Supper Club....................................624-142-2603 Italian & Pizza Buon Appetito.............................................624-142 4040 La Dolce Italian Restaurant..........................624-142-6621 Mexican Don Emiliano Restaurant.............................624-142-0266 Casianos Restaurant................................... 624 142 5928 Brisa Beach Club and Restaurant...................624-142-244 Habanero's Restaurant................................624-142-2626 Jazmin Restaurant.......................................624-142-1760
4 years in business
Seafood La Panga Antigua Restaurant and Bar..........624-142-4041 Steak La Bodega Steak and wine house................624-142-6619
Lorenzillo’s......................624-105-0212 The Blue Turtle.................624-143-1118 Villa Serena......................624-145-8244 International Peacocks.........................624-143-1858
SAN JOSE DEL CABO Mexican Panchos.....................................................624-143-2891 Ay... Chihuahua...........................................624-143-3280 Baja Cantina................................................624-143-0225 Margaritaville..............................................624-143-7401 Mi Casa......................................................624-143-1933 Restaurant Pancho’s & Tequila Bar..............624-143-2891 Seafood La Golondrina.............................................624-143-0542
8 years in business
Restaurant Sagitario & Rivera del Mar Francisco I. Madero Norte No. 100 C.P. 23880 Loreto, BCS Mex. Telephone 011 52 613 13 50718 www.riveradelmar.com Email: lanyvall@yahoo.com Good American breakfast and Mexican food, we have very good service. Restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch 8:00 am - 3:00 pm
{{Places to eat}
PUERTO PEÑASCO American Maxs Cafe .......................... 638-383-1011 Breakfast Giuseppe’s Coffee .............. 638-383-5181 Marios Coffee – On the entrance to the Malecon Charbroiled Chicken Pollo Lucas – Blvd Benito Juarez “under the big Palapa” Cuban Food Restaurant Habana Vieja...... 638-383-6909 Leon de Barra #161 and Guillermo Prieto -Col Centro International Aladinos Restaurant............. 638-383-6175 Changos Bar and Cantina..... 638-382-8648 In front of Sonora Spa Debbie’s Restaurant – On the Malecon upstairs Old Port Thirsty Parrot ............... 636-388-7068 On the Malecon Mexican Betos Place ........................ 638-383-5198 On the Malecon Old Port #40 Charros Restaurant – Blvd Benito Juarez in the Jim Bur Plaza Cocodrilos .......................... 638-383-6376 La Cocina de Ramon – Ave FCO Gonzales Boca Negra #261 La Curva . ........................... 638-383-3470 Manny’s Beach Club ........... 638-383-3605 Viva Mexico Taco stand just off the Malecon Fundadore Pizza Augustin’s Pizza and Wings.638-383-1699 13th Street in front of Kenos Capones Pizza – Sinaloa Street next to Playa Inn Steak & Seafood Bestos Place........................ 638-114-3917 El Conchal Seafood.............. 638-383-8173 Friendly Dolphin .......................................... 638-383-2608 Jerrys Restaurant – On the Malecon Old Port
Lighthouse .................................................638-383-2389 Latitude 31 Rest. & Sports Bar....................638-383-4311 Mariscos el Conchal – Blvd Benito Juarez #79 Giuseppi’s Espresso
What’s Healthier than a Salad?
Augie’s Bar & Bait Shop!
Giuseppi’s Soup and Salad Bar
Blvd. Fremont, Puerto Peñasco
www.giuseppis.info
The Pavilion Restaurant
20% off
Where it feels like Home!
Any breakfast, lunch or dinner expires 31-Dec-2009
Excluding shrimp or scallops dishes. Not valid with any other special. Items only discounted off regular price. Contact cesar.quirarte@doradoranch.com.mx
Loreto’s best Happy Hour
Now in TWO LOCATIONS
NEW SPOT!
Everyday 4pm - 7pm
At Playa de Oro next to Sand & Sea Market for PIZZA TAKE-OUT!
Augie’s Free Happy hour Specials Mon - Gringo Tacos Tues - Ceveche & 1/2 off Sushi Wed - Clams Thurs - Pizza Friday - Hot Wings
Mar de Cortez & Chetumal for
PIZZA
MEXICO LIVING
Free Breakfast Sundays* Tortilla Soup DAILY
Best of
Baked Ziti!
2008
www.augiesBARloreto.com 613-135-1224
*with purchase of alcoholic beverage
one (1) alcoholic North Phone *with purchase ofIn-town Phonebeverage
(686) 577-3168 (686) 577-4092
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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29
{Mulegé, baja california sur}} Mulegé DIRECTORY
www.mexicolivingguide.com/mulege
PLACES TO EAT
Tours/adventures
PLACES TO STAY
Baja Tropicales................................................ 615-153-0320
See the Dining Guide on page 26.
MULEGE BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR
Mulegé is situated at the mouth of the Río Santa Rosalía (26°53´17˝N 111°58´53˝W), in the state of Baja California Sur, 38 miles south of Santa Rosalia, at the mouth of Bahía de Concepción. In 2005, the reported population was 3,317. Nestled between two hills in a lush tropic palm
oasis divided by a shaded river that runs towards an estuary that flows to the sea, Mulegé is rich in history with lots of great sites to see, including the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, founded in 1705; the old state penitentiary, finished in 1907; and the Sierra de Guadalupe cave paintings. Outdoor activities abound, from mountain biking,
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
See the Dining Guide on page 28
scuba diving and kayaking to deep sea fishing. The cold northern current and the warm southern current come together to create an environment great for catching some of the 100 different species of fish in the Mulegé waters. By land, Mulegé is 650 miles south of the San Diego/Tijuana border crossing on Mexican Highway 1,
Mulegé Sportfishing....................................615-153-0482 Cortez Explorers..........................................615-153-0500
and in 2010, via Highway 5 through San Felipe. By Air, Mulegé is served by three airstrips: Hotel Serenidad Airstrip (El Gallito), the Mulegé Municipal and Punta San Pedro. Regional flights are available at the Palo Verde Airport, and international flights are available at the Loreto Airport.
{Loreto, baja california sur}} When in need of an ambulance, please call the Police number first (they will dispatch the call) and then the Fire Department number. Police number is 135-0035 or 135-0036. By following this procedure, you can be assured of being assisted.
www.mexicolivingguide.com/loreto
PLACES TO EAT See the Dining Guide on page 28.
PLACES TO STAY See the Dining Guide on page 26.
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) AIRPORT Loreto International Airport......................... 613-135-0565 BUS Loreto Bus Terminal................................... 613-135-0767
TOURISM Loreto Tourism Office..................................613-135-0411 MEDICAL Red Cross...................................................613-135-1111 Centro de Salud
Hospital Tours/adventures Baja Tropicales................................................ 615-153-0320
Mulegé Sportfishing....................................615-153-0482 Cortez Explorers..........................................615-153-0500
Holland America Cruise Ship 2010 Schedule
LORETO BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR
Loreto, founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionaries, was the first Spanish settlement on the east coast of the Baja California peninsula. Loreto, situated on the Sea of Cortez, 26º00’46” N 111º20’36” W, served as the capital of the province of Las Californias from its founding until the capital was moved to Monterey on February 3, 1777. The 2005 census reported a population of 10,283. Today Loreto is a tourist resort, catering mostly to U.S. travelers, with daily flights from California arriving at Loreto International Airport. Many of the American
tourists enjoy fishing in “pangas” for “dorado” (Mahimahi or Dolphin Fish). Local restaurants will even prepare the daily catch of the tourists. Loreto has an excellent museum alongside the historic, but still active, parish. The Spanish Fathers found a steady spring of fresh water on this site. Loreto’s climate is hot and humid, with abundant sunshine (desert with some rainfalls in summer). The medium temperature is 76 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperatures are hot from June through October. These summer days have highs around 93 degrees Fahrenheit and high humidity.
Beach-side Vacation condo or house rentals
www.stayinloreto.com C ontaCt L ynn H amman 011-52-613-135-0791
lynnhamman@yahoo.com
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The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
February 8 • 10 a.m. – 11 p.m. March 5 • 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. March 30 • 8 a.m. – 11 p.m. April 29 • 8 a.m. – 5 p.m
Get the Guide At: Coco Cabanas Hotel Tipui Silver Shop La Daminana Loreto Islas Tiburon Rentals Rentals Loreto Dali’s Alexander Real Estate Mita Gourmet
El Dorado Motel El Canaveral Augie’sBar and Bait Shop Mission Hotel Oasis Hotel Desert Inn Del Borracho Rivia del Mar RV Park
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
{{La Paz, baja california sur}
LA PAZ
www.mexicolivingguide.com/lapaz
La Paz (“The Peace”) is the capital city of Baja California Sur located at 24.1405°N 110.3123°Wand is an important commercial center. Its surrounding municipality, which is the fourth-largest municipality in Mexico in geographical size, in 2005 reported a population of 219,596 living on 7,828.2 square miles of land. La Paz is typically dry and warm with averages of 75–77 degrees Fahrenheit, and 300 days or better of sunshine annually. Summer months are often in the 90’s and can be humid. The winter months can drop below 60, but stays mostly in the mid-60’s. During the summer the cooling Coromuel winds, a weather phenomenon unique to the La Paz area, blow from Bahia de La Paz keeping the temperature mild. By Air, La Paz is served by Manuel Márquez de León International Airport with flights to the U.S., Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey. Two ferry services operate from Pichilingue outside the city, connecting the Baja California peninsula to the mainland at Mazatlán and Topolobampo. By Road, La Paz is served mainly by two highways, Highway 1 that links the south of the state from Cabo San Lucas to the north of the peninsula until Tijuana, and Highway 19, which connects La Paz with the population of the South Pacific towns like Todo Santos and El Pescadero.
LA PAZ DIRECTORY
Charter Sailing The Sea of Cortez from La Paz in a
Macgregor 26x or Herreshoff H28FG
http://www.sailing-baja.com
More info email
info@hacienda-sol.com 001-52-612-123-5440
GOVERNMENT SEMATUR...................................................612-125-8899 Baja California Sur State Government..........612-124-0199 La Paz Post Office Real Estate services Omni Services............................................612-123-4888
PLACES TO EAT See the Dining Guide on page 28.
Omni Services
Your Mexico Real Estate Specialists In La Paz, Mexico
PLACES TO STAY See the Dining Guide on page 26.
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) FERRY SERVICE Baja Ferries.................................................612-125-7443
Baja Mexico Real Estate! La Paz Mexico Real Estate! Your Buyer’s Broker!
omni@osmx.com (612)123-4888 www.osmx.com
{{san jose del cabo, baja california sur} SAN JOSE DEL CABO DIRECTORY
www.mexicolivingguide.com/sanjosedelcabo
PLACES TO EAT See the Dining Guide on page 28.
PLACES TO STAY See the Dining Guide on page 26.
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) DENTISTS Cabo Cosmetic DentaL................................624-143-0520
SAN JOSE DEL CABO San José del Cabo is located in Baja California Sur and is the seat of the municipality of Los Cabos at the south end of the Baja California peninsula. In the 2005 census it had a population of 48,518. Together with neighboring Cabo San Lucas it
forms a major tourist destination for travelers, particularly from North America. The two cities are served by Los Cabos International Airport. San José del Cabo offers you tranquility and old world charm, wonderful gift shops showcasing the art of Mexico, fabulous restaurants, fishing, golf, surfing and all the nighttime entertainment
you seek. Or you can just relax on one of our many pristine white sand beaches. For nature lovers, a beautiful protected estuary with a variety of fish, turtles, dolphins, exotic marine animals and over 100 species of birds is located on the southeast edge of the city. And the historic artist colony of Todos Santos is an
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
easy one-hour drive to the north, along the scenic Pacific Ocean. Local residents take pride in restoring the town’s 18th century architecture and preserving its quiet, laid-back ambiance.
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
www.mexicolivingguide.com
31
{cabo san lucas, baja california sur}} www.mexicolivingguide.com/cabosanlucas
Cabo San Lucas DIRECTORY PLACES TO EAT See the Dining Guide on page 28.
PLACES TO STAY See the Dining Guide on page 26.
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
Cabo San Lucas Marina..............................624-143-1766 Utilities TELMEX......................................................624-143-0001 Tourist Assistance.......................................624-143-0016 Drinking Water............................................624-143-0228 Electric Power Co........................................624-143-0064 Tourism & Immigration Services Public Services...........................................624-143-2786 Immigration................................................624-146-5229
Police State Police.................................................624-143-0296 Highway Patrol............................................624-143-3977 Federal Police..............................................624-143-1210 Medical Alcoholics Anonymous................................624-147-5516 Ambulances................................................624-143-4020 Social Security Hospital...............................624-143-1548 Health Center..............................................624-143-0102 Red Cross...................................................624-143-3300 City Chamber of Commerce...............................624-143-0437 Family Protection........................................624-143-0586 Gas Leaks...................................................624-143-1292 Marine Harbor Master.............................................624-143-4771
CABO SAN LUCAS
The warmth of the waters, the beauty of its beaches, the abundance of fish, the raucous party atmosphere, a resort studded Tourist Corrider that stretches between the twin towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo in miles of pristine white beaches, and other qualities is quickly making Cabo San Lucas a highend vacation destination.
Cabo San Lucas (aka Los Cabos or San José del Cabo in Mexico, and Cabo in the U.S.) is at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula at 22.88°N 109.90°W, in the state of Baja California Sur. As of the 2005 census, the population was 56,811. It is the largest community in Los Cabos, and the second-largest in Baja California Sur.
Cabo San Lucas has the largest Marlin tournament in the world. In the winter, pods of whales can be observed in the ocean bearing their calves in the warm waters. Served by the Los Cabos International Airport for general aviation flights and air taxi service, the town is also a popular port of call for many cruise ships.
Exclusive hotels and gated residential communities attract the rich and famous in this wondrous region known as “The Corridor.” Considered some of Latin America’s top resorts, many of these properties have become havens to Hollywood stars, Fortune 500 CEOs and even the U.S. president during the 2002 Asia-Pacific Economic Conference (APEC).
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Radio Antenna
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Named “Pueblo Mágico” in 2006, is a small coastal town at the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains, on the Pacific coast of the Baja California Peninsula, about an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas and an hour south from La Paz. Located at 23°26′56″N 110°13′32″W, Todos Santos is very near the Tropic of Cancer in the municipality of La Paz. The population was 4,078 at the census of 2005. During the 19th century Todos Santos thrived as the Baja sugarcane capital. Now the rich farmlands have been reworked and the town prospers from an abundance of avocado, vegetable and chili farming, papaya and mango orchards, fishing and ranching. The mission Nuestra Señora del Pilar de La Paz was founded by father Jaime Bravo in 1723. This mission contains the statue of the Virgin of Pilar, which is the focus of the town’s main festival in October. More recently, there has been an increase in tourist activity and a boom in real estate development. Handicraft shops, art galleries, upscale restaurants, boutique hotels and restored colonial buildings have contributed to the gentrification and redevelopment of the town. There are many beautiful beaches within a 30-minute drive. Playa Las Palmas and Playa Los Cerritos are great beaches for swimming and shell collecting, and Los Cerritos attracts surfers from around the world.
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Todos Santos
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) Art Galleries Galeria La Poza...........................................612-145-0400 Charles Stewart Gallery/Studio....................612-145-0265 Colores de Mexico......................................612-145-0106 Ezra Katz Gallery.........................................612-137-3473 Galeria Arturo.............................................612-145-0773 Galeria de Kathleen Gambogi.......................612-145-0460 Michael Cope..............................................612-145-0500 Galeria Logan..............................................612-145-0151 Galeria N. E. Hayles.....................................612-145-0183 Galeria On-ce Photography..........................612-145-0550 Galeria Wall.................................................612-145-0527 Contemporary Mexican art..........................612-145-0215 La Polilla................................................01-331-255-7965 Wendy Faith, artist in glass..........................612-145-0255 Shopping Cactus Arte Mexicano.................................612-145-0771 Casa Juanita...............................................612-140-0069 La Canada del Diablo Muebles Rusticos......612-140-0069 Curios Tony.................................................612-145-0356 El Perico Azul..............................................612-145-0538 Fenix de Todos Santos.................................612-145-0808 Galeria Santa Fe..........................................612-145-0301 Mangos......................................................612-145-0451 Manos Mexicanas.......................................612-145-0538 Regalos Diana-Dos Glorias..........................612-145-0324 Uguet Tiles and Marble................................612-127-2776 Hotel California Emporium...........................612-145-0525 Real Estate King Y Asociados........................................624-151-5840 Amerimex...................................................612-145-0050 Maya Roca.................................................612-145-0464 Milagro Real Estate.....................................612-145-0219 Moniely Real Estate.....................................612-145-0540 Pescadero Properties..................................612-145-0756 Ricardo Amigo Real Estate .........................612-145-0551
{{puerto peñasco, sonora}}
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
www.mexicolivingguide.com/puertopenasco
Church/Iglesia Family of God Christian Fellowship Non-Denominational ..........................................................044-638- 107-7150 Church Worship Services, Sundays at 9 a.m. Placita Melanie, Suite #211 Bblvd. Fremont FIrE DEPArTMENT/DEPArTAMENTO DE bOMbErOs Fire Department ..................................638-383-2828/068 INsUrANcE sErVIcEs/sErVIcIOs DE sEgUrOs Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)..........686-577-1622 MAssAgE/MAsAJE Rita Pizarro.................................................638-386-5203 rEAL EsTATE/bIENEs rAÍcEs Baja Lending Co..........................................760-494-7053 Century 21 Puerto Peñasco.........................638-388-1295 USA Office # 480-626-4687 rEcrEATION/rEcrEAcIÓN Kayak Rocky Point......................................638-103-2038 Ramas del Mar Ocean tours – At the Marina.... 638-107-3739
UTILITIEs/EMPrEsAs DE sErVIcIOs PúbLIcOs
PUERTO PENASCO Puerto Peñasco, also known as Rocky Point, is a small city of approximately 42,000 people in the northern state of Sonora. Located on the shore of the Sea of Cortez, the town is known for its fishing and tourism industries. It is a popular destination for tourists, particularly those from Arizona. There are a wide variety of activities available for everyone, from the lazy days relaxing in the sun, to the action filled wild ride. Activities include shopping, scuba diving, sport fishing, sunset cruises, off-road adventures, horseback
riding, kayaking, parasailing, watercraft rentals and much more. Puerto Peñasco is located in the “free zone” where tourists are not required currently to obtain immigration papers in order to visit. Puerto Peñasco has two main beach areas. To the west of the Old Port area, there is a wide, flat area known as Sandy Beach. This is the home to several large hotel/resorts. To the east there is a long coast with several areas, known in parts as El Mirador, Playa del Oro and then Las Conchas, an area of beachfront near condos, homes and time-shares.
Power Company..................................638-383-2492/071
Get the Guide At: La Cocina de Ramon Mariscos el Conchal Jerry’s Restaurant-Bar Pollo Lucas Betos Place Home Plate Seafood Aladinos Reggies 8-12 on Sinaloa St Reggies 8-12 on 13th St Capones Pizza Disenos Furniture Hotel Playa Inn Changos bar Debbies Restaurant Thirsty Parrot Charros JJ’s Cantina Tienda La Cholla Playa Inn - in the Mirador Sonora Market Viva Mexico Taco Stand Cosmos 2000 Pharmacies Licores el Crucero Restaurant Habana Vieja Boo Bar
Propane......................................................638-383-2630 Telephone Office.........................................638-383-2288 Water Co.....................................................638-383-2060 Window coverings Seaside Window Covering
♦ Wings♦ Wings ♦ Full ♦ BarFull Bar Daily Specials ♦ Pizzas♦ Pizzas ♦ Daily♦Specials Sport Specials ♦ Salads♦ Salads ♦ Sport♦Specials ♦ Appetizers ♦ All PPV Events ♦ Appetizers ♦ All PPV Events ♦ Sandwiches ♦ 7Days a week ♦ Sandwiches ♦ 7Days a week Bikers: Buy any pizza and get a dozen free wings Bikers: Buy any pizza and get a dozen free wings
Phone: 638-383-3712
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
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{calendar}} Send your calendar event to calendar@mexicoliving.info
The Art of Cooperation in San Felipe by Robin Waters
IMPORTANT DATES Dec. 12: Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe Day in Mexico) Dec. 16–24: Christmas Posadas. Candlelit processions from house to house for the nine days prior to Christmas. Dec. 21: First Day of Winter Dec. 25: Navidad/Christmas Day Dec. 28: The Holy Innocents/April Fools Day (National Holiday in Mexico) Dec. 31: New Year’s Eve
There is a new art group in San Felipe that was formed in the late summer; calling themselves ART EXPO, An Artists Co-op. They plan on having a monthly art show, October through March, high-
Jan. 1: New Year’s Day Jan. 17: Feast Day of San Antonio de Abad (Mexico). A Mexican religious holiday during which the Catholic Church allows animals to enter the church for blessing. Jan. 18: Martin Luther King Day (U.S.)
lighting the group’s diversity of media, plus Guest Artists. Their inaugural October show featured Ron Saunders’ photography, Andrena Joyce’s whimsical “Day of the Dead” pieces, Robin Waters’ digital art and portraiture, Wendy O’Neill’s beautiful mosaic and glass creations, Jim Mann’s watercolors of local flora and fauna, Paul Preppernaus’s DeCoursey wood sculptures and
Mac Davis’ turned wood bowls and keepsake boxes. The guest artist was Laurie Braal who showcased her unique decorative crosses. In November they had a group display at the Mexico Living Home Show, and are planning a December exhibit at the Baja Mar Restaurant banquet room (date to be determined), on the Malecon in San Felipe. Look for their monthly show posters, to enjoy the arts and be part of the growing art community of San Felipe Baja. For more information call Robin Waters at (686) 115-0526 or email DigitalDesignsbyRobin@ gmail.com.
Desert Mothers Presents “Classical Art Meets Classical Music” by Donna Roberts
LOCAL WEEKLY EVENTS
See the Community Calendar on www.mexicolivingguide.com for a weekly schedule of events for each city. New Year Eve Parties - December 31 make your reservations at local venues. Celebrate 2010 in the company of your family and friends!
PLAYAS DE ROSARITO Dec 5: Cruz Roja Thrift Shop Christmas Sale From 10am-2pm. More Info 661-612-5365 Dec 5: Friends Of The Library Present Their Holiday Home Tour. 11 a.m.– 4 p.m. More Info 661-613-1285 Dec 5: La Casa Vieja - Christmas Festival Of The Arts 11am-8pm More Info 646155-3153 Dec. 5–6: Fall Motocross Series Round 4. A specially designed race track with jumps and obstacles in a circuit of approximately two miles. U.S. (619) 819-6323 Dec 12: USBC Holiday Ball. Dinner & Live Music. Featuring; 5:30 To 12:00 At Rosarito Beach Hotel, More Info 619-213-2575. Dec. 18 - 20: The Rosarito Theater Guild Holiday Show, It’s A Wonderful Life – The Radio Show. Fri & Sat 7 p.m. & Sun at 2 p.m. More Info (664) 631-3009. Dec. 17: Portofino Restaurant Pairing Dinner. $38, 7 p.m. at the Hotel Festival Plaza. Reservations required. U.S. (800) 453-8606 34
When you’re purchasing all your special Christmas presents this year, be sure to include tickets to this event and enjoy a highly anticipated benefit to help the women of San Felipe! They will be putting on the Ritz, so dress up and join the festivities. Browse the works of over 30 of Baja’s most outstanding artists. Listen to the fabulous “Opera
de Mexico,” a Tango Group from Rosarito, which includes learning basic dance steps after the show. This event will also feature a classical piano and violin performance, wine tasting, great food, as well as drawings, raffles, door prizes, silent auction and a free door prize for Food Bank donations.
When: December 4, noon until it ends Where: El Dorado Ranch Pavilion Tickets: $30 or $35 at the door Information: 576-0089, (686) 169-5267 or (760) 554-4994.
Free Health Fair at Velmar Hospital on December 3 by Connie Ellig, Editor of Ensenada Gazette
Serena Full Assistance and Ensenada’s Velmar Hospital invite you to a free Health Fair on Thursday, December 3, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Get to know the doctors and staff of Velmar; have your blood sugar and blood pressure checked; and listen to brief English-language talks on topics like “Heart Attacks, Symptoms: How Men and Women Differ”
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
and “Alzheimer’s and Other Forms of Dementia.” Enjoy a short presentation “How Serena Helps in Medical Emergencies” with a Q & A period and also a short tour of Velmar facilities. Refreshments will be served. The Health Fair takes place in the conference room of Velmar Hospital, located one block east
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
of Blvd. Costero (Lázaro Cárdenas) on Arenas #151, Fracc. Playa Ensenada, Ensenada. Seating is limited. For reservations or more information, call Serena Full Assistance at Mexico toll-free 01-800030-0070 or Rosarito telephone (661) 612-9090.
{{calendar}
Mexico Living Home Show at La Ventana del Mar is a success, despite the competition by Randy Kerr, Blueroadrunner.com
ENSENADA Dec. 11–13: Race Ready 250 EnsenadaSan Felipe. Off-Road Race, Ramón Castro Rangel, (646) 176-1637 Dec. 16: 12th Annual Mexican Posada At Ensenada’s Centro Artesanal, (646) 171-6127 Dec. 26–Mar. 2010: Guided Whale Watching Tours
SAN FELIPE
The Mexico Living Home Show for 2009 was situated at an especially scenic location this year --the Pavilion at El Dorado Ranch’s Las Caras de Mexico golf course. The guest speakers, who talked about the logistics of retiring to Mexico, buying property, building a home, starting a business, importing your possessions, remodeling, investing, leasing land, healthcare and other subjects crucial to beginning a new life south of the border, seemed to be well appreciated. Exhibitors ranged from interior finishing options, cabinetry, ornamental iron works, solar battery solutions, a wireless water pump control, custom window shades, art works, pottery and ceramic creations, earth-friendly solar ovens, wireless security systems, even a selection of chocolates for your home’s sweet tooth. Construction companies and real estate developments were also well represented. Ed Meders was there selling the NEW Baja Almanac (yes, it’s finally out), along with Graham MacKintosh and Greg Niemann, both with copies of the numerous Baja books. Food and beverage venues were on hand for the mid-day and late afternoon hunger pangs. The turnout wasn’t overwhelming but there was a steady trickle of more than 500 people showing interest in the various kiosks and tents. By late afternoon fatigue got the better of some of the exhibitors and they called it a day. The local ultra-light pilot made the Home Show part of his tour and flew overhead several times with his passengers. On the whole, the show appeared to be a success. It fell on a day when there were several other events happening, including Baja Java’s Wine Tasting and Opera, and the Turkey Trot Poker Walk. Later in the early evening, there was a Rodeo at the baseball diamond in town. Possibly the Home Show would have had a larger audience if the locals didn’t have to choose between so many events. More information on the Mexico Living Home Show is available at www.mexicolivinghomeshow.com. The Blue Roadrunner photos of the Home Show are available at http://blueroadrunner.com/homeshow09.htm.
Dec. 4–6: “Race Ready 275” MexicaliSan Felipe Code Dec. 5th: Art Expo December Show. BajaMar Restaurant (upstairs banquet room), on the Malecon. Noon to 5 p.m. Find that Xmas gift for some one special. For information call 686-577-0773 Dec 6-8: Desert Mothers Playshop 5. By Alfonso Arambula. Play starts around 9 a.m. more infr (760) 554-4994 Dec. 11–13: Ensenada Record to San Felipe Race Ready Dec. 12: Pai Pai Art Show featuring Pai Pai artisan Daria Mariscal, starting at 10 a.m. in Baja Nueva in La Plazita. More info (686) 211-4676 or azgmaster@ aol.com TBA: Parade of Lights/Desfile de Luces Jan. 17: Cowboy Ho-Down at the Casa de Fe Orphanage construction site. 4–7 p.m. Contact Jeri (686) 120-2369 Jan. 25: Disco Decadence Presented by ZAPP. Miss Tootie and the Divas from San Diego’s LIPS. Contact Steven Forman, bajaanimalrescue@yahoo.com
LORETO Dec. 5: San Fransisco Javier Fair and Festival
LA PAZ Dec.–Mar. 2010: Whale Watching Season. Different tours are available at La Paz Bay.
LOS CABO Dec. 4–9: People versus Pros at Los Cabos. A tournament features amateur golfers. www.peoplevsthepros.com Dec. TBA: Festival of Rhythm, Color & Flavor. Showcasing Cabo San Lucas’ innovative cuisine. Every Thursday Night: San José del Cabo Art Walk along Obregon Street behind the church, sipping wine and viewing fine art. 5–9 p.m. Jan. 10–15: Puerto Los Cabos World ProAm. www.golftournamenttours.com
TODOS SANTOS Jan. 30–Feb. 6, 2010: Annual ART FESTIVAL
Send your calendar event to calendar@mexicoliving.info CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
www.mexicolivingguide.com
35
Centavo’s Two Cents
Another C hristmas in Baja . . . “Can You Hand Me the Suntan Lotion?” by Penny Nask
As Wyoming welcomes its first snowstorm of of an hour bending the branches around by myself. the season, I am sequestered in my living room After a crushing year in surrounded cardboard this wondering what I did with my flip flops. They have will take time. We discuss how real and beautiful become invaluable to me, even if I have to hunt it looks when I finish. We put on the Christmas them down every day. A quick slip on my feet and I music, I fret about plugging the tree in to see if all can water the yard, do my laundry, take a trip to my the lights will work and, of course, I say, “Aren’t mailbox, store, bar stool or swimming pool. I can you glad that we got one with the lights already wander down the beach, sail my kites and live my attached?” I will say this every year forward. She dream. Flip flops are the greatest invention ever! agrees penitently, because nothing will ease the Now that autumn is here there is a chill in the air, torture of the task ahead and she knows this. But a welcomed occurrence after a long hot summer. she agrees. The lights were the actual dilemma. It is time for me to get out the jackets, sweaters, The ornaments? . . . a piece of cake. socks, sweat pants, warm hats and boots that I There really is something wonderful about the also love. They will find an easy comfort on my memories of a given ornament. They are treasures body after a preposterous sojourn in my closet all of a fortunate life; always a story or event behind summer. each one. My neighbors will be arriving back here, I will light my fireplace, welcome family, expecting my Christmas tree to be up and running neighbors and friends to spend a Christmas like a store window display. Hundreds of collected moment at my house. It will be much like last ornaments tell the tale of my life, our vacations, year . . . a Holiday in Baja where I can see the our interests, our professions and my childhood. ocean. If we are lucky, there will be snow on the Every year I am reminded of how lucky we have mountain. Stop by. I’ll be wearing mistletoe and flip been to have family, good friends and celebrated flops. memories. Happiest of Holidays to all! So . . . on go my flip flops to wander into that no-man’s land called a “garage” to locate the box that miraculously contains the Centavo aka Pamela Esther nine-foot tree that I had to buy . . . What? Nask (“Penny”) Well, it already had lights strung on it, and it fulfilled my dream. My partner chuckles. Co-owner of Simpatico Arts, She does not value my traditions and she is a writer and an art would prefer that the decorations stay in historian, whose luck in these their ancient boxes. Christmas, she says, fields has given her an early has been over for her for years. retirement. She attributes “laughter” as the best But I know I can count on her to possible stimulus for life. pennynask@yahoo.com decorate the tree if I spend the good part 36
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Ode to No Lutfisk for Christmas by La Huerita
When I was a kid my little Swedish granny lived with us. That was great, until the Holidays rolled around and we were subjected to the annual ritual of consuming a vile Scandinavian food called Lutfisk. It was a special thing for granny, but for us? Not so much. For those lucky enough not to know, lutfisk is cod (or other whitefish) that has been preserved in a lye concoction until it is caustic. To make it edible, it must be soaked in fresh water for five or six days, changing the water daily; at the end of the soaking period it is translucent with an unappealing gelatinous texture. Mom would then parboil it briefly, taking care that the pieces didn’t fall apart, and serve it up with peas and new potatoes in a white sauce that included some of the pungent water in which the fish had been cooked. Oh yum. It was nasty stuff, and it smelled foul, too. The kitchen smelled like rotten cod for days right around Christmas time. Even the dog made herself absent from her customary spot under the kitchen table on lutfisk day. It’s so potent that if you don’t clean all of its residue from plates, pans and utensils immediately, you’ll NEVER get it off. And it will permanently ruin sterling silver. Mom claimed to love it, but we all took quiet notice that after Granny passed away lutfisk never darkened our dinner table again. With that memory haunting me, it is with great pleasure that I embrace the holiday culinary traditions of Mexico, not one of which smells or tastes bad! Christmas is wonderful in Mexico, and the celebrations last a full three weeks, ending with Three Kings Day on January 6, so you can really get into the swing of things. And accompanying every celebration is an abundance of succulent
foods that makes me drool like Pavlov’s dogs just thinking about it. Instead of a traditional north-of-the-border Christmas dinner this year, why not give some of Mexico’s traditions a try, whether you’re here or stuck in “the old country”? Here are some ideas for you (you can find the recipes on the Internet): TO DRINK: Chimayo Cocktails (an authentic but not wellknown apple cider with tequila) Atole Champurrado (made of chocolate, cinnamon and corn flour) Ponche Navideño TO EAT: Chiles en Nogada Tamales: Chicken, pork, beef, vegetarian, choose your fillings Romeritos with Mole (potatoes, shrimp and peppers in mole sauce) Posole (delicious soup perfect for those suffering from hangovers) DESSERTS: Mexican Christmas Cookies Rosca de Reyes (a wreath-shaped sweet bread) Buñuelos de Navidad (Christmas sweet fritters) You can’t go wrong with any of those delicious dishes. Make a party out of it by inviting your friends over for Christmas Eve, and have each one bring a Mexican dish. It’s lots of fun, lots of good eating, lots of laughter. And the very best part? NO LUTFISK!
Chile en Nogada.
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.
{People & voices}}
{{People & Voices} JOURNAL DATA
If You Love Shrimp, Like I Love Shrimp . . . by John Pack
I love shrimp. I think the best tasting shrimp in the world comes from the northern Sea of Cortez. I’ve had shrimp from other parts of the world. I ate more than my share when Rachel and I lived along the gulf in Louisiana and Mississippi. Bubba said it best, “Anyway, like I was sayin’, shrimp is the fruit of the sea. You can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it. Dey’s uh, shrimpkabobs, shrimp creole, shrimp gumbo. Pan fried, deep fried, stir fried. There’s pineapple shrimp, lemon shrimp, coconut shrimp, pepper shrimp, shrimp soup, shrimp stew, shrimp salad, shrimp and potatoes, shrimp burger, shrimp sandwich. That . . . that’s about it.” Bubba forgot about the San Felipe baconwrapped blue shrimp, the single most common recipe of the annual San Felipe Shrimp Festival, now on it’s 17th year. The smell of bacon is carried on the sea breezes as you walk the Malecon past the many vendors of this shrimp delicacy, so prevalent you’d think they were caught that way. If you love shrimp, like I love shrimp, you’d travel 800 miles for a couple days of these tasty blues, and many do. The event has become an annual Baja pilgrimage for many, including Rachel and myself. Shrimp season is a great time of the year on the northern sea: great weather; returning friends; and wonderful, wonderful shrimp. Every time I think of shrimp, I think of a trip Rachel and I, and our friends, Gene and Darcy Jensen took. We spent a week at Alfonsina’s on Bahía San Luis Gonzaga, or Gonzaga Bay as it’s commonly referred. A wonderful little hotel and restaurant on the shores of the bay and longtime stopover for off-road racers and adventurers. On the beach Rachel and I found an old, molded kayak, it was tandem with an open deck, sort of resembled a canoe, something you might use on the lake. It belonged to the hotel and they said we could use it, so we decided to explore the barren rocky cliffs and the cactus that cling to them. We had paddled nearly to the bay opening, examining the rough terrain and the sea life that moved in and around the rocks below us in the crystal blue waters, when we noticed three shrimp boats making their way into the bay. By the time we paddled our way into the center of the bay to investigate the boats; they had already anchored and gone ashore. When we got to the shore, Gene had mentioned the fishermen were making their rounds selling shrimp—hallelujah! I immediately scanned the beach up and down like a junkie looking for his dealer; I almost felt ashamed, but that quickly passed when I noticed the soldiers and their machine guns just a couple yards away. Apparently, while my mind wondered about shrimp a federal boat had landed with about a dozen armed soldiers, they too were looking for the fishermen. The fishermen returned shortly thereafter, they were empty handed. The soldiers on the beach
GULF OF CALIFORNIA SHRIMP The shrimp fishery is one of the most important fisheries in the Gulf of California. Blue shrimp Litopenaeus stylirostris (Stimpson, 1874) is the target species in the catch, in bays and coastal lagoons and represents about 30 percent of offshore fishing along the coast of Baja and Sonora.
Strengths: Fishing authorities recognize the need for changes in the management of the fishery in order to optimize the economic benefits, reduce the environmental impacts and mitigate the social conflicts. Shrimp stocks have high growth capacity and high resilience to intense exploitation.
were there only to watch the boat, and while they and I waited, their comrades had found the fishermen and purchased the last of their load. I was disappointed as I watched them walk by with empty boxes. I asked one of them, “¿Tiene más de camarón?”—Do you have anymore shrimp?—and he replied in English, “No, but we will trade for some chocolate.” They then continued to the shore and their waiting dingy. “Did you hear that?” I asked Gene, more as a statement, than a question. “Let’s go get some chocolate!” We both leapt to our feet and headed to Gene’s truck and the area’s only store, where we stocked up on Hershey bars and anything else we could find dipped in chocolate. Of course, it hadn’t dawned on us how we were going to make the trade. Were they going to wait for our signal and bring their dingy ashore, or did we have to go to the boat? When we got back with candy in hand, one of the boats was already leaving the bay and there was no way we would be able to signal them from their distance; swimming was out of the question; we had no way to keep the chocolate dry (as if that was really an option); we were left with only the molded plastic kayak. This kayak was not meant for the sea, and although this was the bay, the swells were building and white caps could be seen near the bay mouth. The kayak was still sitting on the sand where Rachel and I had left it. “Come on Gene, let’s take the kayak!” Gene looked at Darcy, as if waiting for her to give him an excuse why he shouldn’t go, but none come. Gene climbed in up front and I pushed him out into the water and climbed in back. “How much do you weigh?” Gene asked me over his shoulder. I knew he was looking at the weight capacity label attached on the molded plastic in front of him. “Don’t worry about that,” I replied, “we were over the limit before you got in.” As we slowly paddled our way to the nearest fishing boat, the swells were rolling into the boat. Our combined weight had the deck of the kayak about even with the waterline, so every swell would put a little more water into the kayak. When we got
to the boat, I was surprised to see it was in worse condition than it appeared from shore—surprised because from shore it looked like it had seen better days—but along side it, I wondered how it floated. The hull was nearly all rust; in places I could see where the rust had eaten all the way through. Fortunately for them it was above the waterline. I grabbed a rope hanging over the side and hung on as the swells rose us up and dropped us down. The same fisherman we spoke to on the beach leaned over the railing and grabbed the candy. The whole time I’m trying to keep from rubbing against the boat in fear of getting scratched or cut by one of the many sharp, rusty edges. The candy cost us about $10, but we had no idea how much that would get us in shrimp. “Hell, he could bring back two,” I thought to myself. “What would I be able to do about it?” Moments later the fisherman was back, and when he reached over the rail this time, he had close to three kilos of beautiful, frozen Gulf of California blue shrimp. We said thank you and slowly and carefully turned our nose back towards shore. By the time we made it back to shore, the kayak was half filled with water and both Gene and I were exhausted from protecting our bounty, while fighting the growing swells. But, if you love shrimp, like we love shrimp, it’s all worth it. We made it to shore and that night we had a shrimp festival of our own on the shore of Bahía San Luis Gonzaga.
John & Rachel Pack After marrying John & Rachel traveled the United States full time producing live events, until moving to San Felipe Baja to slow down. That only lasted a couple of months. Since then they’ve dedicated themselves to sharing life in Mexico with the world. They have fallen in love with so many of you that they want you to join them as they explore the wonders of Mexico living.
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Weaknesses: The fishery is overcapitalized. Expansion of fishing capacity beyond the growth rates of the shrimp species favors over exploitation. At present most of the shrimp stocks are believed to be fished too hard to obtain stock levels. It is a sequential fishery (juveniles are captured in coastal lagoons and shallow waters; and adults are captured offshore) with participation of two sectors with different levels of organization, different needs and problems. Currently it is not possible to control overcapacity and overexploitation, at least in part due to competition among the participating sectors. There is a continuous illegal and furtive fishing effort. Enforcement resources are insufficient. There is a lack of fishing effort control, particularly for small-scale vessels. By catch rates and amounts are large; and physical damages to the sea bed may be occurring. Options: Reduce the industrial fishing effort by 40 percent to 50 percent. Incentivize the use of fishing gear improvements to reduce environmental damages. Restrict areas that are sensitive to bottom trawling. BAHIA SAN LUIS GONZAGA (Gonzaga Bay) Bahía San Luis Gonzaga is two separate bays. They provide excellent places to drop anchor, and have two air strips. By road it is a slow, rocky, unpaved along the coast 100 miles south of San Felipe; the last 45 miles between Puertecitos and Gonzaga are known to be some of the toughest roads in Baja. The drive from San Felipe to Gonzaga Bay generally takes about five hours. ALFONSINA’S RESORT Located at Gonzaga Bay, Sea of Cortez, in Baja California, Mexico, Alfonsina’s Resort offers you single, double and triple bedrooms, with bathroom and hot showers in the room. Alfonsina’s Resort is a great place to enjoy nature, go fishing, snorkeling, kayaking, or just kick back and relax. You can drive there, or simply land your plane and start enjoying the adventure; great food, drinks and friendly people. Resources: FishSource™ with status and environmental performance of fisheries worldwide, Wikipedia, BajaExpo.com and Alfonsina’s Resort.
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
www.mexicolivingguide.com
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Kona Blue Water Farms announced that it has
The company is planning to deploy the first net
secured funding and is proceeding with developing
pens later this year at the new site in the Bay of
a second mariculture farm in Mexico’s Sea of
La Paz, five miles off the coast of the Baja Cali-
Cortez to expand the company’s production of
fornia peninsula. The pens will be stocked with
Kona Kampachi®, a premium tropical yellowtail.
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1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
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2153 213 107 69
23
833 182
1556 -21
2229 246 106 70
24
905 175
1628 -14
2304 321 104 72
25
936 165
1700 -6
2341 105
26
PMS
9 37
75
NMM
0
BMI
359 75
150
1008 152
1732 4
021 448 106 78
27
1043 137
1805 15
105 110
28
551 81
1124 120
1841 25
151 116
29
724 1224 79 102
1921 36
30
239 124
921 1403 69 87
2008 46
325 134
1046 1606 2101 50 81 55
408 147
1141 29
1738 2156 84 61
31
PMS 11 13
75
NMM
0
BMI
450 160
1225 7
1842 2250 90 65
532 175
1305 -13
1931 2340 96 65
150
615 189
145 82
75 0
0
1344 -30
2012 029 103 63
659 201
1424 -43
2053 119 108 58
Hora del Meridiano:
120 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
745 209
1505 -50
2133 114
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
24 1, 31 8 16
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
6
Dom 18
0
6
Lun
18
0
6
1
200
Oceanografía Física
Mar
18
0
6
2
Mie
18
0
Jue
6
3
18
0
6
(28 57 N, 113 33 W) Vie
4
18
0
6
5
Sab
18
PMS
23 31
100
NMM
0
BMI
013 236
200
6
7
620 47
1128 164
1753 -66
054 248
8
704 1208 45 163
1834 -72
9
137 251
751 1251 47 159
1919 -68
224 245
10
840 1337 50 151
2006 -53
11
312 232
934 1431 52 140
2058 -31
12
PMS
16 14
100
NMM
0
BMI
405 216
200
1035 1537 51 128
2157 -3
13
501 198
1143 1704 44 120
2308 26
14
601 181
1252 33
1856 125
037 50
15
707 166
1356 18
2040 144
16
214 63
814 155
1453 2
2154 169
17
341 65
914 147
1543 -12
2249 192
18
451 62
1004 142
1628 -23
2335 208
19
PMS
403
100
NMM
0
BMI
544 1046 59 138
200
1708 -30
014 218
20
627 1121 57 137
1743 -35
047 221
21
701 1151 57 138
1815 -37
117 221
22
730 1219 57 139
1845 -38
23
145 219
757 1247 56 140
1914 -35
24
212 215
826 1318 56 139
25
1943 -29
241 208
857 1352 55 135
2015 -16
26
PMS
9 37
100
Fiery Start to Bisbee’s Black & Blue by Dave Lear
NMM
0
BMI
311 198
200
933 1429 56 127
27
2047 1
343 184
1013 1511 57 117
28
2121 23
415 168
1101 1603 57 107
29
2159 46
448 153
1156 1724 2254 54 100 69
30
525 139
1253 46
1939 030 106 87
618 129
1347 32
2117 224 128 91
729 124
1437 12
31
2206 155 PMS
11 13
100
NMM
0
BMI
348 85
840 126
1525 -12
2247 184
447 72
937 132
1612 -38
2327 212
536 1028 59 141
200
204
100
102
0
Photos by Dave Lear
cms
0
Bahía de los Angeles, B.C.
CICESE
DICIEMBRE 2009
0
1659 -62
009 235
621 1119 45 149
1747 -79
Hora del Meridiano:
120 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
051 250
704 1207 34 157
1833 -88
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
24 1, 31 8 16
The yacht The Bottom Line is resting on the
boats, already miles away, caught fire and sank.
bottom of the Sea of Cortez. Minutes after the
All seven crew members aboard were rescued
shotgun flare starting the 29th Annual Bisbee’s
by Sneak Attack, another tournament contestant.
Black & Blue Marlin Tournament doused in the
Mexican rescue boats and tournament officials
ocean, one of the participating sportfishing
were also quickly on the scene.
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
38
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
0
6
Dom 18
0
Lun
6
18
0
struction. This expansion to a site within easy
stated that the company will hold to the same
trucking distance of the U.S. mainland is a key
rigorous standards of sustainability of feeds,
80
element in the company’s plans to increase pro-
operating procedures and product quality at the
0
duction volumes, reduce delivery costs for the
new location in La Paz. site, there will be a short-term gap of market
requirements.
availability of Kona Kampachi over the next six
80
months, beginning the end of November 2009.
0
0
6
3
Jue
7
1505 -32
2313 057 6160
8
723 107
The new pens will take advantage of the latest
submersible net pens in waters over 200 feet
Norwegian surface cage technology, and will also
deep, with strong currents over a sand bottom, a
utilize ultra-sturdy, innovative Kikkonet material.
half-mile offshore from the Kona coast. The site
This new net pen configuration will remain on the
was carefully selected to minimize potential for
company’s current site, and is expected to result
environmental impacts, and to avoid conflicts with
in considerable operational improvements and an
existing uses or cultural concerns. The company undertook three years of extensive community
“We’re very pleased that our expansion
consultations and outreach before the lease was
plans are progressing,” said Neil Anthony
granted in 2004. The farm has been in operation
Sims, President and CEO of Kona Blue. “These
since 2005, and produced around 500 tons of
improvements in Kona and expansion into Baja
Kona Kampachi in 2008.
0
6
4
Vie
18
0
6
5
Sab
18
PMS
1544 -34
753 108
9
1627 -32
825 105
10
1711 -25
858 97
11
1800 -14
12
PMS
17 14
NMM BMI
1847 -3
953 71
13
1931 10
14
428 64
2015 22
15
437 68
142418002053 32 37 34
16
453 73
1321 19
2001 2136 45 44
17
513 79
1316 4
2108 2226 52 52
18
534 86
1338 -8
2201 2319 58 57
19
PMS
503
40
NMM
0
BMI
600 91
1406 -16
2238 2355 61 60
20
629 96
1436 -22
2315 022 6161
21
659 99
1506 -24
729 101
22
1536 -24
758 100
23
1606 -21
825 98
24
1635 -16
851 93
25
1702 -10
26
PMS
10 37
40
NMM BMI
915 85
1728 -2
27
80
933 76
1749 6
947 65
28
1804 14
655 54
29
1758 22
256 57
30
1556 26
317 63
1400 19
351 70
1321 5
31
PMS 12 13
NMM
0
BMI
430 78
1329 -10
512 86
1355 -25
2232 2319 5858
556 94
1427 -36
88
80
44
40 0
0
2241 019 6059
642 101
1502 -43
2310 103 6058
Hora del Meridiano:
105 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
726 104
1539 -44
2341 59
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
24 2, 31 8 16
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
0
6
Dom 18
0
Lun
6
La Paz, B.C.S.
CICESE
DICIEMBRE 2009 cms
Kona Blue currently operates an array of
18
NMM
40
Sea Stations™ with more robust surface pens.
increase in the farm’s sustainability quotient.
6 928 86
print of the company by minimizing the airfreight
the market in May 2010.
18
BMI
654 103
40
Because of the reconfiguration of the Hawaii
The popular sashimi-grade fish will be back on
Mie
6
2 0 31
038 56
fresh product and reduce the overall carbon foot-
offshore pens, which will replace the submersible
0
(26 01 N, 111 22 W)
0
80
is also currently undergoing a reconfiguration of
18
40
production of the ocean’s finest fish.’” Sims
Kona Blue’s mariculture operation in Hawaii
Oceanografía Física
Mar
6
1
80
A land-based hatchery is also planned for con-
Loreto, B.C.S.
CICESE
DICIEMBRE 2009 cms
Mariculture into the Sea of Cortez
{{fishing}
18
0
Mar
6
1
100
Oceanografía Física 18
0
Mie
6
2
18
0
6
3
Jue
18
0
6
4
(24 10 N, 110 21 W) Vie
18
0
6
5
Sab
18
PMS
0 31
50
NMM
0
BMI
125 51
100
6
7
724 137
1519 -23
2200 156 74 53
8
757 141
1600 -26
2245 227 71 54
9
833 141
1641 -24
2333 300 68 55
10
911 135
1724 -19
022 345 67 57
11
951 124
1807 -11
12
PMS
17 14
50
NMM
0
BMI
115 442 68 60
California are significant steps in furthering our
100
mission of ‘expanding the environmentally sound
0
1034 109
1852 -0
13
214 608 72 62
1123 90
1938 12
14
312 78
810 1231 59 70
2029 25
15
400 85
1052 1610 2124 45 55 37
16
441 93
1213 26
18342224 58 47
17
517 101
1305 9
19512321 63 53
18
551 108
1346 -4
2040 68
19
PMS
503
50
NMM BMI
009 56
100
622 113
1424 -13
2114 049 70 56
20
653 118
1457 -17
2142 122 70 53
21
722 120
1527 -19
2208 153 69 51
22
752 121
1555 -19
2234 221 67 49
23
820 120
1621 -17
2300 249 65 48
24
848 117
1645 -13
2326 316 63 48
25
914 111
1707 -8
2351 63
26
PMS
10 37
50
NMM
0
BMI
343 49
100
“It was miraculous no tournament
director
Wayne Bisbee, as he and
1728 -1
27
016 418 63 51
1005 92
1748 6
28
045 511 65 53
1029 79
1808 14
125 69
29
634 1053 54 66
1830 24
30
219 74
Team Baja Cantina. “It was
A
total
1322 -0
2031 2325 61 55
539 112
1400 -16
2104022 66 55
624 123
1440 -28
107
100
54
50 0
0
2136 108 69 53
709 131
1519 -36
2208 153 70 49
Hora del Meridiano:
105 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
boats
competed in the world’s richest sportfishing event. Anglers
vyed
for
nearly
cms
0
6
Dom 18
0
6
Lun
18
0
6
1
120
coming off a 2nd Place win in the Bisbee’s Los Cabos Offshore Tournament.
NMM
1557 -38
2238 71
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
24 2, 31 8 16
Cabo San Lucas, B.C.S.
Mar
18
0
Mie
6
2
18
0
6
3
Jue
18
0
6
4
(22 53 N, 109 55 W) Vie
18
0
6
5
Sab
18
PMS
0 31
NMM BMI
047 42
6
7
704 155
1413 -26
2034 120 95 43
8
739 160
1451 -30
2115 156 93 44
9
818 160
1531 -28
2200 236 90 46
10
859 154
1614 -21
2248 323 88 50
11
945 143
1702 -11
2344 87
12
PMS
17 14
NMM
0
BMI
420 55
120
1035 127
1754 2
13
052 89
535 60
1134 108
1851 15
14
201 94
729 60
1257 90
1955 28
15
303 103
933 49
1501 78
2101 38
16
356 112
1057 33
1653 2205 78 45
17
443 121
1154 17
1807 2259 81 50
18
525 130
1238 4
1901 2346 86 51
19
PMS
503
60
NMM
0
BMI
605 137
0
convertible
1956 2208 53 51
0
The Bottom Line, a 50Hatteras
754 136
Oceanografía Física
60
120
homeported in Cabo was
1247 17
PMS
CICESE
DICIEMBRE 2009
$2 million in prize money. foot
409 90
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
60
94
1838 1930 4343
BMI
120
of
1223 34
12 13
455 101
a tragic and a very humbling experience.”
318 81
0
the burning vessel slowly dip tournament committee boat,
1856 33
31
the rescued anglers watched below the surface aboard the
8551052 50 51
50
one was seriously injured,” said
940 102
1316 -7
1942 025 89 51
20
642 144
1350 -14
2016 100 92 49
21
717 147
1422 -18
2048 134 93 48
22
750 149
1453 -19
2118 205 93 48
23
821 147
2146 234 92 48
24
849 143
1551 -12
2215 303 91 49
25
917 135
1619 -5
2244 89
26
PMS
10 37
60
NMM BMI
333 51
120
1523 -17
944 126
27
1646 3
2315 406 88 54
1010 114
28
1713 13
2352 449 88 58
1039 100
29
1741 24
040 88
552 62
1115 84
1814 34
30
144 91
819 1232 61 67
1901 44
253 97
1052 1616 2019 47 61 52
353 106
1145 28
1756 2154 68 56
31
PMS 12 13
60
NMM
0
BMI
444 117
1223 9
1847 2300 75 56
528 129
1258 -9
1927 2350 82 53
610 142
120
122
60
61
0
0
1333 -24
2003 034 88 47
653 152
1409 -36
2037 118 92 41
Hora del Meridiano:
105 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
735 159
1445 -41
2112 95
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
24 2, 31 8 16
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
www.mexicolivingguide.com
39
{Things to do}}
Snorkeling Baja & Sonora by Andrea Morton, for Baja Bound
What better way could there be to escape from the pressures of daily life than to jump into azure waters and enter another world entirely? Snorkeling in Baja California and Sonora offers travelers the chance to shed their land-legs and resist the pull of gravity while experiencing the exotic colors of living coral reefs and 600 dazzling species of marine life for a fraction of the price of a standard scuba diving tour. Best of all, snorkeling requires no special training or expensive equipment. If you can swim and breathe through a tube, you’re all set to begin your first undersea adventure! Many of the outstanding scuba diving locations that Baja California and Sonora are famous for also make wonderful places to snorkel. From thriving kelp forests and cool water marine life in the protected Pacific-side waters south of Ensenada (from Punta Banda peninsula to La Bufadora) to exotic tropical creatures frolicking in the warm water of world famous Cabo Pulmo Marine Park (Sea of Cortez) there will always be something new and exciting for even the most experienced of snorkelers to enjoy. Beginners may choose to stay close to shore and explore rocky tidepools and craggy islands, while some advanced snorkelers can even try amateur freediving! A wide variety of snorkeling options in Baja California and Sonora will fit the needs of all underwater enthusiasts. Many excellent companies (listed below) offer snorkeling packages or tours, some of which also include sea-kayaking and/or scuba diving. Other travelers may prefer to chart their own course through the Baja waters, either alone or with their family and friends. Whether you choose to take the plunge on your own or as part of a guided tour, we highly recommend that you grab a snorkeling buddy and a good pair of swim fins and dive into one of the following underwater playgrounds on Pacific Baja and the Sea of Cortez! You won’t regret it. Recommended Snorkeling Spots: La Bufadora, Baja California: Not only does this small town south of Ensenada boast excellent boat diving in the Pacific Ocean, it also makes a fantastic spot for snorkeling in the right weather conditions. Snorkeling adventurers will be amazed by underwater kelp forests, vivid orange garibaldi, schools of sardines, sheepshead, starfish, sea urchins and excellent visibility to the ocean floor ranging from 25 to 50 feet below. Water temperature is similar to that of San Diego (mid-fifties to low-seventies) and weather is generally mild. Coastal camping is available. San Felipe, Baja California: Dolphin lovers will be thrilled by the opportunity to snorkel in and 40
around the waters of San Felipe, especially near the rocky islet of Rocas Consag where bottlenose dolphins feed and leap by the hundreds. However, conservationist adventurers may be equally impressed by sightings of two increasingly rare endangered species: the totoaba and vaquita. Vaquita, a species of porpoise first identified in 1958, are now found nowhere on Earth except in the waters off of San Felipe. In fact, scientists estimate that only about 400 of these beautiful creatures remain due to their tendency to become “by-catch” in mesh gill nets used by fishermen and shrimpers throughout the northern Gulf of California. Totoaba are 300-pound corvina fish that spawn in the upper gulf’s shallow, sedimentladen waters, and like the vaquita live only off the shore of San Felipe. Unfortunately, although formally protected by the Mexican government, they too get caught in nets before they have a chance to reproduce. With the population of each species dwindling rapidly, encountering a totuaba and vaquita may prove to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience! San Felipe snorkelers will also take pleasure in viewing yellowtail, cabrilla, white seabass, snapper, squid and countless other species endemic to the region. In summer months, snorkelers may be treated to unique views of other migratory surface species exploring the northerly limits of their ranges—including dorado, roosterfish, sailfish and even marlin. Puertecitos, Baja California: A small arid desert enclave on the bay, the best beaches in Puertecitos are those just to the north and south of town. Although there are two camping locations in Puertecitos, snorkeling enthusiasts may wish to enjoy Puertecitos as a day trip and camp in the slightly more organized and better equipped San Felipe or Gonzaga Bay locations
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
nearby. Novice snorkelers may enjoy poking around the rocks at the south and east ends of the harbor, especially during high tide. Experienced snorkelers sometimes hire local boat owners to take them out into the Sea of Cortez for a morning or afternoon, perhaps to Las Islas de las Encantadas located just south of Puertecitos. You can relax in local hot springs after a refreshing day in the sea. A word of caution: Bring your own snorkeling equipment with you! Due to its remote location and lack of major touring companies, it is better not to depend upon renting your gear in Puertecitos. Isla Angel de la Guardia, Baja California: Although most of the northern Gulf of California is quite shallow (with depths less than 100 feet), it may surprise you to learn that a 4,800-foot deep channel, Canal de Ballenas, divides the Baja California peninsula and Isla Angel de la Guardia. The warm, deep waters of this abyss boast an incredible abundance of marine life that feed off of local phytoplankton blooms otherwise known as “red tides” that occur thanks to upwelling from below. Snorkelers in this channel and off the shore of Isla Angel de la Guardia will love spending time around La Ventana (window rock) where they can interact with Finback whales, California sea lions, Sargassum, and many brightly colored fish and invertebrates. As the largest of the 11 Midriff Islands, Isla Angel de la Guardia is actually a volcanic mountain top rising from the northern Gulf waters, and can only be reached by boat. Santa Rosalia, Baja California Sur: Only 12 miles ashore from wonderful snorkeling in the coves of Isla San Marcos, the bustling town of Santa Rosalia provides a commercial center for inhabitants of all towns in the surrounding area. You will find wonderful bakeries, schools, banks, restaurants, markets, a library, the ferry to
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
Guaymas on the mainland and a fascinating 19th century metal church designed by Gustav Eiffel. The town itself was once prosperous, established in the late 1800s by a French mining company and originally inhabited originally by Europeans. Santa Rosalia makes a great place for snorkelers to stop for equipment and supplies before hiring a local panga boat to reach rocky Isla San Marcos. One exceptional underwater attraction to watch when snorkeling near the island is the Humboldt squid, named for the Humboldt current off of Peru. This startling creature can grow to be 7-feet long and 100 pounds! The Humboldt squid has begun to replace local game species such as hammerhead shark, tuna and marlin whose numbers are rapidly dwindling due to years of overfishing. Although the squid feed mainly at night, they make an impressive sight under any conditions and may try to touch you with their tentacles! Note: Avoid snorkeling at the beach right in front of Santa Rosalia, as there is very little sea life to view. Mulegé, Baja California Sur: Mulegé heralds your true entrance into the snorkelers’ paradise for which the Sea of Cortez is famous around the world. Among the stunning reefs you will find throughout the tranquil and warm waters between Mulegé and Loreto you are guaranteed to encounter wonderful species such as vividly colored angelfish and damselfish, starfish and sea urchins, green and brown moray eels, puffer fish, wrasse, dorado, sergeant majors, barracuda and sweet lips; as well as turtles, sea lions, manta rays, octopus, mobula, whales and even (infrequently) yellow bellied sea snakes! Both beginning and experienced snorkelers will delight in the highest levels of pelagic invertebrate diversity in the Gulf of California found from Bahia Concepción to La Paz.
{{Things to do} Loreto, Baja California Sur: Loreto National Marine Park is home to over 800 species of fish, as well as invertebrates, Humboldt squid, sea lions, dolphins, sea turtles, whales, hammerhead sharks and whale sharks. There are also wonderful colored sea fans and black coral. Sea temperature ranges from 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, and visibility ranges from 30 to 60 feet in colder months and 50 to 120 feet in the warmer season. Popular snorkeling locations include Puerto Don Juan, Isla Del Carmen, Isla Danzante and Nopolo Beach, all of which are nearby and easily accessible by boat. For those who would rather stick closer to town, you can enjoy fun snorkeling just off of the Malecón sea wall in the center of the city. La Paz, Baja California Sur: It is widely agreed that the most phenomenal underwater habitats of Baja California can be found in the lower Gulf of California, from La Paz to Cabo San Lucas. In this tropical marine environment, coral bottoms are common. Set against the Sierra de La Giganta, lucky snorkelers in the Sea of Cortez will definitely come across moray eels, sea lions, dolphins, manta rays, and a wide variety of tropical fish and other marine species. You may even enjoy sighting hammerheads and whale sharks; blue, gray and orca whales! The further offshore you go, the more likely you are to increase your odds of experiencing a high diversity of habitats and organisms. While the Bay of La Paz does not
offer much, your snorkeling experiences will continuously improve as you go out to the end points of Playas Tecolote and El Coyote, and offshore islands Cerralvo, Espiritu Santo and Los Islotes. Los Cabos, Baja California Sur: The Cabo San Lucas region offers wonderfully diverse marine life. Cabo Pulmo (only a two-hour drive from Cabo) has the only living coral reef on the Pacific side of North America. Fishing is not allowed in the Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park, ensuring that snorkelers will enjoy swimming through 10 miles of pristine waters while viewing the golden, green and rust colored coral outcroppings often described as looking like “huge heads of cauliflower.” Amid large forests of seaweed, you will see and interact with whole schools of tropical fish including puffers, angelfish, spiny blowfish, needlefish, eels, damselfish, parrotfish, fluorescent fish and game fish. In addition, there are many rays, turtles and pristine beach coves to explore. Water temperature in the area (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit) stays fairly constant yearround, and for those who would rather not take a tour or boat, much of this incredible reef is accessible directly from shore. Puerto Peñasco, Sonora: Puerto Peñasco (aka Rocky Point) is a small fishing port and resort town located 60 miles south of the U.S. border in Arizona. Long known for its abundant fishing, Puerto Peñasco is also gaining international
recognition as a center for marine research. While the large tidal change in the upper Gulf of California (as much as 30 feet) does limit the diversity of marine life found near Puerto Peñasco, there are many intriguing rocky tide pools to explore where you will likely come into contact with several of the 2,500 vertebrate and invertebrate species that populate the upper Gulf. Fortunate snorkelers in this area may also enjoy an increasingly rare opportunity to encounter two highly endangered species: the totoaba and vaquita (described in detail under “San Felipe”). Puerto Peñasco offers wonderful camping areas in addition to coves and islands. It is easy to reach, thanks to a very modern four-lane highway that stretches through the Piñacate Desert into Puerto Peñasco. With good accommodations and plenty of options
for dining out, Puerto Peñasco offers plenty of relaxation and culture to round out any snorkeling adventure! San Carlos, Sonora: The San Carlos area is uniquely beautiful and offers some wonderful snorkeling and a large variety of fish and other sea life, including conch, moray eels, crabs, croaker, octopus, sea urchins and sting rays. Martini Cove located at Catalina Island immediately southwest of the mouth of San Carlos Marina is a favorite of local snorkelers and dive shops as well as sail boaters and kayakers. Martini Cove is good for beginners and experts and the walls and boulders make for fabulous dives. The best time of the year is between June and September, and even when exposed locations become difficult in weather, Martini Cove will remain calm.
blues & arts
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FREE CLASSIFIED ADS FREE CLASSIFIED ads can now be submitted via email, classified@mexicoliving.info. All ads must be 60 words or less and contain phone number, city and price. PETS Rottweiler in San Felipe needs a new home. I have a nice Rottweiler that needs a new home. He is not a problem dog. He has a sweet and gentle disposition and loves people. My problem is that I have 5 other dogs. He figures that all of the dog food is his, which does not set well with the other 5 dogs. He really needs to be with a single person or a family that does not have any other dogs. I only want a good home for him. If you take him and he does not work out for you, I will gladly take him back. I’m not trying to unload a problem, I just want what is best for the guy. (686) 151-7631 or email bajabarrister@gmail.com ITEMS FOR SALE Ponga for Sale in Loreto. 22-foot Panga, with 75 HP Mercury, runs great, 71/2 Mercury kicker, side console, live bait well, self bailing, bilge pump, fish finder (2), VHF radio, built-in gas tank, storage under front deck with cushioned top, easy load galvanized trailer. LOTS OF EXTRA STUFF TOO! A steal at $3,900. 13-30343 in Nopolo, email vandenberg88@hotmail.com Colisiones Corona: Genuine and after market auto body parts, Radiators, Hoods, Headlamps, Taillaps, Fenders, Grilles, Bumpers, Signal lamps, Door handles, Mirrors, AC condensers. (Auto Wrecking). 428-C, Blvd. Benito Juarez, Playas de Rosarito B.C., 152*14*19670 (661) 613-1109 REAL ESTATE San Felipe: Ejido property. 1 acre outstanding view lot, no util. $35,000. 120’ x 120’ lot with util, may divide $23,000. 60’ x 60’ lot, septic installed, water & elec., fenced $16,000. 2 acre blk of lots, no util. $39,000. Contact andrenajoyce@yahoo.com (686) 210-4598
San Felipe: Pete’s Camp. This Great Home is just 75 yards from the white sandy beach. This beautiful two-bedroon, two-bath home has a two-car garage attached and is appointed with a true Mexican feel. Rooftop patio has panoramic views. The property is on leased land and has renewable 10 year leases. $185,000. bajajim007@yahoo. com. http://jimmoore3.point2agent.com. (686) 184-9237 On the Golf Course, La Ventana Del Mar, San Felipe. Beautifully appointed, and tastefully furnished two story, #2 plan, condo is located at El Dorado Ranch. Private patio, gourmet kitchen with granite counter tops, G.E. Low Profile Stainless Steel appliances, oven, cook top, microwave, dishwasher and refrigerator, stacked washer/dryer. $255,000. bajajim007@yahoo.com, http://jimmoore3.point2agent. com. (686) 184-9237 La Ventana Del Mar, Sea-View Condo, San Felipe. Two Master Suites, 2 bath, and No stairs to climb! Water-view patio overlooking new proposed event lawn. Granite countertops, breakfast bar, entertainment alcove, electric start fireplace, stacked washer/dryer closet, alarm system, satellite TV, two-car garage, reverse osmosis drinking water system and more! $325,000. bajajim007@yahoo.com. http://jimmoore3.point2agent.com (686) 184-9237
All ads must be placed online at www.mexicolivingforum.com. All Ads Must be posted by the last Friday of each month. All ads must be specific, no generic ads, All ads must contain contact info and price. Mexico Living reserves the right to edit all ads for length, or to refuse any ads. We will not print ads submitted with ALL CAPS.
San Felipe: 9 Large electric lots in Ejido Plan de Ayala, Reduced to $15,000. These lots are first come first served. 17,000 Sq. Ft., 131’ x 131,’ These oversized lots are in the emerging community next to El Dorado Ranch. Just 1 mile west of highway 5. Many homes surrounding these lots are under construction. Just reduced! These are the cheapest electric lots in the Ejido! Just reduced to $15,000.00 ea. Jim Moore (686) 184-9237, bajajim007@yahoo.com
Loreto: Casitas by week or month. Fully furnished steps from Harbor/ Beach. New 1–3 person casitas with full kitchens, AC, pool and BBQ area. www.eltiburoncasitas.com, U.S. (805) 459-3100
RENTAL PROPERTY
VEHICLES FOR SALE
San Felipe: 3BR/4BR long-term rental WANTED. Looking for a modern, well-built 3 or 4 bedroom home for long-term rental in San Felipe. Principals only please call Bill at (686) 577-6228 (MX) or (408) 868-4992 (U.S.) La Mision: 2 bed, 2 bath House for Rent. Large house with view, carport, fenced yard ,fireplace, utility room, glassed in porch. $600 per month plus utilities. (619) 270-8991 or email bette.webb@ gmail.com
San Felipe: Largest Condo plan, Professionally Furnished, La Ventana Del Mar. This beautifully appointed 2-story home is steps to the pool and beach. Includes the 18 hole championship golf course. Master bath includes a shower, sunken tub and walk-in closet. Large guest bedroom, gourmet kitchen. Three-car garage. 2,890 sq. ft. More amenities than can be listed. $395,000 bajajim007@yahoo.com http://jimmoore3.point2agent.com. (686) 184-9237
The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
San Felipe: 2000 Honda 500R - 2 stroke motor. Needs a little work for flawless performance. US$800. (686) 171-6885 San Felipe: 1980 Chinook 19’ Motorhome. Oldie but goodie California Titled. Rugged all fiberglass construction. 360 V8 Dodge chassis. Condition is OK with some TLC. (686) 171-6885
PUBLIC ANNOUNCEMENTS
San Felipe: 1, 2 and 3 Bedroom Luxury Beach Front Condominiums. Summer Rate starting as low as US$100 per night. Playa del Paraiso, (888) 647-5292 San Ignacio: Ignacio Springs after Hurricane Jimena is ready with 5 rooms. Only one month after Jimena’s rain was to the tops of the doors in our office/kitchen, we are open for business thanks to the great support from our good friends, who were customers first, family and our staff. www.ignaciosprings.com, email ignaciospringsbyb@ prodigy.net.mx or mail@ignaciosprings.com
Across 1: Italian sports cars 6: Ticked off 11: Not against 14: Professional slang 15: Flush or blush 16: ‘PUSH FOR ___’ 17: Idol worshipper? 19: Just released 20: Lion’s pride 21: Fish tank plant life 23: Sports injuries, often 27: Clement 29: Aspiring doc’s course 30: Think over 31: Coated with hoarfrost 32: Hospital sections 33: Links tee 36: Computer signpost 37: Smooths, in a way 38: Scottish hillside 39: Half a score 40: Frenzies 41: Savoir-faire 42: Unwelcome looks 44: Hags 45: Bicarb, e.g. 47: Bridge support 48: Flourless cake 49: It’s not good to have in one’s mouth 50: Some gametes 51: Committee head 42
San Felipe: 1989 Toyota 4Runner, 4 banger. Needs TLC US$2,400. (686) 171-6885
San Felipe: V.W. powered “Sand Rail” for sale! Great toy for the beach or desert! 1835cc VW engine. $3,200 OBO. Jim Moore (686) 1849237, bajajim007@yahoo.com
Loreto: Property in the central district, $160,000. Near beach/ harbor. Residential or Comm.Cleared and filled lot between the Harbor and Mission in the central district. Utilities and mature fruit trees. Full title, 160,000. Liz or Jack, U.S. (805) 748-4568 Classic Spanish Beauty, El Dorado Ranch, San Felipe. Beautiful, fully furnished home located in Eldorado “Rancho del Sol 1.” Constructed with the fabulous TRI-D paneling. Laundry room with washer/dryer, carport, porch, landscaped backyard with a Palapa and rooftop deck for mountain, Sea of Cortez and sunset views. Complete furnishings including linens and full outfitted kitchen. $349,000. bajajim007@ yahoo.com, http://jimmoore3.point2agent.com, (686) 184-9237
Puerto Penasco: Vacation Rentals from $106. Las Palomas www. postlets.com/rts/1978829 and Bella Sirena www.postlets.com/ rts/1965187 or call (520) 490-3420
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
San Felipe: Charity Cookbook - Benefits the food-related charities in San Felipe. I am collecting recipes for appetizers, potluck dishes, main dishes, desserts and drinks. Recipes will go into a delightful cookbook with proceeds going to the San Felipe Food Bank. Send your contributions to sanfelipecooks@yahoo.ca. Debbi Moore and the Cookbook Crew.
FREE CLASSIFIED ads can now be submitted via email, classified@mexicoliving.info. All ads must be 60 words or less and contain phone number, city and price.
58: Chess piece 59: Distinctive atmospheres 60: Summer ermine 61: Go down 62: Right-hand page 63: Agent’s take, maybe Down 1: Jack Sprat no-no 2: Wrath 3: Historical period 4: Bon or won follower 5: Left clueless 6: Computer symbols 7: Lassoer’s cord 8: Mont Blanc, for one 9: Water temperature ‘gauge’ 10: Gofers’ tasks 11: Its arch might be plain or tented 12: Dolphins’ home 13: Keep on dunking 18: Wedding entertainment 22: A white one is small 23: Yardarm 24: Number on a tag 25: Expostulatory 26: Last word in prayer 27: Prayer preceder 28: Budgets make them meet 30: Glass squares 32: Carried on
34: Stand for a portrait 35: They honk and hiss 37: Bombay garment 38: Spooks’ sounds 40: It may be found in a pit 41: Diagnostic school exam 43: Feline, to Tweety 44: Cut short 45: Matter makers 46: Super stars 47: Human trunk 49: That’s an order 52: Tint 53: Eyebrow shape 54: Map abbr. 55: George W. Bush, to George H.W. Bush 56: Feed seed 57: Utmost
OPEN HOUSE PHOTO ADS Publish your real estate photo
Open House US$499,000 A Peaceful Paradise in Vista Del Sol, El Dorado Ranch, San Felipe One can truly appreciate the beauty
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San Felipe, Baja California Located in Pete’s Camp, this near new home is designed for privacy! Two master suites at either end with a great room in between. Fireplace, breakfast bar in kitchen. Rooftop patio with views of the Sea of Cortez, the golf course and the mountains! One car garage, lots of custom built-in cabinets. A must see! Priced to sell. Located in the most trusted of campos, with 10-year renewable land leases. $125,000. bajajim007@yahoo.com, http:// jimmoore3.point2agent.com, (686) 184-9237.
The outdoor living area is over 9,000 sq. ft. of finished surfaces including pool, spa, shower, full kitchen, five different seating areas, fireplace and lots of privacy. The two-bedroom, one-bath casita has private entries for each room and separate energy system, so they are only used when occupied. San Felipe, Baja California Casa de Llantas FOR SALE by Owner. Contact andrenajoyce@yahoo.com, (686) 210-4598. Artist designed, custom-built tire home in the Ejido. Two master suites, two baths, spacious open floorplan, tiled, fenced and landscaped, garage. Furnished and ready to move in. Owner will carry with substantial down. You must see this unique home! $149,000
The list of amenities on this property is extensive; fully upgraded furniture and kitchen appliances, 18-inch floor tile, 12 premium ceiling fans, entertainment center (DVD, HD Dish receivers) and 109-inch Surround Sound Projection DLP Home Theatre. Outdoor kitchen has a TV, all stainless steel BBQ, four-burner cooktop and oven, sink, refrigerator and microwave. Landscaping has complete automatic drip system, Hague water conditioning system with UV filter and reverse
San Felipe, Baja California Campo Ocotillo, San Felipe. Great views and comfort! This two-bedroom home has a great patio view of the Sea of Cortez. A large great room with lots of windows, includes the kitchen, dining area and living room with a fireplace. The guest bedroom has two beds and is very cozy. The master bedroom has a sitting area and a second fireplace. The home has city water and underground electricity. The carport has a large rooftop patio for viewing the Sea and the mountains. Priced for a quick sale. Make an offer. The lease is around $750 a year and is located in a secure,well-trusted and developed campo. $59,500. bajajim007@yahoo.com, http:// jimmoore3.point2agent.com, (686) 184-9237.
osmosis in kitchen, five-ton and 3-ton heat and air conditioning, 2–40 gallon hot water heaters, 37 exterior lights and numerous solar yard lights, and many more than can be listed here. San Felipe, Baja California Great Retirement Home located in the fully Gated Community of El Dorado Ranch.Two bedrooms,two baths, kitchen, dining room, fully furnished, sleeps four, great room with combination fireplace (propane and wood), central HV/AC, blue water view, Palapa and BBQ, 2,500-gallon cistern. Plus,potable water and grey water system, Master Trust Status can be automatically assumed by new owner without fees. Fideicomiso (Bank Trust) available to purchaser at buyer’s expense. Owner Financing (Lease Option) available to qualifing buyer. $185,000. bajajim007@yahoo.com, http:// jimmoore3.point2agent.com, (686) 184-9237.
This million dollar property is available for only US$499,000. The home comes completely and fully TURNKEY to start living your DREAM! Just show up with your bags. If you’re interested in touring the home, please contact Bill Maine in Mexico at (619) 203-5129; from the U.S. at (760) 688-6238; or email VIPearthEvents@gmail.com.
WWW.MEXICOLIVINGGUIDE.COM/OPENHOUSE CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1
San Felipe, Baja California El Dorado Ranch, Del Sol I, San Felipe, Corner Lot for sale! Great buildable corner lot in established neighborhood. Electric kiosk already built. Unobstructed views of the San Martir mountains. Close to all community services, swimming pool, tennis courts, golf course, restaurants, stores and gas station. 10,000 sq. ft. lot. Priced to sell at $29,500. bajajim007@yahoo.com, http:// jimmoore3.point2agent.com, (686) 184-9237.
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009
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Real Estate
San Felipe
MEXICO LIVING
mor Property
Guide Pacific Baja & The Sea of Cortez PO Boxto 9019-460 Calexico, CA 92232
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The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
MEXICO LIVING – December 2009 CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1