Edition 33 - February 2010

www.mexicolivingguide.com – No. 33 February / febrero 2010

Plus: ■ Foul Play or Just a Runaway . . .

The Mysterious Disappearance of Karen Wright

■ La Bufadora

An absolute “must-see” wonder of the world—just 20 miles south of Ensenada

■ Return of the Condor

Carnaval

Close to extinction, North America’s largest flying bird returns to Mexico

■ Remembering Tony Reyes The passing of a Baja fishing legend

2010

4th Anniversary Edition

Tijuana 6

Tecate

Rosarito Beach

2D

les mi 53

GD

Bahia Todos Santos

CONSTITUTION OF 1857 NATIONAL PARK

Valle de Guadalupe

6

Los Algodones

Mexicali

GD

BAJA NORTE

Yuma

Ensenada

La Bufadora

29 M

Ne w

Co a

sta

GD

Colonet GD

lH

8

wy

Puerto Penasco

SAN PEDRO MARTIR NATIONAL PARK

(Rocky Point)

National Astronomic Observatory

M 23

Bahia Colonet

Lukeville, AZ Sonoyta

Gulfo de Santa Clara

Santo Tomas

Colonia Vicente Guerrero

18 M

San Felipe

6

GD

San Quintin Puertecitos 35 M

Carborca

GD

get gas if southbound

El Rosario

77

Bahia Rosario

Isla Miramar Isla Lobos Isla Encantada Isla San Luis

M

Bahia San Luis Gonzaga

64 M Bahia LA turnoff

Bahia de Los Angeles

Punta Prieta 33 M

Bahia Maria

Isla Angel de la Guarda

40 M

nia

Bahia Blanco

ora

r fo

li Ca PACIFIC OCEAN

S on

ja

Ba

Cataviña

Isla Tiburon

Santa Rosalillita

Bahia Santa Rosalillita

Isla San Lorenzo Isla San Esteban

Puerto de Santo Domingo

Bahia de Sebastian Vizcaino

Villa Jesus Maria

GD

Guerrero Negro

Laguna CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1 Ojo Vizciano de Liebre

O

91 M

PUNTA EUGENIA BAHIA February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California TORTUGAS Bahia Tortugas

Bahia San Rafael

LF

2

PUNTA FALSA

get gas if northbound

GU

Lighthouse

G

G

Puerto de Santo Domingo

Bahia de Sebastian Vizcaino PUNTA FALSA

Guerrero Negro

Vizciano

LIF CA

46 M

GD

Isla Tortuga

Santa Rosalia

GD

San Ignacio 46 M

Mulegé

GD

Bahia de Concepcion

ao

Bahia San Nicolas

r ni

86 M

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Bahia San Basilio

aS

G

(Se

o alif aC Baj

7

El Coyote

Bahia de Ballenas

La Purisma

ur

PACIFIC OCEAN

Bahia Santa Ines

NIA OR

Isla San Marcos

Bahia de Ballenas

Guaymas

OF

G

BAHIA ASUNCION Bahia Asuncion PUNTA PRIETA Bahia San Hipolito LA BOCANA

PUNTA ABREOJOS

San Carlos

LF

Laguna Ojo de Liebre

91 M

PUNTA EUGENIA BAHIA TORTUGAS Bahia Tortugas

BAJA SUR

GD

GU

Lighthouse

northbound

Villa Jesus Maria

7

GD

Loreto Isla del Carmen

Isla Danzante Isla Monserrat

80 M

Isla Santa Catalina

GD Ciudad Insurgentes 12 M

Isla Santa Cruz

Bahia Santa Maria Bahia Magdalena

CIUDAD GDCONSTITUCION

Isla San Jose

Isla San Francisco Santa Rita

Bahia Almejas

Bahia de la Paz Isla Espiritu Santo

Isla Santa Margarita 133 M

La Paz GD

Isla Cerralvo

8

Bahia la Ventana Bahia Muertos

LEGEND: 1

- Page of city map & directory

GD

- Pemex Gas and/or Diesel

70 M

Todos Santos

- International Airport - Highway Sign

GD

Los Barriles

9M

4 48 M

Pescadero

8

Bahia las Palmas

SIERRA DE LA GD 10 LAGUNA NATIONAL PARK

GD

Cabo San Lucas CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

9 9 GD

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

M 19

San Jose del Cabo

www.mexicolivingguide.com

3

Welcome to Baja

Move from ANYWHERE in the USA to ANYWHERE in Mexico!

Let our team of professionals handle everything for you

A Z

From

to

MX (686) 576-0432 E-mail: sfelipe3@prodigy.net.mx

www.sanfelipesafestorage.com

Internet Café & Business Center Copies • Internet • Email Snail mail • Coffee • Muffins Soda • Snacks

01(661)614-0513 www.bajasclick-on.com

The Mexican states of Baja California, Baja California Sur and Sonora make up Northwest Mexico as covered by our guide. The region features an enormous diversity of landscapes like no place on earth—a land of quiet, colorful deserts, endless beaches, majestic mountains, forests, unexplained rock formations, brilliant clear skies, an average temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit and some of the most welcoming people in the world.

Northwest Mexico is the destination of choice for retirees, investors, entrepreneurs, travelers and vacationers alike.

The U.S. State Department says that more Americans retire in Mexico than any other place on the globe; 51 percent of all U.S. retirees who live outside of the U.S. live in Mexico.

15% OFF

Homeowners Insurance

Call or e-mail TODAY! Mail - YETMAIL 277 segurosalanis@prodigy.net.mx

686-577-2464 • FAX 686-577-2916

4

We hope our guide helps you to enjoy Northwest Mexico to the fullest. Explore!

WHAT DO I NEED? Passport. On June 1, 2009, the U.S. government implemented the full requirements of the land and sea phase of WHTI. The new rules require most U.S. citizens entering the United States at sea or land ports of entry to have a passport, passport card or other travel document approved by the Department of Homeland Security. Additional information can be found at: http://travel.state.gov/passport.

Declaration Lane ($75–$1,000) If you are bringing more than US$75 worth of merchandise per person, but not more than US$1,000, you may declare it by driving into the customs facility through the declaration lane (carril de declaración). There you will be able to fill out the proper documents and pay any duty.

Duty can be between 15 percent and 25 percent of the value of the merchandise.

What can I bring into Mexico?

As you approach the border, there are generally multiple lanes labeled “Nothing to Declare - Nada que Declarar” and “Declaration Lane - Carril de Declaración.”

IMPORTANT NOTES: • Guns are illegal in Mexico. Do not attempt to cross the border with a gun and/or ammunition. You will be put in jail even if you were not aware of the Mexican law.

• If you have more than $10,000 in U.S. currency or equivalent, or other monetary instruments, you must declare this with Mexican customs, otherwise it is a crime.

• You must declare if you are bringing any animals, agricultural products or medicines for other than personal use.

• Amounts over US$1,000 require the use of a Mexican customs broker.

Nothing to Declare Lane This lane is used when you are bringing, as a tourist (FMT) $75 or less. Your personal luggage and other merchandise up to the allowed exemption US$75 per person. The amount is cumulative per number of people in the vehicle. For example two people would have a $150 exemption. You must have receipts and invoices to qualify for the exemption.

DRIVER LICENSE INSURANCE

Mexico is economical; the dollar goes further here than it does in Europe, Canada and the most popular destinations of Asia. The people of Mexico are accustomed to Americans and vice versa. Mexico welcomes American retirees and tourists and is increasingly prepared to offer the foods, goods and services that Americans like and expect.

Whether you’re looking to retire, invest, vacation or operate a business, Northwest Mexico is the place.

Personal Items Allowed: • New or used such as clothes, shoes and toiletries in quantities that would be considered not for resale.

• Two photographic or video cameras and charger.

• Two cellular phones or walkie-talkies.

• Laptop, notebook, etc.

• Two sports equipment items.

• Portable radio recorder and/or player, speakers and accessories.

• Five laser discs, 10 DVDs, 30 CDs or cassette tapes.

Five storage devices or memory cards.

• Books and magazines in quantities that would be considered not for resale.

• Five toys, video game console and video games.

• Medicine for personal use, one blood pressure instrument, one glucose testing device. In the case of psychotropic drugs, make sure you bring the prescription. Note: Be careful not to bring a large quantity of your prescription medication.

• One set of binoculars, one telescope.

• Two cartons of cigarettes, 25 cigars or 200 grams of tobacco if you are of age (if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties).

• Up to three liters of liquor and six liters of wine (if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties).

• Strollers and baby walkers.

• Two musical instruments and accessories.

• Tent and equipment for camping.

• Crutches, canes, walkers and wheelchairs for personal use.

• Tool sets including hand drills, wire cutters, wrenches, screwdrivers, cables, etc.

• Bedding sets including one sheet set, one towel set, a set of table linens.

• Two dogs or cats and pet items.

• Up to $10,000 in U.S. currency or equivalent in other currencies, foreign or national checks, and/or other monetary instruments.

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

WHAT CAN I TAKE HOME? You can take home US$800 of duty-free merchandise per person, per month, including one liter of alcohol.

Mexican arts and crafts, including handcrafted furniture, are duty-free and do not count toward the $800 limit.

DIALING INSTRUCTIONS Mexico City: (011) 52-55, plus the 8-digit telephone number.

Guadalajara: (011) 52-33, plus the 8-digit telephone number.

Tijuana: (011) 52-664, plus the 7-digit telephone number.

USA to MX Cell Phone: 011+52+1+Area Code+(Tel #) USA to MX Landline: 011+52+Area Code+(Tel #) MX to USA: 001+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Landline to MX Cell Phone: 045 or 044+Area Code+(Tel #) MX Cell Phone to MX Landline: Area Code+(Tel #) DIALING 800 NUMBER: Some charges may apply when call 800 numbers internationally, please check with the telephone carrier.

800 DIALING to the USA From MX (dial 001+)

TOURIST VISA and VEHICLE PERMIT Tourists staying 72 hours or less within “the border zone” do not need a visa. Those traveling beyond the border zone or entering Mexico by air must pay a fee to obtain a tourist card, also known as an FMT, available from Mexican consulates, Mexican border crossing points, Mexican tourism offices, airports within the border zone and most airlines serving Mexico. The fee is generally included in the price of a plane ticket for travelers arriving by air. Please note that travelers not in possession of their FMT card at the point of exit from Mexico may face a fine from Mexican Immigration.

A vehicle permit is NOT required to travel the Baja Peninsula; however, you must obtain a vehicle permit if you travel to Mexico’s mainland.

To Dial USA 800.................... dial 880

MILITARY CHECKPOINTS There are military checkpoints along the way to all the northwest border cities. These checkpoints serve the same purpose as the California and Arizona highway inspection stops you’ll encounter on the return north. The soldiers will be carrying weapons, but there is nothing to be concerned about, the soldiers are looking for drugs and guns. You’ll find them to be polite and friendly. They may ask to look inside your or RV. Checkpoints on both sides of the border were established based on an agreement between the United States and Mexico to fight the war on drugs.

Fire dept...................................... 068

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

visitmexico.com

To Dial USA 866.................... dial 883 To Dial USA 877.................... dial 882 To Dial USA 888.................... dial 881 IMPORTANT NUMBERS: Emergency dial 132 free from any phone and Mexican cell phone carriers Red Cross................................... 066 Police Dept................................. 060 Electricity (emergency and nonemergency)................................ 071 Legal Assistance......................... 061 Tourist Assistance....................... 078 Tourism Department.................... 078 Secretary of Tourism - BC Arturo Martínez Esquer (Facilitation and Tourist Assistance Sub Direction) amartineze@baja.gob.mx Secretary of Tourism - BCS.....612-24-0100

{Welcome to baja} Welcome to Baja – City Maps & Business Directory BAJA CALIFORNIA

ROSARITO BEACH, BAJA CALIFORNIA

Playas de Rosarito, or Rosarito Beach as it is referred to in English, is a city in the Mexican state of Baja California. It is located between the Pacific Ocean and the coastal foothills, just 20 minutes south of the U.S. border in Tijuana and is a popular destination for tourists, snowbirds and expatriates from the United States.

With 20 miles of white, sandy beaches with endless activities, Rosarito offers a large variety of places to stay and things to do, including incredible shopping in the Artisan shops with some of Mexico’s finest leather goods, furniture, wrought iron, pottery, marble and traditional Mexican crafts.

You’ll find a culinary paradise of international cuisine from traditional Mexican, sensational seafood and delicious steaks to American, Chinese, French and Italian specialties. Be sure to visit the well-known lobster village, Puerto Nuevo, just 15 minutes south of Rosarito—a tourist and culinary destination. Whether staying for vacation or life, you will enjoy Playas de Rosarito.

ATM/GETTING CASH Banamex, Bancomer and Bital have 24-hour ATMs that accept most U.S. bank cards all along the Tijuana–Rosarito–Ensenada corridor.

Only pesos are dispensed; you can get dollars from an HSBC ATM. Your account in the U.S. is charged that day’s rate of exchange. A service fee will also be deducted from your account.

Municipal/Municipal Airport “Abelardo L Rodriguez International Airport”..................................... 664-607-8200 Immigration.................................................. 661-612-7262

Ensenada, BAJA CALIFORNIA Ensenada is the third-largest city in the state of Baja California. About 70 miles south of the San Diego/Tijuana border, located in the Bahía de Todos Santos—an inlet of the Pacific Ocean—Ensenada is an important commercial and fishing port as well as a cruise ship stop.

The city is backed by small mountain ranges, and due to its location on the Pacific Ocean and Mediterranean latitude, the weather tends to be mild year round.

Most of the shopping is at sea level, making it a great city for getting around on your own

energy. Ensenada is easy to navigate with all numbered streets running north and south, and celebrity-named streets running east and west.

Ensenada has the accommodations to meet any level of comfort or amenities. Prices can range depending on the time of year from $30 to $250 plus. The best hotels are located to the north and south of town, along the beach, and are not within walking distance from downtown shopping and attractions; but taxi and shuttles are available in most locations.

BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z

Professional Services PSN Mexico Professional Services.................646-178-8280 Legal/Immigration Assist FM3/FM2/FMT Import documentation www.psnmexico.com

BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z DENTIST Consultorio Dental......................................... 661-612-4204 DOG GROOMERS D’ Groomer Dog Grooming . ................... 661-100-6218

Aeropuerto/Airport Aeropuerto ...................................................646-273-1984

Elevators/Elevadores To The Top Elevators..................................... 661-614-1434

Art Gallery Garery Art & Stuff..........................................646-175-8859

FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company........... ......................686-576-0653

ARTIST Alfonso Arambulua.........................................646-149-3866

MAILING SERVICES . ............................................... 661-614-0513

DEVELOPMENT MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE FRACCIONAMIENTOS ........................ 1-800-434-2252 Baja Mar Country Club

REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services.................... 760-494-7053

FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company..................................686-576-0653

Click On

Satellite TV Installation Cisco-Sat...................................................... 661-616-0779 STORAGE SERVICES Baja Public Storage....................................... 619-616-0779 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE ................................. 612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . ..................................................... 612-142 0001 CALIGAS....................................................... 612-142 0122

HEALTH SPA La Fonda........................................................646-155-0394 MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS ISSSTE .........................................................646-176-2230 IMSS ............................................................646-120-7771 Centro de Salud.............................................646-152-1371 MUSIC/MUSICA Pharmacy Regia & House of Music................646-174-0557

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

POLICE/POLICÍA Policia Ministerial...........................................646-176-3636 Policia Federal Caminos................................ 646-683-8040 Policia Federal Preventiva ..............................646-176-2579 Prefectura Naval.......................................... 469-0376/2948 public transportation/el transporte público Terminal de Buses..........................................646-224-1041 REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Nicolas Santos (Rosarito)...............................619-917-5695 REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services.....................760-494-7053 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE ..................................612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . ...................................................... 612-142 0001 CALIGAS........................................................ 612-142 0122 Vinos Fuentes Winery

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

Winery .............................646-171-7070

www.mexicolivingguide.com

5

{Welcome to baja} BUILDING MATERIALS/MATERIALES DE CONTRUCCIÓN Maderas de San Felipe.................................. 686-577-1515 CATERING The Latin Garden........................................... 686-209-6369

The San Felipe Arches

CHOCOLATE/CHOCOLATE Baja Chocolate Lovers................................... 686-576-0348 church Mission San Felipe........................................ 686-577-0877

The monument at the entrance to San Felipe was built in 1980 to represent the commitment of the four states around the Sea of Cortez (Baja California Norte, Baja California Sur, Sinaloa, and Sonora) to promote tourism and the regions beauty and charm.

CITY SERVICES/SERVICIOS DE LA CIUDAD District Attorney’s......................................... 686-577-1110 Mayors Office............................................... 686-577-1021 COMPUTER SERVICES CSI–Computer & Satellite Installation............. 686-577-2928 CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE CONSTRUCCIÓN Sweitzer Construction Management ............. 686-577-0195 Perez Construction........................................ 686-576-0650 COUNSELING-THERAPY/CONSULTA TERAPÉUTICA Inner Connection........................................... 686-172-8851 DELI SunDance Deli.............................................. 686-576-0369 DENTIST/DENTISTA California Dental Spa..................................... 686-577-0708 Consultorio Dental Y de Ortodoncia .............. 686-577-6212 DEVELOPMENTS/FRACCIONAMIENTOS El Dorado Ranch........................................... 686-577-0015 Oasis de Cortez............................................ 760-208-1700 Playa de Oro................................................. 686-576-0223 Playa del Paraiso................................. 888-647-5292 x 704 San Rafael.................................................... 686-576-0223 DOCTORS/DOCTORES Dr. Victor Abasolo............. 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174 ENTERTAINMENT/ENTRETENIMIENTO Name That Tune - Denny Flannigan................ 686-576-1683 The Singout Sisters & Chuey (Karaoke)......... 686-576-0047 EVENT SERVICES/servicios acontecimiento Produciones Baja.......................................... 686-576-1683

San Felipe, BAJA CALIFORNIA San Felipe is a small fishing village, situated on the Sea of Cortez, 118 miles south of the U.S. border, which was historically dependent upon fishing; however, today tourism and real estate provide the economic base. Even as it grows into the next century with four-lane highways, it will remain a small fishing village in its heart and soul.

Today, San Felipe is maturing into a sophisticated resort community with resorts, luxury condos, fine restaurants, sport fishing and world-class off-road adventures.

The beaches extend north and south with over 50 miles of shoreline to explore, including 23-

FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company........... ......................686-576-0653

foot tides, exposing a kilometer or more of ocean floor—one of the largest tidal bores in the world.

And directly behind San Felipe is Sierra San Pedro Martír, the tallest mountains in Baja.

The desert terrain is vast and offers incredible trails and exploration for ATVs, dirt bikes and offroad vehicles. Just south of San Felipe are extensive sand dunes ideal for buggies and rails.

The Valley of the Giants, the natural reserve of the thousand-year-old Cardon Cactus, has become a major attraction. In addition, San Felipe offers great bargain shopping for souvenirs, arts and much more.

FILM DEVELOPMENT/IMPRESION DE FOTOS Fotografia Alvarez.......................................... 686-577-1144 FURNITURE/MUEBLERÍA Baja Nueva................................................... 686-187-7795 GIFT BajaGlitz....................................................... 686-175-5420 GOLF/GOLF Las Caras de Mexico..................................... 686-576-0517 Graphic Design/Diseño Gráfico GreetScape................................................... 686-188-2393 HATS/sombreros Band It.......................................................... 686-123-5147 HOME BUILDERS/CONTRATISTAS Oscar Perez.................................................. 686-120-6506 Perez Construction........................................ 686-236-4927 San Felipe Home Builders.............................. 686-577-3176 IMPORT SERVICES/SE RVICIOS DE IMPORTACIÓN San Felipe Moving & Storage......................... 686-576-0432

Municipal/Municipal Civil Protection Unit....................................... 686-577-1433 Chamber of Commerce................................. 686-577-1104 Fire Dept/Ambulance..................................... 686-577-1182 Federal Preventive Police............................... 686-577-1045 Immigration Office......................................... 686-577-1083 Port Captain.................................................. 686-577-1577 State Judicial Police...................................... 686-577-1203 Tourism Department...................................... 686-577-1155

Insurance Alani’s Mexican Insurance............................. 686-577-2464 ADULT CARE/ATENCION DE ADULTOS San Felipe Adult Living Facility....................... 686-576-0661 BAKERY/PANADERÍA Panaderia Especial........................................ 686-577-1902

INTERIOR DESIGN/DISEÑO INTERIOR Baja Nueva................................................... 686-211-4676 JEWELRY BajaTreasures............................................... 686-122-2668

BANK/BANCO BBVA Bancomer............................................ 686-577-2224 Silvia Elizabeth Urbea, Preferred Customer’s Unit Ext. 13

LANDSCAPING/JARDINERÍA Versoleil........................................................ 686-576-0664

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)

BANDS/BANDAS Agave Blues.................................................. 686-184-9237

LIFEGUARD/SALVAVIDAS San Felipe Lifeguards.................................... 686-233-7730 Ask for Franscio

ACCOUNTING/CONTABILIDAD CP E&A Accounting............................................ 686-577-0836

BARS/CLUBS The Beach Bar and Grill................................. 686-577-3144 The Green Door Bar (Los Algodones)............ 658-517-7347 Los Arcos - Happy Jackass........................... 686-577-2585

MASSAGE/MASAJE Casey’s Place (Massage).............................. 686-577-1431

Alterations/sastre San Felipe Seamstress (Vickie Silva)............. 686-175-5420 ARCHITECT/ARQUITECTO Rosa Lina Ramos Lazcano............................ 686-184-6172 ARTIST/ARTISTA Andrena Joyce................E-mail: andrenajoyce@yahoo.com Melody Ashley............... E-mail: melodya2004@yahoo.com Robin Waters................................................ 686-115-0526

6

BEAUTY SALONS/SALONES DE BELLEZA Lilly Ana’s Day Spot...................................... 686-577-6253 Hair By Nancy.............................................. .686-113-3682 BOOKSTORES El Cadallo Blanco.......................................... 613-116-5374

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

Meat Markets/Carnecerias Mercados Zsamaniegos Carnecerias (Z Market)............. 686-577-1676 MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS Ambulance................................................... 686-577-0500 Health Center............................................... 686-577-1521 Red Cross..................................................... 686-577-1544 Dr. Victor Abasolo............. 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

MOVING Services San Felipe Moving & Storage......................... 686-576-0432 Optometrists/Opthamologists California Optical........................................... 686-577-0708 MaxivisionOptical = OpticaMaxivision........... 686-577-0320 PHARMACY/FARMACIA Botica “Sagrado Corazon”............................. 686-577-1294 Santa Fe Pharmacy ...................................... 686-576-0546 POLICE/POLICÍA Federal Preventive Police .............................. 686-577-1045 Police .......................................................... 686-577-1134 POSTAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS POSTALES Yet Mail......................................................... 686-577-1255 SunRunner Mail Center . ............................... 686-147-6752 PRINTERS/IMPRESORAS Papeleria Copicentro..................................... 686-577-1402 The Print Supplier.......................................... 686-230-9933 PROPERTY MANAGEMENT/ MANEJO DE PROPIEDADES Custom Vacation Homes............................... 928-277-6863 928-277-7559 & visit www.sanfelipevacations.com Redwagon Property Services........................ 686-576-0081 PUBLICATIONS/PUBLICACIONES Gringo Gazette.............................................. 686-111-3692 Mexico Living Magazine................................ 686-577-1377 San Felipe Newsletter.................................... 686-577-2898 REAL ESTATE AGENTS/ AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Bill Maine...................................................... 686-231-4921 Jim Moore........................................MX Cell 686-184-9237 REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES Baja 24/7 Construction & Real Estate............ 686-577-6196 REAL ESTATE SERVICES/ servicios DE BIENES RAÍCES Baja Closing & Escrow Services.................... 686-576-0653 RECREATION/RECREACIÓN Aerodynamic - Ultralight flights . ................... 686-116-2933 SATELLITE TELEVISION & INTERNET/ TELEVISION SATELITALES Y INTERNET CSI - Computer & Satellite Installation........... 686-577-2928 SERVICE ORGANIZATIONS/ ORGANIZACIONES DE SERVICIO Club Las Amigas........................................... 686-202-0455 San Felipe Lions Club.................................... 686-212-3599 San Felipe Rotary.......................................... 686-576-0112 Solar BC Solar Cooking.......................................... 686-106-9693 SPECIALTY STORES Sea of Cortez Salt......................................... 686-209-0074 SPORT FISHING Azteca Sport Fishing and Tours..................... 686-577-0741 STORAGE/ALMACÉN San Felipe Moving & Storage......................... 686-576-0432 TATTOOING/TATUAJES Baja Ink Spot Tattoo & Body Piercing............. 686-577-0746 TRANSPORTATION/TRANSPORTACIÓN Airport.......................................................... 686-577-1368 Taxi Service.................................................. 686-577-1293 Bus Station .................................................. 686-577-1516 utilities/ empresas de servicios públicos Electric (CFE).................... 686-577-1060 or 686-577-5602 Estrella Azul (Water Dispensery).................... 686-577-1314 Propane Gas................................................. 686-577-2373 State Com. of Services Public....................... 686-556-1383 Telnor Phone Co............................................ 686-577-1000 Water Company............................................ 686-577-1022 VETERINARY/VETERINARIO ZAPP Animal Center...................................... 686-111-1143 WASTE MANAGEMENT/ MANEJO DE DESHECHO San Felipe Disposal....................................... 686-121-1004

MEXICO LIVING

BAJA CALIFORNIA Guide to Pacific Baja & The Sea of Cortez

The Baja Peninsula Community Newspaper

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{Welcome to baja} BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR San Ignacio

BCS Photo

Loreto, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur La Paz (“The Peace”) is the capital city of Baja California Sur located at 24.1405°N 110.3123°Wand is an important commercial center. Its surrounding municipality, which is the fourth-largest municipality in Mexico in geographical size, in 2005 reported a population of 219,596 living on 7,828.2 square miles of land.

La Paz is typically dry and warm with averages of 75–77 degrees Fahrenheit, and 300 days or better of sunshine annually. Summer months are often in the 90’s and can be humid.

The winter months can drop below 60, but stays mostly in the mid-60’s. During the summer the cooling Coromuel winds, a weather phenom-

When in need of an ambulance, please call the Police number first (they will dispatch the call) and then the Fire Department number. Police number is 135-0035 or 135-0036. By following this procedure, you can be assured of being assisted.

Mulegé, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur Mulegé is situated at the mouth of the Río Santa Rosalía (26°53´17˝N 111°58´53˝W), in the state of Baja California Sur, 38 miles south of Santa Rosalia, at the mouth of Bahía de Concepción. In 2005, the reported population was 3,317.

Nestled between two hills in a lush tropic palm oasis divided by a shaded river that runs towards an estuary that flows to the sea, Mulegé is rich in history with lots of great sites to see, including the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, founded in 1705; the old state penitentiary, finished in 1907; and the Sierra de Guadalupe cave paintings.

Outdoor activities abound, from mountain biking, scuba diving and kayaking to deep

Municipal/Municipal Health Center / Issste.................................... 615-153-0298 Judicial Police............................................... 615-153-0049 Mexican Red Cross.......................... 615-153-0280 / 30110

enon unique to the La Paz area, blow from Bahia de La Paz keeping the temperature mild.

By Air, La Paz is served by Manuel Márquez de León International Airport with flights to the U.S., Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey. Two ferry services operate from Pichilingue outside the city, connecting the Baja California peninsula to the mainland at Mazatlán and Topolobampo.

By Road, La Paz is served mainly by two highways, Highway 1 that links the south of the state from Cabo San Lucas to the north of the peninsula until Tijuana, and Highway 19, which connects La Paz with the population of the South Pacific towns like Todo Santos and El Pescadero.

sea fishing. The cold northern current and the warm southern current come together to create an environment great for catching some of the 100 different species of fish in the Mulegé waters.

By land, Mulegé is 650 miles south of the San Diego/Tijuana border crossing on Mexican Highway 1, and in 2010, via Highway 5 through San Felipe.

By Air, Mulegé is served by three airstrips: Hotel Serenidad Airstrip (El Gallito), the Mulegé Municipal and Punta San Pedro. Regional flights are available at the Palo Verde Airport, and international flights are available at the Loreto Airport.

Municipal/Municipal

Fire Department............................................ 613-135-1566 Immigration.................................................. 613-135-1266

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) AIRPORT Loreto International Airport............................ 613-135-0565 Banks / Banco Bancomer..................................................... 613-135-0739 BUS Loreto Bus Terminal...................................... 613-135-0767

HOME DECÓR Gecko's Curios.............................................. 613-135-2505 Medical Ambulance................................................... 613-135-1566 Hospital........................................................ 613-135-0039 ISSTE........................................................... 613-135-0730 Red Cross..................................................... 613-135-1111 TOURISM Loreto Tourism Office.....................................613-135-0411 Tours/adventures Baja Tropicales.............................................. 615-153-0320 Mulegé Sportfishing...................................... 615-153-0482 Cortez Explorers............................................ 615-153-0500

Holland America Cruise Ship 2010 Schedule

February 8 • 10 a.m. – 11 p.m.

March 5 • 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.

March 30 • 8 a.m. – 11 p.m.

April 29 • 8 a.m. – 5 p.m

Municipal Delegation....................................615-15-3-0049 State Tourism................................................ 615-124-0199 Taxi Service.................................................. 615-153-0420 Traffic Department........................................ 615-153-0049

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

www.mexicolivingguide.com

7

{Welcome to baja} Al va

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Radio Antenna

Todos Santos, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur

The mission Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Todos Santos La Paz was founded by father Jaime Bravo in

LA PAZ DOWNTOWN La Paz, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur Loreto, founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionaries, was the first Spanish settlement on the east coast of the Baja California peninsula. Loreto, situated on the Sea of Cortez, 26º00’46” N 111º20’36” W, served as the capital of the province of Las Californias from its founding until the capital was moved to Monterey on February 3, 1777.

The 2005 census reported a population of 10,283. Today Loreto is a tourist resort, catering mostly to U.S. travelers, with daily flights from California arriving at Loreto International Airport. Many of the American tourists enjoy

fishing in “pangas” for “dorado” (Mahi-mahi or Dolphin Fish). Local restaurants will even prepare the daily catch of the tourists. Loreto has an excellent museum alongside the historic, but still active, parish. The Spanish Fathers found a steady spring of fresh water on this site.

Loreto’s climate is hot and humid, with abundant sunshine (desert with some rainfalls in summer). The medium temperature is 76 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperatures are hot from June through October. These summer days have highs around 93 degrees Fahrenheit and high humidity.

Municipal/Municipal

Police City Police......................................................612-122-4692 Green Angels.................................................612-125-9677 Fed. Judicial Police.........................................612-125-2665 Highway Patrol....................612-12203-69 & 612-122-5735 State Jud. Police.................612-122-6610 & 612-122-1399

Fire Department.............................................612-122-0054 La Paz Tourism Office.....................................612-124-0278 Museum of Anthropology...............................612-122-0162 Port Captain...................................................612-122-0243

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) FERRY SERVICE Baja Ferries....................................................612-125-7443 GOVERNMENT SEMATUR......................................................612-125-8899 Baja California Sur State Government.............612-124-0199 La Paz Post Office

8

Named “Pueblo Mágico” in 2006, is a small coastal town at the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains, on the Pacific coast of the Baja California Peninsula, about an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas and an hour south from La Paz. Located at 23°26´56˝N 110°13´32˝W, Todos Santos is very near the Tropic of Cancer in the municipality of La Paz. The population was 4,078 at the census of 2005.

During the 19th century Todos Santos thrived as the Baja sugarcane capital. Now the rich farmlands have been reworked and the town prospers from an abundance of avocado, vegetable and chili farming, papaya and mango orchards, fishing and ranching.

Municipal/Municipal Hospital........................................................ 612-145-0095 Mayor........................................................... 612-145-0365 Post Office.................................................... 612-145-0330 State Police................................................... 612-145-0198

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)

Medical Cruz Roja 065 or............................................612-122-1222 ISSSTE Hospital.............................................612-122-2789 IMSS Hospital................................................612-122-7377 Salvatierra Hospital..............612-122-1496 & 612-1221596 Real Estate services Omni Services...............................................612-123-4888

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

Art Galleries Contemporary Mexican Art..........................612-145-0215 Charles Stewart Gallery/Studio....................612-145-0265 Colores de Mexico......................................612-145-0106 Ezra Katz Gallery.........................................612-137-3473 Galeria Arturo.............................................612-145-0773 Galeria de Kathleen Gambogi.......................612-145-0460 Galeria La Poza...........................................612-145-0400 Galeria Logan..............................................612-145-0151 Galeria N. E. Hayles.....................................612-145-0183 Galeria On-ce Photography..........................612-145-0550 Galeria Wall.................................................612-145-0527 Jill Logan Galerîa..................... JillLogan2001@yahoo.com La Polilla................................................01-331-255-7965 Michael Cope..............................................612-145-0500 Wendy Faith, artist in glass..........................612-145-0255

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

1723. This mission contains the statue of the Virgin of Pilar, which is the focus of the town’s main festival in October.

More recently, there has been an increase in tourist activity and a boom in real estate development. Handicraft shops, art galleries, upscale restaurants, boutique hotels and restored colonial buildings have contributed to the gentrification and redevelopment of the town.

There are many beautiful beaches within a 30-minute drive. Playa Las Palmas and Playa Los Cerritos are great beaches for swimming and shell collecting, and Los Cerritos attracts surfers from around the world.

Shopping Cactus Arte Mexicano.................................612-145-0771 Casa Juanita...............................................612-140-0069 La Canada del Diablo Muebles Rusticos......612-140-0069 Curios Tony.................................................612-145-0356 El Perico Azul..............................................612-145-0538 Fenix de Todos Santos.................................612-145-0808 Galeria Santa Fe..........................................612-145-0301 Mangos......................................................612-145-0451 Manos Mexicanas.......................................612-145-0538 Ricky Ricardo's Home Furnishings..............612-145-0379 Regalos Diana-Dos Glorias..........................612-145-0324 Uguet Tiles and Marble................................612-127-2776 Hotel California Emporium...........................612-145-0525 Real Estate King Y Asociados........................................624-151-5840 Amerimex...................................................612-145-0050 Maya Roca.................................................612-145-0464 Milagro Real Estate.....................................612-145-0219 Moniely Real Estate.....................................612-145-0540 Pescadero Properties..................................612-145-0756 Ricardo Amigo Real Estate .........................612-145-0551

{Welcome to baja} ATM

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Paseo Malecon San Jose

Cabo San Lucas, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur Cabo Maritime Center

San Jose del Cabo, BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR San José del Cabo is located in Baja California Sur and is the seat of the municipality of Los Cabos at the south end of the Baja California peninsula. In the 2005 census it had a population of 48,518. Together with neighboring Cabo San Lucas it forms a major tourist destination for travelers, particularly from North America. The two cities are served

by Los Cabos International Airport.

San José del Cabo offers you tranquility and old world charm, wonderful gift shops showcasing the art of Mexico, fabulous restaurants, fishing, golf, surfing and all the

nighttime entertainment you seek. Or you can just relax on one of our many pristine white sand beaches.

For nature lovers, a beautiful protected estuary with a variety of fish, turtles, dolphins, exotic marine animals and over 100 species of birds is located on the southeast edge of the city. And the historic artist colony of Todos Santos is an easy one-hour drive to the north, along the scenic Pacific Ocean.

Local residents take pride in restoring the town’s 18th century architecture and preserving its quiet, laid-back ambiance.

Cabo San Lucas (aka Los Cabos or San José del Cabo in Mexico, and Cabo in the U.S.) is at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula at 22.88°N 109.90°W, in the state of Baja California Sur. As of the 2005 census, the population was 56,811. It is the largest community in Los Cabos, and the secondlargest in Baja California Sur. The warmth of the waters, the beauty of its beaches, the abundance of fish, the raucous party atmosphere, a resort studded Tourist Corrider that stretcuhes between the twin towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo in miles of pristine white beaches, and other qualities is quickly making Cabo San Lucas a highend vacation destination.

Municipal/Municipal Municipal/Municipal

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)

Medical Red Cross......................................................624-143-3300 Emergencies..................................................624-144-3434 Hospital.........................................................624-143-7777 Cape Air and Land First Response Ambulance .....................................................................624-143-5900 Centro Medico Cabo San Lucas.....................624-143-9727

DENTISTS Cabo Cosmetic DentaL................................624-143-0520

Police Police Cabo San Lucas...................................624-143-0057

Fire Department............................................ 624-143-9000 United States Consular Agency Emergency 24hrs.............. 619-692-2154 or 624-143-3566

ATM

Plaza de la Danza

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Mayan Resort Golf Course

Customs Office (Aduana)

Plaza Villa de Mexico (under construction)

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Ambulance........................ 066-624-142-0316 (Red Cross) Consumer Affairs (Profeco) La Paz 01........... 612-122-8088 Fire Dept............................................ 068 or 624-142-2466 Taxis......624-142-0580 or 624-142-0105 or 624-142-0401

BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) Police State Police....................................................624-143-0296 Highway Patrol...............................................624-143-3977 Federal Police.................................................624-143-1210 Medical Alcoholics Anonymous...................................624-147-5516

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

Cabo San Lucas has the largest Marlin tournament in the world. In the winter, pods of whales can be observed in the ocean bearing their calves in the warm waters.

Served by the Los Cabos International Airport for general aviation flights and air taxi service, the town is also a popular port of call for many cruise ships.

Exclusive hotels and gated residential communities attract the rich and famous in this wondrous region known as “The Corridor.”

Considered some of Latin America’s top resorts, many of these properties have become havens to Hollywood stars, Fortune 500 CEOs and even the U.S. president during the 2002 Asia-Pacific Economic Conference (APEC).

Ambulances...................................................624-143-4020 Social Security Hospital..................................624-143-1548 Health Center.................................................624-143-0102 Red Cross......................................................624-143-3300 City Chamber of Commerce..................................624-143-0437 Family Protection...........................................624-143-0586 Gas Leaks......................................................624-143-1292 Marine Harbor Master................................................624-143-4771 Police Federal Highway Police..................................624-146-0573 Municipal Police.............................................624-142-0361 Police San Jose del Cabo...............................624-142-0361 Traffic Police..................................................624-142-3748

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

www.mexicolivingguide.com

9

{Welcome to baja}

TA K F R E E EO NE

No. 29 -

October

/ octubre

No. 31

dero

ide.com

September / septiembre

s & Ente

e.com

AL MEDICISM R

20 de Noviembre

a Paz

San Jo

■ Mexic o: Next Pow Gold’s Player erhouse

in Mexico

slEEping around in Baja & Sonora

Rosarito Beach

LillyAna’s

Kettle Corn (Malecon)

D’Groomer Dog Groomer

PDO Beach Bar

Tailhunters (Malecon)

La Bamba 50’s Diner

Rancho Otro

Los Gaviotas Hotel (right

Magañas Restaurant

Riviera Liquors

To the Top Elevators /

San Felipe Liquors

Rancho Viejo (Taco Stand)

Santa Fe Pharmacy

Tequilas /Toscano Pizza

Sundance

Gourmet (Off Malecon)

R.B. Hotel Coffee Shop

Sunrunner

Corey Tours (Off Malecon)

Baja Open House

YetMail

Gorilla's Grill Baja Challenge (Off Malecon)

>

Medio Camino Restaurant

San Ignacio

InCare Casa El Jardín

Rice & Beans Resturant

San Jose Del Cabo:

Baja Medix

Ignacio Springs B&B

Angel´s Touch Dental

Mulege

Los Barrriles

Hotel Serenidad

Baja Beach Invenstments

Hotel Hacienda

Home and Land of Baja

Ensenada

Gisela Talamantes Saenz,

Baja Country Club

Loreto

El Rey Sol Hotel

Coco Cabanas

C & G Builders

El Rey Sol Restaurant

Hotel Tipui

Bahia Real Estate

CasaMar Restaurant

Silver Shop

Baja Properties

Happy Pharmacy

La Daminana

Paraiso del Mar

Steven Dryden - contact

Loreto Islas

Coldwell Banker

Hotel St. Isabel

Tiburon Rentals

The Main Tourism

Rentals Loreto

Todos Santos

Gecko Curios

AmeriMex Realty

Dali's

Las Fuentes Bar & Grill

San Felipe

Alexander Real Estate

A.Paraiso Realty

Amor Property

Mita Gourmet

Coldwell Banker

Baja Nueva

El Dorado Motel

Vacation Rentals

Bar Miramar

Juice Guy

Centro Cultural

Botica Sagrado Corazon

Augie's

Jill Logan Galler

Casey’s Place

Mission Hotel

Charley @ south

Oasis Hotel

Cabo San Lucas

Chumpos Pizza

Desert Inn

Happy Endings

CSI

Trailer Park Rivia del Mar

Wild Canyon Adventures

Office (by the Pemex)

LLM Attorney at Law

Cabo Cosmetic Dental

Dr Jason El Pelicano

La Paz

Cape Realty

FatBoys

Hacinda del Sol

Restaurant Mi Casa

BAJA ACCOMMODATION BOOKINGS

Jackass

Land's End Realty (Malecon)

Doc wine bar

REVIEWS & RECOMMENDATIONS

La Vaquita

OMNI Services, Real Estate

Mama's Roal Cafe

BAJA EVENT TICKET SALES

(Malecon) A Service of Mexico Living 10

off Malecon)

Bobby’s Baja By the Sea

Rosarito-Ensenada

in the world, Los Barriles offers postcardperfect beaches and a couple of small, well maintained hotels ready to serve the needs of Baja travelers.

In addition to wind and water sports, Los Barriles is considered the Bill Fishing capital of the world. During the summer months the area offers exceptional fishing for Marlin, Sailfish, Dorado, Tuna and Wahoo.

BAJA BUSINESS DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE

■ The Origins of Ne Year’s Resoluti w Page 31 ons ■ Assis ted Liv ing in Me Health & Beauty xico ■ Bank ing Basic Page 25 s in Ba ja ■ Hell No, I Wo People & Voices n’t Go!

Consultorio Dental

LOS Barriles, BAJA CALIFORNIA Sur

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

2010

t

Get the Guide At:

Alternative Healthcare

Los Barriles is a quaint little town 45 minutes north of the San Jose Del Cabo Airport and 65 miles south of the La Paz Airport, and only a 90-minute drive from the hustle and bustle of Cabo San Lucas.

The consistent winds and beautiful, white sandy beaches make Los Barriles a hot spot for water and wind enthusiasts from late November until early March. One of the top Wind Surfing and Kite Boarding destinations

/ enero

RE INVE ST • RETI K • PLAY • LIVE • WOR

Baja Mart Whale’s Tail Deli

-Cabo se del

DOWNTOWN LOS BARRILES B.C.S.

January

rtainmen

Plus:

Ea tacos

■ Snork eling in the Un derwater Playgr ounds of Pacific Ba Sea of Cor ja & the tez

Click-On Mail

es

s Barril Calle Lo

ide.com

n Christm Mexidcaependence as in B n i day aja ting

ra d Sono

<-- L

icolivinggu

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orts Havoc on Baja Sur an Rep cieal a Wreak Spe Jimen rrican Hu

- www.mex

Baja New

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■ Holid ay Tradit ions ■ Unique Gift Ide as ■ Shoppi ng in Ba ja ■

Plus:

TOU of Americans ds Thousan r for Why are the Borde Crossing l Care? and Denta Medical

No. 32

2009

December colivingguide.com dicie - www.mexi mbre 2009 No./28

Baja New

. cent of U.S at 60 Per lth Care nce for -Class Hea e Health Insura Mexican ■ World abl off Unbeliev Foreigners rip Prices ■ ■ ures r! ced Yea pro a 0 ing ONLY $25 n after life-sav eve medical,

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EE E FR E ON K TA

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Hotel Mar de Cortez

p.

14–17

18–19

20–21

p. p.

NewS Calendar Feature

p.

22–23

’S R O T LE I D E NG A It’s

24

p.

People & Business Voices

25–27

29

28

30–31

Happy Anniversary!

February

“Carnaval” and Mexico Living’s Fourth Anniversary.

The first edition of your guide to the good life started as San Felipe magazine. Now, thanks to the vision, hard work and dedication of our publishers, John and Rachel Pack, the guide has grown and improved by leaps and bounds.

Their first anniversary was the premier edition of San

“

Subscribe and start receiving your personal copy of Mexico Living Weekly every Monday morning. Our weekly newsletter contains exclusive articles, current events, coupons and discounts to your favorite establishments and destinations, and much more.

distribution and added more fabulous writers to our already

”

amazing team of contributors.

they announced that the guide was expanding, not only in

what YOU wanted. Listening, John and Rachel found other

distribution area, but number of pages as well.

avenues to cut our costs while at the same time providing

Articles

So . . . hope you don’t mind . . . on your behalf, and

to our already amazing team of contributors. The guide is

the behalf of all our wonderful contributors, I would like

also, again, full color—with longer stories, more photos,

to wish John and Rachel a Happy Anniversary and thank

and exciting and informative articles.

them for providing us with an amazing publication.

Rachel’s team. They will never toot their own horn, but . . .

Never miss a month of your guide to the good life! Find all past issues, in addition to exclusive articles and community updates.

meaningful, informative and entertaining content.

increased distribution and added more fabulous writers

Personally, I am very proud to be part of John and

Community

Your place to share videos, audio, photos and stories about living the good life in Baja and Sonora. Join and get your own profile page, blog and unlimited media uploads.

John and Rachel, thank you for all that you’ve done and continue to do!

I will. Before working with John and Rachel, I had never

Calendar

had the opportunity to work with publishers so attuned to what the readers want, and am truly amazed at what they

Need something to do? Never miss an event or special occasion. Visit and get the up-to-the-minute scoop on what’s happening in your area.

have accomplished over the past year.

If you recall, at this time last year, they announced that the guide would become a paid circulation due to rising production costs. Well, that only lasted a couple of months.

P.S. As always, I’m interested in hearing from you, what

John and Rachel WANT to inform and educate, so they

you think of Mexico Living and any ideas or comments you

found another way to provide a fantastic guide – FREE!

may have to improve YOUR GUIDE TO THE GOOD LIFE.

We changed our format, even played with some black and

So, send your suggestions and comments to editor@

white pages; however, the black and white pages wasn’t

mexicoliving.info.

MEXICO LIVING Guide to Pacific Baja & The Sea of Cortez

U.S. Toll-free: (800) 395-9019 Ex.3 San Diego, CA: (619) 550-2730 San Felipe, BC: (686) 230-9933

Published by John Benjamin Pack Publisher/Editor John Pack john@mexicoliving.info Publisher Rachel Pack rachel@mexicoliving.info Editor Brenda Judy editor@mexicoliving.info

39

Mexico Living Weekly

included more cities, increased

became Mexico Living. And, on their third anniversary,

Over the past year, we have included more cities,

35–38

www.mexicolivingguide.com

Over the past year, we have

Felipe magazine. On their second anniversary, San Felipe

34

Find it OnLine

again—the

month of “love,” the unforgettable

32–33

p. p. p. p. p.

BLUES & ARTS Home & Fishing Classifieds ART Fiesta Real estate

p. p. p.

COOKING & Health Lodging Dining & Beuaty

877-LUVMEX1

Your one-stop Baja 411 resource for finding people, products and services in your area.

Mexico Living is a guide committed to promoting Northwest Mexico to the limits of our abilities and to provide a valuable resource to visitors and residents, while showing that Northwest Mexico is a great place not only to visit and play, but also to live and work—a place to call home.

Mexico City, DF: (558) 421-4027 Website: www.mexicolivingguide.com Email: info@mexicoliving.info

Regional Sales Manager Lisa Shannon, lisa@mexicoliving.info Regional Sales Associates – Baja California Norte Bill Maine, Associate Publisher, bill@mexicoliving.info Kris Clark, Marketing Associate, bajamexicoliving@gmail.com Eloy Miron, Marketing Associate, eloymiron@gmail.com Regional Sales Associates – Baja California Sur Rachel Pack, Publisher, rachel@mexicoliving.info Sean Harrington, Marketing Associate, seanmexliving@gmail.com

Distribution Regional, Carlos Durán San Felipe, Bill Maine, San Felipe

Mexico Mailing Address Mexico Living / Yet Mail, Etc. Ave. Mar de Cortez #1049, San Felipe, BC 21850

Writers Steve Dryden, Carlos Durán, Benjamin Eugene, Steven Forman, Tom Gatch, Rosie Glover, Bob Ham, Lynn Hamman, Stockton Hill, La Huerita, Lucy E. Jackson, Anita Kaltenbaugh, Graham Mackintosh, David Mandich, Dann Manz, Karri Moser, Penny Nask, Greg Niemann, John Pack, Rachel Pack, Rita Pizarro, Lynn Prince, Lisa Shannon, June Snow, Christa Thomas, Cai Tierra and Robin Waters

USA Mailing Address PO Box 9019, PMB#460, Calexico, CA 92232

Production Layout, Carolyn Sheltraw, info@csheltraw.com

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Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher. All contributors and advertisers assume responsibility and liability for the accuracy of their statements and claims. All readers assume responsibility for actions or decisions they might make as a result of reading this publication. We reserve the right to refuse any advertising.

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

www.mexicolivingguide.com

11

Steve Dryden, Carlos Durán, Benjamin Eugene, Steven Forman, Tom Gatch, Rosie Glover, Bob Ham, Lynn Hamman, Stockton Hill, La Huerita, Lucy E. Jackson, Anita Kaltenbaugh, Graham Mackintosh, David Mandich, Dann Manz, Karri Moser, Penny Nask, Greg Niemann, John Pack, Rachel Pack, Rita Pizarro, Lynn Prince, Lisa Shannon, June Snow, Christa Thomas, Cai Tierra and Robin Waters. .............

Featured Contributor: Graham Mackintosh

ic e In D e spe r at e Ne ed of A dv

e any advice you might have ld you think? I would greatly appreciat wou I ght thou I so , men can Mexi t You seem to know a lot abou . maybe you can answer. My to offer ask you a question that I am hoping other-To-Be —M We 31.

May cting a baby on boyfriend is from Mexico, we are expe together, etc. Ever ything was a relationship question have talked about marriage, moving in Dear Mother-To-Be, this sounds more like le people told me he coup a en sudd a of all then staff at Mexico Living , The good going really a “Mexican Men” question. ” He swears that she is rather than iend. girlfr ther “ano than happy to put it ding inclu more e ting we’r was chea are not relationship experts, but ht caug have I far So else. ne his ex, and that he is not with anyo readers. a couple lies already. I kind out to our e”? We have the people that have told me all this in do you have any advice for “Mother-To-B ers, Read , them ve belie I if that said he and it t e and contact information; however, of started to freak out abou leave purposely withheld her real nam to y read is he and him, and of ad inste then I can go be with them suggestions to editor@mexicoliving.info did not expect send your advice or and him in trust full had I ed start me. Before all this than happy to forward it to her. to believe one guy over we’ll be more anything, but now I guess it is just hard , Editor Judy enda —Br of Mexican men, what do three girls. So, with all your knowledge

Quo te of the Mo nth

Submitted by Ken Robinson

“You cannot legislate the poor into prosperity by legislating the wealthy out of prosperity.

What one person receives without working for, another person must work for without receiving. The government cannot give to anybody anything that the government does not first take from somebody else. When half of the people get the idea that they do not have to work because the other half is going to take care of them, and when the other half gets the idea that it does no good to work because somebody else is going to get what they work for, that, my dear friend, is the beginning of the end of any nation. You cannot multiply wealth by dividing it.”

A native of London, England, Graham Mackintosh first visited Baja in 1979. In 1983 he set out to walk around the Baja coastline. The 3,000-mile trip changed his life. He returned to England to write Into a Desert Place and received the “Adventurous Traveler of the Year” award. In 1997 he began a 1,000-mile Journey with a Baja Burro from the U.S. border to Loreto, visiting the missions along the way. In 2001, Graham spent four months in the Sierra San Pedro Mártir with two street dogs, which became the subject of his third book, Nearer My Dog to Thee. Marooned With Very Little Beer (2008), tells of his two months hiking and kayaking the second largest island in the Sea of Cortez—Isla Angel de la Guarda.

Graham now lives in San Diego. He gives slide shows on his trips, writes articles on Baja and has guided tourists south of the border on various tours. He is married to Bonni, a nurse, who shares his love for Baja and nature. www.grahammackintosh.com 12

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

—Adrian Rogers, 1931

he Go t n o e d i Gu

Mexico Living, the guide to the good life, is now being served with meals in Italy.

Have a humorous or creative picture of you and your guide to the good life? Email your photo to editor@mexicoliving.info and show the world!

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Submitted by Dottie Leeper, La Mision

Mexico Living is only possible through the continued contributions from all these knowledgeable and talented people. If you would like to become a contributor, email mexicoliving@gmail.com.

Reader Connection

You can retire in:

Geo g r a phy Le sson for Re tire e s

Contributors

• Phoenix, where the four seasons are: tolerable, hot, really hot and ARE YOU KIDDING ME! • California, where you can make over $250,000 and still can’t afford to buy a house.

• New York City, where you think Central Park is “nature.”

• Maine, where sexy lingerie is anything flannel with less than eight buttons.

• The Deep South, where “He needed killin’” is a valid defense.

• Florida, where cars in front of you often appear to be driven by headless people.

OR You can retire in Baja, Mexico, where: • If you are not in the cartel, there is no crime.

• You not only know all of your neighbors, but you also know all of their pets.

• You can get a good lunch at a beachside restaurant for under $2.

• Your construction workers sing while they work and get paid $30 for eight hours of real work.

• Your property taxes are less than $100 a year.

• The daytime temperature is in the 70s with a wonderful ocean breeze.

I’ll give you five minutes to make your choice. THINK HARD!

EVERYONE has a funny or embarrassing story, joke or tidbit to share with the world. Send your jokes, tidbits, anecdotes, questions and “Guide on the Go” photos to editor@mexicoliving.info and put a bit of sunshine in someone’s day! All contributions may be edited for content and language.

OP-ED

S o . . . W h a t d o Yo u R E A L L Y T h i n k ?

What’s Up Gringos?

Mexicans have always been welcoming. For the majority of my life I have been coming to Baja and have always had wonderful experiences with the locals—they’ve always been helpful, always willing to lend a hand whenever I needed it. Even with my limited Spanish (ashamed to admit), they are friendly and willing to work through my Spanglish.

It used to be that the gringos I encountered in Baja were the same. Always friendly, as if we were a kindred spirit. It seems those days

are gone. What has happened to the gringos in Baja? They seemed to have changed over the years. Now it’s harder to get a gringo to wave as they go by, to help their neighbor or, as much as I remember it in the States, to even get to know their neighbors.

I don’t normally write these kinds of letters, but I have been seeing this more and more and it’s beginning to anger me enough to complain to you. This morning after a quick few hours on the water, trying to catch some dinner, I

loaded up my inflatable and started to back off the beach and got stuck. Wouldn’t you know that there were at least a half a dozen gringos walking the beach within 30 feet of my location. My wife and I started to do the usual to get out and were having some trouble, and not a single gringo offered to lend a hand. Luckily two Mexicans came by to sell us some silver, but coming off the water we had no money. But that was okay with them, they just sat the silver down and helped push us out of the sand.

Mailbag

of the dogs pissing on my tires and the shit in the yard, so I got me a rifle last year. I killed 27 dogs; and as far as this year—I got my first one today. I will try to break my own record.

I keep calling Mexicali for them to keep sending the trucks to pick up the dogs. If you want dogs, keep them in your yard or on a leash and out of public places. Not everyone likes your dogs and want them licking on them, thank you.

—Antonio

protection, because like me, many will consider you a “murderer.”

Please, rather than killing the dogs, in the future contact ZAPP, San Felipe Animal Rescue, Los Cabos Humane Society, Baja Dogs in La Paz, or one of the numerous other organizations. All of them will be more than happy to take the stray dogs, spay or neuter them, and find them loving homes.

Please, Don’t Change Mexico!

Mexico, as we know it as Mexicans, has always been a free country. We have the freedom of speech, and the freedom to do just about everything. We don’t need the Americans to come and degrade us by showing us how to exchange saliva with the dogs. I think that everyone that is civilized knows that dogs are always licking other dogs’ butts and penises.

Please take that back to the States!

We like you, but dogs can be a pain in the butt. We Mexicans keep our dogs outside, and you never see our Mexican dogs come up and lick your butt or crotch, and our houses never stink of dog like the American homes.

I have nothing against dogs. I live in a camp and I don’t have a dog, but a year ago I got tired

Antonio, we agree that people should keep their dogs in their yards, and we also believe people have the right to love their animals. As Americans in your country, we understand that we have some cultural differences, however, we are truly saddened by the way many dogs are treated.

I have withheld your full name for your own

     

Vehicle Permits

We just received your wonderful magazine the other day, but one thing that we would have to question you on, on the page “Welcome to Northwest Mexico,” it’s about the vehicle permits. I do know that in traveling in mainland Mexcio a permit is required, but we have never heard of a permit being required in Baja.

—Ken and Jane Buckley

The opinions are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher or editor.

Opinions are published to allow you, the reader, to decide.

I don’t know why the gringos failed to offer support to another gringo, but it is almost par for the course. As a gringo, I would like to ask other gringos in Baja: DON’T BE JERKS. Keep the attitude in the States and try to take a lesson from the Mexicans and help thy neighbor.

I don’t know if others have had a similar experience or felt the same, but I appreciate the opportunity to vent.

—Dennis Petterson, Baja Sur

Ken and Jane, thank you for being so observant and emailing us. The vehicle permit used to be on the books for Baja Sur, when driving from Baja Norte, but it was rarely enforced or mentioned. We don’t believe it exists any longer and we removed it from the Welcome section as of the January edition.

The Gypsy Journal

Dear John and Rachel, congratulations on your son’s wedding! Your story, which appeared in the November edition, about your journey had me white knuckled! I’m so glad you made it unharmed and your puppy was found!

– Nina Joy, Puerto Peñasco Nina, John and Rachel thank you very much for the kind words and are pleased that you enjoyed their story.

Us Send a k c b d ee F Sunrunner As always, we’re interested in your HONEST feedback. So, send your

a i lmay Cbe enter opinions and comments to editor@mexicoliving.info.M Letters edited for length and content. Make sure to visit us online or pick up a

New owners: • Internet  • Copy    Same Great Service   • Fax  Same Great Price   US Mailing Address • Shipping    Get a U.S. • Forwarding KM 178.5, Mailing • Stamps             r               Plaza Paraiso, e Mail Center Address San Felipe • Envelopes ers: •• Free New owners: Wifi Internet MENS T-Shirts ens • Copy & Fax Ron & Susie Stephens •• Shipping Copy Tanks ice Same Great Service The Rotary Club • Forwarding • Fax of San Felipe ice Same Great Price • Stamps LADIES ess Meets every US Mailing • Shipping T-Shirts Address Choose • Envelopes Monday 8 AM copy of next month’s edition to find out what othersRon REALLY THINK!Stephens & Susie

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s u o i r e t The M y s e c n a r a Disappe

of

t h g i r W n Kare

by Karri Moser

F

ebruary 12 will mark a very solemn anniversary for those who knew and loved Karen Wright. The one year anniversary of the 50-year-old Merced hairdresser’s disappearance finds her family and friends still reeling with questions about what exactly happened to her and who out there knows the answers. Finding those answers has led her family and friends down a road that has been peppered with road blocks, misinformation, frustration and still no idea where Karen Wright is. They are basically right where they all started the day they found out Karen was missing—still looking for answers and still holding out hope that Karen or whoever took her from them will surface.

The events leading up to the day Karen seemingly disappeared from the driveway of the new home she and her husband Randy Wright, Merced owner of RTS Towing, were building in San Felipe are as clouded in mystery today as they were when she was reported missing a year ago. Karen apparently drove herself from Merced down to the home she and Randy were finishing building as their eventual retirement home in San Felipe.

Karen reportedly called her mother on Monday, February 9, to let her know she was indeed in San Felipe. On February 10, Randy called neighbors to ask if they had seen Karen’s car in the driveway of the home. He said he could not reach her by cell phone or at the other home the couple had in San Felipe. Those neighbors saw the car but did not realize it was Karen’s.

Upon further investigation, they also found a note from Karen in their mailbox. The note, written on Monday, indicated that she was in town for a short visit until that Wednesday and would hopefully stop by again when they were 14

home. She provided no other details or information as to why she happened to be in San Felipe at that time. The phone call to her mother and the note in the neighbor’s mailbox are the last known communications anyone reportedly had with Karen Wright.

When Karen’s white Hummer, which was parked at the new house, was investigated by authorities, the windows were rolled down and her two treasured basset hound dogs, which she was very attached to, were inside. There was also food and water in the car for the dogs. By all accounts, Karen’s dogs were very important to her and the notion that Karen would have willingly left the dogs behind in the car outside of the house while she took off for good raises a great deal of suspicion and red flags of doubt for those close to her. There was no sign of a struggle or evidence pointing to anyone else being there. There has been no sign of Karen Wright whatsoever.

As it currently stands, there are no arrests in the disappearance of Karen Wright, but her husband, Randy Wright, is considered a person of interest.

Since she was reported missing by Randy on February 12, Karen’s soon-to-be ex-husband has had several brushes with the law relating to vehicles the couple owned. Randy, owner of RTS Towing in Merced, was arrested twice since Karen’s disappearance. Just one day after reporting her missing, Randy called the California Highway Patrol to report their Ford Explorer Sport Trac missing. The car was located in Butte County. The Merced County Sheriff’s Department had strong enough reasons to believe Randy was fully aware of the car’s whereabouts the entire time. Therefore, he was charged with filing a

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

false police report. He was arrested yet again for auto theft pertaining to the disappearance of a Mercedes that was eventually located at a female friend’s house in Mexico. The Mercedes was taken from the dealership where it was left for servicing.

While awaiting the outcome of these untimely brushes with the law, Randy Wright was identified as a person of interest in his wife’s disappearance. According to the accounts outlined in court documents filed by Karen before her mysterious disappearance, the 12-year marriage of Karen and Randy Wright was very troubled. Karen had filed for divorce in October. Court papers document her account of threats against her by her husband. She filed papers indicating he told her “He could kill her and nobody would know.” She also claimed in court documents that Randy was responsible for breaking her hand and “ripping out chunks” of her hair. Randy Wright has denied any of Karen’s

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Karen Wright, Modesto Hairdresser and parttime resident of San Felipe Baja California.

allegations of abuse. Randy also says that he had filed for divorce three times and that Karen never did.

Karen’s sister, Marcia Stewart, was familiar with the stories of abuse. Marcia described

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Karen as being “afraid for her life” when it came to leaving Randy. Family members believed Randy to be very controlling and describe Karen’s attempt to get away from him as slow but desperate. Marcia contends Randy was “manipulative and psychologically controlling.”

Karen’s sister says that during the course of the marriage, Randy limited her time with them and kept her isolated from friends and other family.

Marcia says Karen rented a storage unit that housed items she was slowly packing away in order to start her life over after she divorced Randy. Months after Karen’s disappearance, her family opened the storage unit.

Marcia describes the scene as indicative of someone slowly packing up their life. Marcia

around him anymore.” The question remains that if Karen rarely accompanied Randy to San Felipe and was never really a frequent part of his social life down there, why did she drive herself down there without a clear reason in early February?

In fact, lack of any evidence as to what led Karen to San Felipe at that time or why she would’ve driven herself is just one more suspicious aspect of this case. The contradictions of the picture of their relationship painted

by Karen’s family and that of the friends who knew Randy in San Felipe also Karen seen here with two Rottweilers, was very fond of dogs, especially her two raise more questions rather prized Bassett Hounds found in her Hummer the day she went missing than provide any insight as to what may have happened to Karen. The San Felipe says, “You could tell she was scared the way neighbors who socialized with Randy describe the stuff was packed in there. I just broke down a “class clown” persona of sorts who liked to when I walked in.” Her sister also finds it difficult have fun but did not go overboard. They also to understand or believe that Karen did, indeed, describe Randy as a man who “was a very hard drive herself alone to San Felipe without telling worker, he took very good care of his property anyone why she was going. Marcia says, “She and possessions.” According to Karen’s sister, “Randy could be quite charming but could also wouldn’t have come down there alone.”

Neighbors and friends of the couple in San manipulate people and control the situation.“ The past disappearances of two other men Felipe contend that Karen was not a frequent visitor of the area and that Randy did make most associated with Randy Wright and RTS Towing of the visits without her. When they pressed the in December 1993 have also added to the spotissue as to why Karen did not come around light on Randy Wright as a person of interest in more, considering the couple would eventually Karen’s case due to particular similarities. Two call San Felipe their home someday, they say men listed in reports as tow drivers for RTS Randy explained Karen “seemed to be more Towing went missing from a Kmart parking lot comfortable with her dogs than with other on December 17, 1993. Steven Lombard, 33 people.” They also contend that their time with and Paul Armstrong 28, have never been found. the couple raised no suspicions of abuse or fear Lombard’s truck was found in the parking lot with the windows down, keys in the ignition and playing a part of the relationship.

At the time she disappeared, Randy and Karen coffee inside. There was also no sign of struggle, Wright had one completed home in San Felipe foul play, or any evidence left behind. Much like in addition to the one they were in the process the disappearance of Karen Wright, the vehicle of finishing. There was every indication that they with windows rolled down and items still inside is intended to retire and live in San Felipe full time all that remains behind from occupants that have before divorce came in to play. Hal “Paco” Clark, never been seen since. Randy Wright was quesSan Felipe friend and neighbor to the couple, indi- tioned in the case of Lombard and Armstrong, cates that Karen spent a great deal of time and but was never charged with a crime. Randy also effort on decorating the first home and it turned feels he has been unfairly linked to these disapout much to her liking. Yet, the second home was pearances and says only one of the men worked entirely different. He says, “She just didn’t seem for him at the time of their disappearance.

Just as with the case of the missing RTS to show any interest.” As to Karen’s seemingly lack of interest in the new home or trips to San drivers, Karen’s case has been upgraded from Felipe when Randy would go, Marcia believes, a missing person’s case to a homicide investi“She just deep in her heart didn’t want to be gation. Sgt. Jason Goins of the Merced County Sheriff’s Department confirms the homicide investigation is still an open case and cannot Randall Wright, Karen’s husband and “Person of comment on any new developments. He also Interest” in Karen’s disappearance.

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cannot disclose what may have led authorities to upgrade the case to a homicide investigation. He says, “We have been working with Mexico officials and can’t discuss any developments.” He confirms Randy Wright is still a person of interest in the case. As for Wright’s other legal infractions since his wife’s disappearance, Wright’s perjury charge was dismissed. According to Sgt. Goins, Wright pled guilty to grand theft in relation to the Mercedes and the sentence is pending.

As for the San Felipe residence that was to be a dream retirement home for the Wright’s, it stands in limbo. Neighbors who live directly next door and were looking forward to having the Wrights as neighbors before Karen’s mysterious disappearance say the house stands mostly finished but untouched since the investigation began.

Bobbie Stout has lived there for over seven years and still considers the neighborhood to be one of the safest places she has ever lived despite the disappearance of Karen. At the time of the disappearance, Stout and her husband were away in Washington and received word of Karen’s unknown fate through an email from Randy.

They last saw Karen in August. Their reaction to the news of their soon-to-be neighbor’s disappearance from the driveway next door left them feeling “shocked.” Even though they did not consider themselves very close to Karen, Bobbie Stout says, “I know Karen absolutely adored those dogs and her family enough to ever believe she would disappear on her own.” Stout sees it as “a huge shock that someone may have gone missing in our neighborhood.” They have been saddened by the whole situation.

During the initial weeks of the investigation, Stout noticed “24-hour police coverage of the house.” She adds that no one is currently allowed on the property and they have no idea what will eventually become of the home. Randy has not returned to the area as far as they know. They have been told they need to inform authorities if they do notice any activity or see anyone on the property. As for the Stouts who are left living right next door to perhaps the last place Karen Wright was known to have been, Bobbie Stout says, “It is just sad to look over there now.”

Even though the investigation is now a homicide and remains an open case according to the Merced County Sheriff’s Department, some in her family believe there has not been enough done to find out what exactly could have happened to Karen. Marcia Stewart says she is “livid” about how the case has been handled from the beginning. Marcia points to the journey Karen made from Merced to San Felipe. Marcia says “ATM records, cell phone and credit card records were not checked out until four months later.” She also does not understand why border checks and surveillance from any places Karen may have stopped at have not been sought out and made public to help trace her whereabouts during the trip and maybe uncover a specific timeline.

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

www.mexicolivingguide.com

15

{News}

Tony Reyes Memorial

“The Mysterious Disappearance of Karen Wright” cont.

After a long battle to keep his failing kidneys going, Tony Reyes, 86, surrounded by family and friends, passed away on December 18, 2009.

His loss will be felt deeply by those who knew and respected him and his contributions to Baja and fishing communities.

For over half a century, Tony and his son gave avid and novice sportfishermen the chance to conquer the seas. A force of nature, Tony was loved and respected by every angler he came into contact with. As proprietor of Tony Reyes Fishing Tours, he gave the average citizen a chance to experience life on the high seas and earned the admiration of generations of fishermen who knew him.

black and white photographs that show Tony proudly displaying sharks and yellowtail catches that amaze even the most seasoned fishermen.

Tony enjoyed taking many sportfishermen out to enjoy the riches of San Felipe, Mag Bay and the Midriff Island Region for decades. From March through November, Tony Reyes Fishing Tours would end up hosting hundreds of fishermen each season.

In his later years, he handed the job of skipper over to his son but still remained a treasured part of the fishing community. He thoroughly enjoyed handling the business side of Tony Reyes Fishing Tours and was a local celebrity of sorts when he would go to the Southern California Fred Hall fishing tackle shows each year.

There are plans to spread Tony’s ashes around the area he loved and called home. He will be remembered not only as a legend and giant in the local fishing industry, but also as a man who helped countless individuals explore the seas and live out their own adventures.

Tony Reyes at the 2007 San Felipe Shrimp Festival reading San Felipe magazine, three months before we changed our name to Mexico Living.

New Baja Tourist Police Force Scheduled For Spring Launch

by Ron Raposa

Rosarito Mayor Hugo Torres speaking at the Baja Metropolitan Tourist Police graduation.

16

Born into poverty as one of 13 children, Tony bounced around and dabbled in virtually every industry and job field until finally answering the call of the sea in the 1950s. As a deckhand in San Felipe, Tony learned the ways of sea navigation and fishing. He began taking small groups of tourists out for day excursions then eventually took them out for several days. These early trips earned him the reputation of a knowledgeable seafarer and adventurous hard worker. He so impressed those early tourists that they found themselves investing in his dream and encouraging him to expand the flourishing business.

Starting with one boat and no outboard motor, Tony would diligently row four miles each way to take tourists to the best fishing spots.

He soon had hoards of customers booking advanced adventures with his tours. He became a successful businessman and a fishing legend at the same time. With pictures to prove his conquest, Tony was known for reeling in some of the largest and most spectacular catches ever known in the Sea of Cortez. There are many

Tony Reyes (left), with “Papa” and Chi Chi Fernandez with a gigantic totuava near 300 pounds in weight, Bahía San Luis Gonzaga, c. 1954.

Photo by Barney Thompson/MexiData

According to Marcia, she has not known of any active search for her sister and feels authorities wasted precious time when Karen was first reported missing. She expresses dismay and anger that the case has not progressed much and has not been talked about publically as much as she believes it should be. She claims attempts to get the word out through the media have been “shut down” by authorities and adds she feels “stonewalled” in her attempts to find answers for herself and her family. Marcia Stewart does acknowledge that there may be more investigating going on behind the scenes but has reached a point of absolute frustration over the pace of the investigation and the lack of any answers. Having her sister gone for a year and having no one arrested in connection to the disappearance has been very difficult for the entire family.

Marcia says Karen Wright was known to her family as a gentle soul and a little girl at heart.

Her sister has very fond memories of the girly girl she remembers from their childhood. Marcia describes her as “adorable” and believes someone out there knows the truth of Karen’s fate. She and others close to Karen have found the passing holiday season, the first Christmas since Karen’s disappearance, to be extremely difficult. Marcia says, “She is the first thing on my mind when I wake up.” She so wanted to believe her sister would return or contact her during the first few months that she took it upon herself to keep paying Karen’s cell phone bill just in case.

The friends of Randy’s in San Felipe also held out the same hope in the beginning by finding comfort in the idea that due to their marital issues, Karen may have taken off to start a new life and was ultimately fine. However, with each passing month, those close to Karen and Randy see those explanations as more of wishful thinking rather than a logical reality. They all find the hope of Karen out there safe, harder and harder to come by. Marcia adds that the mystery of Karen’s disappearance “has devastated me.”

She also adds, “I pray every day for Karen’s safe return.”

Marcia Stewart and others say they hope closure will come someday when they find out where Karen is and they can bring her home.

There is currently a reward being offered by her family for any information that may result in finding Karen.

As to who or what lured Karen Wright from her car in San Felipe and away from her beloved dogs . . . Marcia says, “When it all unfolds, Karen will come home. Someone knows what happened to her and I’m not going to give up on finding her.”

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

A new Baja Metropolitan Tourist Police force is scheduled to begin patrolling between Tijuana and Ensenada in April, in time for the busy spring and summer visitor season.

Twenty officers who, in turn, will train 90 or more to be part of the force were recognized at a December 18 graduation ceremony at the San Diego Police Department, where they received a special one-day course.

“I’m confident that this relationship will enable us to expand tourism opportunities on both sides of the border,” San Diego Mayor Jerry Sanders told an audience of officers, mayors and representatives from both the Mexican and U.S. consulates.

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The Metropolitan Tourist Police will join with other agencies in patrolling parts of the 70-mile tourist corridor. They will offer special assistance to visitors and also can issue bilingual traffic tickets that can be paid from the U.S. Rosarito Mayor Hugo Torres said the special force will help visitors feel more comfortable and welcome in the popular tourist region. Rosarito has had its own 30-member tourist force for two years and it has been well received.

Tourist police officers will have special uniforms and vehicles. Additional preparation and training will take place between now and the spring launch.

{News}

Around Town in Loreto with Lynn Hamman

Mike’s Bar new owner Brenda Calger

Mike’s Bar originally opened in 1986 as a fish taco stand and later named Playa Blanca Restaurant and Bar. Owner Mike Herrera changed the name July 4, 1992, to Mike’s Bar . . . oh, but aren’t we going to have fun with that date!

However, Mike passed away in 1997 leaving the establishment to his daughter Irene Herrera.

Located in historic downtown Loreto, Mike’s Bar is a tradition for locals and tourists to frequent.

A new management team of long-term resident Brenda Calger (you heard me right!) and business partner Brant Roshinsky closed the bar for two weeks for minor renovations and re-opened on January 15. Brenda and Brant will strive to make this popular landmark bigger and better than ever.

Watch out Super Bowl . . . here we go!

La Mision Hotel presented a fabulous New Year’s Eve night to ring in 2010. With approximately 150 people in attendance, Mexicans, Americans, Canadians, Italians, Brits, etc., the food, drink and dancing was enjoyed by all. The new bartender is the friendly and familiar face of Marcos. Maria Gamez, Events

and Wedding Coordinator, promises more of the same for special events during 2010.

They’re back! Cuatro Altos is open once again with new management. Luis Fernandez is no stranger to the foreign and local community of Loreto. It’s promoted as a “sports bar” with televisions, a large bar and great kitchen.

Cava and Petite Cava has opened on Hidalgo.

Owner Hector M. Du Solier has already made an impression on the locals and tourists alike. His wine cellar consists of wine/spirits from around the world and are reasonably priced. Tapas and a small dinner menu can be ordered at any time.

Since they recently participated in the Paella Competition in Loreto and did quite well, Paella is offered on Saturdays and Sundays. Petite Cava is a different and welcomed restaurant flair for Loreto.

Heineken to Acquire Mexico’s FEMSA Beer Business

San Felipe Animal Rescue Does it Again

by Marilyn McCartney

San Felipe Animal Rescue (SFAR) has been around since 2002 and has made a significant impact on the animal overpopulation in San Felipe.

One of SFAR’s major goals is “controlling the animal population of San Felipe through spay and neuter clinics.” SFAR works with Dr. Antonio Solis and he supports weekly spay and neuter clinics at his clinic in San Felipe for people who could

not otherwise afford the surgical intervention.

In addition, SFAR has conducted many free spay and neuter clinics over the years. The most recent one was held in December 2009 at the Las Minitas Animal Shelter. During the two days of this free clinic, SFAR hosted four visiting veterinarians and eight veterinarian assistants.

This hard-working group of professionals plus

a cadre of equally hard-working local volunteers spayed or neutered over one hundred dogs and cats. So often, these animals have underlying health problems, are poorly nourished, etc., when they are brought to SFAR, so surgery and especially anesthesia can be a particular challenge. Fortunately, during this weekend, every animal recovered and was discharged in good condition.

As was pointed out, this was a FREE clinic.

But that’s free to the people who bring in the animals. Conducting one of these clinics involves a significant expenditure. SFAR depends on donations and support of its fundraising events for its survival.

To make a donation or for more information about San Felipe Animal Rescue, visit www.sfanimalrescue.org.

New Year’s photo

December was Fiesta Central in San Felipe.

Desert Mothers held a fundraising event at the Pavilion featuring artists and classical music.

This fundraiser was to benefit the Desert Mothers Artist Project, teaching local women how to paint, make home decorations, and many other lucrative projects for sale. Contact Donna

Roberts for information about this project.

The Lions Club held a Jail Cell Jingle fundraiser on the Best Corner in Town outside of FatBoys.

Local residents were “arrested” and put into the cell and had to call friends to “bail” them out! A great success, raising money to help Sonshine Hacienda. That same evening, the Parade of Lights traveled the streets of San Felipe tossing candy out to the kids. The parade ended at the Malecon center where Casa de Fe held a raffle to raise money for the orphanage project. Raffle items included a Wii game, laptop computer, and a 32” flat-screen TV! Fiestas all over town for New Year’s Eve celebrations included standing-room only at the JollyMon, featuring Agave Blues; Lighthouse with a special dinner menu, featuring Tavo’s Revolution; PDO’s Beach Bar & Grill, also with a special dinner and featuring Mac and Nan’s Karaoke; the Pavilion celebrated a New York

midnight, also with a special dinner and San Felipe’s Voted Best Entertainment 2009 Denny Flannigan (but not a Name That Tune event). I did not get all the party reports, so I apologize if I’ve missed anyone.

Los Arcos Happy Jackass, FatBoys, JollyMon, Fandangos, PDO’s Beach Bar, and more I’m sure, are hosting Super Bowl Sunday on February 7.

Check out the Mexico Living Community Calendar for details about each party.

And don’t forget Valentine’s Day! Look for romantic dinner specials around town and online.

Jail Cell Jingle

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Photo by Shirley Moore

Photo by Lisa Shannon

¿Qué Pasa San Felipe?

In further signs of an improving economy, corporate dealmaking continues to pick up steam. Heineken N.V. (“Heineken”) announced on January 11 that it will create a major new platform for growth by acquiring the beer operations of Fomento Económico Mexicano, S.A.B. de C.V (“FEMSA”) in an all-stock deal.

FEMSA makes Dos Equis, Sol, Tecate and other Mexican beer.

Heineken will acquire FEMSA Cerveza, comprising 100 percent of FEMSA’s Mexican beer operations (including its U.S. and other export business) and the remaining 83 percent of FEMSA’s Brazilian beer business that Heineken does not currently own.

As a result, FEMSA will hold a 20 percent economic interest in the Heineken Group.

A portion of the Heineken shares allotted to FEMSA will be delivered over a period of not more than five years. FEMSA will have the right to appoint two non-executive representatives to the Supervisory Board of Heineken, one of whom will be a Vice Chairman of the Heineken N.V. Supervisory Board and will also be appointed to the Board of Directors of Heineken Holding. Heineken Holding will maintain its 50.005 percent stake in Heineken N.V. Based upon the Heineken N.V share price of €32.925, as of January 8, 2010, the implied equity value of FEMSA Cerveza is US$5.5 billion. Including net debt and pension obligations of US$2.1 billion, the total implied enterprise value for FEMSA Cerveza is approximately US$7.6 billion.

The acquisition delivers compelling strategic benefits globally and transforms Heineken’s presence in the Americas.

The transaction is expected to close in the second quarter of 2010, and is expected to be earnings per share accretive after two years and to deliver positive economic profit after six years.

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

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Please tell them you found their event in Mexico Living.

IMPORTANT DATES Feb 1: Constitution Day (MX) Feb. 2: Día de la Candelari/Groundhog Day. The midway point between the winter solstice and spring equinox.

Feb. 5: Constitution Day. Banks are closed (MX).

Feb. 7: Super Bowl Feb. 10–16: Carnaval Feb. 14: Valentines Day (U.S.) Feb. 14: Friendship Day/Día de Amistad (MX) Feb. 15: Flag Day (Canada) Feb. 16: Presidents Day (U.S.) Feb. 17: Feast Day of San Antonio de Abad (MX). A Mexican religious holiday during which the Catholic Church allows animals to enter the church for their blessing.

Feb. 17: Ash Wednesday Feb. 24: Mexican Flag Day/Día de la Bandera (MX) Mar. 8: Daylight Savings Time begins (U.S.) Mar. 9–Apr 12: SPRING BREAK Mar. 15: Anniversary of the birth of Benito Juarez - National Holiday (MX) Mar. 17–23: Holy Week Mar. 17: St. Patrick’s Day (U.S.) Mar. 21: Benito Juárez’ Birthday

LOCAL WEEKLY EVENTS See the Community Calendar on www. mexicolivingguide.com for a weekly schedule of events for each city.

ROSARITO BEACH Feb. 2: The Flying Samaritans Ladies Luncheon Society at noon at the Las Rocas Hotel and Spa. Donation: $15dlls.

More info: Susan Smith at MX (661) 100-6066, US(858) 240-2360. All proceeds benefit The Flying Samaritans, Rosarito Chapter.

Feb. 19–21: Rosarito Theatre Guild Presents Shirley Valentine. Starring Amy Chankin, written by Willie Russell and directed by Craig Schaefer at the Olde Vic Theatre. Fri. and Sat., 7 p.m.; Sun., 2 p.m. Reservations, call Patrick Farrell at (664) 631-2359.

Feb. 18: Portofino Restaurant Pairing Dinner. $38, 7 p.m. at the Hotel Festival Plaza. Reservations required. U.S. (800) 453-8606 18

Baja’s Biggest Carnavals

by Benjamin Eugene

Celebrated the week prior to Ash Wednesday and normally lasting a little less than a week, Carnaval (Spanish spelling) in Mexico has a long tradition dating back to the nineteenth century.

Coming from the Latin word Carnavale, meaning “goodbye to the flesh,” Carnaval refers to the week before Lent (Cuaresma), where carefree abandonment and indulgence are encouraged.

Beauty Queens and Burning Moods, what else can you ask for?

Kick-off begins with the burning of El Mal Humor (Bad Mood), in which an effigy, usually modeled after an unpopular politician of the day, is hung and burned, followed by a flurry of confetti and fireworks. This gives commencement to nearly a week of festivities in some of Mexico’s most popular coastal cities.

Host cities celebrate all sorts of parades daily, depending on the local carnaval’s theme, which differs from region to region. Parades display an array of floats decoratively inspired by Mexican scenery and normally featuring bright flowers and live entertainment. Some parades require an entrance fee, and visitors are advised to get tickets to the parade as soon as they can through the local tourist office or hotel.

Ensenada Carnaval 2010 “Fiesta Mitológica de los Dioses” February 11–16 Parade’s Route: Ampliación Boulevard Costero. Organizers: Patronato Ensendadense de Eventos Especiales. Phone numbers: (646) 1740394/(646) 204-2993.

This year more than 600,000 visitors, both local and foreign, are expected during the Ensenada Carnaval 2010. The event will feature traditional events such as the floral games, a children’s painting contest, food events, a chess tournament, lots of outdoor fiestas and and a cycling race.

Throughout the Carnaval route you’ll find lots of opportunity for food and snacks from local vendors selling tacos, and a variety of Mexican food and beer. You and your family can enjoy the many bands playing on corners and the endless people dancing in the streets.

Carnaval excitement will fill the air, along with confetti and cheers from the thousands of happy Mardi Gras crowds adorned with the traditional masks and necklaces.

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

Photo by E. Avilés

Send your calendar events to calendar@mexicoliving.info.

La Paz Carnaval February 11–16* Baja California Sur’s capital explodes into a wildly colorful party every year during La Paz Carnaval. Parades and food stalls selling meat tacos and shrimp pack the streets, Hispanic music stars perform live and there are fireworks and fairground rides.

In La Paz, Carnaval is a cross-cultural, crossdressing, free-for-all fun ride for all and everyone is encouraged to participate in the parades and dance under the stars at any of a dozen stages.

Public drinking is permitted, and drunks are quickly picked up by the vigilant police to spend the night in the tank, while other local authorities keep the streets safe and clean.

The annual carnaval held mid-February attracts tens of thousands to this town of 200,000

Streets of Ensenada during Carnaval

and the 2 kilometers along the waterfront Malecon (walkway) and the streets becomes a river of beer and tequila drinks, and beer tents and beer gardens with their own bandstands, D.J.’s and sexy cha-cha girls.

La Paz is known for incredible fishing, scuba diving and the island of Espiritu Santos, but others will say it’s Carnaval!

Other important carnaval destinations in Mexico include Mazatlan, Sinaloa; Guaymas, along the Sea of Cortez in Sonora; Tepic, Nayarit; Cozumel, Quintana Roo; Merida, Yucatán and Chamula, Chiapas, said to be one of the most indigenous festivals in the country. *La Paz Carnaval dates were not confirmed as of our publication date and are subject to change

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Mexican Constitution of February 5, 1917 February 5 is a national holiday to commemorate the Constitution of 1917—the legal document that embodies the ideals of the Mexican Revolution— which still governs Mexico today.

The Political Constitution of the United Mexican States of 1917 is the present constitution of Mexico. It was drafted in Santiago de Querétaro by a Constitutional Convention during the Mexican Revolution. It was approved by the Constitutional Congress on February 5, 1917, with Venustiano Carranzaserving as the first president under its terms.

The most important articles, 3, 7 and 13, displayed profound changes in Mexican political philosophy that would help frame the political and social backdrop for the rest of the century.

Article 3 (in brief): The education imparted by the Federal State shall be designed to develop harmoniously all the faculties of the human being and shall foster in him at the same time a love Mar. 27: Taco & Beer Festival. Join the festival with traditional tacos and iced beer.

(661) 612-0700

ENSENADA Feb.– Mar. 1: Painting Exposition. Mexicali artist Maricela Alvarado exhibits in Ensenada’s Centro Estatal de las Artes (CEARTE) 8 a.m.–8 p.m., Mon.–Sat., 11 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun. Free admission.

(646) 173-4307 or (646) 173-4308.

Feb.–Apr. 14: Guided Whale Watching Tours.

(646) 172-5444 Feb. 10–16: Carnival. The biggist party of the year in Ensenada.

Feb. 18: “Tierra de Gigantes (Land of Giants)” Auction Art Sale. 7 p.m., a fundraiser to help fight breast cancer. Info: Enrique Avilez, (646) 178-0140.

Mar. 26–28: RECORD Off-Road Series El Alamo 200 Off-Road Race. Motorcycles, ATVs and four-wheel vehicles challenged to a four-lap race on a 50-mile circuit course at El Alamo. Info: Ramón Castro, (646) 176-1637.

Mar. 27: 4th Annual International Blues & Arts Fiesta in San Felipe. Outdoor concert with nearly a dozen bands and numerous art exhibitors. General admission is $20dlls. (686) 577-3143 or U.S. toll-free 877-LUVMEX1.

SAN FELIPE Feb. 5: La Constitucion Aniversario de San Felipe—85 years

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of country and a consciousness of international solidarity, in independence and justice. Said education must be free of bias.

Article 7: This article states that no law or authority can “previously” censor the press, or ask for a bail to the authors or printers. The freedom of the press has its limits in respect to private life, morality, and public peace. Incarceration or censorship cannot occur before charges of “press crimes” can be proven, but it can happen when responsibility has been judicially established.

Article 13: There are no private courts (i.e., feudal or manorial courts) in Mexico. Military Courts martial cannot be used to judge civilians.

The Constitution of 1917 was drafted by men of high ideals; and even though it has been modified and changed many times throughout the years, it still remains the basis of Mexico’s current legal system.

Source: Wikipedia

Feb. 10–16: Carnaval San Felipe. Parades and events, lot of Fun! Feb. TBA: VIII Festival de la Paella Mar. 7: Club “Las Amigas” Poker Run. Starts at Rafael Navarro’s property north of the Ranch around Km 163. www.clublasamigas.com Mar. 12–14: 24th Tecate SCORE San Felipe 250 Desert Race. More than 225 cars, trucks, motorcycles and ATVs start and finish in San Felipe. SCORE International, (818) 225-8402.

Mar. 20–22: The Hobie Cat Midwinters West Regatta will be held at the El Cortez.

Mar. 20: The 4th Annual Caminata Contra el Cancer. 8 a.m.–noon, Arches to the Malicon. Stacy Dow, stacyg1@ sbcglobal.net Mar. 27: 4th Annual International Blues & Arts Fiesta. The Lion’s Club of San Felipe presents an extremely entertaining fundraising event that features numerous art exhibitors and an outdoor concert with nearly a dozen live blues bands from Mexico and the U.S. at the baseball stadium in downtown San Felipe. General admission is $20dlls. (686) 577-3143 or U.S. toll-free 1-877-LUVMEX1. www.bluesandarts.com Mar. 29: Charity Golf Classic at Caras de Mexico Golf Course—Cotuco.

MULEGE Feb.–Apr. 14: Whale Watching Excursions in Guerrero Negro, BCS. (615) 157-0100

LORETO Feb. 11–16: Carnaval. Loreto celebrates the big annual festival of Carnaval.

LA PAZ Feb. 11–16: Carnaval. La Paz celebrates the big annual festival of Carnaval.

Feb. 13: Home Decor and Art sale. Sherry Lee and Ceci Martinez present an open house in San Pedro, about 30 minutes from La Paz. Call Ceci at (612) 120-2766 or email sherryleeduncan@aol.com Mar. 28: Arts Festival. The Asociacion de Artes del Mar de Cortez presents the 17th Annual Festival of the Arts, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Rancho Buena Vista. Contact Joann at eastcapers@yahoo.com Mar.: The 4th Festival Pax International Festival of Art and Culture Features Africa.

For more information, email paxcultura@ hotmail.com.

LOS CABO Feb. 11–16: Carnaval. Los Cabos celebrates the big annual festival of Carnaval.

Every Thursday Night: San José del Cabo Art Walk along Obregon Street behind the church, sipping wine and viewing fine art.

5–9 p.m.

Feb. 27: Cabo Yacht Party. Sail aboard the Caborey for an unforgettable evening. www.caboyachtparty.com Feb. 28: Becas Ball. Annual benefit dinnerdance and raffle to raise funds for scholar-

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ships for Cabo San Lucas’s students in need.

Feb.–Apr.: Whale Watching Season.

Spectacular views of whales just offshore abound from October through April. Of the world’s eleven species of whales, eight come to Los Cabos to breed and nurse their young.

Mar. 13: Spring BajaHaHa Golf & BBQ with Moose, Pork, Beef. An East Cape Guild Event. Contact Frank and Margy Harper, (624) 142-8014.

Mar. 18–21: BajaShakespeare presents “Knight of the Mighty Rod.” tyfield1@ hotmail.com (Los Barrilles) Mar. 28: 7th Annual Festival of the Arts.

9 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Rancho Buena Vista.

Asociacion de Artes del Mar de Cortez, A.C. Contact Joann at eastcapers@yahoo.com

TODOS SANTOS Feb. 4: Photography Show opens in Todos Santos. Contact Vic Kirby, artistasdetodossantos@gmail.com. www. artistsoftodossantos.com Feb. 27: 16th Annual Todos Santos Historic Home Tour. 10 a.m.–3 p.m. Proceeds endow various programs and The Palapa Center. info@palapasociety.org Mar. 1–14: 6th Annual Film Festival (Cine de Todos Santos). azulgv07@hotmail.com Mar. 14: Artist’s Studio & Gallery Tour.

Fundraiser to benefit children’s art programs at both the Palapa Society and Escuela Pacifica. Contact: Diane Knight, dianekknight@hotmail.com

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{Feature}

Photo by Graham Mackintosh

Return of the Condor

Photo by Graham Mackintosh

as a “sky island” with many endemic species of plants and animals. The seldom visited park is a treasure for scientists, campers and backpackers alike. The wilderness experience is unrivaled.

There are no Yosemite-like lines or crowds, or vandalizing bears. No hunting, fishing or motor cycles are permitted. Towering white firs, Jeffrey pines, and sugar pines top the higher ridges.

Before the completion of the paved road, I have several times driven into the park and driven out days later without seeing anyone, except maybe the park ranger collecting the entrance fee, about US$4 a day depending on the exchange rate. An annual pass is also available, which covers entry to all Mexico’s national parks for less than $30.

In the summer of 2009, escaping the heat below, my wife, Bonni, and I spent a week hiking with our two dogs across the plateau, looking out across the canyons hoping to spot one of several California condors that have been released into these mountains. We saw and photographed all kinds of birds, insects and other wildlife . . . but no condors.

Driving back down to the west on a beautiful warm sunny day, we stopped at an overlook to walk the dogs, enjoy the silence, and take a

Photo by Graham Mackintosh

I have been visiting Northern Baja’s Sierra de San Pedro Mártir for 20 years, hiking and car camping among its dramatic canyons and magnificent open pine forests. The usual approach to the mountains is from the west, turning off Highway One near San Telmo, about 175 miles south of San Diego. Thanks to a newly completed paved road, what used to be a dusty, bone shaking, 60-mile ordeal is now a relatively painless winding ascent through the chaparral-covered foothills up into the pine trees.

Most of the old growth pine forest, which has never known widespread logging or fire suppression, is protected within Baja’s first national park. Founded in 1947, it ranges over 250 square miles. Mexico’s National Observatory, at the end of the paved road, stands on the edge of a vast canyon dropping 9,000 feet to the desert below.

Conditions are near perfect for astronomical observation with clear, still, nighttime skies free of light and atmospheric pollution. Across the canyon from the observatory is Picacho del Diablo (or Cerro de la Encantada) at 10,154 feet, the highest point in Baja California.

The often snow-clad Sierra San Pedro Mártir rises from its desert and chaparral surrounds,

Baja California. European colonization of the West Coast accelerated the decline. The last reliable sighting in Mexico was in the San Pedro Mártir in 1937.

And even in their last bastion in California, the species seemed to be heading for extinction. In 1987, a controversial decision was made to bring the remaining 22 individuals into captivity and initiate a captive breeding program.

Thanks to the unprecby Graham Mackintosh edented investment and to the dedication of staff at the San Diego Zoo, the Los Angeles Zoo and other few final pictures of the magnificent view. And agencies, the program was successful. Captive before we left our truck, we looked out to see bred condors were released back into the wild five condors perched on a little ridge just 40 or in California in 1992, and in Arizona in 1996. In 50 yards away!

2002 six condors were brought to the San Pedro The stats for North America’s largest flying Mártir. The Baja site was chosen because it was bird are well known and impressive: wingspan a pristine, protected area of the condor’s former over 9 feet, weighing up to 25 pounds, capable of range that could serve as a link between the U.S. soaring at 50 mph and roaming over 150 miles a populations. day. But knowing all that hardly prepares you for

By July 2009, the total California condor popuseeing these giant beautifully ugly carrion feeders lation was 356, which included 180 birds released close up. to or born in the wild. Sixteen were in the Sierra We wound down the windows and reached for San Pedro Mártir. Three more were released there our cameras. The condors seemed indifferent to in September 2009. The condor recovery program our presence. Each had clearly visible identificaaims to introduce up to eight condors each year in tion numbers and VHF/GPS radio transmitters Baja California until a calculated carrying capacity attached to their wings. After fifteen minutes, of 20 mating pairs is reached. they finally launched themselves into the air and If you are planning on camping in the Sierra circled above us, flashing their white underwings, San Pedro Mártir be aware that nights can be bitand sounding like gliders. terly cold, even in the summer, and in July and When condors were first reported in the acAugust dramatic midday thunderstorms are a frecounts of European explorers, the range of the quent occurrence.

“California condor,” which had once included much of North America, had (thanks to the exGraham Mackintosh is the author of four books tinction of the sloths, saber-tooth tigers, mast- on Baja California: Into a Desert Place, Journey with odons, camels, etc., on which they fed) shrunk a Baja Burro, Nearer My Dog to Thee and Marooned to just the west coast from British Columbia to With Very Little Beer. www.grahammackintosh.com

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February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

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The Ensenada Blowhole

La Bufadora Offers the Second Largest Waterspout in the World

Photo by ProveIt.

by Benjamin Eugene

La Bufadora is a marine geyser, or blowhole, located on the Punta Banda Peninsula in Baja California, Mexico. The name belongs to both the geyser and the small town where the blowhole is found. The name comes from the Spanish verb bufar, which means to snort or spit. The literal translation would be “The Snorter,” although I would perfer “The Spitter” if that were a real word, because this blowhole can spit high into the air and spray the spectator.

The second largest blowhole in the world, La Bufadora can shoot upwards as high as 80 feet above sea level. This is an Ensenada tourist trap, but an absolute must-see for every Ensenada visitor. The spout of marine water occurs every minute and blows at various intensity into the air and onto the rocky cliff.

The geyser is created when ocean waves and air are drawn into an underwater cave located in the cliffside, and the trapped air and water then explode upwards. This interaction not only creates the upward-shooting spout, but a thunderous noise as well.

La Bufadora regularly draws tourists visiting Ensenada, the thrid largest city in the Mexican state of Baja California. The area features various restaurants, souvenir shops, a complete dive shop and a museum.

When you visit La Bufadora, whether with a local tour group or on your own, be prepared to

pass the gauntlet of vendors that line the length of a city block between the parking and the blowhole. Some of the vendors can be aggressive, but are harmless. So, have fun with it and always bargain, never take the first “deal,” or even the third of fourth. Bring pesos, and definitely bargain.

Get the price you’re willing to pay; if they’re willing to sell, you’ll both win and have fun doing it.

If you’re in a hurry to reach the blowhole, just tell the vendors “no, gracias” (no, thank you), keep walking and they’ll not bother you. But if you’re interested in searching for the the treasure you didn’t know you needed, take some time to browse the various vendors. You’ll be able to find many of the usual trinkets like a bracelet with your name woven into it, or a grain of rice with your name on it, a poncho, T-shirts, pharmaceuticals and the ubiquitous Chiclets. You’ll also find quality leather goods, some handmade jewelry, home and yard decor, cigars, any many other Mexican crafts.

The restaurants offers an excellent selection of seafood and Mexican cuisine and FREE clean bathrooms. The public bathroom is 50 cents.

Don’t forget to try the famous “churros,” which is a flour stick deep-fried and rolled in sugar.

La Bufadora cove also offers great diving and kayaking, and the peninsula offers great hiking, bike riding and exploring. Be sure to take a camera and comfortable shoes. In the winter bring warm clothing.

Photo by Nancy and Larry Oakesn

La Bufadora

Punta Banda, La Bufadora

La Bufadora is located approximately 20 miles south of Ensenada. To get there, take the Transpeninsular highway 1 to Maneadero. Watch for the large green highway sign and follow the smaller road west all the way to La Bufadora, at the end of the Punta Banda Peninsula.

Along the way farmers grow garlic, tomatoes, chiles and other table crops. The road is paved

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and curves around Ensenada’s enormous bay and provides a beautiful panoramic view of the Ensenada Bay and Todos Santos Island. Along the side of the road people sell jars of green olives, olive oil, pickled vegetables, imported coconuts and homemade tamales. This is definitely something to see when visiting Ensenada.

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

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Centavo’s Two Cents

Community Building

{People & Voices voices}

Happy Valentine’s . . . love and best wishes from Centavo!

Slow Down, You Move Too Fast . . .

by La Huerita

by Penny Nask Any time you go to a new place, especially when you retire, there is always a bit of apprehension about finding things that you need. In a foreign country it is especially difficult because you don’t know the language; and even if the most basic words are helpful, they can still get you in trouble.

I took an eight-week course in Spanish before I moved to Baja. The teacher was an experienced miracle worker. We chose one night a week for three hours as the key to being bilingual. The class became confident. We were able to read and write in Spanish. We proudly stood up and recited, and pronounced correctly, a bevy of words that we could turn into simple sentences.

That was then. This is now.

It is just not safe for me to attempt Spanish in San Felipe, although I have tried. If I sound good with the basics, too much is assumed by the locals and I get trapped into responding to answers I barely understand. There are cognate words in Spanish that sound similar to English, but you can even slip up on those and get the wrong meaning. Too risky.

I find that smiling, and creating gestures that would satisfy a mime, usually gets my point across. You can become fearless in this process, and it’s one that I am almost a pro. But I have disappointed myself.

There are also courses in Spanish locally, but I can’t seem to get myself to them. I was a teacher for so many years that the thought of going into a classroom situation after retirement . . . well . . . there are no polite words to describe how I would feel.

Certainly being remotely fluent in Spanish would be an asset in my desire to mix with the locals.

La Huerita on . . . Everything!

Centavo aka Pamela Esther Nask (“Penny”) Co-owner of Simpatico Arts, she is a writer and an art historian, whose luck in these fields has given her an early retirement. She attributes “laughter” as the best possible stimulus for life. pennynask@yahoo.com After a few years, most foreigners who move here do get involved in some sort of community service. We become members of clubs whose purpose is to make life better for those less fortunate. This is a time when language is critical. We must be sensitive to the fact that we are in a different country. Our assumptions about lifestyles or living conditions may be erroneous and we may never be able to understand or break through historical caste systems. Still, there is the effortless joy of community, the laughter that you can share just by watching and learning from those around you.

While Americans and other foreigners are building their homes along the California, Baja, strip, the indigenous peoples who have lived here for ages must make adjustments. We expect them to be willing participants in dramatic changes that we hope will make their lives better.

It is very difficult to blend cultures, to live side by side, to enter each other’s world in a quiet non-obtrusive way. It is worth the energy as I am finding out. It is, however, a slow process. You can’t take a crash course in community, much the same as you can’t take an eight-week course in Spanish to be fluent.

We like to go fast in the USA. Instant gratification is the relevant phrase. We drive fast, walk fast, talk fast (except in the South), must have cell phones and texting for fast communication, we even eat fast. We’ve got “fast lanes” on the freeways, “fast food” restaurants with drive-up windows for a “fast getaway,” fast Internet service via broadband, and even at restaurants the waiters will present the bill as soon as the food is served in order to help you get out of there fast so they can quickly get someone new seated at your table. We want everything RIGHT NOW, no waiting, no delay. Time is money!

Whew! I’m exhausted just thinking about it!

One of the most difficult things for gringos to adjust to in Mexico is the whole “time” thing. With some exceptions (like driving), going fast is just not important here. Life is too short to spend it going fast, especially since going slow can be so much more pleasant. And sometimes going fast is just plain rude.

Take the restaurant thing, for example. In Mexico you should not expect a waiter to zip by with the check the minute you’ve been served. It would be considered very rude for the check to be presented before you have asked for it. Even if they are very busy and really need the table, they will wait for you.

When you are ready to leave, catch your waiter’s eye and ask for the bill. Even then they usually won’t hurry . . . it would be rude.

Service in restaurants and bars is generally fairly prompt, but not always. I’m fond of recalling one incident in which my husband and I went into a local restaurant bar in La Paz, Baja Sur, that had a nice view of the ocean. We ordered Greyhounds (vodka with grapefruit juice) and some appetizers, enjoying the

El Caballo Blanco Bookstore Loreto BCS

Five years ago, after 15 years of Baja adventures, El Caballo Blanco moved their bookstore from New Mexico to Loreto. Wild natural beauty drew them to Loreto and friends helped them sink roots. The owners enjoy the best of all lives; fascinating people, new ideas from distant places, and neighbors who became family.

In El Caballo Blanco, browse the best Baja book selection. Thousands of used books fill the palapa room, with new Baja books, art and maps in the second room. They carry favorite things; art supplies, pottery, and fabric, comfortable chairs and their ever-ready coffee pot. Stop in for coffee and a chat; bring along this month’s edition of Mexico Living and receive a 10 percent discount on all items during the month of December.

22

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

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La Huerita An artist and writer, La Huerita and her husband operated an online travel magazine for nearly a decade— until they noticed they were doing more writing than traveling. Her philosophy: When it stops being fun, stop doing it. La Huerita now operates the blog Rocky Point Tides, and she’s having fun! lahuerita2@gmail.com fact that there wasn’t another single customer in the place. Well, the waiter kept plying us with appetizers . . . “On the house, senor!” . . . but the drinks never came. We waited and waited and waited, and just as we were starting to get annoyed, we spotted a young boy breathlessly rushing into the kitchen area carrying a bag of fresh grapefruit. Our drinks materialized almost immediately thereafter.

They didn’t want to say they couldn’t make the drink, you see, so they sent someone to the market to buy the ingredients . . . especially for us! And then gave us free snacks to compensate for the delay. How can you beat that? We subsequently enjoyed a very pleasant couple of hours there, and returned often.

Things often work that way in Mexico, and getting angry or frustrated at the pace is counterproductive to your enjoyment of life. My suggestion is to chill out, go with the flow, don’t get your knickers in a bunch.

Are you really in such a big rush to get through life?

Ah, Mexico! Where going slow is an art form. Slow down, man, and enjoy the ride!

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El Caballo Blanco Owners Alberto & Jeannine Perez 613-116-5374 New Baja Books Thousands of used Books Fabric, Art Supplies Paintings, Pottery, Paper Classes

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{People & Voices voices} John & Rachel Pack

by John Pack

“Only when we are no longer afraid do we begin to live.”

Photo byJohn Pack

—Dorothy Thompson

Gary & Patricia Hockett from Canada, now enjoying the good life in Baja

I have recently made new friends in La Paz and their story encapsulates this truth. Out of the fear of being trapped in a stressful job, my new friend Gary had enough and quit. He didn’t know what he was going to do, only it that it was time to overcome his fear and make a change. Together Gary and his wife, Patricia, decided to travel south from Canada into the United States. They purchased a truck, a trailer, an inflatable boat and hit the road.

Their travels took them from salmon fishing in Oregon to hiking in the majestic mountains of Utah; and continuing south, they traveled through Nevada to Arizona, visiting as many beautiful locals as they could. They took several months, all the while thinking they might eventually make it to Mexico. However, with every new stop and acquaintance, they would encounter the usual; “Don’t go to Mexico, you’ll be killed,” “Mexico isn’t safe,” “What! You don’t want to go there,

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it’s too dangerous,” “You’ll be arrested and rot in a Mexican jail”—it was always the same. The fear was everywhere. Gary and Patricia began to doubt themselves and believe what they were hearing; they too were beginning to fear what they might find in Mexico. North of Tecate, Baja, they stopped.

Was it true? Would they be in danger? Would they be at risk of rotting in jail, or losing their new truck, trailer and boat? Were these legitimate fears? They sat in an RV park and pondered.

Then one day they decided to walk into Tecate and have a closer look. They would stay on the main road, not drink the water or take any risks.

That day they made it to and from Tecate safely and decided they would go for it.

Still fearful of what could possibly happen, they packed up and drove into Baja, into the unknown. They drove and they drove . . . not stopping, not wanting to take any risks . . . they continued driving south past Ensenada, past San Quintin, past El Roasrio . . . they didn’t stop until they reached Guerrero Negro.

When Rachel and I met them, they had made it to “Hacienda del Sol,” an RV park north of La Paz, and they had been there a month. Gary had built a wonderful palapa, a custom outdoor kitchen with his BBQ and camping stove. They had planted a garden and had been exploring the Sea of Cortez in their boat; and as long outdoors and fishing enthusiasts, they had been catching fish like none they had before.

For them each day is a new adventure, a new

After marrying John & Rachel traveled the United States full time producing live events, until moving to San Felipe Baja to slow down. That only lasted a couple of months.

Since then they’ve dedicated themselves to sharing life in Mexico with the world. They have fallen in love with so many of you that they want you to join them as they explore the wonders of Mexico living.

view of paradise. “We passed so many beautiful things on the way down,” says Gary. “We have to see them on the way north,” Patricia would add. They are excited about visiting San Felipe and seeing the Blues & Arts Fiesta that Rachel and I have talked so much about.

They almost didn’t come to Baja. “We’re going to live here,” says Patricia, “we want to be in Baja. We took our time getting here, and feel much safer here than we did in the States. We want to live in Baja forever.”

“The Gypsy Journal” is our journal of the places and adventures Rachel and I encounter while traveling Baja. It’s an open diary of our love and life in this wondrous place, and nothing brings us more joy then when others see through the fear for the truth and come to find paradise.

For “Only when we are no longer afraid do we begin to live.”

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23

{Business & MOney Money}

Paying the Price!

S&P and Fitch Cut Mexico’s Credit Rating

by Lucy E. Jackson

For years, policymakers have avoided taking the necessary measures Mexico needs to fix its tax system and reduce its dependence on oil.

Now, the country is paying the price! On December 14, Standard & Poors became the second rating agency, in a three-week period, to downgrade Mexico’s foreign-currency debt rating from BBB+ to BBB (Fitch Ratings’ downgrade came on November 23).

When President Calderón took office in 2006, he promised to boost economic growth and create jobs. However, he’s only been able to get Congress to approve small, incremental reforms.

During the July 2009 elections, Calderón’s National Action Party lost almost one-third of it seats in the lower house, while the Institutional Revolutionary Party more than doubled its seats.

That put Calderón at a serious disadvantage during the 2010 budget negotiations—Calderón was pushing for a 2 percent consumption tax, but Congress shied away from raising taxes in a

year when the economy is expected to shrink by another 7.5 percent and only approved a mere 1 percent value-added tax (VAT).

Mexico became a major world oil producer in the mid-1970s, and since then the country has been reliant upon petroleum revenues to fund government spending. Today Pemex, the staterun oil monopoly, provides more than one third of the government’s total tax income. However, oil production has dropped by nearly 30 percent in the past five years due to dwindling reserves; and Mexico’s crude oil reserves are projected to be depleted within the next nine years.

During the last 15 years, Mexico has managed to maintain economic stability, but as oil revenues continue to drop and spending continues to rise, the deficit has grown. Government spending has more than doubled and a 1 percent VAT increase will only provide short-term compensation for the drop in oil revenue. In addition, Mexico’s deficit is expected to grow to 2.5 percent of GDP next year, and that gap rises to 3.1 percent if borrowing to cover off-balance-sheet government obligations is included.

Gray Newman, chief Latin America economist for Morgan Stanley, says “Mexico’s biggest challenge is finding a way to boost long-term growth, and it hasn’t made much progress in tackling that problem.” Policymakers have been

too focused on the short-term and have taken their eye off Mexico’s structural problems. Those include cracking down on monopolies to promote competition, improving the country’s publiceducation system, and investing in a job-creating infrastructure.

The downgrade had little effect on Mexico’s Bolsa or the peso, and the benchmark peso bond yields remain unchanged. However, it comes at a time when Mexico is struggling through the worst recession since the 1930s, the war on drugs, declining oil production, and the aftermath of the H1N1 flu. Adding to that, the U.S. economic downturn has hit especially hard, as Mexico sends 80 percent of its exports north of the border.

Even though Moody’s has decided to leave Mexico’s rating intact, and both S&P and Fitch maintained Mexico’s investment-grade status, the foreign-currency debt downgrades are a sign of the country’s failure to fix its tax system and will most likely hurt economic growth for years to come.

Source: BusinessWeek

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February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

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Bachoco Announces Effects of Mexican Tax Reforms

Mexico’s new finance minister called for more competition between banks in December, saying they would play a key role in the country’s economic recovery from a deep recession.

Mexico’s largest poultry company, Bachoco S.A.B. de C.V., with over 800 production and distribution facilities currently organized in nine complexes throughout Mexico, announced that following the Mexican Stock Exchange recommendation, Bachoco will be disclosing the main effect resulting from the reform of the Mexican tax laws, according to information published in the Official Gazette. As a result, Bachoco’s income tax rate will increase two percentage points for the year 2010.

As a consequence of such increase, during fourth quarter of 2009 Bachoco will record a onetime charge of about 200 million pesos for deferred taxes; nonetheless, this charge will not affect Bachoco’s cash flow. Bachoco does not expect any other material effects on its financial condition resulting from other items in the above-mentioned Mexican reforms.

{Dining Guide guide} The Pavilion Restaurant

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Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

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25

Rosarito Beach American Food La Bamba .............................................. 661-100-2560

ENSENADA

{Dining Guide guide}

Gourmet Food and Wine in Ensenada

by Steve Dryden

Mexican Magana’s...................................................... 646-155-0586 Steak & Seafood El Rey Sol..................................................... 646-178-1601

SAN FELIPE American Los Arcos..................................................... 686-577-2585 Baja Jimmys................................................. 686-139-7373 Blowin’ Smoke BBQ ......................................686-576-0710 Road Runner Cafe..........................................686-227-7668 The Beach Bar & Grill.....................................686-577-3144 Burgers Chilis & Burgers............................................ 686-577-6196 Mexican The Beach Bar and Grill................................. 686-577-3144 Rosita Restaurant . ....................................... 686-577-1903 Pizza Fatboy’s........................................................ 686-577-4092 Los Arcos - Happy Jackass........................... 686-577-2585 Rabbit Pizza Delivery..................................... 686-577-0987 Sand Rail Pizza............................................. 686-576-0441 Steak & Seafood Los Arcos..................................................... 686-577-2585 Fine Dining The Latin Garden........................................... 686-209-6369 2-Highway 5 KM 183, San Felipe, BC Pavilion Restaurant ....................................... 686-577-0022 Juanitos (El Colorado)................................... 686-133-6500

LORETO Breakfast Cafe Sagitario................................................613-135-0718 Mexican 1697............................................................. 613-135-2538 Seafood Augie’s Bar & Bait Shop................................ 613-135-1224

LA PAZ Cafe Capri......................................................624-123-3737 Gorilla’s Grill1................................................612-128-8095

CABO SAN LUCAS American Applebee’s.....................................................624-172-6472 Asian Baan Thai Pan Asian Restaurant and Bar........624-142-3344 Burgers & More Baja Brewing Company..................................624-146-9995 Cactus Jack's Bar and Grill.............................624-142-5601 Die Trying Cafe..............................................624-142-5657 Coffee & Baked Correcaminos Cafe........................................624-142-3510 International Local Eight Restaurant...................................624-142-6655 Havana Supper Club.......................................624-142-2603 Italian & Pizza Buon Appetito................................................624-142 4040 La Dolce Italian Restaurant.............................624-142-6621 Mexican Don Emiliano Restaurant................................624-142-0266 Casianos Restaurant...................................... 624 142 5928 Brisa Beach Club and Restaurant......................624-142-244 Habanero's Restaurant...................................624-142-2626 Jazmin Restaurant..........................................624-142-1760 Seafood La Panga Antigua Restaurant and Bar.............624-142-4041 Steak La Bodega Steak and Wine House..................624-142-6619

SAN JOSE DEL CABO Mexican Panchos........................................................624-143-2891 Ay... Chihuahua..............................................624-143-3280 Baja Cantina...................................................624-143-0225 Margaritaville.................................................624-143-7401 Mi Casa.........................................................624-143-1933 Restaurant Pancho’s & Tequila Bar.................624-143-2891 Seafood La Golondrina................................................624-143-0542 Lorenzillo’s....................................................624-105-0212 The Blue Turtle...............................................624-143-1118 Villa Serena....................................................624-145-8244 International Peacocks.......................................................624-143-1858

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Finding gourmet food along with a complete wine list featuring a large selection of Baja California wines can often be difficult. Most restaurants in Mexico carry a limited selection of Santo Tomas or L.A. Cetto wines, offering wine and food lovers a shallow investigation into the world of national wines. Even with the current emerging wine culture in Mexico, it can be a real challenge to find a wide selection of regional wine in local culinary establishments.

Fortunately, here in Ensenada, we have an abundance of gourmet restaurants with excellent wine lists along with educated staff who can direct you in the right direction when it comes to food and wine pairing. Due to the proximity of the wine country, and with all the wine and food events held in this region, Ensenada leads the way in Baja California Norte when it comes to pairing gourmet cuisine and premium Mexican wines. This selection of fine culinary establishments will expose your palate and senses to Ensenada’s silent revolution in becoming Mexico’s “Wine and Food Capital.”

Ensenada is blessed with established culinary venues that have a long history of matching their cuisine with the better Mexican wines, but it’s really been in the last five years that these marriages between food and wine have gotten perfected. El Rey Sol restaurant has a longtime relationship between it’s gourmet French, international delights and premium Mexican wines. They have an extensive wine list featuring the best from many local wineries in the area. The quality of the cuisine at El Rey Sol is consistent and speaks for itself. For those learning about our Mexican wines, you can try free samples of various wines of Baja California from their “wine tasting cart” as it roams

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

between tables. The chef usually guides the cart and makes suggestions for pairing those wines with their gourmet food selections.

Several other restaurants in Ensenada offer superb cuisine and extensive wine lists to

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include: Sano’s Steak House, Punta Morro Resort, Capricho’s and Mazanilla bistro. Sano’s has the most extensive wine list and offers guests an opportunity to sit next to their glassenclosed wine cellar for that special romantic evening. The cuisine is superb, featuring high quality beef, fresh seafood, poultry and pasta dishes, all enhanced by great service from a professional staff that is well educated on local wines.

Seafood and sunset lovers can enjoy Punta Morro restaurant at a stunning location on a cliff almost touching the waters of the Pacific Ocean.

Their gourmet menu is extensive, with a focus on fresh seafood and the better wines of Mexico.

Capricho’s is a wine bar and gourmet food establishment located directly across from the original Hussong’s cantina. Their international and traditional Mexican cuisine is outstanding with a diverse selection of premium local wines by the glass or bottle. Their latest addition, outside cooking on the patio at Charlie’s, offers gourmet hamburgers for those seeking a quick and easy meal.

Another popular destination is the bistro and wine bar at Manzanilla near the harbor of Ensenada. This is a regular hangout for those in the wine industry as well as local residents who love fresh seafood prepared by one of Mexico’s top culinary celebrities.

{Dining Guide guide}

Taqueria “Los Paisas” in Cabo San Lucas

Finding a place to eat in Cabo is as easy as breathing. Restaurants line every street and each offer something special, some at a price that makes their cuisine exclusive to deep-pocket travelers, and others may offer inexpensive meals with a taste

Al pastor (Spanish; “Shepherd style”) is a dish developed in Mexico City, likely as a result of the adoption of the Shawarma spit-grilled meat brought by Lebanese immigrants to Mexico.

Having derived from the Shawarma, it is also similar to the Turkish döner kebap and the Greek gyros, which are also based on the döner.

Whereas those dishes are usually lamb-based (thus the “shepherd style” name), tacos al pastor in Mexico are usually made from pork.

The pork, it is marinated over one or two days with a blend of different chili peppers, spices and herbs (such as adobo), and then slowly cooked with a gas flame on a vertical rotisserie called a Trompo (which means spinning top), very similar to how Shawarma is cooked, with a piece of fresh pineapple on top. The juice from the pineapple contains an enzyme called bromelain, which breaks down protein and makes the meat very tender. When ready, the meat is then thinly sliced off the spit with a large knife. It is served on small tortillas with finely chopped onions, cilantro and a small slice of pineapple, and usually topped

with some lime juice and hot salsa. This meat is a common ingredient in not just tacos, but also burritos, alambres and tortas.

In some places of Northern Mexico, such as Nuevo Leon, Durango, Chihuahua, these are usually called Tacos de Trompo, if served on maize flour tortillas, and gringas if they are served on wheat flour tortillas with cheese.

A similar dish is called Tacos Árabes, which originated in Baja California, Coahuila, Jalisco, Mexico City, and Veracruz, from LebaneseMexican cuisine. Tacos Árabes use Shawarmastyle meat carved from a spit, but are served in an oversized thick flour tortilla called pan arabe.

If you’re in Cabo San Lucas and you’re interested in a taco masterpiece, visit Taqueria “Los Paisas” on Leona Vicario and say hello to owner Anotonio Osuna Salas. They’re easy to find. If you’re coming into town on the main road, Lázaro Cárdenas, turn right at the Cabo Mart and go up about three blocks. If you speak Spanish, give Antonio a call at (624) 177-3356. Don’t expect any English, but definitely expect incredible food.

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Owner Anotonio Osuna Salas proudly oversees the needs of his customers and staff.

to match. The joy is in the search, and the discovery of something affordable and out of this world—Cabo has many of these.

On a recent trip to Cabo, I stumbled across a real gem, and in a lifetime of traveling Baja, I have possibly found the best taco I had ever had at Taqueria “Los Paisas” on Leona Vicario.

Although “Los Paisas” offers a wide variety of grilled Mexican dishes, the rotisserie pork “Al Pastor” style tacos looked so good that none of us tried anything else. After the first bite, we just kept them coming. Between the four of us at the table, we finished off 15 of these delicious tacos. Mind you, these tacos were not small, just mouthwatering perfection.

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Photo by Stockton Hill

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Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

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27

{Lodging Guide}

ENSENADA Hotel Posada El Rel Sol...........................................646-178-1601

SAN FELIPE RV Park/Parque de RV Club de Pesca............................................... 686-577-1180 Kiki's RV Park on the Beach........................... 686-577-2021 Rentals Casey’s Place............................................... 686-577-1431 Rancho del Sol.............................................. 686-231-4921 Redwagon Property Services........................ 686-576-0081 Sandollar Condotels...................................... 686-123-7688 Su Casa Elegante.......................................... 686-577-0745 Motels/Hotels La Hacienda de la Langosta Roja................... 686-577-0483 Olympia Motel (Los Algodones)..................... 658-517-7347

MULEGÉ RV Oasis Rio Baja...............................................615-153-0425 Villa Maria Isabel RV Park...............................615-153-0246 Hotel Hotel Serenidad..............................................615-153-0530 Mulegé Hotel..................................................615-153-0090

LORETO RV Park/Parque de RV Rivera del Mar............................................... 613-135-0718 Rentals Coco-cabanas.............................................. 613-135-1729 El Tiburon Casitas....................................US 805-748-4566 Hamman’s Vacaciones.................................. 613-135-0791 Rental Loreto................................................ 613-135-2505 Motel Motel El Dorado.....................................686-613-135-1500

How to Choose Your Mexican Hotel

by Ricardo Lumbardo

Are you ready for your trip of a lifetime?

Perhaps not, especially when you still have not chosen your Mexican hotel. The good thing is that there are many to choose from. All you have to do is to select the one that will give you the best comfort and convenience while you’re on your way to exploring the country.

When choosing a Mexican hotel, take note of the following: 1. It should be near your point of destination— where you’re planning to spend most of your time. This way, traveling to and from your accommodations will never be too exhausting.

For example, when you’re in Acapulco, you can choose to stay in a Grupo Mayan hotel, which is also located near other important areas like the market, several attractive sights, and transportation modes that can get you to any point all over the city and even the country.

2. Know how much you can spend. The prices of accommodations may differ from one place to another, so you may want to do a little research first before you decide. The price, moreover, may vary according to your chosen type of accommodations. Inns and motels are a lot cheaper than hotels and villas. However, the latter offer more facilities such as gyms and spas.

Thus, if you want to get your money’s worth, you may want to allocate at least a slightly higher budget for your accommodations.

3. Check if there are business facilities that you can use whenever you need them. These include

Hotel Hotel Coco Cabana........................................613-135-1729 La Damiana Inn..............................................613-135-0356 La Daminanas................................................613-135-0356 Tripui Hotel.....................................................613-133-0818 Rentals Coco-cabanas...............................................613-135-1729 El Tiburon Casitas..................................US (805) 748-4566 Hamman’s Vacaciones...................................613-135-0791

Vacation Rentals & Property Management

a phone that can call long distance, fax machine and, of course, Internet connection. Usually, they are not given for free, but you can expect to not pay much for these types of services either.

4. If there are tour packages, even the better.

You can always create your own list of places to go for your Mexican trip, but it becomes a lot easier when you don’t have to do it on your own.

A lot of the hotels and accommodations that you can find in the country have tour packages available. These would include transportation, and even free lunches or dinner.

Beach-side Vacation condo or house rentals

613-135-2505

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Hotels La Concha Beach Resort . .............................612-121-6344 Los Arcos .....................................................612-122-2744 Marina Hotel .................................................612-121-6254 Mediterrane ..................................................612-125-1195 Seven Crown Hotel .......................................612-128-7787

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CABO SAN LUCAS Hotel Baja Vacations.............................................. 877-462-2226 Barcelo Hotels and Resort...........................(624) 146-7500 Cabo Surf Hote............................................. 624-142-2666 Desire Resort & Spa..................................... 624-142-9300 Posada Chabela............................................ 624-172-6495 Posada Real Best Western........................... 624-142 - 0155 Suites Las Palmas......................................... 624-142-2131

SAN JOSE DEL CABO Hotel Bahia Hotel.......................................... .........624-143-1888 Best Western Cabo Las Flores Hotel............ 624-143-6199 Casa Pablito......................................... .........624-143-1971 Hotel and Plaza Los Arcos ........................... 624-143-0702 Mar de Cortez Hotel............................. .........624-143-0032 Siesta Suites Hotel............................... .........624-143-2773

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February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

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It is definitely not a lot if you choose a hotel that can give you the best view of the beachfront.

After all, Mexico is well known for its gorgeous beaches as well as spectacular views of the sunset and sunrise. It would definitely be nice if you can begin and end each day with beautiful memories on your mind.

Don’t waste your time on shabby accommodations when you’re in Mexico. With choices like a Grupo Mayan hotel, you can definitely get the most out of your Mexican experience..

{Health & Beauty}

Stay Healthy with Yoga and “Fun in the Sun” in Loreto

by Laurence Harmon

Front of Luz de Montana Yoga Studi

Come join Karen Sheils at Luz de Montana Yoga in Loreto, Baja California Sur, for island touring, yoga, hiking, cycling, kayaking, horseback riding and many additional active and healthy activities.

Karen’s new yoga studio offers seven yoga classes and three meditation classes a week..

Luz de Montana Yoga is providing the total wellness package. Through the use of yoga, yoga therapy, ayurveda and massage, they will help you heal yourself at all levels of the body—

Inside Luz de Montana Yoga Studio

emotional, spirit, mind and physical—using yoga postures, meditation, mudras, breathing techniques, massage and nutrition.

They will not only make your body stronger, toned and more flexible, but also help you find relief from arthritis, heart disease, stress and addictions, and help you recover from sports injuries, carpal tunnel, traumas and more.

Alaska Air flies direct to Loreto, so you can fly in on a Friday, stay for 10 days and leave on a Sunday. How perfect is that? Plus, they can customize your retreat to your needs, goals and desires. They’ll even organize it all, from activities to accommodations for you.

For a one-week retreat, Karen offers as many yoga classes as you like and choice of three adventures with an extra one being a drive to her favorite restaurant for a morning yoga class, world-class coconut encrusted fish and beach combing, from there you can hike through shell canyon—a truly unique experience.

Price will vary depending on accommadations and tours, but it is all fairly inexpensive. For more information, email Karen at ksonedaisy@ gmail.com.

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(686) 577-0708 Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

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29

{Blues & Arts Fiesta}

Get YouOrW! Tickets N

The Bands

Call -LUV-MEX1 (US) 1-877or ndarts.com www.bluesa

The 4th Annual International Blues & Arts Fiesta is a presentation of the San Felipe BC Lion’s Club and Mexico Living Guide to support the community of San Felipe. Live Blues, Beautiful Art and Sculpture, and Amazing Talent all encapsulated in cool sea breezes and majestic mountains. A Baja concert and art event like no other. Held downtown San Felipe at the base of the mountains along the Sea of Cortez. More Information go to www.bluesandarts.com” or call 1-877-LUV-MEX!

Agave Blues

This talented group of players creates a mix, of originals and favorites, delivered with polish and style. They have won numerous awards and headlined the 2009 “Ensenada Blues & Rock Fiesta” to standing ovations and encores. Always “In the Pocket” their appearance promises to be another great show. This will be their third appearance in this festival. “Agave Blues” Band is a product of San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico. Enjoy!

Alice Stuart

“Blues Hall of Fame” Inductee. Alice Stuart’s music holds within it a flame that burns and burns. Alice has toured with folk and blues legends such as Joan Baez, Doc Watson, Mississippi John Hurt, Lightnin’ Hopkins, Albert King and many others. Her career includes years with Frank Zappa and then toured Europe with Van Morrison and the list of credits goes on and on! It is said “She paved the road that Bonnie travels”(Taj Mahal). We are honored to have this great legend perform at our event. What a talent! Alice has a great band, the “Formerlys,” comprised of players who’s credits of “Formerly” will knock your socks off. This will be a highlight of our “Fiesta”.

Guaranteed!

Becki Sue & Her Big Rockin’ Daddies!

Winners of “Best Band” Western Washington State. This high energy blues band will get you up and dancing. They bring a great show with great music. We hope to have their new CD available at the event. Enjoy!

30

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

Chet Cannon and The Committee

San Diego’s Premier “Down and Dirty” Blues Band. These guys knocked us out last year and we are delighted to have them back again this year. They always bring their “A” game and will “groove on” with their smooth “roots blues” style. Look for their new CD that will be available at the event!

Gregg Wright

Among Gregg’s many memorial credits, Gregg played with Michael Jackson on the “Victory” Tour & “Victory” album. His solo career is, nothing short of, stellar! He is a featured player and/or headliner at many International festivals and brings a truly unique style to our event. Gregg is known as “The King of the Rockin’ Blues!” His music will enlighten you!

Javier Batiz

Legendary Guitar Player! He is the “Godfather of Mexican Rock.” This remarkable talent has been creating great music for many years with more than 30 albums to his credit. This will be his first appearance in San Felipe and he promises to rock the house.

Rumor has it that Javier taught Carlos Santana to play rock (not just a rumor).

Michele Lundeen

“The Queen of Steam” herself! Michele has been nominated for “Best Blues” 2009 by the “San Diego Music Awards” and was a nominee in 2006. This will be her fourth appearance at our “Fiesta.” Needless to say, she is a real crowd pleaser. High energy with a great voice. A blues treasure for sure!

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Ruta 69

“Ensenada’s Best Musicians.” An All-Star cast, promises to be a great show. These guys reflect the popularity of Rock and Blues in Mexico. “West Coast Style,” West Coast Baja that is!

Sean Carney Band with Phil Berkowitz

“2007 International Blues Challenge winner and Albert King Award winner as Most Promising Guitar Player.” What an honor to have this great band in our “Fiesta.” Sean teams up with the legendary Phil Berkowitz, the “Master of the Blues Harmonica.” Hold on to your seats, this promises to be a show to remember.

Vatos Locos

820 Band

This local San Felipe band brings a surf music flavor to our event. They play “Surfabilly” blues with a style of their own. This power trio promises to keep you in motion. This will be their fourth appearance.

This Southern California favorite will get ya goin’. Great Players create Great Music!

With the release of their new CD, this band will definitely leave a lasting impression.

They have many credits and will knock you out!

The Artists

{Blues & Arts Fiesta} Andrena Joyce – Acrylic Painter

Desert Mothers

Andrena Joyce, a popular local artist, lives full time in San Felipe. She took up painting and now finds rarely a day goes by without picking up a brush. She says her style varies but definitely enjoys whimsy in her art. Joyce considers painting her form of therapy and supports organizations with profits. SFAR (San Felipe Animal Rescue) ZAPP program (spay and neutering San Felipe street dogs) and Women to Women International are current recipients. “Having a purpose to paint makes it just more meaningful to me,” says Joyce.

Arturo Gomez – Paintings, Tiles, Custom Murals

Arturo Gomez has been producing art in San Felipe for many years. His art reflects the flavor of Baja in a variety of mediums but his true love is painting. Paintings of downtown San Felipe and the Sea of Cortez allow our Baja visitors to take a piece of their travel experience home with them.

On most Saturdays, Arturo and his work can be found at the Cachinilla Swap Meet. His work can be found in many of the shops downtown and he paints custom designed murals in homes.

Baja Nueva – Luxury Contemporary Home Décor

Baja Nueva specializes in luxury contemporary home décor, accessories and furniture. Sharon and Jerry Lankin take enormous pride in designing a unique setting for the discriminating buyer who wishes to create a beautiful living environment.

You can select from an array of domestic and imported gifts, home accessories, fine art, and artisan made collectibles, art glass, metal sculptures, ceramics, and imported contemporary furniture. Many of their items are custom made and one of a kind.

Baja Treasures

Vickie Rama and Vickie Silva are both transplanted full-time residents of San Felipe. Ms. Rama has been designing and carving for 25 years in a variety of mediums from porcelain to bone. She is currently designing her newest line of bone pendants using whale, camel and moose bones. She creates lovely pieces of wearable art. Contact her at (686) 122-2668.

Ms. Silva has been designing unique clothing and accessories for 20 years. She currently sells her jean bags and purses in numerous boutiques in Palm Springs, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Phoenix. Bring her your favorite jean jacket and she will turn it into a beaded masterpiece for you to wear for years to come. Contact Ms. Silva at (686) 175-5420.

Desert Mothers is an organization building bridges between Mexican Women and foreign communities. The goal of Desert Mothers is to build selfesteem using creative energy as a tool. Mosaics, masks, paintings and sculptured pieces are displayed and sold in various venues. Desert Mothers takes a very small percent of the sale to pay for more art materials. If you wish to participate in any of their Art Play Shops, sponsor this organization or have any art materials or equipment to donate please contact Donna Roberts at bajadonna@gmail.com. The booth is being sponsored by Gary Dilley, president of the local Lions Club.

Digital Designs by Robin

Robin Waters has always had a passion for art, and when she found a media that could transcend traditional painting, she became a digital artist. As a little girl, a new box of crayons was always her favorite gift. She continued her education, studying oil, water color, acrylics and various mediums at the Oregon School of Arts, specializing in fiber/fabric and designing hand-painted wearable art. Now making her home in Baja, she has turned to another technique, that of photography and digital painting.

Portraits are her favorites, creating timeless heirloom art from your photograph. Call Robin at (686) 115-0526, email DigitalDesignsbyRobin@ gmail.com, or visit www.DigitalDesignsbyRobin.com and www.zazzle. com/BajaRobin.

Elizabeth Kapa

Each of Elizabeth Kapa’s paintings is an adventure, exploring each subject and how the light affects the form, whether it’s fleeting, spilling over, striking or glowing. Her brush creates an environment that draws you in, passionately kisses your eyes, and inspires delight for “stopping to see the amazing colors.” The spontaneous qualities of watercolor appeal to Elizabeth’s thirst for joyful, colorful, creative expression, and she is quite adamant that art is not a luxury but a necessity. “Art is the product of feelings captured from a fleeting moment in time, and should be shared with all.” Original paintings and limited edition gifts available at elizabethKapa.com. Her work is also available locally at Baja Nueva.

Marilyn Pardee

Marilynn moved to San Felipe in March of 2009 from San Francisco. She is returning to the textile arts after a 20-year hiatus to raise her daughter.

Marilynn designed and manufactured under the label “PARDEE” during the 1980s in Los Angeles.

Her line was carried in fashion-forward boutiques and prestigious stores throughout the United States. Her pieces currently can be purchased through her website.

Mary Mobley – Ceramic Potter

Mary Mobley found the art medium of clay in 1992 . . . or rather it found her. She began experimenting by taking ceramic classes and joining The Creative Play Studio in Alexandria, Virginia. Her works have been seen in many art shows around the country. As a mostly self-taught clay builder and potter she has learned that, “The piece of clay will tell you what it wants.” She might start out with a bowl in mind and it will end up being a plate. This kind of synergism is very much reflected in her free-form works and hand-built fish of which much detail is apparent. Her clay ideas are pressed, pulled, scored, rolled, dug out and attached with attention to the forms of nature as her inspiration. “Pottery has been around since time began, and I hope my pieces will be appreciated long after I am gone.”

Pai-Pai Potters Daria Mariscal

The Indigenous peoples of California have been pit firing clay pottery ollas in the Southern California and northern Mexico area for thousands of years using the pit-fire method. Daria Mariscal makes traditional pit-fired pottery. She quarries her own clay. Darria also weaves baskets with juncus, palm and pinon pine needles,and teaches pottery classes. She has taught on the Viejas Indian Reservation and Barona Indian Reservation in San Diego County. Daria lives in the PaiPai community of Santa Catarina, Baja California, Mexico.

Peoples Gallery

Opened since 1992, the People’s Gallery offers an assortment of handcrafted items by local Mexican and American artists. Unique paintings, jewelery, stone and wood sculptures, wood carvings, funiture, wall hangings, cards and crafts are available.

B-Dazzled by Debbie jewlery will be featured. The gallery is also home to the ever popular and widely read San Felipe Newsletter. The People’s Gallery, 381-5 Mar de Cortez south near the Net.

Valentina Ragsdale – Oil and Pastel Mediums

Valentina was born and raised in Chelyanbinsk, Russia. She studied at the Chelyabinsk Art College (1975-1978) and at the Art-Graphic faculty of the Nizhniy Tagil Pedagogical University (1978-1983).

As an artist, she works in different creative and production groups. She has produced work ranging from paintings to interior design. Her preference is oil and pastel. Her favorite genres: portrait, still-life and landscape. She works in the style of Russian realistic school. Her works are located in private collections in Mexico, Russia, America, Germany, Israel and other countries. Many custom homes in Baja are proud to display her art.

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Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

Agave Blues Band People’s Gallery www.mexicolivingguide.com

31

Fishing} {fishign Panga fishing

Fishing in Remote Places

Photo by Bazant

by Dann Manz

T

his past September, my fishing partner, Jack, and I decided we needed to get out of dodge and go fishing in a new place.

MEXICO LIVING

BAJA CALIFORNIA Guide to Pacific Baja & The Sea of Cortez

The Baja Peninsula Community Newspaper

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32

We both live in the Ensenada area, and fish three to four days a week. On this occasion we decided to head south along the Pacific coastline. We finally decided on a small fishing town, Santa Rosalita. It is located about 20 miles north of Guerrero Negro. Never having been there before, we both did our research by using Google Earth. It looked like a nice quiet place to go, with a lot of beach camping available.

We loaded up my 14-foot aluminum boat with all the camping and fishing gear, and headed south for seven hours. Upon arriving, we made a slow tour of the town of maybe 30 people. There were a couple tiny stores and one bar/restaurant.

We made an inquiry to a local resident about someone taking us out fishing the next day in a panga. He said we should come back in a few hours and someone would be around that we could talk to about being our guide.

We proceeded to find a place to camp for the night on a beach right near town. We found a nice flat spot to set up camp without a soul in sight. After we had set up camp, we headed back into town to see if we could find a panga guide.

We just wanted to be guided the first day, so we could learn the area, and the best fishing spots.

After a few minutes we were directed to the guy we needed to talk to—Julio. A young, handsome man, dressed like he was going to Mom’s for dinner. He said he would take us out in the morning at 6 a.m. for $100. It all sounded good to us, so we went back to camp to make dinner and hit the hay early so we were ready for our early morning fishing trip.

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

We met with Julio the next morning and, after having coffee at his house, we headed for the beach to launch. The panga was a very nice 24-footer, with a new 70 hp, 4-stroke motor. It turns out that the whole village was just waiting for lobster season to open in a couple days, so Julio was free to take us fishing . . . and that he did!

We traveled many miles and started trolling.

We caught one bonita after another, with a few barracuda in between. The yellowtail that we were hoping for were being tight lipped. Towards noon, we told Julio we would like to catch some calico bass that the area was famous for. No problem. We caught a cooler full in the next couple hours. After being on the water now for over six hours, we were getting tired and told Julio we wanted to quit for the day. He seemed disappointed, and was ready to stay out all day.

We finally came to shore at around 2 p.m. At that point Julio offered that we could stay in a little casita he owned in town right on the ocean.

We accepted rapidly, since we spent the night before camping in the sand. So, we packed up and moved to his casita for the rest of our stay.

It consisted of two bedrooms with one bed, and a bathroom with no water.

Within an hour Julio was back with a 55-gallon barrel of water and a cooler of crushed ice.

We decided to fish with him the next day also, as the surf was getting too big to launch my boat.

As it turned out, the next day brought waves that were too large for any boat to launch; so, Jack and I spent the day collecting clams and shore

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

fishing for halibut.

On the last day, we went out with Julio again. We probably put on 50 miles that day.

We caught tons of bonita, barracuda, and lost one nice yellowtail. We could see Julio was disappointed for not showing us better fishing (even though we were in seventh heaven with all the fish we had caught). So, he told us about a good spot about an hour away. We agreed to give it a shot even though the waves and winds were increasing. We finally got to the hot spot an hour or so later, and began catching more calico bass, barracuda, and huge sand bass than we thought could exist. After a couple hours our arms were worn out and the ocean was getting pretty ugly. We all decided we should make the trip home with our coolers overflowing. Two hours later, after an extreme beating against the waves, we safely reached the beach.

We were exhausted, but had one of the best fishing days of our lives. We napped, cooked dinner, went to bed, and woke in the morning to pack up and leave for home. Of course, we got Julio’s phone number and promised to be back.

It was like we were part of his family after only three days, and they were going to miss us as much as we were going to miss them. As we left Julio, all the other fishermen were loading lobster traps on their boats, getting ready for the opening of lobster season. We all waved goodbye for now.

Jack and I will remember the trip for the rest of our lives. So, get out there and visit all that Baja has to offer.

0

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15 49

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354 21

150 75

7

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1631 -23

2255 152

8

449 22

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1704 -2

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9

551 26

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15

555 156

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16

636 163

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2011 109

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100 56

711 168

1412 -20

2032 113

18

132 49

13 742 169

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2052 117

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811 167

1458 -15

150 75

1519 -9

21

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304 33

907 153

1539 -1

2153 131

22

16 43

338 30

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23

415 30

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24

457 31

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20

25

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26

704 37

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150

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28

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50

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145 82

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120 W.G.

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6

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18

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6

4

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618 87

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2111 122 69 49

16

18

Dom 18

6

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400 200

18

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852 99

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21

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408 204

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25

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Dom 18

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6

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18

0

6

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105 W.G.

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2223 116

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21 28 5 13 http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González

723 108

1440 -32

2104 79

213 18

811 113

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103 95

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1103 27

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PMS 19 52

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18

735 128

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801 129

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449 12

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Angeles, B.C. CICESE Bahía de los (28 57 N, 113 33 W)

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844 -23

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2042 -41

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303 214

923 -24

1525 175

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335 188

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434 131

1152 9

1943 136

129 502 96 105

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2302 173

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PMS

200

NMM

100

BMI

0

554 1016 67 97

1625 7

2342 187

15

613 1100 56 108

1707 -6

010 196

16

629 49

1128 120

1737 -17

032 200

17

641 42

1151 132

1801 -26

048 203

18

654 33

1213 145

1825 -32

104 206

19

710 22

1239 157

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122 206

729 11

1308 167

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PMS

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100

BMI

0

1917 -31

16 43

143 203

751 2

1339 172

1945 -20

22

204 195

814 -2

1411 171

23

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224 183

838 -2

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634 94

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1515 156

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2107 40

255 156

928 3

1554 145

2137 63

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310 143

1002 7

1652 134

27

2223 86

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NMM BMI

2142 56

327 130

1058 12

1848 129

027 349 105 114

1231 13

2120 147

424 92

1422 2

2221 176

450 67

918 106

1547 -23

2304 203

522 40

1028 132

1647 -49

2343 224

555 12

1123 160

1737 -68

019 236

629 -13

28

PMS

200

NMM

100

BMI

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1211 184

1822 -75

PMS

8 39

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054 238

40

PMS

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122

PMS

2152 59

80

27

21 28 5 13

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BMI

2204 49

20 1036 1517 30 14

1126 1551 39 25

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231 235

0 230 25

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Cabo San Lucas, B.C.S.

17

FEBRERO 2010

18

0 351 22

1621 21

http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González

Sab

6

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BMI

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(26 01 N, 111 22 W) 18

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BMI 827 127

0

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2150 71

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2050 130 73 33

1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:

10

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120

5

1534 -18

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Oceanografía Física

2

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Loreto, B.C.S.

18

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19

http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González

FEBRERO 2010

1520 -21

BMI 332 0

157 -11

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8 39

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PMS 19 52

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2218 146

0 358 285

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20

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FEBRERO 2010

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18

http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González

(31 01 N, 114 49 W) 18

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6

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CICESE

Oceanografía Física

(24 10 N, 110 21 W)

5

http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González

FEBRERO 2010

0

0

100

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18

BMI 1336 0

254 6

75

Oceanografía Física

Mar

6

0

2101 158

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0

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0 208 8

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La Paz, B.C.S.

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CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

0

Hora del Meridiano:

120 W.G.

Nivel de Referencia:

BMI

1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:

21 28 5 13

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

www.mexicolivingguide.com

http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.9 2010 J.I. González

33

{Arts}

Jill Logan

Deep in Clay Pottery Company

Creator of Vibrant Works of Art

Jill Logan is an inspiring and spirited artist who has shown her work all over the United States and has established an international fan base. Luckily¸ local Baja Sur residents do not have to venture far to experience her work in person as she has her own gallery in Todos Santos. With 50 to 60 of her paintings in her gallery, Jill is able to freely expand on her artistic style. She says owning her own gallery gives her an outlet for her artistic explorations.

She credits the freedom of having her own gallery as a way of staying young, alive and fresh in the world of art.

Jill came to Todos Santos in 1993 after an extensive art education in Utah and California, private study under other respected art professionals along with impressive exhibits in New York City, Oregon, New Mexico and California. Her first visit to Todos Santos sparked an appreciation for the lighting and beauty of the local architecture and landscape. This inspired her to return and paint. After a few rough weeks adjusting to life in a foreign land alone, Jill found herself feeling more at home in

Marti Freeman of Deep in Clay

“Midnight in Baja” by Jill Logan

Todos Santos than anywhere else. A visit in 1998 solidified those feelings and quickly resulted in a permanent move.

She continues to be inspired by the area she fell in love with and now calls her true home. With some pieces and themes taking months to com-

plete, Jill works with and is inspired by the hidden essence she is able to see in nature, people and the unique architecture around her.

Some of her pieces such as Blue Sky Palms and Midnight in Baja use bold colors and seem to enhance the natural tranquility of the local landscape.

Jill’s theme of doors and entryways are as inviting to the observer as the actual entrance to her gallery, which is a work of art in itself. Pieces such as Ola de Luz and other ocean-themed paintings depict the beauty, strength and power of the ocean waves.

One of the newest techniques Jill is dabbling in to create more eye-catching and stunning works of art is the use of gold. For the last three years she has used mediums like gels, gold and copper leafing, and antiquing techniques. Another new avenue of expression she has enjoyed recently has been the limitless possibilities of broken tile. These techniques have given her new outlets of creative expression that keep Jill’s work exciting, evolving and fresh.

Jill Logan’s vibrant works of art can be seen at her gallery on Calle Juarez y Morelos, Todos Santos.

“Casa Roja VII”

“Ola De Luz” by Jill Logan

34” x 34” oil on canvas $3600 framed

by JILL LOGAN

Gecko’s Curios Kathy and Hector are very proud to re-open their completely renovated shop in Loreto— Gecko’s Curios. They wanted to bring handmade Mexican gifts, art and decorations to Loreto in a way that no one else does . . . and within the budget of everyone! From the comments of their customers, they have succeeded!

If you are looking for a small gift or a lovely new piece that will “just fit” on that wall in your 34

home, then drop by their newly renovated store in Loreto. You’ll love it!

They can also order anything. Just give them the chance and they’ll find what you need.

They’re open Monday–Wednesday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Thursday–Saturday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Sundays.

Gecko’s Curios is located on the main street, Paseo Hidalgo, in Loreto, just a few blocks from

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

the beautiful Sea of Cortez and 100 feet from Cactus Liquors; or call them at 613-135-2505.

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

For roughly 40 years, the owner of Deep in Clay Pottery Company has been making a living playing in the mud. Seeing this as more of a privilege and way to feed the soul rather than a business is perhaps what makes the unique and handmade products of Deep in Clay Pottery Company so treasured by those who are lucky enough to own a piece.

Every piece that comes out of Deep in Clay Pottery Company is literally created freely by hand.

There are absolutely no molds or commercially produced green ware to be found. All of the throwing, glazing and firing is also done in the studio.

Deep in Clay Pottery Company makes everything from functional vases, cups, pots and artistic pieces. There are pieces that are high-fire ware, which makes them safe for oven and microwave use and also dishwasher safe. Some of the more decorative pieces include pots that are decorated with horse hair, a technique Indians have done for centuries.

You can also find sagger fire pots and raku pots.

Starting out in California with a homemade kick wheel, now Deep in Clay Pottery Company has the most advanced tools of the trade, including both a shuttle kiln and a raku kiln.

There are a number of ways to see and purchase one-of-a-kind creations made by Deep in Clay Pottery Company. As an invited guest of Unica Gallery, pieces are available there. Unica Gallery is on Highway 5 north of San Felipe. Deep in Clay Pottery Company also has pottery at street fairs and craft shows throughout the area. The Arizona Marketplace in Yuma also has pieces for sale. Distinctive horse hair pots can also be found in The Wester Ware store in Brawley.

There are some exciting new ideas that will soon be coming out of the Deep in Clay Pottery Company studio. In early 2010, new pots created in conjunction with sculptor and artist Rosario Torres will be available. Also, due to high demand to share the love of creating pottery, Deep in Clay Pottery Company may try to incorporate lessons to teach a few the secrets to throwing and creating pieces they love. The feelings of satisfaction and love that come from making a treasured piece from a glob of mud is something Deep in Clay Pottery Company knows all too well and wishes to share with others.

To reach Deep in Clay Pottery Company, call 576-0220. This is a home number and may not garner an immediate response. You can also reach the owner by visiting Galeria Unica and leaving a message with Rosario.

{Home & Real estate Estate} San Felipe Management Services

Your One-Stop Builder and Mover

San Felipe Management Services was created in May 2005 and is the result of 65 years in managing people and projects. Kristy Deegan and Stan Shifflet realized there was a need for a professional management company to be the eyes, ears and voice for absentee owners during the construction of their home. They have aptly named their crew the “Dream Team,” which consists of the homeowner(s), the architect, contractor, legal team, interior designer, finishing contractor and building inspector. They pride themselves in building a home in only five months!

In addition to building projects, Fix-it Express is their new property management program, providing 24-hour emergency handyman services, as well as regular maintenance, including AC, plumbing, propane, solar, etc.

Located in Playa de Oro; Mexico (686) 576-0553, U.S. (760) 890-4447, email kristy@sanfelipemanagement.com.

An Exclusive Gated 8 Unit Townhome Complex in San Felipe DEVELOPER FINANCING AVAILABLE

Starting at $159,900 US 760-208-1700

www.oasisdecortez.com

   

Design/Build Certified Inspection Interior Design Health/Homeowner Insurance  Legal: • Mexican Will • Fideicomiso • Immigration • Importation

CALL jim moore (686) 184-9237 cell in mexico (619) 209-8486 from the u.s.

E-Mail: sfvillagerealty@yahoo.com.mx

NEW! Fix-it Express 24-Hour Emergency Repair Service We also have PROPERTY MAINTENANCE Services!

We handle your construction project from start to finish WITHIN 5 MONTHS!

MX: (686) 576-0553 US: (760) 890-4447 www.sanfelipemanagement.com

Home Furnishings & Accessories Floor Plans • Construction • Decorating Outdoor Patio Furniture • Professional Design Services Discounted Home and Condo Furniture Packages New Faster Shipping • Fine Art Gallery

(612) 145 0379 • www.rickeyricardos.com

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

www.mexicolivingguide.com

35

{Home & Real estate Estate} For all your disposal needs Permanent & Temporary Construction Waste Commercial & Residential Portable Toilets Septic Pumping

Baja Lending Company www.BajaLendingCo.com

• #1 Mortgage Broker on the Baja • Competitive interest rates • 6 major international financial 68 Gallon Containers for Residence & Business

•

3 & 6 Yard Commercial

•

Portable Toilets

•

Competitive Rates

•

Septic Pumping

686-121-1004 or 686-212-3599

Baja Closing Services

South of Kilometer 187, San Felipe B.C.

• Protecting your real estate

transaction • From Contract, Closing, Fideicomiso, & Disbursements • Our 3rd party oversight insures that funds are disbursed correctly US 760-494-7053 MX 011-52-686-576-0653

Mary@BajaLendingCo.com

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

Residential Pick Up

Containers

institutions • Construction loans • Purchase money loans • Refinance loans

36

•

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

{Home & Real estate Estate} Alexander Real Estate

Committed to the Community of Loreto Originally from Vancouver, B.C., Alexander

name, introducing them to other expatriates and

ball stadium, the University, the local library, the

Ogilvie first visited Baja 12 years ago. And, just

generally making them feel at home in their new

Interlado, the Turtle Foundation, the new Whale

like many, he fell in love with the people, cul-

town.

Museum and other local projects.

ture, climate and beautiful scenery and decided

Alexander is the President of the Loreto AMPI

He is a member of International Real Estate

chapter and is affiliated with NAR in the U.S. He

Specialist and works with Realtors in other

Now, the owner of Alexander Real Estate and

keeps abreast of local trends and works closely

countries that market his listings. To view Alex-

Investments S.A. de C.V. in Loreto, Alexander

with local architects and builders to keep up to

ander’s listings, visit www.castlesandestates.

and his highly qualified staff pride themselves

date on changes in the community, prices and

com and click on Mexico on the home page.

on giving superior service to their real estate cli-

regulations.

to stay.

Located in downtown Loreto, Alexander Real

ents. They handle real estate transactions from

Proud to call Loreto his home, Alexander

Estate can be reached at (613) 135-0212,

start to finish and assist new buyers in such

stays deeply involved in the community with Op-

www.loretorealty.com or realtybaja@gmail.com.

extras as converting the utilities over to their

timist Club activities, fundraisers for the base-

Loreto Mission in the beautiful colonial downtown.

SWEITZER CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT COMPANY BJ Sweitzer Consultant Carlos Mora Contractor

Phone: 577-0195 USA: 011-52-686-577-0195 Email: bejota10@aol.com

Computer & Satellite Installation Satellite Internet

Also Computers, Cell Phones, and DVD Rentals

Av. Mar de Cortez, Plaza San Felipe Visit us Online: www.csibaja.com

686-577-2928 shane@csibaja.com

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

www.mexicolivingguide.com

37

OPEN HOUSE PHOTO ADS Publish your real estate photo ad for ONLY $50. Simply email your copy and photo to sales@ mexicoliving.info and Mexico Living will contact you. If you have questions, please call 686-230-9933 in Mexico or 877-LUVMEX1 from the US.

San Felipe, Baja California This beautiful 2 Master Suite home is located in the gated community of El Dorado Ranch in San Felipe, Baja California. Front and back tiled patios offer sea and mountain views. The rooftop deck is perfect for stargazing and relaxing.

Includes great room, garage and billiard table.

Home is fully furnished, ready to move in TODAY! Offered at $209k Bill Maine 686-231-4921 or 619-203-5129.

La Paz, Baja California Sur Beachfront, Single Story, Modern Home with SaltWater Pool & Income- Producing Guesthouse for Sale in La Paz! Mexican Modern Design, plus American Materials, Green Construction HighEnd Furnishings Equal Luxury and Style. Are you a discerning individualist? Do you want to vacation or retire in comfort and style on the beach with all of the amenities of the old country, while living a life of ease in paradise? Do you want your little piece of paradise to pay its way?

The “HoneyMoon Hut” guesthouse has solid pre-paid bookings. Main house can be rented as well. See video http://bit.ly/L9E2Q $725,000 Omni Services 52 (612) 123 4888 omni@ osmx.com.

38

Open House US$180,000 Home Sweet Home This beautiful 2-bedroom suite home is located in the gated community of El Dorado Ranch in San Felipe, Baja California. This spectacular cul-de-sac lot is approximately 10,000 sq.ft. with green area in front of the house, leaving unobstructed views of the San Martir Mountain Range. It’s close enough to the highway for easy access, yet far enough away to not hear all the traffic sounds.

Each bedroom has amazing views of the Sea of Cortez and a queen pillowtop bed in each room. The master suite has its own private bath with a built-in closet and oversized tiled shower. The second suite has a bath that is shared with guests with two-door access (one to the bedroom and one to the living room).

Built in 2004, the home is approximately 1,200 sq.ft. plus a 1-gar garage and laundry room. The laundry area is located in an adjacent room to the garage, easily accessible when you come in from playing in the desert or on the beach and don’t want to wander through the house with sandy feet and clothes.

The living room is a “Great Room” design with a full-size pool table. The den is an open design attached to the great room with access to the garage and includes a love seat, sleeper sofa, coffee table and two end tables. A 25-inch TV is included along with the TV stand.

Cooks will fall in love with this fabulous kitchen, which includes not only an abundance of cabinet space, but a propane stove/oven, microwave and electric refrigerator. The rooftop deck is perfect for stargazing and relaxing, and includes an outdoor firepit chiminia. This beautiful house is in homes-only electric area with cistern water and propane.

Desert landscaped for easy, environment-friendly care, this marvelous home comes fully furnished, with silverware, plates, sheets, towels, pots and pans, beds . . . ready to move in TODAY!

REDUCED to $180,000 for Quick Sell All Reasonable Offers Considered Email: billmaine@gmail.com Call: (619) 203-5129 US or (686) 231-4921 MX

WWW.MEXICOLIVINGGUIDE.COM/OPENHOUSE

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

La Paz, Baja California Sur This stylish home must be seen to be appreciated! Located in El Comitan roughly 15 Km north of La Paz. Has a large, bright living/ dining area and an open kitchen with state-ofthe art appliances. Master bed and bath are located on the main floor with a covered patio to the pool area. A separate stairwell takes you to the terrace with a guest bedroom, bath and outstanding views. Approximately 1,700 sq. ft., fully furnished, professionally landscaped with an automatic irrigation system. PRICED TO SELL at US$340,900. Contact Alexander at 011 52 (613) 104-3625 or alexander@loretorealty.com.

San Felipe, Baja California Casa de Llantas FOR SALE by Owner. Contact andrenajoyce@yahoo.com, (686) 210-4598.

Artist designed, custom-built tire home in the Ejido. Two master suites, two baths, spacious open floorplan, tiled, fenced and landscaped, garage. Furnished and ready to move in. Owner will carry with substantial down. You must see this unique home! $149,000

San Felipe, Baja California One can truly appreciate the beauty and peace of Baja in this gorgeous, 2,100 sq. ft. home. It comes completely furnished, has a separate two-bedroom casita, and the amenities are too extensive to list them all; upgraded furniture and appliances, ceiling fans, entertainment center, 109-inch Projection DLP Home Theatre and many, many more. The outdoor living area is over 9,000 sq. ft., including pool, spa, shower, kitchen, and lots of privacy. This million dollar property is PRICED TO SELL at only US$499,000! To start living your dream, contact Bill Maine at (619) 203-5129; from the U.S. (760) 688-6238; or VIPearthEVents@gmail.com.

FREE CLASSIFIED ADS FREE CLASSIFIED ads can now be submitted via email, classified@mexicoliving.info.

All ads must be 60 words or less and contain phone number, city and price.

Wanted San Felipe: 3BR/4BR long-term rental wanted.

Looking for a modern, well-built home for long-term rental in San Felipe. Principals only please. Call Bill at (686) 577-6228 (MX) or (408) 868-4992 (US) San Felipe: Students for April spanish classes in San Felipe! Registration will be on April 11 with classes beginning on the 12th and running through the 23rd. Classes given by The Baja California Language College. Reservations for the February Class is a two-for-one offer. Visit bajacal.com or email Barbara Cramer, bccramer49@yahoo.com.

La Paz: Looking for a list of RELIABLE Rental/ Leasing Real Estate people. I am moving to La Paz late summer of 2010. I am looking to rent or lease a small house in the Mexican communities.

NO AMERICAN COMMUNITES! bizpro@clearwire. net Muchas Gracias Los Barriles: A small dog kennel for air travel. We are adopting a Mexican dog to take back to Canada on West Jet and need a cabin kennel 16” long, 17.5”wide, 8.5” high or slightly larger will also work.

Leaving Feb 19. cgstone@telus.net.

must contain contact info and price. Mexico Living reserves the right to edit all ads for length, or to refuse any ads. We will not print ads submitted with ALL CAPS.

For Sale San Felipe: 2002 Dodge Ram 2500, $4950. Great condition! 2002 Dodge 2500 extended cab 2-wheel drive. Air conditioner, power windows, power door locks, spray on bedliner, deluxe interior, automatic transmission, towing package, recent tires, Magnum 5.9L V8 engine, heated mirrors, and power mirrors.

Contact kingairpilot@yahoo.com San Felipe: Two (2) 2001 90cc Kasea Quads. These are small 90cc quads. Ideal for children 5–12. One is red and one is blue. They have very few hours on them as they were only used on an occasional visit by the grandchildren. They have a tether that kills the engine and is ideal as a teaching aid. I have them priced at $450 each or both for $800. bajajim007@ yahoo.com Ensenada: EBook - How to Catch California Halibut. Dann Manz would like to share his e-book on how to catch California Halibut” Visit www. shallowhalibut.com for more information.

La Paz: 30-Foot Travel Trailer For Sale. In good condition, built in 1995 by Prowler, it includes all factory options and comes with a microwave, AC, full awning and more. Room for 6, completely selfcontained. Asking US$8,500 OBO. CASH ONLY! Call Dax at (612) 140-3070. For pictures, email mav_1070@yahoo.com.

Real Estate For Sale La Paz: A lot for sale in the lovely community of Bellaterra (which is located in the hills above Marina Palmira). The ocean views are stunning, and it’s just a few minutes away from downtown La Paz. Call Dax at (612) 140 3070.

Los Barriles: El Cardonal Beachfront Lot For Sale.

Beautiful Cardonal beachfront lot located on the bluff above El Cardonal Reef. Fenced with power and water available to property. Selling well below market value! If your looking for a great deal on beachfront please contact wkbaja@gmail.com

Rentals San Felipe: Long-term rental, 6 months to one year. El Dorado ranch $550 plus utilites.

2 bedroom 2 bath, fully furnished, palapa with barbecue, television service. Contact Pam Pastore, redwagonbaja@gmail.com.

Loreto: Beautiful 3 Bedroom, 2 Bath Vacation Rental Home. Sleeps Six! Shared Pool. All American Standard - Completely Furnished with Satellite TV and Wireless Internet. Great Backyard Patio with BBQ. Just bring your bathing suit! Centrally Located in Loreto. Nightly US$125, Weekly US$750. Check out this Great Vacation Rental Home and others we manage at www.rentalsloreto.com

Across 1: Dollar competitor 5: Best 10: Pajamas cover 14: Bombay garment 15: Lots of paper 16: Sparkle 17: Royal daughters incorporated into crowds (10) 19: Encircle 20: Methodology (abbr.)

21: ‘Seeya’ 22: Vampire repellent 23: Golf range surface 24: Actor’s minimum wage 26: Pigs without pigment, e.g.

30: Mel Blanc’s is ‘That’s all, folks’ 34: Tow 35: Josh 37: Menu choice 38: Lay into 40: Go, with ‘on down’ 42: Itching (to) 43: Artgum, for example 45: Repetitive computer program 47: Light source 48: Homesteader 50: Like open convertibles 52: Run off 54: ‘Sweet Pea’ singer Tommy 55: Footwear 58: Impales 60: Old hand

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

Miscellaneous Los Barilas: DANCE NIGHT. Tuesday from 8 to 10 p.m. at Buzzards, in the Plaza. Swing, ballroom and disco to music of the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s Rock ‘n’ Roll. Couples and singles, tell your friends.

San Felipe: San Felipe Lions Club Meeting at Los Arcos Restaurant on the last Thursday of the month at 6 p.m. Contact sanfelipebclionsclub@gmail.com San Felipe: San Felipe Rotary Club Meeting every Monday at 8 a.m. 2nd Floor at the El Cortez Hotel.

More info: www.clubrunner.ca/CPrg/home/homeS. asp?cid=4782.

San Felipe: Las Amigas Club Meeting. Second and fourth Wednesday each month at lodge Ocotillo, 10 a.m. More info: www.clublasamigas.com Baja California: Check out Mexico Living Calendar of Events. Know what is happening in your town and other areas of Baja. Plan a trip and Experiance Baja California and Let Mexico Living Help you have a great time! www.mexicolivingguide.com/en/ Calendar/tabid/65/Default.aspx. If you would like to submitt your envet for all of Baja to see, email calendar@mexicoliving.info.

63: Mystique 64: Part of some sailing vessels 66: Monorail unit 67: Part of PABA 68: Strongly advise 69: Silly pair?

70: Fender bender nicks 71: Barely manages, with ‘out’ Down 1: Ancient Egyptian emblems 2: Change 3: Colored eye part 4: Confession topic 5: Maker 6: Unused portion 7: Lightens, as a burden 8: Punish by fining 9: Mag. submissions 10: Too bad 11: Potpourri 12: Cell features 13: Budgets make them meet 18: Extended family 22: Subject of the biopic ‘Sweet Dreams’ 23: Sources of power for the daily grind?

25: Musclebound brute 26: Church recesses 27: Filthy stuff?

28: Swell up 29: Sis or bro

Mexico Living’s Baja California – February 2010

31: Quarrel 32: Strips 33: Sauce seasonings 36: Bounce up and down 39: Strikes from a proof 41: Stewing vessel 44: One’s good name, briefly 46: Bullfighters 49: Period of rule 51: Sit before a lens 53: Enter one’s computer password 55: Stuff to the gills 56: Throw hard 57: Spoken 59: Falls, as into a chair 60: Reserved parking space, e.g.

61: Roid or road follower 62: Tributes in verse 64: Streaking, once 65: Tint

Answers:

All ads must be placed online at www.mexicolivingforum.com. All Ads Must be posted by the last Friday of each month. All ads must be specific, no generic ads, All ads

www.mexicolivingguide.com

39

MEXICO LIVING Guide Pacific Baja & The Sea of Cortez PO Boxto 9019-460 Calexico, CA 92232

CALL US 1-877-LUVMEX1

February 2010 – Mexico Living’s Baja California

40