PLEASE TAKE ONE FREE/GRATIS No. 28 - www.mexicolivingguide.com
September / septiembre 2009
n a c i x Me e c n e d n e p e Ind y a D Eating Tacos
in Mexico
Sleeping Around in Baja & Sonora
LIVE • WORK • PLAY • INVEST • RETIRE
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Douglas
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San Quintin
PACIFIC OCEAN
Carborca GD
El Rosario
Santa Ana
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Bahia Santa Rosalillita
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BAHIA TORTUGAS Bahia Tortugas
www.mexicoliving.info
Bahia de Los Angeles
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Purple area represents the region covered in Mexico Living.
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Bahia de la Paz
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Cabo San Lucas 2 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
GD
San Jose del Cabo
Contents Welcome: Welcome to Northwest Mexico......................... 5 Contributors..................................................... 5 Reader’s Connection........................................ 6 Editor’s Angle.................................................. 6 Letters............................................................. 6 Q&A................................................................. 7 18 Reasons..................................................... 7
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Calendar & Events: Calendar.......................................................... 8 Rosarito Ensendad Bike Ride............................ 8 Cabo is “Open for Business”............................ 8 Mexican Independence Day.............................. 9 People & Voices: Baja Upside Down.......................................... 10 The Gypsy Journal......................................... 11 Say Adios to the Dog Days of Summer........... 11
Order Status is quick and simple. Visit our Order Status page, the easiest and fastest way to get the most current information regarding your current or past orders. If your order has been shipped via UPS, you may track it using links provided in your order detail.
Things to Do: Kayak Rocky Point................................................ 12
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n Guaran tio te
ac
e
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ee Guarant k c a B y one 100% M
www.MexicoLivingMarket.com
Sati sf
n Guaran tio te
Pets: MHTA: A Network of Animal Lovers in Baja..... 15 Transition Facility........................................... 15 Pet Adoption.................................................. 15
ac
e
Things to See: Mission of San Javier..................................... 14
sf
Fishing: Nautical Ladder Dead in the Water.................. 13 Photo of the Month........................................ 13 Ensenada Boat Launching.............................. 13
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Light-colored Mexico Living “Guide to the Good Life” T-shirts in a variety of styles and colors.
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Fun, and creative houseware products for your home or office.
Baseball caps and other hats in a variety of colors and designs.
Places to Eat: Augie’s Bar and Bait Shop.............................. 16 San Felipe and the Crab.................................. 16 Eating Tacos in Mexico................................... 17 Places to Stay: Sleeping Around in Baja and Sonora............... 18 Baja California............................................. 25 Idea for Boys and Girls Club........................... 25 Up on the Hill................................................. 27 Around Town in San Felipe............................. 30 Sanguinez Prison........................................... 35 Baja California Sur...................................... 36 Around Town in Loreto................................... 36 Around Town in La Paz................................... 37 Sonora.......................................................... 39 Around Town in Puerto Peñasco..................... 40 Rocky Point Fights Back................................. 42 Around Town in San Carlos............................ 43 Reader Gallery.............................................. 44 Classified...................................................... 45 Brain Games................................................. 46
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MEXICO LIVING Guide to Pacific Baja & The Sea of Cortez
USA: 800-576-0919 Ext. 3 Ensenada: 646-192-6965 San Felipe: 686-2314921 Puerto Peñasco: 638-388-5004 San Carlos: 622-111-2624 Rosarito: 661-614-3019 Website: www.mexicolivingguide.com Email: info@mexicoliving.info Mexico Living is a guide committed to promoting Northwest Mexico to the limits of our abilities and to provide a valuable resource to visitors and residents, while showing that Northwest Mexico is a great place not only to visit and play, but also to live and work—a place to call home. PLEASE TAKE ONE FREE/GRATIS
Mexican dence indepen day
Cover photo by Nic Taylor and Paige Morrison
Eating tacos in Mexico
slEEping around in Baja & Sonora
LIVE • WORK • PLAY • INVEST • RETIRE
Published by John Benjamin Pack
Publisher/Editor John Pack john@mexicoliving.info
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4 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Publisher Rachel Pack rachel@mexicoliving.info Editor, Brenda Judy, editor@mexicoliving.info Golf Editor, Hal “Paco” Clark, bajapaco@gmail.com Regional Sales Associates Carlos Duran Rosarito Beach carlos@mexicoliving.info
Bill Maine San Felipe billmaine@gmail.com
Rachel Pack Ensenada rachel@mexicoliving.info
Lynn Prince San Carlos lynnprinceformlg@gmail.com
Distribution Gene & Darcy Jensen, Regional Bill Maine, San Felipe Nuria Holly Bocanegra, Ensenada Carlos Duran, Gold Coast Russ Black, Puerto Penasco Writers Bob Ham, Carlos Durán, Russ Black, Naomi Black, Gretchen Ellinger, Penny Nask, Beverly Arrowood, Linda Shiflett, Carlos & Julia Bono, Lynn Prince, Steven Forman, Lisa Shannon, Steve Dryden, Alfonso Arambula, John Pack, Benjamin Eugene, Rachel Pack, Rita Pizarro, Audery Coffman, Ron Saunders, and Christa Thomas. Ad Graphics GreetScape adart@mexicoliving.info
Production Layout Carolyn Sheltraw info@csheltraw.com
Mexico Mailing Address: USA Mailing Address: Yetmail Box #460 PO Box 9019, PMB#460 San Felipe, B.C. Mexico 21850 Calexico, CA 92232
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher. All contributors and advertisers assume responsibility and liability for the accuracy of their statements and claims. All readers assume responsibility for actions or decisions they might make as a result of reading this publication. We reserve the right to refuse any advertising.
Welcome to Northwest Mexico
Live, Work and Play in Paradise.
T
he Mexican states of Baja California, Baja California Sur, and Sonora make up Northwest Mexico as covered by our guide. The region features an enormous diversity of landscapes like no place on earth—a land of quiet, colorful deserts, endless beaches, majestic mountains, forests, unexplained rock formations, brilliant clear skies, an average temperature of seventy-five degrees, and some of the most welcoming people in the world. Northwest Mexico is the destination of choice for retirees, investors, entrepreneurs, travelers, and vacationers alike. The U.S. State Department say more Americans retire in Mexico than any other place on the globe; 51% of all U.S. retirees who live outside of the U.S. live in Mexico. Mexico is economical; the dollar goes further here than it does in Europe, Canada, and the most popular destinations of Asia. The people of Mexico are accustomed to Americans and vice versa. Mexico welcomes American retirees and tourists and is increasingly prepared to offer the foods, goods, and services that Americans like and expect. Whether you’re looking to retire, invest, vacation, or operate a business, Northwest Mexico is the place. We hope our guide helps you to enjoy Northwest Mexico to the fullest. Explore! Mexico, visitmexico.com
WHAT DO I NEED?
Passport. On June 1, 2009, the U.S. government implemented the full requirements of the land and sea phase of WHTI. The new rules require most U.S. citizens entering the United States at sea or land ports of entry to have a passport, passport card, or other travel document approved by the Department of Homeland Security. Additional information can be found at: http://travel.state.gov/passport What can I bring into Mexico?
As you approach the order, there are generally multiple lanes labeled “Nothing to Declare - Nada que Declarar” and “Declaration Lane - Carril de Declaración.” Nothing to Declare Lane This lane is used when you are bringing, as a tourist (FMT) $75 or less. Your personal luggage and other merchandise up to the allowed exemption US $75 per person. The amount is cumulative per number of person in the vehicle. For example two people would have a $150 exemption. You must have receipts and invoices to qualify for the exemption. Personal Items Allowed: • New or used such as clothes, shoes and toiletries in quantities that would be considered not for resale. • Two photographic or video cameras and charger. • Two cellular phones or walkie-talkies, • Laptop, notebook, etc. • Two sports equipment items. • Portable radio recorder and/or player, speakers and accessories. • Five laser discs, 10 DVDs, 30 CDs or cassette tapes. Five storage devices or memory cards. • Books and magazines in quantities that would be considered not for resale.
• Five toys, video game console and video games • Medicine for personal use, one blood pressure instrument, one glucose testing device. In the case of psychotropic drugs, make sure you bring the prescription. Note: Be careful not to bring a large quantity of your prescription medication. • One set of binoculars, one telescope. • 2 (two) cartons of cigarettes, 25 cigars or 200 grams of tobacco if you are of age if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties). • Up to three liters of liquor and six liters of wine (if bringing more than allowed, you must declare it and pay duties). • Strollers and baby walkers • Two musical instruments and accessories. • Tent and equipment for camping. • Crutches, canes, walkers, and wheelchairs for personal use. • Tool sets including hand drills, wire cutters, wrenches, screwdrivers, cables, etc. • Bedding sets including one sheet set, one towel set, a set of table linens. • Two dogs or cats and pet items. • Up to $10,000 in US currency or equivalent in other currencies, foreign or national checks, and/or other monetary instruments. Declaration Lane ($75 - $1000) If you are bringing more than US $75 worth of merchandise per person, but not more than US $1000, you may declare it by driving into the customs facility thru the declaration lane (carril de declaración). There you will be able to fill out the proper documents and pay any duty. Duty can be between 15% and 25% of the value of the merchandise.
IMPORTANT NOTES:
• Guns are illegal in Mexico. Do not attempt to cross the border with a gun and/or ammunition. You will be put in jail even if you were not aware of the Mexican law. • If you have more than $10,000 in US currency or equivalent or other monetary instruments you must declare this with Mexican customs, otherwise it is a crime. • You must declare if you are bringing any animals, agricultural products, medicine other than personal use. • Amounts over US $1000 require the use of a Mexican customs broker.
WHAT CAN I TAKE HOME? You can bring back 800 USD of duty-free merchandise per person, per month, including one liter of alcohol. Mexican arts and crafts, including handcrafted furniture, are duty-free and do not count toward the 800 USD limit. VEHICLE PERMITS
Tourists traveling with their vehicle beyond the border zone north of Ensenada, San Felipe or Puerto Peñasco must obtain a temporary import permit or risk having their vehicle confiscated by Mexican customs officials. MILITARY CHECKPOINTS
There are military checkpoints along the way to all the Northwest border cities. These check points serve the same purpose as the California and Arizona highway inspection stops you’ll encounter on the return north. The soldiers will be carrying weapons, but there is nothing to be concerned about, the soldiers are looking for drugs and guns. You’ll find them to be polite and friendly. They may ask to look inside your vehicle or RV. Check points on both sides of the border, are an agreement between the United States and Mexico to fight drugs.
Contributors
Featured Contributor
Mexico Living is only possible through the continued contributions from all these knowledgeable and talented people. If you would like to become a contributor, please email mexicoliving@gmail.com
Over the past decade, Hooked on Baja author, Tom Gatch, has built a solid reputation as one of the foremost authors and photographers focusing on outdoor and recreational topics in southern California and the Baja California peninsula. Tom’s widely read “South of the Border” column and articles appear in each edition of The Log, SoCal’s #1 Boating & Fishing newspaper, and his popular “Hooked on Baja” column is published in the Baja Times, Baja Norte’s oldest English language newspaper.
Lisa Shannon, San Felipe – A frequent visitor to San Felipe since 2007. Lisa has been involved in printing and graphic design for over two decades. She enjoys working hard to establish a good life for herself, her partner, Bill Maine, and their two dogs. lisa@mexicoliving.info
Dann Manz – Originally from Michigan, Dann moved to La Bufadora, near Ensenada, about four years ago. He worked for the Michigan Dept. of Natural Resources, Fisheries Division, for 16 years. He is also a taxidermist, but his main interest is fishing, which he does 4–5 days a week. Ocean fishing is relatively new to him, but that’s just making it even more challenging.
La Huerita – La Huerita has spent more than two decades living in and visiting Mexico. An artist and writer, she and her husband operated an online travel magazine for nearly a decade—until they noticed they were doing more writing than traveling. Their philosophy: When it stops being fun, stop doing it. She now operates the blog Rocky Point Tides, and she’s having fun!
Steven Forman, San Felipe – Nicknamed “DogMan” by folks around San Felipe, Steven Forman came to San Felipe in 2003. Steven says the reason he came to San Felipe was to get involved in humane animal work. bajaanimalrescue@yahoo.com
Tom is also a seasoned restaurant reviewer, whose mouthwatering descriptions of popular regional restaurants have provocatively stimulated the appetite of many a reader. His company, EL PUERTO Creative Consultants S.A. de C.V. provides professional copywriting and creative support for entities in both the United States and Baja California. Both he and his wife, photographer Lynn Gatch, are full-time Baja California residents, and live just south of the city of Ensenada.
Lynn Hamman, Loreto – Born in Sacramento, CA, Lynn and her husband, Randy, have five children and seven grandchildren. They traveled the U.S. looking for a place to retire and decided on Loreto, Mexico. She’s a webmaster for Hidden Port Yacht Club, a volunteer at the University, and operates a rental business, Hamman’s Vacaciones, www.stayinloreto.com.
Rita Pizarro, Puerto Peñasco – In addition to freelance writing, Rita also offers vacation rentals by owner, massage, home inspections, yoga, kite surfing, pet sitting and adventure camps. It seems like a lot, but it fits her active lifestyle. ritapizarro@gmail.com Carlos Durán, Playas de Rosarito – Born in Calexico. Carlos owned a Latino publication for the Long Beach/LA area for five years. Today he is a dual citizen and enjoys traveling the peninsula as often as possible. bajayadayada@gmail.com Sean Harrington, San Felipe – An entrepreneur looking for a fresh canvas to apply strokes to, Sean would like to see San Felipe flourish in a sustainable way. Think globally, act locally. Sean does real estate consulting, massage, photography, writes the local weather for Mexico Living online and runs a segunda out of his home.
John Ashman, La Paz – Married to a Paseña (La Paz dweller), John divides his time between writing, doing audio/video work and flipping cheesesteaks. He’s also thankful that his wife, Carmina, helps him do research for his articles. john@
Rosie Glover, Puerto Peñasco – Rosie grew up in Pitiquito, Sonora, and Los Angeles, CA. She owns ProAlliance Insurance and the Rocky Point News Online; organizes Uncommon Women on Common Ground events and sits on the board for Peñasco Healthcare Foundation. rosie@proalliance.com.mx
Lynn Prince, San Carlos / Guaymas – Lynn is a researcher and freelance journalist, and the fundraising event coordinator for Casa de Hogar orphanage in Guaymas. She was the feature editor and staff writer for the San Carlos Times/Tribune. lynnprinceformlg@gmail.com
Stockton Hill – After losing the love of his life early, Stockton decided he needed a big change and left Sevenoaks, England, for the Gulf of Mexico. He found his new love— Mexico, its people and culture, and has been exploring the amazing places, as well as eating his way around the country, every since.
audiobaja.com
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 5
’S R O T LE I D E NG A
Exciting News!
If you recall, it was merely two months ago that I introduced myself. At that time, I asked for your comments, suggestions and honest feedback. Well, you know that old saying, “Be careful of what you wish for”? Guess what . . . I made the right wish! Over the course of eight weeks, you have bombarded us with letters and emails . . . WE LOVE IT! You have shared article ideas, feedback on previously published stories, and basically have told us what you think about Mexico Living and what you want in YOUR GUIDE TO THE GOOD LIFE. As a result of all your input, I have the GREATEST news since Mexico Living started publishing: 1. Beginning with this edition (if you hadn’t already noticed), your best guide to Baja and Sonora is FREE! 2. We’ve increased our distribution. You can find the guide EVERYWHERE! 3. There’s a LARGER variety of articles, sections, columns, photos, maps, and much, much more! 4. The pages are BIGGER, the images are bigger . . . everything is bigger! 5. And, on top of that, you can run your classified ad FREE OF CHARGE!
Our goal is to inform, entertain and promote the good life in Baja and Sonora. We try to illustrate through articles and images that Mexico is not only one of the best destinations in the world to vacation, but also to live, work, play and invest. Over the last several weeks, you have sent in some fabulous article ideas, which hit on each of those areas. And, yes, we have journalists working on most of them as we speak. So, be sure to check out the “Letters” to find out what others have to say and what you can look forward to reading in upcoming editions. Thank YOU for your letters. It’s been your support that makes us the most read publication for Pacific Baja and along the coast of the Sea of Cortez. We’re excited about telling more people about Baja and Sonora and are thrilled to have the opportunity to grow with you in our Mexican paradise. THANK YOU for helping us make all of this possible!
Be careful what you wish for . . .
P.S. As always, I’m interested in hearing from you, what you think of Mexico Living and any ideas or comments you may have to improve YOUR GUIDE TO THE GOOD LIFE. So, send your suggestions and comments to editor@mexicoliving.info.
Reader Connection st Ir o n y a t it s B e mocratic Creigh Deeds, De rnor of ve Go r nominee fo one of his ed nd te at , Virginia with U.S. ts fundraising even August in a President Obam l that te ho e m sa at the very se just ven he had picketed months ago.
R ea de r Tid bi ts
Cha nce Enc oun ter s – Through the good fortune of travel and the generosity of friends made on the road, my husband, Hank, and I find ourselves enjoyng a quiet three weeks housesitting in San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico. Who knew when I met Bob & Lyn Shee dy (www.planetbob.com) on a flight to Barbados in 2003 that five years later they’d find my business card tucked into a suitcase and reconnect. Who knew that they’d end up spending three months in our casita in Ajijic, Jalis co, Mexico, or that we’d end up keeping their cat, Meo w-Meow, and bird, Bud, company in their desert home in Baja.
For those of us who travel, chance enco unters that transform into lifelong frien dships are neve r a surprise and, in fact, one of the nices id sa ” h, t perks. Not to mention, a trip to the beac “This is ric ia in h! rg Vi of Republican Party —Ellen Barone h ig re “C s. Chairman Mullin t know probably doesn’ a sign and star t and ab gr ld if he shou or go on inside wn the sidewalk do ry.” d da an an qu up a g t in march donors. Wha m fro ks ec ch t star t grabbing fa rolina —BJ, North Ca
Guide on the Go NASA has confirmed that Mexico Living will begin distribution on the moon in October just in time for Halloween. Bill Maine will be the first salesman to go to the moon and establish the new
Letters How Does It Work? I have a question for the editor. If I decide to move to Mexico, then what do I do with my money? Do I move it all to a bank in Mexico? How secure is that? I know in Honduras you can put money in a bank, but can withdraw only so much at a time—is that the way it is in Mexico? How safe is my money there? I’m retired so can I do direct deposit to a Mexican bank, or do I leave the direct deposit where it is and then have it transferred to my Mexican bank? What interest rate do they pay there? Is it as bad as it is here in the U.S.? How trustworthy are the banks as far as doing the exchange rate correctly? Bottom line: How likely am I to be ripped off in Mexico? P.S. I love the magazine. Thanks for your assistance. —Steve J., Florida, USA Steve . . . WOW! When you ask a question, you ask a question! You’ve asked so many fabulous questions that not only do we have a journalist working on your answers as we speak, we’ll be answering questions you didn’t even ask for months to come. I know that our journalist has already provided you with some valuable resources, but while you’re waiting on the article: YES . . . Move the money to Mexico and leave an account in the States, although not necessary. There are many banks available in Mexico; they also offer everything you have in a U.S. banks; VISA and MC, ATMs, savings accounts, checking accounts, business and personal loans, etc., and the banks of Mexico are some of the biggest banks in the world. Lighthouse Lounge I just read the Lighthouse Lounge advertisement in the August edition of Mexico Living and I want to commend, compliment and thank them for using their advertising budget to help promote the Lions Club’s major fundraising activities. As a Lions Club member and past president, and local businessman, I appreciate the initiative they have taken to do their part in promoting not only their business and San Felipe tourism but the efforts of the Lions Club as well. The San Felipe BC Lions Club encourages all its members to patronize our members’ businesses and their reciprocal actions are proof that we all can indeed work together and support each other to enhance business opportunities and our charitable activities to bring a brighter tomorrow for all of us in this sleepy little fishing village that we call home. —Hal “Paco” Clark Hal, thank you so much for acknowledging the Lighthouse for their support of the community. Subscription Fees Congratulations for getting your new community forum up and running. I’d like to suggest that you consider pricing a subscription where the delivered product is a pdf file. I see this as an option for faster delivery and lower postal costs. Originally I would read your magazine via the pdf download. I have no problem paying for the pdf download, but the $35/year seems somewhat steep. Maybe there is a way to expand your readership other than just locally buying your magazine at retail outlets for $2. Thanks for a great magazine! —Jeff C.
marketing territory.
EVERYONE has a funny or embarrasing story, joke or tidbit to share with the world. Send your jokes, tidbits, anecdotes and “Guide on the Go” photos to photos@mexicoliving.info and put a bit of sunshine in someone’s day! All contributions may be edited for content and language. 6 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Jeff, as you can see, your wish is our demand. The guide is now FREE in Mexico and via the Internet. However, if you’re like me, and like to read hard copy, then we at least need to cover our shipping and handling costs. So . . . ENJOY!
QUESTION: What is this spider? The photo is of a spider that is fairly common in the San Felipe, BC, Mexico, region. Locally it is called a “deer spider” or “baby killer” and various other names. It is supposedly very poisonous. I can’t find anything about it using the names above or any pictures that match (it doesn’t come up under “Baja Poisonous Insects”). I’m tired of the local legends that are usually incorrect. Thanks in advance for your help.
EXPERT ANSWERS
Dr. Davidson, Research Professor, School of Life Sciences, Arizona State University First, it isn’t a spider, it’s a Solpugid or windscorpion. Ours locally (Arizona) don’t have such long legs, but otherwise look much the same. They are NOT poisonous, although according to the Werner and Olson book
Submitted by Jack Ragsdale, San Felipe
(Insects of the Southwest, very useful!), they are sometimes called “deer killers”—old Spanish superstition. The reason it looks like it has 10 legs is the first pair are really modified pedipalps that do not have claws in this group but are used for gripping walls. Carl A. Olson, Associate Curator, Dept. of Entomology, University of Arizona Solpugids (aka windscorpion, sunscorpion, windspider, sunspider, camelspider) are not poisonous (bad term), venomous or anything else. They do have huge chelicerae (mouthparts) that can rip and tear apart their prey, insects and the like, but not people, deer or camels. Chelicerae work as pairs in a vertical plane different from most insect mandibles. Spiders have chelicerae, but they are fused and end in fangs attached to venom sacs that do allow them to envenomate prey. Solpugids have eight walking or better running
legs because they are a “run down the food” type predator, thus very fast. That is partly where the “deer killer” legend comes into play. Observed by the not so observant, they are said to be able to run down a deer and jump (yeah right) on it, then bite with those chelicerae and envenomate and, thus, kill the deer. Don’t know what they do with it after that . . . but in Spanish they are known
as “mata venado” or deer killer. Those front armlike structures called pedipalps function like antennae on insects, plus they have an evertible suction like structure at the end of each pedipalp that allows them to climb up glass. These are mostly arid land animals, and, thus, are also found in the Middle East, Iraq, Iran, etc. Over there they call them camel spiders for equally stupid reasons, because they are supposed to jump onto camels, chew the hide until the guts fall out and then . . . Also, they supposedly sneak into oases where camel drivers sleep, anesthetize the face and eat it. Also you may read delightful stories of people waking in the morning to huge gouged out areas on their leg where these animals supposedly chewed during the evening without awakening the victims. Real well-founded biology for sure!
18 Reasons why Mexico is the Most Underrated Travel Destination in the World by Becky Youman, http://vacations.com/
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Swine Flu is really not that big a
deal
Yes, people have died, and for their families it is more than horrible—it sucks. But, let’s put things in perspective. The “regular” flu kills about 36,000 people in the U.S. annually. H1N1 has killed 263 people here to date. Besides, H1N1 has spread all over the world now, so you can get it just as easily in Manhattan as in Mexico City.
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Swine Flu was “planted” anyway Rumors swirled around Mexico City when the outbreak started that swine flu was part of a global plot to distract people from the international economic crisis. My favorite was one claimed that the whole thing was planned at the Global London Summit in April. Ummm . . . right.
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Your dollar goes further For most of 2008 you could get about 10 Mexican pesos for 1 U.S. dollar. Now that same U.S. dollar gets you 13 to 15 pesos depending on the day. Meaning, that a 350 peso bottle of Herradura Tequila doesn’t cost $35 USD anymore, it’s only $23. Cha-ching.
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Every Day is Spring Break Okay, not really, but you have a good excuse to turn off your phone and make yourself unreachable—those roaming fees in Mexico will kill you. My friend forgot to turn off her roaming when she went to Puerto Vallarta for a week and had a $500 phone bill. Ouch.
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Not all of Mexico is Tijuana Let’s be frank—there is a State Department travel advisory out about Mexico right now. But making blanket advisories about an entire country is like saying don’t go to Ft. Lauderdale when there are riots in Los Angeles. The areas that most Americans frequent—Cancun, Cozumel, Riviera Maya, Puerto Vallarta, Cabo, etc.—are still out of harm’s way and are safer than parts of the United States.
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Other Mexico destinations are
okay too if you are smart about it Even away from the tourist centers there are lots of places that are still fine to visit. Just be smart. Don’t take taxis off the street in Mexico City. Don’t wave around a bunch of bling or fistfuls of Franklins. Don’t drive off into the mountains of Sinaloa looking for adventure. I’d probably stay away from Tijuana, Nogo, and Cuidad Juarez as well, but that’s just me.
There are tons of deals There are so many travel deals to be found in Mexico right now it is insane. Airlines and hotels are deeply discounted. If you book a package that combines air and hotel, the markdowns are even steeper. A quick check of the internet just brought up a deal to Cabo for four nights at a 4 Star allinclusive hotel (yes, “all-inclusive” means alcohol too) plus airline tickets for $500.
No jet lag Unlike Europe, or even Hawaii, if you go to Mexico you are not going to be more than a couple hours, if any, out of your time zone at home. That means you can hit the ground running.
It’s close and easy to get there There are direct flights to the Mexican tourist areas from almost all of the major cities in the United States. Flight times are so short from much of the country that you barely have time to get sauced on the plane. That’s okay though, because there will be plenty more opportunities for imbibing at that allinclusive resort.
Delicioso food Your motto might be “Yo quiero Taco Bell,” but that Taco Bell chihuahua just died of a stroke. When you are in Mexico, you should man up and stretch your culinary palate further than tacos and burritos. If you are in Cancun, seek out some cochinita pibil, a slow-roasted pork dish traditional in the Yucatán. Think Mayan barbeque. It’s awesome.
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Good beer Be the Corona commercial. Tecate, Sol, Pacifico, XX-lager and Corona are all light pilsners that do the job when it’s hot outside and you need refreshment. There are some lesser-known regional cervezas that are worth a taste as well. Carta Blanca is popular in the north of the country, Estrella in Jalisco, and Leon is found mostly in the southeast. Tall-boys, which are actually shaped more like fat-boys in Mexico, are called ballenas (literally “whales”).
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Even better tequila Repeat after me, “Jose Cuervo Gold is caca.” It is 49 percent sugar mixed in with fermented agave juice. The sugar gives you really bad hangovers. When you drink tequila, which you should, it needs to be 100 percent agave. Check the label. If it is 100 percent agave, it will say so. Don’t drink it if it’s not. By the way, no tequila has a worm in it. That’s mescal.
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You don’t have to worry about crowds Mexico is pretty much wide open right now. There should be availability anywhere you want to go because everybody else is staying home, worried about the aforementioned swine flu and drug wars. What are they thinking?
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Cheap plastic surgery Just kidding. Well, they really do have cheap plastic surgery, but I’m not touting that as a reason to head down there.
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Cool stuff to do You can find just about any type of adventure activity somewhere in Mexico. There are the obvious
sur fing, diving and snorkeling at the beach, but most resort areas also offer mountain biking, horseback trips, and zip-lining too. You can even summit 18,490-foot Pico de Orizaba. Or you can sit on the beach or in a town square and drink beer all day. That works too.
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People are in “Party Mode” When people go to Mexico, they tend to really loosen up. You saw the first episode of Entourage Season Five, right? Even Turtle is hooking up. Hombre—what happens en México stays en México.
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Interesting ruins and bloody
history
Mexico has a ton of cool ruins to explore. You definitely get a kind of visceral reaction from standing on a spot where sacrifices were made hundreds of years ago. Pretty much every state in Mexico has some ruins, so no matter where you go there is really no excuse.
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Spanglish is a language Even if you barely passed that year of high school Spanish, you can easily get by in Mexico. Most people in the tourism industry speak at least some English. It’s a nice gesture to try to speak a little Spanish though . . . hola, gracias, cerveza and baño will pretty much do the trick. Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 7
IMPORTANT DATES Sep. 1: Annual State of the Union Sep. 15–16: Mexican Independence Celebration Oct. 31: Halloween
LOCAL MONTHLY EVENTS
See the Community Calendar on www.mexicolivingguide.com for a weekly schedule of events for each city.
PLAYAS DE ROSARITO Sep. 2: Fall Motocross Series Round 1. A specially designed race track with jumps and obstacles in a circuit of approximately two miles. (619) 819-6323 Sep 5: XXII Mexican Food Festival. Noon–10 p.m. at the Festival Plaza Hotel. (661) 612-0700 Sep. 17 and Oct 13: Portofino Restaurant Pairing Dinner. $38, 7 p.m. at the Hotel Festival Plaza. Reservation required. (800) 453-8606 Sep. 26: Rosarito Ensenada Bike Ride. A 50mile bicycle ride along the Pacific Coast and inland through rural countryside, then a Fiesta until sunset. (800) 282-9352 Sep. 27: IX Steak And Lobster Festival. (661) 612-0700 Oct. 3: Fall Motocross Series Round 2. A specially designed race track with jumps and obstacles in a circuit of approximately two miles. (619) 819-6323 Oct. 11: Puerto Nuevo Festival. (800) 962-2252 Oct. 17: Flamenco Night. Cover $10. (800) 343-8582, www.rosaritobeachhotel.com
ENSENADA Sep. 26: Rosarito Ensenada Bike Ride. A 50mile bicycle ride along the Pacific Coast and inland through rural countryside, then a Fiesta until sunset. (800) 282-9352 Nov. 19–22: Tecate SCORE Baja 1000
SAN FELIPE Sep. 15–16: Fiesta Patrias San Felipe 2009 Sep. 16: Sand Drags Sep. 20: Casa de Fe Orphanage Fundraiser at Lighthouse Restaurant. Tickets are $15 and includes hors d’oeuvres. Live music and Raffle! Contact Carol at (686) 577-3176 or www.casadefe.info Sep. 22: Shrimp season begins. Oct. 10: Too Much Fun Pete’s Camp Poker Run. renel@petescamp.com or (951) 694-6704 Oct. 16–17: Tequila Festival at Lighthouse Lounge. 2–11 p.m. www.lighthousetequilafestival.com or (686) 577-2540 Oct. 23: Tequila Tasting. 2 p.m. Try the Reposado, Anejo or EXTRA Anejo. (686) 209-0074 8 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Rosarito Ensenada Bike Ride
Ride or Just Party!
Rosarito Ensenada is 50-mile bicycle ride along the Pacific Coast and inland through rural countryside from Rosarito Beach to Ensenada, ending with a Finish Line Fiesta on the Ensenada waterfront with food, drinks and live music. This scenic and award-winning race takes place two times per year, April and September, and is open to all ages and experience levels. Rosarito Ensenada attracts cyclists from all over the world and all walks of life. You will be amused by the colorful costumes and funny bikes that people create. Some people will ride this race on tandem bikes or even beach cruisers. If you are a serious rider, they offer an “Elite Start.” The elite start allows experienced bikers that average at least 17 mph and will most likely finish in less than three hours an opportunity to pay a little extra to start in front of the pack. The extra fee for Elite Status gets you a unique entry number, allowing you entry into the Elite Corral and a better timing position for the gun start. The Elite Start makes the event safer and more enjoyable for everyone. Top riders have finished this event in less than two hours. There are many stops along the way if you get tired, and along the entire course there are bars and places filled with riders stopping to have a few beers. It could be said that the Rosarito Ensenada Bike Ride is a 50-mile party. The race is pretty easy; however, it is long. The only hard part is a two- mile hill called “El Tigre.” This is when you wish you did not drink all those beers! El Tigre starts at sea level and climbs over 800 feet. This hill separates the strong from the weak. If you decide to walk up this hill, don’t be embarrassed, because you will not be alone. After El Tigre it is all downhill until you coast into Ensenada for an all-night party. Once you arrive in Ensenada, there is a huge party with food from Ensenada’s finest restaurants, beer provided by Corona and live music. The Tecate girls are always in full force as well. At the finish line you can get massages, posters, T-shirts and other souvenirs. There is even secure bike storage. The Finish Line Fiesta is located at Plaza Ventana al Mar, on Boulevard Lazaro Cárdenas, under the giant Mexican flag. The official time of the fiesta is noon until sunset; however, the bars and nightclubs
will be partying until the sun comes up. The finish line party will be packed not only by the 10,000 bikers that enter the race, but there is always spectators, friends and family that join the celebration. It is estimated that over 25,000 people will be at the finish line waiting for the party to start. We’re celebrating our 30th Anniversary! So, please join us for our next ride on September 26.
Cabo is “Open for Business” . . . and “We are inviting the World to Visit” This is the time to promote Mexico . . . to combat the negative publicity about the economy, the violence and the swine flu; to draw first-time visitors and to invite old friends back to make sure that our Paradise gets back on its feet! EvergreenCSL and Caboguy.com are organizing the Mexico Living Expo to showcase tourism and investment opportunities in Mexico and specifically Los Cabos, which will be held in Vancouver, Canada, October 10 and 11. A PowerPoint presentation will explain the expo and the benefits of participating; email ask@caboguy.com to request a copy. We selected Vancouver because it is the host city for the Olympic Winter Games in February 2010; international media and visitors will be there prior to, during and after the games. Our relationship with the Olympic organizing committee will ensure the media and officials of the games will attend the expo. We are associated with an investment club with over 7,000 members, all of whom will receive a personal invitation to attend the Mexico Living Expo. The large Asian and alternative lifestyle communities will be invited to attend as well—huge resources of people who eventually will find their way to Mexico, so we might as well introduce them to Cabo! Mexico Living Expo is only a few weeks away, and we are confident that it will generate immediate interest for people to attend the event and plan a visit to Cabo. For further information, please contact Brian Blackburn at (624) 157-6445 or email ask@caboguy.com.
Mexican Independence Day: September 16
The Mexican War of Independence (1810– 1821) was an armed conflict between the people of Mexico and the Spanish colonial authorities that started on September 16, 1810. The Mexican War of Independence movement was led by Mexicanborn Spaniards, Mestizos and Amerindians who sought independence from Spain. It started as an idealistic peasants’ rebellion against their colonial masters, but finally ended as an unlikely alliance between liberals and conservatives. It can be said that the struggle for Mexican independence dates back to the decades after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire, when Martín Cortés, son of Hernán Cortés and La Malinche, led a revolt against the Spanish colonial government in order to eliminate the issues of oppression and privileges for the conquistadors. After the abortive Conspiracy of the Machetes in 1799, the War of Independence led by the Mexican-born Spaniards became a reality. The movement for independence was far from gaining unanimous support among Mexicans, who became divided between independentists, autonomists and loyalists. Beginning of the War After conspiracy was betrayed by a supporter, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla declared war against the colonial government late on the night of September 15, 1810, in what has become known as the Grito de Dolores. On the dawn of September 16, the revolutionary army decided to strike for independence and marched on to Guanajuato, a major colonial mining center governed by Spaniards and criollos. There the leading citizens barricaded themselves in the granary. The rebel army captured the granary on September 28, and most of the Spaniards and criollos were massacred or exiled. On October 30, 1810, Hidalgo’s army encountered Spanish resistance at the Battle of Monte de las Cruces, fought them and achieved victory. However, the rebel army failed to defeat the large and heavily armed Spanish army in Mexico City. Rebel survivors of the battle sought refuge in nearby provinces and villages. The insurgent forces planned a defensive strategy at a bridge on the Calderón River, pursued by the Spanish army. In January 1811, Spanish forces fought the Battle of the Bridge of Calderón and defeated the
insurgent army, forcing the rebels to flee toward the United States-Mexican border, where they hoped to escape. However, they were intercepted by the Spanish army and Hidalgo and his remaining soldiers were captured in the state of Jalisco, in the region known as “Los Altos.” He faced court trial before the Inquisition and was found guilty of treason. He was executed by a firing squad in Chihuahua, on July 30, 1811. His body was mutilated, and his head was displayed in Guanajuato as a warning to Mexican rebels.
Oct. 9–11: Angler of the Year Tourney (Phase III) at JJ’s Cantina. www.jjscantina.com
against the troops of Guerrero in Oaxaca, to crush the rebellion once and for all. But this campaign coincided with the successful Liberal revolution in Spain and the beginning of the Spanish Civil War, 18201823. The conservative Iturbide saw this as a threat to the status quo and turned toward the notion of autonomy for Mexico, led by the criollos, as a way to preserve the colonial system. Iturbide approached Vincente Guerrero to join forces, which resulted in the Plan of Iguala and the formation of the Army of the Three Guarantees. The Plan of Iguala was a peace treaty and had three main goals, these included the establishment of Roman Catholicism, the proclamation of Mexico’s independence, and social equality for all social and ethnic groups in the new country. These goals were summarized as “Religion, Independence and Unity” (Religión, Independencia y Unión). Agustín de Iturbide’s army was joined by rebel forces from all over Mexico. When the rebels’ victory became certain, the Jefe Político Superior of New Spain, Juan O’Donojú, resigned. On August 24, 1821, representatives of the Spanish crown and Iturbide signed the Treaty of Córdoba, which recognized Mexican independence under the terms of the Plan of Iguala, ending three centuries of Spanish colonial rule. Between 1823 and 1829 Spain made some attempts to regain Mexico, the most important being the invasion from Cuba by an army of 3,000 men under Isidro Barradas in 1829. Spain finally recognized Mexican independence in 1830. Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mexican_ War_of_Independence
Oct. 31: Bathtub Races at JJ’s Cantina. www.jjscantina.com Nov. 5–6: Rocky Point Annual Bike Rally. www.rockypointrally.com
SAN CARLOS Sep. 18–19 and Nov. 27–28: A Blast From the Past. The Retro Rockets perform live on the beach. FREE admission. www.SonoraIsSafe.com. Oct. 16–17: George Howards R&B Soul Review performs live on the beach. FREE admission. www.SonoraIsSafe.com.
LORETO Sep. 4: Santa Rosalia Foundation Festivities. Come celebrate with us! Sep. TBA: Our Lady of Loreto Festivities. Annual event celebrating the founding of the city of Loreto and Mission Nuestro Señora de Loreto (1697). Sep. 15-16: Loreto 400 Car Race. The course is a classic desert off-road race. The route includes Comondú, San Javier and the old towns of La Giganta mountain range.
Declaration of Independence Following the death of Father Hidalgo, the leadership of the revolutionary army was assumed by José María Morelos. Under his leadership the cities of Oaxaca and Acapulco were occupied. In 1813, the Congress of Chilpancingo was convened and on November 6 of that year, the Congress signed the first A statue of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla in official document of independence, front of the church known as the Solemn Act of the in Dolores Hidalgo, Declaration of Independence of Guanajuato. Northern America. It was followed by a long period of war at the Siege of Cuautla. In 1815, Morelos was captured by Spanish colonial authorities, tried and executed for treason in San Cristóbal Ecatepec on December 22. Independence Between 1815 and 1821 the Independence War became a guerrilla war, led by three caudillos: Guadelupe Victoria in Puebla, Vicente Guerrero in Oaxaca and the liberal Spaniard Francisco Javier Mina in the center. Javier Mina, encouraged by Servando Teresa de Mier, landed at Soto la Marina and raised an army, but was defeated a few months later and executed near Pénjamo. Having lost yet another leader, the insurgency was near collapse. They were also faced by the hostility of the criollos, who preferred Spanish rule over the excessive violence displayed by the rebels. In 1820 Viceroy Juan Ruiz de Apodaca sent an army, under the criollo general Agustín de Iturbide
Oct 19-25: Fiestas de la Fundación de Loreto. The foundation of the city is celebrated. It is one of the most important cultural events in the state.
LA PAZ Sep. 4: Torneo de Pesca Bisbee’s Sportfishing Tournament Offshore Circuit. www.bajatournaments.com Oct. 12: Todos Santos Festivities. Come and get the feeling of this old town! Nov. 1–15: La Paz Construction Fair. This is a great show and an opportunity to come and see the best construction of the upcoming developments in Baja. Nov. 1: Valle 300 Car Race. Everyone is invited to this big off-road race.
CABO SAN LUCUS Sep. 1–31: Baja Sea Turtle Rescue. To get exact date, call (800)727-2252. Oct. 12: Cabo San Lucas Festivities. Big town festival, and you HAVE to be there. Oct. 13–17: Los Cabos Billfish Tournament. Playa Grande Resort from 7:30 a.m.– 4:30 p.m. Photo by Paige Morrison
Photo by Thelmadatter
Municipal president giving the “grito” of “Viva Mexico” at the commencement of Independence Day festivities at 11 pm 15 Sept 2008 in Ixmiquilpan, Hidalgo.
PUERTO PEÑASCO
Oct. 21–23: Off-Shore Bisbee Tournament. Come and get that big marlin!
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 9
PEOPLE & VOICES
Centavo’s Two Cents
10 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Centavo aka Pamela Esther Nask (“Penny”) Co-owner of Simpatico Arts, she is a writer and an art historian, whose luck in these fields has given her an early retirement. She attributes “laughter” as the best possible stimulus for life. pennynask@yahoo.com
Photo by Penny Nask
It’s summer. It’s hot. But, our friends could only get away from their work at this time. Road trip. Four adults and a four year old. We promised. Let’s do it. Two weeks. I told myself that I was still up for adventure. After all, I had fabricated myself into Jim Bowie, Davy Crockett, the Hardy Boys, Circus Boy, the man on Sea Hunt, the Rifleman, and Paladin . . . all those ‘50s characters. So much of my idle youth had been spent at the TV . . . then into the woods by my house where I recreated my own daring adventures until nightfall. Summer defied reasonable behavior. I could be gone for hours without supervision, without worry and without any real weaponry . . . no problem. I could improvise. Yes, Mexico has had bad press. Danger lurked around vacations that had been meticulously planned and then cautiously canceled. We knew the truth. There was nothing to fear except a possible flat tire. So, off we went with our maps and our gear. We would cover miles and miles of Baja roads from San Felipe to Cabo and then back up the Pacific Coast! If you live in Baja, somewhere in your conversations you end up saying, “We’d love to travel down the coast someday.” . . . We were making it a reality! As my 200 plus odd pictures will confirm, the Baja coastline and the towns surrounding it are beyond minimal description. When you are told that no man has ever climbed or lived in some of the mountain ranges you are viewing, you believe it. Your romantic idea of adventure quickly turns into the astonishment of survival. You are glad that you have food, drinks, gas and air conditioning in your car; a foreign spectacle in this sanctified space. You count on it working till your next stop. I would like to believe that I would have explored the area, fished for my food, rode a donkey to the cave paintings, chatted with the locals to get their histories and slept under the stars. The Lone Ranger would have done it that way. It turned out that it was just as interesting traveling with a child that knew no boundaries and had to be reminded to be careful of things. That would be our biggest adventure and pleasure . . . the careful pursuit of her enjoyment as opposed to our histories of disaster in the real world. A man walked the whole Baja peninsula and wrote a book about it. I thought of him a lot. It could have been a lonely and dangerous trip. Nature must have been his enemy and his friend. In Cabo we were at the end of the peninsular world, excited beyond belief in a glass bottom watercraft! Surrounding us were a dozen other boats. There were groups in kayaks, snorkelers everywhere, folks on the tiny beach, people parasailing. The smallness of the end of our land mass was evident and so was the desire of others to be there. Centuries of exploration, at so many levels, made it understandable that a rock formation could look like Scooby- Doo or Baja upside down. Cortez’s unjaded view of Baja in 1533 must have been staggering!
PEOPLE & VOICES
The Gypsy Journal
Say Adios to the Dog Days of Summer
by John and Rachel Pack Every since arriving back in Loreto from La Paz, it has been a whirlwind, from the format change and printer change of Mexico Living to general non-stop go, go, go, and between it all we’ve made a couple of important discoveries—the first is we needed wheels with air conditioning. It’s been almost three months now that we’ve had our bikes to get us around and it’s been fun, but as August came upon us like a warm wet blanket, these wheels were becoming less inviting. The second came when we began to address the first discovery. The only way for us to get air-conditioned wheels was to go get our car in San Felipe. That meant one of us would have to take the bus to get it . . . you can guess which one. When we left on this journey, we decided we would just leave the car and use our bikes and local transportation to get around. Which in most cases in Baja is ideal, except in the later part of summer. So, I had to go back to San Felipe to get our car. When Rachel bought the ticket, she did so without checking the connection time and as it turned out my 18-hour bus ride from Loreto to Ensenada was to arrive at 6 a.m., with a connection to San Felipe at 6 p.m.—the only one of the day. What I didn’t know was how efficient they were, when they arrive at 4 a.m. I wasn’t exactly sure where I was in relationship to Lopez Mateo and the tourist zone, so I sat around the station until the sun started to come up enough that I could look for the Pacific or the the enormous Mexican Flag near the cruise ship docks. Sure enough, I spotted the flag, about 10 blocks away, probably the only flag that can be seen from outer space. The trip was rather uneventful, the first 18 hours were spent watching Roll Bounce, a roller skating disco movie with dubbed Spanish, circa 1979, or Like Mike 2, a basketball movie with the little rapper Bowwow. I was astonished to find that Bowwow was fluent in Spanish. The 14 hours
Photo by Jim Zim
Mexican Flag in Ensenada
spent in Ensenada ticked away while I walked from one end of the tourist zone to the other . . . many times. I watched the U.S. get stomped by Mexico in the Gold Cup, and did a little work at a couple of Internet cafes. I found out that although there was only one bus going to San Felipe that day there were dozens others that same time coming and going from many destinations, so many in fact, I almost missed my bus. Fortunately, I was able to get onboard just as it was pulling out. Another uneventful ride, except that the movies were better, both were in English, which was a lot more entertaining for me. The first was a mountain climbing movie, which was shown during the drive over the mountains, and as someone with an issue with heights, I watched it with the shades pulled. The second movie was I Am Legend with Will Smith. I was so enjoying this movie that when the bus broke down, I wasn’t too concerned because we were getting close to town and I didn’t want to miss the ending. Fortunately, the bus starting having problems shortly after the road construction and in only a few minutes was rolling again, albeit only about five miles an hour, but it was getting me there. The bus will stop nearly anywhere you ask, so Joyce and Richard, Rachel’s parents met me at the El Dorado Pemex. It was 10:30 p.m. We had left our car at our friends’, Gene and Darcy Jensen, house tucked in their garage for safe keeping. They were not in town and the house sitter, who’s name I’ll leave anonymous, since I didn’t ask permission to publish it, had the keys. The next morning after lots of running around and getting four tires replaced, Rachel’s dad and I went to get the car; of course, the battery was dead, apparently they need to have water in them and with the advise of the house sitter we put some water in it . . . lo and behold it started. Once we got back to Richard’s house we loaded up, I grabbed my “Honey Do” list and it was off to Mexicali . . . almost . . . we had to jump the car again—then it
by La Huerita
John & Rachel Pack After marrying eight years ago, they traveled the United States full time producing live events and DVD titles for retail, then moved to San Felipe Baja to slow down. That only lasted a couple of months. Since then they’ve dedicated their lives to sharing Baja California and Sonora with the world, and have fallen in love with so many of you that they want you to join them as they explore the wonders of Baja California Sur.
was off to Mexicali at 11 a.m. First stop, Walmart for a new battery. On a previous trip I had learned my lesson about buying batteries, when I went all the way to Walmart on the U.S. side of the border only to find the batteries were “Hecho de Mexico.” Turns out our first stop was the military checkpoint. I forgot to leave the car running and turned it off—no bueno, now it wouldn’t start. Richard and I pushed it off to the side of the road, and in a couple moments one of the higher ranking soldiers came over to offer a hand. All I needed was a jump, but he insisted they could fix it and brought over their mechanic, who fiddled with this and that, cleaned the terminals with brake fluid and finally walked away after saying something I didn’t understand. Moments later he was back with a Mexican man in a pickup truck, just someone they got from the checkpoint line to help. He gave us a jump and we were on our way. I tried to offer the only thing we had, money and cold beer, but he didn’t want either. Instead he said we needed to go get a new battery, which I explained was our next stop, and asked if he would like us to bring him some fruit or soda on our return. Which we did. Mexicali was as hot as any place I had ever been—118. When we got into town, I realized the the car wouldn’t even idle; I had to do the brake, neutral, idle, drive, brake, etc., to keep it running. The best part was the train blocking the Walmart entrance and the bumper-to-bumper traffic. “Traveling with you is never boring,” said Richard, when I reminded him that the only difference between adventure and an ordeal is attitude. By the time we got to Walmart, I hadn’t stalled the car once and was getting pretty good at driving like that, although very dangerous. All this stop and go had put us way behind. Once we got the new battery we headed over the border, got all our errands done and were back in Mexico in less than an hour. The drive home was non-stop. We were back in San Felipe by 8 p.m., just enough time to help Rachel’s mom label the new edition for all the new subscribers of the month. At 5 a.m. the next morning, while Richard and Joyce slept, I started the car—no jump needed. Seventeen and half hours, lots of potato chips, water and text messages to Rachel, I was back in Loreto with new tires, a new battery and air-conditioned wheels!
The dog days of summer are pretty much behind us now, and most folks aren’t sorry. Autumn is on the way, with cooler weather just ahead, and Puerto Peñasco (aka Rocky Point) will emerge from its summer siesta full of energy and looking for fun. In olden times, the “dog days” of late summer (corresponding with the appearance of the “dog star” Sirius in the dawn sky) were popularly believed to be an evil time "when the seas boiled, wine turned sour, dogs grew mad, and all creatures became languid, causing to man burning fevers, hysterics, and phrensies" according to Brady’s Clavis Calendarium, 1813. Well we had no phrensies or fevers, but it was hot and summer saw a shortage of visitors. Not everyone sees that as a negative, though. The beaches are wide open, there are no crowds, prices are low. It’s fun to join the traditional Mexican "family time" at the Malecon on a Sunday evening enjoying the breeze, listening to bands, chatting, pigging out on churros and other delicacies from the street vendors, just hanging out. No hurries, no worries, we have this moment and should enjoy it. It will not come again. A friend of mine described her summer life this way: “Man, life can be so stressful here in Rocky Point. Why just today I had to get up before dawn to go fishing; caught a 65-pound Gulf Grouper and a couple of nice Pinto Bass! When we got back about midday, I had to take the grandkids out for fish tacos and then play in the pool with them and take them for a banana boat ride. A short siesta was followed by some shelling on beaches that are nearly empty of tourists. Tonight I’ll be joining friends for carne asada and margaritas and I’ll just be wiped by the end of the day. It’s been such a tough summer . . .” Now summer is about over, the dog days are winding down, the temperatures are beginning to cool and my friend might soon need a sweater in the evenings, but things are just beginning to heat up in Rocky Point. Which brings us to September. September is a good time of year to be in Rocky Point. Starting things off, the 16th is Independence Day; and if you’ve never experienced Mexico’s Independence Day, you’ve been missing out on some serious fun! You can find out all the details by googling “mexican indepence day,” but suffice it to say that it’s every bit as patriotic, fun and celebratory as the parallel holiday you’re used to in your own country. There are fireworks; special foods; parades; music; vendors on every street corner selling flags, balloons, etc.; and everything is draped in Mexico’s colors of green, white and red. It’s the biggest fiesta of the year, and Rocky Point will have plenty going on, especially at the Plaza in Old Port. Come on down. Stay a while. The door is always open. Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 11
Things to Do
Kayak Rocky Point
Your One-Stop Water Fun Shop by John Pack Early one morning, in December 2005, on the Bay of San Quintin, located approximately 200 miles south of the U.S. border, on the Pacific Coast, Roland and Tammy Mondragon began their daily kayak fishing trip to catch fish for a ceviche lunch. Barely on the water for five minutes, they noticed a lot of bubbles under their kayak that seemed to be following them along, and it felt a little eerie! Suddenly in front of them appeared a huge grey object and then a sudden slap of a huge tail on the water. This rocked their kayak and they almost tipped over. Roland and Tammy were quite shaken for a moment and started to turn back. The whale was certainly young, but still large, and continued to follow them hanging out under their kayak blowing bubbles. They realized that they were probably not in danger, so they stayed and the whale played with them for a couple of hours, passing underneath them and periodically surfacing enough to shake up their kayak, then literally looking at them and more tail slapping. They spent the rest of their week looking for and chasing the whales on their kayak and did have a few more encounters and a great time and got lots of exercise. Tammy later read that these whales are used to people and they often like to scare you, hear the screams and then look up to see the excitement. They even let you pet them, but Tammy and Roland really didn’t want that one too much closer. Roland and Tammy have always loved Mexico, and traveled here for over nine years on extended vacations. Roland grew up in California and has been kayaking for many years. He taught Tammy to kayak and she loved it, so they decided some day they would have a kayak business and hoped it would be in Mexico. Tammy’s family is out of Tucson and they had a family reunion four years ago in Puerto Peñasco. Afterward, they visited a few more times and decided they liked the location, the Sea of Cortez and the people. Two and half years ago, they moved to Puerto Peñasco and today Roland and Tammy operate Kayak Rocky Point, a water fun store, which includes a full line of fishing, snorkeling, skim boarding and body boarding equipment, and other water and beach items. They also offer scuba instruction and dive trips. You can get certified or have a “try dive” at affordable prices. They have also had great success helping people plan their vacations from start to finish including condo and beach house rentals. That plus their complete land and sea services—from yachts to pangas, fishing, diving, Bird Island trips, banana boats to 12 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
jet skis, ATVs to horseback riding, parasailing to ultra lights, sunset sailing to group dining—they can take care of it all. They strive to fairly represent businesses in town that wish to participate in their program of services. They have some longtime friends and supporters that they work closely with like, Lea and Felipe of Sea Fari Tours & Diving; Ray, Annette and Antonio at Pancho Villa Fishing Charters; Dora and Lalo at Rocio Del Mar Dive Charters; Ryan and Kelly at Rocky Point Parasailing; Craig and Oscar at Del Mar Charters & Sailing; and longtime Puerto Peñasco resident that really helped them along the way, Designer Jewelry by Patti. They are an authorized Hobie Kayak Dealer and have 17 in both single and double seating styles. They’re all “sit on top” Sea Kayaks, known for their stability and ease of use for the beginner through experienced. They offer standard paddle and the innovative mirage drive pedal kayaks. The pedal drives are so easy for all ages and skill levels, and propel you through the water at about three miles per hour with ease. Your hands are free for fishing or photography. All kayak rentals include deluxe lumbar support seats, orientation and life jackets. You can take one of their guided tours or kayak without a guide. For those concerned, they have outrigger systems that prevent the kayak from turning over and have rain suits for any mild splashes or even wet suit rentals. They are located on Benito Juarez in the bright yellow building, just before the road becomes one way.
Kayak Rocky Point is usually open 9 a.m.–6 p.m. daily; they are available by phone or Internet all the time: www.kayakrockypoint.com;
kayakrockypoint@aol.com; Vonage: (602) 7736823; MEX Cell: (638) 109-6894; Store: (638) 388-6773.
Fishing
Nautical Ladder Dead in the Water by Rocky Tides According to news reports in a number of Mexican publications, FONATUR (Federal Tourism Promotion Fund) has announced that the much ballyhooed Nautical Ladder’s final form has been canceled and the assets of the 10 projects that have either been completed or partially completed will be sold. FONATUR, which over the past six years received more than MX$1,500 million of investments for the project from the federal government, made clear that they no longer have a budget for further investment in it. Juan Manuel Galarza Tohen, Director General of FONATUR port operations, is cited as saying Merrill Lynch will be the financial agent for the divestiture process. The completed marinas include those in Mazatlan, Sinaloa; Puerto Escondido, La Paz and Santa Rosalia in Baja California Sur; San Felipe in Baja California (Norte); San Blas, Nayarit; Puerto Peñasco and San Carlos, Sonora. In an unfinished state are marinas in Topolobampo, Sinaloa and Santa Rosalillita, BCN. Galarza Tohen claimed success for the eight operating marinas and scales, saying it has triggered regional development in each case, which was the goal. He added, “The next step is what we will do within the proposed divestiture. The original project is canceled. We stay with 10 marinas.” The ill-conceived project, brought forward by former President Vicente Fox in 2001, was a $2 billion initiative which involved building a “ladder” or nautical route of marinas and tourist sites along the east
coast of the Sea of Cortez and the Baja peninsula so that boaters would never have to travel more than 120 nautical miles to the next stop (one day’s travel by boat)—thus, a “nautical stairway.” The idea to promote nautical tourism to Baja’s 2,000 miles of coastline, as well as another 1,000 miles of coastline on Mexico’s northwest mainland coast. The plan called for 22 full-service marinas: 5 of those already existed, 7 existed but needed to be rebuilt, 10 would be new. It also called for construction of a 70-mile land bridge (or dry canal, a superhighway for cars and trains) across the middle of the Baja peninsula, from Santa Rosalia (on the Pacific side) to Bahia de los Angeles (on the Sea of Cortez side). This land bridge was to facilitate the transportation and delivery of yachts up to 55 feet in length into the calm waters of the Sea of Cortez. FONATUR anticipated that 52,000 American boat owners would sail to these destinations and a good number would permanently move there. FONATUR estimated that 76,400 boats would be cruising the Baja coastlines by 2010 and that there would be 5.4 million nautical tourists by 2014. Some estimates state that FONATUR over anticipated the number of yachts by as much as 600 percent. The plan has sparked vigorous debate from many levels about its economic and ecological viability, with the disastrous marina at Santa Rosalillita used as the poster child for both promoters and detractors. Republished with permission: http://rptides.blogspot.com
Photo of the Month Jennifer Flanagan, photographer and owner of creatinglastingmemories.com captured this shot of her father, Jim Besaw, and brother Don with the owners of Pancho Villa Charters after a fun-filled fishing trip. This was Jim’s fifth visit with Pancho Villa, and Don’s first time—but we’re sure it won’t be his last! He loved every minute of it. He loved Rocky Point and can’t wait to come back!! The people in the photo are (left to right) Jim Besaw of Surprise Arizona, Annette and Ray Ramirez owners of Pancho Villa Charters, Puerto Peñasco, Mexico, and Don Besaw of Trenton, New Jersey.
Ensenada Boat Launching by Dann Manz Launching a smaller craft anywhere in the Ensenada area is a bit challenging. This is because there are, unfortunately, only a handful of ramps. About 20 minutes south of Ensenada, in the Punta Banda peninsula, there is an fairly large estuary with a free paved boat ramp. At low tides this boat ramp can be high and dry, so one has to calculate their trip according to high and low tides. Usually launching is possible three hours before high tide, and landing can be done up to three hours after high tide. Launching on the ocean is typically done on the beach. At La Jolla Beach Camp, which is in the Punta Banda peninsula region, on the road to LaBufadora, there is an area kept open with a front-end loader, so you can drive to the beach. The launch fee is $5. The sand is plenty firm, but a four-wheel drive is advisable.
Launching from the beach can be a bit treacherous depending on the size of the surf and the wind. Typically, I push my boat off the trailer so it lands in four to five inches of water. I pull the trailer out from under the boat, rapidly get out of my truck and run to the boat and spin it around, so the bow is facing the oncoming surf. It is advisable to have a friend with you to keep the bow faced against the surf, while you park the truck. If I go alone, I throw an anchor off the bow. Then I push the boat out until the water gets to my knees. I jump in, grab the oars; and row to get past the surf. Once beyond the surf you can drop the motor and take off. There are a few other boat ramps here on the peninsula. One is called Rincon, and it is concrete. It is also free to launch. The problem with this ramp is that launching at any type of low tide is very dangerous. At the end of the ramp are
many nasty rocks. The water is very shallow, and takes very good timing. It is wonderful to be able to launch at high tide with no surf. But, if the tide is low and the surf is big, you might as well push your boat off a cliff. One more potential launching place, which is even more dangerous (most of the time) is at La Bufadora, at the boat ramp near Dale’s Dive Shop. The fee for this launch is $10 for nonresidents of Campo La Bufadora. It is a steep ramp that winds down through a bluff. Most of the time the surf is far too big to even attempt to launch a regular boat. Pangas seem to work better. Again, at the end of this ramp there is a rock nursery. At low tide launching is almost impossible, except for kayaks. So launching here on a calm day is fine, but you need to be back in before low tide, or you will have to drift around in the bay until the next high tide, which can be four to five hours.
The last public launching ramp is in Ensenada, at the Hotel Corral. I have heard several different reports, but it costs between $35 and $40. It is a wonderful ramp, but it’s pricey and a long distance from the best fishing. There is a private boat ramp at Estero Beach Resort. In my opinion, this is the best ramp around the area. You can only launch there if you are a resident or a visitor at the hotel. You can launch there no matter what the tide conditions . . . high, low . . . it does not matter. In summary, there are six boat ramps in all of Ensenada and the vicinity. They are: Hotel Corral, LaJolla Beach Camp, Rincon, Punta Banda Estuary, LaBufadora and Estero Beach. Some are user friendly, some are not. Beach launching is the best method in my opinion, only if you can push your boat off the trailer. Good luck! “Gone fishin’, be back at dark-thirty.” Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 13
Things to see
Mission of San Javier
Excursion Length: 6 Hours What You Need: Comfortable shirt and pants or shorts, Bottled water for the drive to and from the Mission, Windbreaker or sweater, Sunscreen, Your camera
One of the Best Preserved Missions in Existence by Benjamin Eugene F o r t ú n Jiménez de Bertadoña discovered the Baja California Peninsula in early 1534. However, it was Hernán Cortés who recognized the peninsula as the “Island of California” in May 1535, and is, therefore, officially credited with the discovery. In January 1683, the Spanish government chartered an expedition consisting of three ships to transport a contingent of 200 men to the southern tip of Baja California. Under the command of the governor of Sinaloa, Isidoro de Atondo y Antillon, and accompanied by Jesuit priest Eusebio Francisco Kino, the ships made landfall in La Paz. The landing party was eventually forced to abandon its initial settlement at San Bruno due to the hostile response on the part of the natives. In 1695, the missionaries attempted to establish a settlement near Loreto but again failed. Father Kino and Atondo y Antillon returned to the Mexican mainland, where Kino went on to establish several missions in the northwest. A Jesuit priest named Juan María de Salvatierra eventually managed to establish the first permanent Spanish settlement, the Misión Nuestra Senora de Loreto Conchó. Founded, on October 19, 1697, the Mission went on to become the religious and administrative capital of Baja California. From there, other Jesuits went out to establish other settlements
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throughout the peninsula, founding a total of 18 missions along the initial segment of El Camino Real over the next seven decades. As early as the voyages of Christopher Columbus, the Kingdom of Spain sought to establish missions to convert pagans to Catholicism in Nueva España (New Spain. New Spain consisted of the Caribbean, Mexico, and portions of what is now the Southwestern United States.). To facilitate colonization, the Catholic Church awarded these lands to Spain. The Spanish Missions in Baja California comprise a series of religious outposts established by Spanish Catholic Dominicans, Jesuits and Franciscans between 1683 and 1834 to spread the Christian doctrine among the local natives. The missions gave Spain a valuable toehold in the frontier land, and introduced European livestock, fruits, vegetables and industry into the region. Eventually, a network of settlements was established wherein each of the installations was no more than a long day’s ride by horse or boat (or three days on foot) from another. One of the 18 missions is the Mission of San Javier, which was built by Spanish Jesuit Miguel del Barco in 1744, and it is generally claimed to be the most beautiful and one of the best-preserved missions in existence. The original Spanish mission of San Francisco Javier was initially founded about eight kilometers north of the mission’s current location, near a stream in an area inhabited by the the native Cochimíes. Jesuit Father Francisco María Píccolo visited the place on May 11, 1699, two years after the founding of Loreto, and started the construction of a chapel in October of the
Who Should Take This Tour: Anyone interested in Mexican history, Anyone interested in the history of the Missions in the New World, Anyone who’d like to learn some of the history and lore of Baja California, Anyone looking for a low impact excursion Resources: Wikipedia, en.wikipedia.org Mexconnect, www.mexconnect.com Viva Travel Guides, Vivatravelguides.com Escapist, www.escapist.com Cruise Port Insider, www.cruiseportinsider.com Answers.com Additional Reading: Baja California Sur http://www.bcs.gob.mx/varios/ruta_de_las_misiones/ misiones/san_fco_javier_viggebiaundo_eng.htm
same year. Father Juan María de Salvatierra dedicated it to All Saints on November 1. The site was abandoned in 1701 because of a threatened Indian revolt. Father Juan de Ugarte, one of the most esteemed missionaries of the conquest, reestablished the mission in 1702. A few years later it was moved to the better-watered present location of the community of San Javier, Baja California Sur. The energetic Ugarte constructed dams, aqueducts and stone buildings. He introduced cattle breeding, big and small species, developed agriculture and taught the locals to thread and knit wool, not only for themselves, but also for the missionary project in general. In 1744, a few years after Ugarte’s death, Father Miguel del Barco (1706–1790) began to build the present mission church, which took 14 years to complete. The three magnificent gilded baroque retablos (altarpieces) came from Tepotzotlán, just north of Mexico City, and
were brought here on the backs of mules, along with oil paintings and other religious paraphernalia. Miguel del Barco was responsible for building what has been called “the jewel of the Baja California mission churches.” Due to the ravages of European diseases, the native population declined steadily through the Jesuit period (1699–1768) and then more steeply after the missionaries of that order were expelled from Baja California. By 1817, the mission was deserted. The church has been restored and is now maintained by Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History. Remarkably, the church really hasn’t changed much over the last 250 years. How To Get There The mission of San Javier is located in the Sierra la Giganta, the mountain range to the west. The junction is 7 km south of Loreto at Km 118. As of August 2009, half of the 36-kilometer mountain road to San Javier is paved. The drive to the San Javier will take around two hours. You’ll want to stop and see Cuevas Pintas, one of the most easily accessible locations in all of Baja to see cave paintings. Abstract figures, thought to be the visions experienced by a shaman during a trance adorn a protected rock overhang. The area sits in a small canyon oasis with a cascading stream flowing over large boulders and between the tall swaying palms. As you climb the mountains, you can look back and see a magnificent view of the Sea of Cortez and Isla de Carmen. You’ll marvel at the desert countryside, with its unique flora and fauna. You’ll also want to visit to the olive orchards planted by the Jesuits, a stopover visit to Las Parras Ranch, with a charming orchard at the bottom of a canyon, a natural spring and fruit trees, remnants of the Jesuit presence in the area, an irrigation systems introduced by the Jesuits that is still in use today, a more than 200-year-old chapel. This route is a winding mountain road, rocky in places, with some steep sections and occasional mud from the mountain rains. Once you reach the top of the range, you’ll cross the high Chaparral and several large ranches. The village of San Javier is an oasis in a semi-arid mountain wilderness with about 60 inhabitants, which live in small houses that run up and down the few narrow, clean, cobblestone streets. The community sits center a small valley surrounded on all sides by tall mountains with a stream running through. It offers very limited tourist services, but does include a small store, restaurant, motel and police station. Any trip to Loreto should include a side trip to San Javier. This is not only one of the most amazing missions in the Californias, but a very beautiful drive and a look back at the history of the region and Baja California Sur. On your way back down the mountain, just a kilometer before reaching the Highway 1 junction is Del Barracho Saloon. This is a “must do” addition to the San Javier trip. Stop for a game of pool, awesome burger, or cold beverage; this is one of the few locations with actual draft beer, including dark.
Pets
MHTA / Mexico for the Humane Treatment of Animals a Network of Animal Lovers in Baja by Steven Forman, aka DogMan Founder of the ZAPP Spay/Neuter Program in San Felipe I’ve been living in San Felipe since July of 2003, and as many of my friends know, I came here to retire and pursue my passion for dogs. I arrived in San Felipe with five of my own, and although many have since passed, I still have six dogs that I live with, five of which are local San Felipe rescues. By the way, groups that focus on population control and care of cats are so needed in Baja. They almost have to operate independently, because of the scope of the cat overpopulation problem and the cost involved. I co-founded San Felipe Animal Rescue (SFAR) in 2003, and after separating from SFAR in 2007, formed a group called ZAPP, “Zero Additional Pup-ulation Project,” which focuses almost entirely on controlling the stray and indigent dog population of San Felipe by holding ongoing spay/ neuter clinics. I discovered that getting a program such as ZAPP off the ground in Mexico was no easy feat. I was always aware of all the great work being done in northern Baja by other rescues, shelters and spay/neuter groups. Not to mention all the folks that travel the streets of Mexico feeding and watering strays. You Go, guys! I thought, “wouldn’t it be great for all of us to have a forum where we could speak out and exchange ideas each month”—Mexicans and Americans alike!. And then it happened! In June, a group from San Felipe met with others from Mexicali and San Luis for our first meeting at the University in Mexicali, with the hope of very soon expanding our membership to include rescues and shelters from Ensenada, Tijuana, Rosarito and Tecate. We call ourselves MHTA, Mexico for the Humane
Treatment of Animals, and we are a group of likeminded individuals who are committed to raising awareness and having an impact on policies that exist in parts of Baja that we are at odds with. Number one on the agenda is ending electrocution as the preferred protocol for euthanasia in Mexicali; also, we are focused on just how to initiate low or no cost spay/neuter programs throughout northern Baja with the possible involvement of the government. We are also seeking out ways to enforce existing laws on the books that deal with animal abuse in Baja, and of course, instituting a long overdue education program for young people in San Felipe by bringing Spanish language classes to schools and community centers that address care and respect for animals. Mexicali is involved in humane education, and we continually share back and forth with those already doing it regularly. Good things are starting to happen for us as a result of networking, especially since a revolutionary new social networking site was started by animal advocate Shawn Santos, from San Diego. Hope Animal Network is our very own Facebook for animal lovers. You can join Hope Animal Network by simply going to www.hopeanimalnetwork.org. You can also join the MHTA Group on Hope Animal Network by clicking on “Groups” and choosing “Yucatan.” Please support us any way you can. Please check out our blog at www.sfzapp.com to get the date for the September MHTA meeting. We’d love for you to come and be part of our network. You can also call (707) 320-4969 from the States, or (686) 577-2708 from Mexico for any information. Contact us at bajaanimalrescue@ yahoo.com.
Transition Facility and End of Life Sanctuary for San Felipe Dogs by Steven Forman, aka DogMan DogMan is out there looking for a large, large piece of land to lease and/or buy to create the NEW ZAPP Spay/Neuter Project’s Transition Facility and End of Life Sanctuary for San Felipe Dogs, and ultimately cats as well. The transition facility will allow ZAPP to begin taking all stray and indigent dogs off San Felipe beaches, deserts, campos and streets. DogMan’s goal is to create a safe, secure environment where dogs are completely out of jeopardy, and no longer vulnerable to citywide roundups and other abuses. ZAPP will be able to trap stray dogs using state-of-the-art, gravity sensitive rescue traps, which will then be brought to ZAPP’s facility, where we will rehab the animals, fix them, vaccinate them, socialize them, and ultimately relocate them into shelters and rescues throughout the contiguous U.S. Older, less adoptable dogs need never fear again the possibility of dying, starving, being run over or suffering in our streets; or being destroyed by electrocution at animal control in Mexicali. The Sanctuary aspect of the project will provide permanent residence for geriatric canines, and ultimately felines as well. We hope to be operational in the next 60–90 days. We’ll need lots of volunteer support, and some staff to run the facility. Any leads on fencing, straw bails, block, trailers, etc., please contact ZAPP at bajaanimalrescue@yahoo.com or visit our blog at www.sfzapp.com.
Are you thinking about a new pet?
Then please browse our listing for the pet of your dreams and you could become the owner of theirs. Please contact any of the shelters named in the listing. Thank you. Frankie is a wonderful older dog that would love to have a home. She had a rough start in life and has been at the rescue for four years. Almost dead when we found her, she is looking good and has very good house manners. Pretty dog. San Felipe Animal Rescue: Contact Jennifer Holmes at rosewind79@hotmail.com
Toby is two years old and we have had him since he was a puppy. He is a great dog and gets along well with all other dogs and puppies. A little afraid of new men, but loves kids and women. San Felipe Animal Rescue: Contact Jennifer Holmes at rosewind79@hotmail.com
Canela is a wonderful overweight chocolate lab. As big as a whale with the heart to go along. She has a crippled back leg that can’t be fixed. We found her on the street for a spay and neuter clinic with the leg already broken and healed wrong. A beautiful loyal dog! San Felipe Animal Rescue: Contact Jennifer Holmes at rosewind79@hotmail.com
Lucinda is about three years old and was found sick and starved on the beach with three puppies. She is beautiful now and very sweet. She is a small medium dog and very sweet. San Felipe Animal Rescue: Contact Jennifer Holmes at rosewind79@hotmail.com
Patricio believe it or not isn’t a stray dog trying to survive on the streets. He used to have a home, a family and a very cruel owner. At first he had trouble swallowing his food, because he almost never ate. Now is gaining weight, eats four times a day, and new hair is begining to grow. He barks, plays and wags his tail, saying thanks to the lady who rescued him. He really deserves a good home and a good life. Mexicali, Gente Por Los Animales: Contact Rosy Arriola at gslmexicali@hotmail.com Princesa is 11 months old, with long, black and white hair, like a cocker spaniel. Very peculiar feature, eyes are of different colors, and one pupil has a different shape, but her eyesight is perfect. She had been run over. Now, completely recovered, vaccinated, and neutered. A very quiet and sensitive dog, would rather be in the arms of one person, than surrounded by lots of them. Prefers a more relaxed surrounding, and would be an excellent companion pet. Mexicali, Gente Por Los Animales: Contact, (686) 567-0111 Paty Torres genteporlosanimales@gmail.com Dolly is almost three years old, with short, brown and black hair. She was found in a hotel in the city. She has been up for adoption since the end of 2007, and nobody has given her a chance. She is very affectionate, barks and is obedient. Participated in several events, including a fashion show. Vaccinated and neutered. She would make a loving, loyal companion. Mexicali, Gente Por Los Animales: Contact, (686) 567-0111 Paty Torres genteporlosanimales@gmail.com. Bocadito has short, white, black and brown hair. Found on the street by a person after being ran over by a car. She was taken into a home while she recovered; fortunately only a fissure on one of her legs. Now completely recovered, vaccinated, and sterilized. Very loving and nice dog; likes being around people. Looking for a responsible, loving owner. If you own or operate a shelter for dogs and cats and would like Mexico Living to help tell people about these wonderful animals, please send a photo and bio to adoptions@mexicoliving.info. There is no charge for your post. We have limited space, but will make every effort to publish as many as we can. Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 15
Places to EAT Augie’s Bar and Bait Shop
Augie’s Bar & Bait Shop!
“Where Everyone Knows Your Name” by John Pack This ain’t your average bait shop, because here the bait is either smiling and handing Photos by Rachel Pack you a cold one from behind the bar or it’s served with a side of wisabi. “Originally, the bait was to be snacks and finger food, but we hired great looking young ladies that our customers affectionally called the bait.” says Augie. Located on the Malecón, this is the preeminent happy-hour hotspot for the gringo community. Whether you’re an Augie’s virgin, or veteran, it’s a warm and welcoming place; a Mexican version of Cheers. Each time the door opens and someone walks in, they’re greeted, and if it’s someone returning, then they’re usually greeted by many. One would half expect to see Norm come walking in, or for Woody to hand you an ice cold cervesa. For Augie, retiring was always the idea and the bar was always a dream. For most of his life he has been in business for himself. Which has allowed him to have his own schedule. He has owned toy stores, vending machines, video games, video rental stores, gift shops and more. Augie has always made fun part of his business and life. The bar was built to be a place to hang out and have fun and that is exactly what they do. Augie’s is a daily celebration of old friends and new friends, and a genuine happy hangout with great food and good times. Happy hour is every weekday between 4 and 7 p.m., with great free food served between 5 and 7 p.m. Each day offers a new flavor and opportunity to talk about fishing, your boat or local activities. On Monday free Gringo Tacos, soft tacos with all the fixings; on Tuesday free ceviche and half-price sushi; Wednesday is free Mexican chocolate clam bake; Thursday is free tortilla pizza; and Friday is free chicken wings. In addition to dinner specials every night, 7–9 p.m., all under $100 (about US$7 at the current exchange). Downstairs, Augie’s has TV sports and news of all kinds, a great ocean view, and air conditioning to put a chill on the hottest August or September day. Upstairs is an open-air dining area, kitchen and bar with the nicest view in all of Loreto, directly above the Malecon looking out at Isla de Carmen. In addition to the ice cold beers by the dozen, drinks and wine of your choice, they offer a full menu that includes a large selection of sushi rolls and sashimi; great burgers and steaks, plus the full spectrum of Mexican dishes, and their own tortilla pizza with a wonderful sauce that Augie will tell you is the best sauce around, and most would agree. They also offer breakfast and, for those that like bacon, there is no better bacon in Mexico than at Augie’s. “Sushi has always been a favorite of mine, and was to be part of the bait,” says Augie. “I remember the TV commercial with Terry Bradshaw eating sushi, and he says ‘what’s this bait?’” They’re open to serve excellent food and drinks from 9 a.m.–10 p.m. daily, and it is the perfect place to make great friends, and eat and drink well. So, when an unsuspecting fisherman comes in and wants to know where the bait is, just reply, “The bait’s behind the bar” and smile.
Where it feels like Home!
Happy Hour Everyday from 4pm - 7pm
Augie’s Free Happy hour Specials Mon - Gringo Tacos Tues - Ceveche & 1/2 off Sushi Wed - Clams Thurs - Pizza Friday - Hot Wings www.augieBARsloreto.com
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San Felipe And The Crab by Dick Cadger We see these crabs in seven seas soup, some eateries have them on the menu, some seafood cocktail drinks have them in it, and we now know the fisherman that fish them. We are regular customers. In fact, as I sit here writing this I have 15 jumbos that were cooked last night. We started with 20 . . . Oops, where did those five go? I found I can get them live and kicking by seeing the fishermen in the mornings, otherwise they are packaged in 5 and 10 kilo bags, on ice. We bring them home, put a big pot on with a couple inches of water, enough to boil for 30–45 minutes without boiling away. I try to put something in the pot to keep the crabs out of the water, a colander works if it is upside down. Get that water boiling, sprinkle on some Old Bay* seasoning in the water, a beer if you like, maybe some vinegar to your taste. Once boiling, I remove the cover and put a layer of crabs in, sprinkle a generous amount of old bay, another layer of crabs, etc., until the pot is full or you run out of crabs; cover. For 30 to 40 minutes the little gems just cook in that steam. Remove them and enjoy. We only get these guys in the summer, so you snow birds will have to come endure the heat. The same fishermen that fish shrimp often put out crab pots in the summer; but once the shrimp season opens in September, the more lucrative shrimp are fished and not the crabs. Presently the crab sells for 30 or 35 pesos per kilo. I have paid US$30 for six crabs in a restaurant in Virginia. Here just this week we purchased 5 kilograms of crab that ended up being 20 crabs for a mere 175 pesos, at 13 pesos to the dollar that is $13.50. Why do we love San Felipe? For all the reasons everyone does . . . and for the blue crabs. 16 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
*Old Bay seasoning can be found in the spice or gourmet section of most grocery sto res in the U.S., but is diffic ult to impossible to find in Mexico. So, if yo u didn’t bring it with yo u, here is a recipe to ma ke your own: OLD BAY SEASONIN G 1 tablespoon celer y seeds 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns 6 bay leaves 1/2 teaspoon whole cardamoms 1/2 teaspoon musta rd seeds 4 whole cloves 1 teaspoon sweet Hu ngarian paprika 1/4 teaspoon mace In a spice grinder or small food process or, combine all of the ing redients. Grind well and store in a small glass jar. Best if used within six months (da te your jar).
FOOD
Eating Tacos in Mexico by Roy Jones My first experience of the “real” Mexican taco came at about 9 p.m. on October 1, 2005, in Guerrero Negro, a dusty town in the middle of Baja California, famous for salt production and whale spotting. Having spent the previous 12 hours on a bus from Tijuana, I badly needed sustenance. My day had been spent in a state of perpetual worry, as I had managed to walk across the border without completing any formalities at all. I was illegally in Mexico. Not the best way to begin my first solo traveling experience! On top of this, I didn’t have any local currency, and I had a hangover. Luckily, as I stepped off the bus, I saw a shining light, my deliverance from hunger, in the form of a taco stand, or Taquerilla. I sat down and asked what was cooking. “Taco’s,” was the reply. I had three . . . and a can of Coke. From that point, until I left Mexico about six weeks later, I ate countless tacos from a lot of different street stands, market stalls and restaurants. I ate tacos for breakfast, lunch and dinner. And some snacks in between! There are many different types of tacos, each with their own traditions; however, the four types that I ate the most were Tacos de Carne Asada, Tacos al Pastor, Tacos Dorados and Tacos de Pescado. Tacos de Carne Asada, along with al Pastor, were probably the most common variety I found. These tacos are small strips of beef, fried and diced into cubes about 5 mm thick. The beef cubes are then put onto a tortilla (you will often be given a choice between flour and corn tortillas) and garnished with cilantro and onion. Tacos al Pastor (shepherd-style tacos) are usually made from pork. The meat is shaped and put onto a kind of doner-kebab style rotating spit where it cooks. When ready, meat is chopped from the spit and diced into small chunks, put onto a tortilla and garnished with the usual cilantro and onion. Tacos Dorados are slightly different as the meat filling (chicken or beef) is put into a tortilla, which is then sealed and deep-fried until crispy. They are served with a creamy sauce, lettuce and tomatoes. Tacos de Pescado (fish tacos) originate from Baja California and the Pacific Coast. They consist of deep-fried fish (or shrimp) on a soft
tortilla with the usual array of garnishes. Customising your tacos with various condiments is half the fun. Most taquerias offer an array of garnishes, which can be heaped copiously atop the tacos. Cilantro and onion are usually added by the vendor, with a few wedges of lime on the side. You are then free to add your tomatoes, relishes, radishes, cucumbers and the unappetizing (but superb tasting) runny green guacamole sauce. I’m sure that one of the biggest companies in Mexico is Maseca, maybe only due to amount of advertising they do. Advertising is very pronounced in Latin America, every concrete wall along the roadside is painted with the logo of some company or other, which makes for very colorful roadsides! Maseca manufacturers of various flour products that a lot of tortillas are made from. In a market in the town of Tequila I watched two old ladies as they made tortillas. They made a paste of Maseca and water, rolled it into a ball, placed it between two sheets of plastic, put them into a press and then tossed them onto the hot grill for a short time.
There is a noticeable difference in taste and texture between flour and corn tortillas, so be sure to try them both to see which you prefer. The size of the taco gets smaller as you head further south. In Baja California and the northern mainland, tacos were about six inches in diameter. In Chiapas in the south, the tacos shrink to about two inches in diameter. As you might expect, the price shrinks with the size. From about 10 pesos per taco in the north, down to the Holy Grail—the 1 peso taco in a market in San Cristobal de las Casas! Eat ten of those bad boys and you will be full, which translates to a $0.75 meal. In the north it took four tacos to fill me up, but that makes a 40 peso meal. Now, 10 fill me up at 1 peso each. That’s a 10 peso meal. Bargain! Beware. Although street food is delicious, you need to know that standards of cleanliness may not be what you and your stomach are accustomed to. This can sometimes lead to some bowel issues. This did happen to me, and although it didn’t put me off eating street food, it made me more aware of the cleanliness and food preparation.
General guidelines to take into account when selecting a Taqueria:* • Go to a stand where other people are eating. Whether in a big city, town or village, the locals know what’s good, clean and safe. • Go to a stand that “specializes” in a particular type of taco. They will have limited preparation equipment to keep clean, and a limited inventory of ingredients to keep fresh. This is basically the same advice given for eating in restaurants anywhere; the bigger the variety of food on the menu, the greater the possibility of something going wrong. • Use your senses. Look and smell. Is the place clean? If frying is taking place, is the cooking oil or lard clear or does it look like what gets taken out when your car gets an oil change? Does the meat smell good or do you detect an “off” odor? • Remember that the customer has an opportunity at a taco stand not available in restaurants: watching the preparation, the cleanliness of the cook’s hands and cooking utensils. For this reason, many people feel safer eating on the street. • Avoid places that are right at the edge of the sidewalk or curb, especially along busy streets. Traffic and wind both stir up dust, especially during the dry season. • Try it! If you like the look, smell and filling ingredients offered at a taco stand, by all means try it. Some of the tastiest food in Mexico is street food, and only a lack of common sense will stand between the visitor and some terrific eating experiences. Many people say that if you don’t eat on the street, you’re missing Mexico. Street food in Mexico varies greatly. From Tamales in Chihuahua, to Mole in Puebla, the vast majority is absolutely delicious. For anyone thinking of heading to Mexico, be sure to eat on the street! Roy Jones, a 28-year-old British entrepreneur, founder and author of roylloydjones.com, an established travel website, is currently planning his next adventure—a 20,000-mile bicycle journey, scheduled to begin from Istanbul in January 2010. *Mexconnect reference: www.mexconnect.com/ articles/2098-wrap-it-up-a-guide-to-mexicanstreet-tacos-part-i Illustration by Al Guerrero, Los Angeles, CA www.alguerrero.com
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 17
Places to Stay
Sleeping Around in Baja and Sonora Exploring Lodging Options in Northwest Mexico by Stockton Hill and Lucy E. Jackson
When traveling, one of the most important aspects of the trip is your accommodations, and they are as varied as the people traveling. And unlike traveling in other parts of the world, Mexico, especially Baja and Sonora, have about the widest selection of of places to hang your hat as anywhere. From the thatched palapa on a white sandy beach to a mountain cabin, from a historic inn that once housed generals to world-class luxury. Mexico’s great variety of accommodations goes hand and hand with it’s vast array of environments; mountains and jungles, deserts and beaches—from 5 Star luxury resorts and fully furnished vacation homes to sensible, economy lodging. Fall asleep listening to the ocean, an active street on a historic village square or whatever brings music to your ears. Walk to shops and restaurants, or enjoy being pampered in your room—it’s all here. No matter if you’re on your honeymoon, family vacation or group retreat, you’ll find something that suits your every need and budget. You can sit in a rocking chair on the front porch and enjoy a great book, or you can party all night long. Location and ambiance is for you to decide. Want to bring Fido or Fluffy along? No worries. You will be able to find pet-friendly lodging in almost every major city and we’ve highlighted the pet-friendly lodging options. This month’s guide features a sampling of the great choices you will find in Baja and Sonora, from the bed and breakfast, budget hotels and resorts to vacation rental homes and condos. When planning your trip to Baja or Sonora, we suggest that you check with these accommodations first; we are familiar with most of them on a personal level and can tell you that they are some of the best available. Be sure to let them know Mexico Living sent you.
El Dorado Ranch - San Felipe BC For Vacation or Forever!
El Dorado Ranch is located seven miles north of San Felipe; and only 120 miles from the U.S., it’s an easy two-hour drive. The ranch serves as a vacation and retirement resort development like no other in Baja. Vacationers will discover the widest variety of accommodations available including rental homes, condos and hotels. Far removed from the highly commercialized and over developed areas of other Baja destinations, El Dorado Ranch provides a unique opportunity not found elsewhere. Encompassing over 35,000 acres, El Dorado is the largest ranch in Baja offering its owners and guests unparalleled recreation and breathtaking scenery. From their own beach, one can walk for miles along white sand without worrying about crowds. The neighboring mountains offer a 270-degree view of majestic peaks, one of which is over 10,000 feet in elevation. With the largest solar community in North America and 50 percent of the property preserved as green space, El Dorado has set a high standard for eco-friendly development. The air is clean, the land is pristine and the recreational opportunities are abound from tours and rentals, private beach, pool, fishing, water sports, ATV rentals, and San Felipe’s first and only golf course. Their 18-hole championship golf course, Las Caras de Mexico offers a round of golf like no other. El Dorado Ranch has several on-site restaurants, and offers prime real estate including sea- and mountain-view properties starting from under $40,000. Construction costs are equally impressive with quality homes being constructed for as little as $120 a square foot. No other development in Baja can offer these prices with the amenity package, abundance of open space and close proximity to the U.S. El Dorado Ranch Rentals invites you to enjoy the taste of fresh seafood, the breathtaking scenery and the miles of white, sandy beaches. Present this article and receive a 15 percent discount on your booking. Prices starting from US$80. 18 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Playa del Paraiso
San Felipe BC
The New Way to Accommodate in San Felipe by Sean Harrington
Beach and desert enthusiasts, anglers and golfers, as well as thousands of other tourists visit the beautiful seaside city of San Felipe every year. Savvy entrepreneurs realizing the need have been providing lodging opportunities since even before the highway came to San Felipe. Way back then San Felipe was for fishing. The accommodations where for rugged outdoorsmen with little thought to comfort. They came to fish! What San Felipe has been missing is a truly upscale, right on the sand beachfront, world-class, knock your socks off, “which suite do the Kennedys stay in” kind of resort hotel. While Rome wasn’t built in a day, the first phase of Playa del Paraiso Hotel/Condo Resort has just been completed and is now open for business. There are one-, two- and three-bedroom suites that are all super nice and full beachfront. Passing through the newly constructed Grand Entry and security post one can’t help but be impressed with San Felipe’s tallest structure. On your way to guest services you will pass by the steel structure of phase two, destined to soar to 11 stories over the beach. The towers offer nearly aerial type views of San Felipe, the Sea of Cortez, the Marina and, to the west as far as the eye can see, the Sonoran Desert framed by the Sierra San Pedro Martir Range. Arriving at guest services, it strikes you that this building is very upscale, with extraordinarily clean and well maintained grounds. As you enter, the world at your feet becomes handsomely tiled with natural stone and eight-foot tall arched solid wood doors adorned with wrought iron details grace all entries.
The elevator area is set off from the surrounding hall by travertine tiles, which are stylishly and artfully installed. The high-tech elevator itself is strikingly beautiful; operation is smooth, silent and confidence inspiring. The halls are warm and inviting with travertine floors and handmade copper light fixtures. The suites themselves are spacious with high ceilings allowing for more of the eight-foot tall arched solid wood doors, the combination adds volume and richness to the space. Kitchens are first class, touting the newest in modern appliances, beautiful cabinetry and granite tops. Heading for the bedrooms, you no doubt stop in your tracks to view the spacious living areas designed to continue onto the outdoor balcony through and beyond the oversized picture windows to the spectacular views offered by this enchanting site. Spectacular sea views are available from almost anywhere within the suite. Spacious bedrooms, extravagant bath areas and modern designer Mexican motifs are elegant as well as functional. Day or night the views from the balconies will beat anything on HBO or Showtime. Venture out to the garden area where lushly landscaped gardens surround the tiled pool deck. Slip into the marble rimmed infinity pool or the nearby hot tub, kick back and enjoy the view. The planned fitness center isn’t built yet. Swimming, or walking the acres of golden sandy beaches and digging for clams will have to suffice for your exercise requirements. The Spa is a future development as is the restaurant; however, “in-room massage services” are offered and San Felipe is full of wonderful restaurants. Come and enjoy the beginning of a legacy. You’ll be able to say we stayed there back when.
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 19
Sandollar Condotels del Mar - San Felipe BC
Where Your Vacation Dreams Come True Sandollar Condotels del Mar is located on the beautiful Sea of Cortez in San Felipe, Baja. They specialize in making your vacation dreams come true. Sandollar is located three miles south of San Felipe village and, pilots take note, it is just a few minutes away from the San Felipe airport. You will appreciate the short drive to this marvelous holiday retreat. They can arrange transportation from the airport, only five minutes away, and will work with you to customize your vacation from the time your plane touches down or your car pulls into the driveway. Sandollar will also book your fishing excursion, schedule a massage for your rest and relaxation, arrange a desert adventure tour or a chef to cook for you on your own patio by the sea! When you are looking for a romantic getaway, that always special place for your honeymoon, or a gathering place for family and friends, their four-unit two-bedroom beachfront condos can accommodate you with all the amenities of home. You won’t forget your Sandollar experience. They don’t want you to—they want you to return!
San Felipe Vacations - San Felipe BC For a Memorable Vacation or Weekend Getaway
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El Tiburon Casitas - Loreto BCS The Perfect Choice in Loreto
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El Tiburon Casitas in Loreto, owned by Liz Bracken, is a quiet spot behind gates to keep her guests secure. This LY FR rental is perfect for long-term stays. PET The property consists of three individual casitas and an apartment grouped around a central courtyard, BBQ area and a pool. The casitas are central to the beach, restaurants and mission district. No car is needed. Kayaks and bikes are available on site. There is also a fishing captain on staff who has super pangas. El Tiburon are fully furnished, air-conditioned homes. They have ceiling fans, DVD and CD players, a clock, and full private bath/shower. The kitchen is fully equipped with large and small appliances, including a water cooler and coffee maker. Linens and pool towels are in each room, and maid service is included. Loreto is about 725 miles from the U.S. border by car or a 90-minute non-stop flight from LAX. It lies on the east side of the Baja Penninsula between the Sea of Cortez and the Sierra La Giganta mountain range. Visitors to El Tiburon always comment on the cleanliness and helpfulness of the staff. If you are an ice cream lover, there is the best ice cream in the world right down the street; and just around the corner is a dive shop, for those interested in diving. If fishing is your pleasure, the marina is just two blocks away. El Tiburon is all about the peace and quiet, especially at night. El Tiburon is away from traffic and isn’t a party place. From the proximity to the sea and downtown, peace and quiet, to the great showers and the pillow top beds, El Tiburon is the perfect choice for short- and long-term rentals in Loreto. If you visit once, you’ll come back to El Tiburon again and again.
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Only two hours south of the border, in the prestigious gated community of La Hacienda in South Beach, San Felipe Vacations offers four custom-built homes for rent by the day, week or month. All homes are just a short walk to the pristine isolated LY beach, and three have a garage with a pull-through for an FR PET extended trailer. The rooftop decks are also a great way to capture the beauty San Felipe has to offer. Having a family reunion, special event, or just want to hang out with your friends? You can rent all four homes (Casa Baja, Casa Sonora, Casa Monterey and Casa de Esperanza). Imagine your Mexico wedding dream coming true with all your friends and family close by. La Hacienda would also be the perfect place for a corporate retreat. Their bilingual property manager is available to make sure your stay is great, so you won’t want to leave
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Tripui Resort - Puerto Escondido BCS
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PET A vacation getaway surrounded by the Islands of the Sea of Cortez located at Puerto Escondido, just 15 miles south of Loreto. Tripui Resort offers a 16-room hotel, restaurant with bar, large pool, gift store, grocery store, Internet and laundry services in subtropical surroundings and beautifully landscaped grounds. All rooms have French windows that open to a private balcony surrounded by gardens, with a view of the pool and the outstanding Sierra de la Giganta. From their restaurant, you may order from the menu or they will cook your fresh catch from your fishing trip. Both indoor and patio seating is available. Their beautiful pool provides both a regular and a wading pool, and the patio provides areas to bask in the sun and covered areas. The Tripui Resort is a place where you can enjoy nature. You can travel throughout Baja and nowhere else will you find anything like the Tripui Resort.
VIP Earth Events - San Felipe BC Serving Your Every Need
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An interesting multi-faceted U.S. company that manages vacation rentals for Americans that have purchased homes in San Felipe. The homes range from LY FR PET a modest one-bedroom townhouse to large, luxury threebedroom homes. They vary in amenities that include things like a pool table, AV entertainment center, movies, computer access, swimming pool, tennis courts, outdoor BBQ, private beach access and rooftop living. VIP Earth Events is able to stock groceries for you so that when you get there you don’t have to immediately go out. Cuban cigars, cold cerveza and your favorite tequila can also be delivered to your doorstep. Also, a private chef is available upon request. In addition to vacation rentals, they also has some long-term rentals available. VIP Earth Events always knows where the party is because they are also event promoters in the U.S. and Mexico, and are active in the San Felipe music scene. Visit them online at www.VIPEarthEvents.com!
La Damiana - Loreto BCS
History and Comfort in the Heart of Loreto La Damiana is a small, intimate inn located in the heart of the historical section of Loreto. The house was built in the 1930s for the Salario family when the father, a General in the Mexican Army was transferred to Loreto. The house was renovated into a posada in 2005. The Inn consists of six rooms, a central living room, a full outdoor kitchen, a patio and garden area, and a front porch. The Damiana is tastefully decorated with artwork from around the world and natural objects from the area. Damiana is a place where one can talk with your fellow traveler over a morning cup of coffee or an afternoon cerveza. You can take a nap in a hammock, read in one of the many rocking chairs, play with the dog and cat, watch the birds and hummingbirds in the garden, cook up a gourmet meal from the day’s catch, or chat with Debora and Gerardo about your next adventure. La Damiana is located on Francisco Madero, between Hildalgo and Fco. Jordan. This excellent site places guests within three blocks of Loreto’s outstanding attractions, including the Plaza, the historic Spanish Mission, the town museum, restaurants and shopping. Or head east for a short walk to the gorgeous Sea of Cortez, where you can stroll along the Malacon, watch pelicans and fishermen in the marina, or search for seashells on the sandy beaches. Amenities include secure off-street parking, air conditioning, WiFi, computer for guest use, bikes for rent, barbecue, extensive library of books, TV and DVDs, access to laundry facilities (small fee), loving dog to pet and a playful cat. All rooms are large, have their own bathroom with a large walk-in shower, and individually decorated with plenty of character and attention to detail. Damiana offers a beautiful and relaxing atmosphere where people can feel at home. Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 21
Coco Cabañas - Loreto BCS The Secret Oasis Hideaway
The Cabanas are newly constructed, U.S. owned and operated. Coco Cabañas is located in Loreto, one block from the Sea of Cortez and two blocks from downtown. All the fun, excitement, shopping and dining is just a few minutes walking distance away. Which is why Coco Cabañas rates high praise from the visitors who discovered this off the beaten track vacation spot. Each cabaña has a fully furnished kitchen, dining area, air conditioning, TV with video library, ceiling fans, beds for one to three people, and bathrooms with showers and hot water. The covered patio porch with fan, chairs and table make the evenings most enjoyable. The eight cabanas are built around the beautiful, and perfectly warm, pool area that is lush with palms and beautiful plants and flowers. “Completely awesome” was one comment from a true fisherman. “From the time you walk through the front gate, you are welcomed as family and treated as such.” Coco Cabañas is a secret hideaway that will get crowded fast as word gets out. One vacationer commented, “The gang who takes care of the vacationers are quick and perceptive. They have needs met before they can be stated.” However long your stay, they will make your visit pleasurable. If you come to fish, dive, snorkel, hike or just enjoy the natural beauties of Loreto, they can arrange your needs with the best people and places available. They can arrange tours to the village of Mulege or the Mission San Javier in the mountains above Loreto. Coco Cabanas is a wonderful little oasis in a very friendly Mexican town. With daily and weekly rates, they will accommodate any vacation budget. The first visit will not be the last, and when you return you’re welcomed back by smiles and warm handshakes all around.
Rentals Loreto - Loreto BCS Your One-Stop Rental Shop
Rentals Loreto, owned by Kathy Hill and Hector Ramirez, offers private homes for your vacation. They have approximately 30 homes/apartments in Loreto from studio suites to five bedrooms for rent. Each home is unique. Many have satellite TV, wireless internet service and a swimming pool. All are well furnished and in good condition. Rentals Loreto will also find a maid service and a cook if you wish. Kathy and Hector have lived in Loreto for many years and are well known and well informed. They want to help you enjoy the many pleasures available and know all the inside scoop. They will arrange tours, fishing, snorkeling, canyon hikes, museum tours, golf, tennis, swimming, and trips to Volcanic Desert Island, desert excursions, and trips to Historic San Javier Mission. Rentals Loreto provides one with a better choice than a hotel and usually it costs less. Four fishermen or a family of six can stay in a beautiful home with a pool for only US$140 per night (summer rates). There are not too many long-term leases (between 3 and 12 months) available in Loreto, but they do happen and, when they do, Rentals Loreto will know about it, so just let them know. You can even let them know how much you want to spend per month, and they’ll keep their eyes and ears open for you. They do have some lovely new apartments. These have one ample bedroom, a full closet, a new bed with bedding and bedside table. The kitchen features complete cabinets, new refrigerator, stove and microwave. All rooms have curtains. The apartments are in two buildings, with the two upper units each having a small patio off the bedroom. Let Rental Loreto welcome you to Loreto, Baja California Sur. They’ll see to it that you enjoy your stay. 22 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
The First Choice in San Carlos Rentals - San Carlos Son Tom and Diane Barroll left snow behind and welcomed the sun, sand and ocean in 2000. Once in San Carlos, they acquired two properties to renovate and became landlords. Others observed their properties and asked them to manage their homes too. Most of the houses that they manage have families living in them part of the year. When the owners are absent, they find that Tom and Diane are exceptional hosts for their homes. Tom and Diane are RE/MAX First Choice Property Management S.A. de C.V. No home should sit empty while its owners are gone, so Tom and Diane see that they are lived in. San Carlos is a lovely vacation spot with every water activity imaginable and, for the newbies, lessons of all kinds are available. There are several volunteer organizations such as Rotary, Lions, and Masons, and organized groups for beading, playing cards, fishing tournaments, quilting and just about anything else, and most everything is within walking distance. The homes range from a one bedroom to the more luxurious three bedrooms with as many full baths. San Carlos and First Choice can accommodate the couple or the crowd. These are homes and not just rentals. The furnishings and extra appliances make life easy. If you want to cook, you have a kitchen. If not, a good restaurant is within a 5- to 10-minute walk. And the San Carlos restaurants are praised for their food and service. Tom and Diane look after each house as if they owned it. They do inspections, supervise construction, check on damage after storms, pay the bills, find a maid or gardener, and keep the property rented, yet available when the owner wants it. Let Tom and Diane settle you into a home away from home, and help make your stay in beautiful San Carlos everything you could want.
Hacienda del Sol
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Just three miles across the water from La Paz is a unique and wonderful FR resort called Hacienda del Sol, a LY PET vacation rental and last remaining RV park in the La Paz area. Hacienda del Sol sits in a tropical setting with many very old giant cacti, palm trees and flowers, with fully furnished, very quiet vacation rentals only 100 yards from the beach of the inner bay. Hacienda del Sol has a couple of long, quiet beaches, separated by a Mangrove forest. The Mangrove forest is a real treasure for bird lovers. An ornithologist once counted more than 300 different species. It is just as wonderful taking their kayaks, and paddling into the tide channels and watching all the birds. Of course, you don’t have to go to the beach to splash in the water. Hacienda del Sol has a solar-heated pool with ionized water, so no more chemicals or Chlorine. In addition, they have a shady palapa where you can put the fish or T-bone on the BBQ. The Quiet Palapa is a cozy, palm thatched place for two with a full kitchen for only $250 plus tax per week. The 1,500-square foot Casa Coromuel is perfect for the entire family and is only $490 per week. The cozy Cabanas is the perfect place for two for only $290 a week. It is only a few steps to the swimming pool and the palapa, and only a 100 yards to the beach to collect clams to cook in the fully equipped kitchen. The 1,100-square foot Casa Sonrisa is a one-bedroom spacious bungalow with plenty of windows, a fully equipped kitchen and two beds for only $390 a week. Or for the private honeymoon getaway, there is Flor De Jamaica with a king bed, full kitchen, jacuzzi and total privacy for just $390. Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 23
Redwagon San Felipe BC
Mexico is one of the hottest travel destinations in the world. It has some of the most beautiful beaches, culture and history,
and, of course, fantastic food. However, people can still get into trouble. Here are 10 tips to help you to stay safe and make sure that your trip is a memorable one.
The Difference is Experience
ND
LY
ND
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PET FRIE
Redwagon Property Services is the perfect consolidation of making a house available for the vacationer and then performing any service that is needed. Located in San Felipe, Redwagon assists absentee home owners by managing their property. Long-term rentals and vacation rental packages can include LY FR escorting the visitor from the border and setting up sunset PET ultralight flights, desert tours and beach excursions. All the homes are well decorated and furnished with everything a person needs. A beachfront rental affords the visitor with a breathtaking sunrise over the Sea of Cortez. A really lucky visitor stays for the full moon’s rising from the Sea. Redwagon provides everything and more that a home owner would need in taking care of the everyday maintenance of a home. They advertise for qualified renters, collect payments, pay bills, inspect properties weekly, coordinate repairs, oversee the repair work and fill water cisterns and propane tanks. Redwagon also offers pre-occupancy services that get the house ready postconstruction. They check, fill and clean. They make sure utilities are up and running. They will arrange furniture, hang pictures, and fill your cabinets with dishes and pots and pans. Along with all the regular maintenance, Redwagon offers house cleaning, house sitting, and pet sitting services. Their cleaning service goes hand and hand with Redwagon. Their cleaning staff are trained in all aspects of house cleaning, so you can be assured that you will find everything ship shape. The staff does everything to make your visit, your rental home or your move into a newly constructed house a good one right down to filling the refrigerator. All vacation rental houses with Redwagon have a three night minimum. Weekly and monthly rates are available. If you wish to stay six months or longer, Redwagon can provide a six- to twelve-month lease for you.
1. Plan your trip ahead of time. The biggest mistake travelers make is unexpected stops and spontaneous decisions. Plan where you will be going and staying. 2. If possible, only travel by day. In rural areas traveling by night can be dangerous due to road hazards, wildlife and livestock, such as cows in the road. 3. Do not give beggars money. Where one person is begging there are 10 more watching who will promptly approach you and try to get money, or follow you and try to pick-pocket you. 4. Learn some basic phrases in Spanish. In most major cities you will find people who speak English, but it's best to know some basics. 5. Do not get into a taxi cab unless you are sure it is a real taxi. If someone approaches you and says “taxi,” do not go with them. Use only taxi stands with legitimate taxi’s parked in line—not in obscure places. 6. Exchange your currency as soon as possible and know where you can exchange currency in the city you are staying. Use only pesos when possible. 7. Always know the address and phone number of your hotel or lodging. If you get lost, or need to get directions, you will need this information. 8. Do not bring very expensive or flashy items. Bring a basic camera, clothing and limited jewelry. If you’re immediately identified as a foreigner, you’ll be an easier target. 9. Give yourself lots of time to get to places. Taxi's and buses can take longer than planned. Leave well ahead of the time to avoid missing your flight, appointment or date. 10. Enjoy yourself! Take the time to eat at authentic places and visit the different sites. If you follow these tips, you’re guaranteed to have a pleasant trip.
Del Borracho Saloon & Grill Loreto BCS Your "Private" Getaway
Del Borracho Saloon & Grill is a U.S. owned and operated business that has become a favorite of Loreto locals; gringos and Mexican alike. The saloon is a great hangout with a huge bar looking out to the sea, with ice cold cervesa, bottle and draft, two pools tables and lots of Baja 1000 memorabilia. And the grub is out of sight! From their kick-butt breakfast with real sausage and biscuit and gravy to the standard hamburgers that are anything but standard, stacked high with all the fixin's and savory beef patties, make them some of the best in Baja. Del Borracho is ideally located a kilometer off Highway One, with the Sierra Gigante mountains behind and an amazing view of the Sea of Cortez, and Isla de Carmen in front and is just a few minutes from the Loreto marina and some of the world's best fishing; including dorado, yellowtail, yellow fin tuna and much, much more. The property is fully fenced and gated offering complete privacy. It has a main house, saloon and restaurant, large covered patio with room for 40 people or more, and four custom casitas with air conditioning, showers and everything anyone would need for an extremely comfortable extended stay. Del Borracho is now offering 10 memberships for two weeks out of the year exclusively for 10 years for only $10,000. That means that up to 15 of your closest friends, family or coworkers can come enjoy the Sea of Cortez, the mountains and huge array of activities in Loreto, like golf, tennis, fishing, diving and snorkeling, back road exploring, visiting the historical missions of Loreto and San Javier, and so much more. One of the coolest spots in Loreto can be yours exclusively, if you act quickly. Only 10 memberships are being offered. 24 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Playas de Rosarito, Baja California
ROSARITO DIRECTORY ICON Descriptions
- Pool/Spa
- Accept Credit Cards
- Pet Friendly
- Wi-Fi / Internet
- Serves Breakfast
- Kitchen/Restaurant
- Beer/Spirits
# - Map Number
Playas de Rosarito
Mexico Living Contact Information Associate Publisher Carlos Durán 661-614-3019 / carlos@mexicoliving.info www.rosarito.org 011-52-661-612-0396 (661) 612-0396 (800) 962-2252 www.rosarito.org
- Reader Poll Winner
WHERE TO EAT American Food La Bamba ........................................... 661-100-2560 Steak & Seafood Bobby’s Baja by the Sea ..................... 661-614-1135 Vince’s Old Pier ............................ 661-612-1253
WHERE TO STAY RV Park/Parque de RV Baja Season RV Parks................................ 661-628-6128 Popotla R.V. Park....................................... 661-612-1501 Motel Camino Inn................................................ 661-612.2803 Hotel / Condo Baja Rentals.................................. www.BajaCatalina.com Bobby’s Baja by the Sea ................. 661-614-1135 Costa Azul ......................................... 800-800-9632 Grand Baja Resort (Puerto Nuevo) ............................................ 877-315-1002
BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z DOG GROOMERS D’ Groomer Dog Grooming .................. 661-100-6218
Dog Grooming - Estética Canina
Certified Master Groomer
Located just south of PEMEX AM-PM across from Tacos Jr. Libre Km 28.5, Popotla Blvd. Rosarito, Appts: Tues, Weds and Thurs
661-100-6218 • 125*317*7317 Elevators/Elevadores To The Top Elevators.................................. 661-614-1434 FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company........ ......................686-576-0653 FISH/PESCADERÍA Vince's Old Peir ......................................... 661-612-1253 Home Furnishings Baja Nueva Decorating Studio.................... 686-211-4676 Custom contemporary furniture & home accessories Serving Rosarito, Ensenada, Puerto Penasco, San Felipe INSURANCE Jorge Cuadros y Asociados........................ 661-612-1295 Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)......... 686-577-1622 Click On
INTERNET .............................................. 661-614-0513
Click On
MAILING SERVICES .............................................. 661-614-0513
REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Nicolas Santos (Rosarito)........................... 619-917-5695 Laura Miller . ...............Rosarito Beach 661-612-5844 .............Member NAR (US) AMPI (Mx) US 619-888-6171 REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES Ensenada Remax....................................... 661-612-1132 REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services................. 760-494-7053 Satellite TV Installation Cisco-Sat................................................... 661-616-0779 STORAGE SERVICES Baja Public Storage........... 619-272-3271, 661-614-1642 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE .............................. 612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . .................................................. 612-142 0001 CALIGAS.................................................... 612-142 0122
Get the Guide At: La Bamba Restaurant Medio Camino (Halfway House) Rosarito Beach Hotel Lobby Coffee Shop D’Groomer - dog grooming Click On - Puerto Nuevo Baja Open House, km 38 Bobby’s Baja by the Sea, km 42
Playas de Rosarito, or Rosarito Beach as it is referred to in English, is a city in the Mexican state of Baja California and is its own municipality. It is located between the Pacific Ocean and coastal foothills, just 20 minutes south of the U.S. border in Tijuana and is a popular destination for tourist, snowbirds and expatriates from the United States. GETTING TO ROSARITO Toll-Road Directions: Immediately after entering Mexico from San Ysidro merge into the right lane and follow the signs to the PLAYAS DE TIJUANA- ROSARITO. You’ll see the border fence to your right as you travel west. Take the right turn-off to the road ENSENADA CUOTA. As you merge, get over into the left lane and stay there. A toll fee of approximately $2.35 US dollars will take you all the way to Rosarito Beach.
WHILE IN ROSARITO BEACH Rosarito Beach offers a large variety of places to stay and thing to do. Rosarito has more than 900 hotel rooms from 25 resorts, hotels & motels and luxurious spas and incredible shopping in any of the Artisan shops with some of Mexico’s finest leather goods, furniture, wrought iron, pottery, marble and traditional Mexico crafts. Rosarito offers 20 miles of white sandy beaches with endless activities including golfing, surfing, fishing, horse back riding, or relax in spa, ATV riding, visit Fox Studio Baja, or enjoy any of the many nightclubs. Rosarito is also the host to the third largest bike ride in North America, held twice annually. Rosarito Beach restaurants offer a culinary paradise of international cuisines. You can choose from traditional Mexican cooking, sensational seafood, delicious steak dinners, and a broad selection of other specialty American, Chinese, French and Italian cuisines. Be sure to visit the well-known lobster village, Puerto Nuevo is just fifteen minutes south of Rosarito, a tourist and culinary destination. Whether staying for vacation or life, you will enjoy Rosarito Beach.
ATM/GETTING CASH Banamex, Bancomer and Bital have 24-houra-day ATMs that accept most U.S. bank cards all along the Tijuana - Rosarito Beach - Ensenada corridor. Only pesos are dispensed from these machines. You can get dollars from an HSBC ATM. Your account in the U.S. is charged that day’s Peso rate of exchange. Your account will also have about a $3.50 service fee deducted. Bital also has a ATM machine (Pesos only) in the AM/PM 24 hours Pemex Station on south end of Rosarito Beach.
Idea For Boys and Girls Club in Rosarito Takes Root by Carlos Durán The City of Rosarito has already donated the land, the State has committed to cover 50 percent of the operating budget and President Calderón has expressed interest in opening clubs throughout the nation. In the few short months that Rosy Torres, daughter of Mayor Hugo Torres, has been working on the project to improve the lives of vulnerable children, she has achieved the above commitments as well as commitments from many other entrepreneurs, and business and civic leaders in town. Many locals have already stepped up to the plate by volunteering their services, such Tijuana topographer Ivan Otanez, architects Maria Fernanda Sanchez and Flavio Montoya, and Rosarito’s Notary, Luis Durazo. That is only the beginning as they are still seeking construction materials, volunteer construction workers, a solid sponsor to cover 50 percent of the operating costs during the first three years and individual donations. The Ideal Place to Grow Up is the motto for the club. Many expats are already familiar with the importance these clubs play to prevent gang involvement, addictions, sexual abuse, porn, and physical and psychological abuse in broken families. Children between the ages of 6 and 16 may apply if they are being cared for by a single parent or otherwise vulnerable. Activities to aid children with homework, sports and art classes, and a computer room for research and recreation are being planned. If you can help make our local club successful, visit http://clubninosyninasrosarito.synthasite.com and get involved. Our community will prosper because of our collective effort. Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 25
Ensenada, Baja California Get the Guide At: Baja Mart & Deli – at Baja Mar Baja Country Club Bajamar Golf Resort Magañas La Misión Restaurant La Vendimia Restaurant CasaMar Restaurant El Rey Sol Restaurant El Rey Sol Hotel The Happy Pharmacy
Ensenada
Mexico Living Contact Information Associate Rachel Pack MX 686-230-9933 / rachel@mexicoliving.info www.enjoyensenada.com 011-52-646-172-3022 (800) 310-9687 www.enjoyensenada.com
Ensenada is the third-largest city in the Mexican state of Baja California. It is located 116 km (about 70 miles) south of the San Diego/Tijuana border crossing. The city had a 2005 census population of 260,075. Ensenada is also the municipal seat of Ensenada. Located in the Bahía de Todos Santos — an inlet of the Pacific Ocean — Ensenada is an important commercial and fishing port as well as a cruise ship stop. The city is backed by small mountain ranges. Due to its location on the Pacific Ocean and Mediterranean latitude, the weather tends to be mild year-round. GETTING TO ENSENADA Getting to Ensenada has never been easier or faster. A US driver license is valid in Mexico, so you Mexican auto insurance is required by law if you drive in Mexico. Taking The Bus from San Diego is another option. Take the San Diego Trolley to San Ysidro, then walk across the border to the small Plaza Viva bus station. ABC (Autotransportes Baja California) buses depart for Ensenada every half hour beginning 6AM - 9:30PM, you can call 1-52-(664)683-5681; fare is approx. $6.50dlls 1-way. Greyhound Bus Lines (U.S. toll free: 800-2312222). Greyhound Lines will take you to Tijuana’s Central Bus Terminal (Central Camionera) from anywhere in the US and connect to any major Mexican bus line, including ABC. If you Arrive By Ship to the Ensenada port terminal, which holds two ships and each pier has shopping for Mexican curios and other items. Most cruise tourists arrive on the three and four night cruises Expect to pay about $2 for the five-minute ride to downtown shopping.
26 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
GETTING AROUND TOWN The healthiest and most personal way is ON FOOT. Ensenada is a great city for getting around on your own energy. Most of the shopping is at sea level and easy to navigate with all numbered streets running north and south and celebrity named streets running east and west. TAKING THE BUS if you want some adventure, or want a great sightseeing opportunity. Fare is 7 pesos ($0.65). Buses are called “micro” instead of “bus” or Autobuses. Bus Terminal 646-121-2982 al 87 Calzada Lazaro Cardenas & Rio Alamar La Mesa. IN A TAXI is a great way to get from point A to point B, Taxis Amarillos (Yellow Taxi) is available 24 hours with local and unlimited service available; they will drive you anywhere. Ave. Lopez Mateos & Miramar. English spoken. 646-178-3475. Try RENTING A CAR if you want to get out and explore on your own. Fiesta Rent-A-Car at 646176-3344, located at 1442 Blvd. Lazaro Cardenas or Renta-Car Ensenada at 646-176-3344, located at 582 Lopez Mateos. LODGING & ACCOMMODATION Ensenada has the accommodations to meet any level of comfort or amenities. Prices can range depending on the time of year from $30 to $250+ depending on the hotel. The best hotels in Ensenada are located to the north and south of town along the beach and are not within walking distance from downtown shopping and attractions. Taxi and shuttles are available in some locations.
Up On the Hill
Punta Banda is a narrow, mostly barren, finger of land that pokes out into the Pacific Ocean at the southern end of Bahia Todos Santos near the City of Ensenada. Standing not far from the tip, bus loads of bug-eyed tourists regularly stare out at the myriad of sharp, guano covered outcroppings as they munch on fish tacos and wait for the next influx of water to surge through the legendary blowhole, then spurt up in the air and dissolve into a fine, cool mist. Shack-like concession stands line the end of the road leading to “La Bufadora.” Eager vendors offer visitors everything from the usual array of curios, plaster deities, and metal sculptures to humble preparations of shellfish, or fried seafood. Some of the other residents are fishermen, or charter skiff operators who make a good portion of their income catering to the needs of American anglers and scuba divers that come to this special hideaway to take advantage of the abundant marine life that still exists in the waters surrounding the rugged peninsula and its many hidden coves. The hand of nature has carefully scooped a beautiful crescent shaped bay from the land just south of the blowhole, providing a nearly perfect anchorage that is protected from the northern wind and swells. On a calm day, the waters around La Bufadora turn Mediterranean with cool, clear turquoise hues that anoint the eyes of the weary. Weekend and retirement cottages are interspersed with the austere, tack-board houses of less affluent local residents.
by Lynn Gatch
by Tom Gatch
La Bufadora Yucca Flower
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Ensenada, B.C.
CICESE
SEPTIEMBRE 2009 Mar
Oceanografía Física 18
0
6
2
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18
0
6
3
Jue
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18
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75
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150
6
7
847 1352 124 63
1958 170
8
248 1
905 130
1423 54
2029 172
9
310 3
923 137
1454 45
2059 170
10
331 7
942 144
1526 37
2130 164
11
352 13
1003 151
1600 31
2202 155
12
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19 16
75
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412 22
150
1026 158
1637 28
2236 142
13
433 32
1052 162
1718 27
14
2315 126
453 44
1121 164
1806 29
15
003 109
514 57
1157 162
1909 33
16
113 533 91 69
1245 158
2041 35
17
341 547 83 81
1357 153
2234 27
18
1535 154
2350 12
19
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11 45
75
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701 1050 106 91
150
1706 163
041 -2
20
723 1207 119 75
1814 175
21
121 -12
749 133
1302 56
1908 185
22
157 -17
817 148
1350 37
1956 189
23
230 -15
846 162
1436 20
2041 185
24
302 -7
916 173
1521 8
2125 174
25
332 6
947 181
1606 3
26
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0
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401 22
150
2210 157 PMS
21 50
75
1018 183
1652 3
2256 138
27
429 40
1050 179
1740 9
28
2346 454 118 57
1124 171
1835 19
29
050 517 101 72
1202 159
1944 29
237528 90 85
1252 146
2120 34
1411 135
2257 31
713 954 105 103
1559 132
30
2358 25 PMS NMM
75 0
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713 1144 113 93
1722 136
039 19
728 1231 120 80
150
1818 143
111 15
743 127
145 82
75 0
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1306 66
1859 148
137 14
800 135
1338 52
1936 152
Hora del Meridiano:
105 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
25 4 11 18
ICON Descriptions
- Pool/Spa
- Accept Credit Cards
- Pet Friendly
- Wi-Fi / Internet
- Serves Breakfast
- Kitchen/Restaurant
- Beer/Spirits
# - Map Number
- Reader Poll Winner
then disappear into unseen depressions; paths that often lead to a dead end when they meet with a thick wall of sagebrush and cactus. The bold, thrusting lances of flowering yucca plants stand in stark, solitary challenge to the brilliant blue canopy above them. When the sun hangs at a certain point in the westerly afternoon sky, the surface of the ocean seems to erupt into a sparkling carpet of diamonds, which fills the fortunate onlooker with a feeling of untold wealth. In spring and early summer the hillsides are often smeared with a mustard yellow hue from scores of small wildflowers that bloom as brightly in the sunshine as if they were freshly wiped from the brush of Van Gogh. The broad, stretching arms of a variety of succulent cacti bake in the midday heat, their moist, fleshy insides protected by many thorny soldiers that are ready to offer acute pain to any intruder foolish enough to encroach upon their domain. It is hard to believe that the stressful overcrowding and traffic gridlock of Los Angeles, California, lies just over a hundred miles to the north of this magical hideaway . . . but that is an eternity away from here. Up on the hill, the breeze blows freely through your hair. The pelicans dive into the ocean for their breakfast, and all the creatures of the sea and land are filled with a wild lusting for life. It is a life that is sometimes violent and cruel, but devoid of the many entanglements related to modern, human society. It is a more primitive but, somehow, more credible world.
La Mansion de Ensenada
Home Furnishings Baja Nueva Decorating Studio.....................686-211-4676 Custom contemporary furniture & home accessories Serving Rosarito, Ensenada, Puerto Penasco, San Felipe
. ...............646-178-3271
RV Park/Parque de RV Mona Lisa RV Park.........................................646-177-5100 Popotla R.V. Park............................................661-612-1501 Motels/Moteles America Motel .........................................646-176-1333 Rudis Motel . ..........................................646-176-3245 Ensenada Inn.................................................646-176-1361 Hotel El Joker.................................................646-177-5151 Posada Don Fernando....................................646-177-0127 Azteca Inn......................................................646-177-4015 Hotel Best Western El Cid........................................646-178-2401 Corona Hotel .........................................646-176-0901 Costa Azul . ..................................800-800-9632 Grand Baja Resort (Puerto Nuevo) . ..............................................877-315-1002 Hotel Coral & Marina ........646-175-0000 Hotel La Fonda ........................646-155-0007 Posada El Rel Sol . ..................................646-178-1601 San Nicolas Hotel...........................................646-176-1901 Oxidox Cafe...................................................646-178-8827 Rentals Baja Rentals...................................... www.BajaCatalina.com
BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z
HEALTH SPA La Fonda........................................................646-155-0394 INSURANCE Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking).............686-577-1622 MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS ISSSTE .........................................................646-176-2230 IMSS ............................................................646-120-7771 Centro de Salud.............................................646-152-1371 MUSIC/MUSICA Pharmacy Regia & House of Music................646-174-0557 Professional Services PSN Mexico Professional Services.................646-178-8280 Legal/Immigration Assist FM3/FM2/FMT Import documentation www.psnmexico.com POLICE/POLICÍA Policia Ministerial...........................................646-176-3636 Policia Federal Caminos................................ 646-683-8040 Policia Federal Preventiva ..............................646-176-2579 Prefectura Naval.......................................... 469-0376/2948 public transportation/ el transporte público Terminal de Buses..........................................646-224-1041
Aeropuerto/Airport Aeropuerto ...................................................646-273-1984
REAL ESTATE AGENTS/ AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Nicolas Santos (Rosarito)...............................619-917-5695
Art Gallery Garery Art & Stuff..........................................646-175-8859
REAL ESTATE SERVICES Baja Closing & Escrow Services.....................760-494-7053
WHERE TO EAT
ARTIST Alfonso Arambulua.........................................646-149-3866
Mexican Casa Mar Restaurant Bar................................646-174-0417 www.restaurantcasamar.com Magana’s.......................................................646-155-0586
DEVELOPMENT MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE FRACCIONAMIENTOS Baja Mar Country Club ........................ 1-800-434-2252
utilities/empresas de servicios públicos CFE ..................................612-143 0064 or 612-142 0237 TELMEX . ...................................................... 612-142 0001 CALIGAS........................................................ 612-142 0122
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
ENSENADA DIRECTORY
The grandiose dream of a seaside hacienda stagnates as unfinished masonry sits on a neglected lot filled with scattered stones and chunks of hard, dried mortar. Many of the homes are situated on a sloping bluff above the ocean, crowned by small windmills and black solar panels that help the frugal residents fully utilize the area’s natural amenities. The earth behind the little sea colony quickly rises several hundred feet to form a huge, dusty brown hill from which the marvels of many miles of wild coastline can be observed. To the east, the hill provides an unobstructed view of the massive Sierra Juarez that stands as a barrier between Ensenada and the Sea of Cortez. Years ago, the road out to the end of Punta Banda consisted of little more than graded stones, and was challenged mainly by those who were lured by visions of scallops, abalone and huge fish. Standing on the hill today, it is apparent that the well traveled, twisting line of neglected asphalt, which feeds La Bufadora’s tourist industry, has done little to affect the overall feel of the surrounding landscape. Over time, a few colonies of neo-pioneers have settled in the area, but they have been unable to totally dominate the wildness that encircles them. Copious numbers of quail, rabbits and rattlesnakes still blend into the rough chaparral, as the skies are patrolled by soaring red-tailed hawks in search of a quick meal. The two-legged mammals that live on Punta Banda are generally sturdy, fiercely independent nonconformists who are refugees from the eternal battle between those who like to be told what to do and those who don’t. There are many course gravel roads that wind their way through the dry brush, over mounds of dust, and
WHERE TO STAY
(31 51 N, 116 37 W) Vie
Ensenada, Baja California
Steak & Seafood El Rey Sol......................................................646-178-1601
FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company..................................686-576-0653
Vinos Fuentes Winery
Winery .............................646-171-7070
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 27
Mexicali, Baja California Mexicali is on the Mexico border adjacent to Calexico and is the northernmost city in Latin America, located at 32°40´0˝N 115°28´0˝W. Mexicali is the capital of the Mexican state of Baja California. Mexicali is also the seat of the Municipality of Mexicali. For centuries, the Colorado River fertilized these lands, which would eventually become one of the most important cotton hubs in the world. Americans, Chinese, Mexicans, East Indians and Japanese were so involved in productive endeavors that they forgot to formally found the city. Combining the words “Mexico” and “California,” they came upon the name Mexicali.
mexicaliturismo.com/cotuco/prueba/ingles.
Years later, on March 14, 1903, Mexicali was officially founded and gradually transformed into the capital of Baja California. Today, it is a progressive city and its main industry has gone from agricultural to industrial. The standard of living is the highest in Mexico. It is recognized in Mexico for its sizable investment in education and low unemployment. Annually, thousands of people arrive in Mexicali for a variety of reasons—business, family, hunting, those who are looking to enjoy the surrounding nature. Mexicali’s geographical location and modern infrastructure has also made it a prime location for business meetings, fairs, expos and conventions. Offering a variety of quality products and services, as well as sports and cultural activities, Mexicali has what it takes to suit every visitor’s needs. Source: Mexicali Tourism Board and Wikipedia.org.
EMERGENCY PHONES Policía, Cruz Roja, Bomberos..................................... 066 Hospital General............................ (686) 556-1123 Al 29 Asistencia Turistica..................................................... 078 ISSSTE.......................................... (686) 557-2240 Al 44 Comisión Federal De Electricidad............................... 071 ISSSTECALI............................................(686) 557-2626 Comisión Estatal De Servicios Publicos De Mexicali.073 IMSS........................................................(686) 555-5151 Policia Federal De Caminos....................(686) 554-2909 Centro de Salud.......................................(686) 554-4686 Rescate Brigadas del Sol........................(686) 568-7878 Procuraduria Federal del Consumidor....(686) 557-3085
Los Algodones, Baja California
Los Algodones
Mexico Living Contact Information Associate Publisher Bill Maine 686-231-4921 / billmaine@gmail.com
Get the Guide At: The Mine
Los Algodones DIRECTORY PLACES TO EAT Bars and Club The Green Door Bar....................................... 658-517-7347
Los Algodones, Baja California, is a small Mexican town located on the extreme northeastern tip of the municipality of Mexicali, appro-ximately 16 km (10 miles) west of Yuma, Arizona, USA. It is the northernmost town in Mexico, and at its northeastern tip is the northernmost point in Mexico. Its official name is Vicente Guerrero, although most people use Algodones when referring to it. It reported a population of 4,021 as of the 2005 Mexican census (Segundo Conteo de Población y Vivienda 2005). 28 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Situated near the borders of both southeastern California and southwestern Arizona, Los Algodones has become a popular tourist attraction in recent years due in part to inexpensive shopping and restaurants as well as inexpensive medical care and prescription medicines. The warm, dry climate of the area attracts a number of older tourists from across the United States and Canada who settle during the winter in the nearby U.S. towns of Yuma, Arizona, and Winterhaven, California, and Mexican resort towns of Puerto Peñasco, Sonora, and San Felipe, Baja California.
From the U.S. side, Los Algodones is most easily reached via Interstate 8 and south a short distance (3.33 Km/2.07 mi) along State Route 186/Andrade Road to the international border at Andrade, California. From Andrade, visitors can elect to park their vehicles for a small fee and walk across the border or to drive across. The exact geographical location is 32°42´55˝N 114°43´44˝W at an elevation of 110 feet/33.5 meters above mean sea level. The Spanishlanguage name Los Algodones translates into English as “The Cotton (plants).” Source: wikipedia.org
PLACES TO STAY Motels/Hotels Olympia Motel............................................... 658-517-7347
BUSINESS DIRECTORY A-Z Dentist Dr. Mario A Garibay, DDS ............................. 658-517-3286
EMERGENCY PHONES Bomberos Algodones (FIRE). . . . 658-517-7777 Policia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 066
San Felipe, Baja California San Felipe is a small fishing village that historically has been economically dependent on fishing, however today tourism and real estate provide the economic base. Even as it grows into the next century with four-lane highways, multipump fueling centers that shines bright even after the moon has drop behind the majestic mountains it will remain a small fishing village in its heart and soul. Today San Felipe is maturing into a sophisticated resort community with destination resort developments, luxury condos, fine restaurants, sport fishing charters and worldclass off-road adventures. San Felipe sits on the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez), 118 miles (190 km) south of the US border and within the municipality of Mexicali. Directly behind San Felipe to the west is Sierra San Pedro Martír, the tallest mountains in Baja, forming a protective wall from Pacific storms. San Felipe has 23-foot tides (7-meters) exposing a kilometer or more of ocean floor. One of the largest tidal bores in the world due in part to the Colorado River delta to the north.
The San Felipe Arches The monument at the entrance to San Felipe was built in 1980 to represent the commitment of the four states around the Sea of Cortez (Baja California Norte, Baja California Sur, Sinaloa, and Sonora) to promote tourism and the regions beauty and charm.
GETTING TO SAN FELIPE
If you are Driving your car or a rental (you MUST purchase Mexican Auto Insurance) to San Felipe is straightforward, because all roads lead south. The Mexicali/San Felipe highway is a breath-taking visual experience from wetlands to moonscapes to vistas that fall off the horizon. Most car rentals in El Centro, San Diego, and Yuma Airports sell Mexican Auto Insurance. The San Felipe International Airport has a runway of 4850 feet that is in excellent condition. The available oriented 310° and 130°, coordinates 30°57’ lat. 114°51’ long. The radio control tower operators are bilingual.
SAN FELIPE DIRECTORY ICON Descriptions
- Pool/Spa
- Accept Credit Cards
- Pet Friendly
- Wi-Fi / Internet
- Serves Breakfast
- Kitchen/Restaurant
- Beer/Spirits - Reader Poll Winner
# - Map Number
PLACES TO EAT
American Los Arcos . .......................... 686-577-2585 Baja Java .................................... 686-577-2465 Baja Jimmys.............................................686-139-7373 Beach Bar & Grill ................... 686-577-3144 Blowin’ Smoke BBQ .................................. 686-576-0710 Breakfast The Bistro “Java Jitters”
....... 686-114-7735
Burgers Baja Burger................................................ 686-577-2465 Chilis & Burgers......................................... 686-577-6196 Ice Cream Chumpo’s Pizza and Ice Cream.................. 686-577-0085 Japanese Oshii Japanese Restaurant......................... 686-184-9790 Mexican The Beach Bar and Grill ......... 686-577-3144 El Apetito................................................... 686-139-1943 El Club....................................................... 686-577-1175 Juanitos (El Colorado) ....................... 686-133-6500 La Palapa Bar & Grill ............. 686-200-4083 Mi Casa es Tu Casa.................................... 686-577-1495 Rancho Alegre ........................ 686-576-0648 Restaurant Playa Azul ........................ 686-120-9051 Rice & Beans ....................................... 686-577-1770 Rosita . ......................................... 686-577-1903
Pizza Fatboy’s
............................ 686-577-4092
ATM/GETTING CASH
San Felipe
Mexico Living Contact Information Associate Publisher Bill Maine 686-231-4921 / billmaine@gmail.com sanfelipe.com.mx (COTUCO) 011-52-686-577-1104
IMPORTANT NUMBERS Emergency Help (Like USA 911) Airport Civil Protection Unit Comision Federal de Electricidad District Attorney Fire Dept. Health Dept. Hospital Immigration Office Mayor’s Office Police Local Police Federal Police State Judicial Port Captain Red Cross Secretary of Tourism Telnor Tourism Dept. Tourist Assistance (Green Angels)
066 686-577-1368 686-577-1433 071 686-577-1110 686-577-1182 686-577-1521 686-577-0117 686-577-1083 686-577-1021 686-577-1134 686-577-1045 686-577-1203 686-577-1577 686-577-1544 686-577-1155 686-577-1000 686-577-1155 078
Get the Guide At: Baja Nueva Blowin’ Smoke BBQ Botica Sagrado Corazon Charley AM/PM Airport Road Chumpos Pizza & Ice Cream CSI Baja Fat Boy’s Pizza Juanitos Restaurant Lillyana’s Day Spa Lighthouse Los Arcos Happy Jackass Maderas de San Felipe Maxivision Optical Oasis Market Playa Azul Restaurant Rancho Otro Market Redwagon Rosita Resturant Santa Fe Ph. SunRunner Mail Srvc. Yetmail Z Market
Because of the close proximity of Northwest Mexico to the USA, most invoices, and receipts at restaurants, hotels, gas stations, etc., will be in both dollars and pesos. It is a good idea to convert your money into pesos for local purchases. You will likely save money. ATMs at Banamex Bank on Chetumal, Bancomer Bank on Mar de Cortez and Chetumal or AM/PM on Mar Caribe Sur.
THINGS TO DO
San Felipe offers endless things to do and or not do depending on your personal goals. San Felipe beaches extend north and south for over 50 miles of shoreline to explore. Off Road adventures, await you beyond every horizon, which is why San Felipe is home to the SCORE International Baja 250. The desert terrain surrounding San Felipe is vast and offers incredible trails and exploration for ATV’s, dirt bike or off-road vehicle. Just south of San Felipe are extensive sand dunes ideal for buggies and rails. ATV Rentals are also available. The Valley of the Giants: The natural reserve of the thousand-year-old Cardon Cactus has become a major attraction Shopping, San Felipe offers great shopping for bargain, souvenirs, arts and much more. Much of the shopping can be found downtown on the Malecon, Mar de Cortez, or Chetumal leading into town. However, all around town you’ll find great finds.
Los Arcos - Happy Jackass . .......... 686-577-2585 Popeye’s Pizza........................................... 686-577-1122 Rabbit Pizza Delivery.................................. 686-577-0987 Spanish Miguel & Paco
................................ 686-111-2257
Steak & Seafood ................. 686-577-1580 Al’s Backstreet Cantina Green House.............................................. 686-181-6358 ................................................ 686-577-1028 El Nido ............ 686-577-2540 Lighthouse Restaurant . ................................... 686-577-2585 Los Arcos Fine Dining The Latin Garden........................................ 686-209-6369 2-Highway 5 KM 183, San Felipe, BC ............... 686-577-0022 Pavilion Restaurant
PLACES TO STAY RV Park/Parque de RV Club de Pesca............................................ 686-577-1180 Rentals Baja Bill's Property Managment.................. 686-577-4014 ....... 686-577-1431 Casey’s Place
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 29
San Felipe, Baja California
e Around Town in San Felip Summer is definitely upon us in San Felipe. The (bass guitar), Daniel (keyboards & guitar), sound
heat and humidity have been building in our little town, and we realize just how important it is to have an air conditioner! We must remember, though, that the federal subsidy does not cover the whole bill, merely a percentage. But the town is still hopping with entertainment, including the recent Los Tucanes de Tijuana concert right here in San Felipe! Yes . . . they had an amazing light show. Local bands continue to play. JollyMon now features the music of Agave Blues on Friday nights, who welcomed the return of keyboard player, Bill Maine, after his extended vacation. A new conglomeration of musical talent has been found in the Revolution, with former Tres Generation’s Tavo on drums, locals Charley and Hortencia (vocals), David (guitar), Eloy and Manzano
engineer Cheo, and staffer Adaled. Be sure to check them out at the Lighthouse on Saturday nights. ZAPP’s Steven Forman was able to connect with a benevolent animal society that has decided to establish a satellite location in San Felipe. Steven’s been frantically looking for a large piece of property to help the dogs of San Felipe, providing them with refuge from the streets and hospice for the aging and ill dogs. Bravo, Steven! The Sea of Cortez experienced four earthquakes on August 4, ranging from 2.4–5.5 on the Richter Scale. We didn’t feel anything in San Felipe, though the quakes were pretty close to us, just off the coast of Puertecitos. Nothing rumbled, water remained calm, but we did get some high water from Hurricane
Felicia the beginning of August. JollyMon’s Steel Drum was great, even after the drummer had visa issues and couldn’t get across the border, but the event went on with the remaining band members and was a amazing success! We hear that VIP Earth Events will be doing MORE events, so watch your local mail center and JollyMon for posters of the stuff to come. Planned now is a Bob Marley tribute band called One Drop Redemption. They will also be playing in El Centro at The Spot the same weekend. We are still waiting for VIP to provide us with event dates and details. Watch for the review of Steel Drums and Rum in the October edition of Mexico Living. Also, be sure to share your thoughts about the guide’s new format by emailing your local sales rep or editor@mexicoliving.info. Everyone welcomes comments. Have a wonderful month!
MySanFelipeVacation.com........................(686) 109-0579
Rancho del Sol . ................... 686-231-4921 Redwagon Property Services..................... 686-576-0081 Sandollar Condotels................................... 686-123-7688 Places to Stay…Rentals…Sandollar Condotels Seaside Shangri-La Apartment................... 686-577-1573 ........................ 686-577-0745 Su Casa Elegante Motels/Hotels ........................... 686-577-1569 Marina Resort
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) ACCOUNTING/CONTABILIDAD CP E&A Accounting......................................... 686-577-0836
Alterations/sastre San Felipe Seamstress (Vickie Silva).......... 686-175-5420 ARCHITECT/ARQUITECTO Rosa Lina Ramos Lazcano......................... 686-184-6172 ART GALLERY Oasis Fine Art Gallery................................. 686-221-1245 ARTIST/ARTISTA Andrena Joyce ......E-mail: andrenajoyce@yahoo.com Melody Ashley............ E-mail: melodya2004@yahoo.com Robin Waters............................................. 686-115-0526 Sandy Colomb "The Gourd Lady" . ............. 686-576-0384 Watercolors by Mary Lou........................... 686-171-5513 ATTORNEY/ABOGADO Carlos A. Martinez Monges........................ 686-120-1650 Lic. Francisco Sosa Mendez....................... 686-577-0624 ADULT CARE/ATENCION DE ADULTOS San Felipe Adult Living Facility.................... 686-576-0661 BAKERY/PANADERÍA .............................. 686-577-2948 Panaderia Especial BANK/BANCO BBVA Bancomer......................................... 686-577-2224 Silvia Elizabeth Urbea, Preferred Customer’s Unit Ext. 13 BANDS/BANDAS Agave Blues............................................... 686-184-9237 BARS/CLUBS .................. 686-577-1580 Al’s Backstreet Cantina The Beach Bar and Grill ........ 686-577-3144 V Lounge . ........................................... 707-237-1906 Fandango’s . ................................... 686-577-0060 JollyMon.................................................... 686-213-5647
30 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Los Arcos - Happy Jackass
............ 686-577-2585
BEAUTY SALONS/SALONES DE BELLEZA Lilly Ana’s Day Spot ............................ 686-577-6253 BUILDING MATERIALS/MATERIALES DE CONTRUCCIÓN ........................ 686-577-1515 Maderas de San Felipe
church Mission San Felipe..................................... 686-577-0877
Mission San Felipe
Non Denominational Church
(English Speaking)
2 Blocks west of the Glorietta at Chetumal and Mar de Irlanda
SUNDAY SERVICE 8:45 AM Please call 577-0877
San Felipe, Baja California
Perez Construction..................................... 686-576-0650
MexQuest Mortgage Corp..........Toll Free: 1-888-257-9162
COUNSELING-THERAPY/CONSULTA TERAPÉUTICA Inner Connection........................................ 686-255-5447
FILM DEVELOPMENT/IMPRESION DE FOTOS Fotografia Alvarez....................................... 686-577-1144
DELI .................... 686-577-3168 Sand & Sea Market & Deli SunDance Deli ..................................... 686-576-0369 DENTIST/DENTISTA California Dental Spa . .......................... 686-577-0708 Dr. Felix Rodriguez...................................... 686-577-1919 Consultorio Dental Y de Ortodoncia ........... 686-577-6212
CITY SERVICES/SERVICIOS DE LA CIUDAD District Attorney’s...................................... 686-577-1110 Mayors Office............................................ 686-577-1021 COFFEE & TEA/CAFÉ Y TE The Bistro (Java Jitters)............................. 686-114-7735
Baja Nueva
FURNITURE/MUEBLERÍA ......................................... 686-187-7795
COMPUTER SERVICES Computing Integral Solutions...................... 686-577-2370 CSI Baja..................................................... 686-577-2928 CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE CONSTRUCCIÓN San Felipe Management Services............... 686-576-0553 CHOCOLATE/CHOCOLATE Baja Chocolate Lovers . ....................... 686-576-0348
DEVELOPMENTS/FRACCIONAMIENTOS Casablanca................................................ 686-157-1728 Diamante Residencial................................. 686-569-2347 El Dorado Ranch........................................ 686-577-0015 La Perla Del Mar......................................... 760-458-7602 Playa de Oro ........................................ 686-576-0223 Playa del Paraiso.............................. 888-647-5292 x 704 San Rafael................................................. 686-576-0223 Discount Store El Cheap-O................................................. 686-577-6263
Sweitzer Construction Management
..... 686-577-0195
SWEITZER CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT COMPANY BJ Sweitzer Consultant Carlos Mora Contractor
Phone: 577-0195 USA: 011-52-686-577-0195 Email: bejota10@aol.com
DOCTORS/DOCTORES Dr. Victor Abasolo.......... 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174 ENTERTAINMENT/ENTRETENIMIENTO Name That Tune - Denny Flannigan............. 686-576-1683 The Singout Sisters & Chuey (Karaoke) .686-576-0047 EVENT SERVICES/servicios acontecimiento Produciones Baja....................................... 686-576-1683
GENERAL CONTRACTOR/CONTRATISTA GENERAL See HOME BUILDERS/CONTRATISTAS GOLF/GOLF Las Caras de Mexico.................................. 686-576-0517 Graphic Design/Diseño Gráfico GreetScape................................................ 686-188-2393 GYNECOLOGIST/GINECÓLOGO Annel Becerra Prado.................................. 686-577-6350 HATS/sombreros Band It....................................................... 686-123-5147
FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company........ ......................686-576-0653
HEALTH & fitness/SALUD Y ejercicio Squats Gym ........................................ 686-125-1555
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 31
San Felipe, Baja California HOME BUILDERS/CONTRATISTAS M & O Construction................................... 686-124-3908 Oscar Parra................................................ 686-163-6514 Oscar Perez............................................... 686-120-6506 Perez Construction..................................... 686-236-4927
PMD Developments.................................... 638-105-9182 San Felipe Home Builders........................... 686-577-3176
HOME CLEANING/LIMPIEZA DE CASAS Redwagon Property Services..................... 686-576-0081 Housekeeping - Jackie’s Home Help........... 686-228-7480 IMPORT SERVICES/SE RVICIOS DE IMPORTACIÓN San Felipe Storage Company...................... 686-576-0432 Insurance Alani’s Mexican Insurance.......................... 686-577-2464
Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)......... 686-577-1622 Orval Insurance...........................orvalquotes@gmail.com INTERIOR DESIGN/DISEÑO INTERIOR Baja Nueva................................................ 686-211-4676 INTERNET CAFE/CAFE DE INTERNET Soluciones Integrales en Computacions...... 686-577-2370
32 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Kitchen/Bath Cocina/Bano Concepto Casa ..................... 686-576-0731
Meat Markets/Carnecerias Mercados Zsamaniegos Carnecerias (Z Market).......... 686-577-1676
San Felipe, Baja California
PHARMACY/FARMACIA Botica “Sagrado Corazon”.......................... 686-577-1294
POLICE/POLICÍA Federal Preventive Police ........................... 686-577-1045 Police ....................................................... 686-577-1134 PRINTERS/IMPRESORAS Papeleria Copicentro.................................. 686-577-1402 The Print Supplier....................................... 686-230-9933
LANDSCAPING/JARDINERÍA Mauricio's Landscaping.............................. 686-151-8002 Prestige Landscape and Maintenance......... 686-170-8651 Your Paradise...My Passion Versoleil .............................................. 686-576-0664
MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS Ambulance................................................ 686-577-0500 Baja Medical Center................................... 686-576-0200 Health Center............................................ 686-577-1521 Red Cross.................................................. 686-577-1544 Dr. Victor Abasolo.......... 686-577-1706 or 686-573-0174
Santa Fe Pharmacy ................................... 686-576-0546
PROPERTY MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE PROPIEDADES Casey’s Place............................................ 686-577-1431 Custom Vacation Homes............................ 928-277-6863 928-277-7559 & visit www.sanfelipevacations.com Enjoy Baja.................................................. 686-576-0697 Redwagon Property Services..................... 686-576-0081
Optometrists/Opthamologists California Optical........................................ 686-577-0708
LAUNDRY SERVICE/LAVANDERÍA Wash Tub................................................... 686-577-2001 LIFEGUARD/SALVAVIDAS San Felipe Lifeguards................................. 686-233-7730 Ask for Franscio LOCKSMITH/CERRAJERO Gomez Locksmith...................................... 686-221-8337 24 HR Service, Professional Service. Homes, Cars, Boats, Motorcycles, English Spoken Markets/Mercados Hipon/El Pelicano..............................686-577-0104/0204
Oasis BEST CIGARETTE PRICES................ 686-577-1276 MASSAGE/MASAJE Casey’s Place (Massage)........................... 686-577-1431
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 33
POSTAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS POSTALES Yetmail....................................................... 686-577-1255
Sand & Sea................................................ 686-577-3168 ........................ 686-147-6752 SunRunner Mail Center
cms
0
6
Dom 18
0
6
Lun
18
Pto. Peñasco, Son.
CICESE
SEPTIEMBRE 2009 0
6
1
400
Oceanografía Física
Mar
18
0
6
2
Mie
18
0
Jue
6
3
18
0
6
Vie
4
18
0
6
5
Sab
18
PMS
10 0 3
200
NMM
0
BMI
113 364
400
6
7
715 26
1338 464
1952 70
8
137 401
740 -2
1400 486
2010 41
9
202 433
806 -20
1422 499
2030 16
10
227 460
831 -29
1445 504
2051 -4
254 478
11
856 -26
1510 498
2112 -17
12
PMS
20 16
200
NMM
0
BMI
322 485
400
922 -10
1534 484
2137 -21
13
352 478
950 17
1559 460
2203 -14
14
423 458
1019 57
1624 427
2232 6
15
459 424
1051 107
1649 385
2306 38
16
544 378
1131 164
1715 336
2350 80
17
700 330
1240 1748 223 283
110 124
18
958 324
1710 2125 222 243
19
PMS
12 45
200
NMM
0
BMI
420 115
400
1133 380
1808 2330 161 296
20
536 55
1218 441
1839 97
21
021 365
626 -7
1254 493
1909 35
22
101 434
707 -56
1328 531
1939 -21
23
139 491
746 -84
1401 552
2010 -64
24
217 529
823 -88
1434 552
2041 -87
254 544
25
859 -68
1506 531
2112 -86
26
PMS
22 50
200
NMM
0
BMI
331 534
400
PUBLICATIONS/PUBLICACIONES Gringo Gazette........................................... 686-111-3692
(31 18 N, 113 33 W)
933 -26
1537 493
27
2142 -64
406 502
1006 30
1607 443
2211 -24
28
442 453
1037 93
1633 387
2239 25
29
519 396
1107 155
1654 333
2305 78
603 338
1139 1658 211 284
2334 130
739 290
036 177
1123 306
1854 2317 197 231
30
PMS
Mexico Living Magazine............................. 686-577-1377 San Felipe Newsletter................................. 686-577-2898 REAL ESTATE AGENTS/AGENTES DE BIENES RAÍCES Bill Maine................................................... 686-231-4921 REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES .................................... 686-577-0611 Amor Property Baja 24/7 Construction & Real Estate......... 686-577-6196 Desert Hawk.............................................. 686-577-1244 Sea Mexico Realty (SMR)........................... 686-576-0223 REAL ESTATE SERVICES/servicios DE BIENES RAÍCES Baja Closing & Escrow Services................. 686-576-0653
NMM
200 0
BMI
501 160
1159 343
1842 2359 160 277
549 119
1221 378
1846 121
025 324
400
428
200
214
0
0
620 80
1241 410
1859 81
049 370
647 44
1302 438
1914 44
Hora del Meridiano:
90 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
25 4 11 18
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
RECREATION/RECREACIÓN San Felipe Sailing-Sailing Lessons.............. 686-114-3259 Aerodynamic - Ultralight flights . ................ 686-116-2933 SATELLITE TELEVISION & INTERNET/ TELEVISION SATELITALES Y INTERNET CSI - Computer & Satellite Installation........ 686-577-2928
Computer & Satellite Installation • Dish Network TV • Satellite Internet
• Computers • DVD Rentals
686-577-2928 shane@csibaja.com SERVICE ORGANIZATIONS/ ORGANIZACIONES DE SERVICIO Club Las Amigas........................................ 686-202-0455 San Felipe Lions Club................................. 686-212-3599 San Felipe Rotary....................................... 686-576-0112 SHOPPING MALL/CENTRO DE COMPRAS La Plazita................................................... 686-577-2119 Solar Baja Solar Systems.................................... 686-111-0504 SPECIALTY STORES Sea of Cortez Salt...................................... 686-209-0074 STORAGE/ALMACÉN San Felipe Storage Company...................... 686-576-0432 TATTOOING/TATUAJES Baja Ink Spot Tattoo & Body Piercing.......... 686-577-0746 TIRE SHOP/lLANTERA Llantera Aguilar.......................................... 686-192-8462 TRANSLATION/TRADUCCIÓN Carlota Villagran B...................................... 686-212-9951 TRANSPORTATION/TRANSPORTACIÓN Airport....................................................... 686-577-1368 Taxi Service............................................... 686-577-1293 Bus Station ............................................... 686-577-1516 utilities/empresas de servicios públicos Electric (CFE)................. 686-577-1060 or 686-577-5602 Estrella Azul (Water Dispensery)................. 686-577-1314 Propane Gas.............................................. 686-577-2373 State Com. of Services Public.................... 686-556-1383 Telnor Phone Co......................................... 686-577-1000 Water Company......................................... 686-577-1022 VETERINARY/VETERINARIO Hospital Animal.......................................... 686-577-1688 PETS......................................................... 686-577-2155 Veterinaria Mundo Animal........................... 686-577-2663
34 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
WASTE MANAGEMENT/MANEJO DE DESHECHO San Felipe Disposal.................................... 686-121-1004
Mulegé, Baja California cms
0
6
Dom 18
0
6
Lun
18
0
6
1
80
Santa Rosalía, B.C.S.
CICESE
SEPTIEMBRE 2009 Mar
Oceanografía Física 18
0
6
2
Mie
18
0
6
3
Jue
18
0
6
4
(27 15 N, 112 12 W) Vie
18
0
6
5
Sab
18
PMS
10 0 3
40
NMM
0
BMI
404 8
80
6
7
1231 17242057 87 74 79
8
432 11
1234 1733 2155 84 69 79
9
459 16
1238 1752 2250 82 62 77
10
526 23
1245 1817 2345 80 54 75
11
551 33
1255 79
1849 46
12
PMS
20 16
40
NMM
0
BMI
046 72
80
613 44
1304 78
1926 38
13
159 623 68 56
1313 77
2010 31
14
343 545 67 66
1254 77
2111 25
15
1034 85
2242 18
16
1037 93
000 11
17
1054 98
100 4
18
1111 101
19
PMS
12 45
40
NMM
0
BMI
153 -2
80
1121 100
240 -5
20
1124 98
1804 1922 76 76
21
323 -4
1127 94
17382100 71 79
22
405 2
1135 91
1734 2213 62 80
23
444 13
1149 87
1743 51
24
2319 79
520 28
1205 83
1806 39
027 77
25
551 45
1220 80
1833 29
26
PMS
22 50
40
NMM
0
BMI
141 606 74 60
80
1227 77
27
1902 21
326 534 929 1049 1159 73 72 76 7676
1935 16
28
920 85
2013 14
29
945 90
2113 14
1013 92
2321 14
1038 91
037 13
1056 88
30
PMS
40
NMM
0
BMI
126 12
1104 84
207 13
1103 80
243 15
80
79
40
40
0
1100 76
0
16582022 56 61
314 19
1100 73
1652 2127 49 63
Hora del Meridiano:
90 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
25 4 11 18
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
Mulegé is situated at the mouth of the Río Santa Rosalía (26°53´17˝N 111°58´53˝W), in the state of Baja California Sur, 38 miles south of Santa Rosalia, at the mouth of Bahía de Concepción. In 2005, the reported population was 3,317. Nestled between two hills in a lush tropic palm oasis divided by a shaded river that runs towards an estuary that flows to the sea, Mulegé is rich in history with lots of great sites to see, including the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, founded in 1705; the old state penitentiary, finished in 1907; and the Sierra de Guadalupe cave paintings. Outdoor activities abound, from mountain biking, scuba diving and kayaking to deep sea
fishing. The cold northern current and the warm southern current come together to create an environment great for catching some of the 100 different species of fish in the Mulegé waters. By land, Mulegé is 650 miles south of the San Diego/Tijuana border crossing on Mexican Highway 1, and in 2010, via Highway 5 through San Felipe. By Air, Mulegé is served by three airstrips: Hotel Serenidad Airstrip (El Gallito), the Mulegé Municipal and Punta San Pedro. Regional flights are available at the Palo Verde Airport, and international flights are available at the Loreto Airport.
Mulegé DIRECTORY PLACES TO EAT Mexican La Casitas...................................................615-153-0019 Tacos y Pollos “Del Castillo”........................615-153-0378
PLACES TO STAY Bed & Breakfasts Clementine's B&B.......................................615-153-0319 Casa del Los Suenos B&B...........................615-155-4087 Hotel Desert Inn...................................................200-124-9122 Hotel Serenidad...........................................615-155-4087 Mulegé Hotel...............................................615-153-0090 San Buenaventura Hotel..............................615-153-5616 Terrazas Hotel.............................................615-153-0009
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) Tours/adventures Baja Tropicales................................................ 615-153-0320
Mulegé Sportfishing....................................615-153-0482 Cortez Explorers..........................................615-153-0500
Photos by Don McDonald
RV Oasis Rio Baja............................................615-153-0425 Villa Maria Isabel RV Park............................615-153-0246
SANGUINEZ PRISON Baja’s Prison of Hope by Mary Eileen Twytnan
The Conch’s wail wafted over Mulegé and slowly settled into the evening’s shadows, which were beginning to stretch leisurely across the dusty roadways. Pablo Murillo, playing seal in the Rio Mulegé, trying to swim with as little limb movement and ripple as possible, laughed at his efforts and broke into firm strokes, reaching the bank in seconds. The eerie sound was just fading as he walked up the bank, tossing his blue-black hair out of his eyes with a quick movement that arched a crystal spray against the scattered rays of sunlight still piercing through dense growth to touch the earth. Already dry from the blasting desert heat, he pulled on his trousers. He started walking while carelessly stuffing a corner of his shirt in the back pocket, leaving the rest to hang flagging behind him as his long strides turned him up hill. He felt pretty darn good. He looked up toward his destination, the imposing building situated on the hill’s highest point—Sanguinez Prison. His growing sense of well-being made it hard for even him to believe he was a prisoner. In fact, today, that jolt of amazement made him smile as he thought about the pesos nestled deep in his pocket and his cache of many more buried in his cell. His thoughts turned to that wary eyed little boy that was himself, born and raised in a grim Baja California village. It seemed his family was always scraping and scratching to survive, never sure, once one sparse meal was finished, where the next one The gates were never would come from. That boy, that locked during the day, family seemed so far away, yet which is why this was “Baja’s Prison of Hope.” Pablo knew that boy and that
The prison structure is still in excellent condition.
family were the very basis of his firm determination to be the best he could be, for himself and mostly for them. He had become an excellent thief, and the relief his efforts brought to his unquestioning family were reward enough to spur him on—until the night when, cornered and threatened with capture, he killed a man. With a harsh effort of will, he headed off this downward thrust of his thoughts. The padre had assured him he was forgiven, that the rest of his life was not meant to be spent mired and trapped in guilt. Pablo reached the entrance of the stockade, but before he walked in he let his eyes roam over Mulegé, and his thoughts soared with his gaze. Growing up with nothing but burning sand under his feet and as far as he could see in all directions, this encompassing view of Mulegé’s thick green vegetation and freely flowing water never failed to refresh his spirit, even more so than his daily swim in the Rio Mulegé refreshed his body. When he was a young boy, Pablo would sit at the window, his mother’s homemade curtains fluttering around him in the warm breeze, and look past the lean cow and scrawny chickens, his brothers and sisters playing in the dirt yard, and try to imagine what lay beyond the jagged mountains rising from the distant desert floor. When he first came to Sanguinez, knotted in despair and homesickness, he had taken a piece Continued on page 47.
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 35
Loreto, Baja California Sur
Around Town in Loreto with man ynn Ham
L
Summer Fest in Loreto was held Saturday,
new concessions, air conditioning and more
August 8, just off the Malecon. A local well-
parking; however, they still need to work out
known band, Hijos de Sanchez, performed
a few inconveniences.
along with two reggae bands from La Paz
Let’s get fit Loreto! There are Zumba
and some DJs to wrap the night up. Local
classes
vendors such as Del Borracho Saloon &
Independencia in the Al-Anon building. The
Grill offered burgers, hot dogs, etc., and
classes are given by Erika. The teacher has
there were plenty of drinks to purchase.
classes going almost all day, even in the heat!
Proceeds went to the Recycle Team at the
The fee is minimal and everyone is welcome!
University, DIF and Marine Park.
Also, there are free Yoga classes and power
Monday
through
Friday
off
Every year Loreto hosts their own Baja
walks on the Malecon—do this early to avoid
car races. Very much like the SCORE Baja
the heat. After all this exercise, you may need
1000, Loreto does a 250 km and a 400 km.
a massage by Sergio (Hotel Las Flores de
The Loreto 400 was August 15 (party) and
Posada), Jossy (Coco Cabanas) or Laura
August 16 (race). The race began in Loreto
(Misioneros, No.32, on the right side of
arroyo, traveled up to San Javier then over
Estafeta office).
to Insurgentes, back through Comondu and
Well, off for my massage . . .
ended in Loreto. The start line is always Loreto, founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionaries, was the first Spanish settlement on the east coast of the Baja California peninsula. Loreto, situated on the Sea of Cortez, 26º00’46” N 111º20’36” W, served as the capital of the province of Las Californias from its founding until the capital was moved to Monterey on February 3, 1777. The 2005 census reported a population of 10,283. Today Loreto is a tourist resort, catering mostly to U.S. travelers, with daily flights from California arriving at Loreto International Airport. Many of the American tourists enjoy fishing in “pangas”
LORETO DIRECTORY PLACES TO EAT
exciting for the people who line the arroyo to watch the race cars take off; there are jumps and curves for the vehicles to maneuver to
Get the Guide At:
woo the crowd. There is a Mexican Baja
La Cas Cada Restaurant
1000 planned for September 16 to go from Mexicali to La Paz with scheduled stops
Silver Desert Jewelry & Gifts
for Bahia de Los Angeles and Loreto. As I
Bar Eclipse Hotel Luna
understand it, this race has been abandoned
El Canaveral
for many years and is making a comeback.
Dali Gourmet
On July 15, Loreto International Airport opened their new terminal. Rumors continue
La Mision Hotel.......................................... 613-134-0350 Tripui Hotel................................................. 613-133-0818 Rentals Coco-cabanas........................................... 613-135-1729 El Tiburon Casitas.............................. US (805) 748-4566 Hamman’s Vacaciones............................... 613-135-0791
Coco Cabanas
with the addition of Aero Mexico Airlines
La Damiana Inn
soon to arrive again in Loreto from San Diego. The new terminal is very nice with
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Loreto, B.C.S.
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Mediterranean Mediterraneo.............................................. 613-135-2571 Mexican 1697.......................................................... 613-135-2538 La Cascada Restauran............................... 613 135-0550 Mita Gourmet............................................. 613-135-2025
for “dorado” (Mahi-mahi or Dolphin Fish). Local restaurants will even prepare the daily catch of the tourists. Loreto has an excellent museum alongside the historic, but still active, parish. The Spanish Fathers found a steady spring of fresh water on this site. Loreto’s climate is hot and humid, with abundant sunshine (desert with some rainfalls in summer). The medium temperature is 76 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperatures are hot from June through October. These summer days have highs around 93 degrees Fahrenheit and high humidity.
Mar
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BMI
252 3
80
Seafood 1697.......................................................... 613-135-2538 Augie’s Bar and Bait Shop
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7
8
311 4
1024 1434 75 55
2046 98
9
331 7
1026 1504 76 47
2118 97
10
348 12
1028 1536 79 40
2150 93
11
404 19
1033 1610 83 34
2223 87
12
PMS
20 16
NMM
0
BMI
417 26
PLACES TO STAY
80
1041 87
1646 28
13
2257 78
426 35
1049 92
1727 25
14
2331 425 66 42
1057 96
1813 25
15
008 353 54 46
1109 100
1921 26
16
1127 101
2148 24
17
1154 100
033 14
18
1237 95
19
PMS
12 45
40
NMM
0
BMI
113 3
Villas de las Palmas................................... 613-135-2256 US 760-603-8313
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
36 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
2013 98
40
Motel Motel El Dorado..................................686-613-135-1500
Hotel Hacienda Suites......................................... 613-135-1693 Hotel Coco Cabana.................................... 613-135-1729 Hotel Luna................................................. 613-135-2288 Hotel Oasis (in Mexico).........................01-800-624-9449 Toll free US: 1 866 482 0247 La Damiana Inn.......................................... 613-135-0356 La Daminanas............................................ 613-135-0356
10231404 75 62
AIRPORT Loreto International Airport......................... 613-135-0565 BUS Loreto Bus Terminal................................... 613-135-0767 TOURISM Loreto Tourism Office..................................613-135-0411 MEDICAL Red Cross...................................................613-135-1111 Hospital Centro de Salud
80
1430 88
20
142 -5
9411236 80 74
1830 91
21
210 -9
936 1328 80 61
1940 96
22
238 -7
944 1413 81 46
2031 97
23
305 -0
956 1456 83 33
2121 94
24
329 11
1006 1538 87 22
2206 86
25
349 24
1014 91
1620 15
26
PMS
22 50
40
NMM
0
BMI
400 36
80
1017 94
27
1700 12
2329 356 64 46
1021 98
1742 13
28
004 313 53 49
1028 100
1829 17
29
1042 99
1932 22
1059 96
2120 25
1117 91
031 21
1115 84
30
PMS NMM
40 0
BMI
102 16
80 40 0
2250 76
953 79
125 13
930 1349 1845 76 66 75
146 12 88 44 0
921 1352 74 56
1931 78
207 12
918 1411 74 46
2012 81
Hora del Meridiano:
90 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
25 4 11 18
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
La Paz, Baja California Sur
Around Town in La Paz with man ohn Ash
J
It seemed like only a few weeks ago that I was waving good-bye to part timers and tourists alike here in La Paz. But now it’s already September as you read this, and that means the heat is going to start dialing back and the seasonal folks are on their way back soon for more fun in the sun. If you plan on visiting or are here during the third week of September, La Paz will be celebrating Mexico’s Independence Day on the 15th and 16th with fireworks and other fesivities. And for those building or living here in La Paz, Home Depot is officially coming to town early next year near Walmart and Sam’s Club and has begun hiring already. This is significant simply because it ican be difficult to find the tools and items needed to work on your house because, quite frankly, it’s too hard to remember all the Spanish names of all of them. As in the U.S., I don’t think it will be the least expensive place to buy anything, but will have it in stock and will more likely be open when you come by if you’re in a hurry.
La Paz Phone Numbers
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Ferry Office
060
Green Angels 124-0100
Legal Assistance
061
Immigration
124-6349
Fire
068
Red Cross
066
Oceanografía Física
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La Paz, B.C.S.
CICESE
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Tourism Department 078 Police Emergency
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(24 10 N, 110 21 W) Vie
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315 5
100
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951 1436 92 57
2022 117
8
333 5
958 1500 94 49
2052 120
9
349 7
1006 1527 97 41
2122 120
10
405 11
1016 102
1558 35
2152 117
11
423 16
1027 107
1630 30
2222 111
12
PMS
20 16
50
NMM
0
BMI
439 24
100
1039 113
1704 28
13
2251 101
452 32
1053 117
1738 27
14
2319 90
456 40
1108 121
1815 2349 452 28 77 47
15
1127 123
1901 30
16
023 427 63 52
1150 121
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131 225 4949
17
1220 116
2311 31
18
1318 106
19
PMS
12 45
50
NMM
0
BMI
100 18
100
9431138 1704 91 90 104
20
146 7
904 1319 1848 93 73 114
21
222 -0
906 1402 99 55
1951 123
22
254 -1
920 105
1443 39
2040 127
23
323 4
937 111
1522 26
2122 125
24
346 13
954 117
1559 18
2158 117
25
403 25
1007 122
1635 15
26
PMS
22 50
50
NMM
0
BMI
417 35
100
1020 126
1709 16
27
2301 94
424 44
1032 128
1744 20
28
2330 423 82 50
1047 128
1822 26
29
000 410 70 55
1103 123
1911 34
038315 58 56
1119 116
2101 40
1120 106
017 36
1044 96
30
PMS NMM
50 0
BMI
112 28
913 1351 1751 92 80 89
142 22
856 1352 1855 93 69 96
205 19
100
107
50
54
0
2231 106
0
853 95
1406 1936 58 103
225 18
854 98
1425 47
2011 109
Hora del Meridiano:
90 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
25 4 11 18
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
La Paz (“The Peace”) is the capital city of Baja California Sur located at 24.1405°N 110.3123°W and is an important commercial center. Its surrounding municipality, which is the fourthlargest municipality in Mexico in geographical size, in 2005 reported a population of 219,596 living on 7,828.2 square miles of land. La Paz is typically dry and warm with averages of 75–77 degrees Fahrenheit, and 300 days or better of sunshine annually. Summer months are often in the 90’s and can be humid. The winter months can drop below 60, but stays mostly in the mid-60’s. During the summer the cooling Coromuel winds, a weather phenomenon unique to the La Paz area, blow from Bahia de La Paz keeping the temperature mild. By Air, La Paz is served by Manuel Márquez de León International Airport with flights to the U.S., Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey. Two ferry services operate from Pichilingue outside the city, connecting the Baja California peninsula to the mainland at Mazatlán and Topolobampo. By Road, La Paz is served mainly by two highways, Highway 1 that links the south of the state from Cabo San Lucas to the north of the peninsula until Tijuana, and Highway 19, which connects La Paz with the population of the South Pacific towns like Todo Santos and El Pescadero.
LA PAZ DIRECTORY PLACES TO EAT Cafe Capri...................................................624-123-3737 Gorilla’s Grill...............................................612-128-8095 Le Bistrot Francais......................................612-125-6080
PLACES TO STAY Hotels Araiza Inn Palmira $$..................................612-121-6200 Club El Moro $$..........................................612-122-4084 Crowne Plaza $$$.......................................612-124-0830 La Casa Jalisco...........................................612-12-84311 La Concha Beach Resort $$$......................612-121-6344 La Posada de Engelbert $$..........................612-122-4011 La Posada de Las Flores $$$$....................612-125-5871 Los Arcos $$$............................................612-122-2744 Marina Hotel $$$........................................612-121-6254 Mediterrane $..............................................612-125-1195 Seven Crown Hotel $$$$.............................612-128-7787
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) FERRY SERVICE Baja Ferries.................................................612-125-7443 GOVERNMENT SEMATUR...................................................612-125-8899 Baja California Sur State Government..........612-124-0199 La Paz Post Office
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 37
San Jose Del Cabo, Baja California Sur
SAN JOSE DEL CABO Phone Numbers
Police 624-142-0361 Emergencies 066 Fire Dpt. 116 Airport - AEROPUERTO 624-146-5111 Ambulances. 624-143-4020 City Hall 624-142-2960 Consumer Protection (PROFECO) 624-42-8076 Chamber of Commerce (CANACO) 624-143-0437
Drinking Water Electric Power Co. - (CFE) Family Protection - (DIF) Federal Police - (PJF) Fire Department(116) Gas Leaks Harbor Master Health Center
624-142-1392 624-142-0337 624-142-0141 624-143-1210 624-142-2466 624-142-0122 624-142-0722 624-142-0241
SAN JOSE DEL CABO DIRECTORY
San José del Cabo is located in Baja California Sur and is the seat of the municipality of Los Cabos at the south end of the Baja California peninsula. In the 2005 census it had a population of 48,518. Together with neighboring Cabo San Lucas it forms a major tourist destination for travelers, particularly from North America. The two cities are served by Los Cabos International Airport. San José del Cabo offers you tranquility and old world charm, wonderful gift shops showcasing the art of Mexico, fabulous restaurants, fishing, golf, surfing and all the nighttime entertainment you seek. Or you can just relax on one of our many pristine white sand beaches. For nature lovers, a beautiful protected estuary with a variety of fish, turtles, dolphins, exotic marine animals and over 100 species of birds is located on the southeast edge of the city. And the historic artist colony of Todos Santos is an easy one-hour drive to the north, along the scenic Pacific Ocean. Local residents take pride in restoring the town’s 18th century architecture and preserving its quiet, laid-back ambiance. Highway Patrol Immigration Public Services Red Cross Secretary of Tourism Social Security Hospital (IMSS) State Police TELMEX Tourist Assistance
PLACES TO EAT American Applebee’s..................................................624-172-6472 Asian Baan Thai Pan Asian Restaurant and Bar.....624-142-3344 Burgers & More Baja Brewing Company...............................624-146-9995 Cactus Jack's Bar and Grill..........................624-142-5601 Die Trying Cafe...........................................624-142-5657 Coffee & Baked Correcaminos Cafe.....................................624-142-3510 International Local Eight Restaurant................................624-142-6655 Havana Supper Club....................................624-142-2603 Italian & Pizza Buon Appetito.............................................624-142 4040 La Dolce Italian Restaurant..........................624-142-6621 Mexican Don Emiliano Restaurant.............................624-142-0266 Casianos Restaurant................................... 624 142 5928 Brisa Beach Club and Restaurant...................624-142-244 Habanero's Restaurant................................624-142-2626 Jazmin Restaurant.......................................624-142-1760 Seafood La Panga Antigua Restaurant and Bar..........624-142-4041 Steak La Bodega Steak and wine house................624-142-6619
624-146-0573 624-146-5229 624-142-0624 624-142-0316 624-142-3310 624-142-0180 624-142-4104 624-142-0001 624-142-0057
PLACES TO STAY Hotel Baja Vacations............................................877-462-2226 Barcelo Hotels and Resort........................ (624) 146-7500 Cabo Surf Hote...........................................624-142-2666 Desire Resort & Spa...................................624-142-9300 Posada Chabela..........................................624-172-6495 Posada Real Best Western.........................624-142 - 0155 Suites Las Palmas.......................................624-142-2131
Cabo San Lucus, Baja California Sur
Cabo San Lucas DIRECTORY PLACES TO EAT
38 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Mexican Panchos........................................................624-143-2891 Ay... Chihuahua..............................................624-143-3280 Baja Cantina...................................................624-143-0225 Margaritaville.................................................624-143-7401 Mi Casa.........................................................624-143-1933 Restaurant Pancho's & Tequila Bar..................624-143-2891 Seafood La Golondrina................................................624-143-0542 Lorenzillo's.....................................................624-105-0212 The Blue Turtle...............................................624-143-1118 Villa Serena....................................................624-145-8244 International Peacocks.......................................................624-143-1858
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Cabo San Lucas, B.C.S.
CICESE
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Cabo San Lucas (aka Los Cabos or San José del Cabo in Mexico, and Cabo in the U.S.) is at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula at 22.88°N 109.90°W, in the state of Baja California Sur. As of the 2005 census, the population was 56,811. It is the largest community in Los Cabos, and the second-largest in Baja California Sur. The warmth of the waters, the beauty of its beaches, the abundance of fish, the raucous party atmosphere, a resort-studded Tourist Corrider that stretches between the twin towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo in miles of pristine white beaches, and other qualities is quickly making Cabo San Lucas a high-end vacation destination. Cabo San Lucas has the largest Marlin tournament in the world. In the winter, pods of whales can be observed in the ocean bearing their calves in the warm waters. Served by the Los Cabos International Airport for general aviation flights and air taxi service, the town is also a popular port of call for many cruise ships. Exclusive hotels and gated residential communities attract the rich and famous in this wondrous region known as “The Corridor.” Considered some of Latin America’s top resorts, many of these properties have become havens to Hollywood stars, Fortune 500 CEOs and even the U.S. president during the 2002 Asia-Pacific Economic Conference (APEC).
Oceanografía Física
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208 -3
120
6
7
834 100
1351 41
1953 130
8
231 -7
848 106
1418 31
2022 134
9
252 -8
905 113
1446 22
2050 134
10
313 -6
923 119
1515 14
2118 132
11
334 -2
943 125
1544 8
2147 126
12
PMS
20 16
60
NMM
0
BMI
353 4
120
1003 129
1616 6
13
2217 117
412 13
1025 132
1649 7
14
2248 105
428 23
1049 131
1725 13
2321 90
15
443 34
1114 128
1809 21
16
000 74
450 44
1144 123
1914 31
111 417 57 53
17
1230 114
2219 33
18
1420 106
19
PMS
12 45
60
NMM
0
BMI
007 19
120
815 1055 1656 82 80 111
20
049 4
740 1217 92 63
1817 125
21
122 -8
752 104
1304 43
1909 137
153 -15
22
813 117
1345 24
1952 145
23
222 -17
837 129
1426 7
2033 145
24
250 -12
903 139
1505 -4
2111 139
25
316 -3
929 145
1543 -9
26
PMS
22 50
60
NMM
0
BMI
341 8
120
955 146
1620 -7
27
2224 113
402 21
1021 143
1657 -0
28
2258 98
419 34
1047 136
1736 11
2334 428 83 44
29
1113 127
1821 24
016 422 68 53
1141 116
1933 36
1222 104
2247 38
1432 94
30
PMS NMM
60 0 004 28
120 60 0
2148 128
BMI
810 1204 1717 86 76 96
039 20
740 1239 91 63
1818 105
105 13
740 99
122 61 0
1307 49
1858 113
129 8
751 106
1333 35
1931 119
Hora del Meridiano:
90 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
1er Cuarto: Luna LLena: 3er Cuarto: Luna Nueva:
25 4 11 18
http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
PLACES TO STAY
Hotel Bahia Hotel....................................................624-143-1888 Best Western Cabo Las Flores Hotel...............624-143-6199 Casa Pablito...................................................624-143-1971 Hotel and Plaza Los Arcos ............................624-143-0702 Mar de Cortez Hotel.......................................624-143-0032 Siesta Suites Hotel.........................................624-143-2773
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
Police State Police....................................................624-143-0296 Highway Patrol...............................................624-143-3977 Federal Police.................................................624-143-1210 Medical Alcoholics Anonymous...................................624-147-5516 Ambulances...................................................624-143-4020
Social Security Hospital..................................624-143-1548 Health Center.................................................624-143-0102 Red Cross......................................................624-143-3300 City Chamber of Commerce..................................624-143-0437 Family Protection...........................................624-143-0586 Gas Leaks......................................................624-143-1292 Marine Harbor Master................................................624-143-4771 Cabo San Lucas Marina.................................624-143-1766 Utilities TELMEX.........................................................624-143-0001 Tourist Assistance..........................................624-143-0016 Drinking Water...............................................624-143-0228 Electric Power Co...........................................624-143-0064 Tourism & Immigration Services Public Services..............................................624-143-2786 Immigration...................................................624-146-5229
Puerto Peñasco, Sonora
Puerto Peñasco
Mexico Living Contact Information Associate Publishers Ray & Annette Ramirez MX 638-150-4512 / US 480-704-4726 rayramirezmlg@gmail.com, annetteramirezmlg@gmail.com
Get the Guide At: La Cocina de Ramon Mariscos el Conchal Jerry’s Restaurant-Bar Pollo Lucas Betos Place Home Plate Seafood Aladinos Reggies 8-12 on Sinaloa St Reggies 8-12 on 13th St Capones Pizza Disenos Furniture Hotel Playa Inn Changos bar Debbies Restaurant Thirsty Parrot Charros JJ’s Cantina Tienda La Cholla Playa Inn - in the Mirador Sonora Market Viva Mexico Taco Stand Cosmos 2000 Pharmacies Licores el Crucero Restaurant Habana Vieja Boo Bar
www.cometorockypoint.com
Puerto Peñasco, commonly known among many of its English-speaking visitors as Rocky Point, is a small city of approximately 42,000 people in the northern state of Sonora, Mexico. Located on the shore of the Gulf of California (also known as the Sea of Cortéz), the town is known for its fishing and tourism industries. It is a popular destination for tourists, particularly those from Arizona, for Puerto Peñasco is nearest beach. This is why it is such a popular Spring Break destination with students from Arizona, New Mexico, and California. Puerto Peñasco is located in the ‘free zone’ where tourists are not required currently to obtain immigration papers in order to visit. Puerto Peñasco marina has new fuel docks and other boat-related developments as part of the country’s Escala Nautica (Nautical Ladder) efforts, which call for a chain of ‘tourist-class’ marinas sprinkled up and down the Baja coast in an effort to promote nautical tourism. Puerto Peñasco has two main beach areas. To
the west of the Old Port area, there is a wide, flat area known as Sandy Beach. This is the home to several large hotel/resorts with more under construction. East of Puerto Peñasco, there is a long coast with several areas, known in parts as El Mirador, Playa del Oro and then Las Conchas, an area of beachfront and near-beach condos, homes and time-shares. Puerto Peñasco is in the same time zone as Arizona observes, and does not observe rules for Daylight Saving Time same as Arizona. GETTING TO PUERTO Peñasco FLYING No commercial flights. Puerto Peñasco airport supports private and charter flights and AeroCalifa. has initiated air travel; there are flights scheduled to depart Puerto Peñasco to Hermosillo Tuesdays and Thursdays at 1 p.m. and will depart Hermosillo en route to Peñasco at 11:45 a.m. Fares will run between MX$1,300–1,500.
DRIVING Visitors to the interior of Sonora are now able to drive directly to such cities as Guaymas, San Carlos, Hermosillo, Bahia de Kino, Caborca, Father Kino Missions, Magdalena, and Santa Ana without the time-consuming process of obtaining a car permit. With the movement of the “Only Sonora” vehicle checkpoint, visitors to the state will no longer have to obtain a car permit in order to travel south of Nogales. Puerto Peñasco From Phoenix west on I-10 to State Route 85, southbound on SR 85 to Gila Bend. Gila Bend turn right at a sign stating “Mexico” and “SR 85 South” before McDonalds. Continue southbound on SR 85 through Ajo, Why and the Organ Pipe National Monument to the border at Lukeville, Arizona. From Tucson, State Route 86 westbound to “Why”, Arizona and go south on SR 85 through Organ Pipe National Monument to the border at Lukeville, AZ.
From Yuma, go eastbound on I-8 from Yuma to the SR 85 to Gila Bend (see Gila Bend above). From Ensenada or San Felipe take the Mexico Route 2 (MR-2) towards San Luis Rio Colorado and continue on MR-2 to Sonoita. From the border, you will continue southbound two miles to a three-way intersection in Sonoyta. Merge LEFT towards Caborca for one until the road splits into a “Y”, stay to the RIGHT and you’re on your way. Continue southbound approximately fifty miles to Puerto Peñasco. THINGS TO DO Puerto Peñasco has a wide variety of activities available for everyone, from the lazy days relaxing in the sun, to the action filled wild ride. Activities including shopping, scuba diving, sport fishing, sunset cruises, off-road adventures, horseback riding, kayaking, parasailing, watercraft rentals and much more. HASSLE-FREE SONORA Visitors to the interior of Sonora are now able to drive directly to such cities as Guaymas, San Carlos, Hermosillo, Bahia de Kino, Caborca, Father Kino Missions, Magdalena and Santa Ana without the time-consuming process of obtaining a car permit. The “Only Sonora” program, unique in Mexico, allows Americans and Canadians to visit Sonora. Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 39
Puerto Peñasco, Sonora
Around Town in Puerto Peñasco with ita R d n a by Rita Pizarro and Tom Thomas om
T
Maybe you heard some rumors; maybe you even saw it online as it was broadcasted live or maybe you didn’t even have a clue . . . Either way we want to confirm that is it true: Tom and I ran off to Las Vegas! As Roger Clyne and the Peace Makers lyrics from the song Maybe we should Fall in Love says: Well it is official now! We’re married. I had a dreamy fairy-tale dress, small pink bouquet and curls cascading down my back. We arrived in a white limo to a cute little chapel and had a very intimate ceremony with five guests; it was a charming little event. We had an earlier unofficial Rocky Point Wedding at the Beach Bash a couple of years ago and, since we seem to like getting married, we are thinking of doing it again in October on the beach with a bigger party! That is, of course, the biggest news from us this summer. September is a good month because we know we have just a few more weeks of heat and humidity and soon the weather will be nice and perfect. October is my favorite month in Puerto Peñasco as the water is still warm in the ocean, sunsets are gorgeous and the temperature is perfect, so look around the Mexico Living new format and book your vacation now before you miss the specials! There are a few changes in the regular events around town, our friends Tony and Vania have changed the Open Mic night in Portofino Bar and Grill from Tuesday nights to Sunday nights, starting at 7 p.m. you will be able to hear live music, join in with any special talents you have,
40 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Puerto Peñasco DIRECTORY ICON Descriptions
- Pool/Spa
- Accept Credit Cards
- Pet Friendly
- Wi-Fi / Internet
- Serves Breakfast
- Kitchen/Restaurant
- Beer/Spirits
# - Map Number
- Reader Poll Winner
PLACES TO EAT American Maxs Cafe .................................................638-383-1011 Breakfast Giuseppe’s Coffee . ....................................638-383-5181 Marios Coffee – On the entrance to the Malecon Charbroiled Chicken Pollo Lucas – Blvd Benito Juarez “under the big Palapa” Cuban Food Restaurant Habana Vieja.......................... 638-383-6909 Leon de Barra #161 and Guillermo Prieto -Col Centro International Aladinos Restaurant....................................638-383-6175 Changos Bar and Cantina............................638-382-8648 In front of Sonora Spa Debbie’s Restaurant – On the Malecon upstairs Old Port Thirsty Parrot .........................................636-388-7068 On the Malecon
Iam Cherry belly dancing
whether it is singing, playing an instrument or even belly Dancing as Iam Cherry frequently does bringing her own music and showing her beauty and great moves. So don’t be shy, they have a food and drink special for the night and you can see the sunset by the water as you dine, listen to good music and contribute to the evening with anything you’d like! We have also been enjoying Max’s Café specials and live music Thursday through Sunday, 8–11 p.m. Our favorite days are Thursdays and Sundays because appetizers are half price, 8–11 p.m. We get some good deals as we sit outdoors listening to great music, some examples are: Shrimp Poppers, Shrimp and Artichoke Brochettes or Sliders for US$3.50 and, Tommy’s favorite, Chicken Wings US$3 a dozen! Another restaurant special worth mentioning is Bryans Sports Bar Friday Night Prime Rib Dinner. It starts at 7 p.m. until it runs out (usually within an hour). For only US$10.50, you get a 16 oz. U.S. Prime Rib with baked potatoes, steamed veggies and Caesar salad. This is a big slice of really good beef. They also have half-price chicken wings on Wednesdays and it is the place where many American locals like to hang out and socialize with good friends. See You at The Beach!
Mexican Betos Place ...............................................638-383-5198 On the Malecon Old Port #40 Charros Restaurant – Blvd Benito Juarez in the Jim Bur Plaza Cocodrilos .................................................638-383-6376 La Cocina de Ramon – Ave FCO Gonzales Boca Negra #261
La Curva . ..................................................638-383-3470 Manny’s Beach Club ..................................638-383-3605 Viva Mexico Taco stand just off the Malecon Fundadore Pizza Augustin’s Pizza and Wings.........................638-383-1699 13th Street in front of Kenos Capones Pizza – Sinaloa Street next to Playa Inn Steak & Seafood Bestos Place...............................................638-114-3917 El Conchal Seafood.....................................638-383-8173 Friendly Dolphin .........................................638-383-2608 Jerrys Restaurant – On the Malecon Old Port Lighthouse . ...............................................638-383-2389 Latitude 31 Rest. & Sports Bar....................638-383-4311 Mariscos el Conchal – Blvd Benito Juarez #79
PLACES TO STAY
RV Park/Parque de RV Bonita RV Park............................................638-383-1400 Rentals/Se Rente Casa Monica Cholla Bay..............................638-382-5147 Bed & Breakfast with First Class Accommodations on the Beach in Cholla Bay” Go 2 Rocky Point........................................602-748-4134
Motels/Moteles Sonoran Spa Resort....................................638-383-1044 Playa Inn.....................................................638-383-5015
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z) ARTIST Marianne Menditto...................................... 638-383-7616 JJ’s Cantina
BARS/CLUBS ............................................ at Cholla Bay
BooBar....................................................... 683-476-2665 CAR RENTAL/alquiler de autos The Point Rent-A -Car..................................638 388-5823 church/iglesia Family of God Christian Fellowship Non-Denominational 044-638- 107-7150 Church Worship Services, Sundays at 9 a.m. Placita Melanie, Suite #211 Blvd. Fremont CONTRACTOR PMD Developments......................................638 105-9182 Convienience Stores Reggies 8-12 – On Sinaloa Street across from Playa Inn Reggies 8-12 – On 13th Street and Luis Encinas
Tienda La Cholla – In Cholla Bay DEVELOPMENTS/FRACCIONAMIENTOS ..............................................638-388-7194 Bella Vista "Parayso" Desembembogue Devept..............638 388-5707 DOCTORS/DOCTORES Dr. Luis Vasquez, M.D. ................................638 383-3014 Fire Department/Departamento de Bomberos Fire Department.................................. 638-383-2828/068 Fish Markets Home Plate Sea Food – On the Malecon next to Betos Place FINANCING/FINANCIAMIENTO Baja Lending Company......... ......................760-494-7053 GSA Corporation.........................................638-388-7632 Monex Financial......................................... .638-388-5764 FURNITURE/Mobiliario Disenos Furniture........................................ 638-383-8633 Designs by Eddie Wharez Consign and Design ...................................638-110-6121 Home Furnishings Alexa Home Furnishings.............................. 638-388-6409 Baja Nueva Decorating Studio..................... 686-211-4676 Custom contemporary furniture & home accessories Serving Rosarito, Ensenada, Puerto Penasco, San Felipe HOME INSPECTIONS Tom Thomas................................................602-748 4134 Immigration Services/Servicios de Inmigración Sun Valley Immigration Services ................ 638-383-8891 Ask for Bianey or Dynora INSURANCE Services/Servicios de SEGUROS Alejandro Portugal Insurance....................... 638-383-2390 Lynda’s Insurance (English speaking)..........686-577-1622 ProAlliance Insurance...................................638-383-2390 Liquor store/Tienda de licor Licores el Crucero.................................... 638-388-0578 Blvd Benito Juarez and the train tracks next to Cosmos 2000 LEATHER Manny’s Leather Factory............................. 638-388-0609
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 41
Puerto Peñasco, Sonora
Rocky Point Fights Back
Rita Pizarro
by Rosie Glover The Rocky Point business community has decided to fight back against unfair media reports in the U.S. that have created an unreasonable fear of traveling to this tranquil beach resort only a 3.5-hour drive from Phoenix and Tucson. With the new coastal highway, the drive time from Southern California is easily under 7 hours. Approximately 25 community leaders gathered to discuss the new Rocky Point Tourism & Visitor Assistance Bureau. “The Tourism Bureau will counteract negative press and increase tourism,” said Manny Sanchez Sr., owner of Manny’s Beach Club and Manny’s Tequila Factory, “but we’ll also function as an assistance office if anyone here has a problem while visiting. We want it known that we are good hosts. Visitors will have a wonderful time and know they’re appreciated.” Tourism bureau director Rosie Glover, who owns ProAlliance Insurance and the Rocky Point News Online added that the bureau will function as a combination Chamber of Commerce and Better Business Bureau. “People want and deserve to know that service providers they hire are upstanding members of the business community. Consumers need only look for our logo to be confident that they are dealing with a member in good standing. And member businesses will be able to rely on us to be their liaison with government offices if needed.” With an office on Benito Juarez Blvd., right above the Tequila Factory in the center of town, the Rocky Point Tourism & Visitor Assistance Bureau opened in August. There will be an advisory committee made up of representatives of the business community, municipal government and law enforcement. The committee will meet monthly to review tourism-related issues. For more information, contact Rosie Glover at rosie@proalliance.com. mx; MX cell: (638) 112-0134; or U.S. (602) 773-1031.
MASSAGE/MASAJE ...........................................638-386-5203
MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS Clinica Hospital........................................... 638-383-2447 City (Municipal) Hospital ............................638-383-2110 Central Clinic .............................................638-383-2110 Hospital IMSS ...........................................638-383-2777 Red Cross . ................................................638-383-2266 Pharmacy/Farmacia Cosmos 2000 Pharmacies....638-383-3896 Blvd Benito Juarez and the train tracks POLICE/POLICÍA City Police Department . .............................638-383-2626 State Police................................................ 638-383-2783 REAL ESTATE/BIENES RAÍCES Baja Lending Co..........................................760-494-7053 Century 21 Cholla Bay ..............................638-382-5147 From the US 602-412-3311 ask for Grechen GretchenEllinger@century21penasco.com . ................638-388-1295 Century 21 Puerto Peñasco USA Office # 480-626-4687
Puerto Peñasco, Mexico Fremont Blvd., Plaza Palmillas century21penasco.com
Mexico Office # (01152) 638-388-1295 Susie Flinn - Remax Puerto Penasco...........638-360-5876 REAL ESTATE SERVICES/servicios DE BIENES RAÍCES Baja Closing & Escrow Services..................686-576-0653
Manny Sanchez, Sr. and Rosie Glover
RECREATION/RECREACIÓN Kayak Rocky Point ...............................638-103-2038 Ranas del Mar Ocean tours – At the Marina.638-107-3739 Rocky Point Parasailing...............................638-107-5922 www.RockyPointParasailing.com Jet Ski rental, fishing charters Choya Bay at JJ’s Cantina OCEAN SPORTS in Marina San Carlos.........638-226-0696 E mail: deportesoceano@prodigy.net.mx We offer - Scub Diving, Snorkeling, Fishing, Kayaking, Horseback Riding, Margarita Cruises, & Private Charters. Seamstress/Modista Naomi Black (habla ingles)..........................638-388-5004 naomi@rhipeo.com TEQUILA Manny’s Tequila Factory..............................638-388-0607 Translation / Transducciones Shandra (Sami) Keesecker-Rivero...............638-383-8217 www.recursosmexico.com info@recursosmexico.com utilities/empresas de servicios públicos Power Company ................................ 638-383-2492/071 Propane ....................................................638-383-2630 Telephone Office ........................................638-383-2288 Water Co. .................................................638-383-2060
42 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
San Carlos
San Carlos, Sonora
Mexico Living Contact Information Associate Agent Lynn Prince 622-111-2624 / lynnprinceformlg@gmail.com www.gotosonora.com/ san-carlos-son-mx.htm.
SAN CARLOS DIRECTORY
BUSINESS DIRECTORY (A-Z)
Fire Department/Departamento de Bomberos Fire Department (call Rescate).................... 622-226-0911 Rescue Squad/EMT's (Rescate)................... 622-226-0911 MEDICAL SERVICES/SERVICIOS MÉDICOS Ambulance......................662-255-9181 or 662-253-0776 Clinica San Carlos....................................... 622-226-0062 CIMA Hospital............................................. 662-259-0900 Surgical Medical Center............................... 662-222-0267
TRAVEL INFORMATION
FLY TUCSON AIRPORT – grab a cab from Tucson Airport to Tufesa Bus Terminal (5 minutes away), then take a bus from the bus terminal to Guaymas. This is the least inexpensive way to get to San Carlos. HERMOSILLO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT – 75 miles north of San Carlos. Flights to Tucson, Phoenix, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, as well as most cities in Mexico. If you are close to the
Around Town in San Carlos
border (Tijuana, Ciudad Juarez), check flights leaving out of those airports in Mexico, they are generally cheaper than flights from U.S. cities into Hermosillo. Once in Hermosillo is easy to hop a bus to Guaymas. GUAYMAS – GENERAL JOSE MARIA YANEX INTERN’L Services at airports in Guaymas is 9am to 7pm. Costly, but close (20 minutes) to San Carlos. Private planes may land here also. Administrator is Juan Jose Jauregui Kawakita. Tel: +52 (01) 622 1-00-44 +52 (01) 622 1-06-34 +52 (01) 622 1-08-04 More information on private aircraft is available from AOPA at: 1 800/USA-AOPA www.aopa.org/members/resources/international.html Transportation from the airport to San Carlos – the taxi union at the airport has set their fares to a standard rate of $30 usd (300 pesos) from the airport to hotels in town. Car rental at the Guaymas airport for about $70 usd (700 pesos). Budget Car Rental and Hertz have local offices. You can catch the San Carlos bus for .70 cents (7 pesos). It shows up at the airport every hour and will take you into Guaymas where you get off at Ley Shopping Center and can catch a bus back to San Carlos for .90 cents (9 pesos)-not recommended if you have more luggage than you can carry on your own! BUS TUFESA bus line runs from Arizona, California and Nevada to Hermosillo. The buses are new and the fares are inexpensive. Phoenix (602) 415-9900; Tucson (520) 670-1534.
DRIVE From Nogales take Mexico Interstate 15 to Hermosillo. It is a well-paved 4-lane highway. What makes this road unique is their dependence on toll funding rather than taxation to pay the development cost. There are 3 toll booths; Nogales, Magdalena De Kino, and Hermosillo north. You can pay in either USD or pesos. You must stop at the Kilometer 21 checkpoint and obtain a tourist Visa. Go to the white building marked “tourist permits.” You will be asked to show your citizenship documents and to fill out a form. Once filled out, the official will stamp it and you are ready to head south to San Carlos. Breakdowns – The highway is patrolled by Los Angeles Verdes (The Green Angels). If you need assistance dial 078. If your cell phone is not working, raise the hood of your vehicle and they will stop to help you. In an emergency, dial 066 (Sonora’s equivalent of 911).
Get the Guide At:
Real Estate Long Realty Seaside....................................622-226-2188 Siesta Realty, S.A. De C.V...........................622-226-2066 RECREATION OCEAN SPORTS in Marina San Carlos.........622-226-0696 E-mail: deportesoceano@prodigy.net.mx We offer - Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Fishing, Kayaking, Horseback Riding, Margarita Cruises, & Private Charters STORAGE San Carlos Storage Services.......................622 226-0866 www.sancarlosstorageservice.com
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Dom 18
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18
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1
100
Captains Club Marinaterra Hotel Izzy’s Soggy Peso Bar Remax
Guaymas, Son.
CICESE
SEPTIEMBRE 2009 0
utilities/empresas de servicios públicos Power Company (CFE) ...............................622-229 4400 Telmex............................622-226-0026 or 622-226-0050 Water Co.(CEA)...........................................622-226-0909
Seaside Reservations Paradiso Resort San Carlos Plaza Hotel Santa Rosa Market Rosa’s Cantina Piccolo’s Baracuda Bob’s
La Palapa Griega Greek Restaurant Joyas de Country Long Realty Seaside Tesoro Decoracion Tequila’s
with rince Lynn P
The Sonora is Safe beach concerts at La Palapa have been a huge success! It is a fabulous evening on the beach, with the ocean and the sun scooting down the back side of Tetakawi for ambiance. We had a blast doing the Twist, Mashed Potato and Frug to the Retro Rockets and their jumpin’ ‘60s music. We said good-bye to a couple of our favorite “Brits” from Silent Movie Night at Captains Club . . . Mick and Traci. We lounged on their elegant 56-foot sailboat, and listened to Steve Smersh entertain us on his guitar with his sea shanty songs . . . Destined to Drown and the theme from Titanic . . . really appropriate music for those setting sail in the morning! Marina Cantina is under new ownership. Jim and Isis Magers are our charming new hosts and are doing a great job with their new innovations. Also, Oasis Restaurant reopened its doors under new ownership. Utopia’s pianista Omar Arriaga and lead singer Danny Moreno have teamed up on Tuesdays at Soggy Peso from 5–7 p.m. to do a fresh, eclectic blend of classical Spanish love songs and other innovative music. You can also catch them together on Sundays at Paradiso Resort from 1–5 p.m. El Cobijo is a home for seniors. There are currently 12 men and 1 woman in their 80’s and 90’s residing there. You must have no family or funds to live there. The government volunteers some funding, but most come from donations. These folks are lonely and in need of help. If you would like to be a part of bringing some happiness into their lives, contact Tammi Miller at ERA: (622) 226-2000 or tammisancarlos@gmail.com. Captain’s Club has been packed on Sundays from 6:30–8 p.m. due to zany Steve Smersh and his rockin’ guitar, quick wit, and unique style. After Eric Holland joined Steve for a couple of rousing duets, Steve, Diane Snydal, and yours truly cappered through an old whimsical 1939 hit, Itty Bitty Fittys. It was great fun! At Ruby’s Wine Bar on Wednesdays from 6–9 p.m. you will find eclectic pianista Omar Arriaga solo. Seaside Reservations’ own Elba Santiago joined Omar in song and wowed us with her rich aria of Spanish love songs. And that’s how the anchor drags for this month!
POLICE/POLICÍA San Carlos Policia.......................................622-226-1400 State Policia................................................622-226-1540 Commisario Sergio Garcia...........................622-226-0004
OTHER INFO: Ferry – Guaymas to Santa Rosalia. Departures: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays & Saturdays 8:00pm. Phone 622-2220204 Mexican Toll Free #01-800-505-5018 U.S. Consulate – in Hermosillo: Monterrey #141 Rosales Street and Galeana Col. Esqueda. Open Mon-Fri 8:00am to 4:30pm Phone: 622-289-3500.
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San Carlos is a beachfront subdivision within the port city of Guaymas, in the northern state of Sonora in Mexico. It is noted for the exceptional clarity and warmth of the ocean water in its shallow bays. It lies on the body of water known as the Gulf of California or Sea of Cortez. Given the size of the city, with nearly 7,000 inhabitants, there are nine hotels of diverse categories with 567 rooms; 280 RV spaces, two marinas with enough space to berth 570 boats, one 72 par 18 hole golf course and endless natural attractions. Due to the great diversity of marine species, San Carlos is the best place in the State of Sonora for the sport of diving. San Carlos is approximately a five-hour drive (241 miles) from the United States on Mexican Interstate Highway 15, 20 minutes from Guaymas, and only an hour from the state capital Hermosillo and an International Airport. The trip from the United States requires that foreigners obtain a tourist visa. Car permits are only required to travel south of Guaymas.
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Oceanografía Física 18
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(27 56 N, 110 54 W) Vie
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10 0 3
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336 9
100
6
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1123 1545 2100 93 73 95
8
357 10
1131 1605 91 66
2141 96
9
418 14
1138 1629 90 58
2220 96
10
439 20
1146 1658 90 50
2259 93
11
459 29
1153 90
1729 42
12
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20 16
50
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518 39
100
1156 91
1803 36
13
036 82
532 50
1151 93
1841 31
14
144 534 74 60
1133 96
1926 28
15
337450 68 67
1122 99
2026 27
16
1125 103
2236 25
17
1131 104
055 15
18
1125 103
19
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12 45
50
NMM
0
BMI
146 5
100
1037 101
223 -2
20
1019 1545 1940 100 79 88
21
258 -4
1026 1529 2048 99 69 94
22
330 -1
1039 1545 98 55
2144 97
23
400 8
1056 1614 97 42
2236 96
24
428 22
1113 1647 96 30
2329 92
25
452 37
1127 94
1723 21
26
PMS
22 50
50
NMM
0
BMI
026 84
100
508 52
1131 93
27
1758 16
131 510 76 64
1102 93
1834 16
28
1028 96
1914 18
29
1030 99
2005 22
1040 99
2139 26
1046 96
057 22
1032 93
30
PMS
50
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135 18
100 50 0
2345 88
1011 90
204 16
1005 15391925 87 65 71
229 15
76 44 0
1006 1526 2024 85 57 75
253 16
1011 1532 83 48
2108 79
Hora del Meridiano:
90 W.G.
Nivel de Referencia:
BMI
1er Cuarto: 25 Luna LLena: 4 3er Cuarto: 11 Luna Nueva: 18 Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 43 http://oceanografia.cicese.mx/predmar MAR V0.7 2006 J.I. González
Reader’s Photo Gallery
Ensenada Bay, By Stockton Hill, Ensenada BC
Loreto in the Morning, Rebecca Sandy, Loreto, BCS
Owner of Pancho Villa Charters in Puerto Penasco swimming with a whale shark. Ray and Annette Ramirez, Puerto Penasco, Sonora.
Making new friends in Penasco. Robin Waters, Puerto Penasco, Sonora
Pacific Sunset, Bruce Harmer, Rosarito Beach, BC
Do you have a photo from Baja or Sonora you would like us to publish in Mexico Living? Send them to photo@mexicoliving.info. 44 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
San Felipe High Tide, Sean Harrington, San Felipe
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ITEMS WANTED
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Too Much “STUFF”? – Consign your excess “stuff” For Sale at Las Palmas Segunda and Trading Post. Las Palmas Segunda, 011 52 1 686-171-6885
ITEMS FOR SALES
REAL ESTATE
6’ X 10’ utility trailer with side rails and retractable loading ramp. Fantastic suspension and built-in tool box with Medco lock system. New tires. Located in San Felipe. Photos available. $1,200. Bill at 686.577.6228 KAYAK SALES & RENTALS, HOBIE Dealer in PUERTO PENASCO. Our Kayaks, PEDAL, PADDLE OR SAIL. We offer many GUIDED TOURS and kayak rentals. See our ADVERTISEMENT in every issue. We have a water fun store & CHARTER BOATS, fishing, diving, sightseeing, snorkeling, sunset & sailing email us: kayakrockypoint@yahoo.com Your HOOKUP! Residential Elevator – sales service and installation. Call Marty 01661-614-1434 or 1-619-252-1350 Dumbwaiters – sales service and installation. Call Marty 01661614-1434 or 1-619-252-1350 Wheelchair Lifts – sales service and installation. Call Marty 01661-614-1434 or 1-619-252-1350 29” enclosed dual-axle trailer with rear ramp door, side access door and built-in tool cabinets. Built to haul cars & power toys but can also move furniture and appliances. Permanent California tags. New tires. Located in San Felipe. Photos available. $6,000 Bill 686.577.6228 1940 classic dressing table with very cute mirror – live the era $400. USD. Dressers a few choose from. Various sizes & conditions. Come take a look. Desks: Petite little computer desks to massive slabs of executive testosterone. Dinettes a few to choose from. Las Palmas Segunda 011 52 1 686 171-6885 Metal Detector – Good Quality, Popular Brand, Nearly New. Hours of fun…better odds than the lottery! $120.USD. Las Palmas Segunda 011 52 1 686 171-6885 Big guy’s Quality Men’s Wear – Pants & shorts 40 to 45 waist, length 30…(no not the shorts) Double X to triple X Shirt, sweaters and Jackets (it’s not always hot; ask your wife to think ahead a little for you). Need ties? We got ties! Las Palmas Segunda. 011 52 1 686 171-6885
Car Dolly – If you have a car dolly you’d like to sell, please email me. packmagazines@gmail.com
Rosarito Beach, Baja California Rosarito Beach Hotel – Owning a Piece of History – Rosarito Beach Condo-Hotel is Baja Gold Coast’s first hotel-serviced luxury resort. Professional hotel management handles all the details. U.S., in-house and low-rate Mexican financing is available. www.RosaritoBeachCondoHotel.com. Ensenada, Baja California Let Us Turn Your Passionate Real Estate Dreams To Reality !! – Condos, High Rises, Homes, Country Clubs, Ranches, Ocean Front/views, Income property, Commercial, Complete legal, Title, Notary, Lending services. www.bajarivprops.com. Bob Larsen, Baja Riviera Properties 760-880-0250 US San Felipe, Baja California Beach House -San Felipe Beach House. 1.5 miles south of town in Campo Las Arenas. 2Br/2Bth. Appliances. Most furniture. Great view! Great neighbors! $160,000.00. See at http://tom. ourbunch.net. Pete’s Camp Home For $85,000 – Located in San Felipe’s oldest camp, the beach and cantina is just a short stroll away. With 3 bedrooms and 2 baths on a 5,000 sq. ft. lot, this is the perfect beach get away… Darryl & Michelle MX (686) 150-1052 US (619) 793-5571 or visit: www.century21sanfelipe.net. La Ventana del Mar Fairway Condo for $250,000 – Featuring fairway and Sea of Cortez views, this condo offers 2 master suites and is furnished. Reduced to $250,000, lowest priced fairway condo avail. Darryl & Michelle MX (686) 150-1052 US (619) 7935571 or visit: www.century21sanfelipe.net Palos Verdes South home, reduced to $149,000 – Sitting on a 10,000 sq. ft. lot with Sea of Cortez views, this cute 2 bed & 2 bath home is fully furnished. Asking $149,000, also offering financing options. Darryl & Michelle MX (686) 150-1052, US (619) 7935571 or visit: www.century21sanfelipe.net.
All ads must be placed online at www.mexicolivingforum.com. All ads must be specific, no generic ads, All ads must contain contact info and price. Mexico Living reserves the right to edit all ads for length, or to refuse any ads.
La Hacienda – Outstanding lot on second row from beach. Unlimited views with plans available. Reduced to $75,000 dollars. Greatest price in development. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760370-0090, MX 686-577-1244, www.deserthawkproperties.com
Great Commercial/Industrial Site Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Great commercial compound in the commercial district. Completely walled and gated, two buildings in good condition with full bathrooms, large covered exterior storage, super heavy duty electrical service. $349,500usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com
Villa de las Palmas – Largest beachfront lot adjacent to common area in cul-de-sac. Upscale development with HOA and full services is conveniently located next to the San Felipe Marina Resort. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-5771244, www.deserthawkproperties.com
Casa Marvista, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Privacy and convenience in a prestige community! Fantastic marina views. This 2 bedroom home features a completely private large patio with swimming pool, in ground jacuzzi, palapa and built-in barbeque. MLS#2701~00001, $699,900usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com
Playas de San Felipe – 3 bedroom, 4 bath home on two lots with a solar heated pool. This home exudes quality throughout with fantastic views and all city services. $299,500 dollars. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-577-1244, www. deserthawkproperties.com
Pacific View Flat Lot, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – One story construction with killer view is possible with this flat lot in the La Gravera section of Pedregal. Plans included for one-story view home. Surrounded by multi million dollar showplace homes. MLS#2701~00021, $599,500usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com
Playas de San Felipe – Two commercial/residential lots located on airport highway next to a new hotel and sports bar. Plenty of room to expand.. Solid investment. Buy now before the boom! $118,500 dollars Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-5771244, www.deserthawkproperties.com
Casa Esperanza, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Feels Like Home! This charming home on the marina side of Pedregal cuddles around you like a furry blanket. Walk to town convenience. Impressive rental history. Pool, outdoor kitchen and much more. MLS#2701~00018. $599,000usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com
La Hacienda – Majestic property overlooking entire development with unobstructed views, pool, two car garage, caretaker’s quarters, workshop, 4 full bathrooms and much more. $279,000 dollars.Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-5771244, www.deserthawkproperties.com
Casa Azabache, Rancho Paraiso, Cabo San Lucas – You will enjoy peace and privacy in this nearly New Three bedroom home in the prestigious gated community of Rancho Paraiso. Perfect for entertaining or just hanging out. MLS#2701~00023, $750,000usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com
Next to the Arches – Exceptional highly visible 8,000 square meter (just under two acres) commercial lot. The centerpiece of this property is a 3,400 s.f. palapa style structure. $375,000 dollars and negotiable. Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-577-1244, www.deserthawkproperties.com
Fabulous Pacific View Lot – One of the last great view lots in Cabo! Incredible sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean, surrounded by multi-million dollar estates. Only lot left on this highly desirable street, act fast! MLS# 2701~00012, $795,000usd. carolbillups@ hotmail.com
El Dorado – Premium lot overlooking the fairway in San Felipe’s impressive premier development with the beach, pool, tennis courts, restaurants, shopping and of course the golf just steps away. Call for pricing! Desert Hawk Properties, US 760-370-0090, MX 686-577-1244, www.deserthawkproperties.com
Puerto Penasco, Sonora
Loreto, Baja California Sur Loreto Property for sale in the central district. Just up from the beach/Harbor – Property just up from the Beach/Harbor and 2 blocks from the Mission District. Paved street with sidewalks. Large trees and fruit bearing trees on property. May carry some paper? Jack US Phone 805-748-4568 by owner Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur
Camping/Beach Equipment – Beach Chairs, Coolers, Ice Chests, Sleeping Bags, Camp Stoves, Camp Lanterns, Sandals, Water Shoes, Flippers & Goggles, umbrellas, flashlights, sand. Las Palmas Segunda. 011 52 1 686 171-6885
La Ventana del Mar lots available starting at $43,000 – Walk to the Beach & Tennis Club at El Dorado Ranch, Sea of Cortez views! This is a must sell situation, seller lowered the price to $43,000. Call Darryl & Michelle: Mx cell (686) 150-1052 or US (619) 7935571 or visit: www.century21sanfelipe.net.
Gali Plaza Dive Shop Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Established, thriving business for sale! 2008 was the best year in their history. But the owners want to retire. Completely turn-key. May purchase all or 60% interest. Some financing available. MLS# 2701~00002, $1.425,000 usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com
Stainless Steel Sink – Approx 30”x18” hot & cold valves with extendable hosey thingy for washing dishes, cleaning fish or washing the dog …its your sink do what you want with it. $30. USD or trade for a case of Victoria cerveza caguama. Las Palmas Segunda & Trading Post. 011 52 1 686 171-6885
El Dorado Ranch Electric Lots starting at $15,000 – Located in Palos Verdes South, 15,000 sq. ft. corner lot with electricity readily available. The seller has priced this great lot at just $15,000! Call Darryl & Michelle: MX: (686) 150-1052 or US (619) 793-5571 or visit www.century21sanfelipe.net.
Hacienda Escondida FINANCING AVAILABLE – Old Town Cabo San Lucas on a quiet side street. This profitably operating B&B could also be used as an elegant supper club. Features 8 bedrooms, 13 bathroom, Bar/lounge area, much more. $1,995,000usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com
Small Appliances – Toasters, Toaster Oven, Coffee Makers, Micro Wave, Personal Espresso Makers, bread Machines, lean grills, Waffle Makers, Apple Peelers? Got 2!Who would have believed it? Las Palmas Segunda. 011 52 1 686 171-6885
$175,000 Single Story Home with Ocean View – Private and secure, community residents are privy to spacious homes with generous yards, patios, and bbq areas designed to maximize the Mediterranean-type climate. Roof-top terraces with 360-degree views. Toll Free 1(866) 350 0034
Casa Memo, Fracc. Quintas California Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – This nice house is in a gated private community with 3 bedrooms and 2.5 bathrooms. Affordable price for a family or retirement home, the house also has a very nice fenced patio. MLS# 2701~00024 $128,000usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com
Practically on the Beach – Town Home Deal $79K walk to town and beach. Call Amor Property, Voted Best Broker 2007 and 2008, US 760-494-3639 MX 686-577-0611, www.AmorProperty.com
Marina View Lot in Pedregal Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Walk to town from your custom marina view home on this building lot in Pedregal. One of the best buys in Pedregal, perfect for a spec home. MLS# 2701~00025, $189,000usd. carolbillups@ hotmail.com
Garage/Tienta/Storage – 10X20’ Heavy Duty Garage. 6 Months Old $2,800 Pesos. Includes set up on your site! Call Doug 686.148.0774 DouglasMarkRotolo@gmail.com Mirrors & Art work – Nice Selection of framed mirrors. Wood framed, metal framed, non framed. Artwork for walls Mexican in Nature. Las Palmas Segunda & Trading Post Across from the Bus terminal. 011 52 1 686 171-6885 Neutering Dogs with Shoes – ZAPP Spay/Neuter Project in San Felipe raises money for its surgery program by selling barely worn to brand new shoes in its eBay shoe store. Donate shoes by sending them to our storage unit in Calexico: ZAPP attn: SHOES FOR SPAYS, 95 East Highway 98, Calexico CA 92232
Best Deals in Town at Amor Property! – 2 New homes reduced $150K, call for details. Owner will carry! Amor Property, Voted Best Broker 2007 and 2008, US 760-494-3639 MX 686-5770611, www.AmorProperty.com Golf Course Lots in La Ventana from $69K – Golf Course lots in La Ventana $69K to $99K larger lots on the 6th Tee. Call Amor Property, Voted Best Broker 2007 and 2008, US 760-494-3639 MX 686-577-0611, www.AmorProperty.com
Restaurant stainless steel 8 foot Restaurant hood new – greenheck restauarnt hood stiill on the crate ,8 ft long 48 depht ,lights ,filters brand new $1230.oo dlls. 7604559251 mariosequip@yahoo.com
Playas de San Felipe – ONLY $16K! – Playa de San Felipe City and sea view lot $16k all city services. Call Amor Property, Voted Best Broker 2007 and 2008, US 760-494-3639 MX 686-577-0611, www.AmorProperty.com
Wolf staainless steel 6 burner range for sale new wolf – I have a 6 burner range with oven stainless steel, for sale brand is wolf brand new still has the white plastic wraper on it !1550.00dlls Contact USA 7604559251, mariosequip@yahoo.com
Your New Homesite! – El Dorado Lots from 15k to 25K, Call Amor Property, Voted Best Broker 2007 and 2008, US 760-494-3639 MX 686-577-0611, www.AmorProperty.com
Casa Cascadas Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Overlooking the Pacific on highly desirable Camino de los Gatos. Four master suites, pool, jacuzzi, gourmet kitchen, outdoor kitchen, and even a roof-top terrace! This one has it all! MLS#2701~00010 $2, 310,000usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com Marina View Lot With House Plans Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Small lot with a Big View! Seller has approvable plans for three bedroom home with pool and view, included in sale. MLS# 2701~00022, $249,500usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com Pedregal Lands End View Lot. Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Million Dollar Beach Views! This may be very well be the last lot available for sale in the Pedregal providing sweeping views of the Finistera Beach, Hotels and the Famous Lands End. MLS# 2701~00007 , $595,000usd. carolbillups@hotmail.com
Lot For Sale $99,000 – Owner Trades For Condo In Rocky Point, Grant Mackenzie Sr,Work: 638-383-1425, Cell: 480-459-0855 2 lot package in Puerto Peñasco/Rocky Point – (Playa La Jolla) only 98,000 usd Grant Mackenzie Sr,Work: 638-383-1425, Cell: 480-459-0855 Lots and Land for Sale in Playa Encanto – Puerto Peñasco/Rocky Point, $89,900 usd Grant Mackenzie Sr,Work: 638-383-1425, Cell: 480-459-0855 1/8 share home in Las Conchas – Puerto Peñasco, Sonora $79,500 usd. Grant Mackenzie Sr,Work: 638-383-1425, Cell: 480459-0855 495,000 usd for a Non Rental – Beachfront Condo, Rocky Point, Son. Grant Mackenzie Sr,Work: 638-383-1425, Cell: 480-4590855 Tessoro is the newest & exclusive Residential Real Estate in Puerto Peñasco – Gated Las Conchas neighborhood with amenities and luxuries previously unknown to Puerto Peñasco. Private elevator access to each unit and spa tubs on each unit’s ocean-view terrace, (602) 476.2396 sales@tessoro.com.mx Puerto Peñasco Behind Coca Cola’s Office $75,000 USD Residential – Great opportunity for developers. LOT 3 2,500 m2, Let’s make a deal!!! US 30 Dollars per SQ. Mt. It has it all: water, electricity and traffic. Ready to sign before notary. georginaross@ aol.com Puerto Peñasco Privada Campo y Julian Butano $80,000 – House in construction. 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. Master bedroom with a terrace. There is 2 extra departments in front of the property for rent or for a small business. TERMS: US$40,000.00 DOWN and the balance in 6 months. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco KM 19 on the coastal Hwy $77,000 USD Residential – Beach house! US$77K, US$80K, From second to fifth row. (at walking distance from the beach), 2 bedrooms, 1 bath, living/dinning room. Quiet area. All utilities available. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Alvaro Obregon (New Construction) $68,900 – Reduced, reduced, reduced! Great opportunity! Before: US$75.000.00 After: US$68,900.00. Motivated seller. Owner financing: 15,000.00 DOWN. US$500/month. Electric, water, sewer. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Camino a la Choya $66,000 USD Commercial – Commercially zoned, all utilities available. North West toward La Choya. Tourist area. frontage lot. georginaross@aol.com
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 45
Puerto Peñasco Sobarzo Colonia Oriente (New Construction) $55,000- US $55,000.00 Gorgeous 2 story, Modern Style design. 2 bedrooms, 1 1/2 bath. Waterfall on the back wall. The house will be finished soon. Includes finishes. Air conditioning in both stories with separate thermostat. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Avenida Portes Gil y Crescencio Rejon $55,000 – Commercial. 779.56 sq. mts. Fantastic for a rental warehouse. It has water, electricity! Buyer’s market! Make an offer!! georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Avenida 37 $50,000 – Summer Sale. Great opportunity!! House with 2 rooms, 1 bathroom, a beautiful jacuzzi. All furnished. A/C central. Custom tile work in the kitchen and the bathroom. 2 blocks near the new hospital. Fantastic purchased. georginaross@aol.com Bienes Raices de Sonora – If you´re looking for properties anyhwhere in Sonora, contact us at 623-237-3558 (phoenix) or try our website: www.bienesraicesdesonora.com Puerto Peñasco Samuel Ocana and Puerto Escondido (corner lot) $46,538 – Corner: Samuel Ocaña and Puerto Escondido on your way to la Choya. Water, electricity available. Samuel Ocaña is a paved road. Urban, high density, desireable area. Make an offer! georginaross@aol.com Sandy Beach Condo – Own a condo with very little down and monthly payments as low as $500, yes you too can own and this is a non-qualifying loan. The property has a Bank Trust in place. Contact: bigfootbill@att.com for more information and pictures Puerto Peñasco (New Construction) $37,692 – Reduced! Reduced! Beautiful brand new house. Great finishes! New price US$37,692.30 ($490,000.00 Pesos) Hurry before const. materials go up...2 story house. High ceilings, big patio for BBQ, (great for a dental office/accountant, etc.) georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Dr. Roberto Gracida Ruiz $37,238 – CHURCH PROJECT to help Penasco Great Investment! Starting at US$37,238.46. Wall insulation. (9’ ft) 2.7 m height ceilings. Master bedroom: 13.05m2, 2nd bedroom 10.41m2. Double pane windows and much more…georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco San Felipe Av. (New Construction) $36,925 – Great Investment! New houses: US$36,925.00 Brand new! Local financing available. 9 blocks North of Samuel Ocana. 2 bedrooms, 1 bath, all tiled floors. Nice patio in the back and you can build second story. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco (New Construction)$35,000 USD Residential – Down payment US$20K, Balance US$500/Month. The price has just been reduced from $43,000.00 to $35,000.00 Let’s close this week! 3 blocks from Samuel Ocaña toward Revolucion. Near the Raildlroad tracks. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Av 37 (lot) $33,000 – US$33,000.00 Great price and ready to go. 400 sq. meter of pure potential! Great lot surrounded with lots of houses, family area and not too many stores. Build a pharmacy, convenience store. 2 blocks from the new hospital. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco $32,999 – Brand new house US$32,999.00 MN$424,000.00 Pesos, 2 bedrooms, 1bath. All utilities available. Large living room/dining room/kitchen. Small back patio. Space for 2 cars in front. 4 blocks off Josefa Blvd., one block from Sobarzo Street. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Sonoyta Hwy $28,000 – Ready to enjoy. Do you like nature? Plants? It has orange trees! Put a pre-fab or develop it. If you like animals there is plenty of room! It has water. The electricity it is one block from the Sonoyta road. Km 74-75 20 minutes from Puerto Peñasco. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Near to Superval Market $20,000 – 1/2 block from Benito Juarez. North of town. All utilities availalble. 2 blocks before Lopez Portillo light. Commercial lot. Near Super Val market after Domino’s Pizza, before the Arizona Tire Shop and Tecate. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Salvador Cabrales Lot # 3 $18,000 – 200 Mt2 of land in an urban area. It has electricity. Next property is owned by the same person in case you would like to buy it in the future also. Ready for an RV or mobil home... you name it. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Lot 2, Block 32, Zone 1 $9,999 – Fantastic price! US$9,999.00 NEAR THE NEW AIRPORT. Great investment! Urban land. Urban area, lot 2, block 32, zone 1. 2,527.89 m2. 45 Km from Peñasco. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Serafin Conde $8,800 – Great Iinvestment! Puerto Peñasco-Sonoyta hwy. 525m2 (17.50m x 30.00m) lot, North: 17.50m solar #8, South: 17.50m Serafin conde, East: 30.00m solar #2, West: 30.00m solar #4, georginaross@aol.com
46 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez
Puerto Peñasco Sinaloa (New Construction) $3,500 Commercial – For Rent BAR AND RESTAURANT: US$3,500/ Month. Negotiable. ALCOHOL LICENSE. All furnished. For rent next to Al Capone’s Pizza. The restaurant sits 100 people. Parking lot for 40 cars. georginaross@aol.com Puerto Peñasco Between km 56 & 57 Hwy Penasco-Sonoyta $3,000 – Farm and Ranch LOTS FOR SALE or 43 Hectares. For sale total or partial. Right on the Hwy. Penasco-Sonoyta. Minimum purchase a 500 M2/lot. US $6.00/mt = US$3,000.00 Price NEGOTIABLE! georginaross@ aol.com Puerto Peñasco Playa Bonita $175 USD Residential – Fantastic Lot for houses or warehouses....1743.29 Mt2 US$175.00/Mt2= US$305,075.75 All Utilites available. Playa Bonita Rv park is across the street. georginaross@aol.com San Carlos, Sonora Great house on the Marina! $ 450,000.00 usd – 3 bedroom 3 bath split level home located in an exclusive gated marina community.San Carlos Realty #1, San Carlos, Sonora (011 52) 622-226-2000 (011 52) 622-125-0721 line from US: 520-4950020 lcbienesraices@hotmail.com www.eramexico.com Beautiful Mexican Style Home With Additional Outdoor Kitchen In Tecalai For $ 184,999.00 Usd – San Carlos Realty #1, San Carlos, Sonora (011 52) 622-226-2000 (011 52) 622-125-0721 line from US: 520-495-0020 lcbienesraices@hotmail.com www. eramexico.com The Finest Home In Royal Golf Club For $ 229,000.00 Usd – Just Reduced To $ 229,000.00 Usd, Owner Will Finance! San Carlos Realty #1, San Carlos, Sonora (011 52) 622-2262000 (011 52) 622-125-0721 line from US: 520-495-0020 lcbienesraices@hotmail.com www.eramexico.com Beautiful Two Story Home In The Bahia, Must See Home For $ 219,999.00 usd – 300 meters from the Ocean. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and 2 terraces. Financing solutions with emexicomortgage.com ask for Allen Covey, Allen.covey@ emexicomortgage.com or 622-111-0294 MEX; 520-777-0034 US. Beautiful Two Story Home In A Great Location In Lomas De Cortes For $109,000.00 usd – 2 Bd, 1.5 Bth, 1 Den, Living & Dining Room, Laudry Room, Upgrated Kitchen, San Carlos Realty #1, San Carlos, Sonora (011 52) 622-226-2000 (011 52) 622125-0721 lcbienesraices@hotmail.com Bienes Raices de Sonora – If you´re looking for properties anyhwhere in Sonora, contact us at 623-237-3558 (phoenix) or try our website: www.bienesraicesdesonora.com RENTAL PROPERTY Rosarito Beach, Baja California 3 bedroom, 4 bathroom, Ocean View, new Mansion – $975 monthly – 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom, 2 car garage, ocean view, new Mansion. More bajarentals info on this home and others at www.bajaopenhouse.com. 661.613.2601, or 858.366.4399 San Carlos, Sonora Vacation Rentals in San Carlos – If you are seeking a vacation rental in San Carlos, Sonora http://www.sancarlosproperty.com, toll free from the USA or Canada at 1-800-587-2830 / toll free in Mexico at 01-800-832-9590. We have a variety of condos and vacation homes available. Every property is well appointed. Puerto Penasco, Sonora Rental at Casa Blanca Golf Villas. Cheapest 3 bedroom rental on Sandy Beach- 5% discount from Seaside Rentals published prices. Master bedroom and living room. 18 hole professional putting green. Sleeps 8. 10% discount over Seaside Rental published prices. janmill3@gmail.com Be Right on Sandy Beach in Beautiful Puerto Peñasco – Beautiful Newly Decorated 1 Bd Rm Condo. Is available for monthly rental....Princesa Condo. It is fully furnished, all major applicances to make you feel at home. Wireless Internet and 2 TV’s with Direct TV. bigfootbill@att.net Cholla Bay Casita – For Rent 1 bed room casita in Cholla Bay. All new Construction, fully furnished, ac, sat t.v., close to beach, store, J.J.’s and Sally’s (xchotl’s). Rent by the night, weekend, week and month. large area to park toys safe and secure. Contact Bobbi at 520-203-4050. or vistit gocholla.com for details. Rentals for professionals in Peñasco – The apartments of “Casa de Panasco” are fully furnished. Free wireless internet, washer & dryer and satellite TV. We prefer 3 month minimums and offer SPECIAL recession proff rates. Just e-mail bigfootbill@att.net for pictures and questions.
Let Us PERSONALLY help you with your vacation details. Give us your preferences & expectations & we will follow through with condo or beach house rentals, dining, activities, etc. in an effort to exceed your expectations, at no cost to you. contact: rockypointrentaldeals@gmail.com Anywhere – Baja Sonora House Sitter Available – Do you need a house sitter? We are looking for house sitting opportunities throughout the year in various place throughout Baja and Sonora. We are available for 1 to 3 months at a time. We have great references. John & Rachel Pack, info@mexicoliving.info Loreto, Baja California Sur Monthly rentals in Central Loreto by Harbor. Room for Boat. – Small furnished apartment for rent. Full Kitchen, King size bed, AC, fans, microwave, pool and BBQ area. Room for boat or car behind secure gates. $ 1200-1400 USD/month depending on length of lease. US 805-748-4568 or 805-459-3100. ANNOUNCEMENTS Rosarito Theatre Guild Production of “The Cemetery Club” – Written by Ivan Menchell & Directed by John Bell. Date: Sept 18, 19, 20 & 25, 26,27. Place: Old Vic Theatre (3 blocks west of Waldos). Contact: Pat Farrell 664-631-2359 pfarrell1958@ gmail.com VEHICLES & MOTORCYCLES Suzuki VX800 Motorcycle For Sale or Trade in San Felipe – V-Twin shaft drive motorcycle in excellent condition. Always garaged. Less than 9600 original miles $1,950 (trailer also available) Call Bill at 686.577.6228 29” enclosed dual-axle trailer with rear ramp door – side access door and built-in tool cabinets. Built to haul cars & power toys but can also move furniture and appliances. Permanent California tags. New tires. Located in San Felipe. Photos available. $6,000 Bill 686.577.6228 Honda 500R – Should be 500H for Hospital. 2 stroke motor has a light switch powerband. If you can handle this baby it’s a kick in the …, if not, this is not for beginners. No electric start. No mercy. Needs a little work for flawless performance. $800 USD. 011 52 1 686 171-6885 Dune Buggy In San Felipe For Sale – 1600 dual port engine. Manx style body. Runs good and priced right for quick sale at $2,250.00 Dollars. Cell Phone Mexico: (686) 117.2323 or U.S. Cell (760) 554.3898 Toyota Desert Thrasher – 1989 Toyota 4Runner, 4 banger. Tired of risking your Hummer rolling in and around San Felipe? This little truck will let you play in the desert with complete abandon. Less than fixing a scratch in the bigboy. Needs TLC $2700.USD. 011 52 1 686 171-6885 1997 Ford Expedition 4X4 – 6.5” LIFT w/35” Wheels, Runs, needs work. Would like to trade for Jeep or smaller SUV, $2,800, Call Doug 686.148.0774, DouglasMarkRotolo@gmail.com, photos at http://itiswhatitis-now.blogspot.com/ PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Want to host a concert? – Mark Mulligan, singer songwriter who sings up and down the Sea of Cortez, is available for large events or smaller “house concerts” in Sonora or Baja California. All original, Jimmy Buffett style songs about beaches, boats, and south of the border life! www.markmulligan.net for info. Interior Design Services – FREE interior design service at Casa Bonita. With 18 years experience in Puerto Peñasco we can help you furnish your casa or just help you update what you already have. Our selection and prices can’t be beat. Penasco 383.6363 or from the U.S. 602.334.4393. Barbara Iverson Skin Care and Cosmetics by Mary Kay – Contact Kathy – Complementary Facials and Skin Care Classes, my home or yours. Discounts & Hostess Gifts available. Contact Kathy @ 686-210-4458 or kpreppernau@marykay.com or kjprepp@msn. com. Website: www.marykay.com/kpreppernau Ollin Systems International – Media, Marketing, Advertising & Business Development, Products & Consulting; Confronting today’s business challenges with an innovative and new cuttingedge synergy of resources. Bilingual/Bicultural; Free initial evaluation. Ken or Frank, ollinsystems@gmail.com Gary’s Massage Service – San Carlos, Sonora, Mexico – Gary Feinberg. LMT. Professional Massage Services. Cel 044-622105-4988. House 226-0713. We have many requests from our clients for our World Famous Massage Services; E-mail spasancarlos@gmail.com A Happy Tail shop – Buy the highest quailty pet supplies at the lowest prices, We are a pet supply shop that give back, we
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of charcoal from the edge of the fire and drawn a crude window on the wall of his cell. He had even drawn the curtains to look like they were being lifted by a gentle breeze. At night when he lay on his bunk, his mind’s eye projecting the scene of his home on his sketched window, the flickering firelight indeed made the charcoaled curtains appear to flutter. One of Pablo’s boyhood friends had come to Mulegé. He had talked with him this very afternoon. Juan had brought him news of his family, news that had lifted and eased the tremendous weight of worry that always seemed jammed somewhere between his shoulders, bound there by invisible chains, relentless in their savage, constricting grip around his back and across his chest. Mama and Papa were well and lovingly cared for by his brothers and sisters. It was hard for him to perceive all of his brothers and sisters but the youngest being married, even more astonishing to hear that he was an uncle, several times. They were all still poor, very poor. The plan, his plan, that always lay dormant somewhere at the base of his being, nourishing his dogged determination, leapt forward in his thoughts with startling clarity. His plan had been conceived the day he had talked with the padre, and had realized he no longer had to labor under his guilt. On that day, he had realized that Sanguinez Prison was not a house of punishment for him, but a new beginning. He had jobs, working wherever the townspeople needed him. And, because of his bold way of wading into and furiously diminishing whatever work was set before him, it was Pablo Murillo the townspeople sought out to work in the date and banana groves that flourished in Mulegé. The pesos buried in the floor of his cell attested to the many years of hard work behind him. He would soon be free. In an effort to will his days even more swiftly to that end, he leaned even more ferociously into the bodywrenching toil that brought nights of deep, satisfied sleep. It wouldn’t be long before his plan would be reality. When he was free, he would return home. Then, he would bring Mama and Papa to Mulegé. He would buy a farm. Maybe his brothers and sisters would come too. Mulegé had plenty of work. When Colonel Sanguinez was governor of Baja California, he built this unique prison on a hill overlooking Mulegé in 1906, naming it after himself. Mulegé, being an oasis, is a virtual garden. Because its productivity far outstripped the ability of its residents to keep up with it, it didn’t take long for the people to tap the wealth of manpower housed in the cells behind the brick and plaster, guard-towered stockade.
It was out of Mulegé’s need that a unique honor system evolved for the inmates of Sanguinez. There were a few incorrigibles who were not included in this program, but during the 59 years of its operation, most of the prisoners merely slept at the prison in open cells, eating meals prepared by the wife of one of them. Their days were spent working, wherever needed, in Mulegé. They were even paid for their labor. The townspeople had no fear at all of the prisoners. On a typical workday, the only way to tell the prisoners from the free was that at 6 p.m. a guard would climb up to one of the stockade’s corner watchtowers and blow a conch shell, and various men could be seen breaking away and filing up the hill toward the prison. These men were so trusted and accepted by the local people that at the completion of their terms, many of them stayed in Mulegé, marrying and raising families. Even today the identities of these ex-prisoners and their descendants are intensely yet politely protected from outsiders, “for the sake of their families.” In 1965, its residents reduced to only three, Sanguinez Prison was closed. Pigeons thrive there now, nesting in the 53 cells. Jose Luis, an expoliceman, lives there too, in what was once the kitchen. He has made Sanguinez his home “because he likes it” (no rent). He also serves as a “guard” for the occasional drunk, gringo as well as Mexican, that may be in need of a place to sleep it off. The 53 back-to-back cells form a square around an open courtyard within the stockade. In the center of this courtyard is a container that was used for water. A roaring fire was also lit here every night to fight off the chill. On the left wall, looking out into the courtyard, is someone’s sketch of Our Lady of Guadalupe. Exploration of the cells reveals a lot of graffiti, which has accumulated over the last 15 years, but closer inspection reveals old faded drawings, names of family members and dates—segments and traces, glimpses into a multi-faceted diary ripped from the pages of many lives. All of the prisoners at Sanguinez Prison were men. A very few of them were hardened criminals, and another small minority of them were mentally ill. There seems to have been only one known escape attempt. A man scaled and leaped from the wall of the stockade, and was shot and killed by one of the guards. Why escape? The rehabilitation program unwittingly proposed by the people of Mulegé was a better way of life than any of the prisoners had known. It offered hope, and a future, as the priest had promised, free of guilt.
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Puerto Peñasco $6,000 – The price for this lot is ready for a quick sale!, Urban area 4 blocks from the Tecnologico, 3 blocks from Coronado project. All services available. georginaross@aol.com
Republished with permission from Desert Magazine, May 1981.
donate 10% of every purchase to help needy animals. Http:// www.ahappytailshop.com Web site designer available – see my work at http://www. whitedogdesigns.biz, no job to small, very reasonable priced. Darla Johnson Looking for accounting services – Need help with taxes, need to establish a corporation, employees and payroll or you’re constructions IMSS in the San Felipe BC. area? We’ve been helping businesses in San Felipe for years. E&A Accounting tel. 686-5770836, cell. 686- 1456248 or 1421248 Real Estate Agent – If you´re looking for properties in Sonora and want the service of a professional real estate agent contact Mrs. Alicia Paredes at www.bienesraicesdesonora.com Water Activities – Seafari Tours invites you to join us on an amazing adventure to Angel Island. We will be leaving on the Rocio Del Mar on Oct 3rd and returning to Rocky Point on Oct 10th. All inclusive scuba diving liveaboard. Scuba instruction also available on this trip. For info call Lea @ 928-380-8619. RECREATION View my videos – Jimenez, Zacatecas, Guadalajara, Puerto Vallarte and more – My website is devoted to living, working and traveling in Mexico. You will find my blog inside my website. I’m posting videos of our recent trip. Thanks for visiting! http://www. mexicolivingandvacations.com
Get more info: www.mexicolivingguide.com - 47
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48 - The Monthly Guide to Pacific Baja & the Sea of Cortez