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Expert advice TILLY WALNES · DEBBIE SHORE · MAY MARTIN · LISA COMFORT

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Hello... January If there’s one thing true to us all, it’s that time flies.

Days, weeks and months pass by, then before we know it, the year is over. To me, the new year is a positive and exciting time... I enjoy making resolutions simply because I like to challenge myself! So, what do you want to do more of in 2018?

If you want to create a bigger handmade wardrobe, this month’s FREE patterns should be right up your street.

Your Simplicity gift includes six top styles that are perfect for everyday wear – whilst our vest top (p48), linen dress (p41), wool tunic (p18), denim skirt (p26) and quilted jumper (p22) are all sure to become staple pieces. Don’t forget to take advantage of your fabric discounts – enjoy 20% off Dragonfly Fabrics plus 25% off at Girl Charlee.

Fancy learning a new skill? Our 6-page guide (p53) will introduce you to quilting and might even help you discover a new passion. We’ve arranged 20% off ALL Vlieseline products at Lady Sew and Sew for you.

Elsewhere, we have a seahorse family (p83), nautical outfit (p24), llama bunting (p69) and embroidered bibs for youngsters (p60), or accessories such as our hat and scarf (p38) or cosmetic bag and pouches (p64). Home in need of an update? Stitch tea towels (p68), trivets and a wall pocket (p69), plus handy nesting trays (p75).

Is one of your goals this year to believe in yourself a little bit more?

I’ll happily admit it’s one of mine! Well, why not take the chance to enter our Dressmaker of the Year competition on p28? You’ll also receive TWO FREE SIMPLICITY PATTERNS, just for entering.

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Happy sewing!

Jenny

20% off !

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Jenny Ward, Sew editor

25%

20%

off !

28 sew

Get 20% off ALL Vlieseline products at Lady Sew and Sew, and enjoy waddings and interfacings galore!

Find your discount code on page 7. ladysewandsew.co.uk

free template download

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Enter a photo of one of your handmade garments today at makeittoday.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear

off !

Ooh, 25% off at Girl Charlee! Turn to page 7 and grab yourself some knit fabrics today at girlcharlee.co.uk

HAVE YOU GOT YOUR FREE DOWNLOADS? sewmag.co.uk/templates

Get in touch! Share your creations, tips and views

@

editorial@ sewmag.co.uk



0330 333 0042

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SIX STYLES FOR YOU TO SEW!

Look out for our FREE templates and patterns, then download and print them at

Subscriptions

Claim 20% off at Dragonfly Fabrics – find your code on page 6. dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

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Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY

sew January 2018

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IN THIS ISSUE...

IN EVERY ISSUE TEA BREAK 03 WELCOME Come say hello to the team!

06 WHO, WHAT, WEAR Keep up-to-date with the sewing world 15 YOU SEW SOCIAL We love what you’ve been making 50 LOVE YOUR MACHINE Our top picks, this month from GUR Sewing 74 THE BOOKSHELF Top sewing titles to curl up indoors with

KIDS

28 YOU! DRESSMAKER OF THE YEAR Our star judges reveal their tips for success

60 SUSIE JOHNS’ BABY BIBS Stitch an adorable set for a newborn

34 FIVE CRAFTY RESOLUTIONS Set yourself a stitchy challenge for the new year

68 MASCOT LLAMA BUNTING String this up in a child’s bedroom

76 SHOULDER BAG Quilt yourself a handy shopper

HOME 59 STUART HILLARD Get nostalgic for 70s and 80s style

83 SEAHORSE TOYS Make a fun aquatic family in an afternoon

46 STITCH ONCE ,WEAR FOREVER Build your capsule wardrobe 53 NEW! YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO QUILTING All you need to know about this technique

87 TOP OF THE CLASS Don’t miss this fabulous selection of workshops

66 CONFESSIONS OF A SEWING ADDICT Designer Corinne Bradd gets to grips with machine feet

89 PREVIEW NEXT MONTH Our February issue’s out on 11th January

90 POLO NECK Discover how this garment became a wardrobe staple

62 THE FABRIC EDIT Choose pretty florals in time for spring

GIFTS

68 TEA TOWELS Make these!

63 PHOTO GUIDE PATCHWORK PINCUSHION Turn fabric scraps into a habby essential

69 STORAGE POCKETS Make this useful holder for your home 69 POT HOLDERS Sew these vibrant kitchen accessories

64 COSMETIC BAGS Store your beauty essentials in style

72 A LUXE TOUCH Give your living space a regal update

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75 NESTING TRAYS Organise your pins, buttons and more

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DRESSMAKING

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WIN! on page 78

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pages of fashion, garments & more!

FREE THIS MONTH...

Stitch a collection of fabulous knit tops in sizes 4-26

FREEBIES & OFFERS 06 20% DISCOUNT DRAGONFLY FABRICS Claim 20% off your purchases 07 20% OFF VLIESELINE Get 20% off Vlieseline products at Lady Sew and Sew

09 FREE GIFT TERRIFIC TOPS Stitch six different styles with your FREE pattern

07 25% OFF GIRL CHARLEE Enjoy 25% off ALL fabrics

18 DIY PATTERN KELLY TUNIC Sew a smart statement jumper from boiled wool

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15 WIN SEND IN AND WIN Send us snaps of your makes for the chance to win £50 worth of fabric from Minerva Crafts!

37 FREE BEGINNER’S GUID TO MAKING SKIRTS Claim your FREE copy today!

20 NEW! SEWING WITH TILLY In her first Sew column, Tilly Walnes provides the low-down on sewing knit fabrics 22 DELIA PULLOVER Create a cosy cover-up from pre-quilted jersey 24 ARIEL TOP Make a nautical-inspired garment for your little mermaid

70 GIFT SUBSCRIBE TODAY Receive a dressmaking kit worth £33.99!

25 DREAMY DENIMS Presenting our pick of this popular fabric

78 WIN GIVEAWAYS We have more than £1,430 of stitchy prizes to win!

26 PHOTO GUIDE DEBRA SKIRT Sew an asymmetric design in blue denim 30 STITCH THE LOOK Our favourites from Linton Tweeds

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32 INDIE PATTERN NEWS Our round-up of the latest independent brand releases

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CLAIM YOUR FREE BOOK Stitch 24 skirts with Wendy Ward

35 IN THE BAG All the supplies you need to create a designer masterpiece 38 ISOBEL CAP & SCARF Stitch a coordinating set from smart tweed 41 MASTERCLASS EDNA DRESS Practise adding pockets, neck facings and sleeves 44 SEWING SOS Expert advice on stitching children’s wear

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48 TONI VEST Sew yourself a classic go-to piece 84 YOUR SEWING GUIDE Sew like a pro!

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FREE NEXT MONTH

TODAY!

stitch a tunic top and cropped trousers

Subscribe free* dressmaking kit worth £39.99

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who what

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The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

Crafting Live

Create and Craft presenter Stephanie Weightman’s Crafting Live show will run from 26th to 27th January at the Sandown Park Racecourse in Esher, Surrey. Bring your shopping bag and fill it with crafty goodies, try your hand at the free make ‘n’ take area, or sit back and watch the stars of Create and Craft TV filming the show right before your eyes. One-day tickets £5, two-day £7.50, craftinglive.co.uk

*Valid 13th December to 20th January. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer.

Enjoy browsing through Dragonfly Fabrics’ independent sewing patterns, haberdashery musthaves and huge range of fabrics including boiled wools, cotton jerseys and Art Gallery Fabrics, then use the code Sew60 to get 20% off* your basket!

Visit dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

This mini bolt might not look like a lot of fabric, but it actually measures 1.5m square – just imagine how neat our craft rooms would be if all our fabric was stored like this! The Craft Cotton Company’s patchwork spots design is really cute too, perfect for those of us that love the piecedtogether look but are short on time. £12.99, createand craft.com

Learn from Tilly

We have such a soft spot for our new columnist (eeek!) Tilly Walnes’ online workshops. You get the same expert tuition as you would at an in-person class, but can work at your own pace and whenever it suits you. Try the Sew Your Own Knockout Dress course to learn dressmaking tricks and tips whilst stitching your own Agnes!

From £45, tillyandthebuttons workshops.com

20% off!

January sale!

Mini but mighty

The votes are in!

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The voting stage of the 2017 British Sewing Awards has now closed! We have had an amazing response from all of you showing support for your favourite stitchy brands and personalities – and cannot wait to announce the winners very soon. Enjoy stitching Alice Flowerchild and don’t forget to send a picture to editorial@sewmag.co.uk, or via Facebook or Twitter.

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if you buy one pattern...

Our favourite item from Stoff & Stil’s latest collection is the easy-sew dress with flounce and bounce, shown here made up in the woven twill in dark powder (£14.50 per metre) with three-quarter sleeves and a ruffled skirt.

It can also be made as a straight tunic or top with both short or long sleeves. Did you know, Stoff & Stil patterns come pre-cut on lightweight fleece in your chosen size?

want it,need it, BUY IT!

Brother’s new CV3440 Cover Stitch machine will have you covered whatever type or weight of stretchy fabric you use.

You’ll love how user-friendly it is, with a 10cm x 15.5cm workspace, tension release lever, thread cutter and easy colour-coded threading for four spools. It features four decorative and hemming stitches, plus can make an impressive 1,000 stitches per minute. £499, brothersewing.co.uk

Dress with flounce and bounce, £4.75, stoffstil.co.uk

Finishing touches

Vlieseline is well-known for making great interlinings and finishing touch tapes that you won’t see in a completed garment, but you’ll definitely appreciate how much difference they make to the outcome of your makes. Lady Sew and Sew is offering 20% off^ALL Vlieseline products with code 20SewVli – so now’s your chance to stock up! Visit ladysewandsew.co.uk

Love knits 2018 will be the year you realise you DEFINITELY can sew with knits, and are quite good at it too. To help you get started, knit specialist Girl Charlee is offering 25% off** ALL fabrics with the code SEWKNITS. You can find everything from beginnerfriendly Ponte Roma to French terry – and even some gorgeous metallic pleather numbers! Visit girlcharlee.co.uk

**Valid 12th December to 11th January for UK & European customers only.

Applies to any fabric, but not patterns, bargain lots, sale items or gift cards.

20% off!

25% off!

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^Valid 14th December to 12th January on Vlieseline products at ladysewandsew.co.uk

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sew DRESSMAKING

dress

the

making

sew cover star

collection

Kickstart your new year stitching by whipping up go-to garments for your handmade wardrobe.

Our capsule collection brings simple knit tops, an essential vest, asymmetric skirt, boiled wool tunic, and comfy quilted jumper – all simple stitching and wearing! Just what we need to ease us into 2018‌ Debra skirt, p26

Toni vest, p48

Delia pullover, p22

Knit tops, p10

Kelly tunic, p18

your free pattern

help

here to

Edna dress, p41

Turn the page to get started!

TILLY WALNES

PORTIA LAWRIE

MANDEEP TAHIM

Meet our new columnist, the designer behind Tilly and the Buttons!

Portia and our other Dressmaker of the Year judges share their tips.

Mandeep of Online Fabrics talks choosing the materials for kids' wear.

P20

P28

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Ross of Linton Tweeds shows us some of their beautiful fabrics.

P30

\

your free pattern

of your

FREE

pattern

potential

Discover the

Your FREE PATTERN this month comes packed with SIX EASY KNIT TOPS from Simplicity – although we’ve customised to make one more! Choose from dolman or raglan sleeves in a variety of lengths and finishes, plus options for gathered, drawstring, cuffed or loose hemlines. It has NO FASTENINGS, making this a great INTRODUCTION TO KNITS. Whether you’re looking for something casual or elegant, this pattern has it all!

Gütermann sew-all threads, £1.85 each, minerva crafts.com

put it BLUNTLY Regular dressmaking pins can damage knits just like sharp needles would, so consider ballpoint ones, fabric clips or pattern weights instead.

add STABILITY Stretchy garments are easy to put on and comfortable to wear, but there are some areas where you want more structure, such as at the shoulders and side seams.

You can do this by adding a line of stitching (begin at each end and stop in the middle to keep things even), stay tape, or even thin ribbon within the seam allowances.

choose a THREAD Your FREE pattern is suitable for stretch knit fabrics, so your best bet is a sew-all thread. These are strong and stretchy, whereas cotton threads break more easily. We colour matched our fabrics with shades 196 and 896.

pick a NEEDLE Sharp universal needles can pierce through the fibres of knits and cause skipped or messy stitches. Ballpoint, jersey or stretch needles have a rounded tip that slips easily between the yarns without snagging – ensure you use around size 75 for lightweight knits, and 90 for the rest.

Ballpoint machine needles, £1.42 for five, jjneedles.com

take a WALK Switching to a walking foot on your machine is an easy way to prevent stretch fabrics being distorted whilst you stitch. This is because the fabric Walking foot, is being pulled equally from the top £49, janome.co.uk and bottom, resulting in a neat, flat hem – rather than an uneven or wavy one.

Handmade doughnut pattern weights, £18 for 8 or £24 for 12, kiddylizzy.etsy.com

stretching STITCHES Overlockers or cover stitch machines are a great investment for those who regularly sew with knits, but a twin needle will serve you well to start with. These create two parallel straight lines on the right side, with a zigzag between the two on the wrong side that stretches with your material.

want WOVEN Although this pattern is designed for knit fabrics, it would be possible to stitch it from woven materials too because it’s quite loose-fitting. Consider sewing a muslin first to be sure of the fit at the neckline and armholes.

Cotton spandex knit in coral, £9.95 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk

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Campan jersey knit in light blue and white, £18 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk 10

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ge 13 Turn to paco for your dis unts!

4 pattern

your free pattern

style selector

pieces!

With six variations to choose from, as well as the opportunity to mix and match, you’ll be806 hard-pushed deciding806 SIMPLICITY SIMPLICITY which one to stitch up!

style a/b

Necklace, £15, Monsoon, jeans, £29.99, TK Maxx

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ALL-OCCASION This half-length dolman sleeve blouse is elegant and suitable for any occasion. It can be made with a straight base or elasticated gathering at the side seams.

SIMPLICITY 806

1805 A

B

FRONT

style c CHLLED OUT The cuff at the base of this short dolman sleeve elongates the top and gives it a little more structure. We’d pair this with our1805 fave skinny jeans for a casual weekend style

B

A

SIMPLICITY 806

1805

SIMPLICITY 806

why we made OUR OWN TOP!

style d/E

C

FRONT BACK f style

BACK

BOHO CHIC The gathering makes this a unique take on the cold shoulder and adds extra volume – we’ll be pairing ours with flowing midi skirts.

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D

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1805

A

BACK

BRING IT IN Choose whether you’d ah 11/9/11 ah 11/9/11 like to cuff the sleeves, hemline, both or neither. These variations make for a top that suits your taste and lifestyle.

ah 11/9/11

ah 11/9/11

C

FRONT

FRONT

We customised to make a relaxed, flowing garment that would be easy to sew, soSIMPLICITY paired the sleeves of view 806 E with the base of view D to omit the drawstring. It was a straightforward change, but made a big difference!

A

1805

D

E

F

D

F

E Lore

the perfect

size

the right your free pattern

fit

what’s your size?

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the readyto-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

easy-going This is a loose-fitting pattern with a lot of ease, which makes it really comfortable to wear. If you prefer a more close-fitting garment, you might like to go down a size.

pick ‘N’ mix As the six versions are built from two basic bases, it’s easy to use the sleeves of one with the hemline of another, like we’ve done with our coral version. This makes it really easy to create a top that’s exactly to your taste!

EXTRA TIPS FOR SEWING KNITS

showing straps Add bra strap carries to prevent them from showing at the wide neckline or cold shoulder. Simply stitch the bottom of a snap to the inside of the shoulder seams, thread narrow ribbon through the top half and snap it on, then stitch the ribbon in place a little away.

Snap closed around your bra straps to attach them to your shoulder seams!

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TURN TO P84 FOR MORE USEFUL FITTING AND MEASURING ADVICE

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3 Don’t slide the iron when pressing seams and hems as this can distort the shape.

3 Baking or tissue paper can be used as a tear-away stabiliser – simply place some above and below the fabric whilst stitching.

3 If you accidentally overstretch knit fabrics, hover a hot iron over it and apply steam. This should help it shrink and reshape a little.

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your way

make it

sew DRESSMAKING

Dream

MACHINE

DREAM MACHINE

This self-threading machine gives total tension control over the so you can fine tune the stitches to your fabric, thread and preferences. £899, babylock.co.uk

Grab a

DISCOUNT

page 20 frseom Find tips on alnes for awchininge! expert TillyguW gm knits on a re lar sewin

25% ** OFF with code

SEWKNITS

* OFF with code

Jeans, £25, Marks & Spencer, necklace, £6.99, H&M

Sew60

Next month’s FREE pattern

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SMART CASUAL

Put a spring in your step with a pair of chic culottes, plus a tunic and top – all in sizes 8-20!

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*Valid 13th December to 20th January. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. **Valid 12th December to 11th January for UK & European customers only. Applies to any fabric, but not patterns, bargain lots, sale items or gift cards.

20%

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sew YOU!

You’ve been showing off your handmade gifts and sharing New Year’s resolutions!

Tilly and the Buttons’ Cleo dungaree dress looks fantastic with my Harry Potter-themed embroidered pocket.

My daughter’s Christmas party dress before adding the bow, lining and sleeves!

Charmaine West

Rachel Chilcott

Send your pics to @sewhq on social media!

Kathy Nolan I made a cat quilt... for my cat!

My granddaughter lives in the Philippines so I’ve made her a sleeveless Christmas dress using Geranium from Made by Rae for Christmas. I use this pattern a lot!

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Jill Swire

p67

CHOSEN BY YOU Say Hello to Each month on Facebook we ask you to help us choose a the Sew Mag Llamas! name for our mascot – see the llama’s full names on p67!

“I love word games and the Sewmag Llamas needed distinguished names! The picture is of me as Puss in Boots Help us choose a name in the opera I directed and made costumes for in November.” for next month’s toy at Sophie Kirk-Harris, Sew reader

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Sophie has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk

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social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

www.minervacrafts.com

Write in and WIN! I’ve been making cosmetic bags and pencil cases for my online shop, dorisandhazel.etsy com Samantha Currie

Here is the Alice Flowerchild I made using the free pattern I received for voting in the British Sewing Awards.

Ronnie Foster

My latest make is the Halifax hoodie from Hey June Handmade in some snuggly sweatshirt fabric.

Lorna Abrahams

Sally Phillips

I made a Christmas top for my five-yearold Granddaughter, who chose the kitten fabric panel in the middle herself!

This is my version of New Look 6391 from Sew 104. nd I fou it a little tricky because of the lining, but am really pleased with the how it looks!

Melody Lane

Here are two sequin tops I made with the free pattern in Sew’s Christmas special, one for each of my daughters!

Christine Wilkins

on the sew blog...

My first go at stitching leggings and using a walking foot – which I love!

My eight-year-old is thrilled with them, so now I’m sewing a pair for her younger sister too.

Mel Bazeley

If you’ve not entered our Dressmaker of the Year competition yet, turn to p28 or be inspired on the Sew blog

Whether you’ve got a smart phone or digital camera, why not try our top tips for snapping eye-catching pics?

For 2018, upcycling queen Portia Lawrie took the crown. Don’t miss our interview with this winner-turned-judge!

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If you’re out to steal the title – and even if you’re not –you’ll love these extra little tidbits of information.

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30/11/2017 11:21

sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

READERS’ CHOICE

HHHH HH

We asked and you decided that your favourite garment from last issue was the Dorothy blouse!

Look out on our facebook for the next poll.

sew

H

STAR letter

H

I’ve been making these embroidery hoop decorations. I got a bit carried away so everyone I know will be getting one!

I’ve made a Cleo dress to wear to school!

Brill Stepshort

Jo PaylorSykes

stitch&share

SUITS YOU!

triumphs with Sew! hy itc st st te la ur yo e Shar

’s coatigan in October I loved the ShaunaI bought the same fabric st Sew so much that ics and made it up ju from Dragonfly Faasbrmy first time sewing like you did. It w lé and it wasn’t too bad to with stretch boucI love the coatigan, and it work with at all.mpliments! gets so many co

DOUBLY ADORABLE I made a reversible pinafore!

Maggie Ainsworth

eece Kelly Louise Pr

Ann Barkley

My resolution for 2018 is to take more time with my projects and enjoy the process!

SEWING SUPERHERO! Here’s a waistcoat I made for a little Marvel fan.

Gail Mcknight Anderson

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Sophie Harris MERRY WOOFMAS My pooch was the perfect inspiration for this Christmas cushion.

Rebecca Morcombe

Next year, I’m going to overcome my fear of knit fabrics.

TOO CUTE

I’ve been stocking up on bookmarks because I love making them!

Jean Adams

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Add striking details to our

KELLY TUNIC Boiled wool is famous for being incredibly easy to work with, making this simple statement jumper a great beginner project. Amanda Walker has made use of this no-fray fabric with an on-trend exposed seam along the centre, with even more interest created through the zipped side vents – an optional touch that you can skip for an even quicker make. It’s also really easy to customise the fit to your liking, or you can even try experimenting with a different neckline shape.

stitch a COSY JUMPER Get started

• Boiled wool, 1.5m (1.5m wide) • Two 20cm metal zips

Sizes

Custom-sized

Cutting Guide

Front/back: cut four (quarter of waist measurement, plus 11.5 = width) x 75cm rectangles Neckband: cut one 3cm x 63cm strip Sleeve: cut two 28cm x 54cm pieces on the fold 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

1

Cut out all of the pieces according to the cutting guide.

Pin two front/back pieces right sides together, then measure 10.5cm from the left along the short top edge, then 5cm down from the top-left corner. Draw a curve between these points for the back neckline. Repeat the process for the second pair, but measuring 14.5cm down, to create the front. If you would prefer to use templates for the neckline, download them at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Sleeve diagram

2

Pin the front pieces wrong sides together, then sew the centre-front seam. Repeat for the back panels. Match the front and back pieces at the shoulders, right sides together.

Pin and sew, then press the seam allowances open. Press the neckband strip in half lengthways, then slot it over the neckline at the centre-back seam and pin.

Continue pinning around the curve, then sew around on the right side, 1cm from the fold.

3

Use the diagram (right) to shape the tapered sleeves, then mark the centre point at the top of each one. Match and pin this point to the outer edge of the shoulder seams, right sides together, then pin and stitch the sleeve in place, beginning and ending 1cm from each edge of the seam. Match the underarm and side seams of the front and back, right sides together. Pin, then sew the underarm seam.

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Stitch the side seams, leaving a 20cm gap at the base on each side, then press the seam allowance back at the gap. Position a zip upside down, aligning the zipper teeth with the fold, then pin. Fold up the ends of the zip and pin, then edgestitch the zipper in place using a zipper foot. Turn the sleeve ends to create cuffs and secure with a few hand stitches if desired.

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As boiled wool is generally medium to heavy weight, you can afford to use chunkier metal zips in the side vents.

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SHOPPER ************************

See Cutting Guide. The following example is based on a size 10-12 (86cm bust) Front/back: (86 ÷ 4 = 21.5, + 11.5* = 33) 33cm (width) x 75cm (length) *Extra 11.5cm is for seam allowances (2 x 1cm) and ease (9.5cm)

SLICE OF LIME Medium weight washed wool and viscose blend in chartreuse, £22.50 per metre, dittofabrics.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

Our jumper has 38cm of ease, but it’s easy to alter this to your preference.

Dream

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t e MACHINE n . s g a m d l r o TRY SOMETHING NEW The integrated dual feet on Pfaff’s Ambition 1.0 makes it a great choice for sewists who like to work with a range of different materials. £729, pfaff.com

CO LUNE MW N IS T

Sewing with Tilly HOW TO STITCH KNIT FABRICS ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE

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ant to sew with knit fabrics but don’t own an overlocker? No problem! Whilst these are great for handling stretch fabrics and creating a professional finish (I love mine), they definitely aren’t a necessity. Here are my top tips for sewing knits on a regular sewing machine!

Knits don’t usually fray, so there’s no need to finish the seams.

Have a play around with what you think looks nice!

1

CHANGE YOUR MACHINE NEEDLE

Use a ballpoint or stretch needle in your sewing machine. I find ballpoint ones work best – they have a slightly rounded tip that passes through the looped structure of the material without laddering it. Other people swear by stretch needles, so see which works for you. This is totally optional, but you could use a twin ballpoint needle when topstitching the hem, neckline or pocket. Twin needles form two parallel rows of stitching a few millimetres apart on the right side of your fabric, whilst creating a small zigzag stitch on the wrong side. You’ll need a second spool pin for this – your machine might already have two, or you can attach an extra one to your bobbin winder spindle.

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Use straight stitch for side seams and pockets.

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MAKE FRIENDS WITH ZIGZAG

Set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch to sew horizontal seams, like at the neckline, armholes and hem – anywhere the garment needs to pull across your body. The straight stitch can ‘set’ stretch, so use this one at the side seams and pockets instead.

Before you begin, make sure your presser foot has a wide enough slot so the needle doesn’t hit it when making the zigzags. You can try out variations, but the standard one works for me. Test on two layers of fabric beforehand – the width determines how much the stitch stretches! Play around with the length and width to see what works... I like to use 1.5 width and 2.2 length for joining seams, then 2.5 and 2.5 for a neat topstitch.

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TAKE CARE NOT TO STRETCH

Sew with the needle starting on the seam line, just as you would when using straight stitch, back tacking over either end to secure the stitching.

I find that sometimes back tacking with a zigzag stitch works fine, whilst other times it looks a total mess, in which case I’ll do it with straight stitch!

Take care not to stretch your fabric as it goes through the machine… keep it in front of the machine laying flat, place it on an extension table if you have one, or simply hold the fabric up slightly so it doesn’t hang off your table! Also, if you can find ballpoint pins (I can’t!), you may want to use them. Otherwise, just take care that your pins don’t leave holes in your lovely fabric.

Plus, a few more tips for sewing knits!

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l Check if there’s a dial for changing the presser foot pressure. Reducing the pressure can help stop the fabric stretching too much as it goes through the machine.

l Try a different presser foot. A walking foot or dual feed foot attachment are useful for helping to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching.

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l Take your time when sewing knits, taking regular pauses with the needle down so you can readjust the alignment of the raw edges of the fabric.

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For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com 20

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Cosy up in our joyful

DELIA PULLOVER

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free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew a CASUAL JUMPER Get started

• Quilted jersey, 1.5m (1.5m wide) • Small scrap of fusible interfacing

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Pocket: cut one on the fold Neckband: cut one 6cm x 62cm strip Sleeve: cut one pair Sleeve cuff: cut two 14cm x 25cm strips Hem cuff: cut one 14cm x 1m strip 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

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Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Cut out all the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide, then iron interfacing strips to the angled sides of the pocket piece. Neaten all pocket edges, then fold the slanted sides by 1cm over to the wrong side and topstitch in place.

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Position the pocket centrally on the front piece, matching the bottom edges, then fold the top over by 1cm and stitch.

Stitching can be tricky at this time of year because we’re so excited for the arrival of spring, but still need to be prepared for the typical British weather. Amanda Walker’s lightweight jumper with a muff pocket is great for layering now, but will also see you through to sunnier days. The best thing about working with quilted jersey is that your garment looks like a lot more work went into it than it really did!

Match the front and back shoulder seams, right sides together, then pin and stitch. Neaten the seam allowances together.

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Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, stitch the short ends together with a 1cm seam allowance, then press the seams open. Fold the neckband in half lengthways, wrong sides together, then press.

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Match the raw neckband edges to those of the neckline, then pin and sew in place on the right side, beginning at the centre-back and stretching the neckband to fit as you sew. Neaten all the seam allowances together, then press the seam downwards.

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Lay a sleeve piece on top of the main body, right sides together, matching the centre of the sleeve head to the shoulder seam. Pin, then sew in place. Pin the underarm and side seams, right sides together, then stitch in one continuous line from the sleeve cuff to the base hem.

Neaten all of the seam allowances.

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Prepare the sleeve and hem cuffs as for the neckband.

Pin a cuff to a sleeve, matching the join with the underarm sleeve, then stitch, stretching the cuff to fit. Repeat for the second sleeve, then the hem cuff, matching the join to a side seam and sandwiching the base of the pocket between the front and cuff. Neaten all seam allowances.

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sew DRESSMAKING

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SHOPPER ************************

SUPER SOFT Pre-quilted floral stretch jersey, £8.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

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Jeans, £19.50, Marks & Spencer

Dream

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BERNINA 215SR New year, new sewing machine? Working at up to 900 stitches per minute, featuring 11 stitch patterns and with a needle up/down function, you’ll love this high-power model. £499, bernina.com

Master pin tucks to make a pretty

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free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

ARIEL TOP

This cute pleated garment by Torie Jayne would be perfect for any toddler and makes for easy stitching, using just two main pattern pieces. You’ll get to build your dressmaking skills by sewing pin tucks at the front and by making your own bias binding for the armholes and neckline. The design can also be easily turned into a dress, simply by adding length at the hem.

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LITTLE TUNIC Get started

• Printed cotton, 1m x 1.2m • One button

Sizes

To fit: 2-3 yrs

Cutting guide

Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one pair Armhole bias binding: cut two 5cm x 30cm lengths Neckline bias binding: cut one 5cm x 40cm length 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

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Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Pin and stitch the four pin tucks on the front, as marked on the pattern. Staystitch the neckline and armholes on each front and back piece, 5mm from the edge.

Pin the two back pieces right sides together along the centre-back seam. Stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance, starting at the bottom and stopping 10cm from the top. Backstitch to secure, then press the seam open.

Pin the front and back pieces right sides together, aligning the shoulder and side seams, then stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance.

Using a bias binding maker, press the strips of fabric for the armhole and neckline bindings into 25mm wide

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lengths, then fold in half again to create double-folded tape.

Bind the neckline, starting from one of the centre-back seams and folding the short end of the bias tape over by 9mm to ensure the raw edges are hidden. Slip the neckline between the folds of the bias binding, placing the raw edge against the centre crease.

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Stitch the bias tape in place from the outside, making sure to catch the folded edge on the underside, then fold the ends of the binding under to complete. Press in place. Starting at one of the side seams, bind the armhole by folding the short end of the bias tape over by 9mm, then slipping the armhole between the folds against the centre crease as before.

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Sew the bias tape in place from the outside, catching in the folded edge on the underside and overlapping the ends of the binding to complete.

Press in place. Stitch a horizontal buttonhole in the bias binding to the left of the centre-back. Sew a button on the bias binding to the right of the centre back, then press the garment.

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sew DRESSMAKING

dreamy

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DENIM Hard-wearing yet stylish, no wardrobe is complete without at least one pair of denim jeans, plus the odd jacket and skirt.

Historically, denims were dyed indigo blue, but today the fabric can be found in a wide variety of colours – from black and grey to bright shades and pastels, and even with patterns. This cotton textile is reasonably thick and sturdy, although you can also purchase stretch versions that contain elastic components such as spandex, which have more ‘give’ to them – perfect for figure-flattering skinny jeans!

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Robert Kaufman railroad denim, £15 per metre, eclecticmaker.co.uk

Stretch denim in grey, £11.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

Tinted denim in sea glass, hantex. co.uk/cloud9denim for stockists.

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Tinted denim in latte, hantex.co.uk/ cloud9denim for stockists.

Tinted denim in maize, hantex.co.uk/ cloud9denim for stockists.

Tinted denim in heather, hantex. co.uk/cloud9denim for stockists.

Multicoloured striped denim, £8.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Stretch denim in medium blue, £11.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

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free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

stitch a DENIM SKIRT

Work with denim to create a

DEBRA SKIRT Denim skirts are a wardrobe staple and this chic number by Julia Claridge puts a twist on the style classic with its asymmetric hem.

The flattering wrap design is fastened with a D-ring tab and tie, plus a hand-stitched button loop for additional security.

Get started

• Denim, 1.7m (1.4m wide) • Medium weight interfacing • Two D-rings, 3cm wide • One button

Sizes 8-22

Cutting guide

Front left: cut one Front right: cut one Back: cut one on the fold Left and right front hem: cut one of each Left and right waist facings: cut one of each Back waist and back hem facings: cut one of each on the fold D-ring tab: cut one Tie: cut one Note: apply interfacing to the reverse of all of the waistband facing pieces 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Cut out all the pieces according to the cutting guide.

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Mark the centre of both front panels to position the button later. Stitch the back skirt darts.

With right sides together, sew the front-right skirt piece to the back at the side, then neaten the raw edges.

Pin the D-ring tab to the front-left panel of the skirt.

Stitch to secure. Join the front-left to the back. Pin the tie 2cm below the waist at the front-right side seam, matching the raw edges.

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Trim the seam at the waist edge, Understitch the waist edge as making the layers of fabric far as you can into the corners. different lengths to reduce bulk – Turn the waist and hem this is known as grading. facings to the inside, then press.

With right sides together, join the long edges of the D-ring tab and then the tie edge, leaving the short straight edge open on each one. Trim the excess, turn each piece right sides out and press.

Stitch the front-right and back at the side with the tie sandwiched between, then neaten. With right sides together, stitch the waist facing to the upper edge of the skirt.

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Join all the hem facings, right sides together. Neaten the inner raw edge. Pin it around the front and back, right sides together. Stitch, pivoting at the upper edge to align with the waist facing.

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Pin, then stitch the hem facing in place, beginning at the top and sewing close to the inner edge of the facing.

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Thread the tab through the D-ring. Match the raw edges, then stitch as closely to the D-ring as possible to secure it. Join the waistband facing pieces together and neaten the lower edge.

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Hand stitch a loop to the upper edge of the frontright panel (see Core Skill panel) and a button inside the skirt.

sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill: THREAD BUTTON LOOPS

Bring a long, doubled length of thread out from the wrong side where you want your loop to start. Make a stitch next to this but before pulling the resulting loop closed, make a slip knot into it. Make another into the loop of this, repeating until the crocheted chain is long enough to loosely loop around the button. Secure this back in your fabric, leaving enough space to fit the button through.

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SHOPPER

Jumper, £29.95, Benetton, bracelet, mdoel’s own

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GOT THE BLUES This classic Robert Kaufman washed indigo denim creates a comfortable, stylish skirt. £16.80 per metre, bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

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Dressmaker of the Year is back and it’s even bigger than before! Along with our sister title Make It Today Dressmaker, we’re offering you the chance to share your creations, with six categories to enter, plus a star line-up of judges who will be assessing your creativity, style and skill. Discover what they’ll be looking for in a winning garment below...

Everyday

“Staples that are easy to wear and care for, comfortable and practical yet stylish. It goes without saying that they should be well made, but think carefully about the fabrics your garment is sewn from, and the finishes that will make it your ‘go-to’ outfit.” STUART HILLARD

NEW!

Occasion

Enter to receive two FREE patterns!

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“Sewing for special occasions means you can work with more luxurious fabrics, from floaty chiffon and crepe de chine to soft velvet and silk. Soft shades are good for weddings and christenings, while you can push the boat out for parties with vibrant jewel tones.” VICKY GILL

Vintage

“If you want to recreate the style of a previous era, it’s always best to design the garment yourself from a toile you’ve made. Find some original vintage patterns from your local charity shop to get an idea of how they were created, then create your outfit using your measurements and block accordingly.” LIBBY ROSE

Upcycling

”When it comes to refashioning, it’s best to let the garment dictate the direction of your make. Have a plan, but be prepared to adapt and compromise your original idea. One challenge is having only small pieces of fabric to work with – use panelling and interesting seaming details to create larger pieces that you can work with.” PORTIA LAWRIE

Children’s wear

“When it comes to children’s wear, it should be just that – for children.

Think comfortable and practical for both playtime and naptime, and the cuter the better! Fabrics that are soft against the skin and easy to wash are plus.” TILLY WALNES

NEW!

Simplicity

“If you’re a regular reader of Sew, you’ll have built up a collection of our free Simplicity and New Look patterns. This category lets you choose your favourite and create your own take on it. Don’t forget to include details of the pattern brand and number.” JENNY WARD, SEW EDITOR

Could you be our champion stitcher?

WIN! £3,500+ of sewing goodies!

There’s a host of prizes up for grabs, including a Janome Atelier 5 sewing machine, worth £999, plus an Adjustoform Olivia 8 dressform, Madeira threads, and much more for the crowned champion! Our other category winners will each win a Janome 230DC sewing machine worth £349, £100 of Hobbycraft vouchers, and a pair of personalised scissors from Fiskars worth £70. Every entrant will also receive TWO FREE patterns from Simplicity!

HOW TO

Simply take a clear photo of your garment against a plain background and enter it online at makeittoday.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear. You can include up to five shots of your make and are also able to tell us a

enter s.net little more about your entry or the story behind it. You can enter every category, with multiple entries if you wish, but each entry must be a different garment.

All entries must be submitted by 9th March 2018.

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Marie Robson, Children’s category

Asha Chacko, Children’s category

ns!

Julie Chandler, Upcycling category

Melanie Sutton, Simplicity category

Janice Fish, Upcycling category Amy WhitleyWoodward, Occasion category

HERE ARE JUST SOME OF YOUR ENTRIES! Simona Barlow, Everyday category

Diane HudsonSharpe, Vintage category

Sarah Unsworth, Occasion category

Carol Clancy, Vintage category

Georgia Leslie, Everyday category

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Leanne Taylor, Children’s category 29

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Stitch the Look

WHY NOT TRY

STYLISH TWEED

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This fabric is made to be worn outdoors, being durable and moisture-resistant whilst keeping its wearer cosy. It has an open woollen texture that is woven in a choice of different methods, including the twill and herringbone weave. The fabric looks instantly chic when made up into clothing, being the go-to of Gabrielle Chanel herself!

Because it is made from all number of yarns, you’ll find that tweed comes in an incredible choice of colours, textures and patterns!

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“At Linton Tweeds we stock a vast range of fabrics that are well-suited to lots of different garments – from jackets and coats to skirts! Our fabrics are high quality and created using unique yarns that we source from all over the world.”

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1 Black and white, £26 per metre 2 Red and black, £26 per metre 3 Blue, grey, black and white, £34 per metre 4 Peach, purple, blue and green, £34 per metre 5 Navy, white and taupe houndstooth, £34 per metre

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Ross Walker, Linton Tweeds

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All of the featured fabrics are available from lintondirect.co.uk

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P OP

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NDIE pattern news T

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D E SI G N E R S

Lliria dress

by Pauline Alice

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Difficulty:

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Lliria is a romantic, flowing 40s style wrap dress that can be made up above or below the knee, and with short or three-quarter length sleeves. It’s semifitted and features gathers in the bodice and skirt, a shaped waistband and – our favourite – a curved button closure.

Make it up in anything lightweight with good drape, like cotton lawn, linen or silk. £15, backstitch.co.uk

FIT S

3M 012 Y R S

I Dig Dungarees

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by Made By Jack’s Mum Difficulty:

Buy this pattern and you’ll be dressing every kid you know – seriously! It includes options for full-length trousers, shorts and a skirt, plus finishing the braces with traditional dungaree fastenings or button closures. There’s even side-waist buttons for easy dressing. As a bonus, the instructions couldn’t be clearer, with a colour photo guide for each step. £7.20 (PDF), madebyjacksmum.etsy.com

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Culver dress

by Pier&Palace

SIZ ES

Difficulty:

18 4-

Culver is a sportswear-inspired modern skater dress designed for stretch fabrics that is both comfortable and stylish. The bodice is panelled with seams that shape the dress and add interest, like the curved panels at the side of the partial-circle skirt. It can easily be layered and dressed up or down, and how you finish the dress – with curved neck and armhole facings or a full lining – is completely up to you! £10 (PDF), pierandpalace.com

Gaia coat

by Named Difficulty:

6-

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Those who fancy a challenge with a big payoff can make up this loose-fitting, straight-cut coat. It’s fully lined and features well-placed contrast panels, wide lapels and welt pockets. One particularly interesting feature is the seamwork at the top, joining the front, back shoulders and arms in a unique geometric fashion. £19.60, namedclothing.com

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S 8-18

Sasha trousers

by Closet Case Difficulty: These trousers are SO flattering and comfortable, we can hardly believe it! The slim-fit pattern is made for stretch woven fabrics, and features a mid-rise contour waistband and tapered leg that you can stitch full-length or crop. Beginners can easily master the basics, whilst those with more experience can add belt loops, hidden closures and two kinds of pockets. £13.50, closetcasepatterns.com

Ellis & Hattie dress

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by Merchant & Mills Difficulty:

Who doesn’t love a 2-in-1 pattern? Both versions of the dress feature a high neckline with four darts and a back button fastening, but are otherwise different. ‘Ellis’ also has bust darts, set-in half-length sleeves and in-seam side pockets. The waist is dropped for ‘Hattie’, which has a more tomboy feel and patch pockets. Which will be your favourite? £14.50, merchantandmills.com

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CRAFTY 5RESOLUTIONS you’ll actually want to keep!

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Learn Embroidery

Think you’re incapable of sticking to your new year pledges? It’s not your fault, you’re just making the wrong ones!

Slowing down with mindful hand sewing to create beautiful pieces is a sure way to make 2018 a more relaxed and enjoyable year. The Royal School of Needlework offers a host of outstanding embroidery classes from complete beginner up to degree level. Browse and enrol at royal-needlework.org.uk to become involved in Britain’s heritage craft.

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HRH The Duchess of Cornwall, RSN Patron, enjoys a spot of embroidery

Stash Bust

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Have a WIP (Work In Progress) mountain that’s taller than Everest? Don’t start anything new until you’ve made a decent dent in it. Have a messy pile of scraps you keep telling yourself you’ll sort out and use? Sewing personality and scrap queen Debbie Shore recommends a thrifty approach. “I like to use every small remnant of fabric,” she says. “An easy way to make use of thin strips is to stitch them onto calico squares, then zigzag stitch the bulky squares together. You could make this up into virtually any project – I’ve turned mine into a reusable gift bag for next Christmas!”

Get Organised

It’s easy to have a proper tidy when you’re full of the zest and optimism that the new year brings, but the chances of it staying like this only gets lower with every project. One sure-fire way to keep on top of the clutter is by investing in some purpose-built storage, where your stash is within easy reach and displayed so nicely that you look forward to tidying it away. Specialist craft furniture is available from rnfcreateyourspace.com

Win this online class on p79!

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Challenge Yourself

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Have Fun!

Stop bogging yourself down with the serious stitching – hemming the curtains can wait. Grab the brightest fabric you can find and sew something you absolutely don’t need, just because you can! Find the FREE project for this kissable clutch at sewmag.co.uk 34

sewmag.co.uk Crafty resolutions (f).indd 1

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You’ll feel fantastic for learning a new skill! If you can’t commit to a regular workshop, an online one is about to become your BFF. Learn a new skill at your own pace and in your pyjamas if you’d like! The best bit is that you can rewatch the videos as many times as you need. We recommend Sew Over It’s Ultimate Guide to Sewing and Fitting Trousers, £45, sewoverit.co.uk

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1 SLIDERS

These allow you to adjust the length of a strap by sliding it along its length, which is especially handy for shoulder and cross body styles. Emmaline Bags adjustable sliders in nickel, £3.45 for four.

2 STRAPS

Attach this sturdy strapping to your bag as it is or for a more coordinated style, try covering it with the same fabric –or opt for a contrast one instead. Strapping Polypro 1 in white, £5.99 for six yards.

in the

3 MAGNETIC CLASP

Shaped like a capital ‘D’, these are available in plastic or metal varieties. They can be used to connect the strap to the bag itself by attaching to both the strap ends and a tab on the bag. Emmaline Bags D rings in nickel, £1.95 for four.

If you want to fasten your bag with a strap, a buckle will work best. These function much like belt versions, where the strap slides through and is fastened with a prong. Emmaline Bags buckles, £5.90 for four.

These secure closures include press stud styles that can be fastened to the middle or edge of the opening.

Emmaline Bags half moon magnetic edge clasp in nickel, £4.90 each.

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BAG

5 D-RING

4 BUCKLES

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MAGNECTIC SNAPS OR HARDWARE SUCH AS TWIST LOCKS CAN BE EASIER TO ATTACH THAN ZIPS

6 HANDLE

Available in a wide variety of materials, including leather, bamboo, plastic and metal, these vary from half-moon shapes to metal vintagestyle handles. Emmaline Bags oval bag handles in nickel, £8.99 per pair.

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7 SWIVEL CLIP

Sometimes known as ‘dog clips’, these function a little like keyrings, giving you the option of attaching and removing a strap as required. Emmaline Bags swivel snap hook in nickel, £2.80 each.

8 ZIP PULL

If your bag has a zip fastening you can add a decorative touch with a coordinating pull that simply clips onto the end.

Emmaline Bags handmade zipper pull in nickel, £1.99 each.

9 FEET

As well as providing a decorative finish, these protect the bottom of your bag when it’s put on the floor.

It is best to reinforce the base with a rigid or semirigid bottom first. Bag feet in nickel, £2.50 for eight.

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10 FRAME

Frames provide a sturdy structure for you to build your bag around. These fit around the opening and range from dainty clutch through to everyday designs. Emmaline Bags small internal tubular frame, £12.50 each.

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Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.

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Get started

• Tweed, 80cm (1.5m wide) • Lining fabric, 50cm square • Soft leather, 20cm square • 2.5cm wide elastic • Double-sided pelmet stiffener, 30cm • 2.5cm cover button • Fabric glue

Sizes

Hat: one size Scarf: 40cm x 1.5m

Cutting guide

Hat peak: cut two from tweed Peak stiffener: cut two from pelmet stiffener Crown panel: cut eight each from tweed and lining Hat band: cut one 6cm x 60cm strip each from from tweed and lining Scarf: cut one 40cm x 1.5m strip from tweed

Stay cosy and stylish wearing a matching

ISOBEL HAT & SCARF

This coordinating hat and scarf set by Amanda Walker will keep you wrapped up warm and looking chic, plus is much easier to stitch than you’d think. You’ll learn how to create the perfect peak, sew in an elastic head band, cover a button, and work with leather to add decorative bows.

1cm seam allowance used throughout.

make a CUTE SET

1

Download and print the pattern from sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut out all of the pieces according to the cutting guide. Glue the two peak stiffener pieces together, leaving the paper on the outer sides. Pin the hat peak pieces right sides together, then sew around. Peel the paper from one side of the stiffener, stick it to the fabric, then turn the peak right sides out.

Remove the paper on the other side of the stiffener and seal the fabric in place.

Sew the tweed crown panels together in two sections of four.

To enable the points of the panels to join neatly, stop stitching 1cm from the top. Repeat this for the lining pieces. Cover a button with leather (see Core Skills panel) and attach it to the centre-top of the crown panels.

Stitch the two short ends of the tweed hat band together, then repeat for the lining piece. Press the seams open. Match the band seam to the centre base of one of the crown panels. Pin the remainder around the base and sew, then repeat for the lining. Pin the centre inside edge of the peak to the centre front point of the band.

Tack the peak to the band, then stitch.

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Position 10cm of elastic centrally over the centre-back seam of the band lining. Stretch the elastic slightly and stitch to the band to secure. Sew the other end in place, being careful to stitch it in the same place on the opposite side of the centre-back seam.

Place the fabric hat in the lining, with the right sides of the lining together. Match the centre-back seams of the bands, pin around the edges and stitch, leaving a 10cm gap at one side of the peak. Turn the hat through the gap, then slip stitch the gap closed. Tease out the seam and press the lining. Edgestitch around the base of the band, from one side of the peak to the other.

For the bow, cut a 4cm x 17cm strip of leather, then fold in half lengthwise and glue the raw edges. Fold the two short ends in towards each other in the middle and glue again. Wrap a 2.5cm x 5cm leather band around the middle of the folded strip, pull tight and glue together at the reverse. Sew to one side of the peak on the hat band.

For the scarf, mark the centre point of one long edge. Cut from the corners of the opposite long edge up to this point to form a large triangle. Fold and press in 1cm twice around all three edges. Pin and edgestitch in place. Cut two strips of leather to the length of the scarf ends, then wrap and glue them in place.

Make a bow as for the hat, then sew to the centre point.

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sew DRESSMAKING

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew

SHOPPER

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CHECK MATE We used pure wool Donegal tweed in multi check for this hat and scarf set, featuring pretty purples, pinks and green. ÂŁ30 per metre, trurofabrics.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

Core skill: COVERING A BUTTON Cover button kits allow you to customise a button with fabric – they typically consist of a button back, plain button shell, circle template, button mould and button pusher. Use the template to cut a circle from your leather, place it face-down and set a button shell on top. Gather up the sides of the leather around the button, checking that there are no folds or creases on the front. Press the wrapped button inside the mould all the way to the bottom, using the pusher. Place the button back onto the top of the mould, push down firmly until it snaps into place, then remove the covered button.

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www.online-fabrics.co.uk

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Tel: 02476 687776 | Email: info@online-fabrics.co.uk

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sew DRESSMAKING

YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Adding front pockets 3 Attaching neck facings 3 Making sleeves

sew masterclass

Get comfy and chic in our

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

EDNA DRESS

If you’re looking for a garment that is both stylish and easy to wear, this dress has your name on it. The loose-fitting tunic is made from crisp linen and features easysew pockets, subtle topstitching, plus a back neck loop and button at the reverse for fastening. It’s destined to become a go-to piece in your wardrobe!

Get started

• Medium weight linen or cotton/linen, 2.2m (1.4m wide) or 2.6m (1.15m wide) • Lightweight fusible interfacing, 20cm x 75cm • 1.5cm button

Sizes

Bust (cm)

Waist (cm)

Hips (cm)

82-86

65-69

90-94

Medium (12-14)

91-96

74-79

99-104

Large (16-18)

100-106

84-89

109-114

Small (8-10)

Finished length: approx. 92.5cm (sml), 94cm (med), 96.5cm (lrg) Finished hip: approx. 110cm (sml), 120cm (med), 130cm (lrg)

Cutting guide

Note: iron interfacing to the reverse of the front and back facings Lower front: cut one on the fold Front facing: cut one on the fold Upper front: cut one pair Upper back: cut one pair Lower back: cut one pair Back facing: cut one pair Pocket: cut two Note: cut the following pieces from fabric where the raw edges are aligned at the centre cut Sleeve: cut two on the fold Loop: cut one on the diagonal grain See online for layout diagram. 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

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stitch a TUNIC DRESS Sewing the body pieces

Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING This pattern is made up of the following pieces: the upper front, upper back, lower front, lower back, sleeve, front facing, back facing, pocket and loop. l When topstitching, extend the stitch length to 2.8mm then sew roughly 4mm from the seam line on the right side, using a contrast colour thread to accentuate it. l You’ll need a poking tool when pressing out the seams of the neck facing. l To make a rouleau loop, fold the strip in half lengthways.

Sew a 1cm seam, leaving a long thread at one end. Tie this onto a blunt-ended needle and pass it into the tube and out of the other end. Ease the fabric through the tube gently to turn right sides out, then press. l Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or overlocker. l Remember that a 1cm seam allowance is used throughout. l

1

2

3

4

5

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Visit sewmag.co.uk/templates to download and print the pattern. Pin the upper back pieces right sides together, then sew up to the marker point as indicated on the template, leaving the seam open above.

Press the pocket away from the body and topstitch. Pin the upper front to the lower front, right sides together and aligning the pockets. Sew together along and around pockets. Press.

Pin the lower back pieces right sides together, then sew the centre-back seam.

Pin the upper front pieces right sides together, then sew the centre-front seam. Press all of the seams open.

Using a contrast colour thread, topstitch down the vertical centre-front and centre-back seams, then across the horizontal front and back seam (press the pockets upwards when doing this).

Finish the raw edges of each pocket piece, leaving the top edge raw. Pin the pockets to the upper and lower front at the horizontal raw edge as indicated on the template. Sew, then finish the raw edges.

Place the front and back pieces with right sides together, pin at the shoulders, then sew them together at the shoulder seams. Press the seams to the back.

Stitching the neck facing

7

Pin the front and back facings right sides together. Sew at the short sides, then press the seams open. Finish the raw outer edge of the facing. Tack the piece to the neck, right sides together and aligning the cross seams.

8

Stitch around and down the short sides at each far end.

Nick the curved seam allowance and corners, then trim at the cross seam. Press to the right side, pushing the seams out and aligning them with the fold.

9

Make your loop (see Fiona’s tips, left), then nick the seam at the right-hand side of the neck facing. Insert the loop, re-stitch, then pin the facing in position all around. Tack, then topstitch around the neckline, 4cm from the edge.

Making the sleeves & hemming

The rouleau loop is trapped inside the neck facing and catches around the button to fasten

10

Pin then sew the sleeves to the body. Finish the raw edges and press. Sew the front to the back at the sides, from the sleeve edge to the lower hem.

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Finish all of the raw edges, then nick the curved underarm seam allowances. Turn the tunic right sides out, then press.

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Make a 2cm hem at both the tunic hem and sleeve edges, then topstitch in a contrasting thread. Sew a small button on at the back neck.

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

SHOPPER

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LOVELY LINEN This 140cm wide fabric is 100% linen, and has a washed and textured look. £16 per metre, raystitch.co.uk

Top, £9.99, H&M, leggings, £15, Marks & Spencer, boots, £24.99, TK Maxx

************************ thank you for shopping!

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MACHINE s g a m d l r o Dream

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EASY STITCHING Touted as Janome’s easiest ever machine, the DKS100 SE has 10 large buttons to select the most popular stitches, plus four for the auto buttonholes.

It even has a special function that enables some stitches to be elongated up to five times!

RRP £529, janome.co.uk

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sewing

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Our experts advise on stitching garments for the kids

Q

I want to make a party dress for my five-year -old daughter – what fabrics would look special, but still be easily washable and comfortable?

Two-way stretch velvet, £12.99 per metre

Judy Dempster

Into The Woods cotton, £6.99 per metre

Mandeep says

When it comes to making party dresses for our little girls, nothing is more important than comfort.

The last thing you need is for your littl’un to be agitated all the way through the party, because you know that will spell trouble for you later on!

One of the best fabrics for a lovely, comfortable dress is a soft printed cotton poplin that you can add detail to, such as a nice trim, embellishment or appliqué flowers… the list is endless! Cotton is a great choice for children’s clothing in general as it is a breathable fabric that’s both easy to wash and sew.

Another option that would be ideal for a party outfit is stretch velvet or velour. Again, it is both comfortable and soft, whilst the sheen provides a luxury look that makes a dress look really special.

You could also create accessories to match the outfit, such as a hair bow or a small purse – I’m sure that would go down a treat! You’ll find a wide selection of fabrics available on our website online-fabrics.co.uk

Heart print cotton, £4.99 per metre

Dotty craft cotton, £4.99 per metre

Q

I’d like to sew some leggings for my newborn niece but I’ve never made baby clothes before – can you give me any tips?

Molly Watson

Lisa says

Sewing baby clothes isn’t that much different from making garments for adults – they just take less time because they’re much smaller! I started stitching leggings for my little girl as I found shop-bought ones didn’t fit well. She’s a chubby baby, so narrow waistbands would dig into her tummy. If you think this might be an issue, make a wide cummerbund-style waistband to attach to the top of the leggings instead.

I also had problems with my daughter’s socks always falling off, so started sewing her leggings with built-in feet. On a similarly practical level, consider how you’re going to change their nappy; leggings are fairly easy to take on and off, but you could add snaps around the in-seams for easy access. Lastly, it’s important to choose the right fabric. I recommend using a 100% cotton knit for leggings, with a good amount of stretch for comfort – the softer it is, the better for babies!

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here to

help

MANDEEP TAHIM

KATE UNDERDOWN

LISA COMFORT

The creative and general director of the fabric retail company Online Fabrics, which offers a wide range of materials.

Owner of London shop Sew Over It, plus designer of her own vintageinspired pattern brand with a contemporary twist.

online-fabrics.co.uk

sewoverit.co.uk

The co-founder of online community The Fold Line, which aims to encourage new sewists and inspire seasoned stitchers.

Q

top 4

thefoldline.com

Can you suggest some simple children’s clothes I could make for a two-year-old girl? I’ve only just started making adult garments!

Peg bags

There’s something really satisfying about hanging your laundry outside – weather permitting, of course!

When tending to your freshly washed loads, a peg bag is always handy to have nearby – here are a few of our faves.

Laura Tate

Kate says

There are some really great kids pattern companies out there – as well as the big names such as Simplicity, New Look and McCall’s, there are also a number of fantastic independent designers. Madeit patterns (madeit -patterns.com) are one of my favourite brands and their spin dress would be a speedy make that’s great for twirling!

Megan Nielsen (megannielsen. com) also has some really lovely basic patterns that are good for layering – including sweaters, T-shirts, culottes and leggings. If you’re looking for something a little more traditional, then have a peek at Oliver & S (oliverands.com). You’ll find a wide range for children including dresses, tunics and culottes for girls, plus smart tops and trousers for boys. I’d suggest diving in with jersey... not only is it really comfortable, you can also bung it into the washing machine!

Retro print Vintage apple, £6.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

Nordic style Scandi blue & white, £9, tch.net

Pot plants

tip!

Brie Harrison, £9.95, annabeljames.co.uk

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Keep your child's measurements handy and update them often. that way, you can take advantage of any fabric sales when out shopping!

Think pink

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Library dress pattern, £12.20 (PDF and paper), oliverands.com

Prefer to make your own? For a choice of peg bag projects visit sewmag.co.uk

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Flamingo print, £11, sophieallport.com

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Stitch ONCE

wear FOREVER Why choosing capsule clothing will help you sew smart and dress happy Words by Jennifer Ward

H

ow often have you decided you’re ‘Having a clear out’ of your wardrobe, only to come across unworn clothing (I swear it looked good in the fitting room), poorly fitting garments (Ah, another only-to-be-worn-inside piece), and just all-round questionable choices (What WAS I thinking?!)... hands up – yes, you!

If this does not in fact apply to yourself, you’re either telling porkies… or potentially Sew’s new columnist. Whilst we’ve all been guilty of having an unruly closet, the idea of a capsule wardrobe has steadily been gaining momentum. That is, the concept of having essential pieces in your closet that will never fall out of vogue, or at least not for the forseeable future.

THE CAPSULE CONCEPT

Now, if you’re a lover of clothes and all things fabric or print, the idea of a capsule wardrobe might not be the most appealing. “A PAREDBACK CLOSET?” we hear you cry (or was that us? We forget). But don’t be too hasty to dismiss it… in reality, the concept might just save that morning ritual of trying threequarters of your wardrobe on, only before piling it onto the permanent fixture in many women’s bedrooms – widely known as ‘the clothes chair’, ‘chairdrobe’ or rather, the black hole of your wardrobe, and younger sister to the ‘floordrobe’.

Does “Tried on, don’t have time to hang up, will probably crease” ring a bell? The theory behind capsule clothing is that more reliable, fail-safe garments will prevent such dilemmas.

Arianna Cadwallader is a bespoke milliner and maker, plus one of the authors behind Sewing Your Perfect Capsule Wardrobe, a new book she wrote together with designer Cathy McKinnon. “I think a ‘capsule’ piece of clothing is a go-to garment that you feel good in, looks great, and can be dressed to the season,” she tells Sew. “For instance, a simple shift dress never really goes out of style – you can wear it with lovely sandals, sunnies and chunky jewellery in summer, then boots, tights and a roll-neck underneath in the winter.” In their new book, Arianna and Cathy offer five key pieces to make for your own handmade wardrobe, with projects for a skirt, shift dress, trousers, blouse and vest top (find this one overleaf!) – plus a choice of variations so you can tailor them to your own style. “Cathy and I asked the girls in our sewing sessions, then thought long and hard about the garments to narrow it down to these five pieces,” Arianna says. “Trends come and go, but you can never go too far wrong with simple silhouettes.”

MAKE IT YOUR OWN

Rather than following a prescribed formula of what to wear, the duo also believe the capsule concept is about seeking out timeless pieces that fit your own personal style. This ethos lies in looking at your own shape and taste, knowing what you feel comfortable in, and adapting it to suit. “Not everyone likes wearing a pencil skirt, and some prefer a shorter A-line,” Arianna elaborates. “You can adapt the patterns in our book to create your perfect garment – rather than what you think you should wear or what looks great on somebody else.” Of course, in order to create your own capsule wardrobe, it might be worth taking some time to consider your own personal look – evaluating the shapes that you wear most often, the colours you’re drawn to and most importantly, the styles that make you feel good.

“Wearing garments that suit your body shape never goes out of fashion.”

Arianna Cadwallader, milliner, maker and author

“I love the quote by editor-in-chief of American Vogue, Anna Wintour: ‘Create your own style... let it be unique for yourself and yet identifiable for others’... To me, style lies in how you wear clothes,” Arianna elaborates. “I don’t think it’s about chasing the latest trends but wearing garments that suit your body shape, colouring and personality. It is individual and style never goes out of fashion. When you find your look, you’ll look great and feel great every time.” So this new year, will you be tempted to cull your wardrobe into capsule status? It’s not about refining your style or changing it, but being true to it and taking a good hard look at your wardrobe. Be brutal, be honest and be shrewd.

Ask yourself whether your closet is doing you a disservice by piling onto your chair of discarded clothes – relegated to the tried-anddistrusted heap – rather than allowing you to put on a garment that you’ve made or bought, safe in the knowledge that it will make you feel exactly like good clothing should… comfortable, confident and carefree.

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Photograph by Amanda Thomas for Sewing Your Perfect Capsule Wardrobe (2017, Kyle Books)

sew DRESSMAKING

take it from the EXPERT

“Don’t jump aboard a trend just because it’s on the catwalk, wear what suits you and makes you feel good. I think the main rule is don’t follow the rules”

Fashion guru, shoe extraordinaire and our very own stylist, the talented Boo Hill never fails to bring beautiful clothes to the Sew model shoots. In fact, our make up artist Dottie Monaghan and editorial team has been known to leave with some of her gorgeous finds at the end of the day! Here, she shares her top ten recommendations for a capsule wardrobe. “All of the below can be mixed and matched together, giving a

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1) Breton top 2) Crisp white shirt 3) White T-shirt 4) Little black dress 5)Blue jeans 6) Black tapered trousers 7) Black jacket 8) Long cardigan 9) White Converse-style pumps 10) Kitten heels

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variety of styles for day and night.

Invest in these garments as all of them are style classics and won’t date, which means you’ll enjoy wearing them for years to come,” she advises. “Buy quality items that look great. Even if you have fewer clothes overall, it’s best to spend more on what you wear most. A quality piece will wear well and last for years to come. Jewellery, heels and a clutch are always the simplest way to go from day to night!”

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Create a wardrobe staple with the

TONI VEST

Vest tops are an essential garment, so you'll want one of these beauts in every colour! Using just two pattern pieces and less than one metre of fabric, the project is ideal for those who've never worked with knits.

stitch a TOP Get started

Size

1

2

3

4

book

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

• Light or medium-weight jersey, 68cm (140cm wide)

Sizes (in cm)

Get the

sew

5

6

Bust: 81 86.5 91.5 96.5 101.5 106.5 Waist: 61 66

71

76

81

86.5

Hip:

94

99

104

109

84 89

Cutting guide

This project is taken from Sewing Your Perfect Capsule Wardrobe by Arianna Cadwallader and Cathy Mckinnon. ÂŁ19.99, kylebooks.co.uk.

Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout except where otherwise stated.

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Match the notches of the front and back pieces at both shoulder seams and side seams, then pin right sides together. Using a single ballpoint needle, set your machine to a narrow zigzag stitch so that it stretches with the movement of the fabric (see Core Skill panel).

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2 3

Sew both the shoulder seams and the side seams. If using a fine jersey, trim the excess to 5mm to avoid a bulky seam.

Change to twin ballpoint needles and set your machine to straight stitch. Fold and pin the raw edge of the neckline under to the wrong side by 1.5cm. Turn the vest right sides out and stitch around the neckline. Trim any excess fabric. Repeat on both armholes. Turn under a 2.5cm hem, pin, then stitch.

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The top works best in light to medium-weight jersey - avoid very fine fabrics or any with lots of stretch as these can be difficult to work with

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill: SEWING JERSEY

A ballpoint needle is great for sewing knit fabrics because it has a round tip and pushes the fibres aside when sewing rather than piercing them.

Alternatively, a stretch needle would also work well. Size 75/11 and 80/12 needles work best for light to medium-weight knits, whilst a 90/14 needle suits heavier fabrics.

t e MACHINE.n s g a m d l r o

Photography by Amanda Thomas

Dream

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CREATE FLAWLESS SEAMS The MO-114D from Juki is a two, three and fourthread overlocker that will finish your garments to perfection, with built-in tensions, differential feed and adjustable foot pressure. ÂŁ529, jukiuk.com

30/11/2017 17:13

! s t E l u s N e r I l a n H o i s s C e f o A r M Get p R A U G

A J r u o y e v Lo

®

DQS 405

This top-of-the-range computerised machine has Jaguar’s unique digital quick-threading system – one of the fastest on the market. It is lightweight yet sturdy, and works on any material, from delicate silks to multiple layers of denim. The speed slider provides ultimate control, whilst the range of functional and decorative stitches are great for any project.

FAST THREADING SYSTEM

Price: £549

Sew with a fantastic model from

JAGUAR

®

DQS 377

Complete with 13 onestep buttonholes and 100 GREAT ALL built-in stitches including ROUNDER appliqué, embroidery and patchwork ones, this fast-threading machine offers great quality. Sewing long seams and free motion work is made easier with the start/stop function, allowing you to sew without a foot control. Other useful features include an auto bobbin winder and external drop feed. Price: £459

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492

It is so easy to get creative and make unique projects with the Jaguar 492! This model can handle all types of fabric, from silks to soft furnishing materials, with 60 stitch selections, four buttonhole styles, and an auto needle threader to make using it a breeze. The speed control slider allows you to handle more delicate work, plus there’s an extra high presser foot lift. Price: £229

HANDLES ALL FABRICS

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sew PROMOTION

JAGUAR

®

“The only overlocker in its class with a fully accessible threading mechanism”

The Jaguar 487 overlocker is a durable and superbly engineered two, three and four thread overlocker that is a firm favourite with machinists who demand a range of professional-looking seams, hems and finishing edges on their projects. This mid-range, highquality model offers a unique easy-threading system, being the only overlocker where the front of the machine opens fully for easy -access threading and maintenance. What’s more, the differential feed can be adjusted independently to help manage difficult fabrics, whilst the overlocker copes with stretch and sheer fabrics in multiple layers effortlessly.

KEY FEATURES: 3 Fully accessible threading

mechanism 3 Foot pressure regulator 3 Built-in light 3 Two, three or four threads 3 Storage compartment 3 Differential feed 3 Handles multiple layers Price: £379, gursewingmachines.com, 0121 359 5335

SHOP

WHAT’S ON OFFER?

GUR Sewing Machines in Birmingham is a family-owned business that prides itself on providing customers with quality products at the best prices. The company has been providing sewing machines to the public and trade since 1984, and is one of the most respected and trusted sewing machine suppliers in the UK. GUR works with major brands like Jaguar, Brother, Janome, and Pfaff, and stocks a huge range of sewing machines and overlockers, plus a large selection of spares and accessories. Here, you will also find an impressive selection of fabrics, haberdashery and patterns, as well as sewing cabinets, tables and chairs, and iron and steam presses.

of the

3 Friendly service 3 Independent expert advice 3 Over 20,000 haberdashery

MONTH

and craft items in stock 3 Repairs and service department

Visit GUR Sewing Machines, 37 New Summer Street, Birmingham, West Midlands, B19 3QN. Alternatively, visit gursewingmachines.com or call 0121 359 5335.

h s a t s y m ret... t e sec .n

CRAFT 590

The features on this machine make sewing as easy as possible, with 36 stitch selections, easy speed control, a useful start/stop button and a built-in needle threader to enjoy. The detachable storage box can be easily removed, allowing easy access to difficult areas by converting to free-arm mode – which is ideal for sewing sleeves and trouser legs. Price: £279

EDITOR’S PICK!

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Jaguar user and business owner Adam says...

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“My Jaguar overlocker was the best buy I could have ever made for my alteration business. It’s both easy to thread and clean!

I wouldn’t change my workhorse for the world.”

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Your essential guide to quilting CAN YOU QUILT? YES, YOU CAN!

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Quilting is a technique that many of us have preconceptions of… that it’s an intricate and traditional craft, with a following of diehard enthusiasts. Whilst they can certainly be true, you shouldn’t be intimidated. For all of its intricacy, there are very simple quilting projects that look just as striking, and the designs range to the most contemporary and bright quilts. Quilting has a

rich history from countries all over the world, with fascinating stories to tell. In theory, it’s just layers of fabric — usually cushioned by some wadding — that are stitched together to create a motif, or with a pattern created by the needle. So give it a go… enjoy combining different colours and patterns together, and start working on a project that you can pick up as you please, to create something you’ll be proud of.

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tuart Hillard is one of the UK’s leading quilt designers and home decor experts, with more than 100 published patterns to his name. He is also one of our beloved Sew columnists and Dressmaker of the Year judge, rising to success after appearing on the first series of The Great British Sewing Bee. “I’ve been making and designing quilts for over 25 years and without question, my favourite type are scrap quilts. Here are my top tips for successful quilting. Disclaimer: quilting is highly addictive... you have been warned!”

1

When you’re starting out, use good-quality 100% cotton fabrics and make sure they are all the same weight. Quilt-weight cotton fabrics are easy to work with and the choice is almost endless! Choose colours and designs that make your heart sing… when the ingredients are good you are already halfway there!

Give your fabrics a really good press with steam before you cut them… this helps to preshrink your material and removes any pesky wrinkles. I like using spray starch at this stage too – it gives the fabrics a little more stiffness, which generally makes them easier to work with.

Accuracy is key to successful patchwork. If you’re using templates, draw around them and cut on the line – and cut no more than two layers at a time with a rotary cutter. My tool of choice is the AccuQuilt die cutting system, which allows me to work much faster, with complete accuracy, and cut up to six layers at once.

Pins are not just good, but PERFECT for quilters! Buy quality – that’s code for expensive – fine, straight pins. Flat, flowerhead or bridal pins are my favourite. Pin everything, and if you’re not happy with your results, unpick and have another go. Unpicking is not a failure – it’s a learning experience and a chance to get things right.

Go on workshops, buy magazines and read books. Join a group and make new crafty friends... the quilting world is huge, diverse and welcoming. You’ll find possibilities you never even dreamed of!

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Find Stuart’s beautiful quilt designs in Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts. £22.95, pavilionbooks.com

STUART’S ESSENTIAL TOOLS

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CUTTING MAT A self-healing mat will protect your table from the rotary cutter and also has grid lines printed on it to help you measure and square up fabric. 18” x 24” Olfa Gridded Cutting Mat, £16.99.

Essentially a circular blade mounted on a handle; as you push away the blade rotates and cuts through multiple layers of fabric. 45mm Olfa Standard Rotary Cutter, £9.99.

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ROTARY CUTTER

ACCUQUILT GO Die cutting works in much the same way as a cookie cutter, stamping through multiple layers of fabric in one go to create perfect shapes every time. AccuQuilt GO Baby Fabric Cutter Starter Set, £129.99.

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SO GO ON THEN, WHY NOT

sew a quilt... or four!

Get started • Cotton: assorted Juxtaposey prints by Riley Blake, plain coloured, plain white backing • 2oz quilt wadding

Make a simple quilt

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Size: 75cm x 105cm

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Download and print the triangle template at sewmag. co.uk/templates. Make a diamond template by flipping it on the dashed line, adding a 5mm seam allowance to the outer sides, but not the dashed-lined side.

Use it to cut ten diamond shapes from 10cm wide strips of eight print fabrics.

Lay the diamonds out on a flat surface to make rows of the same pattern. Trim them in half where they sit at the edges of the layout, moving the cut half to the opposite edge. Begin stitching the diamonds together in strips, taking care not to stretch the bias cut edges when sewing. Once all the strips are sewn, stitch them together to make a panel, lining up the seams accurately. Press the quilt top.

Join several 2.5cm strips of yellow cotton end-to end and sew an overlapping border around the quilt top. Cut wadding and white cotton backing fabric slightly larger than the quilt top and pin together. Topstitch along the seam lines and around the inside of the border before trimming the excess flush with the border.

Cut several 2.5cm strips of dark pink cotton and join end to end. Use these strips to bind the edges of the quilt, sewing to the top edge first before folding in and under, and slip stitching to the back.

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

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Dream

MACHINE

QUILTER’S CHOICE

Especially perfect for quilting, the MC6700P is playful, powerful, spacious, streamlined and steadfast… even at high speeds of up to 1200SPM! The model has many user-friendly features with beautiful 9mm wide decorative stitches that will impress even the most demanding stitcher.

RRP £1599, janome.co.uk

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Get started • Cotton: ten printed fat quarters, 1.5m square of white cotton sheeting • Lightweight quilt wadding, 1.5m square

Cutting guide Note: label the ten fat quarters A-J 8cm squares: cut three each from B and D, six each from A, C, E and J, nine each from F, G and I, and 12 from H 8cm x 15cm rectangles: cut three each from C and E, six each from A and G, and nine each from B, D, F, H, I and J 15cm squares: cut three each of A, B, D and F, and six each of C and E 5mm seam allowance used throughout.

Sew a patchwork quilt Size: 1.27m square

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Cut the fabrics according to the cutting guide, then arrange as for the diagrams (right), making three of each configuration. Stitch the pieces right sides together, beginning with the smaller squares, then joining the rectangles and larger squares to assemble the blocks.

Press all seam allowances open.

Press the blocks and pin right sides facing up onto nine 43cm squares of lightweight quilt wadding.

Machine quilt by sewing through both layers along all of the seam lines. Add extra embellishment to some of the individual pieces by quilting parallel lines, diagonals or squares over the surface.

Lay out the quilted blocks in a 3 x 3 square on a flat surface so no two pieces of the same fabric touch. Pin and stitch the blocks together to make a 1.27m square panel.

Pin the quilt top to white cotton sheeting, trim the excess fabric and put this to one side.

Stitch the quilt top to the backing fabric by sewing along the four main seams that joined the nine blocks together. Cut the excess sheeting into 4cm-wide strips.

Pin and stitch a strip to one edge of the quilt top. Tuck over to the back, then fold under 1cm on the raw edge and slip stitch to the backing fabric. Repeat around, folding under the short ends at the corners to neaten.

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We used the Reminisce collection from Art Gallery Fabrics.

For stockists, visit hantex.co.uk/agf

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Get started • Cotton: blue, yellow, floral • Wadding

Cutting guide

From blue fabric: cut two 7cm squares and 24 7cm x 12cm rectangles From yellow fabric: cut four 7cm squares and 20 7cm x 12cm rectangles From floral fabric: cut four 7cm squares and 20 7cm x12cm rectangles From coordinating fabric: cut four 4cm x 70cm strips and one 70cm square

Whip up a baby blanket Size: 62cm square

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Lay out six rectangles for the bottom row in this order: (yellow, floral, blue) twice. Join them together at the short ends and press the seams right. For the next row, start with a yellow square then five rectangles: floral, blue, yellow, floral, blue. Join the shapes as before, then sew to the first row.

Press the seams down.

Make a third row of six rectangles: (floral, blue, yellow) twice. Sew this row

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Need more wadding? Get 20%* off ALL Vlieseline products with the code 20SewVli at ladysewandsew.co.uk

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*Valid 14th December to 12th January on Vlieseline products at ladysewandsew.co.uk

6mm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

to the second strip as before. Create eight more rectangle rows, alternating the fabrics in each one to create the diagonal chevron stripe design across the surface of the quilt, as pictured.

Lay the backing square face-down, place the quilt wadding on top, then the finished patchwork quilt right side up. Pin the layers evenly across it, then quilt by hand or machine, stitching 4mm from both sides of each seam line.

Trim the quilt edges. Press under a 1cm turning along one long edge of each 4cm x 70cm binding strip.

With right sides together and raw edges matching, pin one binding strip to one quilt edge so there is equal excess at each end. Stitch 1cm from the edge. Turn the binding to the wrong side, enclosing the raw edges. Bind the other three edges in the same way.

Trim the excess to 1cm, then press the ends in to neaten before turning the binding to the back. Pin, then slip stitch all of the folded edges down.

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Get started

• Cotton: turquoise, yellow, pink, white, backing fabric • Stuffing • Wadding

Cutting guide

Note: the following is based on a 24-dot circle quilt 10½ diameter circles: cut four from yellow fabric, eight from pink fabric, 12 from turquoise fabric, 24 from white fabric 14½” square: cut 24 from white fabric ¼” seam allowance used throughout.

out through it. Press the edges flat and stuff the circle.

Repeat to make 24 coloured dots, then set aside. Pin and sew the 24 white squares to create a 4 x 6 quilt top. Sandwich the quilt top with the wadding and backing fabric, then quilt along the squares. Hand-stitch each stuffed dot to the centre of each quilted square, arranging them in your desired order.

Join 2” wide strips end-toend and bind the quilt to complete it.

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Stitch a candy dots quilt Size: 561/2” x 841/2”

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Place a coloured dot circle and a white lining circle right sides together and pin. Sew the entire circle closed. Clip the curves of the seam allowance to smooth. Cut an opening centrally in the white lining circle only, and turn the entire circle right sides

Find more fun projects like this in Sew Adorkable by Samara Khaja.

From £20, ctpub.com

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sew PEOPLE Channel the 70s with Orla Kiely’s 100% cotton fabric. £18 per metre, dotmaison.com

Loop record case, £30, magpieline.com I grew up in the 70s, where everything was psychedelic, geometric or brown!

At home with...

© Photographed by Rachel Whiting.

STUART HILLARD Bring the colours that make you happy through to 2018!

It might have something to do with the long nights and short days, the turning of one year, or even the increased amount of time I’m spending with family and friends, but at this point in the year I am always at my most reflective. I’m sure I’m not alone there!

I think about the past a lot – especially now that there are so many years behind me(!)

– but I also love to look to the future and plan exciting new ventures, travels, and crafty endeavours of course. I get to spend lots of time with my family during the holidays, so the old family photos inevitably always come out. I was born just as the 60s were ending, and the changes that have happened within my lifetime are hard to believe. Looking at old photos, I can’t believe the length of our shirt collars, the size of my hair, or the clashing colours and patterns we surrounded ourselves with during the 1970s. Those years were all about pattern on pattern; the bigger and bolder, the better! Geometric wallpapers were all the rage and carpets were a mixture of every colour – so long as it was bright, or brown. As a young child we lived in a house with no indoor bathroom, so trips to the outside loo were done as quickly and infrequently as possible. By the 1980s we had moved to a much more modern house and had a shiny new avocado green bathroom suite – we felt about as stylish as it was possible to feel!

The question is, did you have an avocado bathroom suite? and settle. It’s no wonder then that so many decorating trends in recent years have focussed on feeling contented. Before embarking on your next sewing project, why not take a minute or so to think about the colour – and if it will continue to make you smile?

Fashions come and go and inevitably come full circle, I find. To me, the ‘modern retro’ trend feels a lot like my childhood – just with much better plumbing!

TINGED WITH NOSTALGIA Just like pattern is very much ‘of its time’, the same is true of colours or at least colour combinations.

Orange and brown was the combo of the 1970s, and that avocado bathroom really was the difference between hot or not. The 80s were all about primary colours mixed with white and black.

“Just like pattern is very much ‘of its time’, the same is true of colours, or at least colour combinations”

TRY YOUR LUCK Two very dear friends of mine are getting married on New Year’s Eve – a perfect time to start a new life together! I’m planning a special dinner with a Mexican theme to celebrate their new year nuptials. In Mexico, families decorate homes and parties in colours that represent their dreams and aspirations for the coming year. Red encourages a general improvement of wellbeing, life circumstances and love, whilst yellow encourages better job prospects, and green almost always guarantees improved finances. If you desire better health, white’s the colour! Another tradition is to make a list of all your regrets or upsets over the past 12 months and then, just before midnight, you throw the list into a fire.

What a perfect way to symbolise the end of the old and start of the new. Regrets should always be left in the past, once they’re learned from. Whatever you’re doing this new year, I hope you surround yourself with the colours that make you happy!

Neon was in and lava lamps were out, whilst the combination of chrome and smoked glass were essential in any self-respecting bachelor pad. The 90s and early noughties were very beige as we all stripped back our personalities and neutralised the homes we lived in. We were only staying long enough to turn a profit so we could sell and move on up the chain; no one seemed to put down roots, and ‘house doctoring’ became the thing to do. A lack of growth in the housing market no doubt made most of us stay put for many more years than we’d intended, and so gradually we learned to put down roots, fill our homes with the colours and decorations that reflect our personalities,

Till next month!

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You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 674 or visit stuarthillard.com 59

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WORK BOKHARA COUCHING TO MAKE

Susie Johns’ BABY BIBS

Couching is a kind of embroidery work where threads sit on the surface of the fabric and are anchored down with small stitches.

Bokhara couching is a solid stitch that can be used to fill any shape or size, whilst ensuring the work lies flat with no long strands that might snag. It’s been used here to decorate cotton bibs with motifs depicting a baby’s first foods. Why not make all six of them as a gift for a new arrival?

Get started • Pastel cotton, 25cm square • White towelling, 25cm square • 1.4m bias binding • DMC embroidery thread: pink (962), leaf green (3347), red (666), brown (839), light tan (680), grass green (905), jade (911), pale green (3348), cream (3078), yellow (307), orange (970)

Cutting guide Bib: cut one from plain cotton

Size 20cm x 23cm

Sew a cute bib

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Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Draw the outline of the bib on plain cotton, then trace your chosen fruit or vegetable plus the accompanying lettering onto the shape. Draw lines across the motif where indicated on the template, to use as a guide for the couching stitches.

Place the fabric in an embroidery hoop, then thread a crewel needle with three strands. Fill in the large shapes (see the Bokhara couching panel, below).

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Make the ties long so that they can be fastened around the baby’s neck as they grow

Bokhara couching Unlike most other forms of couching, Bokhara uses only one thread for both the laid and couching stitches. If you prefer, you can draw the outline of your motif, then add parallel guidelines for the couching stitches: you will be working over the laid stitches at each point where these parallel lines intersect.

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Bring the needle up through the fabric just outside the outline (A) and back down on the opposite side (B), once again just outside the outline.

Bring the needle out again at C.

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Insert the needle at D, take the thread over the long stitch and back down through the fabric at E. The long stitch will be held in place with a slanting stitch.

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Work another couching stitch, inserting the needle at F to lay the thread and bringing it out at G, ready to make a slanting stitch.

Insert the needle at H and bring it out at I to make the next slanting stitch.

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Insert the needle at J and bring it out at K, ready to lay another thread. The catching stitches will be staggered, enabling them to lie neatly and create an attractive pattern. Continue in the same way to fill the shape.

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free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

For the avocado start with the stone and for the pear start with the pips, then fill in the rest of the shapes. Outline the avocado and pear with two rows of split stitch. Work the lettering in chain stitch (or other if desired) above the motif.

When the embroidery is complete, remove the fabric from the hoop, place face-down on a folded towel, and press on the reverse to ‘set’ the stitching. Place the embroidered piece face-up on a towelling square.

Pin all round, then tack the two layers together, 6mm from the outline. Cut out the bib shape.

Sew bias binding around the outer edge of the bib. Fold the remaining binding in half to find the centre, and pin this to the middle of the curved neckline at the top. Bind the neckline, then fold the long ends of the bias binding in half lengthwise and slip stitch the folded edges together to form ties.

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FABRIC EDIT Abloom Fusion from Art Gallery Fabrics

Vintage Rush

It’s the start of a new year and here at Sew HQ our thoughts are already turning to spring. Abloom Fusion by Art Gallery Fabrics will brighten up grey days with a selection of pretty wild flower prints in a mix of blues, pinks, yellows and greens, reminiscent of leisurely walks in the great British countryside. The sun will be out again before we know it...

Daisy A6 notebook, £1.95, dotcom giftshop.com

Naivety

Bohemian Charms Wedgewood Wonderlust bowl in crimson jewel, £35, amara.com Summer Meadow oven glove, £4.95, dotcomgiftshop.com Ladylike Lucky Rose straps, £15 each, cathkidston.com

Painted Garden sugar bowl, £10, colliercampbell.com He Loves Me

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Liberty Betsy cosmetic bag, £21.95, amara.com

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Ditsy Garden ring binder, £3.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

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Visit hantex.co.uk/agf to find your nearest Art Gallery Fabrics stockist.

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sew gifts

Make a pincushion

ORGANISE YOUR SEWING BOX WITH A

patchwork pincushion

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Cut the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Stitch the cream square to the floral rectangle.

Press the seam towards the print, layer with wadding and lining, then tack.

Get started

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Mark a line down the centre of the rectangle, then add lines 5mm apart either side. Hand or machine quilt along the lines, then remove the tacking stitches.

• Fabric: cream, floral and lining cotton, Essex linen (optional) • Wadding, 7.5cm x 20.5cm • Toy stuffing • Pearl cotton thread, size 12

A pincushion is essential in any stitcher’s armoury, preventing pricked fingers and keeping your sharps in one place. This pretty patchwork version is a great stashbuster and allows you to try some simple quilting, with the option to add a needle flap.

Size 6.5cm x 16.5cm

Cutting guide

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Trim the lining and wadding to the same size as the patchwork. To add a needle flap, fold a 6.5cm square of linen in half diagonally twice, forming a triangle with all the raw edges on one side. Pin this side to the quilted patchwork.

Cream fabric: cut one 6.5cm square Floral fabric: cut one 6.5cm x 13cm rectangle Lining fabric: cut one 7.5cm x 20.5cm rectangle Linen: cut one 7.5cm x 20cm rectangle

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Pin the patchwork right side down onto a 7.5cm x 20.5cm panel of linen. Start machine stitching at the centre of one long side of the patchwork.

get the

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Continue sewing around, working two stitches across each corner for a crisper finish and leaving a 2.5cm gap for turning.

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Trim the excess backing fabric in line with the patchwork and snip the corners off. Turn the pincushion right sides out. Stuff firmly and slip stitch the gap closed.

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Find more pretty projects in Sew Layer Cake Quilts & Gifts

by Carolyn Forster. £12.99, searchpress.com

Get started

RAID YOUR STASH TO CREATE HANDY

• Plain and patterned cotton • Lightweight wadding • Lightweight fusible interfacing • Zips: 20cm, 35cm

cosmetic pouches

Cutting guide

COSMETIC BAG Front and back: cut two 25cm x 37cm pieces each from patterned and plain cotton, and wadding Sides: cut two 8cm x 20cm pieces each from patterned and plain cotton, and wadding Zip ends: cut two 6cm x 8cm pieces from plain cotton STRIPED CASE Main: cut one 21cm x 31cm panel from outer fabric, fusible interfacing and lining Strip: cut one 3cm x 21cm piece from two patterned cottons Zip end: cut two 2cm x 4cm strips from outer fabric SPOTTY POUCH Main: cut two 20cm x 26cm pieces from outer fabric, fusible interfacing and lining Tab: cut two 3cm x 8cm pieces from contrasting fabric

This bag trio by Corinne Bradd are all useful projects that are good to have to hand and promise to make you a whiz at inserting zips. With three sizes to choose from, you can pop the smaller pouches into handbags to keep small items together, whilst the larger version can carry toiletries on trips away.

5mm seam allowance used throughout.

Make a cosmetic bag

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Cut the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Place the front piece onto wadding, right side facing up, then tack. Lay a zip face-down along the top edge.

Place the lining over it, right side down, then sew along 5mm from the teeth. Turn out to reveal the zip, then topstitch 5mm from the original seam.

Repeat with the back panels, securing the fastening on the other side. Place the pieces right side up. Turn the long sides of the zip end panels to the middle and glue, then fold them in half to enclose the raw edges. Sew the tabs to each zip end, matching the raw edges so they lay over it.

Pin the outer and wadding pieces right sides together, then sew the bottom seam. Repeat for the lining, then turn right sides out.

Pin the lining, wadding and outer fabric for both sets of side panels together, right sides up. Taper both edges so that one end on each side measures 4cm wide. Tack the layers together and pin the short side to the zip end, matching the raw edges.

Repeat for the other side, then sew them in place, leaving a 5mm margin at each end.

Position and sew the long sides of the tapered panel to the bag, then sew the bottom edge to the remaining depth of the bag to create a flat bottom. Trim the seam allowances to 3mm and use zigzag stitch to reinforce. Cut 2.5cm-wide strips on the bias from lining to make binding. Turn the bag right sides out.

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Sew a stripy case

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Place the strips right sides together and sew along one long edge. Open out and press, then pin the panel face-down onto the main outer piece, matching the raw edges. Sew the opposite long edge of the panel to the main piece. Unpin, flip the panel over, then press. Fold under 5mm on the remaining raw edge, pin, then slip stitch to the outer.

Fuse interfacing to the reverse of the outer fabric. Place the zip end panels face-down at each end of a 20cm zip. Sew across each end, 1cm in, then fold the fabric back for a neat finish. Lay the zip face-down along the top edge of the outer fabric and the lining right side down over it. Sew together, 5mm from the top edge of the teeth. Open the layers to

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reveal the zip, then topstitch 5mm from the original seam.

Repeat on the other side of the zip; this will create a tube, so open the zip slightly before stitching. Turn the tube out and flatten so the zip is 3.5cm down from the fold. Pin and sew the side seams together. Trim the seam allowance to 3mm, then use zigzag stitch to reinforce and neaten.

Bind the seams with 2.5cm strips of lining fabric.

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Stitch a spotty pouch

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Fuse interfacing to the back of the main fabric panel. Lay a 20cm zip face-down along the top edge, then the lining facedown over it. Pin and sew together, 5mm from the top edge of the teeth. Open the layers to reveal

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the zip, then topstitch 5mm from the original seam. Repeat on the other side, making sure you open the zip slightly before stitching.

Fold the tabs to the middle and glue, then in half to enclose the raw edges.

Tack the tabs to each end of the zip, matching the raw edges. Turn the tube inside out and flatten so the zip lays in the centre. Pin and sew the sides seams together, then trim the seam allowance to 3mm and zigzag stitch.

While the bag is inside out, bring the ends of each seam to the centre to create points. Hand-sew the points to the centre of the seam allowance at both ends, then turn the bag out. A natural pleat should form down each side.

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sew gifts

20% DISCOUNT!

*Valid 14th December to 12th January on Vlieseline products at ladysewandsew.co.uk

Hurrah! We’ve got an exclusive 20%* discount of Vlieseline products at Lady Sew and Sew with the code 20SewVli, so Vanessa, the lady behind the sewing shop, shares her three favourite products with us.

321 SOLU-FLEECE STYLE-VIL “Use this backer to ‘make’ fabric – sandwich yarn, ribbons and fabric scraps between Solu-fleece and stitch all over, then put it in water and watch the fleece disappear to produce your own textile art.” £4 per metre.

“Vlieseline isn’t just restricted to dressmaking! There is a product to help create a professional finish for practically all crafting projects – such as bags, book covers and quilts. What I love most about the products is that they are inexpensive but still good quality!”

Vanessa Tomlin of Lady Sew and Sew

STYLE-VIL “This is a foam stabiliser which is great for making all manner of bags. It is non-fusible but has a soft fuzzy layer that 'grips' fabrics so they maintain their softness, but still have the stability to stand up on their own! It also helps add definition to stitches when quilting.” £11 per metre.

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MULTI-BAG KIT “This multi-bag kit contains all of the stabilisers you need to create a carry bag that converts into an ironing mat! It’s assembled by mostly ironing, with very limited sewing.” £10.

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CLAIM YOUR DISCOUNT AT LADYSEWANDSEW.CO.UK

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Samuel Agatha

Emmanuel Maryam

Wilhelmina Thanks to Sophie Kirk-Harris for helping us name our mascots!

4 WAYS WITH

RILEY BLAKE

Juxtaposey

We’re loving the Juxtaposey collection from Riley Blake here at Crafty HQ – it’s got everything we could ever want, from vibrant colours and paisley-inspired floral motifs to pretty geometrics – and llamas! As soon as it arrived on our desks, we just had to pass it on to Sew’s Corinne Bradd to see what she would create – as always, she didn’t disappoint. Her tea towels and pot holders will brighten up your kitchen, while the hanging storage pockets can be used to store spice jars, sewing supplies or anything else you like. As for the llama bunting, it will look fab in a nursery, child’s or... adult’s bedroom, ahem.

Turn overleaf and get started!

Get started • Cotton: assorted prints and plain blue • Blue cotton canvas • White cotton towelling • Felt wadding • Toy stuffing • Medium weight fusible interfacing • Dark pink and yellow bias binding • Hook and loop tape • 30cm wooden dowel • Embroidery thread

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free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Stuffing the limbs and head can be fiddly – a knitting needle will help push it into these narrow areas!

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Stitch stylish tea towels Size: 33cm x 53cm

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Download and print the hanger template at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Cut a 38cm x 45cm rectangle of white towelling. Turn in and oversew both long edges and one short side to prevent fraying. Pleat and pin the remaining short edge to bring it down to 14cm wide.

Use the template to cut two hanger shapes from printed cotton fabrics, adding a 5mm seam allowance around, then pin them right sides together. Sew around the edges, leaving the bottom flat side open. Clip the curves, turn right sides out and press.

Topstitch around the seam, 2mm from the edges.

Fold in the raw edges of the flat bottom and slide the pleated end of the towel inside by 1cm. Re-pin to hold the folded edges parallel on either side of the pleats and topstitch.

Cut a small square of hook and loop tape and slip stitch one half to the top of the hanger and the other half to the bottom centre so the towel can be looped through a drawer handle.

free template download

Craft fun llama bunting

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Size: llama: 10cm x 19cm

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Download and print the llama template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Trace onto the reverse of printed cotton, adding a 5mm seam allowance around, and cut out. Pin face-down onto a 15cm x 20cm plain turquoise cotton rectangle, then repeat to make six llamas or more, depending on your desired length of bunting.

Sew along the drawn line, leaving a 5cm gap in the back of the leg and using the excess backing fabric to help

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2 Practise pleating on a small scale!

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‘“Doll needles are extra strong and thin, designed for soft sculpting facial features on toys and attaching eyes and limbs. This is ideal for taking the bunting line through each individual llama. £2.40, amazon.co.uk”

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Pretty pleats To pleat your towel, fold it in half lengthwise, then take the edge of the top layer at one end and fold it back on itself by 3cm. Pin in place, then pleat the whole top layer in the same way.

Continue to pleat the rest of the top edge in this way, until it is your desired length – unpinning and adjusting until happy.

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manoeuvre around the curves of the seam. Trim away the excess backing, then clip the curves.

Turn the llamas right sides out and fill firmly with toy stuffing, using a knitting needle to push it into the head and limbs. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip stitch closed. Cut a long piece of embroidery thread and use an extra long sewing or doll needle to pass it through each animal, knotting close to the body as you do so to stop the llamas running up and down the line.

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Create hanging pockets

Sew handy pot holders

Size: 31cm x 49.5cm

Size: 15.5cm diameter

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Cut twelve 11cm x 14cm pieces of fusible interfacing, then twelve 13cm x 16cm rectangles from printed cotton.

Iron the interfacing centrally to the wrong side of each fabric piece. Fold the excess fabric over the interfacing and press.

Topstitch one long edge of each piece – this will be the top of the pocket.

Take each pocket piece and pin a small pleat 1.5cm in from both the left and right-hand sides to reduce the overall width to 10cm. Cut two 32cm x 50cm rectangles of blue cotton canvas. Lay one rectangle out flat and arrange the pockets on it in a 3 x 4 grid as pictured, leaving 2cm clearance at the edges.

Pin the pockets in place and topstitch the three folded edges to the canvas. Remove all the pins before placing the other plain rectangle on top and sewing around the sides and bottom edge. Turn the hanging right side out, press, then topstitch the seams.

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Cut a 16cm diameter circle from felt wadding and two different cotton prints. Sandwich the wadding between the two fabrics, right sides out, and pin together.

Use a 3mm straight stitch and a quilting guide bar set to 2cm to quilt a diamond design over the surface of the layers.

Cut a 10cm length of coordinating bias binding and fold it in half lengthways. Slip stitch the edges together to make piping and fold into a loop. Bind the edges of the quilted disc with the same colour binding, tucking the ends of the loop under the binding before it is stitched in place.

Cut a 6cm x 55cm strip of fabric and fold it in half lengthways. Fold in 5mm on both long raw edges and press. Slip 1cm of the top of the hanging inside the centre of the folded strip and pin. Topstitch the length of the folded strip to make a tube on either side of the secured canvas. Trim a length of dowel to 30cm and slip it inside the tube to sit over the hanging.

Loop the ends of the tube over to the back of the hanging, fold in the raw edges and slip stitch to the back.

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Beat the heat For extra safety, use a heat resistant wadding such as Insul-bright, which is designed specifically for making items such as oven gloves and pot holders. ÂŁ6 per metre, ladysewandsew.co.uk

These pockets will hold two standard spice jars.

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These pot holders are reversible so they look good on both sides!

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A LUXE TOUCH Cascade collection by Prestigious Textiles, from £21.99 per metre, prestigious.co.uk

Having the control to sew your own homewares opens up a whole world of plush possibilities, often for a fraction of the price you’d pay for shop-bought versions. Inject your living space with a regal feel this year by seeking out luxe textures and soft shades with a hint of shimmer. It’s a sure-fire way of transforming your home into a calm spa-like haven that you can retire to upon an evening and look forward to curling up in! For a subtle yet sophisticated palette, seek out shades of silver, grey, gold and multiple shades of tranquil blue hues.

Bargain

Coral fleec blue melange, £7.75 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

FABRIC BUY!

MARIE PARRY, PRESTIGIOUS TEXTILES

JOSEPHINE HAGGER, STOFF & STIL

“There’s a big foliage trend this season, from wispy ferns to delicate leaf trails, which is captured in our beautiful Cascade collection.

With soft duck egg shades through to richer marine colours, it’s a winning look for your home.”

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JENNY WARD, SEW EDITOR

“This beautiful double-sided fur fleece is perfect for fashion and interiors alike, from simple cosy scarves, luxe coat linings, dressing gowns, snuggly gilets and trendy capes, to easy-peasy throws and blankets or a cosy cushion. The list is endless!”

“This beautiful shade of eggshell blue is given an extra touch of luxury with metallic threads that add a subtle shimmer. It would look great made up into cushions and other soft furnishings for your bedroom, living room or study.”

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Cloud9 Glimmer solids. For stockists visit hantex.co.uk/cloud9

Double-sided chevron fur fleece in grey, £15.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

“Our coral fleece is an extra-soft fabric that is voluminous and stretchy. It has a high heat insulating effect and the material is both robust and durable; it’s very versatile and a great choice for throws, blankets and pillows.”

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Build on the lush feel through your choice of lighting

prestigious.co.uk

Add gold, metallic or light wooden accents

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Look out for fabrics that are textured and embossed

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30/11/2017 11:18

the BOOKSHELF our favourite sewing titles this month A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO OVERLOCKERS, SERGERS & COVERLOCKERS by Clémentine Lubin Get to know cover stitch machines like the back of your hand with this handy guide. It explains and helps you master every function and application through 50 bite-sized lessons accompanied by step-by-step photographs, plus handy tips and notes. You'll also find 15 projects from make up bags and pillows to a Breton top, dress and hooded jacket.

Search Press, £12.99, searchpress.com

DESIGNING CLOTHES WITH THE FLAT PATTERN METHOD by Sara Alm Would you love to design your own garments or maybe even start your own pattern label some day? Begin by adjusting the waistbands, necklines, darts, seams and other features of commercial patterns, then design your own unique creations using the skills you've learned. You'll find the step-by-step images and labelled diagrams are as clear as an in-person lesson.

Creative Publishing International, £16.99, quartoknows.com

SUPERHERO SEWING by Lane Huerta This heroic project book will help you create a really special dress-up wardrobe and allow your little one's imagination to run free, should they want to be a magician, pirate, mystical monarch, woodland creature or superhero (with the family pet as their trusty sidekick). All patterns are rated as no-sew, easy or intermediate-level and there's even a pouch of them all in full size.

Creative Publishing International, £16.99, quartoknows.com

MADE FOR BABY by Ayda Algin Whether you're preparing for your own arrival or sewing for a loved one, this charming book has all the baby stitching inspiration you could need. Make practical bibs, changing and place mats, or create a bedroom decoration or toy that will be cherished forever. The clear instructions and images make the easy projects both quick and enjoyable.

Tuva Publishing, £14.95, tuvapublishing.com

FAT QUARTER GIFTS by Jemima Schlee The latest in the fantastic Fat Quarter series is sure to impress. Beginner to intermediate stitchers can whip up kids' aprons, lined scarves, glasses pouches and much more from remnants and small measures of material.

This book presents 25 fantastic ways to give beautiful handmade presents without spending too much time or money.

GMC Publications, £12.99, thegmcgroup.com

QUILTING BASICS by Michael Caputo This book is for anyone who thinks that creating a quilt is too long or difficult. It takes you from patchwork novice to accomplished quilter with 12 workshops that teach you everything you need to know about the key techniques.

You'll enjoy sewing table runners, make up bags, wall hangings and a sampler bed quilt to show off your skills.

Cico Books, £14.99, rylandpeters.com

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THE GEOMETRY OF HAND-SEWING by Natalie Chanin Make learning new stitches as easy as child's play with this instruction manual to hand stitching, which is based on geometric grids – with hole-punched practice cards at the back. Each stitch is described really clearly with diagrams and photographs, plus information on basic embroidery stitches and variations is included to make your work more interesting.

Abrams Publishing, £17.99, abramsbooks.com

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TURN TWO FAT QUARTERS INTO

nesting trays If you’re joining us in our drive to be more organised in 2018, this project might tick off a few of your crafty resolutions (read some of ours on p34). Whether you want to use up your scraps, revamp unsightly storage or simply stop losing tools in the middle of using them, Chloe Hailwood’s easy-peasy fabric trays will serve you well. It’s also really simple to scale this project up or down to suit your fabric scraps and what you need it for.

Get started • Two fat quarters • Medium weight fusible interfacing, 55cm x 90cm

Size Note: all of the boxes have a height of 3cm Small: 12cm square, Medium: 17cm square, Large: 22cm square 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

Stitch some storage

1

Iron interfacing onto the reverse of two fat quarters, then cut out a 20cm, 25cm and 30cm square from each one. Pin the two 30cm squares right sides together then stitch around, leaving a 10cm gap on one side for turning.

Measure 1.5cm from a corner on each edge and mark. Stitch straight across the corner between these points then trim the seam allowance to 5mm. Repeat for the other corners. Turn right sides out, press, then slip stitch the gap closed. Topstitch around, 5mm from the edge, using contrasting thread.

Fold the square in half diagonally and pin. Make a few oversew stitches by hand, 3cm in from each corner. Repeat for the remaining corners. Follow the process again to make the small and medium trays from the two 20cm and two 25cm squares.

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Oversewing is when you keep passing a needle over the edge of fabric continually in the same direction, working the stitches closely together.

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Get started • Cotton: plains and prints • Pink script fabric, 75cm (1.14m wide) • Blue print fabric, 25cm (1.14m wide) • Foam interfacing, 1m • Iron-on band interfacing, 7cm wide • Lightweight fusible interfacing, 25cm square • Bottom reinforcing mesh • Two navy zips, 18cm • Two silver D-rings, 2.5cm • Two silver swivel clips, 2.5cm • Silver bag slider, 2.5cm • Blue plastic snap fastener

Size 10cm x 35cm x 37cm (plus strap)

COMBINE VIBRANT FABRICS TO MAKE A QUILTED

shoulder bag This stylish bag by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier combines a variety of techniques, from patchwork and quilting to inserting box zips and pocket linings. You'll also be making your own bias binding (although you can use ready-made to save time) which you'll use to finish the edges for a professional look.

Cutting guide

sew

Note: cut main bag from patchwork panel (see step 1) Main bag: cut two on the fold from fabric Bag top: cut two on the fold from fabric Bag lining: cut two on the fold from fabric Zip box lining: cut two 26cm x 32cm pieces from lining fabric Straps: cut two 7cm x 185cm strips from fabric

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

5mm seam allowance used except where otherwise stated.

Stitch a carrier MAKE THE FRONT & BACK

1

Cut five 9cm x 27cm strips from different cotton prints, then sew together along the long edges to form a 26cm x 40cm panel for the bag front. Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then cut the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Stitch one of the bag top pieces to the panel, then press.

Make 80cm of straight-grain binding from navy fabric.

Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the bag top where the handle cutout will be. Round off the corners, sew the whole bag front to a piece of foam interfacing using a 2.5mm seam allowance around the outside edge, then trim to neaten.

Quilt alongside each of the patchwork seams, then sew the binding to the join between the strip panel and bag top. Use the template to mark the handle centrally. Sew around, then cut inside the line, leaving a 5mm seam allowance. Repeat steps 1-3 to make up the back panel.

2

All of the fabrics used for this bag are from the Happy Home collection by Art Gallery Fabrics

3

STITCH THE LINING

4

Iron a vertical centre crease along both lining pieces, then measure 20cm down from the top in the centre of the wrong side and draw a 1cm x 18cm zip box horizontally. Draw a

second line across the middle, stopping 1cm from each end to draw angled lines to each corner – this will be the cutting line.

Pin each bag lining and zip box lining piece right sides together, sew around the outer box shape, then cut. ‘Post’ the lining through the hole. Press.

Use double-sided tape to temporarily stick a zip on the lining side of the hole.

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Topstitch around the box to secure the zip in place. Bring the long piece of the lining up and align the top edge. Sew the sides together and the top edge in place – do not sew the sides to the outer piece of fabric.

Bring the end of the lining up so that it is above the zip and even with the other part. Repeat the process to make up the other pocket.

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SEW THE STRAP & TABS

7

Fuse band interfacing onto the two strap strips. Fold in half and topstitch along the length on both sides. Cut 20cm off one end of one for the tabs and put aside. Secure the strap end to the centre bar of a slider.

Take the other end through a swivel clip, back through the bag slider and then to the other swivel

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Get the

Book clip, then secure it. Cut the 20cm tab section in half, fold each piece in half again, then insert a D-ring in each one.

ASSEMBLE IT TOGETHER

8

Pin a lining piece to an outer panel, right sides together. Sew, cut around the handle hole, then ‘post’ the lining through it, as for the zip.

Topstitch around the handle hole. Repeat for the other outer and lining pieces.

9

Place the lining pieces right sides together and sew the two sides and bottom. Cut a 4cm square out of each corner, then pinch and pin each one together, so that the side and bottom seams match. Make sure that there is no puckering on the right side, then sew across the corner.

Sew the outer pieces right sides together, with a tab in each side, 2.5cm from the top edge. Box the

10

corners to match the lining. Turn the bag right sides out through the gap by the handle hole. Cut a piece of mesh to fit the base. Hot glue it in place then add wadding on top.

Join 3.5cm wide strips of solid navy cut on the bias end-to-end to form a 102cm bias strip. Tack the lining to the top curve of the bag and bind that edge. Install a plastic snap fastener underneath the handle hole.

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This project is from The Bag Boutique

by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier. £14.99, searchpress.com

enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways THREE STITCHY SHOWS!

Win tickets for yourself and a friend to attend the Sewing for Pleasure show at the NEC in Birmingham on 15th-18th March, worth £28. It also includes entry to the Fashion & Embroidery and the Creative Crafts shows happening next door... a 3-in-1 hub of stitchy excitement! Visit ichfevents.co.uk We have 15 pairs of tickets to give away. To enter, tick ICHF

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Vlieseline pre-packs

Get your hands on three of Habico’s handy Vlieseline pre-packs, worth £18 – Lamifix Glossy is a water-resistant coating that can be fused to any fabric, Thermolan will add a layer of protection to oven gloves, whilst Style Vil provides protective cushioning to laptop and glasses cases.

Browse the range at ladysewandsew. co.uk We have six bundles to give away. To enter, tick VLIESELINE

6 to win!

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PORTOFINO PAIR

Gütermann’s Portofino collection is inspired by the Mediterranean, combining traditional feathers, roses and hydrangeas together with contemporary geometric motifs. Worth £30, this prize also includes a pack of seven coordinating sew-all threads. Contact gutermann @stockistenquiries.co.uk We have three sets to give away. To enter, tick PORTOFINO

WIN

with sew

£1,430+

Rotating mat

Rotating cutting mats make it so much easier to accurately cut multiple layers of fabric. Trimit’s self-healing one has a non-slip base that can be locked in place when required. We’re also including a sewing kit to get your little ones on their way to stitching for life.

Email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk for stockists.

We have three bundles to give away. To enter, tick TRIMITS

3 to win!

The

of stitchy prizes to be won!

sew seal of approval

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Learn something new

Fancy learning a new technique this year, but not sure where to begin?

We’ll send you one stitchy book at random from the great choice pictured – we promise you’ll love whichever one you receive!

We have 12 books to give away. To enter, tick BOOK 78

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enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways FOR THE LOVE OF SEWING

3 to win!

It’s never too early to start stitching for Valentine’s Day! Embellish your romantic projects with Berisfords’ ribbons and heart-shaped yo-yos in two sizes with these handy makers by Clover, who are also supplying handy needle threaders.

Visit berisfords-ribbons.co.uk and contact clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have three bundles to give away.

To enter, tick VALENTINE

Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk /giveaways to win big today!

Wear the trousers

Sew Over It’s online class, Ultimate Guide to Sewing and Fitting Trousers, will teach you how to make the best bottoms you’ve ever worn. It’s suitable for advanced beginners, starting with the relaxed-fit Carrie before moving on to the Ultimate Trousers – both patterns are included. You’ll learn all the skills and tricks to make you a pro – and all at your own pace! Find out more at sewoverit.co.uk We have three online classes to give away.

To enter, tick TROUSERS

Worth

£45!

FREE FABRIC!

Love these fabrics? Win them all – that’s over six metres of fabric!

Each of the light to medium weight woven is at least a metre and will be a dream to stitch with. We can hardly bear to part with them, but we’ll do anything for our dear readers!

We have one bundle to give away. To enter, tick FABRIC

Worth

£75!

To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 24.01.18 Mark your envelope: Sew January Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.

PORTOFINO

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30/11/2017 11:04

**SEW SATURDAY JAN 18 master_SEW SATURDAY 01/12/2017 09:37 Page 80

Shop Local

Proudly sponsored by:

Supported by:

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Be Creative

Phone: 01209 216942 sales@thesewingstudio.co.uk

CORNWALL

13 Sutton Park Road, Seaford, East Sussex, BN25 1QX Tel. 01323 490912 Monday - Saturday 9.30m - 4.30pm

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Belle Fabrics 46 Sandy Park Rd, Brislington BS4 3PF Mon - Fri 9.30am - 5.30pm Sat 9am - 5pm

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Stockists of Butterick, Vogue, McCalls & Simplicity Dress Patterns

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For Bridal, Dress, Craft & Furnishing Fabrics

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Visit us for local service with internet prices tel: 01242 244025 www.westendsewing.co.uk

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GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Be Inspired www.fabritastic.co.uk

Cornish Garden Nurseries, Barras Moor, Perranarworthal, Truro

www.fabritastic.co.uk laura@fabritastic.co.uk 01733 367260 /fabritastic 26 Culley Court, Orton Southgate, Peterborough. PE2 6WA

Little Sew and Sew Big Thank You to all who came in and took part on the day!

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Fabrics, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Knitting and Sewing Lessons 39 Parsonage Street, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

**SEW SATURDAY JAN 18 master_SEW SATURDAY 01/12/2017 10:06 Page 81

GREATER MANCHESTER

KENT

LEICESTERSHIRE

LINCOLNSHIRE

• Dressmaking • Tailoring • Corsetry • City & Guilds

We offer designer fabrics, wools, notions and workshops

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Opening times 10am - 5pm Park Mall Shopping Centre, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8RY

www.all-fabrics.co.uk

Your award-winning craft superstore!

Papercraft, Knit & Stitch, Classes & Demonstrations!

01252 444220

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HAMPSHIRE

Tel: 01772 880852 www.inspirationscraft.co.uk

We stock haberdashery, craft fabric, threads, ribbons, craft essentials and sew much more!

07900 828431 hello@purple-stitches.com www.purple-stitches.com

HERTFORDSHIRE 142 Cotterells Hemel Hempstead Herts, HP1 1JQ 01442 245383

One of Hertfordshire’s largest stockists for wools, fabrics, haberdashery and crafts www.needlecraftstore.co.uk contact@needlecraftstore.co.uk

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FABRIC PATTERNS SEWING WORKSHOPS

“Your one stop sewing shop”

Fabrics & Haberdashery E-mail: Jaylaurs54@gmail.com Join us on facebook at ‘Jaylaurs Sewing Studios’

Capitol Centre, Preston, Lancashire, PR5 4AW (behind Dunelm Mill) OPEN: MONDAY - SATURDAY; 10AM - 5.30PM SUNDAY; 11AM - 4PM

LANCASHIRE

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2018 Workshop Dates released on Sew Saturday

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HAMPSHIRE

Tel: 01530 416300 /schoolofsewing @sewalison

“We have a number of new and exciting sewing classes for the new year and our selection of dressmaking and patchwork fabrics is continuing to grow.

Pop in to take a peek!”

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LEICESTERSHIRE

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MERSEYSIDE

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01772 780883

The Old Stables, 242 Telegraph Road, Heswell, Wirral CH60 7SG Email: info@lovestitch.co.uk Tel: 0151 345 6738 www.lovestitch.co.uk

oh-sewcrafty@btconnect.com www.facebook.com/ItsOhSewCrafty @ItsOhSewCrafty on Twitter

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SEW SATURDAY 84 Penny Meadows Ashton-Under-Lyme OL6 6EP

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Dressmaking, Pattern Cutting and Jane White Couture Tuition Award, Certificate & Diploma Programme

Enjoy professional tuition – where you’ll sew amongst enthusiasts!

Join our fun ‘Sewing Bee’ workshops and short courses for garment technique specific projects.

We can arrange one to one tuition to suit you.

Official stockist of Elna sewing machines and overlockers

Tel: 01482 840712 www.janewhitetuition.co.uk The Ropewalk, Barton upon Humber, North Lincolnshire DN18 5JT

LEICESTERSHIRE

Fabrics, Haberdashery, Patterns, Craft Kits, Sewing Machines and Overlockers 1 Lynn Road, Downham Market, Norfolk PE38 9NJ Tel: 01366 387147 sewingroomdownhammarket

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NORFOLK

Gorgeous fabrics, haberdashery and stitching essentials for Dressmakers and Quilters, Sewing patterns, Stylecraft yarn, Craft kits, Sewing Workshops & Courses

Fabrics, haberdashery, knitting yarns and buttons.

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Workshops

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FABRICS AND HABERDASHERY SEWING MACHINES AND SERVICE SEWING LESSONS ALTERATIONS AND DRESSMAKING

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New Range of Batik Fabrics

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SOUTH YORKSHIRE Utterly Delightful Fabric Emporium

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80-82 Watling Street, Wilnecote, 85 High Street, Maltby, Rotherham S66 7BL

Tamworth B77 5BJ

SOUTH YORKSHIRE

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SEW MUCH TO DO

For all your sewing needs • Sewing machines & servicing • Fabrics, haberdashery and threads • Sewing classes Tel: 0115 9881550 E: info@colessewingcentre.co.uk

Our Inspirational Fabrics & Yarns will feed your creativity for years to come.

Visit our store and ask us for your loyalty scheme card.

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90 Lower Parliament Street, Nottingham NG1 1EH

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Weekly Sewing classes and Workshops m We’ ov ve ed !

Bugweed’s Ltd is dedicated to sewing and crafts. We teach adults and children, make bespoke items, host birthday parties, hen parties and baby showers and sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery.

630 Abbeydale Road, Sheffield S7 2BA Tel: 0114 258 3763 Email: patchworkgarden@hotmail.com www.thepatchworkgarden.co.uk

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Bury St. Edmunds 23 Hatter Street, Bury St. Edmunds, IP33 1NE Tel: 01284 755459 Email: bury@sewmuchtodo.co.uk

sew kids

BE INSPIRED BY THE OCEAN AND SEW A SET OF

seahorse toys

We were enthralled by David Attenborough’s latest TV programme Blue Planet II when it recently aired, revealing the secret lives of creatures beneath the waves. Young fans of the show will love this cute trio of seahorses and the best part is that they can be sewn in minutes – requiring just two pieces each.

Get started • Patterned cotton • Pom-pom trim: white, blue, navy • Toy stuffing, 60g

Sizes

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free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Small: 12cm x 13.5cm Large: 17cm x 33.5cm

Cutting guide

Small seahorse: cut two pairs Large seahorse: cut one pair 5mm seam allowance used throughout.

Sew a seahorse family

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates, then cut out all of the pieces according to the cutting guide. Place the two large seahorse pieces right sides together. Place 45cm of pom-pom trim between the two layers, facing inwards, from the top of the head and down along the back of the seahorse.

Pin the trim and layers together.

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2

Stitch all around the seahorse, leaving an 8cm gap open along the bottom of the tummy for turning. Clip the seam allowances. Turn right sides out, pushing out the nose and tail.

Press the seahorse. Sew two pom-poms to the face for eyes. Fill the seahorse with toy stuffing then slip stitch the gap closed. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make up the two small seahorses, using just 30cm of pom-pom trim for each one.

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who does what...

Editor, Jennifer Ward jennifer.ward@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Melissa Hyland melissa@aceville.co.uk 01206 505423 Editorial Assistant, Emma Thompson emma.thompson@aceville.co.uk 01206 505917 Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Designers Gemma Eales, Cat Morton, Louise Warner & David Haddington Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Alex Evans, @Nevs, Chloe H, Amber S, Louise D, Gingersnap, Zoe Banks, Hannah O’Connell, MOT Models, Kirsty S, BMA Models Fashion stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Makeup, Dottie Monaghan Accounts Denise Bubb 01206 505958

your

SEWING GUIDE Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!

THE PERFECT FIT

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage.

Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope.

You can then make any alterations that are necessary.

Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply

graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size. l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300 Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk

Published By Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2017 All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

HIGH BUST FULL BUST

WAIST HIPS

Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.

HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it.

Keep the elastic handy for future garments.

HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

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Find this wiggle dress pattern for FREE at sewmag.co.uk

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READING A PATTERN

wear with

EASE

‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily.

Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitted garment?

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN

Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting.

This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.

CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC

SELVEDGES

FOLD

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate different dress sizes.

Cut accordingly to yours.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern, where you can make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Match the lines together when stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric as you position your pieces.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate the position for placement on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

“Sewing bulky seams and hems on denim can be challenging as the front of the machine foot tips up and may damage the needle. Use a denim needle as they are super sharp and strong, and will go through thicknesses with ease. Position a few layers of card (business cards are a good size) under the back of the foot to level it, then slowly sew across the bulky join.”

MAY MARTIN, SEWING EXPERT

PLACING YOUR PIECES

With the printed pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. The tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching. It also allows you to adjust the placement if necessary.

Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grain arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.

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UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

WEFT These run over and under the

sewmag.co.uk

warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

BIAS The bias grain is the diagonal line that runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the weft grain is the selvedge.

S BIA

Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabrics first.

This means that you will know how the fabric reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press the material with an iron using a suitable heat setting. Lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.

The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are an important element to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once they’re cut.

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WEFT

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**ALL SEWN UP classified JAN 18_ALL SEWN UP 01/12/2017 08:47 Page 86

directory FABRICS & SEWING MACHINES

PATTERNS

www.fabricland.co.uk Everything from Craft Cottons, through Polar Fleece to Lycra

tel: 01425 461444

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Stockists of all kinds of • Fashion Fabrics • Woolens • Worsteds • Polywools • Polyesters • Cotton • Dance Wear • Linings • Bridal Wear • Satins • Suiting • Lycra and much, much more!

Join in the fun!

Go online to find your local store on our map!

www.leonsfabrics.co.uk Willoughby Street, Beeston, Nottingham NG9 2LT 07966 515619 info@mikebarnes-trimmings.co.uk www.sewingboxbeeston.co.uk

To see our full range & find a stockist, please visit our website: www.adjustoform.com DIGITAL EDITIONS ARE NOW AVAILABLE ON THE APPLE AND KINDLE NEWSTAND *PLEASE NOTE, DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS WILL NOT INCLUDE SUBSCRIPTIONS GIFTS NOR COVER MOUNTED GIFTS.

Dragonfly Fabrics Modern Dressmaking Fabrics Mayfield, Near Tunbridge Wells.

01892 731087

Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk Nationwide Exhibitions 0117 907 1000

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Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics.

Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions.

And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk

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www.sewmag.co.uk

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TOPof the CLASS Join a workshop or course to learn something new in 2018!

If our crafty resolutions feature (p34) has inspired you to stretch your sewing skills with a class, here are a few recommendations to get you started. How does a course in technical hand embroidery (as experienced by the Duchess of Cornwall) sound?

Or what about a five-day holiday in the beautiful Scottish countryside, learning the intricacies of sewing patterns and getting the perfect fit? If you’d rather work from the comfort of your own home, you can even try an online video tutorial where you learn at your own pace.

Certificate & Diploma Course in Technical Hand Embroidery The Royal School of Needlework The Duchess of Cornwall recently visited The Royal School of Needlework where she was taught Jacobean crewelwork – the first technique students learn on this course. At the school, you can learn core techniques such as blackwork, goldwork, canvas stitches and appliqué, plus can even start your learning at the time of year that suits you. The course is taught at Hampton Court Palace, plus in Bristol, Rugby, Durham and Glasgow – visit royal-needlework.org.uk

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Understanding Sewing Patterns Gartmore House, Stirling House, Scotland

Online Sewing Classes Tilly and the Buttons Brush up your sewing skills with expert tuition – all from the comfort of your own home! Tilly Walnes, founder of Tilly and the Buttons and our new Sew columnist, teaches five classes online via video lessons. They include Make Friends with a Sewing Machine (£25) – or for £45 (with PDF patterns) or £55 (including paper), why not try Learn to Sew Skirts, Sew Your Own Knockout Dress, Learn to Sew Jersey Tops or Sew Your Own Shirt or Shirt Dress? Sign up for the workshops at tillyandthebuttonsworkshops.com 87

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Take part in a five-day retreat in the heart of the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park in Scotland, and learn all you need to know about sewing patterns, from cutting and fabric layout to getting the right fit. By the end, you’ll be able to transfer your fitting adjustments back onto your paper pattern before you make your final piece and produce a simple garment. To book, visit gartmoreestate.com, call 01877 382991 or email mail@gartmorehouse.com

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January Sale H

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4 ISSUES FOR £9.99 Packed with projects, tips and tricks, plus FREE crafty gifts

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YOUR FREE PATTERN

Stitch tops & culottes!

the FEELGOOD COLLECTION

* Features subject to change

Make garments that you’ll love wearing!

❁❁

REVERSIBLE TOP FOR BABIES

YOUR STITCH-LIST SORTED FOR 2018!

PLUS!

✓ Four projects with Liberty’s new

English Garden range. ✓ Our essential toy-making guide.

Find all you need to know! ✓ Fun makes to gift… or keep. The decision is yours. ✓ Stitch a bag, scarf and other fab accessories.

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CREATE AN EASY JERSEY TUNIC

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STYLE CLASSICS

POLO NECK

the piece that’s a social butterfly and game-changer Words by Emma Thompson

Nima shell and disc necklace, £29, east.co.uk

Vegas boots, £170, dunelondon.com

Wrinkle-free roll neck, £16, cottontraders.com

Blazer, £38, trousers, £28, top £10, dorothyperkins.com

Polo neck, roll-neck, turtleneck... call it what you want, so long as you respect it. The hard-working neckline

artists and intellectuals, who favoured the smart utilitarian top over traditional formalwear because it was sleek and elegant without being overly fussy or expensive. Because these groups wore the garment so religiously, it gained strong associations with the social movements they were at the helm of, but none more so than the women’s equality marches of the 1970s.

It isn’t hard to see why the black polo neck was a popular choice for feminists, with its sculptural fit and chic silhouette that unapologetically showcases a woman’s form whilst hardly showing any skin at all. The wearer comes across as mysterious and can feel empowered knowing that they’re wearing the uniform of gender equality.

You don’t have to stick to black when you’re stitching your own, but it’s worth considering colours that will complement other pieces in your wardrobe, as it’s great for layering under dresses and jumpers. It’s such a capsule piece that you should experiment with different weights, from sheer lightweight jerseys to heavier Ponte Roma and everything in between to make this a year-round staple. Whatever you choose, it’s time to cast off the idea that we can’t look good and be comfortable – in our clothes and our own skin.

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sew your own Beginners can stitch this timeless classic with threequarter or fulllength sleeves, in UK sizes 0-22.

Hepburn Turtleneck PDF pattern by Itch to Stitch, £8

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with code SEWKNITS

Heather cotton spandex, £9.95 per metre

Diamond stripe hacci sweater knit, £8.95 per metre

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Diamond stripe hacci sweater knit, £8.95 per metre

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Heather cotton spandex, £9.95 per metre

The above products are all available from girlcharlee.co.uk

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Applies to any fabric, but not patterns, bargain lots, sale items or gift cards.

flatters every figure, accentuates your face, and is a great basis for so many different outfits that it’s in countless capsule wardrobes across the world. It works equally perfectly with cigarette trousers and casual jeans as it does with a skirt or layered under a dress.

In fact, the style is so versatile that you could leave a meeting, catch a friend for coffee, head to a fancy dinner then finish the evening in a bar, and still look as if you’d carefully tailored the outfit to each individual stop.

This über-fashionable garment has its roots as a practical men’s pullover as far back as the 1400s – serving sailors, factory workers and anyone who needed the warmth of a scarf without the impracticality that accompanied it. Polo – the name Brits know it by today – derives from our famous equestrian ball game, and dates back to the 1860s. The warmth and freedom of movement the garment provides is partly why a cream cableknit makes up the Royal Navy submarine crew’s uniform to this day.

Still, there’s a more iconic version we come back to time and time again.

Since the middle of last century, the no-frills plain black polo neck has been popular with everyone from the everyday worker to stars of the silver screen, from Audrey Hepburn to Marilyn Monroe. It’s the unofficial uniform of academics, philosophers,

Cord pinafore, £37.99, bonprix.co.uk

Blue shopper handbag, £29, mandco.com

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