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WINTER fashion look LIFESTYLE Long journey Hygge feeling LOVESTORY Inspiring places
Winter 2017
emma magazine
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ON THE COVER Photography: Becky Kimball Model: Lucia Barcena Styling: Megan Divor Dress: Versace
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emma magazine
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Michaela Brůhová ASSISTANT DITOR: Jana Pastyříková ADVERTISING: Ann Good PHOTOGRAPHY: Becky Kimball
emma magazine writeus@emma.com
Editor‘s note
T
he alt-right—a nice name for a small army of racist thugs—was out in force last week in Charlottesville, Virginia. Not surprisingly, things spun out of control, culminating in a terrorist attack on a peaceful crowd that led to numerous injuries and at least one death. What brought this parade of torch-bearing grotesques into the street? The impending removal of a statue of Robert E. Lee—a reminder, as if we needed it, that the entire enterprise is underpinned by a toxic fantasy of white supremacy. Mixed in with these Aryan daydreams, however, is a less noted thread of misogyny, which Seyward Darby explores in this month’s cover story, “The Rise of the Valkyries.” The movement has hardly been shy about its distaste for women, whose “vindictiveness,” in the words of its kingpin Richard Spencer, “knows no bounds.” Nonetheless, the alt-right has a sprinkling of female pundits, preaching the gospel of family values and Caucasian destiny while sidestepping the contempt of their colleagues. Darby sketches out the movement’s distaff wing and spends some time with one of its rising stars, Lana Lokteff. An articulate and telegenic figure—David Duke, in his capacity as the neo-Nazi Roger Ebert, has praised her “movie-star quality”—Lokteff seems particularly adept at dodging the contradictions of her own position. Will she be the Pied Piper of the alt-right, bringing in the sort of female auxiliary that characterized the Ku Klux Klan? And can a woman ascend to the upper ranks of a movement that tends to view her only as a walking womb?
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CONTENT
8
LOVE STORY
22
BE CREATIVE
12
HYGGE FEELING
27
LONG JOURNEY
17
WINTER FASHION
33
DESIGN PASSION
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LOVE STORY LOVE AND MARRIAGE Love’s Wedding on a Tiny Island Off the Coast of Maine. A year later, the two were married on the very same island where they got engaged.
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Love I took the train from Albany to New York City. I didn’t tell anyone—not even my parents—and I stayed with my best friend, Dylan, in her New School dorm room. She was dating a guy, Aaron Bobrow, at the time, who was Dan’s best friend. Ultimately, we were introduced at Dylan’s birthday party. We talked all night and then I went back home to Los Angeles, and I applied to school in New York. Dan waited for me, and I moved back six months later. That was 11 years ago.” The two dated for a decade. “It felt like forever, but I think the timing was perfect,” admits Nathalie. “We were able to grow up together.” The proposal came on the eve ofNathalie’s birthday at her father’s house in Maine. “Everyone else had gone to bed, but Dan and I stayed up talking by the fire and drinking wine. When we finally decided to turn in, he went to get a glass of water, which annoyed me—he drinks more water than anyone I know! So, I turned off the light and rolled over on my side in a huff. When he came back, he put his arms around me and then slid the ring on my finger. I started laughing and kept saying, ‘You tricked me!’ I had felt like he was going to do it for the past few months, so every sunset walk or weekend trip, and even earlier that day, I was suspicious. Dan worked 10 emma
“I had just dropped out of college in Vermont when we met,” with jewelry designer Liseanne Frankfurt to create a custom ring. “His beautiful mother, Trish, had died a few years earlier, and they used the diamonds from her ring, along with a diamond band given to my mother by my father on the day I was born,” says Nathalie. “They took all the stones and added a few extra to create the most incredibly meaningful ring that brought together both of our families.” It also turned out to be Nathalie’s “something old.”
Newly Engaged and on an island with no service, they stayed up all night. “We were too excited to sleep so we spent the next few hours trying not to wake everyone in the house and walked through the woods in an attempt to get a signal so we could call my mother and our friends,” says Nathalie. A year later, the two were married on the very same island where they got engaged. “It’s the island I grew up going to every summer,” says Nathalie. “My father lives there, and it’s the only place I ever ima-
gined getting married. There’s an old joke in Maine that goes: ‘You can’t get there from here,’ ” says Nathalie. “Well, people did.” An army of friends was quickly enlisted to help plan all of the wedding festivities. Hank Tomashevski cooked, Joseph Free did flowers, David Rodgers produced, and Allia Alliata and Cameron Bird were the family fixers. “My mother, Lisa Love [Vogue’s West Coast Editor], was the curator of it all, though,” says Nathalie. “She was our MVP. She did everything, as usual, and it was perfect.” Events kicked off on Friday night with a Greek-themed clambake—to honor Dan’s heritage—instead of a traditional rehearsal dinner. Nathalie wore a jumpsuit custom-made for her by Dylan Kawahara of Edun. “It was an amazing white pique suit perfect for dancing to ‘Zorba the Greek’ performed by my god brother Charlie Klarsfeld,” says Nathalie, laughing. Soft-shell lobsters were served, poems were read, and toasts were given by family and friends. “Dan’s sister stole the show, though,” says Nathalie. “She said she thought
that Dan would never find a girl, but then she met me—and she knew.” After the speeches were over, the yacht club turned into a dance party. “I had to be dragged out by my mother at 11:58 p.m. on the dot in order to strictly follow the not-seeing-the-groom-past-midnight tradition,” says Nathalie. “I barely kissed Dan good night—so sad Cinderella went home while her friends danced the night away.” The next day, the bride stepped into her Rodarte wedding gown to walk down the aisle. “I always knew I wanted to wear a wedding dress designed by them,” says Nathalie. “They are friends, based in L.A., and some of the most inspiring women I know. And, it was all kind of fate—the day after my engagement, my mother was at the Rodarte show at New York Fashion Week, and Anna Wintour turned to her and said, ‘I saw the dress Nathalie should wear for her wedding.’ That set everything into motion. The girls designed my perfect wedding dress using that look as the inspiration.” Shoe designer Francesco Russo met with Laura and Kate Mulleavy and made the bride beautiful gold metallic sandals to match. “I almost cried when I saw my initials and the little blue stone he put in the soles for my ‘something blue,’ ” says Nathalie. Liseanne, who not only created Nathalie’s engagement ring but also her blue sapphire wedding band, loaned her pearl and diamond earrings for her
The bride’s Longtime friend Jamal Hammadi came from Los Angeles to do her hair, sew in her veil, and masterfully calm her nerves pre-ceremony. Meanwhile, New York–based Miguel Ramos handled her makeup. “I never wear foundation, so it was important to me to stay as natural as possible—taking hints from iconic French natural beauties,” explains Nathalie. Scott Sternberg, formerly of Band of Outsiders, designed Dan’s suit with the help of tailor Martin Greenfield. “My mother also bought him Belgian loafers, which are practically a staple in Maine,” says Nathalie. The bride’s younger cousins, Melanie and Mariette, who also have spent countless summers on the island, served as flower girls, and Dan’s best friend’s children, Alice and Oliver, were flower pages. They all wore Bonpoint that the bride’s mother bought in Paris during Fashion Week. “When I was 12, I was in the only wedding I’ve ever been in,” says Nathalie. “It was the wedding of Marina Rust and Ian Connor at the very same church. It was wonderful for everything to come full circle and to have their daughter, Lara, in mine as a junior bridesmaid.” Lara and the bride’s sister, Laura Love, who served as the maid of honor. Longtime friend Jamal Hammadi came from Los Angeles to do her hair, sew in her veil. emma 11
HYGGE FEELING FROM ART TO COSINESS How to pick the right lighting, organise a dinner party and even how to dress hygge, all backed up by Meik‘s years‘ of research at the Happiness Research Institute in Copenhagen.
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Hygge (pronounced hue-guh not hoo-gah)
We’re pretty sure you’ve come across this peculiar word that’s been strewn around all over in the past year or so, but what the hell is hygge and how do you even pronounce it? Well, it’s actually articulated as hue-gah, and the Danish term is in fact used to describe a lifestyle, concept, or way of life. However you want to put it, really.
Hygge We’re pretty sure you’ve come across this peculiar word that’s been strewn around all over in the past year or so, but what the hell is hygge and how do you even pronounce it? Well, it’s actually articulated as hue-gah, and the Danish term is in fact used to describe a lifestyle, concept, or way of life. However you want to put it, really. While there isn’t one fixed definition, hygge encompasses the feeling of cosy contentment and wellbeing through the pure indulgence of the simple things in life. Simply put, it could mean having a cup of hot chocolate when it’s pouring cats and dogs outside for you, whereas it may be something as simple as having quality time with family for someone else. Perhaps hygge wouldn’t make sense at first thought, but bearing in mind that Denmark is one of the happiest countries around the globe, on top of the endless library of books and articles on hygge 14 emma
everywhere, we’re now sold and it’s easy to see why the Danish are obsessed with hygge. Who doesn’t want to be cosy, fulfilled and happy?!
Amouage Peace Room Spray Relish in a tranquil scent inspired by the peaceful harmony of an ideal autumn day that would relax even the most cluttered of minds. The intoxicating opulent fragrance that lingers for hours radiates top notes of oakmoss, cedarwood and gaiac wood, a heart of blackcurrant, rhubarb and labdanum, and base of tuberose. A must-have for any kind of environment and to uplift the spirit, this unique diffuser also humidifies, purifies, and atomises the air to eliminate odours and create a spa-like experience. Of course, the diffuser goes hand-in-hand with any of Young Living’s powerful essential oils. Take hygge to the next level with this luxurious-looking, tongue-in-cheek Paper Cup
from Tiffany & Co.’s new Home & Accessories Collection, which fuses creativity with the finest materials possible. This highly covetable ‘paper’ cup for instance, is hand-finished with sterling silver and engraved with American luxury jeweller’s signature imprint. Nothing says Netflix and chill like being able to snuggle up in a comfortable throw, and this knitted one that’s made from 100% cotton even has enough room for two. It’ll even look Instagram-able next to a steamy cup of hot chocolate, or thrown over your couch. Whatever you fancy, really. Feeling good on the inside also means that your skin has got to be taken care of as well, and that’s where L’Oreal’s new Pure Clay Masks come in. Enriched with natural mineral clay and botanical extracts, there are four variants to target various skin concerns – Detoxify, Illuminating, Anti-Pores and Hydration. Drizzle a couple drops of this delicately perfumed oil.
A UK college has started teaching students the Danish concept of hygge - said to make homes nicer and people happier. But what exactly is it and is it exportable? Sitting by the fire on a cold night, wearing a woolly jumper, while drinking mulled wine and stroking a dog - probably surrounded by candles. That‘s definitely „hygge“. Eating home-made cinnamon pastries. Watching TV under a duvet. Tea served in a china set. Family get-togethers at Christmas. They‘re all hygge too. The Danish word, pronounced „hoo-ga“, is usually translated into English as „cosiness“. But it‘s much more than that, say its aficionados - an entire attitude to life that helps Denmark to vie with Switzerland and Iceland to be the world‘s happiest country. Morley College, in central London, is teaching students how to achieve hygge as part of its Danish language course. „We have long, cold winters in Denmark,“ says lecturer Susanne Nilsson. „That influences things. Hygge doesn‘t have to be a winter-only thing, but the weather isn‘t that good for much of the year.“ With up to 17 hours of darkness per day in the depths of winter, and average temperatures hovering around 0C, people spend more time indoors as a result, says Nilsson, meaning there‘s greater focus on home entertaining. „Hygge could be families and friends getting together for a meal, with the lighting dimmed, or it could be time spent on your own reading a good book,“ she says. „It works best when there‘s not too large an empty space around the person or people.“ The idea is to relax and feel as at-home as possible, forgetting life‘s worries. The recent growth in Scandinavian-themed restaurants, cafes and bars in the UK is helping to export hygge, she adds, with their intimate settings, lack of uniformity in decor and concentration on comforting food. Most customers won‘t have heard of the term, but they might get a sense of it. In the US, the wallpaper and fabric firm Hygge West explicitly aims to channel the concept through its cheery designs, as does
a Los Angeles bakery, called Hygge, which sells traditional Danish pastries and treats. The rest of the world seems to be slowly waking up to what Danes have been wise to for generations - that having a relaxed, cosy time with friends and family, often with coffee, cake or beer, can be good for the soul,“
First appeared in Danisha writing in the 19th Century and has since evolved into the cultural idea known in Denmark today
says Helen Russell, author of The Year of Living Danishly: Uncovering the Secrets of the World‘s Happiest Country. „Hygge seems to me to be about being kind to yourself - indulging, having a nice time, not punishing or denying yourself anything. All very useful come January when in the UK everyone‘s on diets or manically exercising or abstaining from
alcohol. „There isn‘t so much enforced deprivation in Denmark. Instead you‘re kinder to yourselves and so each other. Danes don‘t binge then purge - there‘s not much yo-yo dieting in Denmark. No wonder they‘re happier than we are in the UK.“ The adjectival form of hygge is „hyggeligt“, a word offered as a compliment to a host after a pleasant evening at their home. „Hygge isn‘t just a middle-class thing. Absolutely everyone‘s at it from my dustbin man to the mayor,“ says Russell. „Hygge is so crucial to living Danishly that the other day on the motorway, I saw a camper van driving along with lit candles in the windows. This is probably illegal but Vikings don‘t tend to be too hung up on health and safety. „My most hygge experience to date was probably watching the sun set from a hot tub in a blizzard in January, beer in hand. But it needn‘t be anything quite so dramatic. I generally light a candle at my home office desk while I‘m working.“ There‘s increased discussion of hygge in the UK. „I think I first saw the word in Trine Hahnemann‘s book Scandinavian Christmas, and it immediately made sense to me,“ emma 15
Calm sounds „It‘s interesting that the word doesn‘t really translate into other languages. Hygge isn‘t restricted to Denmark, so why is it so hard to describe without borrowing a Danish word?“ It sounds a bit like the English word „hug“, for which the Oxford English Dictionary lists no origins. The 19th/early 20th Century philologist Walter William Skeat thought it might be of Scandinavian origin. Notionally the effect of hygge and a hug is similar - comforting and secure. An obsolete meaning of hug is „to cherish oneself; to keep or make oneself snug“, according to the OED. „Sometimes you see or do things that you would call ‚hyggeligt‘ in the UK but you wouldn‘t use that word to describe them because people wouldn‘t know what you‘re talking about,“ says Nilsson. Some older Danes feel that hygge isn‘t what it used to be, as the stress on socialising has lessened. It‘s now generally considered hyggeligt to watch TV alone or watching a DVD set, perhaps while eating crisps. Other countries and cultures have similar expressions. In German there‘s Gemutlichkeit, a sense of wellbeing based on good food, company and perhaps a drink. But Danes insist hygge is unique. The blogger Anna Lea West, has offered „cosiness of the soul“ as 16 emma
an English definition. „Hygge was never meant to be translated. It was meant to be felt,“ translator ToveMaren Stakkestad has written. Maybe the only way to understand this slippery cultural idea is to visit Denmark, rather than read about it. „It‘s an idea so rooted in the Danish sense of togetherness, and perhaps even in Denmark‘s social democracy, that a Brit might struggle to grasp its historic and social significance,“ says Patrick Kingsley, author of the travel book How To Be Danish. „But that said, in essence hygge is about a group of slightly gloomy friends huddling under the duvet on a cold winter‘s night. And there is little more British than that.“ Picture this; it’s blowing a gale outside, your best friends are in your clean and softly furnished living room, there’s plenty of red wine, the heating’s on, you’ve cooked a banger of a meal, no-one’s got work tomorrow, Midsommer Murders is on the telly, the lights are way down low so, as the song goes; let it snow let it snow, let it snow. That safe and snug feeling you can imagine you’d have in that situation? That’s hygge. ‘It’s a special atmosphere of a special moment.’ Says Marie Tourell Søderberg, a Danish actress whose beautiful new book Hygge is one of several coming out this autumn on the subject. ‘It‘s where everything just falls into place. Where the company is right, where the temperature is right.
WINTER FASHION IT‘S SO COLD OUTSIDE Ever since we saw Carrie Bradshaw in her boyfriend jeans, big fluffy coat and Ray-Ban aviators, we‘ve been obsessed with the A-List‘s winter wardrobes when the mercury drops.
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delight
FASHIONS ON THE CATWALK CAN SEEM REMOTE AT TIMES – BUT THEY SET THE TRENDS THAT FILTER DOWN THROUGH THE FASHION PRESS AND SOCIAL MEDIA, INTO OUR WARDROBES AND ONTO THE STREETS.
The 1980s ‘glamazon’ look is set to be big in 2017 – think shoulder pads, asymmetrical cuts, sequins, sky-high hemlines and lots of metallic-look fabrics. Isabel Marant’s ruched, scarlet mini-dress with voluminous shoulders is a typically Dynasty-style example. See also the gold, plunging creation and the semi-sheer, off-one-shoulder, ultra-short dress in petrol blue by Yves Saint Laurent. Then there is the embellished mini – cut away at the waist – by Louis Vuitton, along with equally va-va-voom offerings from Marc Jacobs, Kenzo and Armani. The deconstructed shirt is not a new idea, but in 2017 it will go to another level of inventiveness. At Alexander Wang, shirts are cut out to create crop tops and mini skirts, while young brand Monse slices up its poplin shirts, brings them off the shoulder and boldly adds sequins.
Expect to see sporty style everywhere in 2017. Blingy crystal-studded tracksuit tops and go-faster leggings are offered up by Versace, while Dior’s spring/ summer collection makes fencing chic unexpectedly fabulous – with white padded jackets, extra-long shirt cuffs, slim cropped trousers and an androgynous mood. Fans of the recent pink trend will be pleased to hear of its reappearance, although this time around, it is less pastel and more eye-popping. Fuchsia, raspberry and deep cherry are set to be everywhere, and Prada, Céline, Valentino and Balenciaga have all created drapey midi dresses in shocking pink for their spring/summer collections. Time to think pink, as they say.
Sheer delight The see-through trend continues into 2017, with diaphanous, transparent layers appearing in collections by Delpozo (a floaty skirt over a brocade mini) as well as at Coach, DKNY and Anna Sui. There are even crocheted skirts at Burberry. Wispy, featherlight and pale, the sheer trend is perfect for those of an ethereal persuasion. Or for a different mood, there
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is sheer lace galore from Dolce & Gabbana, among others, or Perspex trousers by Carven. There’s a distinctly ‘80s feel about the new big-shoulder proportions emerging in menswear for 2017 – it’s a look that is playful, exaggerated and just a little power dressy. Bombers, suit jackets and overcoats are all looking broad and boxy, giving the wearer immediate swagger. Brands going for the strong-shouldered look include Lanvin, E Tautz, JW Anderson and Balenciaga, whose new designer Demna Gvasalia unleashed the look at Paris fashion week last June. And not forgetting the bold stripy blazer with outsized shoulders by Vivienne Westwood. There’s no avoiding the cropped trouser in 2017, with hems going up and ankles on display, making a narrow silhouette in both casual and tailored trews. Look no further than Gucci (worn with loafers, of course), Issey Miyake (baggy) and Christopher Kane (checked) – among many others – for evidence. And for something extra out-there Haider Ackermann.
Of course, persistence is important. If you abandon a marathon at the 5km mark, you’ll never succeed. But rather than thinking of quitting as the absolute last resort, we may want to reconsider its value, say experts. Research suggests that, when done for the right reasons, walking away from a workplace, relationship or even an ambition can make you happier, healthier and more successful. For one, people often are working towards the wrong goals to begin with. Even if a goal was once a good fit, it might not be so appropriate a few years later. “If I never quit anything, I’d still be playing tee-ball [a children’s version of baseball] and playing with Transformers,” Barker jokes. But once we have realised we want to take a different direction, most of us still find it difficult to abandon our current path. Would you rather lose $5, or turn down the opportunity to earn $5? Most of us find the latter easier, even though the result is the same This reflects a particularly human tendency: our excruciating aversion to loss. What we have already invested, whether time or money or something else, reflects our sunk cost. That investment is hard to abandon. Would you rather lose $5, or turn down the opportunity to earn $5? Most of us find the latter easier, even though the result is the same. It’s the same reason that someone with an expensive, time-intensive law or medical degree may be less likely to leave their career path, no matter how unhappy they might be. But as Stephen Dubner points out in the Freakonomics podcast The Upside of Quitting, we’re so loss-averse that we favour sunk cost over an equally important consideration: opportunity cost. “For every hour or dollar that you spend on one thing, you’re giving up the opportunity to spend that hour or dollar on something else. Something that might make your life better – if only you weren’t so worried about the sunk cost,” he says.
If you never quit anything, you’re going to have less time for the things that really matter. – Eric Barker
I quit my first ‘real’ job after university. It seemed to be a mistake: it was in my industry of choice, it was the start of the recession, I had just been promoted, and I didn’t have another 9-to-5 lined up… or any real financial assets to fall back on. It turned out to be the best career decision I ever made. Only by giving up my job as a political reporter in Washington DC could I move to Italy and pursue my dream of becoming a travel journalist. One of the publications I began writing for was the BBC, which led to a full-time job across two continents. Of course, I didn’t know it would work out that way. And leaving my job wasn’t the only reason for everything that followed. But quitting was a terrifying – and necessary – starting point. For most of us, the important role quitting can play in success runs counter to deeply-held beliefs. In previous generations, the usual narrative was that success (and financial stability) followed the workhorse who stuck with their job, or career path, no matter what. As promises of job security have dwindled, that role model of a company lifer has been replaced by the entrepreneur who never gives up. 20 emma
GLAM LOOK - SHINE YOURSELF
From wobbly antler head boppers to tinsel hair ties, the festive season is a great excuse for some novelty attire – especially with Save the Children’s Christmas Jumper Day right around the corner on 15 December. But, what if you want to get in on the act and look good at the same time? While novelty knits are no doubt entertaining, it’s fair to say that flashing lights and pendulous baubles are far from sartorial sovereignty. And, while we’re well aware that a Christmas jumper should be a fun thing to buy, that doesn’t mean the fashion conscious need to let their standards slip completely.
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BE CREATIVE BEING KIND AGAIN A couple of days later, I enroll in a creativity class. This seems like an oxymoron. Isn’t it like taking a class in how to be tall or have a smaller nose? But I guess creative people are open-minded, so I want to give it a shot.
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Creativity I am not typing this article at my desk. I am sprawled on my floor, because an artist told me a change of perspective would boost my creative thinking. I’ve spent the last hour warming up my imagination muscles: I devised 50 new uses for a spoon (drumstick, mini catapult, ineffective shield). I surrounded myself with blue, since a University of British Columbia study showed it’s a creativity-enhancing color. I played the violin as Einstein did. (Actually, I don’t own a violin, so I played my son’s ukulele.) In short, I am using as many creativity-boosting strategies as possible. (Well, I’m not taking LSD, which may have helped Steve Jobs achieve those world-changing insights. I’m in the middle of a monthlong project to see if I can reignite my creative spark. I’m a writer, so creativity is part of my job description. But in the last few years I’ve started to worry that my middle-aged brain is ossifying. And as I’ve discovered, continued creativity may be crucial not just for my livelihood but for my longevity, too. A 2006 George Washington University study of 300 senior citizens found that creative activities, such as art and writing, slow the aging process, resulting in fewer doctor visits and better mental health. Every day, even those of us who aren’t Left Bank watercolor painters engage
I pledge to try the techniques at home. The next night. in creative thinking. “Creativity is critical to solving problems in all parts of our lives,” says Richard Restak, a neurologist in Washington, D.C., and the author of Think Smart ($16, amazon.com). That includes work, parenting, and arranging our medicine cabinets. And here’s the good news: “Just as you can learn techniques to improve your memory,” says Restak, “you can learn techniques to be more creative.” We’ll see. My first call is to Rex Jung, an assistant professor of neurosurgery at the University of New Mexico, in Albuquerque, who specializes in the brain and creativity. He tells me that we tend to think of creative people as churning out one work of genius after another, but brilliance is a numbers game. Creative people tend to be prolific, and usually the misfires far outnumber the hits. “I recently went to a museum in Germany, and they had a Picasso exhibition,” says Jung. “But the paintings were terrible. I think I saw every lousy Picasso out there. He created about 50,000 works, and not all of them were masterpieces.” A couple of days later, I
enroll in a creativity class. This seems like an oxymoron. Isn’t it like taking a class in how to be tall or have a smaller nose? But I guess creative people are open-minded, so I want to give it a shot.
Perspective I arrive at the Creativity Workshop, in New York City, for my one-on-one training with the directors, a ponytailed artist named Alejandro Fogel and his partner, Shelley Berc, a novelist. Berc asks me to sit on the floor, as a kid would. She says I need to be more playful. My problem is that I’m too logical, Berc tells me. I like to analyze and compartmentalize. “We’re going to try to make you think less,” she says in a soothing voice. “Logic is important. But if it comes in too early, it ruins things.” Neuroscience backs her up: According to Jung, creative people know how to mute the volume on the frontal lobes (the buttoned-up, analytical portion of the brain), freeing the rest of the brain to make unexpected connections. Fogel and Berc lead me through a series of exercises to help me. emma 23
playing
Flipping the Problem Over
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hey agree. And then get in a fight over who is heads and who is tails. This could get ugly fast. I know I should remain calm. Research shows that a positive mood is most conducive to creative thinking; negativity inhibits ingenuity. I take some deep breaths. (Sniff the flower; blow out the candle, as I tell the kids.) I’m in charge of my five-year-old twins, and they’re about to come to blows because they both want to play with the lone plastic light saber. I need to engage in some creative parenting. “You guys can take turns,” I say. “I’ll flip a coin to see who goes first.”They agree. And then get in a fight over who is heads and who is tails. This could get ugly fast. I know I shoud remain calm. Research shows that a positive mood is most conducive to creative thinking; negativity inhibits ingenuity. I take some deep breaths. (Sniff the flower; blow out the candle, as I tell the kids.) I think of a classic technique I read about in Cracking Creativity ($20, amazon.com), by creativity expert Michael Michalko: reversal, in which you turn the problem on its head. Take Henry Ford. In the beginning, carmakers kept the vehicle stationary and had factory workers congregate around it to install parts. Ford’s idea was to keep the workers stationary and move the car from worker to worker. Thus was born the assembly line. Maybe instead of discouraging my kids’ argument, I should push it further.
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Start a sketchbook
I
save the truly painful experiment for last. I’m going to sign up for some public humiliation in the form of an improv class. As you probably know, improv is unscripted comedy in which performers make things up as they go along, letting one absurd situation build on the next. I’m terrified, but as adman Jim Riswold—another Nike mastermind, who created campaigns starring Michael Jordan and Spike Lee—told me, “You cannot be creative unless you’re willing to walk around with your pants around your ankles.” Isn’t my creative growth more important than my dignity? At the Magnet Theater, in New York City, on a dimly lit bare stage, there are 16 of us, ranging in age from 20s to 60s. We learn the first rule: It’s not just OK to make a fool of yourself—it’s encouraged. We do a series of exercises designed to maximize our foolishness. We make crazy bodybuilding poses. We confess our most absurd pet peeves. (One woman says hers is when charities ask her for money. “I couldn’t give less of a crap about other people,” she says. I make a note to myself: Maybe she’s not the ideal partner for team exercises.) After all this schooling, I haven’t created my magnum opus yet.
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LONG JOURNEY A GUIDE TO SOMEWERE So you’re unsure whether long-term travel is for you, as you normally just take a few short weekend getaways here and there to nearby destinations as a way to spice up your life? Well, we can definitely help you with that difficult decision, as we have tackled a plethora of different trips of varying lengths and are actually currently sitting here writing this article on our two-year travelversary!
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Not your typical holiday
Getting that urge to travel long-term and explore beyond your usual comfort zone may seem like an itch you can never scratch, due to sheer worry or general anxiety about finances and/or safety in a new, overwhelming and seemingly alien destination. Well, we say just grit your teeth and do it, as you will never get the same immersion and appreciation of a country.
Travel the World Say so long to the flaming baked alaska paraded around the dining room during your appointed hour in the cavernous dining room on your mega-ship, at least among the newest vessels. The tradition of the showy dessert and the practice of appointment dining may continue elsewhere, but a tide of new cruise line launches promises more modern menus, contemporary design and flexible schedules aboard their vessels.The Virgin Group, founded by Richard Branson, recently revealed details on its Virgin Voyages, launching in 2020. In June, the Ritz-Carlton hotel company released plans for the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection, scheduled to begin sailing in 2019. A new line is also coming to the expedition cruise category in Norwegian Yacht Voyages. Another company, Haumana, based in Tahiti, resumed operations in June after a six-year hiatus. Among river cruise lines, Uniworld Boutique 28 emma
River Cruise Collection plans to launch U by Uniworld, which will focus on millennial guests next spring. Cruises have long been proliferating as lines expanded. According to the Cruise Lines International Association, which represents 60 cruise companies, some 25.8 million passengers are projected to cruise in 2017, a 47 percent increase since 2009. But the spate of new cruise lines announced is unusual and an indication of an industry moving into more specific demographic and geographic niches. “It is remarkable in the industry,” said Colleen McDaniel, the senior executive editor of CruiseCritic.com, a website that covers cruising. “We’ve seen steady growth, but it’s been among the same lines.” Many of the newcomers aim to attract travelers who are new to cruising. “Companies like Virgin and Ritz-Carlton already have built a brand that people recognize. They might say, ‘I don’t know anything about cruising, but
I know Ritz and if they’re doing it, sign me up,’” said Ms. McDaniel. Other launches see an opportunity to appeal to younger travelers or to make expedition cruising to adventurous destinations more comfortable. As Ms. McDaniel put it, “No more camp bunk beds.”
Cruises Most of the new lines skip using the c-word altogether. “The word ‘cruise’ has associations with old people and boring stuff, which of course is not true,” said Ulf Henrick Wynnsdale, the president and chief executive officer of Norwegian Yacht Voyages, which adopted its name to avoid conflict with Norwegian Cruise Lines. The following is a rundown on the new fleets ranging from operational to under construction. So there you have it – our top five advantages and disadvantages of long-term travel! Now it’s time to make your decision…
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Cappadocia is a region of Turkey, which is characterized by an extremely interesting landscape of volcanic origin, the underground city, established in 1 thousand. BC. e. and extensive cave monasteries, leading its history since the days of the early Christians. This area is known for a year-round daily mass launch of hot air balloons. People in Cappadocia lived and live in amazing shape carved in the rock shelters. Shape “stone pillars” was due to the eruption of volcanoes and lava covering the tuff – soft rock. And then water and ice have transformed the valley into separate hills. The incredible landscape, the form of rocks and daily flights of colorful balloons transferred to a fairy tale. There are some places on this magical planet that leave your jaw on the ground, whilst you drag it along like an old car dragging a broken bumper. The Maras Salt Ponds, located in the ancient Inca Sacred Valley (we are happy to say), is one of such places. Over the past two and a half years, we have traveled to 41 countries, and we’ve been fortunate enough to pick up our jaws off the floor, at least a few times. Our trip to Namibia comes to mind, the waterfalls of Iceland had us drooling too, and the Benagil cave in Portugal was beyond anything we could imagine. This time, however, we did not expect to see such a unique landscape appear in front of us.
The process of creating the salt is really simple of course – the sacred water runs into these pools (which are not deep at all), and then evaporates to leave a thin crust of what has become some of the world’s most desirable salt. We spent a good few hours navigating our way through the maze of pathways, and it will certainly go down as one of our favorite places to get lost. The lagoon can be found in the tiny fishing village of Las Coloradas, located on the eastern coast of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. No magic or paint were used to color the lagoon.It’s actually inhabited by the red plankton and brine shrimp and they dye the water with their chemicals. The fairytale-like landscape is also decorated with the piles of salt as Las Coloradas was once a salt mining town..
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but economically it was derailed soon after. After 70 years in the sidings, it was pulled back into service by a group of railway enthusiasts. The locomotive is engine 87 and as I watch the steam funnel out it leaves a dreamy nostalgia in its wake. So it’s surprising that the vintage styled wood-decked carriages are in fact no more than 20 years old, and some just a couple of months old. A modern kitchen serves sandwiches and of course Welsh rarebit (a version of cheese on toast) and a tea trolley does the rounds. The journey passes through Caernafon Bay and the Lley Peninsuala, the old slate quarries and once at Bryn Gloch the Snowdonia National Park unfolds beyond. The valley narrows dramatically as we pass between mountains Moel Eilio and Mynydd Mawr. Now it’s all alpine views and tumbling waterfalls towards Rhyd Ddu. Soon we climb to the summit of the line at Pitts Head and soon after the train begins its descent zig-zagging all the way down the hillside to Beddgelert. The top speed is 25mph so there’s time savour and digest what my eyes are devouring. Those of a certain age will remember the cult series The Prisoner. Actor Patrick Mcgoohan, aka No. 6, was regularly chased (there were 17 episodes) by a balloon each time he tried to escape. The 70-acre Italianate Portmeiron Village was created out of the fantastical imagination of architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis. Anything that caught his fancy on his travels ended up here. Even the odd relic from film sets. No-one lives at the holiday complex; it’s all hotels, eateries, a beach and 19 miles of footpaths through lush greenery. It took him 50 years to complete yet this unusual man never spent a night here – he was simply showing off his skills. Turns out Prince Edward and Mrs Simpson stayed in the Peacock suite in the hotel, Brian Epstein stayed in Gate House and Jules Holland loved the 2-bed Unicorn building so much he made a replica in his garden.
Dreamed of traveling for a while. This is no longer a vacation, it‘s your life.
The hills are alive in North Wales with the cranky rhythm of chugging wheels and the whistle of coal powered trains as a stream of steam is funnelled out through their chimney. It’s a mode of transport that hails from the early 19th century that all too soon came to the end of the line. Rail enthusiasts have set in motion a revival of the Welsh Highland Railways and Ffestiniog Railway bringing the steamy affair of vintage travel by railway through this amazing landscape, right back on track. I book my carriage. The seaside town of Llandudno is my base, a pretty town with a mish mash of elegant Victorian and Edwardian architecture and pleasant scenery. It stretches out from the foot of the Great Orme, a huge chunk of limestone that curves around the town. It surges up from the sea and towards the seafront and its wide ribbon of sandy beach and an even wider promenade with a war memorial obelisk as its landmark. Caernarfon to Beddgeert – Welsh Highland Railway. My first rail adventure starts in Caernarfon where I alight the delightful narrow gauge Welsh Highland Railway train. The line was built in 1923 30 emma
“We travel, some of us forever, to seek other places, other lives, other souls.” – Anais Nin
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DESIGN PASSION VISUAL COMMUNICATION Hyping the latest, greatest, flashiest design options may be fun and attention-grabbing, but it doesn’t always serve your bottom line. Author Jarrod Drysdale says instead of constantly pitching new products to new customers, consider standing behind your original great designs and pitch ongoing support and design evolution to your existing clients.
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art AFTER MORE THAN TWO YEARS IN RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT, VEILED GROUP LIMITED, HAS RELEASED THE WORLD’S FIRST WOODEN, COMPLETELY PORTABLE SOLAR CHARGER.
The experimental and playful collaboration between Arctic Paper, JUNO and the printing house Göteborgstryckeriet resulted in a series of paper objects, which also serve as the cover images for the new swatch books. They combine craftsmanship, functionality and design, delivering a overview of grammages and other technical information so designers can find exactly the right paper for their projects. “In times of Instagram and template design, more and more creatives are recognising the significance of paper as a material which can be formed with the hands, touched and felt. That paper is real, and that graphical papers continue to be the basis for long-lasting communication in our real world,” — says Martina Rosendahl, marketing communications manager at Arctic Paper, about the idea of the new swatch books.
James Gilleard shared a set of beautiful illustrations that he created in 2017. They are all vector illustration and it definitely sets the bar at another level. The amount of details is nothing but staggering, I was trying to understand some of them like the one of Paris, or the ones with buildings and I couldn‘t. There‘s just too much going on which makes me wonder how long it took it for James to create those illustrations. Below you can see some of my favorites. We also recommend that you check out James website at www.jamesgilleard.com/ - James is a designer, art director and illustrator based in London, UK. He has an incredible portfolio with more amazing vector illustration projects. More and more, design is becoming an all-encompassing term spanning everything from new products, TV animations, graphics and clothing to the way our buildings are put together and our streets are laid out. Every year, the Design Museum does an apt job of making sense of this enormous concept with its Beazley Designs of the Year exhibition. Now in its 10th year, the show presents a carefully
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curated selection of the year’s best designs spanning six categories: architecture, digital, fashion, graphics, product and transport. The show comprises a shortlist, of which category winners and one overall winner will be chosen and revealed in January. Navigating the 2017 exhibition is significantly easier than last year’s. The 62 shortlisted projects have been grouped into themes, making them more digestible, while architectural practice Carmody Groarke has designed a dystopian exhibition space in the basement of the museum, consisting of mountainous, grey sculptures. Made from a textured, recycled paper called Soundcel, the space is both tactile and peculiar, and the mounds separate out sections sufficiently. Exhibition graphics have been designed by Micha Weidmann Studio, and consist of brightly-coloured acrylic pieces that add some life to the cavernous, grey mounds. This year’s themes include: Innovators, “risk-taking” projects that are free from commercial constraint; Activists, projects that recognise and address current political and social issues; Brands, which are communication, graphic and brand design projects, mostly for clientns.
WWW.EMMAMAG.COM FACEBOOK.COM/EMMAMAG WINTER 2017
emma magazine
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