Published as a bespoke guide First published 2015 2nd edition, MAY 2016 © Michael Reid Sydney, Michael Reid Berlin, 2016
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CONTENTS
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Foreword by Michael Reid
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Berlin by Fabian Muir
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Michael Reid Berlin and its Neighbourhood
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See, Do and Stay
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Food and Drink
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Shopping
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Hear
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Online
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Berlin is a city of contrasts. Museums and memorials bear witness to a turbulent and divided past. Since the fall of the Wall Germany’s capital has transformed itself into one of Europe’s most creative and cultural centres – a hip contemporary consciousness infiltrating every aspect of Berlin life. Tourism is booming. An eclectic abundance of galleries, museums, restaurants, cafés, shops and markets provides a feast for the senses and the mind. Little wonder that almost 12 million visitors have sampled Berlin’s delights in the past year. Described by long-standing mayor Klaus Wowereit as “poor but sexy”, Berlin’s rapidly gentrifying cobblestone streets find organic supermarkets standing alongside derelict, bullet-ridden, graffiti-covered buildings, and boutique designer showrooms interspersed with communist era apartment blocks. Michael Reid
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Berlin: hot spot and melting pot. It’s Europe’s worst
motor. Others, many of them budding artists,
kept secret. Mere mention of the place seems to
will be drawn to the fact that Berlin remains
send a jolt of electricity through everyone, even
remarkably affordable, enabling young people to
those who have never been. ‘Ah, I can’t wait to go
live in a highly stimulating environment and create
there’ is the most typical response I hear, a stark
works that may or may not (alas, frequently not)
contrast to the Baskerville fog that used to settle
be the first important steps towards a significant
in people’s eyes when I previously told them I lived
career.
in Munich (a beautiful and culturally vibrant town, I should add, unjustly victim to weary clichés of
But it does take a certain type to live and prosper
oversized beers and Lederhosen).
there, for Berlin doesn’t simply offer herself, it is up to the individual to take the initiative and try
Such enthusiasm is not what one would typically
to seduce her. One could also say that it holds a
expect of a scruffy, disorganised city, for by French
special appeal for those who do not (yet) crave
or Italian standards Berlin is not a beautiful place, and
suburban stability. If you prefer a predictable
the modern version thumbs her nose at the olde
environment – one that offers, to quote Radiohead,
worlde Prussian order and perfection Berlin once
“no alarms and no surprises” – Berlin will never
embodied. Yet for all her rough edges and flawed
be more than a short-term proposition. But
perfection she exudes an undeniable magnetism,
for those who thrive on never quite knowing
drawing you in more than her rivals, in much the
what might be around the corner, who nourish
same way that the best dressed girl at a party is
themselves on all the changing colours of
not necessarily the one most worth talking to.
life, bright or dark, and who understand how monotony is the scourge of creativity, Berlin
Some will be attracted to Berlin’s arts and culture,
presents opportunities that most other European
some to her uniquely complex place in history, some
capitals cannot.
to her joyous acceptance of every conceivable genre of weirdness. For others it’s Berlin’s intellectual
Perhaps the fascination of Berlin lies in her layers,
rigour or the sense of calm and slowness – somewhat
with the history – inspiring and depressing in equal
surprising in the capital of Europe’s economic
measure – leaping or lurking on every corner.
“one cannot grow bored in Berlin, for the only limit is one’s own imagination”
This was a town turned on its head by a succession
Soviet military bases or GDR factories, for Berlin
of crazed ideologies and where two worlds quite
abounds with overgrown, abandoned places that no
literally collided for decades, which means that
one can afford to rehabilitate or restore. Or perhaps
years, perhaps even a lifetime are required before
I will simply explore, as yet unfamiliar streets and
one can understand the ebbs and flows. As much as
districts, where classic European buildings or
I love Sydney, Melbourne and the outback, you can’t
hideous socialist ones look down and muse upon
find that there.
the confluence of cultures from all corners of the
Indeed each time you begin to feel you have a handle on the place, something new will reveal itself. Berlin is constantly in flux, always experimenting, always building, rebuilding and reinventing herself. It borders on the miraculous, yet it is easy to take for granted the fact that Berlin has emerged as one of the world’s most tolerant and progressive cities after a seeming age of darkness. If I have a free day, I am spoilt for choice. Do I go to a world class museum or exhibition? Do I visit one of the operas or theatres, eminently affordable due to generous government subsidies and again, world class? Do I ride my bicycle through the gardens of Schloss Charlottenburg or along the many waterways, of which there are more in Berlin than in Venice? Do I hit the Anna Funder trail and seek out remnants of the East German regime? Or, for a change of pace, I can pack a camera and creep around the ruins of 19th century sanatoria,
globe. Along the way I might pause in an elegant, high-ceilinged café, where the ghosts still blush from their 1920s excesses, before visiting some of the city’s hundreds of galleries; one cannot grow bored in Berlin, for the only limit is one’s own imagination. The one thing I probably won’t do is have a plate of Currywurst mit Pommes (sausage with curry sauce and chips), Berlin’s riposte to the pie floater and a strangely vital cog in the city’s economy. Ultimately everyone has their own Berlin. Mine is just one of 3.5 million approaches to the place. Berlin may be 800 years old, but she remains a work in progress and her reincarnations make her impossible to define. But whether you’re a tourist, expat or homegrown Berliner, Berlin will always reward those who have the nerve to cross the room and talk to her, the less glamorous but most interesting girl at the party. It’s up to you to take the first step. Fabian Muir
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Michael Reid Berlin
Tel: +49 0 175 62 65 100
Ackerstraße 163, D–10115 Berlin
infoberlin@michaelreid.com.au
Open: Tues–Sat, 11–5pm
michaelreid.com.au
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Christian Thompson, On Becoming, 2015
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MICHAEL REID AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD In 2012 Michael Reid noticed that Berlin attracts the poor, the talented and the brave. Counting himself amongst their number he decided that Berlin would be the perfect location for sharing and cultivating a current, contemporary view of Australian art, “beyond a post-colonial lens”. Michael Reid Galleries staged Murr-ma: Uncovering Aboriginal & Australian Contemporary Art, a major Australian group exhibition, in the Hamburger Bahnhof, a prominent exhibition space behind the museum of contemporary art (Museum für Gegenwart). The show presented the best of contemporary Australian artistic practice – Joseph McGlennon, Marian Drew, Adam Cullen and Deborah Paauwe; and indigenous Papunya Tula artists George Tjungurrayi, Johnny Yungut Tjupurrula and Ronnie Tjampitjinpa. Shortly afterwards Michael Reid galleries dived further into the Berlin arts scene by presenting key Australian works at Preview Berlin Art Fair. The positive reception that greeted these two exhibitions led to the 2013 establishment of
Top: Alesandro Ljubicic, Perylene Quin Rose, 2016
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Michael Reid Berlin in Ackerstraße on the ground
architect-designed gallery spaces, and a former
floor of an 1870s building that, miraculously, had
Jewish school in Auguststraße houses a multi-
survived the ravages of war, time and politics.
level arts precinct. Close by, in a reclaimed factory, the Berlin Biennale headquarters
Ackerstraße lies in the central district of Mitte,
shares premises with Kunst-Werke Institute for
home to significant landmarks such as the city
Contemporary Art. Known for its cutting-edge
Town Hall, Brandenburg Gate, Berlin Cathedral
contemporary art exhibitions, KW Institute has
and Fernsehturm (Television Tower). For 28
collaborated with MoMA PS1, the Venice Biennale
years, from 1961-1989, Ackerstraße was divided
and Documenta.
by the Wall. Today, at its corner with Bernauer Straße, a preserved portion of “no man’s
Impressive private contemporary art
land” forms the outdoor Berlin Wall Memorial
collections – Sammlung Hoffmann and Sammlung
(Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer), a tourist hot
Boros (in a converted bunker) – can be viewed by
spot offering a pervasive reminder of the once
appointment and the Me Collectors Room
divided city. Also within short walking distance
Berlin / Stiftung Olbricht offers an interesting take
of the gallery is the Protestant cemetery,
on the display of private art collections by inviting
Friedhof II der Sophiengemeinde Berlin,
prestigious art collectors to present their works
commemorating a host of notable composers
as part of a rotating exhibition program. Located
and artists, singers, philosophers and historians.
less than a kilometre away is the Museums Island, home to museums of antiquity, archaeology and
Mitte is perhaps best known for its arts and
art – the Pergamon Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie
cultural connections. During the 1990s the
and Altes Museum and Bode Museum.
Kunsthaus Tacheles (now closed), located on nearby Oranienburger Straße, was home to artists’ collectives, studios, workshops and a cinema. Today, tucked away courtyards reveal
Rachael Vance
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Bottom: Petrina Hicks, Venus, 2013
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S E E D O + S T A Y MICHAEL REID BERLIN
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ART
Berlin’s contemporary art scene is like no other;
focused institutions and astounding private
its quirks and contrasts forging a chaotic and
collections. As in Australia, photography is
undeniably electric mix. Berlin has become an
particularly prominent in Germany and this
unlikely magnet for artists and art lovers. After
is reflected in both the number and quality of
a century of violence and control it is now a city
photographic exhibitions held in Berlin.
defined by its colour and creativity. The peak times for the international art world There are commercial and artist-run spaces
glitterati to travel to Berlin centre around the
galore – the last count stopped at 400 and
annual Gallery Weekend Berlin in May [gallery-
noone seems to know (or care) anymore. Local
weekend-berlin.de] and Berlin Art Week every
graffiti artists have sought out every imaginable
September [berlinartweek.de].
surface – the majority of their work falling well outside the overused descriptor street art.
The selected locations below are a small cross-
From bare-bones exhibitions pulled together by
section – with my personal favourites highlighted.
struggling emerging artists, to the slick white
Please drop in at the gallery to say hello and find
cubes of global mega-galleries, Berlin has it all.
out more about what’s on during your visit.
The selection of museums is world class – wide-ranging public galleries; smaller, more
Left: Stephen Bush, Tapton House, 2015
Toby Meagher
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Left: Michael Reid Berlin Right: Joan Ross, Who is gonna clean up this mess, 2015 Opposite Page: Linde Ivimey, Luscinius, 2013
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P R I V AT E C O L L ECT I O N S The Boros Collection (Sammlung Boros)
Thomas Olbricht Collection
Private collection of big name Contemporary
to the present day. Thomas Olbricht often
Art (think Ai Weiwei) collector, Christian Boros.
shares the exhibition space with other invited
Housed in a very stylishly converted World
international private collectors. Follow
War II bunker with the private Boros family
your visit with a drink or dinner in beautiful
Bond villain-esque residence on the top floor.
Auguststraße.
Bunker, Reinhardtstraße 20, 10117 Berlin
Me Collectors Room Berlin/Olbricht Foundation, Auguststraße 68, 10117 Berlin
Open: Thurs–Sun Visits only possible by booking guided tours in advance through the website (book approximately 6 weeks ahead of your planned visit). sammlung-boros.de
TOBY’S PICK
Extensive collection from the Renaissance
Open: Tues–Sun 12.00pm–6.00pm Guided tours Sat 2.00pm me-berlin.com
Arthur de Ganay Collection
Hoffmann Collection
Large format photography collection
Contemporary art collection started in 1968
investigating landscape and architecture,
by Erika and Rolf Hoffmann and on display in
housed in a former jam factory on the banks
Erika Hoffmann’s home.
of the River Spree. Sammlung Hoffmann, Sophienstraße 21, 10178 Berlin Köpenicker Straße 10A, 10997 Berlin Open: Guided tours given monthly on Saturdays at 2pm. Register through the website. collectionarthurdeganay.com
Open: Saturdays 11.00am–4.00pm. Register for guided tours through the website a few days in advance. Sammlung-hoffmann.de
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A R T FA I R S
Right: Michael Peck, Scout, 2016
May
Leipzig – Spinnerei Rundgang
During Gallery Weekend – and at other times
On the first weekend of May each year, the
of the year by appointment – the 5000 square
Spinnerei opens it’s doors to over 15,000
metres of studio space at Lehderstraße 34
visitors. Once the largest cotton mill in Europe,
hosts a diverse and unique exhibition in which
the complex now houses 14 galleries, a communal
artists invite other artists to exhibit paintings,
arts centre, 140 artist studios (including Neo
sculpture, multi media, installations, film and
Rauch), as well as restaurants, fashion designers,
photography.
architects, printers, a goldsmith, a pottery, a film club, a porcelain manufacturer, and an arts
Gallery Weekend Berlin Lehderstraße 34, 13086 Berlin
supply store.An hour south of Berlin on the train and a very rewarding day-trip.
gallery-weekend-berlin.de | artistweekend.com spinnerei.de
September : Art Month in Berlin Berlin Art Week | berlinartweek.de abc – art berlin comtemporary artberlincontemporary.com Positions Berlin Art Fair | positions.de Open Street Ackerstraße | ackerstreet.de Community initiative (established by Michael Reid) during which Ackerstraße’s many studios, galleries and shops are open all day and into the evening, hosting talks and activities.
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Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate)
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MUSEUMS
Museuminsel (Museum Island) Unique, World Heritage-listed ensemble of five museums built on a small island in Berlin’s Spree River: Pergamon Museum, Altes Museum (fantastic Schinkel building), Neues Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie, Bode Museum. Also Schlossbrücke (Palace Bridge), Lustgarten (very nice for a walk) and the Berliner Dom.
Bodestraße, 10178 Berlin (Note: Bode Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie and Altes Museum closed on Mon) Mon–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat and Sun 10.00am–6.00pm smb.museum
Left: Museuminsel (Museum Island)
Berlin Kulturforum
Hamburger Bahnhof
Collection of cultural buildings including the
This Museum for Contemporary Art
New National Gallery (closed until 2019),
(Museum für Gegenwart) is housed Berlin’s
Philharmonie and Chamber Music Hall (home
former central station. One of the largest
to the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra), Neue
public collections of contemporary art in
Staatsbibliothek (New State Library), the
Berlin, it has a regularly changing exhibition
Kupferstichkabinett (graphic collection) and
program and also houses a very good café/
the Gemäldegalerie (one of the world’s most
restaurant run by the well-known German
important collections of Old Master works).
chef, Sarah Weiner.
Matthäikirchplatz 4–6, 10785 Berlin Closed on Mondays Tues–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat and Sun 11.00am–6.00pm smb.museum
Invalidenstraße 50–51, 10557 Berlin Closed on Mondays Tues–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat and Sun 11.00am–6.00pm smb.museum
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MUSEUMS
C/O Berlin Foundation
Haus am Waldsee
An exhibition centre for photography. Founded
A visit to the Haus am Waldsee, located
in 2000, it moved to Amerika Haus – the former
almost in Potsdam, is the perfect way to
US culture and information centre – in 2014.
escape the busy city and view the work of German, mostly Berlin-based, contemporary
Amerika Haus, Hardenbergstraße 22–24, 10623 Berlin Mon–Sun 11.00am–6.00pm
artists. Take a day trip and go on to the Schloss San Souci and the beautiful royal grounds at Potsdam.
co-berlin.org Argentinische Allee 30, 14163 Berlin TOBY’S PICK
Closed on Mondays Tues–Sun 10.00am–6.00pm hausamwaldsee.de
Museum für Fotografie and the Helmut Newton Foundation
The Kunstbibliothek’s Collection of Photography
The Museum of Photography in the
All forms of photography – from the dawn of
Charlottenburg district of Berlin, Germany, is
the photographic medium to artistic works
one of the Berlin State Museums administered
by contemporary photographers – displayed in
by the Prussian Cultural Heritage Foundation.
the newly restored Kaisersaal.
The Museum hosts a rotation of specialist exhibitions in addition to the permanent exhibition “Helmut Newton’s Private Property”.
Jebensstraße 2, 10623 Berlin Closed on Mondays Tues–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat-Sun 11.00am–6.00pm
Kunstbibliothek, Matthäikirchplatz 6 Closed on Mondays Tues–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Thurs 10.00am–8.00pm Sat-Sun 11.00am–6.00pm
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MEMORIALS
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Holocaust Memorial) No visit to Berlin should miss this understated and yet remarkably powerful public memorial. How can public art even come close to articulating such unspeakable losses? Somehow gridded slabs of concrete come close. This memorable space for contemplation is a stone’s throw from the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate and the Tiergarten.
Cora-Berliner-Straße 1, 10117 Berlin Field of Stelae accessible 24h a day Exhibition at the Information Centre open: April–September: Tues–Sun, 10.00am–8.00pm (last admission 7.15pm) October–March: Tues–Sun, 10.00am–7.00pm (last admission 6.15pm) stiftung-denkmal.de
Top: The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
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The Stasi Museum A huge complex that once housed the Ministry
Berlin Hohenschönhausen Prison Memorial
of State Security or Staatssicherheit (Stasi).
Concrete and barbed wire surround this
The building was stormed by protestors after
infamous GDR processing facility for political
the fall of the wall halting the destruction of 30
dissidents. Its detainees were kidnapped without
years of files and so preserving the records of
charge in non-descript delivery vans, isolated
a dark chapter in Berlin’s history. The building
and ‘corrected (read: psychologically tortured
is now also home to the organisation that
and humiliated). The kitsch and mundane
made the Stasi’s unfathomably dense archives
1960s interiors of the interrogation offices are
available to those on whom it spied.
terrifying in their bureaucratic simplicity. Tours are usually led by former inmates.
Ruschestraße 103, Haus 1, 10365 Berlin Mon–Fri 10.00am–6.00pm Sat, Sun, Holidays 12.00pm–6.00pm Tel: +49 30 553 68 54 stasimuseum.de
Genslerstraße 66, 13055 Berlin Open daily. Tours in English at 2.30pm en.stiftung-hsh.de
MICHAEL REID BERLIN
Bottom: Berlin Wall Memorial
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MEMORIALS
Berlin Wall Memorial
East Side Gallery
A mixture of parkland, memorial and museum
A great location for a walk along the
and the best site to take in the history of the
Spree on a sunny Berlin day. Iconic graffiti
wall. None of the commercial tackiness of
and messages of hope cover a section of
Checkpoint Charlie and much more enlightening
the former boundary between East and
than the East Side Gallery for the historically
West Berlin.
interested. Visitors can follow the line of the wall (Mauerweg), reading tales of escape whilst tracking the history of a divided city. A 70m long section of the original wall is maintained in its late 80s state, with a guard tower and the barbaric trip wires and traps of “no-man’s land”.
Bernauer Straße Open daily. berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de TOBY’S PICK
Mühlenstraße, 10243 Berlin Open all year round. eastsidegallery-berlin.de
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Below: Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall)
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WALK
Right: Siegessäule (Victory Column), Tiergarten
Körnerpark
Volkspark Humboldthain
Small, but very beautiful, palace garden in
A large ‘Bunker-berg’ (A Nazi anti-aircraft
Neukölln. Unlike Tiergarten, this space usually
bunker / man-made hill) just north of Mitte in
avoids heavy tourist traffic.
the ‘wild’ Wedding locality that offers good views back over Berlin. Great park for a
Schierker Straße 8, 12051 Berlin Open 10.00am–8.00pm (closed on Mondays)
Tiergarten Tiergarten, Berlin’s oldest, largest and most popular public park, is the perfect place for a walk or a picnic. Explore the numerous monuments and take a Velotaxi when you get tired.
Straße des 17. Juni 100, 10557 Berlin
quiet morning run. At Gesundbrunnen train station (Brunnenstraße 105) you can book underground tours of the Bunker.
Brunnenstraße, 13355 Berlin TOBY’S PICK
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S TA Y
Airbnb
25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin
Offering apartments across the city, Airbnb
Budapester Straße 40, 10787 Berlin
is a very popular alternative to commercial
Tel: +49 30 12 02 21 0
accommodation in Berlin.
bikini@25hours-hotels.com
airbnb.com
25hours-hotels.com/en/bikini/home/home.html
Casa Camper Berlin
Hotel am Steinplatz
Weinmeisterstraße 1, 10178 Berlin
Steinplatz 4, 10623 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 2000 34 10
Tel: +49 30 55 44 44 0
berlin@casacamper.com
contact.steinplatz@hotelsteinplatz.com
casacamper.com
hotelsteinplatz.com
Hotel de Rome
Berlin Gorki Apartments
Behrenstraße 37, 10117 Berlin
Weinbergsweg 25, 10119 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 460 60 90
Tel: +49 30 48 496 480
info.derome@roccofortehotels.com
booking@gorkiapartments.de
roccofortehotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/hotel-de-rome
gorkiapartments.de
TOBY’S PICK
Hotel Amano
Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Hackescher Markt
Auguststraße 43, 10119 Berlin Tel: +49 30 80 94 15 0
An der Spandauer Bruecke 11, 10178 Berlin
amano@amanogroup.de
Tel: +49 30 209 6980
amanogroup.de/hotels/amano
abhm@adina.eu
Soho House Berlin
tfehotels.com/brands/adina-apartment-hotels/adinaapartment-hotel-berlin-hackescher-markt TOBY’S PICK
Torstraße 1, 10119 Berlin Tel: +49 0 30 40 50 440 sohohouseberlin.com
Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Checkpoint Charlie Krausenstraße 35-36, 10117 Berlin Tel: +49 30 2007670 aber@adina.eu tfehotels.com/brands/adina-apartment-hotels/adinaapartment-hotel-berlin-checkpoint-charlie
Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Hauptbahnhof Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Hauptbahnhof Platz Vor dem Neuen Tor 6, 10115 Berlin Tel: +49 30 2000320 abhb@adina.eu tfehotels.com/brands/adina-apartment-hotels/adinaapartment-hotel-berlin-hauptbahnhof
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F O O D + D R I N K
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E AT
Mozzarella Bar & Bottega – Al Contadino Sotto le Stelle
Alpenstück Restaurant
Order an Aperol and the Caponata and
traditional southern German food. Great
you will not be disappointed!
schnitzel.
Auguststraße 34, 10119 Berlin Mon–Sat 11.30am–11.30pm Tel: +49 30 978 941 40 | info@alcontadino.eu bottega.alcontadino.eu
Gartenstraße 9, 10115 Berlin Daily 6.00pm–1.00am Tel: + 49 30 217 516 46 | info@alpenstueck.de alpenstueck.de
Modern and simple interpretations of
TOBY’S PICK
Katz Orange Pauly Saal
Relaxed, seasonal share plates in a smartly
Contemporary dining room in the former
Bergstraße 22, 10115 Berlin Daily from 6.00pm Tel: + 49 30 983 208 430 | info@katzorange.com katzorange.com
refectory of a Jewish Girls’ school. The 6 course set-menu changes frequently and the
refurbished Brewery.
adjoining bar is one of the best in the area. Auguststraße 11-13, 10117 Berlin Tues–Sat for lunch (12.00–2.00pm) and dinner (6.00–9.30pm) Tel: +49 30 3300 6070 | office@paulysaal.com paulysaal.com
Kopps (vegetarian) Linienstraße 94, 10115 Berlin Mon–Sun from 6.00pm weekend brunch 9.30am–4.00pm Tel: +4930 432 097 75 | kontakt@kopps-berlin.de kopps-berlin.de
Clärchens Ballhaus Very good pizzas and a fantastic beer garden in the Summer. Great for large groups and casual dining. Auguststraße 24, 10117 Berlin Daily from 11.00am (until the last guest leaves) Tel: +49 30 28 29 29 5 / +49 30 30 64 22 68 rungen@ballhaus.de | ballhaus.de
Lutter & Wegner This 200-year-old institution offers classic German hospitality and food and one of the best wine lists in Berlin. Beautiful location overlooking the old Gendarmenmarkt square. Alter Potsdamer Straße 5, 10785 Berlin Daily from 11am–3am Tel: +49 30 20 29 54 15 | info@l-w-berlin.de l-w-berlin.de TOBY’S PICK
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Right: Clärchens Ballhaus
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KAFFEE & FRÜHSTÜCK
If you’re craving good strong coffee these locations are part of the hip ‘3rd wave’ of coffee shops in Berlin, taking their espresso very seriously and bucking the trend of bad coffee in Berlin.
Distrikt Coffee
Bonanza Coffee Heroes
Great for coffee, breakfast and lunch.
Best coffee in Prenzlauer Berg.
Bergstraße 68, 10115 Berlin Daily from 8.30am Weekends from 9.30am info@distriktcoffee.de
Oderberger Strraße 35, 10435 Berlin Daily from 8.30am Weekends from 10.00am bonanzacoffee.de
The Barn
Strandbad Mitte
Coffee specialists and roasters.
More substantial breakfast and lunch
Auguststraße 58, 10119 Berlin Daily from 8.00am Weekends from 10.00am barn.bigcartel.com
offerings. Perfect for a leisurely morning. Kleine Hamburger Strraße 16, 10117 Berlin Daily from 9.00am–1.00am Tel: +49 30 24628963 www.strandbad-mitte.de
SÜßES
Ice cream is very much a ‘thing’ in Berlin – so don’t be afraid to treat yourself! Here are some of the coolest spots in town:
Hokey Pokey
Leck Mich
Beautifully presented, handmade ice cream.
100% Organic, hand-crafted ice cream.
Stargarder Strraße 73, 10437 Berlin Daily from 12.00pm–7.00pm
Ackerstraße 144, 10115 Berlin April–October, Mon–Sat 12.00pm–8.00pm
Eislabor Ice creamery and cakes. Raumerstraße 31, 10437 Berlin April–October, Mon-Sat 12.00pm–8.00pm
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BARS
Berliners certainly don’t mind a drink and some of the best watering holes are found by accident. When summer rolls around, don’t be afraid to grab a take-away bier from a local Spät Kauf (corner shop) and sit on the grass in the sun.
Meine Bar
TOBY’S PICK
The perfect Berlin bar. Effortlessly cool, smoke-stained walls, relaxed atmosphere and
Monkey Bar Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 40, 10787 Berlin Open: Mon–Sun: 12.00pm–1.00am Tel: +49 30 120221210
one of the best record collections in town. Augustraße 61, 10117 Berlin Open: Mon–Wed 1.00pm–2.00am, Thurs–Sat 1.00pm–3.00am, Sun 4.00pm–1.00am
Buck & Breck Behind a non-descript door hides this small and
Pauly Bar
intimate cocktail bar that appears on most lists
Cool, art deco bar in a former Jewish Girls
Brunnenstraße 177, 10119 Berlin Open: daily from 7.00pm Tel: +49 176 323 155 07 buckandbreck.com
school, adjoining the Pauly Saal restaurant. Auguststraße 11–13, 10117 Berlin Open: daily from 6.00pm Tel: +49 30 3300 6070
Nathanja & Heinrich Weichselstraße 44, 12045 Berlin Open: daily 3.00pm–3.00am kontakt@nathanja-heinrich.de
of the best cocktail bars in the world.
Newton Bar Charlottenstraße 57, 10117 Berlin Open: Sun–Wed 10.00am–3.00am Thurs–Sat 10.00am–4.00am Tel: +49 30 20 29 54 21 newton-bar.de
Prater Garten Seasonal, self-service beer garden – the oldest in Berlin – shaded by beautiful large chestnut trees. Kastanianallee 7–9, 10435 Berlin Open: Daily from 12.00pm pratergarten.de
Café am Neuen See Lichtensteinallee 2, 10787 Berlin Open: Mon–Fri from 11.00am, Sat and Sun from 10.00am Tel: +49 30 2544930 cafeamneuensee.de
Fischerhütte am Schlachtensee Fischerhüttenstraße 136, 14163 Berlin Open: Daily from 9.00am Tel: +49 30 80 49 83 10 fischerhuette-berlin.de
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BEER GARDENS
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FOOD & FLEA MARKETS Mauer Park Flea Market The largest and most well known markets. Clothes, records, antiques and lots to eat. Hundreds watch karaoke and buskers
Food & Farmers’ Market Arminushalle, Moabit Arminiusstraße 2–4, 10551 Berlin Open: Mon–Sat 8:00am–10:00 pm arminiusmarkthalle.com
during summer. Neighbouring Mauerpark was once the no man’s land separating East and West Berlin. Bernauer Straße 63–64, 13355 Berlin Sun 9.00am–6.00pm flohmarktimmauerpark.de
Street Food Thursday at Markethalle 9
Weekly Produce and Flea Market Fresh fruit and vegetables, meat and fish, flowers, clothes, flea market. Winterfeldtmarkt, Winterfeldtplatz, 10781 Berlin Wed 8.00am–2.00pm, Sat 8.00am–4.00pm
Farmers’ Market
Bustling indoor market with great food and wine. Eisenbahnstraße 42/43 10997 Berlin Open: Thurs 5.00pm–10.00pm markthalleneun.de/street-food-thursday
Seasonal fruit and vegetables, flowers, deli food, homemade arts and crafts. Organic market on Thursdays. Kollwitzplatz, 10405 Berlin Sat 9.00am–4.00pm, Thurs 12.00pm–7.00pm
Arkonaplatz Flea Market
Turkish Market
Really fantastic little Sunday market.
Street food, fresh produce and textiles in the
Books, records, second-hand clothing, GDR
centre of Berlin’s Turkish community.
trinkets, household goods and furniture.
Maybachufer, Neukölln, 12047 Berlin Open: Tuesday and Friday 11.00am–6.30pm tuerkenmarkt.de
Arkonaplatz 10435 Berlin Sun 10:00am–4:00pm TOBY’S PICK
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FA S H I O N
KaDeWe A Berlin institution and one of the largest department stores in Europe. Definitely don’t miss the food hall on the 7th floor – worth a visit in itself.
Kaufhaus des Westens, Tauentzienstraße 21–24, 10789 Berlin Open: Daily from 10.00am Tel: +49 30 2121 0 kadewe.de
Top: Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe)
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Hakescher Markt
Bikini Berlin
Explore the streets around the station – full
A concept shopping mall with designated
of hidden cafés, designer labels and local
spaces for up-and-coming designers. The
boutiques.
central hall boasts a panoramic window onto the monkey enclosure in the Berlin Zoo. Who’s
Mitte District, Berlin 1017
watching who?
Open: Daily 11.00am–8.00pm hackeschermarktberlin.de
Budapester Straße 38-50, 10787 Berlin Mall open: Mon–Sat 9.00am–9.00pm Sun 1.00pm–6.00pm
Mall of Berlin
Bikini Berlin Garden open everyday 9.00am–10.00pm Tel: +49 30 55 49 64 54 bikiniberlin.de
Leipziger Platz 12, 10117 Berlin Open: Mon–Sat 10.00am–9.00pm, Sun 1.00pm–7.00pm Tel: +49 30 206 217 70 mallofberlin.de
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Bottom: Bikini Berlin
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RECORD SHOPS
Coretex Records
Space Hall
Oranienstraße 3, 10997 Berlin
Zossener Straße 33, 10961 Berlin
Open: Mon–Fri 11.00am–8.00pm, Sat 11.00am–6.00pm
Open: Mon–Wed 11.00am–8.00pm, Thurs and Friday 11.00am–10.00pm, Sat 11.00am–8.00pm
Tel: +49 30 61 28 00 50 coretexrecords.com
Tel: +49 30 694 76 64 spacehall.de
Jazz Dreams
The Record Store Berlin
Hermann-Hesse-Straße 25, 13156 Berlin
Invalidenstraße 148, 10115 Berlin
Open: Mon–Fri 1.00pm–6.00pm, Sat 12.00pm–4.00pm
Open: Mon–Sat 12.00pm–8.00pm
Tel: +49 30 54 84 05 50 / +49 30 85 60 63 60 jazz-dreams.de
Tel: +49 30 2844 46 80 facebook.com/TheRecordStoreBerlin/
JAZZ
A-Trane
Quasimodo
Pestalozzistraße 105, 10625 Berlin
Kantstraße 12a, 10623 Berlin
Open: Sun–Thurs 8.00pm–1.00am, Fri and Sat 8.00pm onwards
Open: Restaurant Mon–Thurs 3.30pm–12.00am, Fri 3.30pm–1.00am, Sat 12.00pm–1.00am, Sun 12.00pm–12.00am
Tel: +49 30 313 25 50 a-trane.de
Doors open for concerts at 9.00pm Tel: + 49 30 318 045 60 quasimodo.de
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CLASSICAL MUSIC Pianosalon Christophori
Berlin Philharmonie
Concerts take place in a former boat factory
The home of classical music in Berlin.
“Uferhallen”, which is now a dusty piano
Check the website for tickets and times.
workshop. Very casual, very Berlin. Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1, 10785 Berlin Uferhallen, Uferstraße 8, 13357, Berlin Open: Concerts on different days. Check the website for tickets and times. konzertfluegel.com TOBY’S PICK
Tel: +49 30 254 88-0 berlin-philharmoniker.de
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Below: Berlin Philharmonie
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BEST BERLIN WEBSITES AND B LO G S
BEST APPS
Stil in Berlin
BVG FahrInfo Plus Berlin
Guide to the best places to eat, drink and
Up-to-date schedules and trip plans for Berlin’s
visit in Berlin.
public transport systems.
stilinberlin.de
Duolingo Slow Travel Berlin Guide to Berlin offering very good, not so touristy, tours. slowtravelberlin.com
Learn German for free – ‘far and away the best language-learning app’, The Wall Street Journal
Unlike City Guide Insider guides, comprehensive listings, personal
INDEX Berlin
recommendations and user-discoveries.
A guide to Berlin contemporary art galleries,
Street Art Berlin
openings and events. indexberlin.de
Guide to the hotspots of Berlin Street Art. Detailed descriptions of the best – including hidden – walls.
Foursquare Find food and entertainment options in your surrounding area.
BEST I N S TA G R A M
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@michaelreidberlin Toby Meagher for Michael Reid Berlin
@konaction Konrad, urban photographer
@juancamiloberlin Juan C. Roa, Berlin-based Colombian
@Michaelreidart Michael Reid (when in Berlin)
@thomas_k Thomas Kakareko, street photographer
@slowberlin Slow Berlin
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IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
Coffee & Breakfast
Sweets
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The Barn Strandbad Mitte Dining Mozzerella Bar & Bottega Katz Orange Alpenstück Restaurant Clärchens Ballhaus Pauly Saal Bars Meine Bar Buck & Breck Pauly Saal
Shop The Record Store Berlin Hackescher Markt Art Michael Reid Berlin Thomas Olbricht Collection Sammlung Hoffman Transit U Rosenthaler Platz: U8 U Weinmeisterstraße: U8 S Oranienburger Straße: S1, S2, S25
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MICHAEL REID S E E D O H E A R E AT BERLIN Written by Michael Reid Fabian Muir Rachael Vance Toby Meagher Joseph Marr Luzia Schmittmann Designer Mairead Gillespie Daisy Aylott Editor Emily Cloney
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Michael Reid Berlin
Tel: +49 0 175 62 65 100
Ackerstraße 163, D–10115 Berlin
infoberlin@michaelreid.com.au
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