Photographing ICELAND Volume 1 by Michael Ryan

A TRAVEL & PHOTO-LOCATION GUIDEBOOK TO THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES

PHOTOGRAPHING

ICELAND BY JAMES RUSHFORTH

VOLUME 1

REYKJAVÍK & THE GOLDEN CIRCLE • THE SOUTH COAST THE SOUTH EAST • THE EAST • THE NORTH WESTFJORDS • SNÆFELLSNES THE RING ROAD

PHOTOGRAPHING

ICELAND VOLUME 1 JAMES RUSHFORTH

First published in the United Kingdom in 2021 by fotoVUE. www.fotovue.com

Copyright © fotoVUE Limited 2021. Text and Photography: Copyright © James Rushforth 2021. Foreword: Copyright © ?????????????????????? 2021. Additional photography: Gary Beff, Michael Blum, Egill Bjarnason, Sveinn Birkir Bjornsson, Sebastian Boring, Sven Broeckx, Ruedi Häberli, Hugo Healy, Friðþjofur Helgason, Stuart Holmes, Marius Kastečkas, Ben Klea, Asuri Saranathan Lakshmanan, Robert Lukeman, Jacob Meissner, Fabian Møller, NASA, Anders Nyberg, Jonatan Pie, Einar Reynis, Martin Sammtleben, Christian Schmidt, Judith Scott, Lizzie Shepherd, Sigurjón Sigurðsson, Michelle Spollen, Annie Spratt, Fredrik Strømme, Geraldine Westrupp, Doruk Yemenici and Andrew Yu. James Rushforth has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher, except for the use of brief quotations in a book review. TRADEMARKS: fotoVUE and the fotoVUE wordmark are the registered trademarks of fotoVUE Ltd. Publisher: Mick Ryan – fotoVUE Ltd. Design and production by Ryder Design – www.ryderdesign.studio Layout by James Rushforth. Copy and proof editing by Lynne Hempton. Nordic language advisor: Roy Hodson. Map Overlay Graphics: Mark Crowther, Mick Ryan, James Rushforth. All maps within this publication were produced by Don Williams of Bute Cartographics with the help of James Rushforth. Maps based on data from National Land Survey of Iceland © 2019. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-1-9160145-5-8 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The author, publisher and others involved in the design and publication of this guide book accept no responsibility for any loss or damage users may suffer as a result of using this book. Users of this book are responsible for their own safety and use the information herein at their own risk. Users should always be aware of weather forecasts, conditions, time of day and their own ability before venturing out. Front cover: An exposure bracketed image of an ice cave entrance in the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 100, various at f/14, tripod. Feb. Rear cover left: Looking north-east over Reykjavík towards Mount Esja. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 165mm, ISO 100, 1/160s at f/6.3. Feb. Rear cover centre: A magical display of the northern lights above the Vestrahorn in south-east Iceland. Canon 5DIV, 16–35mm at 16mm, tripod. Mar. © Marius Kastečkas. Rear cover right: Sunrise at Diamond beach. Nikon D810, 20mm, ISO 100, 5s at f/16. BP X4 6-stop CPL, tripod. Oct. Opposite: Sunrise at Breiðamerkursandur in South-Eastern Iceland. Nikon D7000, 11–16mm at 14mm, ISO 100, 5s at f/9. 6-stop ND, tripod. Oct. Printed and bound in Europe by Latitude Press Ltd.

“Af góðu upphafi vonast góður endir” – “A good beginning makes a good ending” ICELANDIC PROVERB

Locations overview

Hornbjarg

Bolungarvík Hnífsdalur

Sauðárkrókur

Hólmavík

11 12

13-16 Reykjahlíd Mývatn

iði

Faxaflói Akranes

Garður Sandgerði

Keflavík Hafnir

Álftanes Vogar Njarðvik

1-4

Hafnarfjörður

Grindavík

Þorlákshöfn

8 Gullfoss

Laugarvatn

12 11 14 13

Mosfellsbær Þingvallavatn

Geysir

Flúðir

Hveragerði Selfoss

Hekla 1491m

Hella

Hvolsvöllur

Vestmannaeyjar

900 m

Surtsey

600 m 300 m

100 m 0

Kilometres

1-3

Westman Islands

ök

1666m 15

Mý

Eyjafjallajökull

5 6 7

13 16

Vík 8-9 10-11 12

Dyrhólaey

1 1

Gerpir

Reyð

arfjö

6-8

3 Ingólfshöfði

10 11 9

rður

Stöðvarfjörður Breiðdalsvík Djúpivogur Papey

Hvannadalshnúkur 2 2110m 5

Neskaupstaður

Eskifjörður

Snæfell 1833m

l u l ö k j a t n

Laki

10 817m 5 17 3 7 6 11 8 9 14 13Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Laugarás

Eyrarbakki Stokkseyri

Þórisvatn

6 3

Fáskrúðsfjörður

Kverkfjöll 1929m

Bárðarbunga 2009m

Reyðarfjörður

Askja 1510m

jö

Reykjavík

Borgarnes

Seyðisfjörður

Egilsstaðir 2

12 11

Ho f s j ö k u l l

á ur rð

Bakkagerði

Ód

du an ar

8 6-7

t va

Grundarfjörður

Snæfellsjökull

14 15

11-13

7 8

Ólafsvík

Hellissandur

Búðardalur

Vopnafjörður

Fjöllu

1 2

Bland

Stykkishólmur

rð

fjö

a pn

9-10

Laugarbakki

8 6 7

Krafla 818m

Varmahlíð

Hvammstangi

Bre i d f j ö r ð u r

4 5

lsá á

Reykhólar

Akureyri 20

Húsavík

Jöku

Svalbarðseyri

Blönduós

Drangsnes

Flatey

Hrísey Grenvík

Árskógssandur Hauganes

Hofsós

Skagaströnd

Gláma 920m

lfan

Dalvík

Þorshöfn

Skjá

ðu

Ólafsfjörður

rðu

gafjö

ör

Bíldudalur Tálknafjörður Patreksfjörður

fjörð

rfj

Ska

jö

Þingeyri

Siglufjörður

Súðavík

Eyja

Ísafjörður

Kópasker

rð rfjö

úp

ðu

r dj

Flateyri

Raufarhöfn

Þi st ilf jö r

O xa

rð

Suðureyri

áð

Ís

Grímsey

14 13

Höfn

00 00 00 00 00

Golden Circle introduction �� 05 Golden Circle – Þingvellir / Thingvellir National Park �� 06 Golden Circle – Brúarfoss waterfall �� 07 Golden Circle – Geysir geothermal area �� 08 Golden Circle – Gullfoss waterfall �� 09 Gjáin valley �� 10 Háifoss & Granni waterfalls ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Reykjanes introduction �� 11 Reykjanes – Þríhnúkagígur – inside the volcano �� 12 Reykjanes – Krýsuvíkurvegur fish drying facility �� 13 Reykjanes – Kleifarvatn lake �� 14 Reykjanes – Krýsuvík – Seltún hot springs �� 15 Reykjanes – Bláa Lónið / Blue Lagoon �� 16 Reykjanes – Gunnuhver hot springs �� 17 Reykjanes – Valahnúkamöl cliffs & Reykjanesviti ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

CHAPTER 2 – SOUTH ICELAND Vestmannaeyjar / Westman Islands introduction �� 01 Vestmannaeyjar / Westman Islands – North Heimaey �� 02 Vestmannaeyjar / Westman Islands – East & Central �� 03 Vestmannaeyjar / Westman Islands – South Heimaey �� 04 Seljalandsfoss & Gljúfrabúi waterfalls �� 05 Skógafoss waterfall �� 06 Kvernufoss / Sigurfoss waterfall �� 07 Sólheimasandur DC-3 (C-117) plane wreck �� 08 Dyrhólaey, Háey – lighthouse �� 09 Dyrhólaey, Lágey – Kirkjufjara beach �� 10 Reynisfjara beach & Reynisdrangar sea stacks �� 11 Mount Reynisfjall �� 12 Vík í Mýrdal village – Víkurfjara beach & Víkurkirkja �� 13 Eldhraun / Þjóðvegur lava field �� 14 Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

CHAPTER 3 – SOUTH EAST ICELAND 01 Skaftafell Park & Svartifoss waterfall �� 00 02 Svínafellsjökull glacier �� 00 03 Hofskirkja Turf church �� 00

04 Ingólfshöfði cape �� 05 Fjallsárlón glacial lake �� 06 Jökulsárlón glacial lake �� 07 Breiðamerkursandur / Diamond Ice Beach �� 08 Breiðamerkurjökull ice caves �� 09 Fífutjörn lake �� 10 Heinabergslón glacial lake & Heinaberg Tundra �� 11 Reindeer �� 12 Höfn village & surroundings �� 13 Stokksnes beach & Mount Vestrahorn �� 14 Skútafoss waterfall ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

CHAPTER 4 – EAST ICELAND 01 Djúpivogur village & Papey Island �� 02 Litlanesfoss & Hengifoss waterfalls �� 03 Mjóifjörður fjord �� 04 Fardagafoss waterfall �� 05 Gufufoss waterfall �� 06 Seyðisfjörður village & surroundings �� 07 Vatnsskarð Eystra mountain pass �� 08 Stórurð boulders & Dyrfjöll mountains �� 09 Borgarfjörður Eystri – Hafnarhólmi Bird Sanctuary �� 10 Víknaslóðir hiking & F946 �� 11 Stuðlagil canyon �� 12 Möðrudalur / Fjalladýrð farm settlement �� 13 Bustarfell turf farmhouse �� 14 Fuglabjarganes Peninsula & coastal stacks ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

CHAPTER 5 – NORTH ICELAND 01 Langanes Peninsula �� 00 02 Rauðanes Point �� 00 03 Heimskautsgerðið / The Arctic Henge �� 00 Jökulsárgljúfur introduction �� 04 Jökulsárgljúfur – Ásbyrgi canyon �� 05 Jökulsárgljúfur – Hljóðaklettar Echo Rocks �� 06 Jökulsárgljúfur – Selfoss, Dettifoss & Hafragilsfoss waterfalls – West Bank �� 07 Jökulsárgljúfur – Selfoss & Dettifoss waterfalls – East Bank �� 08 Jökulsárgljúfur – Hafragilsfoss waterfall – East Bank �� 09 Krafla / Leirbotn power station �� 10 Leirhnjúkur volcano & Leirhnjúkshraun lava field �� 11 Víti crater / Stóra Víti-Maar �� 12 Hverir / Hverarönd hot springs & Mount Námafjall ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Mývatn introduction �� 13 Mývatn – Grjótagjá cave �� 14 Mývatn – Hverfjall Crater / Hverfell crater �� 15 Mývatn – Dimmuborgir lava fields �� 16 Mývatn – other ideas �� 17 Húsavík town �� 18 Grímsey Island �� 19 Goðafoss waterfall �� 20 Akureyri �� 21 Tröllaskagi Peninsula �� 22 Glaumbær church & turf farmhouse �� 23 Kálfshamarsvík lighthouse �� 24 Hvítserkur sea stack ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

CHAPTER 6 – WESTFJORDS 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10

Garðar BA 64 shipwreck �� Patreksfjörður & Ólafsviti lighthouse �� Rauðasandur / Rauðisandur beach �� Látrabjarg cliffs �� Dynjandi waterfalls �� Dýrafjörður Fjord & Þingeyri village �� Bolungarvík – Ósvör Museum �� Hornstrandir Nature Reserve �� Djúpavík village & herring factory �� Norðurfjörður & Reykjaneshyrna mountain ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

CHAPTER 7 – WEST ICELAND & SNÆFELLSNES 01 Gamli Vitinn / Akranes lighthouses �� 02 Hraunfossar waterfalls �� 03 Langárfoss waterfall �� 04 Búðakirkja / Búðir church �� 05 Arnarstapi Village & cliffs �� 06 Hellnakirkja / Hellnar church �� 07 Hellnar Beach & Baðstofa cave �� 08 Lóndrangar Sea Stack & Þúfubjarg cliffs �� 09 Djúpalónssandur beach & Dritvík Bay �� 10 Svöðufoss waterfall �� 11 Hálsvaðall Lagoon & Kirkjufell mountain �� 12 Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall & Kirkjufell mountain �� 13 Orca & whale watching – Grundarfjörður & Ólafsvík �� 14 Skeiðholt beach �� 15 Berserkjahraun lava field & Berserkjagata Highway �� 16 Flatey Island ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

00 00 00

LOCATIONS OVERVIEW

Introduction

“ I have fantasies of going to Iceland, never to return.” EDWARD GOREY

Rightly regarded as one of the world’s most photogenic destinations, Iceland needs little introduction. This literal land of ice and fire perfectly epitomises our constantly evolving planet, and there are few countries so clearly defined by, and inextricably linked with, the elemental forces of nature. Here the incessant wind howls over this diverse land of volcanoes, glittering ice caps and basalt black deserts, the sparse vegetation and moss-blanketed lava fields standing out all the brighter for their dark surroundings. Nestled between the extensive fjord systems and characteristic layered mountains lies a network of quaint fishing villages, picturesque hamlets and turf churches built in a style that has not changed for hundreds of years. A realm of epic sagas, daring deeds of survival and mythic folklore, Iceland is as culturally rich as it is aesthetically resplendent. With Viking ancestry and a fascinating history, Icelanders have stubbornly battled ferocious arctic weather, volcanic activity and inhospitable conditions for a millennium, before finally emerging as one of the world’s most progressive nations. Today the country’s inhabitants demonstrate a wonderfully dry sense of humour, are disarming in their honesty, and inspire through their resilience, creativity and work ethic. Over the last decade I have had the pleasure of exploring this magical island through day and night, in all seasons, climbing, ski mountaineering and walking. My discoveries and favourite places are detailed in this guide, both the classic and seldom frequented. I hope you find it a useful resource that serves as a creative catalyst for your own work, inspiring visitors to discover new locations and vantage points in a land that offers nearly endless creative potential. I wish you all a safe, productive and, most of all, enjoyable trip to Iceland.

James Rushforth January 2021

Opposite: The otherworldly crater row north-west of Hnausapollur. DJI P4P, 24mm, ISO 100, 1/500s at f/5. Aug. Overleaf: A Dacia Duster drives along the southern ring road during winter. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 250, 1/640s at f/7.1. Mar.

James exploring an ice cave deep under Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. Nikon D850, 14–24mm at 14mm, ISO 1000, 1s at f/8, tripod. Mar.

INTRODUCTION

ICELAND LOGISTICS

Where to stay / accommodation

The recent surge in visitors to Iceland in the wake of the Eyjafjallajökull eruption of 2010 has led to the rapid overhaul of touristic infrastructure, particularly accommodation. There is now a wide range of hotels, guesthouses and apartments to be found throughout the larger urban areas, with an ever-increasing variety of rural accommodation options geared towards sustainable tourism. Campsites can be found liberally dotted throughout the country and there is a staggering array of motorhomes and converted vans available for hire.

Camping & campsites Sleeping under canvas is the cheapest way of travelling within Iceland but requires something of a masochistic sense of humour and a tent that is up to the challenge. With infamously challenging weather conditions, even in the summer camping just below the Arctic Circle should not be underestimated. For those up to the challenge Iceland has an excellent campsite network, boasting over 170 well-distributed sites. For a complete list and a map of locations visit www.tjalda.is Booking in advance is generally not required, allowing campers to be flexible with their travel arrangements. Campsites are generally open from April until September, and charge between 1000 ISK and 2000 ISK per person, per night. For those planning an extended stay, a 28-night camping card can be bought for 20,000 ISK from www.utilegukortid.is

Unfortunately there is no getting around the fact that despite this diversity, Icelandic accommodation is universally expensive and somewhat basic when compared with similarly priced European offerings. For this reason it is worth spending some time carefully researching the various options to ensure a cost-effective and productive trip. For those planning to visit in peak season between June and August, booking well in advance is recommended.

Wild camping Wild camping in Iceland is the source of much confusion, frustration and subsequent animosity. At time of writing wild camping in a tent is permitted, providing:

Hotels Widely regarded as the premium accommodation in Iceland, hotels generally offer the best service and privacy, often with small restaurants offering breakfast and dining options. Once again there is a wide range of choices, from small family-run businesses to large chains like the Fosshotel, Icelandair and Hilton hotels. All of these can be found on www.booking.com, which provides the best resource for navigating the various options.

Apartments

• You only stay one night. • Tents are pitched out of sight on uncultivated public land, unless express permission has been granted by the landowner. • You are not in a national park (Þingvellir, Vatnajökull or Snæfellsnes). • There are no convenient campsites nearby. • Visitors stay in a tent – sleeping in vehicles is not permitted anywhere in Iceland.

Apartments are ideal for large groups who prefer self-catering. These are plentiful in Reykjavík and Akureyri, with limited options in the more rural regions. Once the exclusive domain of www.airbnb.com, there is now also a good selection on www.booking.com

In reality this makes wild camping extremely difficult without extensive local knowledge and research, and even then the rules are subject to change. If in any doubt it is better to contribute to the local economy by staying at one of Iceland’s official campsites.

Hostels

Motorhomes & campervans

There are some 30 hostels found throughout the country, all run by HI, the Icelandic Hostel Association. The predominantly dorm-based accommodation is great for travellers on a budget and for those looking to socialise with like-minded visitors. The lodgings are well maintained with excellent facilities. For more information and to book visit www.hostel.is

For photographers, travel by campervan is both cost-effective and efficient, allowing the best weather and light to be spontaneously followed. Note that wild camping in a van is not permitted anywhere in Iceland and users must park on a designated campsite to sleep. A comprehensive list of campervan rental agencies is provided in Appendix A on page §§§.

Guesthouses & farmstays

Mountain huts

Staying with a local family or helping out with the day-to-day running of a traditional farm undoubtedly provides the best cultural experience. There are a number of properties offering shared accommodation on www.airbnb.com, and www.heyiceland.is specialises in farm holidays and sustainable tourism.

Iceland’s mountain huts are predominantly found in the interior and are operated by the Ferðafélag Íslands Touring Association (www.fi.is) and Útivist (www.utivist.is).

The Panorama Glass Lodge near Hella in Southern Iceland. Visit www.panoramaglasslodge.com for more information.

WHERE TO STAY / ACCOMMODATION

Seasonal highlights – when to visit Iceland

Located so close to the Arctic Circle, Iceland experiences a huge seasonal variation with contrasting weather, temperatures and daylight. So dramatic are the disparities between summer and winter it is often hard to believe it is the same country. Careful consideration is therefore required when planning a trip, as while there is no best time to visit, the time of year will greatly affect both the logistical access to photographic locations and the prevailing landscape characteristics found upon arrival.

Sun elevation

Daylight hours

Sun position

Situated between 64° and 66° north, the amount of daylight oscillates wildly in Iceland, with dark winters and perpetually bright summers. This transition happens quickly, with an additional 10 minutes of light added every day up to solstice, and vice versa as the nights draw in. As light and its interaction with the surrounding environment is fundamental to photography, trips need to be planned with this significant variation in mind.

The extreme latitude also ensures the seasonal variation in sun position is equally dramatic, particularly in the north of Iceland. At 65° north, the sun sets at 200° on the shortest day, a stark contrast to the 340° seen at summer solstice. This staggering annual variation of 140° warrants careful consideration, especially for photographers who wish to capture a specific scene or viewpoint.

With increased distance from the equator, the tract of the sun becomes flatter, effectively staying nearer the horizon throughout the day. This results in softer light and longer shadows, both of which are ideal for photography. It also means that the golden and blue hour last significantly longer than in more modest latitudes. This effect is most clearly demonstrated in winter when the sun never rises more than 5° above the horizon, essentially providing golden hour light throughout the day.

Sun graph for the Reykjavik area 22 20 18

time

Summer solstice 21st June longest daylight hours 21.08 hrs

14 12

Winter solstice 21st December shortest daylight hours 4.07 hrs

10 source: timeanddate.com

08 06 04 02 00 Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

July

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Solar Noon: When the sun reaches its highest point for the day. Night

Astronomical Twilight

Nautical Twilight

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS – WHEN TO VISIT ICELAND

Civil Twilight

Daylight

Solar Midnight: The opposite of Solar Noon when the sun is at its lowest point and night is equidistant from dusk and dawn.

SUNRISE AND SUNSET POSITION THROUGH THE YEAR on the 15th of each month

September

Feb

us t Au g

ry rua

m ve No

Jan ua ry Dec em ber

nu ar y cem be r

Ma y

Either whilst in the field or planning with a map, orientate this book north/south and using the Sun Position Compass you will get an approximate direction of where the sun will rise and set each month. Data for Reykjavik, Iceland (64.1466° N, 21.9426° W)

SUN ELEVATION THROUGH THE YEAR The approximate elevation of the sun above the horizon (in degrees) at midday on the 15th of each month.

Octo ber Feb rua ry

ber

Octo

June 49° May 45°/July 47° April 36°/Aug 40° Mar 24°/Sept 29° Feb 13°/Oct 17° Jan 5°/Nov 7° Dec 2.8°

r be m ve y r No ua Jan er emb Dec

March

rua

r be m y ve uar No Jan ber cem De

Feb

ril Ap b m Septe er

September

March October

em ov

y Jul

September

March ber Octo ry rua Feb

ril Ap

June

Apri l

Au gu st Apr il

g Au

ay us

June

y Jul

Au g

July Ma y

SUNRISE AND SUNSET POSITION THROUGH THE YEAR on the 15th of each month

June

SUN POSITION COMPASS FOR AKUREYRI

June July

SUN POSITION COMPASS FOR REYKLAVIK

SUN ELEVATION THROUGH THE YEAR The approximate elevation of the sun above the horizon (in degrees) at midday on the 15th of each month.

AVERAGE SUNRISE/SUNSET TIMES AND LENGTH OF DAYLIGHT HOURS

June 48° May 44°/July 46° April 34°/Aug 38° Mar 22°/Sept 27° Feb 12°/Oct 16° Jan 4°/Nov 6° Dec 1°

AVERAGE SUNRISE/SUNSET TIMES AND LENGTH OF DAYLIGHT HOURS

Month

Sunrise

Sunset

Daylight

Month

Sunrise

Sunset

Daylight

January

10:54am

4:20pm

5.26hrs

January

10:59am

3:44pm

4.45hrs

February

9:22am

6:02pm

8.40hrs

February

9:15am

5:39pm

8.24hrs

March

7:45am

7:29pm

11.43hrs

March

7:31am

7:13pm

11.42hrs

April

5:55am

9:02pm

15.06hrs

April

5:33am

8:53pm

15.20hrs

May

4:12am

10:38pm

18.25hrs

May

3:38am

10:42pm

19.04hrs

June

2:57am

11:59pm

21.02hrs

June

1:41am

12:43pm

23.05hrs

July

3:41am

11:23pm

19.41hrs

July

2:56am

11:36pm

20.40hrs

August

5:19am

9:42pm

16.23hrs

August

4:43am

9:38pm

16.45hrs

September

6:51am

7:52pm

13.01hrs

September

6:33am

7:39pm

13.06hrs

October

8:18am

6:07pm

9.48hrs

October

8:08am

5:46pm

9.38hrs

November

9:57am

4:26pm

6.29hrs

November

9:56am

3:36pm

6.29hrs

December

11:16am

3:29pm

4.12hrs

December

11:32am

2:43pm

3.11hrs

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS – WHEN TO VISIT ICELAND

Suggested itineraries

Iceland’s incredible diversity makes choosing where to go one of the hardest aspects of planning a trip. An understandably common mistake is to try to pack too much into an overly ambitious itinerary. While it is theoretically possible to drive around the ring road in 17 hours, the reality is that it requires at least a week to do it photographic justice. The following pages provide a list of suggestions for trips of varying lengths, starting at Keflavík Airport. Note that some of the itineraries are only accessible during summer and that the drive distances are for the shortest route.

24 hour stopover Itinerary A – Blue Lagoon & Reykjavík – The Classic (120km) From Keflavík International Airport to the Blue Lagoon for a relax, before exploring the many viewpoints of Reykjavík. This itinerary can be done easily using public transport.

Itinerary B – Reykjanes & Reykjavík – The Road Less Travelled (162km) A circuit of the Reykjanes peninsula, starting at Valahnúkamöl and Gunnuhver, before driving to Reykjavík along RTE-42, passing Seltún and Kleifarvatn, provides a perfect day.

Itinerary C – Mount Esja & Reykjavík – The Hiker (134km) Drive straight to the Mount Esja parking area (lat/long 64.20885, -21.71585) and hike the mountain to gain excellent views over Reykjavík and the Reykjanes peninsula, before retuning via the capital. This itinerary is best done in summer during good weather conditions.

3 days Itinerary A – Reykjavík & Golden Circle – The Classic (375km) This popular circuit can be done using public transport and is covered on page §§§.

Itinerary B – Vík í Mýrdal & South Coast – The Classic Reloaded (450km) Drive straight to Vík í Mýrdal where the south coast waterfalls, sea stacks and black beaches can be explored. For the ambitious it is possible to avoid the crowds by making a short trip across to the Westman Islands.

Itinerary C – Snæfellsnes Peninsula – The Connoisseur (530km) With some careful planning there is just enough time to make a circuit of the beautiful and seldom-frequented Snæfellsnes peninsula. Take care in the winter when the driving conditions can be very challenging. The beautiful shapes and textures of Svínafellsjökull glacier as seen from a light aircraft. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 800, 1/2000s at f/8. May.

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES

An 8 image panorama of the Múlaa river flowing down towards the south coast. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/80s at f/13. Aug.

One week Itinerary A – Golden Circle, Vík & Jökulsárlón – The Classic (968km) This incredibly popular circuit around the Golden Circle and along the south coast takes in many of Iceland’s classic locations; just don’t go expecting solitude.

Itinerary B – Akureyri, Mývatn & Húsavík – Northern Highlights (1076km) The initial six hour drive from Keflavík to the north can be avoided by taking an internal flight to Akureyri and then renting a vehicle upon arrival. Once there Mývatn is the perfect base for exploring this quiet and beautiful region.

Itinerary C – Reykjanes & Vestmannaeyjar – Off the Beaten Track (444km) It is not always necessary to drive long distances to experience some of Iceland’s more remote areas. This itinerary starts with an explore of Reykjavík and the Reykjanes peninsula, before getting the ferry across to the seldom frequented, yet stunning Westman Islands. The winter sun rises behind Hellnar church on the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 150mm, ISO 100, 1/500s at f/2.8. Feb.

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES

The custodian of the Ósvör Museum in Bolungarvík wearing a traditional sheepskin suit typical of 19th century Icelandic fisherman. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 50mm, ISO 100, 1/250s at f/8. Jul.

ICELANDIC CULTURAL HISTORY

Icelandic cultural history

Following the country’s independence, Iceland expanded its territorial waters from four to 12 nautical miles, a change of legislation that sparked the first of the so-called ‘cod wars’, a series of militarised disputes with Britain over fishing rights. There would be three such conflicts between 1958 and 1976, as Iceland continued to extend its exclusive economic zone. Each time Iceland threatened to leave NATO, forcing Britain to acquiesce or risk losing a key strategic base during the Cold War period. Boats were rammed, fishing lines cut and proverbial sabres rattled, but thankfully there were no direct fatalities throughout the disputes. To this day Icelanders still enjoy reminding visitors that they won three contemporary wars and defeated the might of the British navy without suffering any casualties. Such exclusivity meant the industry could now be carefully managed to avoid overfishing and a quota system based on a total allowable catch was introduced in 1990 to regulate stocks. The late 20th century saw Iceland rise to prominence on the world stage. Extensive campaigning for women’s rights during 1975 made global news, as did the Reykjavík Summit in 1986 as the world anxiously waited for the ballistic missile talks between U.S. president Ronald Reagan and the General Secretary of the Soviet Union Mikhail Gorbachev to conclude. The civilian terminal at Keflavík International Airport was officially opened the following year, sparking the first proper influx of visitors drawn by internationally-acclaimed artists like Björk and Sigur Rós. At the turn of the millennium extensive free market reforms gave Iceland an unprecedented level of economic freedom, the country topped the Human Development Index and Reykjavík was awarded European Capital of Culture status by the European Union – the future looked bright. Unfortunately this prosperity was short-lived as the global financial crisis of 2008 brought the Icelandic nation to its knees. Rapid expansion and overspending by the country’s banks meant the accrued debt amounted to 11 times the entire GDP of the nation, or 20 times the annual state budget. The subsequent slump in the global economy wiped out 80% of the Icelandic stock market as the banking industry collapsed. Half of Iceland’s businesses became legally bankrupt over the next three days as the nation’s residents took to the streets of Reykjavík in protest. Despite receiving a $4.6 billion dollar bailout from both the US and Scandinavia, Iceland made the surprising decision not to back its three primary banks, Glitnir, Kaupthing and Landsbankinn, instead letting them fall and holding the upper echelons of the finance sector accountable. A total of 36 senior figures and bankers were eventually jailed for a combined total of 96 years as the finance sector was completely overhauled.

A statue of famous Icelandic explorer Leif Erikson stands outside Hallgrímskirkja in central Reykjavík. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 400, 1/80s at f/8. Jun.

Intriguingly the country’s salvation came in the form of a major volcanic event during 2010, as the explosive eruption of Eyjafjallajökull hurled gas and ash 5km into the troposphere, halting northern hemisphere air traffic for six days and disrupting travel for 10 million passengers. While this may not sound like an ideal marketing strategy, the global media coverage of Eyjafjallajökull, with its stunning mountain backdrop, provided the perfect advertisement for the country’s picturesque landscapes. The following year tourism was up 19% as 565,600 visitors arrived to bolster the turbulent economy. Word of the country’s multifaceted appeal spread and the exponential growth continued, with over 2.2 million travellers arriving in Keflavík International Airport during 2017, a number six times greater than the entire Icelandic population and a 355% increase since the Eyjafjallajökull eruption in 2010. Tourism now accounted for 40% of the country’s export income and 10% of the GDP, overtaking fishing and aluminium to become the island’s primary industry. This number has steadily reduced since 2017, first due to the decline of national airline Wow Air, and then the grounding of Icelandair’s Boeing 737 MAX fleet. While this has had obvious financial implications for those working in the hospitality sector, the flattening of the growth curve has generally been regarded as a positive step towards developing an environmental and economic equilibrium through sustainable tourism practices, a key approach for a nation whose primarily appeal is that of its unspoilt wilderness.

ICELANDIC CULTURAL HISTORY

Icelandic flora

There are over 1500 unique wild plants in Iceland, the majority of which are low-growing vascular species which have adapted to the hostile environment found so close to the Arctic Circle. This relatively modest number, especially when compared with their Scandinavian and European counterparts, is due to the island’s isolation and unfavourable growing conditions caused by volcanic activity, outlet glacier flooding, past overgrazing and deforestation. In fact only one quarter of the country is vegetated, with strict altitudinal zonation and very little plantlife found above 700m. Thick mosses and lichens dominate the lowland lava fields, with 606 species competing for dominance. Of these, the woolly fringe moss is the most prevalent, blanketing huge areas of the south and west in a carpet of rich green. This strange ecosystem is home to the Tardigrada, a near-microscopic eight-legged animal which is virtually indestructible. Affectionately known as water bears or moss piglets, these bizarre creatures can even survive in the vacuum of space. Unfortunately their habitat is considerably less robust and visitors must take care not to walk on the fragile moss which is easy damaged. Though the exact figure is the source of much debate, it is believed that between 25 and 40% of Iceland was covered in forest prior to the first permanent settlers’ arrival in 874 AD. Wood was a much-needed commodity and mass deforestation quickly followed. Today only 2% of the original birch, rowan, willow and aspen woodland remains. These trees are generally small, seldom growing over two metres, leading to the ever-prevalent Icelandic joke, “What do you do if you’re lost in the wood? – Stand up”. Such a drastic reduction in forest cover has led to widespread desertification, a process exacerbated by both harsh weather and natural disturbances. Significant resources are now being spent on reforestation efforts, and over 85 foreign tree species have been introduced in an ongoing effort to increase the woodland diversity and prevent erosion. Similarly the Nootka lupine was also imported to Iceland from North America in the mid-20th century in an attempt to stabilise Iceland’s shallow and wind-susceptible top soil. Famous for their beautiful flowers which bloom through June and July, this invasive species has since flourished, and there are now concerns that the plant is homogenising the natural flora of Iceland. Other notable and photogenic species include mountain avens, Iceland’s national flower, forget-me-not and arctic thyme.

ICELANDIC FLORA

Icelandic fauna

As in the case of Iceland’s flora, the geographical position of the country and inhospitable conditions associated with the last ice age have stripped the fauna back to some 2000 hardy terrestrial and freshwater animal species. Of these the arctic fox is Iceland’s only native land mammal, crossing the frozen seas from mainland Greenland and Scandinavia at the end of the last Ice Age. Perfectly adapted to the subarctic climate, this tenacious little predator boasts the most thermally efficient coat in the animal kingdom, trumping even the polar bear for cold weather resistance. There are blue and white colour morphs found within Iceland, only the latter of which will turn white during the winter. Found throughout the country, they are most prevalent in the Westfjords and in particular the seldom-frequented Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, a highly recommended destination for wildlife photographers. A host of domestic species were then imported following settlement in the late 9th century, most notably sheep, cattle, dogs and the Icelandic horse, a breed that is now one of the purest equestrian bloodlines in the world. The country’s reindeer would arrive from Norway nearly a millennium later. Originally imported with the intention of breeding the animals for meat, the scheme never really gained traction and the herds were left to freely roam the wilds. Today there are some 6000-8000 reindeer inhabiting the eastern Vatnajökull national park with numbers controlled through the granting of hunting permits from mid-July to September each year. Less welcome visitors brought over by boat, or that have escaped into the wild, include the American mink, wood and house mice, domestic rabbits and brown rats. Any lack of mammal biodiversity is more than compensated for by Iceland’s prolific birdlife however, with 75 different species regularly nesting throughout the country. Mývatn is one of Europe’s premium duck watching venues, while the Westfjords boast some of the world’s largest sea bird colonies. Puffins, arctic terns, northern gannets, white tailed eagles, ravens and the illusive gyrfalcon are all superbly photogenic, drawing wildlife enthusiasts from around the globe. Finally the nutrient-rich waters surrounding Iceland’s coast are excellent for spotting large marine cetaceans, with regular sightings of the humpback whale, minke whale, white-beaked dolphin and orca. Less frequent visitors include the blue whale, northern bottlenose whale, pilot whale, sei whale, sperm whale, fin whale and harbour porpoise.

ICELANDIC FAUNA

CHAPTER 1

South West Iceland (Suðvesturland) South West Iceland is the birthplace of the Icelandic nation, the landing place of first settler Ingólfr Arnarson, home to the country’s capital Reykjavík and the logical start point for visitors arriving at Keflavík International Airport. Some of Iceland’s best known landmarks such as the Golden Circle and Blue Lagoon can be found just a short drive from the capital, with easy access to geothermal hotspots, rift valleys and some of the most spectacular waterfalls in the country. Reykjavík itself is wonderfully photogenic, with enough architectural and cultural interest to keep the visiting photographer busy for several days. A little over two thirds of Icelanders live in the immediate capital region, making the south-west the most densely populated and developed area in the country. However, it is important to remember that the entire Icelandic population is smaller than that of many European cities, and the term ‘urbanised’ is therefore one of context. Wilderness is easy to find, even along the nearby Reykjanes peninsula or the Þjórsárdalur valley towards the destructive Hekla stratovolcano. The ring road gives easy access to the south-east, skirting the Hengill geothermal area before descending to Hveragerði, a town famous for its horticultural prowess and incessant smell of sulphur. Moving further east the volcanic deserts give way to lush fields surrounding Selfoss and Hella, an area that features heavily in the violent Njáls Saga, one of Iceland’s great medieval epics. Irrigated by the Þjórsá, Hvítá and Rangá rivers, the fertile plains are home to some of Iceland’s finest horse breeding farms, all watched over by the brooding Eyjafjallajökull, a volcano that made newspaper headlines around the world during the 2010 eruption.

Principle towns / places to stay • Reykjavík – Iceland’s capital is the most popular choice for photographers staying in the south-west due to its wide range of amenities and easy access from Keflavík airport via the excellent Flybus service. There is a wide range of accommodation from the basic to the luxurious, with a good selection of hotel and self-catering options. The main campsite is located in Sundlaugavegur on the northern side of town. • Reykjanesbær / Keflavík – most visitors fly into Keflavík International Airport before immediately making the 40 minute drive to Reykjavík. The eponymous town, now often referred to as Reykjanesbær, is a good and slightly cheaper alternative to the capital, with a vibrant town centre and good access to the Reykjanes peninsula. • Selfoss – often described as the ‘gateway to the south’ this somewhat utilitarian town is well located with easy access to the Reykjanes peninsula, Golden Circle and southern coast. There is a very nice campsite in the town centre.

CHAPTER 01 – SOUTH WEST ICELAND – INTRODUCTION

Driving conditions & seasonal variation The road network in the south-west is mostly excellent and generally speaking all of the locations except Gjáin and Háifoss can be accessed throughout the year.

Access, logistics & transport links The capital region is the most accessible in Iceland and all of the locations within this chapter can be accessed in less than two and a half hours’ drive from Reykjavík.

Airports • Keflavík International Airport – Iceland’s primary airport with flights all over the world. Easily accessed from Reykjavík via a 40 minute Flybus journey. • Reykjavík City Airport – Iceland’s largest domestic airport with flights to Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Ísafjörður, Vestmannaeyjar, Húsavík, Hornafjörður, Grímsey, Bíldudalur, Vopnafjörður, Þórshöfn and Gjögur, with limited international flights.

CHAPTER 1 – SOUTH WEST ICELAND Reykjavík introduction �� 01 Reykjavík – Harpa Concert Hall �� 02 Reykjavík – Sólfari / Sun Voyager sculpture �� 03 Reykjavík – Hallgrímskirkja church �� 04 Reykjavík – other ideas �� Golden Circle introduction �� 05 Golden Circle – Þingvellir / Thingvellir National Park & Öxarárfoss waterfall �� 06 Golden Circle – Brúarfoss waterfall �� 07 Golden Circle – Geysir geothermal area & Strokkur geyser �� 08 Golden Circle – Gullfoss waterfall �� 09 Gjáin valley �� 10 Háifoss & Granni waterfalls �� Reykjanes introduction �� 11 Reykjanes – Þríhnúkagígur / Thrihnukagigur – inside the volcano �� 12 Reykjanes – Hafnarfjörður – Krýsuvíkurvegur fish drying facility �� 13 Reykjanes – Kleifarvatn lake �� 14 Reykjanes – Krýsuvík – Seltún hot springs �� 15 Reykjanes – Bláa Lónið / Blue Lagoon �� 16 Reykjanes – Gunnuhver hot springs �� 17 Reykjanes – Valahnúkamöl cliffs & Reykjanesviti lighthouse ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

540

530

533

Hvanneyri

Borgarnes

Hjörsey

Borg

533

ðu r Þormóðssker

Brautarholt

Hofsvík

434

41 45

Vogar

Hafnir

425

420 41

Blue 15 Lagoon 426

ne ykja

Kleifarvatn 13

Krýsuvík 14 428

Gunnuhver 16 Grindavík

42 k

rví

17 Valahnúkamöl

Úlfljótsvatn 1

Kotströnd 38

Hjalli

427

Þorlákshöfn

Strandarkirkja

ull ök

Stóraborg

354

318 310

314

Eyrarbakki 33 Stokkseyri

304 303

311 312 305

309 308

329

286 281 26

Gaulverjabær

268

252 252

Marteinstunga

F210

262

Breiðabólsstaður

252

APR AUG

APR

SEP MAR OCT

FEB

MAR SEP OCT FEB

Hlíðarendi 261

261

255

250

251

NORTH

253

254

247

F24

249

248 Stóridalur

Kross G AU

Blesárjökull

Tindfjallajökull

252 MA Y

Eyjafjallajökull

246 Ásólfsskáli 245 243

Þridrangar

OCEAN

Eyvindarhólar Elliðaey

Vestmannaeyjar

Surtsey UNESCO World Heritage Site Surtsey

Bjarnarey

Heimaey

DEC JAN

DEC JAN N

Álsey

10km

Hekla 1491m

Keldur

SUNSET SUNRISE 0

268

Skarð

Akurey

ATLANTIC

Stórinúpur

267

Oddi 266

Hvolsvöllur

Þykkvibær

F22

271 Arbær 264

273

Hella

rsá

272

282 275

Þjó

ngá i-Ra Ytr 268

286

332

327

Flúðir

284

Gjáin 9

344 345 Hruni

JUN JU L

10 Háifoss

325

Hagi

302 288

349

Hraungerði 33

8 Gullfoss

Olafsvellir

374

356

324

353

358

Skálholt ás gar 340 341 Lau 31

Eldey

JUN UL YJ MA

Kjö l

Reykholt 359

Mosfell

Búrfell 351

Hveragerði

Selfoss

Ölfus

37 Miðdalur 355 366 364 Torfastaðir 37

The Golden Circle

350

380 38

sa rdí

365

435

11 Þríhnúkagígur – 39 Inside the Volcano

427

Reykjanesviti

Mosfellsbær

417

ifa

Hvalsnes

Keflavík

429

Haukadalur

Laugarvatn 36

Geysir 7

Brúarfoss 6 37

361

360

F3 Sandvatn 38

Hlöðufell 1188m

Skjaldbreiður 1060m

Þingvallavatn

Garðabær Krýsuvíkurvegur 42 12 Fish Drying 407

Kle

Sandgerði

Hafnarfjörður

Mosfell

1-4

rva

Garður

Útskálar

Þingvellir 5

Viðey

Reykjavík

Bláfell 1204m

Þingvellir National Park & UNESCO World Heritage Site

Vindáshlíð

Grundarhverfi

Kollafjörður

Garðskagi

Hvalvatn

461

Reyðarvatn

Fitjar F508

460

458

Þórisjökull

Baldheiði 771m

51 503 Saurbær

Hvitárvatn

550

47 48 Reynivellir

Solkatla 1010m

F336

Saurbær

r rðu fjö l a Hv

Suðorflös

508

n L a

Geitlandsjökull

F338

502

Leira 504

551 Ok

520

505

Akranes

520

517

Kjalfell 1008m Hrútfell 1396m

F33

Fa x a fl o i

507

518 Húsafell Stóriás 550

519

52 512 Lundur

520 50

Borg arfj ör

Álftanes

Kleppjárnsreykir 526 514 Bær 50 510 515

536

Reykholt

F33

535

Siðumúli

Þristapajökull

F337

537

Akrar

527

523

Gilsbakki 523

523 518

Álftártunga

522

itá

540

Norðtunga

Varmaland

522

F73

Eiriksjökull

578

553

Staðarhraun

da lur

566

Kleppavatn

Hólmavatn

Ka ldi

Haffjörður

528

Bifröst

8 57

Langavatn

539

Kj ar rá

Breiðasker

Hvammur

Kolbeinsstaðir

ldj

Miklaholt 568

F26 1

Tröllakirkja 939m

567

l l

Staðarstaður

Suðurey Hellisey Súlnasker Geirfuglasker

Skógar 221

02 REYKJAVÍK – SÓLFARI / SUN VOYAGER SCULPTURE

Located just off the Sæbraut road a short distance from the Harpa Concert Hall, the glittering Sólfari or Sun Voyager sculpture is one of the most photographed landmarks in Iceland. Chosen as the winning concept in a competition to celebrate Reykjavík‘s 200 year anniversary, Jón Gunnar Árnason’s sculpture was unveiled on 18 August 1990, following some debate about exactly where it should be located. Despite its resemblance to a Viking longboat, the stainless steel artwork is actually a ‘dream boat’ and an ‘ode to the sun’, designed to symbolise light, hope and the promise of new, undiscovered territory. Backdropped by the Harpa Concert Hall, the fjord and Mount Esja, the gleaming sculpture is exceptionally photogenic and deservedly popular with photographers; just don’t expect to get it to yourself. The location is at its best at sunset, for both its aesthetic beauty and spiritual significance in accordance with the concept that inspired it.

What to shoot and viewpoints Be aware that Sólfari is one of the most photographed subjects in Iceland. It is nearly impossible to get the sculpture to yourself during daylight hours and an early or very late start is advised. Several stacked long exposures are recommended as a good way of removing other visitors from the scene.

How to get here The sculpture is situated on the northern side of Reykjavík, directly on the sea front, 800m east from the Harpa Concert Hall. It is easily accessible following RTE-41 (Sæbraut) that traverses the waterfront from east to west. Sólfari can clearly be seen from the road and there is a small parking area adjacent to the sculpture. Alternatively the site is easily approached on foot from the city centre or from the old docks to the south-east. Parking lat/long: 64.14732, -21.92226 What3words: ///guarded.relaxing.benched Accessible: All year Road type: A – Surfaced Vehicle: 2WD

Accessibility Approach to main viewpoint: roadside access. The pavement and surrounding area is well surfaced giving good disabled access from the adjacent parking area.

Best time of year/day Sólfari is wonderfully photogenic throughout the year and looks equally good in winder and summer conditions. The quintessential sunset shot is best achieved through the summer months when the sun sets further to the north-west. This has the added advantage of requiring a very late (early!?) start towards summer solstice and while solitude is still unlikely, this does reduce the number of visitors considerably. The same applies to stormy and difficult weather conditions which can yield dramatic results without the crowds.

Viewpoint 1 – looking north-west

Viewpoint 3 – creative compositions

The most logical composition looks out to sea and is particularly effective at sunset throughout the summer months. The granite tiled pedestal catches and reflects the light perfectly, especially if there is any colour in the sky. On a clear day Mount Esja presents a wonderful backdrop, its south-facing aspect often lending itself to good and interesting light.

The reflections, shapes and symmetry offered by Sólfari offer an array of creative compositions to be explored through a variety of focal lengths. An ultra wide angle from below creates the impression of a large metallic insect, while shooting directly towards the prow of the ship from the front creates a superbly minimalistic arrangement. With a longer focal length, a number of burnished abstracts are possible with the potential for some superb and unconventional reflections.

Viewpoint 2 – looking north-east Shooting north-east is more challenging as you have to contend with some of the city’s only high-rise buildings, but it can still yield excellent results, especially during the early hours of the morning in summer when the sun is low in the sky.

SOUTH WEST ICELAND – REYKJAVÍK – SÓLFARI / SUN VOYAGER SCULPTURE

Sólfari under the midnight sun. Nikon D810, 24–70mm at 27mm, ISO 64, 15s at f/8, tripod, BP X4 6-stop CPL. Jul.

05 GOLDEN CIRCLE – ÞINGVELLIR / THINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK & ÖXARÁRFOSS WATERFALL Þingvellir, or Thingvellir as it is anglicised, is a national park situated on the edge of Þingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland. Comprised of grassy plains and small gorges, bisected by several waterways feeding the Öxará river, this unassuming location is actually the birthplace of the Icelandic nation. Þingvellir is derived from Old Norse meaning ‘assembly fields’, a name that was first coined in AD 930 when a group of settlers decreed that local councils would meet here annually to discuss commonwealth policy at the ‘Althing’, a historic event that saw the creation of the world’s oldest, still active parliament. Þingvellir was chosen as the designated site for these gatherings thanks to its favourable topography and geographically advantageous location on the Kjölur route, with easy access west and south. People would eventually come here in their thousands, erecting temporary accommodation in the naturally sheltered Almannagjá fissure and using the Öxará river for bathing and drinking water. Over the next millennium Icelandic settlers would meet here to socialise, gossip, arrange marriages, settle grievances and dictate policy. New decrees were read from the ‘law rock’ by an elected speaker whose job it was to memorise the constitution and quote it when necessary. Although there was no democratic voting, all attendees were given the right to stand on the law rock and make their case, a decidedly progressive concept that encouraged often animated political debate. Ultimately it was here that the current Icelandic nation was forged and there are few, if any, more culturally significant sites on the island. The land surrounding Þingvellir would become Iceland’s first national park in 1930, before receiving UNESCO World Heritage status in 2004. Aside from its historical and cultural significance, Þingvellir is also a unique geological site. The valley floor marks the mid-Atlantic ridge fault line, where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates are pulling apart at a rate of approximately 1cm per year. It is one of two places in the world where this phenomena of sea floor spreading can actually be witnessed on land. Many rifts caused by this tectonic divergence can be found throughout Þingvellir, the most famous of these being the Silfra fissure that offers adventurous photographers the chance to dive or snorkel between the two plates. From a photographer’s perspective, Þingvellir is not what people expect from such a high profile destination as it lacks a singularly obvious viewpoint. Instead the park suits a more subtle and spontaneous approach, with a surprising amount to offer once you dig beneath the commercial veneer. A panorama of Öxarárfoss. Nikon D850, 14–24mm at 14mm, ISO 64, 1/4s at f/22, tripod. Sep.

SOUTH WEST ICELAND – GOLDEN CIRCLE – ÞINGVELLIR / THINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK

10 HÁIFOSS & GRANNI WATERFALLS Located near the infamous Hekla volcano, Háifoss, as its name implies, is one of the highest waterfalls in Iceland, plunging 122m into the Fossárdalur valley. The Fossá or ‘waterfall river’ which forms the cascade is a spring water tributary of Iceland’s longest river, the Þjórsá, which originates at the Hofsjokull glacier. This picturesque tributary bifurcates just north of Háifoss to create a second fall, aptly named Granni or the ‘neighbour’. These twin cascades tumbling over the two million year-old cliffs into an ancient canyon make for a stunning scene and the pair are amongst the most photogenic waterfalls on the island. Located on the edge of Iceland’s southern highlands the falls are a logical stop for photographers venturing into the interior, especially given that a four wheel drive vehicle is a prerequisite for both trips. The final approach through the minefield of potholes can be a little arduous, but the resulting vista is more than worth the effort.

What to shoot and viewpoints From the car park a good path leads south-west, descending past some information boards towards the falls. After 30m a small path branches off to the right which quickly leads to the cliff edges and viewpoint 1.

Viewpoint 1 – Háifoss waterfall Traversing along the cliff edge overlooking Háifoss the nearby rocks, mosses and lichens present numerous foreground possibilities. With a wide angle lens or some panoramic stitching it is possible to include both the cascade and Fossárdalur valley, with the river making for an excellent leading line into the image’s centre. Alternatively it is possible to isolate Háifoss with a longer lens to create a more minimalist scene. If the light is good, a walk up and down the cliff edge is recommend to see if any rainbows present themselves in the spray. A spectacular sunset at Háifoss as the sun manages to break through beneath the passing storm clouds. Nikon D850, 14–24mm at 14mm, ISO 80, 1s at f/14, tripod, BP X4 CPL. Jul.

110

SOUTH WEST ICELAND – HÁIFOSS & GRANNI WATERFALLS

A composite image of Reykjanesviti lighthouse comprised of two images. Nikon D850, 20mm, ISO 2000, 5s at f/1.8, tripod. Sep.

116

SOUTH WEST ICELAND – REYKJANES

Kleifarvatn lake on the Reykjanes peninsula is an excellent location for watching the northern lights. Nikon D800E, 18–35mm at 18mm, ISO 1600, 15s at f/4, tripod. Feb. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH.

SOUTH WEST ICELAND – REYKJANES

117

15 REYKJANES – BLÁA LÓNIÐ / BLUE LAGOON

The azure waters of the aptly named Blue Lagoon play host to well over 1 million people per year and up to 4000 guests per day, making it Iceland’s most well-known and frequented attraction. This was not always the case however, and the evolution of the site from industrial effluent to one of National Geographic’s 25 wonders of the world can only be described as a happy accident. It began with the construction of the Svartsengi Power Plant in 1976 which became the first geothermal energy station to simultaneously provide electric power and hot water for district heating. Drilling deep boreholes into the earth allowed the architects to tap into the immense energy source 1.6km beneath the Reykjanes peninsula, driving turbines with superheated steam. Runoff from the recondensed geothermal steam was piped into the surrounding landscape where it was meant to percolate back into the ground. However, the engineers did not account for the high silica content of the mineral-rich water which coated the volcanic rocks, creating an impermeable layer that resulted in the accidental creation of a warm man-made lagoon. By the early 1980s locals were sneaking in to bathe and enjoy the healing qualities of the brine and silica-rich waters, which were proven to be hugely beneficial to people suffering from skin conditions such as psoriasis. The lagoon quickly developed a cult following which prompted the power station to build basic changing facilities; however, it was not until 1999 that the lagoon officially opened as a spa and visitor location. Today the lagoon can be considered something of a business model triumph: it produces 75MW of clean electrical energy (which is partly used to power the runway lights at Keflavík International Airport), provides hot water for some 21,000 households and has transformed a waste product from its factory into a very successful health spa resort which has become an international brand name. While current statistics suggest nearly four out of five visitors to Iceland will frequent the lagoon, it would not be considered a classic photography location. That said, if you are going anyway or are driving in the vicinity, with a bit of creative thinking there are some good opportunities to be had both inside the lagoon itself and in the surrounding area.

130

SOUTH WEST ICELAND – REYKJANES – BLÁA LÓNIÐ / BLUE LAGOON

What to shoot and viewpoints

Viewpoint 1 – inside the Blue Lagoon

Viewpoint 2 – outside the Lagoon – outlying pools

There is an entry fee for the bathing area and visits generally need to be booked in advance to reserve a time slot. However, it is possible to explore the many pools and tributaries surrounding the lagoon free of charge. Generally speaking the early morning and late evening visiting hours are the quietest, though during peak season the lagoon is likely to be fully booked throughout the entire day. Please respect the relaxing atmosphere of the site; keep a low profile, refrain from flying UAVs and be considerate of people’s privacy in bathing areas.

Camera phones and small cameras are generally permitted in the water, though it is always best to check the current rules at reception. For those wishing to take photos for commercial purposes, especially with a model, permission needs to be requested several months in advance. Once in the water the size of the lagoon, coupled with the limited entry, means it is normally possible to find a quiet spot with a good backdrop. Silica is not camera-friendly and a waterproof camera or housing is very much recommended.

From the car park take the path towards the entrance until a smaller path branches left 50m before the main doors, signposted towards Grindavík. Follow the path left around the building to reach a series of silica-rich pools that look best on a still day with good light to help bring out the surreal colours. Continue for another 50m until the path forks; the main route goes right but it is worth taking a short detour left to find a stream, also displaying the same cerulean blue characteristics.

SOUTH WEST ICELAND – REYKJANES – BLÁA LÓNIÐ / BLUE LAGOON

131

03 VESTMANNAEYJAR / WESTMAN ISLANDS – SOUTH HEIMAEY

Puffins are fast and difficult to capture in flight. Nikon D810, 300mm with 2xTC at 600mm, ISO 450, 1/1600s at f/6.3. Jun.

Nikon D850, 300mm with 2xTC at 600mm, ISO 180, 1/640s at f/5.6. Jul.

The green pastures of Heimaey taper towards the south, ending in a narrow peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic Ocean. Known as Stórhöfði, this exposed spit of land was originally a separate island when it first rose from the sea 6000 years ago, assisted by the sea crater Stakkabótagígur which now lies beneath the nearby Sæfjall. The eruption of Helgafell a millennium later linked Stórhöfði to the older mountains in the north, creating Heimaey as we know it today. A lighthouse sits on the highest point, built in 1906 and presided over by the same family since 1910. The steep cliffs around Stórhöfði are exceptionally rich in birdlife and boast one of the largest puffin colonies in the world, with studies indicating that there are between 700,000 and 1.1 million birds that frequent and nest in the surrounding area.

Viewpoint 12 – Stórhöfði Peninsula puffins What3words: ///devolves.mornings.conformist

152

While puffins are often seen at Herjólfsdalur, Heimaklettur, and on the north side of Blátindur, the locations all require steep and strenuous ascents. By contrast Stórhöfðiis is very accessible, making it justifiably popular with wildlife enthusiasts, ornithologists and photographers throughout the summer months. Be sure to check the weather forecast before venturing out; the peninsula is widely regarded as the windiest place in Europe, with recorded wind speeds reaching 220km/h in February 1991, which also saw 30m high waves striking the nearby cliffs before the anemometer was destroyed.

What to shoot and viewpoints GPS coordinates and QR codes are provided where applicable and a map of the island’s locations can be found on page §§§.

SOUTH ICELAND – VESTMANNAEYJAR / WESTMAN ISLANDS – SOUTH HEIMAEY

From the parking area follow the path west for 170m to reach a puffin lookout hide that offers a commanding view over one of the main nesting areas. Several paths traverse the surrounding hillsides and allow a change of perspective; please stay on the marked trails to avoid disturbing the nesting birds. The puffins start arriving during late April and early May, though the best time to see them is between June and August. The baby puffins (pufflings!) generally hatch early to mid-July and can be found wandering the streets by August, confused by the city lights. Thankfully the local residents organise a ‘puffin patrol’, collecting the errant chicks and returning them to the sea once they are ready. Early evening is generally the best time to photograph the birds, both for the softer light and because the puffins hunt out at sea during the day.

It is worth trying to find some interesting rocks or vegetation to add additional colour and interest to the scene. Nikon D810, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/5.6. Jul.

SOUTH ICELAND – VESTMANNAEYJAR / WESTMAN ISLANDS – SOUTH HEIMAEY

153

04 SELJALANDSFOSS & GLJÚFRABÚI WATERFALLS

With a source originating in the imposing Eyjafjallajökull ice cap, the river Seljalandsá flows down through the Eyjafjöll mountains before finally plunging 60m off the Seljalandsheiði shelf, creating one of the most impressive waterfalls in Iceland. Surrounded by the flat sandur plains encircling the Markarfljót, Seljalandsfoss is visible for miles when approaching from Selfoss to the west and has long been used by Icelanders as a key navigational feature. For the adventurous it is possible to walk behind the waterfall and make a full circle of the cascade, an unusual possibility for such a large body of water and one that provides some unique photographic opportunities. Nearby the lesser known Gljúfrabúi or ‘dweller in the gorge’ waterfall is something of a hidden gem that receives fewer visitors due to its more difficult access.

What to shoot and viewpoints Seljalandsfoss is clearly visible from the parking area and good signposting leads north to Gljúfrabúi.

Viewpoint 1 – Seljalandsfoss waterfall Approaching Seljalandsfoss the view is immediately impressive. The roped-off area allows for a clear shot of the falls even when the area is busy and a long exposure will generally remove anyone walking behind the cascade, particularly with several shots stacked together. A wooden bridge leads over the Seljalandsá river which makes for an effective leading line into the falls. The tranquil pool at the base of the cascade makes for an idyllic scene and a good focal point, or alternatively it is possible to crop in closer on the tumbling water using a longer lens.

Viewpoint 2 – Seljalandsfoss from behind A well-defined path leads behind the fall. For those with limited mobility approaching from the right hand side (looking at the fall) is easier and most people tend to make an anti-clockwise circuit. There are then excellent side-on views of the cascade before gaining the unique opportunity to photograph Seljalandsfoss from directly behind the main fall.

154

SOUTH ICELAND – SELJALANDSFOSS & GLJÚFRABÚI WATERFALLS

How to get here From Vík take RTE-1 west towards Reykjavík for 60km before turning right onto RTE-249 signposted towards Seljalandsfoss and Þórsmörk. Drive for 650m to reach the large car park underneath the falls. There is a small charge for parking and tickets can be obtained from machines near the kiosk. Parking lat/long: 63.61553, -19.99383 What3words: ///smog.tycoon.reproduce Accessible: All year Road type: A – Surfaced Vehicle: 2WD

Accessibility Approach to main viewpoint: 1 minute, 100m, 0m of ascent. Seljalandsfoss is comprehensively developed with good disabled access, well-maintained paths and toilet facilities. The main viewpoint overlooking the falls is located exceptionally close to the car park and there are disabled parking spaces. The path leading behind Seljalandsfoss is more rugged, with steps to negotiate and a brief scrambling section on the north-eastern side of the fall. Be prepared to be drenched by the abundant spray and take care to keep camera equipment as dry as possible. This path is closed during the winter months due to inaccessibility and risk of ice falling from above: please respect the closure. Access to Gljúfrabúi requires some careful boulder hopping if water levels are low, or rubber boots and some stream wading if not. Spray from the waterfall soaks everything and photographic equipment should be protected accordingly.

Best time of year/day Seljalandsfoss is best photographed during summer and autumn when it is still possible to walk behind the fall. During spring the volume of water in the channel is hugely impressive, while September provides some of the best light as the sun sets directly opposite the fall. Owing to the waterfall’s popularity a visit during early morning or late evening is recommended to avoid the crowds. The waterfall is spot-lit at night during the winter.

Compositions are largely determined by the wind direction and it can be very wet due to the spray coming off the vertical drop. A wide angle lens works well here, allowing photographers to use the cave and elliptical opening to create a naturally framed image of the roaring torrent falling from the cliffs above. This shot is especially recommended during September when the sun sets in the frame.

A long exposure of Seljalandsfoss, with the path leading to Gljúfrabúi and the campsite visible in the background. © Robert Lukeman.

SOUTH ICELAND – SELJALANDSFOSS & GLJÚFRABÚI WATERFALLS

155

04 SELJALANDSFOSS & GLJÚFRABÚI WATERFALLS

Viewpoint 3 – Gljúfrabúi waterfall from outside Characterised by a 40m cascade that drops into an enclosed amphitheatre, Gljúfrabúi waterfall is situated 560m to the north of Seljalandsfoss and is well signposted along a walking path that traverses underneath the cliffs. From Seljalandsfoss cross the wooden bridge over the Seljalandsá river and walk for ten minutes, passing several smaller waterfalls and picturesque channels to reach the Gljúfurá stream. There is a good view into the amphitheatre from the entrance and along the stream bank a little further west. Wearing rubber boots or with some paddling in the summer (it is always better to keep your shoes on) it is possible to gain a lovely perspective looking towards Gljúfrabúi through the entrance. The contrasting light will often necessitate some exposure bracketing, particularly on a sunny day. There is also a nice vertical composition from much further back towards the road and campsite.

Viewpoint 4 – Gljúfrabúi waterfall from inside

Frozen steps leading behind Seljalandsfoss. Nikon D810, 70–200mm at 135mm, ISO 100, 1/160s at f/5. Feb.

To enter the amphitheatre below the fall it is often possible for the sure footed to boulder hop, if not wading in the stream will be required. Once inside the view can only be described as fairytale, the water cascading into the moss covered cave producing a magical scene. Unfortunately the close proximity to the fall and enclosed space makes spray a real problem. Keeping the lens free of water is quite the logistical challenge, a rocket air blower works really well here, blowing the droplets off the lens instead of smearing them with a cloth. A wide angle lens is recommended to convey the atmosphere and once again some exposure bracketing may be required if the chosen composition includes the sky. The large rock in the foreground is beautifully lit with natural light and is a popular choice for including human subjects in the frame.

Viewpoint 5 – Gljúfrabúi waterfall from above Please note that while it was previously possible to climb up the rocks outside to gain a top-down perspective over Gljúfrabúi this path has now been closed to protect the area.

Opposite: The natural light filtering down from above spotlights the large boulder in the foreground, making it ideally placed and lit for some modelling. A huge thanks to Katie for enduring getting soaked on a cold October evening in the name of art. Nikon D850, 14–24mm at 18mm, ISO 400, 1/15s at f/2.8, tripod. Oct.

For those that do not wish to enter Gljúfrabúi it is still possible to get a good view of the waterfall from outside looking into the cave. This is an exposure bracketed image comprised of three frames taken at two stop intervals. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 80, various at f/13, BP X4 6-stop PL ND. May.

SOUTH ICELAND – SELJALANDSFOSS & GLJÚFRABÚI WATERFALLS

157

08 DYRHÓLAEY, HÁEY – LIGHTHOUSE

Viewpoint 2 – birdlife & puffins The cliffs around Dyrhólaey are rich with eider duck, Atlantic puffins, arctic terns and a variety of gulls during the summer months, making it an ideal wildlife venue. The puffins generally start arriving from May and leave in September, though June and July are generally considered the best months for spotting them. They are usually out at sea fishing during the middle of the day, so a visit in the early morning or late afternoon is recommend, both for the increased likelihood of seeing them and also for the softer light. The area immediately surrounding the car park makes a logical start point for trying to find them.

Viewpoint 3 – Dyrhólaeyjarviti lighthouse Designed by state architect Guðjón Samúelsson and built in 1927, the squat lighthouse at Dyrhólaey resembles a miniature castle. While undoubtedly a little austere it is surprisingly photogenic in the right conditions. Equipped with the brightest spotlight in Iceland, the building makes a particularly good subject at night, when the multi-directional beams make for a dramatic image, especially with low cloud or fog.

Viewpoint 4 – Dyrhólaey rock arch Continuing south past the lighthouse leads to a cliff top viewpoint overlooking the huge rock archway. The feature is so large that a biplane managed to fly through the opening in 1993. With a west-facing aspect the doorway is best photographed in the afternoon and early evening when it receives good light. Looking south-west the nearby sea stack Kambur makes a good minimalistic focal point if there is a dramatic sky behind it. Please note that while it was previously possible to walk out onto the archway this is no longer allowed.

Viewpoint 5 – Reynisdrangar sea stacks Following the coastal path east past the rock archway for 200m reveals far-reaching views over towards Reynisfjara beach and the Reynisdrangar sea stacks. With a long lens it is possible to pick out points of interest, using the beach or cliffs as foreground interest. The path then continues all the way down to Lágey with good views over the surrounding area throughout. To return retrace your steps back to the car.

168

SOUTH ICELAND – DYRHÓLAEY, HÁEY – LIGHTHOUSE

How to get here From Vík take RTE-1 west towards Reykjavík for 12km before turning left onto RTE-218 signposted towards Dyrhólaey. Follow the road for 5km until the road forks shortly after a cattle grid. Turn right, following signs towards Háey (continuing straight leads to Lágey) and carefully drive up the steep switchbacks leading up the hill and park at the top where the road ends. Parking lat/long: 63.40399, -19.12903 What3words: ///bruiser.seaweeds.greases Accessible: All year (winter dependant*) Road type: B – Unsurfaced Vehicle: 2WD with high clearance * Please note that in winter the final approach road is often closed after snowfall or during prolonged cold spells. If there is any ice on the road a 4WD vehicle is recommended. The lighthouse road is often closed during nesting season from 8 May until 25 June. During this time it is still possible to walk up on foot between 9am and 7pm. Please respect the signposting during this period as dates and times may vary. For access and road conditions visit www.road.is

Accessibility Approach to main viewpoint: 5 minutes, 250m, 0m of ascent. Numerous unsurfaced paths criss-cross Háey, the majority of which can be negotiated in a wheelchair, even if they do not provide the smoothest ride. The top of the hill is largely flat and all of the viewpoints are located in close proximity to the parking area. Take care near the cliff edges which are crumbly, vertiginous and often unfenced, especially during high winds. If the road is closed it is possible to walk up a well-marked coastal path that leads west from Lágey. The 1km uphill walk takes approximately 20 minutes at a steady pace.

Best time of year/day The diverse nature of Dyrhólaey with its multi-directional viewpoints means there is always something to photograph. Late June and July are ideal times to photograph the puffins and terns, once the restrictions have lifted but before they return to sea; while spring and autumn are perfect for catching sunrise behind the Reynisdrangar sea stacks.

Dawn light looking east across to the Reynisdrangar sea stacks. Taken from the path that runs between Háey and Lágey. Nikon D810, 70-20mm at 180mm, ISO 100, 1/10s at f/8, tripod. Oct.

01 SKAFTAFELL PARK & SVARTIFOSS WATERFALL Formerly a national park in its own right, Skaftafell was merged with the Vatnajökull National Park in 2008, creating one of the largest protected areas in Europe. Situated on the periphery of the vast Skeiðarársandur outwash plain, this beautiful assortment of glacial tongues, deep valleys and dramatic mountains is a veritable paradise for adventure photographers who enjoy hiking.

What to shoot and viewpoints Skaftafell is one of Iceland’s primary walking destinations and there are numerous trails of varying lengths exploring the wilderness between Skaftafellsfjöll and Hafrafell. A map of the area can be purchased from the visitor centre and should be considered mandatory for anyone wishing to explore some of the more adventurous routes. From a photographer’s perspective the most easily accessible points of interest are Svartifoss waterfall, the Sjónarnípa viewpoint and Skaftafellsjökull glacier. For those with suitable mountaineering experience and a good weather window, an ascent of Kristínartindar is not to be missed. The following viewpoint suggestions are shown on the map opposite.

Viewpoint 1 – Svartifoss waterfall hike 1 hour 30 minutes, 4km, 200m of ascent / descent. The basalt waterfall inspired the architectural design of Hallgrímskirkja church and is very popular; an early start is recommended if in search of solitude. From the visitor centre follow a good path west towards the campsite, keeping right. Take the first right turn, signposted towards Svartifoss, and ascend for 15 minutes to reach a viewpoint overlooking Hundafoss waterfall, shortly after crossing a small bridge. Stay on the largest path to reach the viewpoint overlooking Svartifoss in another 20 minutes of uphill walking. With a long lens, this vantage point is ideal for photographing the heart-shaped basalt depression surrounding the cascade. A path then leads down to the waterfall and a viewing platform directly beneath Svartifoss. It is then possible to cross the river before turning left to descend and complete the circuit back to the campsite and visitors centre.

192

SOUTH EAST ICELAND – SKAFTAFELL PARK & SVARTIFOSS

Þumall 1279m

l gi Hj

Kjós

AusturHnúta

Kambur

Efrihjallar

Lam

Neðrihjallar

bha

1119m

How to get here From Kirkjubæjarklaustur take RTE-1 east for 70km then turn left onto RTE-998 towards Skaftafell. Drive along the road for 1.5km, following signposting towards the day parking area. If you are planning a longer stop, continue towards the camping grounds.

eggja

r Kjósa

Kjósarlækur

eingil

1179m

Ve str aM ein

ós

út

VesturHnúta

M Eystra-

Réttargil

t bo

rj ök ul l

Lambadalur

Miðfellstindur 1430m Ragnarstindur

Note that this parking area is subject to a fee and is controlled by cameras at the entrance. Fees apply for stays of fifteen minutes or more. There are several parking meters within the car park that require visitors to register their vehicle, or alternatively it is possible to pay in the visitor centre.

rsá

raur

arð

Parking lat/long: 64.01488, -16.96757 What3words: ///giblet.tissues.sunbeams Accessible: All year (winter dependant*) Road type: A – Surfaced Vehicle: 2WD

rth

a Sv

ar ák

hnú

Blá

LitliBláhnúkur

St Sk óra rið a

StóriBláhnúkur

rsá

Rau ð

Skaftafellsfjöll

lón

Kristínartindar 1126m Bratthálsar

* While the driving approach is accessible all year, several of the more remote viewpoints can only be accessed safely on foot without snow on the ground.

alu

s Fú

kad

n Sa

ár

ag Kó r

ell ftaf

Skaftafellsheiði

Vesturheiði Miðheiði

1.2

he ið

Svartifoss

An ascent of Kristínartindar should only be attempted by parties with good scrambling or mountaineering experience in stable weather conditions.

Skaftafellsjökull Hike

Best time of year/day

agil Hrafn gil u t Gö

Sjónarnípa

ará

Eyjag

The trails within the park are generally well marked but care still needs to be taken, particularly in adverse weather conditions or bad visibility. Maps can be bought from the visitor centre.

Skeið

Skeiðarárjö ku

Skerhóll 524m

sjö

Sjónarnípa & Skaftafellsheiði Hike

1.3

Sniðagil

All of the viewpoints within Skaftafell require hikes of varying lengths; these are indicated in the relevant viewpoint descriptions. The above statistics are for the approach to Svartifoss waterfall, which despite its modest length features a considerable amount of uphill walking.

Jökulfell 862m

Grjóthóll

Approach to main viewpoint: 45 minutes, 1.5km, 200m of ascent.

Gláma

sá

alu

Accessibility

Mor

sá or M

rag

Réttarg

t Ves

alu

gil

a Fús

Mosvellir

Ska

Blátindur 1177m

hel lrar

ðg

Svartifoss 1.1 Hike kkur st

Skaftafell is best visited in the summer and autumn when the lack of snow and ice allows the area to be properly explored. That said, the park actually receives very little snowfall throughout the winter and it is often possible to hike here, providing visitors are suitably equipped with crampons.

b ur

Skaftafell Visitor Centre & Camping JUN UL YJ MA

JUN JU L

MA Y APR

APR AUG

G AU

Ske

iða

998

rársandur

SEP MAR OCT

MAR SEP OCT

FEB

Many of the best viewpoints are south facing and thus receive good light throughout the day.

Opposite: Svartifoss waterfall is the best known landmark in Skaftafell Park. Nikon D850, 20mm, ISO 100, 1s at f/8, tripod, BP X4 3-stop ND. Aug.

FEB

fellsá fta

Skaftafell Airport

DEC JAN

DEC JAN N

SUNSET SUNRISE 0

1km To Reyjavík

To Höfn

SOUTH EAST ICELAND – SKAFTAFELL PARK & SVARTIFOSS

193

06 JÖKULSÁRLÓN GLACIAL LAKE

How to get here Jökulsárlón is situated 250m off RTE-1, 56km east of Skaftafell and 80km south west of Höfn. There are several small parking areas along the south-west side of the lagoon, though the main car park is just east of the bridge crossing the Jökulsá river which is the outlet of the glacial lagoon. The bridge is an excellent reference point as it is one of the few suspension bridges in Iceland, making it easy to spot. The main car park is well served with amenities and there are toilets, a café, and numerous tour guiding companies that run boat trips, glacier trekking and ice cave visits. Parking lat/long: 64.04813, -16.17913 What3words: ///defaming.monks.forgetting Accessible: All year Road type: A – Surfaced Vehicle: 2WD

Accessibility Approach to main viewpoint: 1 minutes, 100m, 0m of ascent. The close proximity of the main car park to the lagoon makes Jökulsárlón exceptionally accessible and there are great views straight out of the car. The surrounding area is unsurfaced gravel but relatively flat. Arctic terns are a common sight at the lagoon. Nikon D800E, 80–400mm at 320mm, ISO 800, 1/800s at f/9. Jun. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH.

What to shoot and viewpoints While most people tend to stay near the main car park, it is possible to walk around much of the east, south and west sides of the lagoon following a marked trail. This allows for a variety of shooting aspects depending on the light and conditions. The area also gets quieter with increased distance from the main car park. For the adventurous, a 15km marked walking trail leads away from the western car park and around the lagoon to Fjallsárlón, passing several small lakes on the way.

Viewpoint 1 – Jökulsárlón Lagoon Jökulsárlón Lagoon is constantly changing as the conveyor belt glacier calves off, releasing new bergs from the Breiðamerkurjökull terminus. These pieces get moved around and eventually taken out to sea by the action of the tide, waves and wind. This makes repeat visits well worthwhile as you will never see the same scene twice. The icebergs vary in size from tiny pieces to apartment block-sized masses, with only 10% of the formations visible above the waters surface.

It is not uncommon for these bergs to flip over and reveal the beautifully sculptured clear blue ice underneath. With such an impressive scene the temptation is to rush in and try to capture everything with a wide angle. Instead, take your time and try to pick out one or two interesting pieces of ice and concentrate on framing. Use a wide angle with your main subject really close or use a longer lens to isolate a point of interest and to simplify the composition. Between May and October you can take a 45 minute guided boat ride around the ice floes in the lagoon for a different perspective and a better chance of seeing seals sun bathing on the ice. If you do not fancy the boat ride, or if it is not running, a walk along the shore will yield many more opportunities.

Viewpoint 2 – seals, birds & wildlife While exploring keep an eye out for seals and sea birds interacting in the lagoon as they lend considerable interest to a landscape or make for interesting subjects themselves.

Best time of year/day The icebergs in Jökulsárlón vary from day to day and there really is no best time of year to visit with regards the amount of ice you might find in the lagoon. During summer the arctic terns make for an excellent additional point of interest (though they don’t nest at Jökulsárlón every year) and it is possible to take boat rides on the water. In the winter, snowfall helps create the quintessential Arctic scene, while during spring and autumn the lagoon is often a little quieter. Early morning and late evening are recommended throughout the year as the lagoon looks spectacular during the golden hours and is slightly less busy. The orientation of the lagoon, coupled with strong foreground subjects and the opportunity for good reflections makes it an ideal northern lights venue.

Opposite: Icebergs at Jökulsárlón throughout the year. © WPH. Top left: Canon 5DII, 24–105mm at 55mm, ISO 200, 1/250s at f/11. Top right: Canon 5DII, 70–300mm at 160mm, ISO 400, 1/250s at f/11. Centre left: Canon 5DII, 70–300mm at 155mm, ISO 400, 1/400s at f/11. Centre right: Nikon D810, 70–200mm at 170mm, ISO 200, 1/800s at f6.3. Bottom left: Canon 5DII, 17–40mm at 17mm, ISO 3200, 15s at f/4. Bottom right: Canon 5DII, 17–40mm at 17mm, ISO 1600, 60s at f/4.

SOUTH EAST ICELAND – JÖKULSÁRLÓN GLACIAL LAKE

215

218

??????? SECTION ??????? – ??????? LOCATION ???????

07 BREIÐAMERKURSANDUR / DIAMOND ICE BEACH

How to get here Breiðamerkursandur beach is situated opposite Jökulsárlón, on the other side of RTE-1, 56km east of Skaftafell and 80km south-west of Höfn. There are two parking areas, one on the east side of the Jökulsá river, the other on the west. Both junctions are located at either end of the Jökulsárlón suspension bridge which is a good point of reference when driving RTE-1. It is also possible to walk to the eastern parking area from Jökulsárlón following a path under the bridge. Western Parking Parking lat/long: 64.04308, -16.18254 What3words: ///paving.wire.employable Accessible: All year Road type: A – Surfaced Vehicle: 2WD Eastern Parking Parking lat/long: 64.04543, -16.1779 What3words: ///doddle.rashers.gains

Accessibility Approach to main viewpoint: 3 minutes, 200m, 0m of ascent. The close proximity of the parking area to the beach makes Breiðamerkursandur very accessible. Disabled access is only possible with a beach suitable wheelchair. Photographers are encouraged to be mindful of the sea while at Breiðamerkursandur. It is easy to become fixated on a piece of ice and not notice a particularly large wave approaching.

Best time of year/day Accumulated ice at Breiðamerkursandur lasts slightly longer in the winter with the colder temperatures, but that aside there is little annual variation, meaning local conditions on any given day will play a much greater role in dictating the amount of ice found. The south-east orientation of the beach makes it perfect at sunrise throughout much of the year, except during high summer.

Opposite: Ice throughout the year at Breiðamerkursandur. Top left: Canon 5DII, 24–105mm at 45mm, ISO 100, 1s at f/16, tripod. Feb. © Martin Sammtleben / WPH. Top right: Nikon D7000, 11–16mm at 14mm, ISO 100, 1s at f/8, tripod, ND filter. Oct. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH. Centre left: Canon 5DII, 85mm, ISO 200, 1/400s at f4. Oct. © Martin Sammtleben / WPH. Centre right: Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 64, 1s at f/16, tripod, BP X4 6-stop CPL. Jul. Lower left: Nikon D810, 70–200mm at 92mm, ISO 100, 1/250s at f/8. Feb. Lower right: Nikon D810, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 100, 1s at f/18, tripod, BP X4 3-stop CPL. Nov.

A young seal mirrors the ice on Breiðamerkursandur beach. Nikon D810, 300mm, ISO 100, 1/640s at f/2.8. Oct.

What to shoot and viewpoints A quick glance from the road will determine which side of the Jökulsá river has the best ice, which varies from day to day. It is important to drive between the two car parks on each side of the river as crossing the narrow Jökulsárlón suspension bridge on foot is dangerous with the fast moving traffic. The beaches are then clearly visible from the parking areas.

Long exposure photography using a neutral density filter is popular here, allowing photographers to capture the movement of the water as it retreats back around the ice. This requires a wave small enough, or a piece of ice large enough, that it does not move with the water, otherwise the ice will blur with the motion. A one to two second exposure is a good start point, giving the impression of movement while still retaining some detail in the water.

Viewpoint 1 – Breiðamerkursandur beach Each day new ice sculptures are washed up on the black volcanic sand. They come in all shapes and sizes: occasionally there are only a few, while at other times it is difficult to walk down the beach without tripping over chunks of ancient glacial ice. Sometimes less ice can be advantageous as it makes isolating a particular formation much easier, making the scene less cluttered. The ice comes in many different shapes, sizes and colours; the key is to find an especially striking piece.

Viewpoint 2 – seals As with Jökulsárlón, Breiðamerkursandur is an excellent place for spotting seals amongst the ice or resting on the beach.

Viewpoint 3 – Jökulsárlón suspension bridge For architectural photography enthusiasts, the Jökulsárlón suspension bridge can look effective in the right light when viewed from Breiðamerkursandur looking towards the lagoon.

SOUTH EAST ICELAND – BREIÐAMERKURSANDUR / DIAMOND ICE BEACH

219

08 BREIÐAMERKURJÖKULL ICE CAVES

While ice caves are found in Langjökul, Mýrdalsjökull and many of the outlet glaciers descending from the Vatnajökull, those found in Breiðamerkurjökull are some of the most accessible, spectacular and well known. For more information on ice caves in Iceland see page §§§. Formed by subglacial channels fed by surface melt water percolating through the glacier, these spectacular tunnels can only be safely explored during winter. From a photographer’s perspective, the natural surrealist landscape that closely resembles one of H.R. Giger’s more adventurous creations is hard to better. Several companies offer ice cave tours, though for photographers it is worth researching a guide that specialises in small groups. One of the original tour companies like www.fromcoasttomountains.com makes for a good research start point.

How to get here While the departure point varies slightly between companies, most meet at the Jökulsárlón car park or at Café Vatnajökull in Fagurhólsmýri, 30km south-west of Jökulsárlón. Exact departure points and times need to be confirmed with the relevant guides. Jökulsárlón is situated 250m off RTE-1, 56km east of Skaftafell and 80km south west of Höfn. The turn-off for the main car park is found just east of the suspension bridge crossing the Jökulsá river, which forms the outlet of the glacial lagoon. The bridge is an excellent reference point as it is one of the few suspension bridges in Iceland, making it easy to spot. The cave guides are usually found on the eastern side of the parking area, below the café. Jökulsárlón Parking lat/long: 64.04813, -16.17913 What3words: ///defaming.monks.forgetting Accessible: November–March Café Vatnajökull Parking lat/long: 63.88147, -16.64581 What3words: ///stopped.elevating.heartthrob Accessible: November–March

What to shoot and viewpoints

Accessibility

Ice caves vary annually, retreating, reshaping and collapsing. No two trips to this ephemeral phenomenon are ever the same.

Approach to main viewpoint: Trip and cave dependant.

Viewpoint 1 – approach It is worth keeping a camera to hand from the outset as the approach vehicles are an impressive sight in themselves.

Viewpoint 2 – ice cave interior Photographing an ice cave is difficult; the lack of light nearly always necessitates a tripod, acquiring focus on the smooth walls is problematic and everything feels harder in gloves and winter layers. The key is to slow down, explore the cave thoroughly and then decide upon a composition. Look for areas where good light coincides with interesting ice patterns and colours, either near the entrance or along sections where the ice is thinner, allowing light from outside to refract down through the glacier. A fast, wide angle lens generally works best, allowing the roof with its icy intricacies to be included in the frame. It is difficult to convey scale in the caves and many photographers choose to include a human subject in the shot, both as a reference point and for context.

220

SOUTH EAST ICELAND – BREIÐAMERKURJÖKULL ICE CAVES

Access to the caves changes annually, some can be approached directly by vehicle, others require several hours of walking. All require surefootedness and an adventurous spirit. Crampons, helmets, head torches and – if necessary – ice axes will be provided by the guides.

Best time of year/day The ice caves of Breiðamerkurjökull can only be visited in the winter, generally between November and March when temperatures are cold enough to ensure the caves are safe. Please note that it can still sometimes be too warm in the winter and trips may be cancelled at short notice during particularly hot or adverse weather conditions. For photography the best time to visit is when the cave is quietest, either on the first or last trip of the day. Some companies offer the chance to sleep over in the caves on request.

Sunlight filters down this large ice cave, creating hundreds of tiny sun stars as the ice refracts the light. Nikon D810, 24–70mm at 30mm, ISO 100, 15s at f/13, tripod. Feb.

11 REINDEER

Reindeer from Norway were first introduced to the south-west, north and east of Iceland during the late 18th century with the intention of farming the animals for meat. However, the reindeer were never domesticated and were left to roam free in the wilds with mixed success. The herds in the southwest and north eventually died out, while those in the east thrived in the remote environment surrounding Mount Snæfell. Today there are some 6000-8000 reindeer inhabiting the eastern Vatnajökull national park with numbers controlled through the granting of hunting permits from mid-July to September each year. While the area surrounding Mount Snæfell is the most populous for reindeer it is also difficult to access. Fortunately smaller herds are frequently spotted along the south-east coast, most notably between Jökulsárlón and Höfn. The reindeer generally live at higher elevations during the summer before coming down nearer the coast and RTE-1 in the winter.

What to shoot and viewpoints Reindeer cover surprisingly large distances each day and do not follow a set routine, making it a case of remaining observant and taking advantage of any spontaneous photo opportunities that may arise. For those lucky enough to spot reindeer while driving along RTE-1 please be considerate of other road users and stop in a safe area. Be extremely careful pulling off the side of the road in winter as the snow is generally very soft and deep.

Viewpoint 1 – reindeer While driving between Jökulsárlón and Höfn, or into Heinabergslón, it is worth having a long lens to hand that can be accessed quickly. Bulls with their impressive antlers make an obvious focal point though they often lose these in the winter, making the cows a more attractive proposition. Reindeer are generally quite shy and will move away from people on foot, though they are often more comfortable with vehicles. Please be considerate when approaching, keep a good distance and refrain from flying drones. Top: Nikon D810, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/4. Feb. Above: Nikon D810, 300mm with 2xTC at 600mm, ISO 320, 1/640s at f/5.6. Sep.

226

SOUTH EAST ICELAND – REINDEER

Nikon D850, 300mm with 2xTC at 600mm, ISO 400, 1/1000s at f/7.1. Nov.

SOUTH EAST ICELAND – REINDEER

227

Top: Shooting north along the coast with the Brunnhorn just visible in the background. Nikon D800E, 24–120mm at 24mm, ISO 200, 1/100s at f/8. May. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH. Above left: A whale vertebrae found on the beach. Nikon D800E, 24–120mm at 24mm, ISO 400, 1/100s at f/10. May. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH. Centre: Vestrahorn reflections on a beautiful late autumn day. Nikon D810, 14–24mm at 14mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/5.6. Nov. Right: Do not neglect the views west towards the Vatnajökull. Nikon D810, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/6.3. Apr.

236

SOUTH EAST ICELAND – STOKKSNES BEACH & MOUNT VESTRAHORN

13 STOKKSNES BEACH & MOUNT VESTRAHORN

How to get here From Höfn take RTE-99 north for 4km to reach the ring road. Turn right onto RTE-1 signposted towards Djúpivogur and drive for 6.5km, turning right onto a gravel road signposted towards Stokksnes just before the Almannaskarðsgöng tunnel. Follow the road, which can be a little rough, for 4.5km to reach the Viking Café where the entrance tickets to Stokksnes can be bought. Parking lat/long: 64.25513, -14.9935 What3words: ///uncalled.procession.everywhere Accessible: All year (winter dependant*) Road type: B – Unsurfaced Vehicle: 2WD May–October 4WD November–April *After heavy snowfall the final approach is sometimes impassable.

Accessibility Approach to main viewpoint: roadside access. There are excellent views of the Vestrahorn straight from the approaching toll road which are suitable for disabled access. However, a thorough exploration of the dunes and surrounding beaches is recommended to fully realise the potential of Stokksnes.

Best time of year/day Stokksnes and the Vestrahorn are wonderfully photogenic year round; indeed, it is difficult to take a bad picture here. During midsummer the sun rises and sets behind the mountain, creating some beautiful skies and the potential for some lovely sun stars. The unsociable hours of the midnight sun also help to keep the numbers down and reduce the number of footprints in the sand.

There are many Icelandic horses surrounding the Vestrahorn. Nikon D810, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/1000s at f/2.8. Feb.

Viewpoint 1 – Vestrahorn, sand dunes & water

Viewpoint 3 – Stokksnes sea cliffs & seals

Sand dunes surround the parking area and there are some lovely formations on both sides of the road. The key is to find a shapely set of mounds, taking care not to spoil the composition by leaving unwanted footprints in the sand. An ultra wide angle lens is required to frame the entire mountain without resorting to some panoramic trickery. The black sands work well on a moody day or, if the sky is blue, processing in black and white can create a very striking image. Keep an eye out for shallow bodies of water that can be used for reflections in still weather. There are often some pools on the northern side of the sands towards the mountain and Viking Café.

On the southern side of the headland huge waves break against the rocky cliffs and seals can often be seen swimming in the waters. The cliffs can be accessed by walking towards the radar station before turning right down an access track for 500m before several smaller paths branch off along the cliffs. There is no classic vantage point but lots of interest and photographers are encouraged to explore. Be aware that the waves here are notoriously large and frequently break over the full height of the cliffs.

Viewpoint 2 – Vestrahorn & coast Walking east to the sea front gives a lovely view looking along the breaking waves towards the Vestrahorn and Brunnhorn on the right. It is possible to use the retreating water for reflections and the shoreline makes for a beautiful leading line.

In winter the peak looks majestic with fresh snow on the tops and white snow on a black beach creates an unfailingly dramatic effect. From October to February the rock face gets direct light during sunrise and sunset, often bathing the mountain in a wonderful orange glow. The remote nature and aspect of the Vestrahorn also makes Stokksnes one of the best northern lights locations in the country, with strong foregrounds and a dramatic backdrop. This is especially true on still evenings when any standing water reflects the lights.

Viewpoint 4 – Viking village set

Viewpoint 5 – Icelandic horses

Built as a set prop in 2010 for a film that was never aired, the replica Viking village just north of the café is novel but difficult to photograph effectively. For those that do decide to venture for a look, take care as much of it is falling down. To reach the village, park at the last right turn before the barrier when returning. A path then leads north for 1km to reach the set.

The nearby horse breeding farm at Hornhestar offers riding excursions along the beach. Keep an eye out for riders who make for great spontaneous photo opportunities as they traverse in front of the peaks. There are also horses grazing much of the surrounding land, particularly towards the Viking village. Please do not feed or pet the animals.

SOUTH EAST ICELAND – STOKKSNES BEACH & MOUNT VESTRAHORN

237

ður Borg arfjö r

APR AUG MAR SEP OCT FEB OV

Brú nav ík

lur Mjóida

DEC JAN N

k SUNSET

ví

Dagmálafjall 548m

Bakkagerði

DEC JAN

Brúnavík

Geitfell 587m

Lindarbakki

Dryfjöll 1136m

Skjótanes

SUNRISE 2km

946 Víðidalsfjall 572m

Stórurð Tu n g

Kolbeinsfjara

947

Njarðvík 8.2 Stórurð Hike

Almenningsfles

7.3

Innra - Hvannagil Canyon

Sæ

MA Y

FEB

Vatnsskarð - Stórurð 8.1 Hike

Hafnarhólmi 94 9 Borgarfjörður Eystri

Geitavíkurþúfa 697m

og uv

JUN JU L

JUN UL YJ MA

SEP MAR OCT

n rta

APR

G AU

10 VÍKNASLÓÐIR HIKING & F946

Affectionately referred to as the Forgotten Fjords, the wilderness between Borgarfjörður Eystri and Seyðisfjörður is an enigmatic stretch of coastal mountains and seldom frequented inlets. The only access is via a network of multi-day hiking trails or via the F946, a rocky and rarely driven mountain road that requires a high clearance off-road vehicle and confident driving. Three basic but wellmaintained huts and one emergency shelter provide the region’s only accommodation, with camping permitted adjacent to the lodges.

Landsendi

Vatnsskarð 7 Eystra

Tindfell 879m

Staðafjall 621m

Breiðuvík

Kerlingarfjall 450m

Stóranes

Breiðuvík

Beinageit 1110m

urá

Vik

Húsavík hut Miðfell 1034m

Kallfell 938m

Bungufell 732m

Skælingur 832m

kju á

Loðmundarfj lu

ár lm

Dagmálafjall 908m

örður Borgarnes

Gunnhíldur 841m

Klyppsstaður

Car Ferr Norröna nmark from De

Skálanes

u r ö r ð eyðis fj

r fl

Sléttanes Brimness

Rjúpnafell 761m

r ð j a i s f S e y ð

Kir

F94

Landsendi Herfell 1064m

bót

Tröllanes

Skálanes

951 952

Dalatangi Flanni 803m

Vestdalsá Strandartindur 1010m

os s

EAST ICELAND – VÍKNASLÓÐIR HIKING & F946

Húsavík

Hrauná

268

Skálanes Náttmálafjall 643m

Þriggjahnjúkafjall 763m

als

Grýtukollur 1052m

An overview of Víknaslóðir, showing the proposed walking route from Borgarfjörður Eystri to Seyðisfjörður. The F906 ends at Úlfsstaðir just past the accomodation at Klyppstaður.

Herjólfsvík

Miðfjall 558m

Víknaslóðir offers a wonderfully varied canvas for photographers, boasting colourful meadows, waterfalls, deep fjords, dramatic tuff mountains and a good variety of wildlife, interspersed with long stretches of nothing. There is no singularly paradigmatic viewpoint but rather a succession of wild landscapes that look different with each visit. The following viewpoints are intended to provide a brief overview of Víknaslóðir which photographers can use to plan their own itineraries. All of the walking routes are detailed on the ‘Borgarfjörður Eystri & Víknaslóðir – Trails of the Deserted Inlets’ map which can be bought from Egilsstaðir and Borgarfjörður Eystri. This map should be considered mandatory for anyone looking to explore the region on foot or in a vehicle.

Víknaslóðir

Hvítafjall 481m

Hvítserkur 771m

What to shoot and viewpoints

Innra-Gæsavatn F9 46

já

From a visitor’s perspective this region will primarily appeal to adventure photographers who enjoy exploring and hiking as well as taking pictures. The logistical difficulties associated with travelling in such a remote area are substantial, making enjoyment of the journey necessary for a fulfilling experience.

f Gu

Dala

Seyðisfjörður

Fjúksnes Kistufell 882m

Exploring Víknaslóðir on foot in summer. Above: Nikon D90, 12–24mm at 24mm, ISO 200, 1/160s at f/11. Aug. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH. Centre: Nikon D810, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/250s at f/4. Sep. Right: Nikon D810, 24–120mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/100s at f/8. Jun. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH.

Driving the F946

Camping & accommodation

The F946 bisects Víknaslóðir from north to south, beginning at the Hvannstóð farmstead near Borgarfjörður Eystri before weaving through the mountains for 28km to reach the hut at Klyppstaður. Here the road ends, making it impossible to drive all the way to Seyðisfjörður and instead requiring visitors to return the way they came. This road is seldom driven and it is common not to encounter any other vehicles, especially when visiting slightly out of season. For this reason it is best to travel in convoy with at least one other vehicle for safety in case of breakdown. There are several steep and exposed descents with two rivers crossings near Klyppstaður.

Wild camping is not permitted and visitors staying overnight are required to stay at one of the three hiking lodges, Breiðuvík, Húsavík or Loðmundarfjörður (Klyppstaður). Staffed by voluntary wardens the huts are usually open from the 20th of June until the 10th September. Camping is permitted adjacent to the accommodation and the lodges have good facilities, albeit with no electricity. See www.ferdaf.is for hut information and email ferdaf@ferdaf.is for bookings.

If you don’t wish to drive the whole route it is nonetheless worth going to Húsavík, stopping at Mount Hvítserkur. The peak’s south face is characterised by alternating basalt and rhyolite striations tinged with beautiful pink hues.

Multi-Day hiking in Víknaslóðir There are a multitude of hiking trails crossing Víknaslóðir, all of which are shown on the ‘Borgarfjörður Eystri & Víknaslóðir – Trails of the Deserted Inlets’ walking map. For those that are able, exploring Víknaslóðir on foot is the best way to enjoy the sort of wilderness that is becoming increasingly difficult to find in a modern world.

Logistics & planning Víknaslóðir is exceptionally remote and visits need to be planned carefully both in terms of safety and logistics. Parties visiting independently of an organised group should be experienced, fit and well provisioned in order to be fully self sufficient, even in an emergency. Keep a careful watch of the weather forecast at https://en.vedur.is and leave a travel plan at www.safetravel.is

Equipment & safety Navigation can be difficult here, particularly during poor visibility and a GPS unit is recommended in addition to a paper map. Phone signal is intermittent but there are emergency radios at the three lodges. Spare shoes for wading is advised.

Suggested itinerary – Kolbeinsfjara to Seyðisfjörður The complete traverse through Víknaslóðir from Kolbeinsfjara to Seyðisfjörður, makes for a superb 52km itinerary that usually takes between three and four days to complete. • Day 1 – Kolbeinsfjara to Breiðuvík (12.5km – Paths 19/21) From Kolbeinsfjara over Brúnavíkurskarð pass to reach the emergency shelter at Brúnavík, then south past Víðidalsfjall before traversing under Kerlingarfjall to reach Breiðuvík. • Day 2 – Breiðuvík to Húsavík (13.5km – Path 30) Follow the wide valley beneath Hvítafjall west before turning south to join the F946. Follow this to Húsavík. • Day 3 – Húsavík to Klyppstaður (14km – Path 37) Follow the F946 south and then west to the lodge at Klyppstaður, with optional variations to avoid the road. • Day 4 – Klyppstaður to Seyðisfjörður (12km – Path 41) Ascend the Hjálmárdalur valley, crossing Hjálmárdalsheiði pass and descending to RTE-951 and Seyðisfjörður.

How to get here From Egilsstaðir take RTE-94 north and follow it for 69km, driving over the Vatnsskarð Eystra mountain pass to reach Bakkagerði in Borgarfjörður Eystri. RTE-946 turns off right at the first junction in the village, shortly to become the F946 after the Hvannstóð farm. Driving Start lat/long: 65.46531, -13.8603 What3words: ///trots.edgily.distorts Accessible: Late June–Early September Road type: C – Highland Road Vehicle: High Clearance 4WD To reach the suggested hiking trail stay on RTE-94, continuing for another 4km to reach a small parking area on the right, opposite Kolbeinsfjara beach. The lay-by is found 600m before the Hafnarhólmi bird sanctuary detailed on page §§§. It is easy to miss and using the GPS coordinates below is recommended. Hiking Parking lat/long: 65.53602, -13.75604 What3words: ///sugared.encourage.aquarium Accessible: Late June–Early September Road type: B – Unsurfaced Road Vehicle: 2WD Map: Borgarfjörður Eystri & Víknaslóðir – Trails of the Deserted Inlets

Accessibility This area is exceptionally remote and visitors should prepare accordingly, ensuring they can be self-sufficient, even in an emergency. This applies to drivers as well as hikers: phone reception is poor and it is a long walk out following a breakdown. For those driving the F946 in its entirety, be aware that there are two rivers to ford near Klyppstaður.

Best time of year/day Late June to early September is the best time to visit logistically, with long days, better weather and an increased likelihood of finding the hiking trails clear of snow. The huts and shelters are open from 20 June until 10 September.

EAST ICELAND – VÍKNASLÓÐIR HIKING & F946

269

01 LANGANES PENINSULA

Viewpoint 4 – Skoruvíkurbjarg & Stóri-Karl Gannet Colony What3words: ///shops.normal.cower Skoruvíkurbjarg, the northernmost point on the Langanes peninsula, is home to the second largest gannet colony in Iceland after the inaccessible Eldey Island in the south-west. A newly-built observation platform protrudes 10m from the cliff edge, giving wonderful views as the largest sea bird in the region soars over the nearby Stóri-Karl sea stack. A long lens is required to do this magnificent seabird justice, though the sea stack also makes for a lovely wide angle landscape composition.

Viewpoint 5 – Skálar abandoned village What3words: ///wobbly.ready.inspected Abandoned more than half a century ago, there is little evidence remaining to suggest this was once a thriving fishing village. Photographers expecting to see a host of ruins will be disappointed as only a few foundations remain. However, the location is culturally interesting, the sea front is very pretty and there are some excellent bird cliffs to the south at Skálabjarg.

Viewpoint 6 – Fontur lighthouse What3words: ///operative.character.fairly Located on the far north-eastern tip of Langanes, the first lighthouse was built at Fontur in 1910 in an effort to warn ships of the protruding headland after the sinking of the Norwegian vessel Frithjof three years previously. Unfortunately, a short time later an English fishing vessel was also wrecked against the rocks. The crew managed to climb up a cleft now named Engelskagjá (English gorge) before trekking overland towards the village at Skálar. Sadly all but one of the crew succumbed to exposure on the hike and a cross now stands in memorial. Arriving at Fontur some 650km from Reykjavík, it does feel like you have reached the end of Iceland. The lighthouse and nearby cliffs make for obvious focal points, though it is difficult to convey the remoteness of the location. An arctic tern lands on a fence post under the midnight sun. Nikon D810, 300mm with 2xTC at 600mm, ISO 200, 1/1000s at f/5.6. Jun.

290

NORTH ICELAND – LANGANES PENINSULA

12 HVERIR / HVERARÖND HOT SPRINGS & MOUNT NÁMAFJALL

On the eastern slopes of the volcanic Mount Námafjall lies the Hverarönd Hverir hot springs, often simply referred to as ‘Hverir’ or ‘Eldhús Djöfulsins’ (Hells Kitchen) due to the ever-prevalent smell of sulphur that so characterises the area. Situated directly on the Krafla fissure zone that extends for 100km, the hot springs at Hverir can confidently be recommended as some of the best in the country, both for the variety of geothermal formations and for the logistical ease of access. The bubbling mud pots, hissing fumaroles, incessant steam and barren ochre desert give the area a surreal and ethereal feel that is often compared to Tatooine by Star Wars fans; indeed the astronauts of the Apollo missions trained very near Hverir before successfully landing on the moon. For hikers an ascent of the nearby Mount Námafjall hyaloclastite ridge offers far-ranging views over the surrounding area as the path traverses several more geothermal hot spots dotting the hillside.

What to shoot and viewpoints Take care to stay on the marked trails while exploring the region surrounding Mount Námafjall; temperatures just below the surface can reach 80°C – 100°C. The hot springs are clearly visible from the parking area.

Viewpoint 1 – mud pots & pools The multicoloured assortment of pools, vents and fissures just west of the car park provides a host of possible compositions in a compact area. Bubbling mud pots create an excellent foreground looking north-east towards the steam vents of the Krafla Power Plant or looking directly up at Mount Námafjall itself. The rising sulphuric vapour stands out particularly well when backlit by the sun, often creating some superb silhouettes. Utilising a longer focal length it is possible to create a theatrical ‘on stage’ scene by framing sightseers against the steam and deliberately underexposing the shot. Some of the more active pools can be framed in isolation, using a fast shutter speed in conjunction with a telephoto lens to freeze the boiling mud just as a large globule is popping.

328

Top: A cluster of mud pools situated just below the main viewing platform. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 26mm, ISO 100, 1/100s at f/13. May. Above left: Nikon D90, 55–200mm at 200mm, ISO 200, 1/200s at f/8. Jun. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH. Centre: Nikon D90, 60mm, ISO 320, 1/320s at f/13. Jul. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH. Right: Nikon D800, 80–400mm at 220mm, ISO 200, 1/500s at f/11. Jul.

NORTH ICELAND – HVERIR / HVERARÖND HOT SPRINGS & MOUNT NÁMAFJALL

The sun rises behind one of the larger Fumaroles. Canon 5DII, 70–300mm at 155mm, ISO 100, 1/640s at f/8. Aug. © Martin Sammtleben / WPH.

NORTH ICELAND – HVERIR / HVERARÖND HOT SPRINGS & MOUNT NÁMAFJALL

329

17 HÚSAVÍK TOWN

Viewpoint 2 – whale watching A number of different companies offer whale and puffin watching excursions by boat, either individually or as a combined package. Skjálfandi or ‘Shakey’ Bay, so named because of the many small seismic tremors it regularly receives, is visited by some nine to 11 species of whale throughout the year. There are regular sightings of the humpback whale, minke whale and white-beaked dolphin. Less frequent visitors include the blue whale, northern bottlenose whale, pilot whale, sei whale, sperm whale, fin whale, harbour porpoise and orca.

Diving in front of the Kinnarfjöll mountains. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 140mm, ISO 160, 1/1600s at f/5.6. Jun.

It should be noted that while sightings are common, especially through the summer, this is nature and there is never a guarantee of spotting anything at all. As a photographer it is important to quickly take advantage of any opportunity that does arise. To this end a lens with a large focal range is ideal, allowing for a rapid change between wide and zoomed compositions depending upon the encounter. While a large prime might seem like a good idea, the boats often sail surprisingly close to the action and it is easy to miss a fantastic opportunity while swapping lenses. For anyone that does decide to go with a prime lens, something in the range of 300mm to 500mm works well when used in conjunction with a second camera body carrying a more general purpose zoom. A fast shutter speed is key throughout to freeze any movement of both the subject and moving boat. Tail throws, blowing and whales on or near the surface all make for interesting subjects. Minke or humpback whales breaching is an extremely rare occurrence witnessed only by a lucky few.

Viewpoint 3 – puffin & bird watching Just north of Húsavík, Lundey or ‘Puffin Island’ (one of three Lundey Islands in Iceland) is appropriately named, sheltering over 100,000 puffins through the summer months. Similarly the nearby Flatey island (not to be confused with Flatey Island in the north-west – also originally named because the highest point is a mere 20m above sea level) boasts in excess of 30 different bird species. Boat trips to both islands as well as multi-day excursions can be booked with the sailing companies in Húsavík.

Opposite: A humpback whale breaches in the early morning light. Canon 7DII, 150–600mm at 150mm, ISO 800, 1/1250s at f/6.3. Aug. © Christian Schmidt. Overleaf: A crow’s nest perspective while encountering a polar ice flow, sailing between Húsavík and East Greenland aboard North Sailing’s traditional schooner Hildur. Nikon D850, 20mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/7.1. Jun.

The characteristic humpback tail throw. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 360, 1/1600s at f/7.1. Jun.

NORTH ICELAND – HÚSAVÍK TOWN

351

07 BOLUNGARVÍK – ÓSVÖR MUSEUM

How to get here From Ísafjörður take RTE-61 north, following signs towards Bolungarvík for 11km and passing through the Bolungarvíkurgöng tunnel. Almost immediately after the tunnel, make a right turn and follow signs towards Ósvör museum. After 1km the museum and parking area comes into view on the left. Parking lat/long: 66.150047, -23.216193 What3words: ///instigator.remedies.slipped Accessible: All year (winter dependant) Road type: A – Surfaced Vehicle: 2WD May–October 4WD November–April

Accessibility Approach to main viewpoint: 1 minute, 100m, 10m of descent. The short but steep descent to the museum is flagged with paving stones and is difficult to negotiate in a wheelchair.

Best time of year/day Ósvör is best visited between June and August when the museum is open, although the site is photogenic all year. In spring and autumn the sun sets behind the mountains to the south-west, while in the summer it sets out to sea in Ísafjarðardjúp. Many of the best perspectives over the model village look west and south-west, making Ósvör an ideal sunset location. The summer sun sets behind the row boat Ölver. Nikon D810, 14–24mm at 18mm, ISO 100, 1/50s at f/4.5. Jul.

At the head of the mighty Ísafjarðardjúp and a short drive west from Ísafjörður lies Bolungarvík, the Westfjord’s most northerly village. Located close to fish-rich waters and protected by the Bolafjall cliffs and the eponymous cove, the site is one of Iceland’s oldest fishing ports and the village has a proud seafaring history. Capitalising on this heritage, the nearby Ósvör maritime museum has created an authentic replica of an old fishing outpost, with two typical 19th century dwellings, a salting hut, fish-drying facilities and several rowing boats built in the style of the period. Constructed of wood and covered in turf, the traditional architecture backdropped by Bolungarvík bay makes for a picture-perfect scene that, while admittedly a little contrived, is ideal for photography.

396

WESTFJORDS – BOLUNGARVÍK – ÓSVÖR MUSEUM

What to shoot and viewpoints

Viewpoint 2 – building interiors

The museum is open from early June until mid-August, from 9am (10am at the weekend) until 5pm throughout summer and an entry fee applies. Viewings in the winter are by appointment only. For enquiries visit www.osvor.is

If the museum is open, the building interiors provide additional scope for creativity. A fast wide angle lens is ideal in the dark, confined spaces. Please be considerate of other visitors frequenting the museum, particularly when using a tripod.

It is possible to photograph the village when the museum is closed but a tour with the guide is nonetheless recommended for the cultural and historical interest.

Viewpoint 3 – custodian traditional dress

Viewpoint 1 – Ósvör village As you wander between the buildings the wealth of foreground potential here soon becomes apparent, with possible compositions utilising the huts, boats, winch or drying areas. The nearby beach yields a good view over the houses, while scrambling up the bank below the road offers a great top -down perspective back towards Bolungarvík.

The custodians of Ósvör greet visitors in traditional fishing attire, wearing sheepskin suits donned by Icelandic sailors/ of the 19th century. This creates some unique portrait opportunities that are well worth exploring. Opposite top: A four photo panorama of Ósvör taken from just below the road. Nikon D850, 20mm, ISO 100, 1/40s at f/5.6. Jul. Bottom left: Inside one of the homes. Nikon D850, 14–24mm at 14mm, ISO 200, 1/25s at f/5.6. Right: A traditional sheepskin suit. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 450, 1/25s at f/2.8.

04 BÚÐAKIRKJA / BÚÐIR CHURCH

Viewpoint 1 – Búðakirkja church Somewhat surprisingly, the car park offers one of the best perspectives over the church, particularly in winter when the snow masks the slightly unsightly gravel. The white gateposts and dark surrounding wall complement the black pitch of the building nicely and offer the opportunity for some striking symmetrical compositions when viewed from the front. Exploring further afield there are a diverse range of foregrounds on offer, with an abundance of rock and grassy outcrops, Búðakirkja is extremely aesthetic from all angles and the most effective approach is to follow the best light.

Viewpoint 2 – graveyard Superbly situated, the small cemetery to the south merits closer inspection. The graves can be photographed in isolation, using a minimalist approach to emphasise the barren landscape, or framed in conjunction with the church.

How to get here Búðir is easily accessed from Borgarnes along RTE-54 or from Grundarfjörður using RTE-54 and RTE-574. Note that the quickest approach from Grundarfjörður is over the Fróðárheiði pass which has a brief unsurfaced section on the northern side and is frequently closed in winter after heavy snowfall. This can be avoided by taking RTE-574 along the coast. The church is well signposted off RTE-574 onto Búðavegur, where a final 2km leads past Hótel Búðir to reach a parking area adjacent to the church at the end of the road. After heavy snowfall it may be necessary to park at Hótel Búðir and walk the last few hundred metres on foot. Parking lat/long: 64.82185, -23.38468 What3words: ///sushi.photograph.simple Accessible: All year (winter dependant*) Road type: A – Surfaced Vehicle: 2WD May–October 4WD November–April * Búðakirkja can generally be accessed throughout the year, though the road conditions should be checked at www.road.is during the winter and early spring.

Viewpoint 3 – Búðahraun lava field

Accessibility

A walk through the 5000 year old lava field is highly recommended, especially in summer and autumn when the moss-covered basalt is alive with vibrant colours. The craggy formations often make wonderful silhouettes and there are some superb miniature landscapes to be found. Looking back, the rocks of Búðahraun provide a good vantage point overlooking Búðakirkja with plenty of foreground interest.

Approach to main viewpoint: roadside access.

For adventurous photographers, it is possible to follow the Klettsgata trail south-west through the lava field for 3km to reach Búðaklettur crater and Búðahellir cave.

Búðakirkja is best visited throughout September and October when the nearby Búðahraun lava field is awash with colour, or during the winter when snow blankets the ground to create a spectacular black and white vista.

Viewpoint 4 – natural harbour & Búðaós inlet Just north-east of Hótel Búðir lies the Búðaós inlet, a picturesque body of water flowing out to sea. During the winter ice builds piles up on the outer curve of the meander, creating a multi-tiered frozen water abstract.

Viewpoint 5 – Búða beach This charming little yellow beach can be accessed from the southern end of the graveyard by following one of several small paths east through the dunes for 300m.

The close proximity of the car park makes Búðakirkja very accessible and there are good views without leaving the asphalt. However, the paths surrounding the church are not surfaced and consequently wheelchair access can be difficult. Take particular care with the ground is covered in snow during the winter, obscuring many dips, hollows and holes in the lava field.

Best time of year/day

The numerous viewpoints and aspects at Búðir ensure there is always something to photograph throughout the day, no matter the position of the sun. The location is particularly recommended in aurora season as the church makes for an excellent foreground to the shifting skies.

Left: A cropped 6 image panorama of the Búðahraun lava field and Búðakirkja in autumn. Nikon D810, 70–200mm at 70mm, ISO 200, 1/80s at f/10. Oct.

WEST ICELAND & SNÆFELLSNES – BÚÐAKIRKJA / BÚÐIR CHURCH

425

CHAPTER 8

Feature pages

Iceland is full of photographic potential that is not necessarily location specific. This chapter aims to cover the logistics of these unique opportunities while providing technical information, settings and tips.

CHAPTER 10 – FEATURE PAGES 01 02 03 04 05 06

Icelandic horses �� Aurora Borealis / Northern Lights �� Iceland from the air �� Iceland from the water �� Glacier ice caves �� Shows & events ��

00 00 00 00 00 00

“ The problem with driving around Iceland is that you’re basically confronted by a new soul-enriching, breath-taking, life-affirming nature sight every five minutes. It’s totally exhausting.” – STEPHEN MARKLEY

There are a number of spectacular ice caves found throughout Iceland. Nikon D810, 14–24mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 30s at f/10, tripod. Feb.

462

CHAPTER 10 – FEATURE PAGES – INTRODUCTION

????????????? ????????????? ????????????? ??????????????. Camera, ???? at ???mm, ISO ???, ????? at ????, ????. ????. © ????

About the author

James Rushforth is an experienced and professional climber, mountaineer, skier, travel writer and guest speaker. An internationally acclaimed photographer and author, James was the GTMA Global Travel Photographer and British Drone Photographer of the Year in 2020, the British Guild of Travel Writers Photographer of the Year in 2018, 2019 and 2020, a double category winner at the International Photography Awards in 2018, and Epson Digital Splash Photographer of the Year, also in 2018. His work frequently appears in national newspapers, guidebooks and magazines around the world. He maintains an active presence on social media and is part of the National Geographic Your Shot photography team. Based in the UK, James spends much of his time exploring the Italian Dolomites and Iceland and has authored a number of books to both regions. He has partnered with Wild Photography Holidays to lead specialist photography workshops to the Arctic, Greenland, Iceland, Romania & Italy. James is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers, a Breakthrough Photography and Wilkinson Cameras Ambassador, is part of the Norrøna Pro Team and is kindly supported by Hilleberg. If you would like more information on James’ work or advice on visiting Iceland, are interested in joining him on a photography workshop, or would just like to get in touch, please don’t hesitate to contact him.

Connect with James on:

Instagram James.Rushforth Facebook James Rushforth Photography Twitter James_Rushforth

www.JamesRushforth.com

496

ABOUT THE AUTHOR