Photographing The LAKE DISTRICT by Michael Ryan

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES TO VISIT & PHOTOGRAPH

P H O TO G R A P H I N G

THE LAKE DISTRICT SECOND EDITION

STUART HOLMES

LOCATIONS OVERVIEW SOUTH EAST LAKES

1 Scout Scar �� 2 Whitbarrow �� 3 Foulshaw Moss �� 4 Gurnal Dubs �� 5 Longsleddale �� 6 Orrest Head �� 7 Queen Adelaide’s Hill �� 8 Troutbeck Valley �� 9 Brant Fell �� 10 Gummers How �� 11 Simpson Ground and Fell Foot Park �� 12 Moss Eccles Tarn and Wise Een Tarn ��

CENTRAL LAKES

1 Ambleside �� 2 Stock Ghyll Force �� 3 Loughrigg Lane and Fell �� 4 Clappersgate Bridge �� 5 Worsdsworth at Rydal �� 6 Rydal Water �� 7 Loughrigg Terrace �� 8 White Moss �� 9 Alcock Tarn �� 10 High Sweden Bridge and the walls of Scandale ��

SOUTH WEST LAKES

44 46 50 52 54 56 58 60 64 66 68 70

124 128 130 138 140 144 150 154 156

LOCATIONS OVERVIEW

11 Skelwith Force �� 12 Elter Water �� 13 Loughrigg Tarn �� 14 Elterwater Village and the Langdale Boulders �� 15 Langdale – Side Pike �� 16 Pike O’ Blisco and Crinkle Crags �� 17 Blea Tarn �� 18 Little Langdale ��

168 170 172 176 178 180 188 192

160

1 Wrynose and Hardknott �� 202 2 Hardknott Roman Fort �� 204 3 Duddon Valley �� 208 4 River Esk �� 212 5 Harter Fell �� 218 6 Stanley Ghyll Force �� 222 7 Birker Fell and Devoke Water ��224 8 Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway �� 228 9 Wasdale West �� 230 10 Britain’s favourite view �� 234 11 Yewbarrow �� 238 12 Wasdale Head �� 244 13 Wasdale from Great Gable �� 246

13 Latterbarrow �� 76 14 Grizedale Forest �� 78 15 Tarn Hows �� 82 16 Hodge Close and Holme Fell �� 86 17 White Ghyll �� 92 18 Coniston Old Man and Coppermines Valley �� 94 19 Banishead Quarry �� 102 20 Bank Ground Farm �� 106 21 Coniston East Shore �� 108 22 Brock Barrow �� 112 23 Kelly Hall Tarn �� 114

NORTH WEST LAKES

1 Moss Force and High Snockrigg �� 256 2 Buttermere circuit �� 260 3 Warnscale Beck �� 266 4 Fleetwith Pike, Warnscale Bothy and Haystacks �� 270 5 Buttermere skyline �� 276 6 Scale Force �� 282 7 Rannerdale �� 286 8 Crummock Water �� 290 9 Mellbreak �� 296 10 Western Ridges �� 300 11 Low Fell �� 308 12 Loweswater & Holme Force �� 312 13 Wild Ennerdale �� 316 14 St Bees and Fleswick Bay �� 324

NORTH LAKES

1 Thirlmere �� 338 2 Raven Crag Thirlmere – the Lakes Loop �� 344 3 Blencathra �� 350 4 Threlkeld Quarry and Mining Museum �� 358 5 Castlerigg Stone Circle �� 362 6 Tewet Tarn �� 368 7 Latrigg �� 370 8 Castlehead �� 376 9 Walla Crag �� 378 10 Keswick Boat Landings and Friars Crag �� 382 11 Derwentwater by boat and foot �� 388 12 Ashness Bridge, Surprise View and Watendlath �� 394 13 Lodore Falls �� 398 14 Castle Crag �� 400 15 Langstrath �� 404 16 Dale Head from Honister �� 410 17 Great Gable from Honister 416 18 Catbells �� 424 19 Bassenthwaite Lake �� 428 20 Sale Fell �� 434

NORTH EAST LAKES

1 Mell Fell �� 444 2 Dalemain and Dacre �� 448 3 Duke of Portland Boathouse and Pooley Bridge �� 452 4 Aira Force and Gowbarrow 456 5 Glencoyne �� 462 6 Lanty’s Tarn and Keldas �� 464 7 Helvellyn from Glenridding 466 8 Silver Point �� 474 9 Place Fell and Angle Tarn �� 478 10 Brothers Water and Hartsop �� 482 11 Hallin Fell and Martindale �� 484 12 Haweswater �� 488 13 Mardale Ill Bell and High Street �� 492 14 Wet Sleddale �� 498 15 Appleby Horse Fair �� 502

Brampton

th Fir

A710

A689

A69

Silloth A595

e ly Jun ay/Ju ust M ril/Aug Ap

March/Sept

Carlisle

Rive r Ca ldew

Feb/Oc t J Decan/Nov

A596 A595

SUNRISE Aspatria

SUNSET

Maryport

Cumbrian Coast Line

Lake District National Park & UNESCO World Heritage Site

A594

A596

Workington

A686 41

NORTH

Cockermouth

A66

A591

A66

Bassenthwaite Lake

A595

A5086

Keswick

A66

Whitehaven

A591

Buttermere

Haweswater

Thirlmere

Shap

CENTRAL

SOUTH WEST Wast Water

NORTH EAST Rydal Water

Grasmere

A595

Tebay Services & Farm Shop A592

Ambleside Ravenglass & Eskdale Line

Devoke Water

A591 A593 Windermere

Coniston

A685

A5074

Kendal

A65

A590 A590

Milnthorpe

Barrow-in-Furness

Burton-in -Kendal

Dalton-inFurness

35a

Carnforth

Morecambe Bay

A6 M6

Morecambe Isle of Walney

Kirby

Grange-overSands

A590

A5093

Killington Lake

A65 Lonsdale

A595 Ulverston

A590

SOUTH EAST

Millom

A591

A5084

A5092

A595

Windermere

Coniston Water A592

Broughton-in -Furness

Bowness-onWindermere

Esthwaite Water A593

Irish S ea

West Coast Main Line

Ullswater

Ennerdale Water

A595

A66

Rheged

Derwent Water

Crummock Water

Ravenglass

Penrith

A592

A5091

Loweswater

A66

NORTH WEST

St Bees Head

M6 Southwaite

miles

A595

Wigton

March/Sept

Feb/Oct v /No c Jan De

n de rE ve Ri

Ma Jun y/ e April/ July Augu st

Lancaster

A683

THE LAKE DISTRICT – FOREWORD Foreword by Kerry Irving and Max I have always been in awe of a good photograph, that instant moment captured in time. The beauty of today’s technology means you can take that memory and instantly share it with the world. My passion for photography started early with pictures of my first Springer Spaniel taken on a Canon Sureshot (35mm film) oh so many years ago. I’m still taking pictures of my dogs today with our three Springers: Max my adopted constant companion who helped me get back on the right path after a road traffic accident and recovery from severe depression; Paddy who lives life to the full and was born to swim and make people smile; and then there’s Harry our deep thinking affectionate youngster, three very different characters. The thing about Springers is they live for the outdoor life no matter the elements, a bit like me really; open spaces, mountains, water and making memories. There are huge benefits of being outdoors with a camera, not only for your physical health but, more importantly, for the mind. Since meeting Max our lives changed for the better. We’ve now raised over £300,000 for various charities, had over 10,000 people walk with us in the Lake District organised through our 260 thousand followers on our social media channels. We’ve met royalty twice and I consider myself very lucky to have made some incredible friends and been on some amazing life changing experiences all involving our dogs. But that’s another book altogether, it all started from taking a photograph. I cannot remember when I first met Stuart. I recall he used to come hurtling past us on his bike on our walks. Later I discovered he was a member of the Keswick Mountain Rescue Team and was responding to emergency calls, hence the speed of the pedallling. I then found out he lived on the next street and he used Canon cameras. And so the lens comparison,

FOREWORD

camera body conversations started. I soon learned no matter the weather Stuart is out there chasing the perfect shot. Stuart has a natural talent for ‘adventure’ photography. The quality of these images speaks volumes. Stuart’s book will inspire you to dust off that camera, get outdoors and explore new trails and locations. This book will not only show you some of the best places to capture that moment, but also how the seasons and our great Lake District weather can affect your pictures. Even without a camera this book will take you to some of the most beautiful places in the Lake District. It truly is a photographic masterpiece.

Kerry Irving Photographer, author and guardian of Max, Paddy and Harry. Keswick, April 2021

www.maxoutinthelakedistrict.co.uk

Max above Derwentwater. Canon 5D Mk III, 15mm fisheye, ISO 320, 1/200s at f/22. Flash. Nov. Photo: Kerry Irving.

Kerry with Max at Castlrerigg Stone Circle in February 2021. Max is proudly wearing his PDSA Order of Merit medal, presented to him for providing comfort and support to thousands of people worldwide and promoting the positive contribution animals make to human lives.

Left to right: Max, Harry and Paddy. Canon 5D Mk IV, 24–70 at 41mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/7.1. Flash. Nov. Photo: Kerry Irving

FOREWORD

LAKE DISTRICT CLIMATE AND WEATHER Preparing for the weather Don’t let bad or dynamic weather deter you from getting outside and using your camera; it’s often when the best photos are taken.

Protect yourself

Will we ever see the lakes freeze over again? Derwentwater. Canon 5D MkII, 24–105 at 28mm, ISO 100, 1/50s at f/5. Jan 2010.

As a mountainous lump sticking out into the Irish Sea on the north west tip of England it’s no surprise that the Lake District is a magnet for weather. As the prevailing wet south westerly air mass squeezes over the fells it is forced to dump most of its load of moisture as rain. As well as continuing to shape the topography the daily variable weather provides an infinite variety of subject matter to compliment the beautiful landscape. So what if you haven’t got a sun tan, you’ve taken some amazing photos.

When is the best time to visit the Lakes? The Lakes gets a bit of a bad press regarding rainfall, it doesn’t rain ALL the time. Long periods of fine weather do happen, as do droughts. Historically the driest months are April and May and the wettest is December. This is clearly of no practical use to you as you shelter from the pouring rain in late spring. Realistically you can get spells of good weather any time of the year, but also bad. Some days there is no avoiding bad weather but there is one generalisation that may help avoiding the worst of it. In any mountainous area if the wind is coming from the west, the further east you go the more chance you will have of escaping rain and finding some sun. Likewise if the wind is from the east, go west to get the rain shadow effect and find the best weather. There is huge variability and predictions are only good for a few days in advance. It’s important to check the forecast the night before you venture out.

LAKE DISTRICT CLIMATE AND WEATHER

Waterproof fabrics for jackets and trousers such as Goretex and the many other equivalents are expensive but handle pretty much everything the weather can throw at them. Waterproof footwear also makes life more bearable in the rain and when it’s wet underfoot. Wellington boots are ideal for the lowlands but don’t offer much protection and can be too slippery in the fells. A good umbrella is worth carrying, golf umbrellas are ideal but can be difficult to control in windy conditions.

Protect your camera There are simple, cost effective ways to protect your camera if it isn’t equipped with its own weather-proofing. Large zip-loc bags and tape or rubber bands work but it can get a bit cumbersome. Disposable rain hoods are plastic bags that are shaped to fit over your camera. They are cheap and effective.

Checklist • Check the forecast the day before you go out and again in the morning to help with location choice. • Look at wind strength and direction as this will have a big impact in the hills. • If the wind is from the W, go E to try to escape the rain, if its from the E, go W to find the best weather. • Protect your camera with a dry bag or plastic bag. • Bring a chamois leather to dry your lens. • Wrap up well, pack waterproofs and bring a hot drink and food. • Pack wellies and umbrella just in case. • Focus on the effects of weather: puddles, raindrops, rainbows, rain showers and snow flurries, rime ice, waterfalls, and streams in spate.

Local weather forecasts 1. Weatherline: www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk 2. Mountain Weather Information Service: www.mwis.org.uk/english-welsh-forecast/LD

Both these photos of the Rver Greta in Keswick were taken in the month of December. The image on the left shows the normal level and on the right during the December 2015 floods that badly affected large parts of Cumbria and the north of England.

Weather and climate averages Met Office data for Ambleside. Please note that station averages are only available for 1981-2010. Location: 54.429, -2.960. Altitude: 60 m above mean sea level.

LAKE DISTRICT CLIMATE AND WEATHER

Sailing boats on Windermere, long lens shot from Gummers How. Canon 5D MkIII, 70–300mm at 244mm, ISO 200, 1/800s at f/5.6. Aug.

SOUTH EAST LAKES Windermere and Coniston

SOUTH EAST LAKES – INTRODUCTION Away from the craggy peaks around Coniston Old Man the South East part of the Lakes has a gentler feel than the rest of the National Park. Glacial ice did a fine job of gouging out two of the longest lakes of the area with Windermere at 10.5 miles and Coniston at 5.2 miles long. Like today, historically the South East was the main gateway to the Lake District, aided by the arrival of the railway in Windermere in 1847. This is the busiest part of the Lakes but you don’t have to go too far from the honey pots to find quiet inspiration. Alfred Wainwright was so inspired after a walk up Orrest Head on his first visit to the Lakes in 1930 that it directed the rest of his life. The 214 Lakeland peaks he climbed and described in his illustrated guides are now collectively termed Wainwrights. Apart from Coniston Old Man the fells surrounding Windermere and Coniston lakes are modest in height. There are no shortage of panoramic viewpoints however with, amongst others, Brant Fell, Gummers How and Latterbarrow above Windermere, Brock Barrow above the south end of Coniston or Scout Scar and Whitbarrow in the south east of the area. Nestled in hollows there are many beautiful tarns and small lakes. Here we include the well known Tarn Hows and Kelly Hall Tarn, and the less well known Gurnal Dubs, Simpson Ground Reservoir, Banishead Quarry, Moss Eccles and Wise Een Tarns. For centuries Coniston Old Man has been shaped by man in search of copper and slate. The legacy is evident on the surface and for those daring enough to venture into the labrynthine tunnels underground. Coniston Lake is Swallows and Amazons country and Arthur Ransome connections pop up time and again along the east shore with its classic jetty shots and views up to the Old Man.

SOUTH EAST LAKES – INTRODUCTION

The track to Banishead Quarry below Coniston Old Man. Canon 5D MkIV, 24–105 at 60mm, ISO 100, 1/80s at f/10. Oct.

MAPS • OS Explorer Map OL7 (1:25 000) – The English Lakes South-eastern area • OS Explorer Map OL6 (1:25 000) – The English Lakes South-western area

SOUTH EAST LAKES – INTRODUCTION

e ly Jun ay/Ju ust M ril/Aug Ap

March/Sept

miles

yha

Chapel Stile

L oughr igg F ell Skelwith Bridge Hotel Clappersgate

Elterwater

Li ngmoor F ell

Elter Water

Pike of Blisco 705m

Little Langdale

s Pas A very steep nose and winding road Wry

Coniston VP5 Old Man 18 Low VP4

Yew Tree Tarn VP4 VP5:Yew tree farm

Coppermines Valley

yha

VP3

Bank Ground 20 Farm

W a t e r

C o n i s t o n

Moor Top FORESTRY ENGLAND John Ruskin’s home

314m

Sunny Bank To Broughtonin-Furness

F u r n e s s

Water Yeat

Blawith

F e l l s

Force Forge

A5084 High Nibthwaite VP1:Antony Gormley

Love The Windermere Lakes B5

284

Brant Fell

Windy Hall

Storrs

Mitchelland

Winster

Rawlinson Nab

VP3: Rigg Wood jetty Satterthwaite

VP2: High Peel Near VP1: Low Peel Near

Bowness-on-

VP1: Moss Eccles Tarn

Grizedale Forest Park

East Shore

A593

A591 Booths

Near Sawrey

Tarn

Motorhome Centre Ings

VP1

VP2: Wise Een Tarn

Sculpture Trail 14 East

Sculpture Trail Coniston West 21

Orrest Head

Windermere

Far Sawrey Claife Hill Top Cuckoo Viewing Brow Inn Stn Blackwell

Go Ape Mntn Biking Centre Sculpture Park Cafe Grizedale

& museum Carron Crag

Hoathwaite

Kelly Hall Tarn 23

Esthwaite Water

Brantwood

yha

Millerground VP2

244m

A593

VP1 Torver Wilson’s Arms

Hawkshead

238m

Adelaide's

B528

VP2 to 4

Latterbarrow

Kittchen

Coniston

Troutbeck Valley

Troutbeck Bridge

7 Queen

Outgate

VP3

White Ghyll 285 B5 17

Holehird Gardens

LDNPBrockhole brockhole.co.uk

ght

Ship Inn

Hei

yha

Wray Castle

6 28

VP1

VP2

Troutbeck

yha

Tarn Hows

VP1 VP2

VP2: Troutbeck Stagshaw village Garden Low Wood Bay Town End Resort & Spa A591 Low Wray

ife

VP1

Queen’s Head yha

Skelwith Bridge

Drunken Duck

VP3: The Valley

Waterhead

Cla

Seathwaite Water Tarn VP2 VP3 Dow Crag Old Man 778m Goat’s of Coniston Water 803m

VP1/3 VP4: Holme Fell

VP2

A592

Ambleside

Chesters

Hodge Close & Holme Fell

To Wetherlam Hardknot Pass, Eskdale, 763m Duddon Valley & Wasdale Swirl How 802m VP6 Levers Water

Banishead 19 Quarry

Rydal Water

SUNRISE

Rydal

Grasmere

4 B53

SUNSET

VP1: Kirkstone road barn

A591

Great Langdale

Feb/Oc t J Decan/Nov

To Kirkstone Pass & Glenridding

NT Regional HQ

March/Sept

Feb/Oct v /No c Jan De

To Thirlmere & Keswick

Grasmere

W i n d e r m e r e

Ma Jun y/ e April/ July Augu st

A5074

A592

Thwaite Head

Bowland Bridge

229m

321m

Rusland

22 Brock Barrow

10 Gummers How Cartmel Fell

Finsthwaite Oxen Park

Red Lion

Newby Bridge

Cotton Lowick Green Spark Bridge

Lakeside Hotel & Spa

Staveleyin-Cartmel

Newby Bridge Hotel

Booth

11 Fell Foot Simpson Ground Park Reservoir

Whitbarrow Witherslack

A590

Backbarrow

Haverthwaite

A590 Greenodd

2 B5

A590 To Ulverston

Field Broughton

Orton

To Junction 39 & Penrith

Tebay Services & Farm Shop (Southbound)

VP2: Upper valley

Tebay Services (Northbound)

Sadgill

rro

ng sle

Kentmere

Greenholme Tebay Hotel & Caravan Park Brotherdale Head

Longsleddale

A685 38 Tebay

dd al

VP1: The long valley

River Ken

Bo th rr e ‘o ow th dd er’ al e

Lake District National Park & UNESCO World Heritage Site

Gurnal Dubs

Garnett Bridge

VP1: Gurnal Dubs

ve Ri

Whi nfel l Beacon

Staveley Mill Yard

Wilf’s Cafe Hawkshead Brewery Wheelbase Bike Shop More? The Artisan bakery

To Kirkby Stephen

Selside

Staveley

VP:2 Potter Tarn Eagle & Child

A591

Grayrigg

Patton Bridge

Riv

rin

Lowgill

B52

Crook

Lakeland Climbing Centre

Scout Scar

Kendal

Fisher Tarn Reservoir

Booths

Underbarrow

Wilkinson Cameras

VP2:Scout Scar Crosthwaite

Waterstones

Asda

A684 To Sedbergh & M6 New Hutton

Oxenholme

Brigsteer

er Riv

Millholme

B6254 Natland

Gil

Middleshaw

A591

The Howe Sizergh Castle

A5074

River Ken

Row

Morrisons /Aldi

Sainsbury’s

VP1:Cunswick Fell

A685

Meal Bank

Burneside

Old Hutton

Sedgwick

Whitbarrow National Nature Reserve

Levens

Gatebeck

Stainton A590 Levens Hall & Gardens

Mill Side

Hincaster

Endmoor A590

Leasgill Crooklands

Heversham

Foulshaw Moss Foulshaw Nature Reserve

Scout Hi l l

Woodhouse 36

LOCATIONS

1 Scout Scar �� 44 2 Whitbarrow �� 46 3 Foulshaw Moss �� 50 4 Gurnal Dubs �� 52 5 Longsleddale �� 54 6 Orrest Head �� 56 37 7 Queen Adelaide’s Hill �� 58 8 Troutbeck Valley �� 60 9 Brant Fell �� 64 10 Gummers How �� 66 11 Simpson Ground and M6 Fell Foot Park �� 68 12 Moss Eccles Tarn and Wise Een Tarn �� 70 13 Latterbarrow �� 76 14 Grizedale Forest �� 78 15 Tarn Hows �� 82 A683 16 Hodge Close and Holme Fell �� 86 17 White Ghyll �� 92 18 Coniston Old Man and Coppermines Valley �� 94 19 Banishead Quarry �� 102 20 Bank Ground Farm �� 106 21 Coniston East Shore �� 108 22 Brock Barrow �� 112 23 Kelly Hall Tarn �� 114

Nook

Milnthorpe

A65 Lupton

To Kirkby Lonsdale

Barbon

ORREST HEAD

‘I saw mountain ranges, one after another, the nearer starkly etched, those beyond fading into the blue distance. Rich woodlands, emerald pastures and the shimmering waters of the lake below added to the pageant loveliness, a glorious panorama that held me enthralled.’ – from Memoirs of a Fellwanderer by Alfred Wainwright Orrest Head is one of the best local hilltop viewpoints. Situated within walking distance above the town of Windermere at an elevation of 784 feet it provides a 360 degree panoramic view over the Southern Lake District.

What to shoot and viewpoints It’s a pleasant woodland walk full of bluebells and wild garlic in May and June on the way up to Orrest Head. The main attraction here however is the 360 degree panorama you get from the summit. There are benches on top facing most directions which make good foreground subjects. To the west and north the panorama takes in the major fells of Coniston Old Man, Scafell Pike, Bowfell, Great Gable, the Langdale Pikes around to Fairfield and Red Screes. The lower hills to the east and south are nicely rolling with dry stone walls and some large trees. This can be dramatic with a morning mist accentuating the interlocking hills and ridges. A long lens is useful here to get closer to the hills or boats on windermere. The lake itself snakes off to the south between forested slopes.

Orrest Head this way! Canon 5D MkIII, 70–300mm at 155mm, ISO 100, 1/250s at f/5. November

Opposite: Rusty gate, dry stone walls, sheep, hills, meadow flowers, so much to photograph on Orrest Head. Canon 5D MkIII, 70–300mm at 244mm, ISO 200, 1/320s at f/7.1. Aug.

How to get here The path to Orrest Head starts from the other side of the A591 from the Nat West bank near Windermere Station and the Tourist Information Centre. There is some parking in the lay-by up the A591 or try your luck in town. Cross at the lights at Nat West Bank and walk up the lane that is signposted to Orrest Head. Follow the road up past all the houses and round the switchbacks. You pass Steve Hicks blacksmiths on the right and the wood yard and follow the path on the right up into the forest. At the wall turn right past a couple of benches, through a kissing gate and up rocky steps to the summit of Orrest Head.

Lat/Long: 54.380393, -2.9024452 what3words: ///reds.huddling.looked Grid Ref: SD 414 986 Postcode: LA23 1AJ

Accessibility The walk up from the Tourist Information Centre takes around 30 minutes. The trail climbs about 125m (425ft) initially on a tarmac road but getting a little rougher with rocky steps near the top.

Best time of year/day You can get picture postcard images here on most sunny days but to get inspirational photos you need good light or dramatic conditions. Autumn is best for fell and tree colours.

‘Quite suddenly we emerged from the trees...’ Wainwright quote on interpretive sign on Orrest Head. Canon 5D MkIII, 24–105mm at 28mm, ISO 100, 1/40s at f/16. Aug.

SOUTH EAST LAKES – ORREST HEAD

TROUTBECK VALLEY

Many consider the Troutbeck Valley to be one of the prettiest of the Lake District. Due to the lack of public road it presents a scene of pastoral calm and beauty. With dry stone wall-enclosed fields, stone-built barns, sheep grazing in idyllic flowery meadows, summer hedgerows bursting with life and a backdrop of high fells the combination makes this a worthy place to wander with a camera.

What to shoot and viewpoints Viewpoint 1 – Kirkstone road barn The Kirkstone Pass road is a spectacular drive (or bike ride) linking the Patterdale Valley with Ambleside and Windermere. From the top of the pass the descent towards Windermere gives some fine views down into the Troutbeck Valley. In particular there is an old stone barn located just off the road and perched above the valley giving a good foreground subject with the backdrop of the upper valley. The barn is located opposite the end of a hill in the Troutbeck Valley called The Tongue.

The main issue is there are not many places to stop on the narrow winding road. The best place is a small lay-by on the opposite side of the road from a gate and footpath (NY 413 061). The lay-by is located 1.6 miles below the Kirkstone Pass Inn or 4.5 miles up the Kirkstone Pass road from the A591/A592 mini roundabout at Cooks House on the Ambleside Road (SD 406 993). From the lay-by cross the road and go through the gate. Instead of following the footpath downhill contour right for 150m to find the barn close to the roadside wall. The ruined barn looks towards the east but for most compositions you will be looking north up into the valley meaning it works most times of the day. All seasons will give some interest, it is a little overgrown and green in mid summer however. The ruined wall on the south side gives a lead in to the barn and is most visible when the bracken dies down in autumn. Opposite: Kirkstone road barn in summer. Canon 5D MkIV, 17–40 at 29mm, ISO 100, 1/1000s at f/4. July.

Tortoiseshell butterfly in a field in the Troutbeck Valley. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 400mm, ISO 200, 1/160s at f/11. July.

CENTRAL LAKES – TROUTBECK VALLEY

TROUTBECK VALLEY

Viewpoint 2 – Troutbeck Village

Viewpoint 3 – The valley

The village is really a collection of tiny hamlets that have gradually joined up over time. This is a very well kept Lakeland village with many listed houses dating back to the 17th century. The village tea room sells a ‘Discover Troutbeck’ self-guided walking map highlighting the fascinating heritage, vernacular architecture, features and some of the spectacular views. The walking tour of about a mile starts at Townend Barn, a traditional farmhouse looked after by the National Trust. If you time it right you could witness the annual pancake race, duck race or the pets blessing event. Refresh yourself in either of the two 17th century pubs: the Mortal Man or the Queens Head.

Access to Troutbeck Valley is limited to local traffic, there is no parking in the valley. This means you have to walk or use a bicycle for access which is good for spotting compositions. I use a bicycle for access from Troutbeck Village itself where there are various lay-bys and places to park. Access to the valley is from Town Head via Ing Lane (NY 414 038), below the Queen’s Head pub, which leads downhill and along the valley past the bathtub barn. Alternatively below the church (NY 412 026) and follow the small road and track through Limefitt Holiday Park. There are no definitive viewpoints, it’s just a beautiful place to wander taking pot shots at whatever takes your fancy depending on the conditions of the day. The lanes in the valley are a joy to amble along any time in any season. On a warm summer day butterflies flit from one flower to the next, the farmers are busy making hay, it’s an idyllic scene and, apart from the modern farm machinery, one that has changed little in hundreds of years. At the end of the tarmac road you will see the white-painted farmhouse of Troutbeck Park. From here you have a few options: continue past the farmhouse on a footpath leading to waterfalls in Trout Beck and an interesting stone slab bridge. By taking the footpath to the right across the field you follow Hagg Gill to another beautiful stone barn or climb up to The Tongue, the hill in the middle of the valley, for an overview looking south.

Tortoiseshell butterfly in the Troutbeck Valley. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 400mm, ISO 200, 1/200s at f/10. July.

How to get here

Accessibility

The first location on Kirkstone Pass is described in the chapter. Troutbeck Village is located 3.5 miles from Windermere train station or 4.8 miles from Ambleside.

Accessibility is very easy with flat walking mainly on roads. You have the choice to explore beyond the road end on trails which are the usual rocky fell paths. Walk as far or as little as you like.

From Ambleside follow the A591 for 1.8 miles to a sharp left turn 100m past the Low Wood Bay Resort and watersports area. Follow the narrow but very scenic road all the way to the strung out village of Troutbeck which starts after 2 miles.

The quiet road up the valley is wheelchair-friendly. The only issues will be access, it’s a bit hilly from the parking areas in Troutbeck village. Also the road is narrow single track and passing places are few and far between so it could be an issue if a tractor or car want to get past.

Queens Head Hotel

Lat/Long: 54.425706, -2.9047747 what3words: ///archduke.poppy.discusses Grid Ref: NY 413 037 Postcode: LA23 1PW

CENTRAL LAKES – TROUTBECK VALLEY

Best time of year/day The valley is picturesque so suitable at any time of year. For me late spring to the end of summer is the best when the hedgerows and fields are full of flowers and blossom with butterflies flying between. The Kirkstone barn is best when the bracken has died back in autumn. Cold winter mornings can yield some good scenes with frosty hedges and snow on the fells.

Hay making in the Troutbeck Valley from the Kirkstone road. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 286mm, ISO 100, 1/640s at f/5. July.

Field barn in the Troutbeck Valley. Canon 5D MkIV, 17–40 at 19mm, ISO 100, 1/40s at f/16. July.

It’s time for your bath. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 182mm, ISO 100, 1/320s at f/5. July.

GRIZEDALE FOREST

Grizedale Forest consists of over two thousand hectares of woodland managed by the Forestry Commission. Seen one Forestry Commission forest, seen ‘em all right? Wrong! What sets Grizedale Forest apart, beyond its lovely setting, is that since 1977 it has collaborated with internationally renowned artists to produce a sculpture park within the woodland. Sculptures are made using natural materials such as wood and stone and can make interesting subjects set amongst the trees and landscape.

What to shoot and viewpoints On the road to the visitor centre you pass a number of parking spots and trail heads where it is perfectly possible just to wander off into the vast expanse of forest. Take a map and a compass and know how to navigate or you ‘Some Fern’ by Kerry Morrison. HDR +/-2 stops. Canon 5D MkIV, 17–40 at 17mm, ISO 500, 1/30s at f/13, tripod. Nov.

may find yourself lost in the labyrinthine network of forest tracks. The first parking spot you come across is Moor Top which gives access to Juniper Tarn and Goosey Foot Tarn, neither of which are named on OS maps but are on the Grizedale Walks map available from the visitor centre. The visitor centre in the valley bottom is a good place to start your exploration. There is usually an artist in residence here. Pick up a copy of their trail map highlighting a number of marked trails ranging from easy 1km to strenuous 16km hikes with all the main sculptures marked. The staff here are extremely helpful and can point you in the direction of specific highlights or suggest walks depending on time, fitness and ability. Another possibility is to come armed with a mountain bike, or you can rent one here, which will give quicker access to many of the sculptures and viewpoints. You won’t necessarily be able to follow all the walking trails on a bike however. The visitor centre has a cafe and toilet facilities. The bottom of the valley is largely dry stone wallenclosed fields with grazing sheep and a few beautiful specimen trees. The forest above the valley is primarily coniferous but with lots of mixed and deciduous areas too. There are areas of larch that turn golden yellow in autumn. Typically the lower areas are deciduous or mixed with the conifers on the higher ground. A stream runs along the valley bottom which can look lovely with autumn colours around. In spring there are patches of bluebells. The sculptures themselves are widely distributed and well marked with numbered locations on the trail map, there are currently 52 marked on the map. The numbered sculptures are also useful for locating yourself on the map. There is a concentration of sculptures around the visitor centre which are easily accessible. Keep your eyes peeled for squirrels, both red and grey. Whilst Grizedale is mostly about the immediate interest with the sculptures, the trees and forest, the bracken, lichen, mosses, funghi, etc. There are also wider vistas of the surrounding fells from a number of places. One such is Carron Crag which is reached via the red 5km trail. Carron Crag is 314m and gives very good views of Coniston Old Man, Dow Crag, the Helvellyn and Fairfield ranges, out to the Howgill fells and south to the estuary sands of Morecambe Bay. Opposite: ‘Taking a wall for a walk’ by Andy Goldsworthy. Canon 5D MkIV, 24–105 at 24mm, ISO 500, 0.3s at f/22, tripod. Nov.

SOUTH EAST LAKES – GRIZEDALE FOREST

An autumnal day of sunshine and showers at the old blast hut. Canon 5D MkIV, 17–40mm at 21mm, ISO 400, 1/80s at f/13. Oct.

BANISHEAD QUARRY

Banishead Quarry waterfall is said to have been created in the late 1950s by a couple of young local lads who removed the stones that prevented the stream dropping into the quarry hole. This act of vandalism didn’t go down well with the local farmers when the water level rose and started flowing out of the adit and down through the tips eroding the track. The farmers managed to re-divert the stream back to the main channel but the damage was done. Looking on the bright side it makes a fantastic little photo location.

What to shoot and viewpoints Viewpoint 1 – Walls on the walk in Walk up the road and veer left towards Scar Head Campsite then right following the tarmac road to its end. There are bridleway signs marked for Walna Scar. The road turns into a track past the houses and becomes rough and stony making it unsuitable for wheelchairs. Coniston Old Man comes into view directly in front with a walled track and stone barn for foreground which works well in the morning or evening light. Stay right at the barn and past a small quarry. The well built walls here lead your eye towards Dow Crag up beyond with an isolated thorn tree on the side of the track to add interest.

Opposite: A backlit autumn tree and polariser give good contrast. Canon 5D MkIV, 24–105 at 32mm, ISO 100, 1/5s at f/22, polariser, tripod. Oct. Dow Crag and Coniston Old Man on the walk in. Canon 5D MkIV, 24–105 at 60mm, ISO 100, 1/80s at f/10. Oct.

You reach a farmhouse up to the left and a gate and stream, cross the bridge and aim for the large spoil heap ahead. On arrival at two gates, go through the right hand one and across the stream. You are now 1.5km from the roadside parking. The path passes below the large spoil heap which has an interesting tree on its right slope. The deep hole of Banishead Quarry (SD 278 959) is located a further 320m up the path and is fenced off.

Viewpoint 2 – East end of the quarry This is a morning location if it’s sunny unless you want the sun to the side or in your face but that would put the falls in deep shadow. With an early sun the waterfall at the far end of the pool will be illuminated as well as the colourful ‘rusted’ rocks on the right of the falls. There is a steep path down to the water’s edge at this end, take care as it’s loose. Some good images can be had from up high on the sides as well as at the water level. The birch tree can be framed against the water, in autumn the leaves turn yellow and can be very effective when backlit in the afternoon. A polariser is useful for getting rid of reflections making the tree stand out against the water. A still day is best here or you could try to use a ND filter for a long exposure to smooth ripples.

Viewpoint 3 – West end Walk around the north side of the quarry hole to find another path down to the water’s edge. This vague path is extremely steep and loose and great care should be taken to avoid a fall and injury or take an early bath. From down here you are looking across the rusty rocks to the side of the falls. There are gorse bushes down here too which can be very colourful when in flower.

Viewpoint 4 – Downstream waterfall The water that cascades into the quarry is only a fraction of the stream flow. The main part continues downstream where there is a further waterfall in the main stream itself. This involves another scramble to get down but it’s not too hard. The stream flows over a smooth slab which could be good for some high speed photography or abstracts. You can continue up on the main path to reach the Walna Scar Road from where you can descend back to Coniston village or return the same way you came up.

102

SOUTH EAST LAKES – BANISHEAD QUARRY

SOUTH EAST LAKES – BAINSHEAD QUARRY

103

Windermere from Loughrigg Brow. Canon 5D MkIII, 14mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/7.1. Sept.

The tree at the west end of Rydal Water. Canon 5D MkIV, 17–40 at 17mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/14. Sept.

RYDAL WATER

Viewpoint 5 – Coffin Route.

The Swan

Heron Pike 612m Forest Side

VP3: Alcock Tarn

A591

Alcock Tarn

VP2: Grey Crag

28 Wordsworth 7 Grasmere

8 Dove Cottage White Daffodil Town Hotel & Spa End VP2: First VP1 Summit VP3: G ra s m e re Far summit VP2: Footbridge

SUNSET

Lord Crag

Baneriggs

Dow

Bank

VP5: Coffin Route

gh Lou

VP1: River Rothay

r R VP3: Panoramic Grasmere

rigg

r Te

Loughrigg Terrace

Rydal Water

yha

To Skelwith Bridge

CENTRAL LAKES – RYDAL WATER

Intake Wood

VP6: to the summit 335m Lad Crag

VP4: North Shore VP1: East End

Rydal Mount

Rydal Hall

Rydal

VP3: South Shore Pelter Bridge Car Park VP2: Rydal Cave r

VP5: Skyline views

High Close 43

500

William Wordsworth 5 at Rydal

Nab Cottage

Ewe Crag

B53

148

VP4: Woodland Wall Huntingstile Crag

Chapel Stile

Elterwater

Redbank Wood

Sped ding Cra g

metres

Nab Scar White Moss Car Park

Hunting Stile

SUNRISE

Moss

hay

r How S il v e

Wyke Plantation

Feb/Oc t J Decan/Nov

Wordsworth Museum

wordsworth.org.uk

The Wyke

March/Sept

Feb/Oct v /No c Jan De

VP1: Yew tree y Gill Wr a

e ly Jun ay/Ju ust M ril/Aug Ap

Loughri gg Fel l

nty

Loughrigg Lane & Fell 3 Loughrigg Holme

Pelter Bridge

Loughrigg Cottage

A591

t hay

Grasmere

r Rotha

B5287

Allan Bank

Sam Read yha Bookseller Heaton Cooper Studio

Ma Jun y/J e ul Augu y st March/Sept April/

To Thirlmire & Keswick

a l e B eck

Opposite: From the north shore on a misty morning. Canon 5D Mk IV, 100–400 at 300mm, ISO 100, 1/250s at f/14. Sept.

sed

d ta

South shore: The footpath and wall makes good leading lines. Canon 5D MkIII, 100–400 at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/320s at f/5. Nov.

ill

If you don’t fancy the roadside path there is a lovely walk along the picturesque old Coffin Route back to Rydal which climbs high above the road and offers views looking generally south over the lake. To find the path you need to go to the right end of White Moss car park and follow the path beyond but instead of turning up immediately left, cross the main road bridge over the stream and take the path that climbs up left from here. Once up on the coffin route there are stone walls, mossy rocks, old oak trees and a lofty position giving views to the fells including Wetherlam and Coniston Old Man. Further along as you start to descend towards Rydal village you have a good clear view west up Rydal Water including the islands. You arrive at some trees and then pass above the gardens of Rydal Mount. At the road turn right and go down the hill past Rydal Hall and the church to the main road. Go left and it’s a short walk back to Pelters Bridge.

To Ambleside

How to get here From Ambleside follow the A591 towards Grasmere and Keswick. You pass through Rydal Valley which has many fine trees close to the road, some on raised rocky knolls that are especially good to photograph in misty and low light conditions early in the morning. Just over a mile outside Ambleside turn left over the narrow Pelters Bridge. After the bridge turn immediately right up a small lane to a car park on the left. It’s also possible to start from the other end of the lake at the White Moss car parks.

Lat/Long: 54.445172, -2.9816186 what3words: ///twinkled.vibrates.revolts Grid Ref: NY 364 059 Postcode: LA22 9LW

Accessibility

Above: Rydal overlook from the south side. Canon 5D Mk III, 17–40 at 17mm, ISO 100, 1/80s at f/13. June.

The complete circuit around the lake is 5.5km and should take around two hours following good tracks and paths. The trails are a little rough in places and are not wheelchair friendly.

Best time of year/day In winter the lake occasionally freezes over to spectacular effect. Springtime brings new growth with lots of daffodils and bluebells. In summer all is green and lush. Autumn brings morning lake mists and vibrant colour in the trees. The best time of day is early morning to catch the mist and spot any wildlife, or late afternoon/ evening to make the most of the golden hour. East end of the lake. Canon 5D Mk III, 15mm fisheye, ISO 100, 1/60s at f/9. June.

CENTRAL LAKES – RYDAL WATER

149

LOUGHRIGG TARN

Loughrigg Tarn is a beautiful circular valley lake surrounded by farmland and a variety of trees. On a windless day the Langdale Pikes are reflected in the still water. It is situated just north of Skelwith Bridge, outside of Ambleside. In the summer the tarn has a carpet of yellow water lilies and was a favourite location of William Wordsworth, who described it as ‘round, clear and bright as heaven.’

What to shoot and viewpoints Viewpoint 1 – Tarn overview On the path just beyond the campsite the view opens out revealing the tarn below with the Langdale Pikes beyond. There are a couple of benches here to sit and while away your time. It’s an idyllic spot to photograph the sunset.

Viewpoint 2 – Lakeshore Go over the stile in the metal fence down to the tarn edge. There are many vantage points here by the water with trees, boulders and lily pads in the foreground, and on the left a wall and fence to add foreground interest.

Viewpoint 3 – Cottage Above the tarn. Rather than dropping to the lakeshore, follow the track along past The How, a beautiful traditional cottage, for a different perspective of the fields, trees, fence and tarn.

Viewpoint 4 – Loughrigg Fell The slopes of Loughrigg Fell. Just beyond The How a path heads off through a gate on the right. A National Trust sign points to Loughrigg Fell. The path follows the wall for 300m with occasional good views between the trees of the Langdale Pikes. Just before a stile and a stream, head steeply up the fell. The path is stepped most of the way and represents the most direct way to the summit of Loughrigg Fell. A rocky knoll part way up provides a great vantage point down onto Loughrigg Tarn, Elter Water, into the Langdales and up onto Wetherlam. The path leads directly to the summit of Loughrigg Fell where there are superb views in all directions, well worth the effort.

Opposite top: The tarn from the slopes of Loughrigg Fell. Canon 5D MkIII, 24–105 at 55mm, ISO 100, 1/100s at f/5.6. Oct. Opposite: The Langdale Pikes beyond the tarn. Canon 5D MkIII, 24–105 at 47mm, ISO 200, 1/320s at f/11. Sept.

Stitched panorama from Loughrigg Fell. Canon 5D MkIII, 24–105 at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/60s at f/11. Oct.

How to get here From Ambleside follow the A593 towards Skelwith Bridge for 2 miles. Turn right up Ellers Brow, a narrow and very steep road signposted ‘High Close 1.5 miles.’ Drive up this road, pass a farm and up the hill, continue straight at a junction to another junction where you will find various parking lay-bys. From the lay-bys walk down the road (turn right from Ellers Brow road) to a minor road (a ‘Y’ entrance), opposite a post box in the wall, leading to cottages. Follow this then go right at the junction passing more cottages to Tarn Foot Lodge and take the path through the left of two gates leading to Loughrigg Tarn. If there is no space in the lay-bys, you can use the B5343 roadside pay and display car park on the right a third of a mile beyond Skelwith Bridge. From the end of the car park follow a path through the wooded fell to Crag Head. The path meets the road on the south side of the tarn, turn left to find the path after 150m.

Lat/Long: 54.427020, -3.0101681 what3words: ///suppers.bets.washable Grid Ref: NY 345 039 Postcode: LA22 9HF

Accessibility This is a short walk along a fairly level path suitable for wheelchairs. The sides of the tarn itself can get wet and muddy. The climb up Loughrigg Fell is steep.

Best time of year/day Autumn is the obvious time of year to visit for the colours. There is photographic potential here in any season however. At either end of the day the lakeshore views east and west plus the ease of access mean this is a great location with sunrise and sunset potential. Sunset in summer can be spectacular behind the Langdale Pikes to the north west.

00 LOCATION

173

Sunrise cloud inversion from the top of Crinkle Crags overlooking the Langdale Valley. Canon 5D MkIV, 24–105 at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/30s at f/11. Self timer and tripod. Nov.

Britain’s favourite view, Wastwater and surrounding hills at sunset. Canon 5D MkIII, 24–105 at 28mm, ISO 100, 30s at f/22, 10 stop ND, tripod. Oct.

YEWBARROW If you don’t want to descend the very steep and notoriously tricky scramble directly down the ridge from Stirrup Crag you need to back track to roughly half way between Yewbarrow summit and Stirrup Crag summit. In the hollow you will find a narrow path marked with a small cairn which makes a gradual descending traverse on the west side below the crags towards the col of Dore Head. When you meet the descent path from Dore Head turn a sharp left and follow this all the way down the valley. The path becomes indistinct in places over boggy bits but reappears again soon after. You end up rejoining the ridge path of the ascent route which should be followed back to the stile, gates and car park.

Opposite: Red Pike and Pillar from Yewbarrow. Canon 5D MkIII, 17–40 at 17mm, ISO 100, 1/60s at f/10. Feb.

How to get here Accessed via Santon Bridge to the west of Wasdale. Take the road towards Nether Wasdale then after 1.8 miles the road goes over the River Irt flowing out of Wastwater. Turn right immediately after the bridge and continue towards Wasdale Head for 3.6 miles. There is a car park at the foot of Yewbarrow’s west ridge at Overbeck Bridge, 1.7 miles before Wasdale Head.

Lat/Long: 54.449891, -3.2853493 what3words: ///noon.flips.steady Grid Ref: NY 167 068 Postcode: CA20 1EX (Wasdale Head 2.5km)

Accessibility This is a very steep mountain with a reputation for being the hardest climb to a summit in the Lakes. All routes require use of hands at times and easy scrambling. The climb up is 600m (1968ft) and the circuit is 6.7km. The path is occasionally vague so good map reading skills are necessary in case of bad visibility. There is no wheelchair access here.

Best time of year/day Top: Looking back down Wastwater from above Great Door. Canon 5D MkIII, 24–105 at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/11. Feb. Middle: The ascent path up the ridge of Yewbarrow. Canon 5D MkIV, 24–105 at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/320s at f/8. Jan. Bottom: Sunset colours on the Scafell peaks. Canon 5D MkIII, 24–105 at 60mm, ISO 100, 1/60s at f/6.3. Feb.

242

SOUTH WEST – YEWBARROW

Yewbarrow can be climbed any time of the year. There are obvious safety issues in icy or snowy conditions, it is a mountain so refer to the notes on being prepared on page 30. Low sun at either end of the day and the winter months will help with added drama and contrast. The primary viewpoint is towards the Scafell range so this favours evening for sunset on these slopes.

SOUTH WEST – YEWBARROW

243

SCALE FORCE

‘ Scale Force, the white downfall of which glimmered through the trees, that hang before it like the bushy hair over a madman’s eyes’. – Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s graphic description of Scale Force. Hidden away in a deep tree-lined gorge between Red Pike and Starling Dodd, with a total fall of 170ft, this is the highest single drop waterfall in the Lakes.

What to shoot and viewpoints The walk in to Scale Force gives good views across Crummock Water to the mountains opposite . There are gnarled hawthorn trees and bluebells in spring. The falls are in two main parts, the upper slender fall and the wider lower one. There is a path on the side of the stream taking you close to the lower falls. A wide angle works well with rocks or logs in the stream bed as foreground and the falls behind. You may need to get your feet wet to get the best angles. The lush mossy and wooded ravine has a tropical look to it (ignoring the temperature!), especially after rain when the sides are dripping wet. A clearing after a rain storm can give very pleasing shafts of sunlight through the spray mist. If you are feeling adventurous it’s possible to climb the next rocky steps to get better views of the upper falls and the fallen logs that have created a small dam. This can be dangerously slippery and it’s not recommended. When framing your shot try to avoid getting sky in the picture that would create a distracting highlight drawing people’s eye away from the main subject. Above the first fall, balanced on slippery rocks. Canon 5D Mk III, 14mm, ISO 100, 6s at f/22, tripod. Nov.

Position a willing friend in the scene to add colour, scale and human interest. Spray from the falls can be a problem, especially when it’s windy. Go prepared with a chamois leather or dry lens cloth to wipe your lens. It’s possible to climb up to Red Pike from the east side of the beck to follow Location 5 on page 276. The route climbs steeply up the east side of the beck on an obvious stepped path but after 500m veers leftwards away from the beck and up the heathery slopes on less obvious paths to the top of Red Pike. Opposite: A true friend won’t mind posing in the drenching spray while you spend ages composing your shot. Mamiya 7II.

How to get here Access is via Buttermere Village and involves a walk of 40-60 minutes one way. Park in the LDNPA car park at the back of the Fish Hotel in Buttermere. Follow the path towards the lake and after 100m go through the kissing gate on the right. From here it’s 700m or 0.4 miles to the attractive hump-backed Scale Bridge. Cross the bridge then turn right. The path is OK until the bridge over Ruddy Beck, around 700m further on. Cross the bridge and take the path on the left going uphill. The path soon becomes a little more vague and wet in places. You are generally aiming for the col between Mellbreak and the lower slopes of Starling Dodd. So long as you are following a path in roughly the same direction and slightly uphill you will eventually reach a gate in a wall after 1.3km or 0.8 miles and around 100m, 330ft, height gain. After the gate continue to a footbridge crossing Scale Beck (NY 150 171) with the waterfalls upstream. It’s best to take a map and compass and know where you are.

Lat/Long: 54.540904, -3.2782495 what3words: ///juicy.table.harder Grid Ref: NY 173 169 Postcode: CA13 9UZ

Accessibility The walk to Scale Force is around 3km, with approximately 100m of elevation gain. The footpaths are initially good and easy to follow but become quite vague in places. Allow around one hour to get here. The paths are both rocky and boggy in places so good waterproof boots are essential if you want to keep your feet dry.

Best time of year/day This waterfall is impressive any time of the year. In winter it has been known to freeze up, during an extended cold spell you can get impressive ice formations building. Due to its north-facing aspect the falls never see direct sunlight. Bright sunny days however can create problems with too much contrast so for photography it’s best to come on an overcast day. This will also allow slower shutter speeds for blurring the water. After heavy rain the falls are very impressive but there is a lot more spray to contend with.

282

NORTH WEST LAKES – SCALE FORCE

There’s some power in Lucy’s voice! A wild day where sea foam was blowing up the beach at Fleswick Bay. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 100mm, ISO 320, 1/4000s at f/6.3. Jan.

Top: A mirror-like Thirlmere from VP2, the north west shore. Canon 5D MkIII, 17–40 at 29mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/18. Mar. Above: Water lillies after rain at Harrop Tarn. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 400mm, ISO 1000, 1/1000s at f/5.6. Aug.

340

NORTH LAKES – THIRLMERE

Above: Through trees near Harrop Tarn to the slopes of Helvellyn. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 227mm, ISO 1000, 1/640s at f/5. Aug. Below: Raindrops on grass at Harrop Tarn. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 371mm, ISO 500, 1/250s at f/5.6. Aug.

Above: Red squirrels in the forest above Thirlmere. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 400mm, ISO 1000, 1/160s at f/5.6. Aug. Below: Harrop Tarn on a wet August day. Below right: The road on the west shore of Thirlmere in Nov.

NORTH LAKES – THIRLMERE

341

HALLIN FELL AND MARTINDALE

Martindale is a beautiful and remote enclave that seems a world apart from the madding crowds of the Lake District honey pots. Picturesque barns stand isolated in vivid green fields surrounded by dry stone walls and ancient oak trees, all overlooked by sweeping fells of bracken and heather. In the autumn the valleys echo with the bark of red deer stags in rut; the area has the largest population of deer in the UK outside of Scotland.

Barn, fields and a patch of snow from Beda Fell. Canon 5D MkIII, 70–300 at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/800s at f/5. Feb.

What To Shoot and Viewpoints The Old Church of St Martin This is said to have existed since 1220 AD although the present construction is ‘only’ around 500 years old. The interior has simple charm with oaks beams and stone flags on the floor, a reading desk installed in 1643 and a Roman font from the time of their occupation. Bring a wide angle lens and a tripod for interior shots.

Yew tree The ancient twin-trunked yew tree behind the church is estimated to be over 1300 years old. A good composition can be made by carefully framing a long branch of the tree on the left, looking back at the trunks with the sarcophagus to the right.

Barns, fields and fells From the car park in front of the church you can get a good shot of the fields, barn, tree and walls looking south up the valley. Use a long lens in the evening light for a very dramatic composition. Both of the valleys, Howe Grain and Boredale, have roads going up them and are worth exploring further for barns in fields and valley compositions. The area is rich in wild flowers in spring and summer and there is always the chance of a close encounter with red deer, especially if you venture onto the fells towards the head of these valleys.

Red deer The best place to see red deer is on the fellsides and valley bottom of the Howe Grain Valley. Continue up the road past St Martin’s Church and drive as far as you can go. Just before Dale Head farm there is a parking spot for two cars, with further roadside verge parking. From here walk through the farmyard and continue up the bridleway. Keep your eyes peeled, the deer seek sanctuary in the valleys of Bannerdale and Ramps Ghyll but you could come across them anywhere around here. Unless you get lucky a long lens is essential if you want to get reasonable shots.

Opposite. Clockwise from top left: Autumn colours in Boredale from Hallin Fell, Red deer on the side of Hallin Fell, Inside the Church of St. Martin. The road up Howe Grain. Snowy walls on the fells above Martindale, Martindale Church.

486

NORTH EAST LAKES – HALLIN FELL AND MARTINDALE

How to get here

Accessibility

By car: Pooley Bridge at the east end of Ullswater is easily reached from Penrith and the M6 motorway. Follow the B5320 through Pooley Bridge to a small roundabout where you should take the second exit onto High Street. Turn right after 0.2 miles onto the Howtown road. After 3.5 miles the road climbs up some steep hairpin bends to the Coombs. There are roadside parking areas or you can leave the car by the Church of St. Peter. Continue on to the next junction and turn left to find the old Church of St Martin.

The walk to the top of Hallin Fell involves a grassy climb of 130m in half a mile, or 800m. The circumnavigation is around 2.5 miles or 4km along generally good footpaths but with occasional short rougher and rocky sections. Good walking boots are recommended. Not suitable for wheelchairs. Much of Martindale can be explored from the roadside including, if you are lucky, getting a good view of the rutting deer.

Lat/Long: 54.564669, -2.8742937 what3words: ///photos.desktops.dots Grid Ref: NY 435 191 Postcode: CA10 2ND

By Ullswater steamer: take a steamboat from Pooley Bridge to Howtown then take the lakeshore footpath to follow the lake shore or straight on up to climb Hallin Fell.

Best time of year/day From Hallin Fell the u-shaped valleys of Martindale run due south so either end of the day is best to avoid the sun directly in your camera. Autumn turns the ubiquitous green of summer to a kaleidoscope of colour. Hallin Fell top is often above any cloud inversion on the lake so good for an early start if valley fog is forecast. Martindale makes a good day out any time. The deer rut starts in September and usually lasts through October.

NORTH EAST LAKES – HALLIN FELL AND MARTINDALE

487

Selfie: Wet Sleddale dam overflow from the river bank downstream. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 135mm, ISO 640, 1/400s at f/5.6. Mar.

Looking west from the summit of Blencathra into the winter sunset. Canon 5D MkIV, 17–40 at 17mm, ISO 100, 1/160s at f/9. Dec.

TECHNIQUE NAME

SHOWS AND EVENTS Most counties have traditional agricultural or local shows. Cumbria is no exception but brings its own twist to the genre. For instance have you ever had your beard or boots judged? Any idea what stick dressing is? Have you ever witnessed terrier racing or duckling herding? Local shows are a perfect place to fill a memory card with candids, caricatures and local character. Each show format is slightly different with attractions that may include any of the following: local crafts including stick dressing, hound trails, fell races, Cumberland wrestling, sheep dog trails, vintage vehicles and machinery, carriage driving, sheep, cattle, dogs and poultry, falconry, tug of war, trade stands, beer tent, Wasdale has a best beard and best shepherd’s boots competition, sheep shearing, terrier racing and duck herding. On the opposite page is a list of some local shows taking place through the year. Check local information centres and websites for dates and for other shows. Above: Vintage tractors and stick dressing at Wasdale. Below clockwise: Cumberland wrestling at Borrowdale. Herdwick sheep judging. Quiet stall at Wasdale. One man and his dog, Loweswater.

514

SHOWS AND EVENTS

Some quick tips for photographing at shows. • Check the event programme to see what is happening when and get to the location early or you may be fighting to get a good viewpoint. • Keep in mind where the sun will be, it’s better to have your subject nicely lit rather than struggling to photograph into the sun. • Less is more, use longer focal lengths to get in close to the action or subject rather than trying to capture the whole venue. • Isolate the subject by using a wide aperture and narrow depth of field. • Don’t hesitate to use the Auto or ‘P’ Program camera setting for grab shots – better to get the shot than miss it whilst fiddling with settings. • Set the scene, look for compositions, backdrop or subjects that identify the event.

A trail hound in full flight near the finish line. Canon 5D MkIV, 100–400 at 400mm, ISO 1000, 1/3200s at f/5.6. Sept.

Penrith Show – July

www.penrithshow.co.uk

Coniston Country Fair – July

www.conistoncountryfair.co.uk

Langdale Gala – July

www.langdale-gala.co.uk

Ambleside Sports – Last Thursday in July

www.amblesidesports.co.uk

Rydal Show – Early August

www.rydalshow.co.uk

Hawkshead Show – August

www.hawksheadshow.co.uk

Millom and Broughton Show – August

www.millomandbroughtonshow.com

Cockermouth and District Agricultural Show – August

www.cockermouthshow.co.uk

Grasmere Sports – Late August Bank Holiday

www.grasmeresports.com

Lakeland Country Fair, Torver, Coniston – August

www.lakelandcountryfair.co.uk

Black Combe Country Fair – August

www.blackcombecountryfair.co.uk

Ennerdale Show – Late August

www.ennerdaleshow.co.uk

Loweswater Agricultural Show – September

www.loweswatershow.com

Borrowdale Shepherd’s Meet – 3rd Sunday in September

www.borrowdaleshow.org.uk

Westmorland County Show – 2nd Thursday in September

www.westmorlandshow.co.uk

Eskdale Show – September

www.eskdale.info/show.html

Wasdale Head Show and Shepherd’s Meet – October

www.wasdaleheadshow.co.uk

World’s Biggest Liar – November

www.santonbridgeinn.com

SHOWS AND EVENTS

515

ABOUT THE AUTHOR – STUART HOLMES Biography Stuart is a professional photographer who was brought up around Keswick in the Lake District. What better place to fuel and facilitate a passion for all things outdoors. After twenty years travelling the world as an exploration geologist he made photography his full time profession supplying images to newspapers, magazines, local tourism agencies and others. Aware of the risks of an ‘all work and no play’ philosophy Stuart continues to be successful at not falling into that trap with regular adventures (pandemic permitting) both at home and abroad. In 2011 work on the first edition of Photographing the Lake District began after a meeting with Mick Ryan, then advertising manager at UKClimbing.com. In 2014 fotoVUE was officially set up with Mick and Stuart as directors and the Lake District book became the first fotoVUE photolocation guidebook to be published. The next five years saw a further eight titles published with many more being worked on. Stuart stood down from daily duties and directorship in 2019 to concentrate on his own projects

leaving Mick to manage an increasingly numerous, varied and exciting range of titles. Over the last seven years Stuart has worked as a photo guide for Wild Photography Holidays. The typically one to two week-long trips see small groups of like-minded folk of all ages exploring beautiful locations in Iceland, Greenland, Norway and now many other countries including the UK. Covid 19 did a pretty good job of wrecking all travel plans but Stuart counts himself extremely fortunate during this period to have the Lake District as his back yard; definitely a sanity-saver during lockdown. So, what of the future? Much depends on the Covid 19 situation along with the increasingly serious climate crisis. To quote Bob Dylan: The Times They Are a-Changin’

Bad hair day in the Himalayas. Descent from Nangmari II in the far north east of Nepal. We failed to make the second ascent by 50m. Canon 5D MkIII, 24–105 at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/400s at f/11. Nov.

522

ABOUT THE AUTHOR – STUART HOLMES

KESWICK MOUNTAIN RESCUE Keswick MRT is one of twelve teams in and around the Lake District. The team comprises up to 50 team members who live in and around Keswick. The team’s area covers the northern part of the Lake District and includes England’s three highest mountains – Skiddaw, Helvellyn and Scafell Pike. In recent years the team has dealt with around 100 rescues a year not including many alerts where the incident has been resolved without the need to send team members out. The team operates anywhere in the Lake District or further afield to assist with major incidents such as searches or flood events.

The team and me I joined the team in early 2016 and it has become an important part of my life. Callouts can come at any time of day or night and to many different scenarios. People clearly don’t choose when they have an accident or get lost and there is always a buzz of excitement when a callout comes in. Some team members have decades of experience and a few have well over a thousand rescues to their name. This enormous amount of accumulated knowledge stands us in good stead on callouts where younger and fitter members can race up the hill with equipment mentored and guided by older members who have seen similar situations many times before. I carry a small camera on rescues and if I am not tied up with operations I will record activities for the purpose of pushing the mountain safety message and promoting the team that relies wholly for its existence on donations. Social media has become increasingly important to get safety and conditions messages across to the general public. Our stories are picked up by the local and occasionally by the national press. You really can’t beat running around on the fells with your mates, going out in all weathers to help folk. Have a look at the team website for more images and information: www.keswickmrt.org.uk

Top and above: Descending the snow ridge from the Aiguille Du Midi and ice climbing on the Mer De Glace during pre-winter training in the Chamonix Valley.

Right: Great North Air Ambulance assists us on Catbells and a difficult technical crag rescue of a fallen climber on Raven Crag in Borrowdale.

KESWICK MOUNTAIN RESCUE

523

fotoVUE guidebooks take you to the most beautiful places to enjoy and photograph.

P H O TO G R A P H I N G

THE LAKE DISTRICT BY STUART HOLMES FOREWORD BY KERRY IRVING AND MAX – PHOTOGRAPHER, AUTHOR AND GUARDIAN OF MAX, PADDY AND HARRY

Lakes • Fells • Valleys • Waterfalls • Cottages and Farmhouses • Woodlands • Rivers • Bridges • Boats • Jetties • Wildlife • Classic Views • Landscapes and Panoramas • Villages • Shows and Events • Historic Houses • Castles • Gardens This comprehensive photo-guide will help all photographers, from beginner to expert, find, explore, and make the most of over 100 of the best photographic locations in the Lake District. Including hundreds of viewpoints and advice on how to get the best photographs. Author and professional photographer Stuart Holmes has lived in the Lake District all his life and has been taking photographs for over 30 years. His work has been published and exhibited around the world. For information about all our photo-location guidebooks visit:

www.fotovue.com £29.95 ISBN 9781916014589

9 781916 01458 9 >

Photographing The LAKE DISTRICT

Articles inside

Orrest Head