台灣環島 - A trip around the Island of Taiwan

台灣環島

A trip around the island of Taiwan.

Michael Vincent Manalo

台灣環島

A trip around the island of Taiwan.

Michael Vincent Manalo

ĺ˝°ĺŒ–

Changhua It was midday, the sun was steady and furious as I walked from my home in Taichung to the bus stop. I felt like I didn't know what I was doing, thinking if I should still do this or not, but I was thinking of this for some time and I believe there should be no turning back.

I boarded the train to Changhua.

I walked far, really far. for almost 2 hours from Lugang to the beach, with a heavy backpack all the way. I stopped at a small store to buy a farmer's hat and then 3 bottles of water which I drank it all in less than 5 minutes. The feeling of reaching the beach at night almost made me break into tears, but I then realized it isn't a swimmable beach as there were big walls blocking it as if like a surreal dream, but the surrounding feeling gave me goosebumps as I heard the distant barking of dogs, soothing waves and the sound of car engines as they drove past the area. I walked around and then after that put my tent up in that wild place.

I woke up to the sun caressing my cheeks with its warm rays and what I saw outside was the sun looking back at me and the sea gently landing its waves. After that, I started to pack my tent, and then I started to walk and tried to hitchhike, but with no luck after an hour of walking, I went to the same convenience store I went to the night before and had my breakfast in there. I walked again after that, another long walk and with some stroke of luck, I was able to hitchhike to the bus station to Changhua.

嘉義 Chiayi

My mind was wandering outside the train's window, with my eyes trying to catch up with the scenery of western Taiwan. After several stops, I finally arrived at Jiayi, a place where I pondered, read philosophical sayings, and walked an hour to a lake because I couldn't find the bus that goes in that direction. So I hitchhiked back and learned to use the facilities of the train station to a maximum, like charging my phone on the train station, putting my bags in the luggage area, for a small fee of cours.

Everyday I would walk a lot, to travel to the interesting spots, eat what locals like to eat, read and observe.

I was trying to save as much money as I can during the trip, but during the first day after the trip to Changhua, I decided to stay overnight in a hostel and then go to the Lantan lake the next day and find a spot to sleep near the lake.

I tried to look for the bus stop where I could take the bus to Lantan lake, but after walking for almost half an hour looking for it, I gave up and decided to walk to the lake. I did however leave my big backpack inside the luggage area of the train station and then I started to walk amidst the hot and humid environment of the city.

Together with the fumes from the passing cars, and the numerous motorcycles passing the busy streets preparing for the hour of customers to arrive was almost enough for me to just stop. To make things worse, my phone battery was up to an end, so that meant the map I have on my phone will be soon gone, but then I pressed on and finally, with a good stroke of luck I made it and let me tell you, the view of that night overseeing the city was something hard to forget.

I told myself that I will go back to the train station to get my tent and sleep in a kind of atrium near Lantan lake but to my demise and because of my carelessness, I couldn't get my tent because the luggage room of the train station closes at 8:00 pm.

This horrified me as I didn't want to spend more money since my trip isn't even halfway yet, so I sat inside the train station and charged my phone on one of the outlets and tried to find a really cheap, hole-in-the-wall like inn and luckily I found one. It's very basic but it works for me.

On that steaming hot afternoon I left for Tainan.

ĺ?°ĺ?— Tainan

It was hot, I was carrying a heavy backpack, but I had my fill of Jiayi's famous turkey rice and I was waiting for the next local train that goes to Tainan - people say, you haven't been to Taiwan if you didn't go and experience this city.

I went here many times before and I know well what I will do here and that is to eat, and let me tell you, I eat a lot.. This city is one of the oldest in Taiwan and the vibe is quite special.

Afternoon started and the heat, reflected from the concrete roads grabbed onto my body and there was no escapiing it that's the southern heat of Taiwan. I arrived at the Anping Old District and there I just wandered until the sun, slowly started to hide.

I walked and walked and found myself at the beach - the perfect place for me to pitch my tent on.

The water was refreshing as I swam in the dark. and In that darkness, I was still able to make out the silhouettes of people happily wading in the beach.

I decided to leave the beach and find a place to eat. I walked and walked and I found myself in a famous local place where they serve a local dish called Bawan, a kind of meatball,.

I went back, where it was almost pitch black, and started to look for a place to put my tent. My eyes started to get used to the darkness and I was able to find a good spot. I decided not to use a flashlight for I didn't want to raise attention. I successfully put up my tent with no flashlight and started to take off my clothes and jumped in the cold seawater.

During that night, I heard a group, by the sound of it - people younger than me - move around my tent, somehow inspecting it, and asking each other why did this person (me) put up a tent here, and they started to flash their light onto the inside of my tent but after a short while, continued to walk away.

That next morning, I was woken up by the sound of the gentle waves and of the sun gently touching my legs, The view was unforgettable.! I looked at my watch and it was 6am and I saw several people - some surfers, beach-waders, and the like. This somehow gave me such an excited mood and I didn't waste time - I immediately took to the sea and bathed.

I was lucky to hitchhike back to a place where I could take a bus. In Taiwan, there are a lot of blue trucks and with them and their drivers, I have noticed, I have been able to hitchhike, almost 90% of the time. I remembered, on that day, I ate too much for breakfast.

I took a bus to the train station and from there I charged my phone. At this point, I haven't had a proper shower yet, but I think being in this kind of state at some point in life is important. It was an hour past noon and the train to Kaohsiung arrived.

➟雄 Kaohsiung

I was very excited to reach this city, as I've lived here before back in 2014. It always was a place with good memories. I was planning to stay somewhere near a cliff but I received an invitation from a friend to stay in their place and so I did.

In here I was happy, we talked a lot about ideas, logic, religion, eccentricities and our life.

This couple, my friends bonded with me all throughout the days and we talked a lot to the point of forgetting time.

Here, I spent four days, and with that amount of time, I feel like I came out with a better self.

I didn't want to leave their company,, but then I wanted to circle around Taiwan and I'm not even halfway yet.

We parted ways and I was back with my heavy backpack, my clothes and my self that will soon be unwashed and dirty for the next few days. Comforts of home will be taken away again. Sometimes it really is good to get away from all the comforts in life, it somehow changes how you see your life, it changes how you think and how you appreciate life. It makes you appreciate simple things more.

ĺ?°ć?ą Taitung

The road to Taitung is beautiful, mesmerizing even! This part of Taiwan - the east coast gets hit by typhoons a lot, but its beauty always is stunning and serene.

As I got off the train, I immediately noticed that English signs on the train station were much less. I found the luggage area and paid for it then like the usual, I took my tent and headed out to find the sea in this part of Taiwan.

On the map, it is called a city, but the streets are empty most of the time, which for me is really good. Before coming here, a lot of Taiwanese friends mentioned how beautiful this place is, I always brushed it off as exaggeration but when I was actually there, I believe I had to take back my words as it wasn't exaggerated in any way.

The friends that I stayed with in Kaohsiung, messaged me that they wanted to come and meet me in Taitung and this surprised me! They came and on that night we all stayed in the tent.

The stars on that clear night filled the sky, I don't see that a lot and I was moved.

The next morning we decided to swim in the lake that you can see on the other page. After that, we then decided to eat at an aboriginal restaurant.

We had to walk 30 minutes from the lake to the restaurant and we were lucky as they were able to accommodate us despite them expecting 2 buses full of customers to arrive.

The aboriginal dishes were surprisingly similar to the taste of Philippine food, but this doesn't surprise me since the Taiwanese aboriginals and the Philippine aboriginals share the same roots.

It was parting ways once again, they had to go back to Kaohsiung and I had to go more north. For some reason, the people working at the ticket booths seemed to have an unpleasant mood, and answer our questions in a nonsensical, sarcastic way, but it didn't matter, we were able to get tickets. They left at around 2pm and I had to wait until 4pm. I used this time to charge my phone, power bank and as well as my body.

Riding the train in the east coast was like being in a dream - lush mountains, seascapes almost trying to reach you, vast skies just focusing their eyes on yours, and small settlements that give off a feeling of peace..

花蓮 Hualien

宜蘭 Yilan

頭城

Toucheng

When I was on the train to Yilan, I realized that my power bank is not with me, and to my horror I realized that I forgot it in the Taitung train station. I guess you lose something but also gain something then. In Yilan, the spot I was planning to put up my tent was not actually a really good place, didn't feel so safe either, so I decided to go to another place - with my phone's battery running low I had to decide on which place I should go, as it was also very late. After minutes of finding a place, I decided to go to Toucheng because I saw that there is nice little beach area I can sleep in but when I got there, the sign says, it opens on the next day, so there was no turning back, and I camped in a nearby seemingly, abandoned parking space. It was humid and hot and almost no wind passed but because I was too tired, I just fell asleep.

I was woken up by voices of people from a distance, I felt that maybe they saw my tent so. I immediately but excitedly packed my tent, walked and started the journey to the train station. I rode the train to Fulong, a famous beach in the north.

福 隆

Fulong

It was a tourist beach, you had to pay 100 NTD to get in and it opens only at 8am and then closes at 5pm. I got there very early around 6:45am, and there was nothing much to do except to wait for the gates to open.

I tried to put up my tent, but it was met with heavy resistance from the wind. I was embarrassed with this, but with a smile on my face, I packed my tent and turned my worries away and ran to the beach. The scenery was breathtaking, it made me stay until I got really sun-kissed.

äš?äť˝ Jiufen

The heat was intense and I once again walked back to the train station. Upon walking I suddenly slipped, and then I saw that my sandals were broken. You could see it on the first photo on the left. So I bought some glue from a nearby 7-11, patched it up on the foot of the train station, while onlookers looked, and then I did my usual routine of charging and resting in the station.

When I felt like it was time, I took the train to Ruifang - the gateway to Jiufen, which is he place where the prominent Japanese animator - Hayao Miyazaki had his inspiration for the Spirited Away film.

A lot of Japanese go here, even in the Ruifang train station where I asked for directions, the man thought I was Japanese as well. - me.

I went up this 600 meter mountain and camped here at night where an alluring view of Taipei can be seen.

The day before was filled with so many hours of walking, and searching for the places I wanted to see. The place has so many tourists but going through the waves of people was worth it, because when you see the view - it makes you feel like you are in a time-warped vicinity that seems unreal. It is situated high up in the mountains, and from there you can see the sun greeting the sea, the roads that lead up to where you are and nearby cities. Jiufen's small alleys, narrow stairs, quaint old houses that lead to old Japanese teahouses, cafes and small shops are all so vivid, yet almost like a surreal area in itself.

While wandering in the afternoon I managed to hide my tent in a small open, abandoned house for me to wander freely. Night came, and my legs were tired, but before coming here I was thinking to go up the mountain in the middle of the city and put my tent up there, but then it is a 600m high mountain and going up at night wasn't the best time, but then, I didn't care - I didn't want to sleep in a hostel there as I could imagine the prices can deflate my money bag. So I first went up to the mountain point of entry, and asked around if it is ok to go up there at night and if it was legal to put up a tent. Luckily all of the answers to my questions were "yes", so I bought a flashlight from the store, went back to get my tent, went back again to the mountain and I started to head up. The first stop, I could see the city from above, and I continued on, and on, glancing at Jiufen which becomes smaller and smaller every inch of the way. I reached the top and a cool wind blew on my sweating warm skin. The night sky was beautiful, the stars almost greeting me with warmth, and Taipei can be seen from the distance and I can almost make out Taipei 101, which I believe to be Taipei 101 since its shape and its towering height gave it away. That night, I felt so happy and so moved that I can feel the hair on my body rise up, it was that intense!

ĺ&#x;şéš† Keelung

It was early in the morning and I heard noises mumbled from the distance, and as it got closer I realized it was a group of people talking and they were going up the mountain and to where I was camped. This woke me up, not in a bad way but in a way that reminded me that I should get going soon, to the city north of my location, to Keelung.

When they went past the tent, I started to go out and breathe, that fresh, early morning air, while looking at Jiufen, the ocean and what looks like Taipei in the distance. It was a beautiful feeling As I reached Keelung, I was immediately surprised as it seemed totally different from other cities in Taiwan. As far as I'm concerned it reminded me so much of a Philippine city.

ĺ?°ĺŒ— Taipei

After noon, I decided to leave Keelung and go straight to Taipei. The towns and the scenery that I passed through going to Taipei had a special charm to them, lush forests, a lot of rivers, and for me it seemed a lot different from the wide, mountainous, and ocean fronted east area of Taiwan.

I have lived in Taipei before and I think the life in this city is starkingly different from the rest of the cities, it deserves its own book.

ćĄƒĺœ’ Taoyuan

Seeing so much people in Taipei, and all the way to Taoyuan after almost 2 weeks can be a little difficult getting used to again. This was the start of me going back to the normal pace in my life again.

苗栗 Miaoli

台中 Taichung

In the end, I felt relieved, happy and had this great sense of accomplishment but also felt sad that it had to end, although, that end signalled a new beginning.

After the trip, I started to do many things which I don't usually do at home - I started to cook for each meal; there was less motivation for me to buy things which I don't really need; my mind somehow felt more clear and I realized that both the simple life of living everyday versus living an intense nomadic life everyday is almost the same. The simple life is not necessarily boring since what you have to do everyday at home is not technically the same, the challenge is how to live life everyday in a balanced way as opposed to the nomadic life, finally I believe balancing life to maintain a peaceful momentum is the key to living.

Michael Vincent Manalo Author

He is a visual artist and a traveler. His work is inspired by the imagined memories of nostalgic and dream-like environments; his works documents their decline into post-apocalyptic, nightmarish creations. Manalo has exhibited and attended artist-in-residences in several countries - Australia, England, Germany, Georgia, Italy, Japan, Lithuania, Philippines, Poland, Serbia, South Korea, Taiwan, UK and USA. He has won the 2010 1st prize in the Digital Art Category at the Art Museum of Chianciano Terme, Italy and 2011 Best Photography Illustration from The Redmond Digital Arts Festival in Washington, USA, 2015 2nd place in the Secret Art Prize from the Curious Duke Gallery in London and Nominated for the APBF Signature Art Prize of 2014 from the Singapore Art Museum. He was also named as one of 2014 Asia's Top Ten Most Inspiring Visual Artists in Asia by the Top 10 Publications in Malaysia.

You can see more of his work here: www.michaelvincentmanalo.com

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