Michigan Blue Travel & Adventure 2020

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE ISSUE

Fulfilling dreams on the water

Living adventures, cool destinations, great stays and liquid fun

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Shred Camp: Women find balance on the water Sunrise surprise in Alpena | A Porcupine Mountains journey Michigan cheeses | Benton Harbor live theater | Nature in Bay City

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CONTENTS

features

34 Sunrise surprise Alpena’s history and place on Lake Huron offer interesting and fun vacation opportunities for adventurous visitors at any age.

By Ellen Creager

40 Pining for the Porkies

46 Finding their balance

Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park is a rugged landscape with majestic views that attract adventurous visitors of all skill levels.

By Jim DuFresne

Women at summer Shred Camp in Empire learn to surf, paddleboard, stretch and do yoga in search of balance in their lives.

By Amy S. Eckert

ON THE COVER Ella Skrocki rides the waves on Lake Michigan.

Photography by Beth Price

“In the middle of Michigan’s most rugged corner, we were without tents, sleeping pads or the key to the next cabin.”

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRYAN BYRNES

JIM DUFRESNE

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CONTENTS

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“We are winemakers, but we are also a family of fruit farmers.

We value that and its importance.”

TAYLOR SIMPSON

in every issue:

68 Reflections

53 Excursions

8 Letters and Contributors

24 Home Decor Fresh colors boost a home’s curb appeal.

By Jeanine Matlow

Getting lost on the Crystal River.

By Jerry Dennis

9 Wavelengths

32 Vintage Views

Bend like the willows.

By Howard Meyerson

Michigan anglers were known to catch real whoppers in the era of tall-tale postcards.

By M. Christine Byron and Thomas R. Wilson

departments:

Mountain Bike Epic, Hackley & Hume House events, Harvest Stompede on Leelanau Peninsula, DIY Street Fair and Boat the Blue Antique and Classic Boat Show.

Compiled by Marla R. Miller

columns: 22 Undercurrents Little Traverse Conservancy is working to protect northern shorelines.

By Howard Meyerson

62 Michigan Top 5 Author Wade Rouse writes about these special Michigan places in his novels.

By Kim Schneider

10 Waterways Benton Harbor’s Ghostlight Theatre; Port Sanilac appeal; Mackinac House B&B; Bay City’s Tobico Marsh; Onekama’s Portage Point Inn; and Jackson artist celebrates water.

28 The Sporting Life Andrea Ketchmark’s life has revolved around hiking, and the longest trail in America.

By Marla R. Miller

30 State of Mine Closing the cottage, an essay.

By Julie Bonner Williams

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A third-generation Leelanau winemaker creates Aurora Cellars vineyard and winery.

By Greg Tasker

66 Dining Destination 26 At The Helm Saving the North Manitou Shoal Light.

By Amy S. Eckert

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64 Tasting Room

Serve these at home. Michigan craft cheesemakers create unique and classic styles.

By Kim Schneider

PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARON PETERSON (LEFT); COURTESY AURORA CELLERS (RIGHT); ILLUSTRATION BY GARY ODMARK (BOTTOM)

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CONTRIBUTORS

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Hosko

EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Tim Gortsema MANAGING EDITOR: Howard Meyerson GENERAL INQUIRIES: editorial@mibluemag.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Christine Byron, Ellen

Beth Price A Traverse City photographer with a love of the outdoors and eye for great composition, Beth focuses on water, environmental portraiture, food, surfing, outdoor adventure and yoga. She is passionate about authentic moments, telling stories, and documenting people and places that foster appreciation for the natural world. Find her at bethpricephotography.com

Creager, Jerry Dennis, Jim DuFresne, Amy Eckert, Jeanine Matlow, Marla R. Miller, Kim Schneider, Dianna Stampfler, Greg Tasker, Julie Bonner Williams, Dawn Williams, Thomas R. Wilson

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IT

Ellen Creager Travel writer, journalist and author of seven nonfiction books for children, Ellen has written and reported from around the world. She was the Detroit Free Press travel writer for 13 years. Today, she lives in Grosse Pointe Woods near Lake St. Clair. She enjoys tai chi, kayaking and growing yellow roses.

Her work has appeared in many magazines and in newspapers worldwide.

Jim DuFresne Following his deep love of sunsets and shorelines, Jim has spent much of his career writing about the outdoors in Michigan, Alaska and New Zealand. He lives in Clarkston, Michigan, and has authored more than 20 books including a hiking guide called “Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park.” Jim is the co-founder and main contributor to Michi ganTrailMaps.com.

IT DIRECTOR:

Julie Williams A devotee of nature, history and literature, Julie’s work has been published in Grand Rapids Magazine, The Grand Rapids Press, Seventeen magazine and Hunting & Fishing Collectibles Magazine. She is an award-winning poet and a professor at Grand Valley State University where she has taught Writing and Journalism. She lives on the lakeshore with her husband.

We welcome letters to the editor. Please send letters in care of: Editor, Michigan BLUE Magazine, 401 Hall St. SW, Suite 331, Grand Rapids, MI 49503, or email to howardm@geminipub.com.

Letters may be edited for reasons of clarity and space.

Kim Schneider Well-known for her stories about travel, food and wine, Kim’s journalism career spans decades of working with newspapers, magazines and specialty publications.

Today she edits and writes from her home in Leelanau County where she lives with her husband. Her first book, “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die,” was released in 2018. Find her at kimschneider.net

Jeremy Leland

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WAV E L E N G T H S

BY HOWARD MEYERSON

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY iSTOCK

B

Bend like the willows

eing a lifelong water person, I fi nd every issue of BLUE is a pleasure to work on, an opportunity to explore and bring the best aspects of waterfront living and lifestyles to our readers.

I still remember my fi rst ocean plunge as a young child visiting family in Atlantic City, New Jersey, an experience full of excitement, fear and pleasant surprise. I quickly found that to float requires letting go. The years that followed were spent as a waterlogged teen in any backyard pool come summer. Then came learning to sail on Lake St. Clair and the nuances involved: learning to read the wind, the fi ne points of shaping sails, boat handling in rough waves followed by years spent racing large and small boats and cruising.

My river years were no less formative;

fluidness and balance are essential for paddling proficiency, as is reading currents, and those lessons are valuable in other everyday parts of life. Bruce Lee, the martial artist and actor, reportedly once said: “Notice that the stiffest tree is most easily cracked, while the bamboo or willow survives by bending with the wind.”

One of my favorite features in this issue gets at these ideas, among others. It presents the experiences of women who take time out of their lives to attend “Shred Camp,” a yoga, stand-up paddleboard and surfi ng camp held annually in Empire.

Their motivations are varied, but they come to fi nd balance.

“Lake Michigan’s sheer size and power can feel overwhelming at fi rst, but the women learn to embrace the water’s flu-

idity, its constant change and movement.

Metaphors between the women’s experiences in the water and in the rest of their lives abound: instability and adaptation; balance and release; turbulence and calm; falling and rising, again and again,” the story reads. “We tend to take ourselves too seriously. But there is beauty in just letting go. When was the last time you just splashed and tumbled around in the water?

For most of us adults, it’s been a long time.”

This understanding is essential in life; just look at what all of us have learned about adaptation in the Year of the Pandemic. Sometimes we need to bend like the willows.

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Howard Meyerson Managing Editor, Michigan BLUE Magazine MICHIGAN BLUE

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GhostLight Theatre illuminates Southwest Michigan

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on’t be fooled by the modest gray brick building on Hinkley Street in the Benton Harbor Arts District.

Once an ordinary printing press, the space has been fully redesigned to house the ubercreative GhostLight Theatre. Already into a second season, GhostLight is on a mission to showcase uniquely engaging productions and story-telling education.

Founded in 2018 by Paul Mow and Marty

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Hesse, GhostLight (ghostlightbh.com) was named after the light left energized on a stage when unoccupied and otherwise dark.

“Theater has the power to educate people of all ages,” said Mow, an accomplished tenor with the New York City Opera and past director for the Twin City Players and Southwest Michigan Symphony. “I saw a need for a more immersive performing experience in this area. That’s why having a

black box theater is so important.”

While a traditional proscenium stage is framed, like a TV set, with a distance between the action and audience, a black box theater breaks the “fourth wall” between performers and audience. “This way, guests feel more a part of the action because they see everything from set changes, direction, lights going up and down, and so on,” Mow said. “It’s very exciting and performers and

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY GHOSTLIGHT THEATRE

Below: The black box stage used at Ghostlight Theatre allows the audience to feel that they are part of the performance.

10% down* musicians love the intimate setting.”

The black box concept may not be avantgarde, but the flexible space and purposeful lineup helps GhostLight offer what Mow calls “theater with a purpose.” In its inaugural season, GhostLight put on four very different shows, from the romantic Bridges of Madison County to the political satire Urinetown. In between shows, GhostLight hosted community meetings, fundraisers and talkbacks.

“Theater has the power to educate people of all ages.”

PAUL MOW

The venue also partnered with Chicagobased CircEsteem to offer kids a summer program that helps build self-esteem and mutual respect. “The kids learn a variety of circus-themed arts like juggling and tightrope walking,” explained Mow, “but leave with improved social skills and self-esteem so that they’re better able to realize their own potential.”

As recipients of the 2019 Golden Acorn Award for Arts and Innovation, community leaders support the theater’s cause. “As the new kids on the block we were so honored,” said Hesse, an accomplished pianist and retired teacher from Chicago. “Luckily, the Berrien Community Foundation saw that we’re here to make a difference and open doors for creative expression.”

Uplifting the younger generations is important to Hesse, who grew up with a love for music thanks to an unexpected meeting with a neighbor’s piano at the tender age of five. “When our neighbor saw me sitting at her piano and playing, she called my mother and told her to get me lessons. I learned to read music at the same time I was learning to read words,” said Hesse. “That’s why it’s so important to open doors for people because you never know where their talents lie.”

— Dawn Williams

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Port Sanilac: A hidden gem

J

ust 90 miles from Detroit, Port Sanilac is a small village with a big harbor and bigger heart.

Its recipe for success? “The views, the nice people and the fact that everyone makes you feel at home,” said Sandy Miller, who with her husband, Tom, recently bought the local Huron Shores Golf Course and restaurant.

A quiet refuge perched on the edge of Lake Huron, Port Sanilac is where you suddenly feel “up north” in the Thumb.

The main crossroads in town — actually, the only crossroads — is the corner of M-25 and M-46. Go north, and you will hit Port Austin. Go west, and you could drive straight to Muskegon. Go east just a block, and you end up in Lake Huron.

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Old fashioned and less touristy than nearby Lexington, the village of about 580 people is dominated by the outsized harbor that in summer is packed with boats. One of Michigan’s “Harbors of Refuge,” Port Sanilac particularly caters to sailors. The harbor has two full-service marinas and a sailing school, plus a playground, ice cream shop, dive shop and kayak rentals. Stroll or fish off the break wall. Visit Village Beach, which is next to the harbor and suitable for young families. Offshore is the Sanilac Shores Underwater Preserve, featuring 16 shipwrecks for divers.

For such a small village, Port Sanilac has surprising cultural amenities. It has a theater — the Barn Theatre — whose season

runs June through August. The restored Port Sanilac Lighthouse (1886) is privately owned but offers tours in summer. Visit the historic mansion and vintage buildings that make up the Sanilac County Historic Village and Museum. Play 18 holes at the public Huron Shores Golf Course or come for Fourth of July fireworks and a parade. A farmer’s market — locally sourced products only — runs Friday afternoons in season.

Lodging in Port Sanilac is almost entirely rental homes, either in town or spread up the lakeshore. This part of Lake Huron has sandy beaches good for sunbathing or evening campfires. Beachfront homes range from modest cabins to luxury digs. The private, modern Lake Huron Campground is five miles to the north.

Placid Port Sanilac is busiest in midsummer when popular restaurants like the Stone Lodge and Uri’s Landing draw crowds for steaks and perch. Mary’s Diner, arguably the heartbeat of downtown, is beloved for breakfast. Over fluffy pancakes and bacon, all problems are solved. The village has minimal shopping, but do not miss Raymond Hardware. The state’s oldest hardware store and lumber yard began in 1850. With a cozy warren of narrow aisles towering with nails, bolts, hammers and wrenches, it is open year-round.

On summer evenings, drive a few miles west of Port Sanilac to see a little-known gem — the Hi-Way Drive-In. It is Michigan’s oldest drive-in, dating from 1948, and still operates. A few miles beyond that is Green Thumb Blueberries, which offers plump u-pick berries in July and August. And before you leave Port Sanilac, stop at Blue Water Sports Bar, where you can lift your glass and toast life’s simple pleasures.

For more information, see portsanilac.net and portsanilacharbor.com.

— Ellen Creager

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ISTOCK/SUMMERSETRETRIEVERS

Long known as a Lake Huron port that caters to seasonal and cruising sailors, its harbor is often packed with sailboats in summer.

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Portage Point redux

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY PORTAGE POINT RESORT

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hink Northern Michigan cottage — and then, the quintessential cottage-style inn — and you immediately picture wide, spacious porches outfitted with decorative pillars and breezy swings. That’s partly due to the work of builder Charles Caskey, who built some of the first cottages in the charming Bay View Association near Petoskey, and on Mackinac Island’s bluffs. He scandalously traded fancy parlors for casual porches, and then moved on to build some of the state’s most famous inns of the day.

The best known of his works is the circa-1887 Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island, a project people of the day called “Caskey’s folly” because of its unprecedented amenities (like an elevator) and the fact it was a little bit crooked. More of a hidden secret is his 1903 project that inn staff and promoters like to call the “Grand’s cool little sister,” Onekama’s Portage Point Resort.

Like the Grand Hotel, Portage Point was founded by a transportation company, said owner Bob Gezon. The company’s steamships transported guests from Chicago, often to spend whole summers on this spit of land wedged between Portage Lake and Lake Michigan. While initially just a 30-room Colonialstyle lakefront inn, it quickly expanded to its current Greek Revival style with Corinthian

columns. Over the years, Victorian cottages and adjacent buildings were added, all now on the National Register of Historic Places.

The inn has changed hands a few times over many years, but Gezon hopes to restore it to its former grandeur — both in architecture and activity. He was something of an accidental owner, an environmental dredging contractor who stood to lose what was owed him when a former owner filed for bankruptcy. Instead, he opted to buy the mortgage and expand his holdings of Michigan coastal properties.

The inn’s staff is waiting for the go-ahead on some infrastructure projects including a municipal sewer system and moving ahead with a planned expansion and renovations. Those have been completed on adjacent buildings, including 40 condominium-style rooms that were added to the 40 available for rent. A second swimming pool also will be added to the waterfront, and the main entrance, now facing the lake, will be moved to the back of the hotel. Guests will then be greeted by a threestory entryway that exposes a grand staircase that was a signature of Caskey and George Mason, a Grand Hotel architect who collaborated on the inn’s construction, Gezon said.

Builders will lift the main hotel to create a new ground level with fitness center and spa and

Portage Point Resort plans call for expansion and renovation.

walkout to the lake. Activities like water skiing and boat rentals will similarly make the lake a focus, and Gezon envisions further expanding offerings like live music, cookouts, dance lessons and lawn games — all further reflecting the feel as well as look of the inn’s heyday.

“We want to keep it feeling a bit like the inn in Dirty Dancing,” Gezon said “We seem to be getting through the unpleasant side of permitting. Then we can really have some fun with it!”

— Kim Schneider

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Portage Point Inn as it was in 1920.

MICHIGAN BLUE

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Above: A pair of Canada geese and goslings.

Left: Tobico Marsh is great for birdwatching.

A special place Bay City’s Tobico Marsh a gem of national importance

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY CRAIG STERKEN

W

ith its vernal pools and hushed wet meadows, Tobico Marsh seems like a tantalizingly secret place. But this special Michigan attraction is just four miles off the I-75 freeway near Bay City.

“I enjoy the peacefulness and serenity of Tobico, in all seasons,” said Kathy Woods Booth, a member of the Friends of Bay City State Park. “It is never a disappointment.

It is nice to see people enjoying Tobico and breathing in the moments.”

Tobico Marsh is among the state’s last and largest coastal marshes. It owes its existence to having been a private hunting club for decades. The club’s last member, Frank Andersen, donated the marsh to the state in 1957.

Today it is part of Bay City State Park and home to shorebirds, beavers, otters, turtles, mink, deer, muskrats and frogs. It is a spawning ground for northern pike and other fish.

“It’s a Great Lakes freshwater coastal marshland, and we’ve lost over 75% of those,” said Jonathan Massung, park interpreter. “It’s one of the last remaining examples of something that used to be common in our state.”

Tobico can be visited for a few hours or fill a whole day. The most popular trail, a nearly mile-long loop, takes visitors around the Tobico Lagoon. The trail links to a sandy beach on Saginaw Bay. A T-shaped pier in the lagoon offers fine fishing and scenic photos.

People with more time can hike or cycle the 3-mile, partly paved Andersen Trail. It connects to the Tobico Marsh loop, a 4-mile trail through a hardwood forest. Two tall observation towers give visitors a view of the marsh, forest and water.

“It seems like every time I go down there, there’s another trail,” said Joe Sheals of Mid-

“It is never a disappointment.

It is nice to see people enjoying Tobico and breathing in the moments.”

KATHY WODS BOOTH

land, who visits often. “It’s so cool. You see tons of birds and turtles.”

Birders love Tobico Marsh for the hundreds of thousands of migrating birds that pass through and stop over each spring and fall.

Bald eagles returned in 2012 as residents, and rare birds like the yellow-headed blackbird also nest here. In summer, the trees are filled with song. Last year, the park had a family visit from China, Massung said. The bird they most wanted to glimpse: the robin.

Near the lagoon is the Saginaw Bay visitors center, with a gift shop, auditorium

and exhibit hall. It displays the state’s only known wolverine. Found living in the wild in Sanilac County, she was mounted when she died in 2010. Although Michigan is called the “Wolverine State,” none were seen here for about 200 years — until her.

Tobico Marsh is part of Bay City State Park. Just north of Bay City, the park is connected to the Bay County Riverwalk/Rail trail system. The park has 192 campsites, a splash park and playscapes, fishing, archery, hiking, the beach and the marsh. An annual Waterfowl Festival is held in August.

The 1,019-acre Tobico Marsh complex was designated as a National Natural Landmark in 1976 by the U.S. Department of Interior for its rarity. For visitor information: see Michigan.gov/dnr — Ellen Creager

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Michigan artist celebrates water

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ater-loving artist Robyn Ladwig conjures coastal works of rolling blue waves by using resin, ink, paint and beach sand. Many of her large paneled pieces are custom-made, but her work also can be appreciated in a handful of Michigan galleries in Alden, Boyne City, Harbor Springs, and at the Art and Soul Gallery in Traverse City where she was the featured artist for its 2018 Art Walk.

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Originally from southern Florida, Ladwig now resides in Jackson, but she never has forgotten her roots. “I was always a water bug; I spent my childhood fishing and boating with my grandfather and father and at the beach with friends. I think I was always creative in some way.”

After years as a proud homemaker raising three kids, Ladwig’s husband gifted her an easel and acrylic paints. The results were life changing. “Once I started painting, I never stopped,” explained Ladwig. “Because I’m self-taught, my approach took a few years to perfect. Today I specialize in epoxy resin artwork that often has real sand, and I sometimes incorporate found items collected along Lake Michigan.”

The artist also gains inspiration from her home studio that overlooks Browns Lake in Jackson and visits to Lake Michigan and other Great Lakes. It’s during these trips to the water’s edge that Ladwig gains a renewed sense for what she creates in her work. “So many of our treasured moments are on or near water,” she said. “It’s my goal that each piece of art I create produces a powerful visual emotion or a special memory for someone. I cannot put into words how much that memory means to the collector, only they can.”

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY LAF LINES PHOTOGRAPHY INC

Robyn Ladwig’s depictions of rolling blue waters and sandy beaches have developed a following in Michigan and Florida.

During winter months, Ladwig often travels south to seaside towns in Florida, visiting the shops that carry her jewelry line of “miniature paintings in a pendant.”

Mainly sold in Michigan waterfront towns from New Buffalo to Mackinaw, boutiques across the country now carry her delicate “Beach Memory” necklaces.

“It’s my goal that each piece of art I create produces a powerful visual emotion or a special memory for someone. I cannot put into words how much that memory means to the collector, only they can.”

ROBYN LADWIG

Another opportunity to enjoy Ladwig’s dreamy art soon will appear on new wine labels for Sandhill Crane Vineyards. And the artist is proud to have been commissioned to create work for the University of Michigan’s pediatric ward in Ann Arbor.

In her spare time, Ladwig enjoys teaching art classes at ESSA Arts in Jackson where students can take basic art classes, enjoy artist receptions and purchase unique gifts. When asked what type of audience she enjoys teaching most, Ladwig laughs and says, “Teenagers are my favorite because they’re kind of fearless and don’t overthink their work.”

To learn more about Robyn Ladwig and her artistic passion, visit coastalcustomart.com.

— Dawn Williams

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Robyn Ladwig is a self-taught artist inspired by water, sandy beaches and beach stones.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY LAF LINES PHOTOGRAPHY INC

Detroit Remembers!

R R

From the Editors of Hour Detroit | Hardcover | 160 pages

If you recall the J.L. Hudson Thanksgiving Day Parade, visiting the Children’s Zoo at Belle Isle, taking in a flick at downtown’s Madison Theatre, scarfing down a hot-fudge sundae at Sanders, rocking out at the Grande Ballroom, or cheering on the Red Wings at Olympia Stadium, The Way It Was, Part 2 will elicit warm memories of Detroit.

This book’s vivid photos and evocative text will take you on a nostalgic journey into the city’s past.

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I

New inn on the block

t isn’t often that a new building is constructed on the ever-historic Mackinac Island where Victorian-era cottages, homes and hotels fill the downtown streets and a few locales off the beaten path.

Yet, last year The Mackinac House (themackinachouse.com) began welcoming guests at its new 19-room boutique inn at 7288 Market St. The inn is co-owned by long-time island business leaders Bob Benser and Andrew Doud. “The Mackinac House is a great addition to Mackinac Island,” said Tim Hygh, executive director of the local visitors bureau. “This luxury inn gives our guests another downtown lodging option and keeps the spirit of our noncookie-cutter lodging properties alive.”

Tucked in behind a well-manicured lawn and brick walkway, the three-story inn is awash in pale summer blue with white trim blending into the island’s pastel color scheme. The welcoming front porch evokes a feeling of coming home and beckons guests to sit and enjoy a morning cup of coffee, afternoon tea or a glass of wine.

Inside, the lobby has a cottage feel with white clapboard walls and red and white nautical accents. The adjacent breakfast area is well stocked with pastries, juices and other continental offerings, and in the afternoon, guests can find tea, lemonade cookies and other light snacks.

Casual meets elegance in each of the uniquely designed guest rooms, where vibrant and complementing colors, textures and patterns deliver a whimsical feel. Even the bathrooms have personality, with a bright palate of colors, wall coverings and subway tiles arranged in herringbone patterns.

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Above: With a large front porch and balconies, the Mackinac House is a welcoming destination.

Rooms also offer all modern amenities, like smart TVs, high speed internet, air conditioning, a mini fridge and coffee makers.

The Mackinac House is well-suited for solo travelers, couples, families and even small groups. Both the Tower Suite and Fort Suite feature larger spaces to accommodate multiple guests. These top-floor rooms also offer views of the island’s historic Ford Mackinac.

“This hotel is perfectly situated one street away from Main Street, so it was pretty quiet but perfectly convenient,” said Christy Perjak of Westland, Michigan, who was among eight friends who gathered there last September for a girls’ getaway.

“The rooms were so nicely decorated and very spacious, the staff was very helpful and professional, and the breakfast offered something for everyone.”

— Dianna Stampfler

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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY JORDAN STRAIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY (BOTH PAGES)

Above: Well-appointed suites are available.

Bottom: Each guest room is uniquely designed.

“The Mackinac House is a great addition to Mackinac Island. This luxury inn gives our guests another downtown lodging option and keeps the spirit of our non-cookie-cutter lodging properties alive.”

TIM HYGH MICHIGAN BLUE

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Virtual Explorations

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urious what the weather is like on Isle Royale, Mackinac Island or your favorite Lake Michigan beach? Do you have an interest in the history of the Straits of Mackinac region but can’t get there in person? The future of travel has undoubtedly changed, and many people have delayed vacation plans or elected to stay closer to home this summer, but that doesn’t mean you can’t learn something new or go on a virtual adventure.

popular regions, and links to explore and engage with nature.

Mackinac State Historic Parks (mackinac parks.com/exploreathome) also has a variety of online exhibits, videos and educational materials and a YouTube page. Viewers can virtually explore six historic sites, along with exhibitions and demonstrations.

In communities across the state, especially those that rely on tourism, officials have added website links and local videos to

The closure of Michigan’s state parks this spring prompted Department of Natural Resources (michigan.gov/dnr) officials to add a variety of virtual field trips, online tours and videos to the website. The DNR has its own YouTube channel (youtube.com/ MichiganDNR), plus nature lesson videos featuring park interpreters, and an online tour of Michigan’s state forests. Other resources include a Michigan History Museum virtual walk-through, aerial tours of

highlight area attractions.

Visitors to the Ottawa County Parks & Recreation’s Bringing Nature to You (miOttawa.org/naturetoyou) web pages can discover different habitats in Michigan from the comfort of home. Some of the most popular online programs include What’s That Bird I Hear, All About Woodpeckers and Frog Calls of Ottawa County.

Little Traverse Conservancy (landtrust. org) will offer live and virtual field trips this

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summer and online environmental education resources that change with the seasons.

Michigan Sea Grant (michiganseagrant. org) created a webinar series on the Great Lakes and fascinating Great Lakes documentaries to its website and YouTube channel.

VisitDetroit.com collected a variety of virtual events for those who want to explore the city from a distance, featuring Belle Isle Aquarium, The Henry Ford Museum, Dearborn’s Glass Academy, Michigan Science Center, Detroit Symphony Orchestra, Detroit Institute of Arts and Detroit Zoo. Playhouse at White Lake (theplayhouseat whitelake.org), a summer theater venue since 1916, replaced its scheduled 2020 summer lineup with a virtual season that continues into August.

Sault Ste. Marie’s (saultstemarie.com) New View of the Soo web page features 14 videos, including a ride on a Soo Locks Boat Tour, a kayak trip to Voyageur Island and Rotary Park, and a visit to Museum Ship Valley Camp.

Municipalities, resorts and news stations across the state maintain webcams that allow viewers to stay up-to-date on the latest weather and boat traffic. There are live webcams in many coastal communities, including Mackinac Island at Chippewa Hotel, Beaver Island, Charlevoix City Marina, Drummond Island Ferry Dock, Leland at Manitou Transit, Mackinaw City at Shepler’s Ferry, Old Mission at Chateau Chantal and Little Traverse Bay at Inn at Bay Harbor.

Boat and bridge nerds can watch activity and traffic at the Soo Locks and the International Bridge, Mackinac Bridge, Houghton’s Portage Lake Lift Bridge, Tawas Bay, Tobin Harbor and Mott Island Dock at Isle Royale, Grand Haven beach and pierhead, and Muskegon Lake channel from the USS Silversides.

NOAA (glerl.noaa.gov) also offers realtime meteorological and marine data and images at stations across the region, including Chicago, Michigan City, South Haven, Muskegon, Alpena and Thunder Bay Island.

— Marla R. Miller

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY iSTOCK/ WARCHI

WAT E R WAY S

Do what you can to shop local first.

Every dollar you spend locally will help open doors of local businesses and support jobs in our community.

Share on social media how you are safely open for business using the hashtag #OpenForBusiness and Michigan BLUE Magazine will reshare your posts.

Shop safely. Follow our local health guidelines and respect others around you.

T R AV E L & A D V E N T U R E 2 0 2 0

UNDERCURRENTS

BY HOWARD MEYERSON

Protecting shoreline, providing public access

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Shoreline property is a top priority, according to staffers, and the nonprofit is working to expand holdings in the eastern Upper Peninsula.

“The majority of the properties we have come to us from landowners, most are donations,” explained Caitlin Donnelly, director of land protection for the Harbor Springs-based conservancy. LTC was formed in 1972. It has protected 62,812 acres in northern Michigan to date. That includes protecting more than 270 private properties with conservation easements and creating more than 200 nature preserves that are open to the public.

Four of those preserves are now on Drummond Island. “We started (a long time ago) in Emmet County where there are a lot of private communities along the water. We protect land for people,” said Donnelly. “It’s not that we protect every parcel; we try to protect larger parcels that have public access.”

Those are parcels that might well have been sold to private landowners who would have shut the public out. Clark Island Preserve is LTC’s most recent acquisition on Drummond. Acquired in 2019, the 15acre preserve has 1,300 feet of Lake Huron frontage. In 2018, LTC secured the 60-acre

Above: The Forsland Dix Point Preserve is readily accessed from the water by boat.

Forsland Dix Point Preserve with 1,800 feet of frontage on the St. Mary’s River. Its 80acre Clyde and Martha Williams Nature Preserve is inland with a nice forest hiking trail. LTC’s Curtis and Margaret Anderson preserve offers 46 acres to explore.

Nearby, on the mainland, just down the road from De Tour, the 145-acre Detour Peninsula Nature Preserve juts down into Lake Huron providing visitors more than 3 miles of Lake Huron shoreline. It is the outcome of an anonymous donation in 2011. It also is listed as a stop on the North Huron Birding Trail, a great spot to see migrating shorebirds, songbirds, raptors and waterfowl.

Donnelly said no other area properties are in the pipeline right now, but staff always are ready to listen and discuss the options that are open to landowners. For more information see landtrust.org.

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Howard Meyerson is the managing editor of Michigan BLUE Magazine.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY LITTLE TRAVERSE CONSERVANCY

I

n quiet corners of Drummond Island, the second largest freshwater island in the United States, staff at the Little Traverse Conservancy are working to protect the shoreline and other parcels from development, turning privately donated lands into public nature preserves.

The island off the eastern tip of the Upper Peninsula is accessed by a short ferry ride from De Tour Village. If you do not know of it, you should find out more. Drummond is known for its laid-back style and special outdoor attractions: clear blue boating waters; quality bird, deer and bear hunting; inland and big lake fishing; a kayaking trail; fascinating geology; fossils; birdwatching; and an expansive network of off-road and all-terrain vehicle trails.

Two-thirds of the island is state owned public land. Another 1,210 acres, the Maxton Plains Preserve, a rare alvar ecosystem, is owned and protected by The Nature Conservancy. Those and other attractions increasingly bring visitors to the island where land is being sold and homes are being built.

The conservancy’s mission is protecting biodiversity and northern Michigan beauty.

EXPLORE

MICHIGAN’S

NATURAL WONDERS

WITH US.

T R AV E L & A D V E N T U R E 2 0 2 0

HOME DECOR

BY JEANINE MATLOW

Say it with paint Boost your curb appeal with a fresh coat of color

W

hen it’s time to update the outside of your house, paint makes a great first impression. Whether you pick a new palette for the façade or highlight other features, here are some bright ideas to consider.

To add color and interest to the exterior of your home, embrace the existing architectural details, said Ashley Banbury, senior color designer with Dutch Boy Paints (dutchboy.com). For a weekend project that can increase curb appeal, paint your front door, porch floor and window trim the same color.

Dutch Boy’s 2020 Trend Forecast can offer inspiration for your front door. Her favorite playful shades include the color of the year, Jasmine Flower, as well as Estuary and Atmospheric Blue. If your entry has sidelights, you can highlight them with the same hue.

For lakefront living, natural watery shades with a dose of vibrancy can play up architectural details like shutters, doors and flowerboxes. “Colors in the green and blue families always feel timeless and elegant however you incorporate them on a home,” said Banbury.

Faux elements can be fun. “Use your front door color for inspiration to paint an area rug on your porch floor, a perfect way to add graphic impact and designate a living space,” she said. “Paint the same color on a house number plaque for another colorful accent.”

To draw the eye to the front steps of your home, paint the porch floor and stair treads the same color with vertical risers in a contrasting shade. For a more cohesive feel, the

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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY DUTCH BOY PAINTS (BOTH PAGES)

Paint the porch floor and stair tops the same but add a contrasting color to the vertical stair risers.

risers can be done in the same color as the exterior trim.

It’s okay to break with tradition to make your picket fence less predictable. Paint a subtle striped wall effect featuring three colors in slightly varying shades with a rotating pattern on each picket. “This project offers a fun and easy way to bring your personality to your outdoor living space,” Banbury said.

Color story Exterior paint selections become even more significant when selling your home, said Dan Gutfreund, a real estate specialist for Signature Sotheby’s International Realty in Birmingham (isellmichigan.com). For curb appeal, light tones can be a better choice for luxury properties. “It’s a blank canvas that lets the home speak for itself,” he said. In general, white tones are more appealing to

a buyer’s eye than unconventional colors, he said.

Though white and light gray are on trend for residential exteriors, they aren’t the only options. One property Gutfreund sold featured a light mint green porch railing, while another had an asymmetrical front door painted red to make it pop. A classic house covered in a soft shade of black combined white architectural features with a red door and porch swing.

On the water, a nautical nod to the color blue can appear on front doors and window trim. “It really pulls the palette together on porches and patios,” said Gutfreund, who has a background in custom cabinetry working with new construction.

Front door colors say a lot about the house and the owners. For instance, a red door can be considered a symbol of protection. The

vibrant color also represents energy and strength. Navy blue is said to be a sign of intelligence, while yellow characterizes happy inhabitants. Gray denotes sincerity and pink exemplifies those who may be more outgoing or mischievous.

When selecting the right exterior shade, Gutfreund said it’s important to conform to your neighborhood. “If you blend with your neighbors, your home will always look its best. It’s okay to be a little different as long as you don’t overdo it,” he said. “The first time most people see a real estate listing online, the color appears even stronger on a high-definition screen.

Making it more neutral will show better in a photograph.”

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Jeanine Matlow is a Detroit-based writer and BLUE’s Home Décor columnist.

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AT T H E H E L M

BY AMY S. ECKERT

Caring for the Crib

North Manitou Shoal Light being restored to memorialize its role and accommodate offshore visitors

Above: A U.S. Coast Guard officer inspects the automated light that replaced the original and its Fresnel lens.

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W

hen Dan Oginsky and Dave McWilliam first climbed the North Manitou Shoal Light in September 2016, they saw firsthand a light in need of extensive repair. The beacon’s leadbased paint was peeling off in sheets, and its 80-year-old windows were in such bad condition, they had been boarded over. The light’s glass lantern panes had been replaced with plastic grown weathered and dingy with time, and the lighthouse was covered with decades of cormorant guano.

“It was in need of a lot of work,” said Oginski, “but I’ll never forget climbing that ladder.

It was thrilling.”

Oginsky and McWilliam, close friends since their student days at Michigan State University, happened on the idea of purchasing the light commonly known as “the Crib” following a Boy Scout excursion with their sons to North Manitou Island in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Casual banter on the hiking trail led them to discuss what fun it would be to own a lighthouse.

Within days, the pair would learn that the federal government was selling several of its Michigan lights, including the beacon they had ferried past en route to the island. Their fate as lighthouse keepers seemed inevitable.

A team of six others — their respective spouses Anna Oginsky and Sherry McWilliam, and friends Todd and Natalie Buckley and Jake and Suzanne Kaberle — joined the men that autumn to submit what would become the winning public auction bid of $73,000. The couples formed the Michigan nonprofit North Manitou Light Keepers (northmanitoulightkeepers.com) and began renovating the light the following summer.

Built to replace a lightship in the shallow passageway between the Manitou Islands and the Leelanau Peninsula, the Crib was completed in 1935. The lighthouse tower was built atop a 60-foot square concrete platform resting on pilings driven 24 feet into the bottom of Lake Michigan. The Crib was operated by a three-man Coast Guard crew.

By the late 1970s, the North Manitou Shoal Light was the Great Lakes’ only remaining manned lighthouse, and in 1980, the Coast Guard replaced the light’s Fresnel lens and its crew with an automated beacon. Left behind on the unoccupied station was an assortment of navigational equipment, including lights and a foghorn, which remain today.

“Restoring the Crib has really been a challenge,” said McWilliam. “While the light is only three miles from Pyramid Point, it’s nine miles from the closest marina.” All of the light’s construction materials, temporary

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY NORTH MANITOU LIGHT KEEPERS (BOTH PAGES)

Left: The light station was built to help ships avoid shoals in the Manitou Passage between the mainland and Manitou Islands.

cranes, tools and crew arrive by boat. EPA regulations required the full scaffolding and negative pressure tenting of the Crib during clean-up to avoid dispersing dislodged paint and other debris into the Great Lakes.

“And then there are the logistics of water and weather conditions, and trying to work on this thing from a boat,” added McWilliam.

Still, the restoration team has made considerable improvements to the light to date.

In addition to media blasting and repaint-

ing the Crib, the owners have restored all of the original windows, replaced the lantern’s glass panes and much of the Crib’s deck. Still to come in Phase I of the restoration are improved docking facilities and modernization of the light’s electrical and plumbing systems.

“Our primary goal,” Oginsky said, “is to protect and preserve the lighthouse, to prevent it from deteriorating any more than it already has. We also want to restore the light to its original appearance, with the addition of modern utilities and plumbing,” The North Manitou Light Keepers expects to open the Crib to visitors by July 4, 2021. Tours will include boat transportation from Leland and a guided tour of the restored light. Interior displays will recount the North Manitou Shoal Light’s history and pay homage to the Coast Guard members who manned the Crib for 45 years. Phase II of the restoration, set to begin in late summer 2020, will add creature comforts to make the Crib suitable for rustic overnight visits.

“We expect an overnight stay will draw those with a spirit of adventure” said Oginsky, “and there is a real sense of adventure when you stand on the Crib.” Both men describe the thrill of being surrounded by surf, watching 1,000-foot lakers pass at close range, and of seeing the sun both rise and set on Lake Michigan.

Of the estimated $2 million required to fully restore the Crib, the North Manitou Light Keepers has raised and spent approximately $500,000 so far, including the original cost of the lighthouse itself. The association continues to seek out sponsors to assist with raising additional funds.

“Personally, my goal is to give the lighthouse back to the community,” said McWilliam. “When you stand on the decking of this lighthouse, you’re experiencing such a unique piece of Michigan’s maritime history. That needs to be shared with as many people as possible.”

≈

Above: The light station interior is being stripped and refinished as part of the restoration.

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Amy Eckert is an award-winning travel writer who lives in Holland.

MICHIGAN BLUE

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THE SPORTING LIFE

At 4,600 miles in length, the North Country Trail is the longest hiking trail in the National Trail System.

BY MARLA R. MILLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARON PETERSON

North Country Trail Association director finds her footing in the Midwest

A

s a child, Andrea Ketchmark spent more time on the water than in the woods.

She got her first taste of hiking at Wildwood Preserve, a crown jewel of Toledo, Ohio’s, Metroparks system, but it wasn’t until she moved to Colorado for college that she discovered a love for the trails themselves.

“I loved the outdoors and realized that trails are the avenues to having the expe-

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riences I sought after,” she said. “During those years, I lived for solitude in nature and rejuvenation through exercise outside.”

Now the executive director of North Country Trail Association, the nonprofit organization that coordinates volunteer trail builders and chapters in eight states, Ketchmark joined the NCTA in 2009 as director of trail development. The North Country National Scenic Trail stretches 4,600 miles

from North Dakota to Vermont and is the longest trail in the National Trails System.

With nearly 550 miles of NCT trails, Michigan has the most miles of any state, and the NCTA’s headquarters is in Lowell.

Ketchmark took over as executive director in 2017 and enjoys “the challenge and excitement of leading a growing organization to meet the challenges of the future.”

Ketchmark, 43, studied natural resources recreation and tourism at Colorado State University in Fort Collins. After spending most of her 20s in Colorado, she headed east to Washington, D.C., for five years and worked at the American Hiking Society before returning to the Midwest.

“When I found that the North Country Trail goes through one of the Toledo Metroparks, my life came full circle,” she

said. “I was intrigued by the idea of a trail through the upper Midwest because I spent my life thinking I had to head west to get great hiking experiences.”

Ketchmark, who has spent much of her adult life on the trail, shared a number of her insights with BLUE. What do you enjoy most about hiking?

“I enjoy the simplicity of it. You don’t need expensive gear; just a little preparation and you are off. It’s an incredible sense of freedom to put one foot in front of the other to take you on a journey and to wonder at every turn, what is around the next bend.”

Above: Andrea Ketchmark (left), Ted Bentley (right) and Delaini Disher (center) enjoy a hike on the North Country Trail in the Lowell area.

What are some of your favorite hikes?

“I’ve hiked in every state I’ve ever visited. I seek out some of the well-known destinations but also the lesser known spots where there aren’t any crowds. My favorite places have been Lory State Park in Colorado, where I spent my hours between classes during my college years; Arches National Park in Utah, where I celebrated my 25th birthday hiking with friends; the Grand Tetons in Wyoming, a father-daughter trip that I’ll never forget; and countless spots along the North Country Trail, especially here in Michigan.”

Have you done a lot of solo treks?

“Group hikes have never been my thing. It’s in solitude that I’m able to go my own pace and find the peace and quiet that lead to really restoring my body and mind.”

What prompted you to take your passion for hiking and turn it into a career?

“I joked when I first moved to Colorado that I wanted to hike for a living. And then I heard that CSU had a program in outdoor recreation and realized that maybe it was possible. That program focused on learning how people connect with the outdoors and how we as professionals can help balance both to preserve the integrity of the outdoors while allowing for the experiences that enrich our lives.”

Can you talk about your longest or most challenging hike?

“In 2015, I signed up for an event that one of our chapters runs in the Allegheny National Forest. The A-100 challenges participants to hike 25, 50 or 100 miles in a weekend. I signed up for the 50 miles and was excited to prove my hiking cred. It’s a challenging section of trail, but we also got hit with tons of rain as the event was kicking off, which made every step a muddy mess. I only made it to mile 25, a hit to my ego and my ankle that I sprained at mile 19. I was reminded on that hike to hike your own hike.

Although I respect the thru-hiker and trail runner cultures, speed and distance don’t matter to me much.”

What is your favorite segment of the North Country Trail in Michigan?

“I’ve hiked some of the trail in each of our eight states, but my favorite still remains the section through Lowell. It’s beautiful and because it’s accessible, it has provided me with endless opportunities to reconnect to nature and to myself after a long work day or stressful work week.”

What is your advice for someone who wants to hike a stretch of the NCT? “Decide what experience you want to have first — day hike, backpack, rural or urban — and then head to our website to check out our maps, hike planning guide and connect with our community on Facebook to give you advice.”

To learn more about the NCTA or plan your next hike, visit northcountrytrail.org/ the-trail/plan-your-hike or join the public group North Country Trail Community on Facebook.

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MICHIGAN BLUE

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S TAT E O F M I N E

BY JULIE BONNER WILLIAMS ILLUSTRATIONS BY G. ODMARK

Closing the cottage

I

’d crossed the lake to my grandparents’ cottage in autumn just once before. I was six then, and standing on the last remaining section of dock marveling at odd creatures washed ashore.

“Those are mudpuppies,” my dad said, walking past me carrying a toolbox.

I wondered if he was making it up.

Ours was the white cottage overlooking the lake, its green trim had shamrock cutouts my grandmother called gingerbread.

Our cottage had no name. Two doors down was the Davis’ cottage, “To-Da-Mar,” named for the three children of the owners: Tom, Dan and Mary, who grew up with my dad. Next to us was “Twin Oaks,” so called for the oaks like sentinels in front of the shaker shingle abode. Our place, for which my grandparents paid $250 in 1936, had as its only moniker carved into a block in the ground, “Kunkle,” the original owner’s version of a cornerstone.

Fifty, I thought. It’s been fi fty years since that last time I was here in the fall, since the fi rst and only time I ever saw a mudpuppy.

I maneuvered the aluminum boat nearer the dock, sliding the edge close enough to reach out and take hold.

My family called this boat “the little boat,” for no reason I knew of, other

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than it was smaller than our 1960s orange pontoon boat with the canopy striped white and orange like taffy.

Our dock was the last in the water. What was left of the old-time islanders I’d known all the summers of my life had shut up their cottages sometime after Labor Day. Many, like my grandparents, were gone now. Even Mrs. Firlik who, ninety-three when last I saw her, still walked her daily lap around the island, intent as a pilgrim.

My uncle called the cottage his now, and no one could be there without his permission and him being there, too. At sixty he had never married, had never left home, and had become the fat kid who plays tuba in the school band, grown-up. It afforded him opportunity to feel important, the son born twenty years after his older brothers, making rules about what had belonged to all of us for over seven decades.

I cut the motor and sat in the last rocking moments of waves, watching Queen Anne’s lace and tiger lilies sway among the endof-year grasses. They would grow no taller.

Winter was coming.

Sometimes it’s hard to know where to begin. I started in the kitchen with cardboard boxes, two plastic coolers, and a box of black garbage bags. The glasses in the cupboard, each a Flintstones jelly jar once, bore a 1963 copyright. Standing on the yellow chair-stepstool, I could reach the cupboard above the sink. I tossed down a box of my grandmother’s Red Rose teabags, a can of baking powder, a box of Arm

& Hammer Baking Soda. Salt. Cinnamon. In the corner of the cupboard hid a half bottle of Seagram’s. Grandpa’s secret stash. I always thought I was the only one who knew he kept it there, having walked in one afternoon while he was taking a swig from the bottle. He winked at me, still drinking. Years after he died I revealed his secret, only to reminisce about how cutenaughty he was on the sly. My mother waved her hand in the air as if brushing away gnats. “Everybody knew about that,” she said matter-of-factly, then instantly serious, “except your grandmother.”

Upstairs, I sat on the wrought-iron bed with squeaky springs to clear off the kidney-shaped vanity table with floral fabric thumb-tacked around its perimeter. I picked up a jar of Vaseline easily forty years old and still as Vaseline as Vaseline is. My grandparents were only twenty when the Great Depression of 1929 hit. Nothing was taken for granted, nothing discarded. Proof of this remained in the National Geographic magazines from 1968 and 1969 strewn around downstairs. I tossed a bottle of Avon Skin So Soft into a garbage bag. It had been there so long, seeing it was one more tradition of being at the cottage. I never knew of anyone in the family ever using it. I wondered how it even got there. My grandmother’s beauty regimen consisted of Oil of Olay and a swipe of pink lipstick for trips into town. A flat, plastic bottle of Coppertone suntan lotion met the bottom of the bag.

“You have any extra boxes up there?” my uncle called up the stairs.

“Yeah. I’ll toss a couple down — just a minute,” I answered, rising from the edge of the bed to get them.

In the linen cupboards were stacks of sheets and pillowcases, as mismatched as the teacups and saucers in the kitchen.

I pulled a beach towel from the top shelf: three cartoon leopards, one red, one yellow, one orange. It had been my towel when I was at the cottage. I rolled it up and put it aside. It would go home with me.

The desk drawer in the sitting room revealed boxes of George Washington sparklers. My cousins and I were the last children to play here. The youngest of the four had turned fi fty-one last April. A paperback Audubon bird book. A deck of cards held together with a rubber band. A wood cribbage board. A keychain with keys to no-one-would-know what. A 16 magazine with Sonny and Cher, the Monkees and the Beatles on the cover. I had a crush on Davy Jones in his Monkees years, unfailingly coming up from the lake, my hair stringy-wet, to fi x a fluffernutter sandwich, drink Vernors, and watch the Monkees on the black-and-white television every afternoon at four o’clock, a wad of tin foil scrunched onto the bunny-ears antenna.

The television was gone now, my uncle’s computer in its place. A stack of credit cards beside it. Some bearing my grandmother’s name in raised letters.

“Because I read once that women have a hard time getting credit,” my uncle explained once. “So I signed up for credit cards

with her so she could have credit.” By then she was eightynine and had dementia.

Grandpa had paid cash at a dealership for their last car, purchased new.

Dusk had settled over the lake. I carried the last bag down the steps and onto the pontoon boat. My uncle had loaded the little boat. The neighbors would manage the last section of dock. I looked up at the bank where my uncle was talking with them. I watched as he handed over the keys to our cottage. Ray, a Detroit factory worker, turned and handed them to his daughter who moved her two-year-old from her hip into her husband’s hands. I stepped off the pontoon deck, onto the dock that had led to the happiest summers of my life. I sat on the fourth step. The oak tree high above me was dropping its leaves. It seemed it, too, was shedding tears. Another season was over.

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Julie Bonner Williams is an award-winning poet and professor at Grand Valley State University.

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VINTAGE VIEWS

Tall-tale postcards were funny and outrageous, often playing up Michigan’s popularity as a great fishing destination.

BY M. CHRISTINE BYRON AND THOMAS R. WILSON

A

t the beginning of the 20th century, picture postcards were becoming a social phenomenon. Common scenes included town views, buildings and events. The accessibility of burgeoning photography technology merged with American ingenuity and “tall-tale” postcards were created. Also called “exaggeration” and “freak,” they came on the scene about 1910.

It’s easy to see the link between folk tales, like those of Paul Bunyan, and pictorial talltale scenes represented on postcards. The cards follow an American tradition of yarns and lies, perhaps like the tales heard from fishermen in taverns of sightings and close calls.

The postcards juxtaposed out-of-scale images with ordinary objects. Common depictions might include a giant ear of corn filling a flatbed railcar, or a cowboy riding

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on a monstrous grasshopper. In the days long before Photoshop, viewers did a double-take looking at these novelty cards, for wasn’t it a fact that photography didn’t lie?

Accurate joining and photographic juxtaposition are the careful techniques that try to make these postcard scenes believable.

We know that a Michigan fish can’t be that enormous, but the cards were photographic evidence of “the kind we catch here.”

Images of “the fish that got away” were well-liked by the public. Since Michigan is a hot spot for fishing, it’s no wonder that these exaggerated fishing postcards were in “big” demand. America’s spirit of boosterism prevailed in showing off the “biggest” of everything. Boosterism also is part of Michigan’s fishing culture. Think of taverns up north where the biggest

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY VINTAGE VIEWS

The kind we catch here: tall­tale postcards in Michigan

local catches are mounted with pride for customers to see.

The photographic versions of these postcards were popular in the first decades of the 1900s. Drawn or painted images came later, in the 1930s and 1940s. Portraying action and excitement, the artistic renderings made viewers skeptical, but nonetheless they were humorous and captivating.

A few national postcard publishers produced the majority of these tall-tall postcards. Curt Teich of Chicago sold a series called “Big Fish Comics.” Another big national printer was E.C.Kropp of Milwaukee. The Midland Publishing Company of New York copyrighted the trick photography of J. Herman in 19121913 and the L. Black Company of Detroit did the same for its work in 1918. Other Michigan companies that printed them included the

Upper Michigan Card Company in Manistique and Outdoor Sports Cards in Alpena. Some publishers remained anonymous, with no indication on the back of who printed them.

A popular series labeled “Freak Fish” only indicated that they were “made in the USA.” Humor was a preferred theme on the front of these novelty postcards, but messages on the back often had a lightheartedness, too.

A message on the back of a card from Lake George, Michigan, in 1916 showing five men attacking a giant fish with pikes said: “This is the way we catch fish here.

Some fish, eh!”

Another mailed in 1917 portrayed a giant fish on a flatbed railcar from Manton. It read “Hoping you might come and help eat our fish.”

A card postmarked Shelby 1910, showing a jumping fish knocking over the fisherman in his boat, said: “This is the way they jump in Stony Lake.”

From Traverse City in 1936, a card showing an enormous fish three times the size of the fishing boat claims: “This is the one Daddy didn’t catch.”

As P.T. Barnum conveyed in his life’s work, the public likes to be fooled, as long as they’re amused in the process. Today, these larger-than-life fish postcards continue to amuse us with their absurdity.

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BLUE Vintage Views columnists M. Christine Byron and Thomas R. Wilson reside in Grand Rapids. They are authors of the book “Historic Leelanau: Recognized Sites and Places of Historical Significance.”

The Nation’s Leader in Log Siding & Knotty Pine Paneling Comins, Michigan 1.800.818.9971 • woodworkersshoppe.com MICHIGAN BLUE

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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY ALPENA AREA CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

Two explorers visit a wet sinkhole at Rockport State Park, one of many sinkholes found in the region.

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e s i r n surprise

Lake Huron community weaves nature, commerce, past and present together

By ELLEN CREAGER MICHIGAN BLUE

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Children enjoy playing at the Rotary Splash Park at Starlite Beach.

Lake Huron is what makes Alpena feel

“It’s the biggest town around for most people.”

–Blake Gingrich

Quarrying continues today, and Alpena County is fi lled with strange karst formations, sinkholes and fossils, reflecting the ancient era when this was a saltwater sea.

Those combined features attract an unusual assortment of visitors including fossil hunters, geologists, extreme triathletes and shipwreck fans. But there are more gentle experiences, too.

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Downtown MEMORIES DOWNTOWN In town, Alpena has intriguing architecture. It has two outstanding museums, excellent birdwatching opportunities and sandy swimming beaches. Its historical downtown has a sturdy character, with ponds and walking trails just beyond the center business district.

“It’s the biggest town around for most people,” said Blake Gingrich, supervisor of two nearby state parks. Set on the shoreline-hugging U.S. 23 Heritage Route that runs from Au Gres up to Mackinaw City, Alpena is a popular summer destination.

Here, the sun rises over the lake instead of sets. Thunder Bay faces south, so it also is somewhat protected from shoreline damage as the water rises in the Great Lakes.

“Shipwreck Alley” may lurk just offshore, but Alpena perks along with each new day.

Among the sights not to miss:

Start with a walk out on the long harbor break wall where boats sail past “Little Red,” a spindly-legged yet endearing steel lighthouse that is an Alpena icon. Later, shop downtown, ducking into Bob’s Bullpen comic bookstore and Thunder Bay Art Council and Gallery.

Search for some made-in-Alpena gifts like Svede’s Lotion Bar, polished pudding stones or Alpena’s version of Monopoly, “Alpenopoly,” at The Local Basket Case gift shop, said Adrianna Gumtow, a clerk who grew up here.

One thing you’ll notice about Alpena is that nature is just beyond the downtown core. The town has three sandy beaches, including the family friendly Starlite Beach.

Just a few blocks away, Duck Park and Island Park are part of a 500-acre wildlife sanctuary. Walk across a scenic covered bridge that looks old but dates from 2015, then hike trails or rent a kayak. Look for blue herons and other waterfowl on the trails or catch a glimpse of a warbler. Alpena is part of the 145-mile Sunrise Birding Trail that runs up the Lake Huron shoreline.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY ALPENA AREA CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU (BOTH PAGES)

like home. For those who live there or visit, the lake is their companion, their friend, their comfort.

“It is so much a part of our DNA that we feel odd when we spend extensive time in communities where we can’t see water,” said Mary Beth Stutzman, an Alpena native who sometimes takes her coffee out on Blair Street Pier to watch the sun rise in streaks of pink over the lake. “It is somewhat of a meditative experience to start the day with such beauty.”

Compared to some Michigan shoreline towns, Alpena is modest about its charms.

Set in the sparsely populated northeast Lower Peninsula near the 45th parallel, Alpena’s tourism intersects with its manufacturing heritage — logging and quarrying.

Logging is long over, but at one time up to 2,000 ships a year steamed or sailed into Alpena’s Thunder Bay — and many didn’t survive its storms and shoals. Nearly 200 shipwrecks offshore make the area’s Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary a popular place for shipwreck diving and shipwreck tours.

EXPLORATION SHIPWRECKS You can dive on Alpena’s famous shipwrecks, but most people instead take a boat, paddleboard or even swim. More than 200 wrecks exist in the watery sanctuary. In season, board the Lady Michigan, whose glass bottom lets you glimpse the well-preserved graves of the wrecks below. The most visited wrecks are in less than 20 feet of water, especially the Portland at the Bell Bay Besser Natural Area.

A favorite wreck for snorkeling is the two-masted schooner Portland which sunk in 1877.

An amazing maritime museum For Alpena residents, however, their most beloved shipwreck was the Nordmeer, a German ship that partly sank in 1966 seven miles offshore, leaving the cabins and bridge portion floating. “In the ’70s, people used to have parties on it,” said Stutzman, now Alpena Area Convention & Visitors Bureau’s director. After 20 years of festivities, the Nordmeer slowly sank, disappearing under the waves by 2010.

The Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center has the sheen and polish of a much larger museum. Built in 2005, it includes a full-size replica of a Great Lakes schooner and artifacts from many wrecks in Alpena’s Thunder Bay, including the Nordmeer. Visitors may be surprised by the sophistication of the interactive exhibits. The museum is jointly run by NOAA and the state of Michigan as part of the National Thunder Bay Marine Sanctuary.

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Stargazers can clearly see the Milky Way at Thompson's Harbor State Park.

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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY ALPENA AREA CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU (BOTH PAGES)

SIGHTSEEING

A visitor inspects an area called "Cracks in the Earth" at the Mystery Valley sinkhole.

Quirky architecture

adventures ROCKS So much of Alpena’s soul can be traced back to rocks, shale, clay and limestone that made the raw cement. Collapsing limestone formations created strange sinkholes and mysterious underground rivers. Drive west of town to the Stevens Twin Sinks to see two huge sinkholes created when the land collapsed. Many area sinkholes are on private land or are open for tours only on certain days, so check ahead with the Alpena Visitors Bureau.

DARK SKIES Stargazers often head north of town to the rugged Rockport State Recreation Area, where pitch-black skies prevail. At night, some people stand in the parking lot, “or over by the view of Middle Island. Some people walk away from the parking lot into the quarry. Some climb the big pile of gravel,” said Gingrich, park supervisor. From there, you can see the ribbon of the Milky Way and in season, the northern lights.

Other official state dark sky preserves in the region are Negwegon State Park and Thompson’s Harbor State Park. In downtown Alpena, the Besser Planetarium shows visitors what the skies look like if you saw them from Detroit, then in Alpena (clearer) and then if the Earth had no lights at all — spectacular. The swath of starry skies in Alpena often surprises visitors, said Johnathan Winckowski, planetarium coordinator. “We have visitors from downstate who never have seen the Big Dipper,” he said.

Streets full of large Victorian homes attest to the affluence of Alpena at the turn of the 20th century. But two homes are unique.

Architectural history fans should not miss the fi rst house in the world built of “Besser block." Jesse Besser’s former house at 232 South First Street was built in 1938 to prove that a beautiful home could be built of concrete blocks. Today the private home is on the register of Michigan historic sites.

Meanwhile, the rocky heritage of Alpena is on vivid display at the Carl Henry House at 319 South State Avenue. The stunning exterior is made entirely of large boulders taken from Lake Huron and nearby lakes.

Built in 1902, it is a private home.

Besser Museum for Northeast Michigan In the early 1900s, Alpena’s Jesse Besser perfected a clever machine to swiftly make concrete blocks. It revolutionized building around the world. Besser got rich and became a town benefactor — thus the Besser Museum (Besser’s world headquarters and manufacturing facility also remain in Alpena.) The Besser Museum was Jesse Besser’s vision, so it features his personal interests — art, history, science and engineering, including the only digital planetarium in northern Michigan.

Two standouts in the collection are especially worth the visit. The fi rst is a cool and rare car — the only known remaining Alpena Flyer. Built in 1911, the sleek touring car is the last known remaining vehicle produced by the Alpena Motor Company in its brief existence from 1910 to 1914.

Meanwhile, arts and crafts lovers will appreciate the near-perfect “porkypine” black ash basket created by the late Edith Bondie, a northeast Michigan artist whose work also is owned by the Smithsonian Institution. It is part of a large and fascinating Native American exhibit that includes fossils, early pottery, spearpoints and baskets from northern Michigan.

In Alpena, the link between the ancient and modern seems to have happened in the blink of an eye. There’s the everyday

Alpena: brisk, plain and efficient, where the courts and hospital and Walmart are located, where its work is as the busy center of northeast Lower Peninsula commerce.

Yet, Alpena also is a port stop for Great Lakes cruise ships. Many foreign tourists, often German, are fascinated by the “exotic” Michigan locale, with its layers of history and small-town American knowhow. They see, perhaps, what locals and Michigan tourists do not — the weaving together of history and the present, the breathtakingly beautiful setting that Alpena residents take for granted, and quirky architecture. And then there is the space.

There is a lot of space in Alpena. In town it may be busy, and out M-32 to the west are the usual shopping plazas, but drive a few miles in any direction and you get the full impact of northeast lower Michigan’s sparse population and space to breathe.

Nature in its most languid form is here.

You can stretch your arms high. Ah, silence.

And as always, the big lake watches.

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Ellen Creager is a travel writer and author who lives in Grosse Pointe Woods.

if you go Alpena is about 4 hours from both Detroit and Grand Rapids. The Alpena Regional Airport also has flights to and from Detroit.

TOURISM RESOURCES DINING: Many choices, including the fine dining farm-to-table Fresh Palate Gourmet (www. freshpalategourmet.com) and John A. Lau’s Saloon, a famous — and supposedly haunted — steak house (www.johnalausaloon.com) LODGING: Basic chain hotels, plus some iconic spots like the Forty Winks Motel.

Camping abounds, including sites at the Alpena County Fairgrounds; also, many beachside vacation rentals. For lodging options, see www.visitalpena.com.

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Visitors can walk to this overlook and enjoy the expanse of the Big Carp River Valley at sunset.

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O F R TH E G N I N I P

Porkies

Remote hikes, beautiful vistas and rustic cabins found in this Michigan wilderness

By JIM DUFRESNE Photography by BRYAN BYRNES

ILLUSTRATION BY iSTOCK/SER_IGOR

T

here was a snafu with the cabin keys. Somebody forgot to pick up the set for the eight-bunk cabin on Mirror Lake before our backpacking trip into the Porcupine Mountains. Only, we didn’t discover it until we had reached the six-bunk cabin at the mouth of the Big Carp River ... 7 miles from where we hiked in, 10 miles from where we left the other vehicle, a 4-mile walk just to the nearest road.

That startling discovery gave us the same sinking feeling a skier has after twisting an ankle, miles from the trailhead. In the middle of Michigan’s most rugged corner MICHIGAN BLUE

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in the western Upper Peninsula, we were without tents, sleeping pads or the key to the next cabin.

Time to make do. A couple from Chicago were gracious enough to let us spend an extra night in the cabin on the Big Carp River.

Then the next day we did a 10-mile trek through the heart of this 61,000-acre state park in a driving rain, wearing full packs.

From the shores of Lake Superior, 611 feet above sea level, we marched across the Porkies, at one point reaching 1,620 feet only to descend several hundred feet to Mirror Lake before ending the day by climbing to a parking lot near Summit Peak, the highest point in the park at 1,958 feet. In between, we crossed streams without bridges, slogged through mud that swallowed our boots, and paused to catch our breath beneath towering maples and hemlocks 300 years old.

“It’s either mountains or mudholes out here,” said one member of our party. With cold rain dripping down our faces and shoulders throbbing from the weight of 30or 40-pound packs, we all agreed. This place was rugged enough to be called mountains, remote enough to stay wild, unforgiving to those who come unprepared and very much worthy of its middle name.

Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park is indeed a wilderness.

It’s always been that way to those who have endured the steep climbs. As early as 1750 B.C. Indians were wandering into the Porcupine Mountains during the summer to mine copper. Using fire and water, they fractured boulders, pounded out the metal and shaped it into tools, ornaments and projectile points. It has been estimated that the ancient miners extracted between 500 million and a billion pounds of copper from an area that included the Porkies, Isle Royale and the Keweenaw Peninsula, and then traded it throughout North America.

The first white settlements consisted of only a few isolated fur trading posts until 1840. That is when Douglass Houghton published his geological survey of the west-

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Standing on a high cliff, hikers enjoy a view of Lake in the Clouds in fall.

Top: The tail of a meteor and the northern lights are visible over Lake Superior. Bottom: Manido Falls on the Presque Isle River is one of many beautiful scenes found in the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness.

ern Upper Peninsula and triggered a copper stampede to both the Porcupine Mountains and the Keweenaw area.

Despite uncovering the Ontonagon Boulder, a 3,708-pound nugget of copper that today rests in the Smithsonian Institution, the veins in the Porkies quickly ran out on the miners. The loggers that followed harvested the trees along the Lake Superior shoreline but passed up the rugged interior of the Porkies for more accessible tracts elsewhere.

Thus, the interior remained unmolested

by miners, loggers and other entrepreneurs and was so pristine that in the late 1930s the federal government designated the Porkies as a potential site for the next national park. The plans were abandoned by the financially strapped Congress at the start of World War II, but when the war demand for lumber renewed the loggers’ interest for the interior timber, concerned citizens and the state stepped in.

Global conflict or not, this distant corner of Michigan, the largest stand of virgin MICHIGAN BLUE

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The Union River is a rocky cascade in the forest.

Bottom: Two hikers pause to take in the view.

"It's either mountains or mudholes out here."

maple and hemlock between the Rockies and the Adirondacks, was too precious to be stripped just for its trees. A push for the Porkies’ preservation resulted in it becoming a state park in 1945.

Michigan’s largest state park is 26 miles long and 10 miles at its widest point. Along with peaks that top 1,900 feet, the Porkies contains 25 miles of Lake Superior shoreline, four lakes, entire rivers, trout streams that are choked with spawning salmon in the fall, and a dozen waterfalls that are named — and dozens more that are not.

There also are more than 90 miles of foot paths that wind through the heart of this wilderness. The longest is the Lake Superior Trail that stretches for 16 miles along the

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lakeshore. Many say the most scenic trek in the Upper Peninsula is the 4-mile hike along the Escarpment Trail that gives way to vistas of sheer cliffs and panoramas of Lake of the Clouds from Cuyahoga and Cloud peaks.

But of all the trails within the park, the path down the Big Carp River best mirrors the diversity of the Porkies. It begins near the Lake of the Clouds overlook and for two miles parallels the west half of the escarpment, providing outstanding views of Big Carp River Valley and the rugged interior of the park.

The trail then descends into the valley, passing the old Lafayette Mine and some of the park’s largest old-growth hemlocks along the way, and finally crosses the Big

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM DUFRESNE (BOTTOM LEFT)

–Anonymous Hiker

WHAT TO DO

at the Porkies Not all activities in the Porkies involve lugging a backpack up a ridge: • Stay at a cabin or a yurt without hiking: Gitchee Gumee Cabin is a

•

Lake Superior’s rugged shoreline is a beautiful place to take in a summer sunset.

ILLUSTRATION BY iSTOCK/VIVALI

•

Carp River. From this point the 9-mile trail swings more to the north and follows the river on its course to Lake Superior. Along the way you pause on the edge of a gorge to take in the wonder of Shining Cloud Falls that thunders down between sheer walls of rock.

Mountain views, stone canyons, thundering waterfalls and a Great Lake … it’s a bit ironic that the park’s most unique feature for many visitors is manmade: the 18 trailside cabins scattered throughout its backcountry.

They range in size from two to eight bunks. They contain wood-burning stoves, tables, benches, and a logbook to jot down tales and tips for the next group to read.

There also are cooking and eating utensils, axes and saws, and some of the hardest mattresses you’ll ever sleep on.

But in the middle of wilderness — when it’s snowing in September or raining in May — there is nothing prettier. It’s what truly makes the Porkies unique. You can find black bears roaming the night, eagles soaring overhead and trophy steelhead trout elsewhere. But this state park is the only one in the Midwest with a network of cabins along its trails; rustic log structures that can only be reached on foot.

Many backpackers stay at a different one each night and then move on. Others book one as a base camp to explore a portion of the park and some families believe renting a rustic cabin is the only way to celebrate Thanksgiving, hiking in the turkey and all the fixings.

But the popularity of the cabins is almost as legendary as the mudholes along Correction Line Trail or the climb to Government Peak. You can reserve them six months in advance (midnrreservations.com) and should for most of the summer.

The reason why is easy to understand.

You still have to hike in but you don’t have sleep on the ground, and that small concession is enough to open up the wilderness, even one as rugged as the Porkies, to some of the most unlikely people.

The logbooks are filled with such testimonies.

“I’m not a woodsman, nor a person who really gets close to nature,” wrote one Wisconsin visitor at the Big Carp River Cabin.

“Roughing it to me is staying at the Holiday Inn when I had reservations at the Hilton.”

Yet he was out there.

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Jim DuFresne is the author of “Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park Guide.”

•

•

five-minute walk from the car. The Union Bay Yurts are on the edge of the modern campground. At any of them a quick run to Ontonagon for beer is not out of the question.

Jam out in the wilderness: For three days at the end of August the downhill ski area is host to the Porcupine Mountains Music Festival (porkiesfestival. org). The outdoor event features more than 20 bands and a stage at the base of the ski slopes that serve as a natural amphitheater. Bring a blanket.

Take a swim: Blame global warming if you want, but happy campers and others can be seen diving into Lake Superior August to early September.

Ride the chairlift without skis: The triple chairlift is operated weekends from mid-September through mid-October so visitors can enjoy a deep blue Lake Superior framed by spectacular fall colors.

Take a class: At the Porcupine Mountains Folk School (porkies.org/folkschool) you can enroll in classes that range from basket weaving and stained glass to making a cutting board.

• Stick your head in a bear den:

Join a ranger-led hike to an actual bear den where you can look around inside.

Hopefully, the bear isn’t bedded down for the winter yet.

• Celebrate the longest day: Summer Solstice lasts 16 hours in the Porkies and is celebrated at the Folk School with a campfire, games, poetry, music and dancing.

• Play disc golf: What else were they going to do at the downhill ski area in the summer? The 18-hole disc golf course features a back nine that climbs the ski slopes for great views of Lake Superior.

• Go mountain biking: In the summer and fall the cross-country ski trails, including the scenic but rugged West Vista Loop, are open to knobby-tire bikes. This is “mountain” biking.

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Women at Shred Camp discover inner peace and strength while having fun on the water

Finding their balance

BY AMY S. ECKERT PHOTOGRAPHY BY BETH PRICE

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Ella Skrocki, one of the Shred Camp organizers and manager of Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak, rides a good curl on Lake Michigan.

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Left: Stephanie Burkhart transitions to a standing position as other camp attendees look on.

A natural partnership

E

lla Skrocki was just 4 years old when she first toyed around with a surfboard on Lake Michigan.

Regardless of weather, she and her parents, Beryl and Frank Skrocki, and younger siblings Reiss and Annabel, often played on the water, paddling kayaks, swimming, even taking the sail rig off an old windsurfer to try surfing near their home in Empire.

Those years on the water left an impression on Ella. Now 25 years old and the manager of Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak (sbsurfandkayak. com), the family business launched by the Skrockis in 2004, she cannot imagine a life away from the water — and a surfboard.

“I had my first actual surfing lessons at age 8,” she recalled. “Now, surfing is my passion.

It not only feeds my soul and my thrill-seeking side, but surfing is my meditation.”

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“That’s what’s amazing about women. They drop the competition and cheer one another on.”

— LEDA OLMSTED

In the early 2000s, there were few avid surfers on the Great Lakes, and even fewer in northern Michigan. As for female surfers?

“There were so few of us, all of the girls knew each other,” said Lindsay Simmons, a surf instructor who learned the sport in her teens. Likewise for Leda Olmsted, a yoga and paddleboard instructor and competitive paddleboard athlete, and Beth Price, a photographer. All of the women grew up in the Leelanau area. “It was only natural that we would become friends,” said Simmons.

It also seemed natural that, when in 2018 Olmsted proposed to Skrocki the idea of a water-themed retreat targeted specifically at females, all four women would become involved. Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak had long offered private and group lessons for children and adults, but the friends sensed that women would be drawn to a weekend of female-only instruction and companionship.

Shred Camp has since drawn women from their early-30s to their late-50s from northern Ohio and across Michigan. Participants come prepared for a weekend of physical challenge, camaraderie and relaxation. And oftentimes, they arrive filled with apprehension.

“Surfing can be a scary thing for beginners,” said Olmsted, adding that campers know to expect time on the water every day, rain or shine. “Even paddling can be scary if the water is rough.”

And while most camp participants have been on a surfboard before, their experience is generally limited to a single vacation experience in California or Hawaii. Typically, the women returned home with an interest in watersports, but a feeling that they hadn’t had the time or personal attention necessary to succeed.

Time away

As the sun rises on a Friday morning, the year’s Shred campers wake up over cups of coffee and a locally sourced breakfast of fruit, fresh-baked bread, oatmeal, or homemade granola. By 10 o’clock, the group heads out-

Right: Katherine Gramann ejoys a moment by the water during Shred Camp.

side for meditation or yoga; it’s a time to get focused and limber up their bodies before moving into more active pursuits determined in part by the day’s forecast.

“Whatever the weather, whatever Lake Michigan throws at us, we just work with it at Shred Camp,” said Skrocki. “We keep our schedule flexible.”

If the weather is calm, Skrocki likes to begin the day with stand-up paddleboard work on North Bar Lake in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Balanced on paddleboards, the women enjoy the lake’s sheltered waters surrounded by fir trees and sand dunes, and within view of curious loons, otters and turtles.

The hour-long SUP session includes yoga, paddling skills and technique. “I think it’s important for new students not only to learn the basics of paddleboarding, but to learn paddleboard safety and even efficiency,” said Olmsted, who guides the lessons. “If you learn to paddleboard properly, you’ll have an easier time paddling in more difficult situations, when the water is rough.”

Following a locally sourced vegetarian or vegan lunch, campers are given time to relax. For some women, that entails a swim in Lake Michigan. Others choose to hike the Sleeping Bear Dunes, or perhaps to do some journaling, rest in a hammock, or go shopping in Empire.

“Most of these women are mothers,” said Simmons, “and they really enjoy the time to themselves.”

Making connections

Surfing lessons typically begin in the afternoon. Campers head to Lake Michigan, surfboards under their arms, and spend a few minutes on the sand learning the basics of paddling into the surf, hopping to a squatting position on the board and maintaining their balance as they rise to stand. Skrocki, Olmsted and Simmons all have experience teaching surfing lessons, and their ratio of one instructor for every three students allows personalized attention and coaching.

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Top: Shred campers gather on protected water for a serenade. Top Right: The group heads out into Lake Michigan. Bottom Left to Right: Jade McInroe enjoys the freedom of riding her board. Susanna Lederhaas practices yoga and then gets a ride on a wave.

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Right: Sometimes a nap is in order. Shred campers enjoy full days of sun and surf, nice meals and the camaraderie of other campers.

“All three of us have gotten good at catching the nuances of what a surfer is doing,” said Skrocki. “Sometimes it’s the smallest changes that can make the biggest difference in mastering surfing.”

Expert training notwithstanding, the Shred Camp visitors relish learning in a group of women. Absent are their insecurities of having a less-than-perfect body. Gone are their worries of a swimsuit that doesn’t stay where it belongs and the competitiveness so commonly present in a mixed-gender group. Instead, the women find a sense of camaraderie. As the beginning surfers watch one another’s success, they whoop for their achievements; as they learn to master new skills, they share tips with the others.

“That’s what’s amazing about women,” said Olmsted. “They drop the competition and cheer one another on.”

Yoga or stretching follows to limber up tight and strained muscles, or perhaps time to reflect and relax. Each summer session has proven to be different, with some participants eager to catch a movie or enjoy a bonfire after dinner, and others ready for long conversations over wine or an early night to bed.

The campers’ second day on the water comes more easily than the first. And the emphasis shifts from skills development to self-discovery and reflection. Palpable is the sense of empowerment that comes from mastering what remains a male-dominated sport.

The women also begin finding connection with the water itself.

Lake Michigan’s sheer size and power can feel overwhelming at first, but the women learn to embrace the water’s fluidity, its constant change and movement. Metaphors between the women’s experiences in the water and in the rest of their lives abound: instability and adaptation; balance and release; turbulence and calm; falling and rising, again and again.

“We tend to take ourselves too seriously,” said Olmsted. “But there is beauty in just letting go. When was the last time you just splashed and tumbled around in the water?

For most of us adults, it’s been a long time.”

Draw of Sleeping Bear Dunes

The Shred Camp experience has been so well-received that the Sleeping Bear Surf & Kayak roster fills quickly, often with the previous year’s participants coming back.

The camp is offered only once annually and is limited to 15 participants to maximize one-on-one instruction time. Furthermore, in the wake of COVID-19, camp organizers wonder precisely how to plan the retreats going forward.

“We don’t know exactly what Shred Camp will look like,” said Skrocki. “But we will always be committed to getting women out on the water.” Possibilities include offering the retreat more frequently or adding oneday sessions on Lake Michigan.

The four women who lead Shred Camp understand as well as their campers the draw of an annual getaway on northern Lake Michigan. Because, in spite of their childhood connections to the Leelanau Peninsula, not all of the women currently live there.

Olmsted calls Encinitas, California, her home these days. Simmons lives in El Salvador.

But the two return to Michigan each summer specifically to join Skrocki and Price at Shred Camp. Surrounded by Lake Michigan, the Sleeping Bear Dunes, rainbow-sherbet sunsets and the camaraderie of like-minded women, the friends wouldn’t miss a season.

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Amy Eckert is an award-winning travel writer and author based in Holland.

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hsmichigan.org • (800) 366-3703 Subscribe today for more than 50% off the newsstand price.

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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY iSTOCK/HUEPHOTOGRAPHY

EXCURSIONS

Make a date with the state Enjoy the season and the fun, from outdoor celebrations to dramatic and stirring performances indoors.

FA M I LY F U N PA G E 5 9 H O M E & G A R D E N PA G E 6 0 A R T & M U S I C PA G E 6 0 B Y L A N D , A I R & S E A PA G E G R E AT TA S T E S PA G E 6 4

Ahh, Adventure! Visit a winery and try something new. Attend 62

a dog show and cheer your favorite breed. It is a good time to get out in nature.

Visit a beach. Hike a trail. Float a river or go surfing. There are home tours, antique shows, art festivals and flower shows. Attend a star party to see the Perseid Meteor Shower. Visit a haunted lighthouse if you dare.

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August/September PEOPLE, PL ACES AND EVENTS TO EXPLORE IN MICHIGAN Aug. 8 Covering scenic and challenging terrain, Ore to Shore Mountain Bike Epic is Michigan’s largest mass start, point-topoint race. Riders depart in Negaunee, where iron ore was first discovered in the Superior region in 1844. The course travels through Ishpeming, heads north into the wooded wilderness, and runs alongside the Dead River to Marquette, finishing at the Lake Superior shore. oretoshore.com

Sept. 11-12

Sept. 12-13 Harvest Stompede weekend on Leelanau Peninsula kicks off the fall harvest season with a race through Leelanau wine country followed by a wine and food tour. Travel at your own pace along the trail and get a true taste of Leelanau’s agricultural bounty with wine and food pairings at 27 wineries. lpwines.com

Sept. 22 Enjoy docent-led tours, hands-on demonstrations and more at the Japanese Gardens 5th Anniversary Celebration at Frederik Meijer Gardens in Grand Rapids. The day concludes with a unique water lantern launch and ceremony at dusk. At 6 p.m., author Leslie Buck presents “My Apprenticeship in the Gardens of Kyoto.” meijergardens.org

Sept. 18 The Hackley & Hume Historic Site is a popular Muskegon attraction. Go where no visitor has gone before on the Hackley & Hume All Access Tour, exploring the attics, porches and basements. On Sept. 4-5, Hackley Attic Escape Room brings together friends and strangers to escape a Victorian storage room filled with puzzles, locks and riddles. lakeshoremuseum.org

D O YO U H AV E A N E V E N T F O R O U R C A L E N D A R ?

Calendar items may be submitted to excursions@geminipub.com two months prior to publication of the intended issue. Michigan BLUE is a bi-monthly magazine.

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PHOTOGRAPHY iSTOCK/PAVEL1964 (TOP LEFT); CHRIS HERBERT (TOP MIDDLE); iSTOCK/IVANKO_BRNJAKOIVC (TOP RIGHT); iSTOCK/YASSMINKA (BOTTOM LEFT); COURTESY LAKESHORE MUSEUM CENTER (BOTTOM RIGHT)

Port Huron’s Boat the Blue Antique and Classic Boat Show attracts some of the finest boats across the United States and Canada. Marvel at classic, wooden boats made in Michigan as well as other interesting buoyant beauties at River Street Marina and Dock. This family-friendly weekend includes a marketplace, shore fun, entertainment and free antique boat rides. boattheblue.org

Andrea Crossman Group

WATERFRONT & LUXURY HOMES

EDITOR’S NOTE Due to changing COVID-19 public health advisories at press time, some events may have been rescheduled. Please check the websites to verify the event status and date.

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F A M I LY F U N Aug. 1 — Dragon Boat Festival, Charlevoix Dragon boat races combine rich Chinese traditions, competition, team building and lots of fun. Join Charlevoix Circle of Arts for this outdoor event and admire boats that are truly works of art. visitcharlevoix.com Aug. 1 — 6th annual DeTour Village Riverfest Head to DeTour Village Marina for boat tours, cardboard boat races, Color Fun Run, chalk the walk, kids games, arts and crafts fair, farmers market and more. detourvillage.org/riverfest Aug. 1-2 — Civil War Days, Port Sanilac Meet living historians and watch drills and skirmishes by Civil War reenactors at the Sanilac County Historical Museum and Village. sanilaccountymuseum.org Aug. 6-9 — PirateFest, Boyne City Arrrggghhh you ready for a super fun summer weekend? Join the excitement as pirates take over Boyne City and offer up entertainment for the whole family. boynecitypiratefest.com Aug. 7 — Friday Night Live, Ludington The streets of downtown turn into a street carnival with bounce houses, food vendors, live music, animals and more. downtownludington.org Aug. 8 — Jeffrey the Camel’s Birthday Celebration, New Era Celebrate Jeffrey the Camel’s birthday with a corn roast and candy cannon blast at 5 p.m. at Lewis Adventure Farm & Zoo. Families also can book a Zoom meeting with Jeffrey. visitlewisfarms.com/special-events Aug. 8 — Fayette Historic State Park Heritage Day, Garden This annual event celebrates the heyday of the bustling iron-smelting company town of Fayette. Activities include period displays, food, music and an 1860s-style baseball game. michigan.gov/fayette

Aug. 11-15 — Western Michigan Fair, Ludington Midway rides, animal shows, festival food, demolition derby, motocross races and more are all part of the fun at Mason County Fairgrounds. masoncountyfairgrounds.com Aug. 12-16 — United Kennel Club Premier Dog Show, Kalamazoo UKC Premier weekend is an annual tradition where your dog can do more! Pre-enter your dog to compete in any of the 13 dog sports offered, or come out to watch the fun. ukcdogs.com Aug. 17-23 — UP State Fair, Escanaba This Upper Peninsula tradition includes grandstand entertainment, carnival rides, 4-H exhibitors and fair food at the UP State Fairgrounds. upstatefair.org Aug. 27 — Pure Ludington Sunset Bonfire There is plenty of space to spread out at Stearns Park Beach while enjoying live music, volleyball, a warm fire and sunset over Lake Michigan. pureludington.com Aug. 22-Oct. 4 — Michigan Renaissance Festival, Holly Time-travel into a 16th-century English village with pirates, wizards, gypsies, fantasy characters and more in the fictional village of Hollygrove. michrenfest.com Aug. 23, 27 — Free Family Movie Series, Muskegon This series features free family movies at Frauenthal Center. Enjoy “Dumbo” on Aug. 23 and “Black Panther” on Sept. 27. frauenthal.org

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Aug. 28-30 — Kalamazoo Balloon Festival Don’t miss the breathtaking display of balloons taking flight or the beauty of the balloon glow just after dusk. Admission is free. facebook.com/KalamazooBalloonFest Aug. 28-30 — Rendezvous at the Straits Powwow, St. Ignace Visit French encampments, watch demonstrations, and enjoy the sights and sounds of native dancing and drumming ceremonies at Father Marquette National Memorial. stignace.com Aug. 29 — Mackinac Island Fudge Festival Cornhole Tournament Come for the fudge, stay for the cornhole. Show off your skills during this competitive tournament, plus plenty of fudge-related fun and family events. mackinacisland.org Sept. 3-Sept. 7 — Michigan State Fair, Novi A celebration of all things Michigan, locally grown and locally known, Michigan State Fair includes rides and games, agriculture, farm animals, an

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equestrian pavilion, cooking demos and more. michiganstatefairllc.com Sept. 4-7 — 45th Annual UP Steam and Gas Engine Show, Escanaba Exhibitors bring an ever-changing display of tractors, gas engines and vintage farm equipment to UP State Fairgrounds, plus a Heritage Village and family activities. upsteamandgasengine.org Sept. 11-12 — Fayette Historic State Park Paranormal Event, Garden Have you ever wondered what a paranormal investigator does? Take part in two nights of unearthly surprises and learning ... if you dare!

Events take place at the historic townsite. michigan.gov/Fayette Sept. 11-12, 18-19 & 25-26 — Harvest Festival Weekends, Champion Van Riper State Park celebrates the harvest with a Monster Mash, wagon hayrides, games, campsite decorating contest and a children’s costume contest, plus trick-or-treating and an infamous haunted hike. michigan.gov/vanriper Sept. 11-13 — Marquette Kennel Club Show This all-breed dog show includes conformation, obedience and rally events at Marquette County Fairgrounds. Spectators are welcome. themkc.org Sept. 11–13 — National Street Rod Association Rally, Kalamazoo Enjoy spectacular vehicles, meet the owners and visit the exhibitors at Kalamazoo County Expo Center. nsra-usa.com Sept. 12 — Sportsmen for Youth Day, Muskegon Muskegon County Fairgrounds hosts this event, free and open to the public, for youth ages 18 and under to try activities including archery, shooting sports, fishing and more. sportsmenforyouth.com Sept. 12 — Muskegon Latino Festival Celebrate people, culture and Latino heritage during a day filled with great food, entertainment and fun at Hackley Park. facebook.com/ MuskegonCountyLatinoFestival Sept. 18-20 – Balloons Over Bay Harbor Eyes to the sky! This event promises to be even better in 2020 with opportunities to see big, beautiful balloons up close and other festivities. bayharbor.com Sept. 26-27 — County-Wide Museum Weekend, Huron County Explore the 17 museums of Huron County, plus special events and tours during this weekend open house hosted by Huron County Historical Society. thehchs.org

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HOME & GARDEN Aug. 1-2 — Petoskey Antiques Show, Petoskey Dealers from around the country feature a wide variety of antiques and collectibles, textiles and quilts, outdoor furniture and decor, vintage jewelry and more at Emmet County Fairgrounds. petoskeyantiques.com Aug 5-26 — Seney Wildlife Refuge Auto Tours Look for wildlife and learn about refuge history on this guided auto tour of the refuge’s Marshland Wildlife Drive and backcountry roads. Tour begins at 7 p.m. on Wednesdays. Other events include photo tours, bus tours, Junior Duck Stamp Art Exhibit, photo contest and self-guided tours. fws.gov/refuge/seney Aug. 14-15 — Hackley & Hume Scandal Tour, Muskegon An illuminating, adults-only event at Hackley House. You’re a juror in this 90-minute experience that will reveal untold stories and truth about each family and their past. lakeshoremueseum.org Aug. 14-16 — Yard Sale Trail, Algonac to Sebewaing Visit 12 Blue Water communities and discover over 200 miles of antiques, yard sales and scenic stop-offs along Lake Huron. Visit the Heritage Vintage Market at Sanilac County Historical Village and Museum. yardsaletrail.com Aug. 16 — 38th Annual Old Victoria Craft Fair, Rockland Peruse arts and crafts on the lawn amid the log houses of Old Victoria, a historic copper mining village built in 1899. Enjoy cinnamon rolls, kids games and tour the restored log cabins. facebook.com/OldVictoria Aug. 29-30 — Dahlia Show, Grand Rapids Admire hundreds of dahlias on display at Frederik Meijer Gardens. Flower sizes vary from the size of a golf ball to a dinner plate, with many unusual forms and colors. meijergardens.org Sept. 5-20 — Sunflower Festival, New Era Snap a selfie in the sunflower fields, pick your favorite blooms to take home and explore the farm activities. Held weekends in September at Lewis Adventure Farm & Zoo. visitlewisfarms.com/special-events Sept. 12-13 — 57th annual Historic Home Tour, Marshall The tour includes six to eight unique homes representing a variety of architectural styles.

Museums and other buildings open, plus a juried fine arts and crafts fair and Civil War Ball. marshallhistoricalsociety.org

Sept. 18-Nov. 1 — Chrysanthemums and More, Grand Rapids This annual celebration of the autumn season features an extensive chrysanthemum display in both interior and exterior areas at Frederik Meijer Gardens. meijergardens.org Sept. 19 — Run for the Hills, Tipton Explore Hidden Lake Gardens during this 5K and 1 mile run and fun walk event. Both courses offer scenic views of Hidden Lake and the surrounding natural areas. canr.msu.edu/hiddenlakegardens Sept. 19-20 — Herb & Gourd Fest, Grand Rapids Gather unique gourds to create a colorful fall display and discover a variety of ways to use herbs and gourds at Frederik Meijer Gardens. meijergardens.org Sept. 22 — Japanese Garden 5th Anniversary Celebration, Grand Rapids Enjoy docent-led tours, hands-on demonstrations and more in the Japanese Gardens at Frederik Meijer Gardens. The day concludes with a unique water lantern launch and ceremony at dusk. At 6 p.m., author Leslie Buck presents “My Apprenticeship in the Gardens of Kyoto.” meijergardens.org Sept. 26-27 — Michigan Antique Festival, Midland Shop vintage goods, antiques, collectibles and much more when nearly a thousand antique dealers set up at Midland County Fairgrounds, plus Michigan’s largest swap meet and one of the state’s longest-running car shows. miantiquefestival.com

ART & MUSIC Aug. 1 — 45th annual UP Gem & Mineral Show, Ishpeming Mineral and gem show with dealers, demos, kids area, silent auction and more at Ishpeming Elks Club. ishpemingrocks.org Aug. 1 — West Shore Bank’s Rhythm & Dunes Concert, Ludington Retro 80’s Night is the theme of this free community concert featuring live music.

Bring a blanket or chair, pack your cooler and invite family and friends. westshorebank.com/ rhythm-and-dunes Aug. 1 — Waterfront Art Festival, Escanaba Visit the 49th annual festival for unique and original art items, a Young Artists Market, entertainment and food in Ludington Park. bonifasarts.org

Aug. 1-9 — White Lake Chamber Music Festival Enjoy performances and events held throughout the White Lake Area of Montague and Whitehall. whitelakemusic.org Aug. 1-Sept. 5 — Maranatha Summer Concert Series, Norton Shores Maranatha opens its doors to the public and hosts free concerts featuring Christian performers: Aug. 1, Charles Billingsley; Aug. 8, Michael Card; Aug. 15, Theater for the Thirsty; Aug. 22, The Martins; Aug. 29, Ernie Haase & Signature Sound; and Sept. 5, Captivating Keyboards. vacationwithpurpose.org Aug. 8 — Waterfront Art Fair, Charlevoix As the second oldest juried art fair in Michigan, Waterfront Art Fair’s goal of bringing fine arts and crafts to northern Michigan hasn’t changed since the fair started in 1958. charlevoixwaterfrontartfair.org Aug. 8-9 — 37th annual Gold Coast Artisan Fair, Ludington Over 200 arts and crafts displays are open for browsing and shopping in beautiful Rotary Park.

From jewelry and clothing to pet items, metal art and more, this artisan fair has it all. ludington.org

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Aug. 14-16 — 39th annual Grand Marais Music & Arts Festival Grand Marais hosts a weekend of music, all sorts of vendors and crafts, food and fun. grandmaraismichigan.com Aug. 15 — St. Clair Jazz Festival Enjoy live jazz along the St. Clair River.

Bring a lawn chair or blanket and listen to music at Palmer Park. bluewater.org Aug. 15-16 — Art in the Park, Copper Harbor A two-day craft fair featuring local and regional artists, including food and entertainment at Grant Township Community Center & Park. copperharbor.org Aug. 21-22 — Kalamazoo Blues Fest This two-day celebration of blues music, culture and history takes over Homer Stryker Field. The festival has won recognition from performers and attendees alike as “the best blues festival in the Midwest.” kvba.org/festival Sept 4 — J2B2 in Concert: The John Jorgenson Bluegrass Band, Muskegon Muskegon Museum of Art hosts J2B2, an all-star bluegrass group featuring four legendary, award-winning musicians delivering bluegrass like no one has ever heard it before. muskegonartmuseum.org

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Sept. 4-7 — 41st annual Detroit Jazz Festival This Labor Day weekend tradition fills several city blocks in downtown from Hart Plaza to Campus Martius Park, offering hundreds of acts on multiple stages over the four days. detroitjazzfest.org

Sept. 25 — Organissimo, Whitehall Playhouse at White Lake hosts Organissimo, drawing a mix of people from all walks of life to enjoy music that satisfies a diverse range of tastes. theplayhouseatwhitelake.org

Sept. 4-7 — Arts Beats & Eats, Royal Oak The 23rd annual festival offers more than 200 performances on nine stages, a highly ranked Juried Fine Arts Show, and local restaurants offering some of the finest cuisine in metro Detroit. artsbeatseats.com

Sept. 25 — West Michigan Symphony: Fantastic Season Opening, Muskegon Join West Michigan Symphony for a colorful season opening right out of the movies, culminating with the most haunting and controversial piece of the Romantic era at Frauenthal Center.westmichigansymphony.org

Sept. 5 — Thumbfest Music Festival, Lexington Get up and dance! Thumbfest is a completely free, family-friendly event featuring roots, rock, folk, Celtic and New Orleans brass. bluewaterfolk.org Sept. 5 — Hats and Horses, Muskegon Enjoy food, mint juleps, live music, derby race coverage and more at this Kentucky Derby-themed party at Frauenthal Center. pioneerresources.org Sept. 5-6 — Arts and Crafts Dockside, St. Ignace Over 100 exhibits featuring original and unique arts and crafts along the waterfront at the city marina. Music, food and fun add to the festivities. stignace.com Sept. 5-6 — Art in the Park, Port Austin A juried art show featuring more than 50 artists, Art in the Park takes place in scenic Gallup Park.

Enjoy musical entertainment, kids tent and artist demonstration. bluewater.org Sept. 5-6 — Algonac Art Fair With the beautiful backdrop of the St. Clair River, enjoy perusing 100 artists’ booths from all over the Blue Water Area and beyond. bluewater.org Sept. 12 – Thompson Square, Bay Harbor Music fans won’t want to miss the incredible husband/wife duo of Thompson Square performing at Great Lakes Center for the Arts. greatlakescfa.org Sept. 12-13 — Grand Marais Rock-On Festival Visit this festival in its new location at Grand Marais Community Center. Informative presentations, merchandise and camping round out the weekend. grandmaraisrockonfestival.com Sept. 17 — Michigan’s Haunted Lighthouses presentation, Muskegon “Michigan’s Haunted Lighthouses” author Dianna Stampfler shares stories from 13 lighthouses around the state of Michigan at Hackley Public Library. hackleylibrary.org

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Sept. 25 — Tom Katalin and Highway 41, Ontonagon A regional favorite across Upper Michigan and Wisconsin, Tom Katalin and Highway 41 are a high energy, hard hitting country band that plays classic country tunes and everything inbetween. ontonagontheater.org Sept. 27 — That Was Vaudeville, Port Sanilac This special performance features music from the heyday to the declining years of Vaudeville, mixed with the history of Vaudeville and its cultural impact, at Sanilac County Historic Village and Museum. sanilaccountymuseum.org

LAND, AIR & SEA Aug. 1 — Storm the Beach 5K and Farm Fit Challenge, Harbor Beach Competitors can run a 5K, walk two miles or treat themselves to the Farm Fit Challenge, a 5K with farm obstacles to maneuver. bluewater.org Aug. 1 — Community Paddle Snug Harbor Edition, Muskegon Part of the Michigan Maritime Celebration, this paddle party along the northwest end of the Muskegon Lake shoreline is open to anyone with a paddle craft. facebook.com/muskegonfloats Aug. 8 — Mission Point Mac to Mac Regatta This annual regatta is open to all sailboats and includes a course 12.5 miles out to Mackinac Bridge and back. On Sept. 5, Horns Bar Labor Day Regatta takes racers through the Round Island course. miyachtclub.com Aug. 8 — Top O’ Michigan Boat Races, Alanson/Indian River Join the Top O’ Michigan Outboard Racing Club for two days of exciting and tough outboard racing on northern Michigan’s beautiful inland waterway. tomorc.org Aug. 8 — Bi-Yak-A-Thon, Harbor Beach Test your skills in a race that includes a 5-mile

Tour de Beach, a 2-mile kayak course and a 5K run with proceeds supporting local groups. biyakathon.org Aug. 11 — Perseid Meteor Shower Star Party, Muskegon Head to the Muskegon Astronomical Society Observatory 9-11:30 p.m. to watch the Perseid meteor shower. Other star parties Aug. 8 and Sept. 12. wmich-astro.org Aug. 12 — Van Riper State Park Meteors and S’mores, Champion Celebrate Michigan’s night sky in hopes of viewing the Perseid meteor showers. At 9:30 p.m., join an explorer guide talk about the night. facebook.com/VanRiperSP Aug. 14-15 — Marquette Trail 50 Ultramarathon Choose from a 50-kilometer or 50-mile event starting and finishing at the NTN Forestville Trailhead. The course is mostly single-track, climbing the scenic four peaks around Harlow Lake and Little Presque Isle. marquettetrail50.com Aug. 15 — Aspirus Great Deer Chase, Calumet This mountain bike race is fun for everyone — from first-timer to expert — with 10-, 15-, and 30-mile courses plus single speed, fat bike and kids races on Swedentown Trails. greatdeerchase.org Aug. 15 — Tour de Dickinson and the Dirty Thirty Bike Ride, Iron Mountain Ride along scenic roads and soak in the sights of rivers, country land, Fumee Falls, natural springs and more on the Dickinson Trail Network. dtntrails.org/tourdedickinson Aug. 15 — 39th annual Antique & Classic Boat Show, South Haven Admire antique and classic small craft from power boats to paddle boats, talk with woodworkers and collectors. Fun for the whole family along the waterfront at Michigan Maritime Museum. michiganmaritimemuseum.org Aug. 16 — Blessing of the Boats, Muskegon Bring the boat out for Muskegon’s Water Week featuring a boat parade, celebration spray of the Muskegon South Pierhead Light by the Coast Guard, Blessing of the Boats and more. westmichiganoffshore.com Aug. 21-22 — Marysville Hot Wheels Weekend This celebration of the Post War American Car Culture includes a car cruise, drive-in movie, car show, pop culture celebrity, and all-day entertainment. facebook.com/ Hot-Wheels-Weekend

Aug. 22 — Soo Ultimate Paddle Day, Sault Ste. Marie SUP Day celebrates Sault Ste. Marie as an amazing playground for paddling and outdoor recreation with a day full of fun, competition and relaxation on Rotary Island. saultstemarie.com Aug. 26 & Sept. 30 — Workaholic Women’s Sunset Cruise, Muskegon Calling all working women! Join Britta Cleveland for a mid-week adventure with music, food and scenic views of Muskegon Lake and Lake Michigan aboard the Aquastar. aquastarcruises.com Sept. 4-6 — Bell’s Beer Copper Harbor Trails Festival The annual Labor Day Weekend event features Enduro races, short and long XC courses, downhill race, Junior MTB race, and a 10K Trail Run, plus music, beer and good times. copperharbortrails.org Sept. 6 — 14th annual Grand Marais Triathlon Set on the shores of Lake Superior, participants swim, cycle and run along the bay and scenic Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. grandmaraismichigan.com Sept. 6 — Boyne City Triathlon, Boyne City Test your stamina and skill by signing up for an Olympic Distance Triathlon, Sprint Distance Triathlon and Sprint Distance Duathlon. boynecitytriathlon.com Sept. 11-12 — Mackinac Bridge Antique Tractor Crossing and Show, St. Ignace Tractor parade begins in Mackinaw City and travels across the bridge through downtown, ending at the Little Bear Arena with other antique displays. stignace.com Sept. 12 — Black River Open Paddle, South Haven Join Michigan Maritime Museum members, volunteers and other paddlers for a beautiful fall paddle on the serene Black River in South Haven. michiganmaritimemuseum.org Sept. 12 — 50th annual Mackinac Island Eight Mile Race Join the 50th running of one of the oldest and most scenic races in Michigan. Experience Mackinac Island as you run or walk around the island’s perimeter on M-185. runmackinac.com Sept. 12 — Bon Voyage to Summer Cruise, Ludington Say goodbye to summer with an evening shoreline cruise aboard the S.S. Badger. Relax on the deck and enjoy Lake Michigan views

6900 Eight Mile Road, Onekama Historical one-owner home that overlooks PORTAGE LAKE and LAKE MICHIGAN from two of the large bedrooms! Drive on up to this grand piece of history on FIVE ACRES, with its 150-yrold post-and-beam barn and silo and you’ll understand what Onekama is all about. This home was gutted in 2003, fully insulated, and now offers solid, spacious living including four large bedrooms, three full bathrooms and a main-floor laundry area. The enormous MAIN-FLOOR MASTER SUITE steps out to the back deck, which also overlooks the rolling countryside.

Sprawl out inside this wonderful home with lots of light from all the windows. Many walk-in, lighted closets. Easy-maintenance vinyl siding. 2-Car Detached Garage. Full, older basement. A wonderful package. This is where your family reunions will now be held! $324,000 See the whole property at: https://youtu.be/kPBxVMVC520

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and music by Two Dudes in Flip Flops. ssbadger.com Sept. 12 — Tahquamenon Wilderness Canoe Race, Paradise Race day consists of two MCRA-sanctioned races: an individual challenge and a team-of-two event. The morning starts with a 17-mile, twoperson canoe race on the Tahquamenon River. tahquamenonwildernesscanoerace.org Sept. 13 — 4th annual Mackinac Island Vintage Bike Ride Bring your classic bike, rat rod or custom build and enjoy the fun on this relaxing ride departing 10 a.m. from Marquette Park. Return for the 2 p.m. bike show and raffle. mackinacisland.org Sept. 18 — Remembering the ‘Queen of the Lake,’ Ludington Hear the history of this famous vessel and view artifacts and memorabilia at the Port of Ludington Maritime Museum. ludingtonmaritimemuseum.org Sept. 18-20 — 31st Zoo-de-Mack, Harbor Springs to Mackinac Island Get your friends together for the premier biking party in northern Michigan that traverses 51 miles on paved but hilly roads and ends on Mackinac Island with post-race relaxation. zoo-de-mack.com Sept. 18-20 — Marji Gesick, Marquette County Now in its fifth year, the Marji Gesick is a 100-mile mountain bike race on an unmarked trail through the remote Michigan woodlands. Sign up for a foot race along the same path. marjigesick.com Sept. 26 — Harbor Springs Cycling Classic The 30th anniversary of this classic cycling event offers stunning vistas, three distance routes and a family-friendly vibe that ends with a barbecue. All routes include the Tunnel of Trees or the Little Traverse Wheelway. birchwoodinn.com/hscyclingclassic.html

Aug. 8 — Short’s Fest, Elk Rapids Join Short’s Brewing for the 11th annual summer celebration with food trucks, live music, Short’s brews, Starcut Ciders and more at the Elk Rapids production facility. shortsbrewing.com/shortsfest

Sept. 19 — Taste of Harbor Springs, Harbor Springs Foodies can’t wait for this tasteful event on the shore of Little Traverse Bay. Bring your appetite along with your friends. harborspringschamber.com

Aug. 15 — Algonac Bourbon, Brews & BBQ Festival Enjoy cold brews, mouthwatering BBQ, smooth and smokey bourbon and music at Waterfront Park. bourbonbrewsnbbq.com

Sept. 25 — On Tap and Uncorked, Muskegon Enjoy a multi-sensory tasting experience among the Muskegon Museum of Art galleries. Sample beer, cider and wine by Michigan crafters. muskegonartmuseum.org

Aug. 15 — Suds on the Shore, Ludington One of Ludington’s largest events, Suds on the Shore brings together 60 crafters for an afternoon of tasting in Rotary Park. sudsontheshore.com

Sept. 26 — Port Huron Beer Festival This beer festival features craft brews from leading and emerging Michigan breweries, plus food and music in Kiefer Park on the banks of the St. Clair River. phbeerfest.com

Aug. 21-22 — Margarita Fest, Lexington Grab your silly hats, leis, blinking anything and head downtown for island music and Caribbean fun! lexington-arts.org Aug. 22 — 5th Annual Hops on the Harbor, Manistique Drink beer with a view of the harbor at Manistique Boat Landing across from the marina. Come and meet the brewers and taste their latest brews and ciders. hopsontheharbor.com Aug. 28-30 — Mackinac Island Fudge Festival Mackinac Island is famous for its fudge! Join in the fudge-making demonstrations, fudgeinspired dinners and cocktails, fudge and wine tasting and more. mackinacisland.org Sept. 5 — Salsa Festival, Harbor Beach Taste salsa variations prepared by local merchants. Pick up a button and ballot at the Visitors Center then stroll downtown to stop at the salsa tasting stations. bluewater.org

G R E AT TA S T E S

Sept. 12 — Keweenaw Brewfest, Houghton Crack open a cold one for a good cause. Pick from over 50 different breweries offering 200 beers in Raymond Kestner Waterfront Park. keweenawgives.org

Aug. 1 — Blues and Brews Festival, St. Ignace Head down to the St. Ignace Marina for blues music and beer from 15 Michigan craft breweries.

Stay for the 10 p.m. fireworks over the bay! stignace.com

Sept. 12 — UP Fall Beer Fest, Marquette Over 600 locally crafted beers from more than 80 Michigan breweries. Listen to a talented lineup of musicians while you sip beer in Mattson Lower Harbor Park. mibeer.com

Aug. 1 — Moloney’s Michigan Beerfest, Sault Ste. Marie Sample brews from some of Michigan’s finest craft breweries, showcasing all brewing styles, and chat with brewmasters during this intimate tasting event. downtownsault.org

Sept. 19 — Harvest Festival and Chili & Pie Cook-off, Harbor Beach Chili, street vendors, music, water events … something for everyone. Visitors, aka judges, sample dozens of homemade chili recipes made by local merchants. harborbeachchamber.com

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Sept. 26 — Octoberfest, Iron Mountain Celebrate an authentic Bavarian Oktoberfest with German food, beer, entertainment, polka dancing, sing-alongs, a stein holding competition and fun for all. downtownironmountain.com

EXCURSIONS LEGEND Explore these collective Michigan area websites for more regional events and details.

Blue Water Area bluewater.org Detroit Metro CVB visitdetroit.com Great Lakes Bay Region gogreat.com Harbor Country harborcountry.org Pure Michigan michigan.org Southwest Michigan Tourist Council swmichigan.org Upper Peninsula Tourism & Recreation Association uptravel.com West Michigan Tourist Association wmta.org

Explore Michigan’s natural wonders

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MICHIGAN TOP 5

BY KIM SCHNEIDER

Michigan outings worth writing (novels) about

J

ust as he carefully sketches his human characters, best-selling author Wade Rouse gets intimately acquainted with Michigan, the setting for all of his novels, making him both a travel and literary expert.

Rouse’s immersion in place has him writing novels by hand on Saugatuck’s Oval Beach, taking notes amid orchard rows, hunting for Petoskey stones. “We are blessed to live in one of the world’s most beautiful places,” he said, “and I want readers when they read my work to feel as if they are here, on vacation at the lake or strolling through one of our unique resort towns.”

Read about Michigan’s lake country — and experience the author’s favorite spots — at these getaway favorites from five of his works or works in progress under his pen name Viola Shipman.

“The Heirloom Garden,” Grand Haven In Rouse’s newest novel about hope amid isolation, the Grand Haven Musical Fountain becomes a way for one family to escape life’s trouble and bond. Rouse heads in real life to what was the world’s largest musical fountain when it was built. “A perfect touristy summer evening is eating a couple of corndogs (Pronto Pups, of course) on the beach and then heading over to watch the colorful waters dance in sync with the music.”

“The Recipe Box,” Suttons Bay You’ll recognize the beaches, orchards and wineries of Leelanau Peninsula in this book which Rouse said celebrates the “best summer fruit in the nation.” Much of the novel’s research took place at Crane’s Pie Pantry, Restaurant and Winery in Fennville, where he spent weeks talking with owner Becky Crane (and tasting). Said Rouse: “There is no place more Michigan, more adorable, more throwback, more beautiful or more delicious.”

“The Lake Effect,” Traverse City and Harbor Springs His first winter novel, set in Traverse City and north, scheduled for tentative publication in fall 2021, has lake-effect snow as a character. There’s the discovery of winter fun, too, through the eyes of a

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displaced meteorologist who moves from Palm Springs to Traverse and by necessity throws herself into festivals, sledding, snowshoeing and skiing. The Downtown Harbor Springs Ice Fest captivated Rouse during research with the beauty of its carved creations.

“The Summer Cottage,” Saugatuck This was Michigan’s best-selling novel in 2019, and you might owe that to Rouse’s familiarity with place — his own backyard.

He regularly carries a sack lunch and beach chair, boards the circa-1838 Saugatuck Chain Ferry, and asks to run the crank across the river to Oval Beach just as character Adie Lou, an innkeeper, does in the book.

≈

Kim Schneider is an award-winning travel writer who shares her travel-savvy in every issue of BLUE.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KIM SCHNEIDER

“The Summer Camp,” Glen Arbor His next novel (out summer 2021) explores the friendship between four girls who grew up going to summer camp outside Glen Arbor. Amid a story of why childhood friendship is so important, he explored (and features) Sleeping Bear Dunes, Cherry Republic and the Cottage Book Store, a favorite gathering place of the characters he said is housed in a “too cute to be believed” log cabin and “screams ‘I’m Michigan.’”

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T R AV E L & A D V E N T U R E 2 0 2 0

TA S T I N G R O O M

BY GREG TASKER

All in the family Third-generation Leelanau Peninsula winemaker and fruit farmer diversifies

I

n many ways, Good Harbor Vineyards and Aurora Cellars are like sisters in a close-knit family but with different outlooks on life or, in this case, wine.

Good Harbor Vineyards is the eldest of the two and has long been a stopover on the Leelanau Wine Trail. The modest tasting room stands along Route 22, not far from the sandy shores of Lake Michigan, surrounded by vineyards producing chardonnay, riesling and pinot noir, to name a few. Good Harbor’s value-driven wines — some with names that have become iconic, like Fishtown White and Harbor Red — are popular with tourists and locals alike.

Aurora Cellars became part of the family just a few years ago. Situated amid rolling hills north of Lake Leelanau (the village),

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Aurora possesses a more sophisticated flair.

The tasting room exudes Old World charms, reflecting the styles of wine produced on the premises, with grapes from the surrounding vineyards and others on the peninsula. The reds — think pinot noir and cabernet franc — have lower alcohol levels with nice round fruit notes. The whites — riesling, pinot gris and gewürztraminer — are fruit forward with nicely balanced acidity.

“We look at Aurora as a destination,” said Sam Simpson, the third generation of his family to farm on the Leelanau Peninsula.

“All of my staff is expected to offer a fivestar experience to our guests. Everyone who walks through the door should expect that.”

That’s not a slight against Good Harbor Vineyards, one of the oldest wineries

in the northwest Lower Peninsula. Good Harbor traces its roots to a cherry orchard and fruit farm, begun by Sam’s grandfather.

His father, Bruce Simpson, eventually took the reins after the family diversified its operations, planting vines in the 1970s. Good Harbor opened for business in 1980.

Aurora Cellars became a part of the family’s wine portfolio in 2015. The 40-acre estate was formerly Circa Estate Winery, which closed its doors in 2011. Purchasing the winery made sense for the Simpsons, who needed to expand cellar space and believed another winery offered diversification.

The wineries operate under Harbor Hill Fruit Farms, which also offers custom crushing, vineyard services and mobile bottling.

Growth and diversification have long been a mantra of the Simpson family. Last summer, Good Harbor Vineyards unveiled new, inviting labels for most of its selection of white and red wines. The new design features the Simpson family’s Scottish crest and pays homage to the family’s farming heritage.

“We are winemakers, but we are also a family of fruit farmers. We value that and

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY AURORA CELLARS

Aurora Cellars’ vineyard is full of ripened red grapes at the end of summer.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY GOOD HARBOR VINEYARD (RIGHT MIDDLE); COURTESY AURORA CELLARS (REMAINING)

Above: Aurora Cellars wines and Good Harbor wines (right, center) are both owned by Harbor Hill, which also provides grape crushing services to other wineries.

its importance,” said Taylor Simpson, Sam’s sister, who serves as sales, marketing and distribution manager for both Good Harbor Vineyards and Aurora Cellars.

The fresh design also pays tribute to the winery’s important proximity to Lake Michigan’s Good Harbor Bay. Its location is embossed on the clean white label. The winery is situated on prime wine-growing terroir and the vineyards benefit from the lake’s moderating waters.

“Good Harbor has always been a wonderful winery,” said Jack Keyes, a fifth-generationresident of northwestern Michigan and wine connoisseur well-versed in Northern Michigan wines. “They’ve always had good wines, but they have really improved their game in recent years. In terms of quality of wines and price, they’re one of the better-buy wines in the region …”

The Simpsons, as part of their business operations, have taken a significant role in helping Michigan’s wine industry extend its footprint.

Harbor Hill’s crushing services help other wineries produce their wines. Its new, hightech mobile bottling line is a first in the state and allows novice wineries to bottle their juice without having to invest in expensive equipment. Harbor Hill has traveled all over Michigan helping vintners bottle their

wines. Among them is Youngblood Vineyard near Detroit.

“We really relied on them for our first bottling,” said Jessica Youngblood, who owns the Macomb County winery with her husband, Dave. “I don’t know what we would have done without them. It’s hard enough to get started without having to invest in bottling equipment.”

As always, the Simpsons have their eyes on the future. Next year, the family is moving ahead with its largest planting, adding 40 to 45 acres of new vines, including some new varietals, such as auxerrois and pinot meunier, as well as more traditional grapes, pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay. The Simpsons also are looking to boost production at Aurora Cellars, with a goal of producing 15,000 cases, up from current production of about 3,000 to 4,500 cases a year.

“I think Michigan is where California was in the 1970s,” Simpson said. “There’s so much possibility. We have a lot of room to grow in this state. We want to be a part of that and help others. A rising tide, as they say, raises all ships.”

≈

Greg Tasker is a Traverse City-based writer who frequently writes about Michigan’s growing wine industry.

MICHIGAN BLUE

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T R AV E L & A D V E N T U R E 2 0 2 0

D I N I N G D E S T I N AT I O N S Brett Saha checks out a new shipment of Pinconning cheese in the aging cooler.

Say cheese

which two artisan makers share space but craft their own distinct styles.

Start your sampling with:

Y

ou can still buy bricks of creamy orange-gold Pinconning at the official Cheese Capitol of Michigan — and from the recipe that founder Dan Horn brought from neighboring Wisconsin when in 1915 the state had such a surplus of milk that it went recruiting for an expert cheesemaker.

But Pinconning Cheese & Fudge Shoppe owner Brian Saha today mixes things up to please more adventurous eaters. Blending Michigan morels and leeks into the special aged colby recipe is one favorite; he even offers fresh, squeaky curds, battered and ready for deep frying.

Elsewhere in the state, cheesemaking is being inspired not just by a century-old recipe, Michigan forest finds and tasty bar food, but by the French countryside, the Italian Alps and the terroir of the state itself. The art is being practiced at spots like a Buddhist collective teeming with baby goats and a northern Michigan cheese barn in

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Sweet Swiss and an Italian Taleggio; Boss Mouse Cheese and Saltless Seas Creamery (Kingsley) If Buddhist mantras are the soundtrack for Bella Luna cheese, rock and roll is more likely to be blaring from speakers at this Kingsley farm, though you also may detect the sweet sound of collaboration.

Something of a mighty mouse herself, Boss Mouse founder Sue Kurta blended experience from careers in rock and roll and corporate banking with apprenticeships with some of the top East Coast cheesemakers

A French Crottin, White Lotus Farms (Ann Arbor) Listen to Amy Blondin describe the making of her favorite Bella Luna cheese, and you’ll easily pick up on the founding mission of this Buddhist collective: to bring happiness and goodness through meaningful, creative work — in this case inspired by French markets teeming with baguettes, good coffee, fresh vegetables and fine cheese. In this farm

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY PINCONNING CHEESE CO. (TOP); COURTESY SALTLESS SEA CREAMERY (BOTTOM LEFT); COURTESY BELLA LUNA CHEESE (BOTTOM RIGHT)

BY KIM SCHNEIDER

to found a Kingsley-based operation (bossmousecheese.com) now going on 10 years.

You can buy her fresh hand-pulled mozzarella when summer markets are filled with ripe tomatoes and basil, but her bestseller is her Swiss. “I don’t even know why,” she said of the cheese’s success. “But we call it sweet Swiss. It’s salt free, and you get this really nutty, sweet milk taste.”

For more than a year, she’s been mentoring cheesemaker David Omar (saltlesssea.com), who brought his childhood experiences of making fresh cheese with Middle Easternborn grandparents and experience in cheese shops like Zingerman’s to the collaboration.

Omar draws inspiration mostly from Italy, even in his Americano, an Italian semisoft, washed-rind product with a distinctly Michigan addition: craft beer. Instead of soaking the cheese in a water brine, the classic way, he substitutes a 2:1 mixture of brown and amber ales.

“It isn’t as fruity as a traditional taleggio; it has a real nice savory maltiness,” he said. “You get that sweet cream, then a malty/savory flavor with a bit of salt. It’s big and funky.”

our mantras, mindfulness practices while we’re making the cheese. There’s a lot of love that goes into them.”

Pinconning (Pinconning) No one appreciates craft cheeses more than Saha, owner of Pinconning Cheese & Fudge Shoppe (pinconningcheese.com), and he doesn’t expect Pinconning to give up its state title anytime soon, not with the gen-

erations of Michiganders who grew up with Pinconning as a picnic snack on their way north driving production of some 70,000 pounds a year.

Amish-raised cows and a secret recipe that increases the moisture and cream content of traditional colby are keys to the distinct tang and creaminess offered by his company and Wilson’s Cheese Shoppe, which also uses the original recipe.

“It’s been a standard in our state for more than 100 years; those who’ve enjoyed it over the years know what I’m talking about, and anybody who does not has to try it,” he said.

“Once they taste our cheese, they won’t go back to just any variety. That’s been our goal over the years.”

≈

Kim Schneider is an award-winning travel writer and author based in Traverse City.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY PINCONNING CHEESE CO.

and creamery with twice weekly on-site markets (whitelotusfarms.com), there’s also the additional fun of Nigerian dwarf goat babies frolicking in the fields of brambles, nettles and yarrow on which they graze.

“It’s all these little layers of cheese curd we hand ladle into little molds,” Blondin said of the making of her French-inspired “croissant” of the cheese world. “It’s almost sculptural, and it’s very meditative.”

Each tiny packet, or crottin, is delicately hand-flipped, drained, unhooped, patted dry, salted with fine grain sea salt, drained, put on mats and flipped daily in an aging fridge. When ready to eat, they have the “yeasty, buttery mushroom flavors of a fine French cheese, when aged a bit a flavor more brothy, savory and dense,” she noted. “We call them babies because they’re delicate and small and they are needy; we try to do

MICHIGAN BLUE

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T R AV E L & A D V E N T U R E 2 0 2 0

REFLECTIONS

BY JERRY DENNIS | ILLUSTRATION BY GLENN WOLFF

G

A round river

lenn Wolff and I got lost on the Crystal River. That isn’t easy to do. The Crystal, in Leelanau County, is one of Michigan’s prettiest rivers but it flows only six miles from Big Glen Lake to Lake Michigan. It’s a short distance as the crow flies, but a crow flies straight and the Crystal is anything but. It meanders in long, exaggerated sweeps that on a map look like a seismograph during a major tremor.

It was mid-September of a drought year when Glenn and I waded a section of the Crystal to fish for bass and pike. The river was running so low that much of it was only ankle deep. We walked through the shallows and fished the small pools at the bends and beneath overhanging cedars. A few early Chinook had built redds in the gravel riffles. Male salmon were creating all kinds of havoc, splashing and swirling as they chased rivals, while the big females turned on their sides and beat the gravel clean with powerful thrusts of their tails.

The day was too hot for hurrying, so Glenn and I took our time. We’d brought sandwiches, but only one small bottle of water. We planned to wade to the first bridge, then walk the road back to the car.

At one point we spotted a northern pike next to the bank. It hovered motionless; its shadow drawn sharply on the bottom beneath it. I swung a streamer past it, but the fish didn’t react. I pumped the fly to make it look alive, but I let it get too close to the fish and it lodged in a pectoral fin.

The pike turned and shot downstream.

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We walked through the shallows and fished the small pools at the bends and beneath overhanging cedars.

It was bigger than I expected, maybe eight pounds. It ran beneath a tangle of submerged roots and rubbed the fly off.

Glenn was watching from upstream.

“What happened?”

“You don’t want to know.”

The sun was getting low by then, and we

were tired and thirsty. We didn’t know how far it was to the bridge, but I had a trick up my sleeve.

In many places the Crystal’s meanders are so extreme that they nearly touch. You can step over a neck of land and bypass a quarter mile of river. I knew this because I’d been fishing and canoeing the Crystal all my life and considered myself an expert. I led the way up the bank and into the woods. When we found the river, we set off downstream, smug in the knowledge that we had shortened our walk considerably.

“Didn’t we already pass that tree?” Glenn asked, pointing at a cedar leaning into the river.

Part of it had been chopped off by a chainsaw. Apparently, we were going in circles. Maybe we had intercepted a reverse bend or something. Maybe a meander within a meander. We never quite figured it out.

After a while we passed the bank where I’d snagged the pike and then the place where we left the river looking for a shortcut. It was nearly dark when we got back to the car.

Getting lost on a river I’ve known all my life was a little embarrassing, but that’s okay.

I’ve done much worse. Besides, I’m convinced that getting lost now and then is good for us.

It humbles us, makes the familiar seem new again, and reminds us that we’re travelers in a world full of surprises.

≈

Writer Jerry Dennis and artist Glenn Wolff do much of their traveling near their homes in the Traverse City area. See more of their work at bigmaplepress.com

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