Mid-Atlantic Koi Magazine June 2013

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Mid~Atlantic Koi The Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club

June 2013


Mid~Atlantic Koi The Membership Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club

Volume 26, Number 10

June 2013

—Upcoming Events Long Island Chapter Meetings . . . . .36 3 MAKC Club Events . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Beginner’s Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 MAKC Corporate Members . . . . . . . . . . .7 Pros and Cons of UV Sterlizers . . . . . . . .8

Annual MAKC Meeting BBQ and Multi-Club Auction MAKC Koi Show

Linda Montgomery, Oregon

Controlling Pond Algae . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Ray Jordan, Texas

—MAKC News

Oxygen in Ponds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

President’s Message . . . . . . . .3 From the Editor’s Desk . . . . . .6 MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers . . . . . . . .31 Treasurer’s Report . . . . . . . . .37 Sunshine Column . . . . . . . . .37 F..A..S..T Ads . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Ad Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Ben Helm, England

Gibbs Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Susan Boland, North Carolina

Koi Photography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Ray Jordan, Texas

Big Koi Caper – Part 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Carolyn Weise, Florida

Koi Food Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Mid-Atlantic Koi Deadlines for articles, meeting announcements and ads July Issue Deadline: Available Online: August Issue Deadline: Available Online:

Ken Austin, Koi Organisation International

Saugerties Chapter Report . . . . . . . . . . .31 Herb Ehrich, New York

June 1 July 1

Feeding Your Koi (Reprint per Request) . . . .32

July 1 August 1

On the Road to a Koi Event . . . . . . . . . . .34

Ray Jordan, Texas

Picture to Share . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 MAKC Membership Application . . . . .41

Gibbs Garden, see article starting on page 18. Photo by Susan Boland

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Mid-Atlantic Koi Magazine Editor, Carolyn Weise

makcmag@makc.com

(239) 573-6650 x105

Advertising Editor, Philip Gray

(516) 486-5163

philiegray@mac.com

Meeting/Events Editor, Joyce Spears (856) 478-2952 gjs63@comcast.net FAST Ads Editor, Ellie Cooper (610) 865-1163

mamakoi@verizon.net

Billing and Collections, Floyd Broussard (703) 491-4921

fbrou2801@verizon.net

June 2013


President’s Message by Philip Gray Suggestions4MAKC@gmail.com

I

hope this letter finds all of our club members healthy and happy, enjoying this Koi season.

It is with sadness and a heavy heart that I have to let you know that Saito Maasru could not stay to complete his United States Trip. He learned that his wife's Father passed away and has returned today to Japan to be with his family. Saito was very torn between his commitment to his family and to the American Koi Clubs who were looking forward to learning about koi keeping from Saito's vast knowledge. He wants to each club member to know how sorry he is that he had to return to Japan so quickly. On behalf of all three clubs, I told Saito that we all understand and respect his commitment to his family. This is a sad and unforeseen occurrence. I let him know that we appreciated his willingness and the effort he made to come to America for the Seminar and that we look forward to having him with us next year. To acknowledge and compensate the three clubs who shared in the expenses associated with Saito's trip he has donated 3 Koi to the Michigan Club, 2 Koi to the Tri-State ZNA and 2 Koi to MAKC. The Koi will be available for pick up at the Tri-State ZNA Koi Show at the end of the month. It is also appropriate to let you all know that the travel expenses associated with this trip have already been credited towards Saito's return next year, so we can all look forward his return without the need for additional expenses. On behalf of both Saito and myself we are sorry for this change of plans and appreciate your understanding and support.

2013 Annual Meeting June 9th will be our Annual MAKC meeting. We will vote for our MAKC officers. Steve Borakowski will educate us on "Shade Sails. He will talk about their importance for a Koi Pond and how to install them. June 2013

Steve and Nancy Borakowski will host the meeting at their house. 15 Whitetail Lane Commack, NY 11725 631-499-0363 sborakowski@optonline.net 211 The Agenda for the meeting will include: • 12 to 1 Club business • Lunch 1:30:pm If you want to add any items to the Agenda, please email them to me at Suggestions4MAKC@gmail.com.

August 18th Club BBQ I am very happy to announce our upcoming collaborative auction sale of 30 Goshki Tosai, 15 Ginrin and 15 Non-Ginrin. We will hold the auction on August 18 at our Seminar/Club Meeting, and we will collaborate with Tristate ZNA Koi clubs for this event. The proceeds from the auction will benefit all of the clubs evenly. Please look out for additional information in the next coming weeks. 211 S Ocean Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 (516) 486-5163

2013 Annual Koi Show This year's MAKC’s 2013 Annual Koi Show will be held September 27-29, 2013, at: Kodama Koi Garden at Waterford Gardens 74 East Allendale Road Saddle River, NJ, 07458 http://www.waterfordgardens.com/ In preparation for the show, we still need two leaders to step into the following key positions, which are both integral to the success of this event. Facility Chair: Your committee will take responsibility for managing the Show’s water quality and for all set-up and take-down activities.

President’s Message, continued on page 5

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 3


Beginner’s Corner

Remember to Renew Your Membership

Ask a question and we will get you an answer.

Question: Do Koi need sunlight? Our pond is down and Koi are being kept in a large tank out of sunlight. Might be for a couple years, would that represent a problem?

Answer: There doesn’t seem to be any direct health problems I could find from not having direct sun on the fish. There is some information suggesting that the colors of Koi are improved by sunlight. A pond may benefit from sun by growing algae on the sides that the fish do eat. Your case could be helped by installing fluorescent lights over the tank. Any color loss would probably come back after they are reintroduced to outdoor pond and sunlight. Have you thought about keeping water temperature in the 65 -75°F range to keep the fish’s immune system working? Remember keep these questions coming. 

Don’t Wait Do it Today.

Note: This column offers suggestions only; the ultimate care of your pond and fish is up to you.

Renewal form you can print out is on page 41.

Wanted – Your Questions

Or you can renew Online at anytime.

www.makc.com Page 4 Mid-Atlantic Koi

Please email your questions to makcmag@makc.com. We look forward to hearing from you!

June 2013


President’s Message, continued from page 3

Fundraising Chair: Along with your committee, you will take responsibility for lining up our sponsors, identifying and securing donations and finding trophy sponsors.

As always, I welcome your partnership in our upcoming collaborative events, as well as your suggestions about what kind of events and topics you would like to see MAKC provide to its members. ď ś

We are also still looking for Show Volunteers, so please email your inquiries and interest to Suggestions4MAKC@gmail.com or call me at 516-967-4966. For members looking for lodging during the Annual Koi Show, we are working with: The Holiday Inn 2339 Route 4 East Fort Lee, NJ 07024 Tel: (201) 522-0654 Please mention our event, and they will accommodate accordingly. June 2013

The Lily Tanks at Waterford Gardens, home to our Annual Koi Show Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 5


MAKC Executive Committee

From the Editor’s Desk

Philip Gray

by Carolyn Weise makcmag@makc.com

Bernie Szer

Vice-President (516) 241-4655

gasssman246@aol.com

Dinah Bwint

Secretary (610) 287-9178

sanke@verizon.net

Carolyn Broussard

(703) 491-4921

T

his time of year everyone’s focus is on clearing up the green water. Or we are gathering momentum in our algae-phobia, which is pretty much the same I guess. So, this magazine is dedicated to issues related to Spring Ponds, New Ponds, and whatever else affects our enjoyment and the health & quality of our koi ponds. We have a very novel look at UV Sterilizers by Linda Montgomery, KHA in Washington State. I wonder if we have ever really considered pros and cons of using one before. I could never see a “con” to having a UV on the pond…before.

President (516) 486-5163 philiegray@mac.com Cell (516) 967-4966

Treasurer lynlee4@verizon.net

Central Chapter Vice-President Looking for a Volunteer Long Island Chapter Vice-President Bruce Levine

(516) 735-2644

bruce@li-koi.com

North Chapter Vice-President Dan Bitcon

(973) 699-2186

DanVideo@aol.com

Saugerties (NY) Chapter Vice-President Herb Ehrich

(845) 247-7105

HerbEhrich05@yahoo.com

South Chapter Vice-President Chuk Nixon

(301) 717-7702

chuknixon@aol.com

Standing Committe es

Ray Jordan, our friend and koi judge supreme in the great state of Texas has some words of wisdom on Controlling Pond Algae, too. And did you realize how algae affect our pond’s oxygen supply? Well, how about the impact of oxygen in the pond on algae? Read Ben Helm’s article Oxygen in Ponds which first appeared in POND Trade Magazine and has very generously been granted to us.

Membership Barry Hixson

(610) 262-5184 makcmembers@verizon.net AKCA Representative

Philip Gray

(516) 486-3807

Ruth & Gene Rice Michael Snyder

(301) 762-2059

One last note: a big thank you to everyone who donated articles and pictures to share! Great clubs are great because they have great club members. MAK is one! Your Koi Friend, Carolyn

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makc@imsnyder.com

(828) 693-3851 waynesorchard@gmail.com Japanese Cultural Coordinator

Floyd Broussard

(703) 491-4921 fbrou2801@verizon.net

Exe cut ive B o ard Adv is or y Committe e

Joe Zuritsky

(828) 693-3851 waynesorchard@gmail.com (215) 575-4001 jzuritsky@parkwaycorp.com

Betty Roemer

(828) 697-2692

roroemer@mchsi.com

Art Lembke

(410) 867-0270

artsKoi1@aol.com

Mike Riordan

(732) 747-6089

Koidog1@verizon.net

Gene Rice

(304) 725-2333

RiceGene@comcast.net

Eric Wilson

(613) 421-7890

wilseric@rogers.com

Susan Boland

(828) 693-3851

makcmag@gmail.com

Ellie Cooper

(610) 865-1163

mamakoi@verizon.net

Ja p a n es e Cul tur a l Adv is er Misa Sitterly

Mid-Atlantic Koi is the magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. Material is selected for its interest to Koi keepers. MAKC accepts no responsibility for accuracy of content. Reproduction of uncopyrighted articles is permitted as long as this magazine is credited as the source.

sew4Koi@comcast.net

WebMaster

Wayne Orchard

And then, of course, you have the ongoing saga(s) at my house! See how the Big Koi Caper (Part 2) is coming along, as the pond repairs sometimes seem never-ending. This is a very big job. I hope it’s worth it in the end.

(304) 725-2333

MAKC Notice Group Manager

Wayne Orchard

If you loved the cover picture, you will want to walk with Susan Boland and Wayne Orchard, our former club Presidents, in Gibbs Garden. It reminds me how important it is to take time to enjoy the beauty of nature.

philiegray@mac.com

MAKC Sales

(703) 490-0770

sitterly@comcast.net

MAKC Home Page: http://www.makc.com

Production: Cindy Graham, TC Publishing, Inc.

June 2013


M A KC

Corporate

Members

www.mazuri.com

Quality Koi Company Nisei Koi Farm 856-299-7564 info@qualitykoi.com

www.qualitykoi.com

Interested in becoming a Corporate Member?

East Coast – Patio Ponds, LTD 301-874-8440 West Coast – Laguna Koi Ponds 949-494-5107

www.MatalaUSA.com June 2013

Reasonable one time fee for the year – includes a Business Card size ad in all issues in this section and on the MAKC website. Contact Barry Hixson at 610-262-5184 or makcmembers@verizon.net Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 7


Pros and Cons of UV Sterlizers by Linda Montgomery, Oregon

Ultraviolet Sterilizers any years ago it was discovered that ultraviolet radiation was a safe and effective solution for killing microorganisms. These findings resulted in the use of UV radiation for the treatment of drinking water. After that UV lights were used in the Koi hobby for killing algae, for protozoan sterilization and bacterial issues. As the water passes through the U.V. light chamber the UV light zaps the DNA of the algae or the microorganisms. The UV light kills the microorganisms from within, as the DNA of the cell absorbs the light forcing the molecules within the cell to fuse together. The cell can no longer duplicate itself once this has taken place and so it will then die. Killing microorganisms require a slower flow rate than the flow rate to kill algae.

M

Last month Tom Riehl sent me a question that is a great topic. Here is Tom’s question: Linda, I know it may be a controversial topic, but can you do an article on the pros and cons of UV light treatment of ponds? Best Regards, Tom

PROS Now I have to admit that this question was a bit of a surprise to me, not the pros of a UV light treatment but that I hadn’t really thought about the cons. I have had an ultraviolet system in my pond for 20 years and never thought about any negative aspects of it until Tom’s question. Like many pond keepers, I installed the UV to take care of algae in my pond, so what could be negative about that! After all, we all want to see and enjoy our fish! But when I really started thinking about it I realized how much more complicated this topic really was. So here is some basic information about UV lights and the positives and negatives about them. Page 8 Mid-Atlantic Koi

• UV lights offer a permanent solution for eliminating green water. Using algaecides/chemicals causes fluctuations in the pond environment and offers only a temporary solution. Many pond keepers have zapped their fish of oxygen in the process of zapping the algae with chemicals. • UV lights also have some effect on killing protozoa in the pond but at a much slower flow rate than it takes for algae. • UV lights can kill bacteria at a much slower flow rate however it does not diminish the effectiveness of nitrifying bacteria in wellestablished biological filters. June 2013


Sample UV

• UV lights are also less time consuming and need very little attention. Chemicals on the other hand require constant attention to ensure they're effective.

CONS • A UV light system cannot remove all forms of algae. The algae needs to pass through the UV system and not all algae are freeflowing in the pond water (such as string algae). • The UV sterilizer cannot remove organic matter, it only destroys algae cells. Clear water is not necessarily healthy water, the ammonia and the organic matter are still in the water. Because their pond water is so clear some pond owners think that their pond has good water quality and may not perform the regular water tests that should be done for the health of their fish. • Expensive initial cost and added additional cost for plumbing, valves and flow meter. • Expensive to maintain –the bulbs need to be replaced every year or so, depending if you use them year round or not. • Requires cleaning. The tubing that moves the water into the light path must be cleaned periodically. It is possible to break bulbs, quartz sleeves or portions of the plumbing during these cleaning chores. • Can be harmful/damaging to the eyes so when changing the bulbs or doing any June 2013

maintenance the pond owner should never leave the light on or look at the light. • Many medications can be affected by the UV light, so the light should be turned off during medications. Some medications, especially if using chelated copper, are not only weakened by the UV lights but will have a sudden and lethal concentration of ionic copper. • Confusion on what kind of UV to get (Low or Medium pressure). Needs proper installation to be effective. Correct flow through the UV system is necessary to kill the algae. Too fast or too slow is not going to be effective. Do your research when choosing a UV light and when installing one! • Protozoan control and bacterial control requires a much slower flow rate, which would be too slow to efficiently control algae. So to be practical, UV lights for bacterial or protozoan control should be used in a quarantine tank/isolation tank system. • UV radiation is a radiation that may reduce bacterial count but it does NOT choose the good or the bad bacterial population.

Misconceptions There are a lot of misconceptions regarding the use of UV sterilization in Koi ponds or water gardens. One of the concerns that I have heard from pond owners over the years is that you Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 9


could sterilize your pond and kill all the beneficial bacteria in your pond. While it is true that at a slower flow rate the UV light can kill bacteria in the pond, it would be impossible to kill all the bacteria. In an established pond situation there are nitrifying bacteria on the liner, rock surfaces and filter media. In order for the bacteria to be killed by the UV system the water must run through the UV light chamber and obviously those areas are not going to be affected by the UV rays. What the UV will do, is reduce some of the bacteria including harmful bacteria, however this is only when it is properly sized for your pond and flow rate. Another misconception is that it will filter the pond water. While the water may be clear from the UV light killing the single cell algae in the pond, people can misinterpret that clear water for good water quality. You can have clear water and still have water that would be detrimental to the fish. So a good biological filtration is extremely important to break down the dead

algae and other dead organics in your pond. There is another misconception and that is that the UV bulb is effective as long as it is working. UV bulbs are designed to work only a limited amount of hours as prescribed by the manufacturer. Once it's Ultra-violet output drops to 60%, even though the bulb is still lit it is really no longer effective against algae growth or bacteria elimination. It is just "burning up" electricity. Most UV bulbs need to be replaced after 12 months of use. Some may last longer but that is uncommon. Some people believe that UV lights are without maintenance except for changing the bulbs. This is not true. In order for the UV light to be effective it requires regular cleaning to maintain its ability to clear the water of algae. The tubing that moves the water through the light must be cleaned as it builds up film and calcium deposits. However, this can be avoided if you buy one of the newer UV light systems that are equipped with built in ‘wipers’ on the sleeves. For example, some models of UV lights have a rod that you can pull that has been mounted to the inside of the quartz sleeve in which to periodically clean the inside of the UV. This is really important in areas with hard water as calcium deposits can build up on the quartz sleeve, which will block some of the UV rays from the water flowing through.

In Summary I think that the positive aspects of the UV light far outweigh the cons (even though the con list is longer!). And if you are one of the Koi keepers that have battled algae in your pond, I am sure you will agree! Thanks Tom for sending in this question on UV lights and sorry that it took me a while to answer! Please send any question or topics in to me as I have no subject for next month. Hope everyone is enjoying this lovely weather…although when this newsletter comes out we may be past these beautiful sunny days of early Spring!

 Page 10 Mid-Atlantic Koi

June 2013


June 2013

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 11


Controlling Pond Algae by Ray Jordan. Texas

here are two main types of algae conditions that can cause problems in our ponds. The first is often just called “Green Water,” which is actually an explosion or bloom of single cell floating algae organisms. Green water most occurs in the spring and especially in new ponds as they start through their maturation process.

T

However you do not want full shade but rather partial shade. If your pond is primarily a water garden allowing plants like water lilies to cover a large percentage of the surface is also helpful for algae control but make it harder to see and enjoy your fish.

Algae are plants and require sunlight, organic matter/nitrates, carbon dioxide, oxygen, certain minerals, and water. If you deprive undesirable algae of some of these necessities they will be largely replaced with the more desirable forms of algae.

Second element that you can control is minimizing high levels of organic material. This is important as it not only encourages undesirable algae growth but is also a polluted environment for our Koi and Goldfish and sets them up for health problems from bacterial infections and parasite infestations. Inadequate filtration systems or poor pond maintenance and insufficient water changes will increase the likelihood that problems with undesirable algae will occur. A clean pond free of decomposing material is much less likely to have algae issues and also healthier fish.

The first element that you can address is sunlight. Shallow ponds in full sunlight can be difficult situations to control undesirable algae. One of the best solutions can be to add some type of shade such as shade sails or an arbor over the pond.

Mother nature abhors a vacuum and algae is one of the organisms along with bacteria to rush in and feast on abundant food sources in our ponds. Avoid keeping too many fish and over feeding to reduce the amount of organics that can encourage excessive algae growth.

The second type is an undesirable “long” filamentous algae can cause serious problems by clogging your returns and swamping your filters with clumps of green algae material.

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June 2013


A more artificial solution that will work for green water but not for filamentous algae is an ultra violet unit. Under the right conditions a properly sized UV unit will kill Planktonic algae providing the entire volume of pond water can be circulated thru the unit every six hours.

The vast majority of these chemicals use copper compounds as the main algaecide ingredient. Copper compounds are extremely toxic to Koi and Goldfish and I heard too many stores of hobbyists totally wiping out their pet fish while trying to use one of these chemicals.

The drawback of UV units are that they are fairly expensive and the lamps lose their efficiency within about six months. Also realize that going this route without also addressing the root causes of green water means that something else will be filling the void, which is most likely bacterial population explosions which can cause health problems for your fish.

It is much better to fix the real cause of the undesirable algae overgrowth. You can reduce the amount of sunlight that strikes your pond. Build a trellis, arbor or use shade cloth to cover part of your pond. This will also be helpful during our hot summers to moderate water temperature.

With filamentous algae it will be helpful if you can physically remove as much of the strands as possible. The dying strands of algae decompose and set up decaying organic material to feed the next generation of algae growth. The easiest method to remove filamentous algae is to use a cheap plastic round toilet brush attached to a 8 ft piece of žË? PVC. You spin the brush/pvc pipe and it will snag and roll up the algae strands into nice green balls. Being lazy I attached an electric hand drill to the other end of the Toilet brush/pvc pipe and have a fast and simple automatic filamentous algae remover. Within a few seconds you will have a large grapefruit sized ball of algae wound around the brush. I use a box cutter to slice the ball on one side and the ball of algae will come off easily. Do not throw the algae in the garbage. It makes great composed material for a garden or use it as is for a natural mulch in your garden. Yes, there are chemicals that can treat undesirable algae in your pond; however, you will only be treating a symptom and not eliminating the cause of the problem. So it is likely the killed algae will merely recycle itself and the problem will return over and over again. June 2013

Nitrate is the end product of the nitrogen cycle that is occurring in your bio-filters. If you are not doing adequate water changes or pond/filter maintenance the organic and nitrate levels will increase and encourage undesirable algae growth. Aquatic plants utilize carbon dioxide and give off oxygen during the day. However at night they use oxygen and give off carbon dioxide. This is why fish kills happen at night or early in the morning when oxygen levels are at their lowest. Over active algae growth is not just unsightly and annoying it can be dangerous to your Koi. Over active undesirable algae growth is usually an indication of poor quality water conditions. There is no reason you cannot have clean and clear pond water provided you utilize these suggestions and give them ample time. Do not expect dramatic over night results but within a few weeks you will see a big difference. Slow changes are healthier than rapid changes and usually have a much longer effect as well. Good luck to everyone with your ponds and fish. ď ś Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 13


Oxygen Consumers in a Koi Pond by Ben Helm www.watergardenersbible.co.uk reprinted from POND Trade Magazine

issolved Oxygen Concentration (DOC) is the term given to describe the amount of oxygen that is dissolved in pond water. It is measured in terms of how much oxygen (by weight – mg) is dissolved in every litre of water. There are many factors that will affect DOC in a Koi pond, some of which we can control, others we cannot, but can respond in a number of ways to guard against problems.

D

Of course, dissolved oxygen is important to all life in a Koi pond, not simply the fish, and they all have a demand on the finite supply of oxygen dissolved in the pond water. The number of oxygen consumers in a pond will determine whether the dissolved oxygen concentrations in the pond are likely to be a problem or not, with a larger density putting a greater strain on the resource.

Page 14 Mid-Atlantic Koi

1) Koi.

In relation to the activities of bacteria and other microscopic pond organisms, the oxygen demand by Koi is not the greatest (but this will vary with stocking density). Compared to many other fish species, Koi are relatively tolerant of low dissolved oxygen concentrations (which is understandable, being a fish from slower moving warm waters). The range of DOC in a pond will run from a minimum (0mg/l) to a maximum (about 15mg/l), where even the supply of additional aeration would not change the DOC. A trout requires a high DOC of about 12mg/l while the more tolerant Koi can only require a much lower 6 mg per litre. Even so, below this, for short periods of time they can gasp at the surface to gain their required oxygen. Koi are equipped with gills, which have a very fine and delicate structure. Gills are used to absorb the oxygen that passes through them with some oxygen being dissolved in the water. They are very efficient at removing oxygen, absorbing 80% of the oxygen that speeds by their gills in the water (compare that to about 20% efficiency June 2013


of our lungs). Furthermore, Koi are able to pack the oxygen from 100 ml of water into 4 ml of blood. Quite a feat of bioengineering! 2) Bacteria/Fungi

The majority of bacteria in a pond are aerobic (requiring oxygen) mostly found in abundance in the filter. The activity (and oxygen demand) of a bacterial population will vary, depending on the water temperature and the amount of food that is present for them to break down in the water. The bacteria involved in breaking down ammonia into nitrites and then nitrates require oxygen. The greater the supply of ammonia and therefore nitrites, the greater the bacterial activity and oxygen demand. A further group of bacteria, known as heterotrophic bacteria, feed on organic matter, (both soluble and solid), that is present in the pond. As solids gather in a settlement chamber or excess food is allowed to float uneaten, the oxygen demand of these heterotrophic bacteria will rise as they gorge themselves on a banquet of food and fish waste. 3) Invertebrates.

The more mature a filter becomes, the greater the diversity of the invertebrate life that will colonize. A range of hungry critters from the virtually microscopic to the easily visible will all demand oxygen as they break down organic matter. Again, the more food there is to break down, the greater the demand on the pond’s oxygen reserves. 4) Plants.

Plants, both microscopic algae and larger plants, are oxygen consumers, day and night. Plants, like fish and all the other pond life, respire 24 hours a day, using up oxygen. Fortunately, the plants, during the day, also add oxygen to the pond’s oxygen budget in excess of what they require in the day. June 2013

Oxygen Budget However, as most Koi ponds are sparsely planted, particularly with oxygenating plants, then there is likely to be little oxygen added courtesy of the plant life. Furthermore, as fish stocking and feeding rates are in excess of what mother nature would decree, there is likely to be insufficient oxygen entering the pond passively by diffusion from the atmosphere. This can soon lead to an oxygen debt, where the demand and consumption of oxygen is in excess of the rate at which it is being added.

Factors that can cause the DOC to drop: Biological Factors

The demands on the oxygen dissolved in the pond can be extreme. If feeding rates are high and fish are at their most active, then Koi will be consuming oxygen at a high rate, as will the populations of bacteria and invertebrates breaking down the ammonia and undigested organic matter excreted by Koi. Plants in the daytime are natural oxygen producers, exceeding their own oxygen demand. At night, however, they still use oxygen but are no longer producers. This can lead to DOC dropping at night, especially if your pond is suffering from an algal problem. If algaecides are used, which can cause algae to die off this can also present a problem as it attracts considerable bacterial activity all of which consume DO. Climatic Factors

Temperature has a twofold effect on DOC. Firstly, as temperature increases the ability of water to hold dissolved oxygen decreases. Compounding this phenomenon is the effect that temperature has on the metabolism and oxygen demands of all aquatic life in a pond. As water temperatures increase, Koi will consume more food, excrete more ammonia, which attracts more bacterial action in the filter. So just Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 15


when a pond can ill afford too many demands on its oxygen, the oxygen requirements within a pond, including Koi, reach their highest levels of the year. It is essential to step in and add more oxygen. Chemical Factors

Pond treatments, both directly and indirectly, will cause oxygen to become limited in a pond. Any solute (dissolved substance added to a pond) will limit a pond’s ability to hold as much oxygen as was possible prior to the addition of a solute. So when adding any treatments, additional aeration is always recommended. Indirectly, many treatments can lead to an increase in organic matter that will be broken down. For example, algicides may lead to dead algae settling out in the filter, or other treatments can kill off bacteria, or lead to an increase in mucus production. All of these will eventually be broken down by oxygen-hungry bacteria.

directly proportional to the dissolved oxygen concentration. Low DOC will lead to poor filter performance and a peak in ammonia/nitrite may well lag behind such an incident.

Detecting and Measuring More Precisely A DOC deficit is only likely to occur at warmer temperatures, and a change in Koi behavior will be the first sign of a problem. A more precise method of quantifying the problem (or the margin of safety on a hot day) is with a digital DO meter. In an instant, it will show the DOC and more advanced units will indicate the degree of saturation by simultaneously measuring the water temperature. Even more advanced is a permanent DO monitoring system which will sound an alarm should DOC levels drop dangerously low. Such units are common place in intensive aquaculture and can also be used to detect either a pump or air pump failure due to the associated drop in DO.

Immediate Action Affects of low DOC on fish Low DOC has very obvious affects on Koi. If there is insufficient oxygen dissolved in the pond water, Koi will respond in the short-term, by becoming lethargic, swimming slower than normal, and perhaps hanging towards the surface. If the condition persists or even deteriorates, Koi will gather at water inlets or below a water fall and even start gasping air from the surface. By this stage they will already have become stressed, making them very susceptible to disease. Whenever I have taken a mucus scrape from a gasping fish, I have found an abnormally high density of protozoan parasites, busy capitalizing from the Koi’s momentary lapse of defense. A low DOC is also likely to affect Koi health indirectly, by adversely affecting the biological filter. The functioning of bacteria that are responsible for the breakdown of toxic waste is Page 16 Mid-Atlantic Koi

An acute low DO problem can occur through equipment failure, through unforeseen circumstances, or overlooking the likely effects of a pond treatment. In either case, once low DOC is detected, remedial action should be swift. 1) Agitate the water’s surface short-term by pouring buckets of pond water back into the pond. This can alleviate a short-term problem while you think of a more permanent solution. 2) Spray a hose into and across the pond, simulating rain. This will cause DOC to rise as an emergency measure, and the cooler tapwater will allow pond water to hold more oxygen.

Prevention Preventing a low DOC is far better than responding to a problem, and there are many aeration strategies that will solve the problem:

June 2013


1) Air Pump and Diffuser.

Air is the most effective when it is pumped to the bottom of a pond or filter chamber and dispersed into as fine bubbles as possible. The deeper a pond is, the greater the head of pressure an air pump has to displace before managing to deliver air to a diffuser. Hi-blow pumps are the Koi keeper’s standard, delivering good volumes of air under pressures capable of reaching depths of 8 . Recognizing that both fish and filters are oxygen consumers, aeration should be added to both the pond and biofilter chamber. Avoid aerating settlement chambers as the mixing action created by the airstones will interfere with the settlement action. The golf ball type of air diffuser is very easy to install and cost effective. Smaller bubbles can be achieved using different diffusers, such as leaky pipe, micro-bubblers and air domes, the latter converting a bottom drain into a diffuser where the airline can be trailed, out of sight, up the water pipe and into the filter. 2) Injection.

Venturis inject air into a stream of water as it returns under pressure from the pump. This is useful at creating a mixing effect in the surface layers of the pond water, but not regarded as effective as an air pump and diffuser system. 3) Waterfalls

These mix air and water as it cascades down the water-fall and enters the surface. In similar fashion to the venturi, a waterfall’s beneficial effects are limited to the upper layers of pond water.

Dos and Don’ts to Avoid a Low DOC Dos:

1) Try to aerate a pond as a matter of course, endeavoring to aerate down to the pond bottom. June 2013

2) Add additional aeration to the biofilter chambers, it will enhance bacterial colonization. 3) Clean out settlement chambers regularly. Even when organic matter is removed from the pond, it still attracts oxygen demanding bacteria in the filter. 4) Add additional aeration during any pond treatment or medication. Don’t:

1) Assume that if your fish have survived the hot day without additional aeration, they will survive the night. Night time is when DOC can really begin to drop, so continue to aerate. 2) Continue to aerate below 12°C (~54°F). Allow fish to settle in warmer deeper water. Aerating will simply mix up all layers of the water, losing the benefit of having such a deep pond. 3) Over stock. This will lead to a doubling of demand on oxygen from the Koi and the bacteria breaking down their waste.  About the Author Ben Helm is a qualified marine biologist, and since he was a teenager was fascinated by the aquatic world. His passion led him to work at the local aquatic store on an unpaid voluntary basis, eventually becoming the assistant manager. Later, he farmed Koi for a living on an innovative Koi farm in the UK. Ben was then appointed head of a brand new fish farming and aquatics department at Brooksby College, teaching and training students to make a living in the commercial aquatic world. Ben was marketing and product manager with Nishikoi for six years developing their range of marketleading pond and Koi foods and water treatments. Ben still works in animal nutrition, for a global pet nutrition business – Premier Pet Nutrition. More recently, Ben has written a top-selling pond book – The Water Gardener’s Bible (Rodale) for which Kelly Billing wrote the chapter on pond plants. Ben Helm’s website dedicated to pond and Koi keeping advice and information shares its name with his book: http://www.watergardenersbible.co.uk

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 17


Gibbs Garden by Susan Boland, North Carolina photos by Susan Boland

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Gibbs Gardens - History from the Gibbs Gardens Website 1987 Gibbs Dr. Ball Ground, GA 30107 im Gibbs traveled for 15 years covering the nation and the world viewing gardens of every style and decided that he wanted to design and build a world class garden. He spent six years looking for a suitable site with a strong source of water and beautiful mature trees covering a rolling topography. It was truly "a dream come true" when he found the most beautiful site in the nation to construct the garden. The property is 292 acres and the house and gardens include 220 acres, making it one of the nation's largest residential estate gardens.

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There is a beautiful stream flowing through the middle of the valley, with hundreds of springs

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intersecting the stream. The springs are surrounded by millions of naturalized ferns making it one of the largest ferneries in the nation. Native azaleas, dogwoods, and mountain laurels provide additional seasonal interest. He has designed 24 ponds, 32 bridge crossings and 19 waterfalls. The numerous garden rooms are planted with hundreds of varieties of plants and are carved into pockets surrounded by acres of deciduous trees that provide spectacular Fall color.

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The house is a mix of European architecture. The north view is reminiscent of an English manor house with palladium windows and doors. An archway connects the summer house which overlooks the gardens and in the near distance, the north Georgia mountains. Architectural accents were purchased in Europe prior to building and used throughout the house, including a twelve foot 14th century French limestone fireplace, 17th century French interior doors and 18th century French beveled and leaded glass doors and windows. Antique heart pine and herringbone brick floors blend nicely with the iron staircase railing and European antique furnishings.

Yoshino and Kwanzan cherry trees blossom in spring as weeping willows reflect in the water. Collections of stone Japanese lanterns, natural stones and Japanese maples provide sculptural interest. Pagoda structures and a zigzag bridge add architectural interest. Reflections of clouds, waterfalls, ripples, butterflies, birds, and fish provide movement in the garden. Impressive stones speak of stillness and serenity. The gardens are composed of 16 gardens including 3 feature gardens – Manor House Gardens, Japanese and Waterlily Gardens.

The grounds around the Manor House were started in 1980 and planted with 20 to 30 year old plants and trees to provide instant age and character. Large Japanese maples, American hollies and willow oaks were planted closer to the house with vines accenting the corners.

Five ponds showcase over 140 varieties of Waterlilies in their natural environment. Each pond originates from the flow of underground springs. No artificial liners or concrete were needed for construction, creating the largest natural display of Waterlilies in the nation.

The home site is one of the highest crests in northeast Cherokee County, Georgia, capturing a beautiful view of the north Georgia mountains. The house was placed 150 feet above the water gardens and 30 feet below the crest capturing the air currents to flow through the summer house.

These selected varieties of varying size, shape and color are from world-renowned hybridizers. Meandering paths follow each of the Waterlily Gardens resembling radiating waves of a pebble tossed in a still pond.

Japanese Garden The Japanese hill and pond stroll garden, "Tsukiyama," is over 40 acres and the largest in the nation. Entered through a Torii Gate, a meandering walk descends subtly around seven spring-fed ponds with islands, bridges, massive boulders and rocks. Connecting an island to the shore with a natural stone bridge created the "Bridge to Heaven." Millions of existing ferns, native azalea, dogwood, mountain laurel, trilliums and wildflowers accompany masses of plantings including many 50 to 60 year-old plants used to bonsai. June 2013

More Waterlily Gardens include wooden bridges, a covered bridge, a natural rock bridge, islands, waterfalls, a Japanese pagoda viewing deck and numerous benches. Japanese maples, thousands of daffodils, and more, reflect multiple seasons of interest in the Waterlily Gardens. ď ś

There are many beautiful gardens throughout the USA and Internationally. Remember to include them in your travels, be it 5 miles or thousands. They can make a wonderful stop no matter where you are. Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 21


Koi Photography by Ray Jordan, Texas

his should really be called Koi portrait photography as I am going to give some tips for taking Koi portraits for studying your Koi’s development or to submit to a Koi magazine or a Koi photo contest. I am going to be talking about taking photos of Koi in a tub under controlled conditions. Pond photography of Koi swimming in their pond is a completely different topic that I am still trying hard to learn. There are two key aspects to taking good Koi photos:

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Equipment: camera, filters, flash, tubs etc. Round tubs are a challenge to take Koi photos in.

Technique: photographic tips useful to getting decent Koi portraits CAMERAS: Any good quality digital camera can be utilized. More expensive cameras do not guarantee better photos. Photographic technique and taking lots of shots and a good amount of luck play a large role in how your photos will turn out. For this article I am going to focus on using an automatic compact digital camera that would likely cost about $150 to $250. Here are the key features that are likely standard today but you will definitely need:

Rectangle tubs are easier to use when taking Koi photos.

1) Speed of capture (very important) How long from the time you push the shutter button until the photo is captured. Koi move quickly so you want a fast capture rate. 2) Ability to select a higher ISO setting (1,000+)

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3) Adjustable pixel files sizes from 1MB to 4MB (higher is not needed but nice to have) 4) Large LCD screen that can be seen easily in bright sunlight 5) Built in flash that will recycle quickly. 6) Anti-shake or image stabilizer feature. 7) Big plus is a lens that is threaded in the front to accept a rotating polarizing filter to reduce surface glare. Small compact digital cameras are less expensive and easier to use so I will discuss these types of cameras in this article. A zoom lens is very useful as they allow you to zoom in on a smaller Koi without having to get so close that you spook your subject. Auto focus is a very helpful standard feature but you need to understand its limitations. Red pigment on curved surfaces totally confuses auto focus systems causing out of focus photos. To avoid this, place the focus indicator on the eye of your Koi, or the leading edge of the dorsal fin as your auto focus needs an optical contrast for the auto focus to work properly. Camera Settings: While you can sometimes get good results leaving your camera settings on full automatic there are a few special settings I find very helpful. First set the flash to fire every time. If you leave the flash on auto and the ambient light is bright the camera might not fire the flash. The reason you want the flash on every photo is twofold. First when the flash fires it freezes the action and gives a sharper image which is very helpful when photographing Koi. Second, the flash can help overpower the surface glare that is common when photographing Koi. Next set the camera for the “sport” or the “action” setting to increase the shutter speed, which also helps to freeze any movement and give a sharper image. If your camera allows you to select a ISO reading June 2013

set it to 1,000 to 2,000. This higher ISO setting will increase your shutter speed, which will help sharpen the focus and also increase the light sensitivity and reduce the surface glare. Purchasing a new camera: If you are going to purchase a new digital camera you might want to consider getting one that is waterproof since it is pretty easy to accidently drop your camera in the water. Digital cameras are getting better and cheaper all the time. I suggest you go to a full line camera store to talk to a knowledgeable camera salesperson about how you plan to use your camera so you will be more likely to get the features you want without paying for features you do not care about. FYI, I have a Nikon Coolpix AW100 and it works just fine for my purposes. It is waterproof and can even be used underwater (30 feet or less) and also claims to be shockproof for drops of up to six feet on a hard surface. I know this camera is waterproof because I tried it but I have never tested the shockproof claim - yet. I am not recommending that you buy this camera as there are likely better and cheaper models available now bit it might serve as a example.

Koi Portrait Techniques Now comes the trickier part. Forget trying to get a decent portrait of a Koi in your pond. It just won’t happen. It is very helpful to have an assistant to help you capture, handle, and photograph your Koi. Not only can an assistant net and transfer your Koi into the tub but this helps keep your hands and camera dry and they can also help with positioning the Koi and other equipment. Photo Tub: You need to move your Koi into a tub to get a decent photo. The color and shape of tub is important. Use a medium blue tub as lighter or darker colors affects the Koi and photo color. Rectangular tubs work much better than round as Koi tend to swim around in a circle right next to the edge in round tubs. But if all you have is a Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 23


Portrait shot of the Koi Club of San Diego Grand Champion 2007. There is some glare just before the tail. Overall a very nice portrait. Photo by Tom Graham.

round tub use it, but be prepared to take longer to get a good photo. Water Level: Too shallow water in the tub and the surface will remain disturbed as the Koi Page 24 Mid-Atlantic Koi

swims around and the Koi shape will look deformed. Too much water will allow the Koi to move vertically which makes your task harder. Usually you need to cover their erect dorsal fin by about 1-3 inches of water to get it just right. Also June 2013


too shallow will make the Koi restless and more likely to jump.

to press the shutter when it swims into the right spot.

Tub and Photo Location: Select a location that is level and safe as possible for the Koi and in an area with solid shade if possible. Never leave a tub with a Koi unattended or make sure the tub is securely covered. Avoid sudden movements as this can startle the Koi and cause them to dart around. Slow and calm is what you need.

Pectoral Fins: Pectoral fins are vital components to good photos of Koi. Pectoral fins extended position can make the difference between a good and a poor shot. Shoot when the Koi has extended pectoral fins NOT when they are clamped to its sides or pressed against the side of the tub.

Photo Angle/Position: You want to position yourself directly head on and tilt the camera at about a 60° angle to the water level. Shoot from too low an angle and the Koi’s head appears gigantic and the rest of the body tiny. Shoot from too high an angle and the flash will bounce off the surface of the water and cause a glare that can obscure the Koi. Shoot in portrait/vertical photo position vs landscape/horizontal position. You want the Koi gliding straight at you or even better stopped with a straight body position head on. Do not waste time/shots of the Koi from the side, rear or odd tilted angle. Straight head on is what you want.

Focusing: It is of course vital that your shots are in focus. However, the nature of Koi photography is such that it is virtually impossible to have all parts of the Koi in the same sharp focus. Position your viewfinder focus mark on the eyes; this will ensure that the front three quarters of the Koi are sharp and the tail focus might be slightly softer on large Koi but if you look at photos in magazines this is fairly common.

Framing: Do not zoom in too close. You need the entire Koi in the photo from head to tip of tail. Try to keep the Koi in the center of photo. Another advantage of digital photography is you can view photos as you take them and also use photo software to crop or rotate your photos to produce the desired head on position. Try to have the Koi in the center of the tank when you take the photo and not hugging the sides or with its nose in the corner. It is important that the photo capture the entire Koi. The pectoral fins should be extended in a normal relaxed swimming position and not clamped to its sides or twisted/reversed as the Koi back strokes out of the frame. Patience: This is the hardest part for me. It is vital that you have patience and wait until the Koi is in the right position and don't try and chase it around the tub. Anticipate and be ready June 2013

Light: The control of lighting is also important. Although Koi always look best in daylight, they DO NOT photograph best in daylight. The best results are obtained by flash photography, and the less natural light present the better the resulting photo. Glare: Glare is probably the Koi photographers' single biggest enemy, and Koi photographers go to great lengths to eliminate it. While polarizing filters are fine for surface glare and invaluable for shooting ponds with Koi on bright days, they will not remove enough glare for quality Koi photography attempted in daylight. The solution is to remove the glare by shading the Koi and tank containing it as completely as possible. Utilize shades/blackouts or even better photograph indoors where no bright light is shining on the tank water In other words, take your photos in semi-darkness! Keep it Simple: Close head shots and clever angles can be very dramatic but good shots are very difficult to get and you will waste lots of time and film trying. Concentrate on refining Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 25


In Memoriam

your basic techniques as you will find this much more likely to get you the shot you want. Take Lots of Shots: Fish photography is one of the most difficult of all photographic challenges. There is no easy quick method short of just getting lucky sometimes. If you follow the above advice and take lots of shots you will start to develop a successful style that will provide good consistent results. Of the photos you take, a good success rate is only 10% to 20%. So take lots of photos to get a few good shots. Printing Digital Photos: If you want printed photos you should use special photo paper with special photo inks or take your camera/disk to a photo processor to print your final photos. Printing photos on a normal home printer with regular paper creates a very poor image. Golden Rules: The very best Koi photographers are those who get lots of practice. Although being technically competent is helpful, to get the best shots you have to love Koi and understand that you have to be patient with them. The essence of success is in understanding and appreciating their four dimensional form and being able to express it in a two dimensional photographic image. Always remember no photo is worth damaging a Koi. If a Koi is too unhappy and trying to jump out of the tub it is better to put it back in the pond and try again later. Practice may not make your photos perfect but it is great fun and will eventually give you some good Koi photos, so keep trying and enjoy the challenge. 

Susan Hixson usan Hixson died while in Hospice Care at St. Luke’s, Bethlehem. A CT Scan after a fall revealed bleeding in the brain and a lesion. Her wishes were to not prolong life since the 10 months of chemo had made her progressively weaker. Tests revealed the tumors were increasing in size. She no longer had quality of life.

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We know that she is at peace with the Lord and is now pain free. As per Susan's request, any donations should be sent to St. John’s Lutheran Church 206 E. Main St Bath, PA 18014 and her beloved nokill cat rescue group: Itty Bitty Kitty, P.O. Box 90628, Allentown, PA 18109. She will be remembered as a MAKC member; she is now in eternal peace.

Susan and Barry Hixson’s four loving cats.

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Big Koi Caper – Part 2 by Carolyn Weise, Florida

ack of a quarantine tank was the dilemma holding up any work on my pond. The pond leak continued to increase. I now had to refill twice weekly and could not keep a level that allowed the use of a skimmer.

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The decision was made to convert my beautiful, 17,000 gallon free-form swimming pool and Jacuzzi into a Koi pond. Ouch. Okay, I will find friends with pools this summer, if I have to. Or I can stay inside in the air-conditioning, or sit in a bath tub, but the pool goes to the Koi. Once the decision was made, the rest was fairly easy. I hadn’t added any chlorine or algaecides to the pool since early last September. No chemicals at all have been added to either the pool or Jacuzzi.

Ah, the sacrifices we make for our Koi. My 17,000 gallon beautiful pool was turned into a quarantine pond.

June 2013

A water sample was taken to the local pool supply store. It came back needing virtually “everything” in the way of chemicals, but the pH and alkalinity looked great, same as my Koi pond. The water was still clear with only a little green growth along the bottom and sides, the stuff they call “mustard algae”. I hoped it would be okay for the fish.

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 27


Remember this all started because my Koi pond developed many leaks!

The weekend before leaving for the Central Florida Koi Show (on Sunday, March 3rd) I caught the longfin gin rin Hi Utsuri (a fish I promised to a newlywed couple last year who still hadn’t come to pick her up) and released her into the swimming pool. She became my “test” fish. She went right to the bottom, disoriented, but unharmed. She wasn’t what I’d call “happy” but she didn’t suffer any ill effects in the pool. There were no other fish, so she just explored a bit and remained near the bottom, here and there. I figured if she can make it, the others can, too. I added Microbe-Lift/PL and Nite Out II. I was trying to get the pool safe for fish and wanedt it cycled. Swimming pools do not have adequate filter systems. In fact, they do not have filters, just a flimsy thing to catch bugs or hair and pull it out. I realized I needed much more to make this Page 28 Mid-Atlantic Koi

work! I went to the CFKS with a plan in mind. I shopped for plants. So, upon return home, the Jacuzzi was planted. I also added the NEW KOI! I’d named her “Baby Girl”. She certainly made all the difference to the Hi Utsuri who became totally animated when another fish was added to the “pond” pool. A day later they eagerly responded to my offer of food. Very quickly, the pond turned from clear to green and kept getting darker until the fish were obscured. Within a week, the fish weren’t eating as enthusiastically. The beautiful water lilies promptly died (omg) but the grasses were doing fine. I suspected pH might be too high for the lilies or these two fish had filled the pond with enough ammonia to make a high pH toxic.

June 2013


I took a water sample to the lab at work. Wow, the results were not encouraging. The pH was 8.89 (about what my pond normally is), Ammonia .12 ppm, TDS 1020 (algae), Nitrite 4.0 ppm, Nitrate 18.9 ppm and Total Alkalinity 85 (?). Phosphate was only 0.03 ppm. Now, I attribute the very low phosphate to the algae bloom, so that makes sense. But how do you raise KH to get the nitrites down? I decided to expand the filtration with bio-balls (2,000 of them!), PL and lots more Nite Out II. I added 2 media bags filled with Sphagnum Moss, floating from the side of the pond, to lower pH naturally and added 20 lbs of Barley Straw Pellets.

Baby Girl getting ready to swim into the quarantine “pond pool.”

June 2013

I didn’t have to re-test. The fish perked right up! That was proof enough for me that the water was once again safe for the inhabitants. 

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Koi Food Storage by Ken Austin, Certified Koi Keeper - Koi Organisation International oi foods can be affected by mold or bacteria, which will limit the time the food is safe to feed to your fish. Most Koi foods have preservatives and formulations to mitigate this problem, such as:

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• Low percentages of oils and fats reduce likelihood of rancidity, a decomposition of oils and fats that produces foul odor and taste. • Increased levels of Vitamins E and C act as antioxidants and keep the oils and fats fresher longer. • Calcium or Sodium Propionate can be added to formulation and these chemicals act as a mold inhibitor. Molds excrete a toxin that can be toxic to fish. How you store your Koi food can also be an effective way to reduce mold and bacteria. • Oils need oxygen to oxidize, so keeping Koi food stored in a sealed container reduces the decomposition rate. A sealed container also keeps insects out.

Koi food that is placed in a freezer is OK. However, once it is thawed it should be used within a day or two. Moisture crystals form on the inside of the pellet and when thawed this is as bad as the pellet getting wet. The same thing happens in a refrigerator over time. Freezing or refrigeration of Koi food should be considered only in climates where temperature and moisture levels are high. Keep Koi food bags off of concrete floors. Moisture will wick-up (also known as capillary action) through the concrete and into the bag. If this problem is not corrected, eventually contamination spreads through the bag. Moistened Koi food creates problems in addition to bacteria or mold. If the pellets are soaked for a long period of time before putting them in the pond, they are likely to sink before the Koi have a

Sample Food Storage Containers

• Bacteria thrive in warm moist environments, so keeping Koi food stored in a dry, cool location reduces bacteria activity. • If Koi food is bought in bulk and is not used within a month then it is a good idea to get one of these mini machines that vacuum pack food and pack the bulk bag down into smaller quantities. Page 30 Mid-Atlantic Koi

June 2013


chance to eat them. The pellets will then decompose and add to the load on the filter and cloud the water. Also, vitamins are water-soluble and the pellets can lose some of their nutritional value the longer they are wet. By smelling the food you can establish with some degree of certainty whether the food is fresh or not. If the Koi food has a warm fishmeal smell it is fresh. However, if the food does not have any smell at all – the food is old. Old food should be viewed as suspect. If you smell the food and it has a smell something like paint thinners then the food is becoming rancid and should be discard immediately. 

Saugerties Chapter Report We Are Off to a Great Start! by Herb Ehrich, New York he first 2013 meeting of the Saugerties Chapter was held at Inquiring Minds Bookstore on Sunday, April 21.

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At this meeting we welcomed a new member, Jo Mead. Ms. Mead heard about us when she attended the Winter Event at Adams Fairacre Farms. We are excited to have her join the Club and our Chapter as she brings with her a valuable knowledge of using a microscope. With the aid of her vet, she has learned to recognize certain diseases and has experience injecting sick fish. Each of our members has a certain expertise in the world of Koi keeping and is always willing to share their knowledge with others. That is what makes our meetings so interesting. There will not be any meeting in May since we are hoping that our members will make the worthwhile trip to Freeport, LI to hear Mr. Saito from Shintaro make his presentation. Our next meeting will be on June 9. 

MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers Tom Burton Jan & Bill Fogle Floyd Broussard Terri Janas Jeff Nicholson

Middletown, NJ Wayne, PA Woodbridge, VA Ashburn, VA Odenton, MD

732-671-7045 610-687-3105 703-491-4921 703-729-2988 301-912-1928

All members have microscopes and health books. In the event of a recorded message, please suggest a time when you're home to receive a return call or when you'd like to call back. Please remember that advice is given based on your input–the ultimate responsibility and treatment must remain with you.

June 2013

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Feeding Your Koi by Ray Jordan, Texas

Note from the Editor: There were several questions asked about feeding Koi from the last issue. It was requested that we re-run Ray Jordan’s article that addressed ‘how much to feed.’ The following is an except from Ray’s article that was in the October 2012 issue. The complete title of the article was “You Might be Over Feeding Your Koi or Goldfish if?”

Q – How much and how often should you feed

weight of fish in your pond. Fish are coldblooded creatures and cannot digest food well once pond water drops and stays much below 50°F. In colder winter months Koi and Goldfish in outside ponds become dormant. Yes, they will eat if fed but the food mostly passes through them and then pollutes the water and your filter system without doing your fish much good. In fact, your biological filter is mostly inactive below 50°F so any ammonia and waste produced by the undigested food cannot be processed by your filter system. If ammonia or nitrite levels go high enough it can easily stress or even kill your fish.

your Koi & Goldfish?

A – Short Answer: Feed less total food per day and give more frequent feedings. Long-Long Answer: Everyone I know feeds his or her fish too much! I do it and so do you. Koi and Goldfish feeding should be based on a combination of water temperature and total

Here is the feeding schedule I try to use. Use average weekly water temperature. Optimum water temperature is about 72–76°F for Koi and 75–80°F for Goldfish. • Below 50°F –do not feed • Start feeding in spring as water warms and stays above 50°F. For first few weeks feed only every few days and very sparingly, maybe 2-3 pellets per fish. Try to feed in late afternoon when water is warmest and fish will be better able to digest. • 55°F to 60°F - Slowly increase feeding to every other day and finally to every day near 60°F. Feed about 0.5% of fish weight. • 60°F–70°F –increase feed to 1% at 65°F and 1.5% to 2% of total fish weight at 70°F. Best to split into 2-3 daily feedings • 70°F–80°F - feed 2% to 3% of total fish weight divided into 2-3 feedings.

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• 80°F–90°F - reduce feeding from 2% down to 1% of total fish weight divided into 2-3 feedings

logarithmically as the length increases. For example almost 50% of the total fish weight is the three 22˝ fish.

• 90°F–100°F –do not feed or just feed a tiny bit every few days early in morning when cooler

With some fish foods such as Tetra Koi sticks almost all the moisture is removed so the food is very light weight. The calculation suggested above would not work with that type of food. In practice this chart and formula is just a starting point. You should look to your fish to tell you if they are getting the right nutrition. Healthy fish will have bright colors, and a very bright shiny white color. Their skin will almost glow and they will be very active and feed vigorously. Look to the clues listed in the beginning of this article for problems that suggest over-feeding or poor nutrition. A hungry fish is a healthy fish.

According to this formula if you had 35 lbs. of fish in your pond (that’s a lot of fish folks – about 44 twelve inch Koi) and the water temperature is 75°F you could feed up to 1lb of food a day divided into 2–3 feedings. Remember this is the optimum water temperature and in S. Texas you might only feed at this rate for 3–4 weeks in the spring and maybe about the same in the fall. But how do you find out how much your fish weigh? Well you could guess or you could put one of average size in a plastic bag and sneak into the grocery store and.... Or you can estimate each of your fishes length in inches and use the following chart to calculate each fish's weight and then add up the weight of all your fish.

I feed the amount of food I use by volume. For example, at optimum water temperature I feed my Koi about 2 cups of food a day divided into 2–3 feedings. This weighs about 3/4 of a lb. We have a 100-gallon aquarium with 5 small Orandas. I feed 1/2 teaspoon of Goldfish food daily divided into several feedings. 

There is some pretty interesting information in the chart. Notice how the weight of fish increases

*Estimate based on length of “average” Koi. Adjust for fatter or skinnier Koi. With Long Fin Koi and goldfish I would not include tails in the length estimates. June 2013

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On the Road to a Koi Event May 31–June 2 Tri-State ZNA Koi Club Pond and Water Garden Show Freeport, Long Island Contact: Philip Gray, 516-967-4966 philiegray@mac.com www.TristateZNAKoiClub.com

June 8–9 Oregon Koi and Watergarden Society Koi and Watergarden Show Roseburg, Oregon. Contact Randy & Kim Brock 541-679-7185 or email thebrocks@live.com www.oregonkoiandwatergardensociety.com

July 5–6 PNKCA 29 Annual Convention Pacific Northwest Koi Clubs Association Convention to be held in Tacoma, Washington. Witha possible wet lab on July 7th. Check their website for the most recent information. www.pnkca.com

July 12–14 Midwest Pond & Koi Society Annual Koi Show (MKPS) www.mpks.org.

July 20 3rd Inland Northwest Koi Show North Idaho Koi Keepers/Inland Empire Water Garden & Koi Society Spokane, Washington website: www.northidahokoikeepers.com or Contact John Seifert spokanekoi@comcast.net www.iewgks.com

August 30–September 1 MKPC’s Second Koi Show/Ikona Koi Show Held at The Pond Place in Milford, Michigan. www.mkpc-se.com Page 34 Mid-Atlantic Koi

September 6–8 ZNA Potomac Koi Club’s 20th Annual Show See www.znapotomac.org.

September 7-8 Washington Koi & Water Garden Society 22nd Annual Koi Show Bothell, Washington. Contact Nancy Moore at showchair@washingtonkoi.org www.washingtonkoi.org

September 14 Idaho Water Garden & Koi Society 20th Annual Koi Club Held at the Idaho Botanical Garden, Boise, Idaho Contact Sot Chimonas 208-286-0288 sotchimonas@msn.com or Bob Dethman 208-9396064 porsche@centurylink.net www.iwgks.org

September 20–22 Carolina Classic Koi Show Hosted by the North Carolina Koi and Watergarden Society. This will be their 5th Annual Show. http://www.nckws.net

September 27–29 Mid-Atlantic Koi Club Koi Show Held at Kodama Koi Garden at Waterford Gardens in Saddle River, NJ www.makc.com Have an upcoming Koi event, please send the information to makcmag@makc.com. We will be glad to include it in future articles. Don’t forget your own MAKC Club has events coming up that can be found in our digital magazine or at www.makc.com. We always need volunteers for meetings and shows. We hope to see more of you visiting shows, attending club meetings, and volunteering to help at Koi events this year. It is amazing how much you can learn by helping. Take advantage of being an MAKC member and participate in the club events. See you soon at a Koi event.  June 2013


Mid-Atlantic Koi Show

Held at – Kodama Koi Garden at Waterford Gardens 74 East Allendale Rd. Saddle River, NJ 07458

September 27 - 29 Mark your Calendars! June 2013

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 35


M A KC E v e n t s MAKC Upcoming All Chapter Events Annual MAKC Meeting Sunday, June 9 Held at Steve and Nancy Borakowski 15 Whitetail Lane Commack, NY 11725 631-499-0363 sborakowski@optonline.net Our Annual MAKC meeting will be held this month. We will vote for our MAKC officers. Steve Borakowski will educate us on “Shade Sails.” He will talk about their importance for a Koi Pond and how to install them., and the Agenda for the meeting will include: • 12 to 1 Club business • Lunch 1:30:pm If you want to add any items to the Agenda, please email them to me at Suggestions4MAKC@gmail.com. 

Long Island Chapter Meeting Sunday, July 21 Pond Tour – let me know if you would like us to visit your pond

Sunday, August 18 BBQ - let us know if you are interested in hosting this event. Contact Bruce Levine if you have questions bruce@li-koi.com • Cell: 516-477-1823 

BBQ and Multi-Club Auction August 18 Auction of 30 Goshiki tosai, 15 ginrin and 15 non-ginrin. Please look for for additional information in the next coming weeks. 

MAKC Koi Show September 27 – 29 Held at Kodama Koi Farm at Waterford Gardens 74 East Allendale Road Saddle River, New Jersey 

www.makc.com

Send your meeting and event information to Joyce Spears 856-478-2952 or gjs63@comcast.net. Deadline June 1st for the July 2013 issue. Page 36 Mid-Atlantic Koi

June 2013


Sunshine Column Cindy Graham had a basal cell skin cancer removed. Skin cancer is very common; please be sure to have it taken care of! We will ask for Cindy to get well soon! Know someone to list in our Sunshine Column – Email Carolyn Weise, Editor makcmag@makc.com 

Treasurer’s Report Submitted by Carolyn Broussard, Virginia Balance as of January 7, 2013 Income: Memberships Advertising Total Income

$23,091.08

45.00 425.00 $470.00

Expenses: Magazine Production (3 issues – Jan/Feb, Mar, & Apr 2,400.00 Credit Card Fees 202.88 Host Fees & Mtg Exp 67.34 Total Expenses $2,670.22 Balance as of March 31, 2013

$23,091.08

Reserve Account/Prepaid Memberships

Need to Change Your email or Home Address? Have Questions about your Membership Status? Contact:

Barry Hixson 5465 Towanda Dr. Bethlehem, PA 18017 610-262-5184 or makcmembers@verizon.net Renew Your MAKC Membership Online with a credit card?

Go to Credit Card Payments at www.makc.com June 2013

Balance as of September 30, 2012 $6,323.35 Interest Income 0.32 Balance as of December 31, 2012 $6,323.67 Summary of Income & Expense Young Koi Show 2012 Refunds/Expenses due to date change of 2012 Koi Show $-946.45 December 15, 2012 YTD Income $3,146.75 December 15, 2012 YTD Expense $-2,658.25 Net YTD Income (Expense) Not Final $ 488.50 

MAKC Koi Show September 27–29 Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 37


F..A..S..T.. Ads – June Disclaimer: MAKC and its officers assume no responsibility for claims of advertisers or the quality/serviceability of goods offered.

QUALITY SHOW KOI. Show quality Koi for sale. Need to thin out my pond contact philiegray@mac.com

MAKC Member Needs Your Help

WANTED

LOVING CATS TO GOOD HOMES . Passing of spouse forces me to find homes for both inside and outside cats. All neutered. Phone 973-390-6490 with what you are looking for and we can match you with your new best friend.

KOI. Foster Home. Large natural pond. Happy to accept your overgrown or unwanted “children.” Call Rich Menashe in Metuchen, NJ, 732-767-0720.

FOR SALE Remember any MAKC member can list their Koi, pond, or related items for sale here in your magazine at no charge. Please contact Ellie today if you have something for sale. BAMBOO. Winter hardy and tropical for indoors. Thinning collection. Reasonable prices. Call Ron Altman, NY 718-442-1673 (Office) or 908-658-3055 (H).

F..A..S..T.. Ads Policy & Deadlines F..A..S..T.. Ads are available FREE to MAKC members only; no commercial ads. Ads are limited to 10 items and must include name, phone number, town and state. Deadline is the 1st of each month. Help do you have an hour or two? We need a volunteer to manage this page. Please contact

Philip Gray • 516-486-5163 philiegray@mac.com

Page 38 Mid-Atlantic Koi

KOI. Wanted Healthy Pond Grade KOI over 10˝. Will pay reasonable prices. I have a 750,000 gallon pond and will adopt any unwanted KOI. Call Joseph Pollock in Virginia at 540-788-9222. KOI. Wanted for large deep natural pond next to soon to be built wine tasting room in wine country of Northern Virginia. Happy to accept any and all Koi of any size and color. Stop by and visit them next year when our tasting room opens. Call Mark Malick in Purcellville, VA, 540-270-3399 (cell). KOI BITO MAGAZINES – in good condition. Send list with asking price, or call Roger Klocke 701-491-2803, E-mail at rklockejr@aol.com. Mailing address: Roger Klocke, 4805 Meadow Creek Dr., Fargo, ND 58104. KOI STORE EMPLOYEE. Looking for a knowledgeable Koi and pond hobbyist. Part-time, competitive pay. Outstanding employee discounts! Call John at Blue Ribbon Koi Products. 703-753-7566. MAKC CENTRAL CHAPTER VICEPRESIDENT. Schedule 4 to 12 meetings per year. This includes making sure that the meeting announcement is submitted to the magazine and the MAKC website. Plenty of advice and support June 2013


are available. Your "compensation" .... knowing that you have given back to MAKC and your fellow members. Please don't wait for someone else to step forward! MAKC is a membership organization. If more than one person is interested, you can share the fun! E-mail Philip Gray at philiegray@mac.com or call 516-486-5163. 

Mid-Atlantic Koi Ad Index Aquaculture Bead Filter Specialists . . . . . . .7, 29

Time to Renew Your Membership! Be sure to check our club website for the most current meeting information and more. Also check the MAKC Online Sales Store. Did you know you can buy a Goldfish Guide?

www.makc.com

Aquatic Nutrition – Blackwater Gold–N . . . . . . .10 Hikari . . . . . . . . . .7, Back Cover

Matala USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Mazuri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Microbe-Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Nisei Koi Farm . . . . . . . . . .7, 11 Pentair Aquatic

Kloubec Koi Farm . . . . . . . . .26

Eco-Systems, Inc. . . . . . . . .31

Kodama Koi Farm . . . . . . . .5, 7

Quality Koi Company . . . .7, 11

Long Island Fish Hospital . . .36

Advertise in Mid-Atlantic Koi! Ad Rates from $15/issue* for a business card ad to $300/issue* for a full page color ad. Reach your target audience of Koi keepers & water gardeners each month and leave your competition in the dust!! Contact Philip Gray at 516-486-5163 (leave message) or e-mail: philiegray@mac.com to request information on our advertiser packages and/or a copy of our ad rate sheet. *With an annual 10 issue contract.

June 2013

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 39


A Picture to Share

“My Pond,” said the Koi to the bullfrog! Photo shared by MAKC member Craig Solomon, Scranton area, Pennsylvania. Have a picture to share? Send your photos to the Editor, Carolyn Weise at makcmag@makc.com.  Page 40 Mid-Atlantic Koi

June 2013


MAKC Membership Application

W

e are pleased that you have inquired about membership in the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. The club meets monthly at convenient regional locations in the Mid-Atlantic area and also publishes an informative monthly magazine (bi-monthly in Nov/Dec & Jan/Feb).

Our dues are $30 per year, per family (includes $15.00 for a one-year subscription to Mid-Atlantic Koi Online Magazine). The club year runs June 1st through May 31st of the following year. (Dues are pro-rated per month. Those who join in January or after are also asked to join for the following year.) Join for 4 years for $100 and save - $20. Overseas Membership - $40 per year. Corporate Membership $275 per year which includes advertising and other benefits. Call Barry Hixson at 610-262-5184 or e-mail: makcmembers@verizon.net for details. Please consult the following chart for the proper amount and send your check (payable to the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club) to me, Barry Hixon, 5465 Towanda Dr., Bethlehem, PA 18017. Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

June

July

Aug

Sept

Oct

Nov

Dec

$42.50

$40

$37.50

$35

$32.50

$30

$27.50

$25

$22.50

$20

$17.50

$15

As soon as I receive your check, I will send you a "Welcome to MAKC" email and a list of upcoming meetings in your area. You will also be given the date of your membership expiration. Your email will be added to our MAKC Notice Group to allow you to receive MAKC news and up-to-date information. A great source of information is our MAKC website: www.makc.com. The MAKC membership list may be made available (upon approval by the MAKC Executive Committee) for the dissemination of Koi-related information.

Welcome to MAKC! I sincerely believe you will enjoy it as much as we all do. Barry Hixson Membership Committee Mid-Atlantic Koi Club

PLEASE PRINT (You may omit any information that may be sensitive such as unlisted phone numbers or email accounts.) LAST NAME ________________________ FIRST NAME(S) _________________________ (If Applicable) CORPORATE MEMBERSHIP NAME: ______________________________________ ADDRESS ______________________________ CITY__________________ STATE _____ ZIP______ TELEPHONE ______________________ E-MAIL ________________________________ OCCUPATION(S)______________________ Do you have a pond?____ Dimensions____________ Gallons________ Type filter________________ Do you keep Koi or Goldfish?__________ Type______________ Size___________ How Many? ______ Are there any Koi related problems you need help with?_________ If so, what kind?_______________ ______________________________________________________________________________ Do you have special talents, knowledge or interest you would be willing to share with us? _________ If so, what kind? __________________________________________________________________ Would you be willing to have a Koi Club meeting at your home? _______________________________ SIGNATURE ____________________________ DATE ____________ AMOUNT PAID ___________ June 2013

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 41



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