Mid~Atlantic Koi The Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club
Koi Health
Beginners Mistake
April 2014
Big Fish Challenge
Mid~Atlantic Koi The Membership Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club
Volume 27, Number 8
April 2014
—Upcoming Event Saugerties Chapter Meeting . . . . . . .29
Beginner’s Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 MAKC Corporate Members . . . . . . . . . . .7
—MAKC News
Foamy, Stinky Ponds in the Spring . . . .8
From the Editor’s Desk . . . . . .6 MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers . . . . . . . .19 Sunshine Column . . . . . . . . .28 Treasurer’s Report . . . . . . . . .28 F..A..S..T Ads . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Ad Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Don Harrawood, SKAPA, KHA
The Big Fish Challenge . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Conrad Kleinholz, PhD, Kleinholz Koi Farm
Health Care Part 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Ben Plonski, California
Why You Don’t Want Your Koi to Get Koi Herpes Virus . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Sally Karo, KHA, CKK
Mid-Atlantic Koi Deadlines for articles, meeting announcements and ads May Issue Deadline: Available Online:
April 1 May 1
June Issue Deadline: Available Online:
June 1 July 1
Your Koi are What They Eat . . . . . . . . .20 Gregory A. Lewbart, MS, VMD, DACZM
The Beginner’s First Mistake . . . . . . . . .24 Ed Keene, DSAS, Delaware
Koi Keeper vs. Heron: The Final Solution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 James Damis, Cascade Koi & Goldfish Club
On the Road to a Koi Event . . . . . . . . . . .29 Big Fish Challenage Photo by Conrad Kleinholz
Page 2 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Picture to Share . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 MAKC Membership Application . . . . .33
April 2014
MAKC Executive Committee President Philip Gray
(516) 486-5163
philiegray@mac.com
Cell (516) 967-4966 Vice-President Looking for a Volunteer Secretary Dinah Bwint
(610) 287-9178
Anthony Vitale
(516) 420-0740
sanke@verizon.net
Treasurer nyssba96@aol.com
Remember to Renew Your Membership
Central Chapter Vice-President Looking for a Volunteer Long Island Chapter Vice-President Bruce Levine
(516) 735-2644
bruce@li-koi.com
North Chapter Vice-President Dan Bitcon
(973) 699-2186
DanVideo@aol.com
Saugerties (NY) Chapter Vice-President Herb Ehrich
(845) 247-7105
koiking15@yahoo.com
South Chapter Vice-President Chuk Nixon
(301) 717-7702
chuknixon@aol.com
S ta n din g Committe es Membership Barry Hixson
(610) 262-5184 makcmembers@verizon.net AKCA Representative
Philip Gray
(516) 486-3807
philiegray@mac.com
MAKC Sales Ruth & Gene Rice
(304) 725-2333
sew4Koi@comcast.net
Don’t Wait – Do it Today.
MAKC Notice Group Manager Michael Snyder
(301) 762-2059
makc@imsnyder.com
WebMaster Looking for a Volunteer
Exe c ut ive B o ard Adv is or y Committe e Joe Zuritsky
Renewal form you can print out is on page 33.
(215) 575-4001 jzuritsky@parkwaycorp.com
Betty Roemer
(828) 697-2692
roroemer@mchsi.com
Art Lembke
(410) 867-0270
artsKoi1@aol.com
Mike Riordan
(732) 747-6089
Koidog1@verizon.net
Gene Rice
(304) 725-2333
RiceGene@comcast.net
Eric Wilson
(613) 421-7890
wilseric@rogers.com
Ellie Cooper
(610) 865-1163
mamakoi@verizon.net
Mid-Atlantic Koi Magazine Editor, Carolyn Weise
(239) 573-6650 x105
Advertising Editor, Philip Gray
(516) 486-5163
makcmag@makc.com philiegray@mac.com
Meeting/Events Editor, Carolyn Weise (239) 573-6650 x105 makcmag@makc.com FAST Ads Editor, Philip Gray
(516) 486-5163
philiegray@mac.com
Ja p a n es e Cul tur a l Adv is er Misa Sitterly
(703) 490-0770
sitterly@comcast.net
MAKC Home Page: http://www.makc.com
Production: Cindy Graham, NextUp Creations
April 2014
Mid-Atlantic Koi is the magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. Material is selected for its interest to Koi keepers. MAKC accepts no responsibility for accuracy of content. Reproduction of uncopyrighted articles is permitted as long as this magazine is credited as the source. Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 3
Kumonryu Photos by Joe Pawlak, Blackwater Creek Koi Farms, Inc. Page 4 Mid-Atlantic Koi
April 2014
Beginner’s Corner Ask a question and we will get you an answer.
Question HELP! My pond is frozen solid, are my fish alright???
Answer Len, if the pond is honestly frozen from the surface to the bottom, then the fish cannot survive. However, most ponds do not freeze "solid" except for few inches on the surface. Find out the frost line in your area from a local garden shop or cooperative extension to see how likely it is the pond would be completely frozen. If it is not, then get a floating decider capable of
April 2014
thawing an area of the surface sufficient for gas exchange. The fish should be alright in that case. Note: This column offers suggestions only; the ultimate care of your pond and fish is up to you.
Wanted – Your Questions Please email your questions to makcmag@makc.com. We look forward to hearing from you!
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 5
From the Editor’s Desk by Carolyn Weise makcmag@makc.com
Hi, I just returned from the Central Florida Koi Show where I spent the weekend watching our club president judging Koi! There was a judging seminar at this show and many enthusiastic hobbyists, some just getting ready to install their first ponds. Do you remember your first pond? The passion is contagious. MAKC is ready to enter a new phase of life by joining forces with the up-and-coming Koi Society that has sprung up in the past couple of years. It does not take the place of AKCA. Koi Society is another resource for Koi lovers and pond lovers (and yes, goldfish lovers!) The website is www.koisociety.com and I hope you will join me in taking a good look at what’s going
on over there because we are going to be part of it. This is exciting for MAKC! In this issue, we have articles which are special for spring and things which are not simply repetitive but new information to make water gardening and Koi keeping the rewarding pleasure it was meant to be. Check out the Health Care (Part 2) by Ben Plonski and a serious look at what KHV means to your life, should it happen to your pond, by Sally Karo. We still do not have an affordable, easy to use preventative for KHV and it’s still out there, killing fish. Oh, and when you shop for fish food this spring, you should see the“Your Koi are What They Eat” by Gregory A. Lewbart, MS, VMD, DACZM (courtesy of Washington Koi & Water Garden Society). Take advantage of our other columns: Beginners Corner, Sunshine Column, Fast Ads, and the Meetings announcements. Thanks to all who contributed to this issue. Yours in Koi! Carolyn
MAKC President Philip Gray spotted judging at the San Diego Koi Show 2014. Page 6 Mid-Atlantic Koi
April 2014
M A KC
Corporate
Members
www.mazuri.com
Quality Koi Company Nisei Koi Farm 856-299-7564 info@qualitykoi.com
www.qualitykoi.com
Interested in becoming a Corporate Member?
East Coast – Patio Ponds, LTD 301-874-8440 West Coast – Laguna Koi Ponds 949-494-5107
www.MatalaUSA.com April 2014
Reasonable one time fee for the year – includes a Business Card size ad in all issues in this section and on the MAKC website. Contact Barry Hixson at 610-262-5184 or makcmembers@verizon.net Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 7
Foamy, Stinky Ponds in the Spring by Don Harrawood, SKAPA, KHA
Prior to the spawning one may notice several Koi chasing another Koi throughout the pond. The one being chased is a female that is ready to lay her eggs. The chasers are males and occasionally a female will join in the chase. The males will sometimes bump the female and force her against the wall of the pond or against a hard surface in order to induce her to lay her eggs. The spawning process often times gets very violent.
Reprinted from the Washington Koi & Water Garden Society
The female will generally find a plant or some other protective area in which to deposit her eggs. When the eggs are deposited, the male Koi will spray them with milt, which fertilizes the eggs. These deposits of eggs and milt causes foam on the water surface, a discoloration of the water, and a very strong fishy odor. This process also greatly increases the ammonia level in the pond
n the spring, several pond owners may find that their pond water is all of a sudden very foamy, the water is discolored, and the pond stinks to high heaven. Most will find that their ammonia level went off the chart. Unaware to the pond owners, their fish could have been spawning.
I
Koi generally spawn in early spring during the months of March through June; however, they may spawn anytime during the year. Often times occurrences such as a water change, back washing a pressure filter, or a spring rain will initiate a spawn. Most any small change in the pond during this period could spark the spawn. Page 8 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Fish Eggs April 2014
Spawning in the Charbonneau tank at the Oregon Koi & Watergarden Society Show. While unexpected and odiferous, it did not keep the female Koi “Picasso� from winning Grand Champion.
water. Water changes may be called for if the biological filtration is not adequate enough to dispose of the added ammonia. An immediate testing for ammonia is recommended, since a high concentration of this chemical may result in high stress or death of Koi. Immediately after the spawn, the other Koi will start devouring all the eggs that they can find. These eggs are food for them to enjoy. The eggs are covered with a sticky substance and will attach to any solid surface they touch. Eggs that April 2014
are attached inside plant growth and hidden out of sight of the other Koi have a reasonable chance to hatch. Hatch time is determined by water temperature, and generally is about 5 days. After hatching, there is still danger the hatched fry will be eaten by the adult Koi. Koi will eat their young until they get a certain size. It is thought that when the fry start getting some color on their bodies, the other Koi will no longer bother them. This takes several weeks of survival. ď ś Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 9
The Big Fish Challenge Transitioning from Water Gardens to Koi Ponds by Conrad Kleinholz, PhD, Kleinholz Koi Farm don’t build or sell equipment for the pond trade. I am one of the people who raise the fish for which the ponds are built. During the last decade, I have seen a steady decline in demand for Goldfish with a concurrent increase in demand for Koi. That reality changes everything we think we know about water gardens. Only a few of us have the resources to have grand champion Koi, but almost all of us can maintain truly beautiful fish. All it takes is a few changes in the way we design and operate our ponds. Koi are big fish and they need a completely different environment than Goldfish to thrive.
I
Page 10 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Getting Started For the best results, Koi ponds should be at least three feet deep. While Goldfish can do well in shallow ponds that receive little or no added food, Koi in such an environment lose luster and body condition. But, when Koi get sufficient food for optimum appearance, the waste load overwhelms most water garden filter systems. Koi need deeper water and more filtration than Goldfish. Most of the Goldfish in water gardens are less than eight inches long and weigh two to four ounces. Water garden Koi, on the other hand, are often between 15 and 20 inches long and weigh two to five pounds.
April 2014
This article contains recommendations to water gardeners for adapting filtration systems in existing ponds to accommodate the rising popularity of Koi. My recommendations are based on my research on filter systems for ornamental ponds at Langston University and on the bioreactor systems I have developed for holding and display tanks at our own farm. If you have or obtain a client who wants to change the focus of her pond from Goldfish to Koi, or who has Koi but doesn’t like the maintenance they require, there are some relatively easy ways to help her. Garden pond filter designs have advanced rapidly during the past few years. Most are now capable of maintaining small Koi or small numbers of larger Koi. But what can you do if you get a referral for a client with an older garden pond and filtration system? You probably got the call because the client is frustrated by the inability of his current filtration system to maintain clear water, or by the amount of maintenance required to keep clear water. During the initial consultation, be sure to find out if he is satisfied with his current fish population or if he wants more and/or bigger fish. Once you have determined the client’s desires for the pond, check Table 1 to find the amount of filtration media April 2014
Table 1. Total body length (TL: tip of nose to tip of tail) for Koi of various sizes(1) and the quantity of media (feet3 or gallons) needed to maintain acceptable water quality for a single fish of the sizes indicated.
(1)
Length-weight data from the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. Quantity of media, either feet3 or gallons, is based on media that contains 200 feet2 of surface area per foot3 of media, and on the fact that the Koi are to be fed a 35 percent protein diet. Use the data in Table 2 to find the quantity of media needed for different ratios of surface area to volume.
*
needed to maintain his target Koi population, and then go to Table 2 to find the amount of media surface area in the current filtration system. The table compares different media based on surface area and cost per foot2. These two tables will give you an evaluation beyond the simple “good for ponds up to” information. In order to obtain and maintain water clarity, you must know what the filter really does, and the
tables are intended to reduce callbacks and maintenance headaches for you and your clients. As an example, we see from Table 1 that an 18-inch Koi should weigh about 3.5 pounds, and that it will need 0.2 feet3 of media that contains 200 feet2 of surface area per foot3 of media volume. If the pond has 10 fish of that size, then the media requirement Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 11
Table 2. Comparison of surface area (ft2) per volume (ft3), and cost per foot2 of various types of commercially available filtration media for use in ornamental ponds. Prices are in US dollars during 2013. The data indicate the amount of media needed to transform nutrients to nontoxic components. Up to 10 times the indicated amount of media may be needed to achieve acceptable water clarity.
shallow ponds, so their water quality tends to be more stable, but deeper water does require active aeration with air stones or diffuser disks. Deeper ponds are easier to keep clean because we can collect waste from the bottom rather than with a surface skimmer. Adding bottom drains allows us to remove plumbing from the pond and switch from submersible to external pumps. While external pumps are more expensive, they cost less to operate, and when operating cost is included external pumps win – especially after the first year. Within the three-year normal life of a submersible pump, electrical savings will pay for a new external pump. Add a strainer basket on the intake side and they are also easier to keep clean, especially if you are accustomed to putting a submersible pump inside a skimmer box.
becomes two feet3, or 14 gallons. Comparing the media requirement to 10 Goldfish, if we assume the fish are eight inches long and have weights equal to Koi up to this size, we now have a requirement for only 0.1 foot3, or 1.2 gallons of media. If the existing filter vaults are too small to contain the needed media, it is easy to see how filtration systems become overwhelmed. We can easily deepen an established rock-lined pond Page 12 Mid-Atlantic Koi
to accommodate Koi by removing the rocks below the plant shelf and using them in landscaping around the pond. This simple fix can increase the usable depth and volume of a pond by 50 to 100 percent. Koi ponds don’t have rock liners because the rocks interfere with water filtration. A single Koi will produce as much waste material as one to two dozen Goldfish, and that waste is much easier to manage without rocks. Deeper ponds don’t heat or cool as quickly as
You can get a retrofitted bottom drain for an existing pond and connect it to the skimmer vault. Install a check valve in the line so the pump won’t lose prime. Remove the submersible pump from the skimmer vault and install a horizontal perforated plate at the water level to collect litter. You or your client can easily remove leaves with a net. If the pond has a big skimmer vault, consider retrofitting it as a filter. Add an air stone or dome April 2014
larger surface area and volume. If there is not enough volume for more media in the existing skimmer, filter and waterfall vaults, you can add new vaults. You will probably need to do the bioreactor remodeling over a period of four to eight weeks. Replace media in only one vault at a time so that existing bioreactor activity is not lost. Check N (both total ammonia and nitrite) levels and wait until they stabilize to replace the next media vault. If addition of bacterial cultures does not maintain healthy N levels, you may have to turn off the UV and let algae help with the N removal until the new bioreactor matures. Planktonic algae are still best managed with UV systems. Ionic systems are best suited for water features without fish. Dissolved copper can reach harmful or toxic concentrations in lined ponds. Kurt Kleinholz carefully moves a parent Koi to a new pond.
and fill it 60 percent full of moving bed media. You can remove the solids more effectively downstream of the pump. Install a vault for solids removal and plumb it as an upflow unit. Put an air stone or disk on the bottom for agitation to dislodge solids during flushing. Add media like Springflo or Bio-Balls. They can capture solids and are easy to clean without using a lot of water. Mats that are fine enough to trap solids are a pain to clean. They use both time and water in excess of their usefulness in solids removal versus clogging. If you can’t live without filter pads, at least change the way you use them. Install the most open mesh nearest to the water intake, with progressively denser mesh closest to the pond return. You will spend less than half the usual time for pad maintenance. If the existing filter system needs more surface area, the cheapest solution may be to remove the old media and replace it with new media that has
Contractors can make these suggested changes within a single day. They will allow you to make your clients’ fish and ponds much more attractive and probably earn you many referrals. I hope they also serve as a call of opportunity to manufacturers to provide larger, more efficient filtration systems. ď ś
About the Author Conrad Kleinholz has been the Aquaculture Program Leader at Langston University, Oklahoma for 20 years. A major research focus of the program is managing water quality in ornamental ponds. Bioreactor systems for use in ornamental ponds are designed and tested. The systems enhance the health and appearance of the fish and the ponds. His research findings are the source of this article. He and his son, Kurt, have produced showquality Koi on their farm in Stillwater, Okla for 10 years. You can learn more about their farm at www.kleinholzkoifarm.com Reprinted with permission from POND Trade Magazine
April 2014
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 13
Health Care Part 2 by Ben Plonski, Laguna Koi Ponds, California
Treatment of Microscopic Parasites Add rock salt to the pond at 3 to 4 pounds per 100 gals. as a long term bath for 2 to 3 weeks. This produces a 0.3% to 0.5% level of salt. Be certain to divide this dosage over two days so the pond and Koi can adjust. This level of salt has a soothing effect on the Koi and can help control some of these parasites. Rock salt helps the Koi deal with stress. Koi normally lose internal body salts to the surrounding water by diffusion. The Koi must expend energy to regain these lost salts to maintain its health. This is called osmoregulation. When a Koi is weak or under stress, osmoregulation is more difficult. Adding salt to the pond will help the Koi retain its body salts. Rock salt will help the Koi save vital energy. More energy can be directed at fighting disease. Rock salt also increases mucous production on the Koi. This helps to slough off some of the parasites and protects the Koi. Rock salt at this concentration also has an inhibitory effect on the parasite. Rock salt by itself can cure some species of microscopic parasites; however, some species may not be affected at all. Some species of parasites will require chemical medication. Salt treatments usually take 3 to 5 days to be effective. Chemical medications must be used if Koi remain sick or get worse during salt treatment. While rock salt is an excellent aid to disease control, it is not a cure all. Dilute your salt level after 3 weeks by making daily 10% to 15% water changes. A very reliable salt level test kit is available from your pond retailer around $12 that is very accurate. Get one if you plan to use salt. This test kit recommends that you do not exceed 0.14% salt. This is true for plant ponds or ponds with a lot of algae. Page 14 Mid-Atlantic Koi
A word of caution. Rock salt at 3 to 4 pounds per 100 gallons will kill algae and aquatic plants in the pond. The resulting decay of plant material will pollute the pond and cause oxygen depletion. Weak Koi will not survive this additional stress. Excess algae and aquatic plants must be removed before the addition of rock salt. Salt treatment is an effective therapy for weak Koi; however, algae or aquatic plant growth may prevent its use. Salt treatments are not mandatory. You may opt to use chemical medications instead of salt. The most well known chemical medication for microscopic parasites is a combination of two chemicals called Formalin and Malachite Green. This combination is known under many trade names (Paracide Green, Rid-Ich) and can be found in any good Koi pond retail center. Most microscopic parasites can be controlled with this treatment. Use according to dosage on the bottle and treat once every 4 days when water temperature is above 65°F; and once every 5 to 7 days when temperature is between 55°F to 65°F. Treat a total of 3 times. When water temperature is below 55°F, do not treat. The Formalin component can harm your filter if you dose when the water temperature is cooler than 60°F. Likewise if your filter is too small or is recently established you may stunt the good bacteria with the formalin. Use caution and know your pond volume accurately before dosing. Some hobbyists opt to turn off or by-pass their filter for 4 to 6 hours on the day of treatment. Below 55°F to 50°F, most parasites are not a problem. The Trichlorfon treatment can be used in conjunction with the Formalin/Malachite Green. This treatment has a broader spectrum of April 2014
control. However, the salt level in the pond should not exceed the 3 pounds per 100 gallons when used with the formalin. Both treatments tend to cause excessive sloughing of mucous when used together and caution is in order. The Koi can actually lose its protective mucous which is the last thing we want. Most of the common parasites can be controlled with these common treatments. However some parasites are becoming increasingly resistant to standard medications. One such parasite is called skin or body flukes. Flukes are microscopic and when afflicting Koi can do a lot of damage. The Koi will scratch and jump a lot. A lot of mucous is produced by the Koi to protect itself. Flukes can open small sores on the Koi which can become infected with bacteria. It is important to rid your Koi of flukes as quickly as possible. When standard treatments fail you very likely have flukes. Fortunately, new treatments are being developed to control flukes. One effective medication for flukes is called Fluke-Tabs. Control can be gained quickly with this medication, however proper dosage must be followed. Overdosing, as with most medications will do more harm than good. Usually one treatment per week for 2 or 3 weeks is sufficient. Remember, a dirty pond can degrade the treatment and render it non-effective. Another parasite which is acquiring immunity to standard treatments is called Trichodina. This microscopic parasite also causes the Koi to scratch or jump a lot and the Koi will produce a lot of mucous. One of the best treatments for Trichodina is called potassium permanganate. This chemical is available through good Koi retail centers. Great care must be exercised when using this chemical. Potassium permanganate is an oxidizing agent which can burn your Koi's gills if overdosed. This chemical is very useful but must be used properly. Never walk away from a potassium permanganate treatment. April 2014
To treat the entire pond with permanganate, use a low dose of only 7.5 grams of pure crystal permanganate per 1000 gallons of pond water. This is not quite a LEVEL teaspoon. This produces approximately a 2 ppm dose. Mix this dose into a bucket of pond water and spread evenly around the pond. The water will turn purple. As the permanganate begins to decompose the color will turn to brown. The organics in a pond react with the permanganate and cause it to decompose. The brown color determines the termination point of the treatment. A dirty pond will decompose the permanganate within 5 or 10 minutes. An effective treatment must remain purple for 1 to 2 hours. A second or third treatment may be required once a day for 2 to 3 days. Every treatment will stay purple for a little longer. The permanganate is oxidizing the organics and the parasites in the pond water. Every treatment thus increases the permanganates effectiveness. Every treatment also increases the chance of burning your Koi's gills. For the Trichodina parasite usually only 2 of the dosages are necessary to bring things in order. Fortunately, you can deliberately terminate the treatment by adding a dechlorinator solution as for tap water. If you accidentally overdose or you think the Koi are in distress, add a dechlorinating agent for the full dose of the pond volume; the color will turn to brown within a few minutes and the treatment is terminated. You must maintain a high level of oxygen with the permanganate treatment. Another benefit of this low dose permanganate treatment is the oxidizing of water born and skin bacteria on the Koi. Permanganate is a good preventive to bacterial diseases. A word of caution: Do not use potassium permanganate treatments with new biofilters as this can stunt your good bacteria in the filter as well. Turn your new filter off for one hour while you treat the pond. Ensure good aeration and circulation within the pond during treatment. Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 15
Accurate Pond Gallonage Must Be Known Before Any Treatment Most medications only have a 15% margin for safety or effectiveness. The most accurate way to determine pond volume is to use a meter at the time of filling. Alternatively, fill a 5 gallon bucket and time its fill, then use that number in gals per minute to figure the fill rate from the garden hose. Rectangular or square pond volume in gallons = • •
(feet) length x width x average depth x 7.5 (inches) length x width x average depth Divided by 231
Circular ponds in gallons = • • •
radius =1/2 of diameter area = radius x radius x 3.14 volume = (feet) areax average depth x 7.5
Page 16 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Irregular Shapes Divide the pond up into circles, rectangles or squares. Add the divided parts together.
Salt Baths Salt baths can be a quick way of reducing the number of parasites afflicting a Koi. Koi which are heavily parasitized can be given a salt bath to help speed up the pond treatment. Also, new Koi can be given a salt bath before being introduced into the pond. This can really make a difference, especially with flukes and trichodina. To give a salt bath follow these steps. 1. Put 5 gals. of pond water into a large tub or bucket big enough for the Koi to be comfortable. Use only enough water so the Koi's top fin is just under the surface. 2. Add rock salt at 1 pound per 5 gals. to the tub and mix to dissolve. 3. Be sure the bath is well aerated before placing the Koi in it.
April 2014
4. Gently transfer the Koi with a plastic bag and place him into the salt bath. 5. Bathe the Koi for 5 minutes only. Do not leave the Koi alone. A weaker Koi will tend to roll over on its side within a few minutes, while stronger Koi may remain upright for the entire bath. Remove weak Koi in 3 minutes; remove stronger Koi in 5 minutes. 6. Transfer the Koi back to the pond by plastic bag and he will soon regain his equilibrium. 7. Salt baths may be given every 2 days but only until the Koi shows improvement. Usually only 1 or 2 baths are necessary. Repeated salt baths are unnecessary and will only weaken the Koi. Follow up treatment in the pond may be given by any of the standard treatments already covered. The salt bath will not kill any of the parasites which are free swimming in the pond or trapped in the filter. The salt bath cannot kill every parasite on the Koi but it can greatly reduce the numbers.
April 2014
Natural Balances. Koi have lived with parasites and other pathogens since the time of their origin. Koi in a well maintained pond can live in a natural coexistence with parasites. Remember, the goal is not to annihilate your Koi with every known medicine. A panic approach to disease control usually kills the parasites and the Koi. When Koi scratch or act odd do not immediately dump chemicals in their home. Use the process of investigation and elimination we discussed and treat for specific problems. Calm down and use your common sense; give the Koi some time to recover from mild problems with improved water quality and filtration. Just like a dog who has a few fleas we do not panic and over kill the situation. This sets us up for worse problems down the line. Prevention is the key. Good water quality and fewer fish tend to be a more suitable approach to prevention. Take care of your water and the water will take care of the Koi. ď ś
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 17
Why You Don’t Want Your Koi to Get Koi Herpes Virus by Sally Karo, KHA, CKK Reprinted from the Washington Koi & Water Garden Society
erry and I had our first ordeal with Koi Herpes Virus in August 2005 (see article in January 2006 WK & WGS Newsletter). It was a horrible, agonizing experience, prolonged because we could not believe our fish had KHV. We had just returned our show fish back into the 18,000 gallon indoor pond, along with a new one we had purchased from a dealer at the Portland show. We did not quarantine the new fish. Weeks later, our first fish, Autumn, died, I had a necropsy done, but not a KHV test. Concerned that we might have parasites, we did Prazi and Pro-Form C treatments for the pond inhabitants.
J
The necropsy results showed aeromonas hydrophila, which is a known killer of Koi. Friends of mine had just lost a fish from the same dealer I had bought from, and they did send a fish sample to University of Georgia for a KHV test, and the results had come back negative, so, through the veil of magical thinking, I assumed my fish couldn’t have it either. Boy, was I wrong. Even though we began treatment with Amikacin, and had portable fish tanks, air pumps, and heaters all over our garage and fish room, and raised the temperature and injected fish, the body count kept climbing. Finally, both Vicki Vaughn and Dr. Erik Johnson said the fact that so many fish were dying suggested that this was KHV. So on September 12, we shipped a fresh fish and 3 frozen fish overnight to Vicki’s lab. (She is no longer at the U. of Georgia, by the way.) Page 18 Mid-Atlantic Koi
On September 19, we got the call that said positively our Koi had KHV. We dosed the pond with Oxytet (Oxolinic Acid and Tetracycline, a sister compound of Baytril), which helped with secondary infections but fish continued to die. On September 21, we caught the best 16 fish to quarantine and heated them to 86 degrees…this was one of the hardest selections I have ever made. We now owned 10 aquarium heaters. Jerry and I did 50% water changes daily using hot water from our utility room sink. We used gallons of Ultimate. We removed all fish from the pond and placed them in show tanks, as with no hosts, the virus in the pond should die off. By this time, we had lost 50 gorgeous Koi. We spent 6 hours a day for weeks on end doing water changes. We “saved” a number of fish for several years. Ultimately, we lost 100 fish. We had started over with our survivor fish, and took in other club members’ survivor fish so that they wouldn’t have to be killed. This meant no more showing our Koi, or using our equipment (even when sanitized) when visiting others’ ponds in my KHA work. We could not bring in any new healthy Koi because our Koi were latent carriers even though they were survivors. To add to our misery, apparently one survivor fish that we rescued was still contagious or had a different strain of KHV (something Dr. Jin is investigating now), and ultimately we lost every Koi. Right now, our pond is totally empty. If Jerry has his way, it will remain empty. I have 7 healthy fish at Leo and Virginia’s now, but they will remain there. Jerry doesn’t want to go through any more April 2014
dead fish; he does not remember fondly the water changes, the tank set-up, the injections, staying up until 2 a.m. after working all day to try to save the Koi. It sure changes the way you feel about your Koi. I really miss going out to the pond, and having my grandchildren’s Koi swim over to eat out of our hands or be petted. We miss the over $2,000 we spent trying to save our Koi.
What did we learn? Always quarantine a new fish. Normally, we did. The one time we didn’t, it was a disaster. Another lesson is to Act Fast. We delayed in getting PCR testing done. We learned not to overcrowd, as well. My advice to everyone is Be Wary. When you hear someone say “I don’t have a quarantine tank,” think what a chance they are taking. Be Careful. Quarantine. Without a cure for this disease, it is possible that everyone in the hobby will someday have a story like mine to tell. That’s why it is so important to support KHV research, and Dr. Ling Jin at OSU is doing great work. By the way, we were never 100% sure about the source of our KHV, but the fact is that our disaster occurred after we introduced the only fish we hadn’t quarantined. We will never know. Tissue samples can be sent to Oregon State University, where Dr. Ling Jin’s research is taking place. Washington State University (WADDL) and University of Georgia also do PCR testing. UC Davis does ELISA testing. Good luck with your auction and raffle. Wish I could be there. And I wish we had a cure for KHV.
www.makc.com April 2014
MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers Tom Burton
Middletown, NJ
732-671-7045
Jan & Bill Fogle Wayne, PA
610-687-3105
Terri Janas
Ashburn, VA
703-729-2988
Jeff Nicholson
Odenton, MD
301-912-1928
All members have microscopes and health books. In the event of a recorded message, please suggest a time when you're home to receive a return call or when you'd like to call back. Please remember that advice is given based on your input–the ultimate responsibility and treatment must remain with you. Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 19
Your Koi are What They Eat by Gregory A. Lewbart, MS, VMD, DACZM
Reprinted from the Washington Koi & Water Garden Society
roper nutrition provides the foundation upon which a strong and vital Koi, or fancy carp, husbandry program is constructed. While ornamental fish nutrition is a vast and largely unexplored subject, a large volume of literature on nutrition of aquaculture food fish–those destined for human consumption–provides the basis for useful extrapolation.
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This article explains Koi anatomy and physiology; the types of commercial foods available; the relationship of nutrition, feeding and water quality; the minimal nutritional requirements of the Koi, Cyprinus carpio; and appropriate feeding regimens.
Quick Anatomy Lesson A basic understanding of Koi gastrointestinal anatomy and physiology will help the reader understand and appreciate Koi nutrition. Koi have soft fleshy projections called barbels located on either side of their mouths. All Koi have two pairs, the larger pair located beneath the smaller pair. The barbels contain taste buds and help the Koi find food. Barbels do not possess any bones or scales. The Koi mouth, or buccal cavity, contains a tongue but lacks teeth. Food enters the mouth and passes to the pharynx (throat) where it is ground by pharyngeal teeth against the carp stone, a bony plate located at the top of the pharynx.
Large pharyngeal muscular pads help the Koi move food from its mouth to the grinding area. Koi have a relatively long, coiled intestinal tract but no true stomach. The intestine grows proportionally with a Koi’s age; younger fish have a proportionally shorter intestine than older fish. The terminal portion of the intestine, the rectum, ends at the vent where waste products are released into the water. Food is digested and absorbed in the intestine with the help of enzymes secreted by the liver, gallbladder, and pancreatic cells. The multi-lobed liver is closely associated with the intestine. The right lobe of the liver surrounds the large gallbladder while the left lobe encases the spleen. Pancreatic tissue is located in small cellular islands throughout the mesentery (spider web-like tissue that connects the various internal organs). At a temperature of 68 degrees Fahrenheit, a Koi takes about five hours to digest its food.
Getting Hungry In nature, carp consume plant and animal matter and will eat almost anything they can draw into their mouths. They also perpetually search for food. In captivity, they will eat opportunistically–algae and small invertebrates–but the bulk of their diet comes from human caregivers. Koi keepers have a nutritional edge over other ornamental fish hobbyists. Because of a number of variables that affect nutritional requirements, including species
Page 20 Mid-Atlantic Koi
April 2014
diversity, environmental temperature, age and size of fish, and level of activity, it would be impossible to list specific nutritional requirements of all ornamental fish. But detailed work, most related to carp aquaculture in Europe and Asia, has provided us with a good baseline for the nutritional requirements of Koi. A few general considerations worth mentioning. Ornamental fish obtain most of their energy from dietary fat. All fish require essential fatty acids in their diets, and carp and Koi require both omega6 and omega-3 fatty acids. However, fat should not exceed 15 percent of the daily intake in order to avoid hepatic lipidosis, or fatty liver disease. Fat breaks down into water and carbon dioxide, which is non-toxic in the aquarium or pond, whereas protein breaks down into toxic ammonia and nitrite. Most fish do not require carbohydrates, although a number of species, including Goldfish and Koi, utilize hindgut fermentation to digest complex carbohydrates. Most commercial diets list protein as the largest percentage of the dry matter contained in the feed. Like higher vertebrates, fish require 10 amino acids . . . [those are: Arginine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Tryptophan, and Valine], all of which exist in animal protein. While some commercial diets contain plant protein as part of their total protein, animal proteins are the most desirable, as fish are most efficient at digesting and assimilating animal proteins. Younger Koi do better with a slightly higher protein percentage (35-38 percent versus 32-35 percent for older fish). . . . April 2014
Hungry Fish
Nutritional deficiencies can lead to a variety of clinical problems including curvature of the spine, poor growth and hemorrhage of the skin and fins. Much is said about temperature and how it relates to feeding Koi. Most hobbyists stop feeding Koi when the water temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a good guideline, but Koi can and will eat at water temperatures below 50 degrees. With the decrease in temperature comes a decrease in metabolic rate, leading to a decrease in required caloric intake. The main risk of feeding at low temperatures is a buildup of uneaten food in the pond. The possibility of nondigested food decomposing in the Koi’s GI tract has been mentioned, but evidence supporting this claim doesn’t exist. Researchers have published some interesting work on carp, nutrition, and temperature. They found that when carp were fed at 77 degrees Fahrenheit, they grew faster and had a better food conversion rate than similar carp kept at 95 degrees. The cooler carp also had more collagen in their bones and did not require supplemental vitamin C, while the fish in warmer water did. Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 21
Several general references provide more data on Koi nutrition. [WK&WG Editor’s note: the course in Koi Nutrition, by Dr. Richard Strange, U. of Tennessee, is a good option, available through Koi Organisational International.]
Pellets, Paste and Flakes A wide variety of commercially produced feeds are available to the Koi owners. The majority of these fish foods can be purchased in pet, department and grocery stores, or on the Internet. Manufacturers generally design the containers with marketing in mind and specific certain foods for different types of growth or coloration. The most commonly available and purchased Koi food is the floating pellet. Sinking pellets, paste foods and flake foods are also available. When selecting a feed type, consider the leaching of essential nutrients from the food into the water. Water-soluable vitamins are most vulnerable to nutrient leaching, and studies have shown that a large percent of vitamin C, viamin B12, choline and pantothenic acid dissipate in the water within 30 seconds of feeding. Freshwater fish are unable to capture these lost vitamins. By reducing surface-area-to-volume ratios, leaching can be minimized. Thus, pelleted and granular feeds that are swallowed whole by the fish tend to be more functionally nutritious than flake foods. Pelleted foods also contain cooked carbohydrates, which are more digestible than uncooked carbohydrates. Provide some dietary variety when feeding your fish. This could be done by offering two or three types of commercial feeds. Live Goldfish, guppies and other feeder fish should be discouraged because of the risk of transmitting contagious diseases, especially ectoparasites. Page 22 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Live foods such as earthworms, bloodworms, black worms, tubificid larvae (tubifex worms) and bring shrimp generally present less of a risk of disease transmission, but cases have been reported. Non-fish pet foods, such as dog food and cat food, should not be fed. Commercially produced and packaged fish feeds frequently do not list a manufacture or expiration date. Flake and pelleted feeds should be stored in sealed containers and be kept cool and dry, ideally in the household refrigerator. For the best and safest results, discard and replace food after six to eight months. It may not be the most economically sound decisions, but it makes health sense to buy smaller containers of food.
Easy on the Feeding To a large degree, the quality of the water dictates how long the fish can live in a tank or pond. If Koi are overfed, uneaten food or excessive nitrogenous waste production can literally poison fish in their own pond or aquarium. As a general rule, Koi should be fed no more than they can eat in three to five minutes, and in most cases, several daily feedings are adequate. Since they lack a true stomach, frequent feeding is commonly suggested. Of course, exceptions to this guideline exist, especially when the nutritional requirements of very young fish are considered. Juvenile fish usually require multiple daily feedings and more food by weight since they are rapidly growing. Most Koi should be fed between 1 and 3 percent of bodyweight per day. For example, a 2 pound fish would eat between one-third ounce and 1 ounce of food per day. April 2014
Thus–and this is only a guideline–a pond with ten 2 pound fish should receive about a pound of food daily. One of the most common causes of pet fish mortality is the friend or neighbor syndrome. The scenario is familiar. The Koi owner is away on vacation for a short time and the friend or neighbor is charged with taking care of the pond. Eager to please the fish and keep them happy, the neighbor overfeeds. A negative feedback loop develops in which ammonia levels rise, the fish become anorexic, and the worried caretaker places more or different feeds in the pond or aquarium to see if they can get the fish to eat something. Some of the best advice is to simply feed the fish well a day or two before leaving and let them fend for themselves for a couple of days. If the owner will be gone for several days or longer, pre-measured packets/baggies of food will solve the problem. Researchers say one can’t overfeed a Koi, but one can overfeed a pond. In warmer months, the act of eating and digesting will use valuable oxygen. In winter, Koi will likely have plenty of oxygen but may not be interested in food, as their metabolism will have slowed for the season. Furthermore, uneaten food will only pollute the aquarium or pond with unnecessary nitrogen.
Synthetic carotenoids called xanthins are also frequently added to commercial Koi foods. Except in unusual circumstances, a variety of fresh commercial pelleted feeds should provide your fish with all of the necessary nutrients and pigments. Koi nutrition is one of the most important and vital components of proper aquarium or pond maintenance. Numerous factors must be considered when developing a successful feeding regimen. The basic concepts of diet selection, frequency of feeding and amount of food, nutritional requirements of a Koi and the importance of water quality are all key factors to be considered.
About the Author Dr. Greg Lewbart, Professor of Aquatic Animal Medicine at North Caroline State University, teaches invertebrate, fish, and reptile medicine. He is a graduate of University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine (1988) and is a Diplomate of the American College of Zoological Medicine. He is faculty advisor for the NCSU-CVM Turtle Rescue Team and has authored numerous professional articles and books.
Some food additives, such as carotenoids, may enhance or affect the color of your Koi. However, a Koi’s pigmentation is genetically programmed, and with proper nutrition, water quality, and other husbandry parameters, the Koi’s natural colors should be vibrant. Many commercial diets add Spirulina (an aquatic plant) for color and nutritional benefits. April 2014
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 23
It's as easy as A B C . . . Pond Basic Concepts . . .
The Beginner’s First Mistake by Ed Keene, Diamond State Aquarium Society, Delaware, and Adapted for Ponds by C. Weise
M
any people, having been impressed by Koi they have seen at their friends' homes, professional offices (e.g. doctors, lawyers, etc.), or pet shops, decide to try out the Koi fish hobby for themselves. Although many continue to maintain a pond for the rest of their lives, unfortunately, many find the associated expense and maintenance tasks frustrating enough to give up the hobby, and quit in total disgust. If many of these people had done some research and applied the useful knowledge they obtained, they might not have quit the hobby, but rather, would still be in it today. This article will discuss the first common error and misconception that beginning hobbyists have regarding the establishment of their ponds. Believe it or not, the first mistake they make is in the purchase of their new pond. How can this be, you ask, for in order to become involved and interested in the hobby they need to have a pond. Let me explain. One of the first things is deciding what size pond to install, and although this sounds very simple it does present at least one, if not two, major problems to the beginner. The bad news here is that the beginner doesn't realize that a problem or two even exists!! The first problem stems from a fairly well-documented and well-known fact among hobbyists. The greater the volume of water the lesser the problems that can overcome the pond and the lesser the volume of water the greater the problems that can overcome the pond. The second stems from the total dimensions of the pond and other living areas it will displace when installed. Page 24 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Problem One: The Pond Size What does that mean? Well, a larger sized pond, say 2000 to 3000 gallons or more, will take several days or longer before a minor problem will turn itself into a major catastrophe. On the other hand, a smaller sized pond, say 150 gallons or less, may only take a couple hours before a minor problem reaches the catastrophic state. A good example would be the protozoan parasite Ichthyoptthirius multiflis or, as it is more commonly referred to among hobbyists, "Ich" or "White Spot disease." Ich is one of the primary skin affecting diseases of freshwater fish. The complete Ich lifecycle, cyst to tomite to adult, lasts approximately 7 days at 77°F (or 6 weeks at 43°F water temperature and smaller bodies of water heat more quickly). At the adult stage, Ich causes the appearance of very tiny white spots over the body and fins of fish. Prior to this, in its cyst stage, it is encased and laying dormant at the bottom of the pond. In poor quality water the cyst will explode giving rise to a minimum of several hundred tomites. It is during the tomite stage, which lasts for approximately 3 days, that the Ich is very infectious to the fish yet sensitive to meditated treatments. With a larger pond, and thus a larger volume of water, you will have more time to detect the white spots and begin medicated treatment to avoid catastrophic infection. In a smaller space, the same cannot be said. By the time you first observe white spots on the fish, it will probably be too late to save the fish and will have taken a firm hold on all of the fish in the pond. In the smaller pond, the Ich did not have to travel far or search long to locate a fish to attach itself to. April 2014
One consideration the beginner takes into account when making the pond purchase is the price. Generally speaking, the beginner, simply because of being a beginner, decides to buy a small pond say 100 gallons. I think that the logic of the beginner subconsciously dictates this, in that the beginner convinces himself that because the larger ponds are much more expensive, and he’s only starting out, he’ll buy a small one so he will not have to lay out lots of money. Down the road, he’ll buy a larger pond. BINGO!! The beginner has just created that big problem I spoke about earlier, and put his pond hobby interest in jeopardy without even realizing it. Many, many times, without any outside assistance or help, this beginner will fail.
Problem Two: The Pond Dimensions In addition to the size of the pond, a beginner should also take into consideration the space available at the home and once it is installed, will it be right for him? Many beginners take into account the size; however, most forget the mature size of the fish they plan to stock (ie- Koi) and that these are very long-lived fish. So the pond is an investment, not just a passing interest. The next consideration which is most often overlooked is the filtration. If the filter is not sufficient for the amount and size of fish, then it is inadequate for the pond itself. This is the second biggest beginner failure leading to departure from the hobby. Had our beginner known, he could have had a happy experience with his Koi pond.
In Conclusion Again I'll state it - the first mistake many, if not most beginners make, is the purchase of their new pond. If you know of anyone contemplating the purchase of a first time pond, kindly assist them in understanding the importance and meaning of this article. Your valuable help, aid, and assistance to the beginning hobbyist today, might prove to carry a lot of weight in your relationship with the experienced hobbyist of tomorrow. April 2014
To become a member or renew is easy. Fill out the form on page 33, mail it in - and violia youare a member! Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 25
Koi Keeper vs. Heron: The Final Solution by James Damis, Cascade Koi & Goldfish Club
ate in life I became a gardener. Not long after came the Koi pond. Years passed before the first heron arrived. I declared war, but the enemy was persistent, elusive and always hungry.
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My first defense was the Scarecrow, a motion sensitive device staked to the ground that the internet seller claimed would scare away any heron approaching the pond by directing a forceful stream of water at the offender, combined with a loud whap-whap noise (like a lawn sprinkler that slowly advances its rotating head when the water strikes a protruding blade). Installing a Scarecrow is no simple task, because it must be connected to a water line. My pond is 15 feet wide, 35 feet long (with a waterfall at one end) and partially protected by shrubbery. I figured I needed three Scarecrows, strategically placed, which meant I had to run an underground hose from the nearest faucet to the first Scarecrow and then continue trenching it to the second Scarecrow and finally, around the pond to the third site on the opposite side of the pond. Each Scarecrow had an on-off switch, so I could deactivate this water cannon whenever I came near (to feed the Koi or mow the lawn). If I forgot to turn it off, it always nailed me, and the grandkids loved to use it on a hot summer day. At least I knew it worked. I couldn’t wait to see the heron suffer the same fate.
Finally, through my kitchen window one beautiful Sunday morning I saw a big heron land on the lawn. As herons do, it walked stealthily to the pond edge, only eight feet away from the nearest Scarecrow. Nothing happened! When the heron craned its neck out over the pond and assumed its striking position, I walked out onto the deck. The heron took a step back, turned and stared at me. I glared back. He didn’t move, so I walked across the deck toward the stairs leading to the pond. The heron flew to the other side of the pond, landed and turned around to face me. He was then only six feet away from another Scarecrow, which was pointed directly at it, but again nothing happened. I came closer and the heron flew back across the pond, up, up and away. Convinced that I had stupidly forgotten to reactivate the units, I walked up to the pond and bam, it nailed me. Maybe Scarecrows scare deer away and I know they work on humans, but they don’t work on herons because they move too slowly and they are not big enough to trigger the motion sensors. Gambit #2: I had heard that heron feed only from the water’s edge and had personally observed this
Don’t let this Heron come find your pond! Page 26 Mid-Atlantic Koi
April 2014
from watching heron feed at the lakes at my golf club. But, I refused to deface the beauty of my garden by putting an ugly fence around my pond. So, instead, I cleverly fashioned a net that extended 30 inches outward from the pond’s edge but was parallel to the pond’s surface and just a few inches above the water level. Thus, no heron could reach over the net extension to stab the Koi. This method yielded an unobstructed view of most of the center of the pond to enjoy my beautiful Koi. I was feeling quite smug until I began missing some of my small Koi. That riddle was solved when my wife reported seeing a heron land in the middle of the pond. Foiled again. Stratagem #3: I then covered the whole surface of the pond with one of those cheap plastic-like nets that Home Depot sells to cover fruit trees to keep birds away. Unfortunately, those nets sink, are flimsy, difficult to work with, easily torn and must be repurchased each year. The Final Solution I discovered the Astoria Net Shop on the internet and purchased from its owner, George McMurrick, a net
that has the heft and feel that fishermen use. The net openings are 7/8 inch square. The net is black and it floats perfectly on the surface. The Koi easily suck down the floating pellets, which are held in place until eaten (so no fish food gets sucked in the skimmers). The net is easy to handle, does not get tangled, blends in with the blackness of the pond and is easily pulled to one side so you can display the pond in its full glory at social gatherings. You can order this net in rectangular dimensions of your choosing from the Astoria Net Shop (503-440-1493). Shortly after I installed my net, I witnessed a heron land, walk up to the pond, study the situation for 30 seconds and fly away (presumably seeing the impossibility of another free lunch). That was three years ago and I haven’t had a heron visit since. The net performs as well now as when I first used it. I paid approximately 30 cents per square foot, which is a tad expensive, but the freedom from worry has been well worth it.
Books Available on Amazon.com KOISHI by Mamoru Kodama Learn about Japanese Koi Breeding, Farms and the Breeders. Read the history of Koi varieties and great insights to Koi in Japan.
ABC’s of Ponds – Have a friend interested in building a pond? Are you a beginner? This beautifully illustrated hard cover book is packed with pond & water feature fundamentals plus many little known secrets to successful pond keeping!
The RISE Method Want to learn how to make your pond projects look more natural? Written by Rick Bartel, international acclaimed pond builder. April 2014
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 27
Sunshine Column
Treasurer’s Report Submitted by Anthony Vitale, New York Balance as of January 2014 Income: Memberships Total Income
Andrea Duggan needs A LOT OF PRAYERS!! She has a bacterial heart infection and needs your prayers, so please keep her in your prayers. She's too weak for medical procedures. Our eastern Long Island club member has been living with the aftermath of Stage 4 Hodgekins for years now and is at a critical point at this time. Her spirit never wanes, but she needs us. Know someone to list in our Sunshine Column Email Carolyn Weise, Editor makcmag@makc.com
Need to Change Your email or Home Address? Have Questions about your Membership Status?
Expenses: Meeting Expense Printing/Publication 2 Issues Total Expenses Balance as of February 2014
155.00 $155.00
72.53 1,600.00 $1,672.53 $14,153.47
Outstanding Item: Accounts Receivable Tri-State Koi Club Book Balance
500.00
$14,653.47
Reserve Account/Prepaid Memberships
Balance Club Total Balance
Contact: Barry Hixson 5465 Towanda Dr. Bethlehem, PA 18017 610-262-5184 or makcmembers@verizon.net
$15,671.00
$6,409.39 $21,062.86
Renew Your MAKC Membership by printing out page 33 and mailing it to Barry. Page 28 Mid-Atlantic Koi
April 2014
On the Road to a Koi Event March 29 Deep South 1st Koi & Goldfish Show Baton Rouge, LA. Inaugural Koi & Goldfish Show in conjunction with the LSU Garden Show.
June 6–8 PNKCA Convention
M A KC E v e n t Saugerties Chapter Meeting Sunday, April 27 Inquiring Minds Bookstore Saugerties, New York Contact Herb Ehrich for additional information (845) 247-7105 · koiking15@yahoo.com
Clackamas, Oregon, contact Tom and Kate Taylor for more information tomkatet@comcast.net or see website at http://www.pnkca.com
July 11–13 Midwest Pond & Koi Society 17th Annual Koi & Goldfish Show http://www.mpks.org
September 5-7 20th Annual ZNA Potomac Koi Show Held at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens, Vienna VA. http://www.znapotomac.org
Send your meeting and event information to Carolyn Weise 516-640-6490 or makcmag@makc.com Deadline April 1st for the May 2014 issue.
September 19-21 Carolina Classic Koi Show East Coast Koi Imports, New Hill, NC http://carolinaclassickoishow.com Have an upcoming Koi event, please send the information to makcmag@makc.com. We will be glad to include it in future articles. Don’t forget your own MAKC Club has events coming up that can be found in our digital magazine or at www.makc.com. We always need volunteers for meetings and shows. It is amazing how much you can learn by helping. Take advantage of being an MAKC member and participate in the club events.
Aquaponics Technology & Design Workshop April 1-5, 2014 Apopka, FL Learn every aspect of commerical aquaponics, from system design to plant and fish production to marketing and economics.
407-886-3939 • PentairAES.com See you soon at a Koi event. April 2014
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 29
F..A..S..T.. Ads – April Disclaimer: MAKC and its officers assume no responsibility for claims of advertisers or the quality/serviceability of goods offered.
HOUSE FOR SALE. 519 Claremont Dr. Flat Rock, NC 28731
MAKC Member Needs Your Help Non-fish-eating cats, won't hurt your pond fish! - LOVING CATS NEED GOOD HOMES. Passing of spouse forces me to find homes for both inside and outside cats. All neutered. Phone 973-390-6490 with what you are looking for and we can match you with your new best friend.
FOR SALE Remember any MAKC member can list their Koi, pond, or related items for sale here in your magazine at no charge. Please contact Philip today if you have something for sale. BAMBOO. Winter hardy and tropical for indoors. Thinning collection. Reasonable prices. Call Ron Altman, NY 718-442-1673 (Office) or 908-658-3055 (H).
• • • • • •
Price: $599,000 Beds: 3 Bed Baths: 3 Full, 2 Half Bath House Size: 4,067 Sq Ft Lot Size: 1.1 Acres Year Built: 1994
http://www.wncrmls.com/wnc/ maildoc/sd_Q8u1QO20130923150730.html
F..A..S..T.. Ads Policy & Deadlines F..A..S..T.. Ads are available FREE to MAKC members only; no commercial ads. Ads are limited to 10 items and must include name, phone number, town and state. Deadline is the 1st of each month. Help do you have an hour or two? We need a volunteer to manage this page. Please contact
Philip Gray • 516-486-5163 philiegray@mac.com Page 30 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Contact Patricia Shub, dunedog@bellsouth.net or phone 954-208-4600. QUALITY SHOW KOI. Show quality Koi for sale. Need to thin out my pond contact philiegray@mac.com.
WANTED KOI. Foster Home. Large natural pond. Happy to accept your overgrown or unwanted “children.” Call Rich Menashe in Metuchen, NJ, 732-767-0720. April 2014
KOI. Wanted Healthy Pond Grade KOI over 10˝. Will pay reasonable prices. I have a 750,000 gallon pond and will adopt any unwanted KOI. Call Joseph Pollock in Virginia at 540-788-9222. KOI. Wanted for large deep natural pond next to soon to be built wine tasting room in wine country of Northern Virginia. Happy to accept any and all Koi of any size and color. Stop by and visit them next year when our tasting room opens. Call Mark Malick in Purcellville, VA, 540-270-3399 (cell). KOI BITO MAGAZINES – in good condition. Send list with asking price, or call Roger Klocke 701-491-2803, E-mail at rklockejr@aol.com. Mailing address: Roger Klocke, 4805 Meadow Creek Dr., Fargo, ND 58104. KOI STORE EMPLOYEE. Looking for a knowledgeable Koi and pond hobbyist. Part-time, competitive pay. Outstanding employee discounts! Call John at Blue Ribbon Koi Products. 703-753-7566. MAKC CENTRAL CHAPTER VICEPRESIDENT. Schedule 4 to 12 meetings per year. This includes making sure that the meeting announcement is submitted to the magazine and the MAKC website. Plenty of advice and support are available. Your "compensation" .... knowing that you have given back to MAKC and your fellow members. Please don't wait for someone else to step forward! MAKC is a membership organization. If more than one person is interested, you can share the fun! E-mail Philip Gray at philiegray@mac.com or call 516-486-5163. MAKC WEBMASTER- Needed immediately. Update club website one to two times a month on average. Please E-mail Philip Gray at philiegray@mac.com or call 516-486-5163.
www.makc.com April 2014
Mid-Atlantic Koi Ad Index Aquaculture Bead Filter Specialists . . . . . . .7, 16 Aquatic Nutrition –
Long Island Fish Hospital . . .23 Matala USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Mazuri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Blackwater Gold–N . . . . . . .28
Microbe-Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Books on Amazon . . . . . . . . .27
Nisei Koi Farm . . . . . . . . . . .5, 7
Hikari . . . . . . . . . .7, Back Cover
Pentair Aquatic
Kloubec Koi Farm . . . . . . . . .25
Eco-Systems, Inc. . . . . . . . .19
Kodama Koi Farm . . . . . . .7, 17
Quality Koi Company . . . . .5, 7
Advertise in Mid-Atlantic Koi! Ad Rates from $15/issue* for a business card ad to $300/issue* for a full page color ad. Reach your target audience of Koi keepers & water gardeners each month and leave your competition in the dust!! Contact Philip Gray at 516-486-5163 (leave message) or e-mail: philiegray@mac.com to request information on our advertiser packages and/or a copy of our ad rate sheet. *With an annual 10 issue contract.
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 31
Pictures to Share
What is going on in this picture? Find out in the next issue of Mid-Atlantic Koi. Paula Biles shares with you her knowledge of plant propagation in the article she wrote titled, “Divide and Conquer.” Photo shared by Paula Biles. Have a picture to share? Send your photos to the Editor, Carolyn Weise at makcmag@makc.com.
Page 32 Mid-Atlantic Koi
April 2014
MAKC Membership Application
W
e are pleased that you have inquired about membership in the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. The club meets monthly at convenient regional locations in the Mid-Atlantic area and also publishes an informative monthly magazine (bi-monthly in Nov/Dec & Jan/Feb).
Our dues are $30 per year, per family (includes $15.00 for a one-year subscription to Mid-Atlantic Koi Online Magazine). The club year runs June 1st through May 31st of the following year. (Dues are pro-rated per month. Those who join in January or after are also asked to join for the following year.) Join for 4 years for $100 and save - $20. Overseas Membership - $40 per year. Corporate Membership $275 per year which includes advertising and other benefits. Call Barry Hixson at 610-262-5184 or e-mail: makcmembers@verizon.net for details. Please consult the following chart for the proper amount and send your check (payable to the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club) to me, Barry Hixon, 5465 Towanda Dr., Bethlehem, PA 18017. Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
June
July
Aug
Sept
Oct
Nov
Dec
$42.50
$40
$37.50
$35
$32.50
$30
$27.50
$25
$22.50
$20
$17.50
$15
As soon as I receive your check, I will send you a "Welcome to MAKC" email and a list of upcoming meetings in your area. You will also be given the date of your membership expiration. Your email will be added to our MAKC Notice Group to allow you to receive MAKC news and up-to-date information. A great source of information is our MAKC website: www.makc.com. The MAKC membership list may be made available (upon approval by the MAKC Executive Committee) for the dissemination of Koi-related information.
Welcome to MAKC! I sincerely believe you will enjoy it as much as we all do. Barry Hixson Membership Committee Mid-Atlantic Koi Club
PLEASE PRINT (You may omit any information that may be sensitive such as unlisted phone numbers or email accounts.) LAST NAME ________________________ FIRST NAME(S) _________________________ (If Applicable) CORPORATE MEMBERSHIP NAME: ______________________________________ ADDRESS ______________________________ CITY__________________ STATE _____ ZIP______ TELEPHONE ______________________ E-MAIL ________________________________ OCCUPATION(S)______________________ Do you have a pond?____ Dimensions____________ Gallons________ Type filter________________ Do you keep Koi or Goldfish?__________ Type______________ Size___________ How Many? ______ Are there any Koi related problems you need help with?_________ If so, what kind?_______________ ______________________________________________________________________________ Do you have special talents, knowledge or interest you would be willing to share with us? _________ If so, what kind? __________________________________________________________________ Would you be willing to have a Koi Club meeting at your home? _______________________________ SIGNATURE ____________________________ DATE ____________ AMOUNT PAID ___________ April 2014
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 33