Mid~Atlantic Koi The Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club
January/February 2015
Mid~Atlantic Koi The Membership Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club
Volume 28, Number 6
January/February 2015
—Upcoming Events
MAKC Corporate Members . . . . . . . . . .7
Central Chapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Long Island Chapter . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Saugerties Chapter Meetings . . . . . .27 South Chapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
—MAKC News
Introducing Marudo Yorijo Farm . . . . .8 Courtesy of Hikari USA
Creating the Perfect Aquatic Turtle Habitat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Lisa Burns, Backyard Getaway
President’s Message . . . . . . . .4 From the Editor’s Desk . . . . .6
The Nitrogen Cycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Treasurer’s Report . . . . . . . .26
Koi Can Smell and Taster . . . . . . . . . . . .19
MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers . . . . . . . .27 Sunshine Column . . . . . . . . .28 F..A..S..T Ads . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Ad Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Ed Keene, DCAS Don Harrawood, KHA, Texas
Koi Emergency Care Kit . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Jack Chapman, KHA, California
What’s the Danger? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Carolyn Weise, Florida
Mid-Atlantic Koi Deadlines for articles, meeting announcements and ads
How to Sedate a Fish with Tricaine-S or Clove Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Betty Harris and Joann Mead
March Issue Deadline: Available Online: April Issue Deadline: Available Online:
February 1 March 1
MAKC Drawing - April 2015 . . . . . . . .24
March 1 April 1
Pentair Aquatic Eco-Systems Acquires PR Aqua Supplies, LTD . . . . .25 On the Road to a Koi Event . . . . . . . . . .26 Beginner’s Corner - Zeolite . . . . . . . . . .28 Don Harrawood, KHA, Texas
Marudo Yorijo Farm
Word Search Parasites and Treatments 29
Photo by Hikari USA
Goldfish Standards Revised 2014 . . . . .30
Jo Mead, New York American Goldfish Association
Picture to Share . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 MAKC Membership Application . . . . .39 Page 2 Mid-Atlantic Koi
January/February 2015
P r e s i d e n t ’s M e s s a g e by Joann Mead Suggestions4MAKC@gmail.com ast year flew by and it is very hard to believe that it is 2015! I’m sure that many have New Year's resolutions and I hope that you are doing better than I am at sticking to some of mine! If you haven't made one I would like to make a suggestion for you. Be an active member of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. Just two volunteer hours per member would give MAKC a pool of 2,000 man hours. With that, MAKC can accomplish tremendous things in 2015. Not only will you help MAKC, you will enrich your knowledge of keeping Koi and goldfish- for which your finned friends will thank you over and over again!
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Speaking of volunteer opportunities ... I’m looking for a MAKC member or two who would like to help out the Club. The Club has openings in the Executive Committee for the Club Secretary and in Sales.
Please drop me an e-mail and we can talk more about these two great positions at jo_mead@earthlink.net or give me a call during the day at (845) 389-5712. Hope to see you - after the thaw - at a MAKC meeting/event!
Joann
MAKC Contest See Page 24 for Details
The duties of the Club Secretary are to cause notices to be served as required by the bylaws; to keep minutes of all annual, special, chapter and Executive Committee meetings of the organization; and to perform other duties as from time to time may be assigned by the President. The duties of Sales are to recruit/maintain advertisers. An experience in marketing is desirable, but enthusiasm and a willingness to learn can compensate for lack of marketing experience. Lastly, you also need to be comfortable communicating with me primarily by e-mail. Page 4 Mid-Atlantic Koi
The National Fisheries Development Board building in Hyderabad, India. January/February 2015
MAKC Executive Committee President Joann Mead
(845) 389-5712
jo_mead@earthlink.net
Vice-President Herb Ehrich
(845) 247-7105
koiking15@yahoo.com
Secretary Looking for a Volunteer Treasurer Anthony Vitale
(516) 420-0740
nyssba96@aol.com
Central Chapter Vice-President Bruce Damme (302) 598-8431 Drbdamme@windcrestanimal.com
Remember to Renew Your Membership
Long Island Chapter Vice-President Bruce Levine
(516) 735-2644
bruce@li-koi.com
Saugerties (NY) Chapter Vice-President Herb Ehrich Alan Mickelson
(845) 247-7105
koiking15@yahoo.com
South Chapter Vice-President (301) 332-7042 alanmickelson@msn.com
Standing Committees Richard Douglass
Membership (845) 723-4373
pvsherow@gmail.com
MAKC Sales Looking for a Volunteer MAKC Notice Group Manager Michael Snyder Sarah Johnson
(301) 762-2059 makc@imsnyder.com WebMaster (732) 567-6678 sarranna@yahoo.com
Executive Board Advisor y C ommittee Joe Zuritsky (215) 575-4001 Eric Wilson
jzuritsky@parkwaycorp.com
(443) 203-6486
wilseric@comcast.net
Don’t Wait – Do it Today. Renewal form you can print out is on page 39.
MAKC Home Page: http://www.makc.com
Production: Cindy Graham, NextUp Creations
Mid-Atlantic Koi is the magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. Material is selected for its interest to Koi keepers. MAKC accepts no responsibility for accuracy of content. Reproduction of uncopyrighted articles is permitted as long as this magazine is credited as the source. January/February 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi Magazine Editor, Carolyn Weise
(239) 573-6650 x105
Advertising Editor, Joann Mead
(845) 389-5712
makcmag@makc.com jo_mead@earthlink.net
Meeting/Events Editor, Carolyn Weise (239) 573-6650 x105 makcmag@makc.com FAST Ads Editor, Carolyn Weise (239) 573-6650 x105 makcmag@makc.com
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 5
From the Editor’s Desk by Carolyn Weise makcmag@makc.com Happy New Year, Everybody! It’s ALL about the fish! Winter or summer, they are on our minds. The pond is the first thing visitors want to see when someone comes calling. It attracts young and old. There is nothing that can quite compare to the sight of Koi swimming in the yard. Keeping them safe, healthy and happy sometimes takes a little effort, but it’s a labor of love. We are pleased to bring you some information in this issue to improve the quality of life for your fish. My new pump, for instance, is a great addition at my house, and could be to your pond. Having a Koi Care Emergency Kit can seriously save us some stress when the inevitable (or unthinkable!) happens. And, knowing how to sedate a fish, for examination, is important to know. We don’t want to add pain to a suffering friend, but need to figure out how to help.
Japanese Koi Farmer articles which have been informative and inspirational. I also would like to thank Lisa Burns, Florida and Don Harrawood from Texas, both of whom are Koi and water garden store owners and professionals who have been regular contributors to our magazine. These are the people who are leaders in the field. We have new crosswords and puzzles in the magazine now for all you puzzle-lovers! This is your club magazine and we aim to please. So, please send me anything you wish to see and I’ll see what I can do to make it happen. Yours in Koi! Carolyn
See the American Goldfish Association’s New Goldfish Standards which will be included as a series throughout the 2015 year. There’s so much to learn! I want to thank Hikari for the wonderful Page 6 Mid-Atlantic Koi
January/February 2015
MAKC
Corporate
Members
Quality Koi Company Nisei Koi Farm 856-299-7564 info@qualitykoi.com
www.qualitykoi.com
www.mazuri.com
Interested in becoming a Corporate Member? Reasonable one time fee for the year – includes a Business Card size ad in all issues in this section and on the MAKC website. Contact Joann Mead at 845-389-5712 or jo_mead@earthlink.net January/February 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 7
Introducing Marudo Yorijo Farm Courtesy of Hikari USA
ontinuing our conversations with a number of leading Koi breeders to report their farming objectives, this time we visited the Marudo Yorijo facility, which is famous for raising jumbo Koi. We interviewed the farm's third generation farmer, Toshihiro Hirasawa, with great anticipation and excitement because of this farm’s outstanding success.
C
About Marudo Yorijo History The farm is located in Ojiya City near Yamakoshi, the cradle of Niigata Nishikigoi and covers approximately 5 hectares of land. The second generation farmer, Hisashi Hirasawa opened the farm after being trained by Dainichi Yorijo. He and his son, Toshihiro, work together and they Page 8 Mid-Atlantic Koi
January/February 2015
recently celebrated their 35th anniversary. They raise Kohaku, Sanke and Showa along with the Asagi and Hikarimono varieties. Their specialty is the Showa Sanshoku. Training under Dainichi Yorijo for 18 years Hisashi Hirasawa acquired his Koi breeding skills working under Dainichi Yorijo for as many as 18 years. During his training he gained insight in to the importance of Koi confirmation and the quality of the Hi for which Marudo Yorijo was highly regarded. Toshihiro Hirasawa says his favorite variety is the Taisho Sanshoku and he takes great pride when they can raise a perfectly finished nishikigoi. This is Toshihiro Hirasawa's unforgettable Taisho Sanshoku. The Kuchibeni Hi marking make this an exceptional example of his efforts. It has won the Prefectural Governor's award for two consecutive years at the 35th and 36th Niigata Nogyosai.
January/February 2015
Marudo Brand Koi making their way into Foreign Markets Their exports to foreign countries have recently grown at a rapid pace and presently as much as 90 percent of their production is exported, with the EU and China being primary destinations for their fish. Their annual Koi production is also rapidly increasing as a result of their hard work. It’s important to note that foreign farmers are also making strides to increase their output and quality. This makes international competitions more and more competitive and requires a keen focus to produce first-rate Koi that clearly identify them as genuine Japanese Nishikigoi.
The Production Style of Marudo Yorijo Q: What is your breeding policy? When choosing parent Koi, we don't adhere to any specific lineages. We are trying to cross the best of various bloodlines so that we can get
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 9
offspring with exceptional potential. More importantly, we always search out female parent Koi with a large build and lustrous skin, and a male partner with additional characteristics to compensate for any shortcomings of the female. Crossing of a splendid female and male doesn't always produce outstanding offspring. Our keen eye cultivated and developed through years of experience helps us identify candidates to meet our goals. Technically speaking, we’ve found frequent feeding with careful observation is also an important practice that brings us success. In Japan, August and September are very important months to make our Koi grow rapidly, during this period we primarily feed them with SakiHikari® Growth Diet sinking type. We work diligently to develop Koi with a stout build and qualified Hi markings, and are constantly working to improve our processes to develop that “ideal” specimen. Page 10 Mid-Atlantic Koi
We use large-scale, natural field ponds in the mountains of Ojiya with help from the farm members residing there. This combination of natural environment and superior care help us grow the first-class Koi we are known for.
Our idea of the ideal Koi food Q: Which Koi food do you feel is best suited for your farming activities? We look for foods that will help our Koi gain flesh, brightness of color and luster. We believe there are several important factors that bring about half of our ultimate success; breeding skills, water quality control, parent Koi selection and so on. The other half directly relates to the quality of the food we feed our parent Koi and offspring. Fortunately for us, we have the option to choose from a large variety of Koi to cross and foods to use to meet our objectives. Consequently, the capability of a Koi farmer directly relates to his ability to practice and maintain his breeding skills and water quality. January/February 2015
I always ask food manufacturers for food rich in variety to give us as many options as possible to bring about the result we desire. In the past, we had tried many different Koi foods, but unfortunately none of them helped us achieve a satisfactory result. As a result, we switched all of our feedings to Saki-Hikari® this year. I found it to be a reliable food because I saw the growth of our Koi was more even and they gained flesh ideally. We also found the amount of their excrement decreased and it saved us a great deal of trouble cleaning. Until now, I have been looking for a more powerful color enhancing diet than ever before to create the ideal Marudo Kohaku. Fortunately, Hikari® released an extreme color enhancing diet “Saki-Hikari® Deep Red™” that is ideal to meet our demand and we are readily feeding it now. I am really excited about the future potential of our Koi using it! !
January/February 2015
Join or Renew Your Membership Submit Your MAKC Membership Form by printing out page 39 and mailing it in. Do it today, it only takes a couple of minutes.
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 11
Creating the Perfect Aquatic Turtle Habitat by Lisa Burns, Backyard Getaway Photos by Mike Biancardi
quatic turtles make a wonderful addition to an outdoor pond but before you run to the pet store to pick out your new pet, it is important to make sure your turtle's new home is properly equipped to keep him healthy and happy. As with any new pet, be sure to research proper care and feeding requirements as well as temperament and living habits.
A
aquatic and land plants and occasionally a treat of shrimp or cucumbers. Adding commercial turtle pellets to the diet is fine but should not be the only source of nutrition. If you have Koi or Goldfish in your pond, the turtles may nip at their fins or even eat small fish, but as long as the fish are larger than the turtle there should not be an issue.
The most popular and hardy aquatic turtle is the Red-eared slider (Trachemys scripta elegans). The Red-eared slider is a semi-aquatic turtle that spends the majority of time in the water only coming out to bask in the sun or to lay eggs. You can identify the Red-eared slider by the red stripe on each side of the head. They are very quick both in and out of the water. Generally, the female will grow up to 12Ë? in length while the male is slightly smaller growing up to 10Ë? in length and can live up to 30 years if cared for properly.
Feeding Time
Proper Living Environment
Aquatic turtles are omnivores and require a varied diet of plants and animal materials such as fish, tadpoles, snails, crickets, mealworms,
Water quality is of utmost importance. The proper sized filtration system takes into consideration the gallons of water in the pond and the
Page 12 Mid-Atlantic Koi
January/February 2015
fish/turtle load. Perform water changes on a regular basis and maintain water temperature at around 78-82° F. Submersible and in line heaters are available to help maintain the water temperature in the winter. Since aquatic turtles spend the majority of the time in the water a large surface area is preferable and should include a shallow wading area that slopes down to a depth of 2´. Turtles enjoy spending time basking in the sun so be sure to include a “beach” area out of the water which can also be used by the female for egg laying. Adding an aquatic plant bog will help to create a more natural environment. Keep in mind the turtles may eat some of the plants so be sure to only include plants that are not toxic. If you do not want your turtles to wander off installing a fence or creating a rock wall will help to keep them confined.
Common Misconceptions Turtles hibernate in winter. Truth is turtles do not hibernate they brumate, which means they become less active when the temperature drops below 50 degrees. They will occasionally come up for food and sun. In Florida, you will notice your turtle will become active as soon as the weather warms up and return to brumation when a cold snap returns. Another misconception is that only turtles carry salmonella. All reptiles and amphibians carry salmonella. Following good hygiene rules will greatly reduce the risk. Of course, careful handling, cleaning and hand washing is important when handling any animal. ! Lisa Burns of Backyard Getaway our website is backyardgetaway.net. Photos by Mike Biancardi, Long Island Chapter Member
January/February 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 13
It's as easy as A B C . . . Pond Basic Concepts . . .
The Nitrogen Cycle by Ed Keene (DCAS) Adapted for Ponds by Carolyn Weise
he nitrogen cycle, commonly referred to as the 'new pond syndrome', describes the period in which ammonia and nitrite levels increase to very dangerous levels before being converted into less harmful nitrate. In reality it is the breakdown of toxic wastes by bacteria via biological filtration. Basically what occurs is that ammonia is converted to nitrites and then the nitrites are converted to nitrates. Many first time pond owners fail as a direct result of not understanding the nitrogen cycle. All the fish in their pond may die; the water turns a milky white color, and smells terrible. An understanding of the nitrogen cycle will better enable you to avoid this sometimes costly mistake.
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A misconception among some individuals is that because their pond has been sitting for several days, they don't have to go through the new pond syndrome or nitrogen cycle. The nitrogen cycle does not only occur in 'new' ponds - new being a pond you just installed and filled with water. Anytime an unused pond is being established and fish are added, the nitrogen cycle will take place. This brings to mind another important point. The nitrogen cycle does not begin until fish are added to the pond. I have heard of some people setting up their ponds and leaving them run for several weeks before adding any fish, only to be surprised that their pond still goes through the nitrogen cycle. As strange as it might seem, fish produce ammonia and ammonia is highly toxic to them. They excrete it directly from their gills. Fish waste, pee and poop, in addition to decaying January/February 2015
surplus food, contribute to the buildup of ammonia in the pond. This is not a big deal, nor an item of concern when the fish are living in the oceans, rivers, streams, etc., as there is enough water to dilute the toxins in the water. The toxins are diluted to the point that they do not harm the fish. However, you do not have an ocean full of water in your pond to take care of this for you. The toxic waste builds up very rapidly in newly established ponds. Thank goodness for the nitrogen cycle. This is the toxic dilution process in our ponds and the process by which ammonia is converted to nitrites and then the nitrites are converted to nitrates. One thing to keep in mind during the nitrogen cycle, the fish will be stressed most of the time, so don't be alarmed when you see this. Some of the signs of stress you might observe during the nitrogen cycle will be very rapid breathing, not eating well, and being very high strung and/or jumpy. Keep in mind that during the nitrogen cycle process, the water quality is very poor due to the very high levels of toxins. There are two forms of bacteria that aid the nitrogen cycle, and both exist in the air we breathe. They are the Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter types of bacteria. The Nitrosomonas bacteria convert the highly toxic ammonia to less toxic nitrite. The Nitrobacter bacteria then converts the less toxic nitrite to even less toxic nitrate. I will here remark, however, that a large buildup of either nitrate or nitrite will prove toxic to your fish and will lead to catastrophic results. This nitrogen cycle process does a wonderful job of diluting and eliminating the major portion of these toxic wastes for us. The Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 15
bad news is that it does not happen overnight. In order to establish and then complete this entire process, or cycle it, will take anywhere from 2 weeks to mayhaps as long as approximately 6 weeks. The pond is completely 'cycled' when there is a complete buildup of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria. In other words, you can no longer detect the presence of ammonia and/or nitrite in the pond water with your test kit. So, how do you make all this happen? Well, there are 2 things which you have to provide, and then the nitrogen cycle will actually start and then build upon itself. Let's take a closer look. The first thing you need to provide is a fully set up pond. Once your pond has been set up to your personal liking with filters, aeration, decorations, lights, etc., simply fill it with water and turn on your filtration system. You have completed your first step. The second thing you need to provide is a few fish for your pond. A word of caution here I said a few fish, not enough fish to fully stock your pond. The general rule of thumb for a fully stocked pond is one inch of fish (full grown size) per 10 gallons of water. For example, in a 2,000 gallon pond, you could have up to 200 inches of full grown fish. When starting the nitrogen cycle, however, the one inch per 10-gallon rule does not apply. Instead you should only stock the pond with approximately % of the total number of inches of fish your pond will hold when fully stocked. In our 2,000 gallon pond example you should only have 1/10 of 200 inches of fish, or no more than 20 inches (or less) of fish to start cycling the pond. (When dealing with Koi, please keep in mind their full size at maturity.) The fish you select to start your nitrogen cycle should be hardy fish and ones that you will want to keep in your pond after the nitrogen cycle has been completed. You may want to avoid using goldfish - even if the store owner recommends them. And you want to definitely make sure you Page 16 Mid-Atlantic Koi
select healthy (inexpensive) fish. Once you have selected, purchased, and added the nitrogen cycle ‘starter fish’ to your pond, you are done with step two. The rest happens naturally. Feed the fish sparingly, but do feed them every day or at least every other day. Remember, the more fish eat, the more they pee and poop. Fish naturally produce ammonia through their gills and pee, poop, and food waste will only create additional ammonia. The last thing you want to do is have an over-abundance of ammonia in the pond. The ammonia will begin to build up in the pond almost immediately. As I mentioned earlier, the Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter types of bacteria exist in the air. As the ammonia builds up, the Nitrosomonas bacteria in the air are attracted to it, and they begin to form small colonies within the pond. Despite their presence, they cannot yet control the amount of ammonia in the pond and the ammonia level will continue to rise. After approximately one week, the Nitrosomonas bacteria will have multiplied enough to safely control and maintain the amount of ammonia being produced in the pond. The way that the Nitrosomonas bacteria control and maintain the ammonia is by converting it to less toxic nitrite. When the Nitrosomonas bacteria have become well established, the ammonia level will decrease and the nitrite level will increase. Although less toxic, in large quantities nitrite is highly toxic. As the nitrite begins to build up in the pond, the Nitrobacter bacteria in the air become attracted to it. They too, will begin to form small colonies within the pond, and in their case, they control and maintain the nitrite level. The Nitrobacter bacteria will not appear until the nitrite level gets high and it will take some time for them to multiply to the point where they can control and maintain the amount of nitrites being produced. Generally speaking, it might be another two to three weeks before the Nitrobacter bacteria is well established to the January/February 2015
point where they can keep the nitrite level at a minimum, if not completely eliminate it. The way that the Nitrobacter bacteria control and maintain the nitrite is by converting it to even less toxic nitrate. When the Nitrobacter bacteria have become well established, the nitrite level will decrease and the nitrate level will increase. You can verify when the nitrogen cycle is complete by testing the water for the ammonia level, the nitrite level, and the nitrate level. When complete, your test kits should not be able to detect the presence of ammonia or nitrites. You will however detect nitrate. Nitrate will continue to build up, and unfortunately, there is not a bacterium to get rid of it. So how do you get rid of the nitrate? You don't!! Its presence is always detectable; however, it can be and in fact must be diluted! This becomes your responsibility. The way you dilute the nitrate level is by making water changes on a regular basis - at least every two to three weeks. Once you believe the nitrogen cycle has completed, wait a week or two just to be certain before adding any additional fish. When you begin to increase the population of fish in the pond, and I cannot stress this point enough, do so in moderation. I would suggest you only add up to two inches of new fish every 1 1/2 to 2 weeks. Using our 2,000 gallon pond example, it may take you several months to get the pond fully stocked. Why, you ask? The quantities of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria are directly proportional to the amount of toxic waste they need to control. When adding new fish, there will be an increase in the amount of ammonia being produced in the pond. The ammonia level will begin to rise and continue to do so until such time as the Nitrosomonas bacteria can multiply and keep up with the new ammonia level. Once the ammonia level gets under control, the nitrite level will begin to rise. Now the Nitrobacter bacteria need to multiply to catch up. By virtue of building up the fish popuJanuary/February 2015
lation little by little, the bacteria have a chance to keep up with the increase of toxic wastes. If you increase the population of your pond too fast, that is, faster than the two types of bacteria can keep up with, you will end up destroying the bacteria cultures which had been created to this point. If you find yourself in this situation, you very well may be left with no alternative other than to begin the nitrogen cycle all over again, beginning from day one. Trust me; this is one situation you will want to avoid. During the several weeks' time it takes to complete the nitrogen cycle, it is important to constantly monitor the ammonia level, the nitrite level, and the nitrate level. Test kits will prove to be very worthwhile. You will see the ammonia level constantly increase until the Nitrosomonas bacteria can multiply and get it under control. At that time you will see the ammonia level begin to decrease and the nitrite level increase. The nitrite level will continue to increase until the Nitrobacter bacteria can multiply and get it under control. At that time you will see the nitrite level begin to decrease and the nitrate level increase. Pay particular attention as to how fast the various levels increase. If any one of these is found to be fast approaching the highly toxic level, as indicated by the test kits, you must intercede by performing a water change. The water change will remove some of the good bacteria you are trying to establish which in turn means the nitrogen cycle may take longer to complete. However, the good news is that you also will be diluting the toxins in your pond, thereby preventing the immediate deaths of your starter fish. Remember to treat the new water with some type of additive to neutralize the chlorine (if you use city water) before you add it to the pond. In Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 17
addition to being toxic to the fish, the chlorine is also liable to kill the major portion of the bacteria which has been established thus far in the pond. In addition to performing water changes, there are products which can be purchased in your local fish store to neutralize the ammonia if it reaches too high of a level. Inquire about these products at your local fish store. The store personnel should be able to point out several of these products to you.
the bacteria to establish themselves, you can simply buy it and pour it into the pond.
Well, there you have it - the nitrogen cycle. Or do you? The answer is yes, if done in a natural way. There are ways to speed up the process, and I'll explain a couple of them. Although you will still have to go through the nitrogen process, these short cuts will reduce the full cycle time.
You can purchase a sponge filter and just let it lay around in the established pond. After a few days, lots of bacteria will have attached themselves to it. Simply place the sponge filter into your new pond. Or you could remove some gravel or filter media from the established pond and place that into your new one. In all of these examples involving an established pond, you are basically transferring some of the bacteria from it to the new pond. !
Most good fish stores carry products which are basically 'bottled bacteria'. One of the goals of the nitrogen cycle is to establish the two good bacteria types. Well, now instead of waiting for
Page 18 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Another method requires that you have, or at least have access to, an established pond. By that I mean a pond which has already gone through the nitrogen cycle. Keep in mind that the bacteria attached itself to everything in the pond, including a filter unit which sometimes resides outside of the pond.
January/February 2015
Some Koi Talk - Koi Can Smell and Taste by Don Harrawood, KHA, Texas
Caudal Peduncle
Dorsal Fin
Lateral Line
Nostrils
Anal Fin
Vent
Caudal Fin (Tail Fin) Pelvic or Ventral Fins
id you know that Koi can smell and taste? Koi have an acute sense of smell and, combined with their sense of taste, are the primary senses in locating food in a natural environment, even more so than by their eye sight. If a substance dissolves in water, it has the potential of being detected by smell.
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Did you ever notice the little flaps on each side of a Koi's nose just in front of their eyes? These are organs, called nares, and are used for smell. The cavities can be thought of as "U" tubes in which water enters through the front and exits at the rear. Just behind the forward opening of the cavity is a flap of skin that directs the water into the forward opening and out the rear opening of the nare when the fish is in motion. This flap of skin is most noticeable on butterfly Koi. Taste buds are numerous on and around the lips, mouth, and tips of the barbels. Koi have two sets January/February 2015
Pectoral Fins
Barbels (Two Pairs)
of barbels (whiskers) that can be used to distinguish them from goldfish and other species.
The Lateral Line Did you ever notice that when one of your Koi spooks, they all do? This is because Koi have a very keen sense of water motion. Koi have what is known as the "lateral line." The lateral line is a line of scales from head to tail located midway along the side of the fish. Holes in these scales lead to a canal beneath the surface that contains a mucus substance. Water movement in any direction striking the sides of the fish will cause the mucus in the canal to vibrate. These vibrations stimulate the cells that are linked to the nerve system and provide one of the most effective perceptions for survival known as "flight reaction." It should be noted that in some "scale less" Koi there may not be any scales along the lateral line. These fish have the holes in the skin along the lateral line that perform the same function. ! Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 19
Koi Emergency Care Kit Contents, Price and Where to Buy by Jack Chapman, KHA, California Courtesy of the Inland Koi Society
Item
Cost
Store
Bio Bandage (Powder)Aquarium Solutions®
$14.95
Inland Koi-Riverside
Pure Clove Oil (100%) Now® Essential oils brand
$7.49
GNC-Riverside
Betadine (10% Providone iodine topical solution)
$7.29
Target-Riverside
Hydrogen Peroxide – 3% solution
$1.04
Target-Riverside
Alcohol – 90% solution
$3.04
Target-Riverside
Rubber gloves or plastic disposable gloves
$4.79
Target-Riverside
Cotton balls
$2.99
Target-Riverside
Cotton swabs – Qtips
$2.69
Target-Riverside
Basket to hold the contents
$3.49
Target-Riverside
Safety glasses (plastic poly carbonate)
$7.99
Target- Riverside
Lysol No-Rinse Sanitizer to sterilize the net after each use
$12.79
Smart & Final Riverside
Total Price
$55.98
Page 20 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Other items you should have on-hand: • Old, clean cotton towels (bath, hand and wash rag) • Tweezers, forceps, scissors, blade (Exacto knife or single edged razor blade) • Rectangular tub or 6˝ high storage container to contain fish • Net to corral your Koi • Air pump with hose and air stone • Journal to record what you saw and what you did and any changes in the Koi • Koi sock net, plastic Koi transport bag to move your Koi • Your Koi club’s KHA phone number • Your local Koi vet’s phone number ! January/February 2015
What’s the Danger? by Carolyn Weise, Florida
know the economy is tough, but to save costs by going out to where you know someone has previously dumped Koi into a waterway (which should be against the law!) and then bringing this wild-caught fish back to ones pond is just wrong. The “wrong” in this case is what you will be exposing your pond fish to when bringing ANYTHING (plants, rocks, fish, etc) in from the wild without proper sanitization and exposing your unsuspecting Koi to it.
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In the wild, animals (including fish and amphibians) have a much shorter life span and learn to live with parasites, pathogens and dangers your pond should never be subjected to in their lifetime. Yes, we do have to fend off raccoons, otters, herons and such, from time to time. However, your fish do not live with these predators on a daily basis. Nor do they live with the levels of water pollution, food deprivation and nutritional inadequacies nature provides. Yet, the wild ones will exist long enough to reproduce… and the species live on.
by introducing it to your pond without proper precautions and quarantine, you will bring all the hitchhikers, too. In an environment such as your pond, these pathogens have no enemies to keep the numbers down. They will proliferate in a crowded pond and can wipe out your entire population. Do we not spend summers fighting algae? Well, by bringing one nicely shaped or colored rock to the pond and not sanitizing it well before adding it, you should expect the rock to introduce several new varieties of algae for the coming season(s). Most forms of algae are spread by spores and hold-fasts and these can be found on rocks and plants. They can even travel to your pond on fish, especially coming from the wild. How about a lovely piece of driftwood? That would look really nice in the shallow of my pond. It would, but unless you have done the work in sanitizing it, too, it will bring more than just beauty to the pond. Remember, anything you collect out there is the potential time-bomb. If you purchase it at a reputable dealer, on the other hand, you can feel safe that it has already been cleaned and will be ready for the pond. !
We spend inordinate amounts of time filtering and monitoring water quality and overstock our ponds, while our wild friends live in sparsely populated substandard conditions. They are familiar with the existential parasites in these places and learn not to complain. They are predators of some and predated upon by others. When you catch and scrape a wild fish, you will find a myriad of infectious pathogens that are carried on the body of these animals. So, January/February 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 21
How to Sedate a Fish with Tricaine-S (TMS, MS-222) or Clove Oil by Betty Harris and Joann Mead ometimes it's necessary to sedate a fish to perform a procedure such as cleaning an ulcer or fin rot. You can sedate larger fish with either clove oil or Tricaine-S (TMS, MS-222). These procedures can also be done without sedation, though it's more stressful for you and for the fish and you really have to be careful and not let the fish get away from you.
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•
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To Sedate with Tricaine-S: Things you will need: • Tricaine-S (TMS,MS-222)- to sedate the fish, so you can treat it. Available from Western Chemicals. • Baking soda (to buffer the Tricaine-S solution) • Clean Towel and pillowcase • 2 Buckets one for sedation and one to transport fish back to its tank/pond/pond • Airstone Instructions • Set up your work area and make sure everything is very clean. o Lay out a towel and one of those hospital blue pads. a pillowcase on top would also work (it's smoother than the towel) o Lay out your other materials within easy reach • Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of Tricaine-S and 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda per gallon of water used in your sedation bucket. Use water from the tank/pond if possible and match tank/pond temperature. • Place fish in the solution. When it turns over on its side and gill movements slow, remove it from the solution and perform the Page 22 Mid-Atlantic Koi
•
•
procedure. If the fish doesn't roll over in 10 minutes, you can add another 1/8 teaspoon of Tricaine-S and baking soda per gallon (Use some of your existing water to dissolve it in and make sure it disperses well when added to the sedation bucket). You will want to work quickly and finish the procedure you're performing as quickly as possible. Make sure you keep one hand on the fish at all times in case he starts flopping around. Don't want any falls off the counter! After you've finished the procedure, place the fish in a bucket of clean water and return him to the tank/pond. You may need to hold the fish for a little while in an area where fresh water is moving through its gills (e.g. by the outflow of the filter) until he gets less groggy.
To Sedate with Clove Oil: Things you will need: • Clove Oil - to sedate the fish, so you can treat it. You should be able to find some at a pharmacy (look in the toothache section). PondRx also carries it. • Clean Towel and pillowcase • 2 Buckets one for sedation and one to transport fish back to its tank/pond • Airstone Instructions • Set up your work area and make sure everything is very clean. o Lay out a towel and one of those hospital blue pads. a pillowcase on top would also work (it's smoother than the towel) o Lay out your other materials within easy reach January/February 2015
• Place 5 drops of clove oil and some water in a ziplock freezer bag for every gallon of water needed to submerge the fish. • Shake well, then pour into container where fish will be sedated. Use water from the tank/pond if possible and match tank/pond temperature. An airstone would help to keep the mixture dispersed. • Place fish in the solution. When it turns over on its side and gill movements slow, remove it from the solution, perform the procedure. If the fish doesn't roll over in 5 minutes, then add another drop per gallon (shake it up in water before adding). • You will want to work quickly and finish the procedure you're performing as quickly as possible. • Make sure you keep one hand on the fish at all times in case he starts flopping around. Don't want any falls off the counter! • After you're done place the fish in a bucket of clean water and return him to the tank/pond.
January/February 2015
• You may need to hold the fish for a little while in an area where fresh water is moving through its gills (e.g. by the outflow of the filter) until he gets less groggy.
To perform a procedure without sedation: Procedures can also be done without sedating the fish, however, care must be taken to make sure fish doesn't get away from you and take a fall. It will be more stressful for the fish without sedation. Place a heavy towel dampened with cold tap water as your base and then place another heavy cold tap water dampened towel over the fish covering the head but leaving the areas you're working on exposed. This will help to keep the fish from flopping around and may help to keep them calm. Keep one hand on the fish at all times. Be sure to have everything that you need laid out ahead of time. !
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 23
Win a Free MAKC Membership for the 2015/2016 Year! So how do you enter to win a free MAKC membership for the 2015/2016 year? Just mail in an original sale receipt dated from June 1, 2014 thru March 31, 2015 for any products or services from any of the vendors who advertise in the MAKC magazine! Mail the original receipts along with your name, address, phone number and email address to: MAKC PO Box 91 Ulster Park, NY 12487 There is NO limit to the number of entries you can submit! Entries must be postmarked by April 5, 2015 in order to be eligible. The drawing will be held on Sunday, April 19, 2015.
Page 24 Mid-Atlantic Koi
January/February 2015
Pentair Aquatic Eco-Systems Acquires PR Aqua Supplies, LTD Sanford, N.C., December 15, 2014 – Pentair Aquatic Eco-Systems (Canada), Inc. announced today it has acquired PR Aqua Supplies Ltd., a leading aquaculture design and equipment provider based in Nanaimo, BC, Canada. PR Aqua produces integrated water treatment and fish handling solutions for a variety of applications, including Recirculating Aquaculture Systems (RAS). RAS is an emerging technology in Aquaculture that allows for intensive land based production. “The addition of PR Aqua complements our ability to meet the increasing market demand for cutting edge technology, equipment and engineered solutions as a comprehensive single
January/February 2015
source provider,” said Karl Frykman, President of Pentair’s Aquatic Systems. ABOUT PENTAIR AQUATIC SYSTEMS Pentair Aquatic Systems provides leading edge equipment, accessories and water technology solutions to the swimming pool, aquaculture and environmental water monitoring industries. Aquatic Systems produces a broad line of products from pumps and filtration equipment to thermal products, automated controls, lights, automatic cleaners, water purification and treatment technology, UV sterilizers, electromagnetic flow meters, irrigation controls, and more. Applications for Aquatic Systems products include maintenance, repair and renovation of existing in-field equipment, as well as planning and engineered solutions for new installations in North America, Europe, and emerging markets such as China, Latin America and other countries.
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 25
On the Road to a Koi Event February 13-15 The Valley of the Sun Koi Club’s Annual Koi Show Held in Phoenix, Arizona in conjunction with the Greater Phoenix Chinese Week. www.vskc.net
March 7-8 Koi Club of San Diego 28th Koi Show San Diego, held at the Del Mar Fairgrounds www.koiclubofsandiego.org
March 13-15 Central Florida Koi Show Held at the International Palms Resort & Conference Center on International Drive, Orlando, FL. http://cfks.org
May 22-14 Greater Louisville Koi & Goldfish Society Annual Show Memorial Day Weekend www.louisvillekoiclub.com/annual_show.html
June 26-28 Midwest Pond & Koi Society Koi and Goldfish Show & Tradeshow
Welcome New Vice Presidents I am pleased to announce that Alan Mickelson of Maryland has accepted the Vice President’s position of the South Chapter of the MidAtlantic Koi Club (MAKC). The MAKC South Chapter covers the areas of Maryland, Washington DC, Virginia and West Virginia. I am pleased to also announce that Bruce Damme of Delaware has accepted the Vice President’s position of the Central Chapter of the MAKC.. The MAKC Central Chapter covers the areas of Pennsylvania, South New Jersey, and Delaware. In the spring we will have meetings for the Central and South Chapter members. If you wish to host a meeting please let me know. If you do host a meeting you can be reimbursed up to $50.00 for food and drink. We are very fortunate to have Alan and Bruce leading the MAKC Chapters. Please join me in congratulating them.
Joann Mead MAKC President
Held at the Darien Sportsplex. http://www.mpks.org/ Have an upcoming Koi event, please send the information to makcmag@makc.com. We will be glad to include it in future articles. Don’t forget your own MAKC Club has events coming up that can be found in our digital magazine or at www.makc.com. We always need volunteers for meetings and shows. It is amazing how much you can learn by helping. Take advantage of being an MAKC member and participate in the club events. See you soon at a Koi event. ❖ Page 26 Mid-Atlantic Koi
Treasurer’s Report Submitted by Anthony Vitale, New York Checking Balance
$18,234.49
Saving Balance
$6,324.19
Club Total Balance As if December 31, 2014
$24,558.68 ❖
January/February 2015
M A KC Me e t i ng s an d Eve nt s Saugerties Chapter Meetings
Chapter Vice Presidents
No meetings scheduled for January, February and March 2015. However, we MAY BE invited back to Adams for a workshop. We will update you when we know.
Central Chapter
First Meeting will be held on: April 19 All meetings are on Sundays from 3-5 p.m. Future meetings May 17, June 14, July 19, August 16, Sept 20, Oct 18, Nov 15, and Dec 13. Dec 13, 2015 is our annual Christmas Social Event at the home of Herb & RoseMarie Ehrich. Contact Herb Ehrich for further information about upcoming meetings - email Herb at koiking15@yahoo.com â?–
MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers Tom Burton
Middletown, NJ
Bruce Damme 302-598-8431 Drbdamme@windcrestanimal.com
Long Island Chapter Bruce Levine 516-477-1823 kuba1953@aol.com
Saugerties Chapter Herb Ehrich 845-247-7105 koiking15@yahoo.com
South Chapter Alan Mickelson 301-332-7042 alanmickelson@msn.com
732-671-7045
Jan & Bill Fogle Wayne, PA
610-687-3105
Terri Janas
Ashburn, VA
703-729-2988
Jeff Nicholson
Odenton, MD
301-912-1928
Check back in the next issue for upcoming meetings and events. !
All members have microscopes and health books. In the event of a recorded message, please suggest a time when you're home to receive a return call or when you'd like to call back.
Send your meeting and event information to Carolyn Weise
Please remember that advice is given based on your input–the ultimate responsibility and treatment must remain with you.
Deadline February 1st for the March 2015 issue.
January/February 2015
makcmag@makc.com
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 27
Beginner’s Corner
Sunshine Column
Ask a question and we will get you an answer. Hope you all had a very good holiday! Remember any questions you have are welcome, Just send them in to the editor.
Question - Zeolite Are you using zeolite in your pond? If you are, pay attention to this:
Answer Zeolite clay is very effective in removing ammonia from pond water. Zeolite can be purchased at many aquatic products stores; however, they seldom tell you of the dangers of using zeolite. In the pond, zeolite removes ammonia through ion exchange. It releases sodium chloride (salt) into the water and absorbs toxic ammonia. The danger here is if the pond owner adds salt to treat for parasites without removing the zeolite, the salt then is absorbed by the zeolite causing it to release all the ammonia that it has absorbed. This spike of ammonia can be enough to be very toxic to fish. Don’t forget to remove zeolite from your pond before adding salt. Some pond owners have lost their entire collection of Koi by adding salt while using zeolite. Zeolite can be “re-charged” by removing it from the pond and placing it into a container containing 3.5% to 4.0% salt water (3.5 to 4.0 pounds salt per10 gallons water). After 24 hours, rinse well and return it to the pond where it will again release sodium chloride and absorb toxic ammonia. ! By Don Harrawood, KHA
e wish Mike Biancardi prayers and well wishes for a speedy recovery since he's had so many health challenges in 2014. He had to have his shoulder totally replaced and is looking at the other one now; has had hospitalization for prostrate surgery, infections, and is has to have Carpal Tunnel surgery on both hands. The beautiful thing about Mike is his positive attitude through it all! He wants to do something for MAKC, his L.I. chapter, his friends. He sent in the turtle pictures (from his pond) for one of our articles this month. Please send him a note to let him know we have not forgotten him as he goes through more surgeries and recoveries. He sends his blessings to our new president and leaders. Hurry and get well, Mike! Your pond needs you.
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Send submissions for our Sunshine Column to Carolyn Weise, Editor makcmag@makc.com ❖
Wanted – Your Questions Please email your questions to makcmag@makc.com.
Note: This column offers suggestions only; the ultimate care of your pond and fish is up to you. Page 28 Mid-Atlantic Koi
January/February 2015
Word Search Parasites and Treatments by Jo Mead, New York
AERATION
FLUKES
MALACHITE GREEN
SALT
ARGULUS
FORMALIN
MEDIGOLD
SAPROLEGNIA
BRANCHIOMYCES
HEAT
MEDIKOI
SPRINGVIREMIA
CHILODONELLA
HEXAMITA
MICROSCOPE
TRICHODINA
COSTIA
ICH
PEROXIDE
DIMILIN
KHV
QUARANTINE
January/February 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 29
he American Goldfish Association just released their Revised Goldfish Standards. Starting with this issue we will include the new standards for your review. We will start with the Basic Goldfish Characteristics and Standards.
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Basic Goldfish Characteristics 1. Scalation/Scale types – Four basic types of scalation occur in goldfish: metallic, matte, nacreous and Pearlscale. Page 30 Mid-Atlantic Koi
a. Metallic – Has a shiny, reflective appearance, much like a metal object, hence the name metallic. The shiny appearance is caused by the presence of guanine in the scale. b. Matte – Scales which lack the reflective guanine layer, leading to a dull or nonreflective appearance. c. Nacreous – A scale type which combines characteristics of the metallic and matte scale patterns, often in random proportions, causing a mixture of January/February 2015
reflective and non-reflective scales on a fish. d. Pearl Scale - An encrustation on each scale of the fish, causing the scale to appear to have a miniature dome in the center. In the best specimens, the pearling occurs over the body of the fish, and wraps around the entire fish completely. 2. Colors – Goldfish come in a number of distinct colors, including combinations of colors. Common goldfish colors include the following: red, orange, white, black, blue, chocolate brown, yellow, red and white, black and red, black red and white, calico (a combination of colors usually including red, white, black and blue). 3. Eyes – Goldfish have several different eyetypes, as follows: a. Normal eye types b. Telescope eyes – eyes which are mounted atop a cone-shaped protrusion on either side of the head. c. Celestial eyes – Similar to a telescopeeyed goldfish, but the eyes are pointing upward at the end of the “telescope” feature d. Bubble Eyes – the eyes of a bubble-eyed goldfish are actually considered of the normal type. The distinguishing feature of this fish is the large, fluidfilled sack, which forms on each side of the face, directly underneath the eye of the fish. 4. Tail types – Goldfish have a great deal of variation in the caudal or tail fin, as outlined below. a. Single tail – The most common form of tail type, which is moderately forked, and rounded at the edges. b. Comet tail – longer than the single tail variety (about 2 – 3 times longer), with a marked forking, and pointed tail tips. c. Shubunkin tail type - There are three separate varieties of Shubunkin tail types, a relatively short tail type, much January/February 2015
like the common goldfish; a relatively long tail type, similar to a comet goldfish, and the Shubunkin tail type, which is rounded at the edges and is heart-shaped. d. Double tail – a tail which has two distinct sets of lobes, and which is not joined along 2/3rds of its length, and which has rounded tail edges. The size of the double tail can range from 2/3rds the length of the body to double the length of the body, depending on the goldfish variety. e. Lionhead or Ranchu tail – Similar to the double tail, but forking is permissible. Generally speaking the double tail of the Ranchu or Lionhead is ¼ to 3/8 the length of the body. f. Tosakin tail a variation on the double tail, which is joined, rounded at the edges, and where the tail tip curves back toward the head, producing a curlicue-type appearance in the tail of the fish. g. Jikin tail – Similar in appearance to the Ranchu or Lionhead tail; when viewed from behind the tail creates four distinct lobes which are held perpendicular to the body and which form an “X” shape. h. Veiltail – A modification of the double tail variety, whereby the tail is ¾ to 2 times the depth of the body, and where the forking is non-existent, producing a tail with a straight edge; hence the name “veil” tail. i. Butterfly tail – A modification of the double tail in the telescope variety, whereby the tail is fully or nearly fully split, appears relatively flat in side profile, and with a shape which is reminiscent of a butterfly when viewed from the top. 5. Head Growth – Some varieties of goldfish, including the Oranda, Lionhead and Ranchu have a growth on the head known Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 31
as a “wen.” This growth looks like a raspberry, and causes a distinct appearance, similar to a lion’s mane, when viewed on the fish. Several varieties of head growth are recognized. a. Goose head – growth limited primarily to the top of the head, with little or no “wen” occurring on the cheeks or opercula. b. Tiger head – head growth, which appears on the top of the head and on the cheeks of the fish. c. Lionhead – Full head growth, which appears on the top of the head, cheeks, and opercula. 6. Dorsal fin characteristics – the fin located on the back of the fish is known as the dorsal fin. In some varieties (Ranchu, Lionhead, Celestial, Bubbleye and Phoenix), the dorsal fin is not present. The dorsal-less varieties can be further sub-divided into the Ranchu and Lionhead type of back profile. a. In the Side view Ranchu type back profile, the back is gently arched, until it reaches the caudal peduncle, when it sharply angles downward and meets the tail at a 45 degree angle. b. In the Lionhead type back profile (which is also shared with the Celestial, Bubbleye and Phoenix), the back is less arched than that of the Ranchu, and joins the tail at an angle that is much less severe than in the Ranchu-type tail. 7. Other growth characteristics of goldfish. Goldfish have been selectively bred for growth characteristics over the centuries. A partial listing of these characteristics appears below. a. Narial bouquets (pom-poms or pompons) – a tuft-like series of growth appearing on the narial area (nose) of the fish, which in fully developed specimens resembles a cheerleader’s pom-pom. Page 32 Mid-Atlantic Koi
b. Pearlscale – an encrustation on each scale of the fish, causing the scale to appear to have a miniature dome in the center. In the best specimens, the pearling occurs over the body of the fish, and wraps around the entire fish completely. c. Out-turned operculum – a fish with the gill-plates turned-over, so that the gills are revealed. 8. Body shape characteristics – Body shape characteristics are varied among goldfish types, and are difficult to succinctly categorize, since body shapes can vary within the same variety (as an example, and Oranda may have a fantail or Veiltail body conformation). a. Streamlined body shape – this shape is found on the common goldfish, Shubunkin, and Comet varieties. It is the basic torpedo shape common to most types of fish. b. Fantail shape – This body shape is more egg-like, and produces a rounded profile in the fish. This body type is commonly seen in the fantail, some varieties of telescope, some Oranda bodies (especially on the Red Cap), some Pearlscales, and on the Celestial and Bubble-eye. c. Veiltail body type – this body type is similar to that of the Ryukin, without the hump on the back. It is more rounded than that of the fantail, and the body depth is approximately ¼ to 1/3 deeper than that of the traditional fantail. This body type is found on some Telescopes, some Orandas, Pearlscale, Veiltails, and some ribbon tails. d. Lionhead or Side View Ranchu body type – A very rounded body type, with a depth that is ¼ to 1/3 greater than that of the Veiltail variety. The body appears chunky, especially in the area of the caudal peduncle, which does not January/February 2015
flare out to meet the tail as on most fish, but looks more like a part of the body. The body of a Top View Ranchu is more rectangular in shape and not as rounded as that of a Side View Ranchu e. Other body type – the Wakin, Jikin and Tosakin have distinct body types that do not fit into any other category.
AGA Goldfish Standards Goldfish Varieties are determined by three broad types, as follows:
January/February 2015
• Presence or absence of dorsal fin • Tail/Finnage type • Special variety growth characteristics Classifications are therefore made first by dorsal fin, then by tail type, and finally by special variety growth characteristics (if applicable). The following table (next page) illustrates this concept for the varieties of goldfish recognized by the AGA.
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 33
Variety Name
Variety Growth Characteristic
Dorsal, Y/N
Tail Type
Common
Y
Single
No
Comet
Y
Single
Finnage
Shubunkin Finnage variations: • London Shubunkin • Japanese Shubunkin • Bristol Shubunkin
Y
Single
Finnage
Fantail
Y
Double
No
Pearlscale
Y
Double
Pearl scales
Ryukin Finnage variations: • Short • Medium • Long
Y
Double
Humped back
Oranda
Y
Double
Wen
Veiltail
Y
Double
Finnage
Telescope
Y
Double
Eyes
Celestial
N
Double
Eyes
Bubble eye
N
Double
Eyes
Lionhead
N
Double
Wen
N
Double
Wen, caudal peduncle, tail spread
N
Double
Wen, back profile, tail attachment
Wakin
Y
Double
Body shape
Jikin
Y
Double
Tail, color, body shape
Phoenix
N
Double
Finnage, body shape
Tosakin
Y
Double
Tail, body shape
Ranchu View Variations: • Top View • Side View
Page 34 Mid-Atlantic Koi
January/February 2015
Overall Appreciation of Fish It is the intent of the AGA to foster the appreciation of the overall development of the fish. We encourage our judges to view the fish as a whole, not breaking the fish up into discrete parts for judging. AGA judges review a fish according to the following basic characteristics: • Body style–this refers to one of the five body types, as follows: o Streamlined body Shape o Fantail body shape o Veiltail body shape o Lionhead or Ranchu body shape o Other body shape Since the body shape is so important to the development of a fish, body shapes, which do not conform to the type of fish being judged will result in severe downgrading during judging. • Color–color is often misunderstood when judging goldfish. Generally speaking, goldfish do not have recognized, ordered patterns, as do Koi. When we speak of color in goldfish, we are talking about the intensity and thickness of color. As an example, a fish may look “washed out,” which refers to the thickness of the color on a fish. A “washed out” fish appears to be losing its color, hence the lack of thickness in the color plate. When we speak of intensity, we are referring to the condition of the color and of the skin on the fish, or shine. If a fish is healthy, it possesses a shine or glow that it noticeable to the observer.
• Special variety characteristics–each variety has special characteristics which are unique. The variety characteristics will be described in each individual variety standard. • Deportment and condition–refers to the swimming motion and carriage of the fish in the water. Swimming motion can be affected by the length and condition and angle of fins, the length and placement of the caudal peduncle, and also by the swim bladder. A diseased or injured fish would not be in top condition, and should not be shown. For a fish to be of show quality, proper deportment and condition is essential. For each standard variety type, a line drawing will be provided, as well as color photograph(s) and detailed descriptions of the variety and points of appreciation. To be continued in the next issue. !
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• Finnage–refers to the combination of tail and other fins on the fish. Finnage will be described in more detail under each goldfish variety.
January/February 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 35
F..A..S..T.. Ads – January/February Disclaimer: MAKC and its officers assume no responsibility for claims of advertisers or the quality/serviceability of goods offered.
FOR SALE Remember any MAKC member can list their Koi, pond, or related items for sale here in your magazine at no charge. Please contact Joann today if you have something for sale. BAMBOO. Winter hardy and tropical for indoors. Thinning collection. Reasonable prices. Call Ron Altman, NY 718-442-1673 (Office) or 908-658-3055 (H).
F..A..S..T.. Ads Policy & Deadlines F..A..S..T.. Ads are available FREE to MAKC members only; no commercial ads. Ads are limited to 10 items and must include name, phone number, town and state. Deadline is the 1st of each month. Help do you have an hour or two? We need a volunteer to manage this page. Please contact Joann Mead 845-389-5712 jo_mead@earthlink.net
Page 36 Mid-Atlantic Koi
WANTED KOI. Foster Home. Large natural pond. Happy to accept your overgrown or unwanted “children.” Call Rich Menashe in Metuchen, NJ, 732-767-0720.
KOI. Wanted Healthy Pond Grade KOI over 10˝. Will pay reasonable prices. I have a 750,000 gallon pond and will adopt any unwanted KOI. Call Joseph Pollock in Virginia at 540-788-9222. KOI. Wanted for large deep natural pond next to soon to be built wine tasting room in wine country of Northern Virginia. Happy to accept any and all Koi of any size and color. Stop by and visit them next year when our tasting room opens. Call Mark Malick in Purcellville, VA, 540-270-3399 (cell). KOI BITO MAGAZINES – in good condition. Send list with asking price, or call Roger Klocke 701-491-2803, E-mail at rklockejr@aol.com. Mailing address: Roger Klocke, 4805 Meadow Creek Dr., Fargo, ND 58104. KOI STORE EMPLOYEE. Looking for a knowledgeable Koi and pond hobbyist. Part-time, competitive pay. Outstanding employee discounts! Call John at Blue Ribbon Koi Products. 703-753-7566. MAKC SECRETARY AND MAKC SALES POSITIONS – are open; please contact club president Joann Mead for more information on how you can fill one of these positions. Joann Mead 845-389-5713 or e-mail jo_mead@earthlink.net !
January/February 2015
What would you do to save one of your fish?
Photo provided by the Southwest Koi and Pond Association
Mid-Atlantic Koi Ad Index Hikari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3, 7
Nisei Koi Farm . . . . . . . . . 7, 18
Kodama Koi Farm . . . . . . 7, 23
Pentair Aquatic
Long Island Fish Hospital . . 35
Eco-Systems, Inc. . . . . . 7, 14
Matala USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Quality Koi Company . . . 7, 18
Microbe-Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Total Koi Food . . . . . . . . . .7, 25
Advertise in Mid-Atlantic Koi!
www.makc.com
Ad Rates from $15/issue* for a business card ad to $300/issue* for a full page color ad.
Reach your target audience of Koi keepers & water gardeners each month and leave your competition in the dust!!
Join or Renew Your Membership Submit Your MAKC Membership Form by printing out page 39 and mailing it in. Do it today, it only takes a couple of minutes. January/February 2015
Contact Joann Mead at 845-389-5712 (leave message) or e-mail: jo_mead@earthlink.net to request information on our advertiser packages and/or a copy of our ad rate sheet. *With an annual 10 issue contract.
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 37
Picture to Share –
Doesn’t this look like a piece of jewelry? Photo provided by the Southwest Koi and Pond Association Have a picture to share? Please send them to the Editor, Carolyn Weise. makcmag@makc.com
Page 38 Mid-Atlantic Koi
January/February 2015
January/February 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 39