Mid-Atlantic Koi Magazine May 2015

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Mid~Atlantic Koi The Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club

May 2015

Choosing the PERFECT One


Mid~Atlantic Koi The Membership Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club

Volume 28, Number 9 —Upcoming Events

May 2015 Beginner’s Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Central Chapter Meetings . . . . . . . . .44 Long Island Chapter Meetings . . . . .44 Saugerties Chapter Meetings . . . . . .44 South Chapter Meetings . . . . . . . . . .44

MAKC Corporate Members . . . . . . . . . .8 Introducing Minuma Koi Farm . . . . . . .9 Courtesy of Hikari USA

Koi Anatomy – Part 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

—MAKC News

Spike Cover , California

President’s Message . . . . . . . .4 From the Editor’s Desk . . . . .6

Aquatic Plants for Your Koi Pond . . . .16

MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers . . . . . . . . .7 Sunshine Column . . . . . . . . .42

Filtration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Treasurer’s Report . . . . . . . .43 F..A..S..T Ads . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Ad Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Mid-Atlantic Koi Deadlines for Articles, Meeting Announcements and Ads

KoiCare.com Ed Keene, DCAS

Rainwater Harvesting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Lisa Burns, Backyard Getaway

Kids Building Solar Powered Pond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Member Pond Profile – Barry Hixson .30 Barry Hixson, Pennsylvania

June Issue Deadline: Available Online:

May 1 June 1

Oxygen in Ponds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

July Issue Deadline: Available Online:

June 1 July 1

Christine DeMarfio–Part 2 . . . . . . . . . .36

Ben Helm

Single Tail Fish Shubunkin Goldfish .37 American Goldfish Association

My Journey to Nishikigoi . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Herb Ehrich, Vice-President MAKC

Page 2 Mid-Atlantic Koi

Minuma Koi Farm

On the Road to a Koi Event . . . . . . . . . .43

Photo Provided by Hikari USA

MAKC Membership Application . . . . .48

Picture to Share -Friendship Award . . .47

May 2015



P r e s i d e n t ’s M e s s a g e by Joann Mead Suggestions4MAKC@gmail.com

ow quickly the year has passed and the election for the new 2015/2016 Executive Committee is just around the corner!

H

This means that the club will begin to accept nominations for the following available positions for the President, Vice President, Treasurer, Secretary and Chapter Vice Presidents I want to strongly encourage all members to sincerely consider running for an available position. A Club is made up of its members, and each member along with their respective opinions and skills only strengthens us. Please contact Jo Mead, Nominating Committee at kgwgclub@earthlink.net if you have any questions about the open positions or the nominating process. The deadline for nominations is Sunday, May 10, 2015 Under Maine law Koi are not legal to possess because they are not on the state’s “unrestricted list,” which itemizes what animals that Mainers can own. In March 2015 the State stepped in and seized over 50 Koi from an owner after she lost her appeal with the state in trying to obtain a possession permit for the Koi. Legislation was introduced late March to try to classify Koi as an unrestricted aquarium or pond fish. In New York State Koi and goldfish are now considered a regulated invasive species. Regulated invasive species are species which cannot be knowingly introPage 4 Mid-Atlantic Koi

duced into a free-living state, or introduced by a means that one should have known would lead to such an introduction, although such species shall be legal to possess, sell, buy, propagate and transport. The State has a scoring system to determine if a species is regulated or prohibited. A score above 70 means it is a prohibited species and a score of 50 to 69.99 is regulated. Koi where scored at 90.43 and goldfish where scored at 81.63. In the process there were other factors are taken into consideration like economic importance so that likely saved us.... for now. Rules like this come to exist because unscrupulous or uneducated pet owners release fish, plants, and other animals into the wild, and they become invasive. Maryland has a big problem with northern snakeheads (Channa argus). Florida has a big problem with pythons and boa constrictors. All throughout the southeast there is a problem with hydrilla choking out the waterways. All of these came from illegally released captives, and resulted in state laws being passed to ban these species. We need to rally the wet pet community to be proactive and emphasize the fact that nonnative fish/plants must never be released into a natural body of water. I know that no serious hobbyist would do this but they are only a small fraction of the hobby. MAKC needs to be part of the solution.

Joann May 2015


MAKC Executive Committee President Joann Mead

(845) 389-5712

jo_mead@earthlink.net

Vice-President Herb Ehrich

(845) 247-7105

koiking15@yahoo.com

Secretary Looking for a Volunteer Treasurer Anthony Vitale

(516) 420-0740

nyssba96@aol.com

Central Chapter Vice-President Bruce Damme (302) 598-8431 Drbdamme@windcrestanimal.com

Remember to Renew Your Membership

Long Island Chapter Vice-President Bruce Levine

(516) 735-2644

bruce@li-koi.com

Saugerties (NY) Chapter Vice-President Herb Ehrich Alan Mickelson

(845) 247-7105

koiking15@yahoo.com

South Chapter Vice-President (301) 332-7042 alanmickelson@msn.com

Standing Committees Richard Douglass

Membership (845) 723-4373

pvsherow@gmail.com

MAKC Sales Looking for a Volunteer MAKC Notice Group Manager Michael Snyder Sarah Johnson

(301) 762-2059 makc@imsnyder.com WebMaster (732) 567-6678 sarranna@yahoo.com

Executive Board Advisor y C ommittee Joe Zuritsky (215) 575-4001 Eric Wilson

jzuritsky@parkwaycorp.com

(443) 203-6486

wilseric@comcast.net

Don’t Wait – Do it Today. Renewal form you can print out is on page 48.

MAKC Home Page: http://www.makc.com

Production: Cindy Graham, NextUp Creations

Mid-Atlantic Koi is the magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. Material is selected for its interest to Koi keepers. MAKC accepts no responsibility for accuracy of content. Reproduction of uncopyrighted articles is permitted as long as this magazine is credited as the source. May 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Magazine Editor, Carolyn Weise

(239) 573-6650 x105

Advertising Editor, Joann Mead

(845) 389-5712

makcmag@makc.com jo_mead@earthlink.net

Meeting/Events Editor, Carolyn Weise (239) 573-6650 x105 makcmag@makc.com FAST Ads Editor, Carolyn Weise (239) 573-6650 x105 makcmag@makc.com

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 5


From the Editor’s Desk by Carolyn Weise makcmag@makc.com

n this issue, we have not one, not two, but three MAKC members contributing to this issue! I know you will enjoy the works of Barry Hixson, Herb Ehrich and Christine DeMarfio. We’ve not seen Barry’s pond for a while, but it is one of the nicest ponds I’ve ever seen. Have you considered using Aquatic Plants (in) Your Koi Pond? You will want to read this article by Koi-Care staff. We’ve all had experiences with Koi getting into plants and making a mess, but maybe there IS a way to make it work.

I

Hikari, one of our Corporate Sponsors, for providing us with another of the wonderful Japanese Koi Farmer introductions. If you love Koi, you have to appreciate their heritage in Japan. Yours in Koi! Carolyn

Thanks again to Ed Keene of the Delaware Aquarium Club for his contribution on Filtration and Lisa Burns, Backyard Getaway, for her introduction to Rainwater Harvesting. Some of you may be watering the garden with your pond water, which is a great way to do water changes, but if your pond is small, perhaps rainwater harvesting can supplement the water necessary for the garden plants. We don’t have to use our drinking water for this purpose. Oh, and especially take notice of Ben Helm’s article on Oxygen in ponds. If you keep fish, oxygen is the ultimate pond parameter that nobody seems to notice. It can mean the difference between life and death. Lastly, we love those Shubunkin! See the Goldfish Standards generously donated by Peter Ponzio, and a big thanks again to Page 6 Mid-Atlantic Koi

Rain barrel used at Ecological Labs Office in Florida May 2015


Beginner’s Corner Ask a question and we will get you an answer. Remember any questions you have are welcome, Just send them in to the editor.

District Chairman and “Don’t Ignore Ponds in Winter” by Jerold Kyle, KHA Director. !

Last summer we got our pond, so this is our first spring. Someone said that spring is hard on Koi. What should we do?

Note: This column offers suggestions only; the ultimate care of your pond and fish is up to you.

Q.

True, spring can be hard for Koi. This is because winter temperatures are stressful on Koi, and their surroundings can be full of Aeromonas bacteria. The 40-50 deg. temperature range is when bacteria start to multiply and the ciliated pathogens like Chilodinella, Costia, and Tricodina are multiplying fast. Along with this the fish have been in stressful conditions all winter. Their immune system is depressed; they could be in trouble.

A.

To combat these things be proactive. Change 10% of the water on warmer winter days about once a month. In spring (April) clean the bottom of all the leaves and other debris, then change 50% of the water (take from the bottom). Replace with declor; add 0.3% salt (3lb per. 100 gal.) use 99.5% pure salt, no additives. Salt is safe for fish and humans. Leave salt in for two weeks. Remove by water changes later. Salt helps the fish by lowering stress and raising their osmotic balance along with killing off most of the parasites. Add salt gradually. Example – 1000 gal. pond, needs 30 lbs. salt. Add 1/3 per day, dissolve before adding to pond. Use tub and recirculating pump to dissolve the salt. Read two articles in KOI USA for January/ February 2013 volume 37, issue 4. First, ”Aeromonas Alley” by James Reilly, ZNA NA May 2015

Wanted – Your Questions Please email your questions to makcmag@makc.com.

MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers Tom Burton

Middletown, NJ

732-671-7045

Jan & Bill Fogle Wayne, PA

610-687-3105

Terri Janas

Ashburn, VA

703-729-2988

Jeff Nicholson

Odenton, MD

301-912-1928

All members have microscopes and health books. In the event of a recorded message, please suggest a time when you're home to receive a return call or when you'd like to call back. Please remember that advice is given based on your input–the ultimate responsibility and treatment must remain with you.

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 7


MAKC

Corporate

Members

Quality Koi Company Nisei Koi Farm 856-299-7564 info@qualitykoi.com

www.qualitykoi.com

Interested in becoming a Corporate Member? Reasonable one time fee for the year – includes a Business Card size ad in all issues in this section and on the MAKC website.

www.mazuri.com Page 8 Mid-Atlantic Koi

Contact Joann Mead at 845-389-5712 or jo_mead@earthlink.net

May 2015


Introducing Minuma Koi Farm Courtesy of Hikari USA

e continue to visit top Koi breeders to introduce you to their unique focus. This time we interviewed Mr. Kenichi Wada of the Minuma Koi Farm, which is famous for their Goshiki breeding. The Goshiki variety has been gaining popularity, as has the Gosanke and Shiro Utsuri varieties, due to their distinct hi patterns.

W

I. About Minuma Koi Farm History Minuma Koi Farm breeds the Minuma Goshiki and is located in Saitama Prefecture, close to Japan's capital Tokyo. The farm has ponds in two separate prefectures, Niigata, which is the birthplace of Nishikigoi, and Saitama. More than 80% of their farm is devoted to Goshiki breeding. They normally have 6 to 7 Goshiki spawning, May 2015

three to four Ginrin Goshiki spawning and two Showa Sanshoku spawning annually. The farm's signature offspring, Minuma Goshiki, has been refined with many years of keen study and practice. The gorgeous hi markings of their fish look as if they are truly a work of art. Recently, they have been putting a great deal of Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 9


experience to diligent use. This was the first ideal Ginrin Goshiki the farm had ever bred. This winner had a stronger tint of red in the hi and is called “Minuma Ginrin Goshiki.� The birth of this Ginrin Goshiki was a very special event for the farm.

II. Production Style of Minuma Koi Farm The Asagi markings change from season to season Do any of you know that the sumi markings of Goshiki (Asagi markings) can change significantly as does the seasons? Like cherry blossoms, the Asagi markings become their most beautiful when the season turns from winter to spring. On the contrary, during the summer season the color could be faded and in some cases, their sumi markings could be fade so much that some people believe the fish are Kohaku. The photos on the next page show the Koi which won the 55 Bu Kokugyo Prize at the 42nd All Japan Koi Show (2011). The seasonal Asagi markings offer additional charm: in summer, making it look as if it were a Kohaku, and in the winter developing the beautiful Asagi markings, which match its name, Goshiki.

The 26th All Japan Young Koi Show (2008). Sakura Prize & The Best in Variety/ 63 Bu B-Ginrin

time and effort into the improvement of the Ginrin Goshiki variety.

Mr. Keinchi Wada's Unforgettable Goshiki The farm had been focused on improving the Ginrin Goshiki by putting their Goshiki breeding Page 10 Mid-Atlantic Koi

The Goshiki can become more and more beautiful when kept in hard water. For this reason the Goshiki variety is currently gaining popularity in some foreign countries. Q: Mr. Wada, what are you doing to reduce breeding issues? We are tackling a difficult problem now; how to grow Minuma Goshiki larger while retaining their beautiful markings. We thought using our Kohaku enlargement technique, after selecting the outstanding tosai Goshiki and while they were very young, coupled with raising only a May 2015


Summer - at the age of three

small number of them in the same pond would bring good results. However, this didn’t work on the Goshiki, because during the summer season, while they are very young, the selection process is very difficult because they look like a Kohaku. We have found we have to wait until the winter season when their Goshiki markings unveil themselves. We thought that crossing a Goshiki with a Kohaku would help us develop jumbo Koi. May 2015

From the field pond later in the year

February 2011 at the age of four when awarded the Kokugyo Prize

Unfortunately, this didn’t work either, because the Goshiki can only be bred effectively with one another. There is also one more problem. Unlike Kohaku, there are only a limited number of Goshiki Koi parents we can use for breeding. We also have to remember, breeding close blood relatives should be always avoided.

cm (30˝) long, win the Sakura Prize in the 42nd All Japan Koi Show, 2011. It will not be long before Goshiki over 80 cm (31˝) will be common and with breeding advances they will be able to maintain their beautiful and powerful markings as they grow.

As you can see, we have lots of problems to conquer. Even so, we’re very pleased we had a 5year-old Goshiki, which was 75

III. Daily Koi feeding and the finishing touch process Q: What do you require from the Koi food you use? Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 11


• It’s highly adaptable to a wide range of water temperatures • It provides the user with a large variety of choices for their unique demands • It guarantees predictable quality so each user can expect the same effect and result for their Koi We use the Saki-Hikari® Color Enhancing to enhance the Goshiki's excellent hi, adjusting the amount fed prior to entry into the Koi shows. Unlike other color enhancing feed on the market, the SakiHikari® series enables us to use it even in colder water Mr. Kenichi Wada conditions (below 13°C/55°F). We confidently recommend the Saki-Hikari® series to our customers regardless of their Koi keeping situation. The 42nd All Japan Koi Show (2011). Sakura Prize, 75 Bu Goshiki

Since we are farming Koi that will grow beautifully without any special skills from the Koi lover, we prefer a reliable food for our Koi. We chose Kyorin's Saki-Hikari® series, after considering the following benefits: • It has the taste Koi enjoys • It keeps the Koi in good shape

I think our production motto, “striving for improvements with our Koi's beautifully swimming figures in mind,” has helped to popularize the Minuma Goshiki around the world. !

Find club event information, pay dues, this magazine and more on our website -

www.makc.com Page 12 Mid-Atlantic Koi

May 2015


Koi Anatomy – Part 2 by Spike Cover , California

Eyes

Mouth Koi have a protrusive mouth that is ideally suited for bottom feeding. Koi are referred to as benthic feeders, since the position of the mouth on the underside of the head allows them to literally suck foods from the pond bottom. However, they are able to feed at any level, bottom, midwater and at the surface. Koi have no teeth in their jaws and this is consistent with how Koi in nature feed; i.e., suck everything up, taste it, and then decide if it is consumable or not. The Koi do however, have teeth like structures (pharyngeal teeth) on the pharyngeal bones located just behind the gill chambers. Food is ground by these teeth against a bony pad (carp stone) located on the top of the pharynx, itself.

May 2015

Koi eyes are similar in structure to our own. However, unlike ours, they have bilaterally placed eyes that are independently movable, which increases the range of area in their visual field. They have cones and rods, the structures of the eye that see color and black and white, respectively. They probably have good enough sight to see the shape of words on a printed page. Since Koi live in a water environment, they do not need protective eyelids. This, however, makes their eyes more vulnerable to abrasion or other mechanical trauma during netting and handling.

Sensory Organs Hearing Koi do not have external ears but hear by internal “ears” that are connected via a group of bones, known as the Weberian ossicles to the cranial swim bladder. It is believed that sound is amplified by the swim bladder. Koi, like other fish, are very sensitive to sound, and can be stressed to the point of becoming ill when exposed to loud noises on a constantly recurring basis. The diagram below is of sea trout head sensory Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 13


systems but it is believed to be representative of the principle and configuration of inner ears of Koi/carp. The portion of the diagram near the bottom (see bracket to left of diagram) shows the inner ears. !

(This material is reproduced from Aquariology, Master Volume by Gratzek with the kind permission of Tetra.) Page 14 Mid-Atlantic Koi

Look for Koi Anatomy Part 3 in the next issue. May 2015



Aquatic Plants for Your Koi Pond: Why They’re Important and How to Choose the Right Ones by KoiCare.com

dding plant life to a Koi pond helps improve pond life for Koi, as well as adding beauty to the pond itself.

A

Koi owners need to make sure they select the right aquatic plants that will harmoniously coexist with their Koi. They also need to ensure that their plant placement is done properly as well as not planting vegetation that will just be eaten by the Koi!

The Benefits of Including Aquatic Plants in a Koi Pond Aquatic plants are considered an excellent addition to any Koi pond. Aquatic plants, in fact, help increase oxygen production in the water, helping to keep the pond properly aerated for Koi. Their presence also helps keep the water cool by providing shade to the Koi. Additionally, around the spring breeding season submerged plants act as a critical surface onto which female Koi attach their fertilized eggs. The presence of plants also prevents the spread of algae from getting out of control. The shade plants provide reduces incoming light into the pond and therefore limits photosynthesis of algae. Their natural ‘filtration’ system prevents blanket weeds (string algae) from forming,

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mainly through absorbing harmful nitrates that lead to their formation in the first place.

Tips for Introducing Koi to Plant Life The best way to introduce plants into a Koi pond is building a plant shelf. This shelf can be built along the edge of the pond itself. It’s a container where water plants are suitable for planting. It’s a good idea to weigh down the plants with large rocks or stone to form a barrier between the base of the plants and Koi, preventing the risk of the Koi eating the plants. Pond owners should be aware that predators like raccoons may use the shelves as a tool for feeding on your Koi. For more on how to prevent pond predation see the article on our website. A vegetative filter may be an alternative to introducing aquatic plants to your pond. In this system the plants are grown in a separate containment area that connects to the main pond. The plants here can serve as a natural filtration system as water from the main pond travels in and out of the contained area. This gives you all the filtration benefits of having aquatic plants without the risk of your pond plants being eaten or dislodged. Of course, you can always place aquatic plants directly into the pond itself. There are several

May 2015


options to choose from when deciding on which aquatic plants to put in your pond. Pond plants can be divided into three main categories that are discussed below:

Water Lettuce

1. Floating plants 2. Shallow-water marsh plants 3. Submerged plants

1. Floating Plants This type of pond plant can be truly free floating with its main vegetation on the surface while the roots hang down, unattached or there are types where the roots are attached to the muddy bottom. The benefits are that they are easy to care for, they provide plenty of shade for Koi and they compete with algae for nutrients as well as blocking light that would have otherwise helped algae to grow, all of which greatly reduces algal growth. Additionally, they remove a lot of the existing nitrogen and phosphates in the water and thereby do a great job of filtering the water.

Another free floating plant is water lettuce. This is more of a tropics/warm climate plant and forms compact leaf clusters on the surface with a compact root mass forming beneath the plant. Water Lilies

Water Hyacinth

Some popular choices for floating plants are water hyacinth. This species is an annual in the colder regions of North America but a perennial in the warmer parts of the States. They bear purple or blue flowers and their roots form a compact “nest� beneath them. These plants do a great job of filtering the water of excess nutrients. May 2015

When it comes to floating plants with attached roots water lilies are definitely the most popular choice amongst Koi pond owners and may be the top choice of any of the aquatic plants. These plants will do well in just about any region of North America in any season and can be potted and placed at the bottom of the pond. On the surface, pond owners with water lilies will find a pleasant array of leafy covering and beautiful flowers that will nicely accent any pond. Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 17


Lotus

Water poppies produce small oval leaves and yellow flowers and are a great choice for Koi ponds. They grow fairly quickly in summer and add a nice touch of yellow to your pond while filtering the water.

2. Shallow Water Marsh Plants These type of aquatic plants are typically planted on the edge of your Koi pond in the shallows. They are usually very lush and do best in only several inches of water. Umbrella Plants

Looking similar to water lilies the lotus is one of the oldest cultivated aquatic plants and make a great addition to any Koi pond. Their leaves are typically very large, as much as 18 inches across which is great for providing shade to your Koi in the summer. Often confused with water lilies the lotus flower is very beautiful and also fragrant. A word of caution should be noted here as these plants have a substantial growth rate and are best planted in larger Koi ponds. Water Poppy

These tropical region aquatic plants do well in shallow water and for those living in colder climates they need to be brought in during winter. Umbrella plants, as the name suggests, have umbrella-shaped leaves at the end of long stalks. Water Iris A favorite amongst Koi pond owners the water iris comes in several different species. They have long, sharp leaves and depending on the species may produce flowers in colors ranging from blue, white or yellow. These plants are typically planted in pots that are then submerged. Most iris will do great both in full sun or partial shade which is nice for those with a lot of tree cover nearby.

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May 2015


Water Iris

Horsetail

the water such as nitrites as well as CO2 and add oxygen to the water. One word of caution though, these plants are often uprooted and eaten by grazing Koi so care must be taken to protect them. Fanwort

This plant produces a slender green stem and is fast growing. It is best placed on the peripheral parts of your pond and will do great in partial shade.

3. Submerged Plants Suberged plants are usually grown in pots then placed at the bottom of a Koi pond. Referred to as oxygenating plants this class of aquatic plants do a great job of removing excess nutrients from May 2015

This submerged plant is a fast growing oxygenator and requires a good deal of light. These plants can grow up to an inch per day and can be propagated using cuttings. Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 19


Water Purslane (Ludwigia)

These plants do well with pond substrates that are silty. They are completely submerged with the exception of small white flowers that bloom at the surface. It is great at utilizing the dissolved CO2 in the water and providing cover for fish, especially small Koi. Sometimes the leafy stalks will break off and float away to take root in another part of the pond. They do very well in milder climates. ! We would like to thank the staff at Koi Care. You can find this article on their website at http://koi-care.com/importance-aquatic-plantskoi-pond-choose

There are many species in the Ludwigia family but Red Ludwigia is a good choice for your pond as this plant grows fast and is a great oxygenator. It can be planted as a submerged addition to your pond or you can let it float. They produce small flowers and their leaves are a reddish or purple color. They typically do well in a lot of direct light. American Waterweed (Elodea)

Reading this on issuu.com Please help support the magazine by joining MAKC today. The MAKC Membership Form can be found on page 48. Do it today, it only takes a couple of minutes.

Page 20 Mid-Atlantic Koi

May 2015


Filtration by Ed Keene, DCAS, edited for Koi ponds by Carolyn Weise

elax, sit back, kick your shoes off, put your feet up, and enjoy that little spectacular water world you have created for your fish and your viewing pleasure. Isn't it beautiful and peaceful? You have created such a nice natural environment in your pond. The fish just gliding along, in and out of the various pieces of driftwood, around the rocks, through the floating plants, and all in crystal clear sparkling water. What a perfectly wonderful, self contained, little interactive world I built for them. Wow!!! I have created a miniature Shangri-La for my little fish friends.

R

that reminds me of a pink bunny I see from time to time running across my television screen - it just keeps going and going and going and . . I'm talking about your filtration system in general and your filter(s) in particular. Do you think I'm just pulling the wool over your eyes? Well, forget about performing your maintenance tasks. Unplug your filtration system. Close the door behind you and go away for two weeks. I dare you to even attempt to try and tell me how wonderful it was when you got home! By the way, was anything still alive?

Filtration Systems in General Why do I Want a Filtration System? Did I just say, "What a perfectly wonderful, self contained, little interactive world I built for them??" Well, I lied!! Well, not really, but my pleasant thoughts definitely got carried away with themselves. In reality, I have created a make believe world, a synthetic environment, and one that is extremely delicate to say the least. Sometimes we forget that fish kept in a pond are confined to a very small quantity of water as compared to their natural habitat. In the wild, fish wastes are instantly diluted. But in a pond waste products can quickly build up to toxic levels. Without the valuable help, aid, and assistance of two major outside factors, the aforementioned perfectly wonderful, self contained, little interactive world would be sheer disaster in a matter of days, if not hours. One factor is the routine maintenance tasks you perform to help keep the pond environment nice and clean and healthy. The other, even more important factor, is the one May 2015

Any pond store will be able to offer you a wide variety of filter types and styles. And in many cases they can be jointly used. In fact, many of the more knowledgeable hobbyists combine multiple types of filtration. Why do they combine filtration types? Well, one major reason is that there is no single, optimum filtration system available in today's world!!! Therefore, it is of the utmost importance that you understand why a complete filtration system is highly recommended, and more especially, the principles behind how they work. It is my humble opinion, and I'd have to say I would be siding with the major portion of hobbyists, that a good filtration system is THE most important piece of equipment you must own in order to maintain top water quality conditions in your pond. It is a well know fact among the more experienced hobbyists that the major portion of all health problems contracted by your fish stem from unsuitable water quality. The primary reason for unsuitable water quality Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 21


is the lack of a filtration system in general and/or the lack of a top quality performance filtration system in particular. Without a filtration system to remove the seemingly innocent substances from the water (fish poop, ammonia, excess food, etc.), they continue to build up and turn into catastrophic pollutants and toxins. In a very short time period, this buildup will take the life of all fish in your pond. In this case, the fish are actually poisoning themselves. Generally, the result of the aforementioned poor water quality is an extremely high level of ammonia, which is very toxic to fish. Even if your pond water never reaches this catastrophic state, unsuitable water quality conditions lead to several other problems with your fish. Poor water quality can lead to stress in the fish which may or may not lead to any immediate problems. However, stress over an extended period of time will cause a decline in the health of the fish, their activity and coloration. Their reproductive systems may cease to work properly, if at all. They will not grow as large as they normally should, if they even continue to grow. They become more susceptible to bacterial and parasitic diseases, as their natural antibodies can no longer fight them off. I could give many more examples but I think you have the idea by now. At any rate, this is where a good filtration system comes into play. A good filtration system, when properly maintained and in conjunction with proper water changes, will greatly reduce, if not totally eliminate, all of the previously mentioned conditions. Although you will never hear them tell you, your fish will love you for it. Before we dive into this topic, there is one commonality they all have, and it is extremely important. Filters are not maintenance free. If debris of any type is allowed to accumulate, it will decompose into ammonia, defeating its primary purpose in addition to clogging the filter. A clogged filter is an ineffective one. Regular maintenance is required to keep them clean flowing. One additional item to keep in Page 22 Mid-Atlantic Koi

mind, you can never have too much filtration. However, all filtration will create water movement of some type and ‘too much’ water movement could also prove stressful for your fish, so govern your filtration accordingly!!

Types of Filtration Systems Available Every day, we learn more and more about the fish world. As our knowledge increases and our modern day technology increases, I'm sure bigger, better, faster, more powerful, etc., filters are right around the corner. But as of today, the three types of filtration systems available are chemical, mechanical and biological. And as fate would have it, guess what? There just happens to be three types of pollutants and waste that we need to remove from our ponds. They are organic, particulate, and nitrogenous. Many of the filter systems available today will perform one type of filtration, or if desired, a combination of the three. So with all of this in mind, and with so many types and styles of filters available, you ask yourself "what should I buy"? Well, let's discuss some of the filter options. Additionally, I'll tie the filters into the basic three types of water pollutants we find in our ponds and which of the pollutants are best removed by each filter. At a high level, chemical filtration removes such things as ammonia, heavy metals, dissolved organics, etc., to a certain degree, through the chemical process of adsorption. In other words, chemical filtration uses chemicals such as carbon to adsorb and remove toxins within the pond or filter in a manner that will not be harmful to your fish. By the way, in case you thought it was a typographical error and I really meant absorption, adsorption is the correct terminology here. Carbon absorbed nothing - it adsorbed it. I will write more on adsorption, when I talk about chemical filtration. Mechanical filtration, also known as particulate filtration, traps such particles as plant leaves, uneaten food, etc., allowing May 2015


them to be removed from the pond before they decompose into ammonia. In other words, mechanical filtration works by taking the stuff that is floating in the water out when the water passes through a screen of some sort that the particles cannot pass through. Biological filtration decomposes the toxic ammonia that fish produce as waste products. Biological filtration works by growing a culture of helpful bacteria that digest the fish waste products as the water is pulled over them. Biological filtration is thought by many, including myself, to be the most efficient and most balanced way to breakdown toxic ammonia. Now for a closer look at all three. Chemical Filtration Chemical filtration is the filtration of dissolved wastes, also called organic pollutants, from the pond water through some type of adsorbent material. Generally, the adsorbent material used

May 2015

is carbon. Organic pollutants exist in one of two states, polar or non-polar. Carbon will attract both types of pollutants; however, it attracts the non-polar better. Of the three types of filtration, chemical filtration is the lesser of importance and should not be relied on too heavily, more especially, if this is the only type of filtration being used. If daily water changes are being made, ponds can run very effectively without carbon. When used in your filtration system, carbon is a very effective adsorbent of smells, water discoloration, and other types of metabolic byproducts which are constantly being discarded into the pond water by the fish. The metabolic byproducts which fish produce include such things as amino acids, hormones (which will affect the behavior and growth rate of other fish), and proteins. Carbon will assist in adsorbing ammonia, although it would be better to purchase prepackaged carbon with ammonia

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removing material already mixed in with it. In addition to adsorbing ammonia, the ammonia removing material will slightly alter your water chemistry because it will also adsorb calcium and magnesium. Calcium and magnesium are water hardeners by nature, so with them removed, your water will be softened. All of the above substances are known as organic pollutants. It is a proven fact that as the organic pollutant levels increase, the health of the fish will decrease. Their immune systems are lowered, making them more susceptible to disease. Additionally, they will not eat as well, their growth rate is reduced, and they may not want to be bothered with reproduction any more. Carbon is the way to go, unless you have the time to do a 40% to 50% water change every day, and are willing to do that every day without fail. It is important to note that carbon is not selective in the chemicals it adsorbs. In addition to adsorbing chemicals which you want it to, it will also remove the ones which you do not want it to. If for example, you had a diseased fish and wanted to treat the pond to get rid of the disease, what would you do? You treat the pond with medication - right? After treating the pond for a week, the fish is still diseased. Why?? Well, think about this for a minute. Medications are chemicals and beneficial ones at that. You run out to the pond store, buy some medications, rush home and put the medication into your pond. The medication gets pulled into your filtration system, the carbon adsorbs it, and your fish never get the benefit of its healing power. It is therefore earnestly recommended that prior to adding medications to your pond, you remove the carbon. Once the medications have performed their duty, remove them from the pond by adding the charcoal back into the filtration system. Suppose you were pouring daily vitamins into your pond. Well, unfortunately, if you have carbon in your filter, the same thing as in the above example applies. There is a way to get the vitamins into the fish, however, and still keep the carbon in your filter. You can ensure the fish are Page 24 Mid-Atlantic Koi

getting their vitamins by pre-soaking their food in it. When the food is saturated, put it in the pond, and fish will gobble it right up. Let me take this opportunity to describe adsorption. Adsorption is the adhesion of organic substances and particles to the surface of a solid body in a very, very thin layer. A common misunderstanding is that the carbon sucks in these particles, or absorbs them like a sponge. Carbon is very hard and non-porous, so it cannot suck in anything. The carbon you purchase at the pond or aquarium store undergoes an activation process whereby it is heated to approximately 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. This process greatly enhances its adsorption capabilities. On the store shelves, you will see the carbon sold as activated carbon or activated charcoal. Now to tie this chemical filtration process of adsorption together-- Actually, it is quite simple. When the water flows from your pond into the filter, it passes in, around, and over the carbon. The organic particles adhere to and become permanently attached to the surfaces of the carbon. The water continues to flow back into your pond leaving the organics behind. That is basically all there is to it!! It is important to note, however, that after a period of time, the surfaces of the carbon get full and can no longer adsorb anything else. Therefore, you must remember to completely change the carbon every month. An attempt to clean the carbon for reuse will be to no avail, unless you can turn your oven up to 2000 degrees to re-activate it. When putting carbon into your filter, be generous. If you are using pre-packaged filter cartridges of some type, I'd suggest you add more carbon to them. Personally, I do not use cartridges. I have yet to see one on the store shelves which contained enough carbon. My suggestion is to increase the original carbon contents by 4 or 5 fold. May 2015


Let me give you a couple of carbon tips. First, before using any carbon in your filter, rinse it off very well. This will get rid of a lot of black, gritty dust that is created and builds up during packaging and shipping from the manufacturer. Once it is fairly clean, you can use it immediately, or you may want to travel the route of my second tip, which is as follows. Carbon will leach phosphates into the pond water. This is a fact! To some people, (more especially those with salt water aquariums), this is a major concern. To others it does not matter. How about you?? Well, let me give you some background. Carbon is made from coal, and coal at one point in time, was some type of living plant matter. All living matter is high in phosphates. Most of the better manufacturing companies producing carbon have pre-rinsed it in an acid bath. This process reduces something so that something else gets reduced, which in turn reduced this other thing, to reduce...a chemist I

May 2015

am not!!! The bottom line is that the acid bath will minimize the phosphate leach. The leaching is high initially and will decrease over time. So, to ensure the minimal leach possible, most of the people who have a concern with leaching will wash their carbon very well and then let it soak in a bucket for several weeks before they use it in their filter. Are you wondering what my preference is? Let's just say that I'm a wash it and use it type of guy!! Mechanical Filtration Simply stated, mechanical filtration is the process of continuously circulating pond water through some type of filter media which strains and removes solid particulate matter (particles of dirt and other organic compounds) from the water. This is the best way to deal with suspended material in the water. Common mechanical filter media does not remove microscopic bacteria and

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algae from the water, nor will it remove any solid particles trapped by gravel, plants, or decorations. Mechanical filtration is not needed to keep your fish healthy but, it is needed to help, aid, and assist in keeping your pond water looking sparkling clear. This type of filtration is probably the easiest of the three to understand because you can actually see it occurring and being collected. It will appear as a slimy dark mass on the filtration media. This slime is the organic matter that was produced by the fish waste and leftover fish food. There are a number of sources for the particulate matter that accumulates in ponds. They include, but certainly are not limited to, uneaten fish food, fish poop, and cell material from fish and plants. Some of this material remains in suspension rather than sinking to the bottom, making the water foul and murky, not to mention cloudy. Larger particles sink to the bottom, only to rise again and cloud the water when stirred up by a fish swimming past it or other types of activities occurring in the pond. Besides being very unpleasant to look at, the fish are adversely affected by foul and murky water. Very filthy water causes stress which weakens the ability of fish to resist the disease organisms. Keep in mind, that filthy water creates an excellent environment for the bad types of bacteria to thrive in. Gill membranes may become irritated, which in addition to causing stress, will lead to respiratory problems. This combination will cause the fish to become highly susceptible to bacterial and parasitic attacks. Although daily water changes would reduce particulate pollution, few hobbyists are willing to maintain this practice for long. Although it helps a little bit, mechanical filtration does not remove ammonia. Remember that ammonia not only comes directly from the gills of your fish, but also from decaying fish poop and food scraps. These wastes are an eyesore and will certainly detract from the beauty and enjoyPage 26 Mid-Atlantic Koi

ment of the perfectly wonderful, self contained, little interactive world your pond contains. The more poop and waste particles you can mechanically filter out before it gets a chance to decay, the better! You will need to perform another task to remove the solid wastes trapped by gravel, plants, or decorations from the nooks and crannies of your pond if you do not have a bottom drain. One of the easiest processes is to vacuum the gravel during your regular water changes. There are numerous products available which accomplish this task very well. Good water movement and circulation will keep the solid wastes moving about the pond longer, thereby giving the mechanical filter that much more of an opportunity to remove it from the water. Mechanical filter media include Matala matting, paper cartridges, loose and bonded floss media, foam sponges, fiber pads, and diatomaceous earth. These media types differ primarily in terms of the size particles they can effectively capture. Based upon the previous statement, you will see a wide range of prices. Some filter mediums can be reused over and over until they wear out, while others can only be used one time. Floss is the cheapest. However, it has a tendency to trap only the largest particles and cannot be reused. On the other hand, diatomaceous earth is probably the most expensive and requires a good bit of maintenance. However, it will trap extremely fine particles. The selection of a mechanical filtration system and the filtration medium used is your personal choice but there are a few items to take into consideration. The ability of mechanical filtering media to trap solid particulate matter is determined by the shape and size of the openings in the media being used. A filter medium with small openings catches finer particles, but clogs faster and requires frequent replacement. As the filter media becomes clogged, the water flow will be restricted to the point where the pond water will May 2015


actually become filthier!!! Generally, the better method is to use filter medium that traps larger particles, such as fiber pads. Over time, the accumulation of larger particles fills in the spaces, and smaller particles are then also trapped. Keep in mind however, that no matter what type of filter medium you use, when the water flow of the filter is significantly reduced, the filter medium must be cleaned and/or replaced. In my opinion, I believe that the reusable types of filtration medium improve with age and use. I say this because when you clean or rinse it out, you never get rid of all of the trapped particulates. This makes the reused medium more effective in trapping both the smaller as well as the larger particles. Regardless of the filter medium you decide upon, there are two important things to consider when purchasing the mechanical filter. They are surface area and flow rate. The larger the surface area through which the water flows, the greater the

May 2015

particulate trapping rate will be. Additionally, it will take longer for the filter medium to become clogged, thereby, reducing the amount of maintenance required. A surface area of 18 inches by 16 inches provides a larger trapping area than does a 10 inch by 8 inch area. The flow rate should be at least 3 or 4 times that of the pond size. In other words, if you have a 3000 gallon pond, the flow rate should not be any less than 9000 gallons per hour. !

Do you have a picture to share? Please send them to the Editor, Carolyn Weise. makcmag@makc.com

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Rainwater Harvesting by Lisa Burns, Backyard Getaway

http://atlanticwatergardens.com/prod_rainharvesting.cfm

ainwater harvesting is the collecting and storing of rainwater for reuse before it reaches the aquifer. The simplest way to collect water is to channel the rain off your roof into gutters and down pipes that pour into a rain barrel. Normally, this type of storage system is above ground and is gravity fed with a spigot at the bottom of the barrel to connect a water hose. Collected water has many uses from watering your garden and topping off your pond to washing your car or supplying drinking water for your livestock. What if you have a large garden

R

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you wish to irrigate using harvested rainwater? You may want something larger than one or two rain barrels. Why not create a storage system that would also add beauty to your yard. The concept is the same; you collect rain from the gutter downspout just as you would for your rain barrel. Water is then routed into an underground cistern you created by using liner, pump vault and eco-blox. Now for the best part, a layer of permeable pavers or a pond-free water feature covers your underground cistern, creating a usable space in your yard. Using 45mil EPDM May 2015


liner as your base allows you to make your cistern as large as you need. Eco-blox are important components in your cistern. They are to help hold as much water as possible in your cistern while making it strong enough to hold the pavers or rock for the water feature. A submersed pump draws the water from the cistern to your garden when needed. There are a couple of things to consider when creating a cistern. If you wish to use your stored water to top off your fish pond or supply drinking water for livestock, you will want the water to be clean. After a dry spell, the first water from your roof will contain pollutants that must flush to waste. You can also add a filter to your downspout to help remove these pollutants. Mosquitoes may be another concern. Add Biological mosquito control product to keep mosquitoes from breeding. Rain harvesting is just one example of how you can conserve water and give back to the environment while making your private space a bit more enjoyable. ! Lisa Burns of Backyard Getaway our website is backyardgetaway.net.

Kids Building Solar Powered Pond

Dear Ms. Weise, I would love to keep you updated on our progress. We are currently digging out the pond area. With 8 year olds doing the digging, it will take a while. Thompson Landscaping, in Fontana, has been most helpful with technical advice. We have great parent support for installation of the pump and solar panels. Thanks for the support. Regards, Susan Barkdoll ! This project is made possible by a grant that Ms. Barkdoll received.

MAKC’s website has been updated. Have you taken a look yet?

www.makc.com May 2015

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Member Pond Profile – Barry Hixson by Barry Hixson, Pennsylvania

have had ponds for almost 35 years and have done many different structures to cover the pond during the winter. I read articles, visited other members’ ponds and heard the successes and failures of this hobby of raising Koi. Quite a journey.

I

It seems best to keep the pond running during the winter but a backup system is needed in case of a power failure. I cover the Koi pond which measures 24´ x 14´ at the widest part. The upper pond measuring 13´ x 13´ which has no fish and Page 30 Mid-Atlantic Koi

only lilies is shut down. No filtration. The waterfall basin, which houses canna and iris is shut down. The lower pond has two 4˝ bottom drains and skimmer are operating which go to the vortex, the sequence pump to the Aquadyne 4.4 and then diverted to the basement where I have a 95,000 btu’s heat exchanger operating off the domestic hot water boiler. The structure is built with 2˝ x 3˝ lumber, has a slanted roof and the rafters are every 20˝. I use to cover with heavy duty netting and then a solar May 2015


until it reaches 45°F. The Koi go almost 3 ½ months without eating. Mid March, I salt the pond to 0.3 % and introduce small amounts of an all season Koi food. UV lights are installed but I don’t run the upper pond and waterfall until mid May as the cost to heat the full 6300 gallons system and with the uncovered upper pond above 63°F is too expensive. The lower pond is 5,000 gallons, which is heated.

cover topped with 6 mil plastic. Now I only cover with the plastic, which comes on a 20´ x 100´ roll. I can use the same plastic for two years then discard. The perimeter is secured with pond rock. The front is easily lifted for viewing the fish and yes letting friends still hand feed water melon to the Koi at Thanksgiving. I keep the water temperature up above 55°F. In December I start lowering the water temp two degrees a day May 2015

The pond now has 24 Koi with a few over 26˝ and the oldest one is K-Kid at age 26. Yes, they all have names. Hopefully, I don’t encounter any problems as I go through the stressful Spring season. Do frequent water changes, keep the buffering capacity up, don’t over stock and monitor water quality weekly until you are sure everything is okay. If you see abnormal behavior reach out to a fellow club member or consider consulting a Koi vet who can definitely identity the problem. Good luck and enjoy the hobby. ! Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 31


Oxygen in Ponds by Ben Helm

issolved Oxygen Concentration (DOC) is the term given to describe the amount of oxygen that is dissolved in pond water. It is measured in terms of how much oxygen (by weight – mg) is dissolved in every litre of water. There are many factors that will affect DOC in a Koi pond, some of which we can control, others we cannot, but can respond in a number of ways to guard against problems.

D

Of course, dissolved oxygen is important to all life in a Koi pond, not simply the fish, and they all have a demand on the finite supply of oxygen dissolved in the pond water. The number of oxygen consumers in a pond will determine whether the dissolved oxygen concentrations in Page 32 Mid-Atlantic Koi

the pond are likely to be a problem or not, with a larger density putting a greater strain on the resource.

Oxygen Consumers in a Koi Pond 1) Koi. In relation to the activities of bacteria and other microscopic pond organisms, the oxygen demand by Koi is not the greatest (but this will vary with stocking density). Compared to many other fish species, Koi are relatively tolerant of low dissolved oxygen concentrations (which is understandable, being a fish from slower moving warm waters). The range of DOC in a pond will run from a minimum (0mg/l) to a maximum (about 15mg/l), where even the supply of additional aeration would not change the DOC. A trout requires a high DOC of about May 2015


12mg/l while the more tolerant Koi can only require a much lower 6 mg per litre. Even so, below this, for short periods of time they can gasp at the surface to gain their required oxygen. Koi are equipped with gills, which have a very fine and delicate structure. Gills are used to absorb the oxygen that passes through them with some oxygen being dissolved in the water. They are very efficient at removing oxygen, absorbing 80% of the oxygen that speeds by their gills in the water (compare that to about 20% efficiency of our lungs). Furthermore, Koi are able to pack the oxygen from 100 ml of water into 4 ml of blood. Quite a feat of bioengineering! 2) Bacteria/Fungi The majority of bacteria in a pond are aerobic (requiring oxygen) mostly found in abundance in the filter. The activity (and oxygen demand) of a bacterial population will vary, depending on the water temperature and the amount of food that is present for them to break down in the water. The bacteria involved in breaking down ammonia into nitrites and then nitrates require oxygen. The greater the supply of ammonia and therefore nitrites, the greater the bacterial activity and oxygen demand. A further group of bacteria, known as heterotrophic bacteria, feed on organic matter, (both soluble and solid), that is present in the pond. As solids gather in a settlement chamber or excess food is allowed to float uneaten, the oxygen demand of these heterotrophic bacteria will rise as they gorge themselves on a banquet of food and fish waste. 3) Invertebrates.The more mature a filter becomes, the greater the diversity of the invertebrate life that will colonize. A range of hungry critters from the virtually microscopic to the easily visible will all demand oxygen as they break down organic matter. Again, the more food there is to break down, the greater the demand on the pond’s oxygen reserves. May 2015

4) Plants.Plants, both microscopic algae and larger plants, are oxygen consumers, day and night. Plants, like fish and all the other pond life, respire 24 hours a day, using up oxygen. Fortunately, the plants, during the day, also add oxygen to the pond’s oxygen budget in excess of what they require in the day.

Oxygen Budget However, as most Koi ponds are sparsely planted, particularly with oxygenating plants, then there is likely to be little oxygen added courtesy of the plant life. Furthermore, as fish stocking and feeding rates are in excess of what Mother Nature would decree, there is likely to be insufficient oxygen entering the pond passively by diffusion from the atmosphere. This can soon lead to an oxygen debt, where the demand and consumption of oxygen is in excess of the rate at which it is being added.

Factors that can cause the DOC to drop: Biological Factors The demands on the oxygen dissolved in the pond can be extreme. If feeding rates are high and fish are at their most active, then Koi will be consuming oxygen at a high rate, as will the populations of bacteria and invertebrates breaking down the ammonia and undigested organic matter excreted by Koi. Plants in the daytime are natural oxygen producers, exceeding their own oxygen demand. At night, however, they still use oxygen but are no longer producers. This can lead to DOC dropping at night, especially if your pond is suffering from an algal problem. If algaecides are used, which can cause algae to die off this can also present a problem as it attracts considerable bacterial activity all of which consume DO. Climatic Factors Temperature has a twofold effect on DOC. Firstly, as temperature increases the ability of water to hold dissolved oxygen decreases. Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 33


Compounding this phenomenon is the effect that temperature has on the metabolism and oxygen demands of all aquatic life in a pond. As water temperatures increase, Koi will consume more food, excrete more ammonia, which attracts more bacterial action in the filter. So just when a pond can ill afford too many demands on its oxygen, the oxygen requirements within a pond, including Koi, reach their highest levels of the year. It is essential to step in and add more oxygen. Chemical Factors Pond treatments, both directly and indirectly, will cause oxygen to become limited in a pond. Any solute (dissolved substance added to a pond) will limit a pond’s ability to hold as much oxygen as was possible prior to the addition of a solute. So when adding any treatments, additional aeration is always recommended. Indirectly, many treatments can lead to an increase in organic matter that will be broken down. For example, algicides may lead to dead algae settling out in the filter, or other treatments can kill off bacteria, or lead to an increase in mucus production. All of these will eventually be broken down by oxygen-hungry bacteria.

Affects of Low DOC on Fish Low DOC has very obvious affects on Koi. If there is insufficient oxygen dissolved in the pond water, Koi will respond in the short term, by becoming lethargic, swimming slower than normal, and perhaps hanging towards the surface. If the condition persists or even deteriorates, Koi will gather at water inlets or below a waterfall and even start gasping air from the surface. By this stage they will already have become stressed, making them very susceptible to disease. Whenever I have taken a mucus scrape from a gasping fish, I have found an abnormally high density of protozoan parasites, busy capitalizing from the Koi’s momentary lapse of defense. Page 34 Mid-Atlantic Koi

A low DOC is also likely to affect Koi health indirectly, by adversely affecting the biological filter. The functioning of bacteria that are responsible for the breakdown of toxic waste is directly proportional to the dissolved oxygen concentration. Low DOC will lead to poor filter performance and a peak in ammonia/nitrite may well lag behind such an incident.

Detecting and Measuring More Precisely A DOC deficit is only likely to occur at warmer temperatures, and a change in Koi behavior will be the first sign of a problem. A more precise method of quantifying the problem (or the margin of safety on a hot day) is with a digital DO meter. In an instant, it will show the DOC and more advanced units will indicate the degree of saturation by simultaneously measuring the water temperature. Even more advanced is a permanent DO monitoring system which will sound an alarm should DOC levels drop dangerously low. Such units are common place in intensive aquaculture and can also be used to detect either a pump or air pump failure due to the associated drop in DO.

Immediate Action An acute low DO problem can occur through equipment failure, through unforeseen circumstances, or overlooking the likely effects of a pond treatment. In either case, once low DOC is detected, remedial action should be swift. 1) Agitate the water’s surface short-term by pouring buckets of pond water back into the pond. This can alleviate a short-term problem while you think of a more permanent solution. 2) Spray a hose into and across the pond, simulating rain. This will cause DOC to rise as an emergency measure, and the cooler tapwater will allow pond water to hold more oxygen.

May 2015


Prevention Preventing a low DOC is far better than responding to a problem, and there are many aeration strategies that will solve the problem: 1) Air Pump and Diffuser. Air is the most effective when it is pumped to the bottom of a pond or filter chamber and dispersed into as fine bubbles as possible. The deeper a pond is, the greater the head of pressure an air pump has to displace before managing to deliver air to a diffuser. Hi-blow pumps are the Koi keeper’s standard, delivering good volumes of air under pressures capable of reaching depths of 8´. Recognizing that both fish and filters are oxygen consumers, aeration should be added to both the pond and biofilter chamber. Avoid aerating settlement chambers as the mixing action created by the airstones will interfere with the settlement action. The golf ball type of air diffuser is very easy to install and cost effective. Smaller bubbles can be achieved using different diffusers, such as leaky pipe, micro-bubblers and air domes, the latter converting a bottom drain into a diffuser where the airline can be trailed, out of sight, up the water pipe and into the filter. 2) Injection. Venturis inject air into a stream of water as it returns under pressure from the pump. This is useful at creating a mixing effect in the surface layers of the pond water, but not regarded as effective as an air pump and diffuser system. 3) Waterfalls. These mix air and water as it cascades down the waterfall and enters the surface. In similar fashion to the venturi, a waterfall’s beneficial effects are limited to the upper layers of pond water.

Dos and Don’ts to Avoid a Low DOC Do: 1) Try to aerate a pond as a matter of course, endeavoring to aerate down to the pond bottom. 2) Add additional aeration to the biofilter chambers, it will enhance bacterial colonization. 3) Clean out settlement chambers regularly. Even when organic matter is removed from the pond, it still attracts oxygen demanding bacteria in the filter. 4) Add additional aeration during any pond treatment or medication. Don’t: 1) Assume that if your fish have survived the hot day without additional aeration, they will survive the night. Night time is when DOC can really begin to drop, so continue to aerate. 2) Continue to aerate below 12°C (~54°F). Allow fish to settle in warmer deeper water. Aerating will simply mix up all layers of the water, losing the benefit of having such a deep pond. 3) Over stock. This will lead to a doubling of demand on oxygen from the Koi and the bacteria breaking down their waste. !

Raffle August 16th Reef Radiance has generously donated a Seneye Pond Monitor and Web Server with WIFI Module to the Club and we are going to raffle the whole system, a $429.00 value! The raffle tickets are $10.00 each and the drawing will be held on Sunday, August 16, 2015 at the Saugerties Chapter meeting. http://reefradiance.com/seneye.html

May 2015

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Christine DeMarfio Part 2 nuggled up in my house on this cold March morning I'm watching delicate snowflakes fall gracefully from the sky. Yes, that's right, another snow storm in New York, the perfect morning to reminisce of the warm summer day when I started painting the series of Koi.

S

As I mentioned in the first article I am an advertising artist by trade so when contemplating on how to create these pieces, I decided to compose a very graphic pond scene. I had the background already completed with deep dark hues of blue, green, bronze and even black. Now I wanted to illustrate bright colorful Koi because the contrast will really help them "pop" off the canvas. Painting only the fish in the darkness of the water sets a very striking scene. Without any other detail you can imagine these Koi can be in anyone's pond. I started the Koi drawings with a feeling of movement, it's as if they're swimming off the canvas. I wanted the observer to notice how playfullooking the Koi are. My intention is to help you take notice of the way they swim so quickly and closely like children playing a game of follow-the-leader. These two paintings are the very first of the Koi series I started. ! Page 36 Mid-Atlantic Koi

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Single Tail Fish Shubunkin Goldfish

• The Shubunkin is similar to the common goldfish and comet, and is classified as a single-tail fish, having a dorsal fin. The fish possess a “torpedo” shaped body, and can grow to become from twelve to twenty inches in length. • The primary difference between the common goldfish, comet, and the Shubunkin is primarily the coloring. The Shubunkin goldfish is a calico fish, and can be nacreous or matte, meaning that the fish can have scattered scales (nacreous) or matte (having the appearance of no scales).

the caudal or tail fin, which actually comes in three distinct types. The short tail, often seen on “common” goldfish is called the London tail. The elongated tail typically seen on “comet” goldfish, which is known as the Japanese tail form. The final tail type is known as the “Bristol” which is a very beautiful, spread tail found only in the Shubunkin. In recent years, the tail of the Bristol Shubunkin has been improved so that it is carried almost perpendicular to the body, close to a 180 degree spread between the outermost caudal rays. A combination of this spread and ray branching creates a tail similar to the letter “B.”

• An interesting attribute of the Shubunkin is May 2015

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London Shubunkin – (London Tail Type)

• Judging for these fish is similar to that of the common goldfish, but with added emphasis placed on coloration (since these are calico fish), and the tail fin. • All other characteristics being equal, the ranking for finnage in these fish will be as follows: o Bristol tail type o Japanese tail type o London tail type

Japanese Shubunkin – (Japanese Tail Type)

Page 38 Mid-Atlantic Koi

• Since coloration is so important to this fish, it is important that three primary colors are shown on the fish. The first of these colors is black, which should appear on the body, as well as in streaks which appear on the fins. The second primary color that must appear on the fish is red. The red should be as deep as possible, with an intense vermillion color being preferred. The third primary color that must appear on the fish is blue, which should be as intense as possible. Shubunkins often have the most intense blue coloring of any goldfish, and the color is often so deep that it appears purple. May 2015


Bristol Shubunkin – (Bristol Tail Type)

• Other colors are permissible on the fish, as long as these three primary colors are included. Other colors seen on Shubunkins include: pink, yellow, white, and orange. An exception to this rule occurs in the case of the “Midnight Blue” Shubunkin, which

May 2015

is a black, blue and white fish. The color red is not present in the “Midnight Blue” Shubunkin. Recently, Bristol Tail-like fish have been produced in single colors, including: blue, brown, chocolate and purple. These are not considered “true” Bristol Shubunkins and should be benched in the “Other” or “Miscellaneous” categories in goldfish shows.

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 39


Midnight Blue – a color variation of a Japanese Tail – photo courtesy of Vicki Knill

London Shubunkin – photo courtesy of David Lains

Description

Points

Body Style

20

Coloration

20

Deportment and Condition

20

Finnage

20

Special Characteristics – Finnage and coloration (aditional points)

20

American Goldfish Association 2014 Goldfish Standards Variety Name: Shubunkin Dorsal Fin: Y/N, Y Tail Type: Bristol Tall; Japanese Tall; London Tall; in order of preference Special Characteristic: Tall, Coloration

Total

100

! Page 40 Mid-Atlantic Koi

May 2015


My Journey to Nishikigoi by Herb Ehrich, Vice-President MAKC and Saugerties Chapter video by Peter Chan. Once I tried the method I was able to move the stones in the same way as described by Peter. Another video I regard highly is called, Bonsai Techniques by John Naka.

s far back as I can remember, I have been interested in the Japanese culture and traditions. I admire the way everything in the Japanese culture has a symbolic meaning. I became particularly interested in the art of bonsai, then raising Nishikigoi.

A

All of this led to my interest in creating a Japanese garden in my backyard on Long Island, NY. Everywhere I travel, I seek and find a Japanese Garden to visit. Ideas are born and much gratification is felt. To relax and enjoy my surroundings gives me a sense of well-being and inner peace. While creating my own Japanese Garden, it inspired me to become a keeper of Nishikigoi. Soon after the garden was completed, I began to build my first Koi pond. Creating and building is never considered work to me. I enjoy every minute in the gardens during each season. Step by step, I learn a better, more efficient way to do the task at hand. For example, recently I discovered an easier way to move and place heavy stones. Somewhat of a more traditional Japanese approach which I had seen while watching a May 2015

My love and enjoyment of Nishikigoi continues to grow. I have been learning and evolving in this hobby since the mid 1950s. Thankfully in this day of social media and fast growing technology, there are many more resources to enrich my desire to learn all that is possible about these decorative carp. Thanks to my involvement with MAKC, I am fortunate to have met the most wonderful people with similar interests and passions for my life-long hobby. In the fall of 2002, I visited Japan, spending a week in Niigata, witnessing firsthand the daily process of a well known breeder. I was invited to participate in harvesting Koi, which was a memorable experience. I am blessed with nine grandchildren and they are all aware of Nishikigoi and its importance to me. They are learning from me many valuable lessons each time they visit. My purpose in writing this article is to share with you my passion of the hobby and to encourage you to share your experience by writing articles for the MAKC online magazine. Write about how you became interested in the art of Koikeeping and you will surely inspire someone. ! Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 41


Sunshine Column

ongratulations to RoseMarie and Herb Ehrich; they are celebrating their 30th Wedding Anniversary and the Arrival of their KOI!!

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1995 Koi Show in San Diego L to R: Charlie Atwell, Tom Graham, Joyce Glenn and Galen Hansen, photo by Brenda Atwell.

AKCA Judge Tom Ayers needs your prayers. He was in a coma in a Hospice facility. He is in need of a liver. Please send submissions for our Sunshine Column to - Carolyn Weise, Editor makcmag@makc.com â?–

www.makc.com Joyce Glenn, who was Editor of KOI USA and active member of AKCA passed away the end of January. Our condolences to Harlan and her family. Page 42 Mid-Atlantic Koi

May 2015


On the Road to a Koi Event May 23-24 Greater Louisville Koi & Goldfish Society 20th Annual Show Memorial Day Weekend www.louisvillekoiclub.com/annual_show.html

June 19 – June 21 PNKCA Convention (Pacific Northwest Koi Clubs Association)

31st Annual Convention and Pond Tour and Koi Organisation International 1st Ever Wet Lab and Get Together Held at the Red Lion River Inn Spokane, Washington Hosted by Inland Empire Water Garden & Koi Society. Updated information see our website www.pnkca.com

June 26-28 Midwest Pond & Koi Society Koi and Goldfish Show & Tradeshow Held at the Darien Sportsplex. http://www.mpks.org/

July 10-12 Tri-State ZNA Koi Show/Anniversary Event

Treasurer’s Report Submitted by Anthony Vitale, New York Beginning Balance Feb, 27, 2015 Income Advertising Membership Total Income

$16,681.30

$921.91 415.00 $1,336.91

Expenses Printing/Publications Total Expenses

$800.00 $800.00

Ending Balance March 31, 2015 Saving Balance

$17,218.21 $6,326.88

Club Total Balance As if March 31, 2015

$23,545.09 ❖

Held at Uwajimaya’s, Beaverton, OR, in conjunction with the Festival of Japan. Contact: Daren Beck, Show Chair @ beckoi65@gmail.com or 503-507-8510 Joel Rutledge. For more information visit the club’s website: www.nwkg.org

Held at Kodama Koi Garden Kodama in Saddle River, New Jersey. http://tristateznakoi.com/

Have an upcoming Koi event, please send the information to makcmag@makc.com. We will be glad to include it in future articles.

September 11-13 ZNA Potomac Koi Show

Don’t forget your own MAKC Club has events coming up that can be found in our digital magazine or at www.makc.com. We always need volunteers for meetings and shows. It is amazing how much you can learn by helping. Take advantage of being an MAKC member and participate in the club events.

Held at Meadowlark Gardens, Virginia; for information see our website http://www.znapotomac.org/show.htm

September 25–27 35th Annual Koi Show Northwest Koi & Goldfish Club (ZNA NW Chapter) May 2015

See you soon at a Koi event. ❖ Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 43


M A KC Me e t i ng s an d Eve nt s Central Chapter Meetings

Saugerties Chapter Meetings

May 2, 201

Sunday, May 17 3:00 pm

5 at Quality Koi 555 event, Carneys Point, NJ-for an informal meet and greet. Also the opportunity to see and purchase new Koi!

May 17 Held in Wyckoff, NJ joint meeting with Tri-State ZNA regarding ZNA Koi Show in July at John Lentzis, ZNA President, home. If interested in attending the meeting please send RSVP to kgwgclub@earthlink.net Future meetings • June 7 in Bridgewater, NJ • July 12 Newark, DE-maybe a summer BBQ • August 2 or 9 Bethlehem, PA- guest speaker Dr. Brian Palmerio • September -open • October 4 in Allentown, PA !

Future meetings • Sunday May 17, 2015 at Masonic Lodge in Saugerties • Sunday June 14, 2015 at John and Jan’s pond • Sunday July 19, 2015 at Paul and Harriet’s pond • Sunday August 16, 2015 Open • Sunday September 20, 2015 Open • Sunday October 18, 2015 at Herb’s pond • Sunday November 15, 2015 at Masonic Lodge in Saugerties • Sunday December 13, 2015 at Holiday Dinner at Roe and Herb’s Contact Herb Ehrich for further information about upcoming meetings - email Herb at koiking15@yahoo.com ❖

South Chapter Long Island Chapter Meetings • June we’ll host the Annual MAKC meeting at Bernie’s. Club members will also vote for Officers for the 2015/2016 year. The date is not set yet. We will be raffling Koi related items and we will be selling raffles for the Seneye Pond Monitoring System drawing in August. We will be bringing down Herb Ehrich, Saugerties Chapter VP, to act as "Raffle Master." More information to follow. • Pond Tour July 19, 2015, this will be an event for all current members of MAKC and members at large are also welcome to attend. • August BBQ looking for a host ! Page 44 Mid-Atlantic Koi

The South Chapter is planning on meeting during the summer months. If you have a suggestion for a program or topic please send it to the chapter Vice-President Alan Mickelson at alanmickelson@msn.com. ! Remember! MAKC members may attend meetings in any Chapter.

Send your meeting and event information to Carolyn Weise makcmag@makc.com Deadline May 3rd for the June 2015 issue. May 2015


F..A..S..T.. Ads – May Disclaimer: MAKC and its officers assume no responsibility for claims of advertisers or the quality/serviceability of goods offered.

FOR SALE Remember any MAKC member can list their Koi, pond, or related items for sale here in your magazine at no charge. Please contact Joann today if you have something for sale. BAMBOO. Winter hardy and tropical for indoors. Thinning collection. Reasonable prices. Call Ron Altman, NY 718-442-1673 (Office) or 908-658-3055 (H).

F..A..S..T.. Ads Policy & Deadlines F..A..S..T.. Ads are available FREE to MAKC members only; no commercial ads. Ads are limited to 10 items and must include name, phone number, town and state. Deadline is the 1st of each month. Help do you have an hour or two? We need a volunteer to manage this page. Please contact Joann Mead 845-389-5712 jo_mead@earthlink.net

May 2015

WANTED KOI. Foster Home. Large natural pond. Happy to accept your overgrown or unwanted “children.” Call Rich Menashe in Metuchen, NJ, 732-767-0720. KOI. Wanted Healthy Pond Grade KOI over 10˝. Will pay reasonable prices. I have a 750,000 gallon pond and will adopt any unwanted KOI. Call Joseph Pollock in Virginia at 540-788-9222. KOI. Wanted for large deep natural pond next to soon to be built wine tasting room in wine country of Northern Virginia. Happy to accept any and all Koi of any size and color. Stop by and visit them next year when our tasting room opens. Call Mark Malick in Purcellville, VA, 540-270-3399 (cell). KOI BITO MAGAZINES – in good condition. Send list with asking price, or call Roger Klocke 701-491-2803, E-mail at rklockejr@aol.com. Mailing address: Roger Klocke, 4805 Meadow Creek Dr., Fargo, ND 58104. KOI STORE EMPLOYEE. Looking for a knowledgeable Koi and pond hobbyist. Part-time, competitive pay. Outstanding employee discounts! Call John at Blue Ribbon Koi Products. 703-753-7566. MAKC SECRETARY AND MAKC SALES POSITIONS – are open; please contact club president Joann Mead for more information on how you can fill one of these positions. Joann Mead 845-389-5713 or e-mail jo_mead@earthlink.net. !

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 45


Mid-Atlantic Koi Ad Index ABC Pond Book . . . . . . . . . .12

Nisei Koi Farm . . . . . . . . . 8, 25

Hikari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3, 8

Pentair Aquatic

Kodama Koi Farm . . . . . . 8, 27

Eco-Systems, Inc. . . . . . 8, 15

Koi Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Quality Koi Company . . . 8, 25

Mazuri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8, 23

Total Koi Food . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Microbe-Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Next issue learn about the Goldfish variety the Fantail.

Advertise in Mid-Atlantic Koi!

Join or Renew Your Membership Submit Your MAKC Membership Form by printing out page 48 and mailing it in. Do it today, it only takes a couple of minutes.

Ad Rates from $15/issue* for a business card ad to $300/issue* for a full page color ad.

Reach your target audience of Koi keepers & water gardeners each month and leave your competition in the dust!!

Contact Joann Mead at 845-389-5712 (leave message) or e-mail: jo_mead@earthlink.net to request information on our advertiser packages and/or a copy of our ad rate sheet. *With an annual 10 issue contract.

Page 46 Mid-Atlantic Koi

May 2015


Picture to Share – MAKC Friendship Award at Central Florida Koi Show

his friendship award was given to Amy Howard for her Longfin, 1216" which was a very special Showa. The fish just called out for an award! As a side note, at the awards ceremony the committee was not able to locate this award when we were presenting it. So I presented a substitute award for the photo op and gave Amy her award when I found it. Photo by Bill Story.

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Do you have a picture to share? Please send them to the Editor, Carolyn Weise. makcmag@makc.com May 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 47


Mid-Atlantic Koi Club (MAKC) Individual/Family Application Mid-Atlantic Koi Club (MAKC) is an association of koi, goldfish and watergarden enthusiasts who gather to expand their knowledge and appreciation of the hobby. The club meets at convenient regional locations in the Mid-Atlantic area. We also publish an informative monthly online magazine (bi-monthly in Nov/Dec & Jan/Feb). The Family/Individual Membership dues are $30 per year. Membership renewal date is one year after membership application has been accepted. You will be notified when your membership is up for renewal. Please provide the following information: Date ___________ New Member _____ Renewing Member ____ Name_______________________________________________________ Address _________________________ City ___________________ State _____Zip _______ Phone _______________ E-mail____________________________________________ Please check all subjects in the following list that interest you, or that you would be able to assist the club with: _____ Have a Club meeting at your home _____ Pond construction, maintenance, filtration theory and practice _____ How to select Koi – their diseases and treatment _____ Feature your pond for members to visit or be featured on a Pond Tour _____ Share a special skill or knowledge at a meeting _____ Volunteer in the club (circle choices) President, Vice President, Recording Secretary, Membership Secretary, Treasurer, Newsletter Editor, Webmaster, Marketing _____ Are there any fish or pond related problems you need help with? If so, what kind? ____________________________________________________________________________ We do not sell/offer/trade/distribute member information to outside enterprises Please mail membership application along with a check (payable to MAKC) to our Membership Secretary or bring it to any meeting. You can also pay via credit card at www.Paypal.com. Our PayPal account email address is kgwgclub@earthlink.net You will be notified when your membership is up for renewal. Do not wish to have name published in Membership Directory please check box _______ MAKC PO Box 91 Ulster Park, NY 12487 Phone Number (845) 389-5712 E-mail: kgwgclub@earthlink.net Page 48 Mid-Atlantic Koi

May 2015


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