hdssaa

Sewing Bee SPECIAL!

NEW SERIES! NEW LINE-UP!

Ooh...Patrick is Back!

MAR 2019 ISS 121 £7.99

x

14PATTERNS Fast & Fabulous

for your me-made wardrobe

*Size ranges vary per pattern

FEEL-GOOD FROCKS & CAMI TOPS

WOW! Your NEWLOOK PATTERN

SIZES 6-22* CIRCLE SKIRT Just £10

COTTON CLASSIC

Suits-all style

Learn with US! 4 TILLY WALNES’ BEGINNER TIPS 4 EMBROIDERY KNOW-HOW 4 PATTERN HACKING LOW-DOWN

Helo... March Spring is here and the early bird in me can’t wait until the clocks go forward.

After I’ve got used to the morning wake-up call, the evenings feel so much longer – meaning more time to kick back and watch the Sewing Bee while making a project or two!

This month we’ve got two fabulous patterns to add to your new season set: the Simplicity 1200 circle skirt and the New Look 6560 rule top, that comes with a tie to delicately cinch in your waist. We’ve also got exclusive designs including a slip-on jumper dress, complete with a photoguide (p35), and a dreamy floral cami that’ll look great paired with your favourite jeans (p42). And if you make a mistake (haven’t we all?), we’ve got our troop of experts on-board to help you backtrack and ix the most common dressmaking quandaries on page 28.

Alongside our usual bumper dressmaking pages, we also sat down for a cuppa with illustrator Monika Forsberg (p41), who’s just launched her Savernake fabric range – if you love playful designs and splashes of colour, it’ll be right up your street!

And, we were lucky enough to grab ten with the Sewing Bee trio: Patrick Grant, Esme Young and Joe Lycett. I have a feeling it may be the best series yet!

Finally, I’d like to say a big congratulations to this year’s well-deserved winners of our British Sewing Awards, as voted by you and our panel of judges (p53). We were spoilt for choice with fabulous products, top workshops and new fabric ranges in 2018. Watch this space for next year’s exciting line-up!

24

Lucy xx

WOW! 20% off* Dragonfly Fabics on p7

Project exclusive to

sew!

TWO EASY PATTERNS INSIDE!

20%

Stitch this litle lion toy on p79!

sew free template download

sewmag.co.uk /templates

22

Lucy Jobber, Sew editor

OFF!*

HAVE YOU GOT YOUR FREE DOWNLOADS? Look out for our templates and patterns, then download and print them at sewmag.

co.uk/templates

*T&Cs apply

Top up your capsule wardrobe!

Get in touch! Share your creations, tips and views

@

editorial@ sewmag.co.uk

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Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY

sew in your March issue...

90

64 69

46

IN EVERY ISSUE

85 The books we’re loving

03 Welcome

53 British Sewing Awards

The latest must-reads

Sew this sweet accessory

64 Pom-pom pots

86 Your sewing guide

75 Dressmaker of the Year

Come and say hello!

Sewing jargon explained!

06 Who, what, wear

89 Next month

A front row seat to the competition so far!

What’s trending in the sewing world

17 Sew social You’ve been sharing your makes

Our April issue’s out on 7th March

TEA BREAK

45 Sew wishlist

41 Interview with Monika Forsberg

The team’s round-up for March

Sew chats to the Swedishborn illustrator

72 Stitch & learn

46 Great British Sewing Bee

Our top sewing class picks

53 68

60 Folded pocket bag

We reveal our welldeserved winners!

We’re simply buzzing for series five!

90 Style story: the nautical look Discover the beginnings of this iconic trend

Store your crafty supplies in these organisers

50 50

HOME 62 Tassel cushions Create picture-perfect pillows

GIFTS 50 Susie Johns’ culottes Jazz up a pair of trousers with embroidery

58 Floral sash Add a touch of glamour to any frock

66 Confessions of a sewing addict Corinne reveals 2019’s comeback crafts

68 Play mat Create a kids’ play area

68 Upcycled pillow Transform an old pair of jeans into a wonderful cushion

60

69 Patchwork pinny What could be better for storing your habby stash in?

69 Aarnie the Aardvark Our mascot was lovingly named by a Sew reader

77 Stuart Hillard Our columnist searches for fresh spring ventures 04

sewmag.co.uk

58

FREEBIES & OFFERS

82

2

Dressmaking pages of fashion,

PATTERNS INSIDE!

Use your gifts to sew wrap tops and floaty skirts

30 garments & more!

10 Three trendsetting tops Efortlessly transition from day to night with this pattern 13 Beautiful bottoms Use your pattern to make six chic skirts 20 Lustrous material Feel fabulous in our selection of crepe de chine fabrics 22 Joan blouse Stitch a gorgeous front-detailed top

24 Aubrey dress Make a statement in this easy-going number 26 Sewing with Tilly Master your sewing machine 28 Sewing SOS Our experts’ top tips for backtracking mistakes 30 Debbie Shore’s show and tell A straight-forward tutorial for full bust adjustments

22

10 42 20% off* DRAGONFLY FABRICS

32 Indie pattern news Don’t miss out on these independent brand picks 34 Lauren Guthrie’s top tools... for pressing 35 Martha dress Learn how to create raglan sleeves and in-seam pockets 38 Love your machine Invest in top-quality Baby Lock machines 40 Fashion forecast Find out the oicial colour of 2019 42 Monika top Become a pro at clipping curves, adding darts and sewing buttonholes

7 06 20% OFF* Glorailia Bag yourself a bargain on embroidery kits!

07 20% OFF* Dragonly Fabrics Stock up your stash with fabrics this spring!

56 Subscriptions Receive a FREE* waterfall jacket pattern and fabric when you subscribe!

78 Create and Craft ofer Get the Little Red Boots ribbon range for just £10!

82 WIN! Giveaways Feeling lucky? Enter to win £1,100+ of fantastic prizes

Subscribe today...

84 Reader ofer Claim a FREE* Sew Fabulous Fabric book Mustard

STITCHY PRIZES TO WIN! Enter online at

Navy

DISCOVER TWO FABULOUS FREE*GIFT OPTIONS, PLUS MACHINE PRIZES UP FREE FOR GIFTS GRABS

sewmag.co.uk

SEE PAGE 56 AND 88 05

sewmag.co.uk

24

FREE NEXT MONTH... 89

TWO DRESSMAKING PATTERNS! STYLISH TOPS & CLASSIC DRESSES

wear

who what

&

The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

Child’s play Are your little ones just as creative as you? Then these craft sets from Djeco are perfect for them! They’re guaranteed to be a hit with budding dressmakers, as these kits allow them to make colourful outfits for paper dolls, which they can embellish with glitter, ribbons, rhinestones and more to bring their visions to life.

Visit djeco.com for stockists.

Fabric fever At Sew HQ, we love a brand-new fabric range, and we bet you do, too! The latest collection from designer Edyta Sitar is called Bed of Roses, and features a wonderful selection of beautiful loral patterns and coordinating hues – they’re ideal for whipping up a whole host of projects, including patchwork quilts and other homeware creations.

Visit makoweruk.com for stockists.

All-in-one Step into spring with the Ravine dress from Papercut Patterns! This easy-wear garment features a gorgeous bias cut with a plunging V-back, waist tie and optional strap across the back for comfort.

There’s also a sleeveless option which has beautiful cross-seam detailing along the bottom front. Make this frock in a swishy, lightweight material, such as silk, rayon challis or chifon for an elegant look. £19, backstitch.co.uk

Vintage Florals Add a retro twist to your next sewing project with the brand-new Tilda Applebutter range! There are 20 fresh, colourful designs in the collection which include loral and dotted prints. However, not only does the range include fat quarter bundles, but also sewing patterns and haberdashery items such as ribbons and buttons, so you’ll have everything you need to whip up some gorgeous springtime creations.

Email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

* F F O % 0 2

glorafilia!

Bag yourself a bargain this month with this splendid ofer from needlework brand, Glorailia! By using discount code SEW20, you’ll receive 20% of* your next purchase on one of the many embroidery kits Glorailia has to ofer, including everything from pet embroidered cushions, to picture perfect décor. p82 glorafilia.com

3

to win!

06

sewmag.co.uk

*Valid from 4th February 2019 until 18th March 2019. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

If you buy one pattern...

Kit out your closet for the upcoming season with the New Look Misses’ tunic and tops pattern. The pack ofers you the opportunity to create ive diferent variations with multiple sleeve styles and lengths, plus you’ll be able to master sewing with all kinds of fabrics, from gingham and seersucker to georgette and linen. £7.50, sewdirect.com

BEGINNER blouse

Mirri top, £29.95; rosehip skirt W65, £65; patty plain tights, £12.50, whitestuf.com

The Adrienne blouse from Friday Pattern Company is not only perfect for newbie stitchers, but it will also help to advance your skillset by enabling you to practise sewing with a knit fabric. This stylish pattern design is all the rage at the moment, too, with its gorgeous billowing sleeves which are gathered at the shoulders, and elasticated hems on the cufs.

For stockists, visit hantexonline.co.uk

Casual style

20% OFF!*

The easily adaptable Darling range contains three pattern variations, including a dartless blouse, a sweet frock and tunic shirt dress.

The pattern features a deep V-neck, button-up front, high waistline, large pockets and several sleeve lengths to choose from. This easy-sew essential can be worn fitted or loose to suit your style.

20% off* Dragonfly Fabrics Introduce a splash of colour into your stash with this fabulous 20% off* discount at Dragonfly Fabrics! To claim this amazing offer, simply visit the website and enter discount code SEW20 at the checkout to bag yourself a selection of stretchy ponte roma and silky rayon challis materials. dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

£13.25, megannielsen.com *Valid from 4th February 2019 until 7th March 2019. Cannot be used in conjunction with sale items.

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SPRING STYLE collection

Is that the sunshine we see? Warmer days means it’s finally time to roll up the hems, switch up the fabrics, and get started on a wardrobe fit for the new season! This month brings hand-sewn style with softly pleated tops, jersey dresses and breezy cotton skirts.

PAGE

13 the

get stitching with your easy patterns

CIRCLE SKIRT Give us a twirl in this simple midi make

PAGE

10 rule

WRAPOVER A feminine top that’ll hug your curves in all the right places

our pattern PROMISE

All of our patterns are available in sizes 8-20* * Covermounted gifts may vary 08

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PAGE

22 geometric

CROP TOP Layer up with a cotton crossover designed to wow

PAGE

42 fancy

FLORAL CAMI Prep for summer days with a button-up basic

PAGE PAGE

35

24

jersey

frilled

JUMPER DRESS

HEM FROCK

Whatever the weather, you’ll look gorgeous in this slip-on

Supreme comfort topped of with a drop hem detail 09

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Discover the YOUR BONUS PATTERN

potential

In association with the STITCH IT WITH

of your

A-series

2BONUS

patterns

Start stitching for spring with your TWO EASY-SEW PATTERNS! Begin with New Look 6560, which features three wrap top variations with multiple sleeve lengths and styles to choose from. Each option gives you the chance to practise sewing with a lightweight fabric, as well as the opportunity to master inserting interfacing, attaching frills, and stitching darts and French seams.

clip those CURVES On the front of the garment, especially around the neckband, it’s important to make sure you clip the curved edges. All this means is that you need to snip close to the seam allowance, taking care not to cut into the stitches. By doing so, this will reduce the bulk from the edges and seams, enabling the fabric to lie lat and give the garment a professional and comfortable inish.

pick your NEEDLE Our dressmaker chose to create this wrap top in a linen material – a soft, breathable fabric which is ideal for spring time and beyond. For best results when sewing with this type of material, you should use a universal needle, ideally in a size 90.

Prym Premium Universal Sewing Machine Needles size 70 to 100, £2.49 for five, minervacrafts.com

We used Essex Linen in White, £12 per metre, sewhot.co.uk

finish the FLOUNCE The rules on variation A and B shouldn’t be too diicult to manage, especially if you’re using a linen fabric. Just make sure the fullness of the rules are kept at right angles to the seam and that they are evenly-spaced. Also, in order to give the lounces and sleeves a less bulky inish, it’s a good idea to use an overlocked edge.

choose a THREAD If you choose linen for this garment, or even if you fancy making the top a bit more glamorous by stitching it in a silky fabric, then make sure you use a lightweight cotton or polyester all-purpose thread.

gathering UP To make any of the three options for this pattern, you’ll need to add in some gathers. When creating them, just remember to pull on the bottom thread only as this will enable the fabric to move more freely and provide an even inish on the gathers. To help you distinguish between the top and bottom thread, you may want to use two contrasting colours.

fabric LOVE When making a timeless essential for your We used Mettler Seralon wardrobe, linen is a great choice. Not only Polyester General Sewing Thread in Eggshell, is it cool and comfortable, but it can always but you could add colour be found in a variety of colours and prints, by using Brick Red plus it can be easily dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Just remember thread, £2.79 for 200m, minervacrafts.com that this fabric has a tendency to fray, so make sure you complete any raw edges and seams to achieve a polished inish.

10

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Floral Print Cotton Fabric Multi, £9.95 per metre, abakhan.co.uk

find out what your second pattern has to offer ON p13

STITCH IT WITH In association with the

A-series your bonus pattern

3 stylish

style selector

wrap tops

style a FLOATY NUMBER This ultra stylish variation features a crossover rule, long billowing sleeves with elasticated cufs, and a tie belt to nip it in at the waist for a igure-lattering inish.

Sport cool,e casual stylC with design

style B SPRING STAPLE Version B is a must-have for the warmer months! This design is similar to option A, but it also gives you the option to create loaty capped sleeves.

style C PEPLUM PERFECT We love the simplicity of option C, with its V-neck wrap bodice and bow-tie side.

Its plain neckline also makes this version ideal for a casual day out.

11

sewmag.co.uk

In association with the

A-series

size

the right

OUR COVER STAR!

what’s your size?

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit sewdirect.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

BUTTON UP This pattern requires you to use a button to secure the wrap-around section. To make sure it sits perfectly, remember that when attaching it onto a single layer of fabric, you should start by cutting a small circle of material to about the same size as the button, then sew it behind the button as you attach it to the garment. By using this neat little trick, you’ll ensure that you don’t accidentally pull the button through the fabric and tear it.

why we made STYLE B Our dressmaker chose style B to show off the gorgeous capped, frilled sleeves and delicate crossover ruffle along the V-neck front.

FINISHING TOUCH

Trousers, £35, marksandspencer.com; bracelet, £10, next.co.uk

If you want to simultaneously stretch your sewing skillset while jazzing up this top, then don’t be afraid to go all out and use a bit of glitz! Attach some sparkly material for the frill, or alternatively, add a delicate touch with a lace tie belt.

However, if you do choose to use lace for any part of the garment, remember to gently wash it first and allow it to dry before you use it. This will get rid of the heavy starch which is used to keep it neat and tidy on the bolt.

FRENCH SEAMS Each design on this pattern requires you to sew French seams on the flounces, which are great for making sure no raw edges are visible. If you’ve chosen a silky fabric for this, it may slip and slide around, so make sure you pin the seam so that it stays at the edge and the material doesn’t distort as you sew.

12

sewmag.co.uk

In association with the

A-series

creative bonus patterns

with your

get

The Simplicity 1200 pattern is incredibly easy to sew, so it’s an ideal starting point for any newbie stitchers. There is also a selection of six styles to choose from, with diferent lengths, waistbands and hems. You’ll be able to add a delicate overlay to design C, too; opt for a soft sheer fabric or lace to polish of this stylish number.

follow the NAP For each design on this pattern, the skirt will be cut crosswise, which means you must carefully consider the pattern matching of the fabric; for example, if you have a material with vertical stripes on it, then these will appear horizontally across the centre front and back. Equally, if the fabric doesn’t have a pattern, then you still have to make sure you follow the direction of the nap so that all of the pieces sit the right way on the inished garment.

Our dressmaker used Candy Woven Chambray Stripe in Tangerine Orange, £7.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

measure UP

adding the HEM Before creating a hem on the bottom of the skirt, it’s important to hang it up for at least 24 hours beforehand.

This is a vital step as the bias cut parts are likely to drop down a bit overnight, so hemming straight away would mean that the inal garment may come up shorter than you’d originally planned!

Daisy Embroidered Cotton Lace Fabric in Dusky Pink, £9.95 per metre, abakhan.co.uk

Necklace, £12, next.co.uk; top, £19.90, uniqlo.com

Before cutting out the pattern pieces for this garment, it’s best to take your waist measurements accurately irst before cutting and attaching the waistband. This will help to ensure that you achieve the perfect it. Likewise, prewashing the fabric is also a good idea in order to prevent any shrinkage once you’ve made up the skirt.

Leather Look Dill Button in Maroon, 79p each, abakhan.co.uk 13

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In association with the

dream

3 machines party140 BUILT-IN STITCHES

£749 ready dresses

INNOV-IS 1100

Necklace, £17.50, Marks & Spencer; shoes, £22.99, New Look; bag, £15.99, New Look; bracelet, model’s own

This model is ideal for both beginner and experienced dressmakers alike, with its large 8.3in work space, selection of 140 built-in stitches and 10 automatic one-step buttonholes. The machine also offers five lettering styles in uppercase, an automatic thread cutter, a lock stitch function and the ability to combine and memorise new stitches so you can truly personalise your projects and make them your own.

TWIN NEEDLE SETTING

A-series

6

skirt styles YOUR BONUS PATTERN

£399

INNOV-IS A50

The Innov-is A50 is part of the brand-new Brother series! This particular model has a total of 50 built-in stitches, including five which are dedicated to buttonholes, an advanced oneaction needle threader, a quick-set bobbin, a super easy speed control and a twin needle setting. Plus, if you enter our Dressmaker of the Year competition, you’ll be in with a chance of winning one of these fantastic machines!

Turn to page 71 for more.

Visit brothersewing.co.uk

Sizes 10-18 (US)

Sizes 10-18 (US)

Next month’s 2 BONUS patterns 14

sewmag.co.uk

SEASONAL STAPLES April means that the warmer months are upon us, and with these Bardot and wrap top styles, plus a swishy dress pattern to hand, you’ll be ready for the sunshine in no time!

sew YOU!

You lovely lot have been doing what you do best – sewing!

Here are some of our favourite makes you’ve sent in...

I made this Barbie dress for my daughter out of vintage fabric. It has a Velcro back fastening to keep it secure, just like a true doll’s frock!

Charmaine West

This is a colourful fidget cushion I made.

Francesca Maddox

We love both sides of this pillow, Francesca – it’s so fun!

I want to share my version of the 6397 pattern from your September issue. I live in Canada, so there’s a time lag before Sew reaches our stores, hence the delay in testing the jacket!

Patricia Josey

I received a sewing machine last Christmas and I set myself the goal of being able to make a dress I would be proud to wear out in public. One year later and I’ve made a lot of lovely dresses, but my favourite is this New Look 6524 one from Sew’s November issue.

Anna Wood

Find Aarnie on

p69

Say Helo to Arnie the Aardvark

My son recently got engaged to his childhood friend who has two daughters from a previous relationship, so I’ve suddenly gained two granddaughters!

The youngest of the girls has beautiful red hair, so I decided to make her a doll that looks just like her.

Tricia Ross

chosen by you Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our issue’s mascot.

“The mascot is a chunky aardvark. He looks very strong which immediately made me think of Arnold Schwarzenegger! Also, Arnie the Aardvark rolls off the tongue nicely.”

Maggie Thomson Jones, Sew reader Help us to choose a name for next month’s mascot at facebook.com/sewhq 17

sewmag.co.uk

Maggie has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk

Continued overleaf

social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

www.minervacrafts.com

Write in and WIN! My friend asked me to make some cushions using her late husband’s ties. She’s going to give them to her grandchildren – I think it’s a lovely idea.

Gill Rich

I’ve been creating lots of tops recently!

Emma Dalzell Kitching

This is the Coco dress from Tilly and the Buttons – it’s fabulous value for money as this is the ninth time I’ve used it!

Lorna Hulme

We love the neckline, Emma!

I watched a quick tutorial on YouTube to learn how to make rag wreaths.

September Chapelle

Spring wreaths are now our new favourite thing!

I’m preparing for the Stitch4Charity sale by making these ‘bedtime buddies’ from my Cath Kidston scraps.

I made this skirt from the free pattern in your January issue.

Nickie Richardson

Julie Winfield

These are adorable, Nickie!

on the sew blog...

We share why we’ll be treating ourselves to the Brother A-series this spring!

Have you ever wondered what Instagram accounts the Sew team love?

We can’t wait until GBSB is back on TV, so we’ve rounded up four reasons why we love it!

Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 18

sewmag.co.uk

sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

stitch&share

HHHH HH

Share your latest stitchy triumphs with Sew! COASTER OVERLOAD

H

sew

I’ve just finished sewing a whopping 60 coasters for a gardening club celebration!

Caroline Power

STAR letter

H

SEW INSPIRING

I started stitching two years ago to help myself recover from mental health struggles. To get me out of a dark place, my husband bought me a sewing machine, and I’ve not looked back since – I signed up to some workshops and off I went! Crafting saved me, and now I’m enjoying my amazing job as a nurse and spending my free time making dresses like this one!

PROUD PUP I stitched this commemorative neck bandana for my dog to wear to the National Memorial Arboretum.

Kath Harris

SO COLOURFUL

Sarah Louise Hague

A multicoloured hopscotch mat.

Allison Maryon I made this for my 12-year-old niece who loves this type of doll!

I enjoyed crafting her and I’m so pleased with her unique style.

Claire Dolby

MAGICAL MASCOT My very cute unicorn mascot.

Fiona Ovens

TWIT TWOO Percy the Penguin from Sew’s January issue!

Gail Mcknight Anderson

This wash bag is for my mum who loves owls Laura Hargreaves

Percy looks fantastic, especially with his yellow button eyes!

Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 19

sewmag.co.uk

Ffion Mair Crepe de Chine, £54.95 per metre, libertylondon.com

Concerto Crepe de Chine, £34.50 per metre, libertylondon.com

Crepe de Chine in Tree Blossom, £29.50 per metre, beckfordsilk.co.uk

Blumenthal Orange Flower Buttons.

For stockists, visit hantexonline.co.uk

CREPE DE CHINE SAY HELLO TO THIS MONTH’S ‘IT’ FABRIC This silky sleek dressmaking fabric literally translates to ‘crepe of China’, and is a ine woven material which is spun using alternative twists. It’s a irm favourite amongst us dressmakers as it’s one of the easiest materials to sew with, ofering great drape with a pebbly matte surface.

Prym Universal Sewing Machine Needles size 70/10, £2.39 for five, minervacrafts.com

Mixed Print MidiFrill Dress, £42, little-mistress.com

Paisley Crepe Blend, £6.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Crepe de Chine in Sweet Cherry, £29.50 per metre, beckfordsilk.co.uk

Country Garden Dusty Rose Silk Crepe de Chine, £29.50 per metre, beckfordsilk.co.uk

Sew Over It Florence Dress, from £9, sewoverit.co.uk 20

sewmag.co.uk

Seralon thread in shades Barewood, Pink Grapefruit and Danish Teal. For stockists, visit amann-mettler.com

Stylish and lightweight, it’s the

JOAN BLOUSE sew free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Meet the top that’s guaranteed to add a little spring to your step! This Amanda Walker make is ideal for unpredictable weather as it can be layered over a jersey tee and paired with jeans and pumps for ultimate seasonal style, plus the asymmetric line across the front makes it a real stand-out piece. The garment is also perfect for beginners as it gives you the opportunity to master simple stitches and bias binding, but doesn’t include any fussy fastenings!

make a

4

Pin and sew the bias binding around the neckline, then fold it over to the wrong side of the neckline. Pin and edgestitch, sandwiching the raw neckline inside. Trim any excess at the shoulders. Zig zag stitch the back and front shoulders, securing the overlapping pieces.

WRAP FRONT BLOUSE Get started • Fabric, 1.5m (150cm) • Lining, 1m (150cm)

Sizes

5

Pin and sew the shoulders together, then press the seams. Turn and iron the base of the back piece by 1cm, then another 2.5cm. Pin the front pieces over the back, right sides together, then sew the side seams and neaten the seam allowances.

8-20

Cutting guide Front: Cut one pair in fabric and one pair in lining Back: Cut one on the fold in fabric Sleeve: Cut one pair in fabric 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

6

Line the base of the front panels with the 2.5cm press line on the back.

Wrap the back hem around the base of the side seam, leaving the fold in place. Sew the hem along the side seam stitching line, then fold it inside the blouse and edgestitch.

1

Download and print the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Pin the front fabric and lining pairs, right sides together, then sew the slanted edges and base. Trim the corners, turn out and press.

7

Using the stitch length five, complete a line of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves from the front to the back notches. Neaten each sleeve, then pin and sew, right sides together. Press and turn out.

2

With right sides facing up, lay the front right panel over the left, matching the necklines and shoulders. Pin and stitch the four layers around the front neckline with a 1cm seam allowance. Clip the allowance and turn the left side over the right.

8

Pull up the gathering threads and place the sleeves in the armholes, matching the notches. Pin and sew the side seams and underarm seam of the sleeves together, then neaten. Fold the sleeve ends by 1cm, then another 2.5cm and edgestitch.

3

Under-stitch around the neckline and topstitch 2.5cm from the slanted front edges and across the base of both front panels. Cut a bias strip of fabric, 4cm x 30cm, then fold and press 1cm on either side of it.

22

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill: BIAS BINDING Bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric cut obliquely and is used to bind or decorate edges; in this case, the binding appears on the top’s neckline. Although our dressmaker has decided to create bias binding out of the main material, you can use a contrasting print to give the garment a statement look – this works particularly well on pockets, too.

SIZ ES

8 -2 0

sew SHOPPER ************************

Project exclusive to

sew!

CRYSTALLINE BLUE This stunning premium cotton by Art Gallery Fabrics is super comfortable to wear and even easier to stitch with as it’s lightweight and the threads clearly show the nap direction.

CHERRY GERANIUM If you want to steer away from blue hues, why not opt for this popping pink fabric? The Oval Elements material will ensure that your make stands out from the crowd.

Visit hantexonline.co.uk for stockists. ************************ thank you for shopping!

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Your outfit dilemmas are over! Meet the

AUBREY DRESS sew free TEMPLATE download sewmag.co.uk /templates

It can be tricky to find a balance at this time of the year as the temperature swings from cold to warm (and back again), but this transitional go-to is the answer to all of your wardrobe woes! Sport Julia Claridge’s chic tunic dress for a fun, easy-going look or throw it over a pair of jeans for those slightly chillier days. Featuring whimsical floral prints in bright hues, you can really make a statement whatever the weather.

sew a

DROP HEM TUNIC Get started • Fabric, 1.4m (150cm) • Lightweight interfacing

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Front facing: cut one on the fold in main fabric, one on the fold in interfacing Back facing: cut one on the fold in main fabric, one on the fold in interfacing Sleeves: cut one pair Skirt: cut two 1cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

1

Download and print the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide.

With right sides together, join the front and back neck facing at the shoulder seam. Neaten the inner raw edge by overlocking or turning a narrow 5mm single turned hem.

2

Join the front and back pieces at the shoulder and sleeve seam, right sides together, then neaten the raw edges and press. With right sides facing, match the sleeve head notch to the shoulder seam, pin and stitch the sleeve around the armhole, then neaten.

3

With seams matching and right sides together, pin the neck facing to the neck edge, then clip the seam.

Under-stitch the neck edge.

With right sides together and seams matched, sew the underarm seam starting at the sleeve edge and continuing to the bodice edge.

4

Join both side seams of the skirt, right sides together, then neaten the raw edges. Sew two rows of long gather stitches around the upper edge of the skirt. Gently pull the gather threads until the size is the same as the lower edge of the bodice.

5

Pin the skirt to the bodice, right sides together and seams matched, stitch and neaten the raw edges. Make single turned 2.5cm hems on the skirt and sleeve. Hand-stitch the facing shoulder seams to the garment ones to complete.

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

Project exclusive to

SEWING JERSEY

sew!

A ball point needle is great for sewing knit fabrics because it has a round tip and pushes the fibres aside when sewing rather than piercing them. Alternatively, a stretch needle would also work well. Size 75/11 and 80/12 needles work best for light- to medium-weight knits, whilst a 90/14 needle suits heavier fabrics.

SI Z ES

8-20

sew

SHOPPER ************************

tip!

CLOUD9 FLOATING BOUQUETS Vivid hues and whimsical florals combine to create a lightweight jersey that’s perfect for creating a timeless spring staple. For stockists, visit hantexonline.co.uk

For this project, use a stretch or ball point needle and a medium shallow zig zag or stretch stitch.

************************ thank you for shopping!

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Sewing with Tilly FEEL CONFIDENT AND IN CONTROL OF YOUR MACHINE-STITCHING It’s always a good idea to take your time and follow instructions precisely when sewing a new garment on your machine – that’s why Tilly has put together six tips to remind you to do just that! For experienced dressmakers, there will be a couple of useful prompts listed below, and for beginners, pay attention to Tilly’s invaluable advice to get your stitching journey of to a lying start!

Use the hand wheel. If you want to start or end the stitching line at a certain point, for example when you’re turning a corner, use a hand wheel instead of a foot pedal as turning the wheel towards you will make the machine sew slowly.

1

Highlight the seam allowance guide.

This guide tells you how far the stitching is from the edge of the fabric. Keep the edge against these lines to sew a uniform seam allowance, and if it’s diicult to see, highlight the most used line with a coloured label.

2

3

4

5

6

Line up the seam. With the needle placed to one side, align the seam line with the central groove of the presser foot. Keep in this position as you sew so that you end up with a line of sewing which is exactly parallel to the seam line.

Pin wisely. Using a lot of pins can achieve a neat result, but too many will prevent the pieces lying flat. The number of pins should be the minimum needed to hold the material in place. Also, remember to pin with the heads sticking out so it doesn’t distort the fabric.

Shift the needle. The seam allowance guides won’t always produce accurate results, so use the seam line itself. Many sewing machines have a stitch setting which shifts the needle 2-3mm to the left, and other machines allow you to move it to the right.

Draw the stitch line. When sewing a corner or complex shape, draw the stitching line onto the wrong side of the fabric to help you see exactly where you need to pivot, and remember to use a chalk pencil or washable pen so that the markings disappear afterwards.

For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com 26

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sewing

SoS Psst, our experts share their secrets for covering up sewing mishaps!

Q

The stitching on my latest make is so uneven! How do I fix it?

And what can I do to prevent it from happening again?

Charlotte Mackenzie

Sharon says It can be disheartening to put time into a sewing project and not be completely happy with the result. Here are several things to check before beginning: irstly, make sure that the scissors are sharp and use the whole length of the blade when cutting out, as nibbling at the fabric with a blunt pair may result in an uneven edge.

Secondly, always use a fresh needle on your machine at the start of each project and check that it’s the correct size for the chosen fabric: for example, a high number needle such as a 100/16 is best for thick materials like denim rather than ine fabrics. Also, it’s a good idea to practise sewing on a scrap piece irst.

Finally, try using the lines on the metal plate to the right of the presser foot; these are a set distance from the needle and will help you to sew a straight line. Remember to watch the line while you stitch, not the movement of the needle!

Sew Over It’s Ultimate Culottes £9, sewoverit.co.uk

Q

I used scissors to rip a seam and now I have a hole in my fabric! How can I cover it up?

Eleanor Turner

Rosie says

MAXI DRESS, £29, jdwilliams. co.uk

Uh oh! What you need to do is ind some fusible interfacing which is a similar weight to your fabric; this usually comes in white or black so you can decide which colour will look the most subtle behind the material.

Cut a piece big enough to cover the rip and add a 5mm border, then iron it to the wrong side of your fabric. The next job is to stitch around the hole using coordinating thread either by hand or machine; this will secure the interfacing and ensure that the rip doesn’t get any bigger!

Esme embroidered jacket, £69, monsoon.co.uk 28

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Skinny jeans, £20, tuclothing.sainsburys.co.uk

here to

help

ROSIE BOYCOTTBROWN

Rosie is a team member at Ray Stitch, a stylish haberdashery shop which prides itself on its range of tools and accessories. raystitch.co.uk

SHARON RUSS

HANNAH & ROSIE

Sharon is a tutor from Sew Creative, a textile shop full of wonderful fabrics, inspiring workshops and excellent sewing machines. sewcreative.org.uk

Hannah and Rosie own The New Craft House, a delightful sewing company that specialises in workshops for the younger generation.

Q

I forgot to pre-wash my denim before making a pair of jeans, now I’m halfway through construction and I’m worried they won’t fit after I wash them. What should I do?

Josie Eastwood

Hannah says Don’t worry, we’ve all been there! The first thing to do is to give all of the cut pieces a quick steam – this is certainly not an alternative to prewashing, but it’s good enough!

If you’ve just added in the jean’s fly, I recommend you use a reduced seam allowance for the rest of the construction as this will mean that you can’t do flat-felled seams but can use overlocking to finish instead. Before completing any topstitching, tack the jeans and waistband, then adjust if necessary. Also, if you’re using stretch denim, the jeans are going to be a little more forgiving on the fit, but remember that denim does stretch over time so a little tightness to begin with isn’t necessarily bad!

thenewcrafthouse.com

top 4 ESSENTIALS

Accidental rips, wonky seams, uneven pattern pieces – the list goes on! Luckily for us, Prym has a whole host of tools to give us the confidence to fix our mishaps.

Seams be gone Small stitch rippers

Snip snip Dressmaking scissors

Cutting edge Jeans sewing needles

tip!

Washing fabric is something us stitchers do to avoid shrinkage. But if you've forgotten to prewash, simply give all of the cut pieces a quick steam or, alternatively, fill your sink up with cold water and hand sponge them.

Mid-wash jeans, £90, purecollection.com

Cover up Assorted repair sheet ALL PRODUCTS ARE FROM PRYM – VISIT PRYM.COM FOR STOCKISTS.

Got a stitchy question for us? Email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk or message us at facebook.com/sewhq and we’ll do our best to answer it!

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The majority of patterns are designed to fit a B cup, which means that many of us will need to make an adjustment to cater for a fuller bust.

To decide how much your pattern has to be increased by, measure around the fullest part of your chest while wearing your bra, and underneath the armpits. If the difference is 2.5cm, you are an A cup, 5cm is a B cup, 7.5cm is a C cup and so on.

If the pattern has been drafted for a B cup and you need a C, you’ll need to add 2.5cm to the pattern to make it fit, then 5cm for a D; continue to add 2.5cm until you’ve got your size.

Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT 1

2

3

DIY DARTS

SNIP AND STITCH

ADD IT UP

Draw a line through the centre of each dart, extending out so they meet. Sketch to the armhole, 1/3 of the way from the side seam.

Mark the seam allowance around the armhole.

Cut the waist dart, then across to the armhole, stopping at the allowance. Snip into the side dart.

Measure a 2.5cm gap between the two front pieces; if you have a pattern cutting mat, this may make the process easier.

4

5

6

MIND THE GAP

FIT AND FINISH

CUTTING CURVES

Fill in the gaps with spare pattern paper, which you can cut from the sides of your pattern, then extend the legs of the side dart.

Cut across the waist adjustment line and move the piece down, then fill in the gap with pattern paper and redraw the dart lines.

The bottom of the pattern will now be 2.5cm wider. If your pattern is curved, a rounded ruler will help with this process.

For more great tips from Debbie, visit halfyardsewingclub.com 30

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S T FR O M I N

DE

P

Paper

E

T

H

E EB

N

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S I Z ES

NT

D E SI G N E R S

SIZ ES

DE

NDIE pattern

0

Brome Dress

18 6-

by Fancy Tiger Crafts Diiculty:

SIZE S6

Meet the Brome dress, a button-up basic with three fabulous options to stretch your stitching ability: a knee-length dress with three-quarter

sleeves, a simple-sew shirt and sleeveless maxi dress.

Subtle gathers at the yoke make for a flattering fit without the need for darts, and the slightly scooped neckline is finished with a minimal band collar. £18, fancytigercrafts.com

0 -2

Calyx Smock

by Pattern Fantastique

Joan Trousers

Diiculty: Bringing a distinctly utilitarian vibe, the Calyx smock was first inspired by a seventies hairdressing apron, but has since evolved into a closet classic that’s oh-soeasy to sew! The pattern is suitable for all kinds of woven fabrics, from fine sheer silks for full floaty romance to a structured mid-weight denim.

by Friday Pattern Company

£8.99, patternfantastique.com

From £10.90, fridaypatterncompany.com

Paper

Diiculty: Classed as ‘treggings’ – a nifty hybrid of trousers and leggings – the Joan pattern is so easy to make – you can sew it in an evening and be rocking the look at work the next day.

Expect to ramp up your sewing skills with belt loops and a button, scoop pockets and an optional sash belt.

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sew DRESSMAKING

Aestiva Sleeveless Vest

by Wearologie

Omsk Dress

Diiculty:

Diiculty:

SIZ 8-18

From £12.60, wearologie.com

by Louis Antoinette

ES

The Aestiva vest is the perfect layer to dress up any outit and instantly feel like a style goddess!

Available in two diferent lengths, the short version is designed to be worn just above the waistline. Finishing touches include a classic mandarin collar, as well as fancy piping to frame your neckline and waist.

Omsk is a pretty frock that packs a punch with pockets and frills, plus you’ve got the option to play with contrast piping for a vintage efect. For this pattern, choose a light and lowing fabric, such as crepe or satin in rich jade tones, or keep cool with casual linens and cottons.

From £9.90, louisantoinette.com

SIZ ES

ELODIE DAGUIN

16 6-

SI Z ES

0 4-2

Flatiron Coat and Jacket

by The Sewing Workshop Diiculty: The weather may be getting warmer, but you can still prep for nippier days with the Flatiron pattern! The loose-itting coat has dropped shoulders, full sleeves, side vents and draped lapels with a three-snap closure, while the jacket ofers a shorter length with a few extras thrown in. Make yours in no-fray wools and wovens.

From £18, sewingworkshop.com 33

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Lauren Guthrie’s

TOP TOOLS for pressing W

ith dressmaking, pressing is just as important as the actual sewing when it come to getting a neat, crisp and professional finish.

I always have my iron and ironing board set up at the side when I stitch, as I find it useful as another surface to work on when pinning and marking things out too. Here are my favourite accessories to help make the job much easier!

4

5 2 1

3

1 PRESSING CLOTH

2 SILICONE FINGER GUARDS

3 IRONING BOARD COVER

4 SLEEVE BOARD

5 TAILOR’S PRESSING HAM

You can buy a pressing cloth, but a piece of cotton such as calico or muslin works just as well. It helps to prevent a sheen on your fabric and stops any marks transferring, plus if you dampen it, the extra steam will latten out creases.

These handy tools from Prym will help to give you grip on the fabric and act as a safety barrier against the heat and steam, especially when you’re using the point of the iron and need to get it close to your ingers. £4.35, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

Not only does this Prym ironing board cover look lovely, it’s super useful too!

The grids can help when you have to measure and iron at the same time, such as when you’re pressing up hems. £20.50, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

A handy wooden sleeve board is ideal for narrower sections of garments, such as sleeves and cufs.

I ind it useful when I’m making children’s clothes, too. Prym Sleeve Board, £16.90, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

This Sew Easy tool is great for pressing in curves and creating shape – think darts and sleeve heads. The irm rounded shape of this ham will help you to really mould the fabric. £9.99, email groves@stockist enquiries.co.uk.

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YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Stitching with jersey 3 Creating raglan sleeves 3 Adding in-seam pockets

sew DRESSMAKING

sew masterclass

Stitch and go in the

MARTHA TUNIC In need of a new go-to outfit?

Fiona Hesford’s easy-wear tunic is just the ticket! This loose-fitting number suits all shapes and sizes, plus it will have you mastering in-seam pockets and raglan sleeves, as well as learning how to sew with sweatshirt or stretch jersey fabric. Pair the garment with bright pops of colour to add some fun to this casual ensemble.

Get started • Jersey or sweatshirt fabric, 1.9m (150cm)

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Front side: cut two Back: cut two Back side: cut two Sleeve: cut two Pocket: cut four Neckband: cut one 1cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

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stitch a RAGLAN SLEEVE TUNIC Sewing the front, back and pockets

Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING l Visit sewmag.co.uk/templates to download and print the pattern, then transfer any markings onto the fabric. l When sewing with jersey, it’s best to use a ball point needle which pushes the fabric apart rather than cutting through it. l Jersey doesn’t usually fray, so it’s ok to leave the edges unfinished, or if you prefer, you can use an overlocker. l Remember to nick the seam allowances at the marked 5mm points.

1

First, sew the back pieces together with right sides facing, then press. Cut and stick a square of masking tape onto the fabric in order to indicate where the front section of the sleeve and the marked front side pieces should be.

3

Pin one pocket to the front at each side, aligning the slanted edges with right sides together, then sew. Press the seam towards the pocket, then topstitch.

Align the markers and repeat for the other pocket with the front side and sleeve pieces, then press.

Stitching the neckband

4 When choosing your fabric, bear in mind that the inside will be shown when rolling back the cuff

2

With right sides together, pin and sew the front side to the front of the sleeve on each short side, then press the seams open. Pin and sew, right sides together, one side back section to each sleeve back section at the short sides, then press the seam allowance open.

Sew the front to the sleeve at the slanted edge and around the pockets, right sides together, then press. Stitch the back to the sleeve at the slanted edge, right sides together, and press. Pin the lower straight edge of the pocket to the body at the front sides, then tack.

5

Stitch the front to the back at the side edges and the sleeve underarm to the marker line, 6cm from the raw cuf edge. Pin the 6cm cuf raw side edges, wrong sides together, then sew and press.

Fold over the sleeve cuf by 3cm, then again another 3cm, leaving the raw edge uninished.

6

Join the neckband at the short edge, right sides together. Sew the neckband to the right side of the neck, aligning the join to the centre back seam. Fold and press the neckband up to the wrong side. Fold under 1cm, then pin and encase the raw edges, then hand-stitch. Hem the lower edge to inish.

sew SHOPPER EARN YOUR STRIPES A classic striped garment should be a staple in everyone's wardrobe, and this Carolyn Friedlander – Blake Cotton Jersey in Stripes Fog is perfect. £11 per metre

PETROL BLUE This incredibly soft Melange Cotton Jersey in Denim Blue is ideal for creating a neutraltoned, easy-wear garment for lazy spring days. £10 per metre

ALL FABRICS ARE FROM raystitch.co.uk 36

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TIMELESS PRINT Go dotty for this striking green and white spot fabric! The interlock knit material is ultra soft and comfy, plus it’s made from organic cotton. £11 per metre

sew DRESSMAKING

sew free pattern download

SIZ

sewmag.co.uk /templates

E

S8 -20

Project exclusive to

sew!

Core Skill: Bag,, £19.50, marksandspencer.com

RAGLAN SLEEVES If you’re using a regular sewing machine when creating the raglan sleeves on this garment, then it’s best to join the seams by using a narrow zig zag stitch that’s between 2mm-2.4mm long by 1mm-1.5mm wide. Also, remember to make sure you back-tack at each end.

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!

E N I g n i w H e s r C u o y A m r o f M Trans

r u o y e v o L

Treat yourself to a

EVOLUTION

Unleash your creativity with the Evolution AUTO-SET machine! The TENSION model combines cover stitching with overlocking, and includes a jet air threading system, an automatic tension setting, an overlock wave stitch, and the option to sew with up to eight threads at once to make your stitching experience easy and fuss-free.

Price: £2,198

machine!

ENSPIRE Enspire is a competitively priced machine which has everything you need!

It features a manually operated jet air threading system, a needle threader, and a tension dial which you can adjust to give you complete control over your sewing, plus it comes with a four-year extended warranty at no extra cost.

JET AIR THREADING

Price: £899

ENLIGHTEN The Enlighten machine is incredibly easy to use, with its automatic jet air threading system which enables you to thread the needles or loopers in any order, and an auto-tension which self-adjusts the tension according to fabric thickness. You can also create a wave stitch, which is unique to Baby Lock models and great for adding a decorative touch to your projects.

UNIQUE WAVE STITCH

Price: £1,349 38

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sew PROMOTION

KEY FEATURES: 3 Jet air threading 3 Auto needle threader 3 Knee lift 3 Speed control 3 Decorative wave stitch

EASY-SEW MACHINE

The Gloria model really is the queen of all Baby Lock machines! It combines cover stitching and overlocking, and has plenty of space to work on large projects, which means you can create decorative stitching in the middle of a make, rather than just at the edges. There’s no need to worry about the tension when overlocking either, as the auto-thread delivery system adjusts this for you. Plus there’s a total of eight threads – four for the overlocker and four for the cover stitch – all of which can be easily distinguished by their own thread paths.

Baby Lock Gloria, £2,995. Find your local stockist at babylock.co.uk

OUR EDITOR’S PICK!

“This easily convertible machine is a must-have for cover stitching and overlocking projects”

SHOP of the

MONTH

Rutland Sewing was established

DESIRE 3 What’s not to like about the Desire 3 machine? It blends overlocking and cover stitching with up to five threads, and incorporates a whole host of wonderful benefits, including a jet air threading system for all of the loopers, and an auto-tension which means it can detect the thickness of your fabric and adjust it accordingly.

Price: £1,698

in 2013, and is located very close to the renowned nature reserve, Rutland Water. The shop ofers a wide variety of workshops and welcomes adults of all abilities, as well as young children. The store is well-stocked with a range of sewing machines, overlockers, pressing equipment and cutting tables. Tutorials are given for all of the machines too, plus the shop provides a handy repairs service. In the surrounding area, there is also a garden centre and café, along with other independent retailers nearby – so why not make a day of it?

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WHAT’S ON OFFER? 3 Sewing patterns available 3 Wide selection of Baby Lock machines 3 Range of workshops 3 Dressmaking and quilting fabrics 3 Haberdashery items 3 Services and repairs Visit Rutland Sewing, Unit 1A, Rutland Village, Rutland Garden Centre, Ashwell Road, Oakham, LE15 7QN. Alternatively, visit rutlandsewing.co.uk or call 01572 756468.

Stitch the Look

WHY NOT TRY? 1

LIVING CORAL 2

It’s oicial – Living Coral is Pantone’s 2019 colour! Every year, the brand picks a hue it feels best represents the following year; this decision is based on everything from upcoming trends and holiday spots, to lifestyle choices and new technologies.

So what is it about coral that’s so great? According to Pantone, the colour is ‘social and spirited’, and a joy to wear as it embodies the summery months ahead. Plus, it can be found on a whole host of printed fabrics, such as these top

3

4

Rich coral sweater, £75, purecollection. com

5

“At Sew Creative, we love Pantone’s Colour of the Year!

Living Coral is the ideal hue for every season as it complements many fabric types; for example, you can pair it with denim for a relaxed look and it’s also great for adding a pop of colour to home décor projects such as quilts.”

1 Cotton in Chiveley, £12.40 per metre 2 Cotton in Hedgerow, £12.40 per metre 3 Cotton in Garden Fruit, £12 per metre 4 Cotton in Leaf Trail, £12 per metre 5 Cotton in Meadows, £12 per metre

Harriet Block, Shop Manager at Sew Creative

All of the featured fabrics are available from sewcreative.co.uk

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Playful, fun and rewarding to sew, it’s the Turn to p41 for Sew’s interview with Monika!

sew a

CAMI TOP Get started • Fabric, 1.5m (150cm) • Five small buttons • Lightweight fusible interfacing

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide Front: cut one pair Back: cut one on the fold Front facing: cut one pair in fabric and one in fusible interfacing Back facing: cut one on the fold 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

1

Download the template at sewmag.co.uk, print and follow the cutting guide. Stitch the darts into the front top pieces from the edge to the points. Press the darts towards the armholes, then neaten the side seam edges and the curved edge of both front and back pieces.

2

Position the shoulders of the front and back pieces, right sides facing, then pin and stitch the shoulder seams together.

Press the seam allowances open.

Fuse the interfacing onto the front facings and neaten the curved edges across the base of the back facing.

3

Match, pin and stitch the shoulder seams, right sides together, then press the seams open. Flatten the top pieces, right sides up, and lay the facing on top, right sides down. Match the necklines and, down each front

MONIKA TOP Renowned illustrator, Monika Forsberg has transformed her magical designs into dressmaking material, and our designer Amanda Walker has made it into this wonderful cami! This make is the perfect way to test your stitchy skillset as you can practise adding darts, clipping curves and sewing buttonholes, plus with Amanda’s easy step-by-step instructions you’ll be sporting this spring tee in no time! opening, pin and stitch from the base of the front facing to the neckline and down to the base on the opposite side.

4

Clip the curves, then understitch. Lay the top pieces out as before, matching the edges of the facing and top around the armholes, then pin and stitch together. Clip the armhole seam allowance and turn right sides out by threading the front top parts through the shoulders.

5

Tease out the seam allowance around the neckline, armholes and front opening, then press.

Match the side seams together, pin and stitch from the notches indicated on the template to the underarm and into the facing, making sure the armhole seams stay open.

6

The side seams and small part of the facing are one continuous seamline. Press the seam open, then fold the facing inside the top and secure the edge to the side seam. Fold and press 5mm around the base of the top. Unfold the front facing base, and stitch it in line with the pressed hem.

7

Trim the bulk from the corners and fold the facing inside. Edgestitch the hem, around the front curve, across the side seam, around the curved back, across the opposite side seam and back to the front. Mark and stitch five buttonholes on the right-hand side of the front opening. Handstitch buttons on the opposite side in corresponding positions.

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill: SEWING BUTTONHOLES When sewing buttonholes, it’s important to make sure that you stitch until the end of each sequence before starting the next one. Also, check that the button is lying flat and wedged tightly in the holder on the foot, and that the lever to the left of the needle is pulled all the way down.

sew free TEMPLATE download sewmag.co.uk /templates

SIZ

ES 8-20

sew SHOPPER ************************

Project exclusive to

BLISSFUL BLOOMS Monika Forsberg’s Savernake Road print is influenced by colourful birds and beautiful flowers! This cotton is an excellent choice for spring garments as it’s a soft, breathable textile. £15 per metre, thecraftymastermind.co.uk

sew!

************************ thank you for shopping!

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INTRODUCING ...the brand-new Gemini Stitch sewing machine, the ideal starting point for any crafter wanting to start their sewing adventure or reignite their love for sewing. Unlock the full potential of the Gemini Stitch by allowing it to join creative forces with the Gemini die-cutting machine and take mixed-media projects to a whole new level!

Visit www.crafterscompanion.co.uk for more information

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sew PROMOTION

The team’s top picks for March

Wish Lis t

March: the time when we can finally say that the dreary days of winter are over! The great thing about the cool months though is that you have an excuse to spend all day inside sewing, so if you’re looking for a reason to hibernate for a little longer, then these Sew approved items are just the ticket!

Sewing Secrets

Fabulous Fish

Debbie Shore’s unmissable book, Sewing Room Secrets brings you ten must-make projects to build your confidence! This read is jam-packed with tips for successful machine sewing, such as the essentials you need in the craft room, troubleshooting tips and a glossary to help debunk unfamiliar terms. £9.99, searchpress.com

Danielle Clough’s pieces are works of art, and that’s not a phrase we use lightly! Her embroidered hoops are delicately stitched and incorporate neat beading, while the vibrant splashes of contrasting colours bring the fun factor to her makes. The artist’s hoops will look chic hanging up in any room! Goldfish hoop, £123, danielleclough.com

Spring in Your Step Florals are the ultimate design for spring, and Online Fabrics has a huge selection of new fun, flowery material. Choose from a soft, breathable cotton lawn which is finely woven, or 100% cotton that can be whipped up into sweet dresses or used for patchwork. Whatever project you decide to create with these materials, it’s bound to see you through the spring months and beyond. From £4.99, online-fabrics.co.uk

Co ol Too l Turn to p82 to win!

You don’t have to be tech-savvy to get the most out of this next pick! The computeraided pattern drafting tool let’s you plan how to put your fabric to good use: simply photograph the material, position a selection box on the image, then drag and drop your chosen pieces. Fittingly Sew 2, £159, softbyte.co.uk

Sew many Possibilities

Jumper Loving

Megan Nielsen’s Jarrah sweater is here to solve all of your ‘is it too warm for a jacket?’ problems! This loose-fit, dropshoulder top features four amazing options, each with unique cuffs, sleeve lengths and hems, plus version C gives you the opportunity to add a waist tie.

The versatile jumper is available in sizes 0-20, and the pattern envelope contains detailed instructions to guide you through its construction. £13.30, megannielsen.com

Introducing Crafter’s Companion’s brand-new patchwork dies! The Gemini multimedia set comes in four different designs, including Apple Core, Tumbler, Dresden and Orange Peel, and each one contains a range of sizes which makes them ideal for every kind of project, from quilts and bags to homeware creations. From £24.99, crafterscompanion.co.uk

Tell us your favourite products by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk 45

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The Bee is Back!

We go backstage to uncover the secrets behind the much-anticipated series five Words by Sophie Demetriades

T

he Sewing Bee is back this February, and we’re simply buzzing with excitement for the fifth installment of the muchloved TV show – we expect you are, too!

Once again, this year sees amateur stitchers compete against each other in innovative tasks over an eight-week period, as well as the return of fashion designer Esme Young, plus Savile Row tailor Patrick Grant. There’s also a few changes, namely the appearance of comedian Joe Lycett who will be stepping into the shoes of quick-witted presenter Claudia Winkleman.

Last year’s season finale reached a whopping four million viewers, and it seems BBC Two’s top-rated show is set to soar as us crafters just can’t get enough of it! So without further ado, the Sew team are ready to give you the inside scoop on what to expect from the upcoming show and some of the latest Sewing Bee secrets from Joe and the judges.

The low-down from Joe Lycett Despite becoming the new face of GBSB, comedian Joe confesses: “I have no sewing skills whatsoever! At school, I did cooking and

woodwork but that was about it. I do like painting though, so if there was a portrait painting show then I’d be all for it!

“I’m usually quite a keen learner. I now know what a dart and a hem is, so I understand more than I did, but please don’t test me! Saying that, since doing this show, I’m now much more aware of how my clothes are made; I look at how seams are finished and check my clothes for pattern matching, which I never would have done before.”

“I’d only ever seen parts of the show, but it’s my mum’s favourite; she’s a keen sewer and so is my

“I’m now much more aware of how my clothes are made” sister Beth – she really loves it. She came along to some of the filming, too. Recently, she got a new sewing machine which I decided to have a go on, and one of the embroidery patterns that comes pre-programmed is a pig. I don’t know what kind of disorder the pig had that I sewed though; it didn’t come out well!

“My favourite thing has definitely been getting to know all of the contestants. We’re a really close-knit group; I even have a WhatsApp chat with all of them and we meet up fairly regularly.”

Patrick and Esme discuss sewing tactics with Charlotte

Behind the seams with Patrick Grant There’s a few new parts to the programme this year, as Patrick reveals: “There’s Joe, of course – he’s brought new energy to the show. We’ve also got a whole week on repurposing, so every garment will be made from something which has had a previous life. In one challenge, they had to use discarded festival tents – people think they’re so cheap, why bother taking them home? But it’s such a waste of a precious resource, and it just contributes to the negative environmental impact.

“One of the contestants who came on the show actually made something from an old sofa, which shows you can literally repurpose anything! I hope more people watching the programme are made aware of how to create sustainable clothing. ‘Buy less, buy better, keep longer’ – that’s my mantra."

“You can literally repurpose anything!”

“The show has a charm about it; it features everyday people from all walks of life and age groups – this year’s contestants are aged from 27 to 70! And it’s so emotional, too, especially when the contestants are put under pressure. It can be tricky not to help them out sometimes, so instead

Season four’s winner, Charlotte Newland 46

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Photography by BBC/ Love Productions/ Mark Bourdillon

We expect to see lots of striking coats like this pink one!

we’ll ask a question to elicit a certain response, or they’ll ask a question that can’t be answered so we’ll just raise an eyebrow!

“The complexity has increased with each series and the standard is always exceptional. In the irst season, they used quite basic fabrics, but now they’re expected to be able to handle more complex materials that are woven and stretchy.

The irst challenge for this series was deinitely the hardest yet, but they all did really well – we’re very impressed with the talent this year.

“One piece of advice I gave to all of the contestants is if you’re going to do something with a garment to make it a statement piece, then don’t be apologetic about it – be bold!”

Sewing Bee secrets from Esme Young Year on year, the standard on the show has been increasing, making it incredibly diicult to decide who should leave, as Esme explains: “All of the contestants are amazing and it’s so hard to say goodbye to one each week. Last series, I was so upset that I cried! We all make friends for life on this show, and everyone’s really committed to each other.

“The shortest task this year took about an hour and a half, whereas the longest took up to seven hours – a very long time to concentrate.

But it’s all worth it in the end as we get to see

“Working with your hands is incredibly therapeutic–it's very mindful” their personalities shine through their makes.

In fact, that’s how I started sewing; I wanted to make something personal to me – it’s how a lot of people get into making their own garments.

“Not all viewers who watch the show will make their own clothes, but it would be great if it makes them think about creating their own and hanging on to them, rather than spending money on items which they will throw away. A lot of people do something which I call a ‘feeding frenzy’; for example, when you go into a shop and there’s clothes all over the loor, you might buy a cheap £3 top and wear it just once, but this has such a negative impact on the environment and many people aren’t aware of this.

“There are other beneits to making your own clothes, too.

Working with your hands is incredibly therapeutic – it’s very mindful. A friend of mine has mental health issues, so I’ve been helping to do sewing classes at Homerton Hospital by showing people how to make decorated laundry bags.”

Get the latest GBSB updates @sewhq on Facebook and Instagram

“I'm so excited for this year's series to air and I'm hoping it will inspire even more people to take up sewing - the beneits for both the environment and mental wellbeing really does make it worth it.”

Funnyman and new host, Joe Lycett

Follow us @sewhq on Twitter where we’ll be live-tweeting every episode!

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sew PROMOTION

Totally organic There’s nothing the Sew team love more than organic thread that stitches effortlessly, and these two picks hit the needle on the head! The olive cotton is a great option for a multitude of crafty projects, and the petrol blue version is ideal for statement stitching. £2.75 for 100m

Pr e t ty pe tals Can you get any more traditional for spring than this floral fabric? The woven satin is scattered with field flowers, each with a pop of colour – it’s the perfect material for making a summery frock or long-sleeve blouse. £19.95 per metre

m o r f s k ic p p o t r Ou

L I T S FF &

STO

Everyone’s favourite Danish brand, STOFF & STIL is bursting at the seams with trendy fabrics, colourful thread, sewing accessories and more! We can’t get enough of its unique products, so we’ve decided to share some of our favourites with you - enjoy!

Roarsome zip Take a walk on the wild side with this stand-out zip! The funky piece comes in three sizes with either an open or closed end. It would look fantastic adorning a make-up pouch or, if you’re feeling a little more daring, a bomber jacket. From £5 per zip

Upholstery ma gic We can’t get enough of this velvet upholstery material. STOFF & STIL has chosen to show off the rose fabric as a cushion, but you can use it for any homeware projects such as curtains, tablecloths and chair covers. Best of all, the material is durable and doesn’t shrink when you wash it — win-win! £8 per metre

A bug’s life We’re taking a leaf out of STOFF & STIL’s book and ditching butterflies in favour of other creepy crawlies. This cicada would look brilliant embellishing a kid’s tee or dress, and you can even include some of the critter’s pals as the embroidered patch also comes in the form of a glittery moth and a blue-hued beetle. £2.25 per patch

Head to stofstil.co.uk to find all of these products and more!

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SPRING INTO THE NEW SEASON WITH

Susie Johns’

Get started • Cotton or linen trousers • Embroidery thread, six-strand: white, brown, yellow, green, red, orange, black • Erasable pen • Embroidery needle • Embroidery hoop

CABLE STITCH CULOTTES

At this time of year we’re busy planning what to wear when the weather gets warmer – so why not get started by decorating a pair of spring-to-summer trousers with a stylised flower design? Cable stitch is a fabulous technique to add to your embroidery repertoire as it can be used to add texture to lines, both straight and curved. Also known as side-to-side stem, cable creates a line that has stitches on either side.

Cable Stitch

sew

1

Draw a stitch line: the needle will go in and out of it, working from left to right, while the stitches lie above and below it. Bring out the thread at the beginning of the line and insert it a little way along.

Bring the thread back up through the fabric halfway between the two points, with the thread lying just below the line. Pull up the thread so that the stitch lies flat; this will look very similar to stem stitch.

Make another stitch by taking the needle into the fabric a little way along but this time, when you take it back up through the fabric at the end, make sure the thread lies just above the line. Continue with stitches overlapping and alternately lying below and above.

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Project exclusive to

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

“Choose trousers made from a cotton or linen fabric without stretch. It will be easier to work the embroidery if the legs are quite wide, as this allows you to place them in a hoop” Susie Johns, Sew designer

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Embroider the design

1

Download the template at sewmag.co.uk. Transfer the design to the trouser leg, near the bottom hem, using an erasable pen so that the lines can be removed after the embroidery is inished.

Place a section of the fabric into an embroidery hoop and use two strands of thread for the needle in your chosen colour.

Following the drawn lines, embroider using cable stitch.

Move the hoop to a diferent section as you complete each area of the design. Add French knots, which are indicated on the motif as small dots. When you have inished the embroidery, remove the hoop and gently press the work on the reverse.

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Classes and workshops for all abilities and all types of sewing.

Our excellent facilities include quality sewing machines, large cutting tables and friendly staff. ✓ Sewing Machines ✓ Fabric ✓ Patterns ✓ Haberdashery ✓ Books

For more information please visit our website and on-line shop

www.rutlandsewing.co.uk or call us on: 01572 756468 Rutland Sewing, Rutland Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham LE15 7QN

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AND THE WINNERS ARE...

We’re thrilled to announce the results of our leading awards The British Sewing Awards gave you the opportunity to nominate your crafty favourites and, after totting up your votes, we’re delighted to reveal the winners!

This year more than 8,000 sewing enthusiasts helped to decide the final results, and we want to say a massive thank you to everyone who spared five minutes to have their say!

So, without further ado...

SCOTLAND Winner: The Peacock and the Tortoise Highly commended: Mandors Fabric Store Buttons and Blethers

BEST INDEPENDENT RETAILERS

NORTH OF ENGLAND Winner: Dolly’s Haberdashery & Sewing School Highly commended: Oh Sew Sweet Shop @ The Hut BST Fabrics Deirdre and Sinead, owners of CLOTH in Dublin

IRELAND Winner: Sew Unique Fabrics Highly commended: Fiddlesticks Fabrics CLOTH

Lauren Guthrie in her sewing studio

MIDLANDS Winner: Guthrie & Ghani Highly commended: The Cotton Patch Crafty Sew & So

Calico Kate at last year’s Sew Saturday

SOUTH OF ENGLAND Winner: Lady Sew and Sew Highly commended: Sewisfaction Eclectic Maker

WALES Winner: Calico Kate Highly commended: J&B Sewing Machines Lee Mill Fabrics 53

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CONTINUED...

“Winning an award is always such an honour, I’m really grateful that people appreciate my work and have taken the time to vote. To be nominated is wonderful in itself, but to win is one of the highlights of my year – thank you!”

FAVE SEWING MACHINES ENTRY-LEVEL Winner: Janome Highly commended: Brother Singer

Debbie Shore, winner of Most Inspirational Sewing Personality

ALL-ROUND Winner: Janome Highly commended: Brother Singer QUILTING Winner: Janome Highly commended: Brother Bernina EMBROIDERY Winner: Brother Highly commended: Janome Bernina

OVERLOCKER Winner: Brother Highly commended: Janome Singer TOP-SPEC Winner: Janome Highly commended: Brother Bernina

PRODUCTS BEST UK CHAIN Winner: Hobbycraft Highly commended: Abakhan Fabrics John Lewis

HANNAH READBALDREY’S PICKS BEST INSTAGRAM Winner: @TillyandtheButtons Highly commended: @HouseofPinheiro @SewOverItLondon

BEST THREAD BRAND Winner: Gütermann Highly commended: DMC Madeira

BEST INDEPENDENT PATTERN HOUSE Winner: Tilly and the Buttons Highly commended: Sew Over It My Handmade Wardrobe

BEST MAJOR PATTERN HOUSE Winner: Simplicity Highly commended: Vogue New Look BEST SEWING SOFTWARE BRAND Winner: Brother Highly commended: Janome Bernina

“When your passion is to encourage and inspire others, there isn’t a better feeling than getting some love back!

I feel very privileged to have been nominated, so thank you to everyone who voted for me.”

BEST FABRIC CUTTING MACHINE Winner: Brother ScanNCut Highly commended: AccuQuilt GO! Cricut Maker

Rachel Pinheiro, highly commended Best Instagram and Best Sewing Blog

“As a small family business, we were very excited to be nominated. The team at Girl Charlee are proud of our fabric quality and customer service, so to be highly commended is like pockets in a dress or a perfect stripe match!”

WAYNE HEMINGWAY’S PICKS BEST SEWING BOOK 2018 Winner: Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch!

by Tilly Walnes Highly commended: Tilda Sunshine Sewing by Tone Finnanger Sew Your Own Activewear

by Melissa Fehr

Mark Creasey from Girl Charlee, highly commended Best Online Retailer 54

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ONLINE BEST ONLINE RETAILER Winner: Minerva Crafts Highly commended: Create and Craft Girl Charlee BEST SEWING BLOG Winner: Tilly and the Buttons Highly commended: The Fold Line Rachel Pinheiro

FRANCES TOBIN’S PICKS Tilly’s new pattern, the Ness skirt

“Thank you so much to everyone who voted for us this year. To win felt absolutely amazing and we can’t wait to share what we have in store for 2019!”

© Rachel Whiting

Vicki Herron from Minerva Crafts, winner of Best Online Retailer

STUART HILLARD’S PICKS

BEST NEW PRODUCT 2018 Winner: House of Textures range Highly commended: Hantex Organic Sewing Thread Vlieseline Stretchfix Tape

“We’re over the moon to be runners up in the BSA – the award is highly-recognised in the industry. We believe our achievements are down to the dedication of our staf and our loyal customers.”

Abakhan Fabrics, highly commended Best UK Chain

BEST FABRIC BRAND Winner: STOFF & STIL Highly commended: Liberty London Art Gallery Fabrics

RESOURCES AND ACTIVITIES MOST INSPIRATIONAL SEWING PERSONALITY Winner: Debbie Shore Highly commended: Tilly Walnes Lauren Guthrie

STOFF & STIL, Best Fabric Brand

TOP SEWING WORKSHOPS Winner: Craftsy Highly commended: Crafty Sew & So The Sewing Cafe BEST EXHIBITION/ EVENT Winner: The Knitting and Stitching Show Highly commended: Festival of Quilts Stitching, Sewing and Hobbycrafts, ExCel

MOST OUTSTANDING SEW SATURDAY EVENT 2017 Winner: Sew Creative Highly commended: Sewing Room Calico Kate

“We’re a very small team, so to have our hard work recognised in the awards is amazing!

Our independent pattern range, My Handmade Wardrobe, is only a year old, and to be in the same category as some of our favourite brands is just mindblowing!”

Crafty Sew & So, highly commended Best Independent Retailer, Best Independent Pattern House and Top Sewing Workshops

“Congratulations to all of our well-deserved winners and highly commended stars!”

Lucy Jobber, Sew Editor 55

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THE GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE IS BACK!

Stunning Waterfall Jacket Pattern & Fabric Plus WIN a Sewing Machine!

FREE*when you subscribe to sew!

Celebrate the GBSB by treating yourself to this exclusive FREE* gift

This waterfall jacket is flattering, on-trend and perfect to drape over a dress for a cocktail evening or to jazz up a jeans and top combo.

“With no buttonholes or fiddly fastenings, this casual throwon is the ideal make for newbie stitchers, and those looking for a quick project to whip up in an afternoon.”

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WOW!

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TWINKLING BEADS AND RIBBON COMBINE IN THIS

floral sash The perfect way to transform a gown from drab to fab is with this beautiful corsage sash from Dorothy Wood! Each lower is shaped from diferent types of ribbon, then stitched onto a wider length; the bow can be tied at the side or at the back depending on where you want the extra feature. Nestled amongst the blooms, you’ll also ind round and pear-shaped fancy stone crystals from Swarovski.

sew free diagram download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Get started • Ribbons, various colours • Organza, various colours • Swarovski crystals: four-hole round crystal button 3008, 15mm golden shadow; round, fancy pear-shaped stones • Settings: round, pear-shaped • Webbing • Interfacing • Strong beading thread

Cuting guide Satin ribbons: Yellow, 4cm x 3m Blue, 25mm x 50cm Pink and teal, 12mm x 1m Organza: Blue and pink, 35mm x 30cm Blue, 25mm x 20cm Coral, 30mm x 24cm

Sew a floral sash

1

Cut a 2.25m length of yellow ribbon for the base. To make Kanzashi lowers which use a Japanese folding technique similar to origami, prepare a length of thread with a small knot in the end. Begin with a square for Kanzashi lowers; cut eight 4cm lengths from yellow ribbon.

Following the diagrams at sewmag.co.uk, fold a ribbon square in half diagonally, then fold the two outside points down to the bottom point of the triangle.

Holding the bottom points in place, turn the folded diamond shape over to the reverse side.

Fold the side points into the centre, then fold the shape in half lengthways, bringing

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the two outer edges together.

Hold the folded petal and stitch the two outer edges together near the bottom, where the side triangles fold inside. Sew to the front of the petal, add a few stitches to secure, then tuck in and snip the tail.

Create seven more Kanzashi petals in the same way. Trim across each petal just below the stitching. Using a new length of thread, sew through the middle of each petal where each is stitched together.

Bring into a lower shape and sew in the thread end to secure.

You can add running stitch through all the petals on the reverse side slightly further out to strengthen and stabilise. Make more lowers in diferent sizes using the organza ribbons.

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To make the large ive petal satin ribbon lower, cut ive 8cm lengths of 20mm ribbon.

Following the diagrams, fold the ribbon in half to ind the middle of the length. Open out and bring the two long edges together, sew with tiny stitches in the middle and trim the tail neatly. Place the raw ends together so that the stitching is hidden inside creating a ‘V’ shape point.

Sew in running stitch across the ends through both layers, pulling up to gather the end, then secure. Repeat with the other four lengths of ribbon. Cut a 2.5cm circle of interfacing and sew on the ive blue petals in a lower shape. Fix a yellow Kanzashi lower on top, and position on the middle of the ribbon base. Sew in place, adding a crystal button to inish.

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To make coiled roses, cut two 2.5cm circles of webbing and snip a hole in the middle. Tuck one end of the pink satin ribbon down the hole and begin to twist. Stitch invisibly as you go, twisting and coiling the ribbon round. Tuck the end underneath and sew in position.

Repeat with the teal ribbon. Make smaller versions of ribbon roses to ill any gaps on the sash.

Lay the lowers in an arrangement of your choice, then attach securely onto the backing ribbon using invisible stitching. Sew on the fancy stone setting with beading thread, and a length of ribbon on the reverse side to cover the stitching. Turn under 5mm at each end and, using tiny stitches, oversew to secure and hem the ends.

sew gifts

tip!

If you want a bit more support, add a layer of interfacing between the ribbon layers.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

TWINKLE, TWINKLE Brighten up your belt with pretty Swarovski crystals, beadsdirect.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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SEW YOURSELF A SLICE OF BAG BLISS WITH THIS

sping pouch

Get started • Printed fabric: polyester, acrylic and metal mix, 50cm • Yellow toile, 50cm • Yellow poplin lining, 50cm • Thin iron-on interfacing, 50cm • Gold zip, 30cm

Cuting guide • Front panel: cut one from printed fabric, cut two from lining • Back panel: cut one from printed fabric • Back flap: cut one from yellow toile • Patch pocket: cut one from printed fabric

It’s time to add some zing to your outfit with a bright and cheerful project, that’s the perfect size to stow away your essentials. Designed with a contrast flap that will beautifully complement your chosen patterned fabric, this bag can be carried by hand or tucked under your arm.

Make a folded bag

1

Download the template at sewmag.co.uk, then print out and follow the cutting guide. Iron thin interfacing onto the front and back printed panels. Prepare the pocket by hemming the upper edge of the pieces as follows: fold in 1cm along the edge, then iron.

Repeat and press. Stitch 1mm from the edge, then turn in the other three sides by 1cm and iron in the folds [Fig.1]. Clip the corners [Fig.2].

Place the pocket in the centre of the back lining in the position marked on the pattern and pin into place. Stitch around three sides of the pocket, 1mm from the edge [Fig.3]. Sew round again, 5mm from the first seam.

Align the flap with the back, right sides together, and stitch along this edge.

Press the seam up, then topstitch 1mm from the seam to secure in place.

Place the zip on the back panel, right sides together. Lie the back lining on top, right sides together, sandwiching the zip between the two fabric pieces.

Secure with pins, then stitch and repeat for the front panel.

Push the zip to the top and open it a little way. Sew together the front and back panels of the bag, right sides together. Stitch the front and back of the lining, right sides together, leaving an opening of around 10cm in the seam at the bottom. Hand slipstitch the bottom of the bag or topstitch on the machine.

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3

sew gifts

sew

Get the

BOOK

free template download

Discover even more stylish bag designs in A Beginner’s Guide to Bag Making by Estelle Zanatta and Marion Grandamme. £12.99, searchpress.com

sewmag.co.uk /templates

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ADD A BOHEMIAN TWIST TO SOFT FURNISHINGS WITH

tasel cushions

Project exclusive to

sew!

The spirit of the seventies is alive and well, and there’s no better way to add some retro styling to your home than with these cushions created by our designer Corinne Bradd. Pay homage to an era that time certainly hasn’t forgotten with stunning vintage fabrics; adding various coloured tassels around the edge of the cushions will give your makes a nostalgic touch, too.

Get started • Cotton fabric: patterned, plain • Quilt wadding, 2oz • Cushion pad • Coloured yarn • Chipboard • Zip

Create tassels

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Cut a chipboard rectangle, 5cm x 10cm. Turn landscape and cut out a 5mm deep slot halfway across the board and 1cm down from the top to create a tassel maker. Wind yarn around the 5cm width of the tassel maker, holding the chipboard on the unslotted side and winding the yarn over the other half. Keep it taut and wrap between 10 and 20 times depending on the thickness of the yarn and the desired fullness of the tassel.

Snip a 30cm length of yarn and thread under the wraps using a darning needle. Pull it to the top of the tassel and tie it in a tight reef knot. Cut a 20cm piece of yarn and wrap it several times around the hank where the slot is. Tie this of tightly and slide the tassel of the chipboard.

Allow the short ends of yarn to hang down with the rest of the tassel loops and keep the longer ends at the top. Cut the loops and trim the base of the tassel so that all of the ends are level. Take the top long ends and tie a series of ive reef knots in them to create a chain. Keep the ends long as these will be used to attach the tassel.

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Stitch the pillow

1

Cut a square of patterned fabric the same size as the cushion pad and trim a 3cm wide strip of a plain coordinating material.

Carefully sew around the edge of the panel with a 5mm seam allowance. Press the fabric and pin face up onto a square of quilt wadding. Zig zag stitch around all of the edges to hold it securely together.

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Create a square of plain fabric the same size as the panel, plus another 5cm deep strip of the same width. Stitch the pieces to either edge of the zip and concertina the smaller piece over the zip to cover. Topstitch in place. Place the two pieces right sides together and sew around three sides, opening the zip slightly before stitching the fourth side so that it can be turned right side out.

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3

Measure along the sides of the cushion cover and mark equal distances of approximately 3cm with pins, making sure that there is a pin at each corner. Use a darning needle to sew the long ends of the completed tassels inside the cover at every pin, mark along the side seams. Tie the yarn ends together in a secure reef knot inside the cushion cover and trim the ends.

Insert the cushion pad and close the zip.

sew home

Sew Tip! If you don’t have coloured yarn to hand, you can also use embroidery thread but you will need to wrap it around a few more times

sew SHOPPER

CLEMENTINE

SPLENDOUR PAISLEYS

TWICE AS NICE FLOWERS PINK

All available at fabricinspirations.co.uk 63

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TWICE AS NICE FLOWERS AQUA

sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Get started • Fabric: outer print, 45cm x 50cm; lining, 45cm x 50cm • Medium weight fusible interfacing, 45cm x 50cm • Pom-pom trim, 1m •Plastic canvas mesh or card, 9cm x 20cm • Fabric glue

IN JUST THIRTY MINUTES, YOU CAN MAKE A

pom-pom pot Being a craft enthusiast usually means that you accumulate a lot of stuf! From pretty pens and pencils to beautiful buttons or wonderful washi tape, you never know when a little trinket might come in handy for your next project. These colourful pots are a great storage solution, an ideal chance to use some of your crafty stash, and the perfect make to brighten up your desk.

Stitch a storage pot

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Download and print the template at sewmag. co.uk, then cut out the fabrics and interfacing. Adhere interfacing to the wrong side of the outer fabric. Pin together the outer pieces, matching the sides marked A. Sew a seam with a 1cm allowance.

Pin together the sides marked B and C then sew. With the right side of fabric still facing in, press the seams flat and pull the corners of the cutaway square sections out. Pin to create a box shape and sew a 1cm seam across, then turn out the right way.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the lining fabric.

Cut plastic mesh or card slightly smaller than the base of the pot and position into the base of the outer fabric. Secure with stitches or fabric glue. Place the sewn outer fabric into the lining and pin around the top edge. Sew around the top edge leaving a 10cm gap.

Pull the pot inside out via the gap and push the lining into the outer.

Press the top seam and remove any creases from the sides. Slip-stitch the gap in the seam shut. Topstitch around the top edge of the pot and hand-sew or use fabric glue to adhere a row of pom-poms to the edge. Fold the top of the pot down.

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sew gifts

Project exclusive to

sew!

tip!

Use contrasting prints and colours, or double up the pom-pom trim for a diferent look.

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sew sewhome gifts

FOUR WAYS WITH THE

Tilda Birdpond Collection Say ‘hello’ to spring with the beautiful Tilda Birdpond fabric range! Sew designer Corinne Bradd has created four exclusive projects just for you, including a bright playmat, upcycled denim pillow, patchwork pinny and our adorable March mascot, Arnie the Aardvark. We’ve used the Warm Colours prints from this collection, containing vibrant pinks and burnt oranges, but you could also make the designs your own by buying the Cool Colours range which includes a selection of fresh greens and soft blues.

Get started • Fabric: Tilda Birdpond collection; plain cotton • Wadding • Old wide-leg jeans • Pillow pad • Zip, 45cm • Cotton DK yarn • Large trigger clasp itting • Coloured felt • Small black beads • Fibre illing

Projects exclusive to

sew!

To purchase the Tilda Birdpond range, email groves@stockistenquires.co.uk 67

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Whip up this colourful creation for little ones

Create an upcycled pillow

Sew a play mat

1

Cut eight rectangles from diferent patterns, 6cm x 11cm.

Pair up the materials to make four sets of two prints and sew right sides together on one long edge to create 11cm square blocks.

Take two blocks of the same prints and pair up with two diferent ones. Stitch the blocks into a larger square so that two run vertically and two run horizontally to make a pinwheel pattern. Make the remaining pieces up in the same way to create four blocks in two diferent designs.

Cut four 21cm squares from two pieces of coordinating plain cotton. Arrange the plain and printed squares into an alternating pattern and sew together to make a square panel.

Press and layer onto wadding and

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1

Cut 45cm of the bottom of both legs on a pair of jeans.

Cut the plainer seam to open out the fabric and trim into rectangles, 40cm x 45cm, using the hem of the leg as a guide.

Choose six printed fabrics and cut two sets of each, 4cm x 42cm and 8.5cm x 42cm. Lay out the pieces into two panels, alternating the colours and widths. Sew the strips right sides together and press.

Topstitch the hems of both jean panels to each end of one striped panel using yellow thread to make the pillow front. Sew the other panel to the raw edge of one jean piece, right sides together, open out, then topstitch the seam in yellow.

Sew the zip to each end of the fabric panel and topstitch. Lay the fabric

plain backing fabric, leaving at least 5cm excess backing all the way round.

Pin the layers together at regular intervals before topstitching with a long straight stitch and a walking foot if necessary. Sew around the edge of the quilt with a 2mm seam allowance before trimming the excess wadding and backing.

Cut several 4cm wide strips of coloured cotton and stitch end to end to make one continuous piece. Sew the strip to the back of the quilt edge, mitre the corners and join the ends neatly. Fold the binding to the front of the quilt to cover the edges, then fold under 5mm on the raw edge and topstitch in place.

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tube on a lat surface, right sides together, so that the two denim seams line up to leave the patchwork panel in the centre.

Pin along the raw edges.

When the zip is almost closed, sew along the pinned edge of the pillowcase closest to the zip pull, taking care to keep the teeth of the zip together. Open the zip a little more before stitching the other edge of the case so it can be turned right side out.

Use two colours of cotton DK yarn and wrap it several times around your hand to make a hank. Tie a length of yarn through the hank before binding the neck and cutting the loops to make a large tassel.

Make four tassels in this way and use a darning needle to sew them to the corners of the pillowcase before stuing.

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“‘2019 is the year of repurposing! And what beter way to get started by upcycling a pair of old jeans into a colourful cushion” Corinne Bradd, sew designer

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sew home ing us name our mascot!

Thanks to Maggie Thomson Jones for help ira threads! Help us with We hope you enjoy your prize – a set of Made ook.com/sewhq faceb at toy suggestions for next month’s

Make a patchwork pinny

1

Cut two pieces of plain cotton, 28cm x 42cm, and sew right sides together on three edges, leaving one long edge open. Clip the corners, turn right sides out and press to make the base of the pinny.

Cut patterned and plain fabric, 18cm x 42cm. Stitch right sides together around the edges, leaving a small gap for turning. Clip the corners, turn out and press before topstitching along the top long edge only.

Cut two rectangles, 9cm x 14cm, from patterned and plain fabric. Sew together and topstitch the short top edge only. Pin to each end of the larger panel and topstitch around the remaining three sides to make the pockets.

Cut three pieces of patterned fabric, 12cm x 14cm, and sew into a strip on the shorter edges. Cut plain fabric, 12cm x 40cm, and sew right sides together, topstitching the top long edge only.

Pin the smaller panel to the middle of the pinny base, 12cm up from the bottom

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Stitch Arnie the Aardvark

edge. Topstitch along the three edges and the seam lines to make three pockets. Lay the larger panel over this, lining the bottom edge of the pocket up with the bottom edge of the base. Topstitch around the three sewn edges of the base, sewing the pocket as you do so.

Cut plain fabric, 4cm x 30cm, then fold in half lengthways, right sides together and sew down the long edge. Turn out, press and topstitch the seam. Cut a 10cm length, fold in half and thread a trigger clasp itting onto this before tacking the ends of the strip to the raw top edge of the pinny. Make a large loop from the remaining strip and tack to the other side of the pinny to make a scissors holder.

Cut plain fabric, 6cm x 150cm. Fold in 5mm along both long edges and press.

Tuck in the short ends and fold the strip in half lengthways, matching up the folded edges, then press again. Slip the raw top edge of the pinny inside the centre of the folded strip. Pin and topstitch the entire length of the folded strip to make the waistband and ties.

1

Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk, then cut them out adding a 5mm seam allowance to each, except on the felt pieces. Fold the gusset along the slanted crease lines and stitch the curved darts into the top of each leg and the darts at the end of the centre fold line.

Sew one side of the head gusset to one head piece before joining it and the tail to the main body. Sew the gusset to the main body, leaving the bottom of each leg open.

Turn over 5mm around the bottom of each leg and tack to make a tube.

Pin and stitch the remaining seams together, starting at E and working to the bottom of the snout. Stop, start again at the top of the snout, then work all the way round to D. Fold over and tack 5mm around the snout hole. Clip the curves and corners before turning out through one of the leg holes.

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sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

4

Firmly stuf the leg holes.

Oversew the small circle of coordinating felt to the end of the snout. Do the same with the larger circles on each leg and remove the tacking stitches.

Layer the ear pieces, right sides together, onto wadding and sew around the curved edges. Clip and turn out through the lat base of each ear. Fold in 5mm around the base, pleat and pin.

Oversew to either side of the head, close to the gusset seam.

Stitch small black beads to each side of the head, pulling the thread taut between the two beads so that they sink into the head slightly.

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Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beauiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.

10% o with Code SEWMAGMAR

FREE POSTAGE on all orders during the Great British Sewing Bee! New Spring fabrics just in including some lovely bamboo jersey and cable knit jersey For exclusive Sewing Bee offers visit www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk and join our fabric friends group

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Tel: 01892 731 087

FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM Snapping selfies at our Dressmaker of the Year competition!

@sewhq

See our latest patterns, the stitchy things we love and go behind the scenes at Sew HQ!

Fabulous takeovers with crafting stars!

We share the patterns we’ve been loving each month

The very latest Sewing Bee News!

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Photography by BBC/ Love Productions/ Mark Bourdillon

Discover amazing projects!

Visit clothkits.co.uk APR

2 TUE Intro to a Sewing Machine If you’re new to stitching and are a little unsure on how to use your sewing machine, then this workshop is a great place to boost your knowledge and brush up your skills! The course will teach you how to set up a machine and sew basic seams and hems, plus you’ll get the chance to make an envelope cushion and a lined tote bag by the end of the day.

Price: £65

APR

1 MON

Smock on! Workshop for Beginners Head over to Clothkits for a fun morning of hand-smocking! This is an embroidery method which uses small stitches to gather the fabric and is often used on children’s dresses and women’s clothing. It’s not a problem if you haven’t practised this technique before, newbie stitchers are more than welcome!

Price: £34.50

APR

4 THU

&learn

Stitch

Clothkits, Chichester

Check out this month’s skill-boosting workshops

All About the Sew, Solihull Visit allaboutthesew.com MAR

8

Learn to Sew with Oilcloth

This class will teach you all of the tips and tricks needed when it comes to sewing with oilcloth. This includes everything from how to cut the fabric out accurately and using the correct foot on the sewing machine, to inserting zips and stitching gusset corners. By the end of the day, you’ll have two pouches to take home with you which are ideal for storing away cosmetics or coins.

Price: £30

FRI

MAR

Shirred Liberty Print Girl’s Dress

22 FRI

Have you tried your hand at shirring before? If you haven’t, then not to worry, this workshop will teach you everything you need to know. In the class you’ll discover how to gather rows of fabric with an elastic thread to create a cute little girl’s dress from Liberty print material – your little one’s wardrobe will be ready for spring in no time!

Price: £49.50

Free Motion Machine Embroidery

Want to try your hand at freestyle embroidery? Go along to this workshop to discover all you need to know! You’ll learn how to put the fabric in an embroidery hoop and use a free motion machine foot, as well as learn basic stitches and finishing techniques so that your project is ready to hang up and take pride of place in your home.

Price: £33 72

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sew PROMOTION

Guthrie & Ghani, Birmingham

APR

6

Visit guthrie-ghani.co.uk MAR

Sewing with Stretch – Make a Comfy T-shirt

Master cutting, sewing and stablising knit and jersey fabrics in this one-day session. By the end of the workshop, you’ll have learnt how to stitch a number of necklines and a variety of diferent sleeve lengths in order to create either a slim-it tee or rouched-front top.

Price: £79

SAT

Sew the Season – Spring

Join in with this one-day workshop led by Sewing Bee star Lauren Guthrie. During SAT the class, you’ll have the opportunity to kit out your wardrobe for spring by making either Tilly and the Buttons’ slash-pocket Marigold trousers, or the True Bias Emerson cropped bottoms or shorts. The lesson will teach you how to sew pleats, darts, elasticated waistbands and so much more!

Price: £79

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APR

11

Beginner Dressmaker – Skirt Making

Wanting to build up your dressmaking skills and create a handmade garment for your spring closet? Try out this handy workshop! The session will teach you all of the basics, including how to it a pattern to your measurements, hand-sewing and inserting zips. You’ll then be able to apply these techniques to make a straight or A-line skirt.

Price: £135

THU

Ray Stitch, London

MAR

Visit raystitch.co.uk APR

5

15

Modern Shirt Dress or Blouse

The new season is upon us, so what better time to stitch some new pieces for your wardrobe? This workshop will enable you to create either a shirt dress or blouse using a Closet Case pattern, and will give you the opportunity to personalise your make with various additions such as a breast pocket or box pleat. The course will teach you how to construct and attach a collar, make a patch pocket and create onestep buttonholes, too.

Price: £120

Introduction to Machine Sewing – Piped Cushion

FRI

If you’re a beginner stitcher, then this class is perfect for you! In the lesson, you’ll ind out how to thread a machine, wind a bobbin, sew straight lines and around corners, cut from a pattern template, inish seams with zig zag stitch, insert an invisible zip and make your own piping – phew!

You’ll then put all of this newfound knowledge to good use by creating a set of piped and zipped cushion covers.

Price: £75

FRI

APR

Introduction to Dressmaking

3

This workshop is a great starting WED block for any ledgling sewers who are wanting to progress onto more advanced stitching and make their own clothes. The course will take place over six evening sessions and will teach you all the essential techniques you need, from accurately taking measurements and preparing fabric for sewing, to inserting fastenings and altering seams.

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BE OUR NEXT...

Stop the sewing machines, ladies and gents, because we’re giving you a front row seat to the DOTY competition so far! We believe that every stitcher has the ability to create a fantastic garment no matter what their skill level, and Dressmaker of the Year is the perfect opportunity to show off the clothes you’ve worked so hard to make. In the spirit of encouraging you to take part, we’ve rounded-up some fabulous entries, both past and present – so what are you waiting for? Give your creative juices a boost and enter your make!

WANDA ROGERS, CHILDREN’S WEAR 2018 I bought some lightweight cotton curtains to make this dress. It has a full pleated skirt and an invisible zip, plus the bodice is lined with cotton and the underskirt has a soft, cotton mesh. This was my first encounter with piping trim, so the front collar curve took some practise before I got it right!

MELANIE BUGDEN, EVERYDAY 2019 This pattern is from the September 2015 issue of Sew and it was the first jacket I ever made! Being a self-taught stitcher, I was nervous about how the garment would be received, but I’ve worn it to work a few times and everyone comments on its originality!

STEPHANIE KAVANAGH, OCCASION 2019 Both the skirt and shirt are entirely self-drafted, which is one of the reasons I’m so proud to wear them! For the skirt, I was inspired by the fabric: it’s a mediumweight canvas and is destined to be shown-off, so I chose box pleats on a mid-length skirt to create volume. It was my first time making a shirt – I’d never added a collar, drafted a pattern, or sewn with chiffon before this!

DEBORAH CHUBB, OCCASION 2019

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WIN ME

REBECCA SHARPE, SIMPLICITY 2018 This was the first dress I felt proud to wear – it’s made from the Simplicity Cynthia Rowley pattern.

I loved every minute of making the garment and I certainly learnt a few things along the way, such as how to use the correct interfacing – whoops!

SPONSORED BY

2 Free

HOW TO ENTER

Simply take a clear photo of your garment and enter it at sewmag.co.uk/dressmakeroftheyear.

Contestants can enter every one of the categories (Occasion, Upcycling, Everyday, Vintage and Children’s wear) with multiple garments, so long as each one is different. All Everyone who enters Dressmaker of the Year will receive two FREE Simplicity entries must be received by 11th patterns just for taking part! Plus, there’s plenty of prizes to be won including a March – good luck!

Brother sewing machine – just head over to our website to find out more.

PATTERNS

SUZANNE CHOI, OCCASION 2018

KELLY PREECE, OCCASION 2019 Although I’m usually a print kind of girl, this stunning bottle green crepe was too good to resist! I used the fabric to create a lovely evening gown and I just had to wear it out to dinner the night I finished it. The garment falls beautifully, and the weight gives the skirt great twirling ability!

JANE GALLOWAY, VINTAGE 2019 This fantastic pattern was inspired by 1920s beach pyjamas. I created this flattering and comfortable jumpsuit for myself, then I stitched one for my mum as she absolutely loved mine.

This was my first experience with bias binding and, just my luck, I ran out halfway through and had to make my own – terrifying!

HELEN TURNER, EVERYDAY 2019

ASHLEY BINGHAM, UPCYCLING 2019 I pulled apart two wornout pairs of jeans and created these fun overalls! The bib and straps are lined with leftover fabric, meaning that hardware was the only new item I used.

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FRAN CORNER, OCCASION 2019

CHARMAINE WEST, CHILDREN’S WEAR 2019

I created this sweet red dress with matching flowers for my daughter’s prom – she doesn’t usually wear dresses so it was very exciting to design and make the garment for her big day!

On-line stockists of Liberty fabrics - Including Liberty Tana Lawn, Needlecord, Jersey and Lantana. Silk and Fleece

‘Indie’ dressmaking and crafting patterns - Hot Patterns, Colette, Serendipity Studio, Sewaholic, Gather, By Hand, Papercut Christine Haynes, Cashmerette, Rosie & Me, How To Do Fashion.dk and Nina Lee.

www.sewbox.co.uk

VISIT US ON STAND B7 at KNITTING7 & STITCHIN OLYMPIA, G LONDON 28th FEB – 3rd MAR. 2019

25% discount for Sew readers

www.online-fabrics.co.uk

The greatest selection of true vintage sewing patterns, from 1920s flapper dresses, to 1970s jumpsuits.

388-394 Foleshill Road, Coventry, West Midlands CV6 5AN World Wide Shipping - Credit Cards Welcome

Tel: 02476 687776 | Email: info@online-fabrics.co.uk

www.sovintagepatterns.com

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CREATE AND CRAFT SPECIAL

ONLY

£10!

Create and Craft RIBBON OFFER

Don’t miss out on Create and Craft’s fabulous ofer on the Little Red Boots ribbon range, designed by illustrator Kathryn Coyle! This collection includes double-facing, block colour and satin bows, which are printed with patterns of cute animals and colourful polka dots. They’re perfect for adding the inal lourish to any gift, plus you can bag yourself the entire collection for a steal at just £10 (RRP £21.99)! To claim your bargain, simply visit createandcraft.com/ sewmag or call 0330 041 5683 and quote the discount code 463999.

60 bows inside!

FREE P&P!

5 Fabulous Reasons to Treat Yourself l Ideal for embellishing gifts l 60 pre-made satin bows l Can be used on papercrafts, too l 9 double-facing and block

colour ribbons l Designs which are perfect for

animal lovers

To claim your discounted ribbons, visit createandcraft.com/sewmag, or call 0330 041 5683 and quote the code 463999.

The ofer is valid on orders placed with Create and Craft between 00:01 BST on 7th February 2019 and 23:59 BST on 7th March 2019. This ofer will expire on 7th March 2019 at 23:59. The ofer is available to all Create and Craft customers. The ofer can be purchased via the Create and Craft website createandcraft.com, on the mobile app, the IVR and by phone. Ideal Shopping Direct Limited reserves the right from time to time and at any time to cancel, discontinue, temporarily or permanently, or amend the promotion or these rules, with or without prior notice (including, without limitation, in the case of anticipated, suspected or actual fraud).

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CREATE TWO EASY MAKES FROM

Little Red Boots Ribbons Get started • Little Red Boots ribbons • Coloured felt • Embroidery thread • Fibre illing • Fabric glue

Create a pincushion

1

Cut 18 lengths of ribbon, 12cm long, then lay out nine horizontally. Weave the remaining nine through these vertically. Adjust the weave so it is square and use a dab of fabric glue to hold the ends in place temporarily.

Cut two 9cm squares in coloured felt. Place both underneath the weave and pin in place. Use a small running stitch to sew the edges of the weave to the squares, leaving a little gap in one edge.

Stuf irmly with ibre illing.

Close up the gap and trim the ends of the ribbons at a 45-degree angle. Take a premade ribbon bow and stitch it to one corner of the pincushion.

2 3

Sew a tag toy

1

Cut two 10cm circles in coloured felt, and two 3.5cm ones from a darker shade.

Trim two ears from the same dark colour and a nose from black felt.

Oversew the round cheeks across the centre of one large circle. Place the nose in between them and embroider eyes and a mouth with two strands of black thread.

Cut several 8cm lengths of printed satin ribbon. Fold each one in half and tack

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the raw edges to the edge of the undecorated circle of felt so the loops radiate out from the centre.

Pin the face over the top to cover the raw ends.

Pin the ears in place and join the pieces with a small running stitch, leaving a 4cm gap in the seam. Lightly stuf the face with ibre illing, then close up the gap by continuing to sew running stitch. Remove the tacking stitches.

3

directory • FABRICS • SEWING MACHINES • HABERDASHERY • PATTERNS

www.fabricland.co.uk Everything from Craft Cottons, through Polar Fleece to Lycra

tel: 01425 461444

To see our full range & find a stockist, please visit our website: www.adjustoform.com

Jin in e un!

o nline o ind yur local tre n ur map!

Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics.

Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions.

And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST

419 Barlow Moor Rd Chorlton Manchester M21 8ER MANCHESTER Tel: 0161 881 7960

If you would like to advertise on these pages, please call Anna on 01206 505932 or Hannah on 01206 505495

BIRMINGHAM

1 Moseley St Digbeth Birmingham B5 6JX Tel: 0121 622 6102

1000s of Rolls at Realistic Prices!

Stockists of all kinds of • Fashion Fabrics • Woolens • Worsteds • Polywools • Polyesters • Cotton • Dance Wear • Linings • Bridal Wear • Satins • Suiting • Lycra and much, much more!

Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk

www.leonsfabrics.co.uk

Nationwide Exhibitions 0117 907 1000

www.sewmag.co.uk

Download your digital patterns in

4 EASY STEPS! Put your sewing skills on fast forward with these 30-minute makes

FIRST, LOG IN OR SIGN UP

1

...to the Sew website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE. Find the tab circled at the top.

NEXT, SEARCH FOR A MAKE

2

...by title, according to the project names opposite. Click on the search tab.

CLICK THE DOWNLOAD TEMPLATE BUTTON

3

TORTOISE PATTERN WEIGHTS

NAUTICAL DOORSTOP

Whip up these shelled mascots in record time, and they’ll speed up your dressmaking!

Use this lunchtime make to prop open your doors and let in a spring breeze.

...which you will ind under the main image.

SAVE THE PATTERN PDF

4

...by right clicking to save on your computer, then print out (DON’ T it to the page!)

100 Aug Issue 121 March 2019

JUST PRINT OUT THE PAGE OR PAGES YOU NEED FROM YOUR PRINT MENU In your print menu, under Size options, be sure to select to print ‘Actual Size’, instead of ‘Fit to Page’

You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our previous issues at sewmag.co.uk/templates ‘TILING’ DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready to join the sheets!

OWL PINCUSHION

LIBERTY PUMPS

Little Aly Owl is perfect for newbie stitchers and she’ll keep your pins to hand, too.

Whether you choose a bow or heart, brighten up your tootsies with this beginner project.

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Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today!

worth

£285! worth

PERFECT PETS

20% off on p6

You haven’t seen pet embroidery like this before! Glorafilia is renowned for the impressive quality and beauty of its designs, and we are giving you the chance to win one of three pet needlework kits: a perfect pug, mischievous kitten or tartan Westie. Each one contains a full-coloured canvas, yarn, needles and detailed instructions, so you can begin stitching straight away!

Available at glorafilia.com

£190!

We have three embroidery kits to give away. To enter, tick GLORAFILIA

sew March

AMPLIFY YOUR PATCHWORK Win Crafter’s Companion’s brand-new patchwork dies!

You can get your hands on all of the unique multimedia designs: Apple Core, Tumbler, Dresden and Orange Peel – each one will enable you to create a professional finish on your quilting and patchwork projects.

If you’re thinking that this sounds great but you don’t own a die-cutting machine, then worry not, as we’re also giving away a Gemini Junior! Available at crafterscompanion.co.uk We have all four dies and one machine to give away.

To enter, tick GEMINI

giveaways Enter for the chance to win £1,100+ of amazing goodies!

LOVE IS IN THE AIR

4 to

win!

What better way to show your other half how much they mean to you than with a fine dining experience for two? Indulge in succulent steaks, delicious appetisers and decadent desserts in your choice of venue – will you opt for a restaurant in a bustling city centre or a stunning country manor? Either way, with over 250 venues to choose from, you’re bound to find the perfect one for you!

try A NEW CRAFT Sew has another brilliant book for you to win! This time it’s Margaret Dier’s Thread Painting and Silk Shading Embroidery, which explains everything you need to know about thread painting techniques and is guaranteed to provide inspiration for your next project. For the complete beginner and the experienced stitcher alike, this guide will be treasured for years to come. Available at crowood.com

Available at buyagift.co.uk We have two dining experiences to give away.

To enter, tick DINE

We have four books to give away. To enter, tick CROWOOD 82

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worth

£180!

Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today!

6 to

READAHOLIC

win!

You’re in for a treat with this book bundle! The irst read is Mini Hoop Embroideries

by Sonia Lyne, which teaches you how to create stunning pieces to adorn your clothes, accessories and home décor.

The second is Debbie Von Grabler-Crozier’s Bag Boutique, a project book that contains detailed instructions to help you sew 20 beautiful totes, purses, clutches and more! Available at searchpress.com We have six book bundles to give away. To enter, tick SEARCH

Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/ giveaways to win big!

1 bundle

to win!

UPDATE YOUR WARDROBE

One of our favourite stitchy stores, Higgs & Higgs is ofering a lucky reader this fantastic fabric bundle! Sink your needles into the new Spring Blues SS19 collection: you’ll receive three metres of denim, white cotton lawn, chambray stripes, loral cotton and leaf print material, which will be perfect for whipping up some brand new garments!

Available at higgsandhiggs.com We have one bundle to give away. To enter, tick HIGGS

worth

£160!

TOOL-TALLY BRILLIANT You don’t have to be tech-savvy to make the most of this giveaway!

The pattern drafting tool from Soft Byte is an excellent way to decide how to use your fabric efectively; simply photograph the material, position a selection box on the image to mark the pattern repeat, then drag and drop your chosen pieces. Available at softbyte.co.uk We have one pattern drafting tool to give away.

To enter, tick SOFTBYTE

To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 21.03.2019* Mark your envelope: Sew March Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Sufolk, IP2 8WG.

!

Just tick the boxes!

GEMINI

DINE

HIGGS

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other..............................................................................

GLORAFILIA

SEARCH

SOFTBYTE

Name......................................................................................................................

CROWOOD

Address..................................................................................................................

What made you buy this month’s Sew? FREE Simplicity pattern

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the BOOKS we’re loving...

These fabulous titles are all here to teach you something new this month!

Mini Hoop Embroideries

by Sonia Lyne Create embroidery pictures you’ll love to wear! Sonia’s love for miniature hoops was born out of a desire to sport her own handiwork, so step inside her world as she teaches you how to sew your very own colourful versions.

With an in-depth introduction on different stitch variations, as well as game-changing methods, you’re bound to have fun with this book.

Search Press, £9.99, searchpress.com

Quiet

by Fearne Cotton We all have moments of self-doubt, whether it’s struggling with a tricky technique or balancing a few dressmaking projects – luckily, Fearne’s brand-new book is here to silence that brain chatter.

The TV presenter speaks openly about her own experience with negative thoughts, and offers practical solutions, expert advice and activities to help boost your wellbeing.

Orion Books, £20, orionbooks.co.uk

You and Your Sewing Machine

by Bernie Tobisch Introducing the latest how-to book for beginner sewists!

Author Bernie, a sewing machine guru with over 42 years’ experience, brings us a visual guide on how to use a machine, keep it in good working order and solve common problems. These troubleshooting tips will allow you to sew and quilt effortlessly, plus the advice can be applied to all brands!

C&T Publishing, £19.60, ctpub.com 85

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Thread Painting and Silk Shading Embroidery

The Bag Boutique

by Margaret Dier

Delve into this wonderfully colourful read by renowned designer Debbie von GrablerCrozier! The project book includes 20 bags in a huge variety of styles and sizes, from totes and backpacks to clutches and over-theshoulders. Debbie’s clear step-by-step instructions make creating each one a breeze for sewers of all abilities, too.

Search Press, £14.99, searchpress.com

Explore the colourful world of embroidery painting and learn to stitch a masterpiece!

This book will be a treasured guide for novice stitchers and experienced sewers alike, as it demystifies basic techniques, introduces the equipment needed and provides inspiration to create your own designs.

Crowood Press, £19.95, crowood.com

by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier

who does what...

Editor, Lucy Jobber lucy.jobber@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Sophie Demetriades sophie.demetriades@aceville.co.uk Editorial Assistant, Laura Wybrow laura.wybrow@aceville.co.uk Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Graphic Designers Gemma Eales, Cat Morton, Louise Warner & Fiona Palmer Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Courtney, Kate, BMA Models; Sylvia, Anna-Sophie, Nevs; Franciska, MOT Models Fashion stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Make up, Dottie Monaghan Accounts, Denise Bubb 01206 505958 Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk

your

SEWING GUIDE

Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!

THE PERFECT FIT The key to successful itting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope or Size It Up panel over the page, then you can make any necessary alterations.

Cut out the paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best it (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.

l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally diferent to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to it your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300 Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Senior Subscriptions Marketing Executive Laura Tebby sew@servicehelpline.co.uk

HIGH BUST Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys.

All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

FULL BUST

WAIST HIPS

Measure while in the underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.

HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments.

HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

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Use our FREE pattern to create this smart Adele skirt at sewmag.co.uk!

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SIZE it up Once you have your body measurements, choose the closest size from the chart below. Remember, there will be variations depending on which fabric and pattern you choose, so always make a toile irst.

For size 8: Bust - 78cm Waist - 59cm Hip - 85cm Back neck to waist - 39cm

For size 10: Bust - 83cm Waist - 64cm Hip - 88cm Back neck to waist - 40cm

For size 12: Bust - 88cm Waist - 69cm Hip - 93cm Back neck to waist - 41cm

For size 14: Bust - 93cm Waist - 74cm Hip - 98cm Back neck to waist - 42cm

READING A PATTERN The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes.

Highlighting yours can help with cutting.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

“Ponte Roma and jersey fabrics are good at retaining their shape and don’t crease. They’re also great for making reversible garments and for newbie stitchers who want to experiment with knitted materials. When sewing, let the machine feed the fabric through naturally, don’t pull or stretch it. You should also remember to use a ball point needle – this will glide in between the loops of the material and prevent any snagging.”

MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY

For size 16: Bust - 98cm Waist - 79cm Hip - 103cm Back neck to waist - 43cm

For size 18: Bust - 103cm Waist - 84cm Hip - 108cm Back neck to waist - 44cm

For size 20:

“Make the Adele skirt in this Sweet Nelly jersey fabric.

The soft-to-thetouch material has a red and pink floral design which will add a bright pop of colour to any outfit.”

With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces. Most patterns ofer a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric.

This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage.

Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be put on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece until both measurements are the same.

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.

S BIA

Bust - 108cm Waist - 89cm Hip - 113cm Back neck to waist - 45cm

UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

PLACING YOUR PIECES

WARP

John Louden – Sweet Nelly, £13 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

SELVEDGES

WEFT FOLD

CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL 87

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Photography by BBC/ Lov e Productions/ Mark Bou rdillon

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Get yourself set up with this professional sewing kit, complete with everything you need to get those straight stitches and cut your fabrics down to size!

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The new Janome M Series delivers with more power, stitches and accessories. These high-quality machines will help produce your best work. Sew with the power, precision and confidence of a Janome QDC M Series model.

COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS One winner will receive a NEW M Series QDC Janome Sewing Machine. The prize has a 12-month redemption period from the day that the winner is notified. Extension of validity is not permitted. The prize is non-transferable and is to be used by the registered prize winner. The winner must be aged 18 years or over. There are no cash alternatives to the prize in whole or in part.

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2 EASY

Take inspiration from Queen Victoria and dress your little one in this outfit! Shorts and top, £16; cardigan, £10, marksandspencer.com

These wide-leg sailor pants get a ‘yes’ from us! £45, oasis-stores.com

Grab Amber Butchart’s book Nautical Chic for a detailed look at this fabulous trend. £24.95, thamesandhudson.com

The traditional Breton stripe gets a pop of colour with this red and blue Cath Kidston number. £40, cathkidston.com Stripes, check. Summery hues, tick. Welcome aboard! regatta.com

STYLE STORY

THE NAUTICAL TREND CRUISe INTO THE HISTORY OF THIS ICONIC LOOK Words by LAURA WYBROW

As soon as the first speck of sunshine breaks through the clouds, we’re dreaming of sandy shores and breaking out the nautical look as a ‘hello’ to warm weather. Its signature includes Breton stripes, neck scarves, brass buttons and sailor pants, but where did the trend begin? We’ve enlisted the help of fashion historian Amber Butchart to ind out!

In her book Nautical Chic, Amber points out that there are diferent inluencers of the trend, such as pirates, oicers and ishermen, but it was the humble sailor that had the biggest impact – and Queen Victoria can certainly vouch for that! In 1846, Victoria had a child’s sailor uniform specially stitched for her son The Prince of Wales, and the event was so notable, she recorded the irst time he wore it in her diary. “Following the introduction of the irst oicial sailor uniforms in the 19th century, the square collar and bellbottom pants have become nautical icons the world over,” says Amber. Coco Chanel also payed homage to the uniform with her 1917 nautical collection, and the pea coat – a jacket originally created to retain seamen’s body heat – was adapted by Yves Saint Laurent in 1962.

SEA ODDITY More recently, music legends such as David Bowie have taken a leaf out of Chanel and

Saint Laurent’s book and used the nautical style to create new fashion trends. For example, the glam rock movement of the 1970s sought outits adorned with naval oicer trims, such as brass buttons, shoulder pads and neck scarves. “These accessories came about after a plain uniform was issued in a bid to distance the American Navy from the Royal one.

However, the oicers were not impressed and demanded something more ornate. A dark blue coat with gold buttons and lace was adopted,” explains Amber.

HEY, SAILOR! Are you feeling inspired to test the waters? Then set sail with Abakhan Fabrics’ wonderful selection of buttons, trims and more!

Nautical print poplin, £7.25 per metre

GET THE LOOK For everyday wear, garments such as the Breton tee are still sported daily, and Amber notes that: “Stripes have a long association with the sea. From 17th century Dutch whalers to early 18th century mariners, artefacts showing the stripy side of seafaring life can be found in museums across Europe.”

Want to create your own? All you need is a metre of stripy jersey! This material is formed of a single-knitted layer and is perfect for clothes you want to feel comfortable in all day long; we recommend opting for a basic design such as the Simplicity 1062 pattern. Or you could bring a nautical spin to Sew Over It’s Ultimate Culottes – how chic would these look in a crisp blue and white striped chambray?

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Gold cut end fringe, £1.20 per metre

Gold buttons, £1 per bag

ALL PRODUCTS ARE FROM ABAKHAN.CO.UK