St Andrews in Focus Issue 72 Sep Oct 2015 by Mike Collins

St Andrews in focus • shopping • eating • events • town/gown • people and more

September/October 2015 Issue 72, £2.00

the award winning magazine for St Andrews www.standrewsinfocus.com

St Andrews in focus • shopping • eating • events • town/gown • people and more

From the Editor

Listening on the radio to the BBC World Service recently I was switched on to the Science Hour. Among the several fascinating items covered (including details of the findings so far on the planet Pluto) there was one about trees, a subject also dear to my heart! In Melbourne, Australia, a map of the town’s trees was published with the intention of getting residents to report damage etc so that the authorities could either make replacements or repairs, see: www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-33560182 Trees are essential to cities; in hot countries they cool, in all countries they absorb pollution and exhale oxygen by day, acting as lungs for the physical and psychological health of residents. To the surprise of Melbourne’s city council, as well as reporting problems for attention, people began emailing love letters to the trees! These ‘treemails’ have apparently gone global. An idea for St Andrews, for Scotland? Our trees are in dire need of loving attention; some have not been replaced (South Street), many need correct pruning (Abbey Street, the Scores etc). Make your feelings known, our trees really are precious. Flora Selwyn

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The views expressed elsewhere in this magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor. © St Andrews in Focus (2003)

Contents FEATURES • • • • • • • • • •

Community Council Hail Bill Sangster! Tribute to Ursula Hall Blackcurrants Why write letters? Moral dilemma Internet glossary 150 years young! Fish suppers recalled Reviews: – Argyll – Dundee – Catsup – Jaz Jordan

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Shedding light Fairtrade at the Open Scouting welcome British Hen Welfare Trust

PULL-OUT FEATURE

EDITOR Flora Selwyn Tel: 01334 472375 Email: editor@standrewsinfocus.com

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ORGANISATIONS

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2015

DESIGNER University of St Andrews Print & Design (printanddesign@st-andrews.ac.uk)

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Concert Diary

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TOWN & GOWN •

John-Harmen Valk meets Jean Vanier

EVENTS • • • •

The first computers St Andrews’ Literary Festival Photographic exhibitions Selected Events

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SHOPS & SERVICES • • • • • • •

Tea DIY Wills Student letting agency From the Osteopath Hugo d’Bere dines twice! Budget for the Burgh Roving Reporter

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OUT & ABOUT • •

‘The Railroad…’ Hidden Gems

NEXT ISSUE – Nov/Dec 2015 COPY DEADLINE: STRICTLY 28 SEPTEMBER

All contributions welcome. The Editor reserves the right to publish copy according to available space. Cover: Midsummer dusk from Kinkell Braes, original photo by Richard Cormack.

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FEATURES From Howard Greenwell, Chair

The Royal Burgh of St Andrews Community Council The rain came and the wind blew! It wouldn’t be a true test of the world’s best golfers if the elements we all know about in the town didn’t have a part to play in The Open’s proceedings. However, the town coped remarkably well with the visitors, the frustrations and delays. There was an added bonus, in that a large number of the golf enthusiasts took the time to visit the centre of St Andrews to experience what we have to offer. Even if the weather has not been very good this summer, I can speak for several visitors who expressed to me how warm and welcoming the people of St Andrews were to them. I am particularly thankful to those businesses that took the effort to make the town look at its best for everyone. I am sure the influx of visitors on the Saturday was much appreciated by all of them. In general, it was a pleasure to walk through the town throughout the event. Fife Council should also be thanked for their efforts in providing extra street

cleaning and refuse collections during the event. As I was walking through the centre before 6.00am on a couple of mornings, it was good to see the streets being cleaned and everything being prepared for another busy day. Perhaps the Community Council, at our September meeting, will support more early morning preparation of the town centre to avoid excessive commercial vehicles in the town during the day. We should also thank Fife Council for finally being able to operate the Whyte Melville fountain before The Open. It has been a long hard road to enable the fountain to be completely refurbished and restored to its original state. Specific praise should go to ex-Councillor Bill Sangster, who campaigned tirelessly for the work to be done. On the subject of Bill Sangster, how many of you have noticed the improvements made to the main entry sign on the A91? Again, thanks are due to Bill for his efforts to have the sign repainted before The Open and the words “Royal Burgh of…” added to it. Please turn to page 4 to see more on this.

Alas, and a point of this month’s article, is that there are still a number of businesses and residents (perhaps absentee landlords too) who continue to think it is acceptable to have refuse bins positioned permanently in the streets and the roadway, A-boards on every corner, tables and chairs blocking the pavements. The nascent St Andrews Civic Pride Campaign, that I have talked about before, has now conducted its first audit of the town centre to try to define the extent of the problems that we face in St Andrews. Over the coming months, the steering committee will look to co-ordinate the findings of the audit, understand how these problems can be tackled, and initiate improvement projects that will continue to make St Andrews a more welcoming place to visit. Those in the campaign at present, all recognise that it will be a long ongoing project for the town, but hope that everyone will be able to support, contribute, and appreciate the efforts going forward.

FEATURES From Bill Sangster,

The fountain works! This is a photo of Alistair Melville (Fife Council), Myself, Lindsey Adam (Merchants’ Chair), and Alan Barns (Gilmartins). The Merchants requested the fountain to be made a working fountain some 18 years ago, when I was their Treasurer. Now we have it modernised and fully automated, with financial help from Fife Council, St Andrews Pilgrim Foundation, The Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews, and the St Andrews Common Good Fund. It’s an achievement that has taken time, but one which hopefully can make it a tourist attraction, as well as a focal point within the centre of our city.

Weel kent Marysia Denyer added: Bill Sangster, now an octogenarian, continues to show his unwavering commitment to our town, its heritage, and civic pride. The recent refurbishment of our sign at the town entrance is a prime example of his dedication to St Andrews and its citizens. Over many months Bill has restored the sign to its former glory. Grateful thanks must go to SIGNFX who very kindly donated the necessary materials in support of this upgrade. Fittingly, it is now highlighted on either side by the ornate metal planters full of colourful flowers, which have been planted out by volunteers of St Andrews In Bloom. Bill is still an active member of the following local committees; Chairman of the North East Fife Community Safety Panel; Vice Chairman of the Cosmos Community Centre. As a founder member of the St Andrews-Loches Alliance Committee, he holds the post of Treasurer. Friends of Craigtoun Park have assigned him the role of Director of Public Relations. Finally, as a Trustee on the St Andrews Preservation Trust, he is a member of their Planning Committee. During these financially-constrained times, by working together, local residents, businesses, and Fife Council officers can make our community a better place to live in and for our visitors to appreciate. To people like Bill, the individuals and groups in the town who carry out their work voluntarily, we applaud you!

(Photo courtesy Marysia Denyer)

FEATURES Penelope Wallace pays tribute to her mother

Ursula Hall

Ursula Hall (29 May 1926 – 1 July 2015), author of St Andrew and St Andrews (PASTA); a period on the board of Elmwood College in Scotland and The Cross of St Andrew, also Labour Party activist, was Cupar; support for miners’ families during the miners’ strike in 1984; born Ursula Ewins in Bristol during the General Strike. Her father, a and the Citizens’ Advice Bureau (CAB). She was made a JP in1986, not solicitor who had fought in the First World War, and his wife Eunice to serve on the bench herself, but to consider nominations for others were politically active, early members of the Labour Party, supporters to do so. Special mention should be made of her role in the United of the League of Nations. Ursula was faithful Nations Association, and her involvement in to the tenets of democratic socialism and the celebration of the 50th anniversary of the internationalism all her life. She was educated Universal Declaration of Human Rights, and at Leamington High School for Girls, then founding of the St Andrews Peace Garden. read Classics at Somerville College, Oxford, She was a firm supporter of Scottish developing her lifelong love for ancient, devolution back to 1979, but not of especially Roman, history. In 1948/9 she independence. In 1991 Ursula was studied as a research student in Pavia, Italy, an commissioned by St Andrews University experience which she enjoyed very much. She Library to write a book about St Andrew and was appointed Assistant Lecturer in Classics his connection with Scotland. She was a at University College, Leicester (later Leicester little daunted, being neither a native Scot, University), and in 1957 became lecturer in nor a medievalist, or a Christian, but she Ancient History at St Andrews, where she lived completed the task with such enthusiasm for the next 54 years, and where she married and success that another book followed, The Moral Philosophy lecturer John Hall. Cross of St Andrew, in which she meticulously Although she ceased full-time and researched the question of what shape of permanent work for her department when her cross the saint suffered on, and how it came to first child was born in 1962, she never ceased be recorded, improbably, as X-shaped. her interest in, and contribution to, her field; Ursula’s mother Eunice, who had lived she was fortunate enough that her services with her for nine years, and her husband were repeatedly sought. In particular, during the John, had died within a few days of each other 1960s and ‘70s, she marked A-level papers, in January 1988. Eunice was 92. John was taught miscellaneous courses at the universities 57.During her latter years Ursula also travelled of St Andrews, Edinburgh, and Aberdeen. She adventurously, visiting New York, Toronto, compiled the consolidated index for the Journal Moscow, and St Petersburg before the fall of Roman Studies (a massive undertaking in the of the Berlin Wall, various parts of Italy and days before computer databases). Spain, Tunisia, Syria, and Jordan. While at Oxford (where she was a Ursula was a devoted mother, contemporary of Margaret Thatcher), she took grandmother, and friend, maintaining she never ceased her time from her studies to assist in the election relationships over many years by means campaign of 1945. In St Andrews, she was interest in, and contribution of visits and hospitality, especially through for many years the devoted and efficient lengthy and thoughtful letters. In 2011, at the to, her field constituency secretary of East Fife (later North age of 85, still mentally and physically fit, she East Fife) Labour Party, and even stood in relocated to Morningside in Edinburgh to be elections for local government. This is the more near her younger son. She was soon on the notable for three reasons – the low level of social committee of the warden-aided complex. support for Labour in the constituency made it always a losing battle; Although she had a few medical complaints, she had always been she never passed a driving test, but still managed to attend meetings very healthy, and it was a surprise to all when she became ill last April. throughout the constituency; her husband was an equally fervent, Her decline was rapid, ending with a peaceful death in the Western almost equally active Liberal. The posters in the house were Labour, General Hospital. She is survived by her children Penelope, Thomas, while the posters on the car were Liberal. Hers was the party of and Stephen, and by her six grandchildren. Clement Attlee, the NHS and British Rail; of equality of outcome not just A funeral celebration in Edinburgh commemorated her life equality of opportunity; she was never a Blairite. and beliefs, using a quotation from her kitchen noticeboard, If it is Other organisations in St Andrews and Fife, with which Ursula meaninglessness that awaits us, let us so live as to make it an unjust was active, were the St Andrews Community Action Group (STACS) fate. (Miguel de Unamuno) where she helped with the telephone help line 1972/8; Peace Action (Photo courtesy Sam Taylor)

FEATURES Naomi Mottram

Blackcurrants Will you come first or will the blackcurrants, my little one When they flourish in the fading summer? We have watched them from the start, from the very beginning, When it seemed the winter would never retreat. We felt the wind rustle the perfumed leaves, rejoicing every day As we passed them on the way to work and home again. That was when you were no bigger than a blackcurrant. We waited until we heard the robins begin to sing-in the spring. We watched while the flowers budded, bloomed and died, Leaving bare stalks with a vague promise of more to come. And now, little one, green orbs populate the branches – Abstractly foreshadowing the currents they will become, Teasing the impatient birds and me in their bitter youth. You, will still be waiting, inside, when I am eating blackcurrants On my way to work. When you arrive, little one, the birds will be lamenting the end of summer Nostalgic for the blackcurrant harvest.

(Photo courtesy Naomi Mottram)

Donald Macgregor asks

Why write letters to newspapers? Most, if not all, newspapers have a section for – including Fife – publish a daily digest of news correspondence from readers. Those who read items, though whether these influence policy is newspapers will no doubt have noticed the not so easy to establish. Sometimes offended regularity of certain correspondents on various citizens, having had their request refused topics. One gentleman, based in St Andrews, by officialdom, decide to take the ‘nuclear appears to have experiences in his life sufficient option’ of contacting the press, occasionally for twenty, and to have even more opinions. with success. This procedure is much more Another gentleman, who it seems is no longer satisfactory than a simple letter. with us, mentioned to his prospective parentsOf course, for many the Letters page in-law that he ‘wrote to the papers’. During is the most interesting in the entire paper his long married life he (which doesn’t say much published sufficient letters for the rest of it, much Of course, for many the to fill an autobiography. entirely predictable). In Letters page is the most The difficulty with particular the most local interesting in the entire paper writing to the Letters editor newspapers, such as is that few, if any, of those the East Fife Mail and criticized or attacked in the letters is ever St Andrews Citizen, publish occasionally likely to read them. Should a correspondent vituperative letters, which are sometimes attack the Prime Minister’s policies, it is most the main reason for buying the paper. In the unlikely that 10 Downing Street will tremble at old days, many letters were published under breakfast time. Of course some local authorities pseudonym or nom de plume, such as ‘Pro

Patria’ or ‘Concerned Citizen’. This is now discouraged. My advice, such as it is, is to write or email directly to the authority or person to whom you wish to complain. Writing a letter to the papers is perhaps amusing (at least to you), but almost certainly ineffective. It may, of course, be the case that the most frequent letter writers have, (a) nothing better to do with their time, or (b) seek to establish a record for the number of publications in which they have a letter published. There could even be an annual trophy! A final confession: there was a time when I occasionally wrote to the paper. I have now seen the error of my ways.

FEATURES John Cameron

A moral dilemma that has haunted me all my life: Nazis, and whose own death at age 106, was I worked for a number of years for Robert announced recently. Maxwell’s Pergamon Press in Oxford; when He had lived in obscurity until Elizabeth’s attending meetings I stayed in the family home exposure, after which he was knighted. at Headington Hill Hall. Maxwell’s wife Elizabeth Statues depicting him holding a child were was an extraordinary woman – a French placed in railway stations in London and Huguenot, who at the time I knew her in the late Prague. The Czech government nominated 1970s was completing a PhD at Oxford. I found him for the Nobel Peace her great company. I often wonder how I Prize, but like so many Most of her husband’s other prizes it went to a extended family of would have behaved controversial alternative; in Czechoslovakian Jews perished if faced with such this case the newly-elected in concentration camps. As a awesome decisions Barack Obama. result she had gradually become as a young man Winton was always an expert on the Holocaust. dismissive about the part he When I told her the Scottish played, saying he was only a very small cog churches had supported a boarding school in in a giant wheel, but of course the fact is, “evil East Lothian for Czech Jews evacuated just triumphs when good men do nothing.” The before the war she replied, “That would be former Chief Rabbi, Jonathan Sacks, quoted Winton’s children.” She said he was a London the Sanhedrin, “he who saves a life saves a stockbroker who had managed to run some universe”, and rightly referred to him as “a trains with Jewish children out Prague in giant of moral courage and determination”. 1939, but at that time she did not know a great Occurring at the same time as Winton’s deal about him. death, the show-trial of Oskar Gröning, the A decade later she was sent a scrapbook 94 year-old “bookkeeper of Auschwitz”, documenting these events. As her husband reminds us there were other small cogs in owned the Mirror group, the story was other wheels. As a 19-year-old bank clerk he featured in 1988 and appeared in the TV show had volunteered for one of the elite fighting That’s Life. It was, of course, Nicholas Winton, units of the Waffen SS, but was more useful the British Schindler, who rescued children as an accountant, and he worked in war-time from near-certain death at the hands of the

Berlin for several years. He was later sent to Auschwitz to register the money of what he thought were ordinary prisoners. When he realised what was going on he asked for a transfer to active service. This request was finally granted and he was sent to an SS unit in the Ardennes, where he was wounded and hospitalized, but returned to fight on the front line till the war’s end. After his years as a British POW he returned to Germany where he had a successful career in industry, living quietly until he openly criticised the spread of Holocaust Denial. It is ironical that it was his public-spirited decision to speak out that led to his being jailed, in what many consider a cynically belated burst of moral outrage from Germany’s judiciary. I often wonder how I would have behaved if faced with such awesome decisions as a young man. My grandmother, who lived in Occupied France, refused to be judgmental. In my own peaceful life the kind of ethical decision I faced was whether to send my children to boarding school. It would ill become one so fortunate to claim the moral high ground.

FEATURES Thanks to Keith Morris, this

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FEATURES Ken Morris celebrates

The Hope Park Church Buildings – 150 Years Young The buildings of Hope Park Church have been around for 150 years – a long time – and you get used to your surroundings, whether seen close up or from a distance. On the approach to St Andrews, as someone once said, as you pass through Guardbridge you very quickly see the “point” of Hope Park, although it’s now slowly disappearing in the ever-growing tree-lined approach to the town. When the railway station was open, the Church spire dominated the scene as you left your train; this is still the view that greets you as you climb up from the Petheram Bridge car park or leave the bus station.

The origins of the congregation go back to Our predecessors chose their site well – a 1738, when the first faithful few saw their future strategic location at a major junction in an old away from the established Church of Scotland. grey toun full of the historic architecture of the With their independence past. The tall spire bears of thought and spirit they witness to their faith and Hope Park has developed, wanted their faith to be foresight, the latest in a long changed and re-appraised expressed free from pilgrimage through the town, itself over the years overbearing influence and from small beginnings in out-of-date traditions. After properties now occupied as much disruption, the schisms of the church dwellings, through a church on a site in North were gradually healed; a mostly unified Kirk Street, now long gone, to a large and attractive emerged in 1929. place of worship to meet their needs and those As with all organisations, however, each of the future. A new upstairs hall was added in congregation kept its own individual style and 1901 and the recently-installed lift has proved a practices, providing folk with a worthwhile boon to those less well able to climb stairs. choice of how they could express their faith in worship and witness. Folk visiting those congregations could perceive an intangible individual spirit in each church. Hope Park has developed, changed and re-appraised itself over the years, now incorporating the congregation and parish of the former Martyrs Church, with a growing sense of unity born out of the union of the two congregations in 2010. There is also a linkage with the Parish Church of Strathkinness, bringing with it a recognition of the benefits of an association with a rural parish. Our organisations: Guild; Encounter; Pins and Needles; Social Club; Scottish Country Dancing; House Group, continue to receive good support, and are complemented by Outreach Groups like the Blind Club; Memory Café; Roundabout Café; and the Stratheden Group. Messy Church Meetings also gives youngsters a chance to have fun, learn and eat together. The enthusiastic Choir leads worship Sunday by Sunday, regularly performing new works as well as old favourites. The congregation of Hope Park and Martyrs has grown through years of worship and witness, through responding to inspiring preaching, and through independent but focussed thought. Our faith gives us the courage to believe that the future must hold out hope in an increasingly secular country and world. We look forward in that faith to meet whatever challenges are to come with that same fortitude that held our forbears together and which must be striven for in the years to come. (Photo by Flora Selwyn)

FEATURES

Jurek Pütter, recalling an episode in a Lammas Fair ‘lang syne’

29 fish suppers please! Catching his breath, chip scoop held combatively in his akin to that of the Roman arena; the performance, edged right hand, resting momentarily against the hot frying with more than a hint of aggression, became ever more range, fired up, he braced himself for the next invasion of sharply honed and refined into something resembling customers. As the last wave had triumphantly reeled out Olympian theatre. He was seventeen, he was lithe, fit into the street, he was seamlessly laying out the brown and bursting with endless energy, hungry to perform, greaseproof papers for the next big order. His boss and impress and make money. The pinnacle of his summer chief fryer, Horace the Italian, had a semi-static role to ‘chip shop season’ was the five days of the Lammas play that day. His actions were mind-numbingly robotic; Market in St Andrews, the oldest street fair in Scotland, perpetually he dipped battered haddock into two of the a surprisingly colourful relic of the Catholic Middle Ages, five broiling vats of dripping, then tipped freshly-cut chips occupying Medieval South Street, from Abbey Street to into the remaining three. Horace’s movements were slight, the West Port and Market Street. For those five days, the but rhythmic, inclined forward at a rakish angle which menu was savagely cut to chips or Fish Suppers only. after eleven hours didn’t do his back This reduction improved cooking any favours. Five pans frying don’t and counter productivity out of all whisper, they bubble and froth and recognition. It added that mighty The customers were roar, even more so when fresh chips ingredient to the serving equation jammed tightly against the – speed. Faced with such a limited are added. From the heat for eleven hyperactive hours that day, there was choice the customers, once confined counter, vocal and noisy, no escape. in the super-tight queue from which but for the best part jolly The customers were jammed there was no escape, readily and and good natured tightly against the counter, vocal and willingly acquiesced to the restriction. noisy, but for the best part jolly and Everyone benefited; customers good natured. “We’re a bus party and staff alike. But it was a short-lived frae Perth, and we a’ want fish suppers. There’s a lot wonder, for such a murderous pace and pressure couldn’t o’ us. Bet you dinnae ken hoo many fish suppers we be sustained for more than the five days, no matter how want? Yi’ll no hae had an order as big as oor wan the well the staff were paid and bonuses gladly given. That day!” He had moved off the range, Horace had eyed him; was the second week of August 1961. eye contact with raised eyebrows were the language Where had it started for him? Eleven years before, of communication. He knew that fresh chips and fish when his parents acquired the tenancy of a house at the would be ready in a few moments. He smiled wryly at the rear of Jannetta’s Ice Cream and Confectionary shop, spokesman, pursed his lips and raised an eyebrow. above the rear of the Fish and Chip shop. The two shops Amidst much laughter, the order came, “Twenty nine were an interlinked opportunity to make money. Within the fish suppers please! Bet yi cannae handle that in a hurry!” year he was doing an array of odd jobs in both premises; More ribald laughter. Horace had emptied the pans and making ice lollies, sweeping floors; cleaning and filling was refilling them. He sprang into action. Twenty papers condiment containers; learning to make fish cakes and were ready, nine more would follow. Horace instinctively clean down the frying range; stacking chairs on tables for moved back to clear the entire floor space between the the morning cleaners; washing cutlery and crockery. As range and the counter for the ensuing choreographic he grew older, more experienced and trusted, his tasks action. In the unimpeded space he scooped, arced over grew; chipping potatoes by the ton in the aquatic back to the papers and laid chips in one flowing seamless shop wearing wellies; cleaning the toilets, and unblocking movement, without spillage and with minimal footwork. drains, (tasks nobody wanted to do willingly, but for him Without a pause, the fish were likewise transferred from the expression, ‘where there’s muck there’s brass’ ruled warming holding tray to their bed of chips. That done he supreme) and learning how to serve the public at the held up the salt and vinegar. “Oh aye, on each wan, lots chip-shop counter. With that last accomplishment came o’ it”. the introduction and the initiation to the mysteries of Twenty-nine pairs of eyes followed each dexterous frying. The summer of the following year, 1962, the year movement as if at a sports tournament. Next came the of leaving school and going to art college in Edinburgh, wrapping. He’d mastered that years ago, but as he grew was the last of the summer holidays’ Fish and Chip Shop up and his hands became bigger and his fingers stronger, work. It embraced for one last flourish the heightened it all became easier. He’d worked hard to excel at the gladiatorial battles of the Lammas Market event, the near wrapping, for he was now close up, at touching distance tranquil aftermath weeks of the return to the full menu and to his audience, and his fingers folded, seamed, and trading normality. But there were times when the shop had tucked in a blur. That done he piled up the first batch, laid but a handful of quiet customers patiently waiting for their out more papers fast, repeating the performance. Finally, orders, the vats were quietly murmuring their frying song, the order was split into two piles and double wrapped in when time permitted him to gaze out onto the tranquil lurid scandal-laden double-spread pages of the News of street to see the first of the leaves falling in the everthe World. He glanced at the clock atop the burnished lengthening shadows, and yearn longingly for the electric stainless steel Halifax-made range, and said, “Eight excitement of that combative cry, that martial virile call to minutes! Fast enough?” arms of, “Twenty-nine fish suppers please!” There was always the challenge to turn round the order in less time than the last. There was adrenaline rush Illustration and text, © Jurek Alexander Pütter

FEATURES

FEATURES: REVIEWS Ian Bradley introduces his new book,

Argyll: The Making of a Spiritual Landscape Published by St Andrew Press at £19.99 in paperback, £25 in hardback. North East Fife and Argyll, though on opposite sides of Scotland, have quite a lot in common. Both are rural areas, which attract many tourists to their spectacular coastlines and atmospheric fishing villages. They have deeper and more historic affinities as ancient kingdoms – in the case of Argyll, the Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riata – and as the locations of Scotland’s two most important medieval ecclesiastical centres, Iona and St Andrews. They are to be connected in the next few years via a cross-Scotland pilgrim way. There are, of course, differences between the two regions. The landscape of Fife is mostly flat, its coastline lacking the many indentations and sea lochs which are such a feature of Argyll, which has a longer coastline than France. Fife is the heartland of the Picts, Argyll the home of the Gaels. Argyll is also a great deal wetter, mistier, greener, more rocky than Fife, giving it its distinctive colours of blue, green, grey, and purple. Although I have lived in St Andrews for very nearly thirty years, Argyll has a special place in my heart. The book I have just written on its distinctive spiritual landscape is a labour of love. Indeed, it represents the consummation of a life-long love affair. Perhaps its origins can even be traced back before my birth, for I was conceived, so my parents informed me, in the Argyll Arms in Inveraray! Carsaig Bay, which is illustrated on the front cover, is where I hope to be laid

to rest when I die, next to my mother, who was born in nearby Tayvallich, my father, my brother, generations of my Campbell ancestors, who were tenant farmers at Barnashalg, now a ruin in the wooded hillside above. It overlooks Jura, where my greatgreat-great grandfather, Alexander Kennedy, was minister from 1823 to 1849, and where I have undertaken a number of locum ministries. Another Argyll island, Iona, has been perhaps the single most important source of my spiritual refreshment and growth over the last 25 years. These personal links may partly explain why I find Argyll to have a more markedly and distinctively spiritual landscape than anywhere else I have been. It is a landscape of presences and prophecies, of premonitions and intimations of mortality, and immortality itself. Both its natural and its man-made features prompt spiritual stirrings of a kind and intensity that I have not experienced elsewhere. Within its bounds are located seven of my own ‘top ten’ sacred places in the British Isles – the graveyard at Carsaig Bay; Iona Abbey; Jura Parish Church; Kilmartin valley; St Columba’s cave at Ellary; the Roman Catholic Cathedral at Oban; St Conan’s Kirk on Loch Awe. Laying aside my own feelings, a very good case can be made for regarding Argyll as one of the most distinctive and important spiritual landscapes in the British Isles. As well as having the most significant concentration of prehistoric religious sites in Europe, it can justly claim to be the cradle of Christianity, not just in Scotland, but for much of Britain. My new book, illustrated with more than 30 of my own colour photographs, explores ways in

which Argyll’s spiritual landscape has moulded and expressed the faith of its inhabitants. It is about the relationship between landscape, belief, and the spiritual significance of certain distinctive features in the make-up of Argyll, geographical, physical, social, cultural, tribal, and familial. It charts how successive movements of belief and religious practice have left marks on the landscape still very evident today. Among the figures, whose interaction with the Argyll landscape I explore, are Columba and the other Argyll saints, John Carswell of Carnasserie, George Matheson, the blind minister of Innellan, George MacLeod, other members of that remarkable Morvern dynasty, and numerous Earls and Dukes of Argyll. You cannot get far in Argyll without encountering a Campbell. I believe that this clan, controversial though it has been, has contributed considerably to Argyll’s distinctive spiritual atmosphere which I sum up as a unique combination of evangelical simplicity and liberal mysticism. Argyll’s spiritual landscape uniquely brings together Celtic and Calvinist, Catholic and Presbyterian, Gaelic and English, Highland and Lowland to create a cultural and religious outlook at once gentler, more mystical and more open than that of neighbouring regions. NB – Ian Bradley will be speaking about his book at Toppings Bookshop in October. Please see Selected Events, page 23.

Henry Marsh reviews

Dundee but not as we know it! by Susan McMullan Black and White Publishing, 2015. ISBN: 978 1 84502 960 9. Available at all good bookshops, at £9.99. This is a book for visitors to browse, and certainly, for Dundonians to help them wake up to their own city. Dundee’s history, its nooks and unexpected crannies, its folk, are all celebrated here. There is a useful bibliography to help follow things up. This book is all the more helpful in that the remains of Medieval and Renaissance Dundee have been pretty well obliterated over the last century or so. Certainly the slums, but also what was fascinating and beautiful have been swept away, so to highlight some of what remains, such as the sixteenth-century Gardyne’s Land, is all the more welcome. The Dundee of my childhood was a city of extremes. I was glad, then, to see these extremes sharply focussed in accounts that set the extraordinary wealth associated with the mansions of West Ferry against the notorious poverty of families where only the women were employed and paid the lowest wages in the UK for equivalent work. The heart warms to hear of the resilience, the independence of these women. How are manicured lawns and painted ceilings to be accounted against Lochee slums, rickets, tuberculosis, and the alcoholism of despair? Such were the times I suppose. Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of this book are the personalities that it touches upon, particularly the women, from Grissell

Jaffray, a Quaker strangled and burnt at the stake for witchcraft in 1669, to Williamina Fleming, who became Harvard University’s Curator of Astronomical Photographs. She went on to create a system for classifying stars and in 1910 created an astronomical landmark in her discovery of white dwarf stars. Always the mark of a good read, I found myself wanting answers to questions that couldn’t be explored in a book of this scale. Why, for example, did Thomas John MacLagan a pioneer in the development of aspirin, choose to explore the properties of the white willow tree; how was the papier-mâché dome of the Mills Observatory protected against the elements? The book is written in a lively style. Each topic is well illustrated with a photograph. It is robust to handle – the publishers have done a good job. It is organised in geographical areas – Central Dundee, North, West, East. Each has a list of contents associated with helpful introductory maps. It is a book that anyone would be happy to own.

FEATURES: REVIEWS Animalculum reviews

The Catsup High Detective Agency By Margaret Ryan Published by Catnip, 2015. Available from local bookshops at £4.99; also online from WH Smith and Amazon.

The Catsup High Detective Agency, is the first book in a new series by local author, Margaret Ryan. Margaret, whose last series, Roodica the Rude, was chosen by Richard and Judy to launch their children’s book club, is hoping her new series will be as well received. “I do like writing about cats,” says Margaret, “though I could never have one as my son is very allergic. I had a lot of fun coming up with the idea of a cat detective agency whose owner, Malarkey, can fly, thanks to his magic flying scarf. Malarkey, though, is none too bright and has

to hire an assistant detective to help him solve a difficult case. His new assistant, Sparkie, may just be a tiny kitten, but he is very bright and also has special powers. These prove to be very useful when the pair of them come up against some really bad guys...” The splendid illustrations by Vicky Barker add to the humour and the feline fun. For more information visit Margaret’s site at www.margaretryan.co.uk

Andrea Tilney, well-loved librarian in St Andrews Town Library until her retirement this year, reviews this new children’s ghost story set in St Andrews,

Jaz Jordan and the Dungeon of Bones by Thorn Steafel Printed in 2014 by CreateSpace, an Amazon.com company. Available in J & G Innes, at £7.99. Introducing Jaz Jordan – she has red hair and red specs, but there’s something odd about the specs. She’s definitely not your average twelve year-old girl. Jaz longs to be normal, but she’s on the run with Jimmy her dad, the need to escape some nasty crooks being top priority, who want their £25,000 back and will go to any lengths to get it. Jimmy thinks it would be a good time for a holiday. They rent a luxury cottage in the middle of nowhere, and so the adventure begins. Set in and around rural Fife, Jaz finds herself with little to occupy her until she meets Connor, a twelve year-old runaway. It’s the summer holidays. Connor has only been able to stand two days at home, so packing up the bare essentials he heads for Chimney House – the residential school for boys he has attended as a pupil, and where he intends to hang out. It’s empty, of course, even scary to some people, but not to Connor – he knows it as a place of refuge – but he is not alone. People and places are not always what they appear to be at first. When Connor

encounters Jaz it’s unnerving to find she can speak his thoughts aloud. She knows what he is about and he needs to get rid of her – fast. Jaz ,on the other hand, intends to stick with Connor and explore the vast empty school. There are ghosts here; Jaz can definitely feel them as well as something else – Evil. Time-bending, shape-shifting, doors slamming and locking by themselves entrap Jaz and Connor in a maze of endless corridors. The smell of smoke, increasing shadows, deafening noises garner together to force the pair to seek the cellar – where the Evil really lies. Meanwhile the crooks have tracked down Jimmy and Jaz. They kidnap Jimmy, but he’s saying nothing, even with the prospect of being fired at by a crossbow! With mounting menace the game is on to locate their money. However, this is no game and again nothing is as it seems. The evil occupant of Chimney House is intent on pursuing his own agenda. He needs to find someone to possess – he is going after

Jaz, and time is running out. In the final denouement, scores are settled, Chimney House yields its hidden past, and secrets buried for years are revealed. This is Book 1 in a five-installment series. Thorn Steafel gives the reader a wide range of ideas, a great sense of pace and of plot. He certainly knows how to ratchet up the tension. Part ghost story, part thrilling adventure, it’s hugely exciting and entertaining. We look forward to following Jaz on another of her adventures. To find out about those hidden secrets you’ll have to read the book for yourself. The past always finds a way to catch up…don’t forget, people and places are not always what they seem!

ORGANISATIONS Jill Anderson, Express Group Co-ordinator for North East Fife, is

Shedding light on good health What is your definition of good health? Being able to walk up Dempster Terrace without stopping for a breather? Getting through the winter without having a cold? Some years ago The World Health Organisation said, “Health is a state of complete physical, mental, and social well-being, and not merely the absence of disease or infirmity.” If this is the case, then we need much more than a bowl of apples, a walk up the brae, and a good GP to stay healthy! Being in sound health is just as much about feeling good about yourself, being productive and valuable to your community, connecting to friends, as it is about maintaining an active body. It is about having good physical and good mental health. Who would have guessed that this could be found in a shed?! Before we look into the shed, indulge me a little as I make a sweeping generalisation that will have many of you shouting exceptions to prove the rule: women are likely to have friends they meet regularly to chat with over coffee or lunch, friends they can call on for help and

support or just for a blether. Men tend to bottle their share of wood-shavings and tools! up their feelings and worries, have limited Express Group (Fife) Ltd is launching a social contact outside work, can easily become Men’s Shed Project here in St Andrews, in isolated and lonely, especially once they retire! partnership with Viewpoint at City Park. As you But help is at hand from a growing nationwide probably know, Express Group provides safe movement called the Shed Project. It seeks to spaces for people experiencing issues like support and improve the health depression, anxiety, and stress and wellbeing of men. to meet up throughout Fife, Shed Projects provide Why sheds? Well, and to share positive activity. a place where men traditionally the garden shed In St Andrews we meet in the can go to retreat has been the place a man went Victory Memorial Hall every to retreat from the demands of Monday 10.00am-1.00pm. work, home or family, into his own world, one We share craft activities and have lunch. On that he directed, managed and controlled. It Thursdays we meet at our allotment where we might have been full of wood shavings, rusty grow fruit, vegetables, and flowers. Express tools and spiders, but they were his to revel Group is now responding to a perceived need in! So likewise, Shed Projects provide a place in this community to support men who might where men can go to retreat – to be with other be feeling lonely and isolated, due to ill-health, men while working together on a task, sharing retirement, or unemployment, giving them an skills and experience, and enjoy each other’s opportunity to share skills, experiences, and company. The projects do not all meet in find friends among the like-minded. In the actual sheds, many are in warehouses or old Men’s Shed environment rather than just sitting factories, but they are all directed, managed around, members can chat shoulder to shoulder and controlled by men for men, and all have while working on tasks that are useful to their community. In doing so, they can maintain the social, emotional, psychological, and physical wellbeing we all so badly need. We are now looking for potential members, volunteers, people who can donate equipment to help us launch this group in the autumn. If you are interested in finding out more, or think you can help in any way, please contact Jill Anderson (Area Coordinator for Express Group) 07970111 822, Cath Carter (Parish Nurse for St Andrews) 07792 941 783, or Henry Paul (Shed Project Steering Group) 0797 713 163. Express Group (Fife) Ltd. 110 Rosslyn Street, Kirkcaldy, KY1 3AD. Contact details: e-mail: info@expressgroup.co.uk Head Office: Fay, 01592 652 975. Company Limited by Guarantee. Registration No. SC 283586 Registered Charity No SC 015338. We support “see me” Scotland’s anti-stigma mental health campaign.

(Photos courtesy Jill Anderson)

ORGANISATIONS Mary Popple, Chair of St Andrews Fairtrade Group

Fairtrade at the 144th Open As well as being a hugely exciting sporting event The Open supported the town’s Fairtrade status with Fairtrade products available at all the catering outlets throughout the week of the 144th Open. The St Andrews Fairtrade Town Campaign group has been working closely with the R&A since the last time the Championship was staged in St Andrews in 2010. This has led to the R&A introducing Fairtrade products as part of The Open’s broader commitment to sustainability. All tea, coffee, hot chocolate, sugar, and bananas supplied throughout the Championship were Fairtrade, which translates into a tonne of coffee, 10,500 teabags, 64,000 sugar sticks and 80kg of hot chocolate! Michael Wells, The R&A’s Director of Championship Staging, commented, “We are delighted to be working closely with the St Andrews Fairtrade Group to ensure our food and drink offering meets high standards for ethical production.” To publicise this commitment to ethical sourcing, information boards were sited around the event site explaining the use of Fairtrade produce. Not only does The Open have a really positive impact on local businesses, but it also has a global reach improving the livelihoods of some of the poorest people in the world. The Scottish Fair Trade Forum is an national organisation providing support to local community campaign groups. Their Director, Martin Rhodes, said, “It’s good to see Scotland’s status as a Fair Trade Nation further enhanced by the growing commitment to Fairtrade by high profile events and supporters, such as The Open; this is an excellent example of the impact that local Fairtrade Town groups can have.” With the help of students from the University of St Andrews, the Fairtrade Town group has also updated the local Fairtrade Directory – a list of retail and catering outlets in St Andrews that sell or serve Fairtrade products. These guides are widely available in shops around town, in holiday accommodation, while the information is also on the town Fairtrade website: www.fairtrade-standrews.org.uk The St Andrews Fairtrade Town group is always looking for new ways to promote Fairtrade, so if you have ideas or wish to join the campaign, please contact them at: secretary@fairtrade-standrews.org.uk

Mary Popple holds the Claret Jug beside a banner describing how The Open used Fair Trade products in St Andrews, July 2015.

From Charmaine Duthie, 8th Fife (St Andrews) Explorer Scout Leader

Swiss-Scottish, Scouting Hospitality Following months of correspondence plus a recce visit to Scotland, the 8th Fife (St Andrews) Explorer Scout Unit were delighted to welcome to St Andrews a party of 59 Scouts and Leaders from Zürich, Switzerland. The party was made up of girl Scouts from Pfadi Agua and boy Scouts from Pfadi Flamberg Scout Units as part of their 10- day tour of Scotland. An international movement, Scouting offers Scouts across the world some fantastic opportunities. The Swiss visit was the chance for Scouts and Leaders to spend time together getting to know a little about each

other, exchanging some new skills and songs. The St Andrews Scouts ensured that the short visit was jam packed, with a walk along the coastal path followed by a traditional Scottish dinner, finishing off with a ceilidh on the East Sands, a campfire, and a night’s camping together. The Swiss Scout Leader, Seline Stokar, thanked the St Andrews Leaders and Scouts for what had been a terrific time. She hoped the Swiss would be able to repay the St Andrews Unit when they visit Switzerland next summer, and that newly-formed friendships will then be rekindled.

Ceilidh on East Sands (Photo courtesy Charmaine Duthie)

ORGANISATIONS Katy Wooff, Marketing & Communication Officer

A Day in the Life of a BHWT Volunteer What’s it like to be a volunteer for the British Hen Welfare Trust (BHWT)? We caught up with Cheryl Binnie, Fife Co-ordinator for the hen welfare charity, to find out. The charity, which re-homes excommercial laying hens, and educates the public about how they can make a difference to hen welfare, also encourages support for the British egg industry. Since its launch in 2005 the charity has re-homed over 460,000 hens from over 31 ‘pop-up’ locations, like the one here in St Andrews. It is run by teams of volunteers across the UK, each team is headed up by a Co-ordinator like Cheryl. Cheryl, how did you find out about the work of the British Hen Welfare Trust and become involved in volunteering for them? “I became involved shortly after my Scottish husband and I emigrated from Texas to Scotland, following The British Chicken Out campaign on television, which Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall led, whereby he encouraged his own village in England and the British public to buy (and consume) only free-range chickens, and keep their own hens. Searching online for rescue hen groups I discovered BHWT. After one of the Scottish Co-ordinators could no longer help with re-homing, and following two long drives to Northumberland to pick up rescues for myself, I decided to offer my space and energies. It was love at first rescue!”

Total

When did you first start keeping ex-bats? “In 2008, after ‘The Chicken Out’ campaign, as soon as I discovered the BHWT. The farmer who owns the land around us was kind enough to allow me to use his old dog kennels in the farmyard. He allowed me to poach hay from his bales for the hens. He gave me priceless advice, too; it was the perfect starter set-up, plenty of sun, excellent protection from ubiquitous foxes, and loads of free-range plant life and grit around. I owe him a debt of gratitude. So do all the rescues!” What is your favourite part of keeping ex-bats? “First, there are the divine eggs. Nothing compares to a freshly-laid free-range egg. However, I was, and still am, fascinated with the different personalities of the hens, watching them establish the fabled “pecking order” over and over as newcomers arrive. I’ve spent many hours sitting near and amongst them, observing their funny manners and speaking to them (yes, I do talk to them all the time, and they do “reply”, in various sweet clucks and noises). Moreover, they are of course all named and wear coloured leg bands, their jewellery.” Describe a typical re-homing day... “From start to finish it is all pure teamwork! I have a wonderful energetic team with whom I am fortunate to work. From Hugh Jack, the farmer who sets up one of his barns for us to use on the day (and who has loaned us his truck and trailer), to the team of volunteers who arrive from far and wide to St Andrews, I am very lucky! ‘The Day’ actually begins a day or two before, when I wash and sterilise the carrying crates. My volunteers meet up on the Saturday morning of the rescue. We transport crates to the hen farm, where we work with a superb hen farm team to count and load the lucky girls whose lives we save that day. The more the merrier. If any girls are brought out of the barns who take us over our “count”, we always take them too, as we can’t live with ourselves if we let them get that far and then say ‘no’ to them! When we arrive back to my place, we unload the hens as quickly as possible, then get them feed and water. This is the best part to me: seeing the hens realise that they can walk freely, move around in a large, light

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space, and wonder at the sky and fresh air. It gives me happy chills. It is so satisfying to know that shortly they will all go to new retirement homes and live out their lives in virtual splendour. Indescribable joy! The re-homers then arrive with boxes for their new girls. We volunteers ‘catch and load’, which is the other exciting part of the day (besides noshing on the home baking we all bring along). We might need to trim nails on a few, so they depart with a ‘fresh manicure’. The hens can sometimes look a little tatty, but they recover well and transform into beautiful fully- feathered lovelies, as docile, winsome pets. Their terrific eggs are a bonus gift. The denouement is the cleaning and sterilising of the crates again. We depart tired, but with happy hearts full of gratitude to all those who re-home ‘our’ girls.” If early mornings, handling hens, and getting a bit dirty doesn’t faze you, but you enjoy great camaraderie, meeting like-minded people and saving lives – then it’s all in a day’s work as a BHWT volunteer. The charity is always on the lookout for dedicated people to join the team. If you are interested in supporting them through the valuable gift of your time, take a look at the current Volunteer Vacancies at www.bhwt.co.uk/get-involved or call Hen Central on 01884 860 084. The British Hen Welfare Trust will be holding a pop-up Hen Collection in St Andrews sometime in September, hoping once again to find loving homes for its hard-working ex-commercial hens. If you would like to reserve some ‘girls’, please contact the charity by calling 01884 860 084, or emailing hens@bhwt.org.uk (Photo courtesy Katy Wooff)

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St Andrews Concert Diary Septemberâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;December 2015 www.st-andrews.ac.uk/music

PULL-OUT FEATURE The University of St Andrews is the home of live music in Fife. St Andrews in Focus offers you an overview of the extraordinary range of musical activities taking place from September to December. For more information please visit www.st-andrews.ac.uk/music If you would like to receive weekly concert bulletins by email or the brochure ‘Music in St Andrews’ by post, please fill in the form at the end of this pull-out and return to Chris Bragg, Concerts Administrator, Music Centre office, Younger Hall, North Street, St Andrews, KY16 9AJ. SEMESTER

TIME CONCERT

DETAILS

Every Sunday during Semester

11:00

University Service sung by St Salvator’s Chapel Choir

St Salvator’s Chapel

Every Sunday during Semester

16:00

Choral Evensong sung by St Salvator’s Chapel Choir

St Salvator’s Chapel

Every Wednesday during Semester

17:30

Choral Evensong sung by St Salvator’s Chapel Choir

St Salvator’s Chapel

Every Thursday during Semester

22:00

Compline sung by St Leonard’s Chapel Choir

St Leonard’s Chapel

WEEK 1 Thursday 17 September 19:30

St Andrews Concert Series presents ‘Beethoven Plus’; Krysia Osostowicz (violin), Daniel Tong (piano)

Byre Theatre

WEEK 2

Tuesday 22 September

Organ concert by Tom Wilkinson

St Salvator’s Chapel

Wednesday 23 September 13:10

Lunch concert by the Danish String Quartet

Byre Theatre

Friday 25 September

13:10

Music Society lunchtime concert

Younger Hall

WEEK 3

Tuesday 29 September

13:10

Organ concert by Kevin Duggan

St Salvator’s Chapel

Wednesday 30 September 13:10

Lunch concert by Lucy Russell (baroque violin) and Tom Wilkinson (harpsichord)

Byre Theatre

Friday 2 October

13:10

Music Society lunchtime concert

Younger Hall

WEEK 4

Sunday 4 October

19:30

Heisenberg Ensemble, ‘Strings in the Byre’

Byre Theatre

Tuesday 6 October

13:10

Organ concert by Sean Heath

St Salvator’s Chapel

Wednesday 7 October 13:10

Lunch concert of Traditional music by Joshua Dickson and students from the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland

Byre Theatre

Wednesday 7 October 14:30

Music Talks with Joshua Dickson: Traditional music in higher education: an argument for post-revivalism.

Byre Theatre

Friday 9 October

13:10

Music Society lunchtime concert

Younger Hall

WEEK 5

Tuesday 13 October

13:10

Organ concert by Chris Nickol

St Salvator’s Chapel

Wednesday 14 October

13:10

Lunch concert by Zvonimir Filjak (guitar)

Byre Theatre

Wednesday 14 October

14:00

Improvising Film Music with Richard Michael

Byre Theatre

Thursday 15 October 19:30

St Andrews Concert Series presents Rafał Zambrzycki-Payne (violin), Agnieszka Marucha (violin) and Anthony Hewitt (piano)

Byre Theatre

Friday 16 October 10:00-12:30

Public violin and piano masterclasses by Rafał Zambrzycki-Payne, Agnieszka Marucha and Anthony Hewitt

Younger Hall, Rehearsal Room and Stewart Room

Friday 16 October

13:10

Music Society lunchtime concert

Younger Hall

Saturday 18 October

10:00-17:00

Conducting workshops

Younger Hall

Organ concert by Graham MacLagan with the Choir of Heriot’s School, Edinburgh

St Salvator’s Chapel

DATE

13:10

WEEK 6 Tuesday 20 October 13:10 PRE-VOICES EVENT

Wednesday 21 October