St Andrews in Focus Issue 7 Nov / Dec 2004

St Andrews in focus • shopping • eating • events • town/gown • people and more

November / December 2004, Issue 7 £1.50

the magazine for St Andrews www.standrewsinfocus.com

Jurek Pütter made the cover picture. Here he explains the background.

AD732 – The Arrival of Bishop Acca and the Relics of Saint Andrew

After the style of an polychromed miniature from a Mediaeval devotional ‘Book of Hours’, this picture celebrates the providential arrival by sea to the place now known as St. Andrevvs, of the Northumbrian bishop Acca of Hexham, bearing the accredited corporeal relics of Christ’s first chosen Apostle, Saint Andrew, in the year AD 732.

The Mediaeval illustrator would have chosen as his ‘stage-setting’, the lesser of the two great beaches, the ‘East Sands’.

Topographically that strand is the more credible of the two because it is closest to the ancient harbour and landfall, but also because it enables the spectator to appreciate the long-renowned, distinctive, and majestic, wooded headland dominated by the Christian Church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the first to be constructed on the site of the old pre-Christian Sacred Grove of Oaks. The ‘backcloth’, beneath the celestial canopy of the Northern heavens, is the familiar profile of the Sidlaw Hills of Angus, and a hint of the great arc of the vast Bay. The theatrical ‘action’, is that of a successful happy landfall. A large boat crammed with a crew of relieved clerics captained by a noble, commanding Bishop bearing an exceptionally richly decorated reliquary, safely beaches without loss of life, in calm sandy shallows. An unfurled Gregorian banner proudly proclaims the visitors’ ecclesiastical status and identity.

A welcoming royal reception committee eagerly wades towards the beached craft,

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offering the gift of sanctuary. The monarch or ‘Mormaer’, of the “Island Province’ of Fife is one Ungust, or Angus 1st. We may be tempted to indulge in a smile when we regard the theatricality of this event. The reality may have been less comfortable; the weather might have been atrocious, the crew sick and cold to the marrow, Angus petulantly wouldn’t get his feet wet.

Yet the event is not fiction. It did happen.

Six centuries later, Scotland, exhausted by almost thirty years of bitter strife with England to preserve her independence, fashioned a history of its folk for Papal consideration – important evidence, which would have vindicated English claims of influence, were neatly airbrushed out of history. Acca became Regulus; Hexham became Byzantium. A new myth was born out of political expediency.

Yet there was an Acca. He was Bishop of the Holy See of Hexham in Northumberland. Hexham, founded by St.Wilfrid, Acca’s predecessor, was the cult centre of the veneration of Saint Andrew the Apostle, whose accredited corporeal relics Wilfrid had astutely collected and enshrined within the magnificent reliquary casket called the Morbrac. In AD 732, Acca and his entire clerical entourage were forced to flee Hexham. Deliberately they sought sanctuary at the greatest Christian settlement north of Hexham, Kinrymonth. In all probability they vacated Northumberland via Lindisfarne. It is less than a day’s sailing to Fife. Angus, probably having prior knowledge of their intentions, welcomed the grateful refugees and their Morbrac, which by itself brought Angus and Kilrymonth immeasurably enhanced prestige. Importantly, Acca returned to Hexham eight year later; the Morbrac and its priceless relics remained. Hexham’s loss was Pictdom’s, and later Scotland’s, gain.

The arrival of such spiritually priceless relics was regarded as providential – an Act of God, part of some mysterious Divine plan. These were not the remains of some local Saint, but those of a Disciple of Christ; and not just of any Disciple, but of Andrew, Christ’s first chosen Apostle, the fisherman of Galilee, who had been a follower of John the Baptist, who had foretold the imminent coming of the Messiah. It was Andrew who first had the wit to recognise the Messiah and bring his brother Peter to meet Him. Andrew’s credentials were impeccable, for he too, like Christ and St. Peter, was crucified for the Faith. Andrew’s sacred holy reputation was colossal.

Kinrymonth quickly became St. Andrews, and with it came pilgrims and pilgrimage. Pilgrimage encourages travel, spreads knowledge, helps break down barriers between peoples, tribes and

cultures, and broadens horizons. The holier the place, the greater the status of relics, the more magnetic its appeal.

For any 8th century land and its folk, however geographically remote or diverse, to be chosen as guardians of such relics, was regarded as the ultimate sacred honour. The arrival of the relics can be seen as the ‘vital spark’, which ignited and inculcated among a hitherto remote and rather mysterious group of tribes a sense of being ‘honoured’. It is a short psychological distance from ‘honoured’ to ‘chosen’. It is an equally short distance from being a ‘tribe’ to becoming a ‘people’, then a “Nation’. One hundred and twenty years later, came the king of Dalriada, Kenneth MacAlpin, whose aggressive, acquisitive eye coveted and conquered the richer Kingdoms of the Eastern Seaboard, including the Holy Settlement of St. Andrews. His new Kingdom went by the alien Irish name of his people, the Scots, hence, Scotland.

AD 732 is hallmarked by two auspicious events; Charles Martel’s victory over the Arabs at Tours and Poitiers stemming the tide of their westwards advance; and the arrival of Bishop Acca with the relics of Saint Andrew at Kinrymonth. The former secured the Christian identity and future of Europe; the latter ignited the first spark of a ‘national’ consciousness among the diverse tribes peopling Northern Britain.

Both events may have taken place seven hundred miles apart at opposite ends of Europe, but both were judged at the time, and later, as providential.

As the crow flies and a ship sails, it is a shade over a hundred miles from Hexham to St. Andrews. Those hundred miles were last travelled by the relics of Andrew the Apostle. But ironically they did start their journey from Byzantium. Gregory the papal legate, later Pope Gregory ‘the Great’, acquired them from the Emperor Tiberius 11. With these relics he endowed his Monastery in Rome. When Pope, he dispatched St. Augustine on his mission to convert the Saxon tribes of Kent. He provided Augustine with some of those same relics. From Kent the cult of the Saint spread and with it tiny fragments of bone to consecrate the altar of each church dedicated in the Apostle’s name. Relics of Andrew reached York. St.Wilfrid went twice on pilgrimage to Rome, collecting on each occasion additional fragments of the Apostle. These he brought to his great Church at Hexham. Quite a journey – quite a story!

St Andrews in focus • shopping • eating • events • town/gown • people and more

From the Editor Winston Churchill once wrote, “The future, though imminent, is obscure.”

This time last year the future of St. Andrews in Focus, was quite obscure; any idea that within twelve months it could have in excess of 20,000 readers from within and around St. Andrews, England, across the Atlantic, the Mediterranean, and in the Antipodes, would have seemed wildly optimistic – yet it has happened. This issue marks our first anniversary, something again to celebrate. First and foremost, St. Andrews in Focus is there for St. Andrews. As long as the town supports it, it will thrive, and it will help people keep in touch. Here is just a sample of the many kind things readers have said – I was most impressed with the publication when I saw it when I was last in St Andrews; it’s just what the town needs!

I received St Andrews in Focus yesterday. The quality and content are excellent.

Just received my new issue and have read it already – at least for the first time – will be dipping in again. What a super read, full of info and interesting reports.

St.Andrews in Focus is an excellent publication and much welcomed in St Andrews.

We’re very lucky that, in the St.Andrews Citizen, we’re well served by our excellent local newspaper but St.Andrews in Focus offers something different, and something which complements the Citizen “May the flour of your bread be milled between the finest stones!”, and “the sails of your mill be forever turned by an endless breeze!”

Cheers on the latest edition of SAIF! I found it most interesting and quite thoughtprovoking. The lead article was fascinating. I very much enjoyed the issue. I hope there are many more to come!

Have received my St Andrews in Focus, for which many thanks. Another stunning production! Well done.

So – ‘Lang may oor lum aye reek!’

Flora Selwyn

PS – the cover of the Sept / Oct issue had many people asking for the identity of the town beneath the performer’s wings; it is Shoreham by Sea, just west of Brighton.

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The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor. Every effort is made to be accurate, but if mistakes do slip through the Editor is happy to receive corrections.

“To err is human...” after all!

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2004 EDITOR Flora Selwyn Tel/fax: 01334 472375 Email: editor@standrewsinfocus.com ADVERTISING MANAGER Chris Manighetti Email: chris.manighetti@talk21.com DESIGNER University of St Andrews Reprographics Unit PRINTER Tayport Printers Ltd. DISTRIBUTER B & S Distribution, Dundee THE PAPER USED IS 75% RECYCLED POST-CONSUMER WASTE

PUBLISHER (address for correspondence) Local Publishing (Fife) Ltd., PO Box 29210, St. Andrews, Fife, KY16 9YZ. Tel/fax: 01334 472375 Email: enquiries@standrewsinfocus.com SUBSCRIPTIONS St. Andrews in Focus is published 6 times a year, starting in January. Subscriptions for the full year are: £10.00 in the UK (post & packing included) £18.00 overseas (post & packing included) Please send your name and address, together with remittance to: Local Publishing (Fife) Ltd., PO Box 29210, St. Andrews, Fife, KY16 9YZ. REGISTERED IN SCOTLAND: 255564 149 Market Street, St. Andrews, Fife, KY16 9PF.

NEXT ISSUE – January/February 2005 COPY DEADLINE: STRICTLY 28 NOVEMBER All contributions welcome. The Editor reserves the right to publish copy according to available space.

Contents TOWN/GOWN • Mark Wallace, about Bluegrass…

• When is a tradition not a tradition?

Naomi Cooper isn’t sure.

• International Politics Association • Down Mexico way • Neutrino Physics SHOPS & SERVICES • Happy birthday, Pottery Shop – 21 this year!

• John Ferguson experiences the Power of the Earth • The Australian Connection • A fascinating glimpse of days “lang syne” • Graeme Cockburn, Audiologist • St. Andrews, a Fairtrade town?

• St Andrews Osteopaths & Body Ecosse, the Holistic approach • The Keracher story • Postwoman Carole Sinclair • Roving Reporter’s news • Dun Greetin’ – again!

• Competition time! Try your luck!

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OUT AND ABOUT • The Friends pay tribute to their retiring Chairman • A postscript to the article on Caiplie Caves • Toonspot • A matter of Access

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SELECTED EVENTS • List • St. Andrews Week

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FEATURES • Rita Henderson at the Byre • The Burgh School revisited • Bruce Ryan invites you to stand for the Community Council • Ted Brocklebanks’-eye view of the new Parliament building • Lifang introduces our Chinese community • Two Book Reviews : – St. Leonard’s Parish Church Centenary History – St. Andrews, Portrait of a City • Jeffrey Ashcroft – the Music Club • Saint Andrew, and six national flags • Mouren, daughter of King Hungus • A train ride with Lillias Scott Forbes • Family History Tourism • Bring back the St. Andrews Society!

• Stephanie Stevenson evokes The Beggar’s Benison • Letter inspired by a 19th century Professor • The Museum Panel answers, and a new question is posed • The story of the Kinnessburn Road shell decoration: and another turns up • A. C. Rutherford remembers • Two short tales from the Pulpit • Interview with Mrs. Jardine • Ariane Buchan sends greetings • Lucy Paget-tomlinson tells a Christmas story

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TOWN/GOWN

No Strings Attached: American Heritage meets Scottish Tradition Flora Selwyn met Postgraduate Students, Don Collett (Divinity) and Mark Wallace (History), and asked them about their musical roots, Bluegrass music, and their band No Strings Attached.

What is Bluegrass music?

Don: Like all musical genres, bluegrass music has evolved over time and is difficult to define in any rigid fashion. Its traditional character, however, gives it a certain permanence that resists the sort of fluidity you find in other musical genres. One way to describe it would be to say that it is an American adaptation of the music which Scots-Irish immigrants brought with them to the colonies in the late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Musical forms such as jigs, reels, and hornpipes found their way into the mountains of the eastern United States, and these forms influenced bluegrass.

As for its name – well, Bill Monroe, regarded as the father of American bluegrass music, was born in Kentucky. Kentucky is known as the “bluegrass state” because the grass has a blue hue to it – hence the name.

What kinds of styles do you bring to the band?

Mark: My style of bluegrass has been influenced by life in rural Virginia. In the south, bluegrass music tells stories that often reflect real experiences and emotions – essentially musical history. Many of the songs that my family and I play and sing are about small country towns; the Blueridge Mountains; farm life; growing up in the South; hard work; and of course, dogs. Gospel music is also important. Much of the music speaks to strong family and religious ties.

Don: As one who hails from the Rocky Mountain West, I’ve naturally been influenced by the songs and ballads of the Old West. In the early days of country music in America, this music was typically called “western” music – hence the name “Country and Western.”

I have also been influenced by the “California tradition” of doing bluegrass. This is a West Coast adaptation of bluegrass that tends to be more open to the influence of different musical traditions, such as jazz and blues. Our bassist, Andy Edwards, brings these alternative elements to the band.

Mark: In Virginia, bluegrass music is everywhere. And just about everyone in my family either plays or sings, so one might say it’s a family tradition. My cousins played for several years at Dollywood in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee. Dad and his twin brother performed throughout Virginia and North Carolina and took their music overseas when they served as chaplains in the Navy. As far as my introduction to bluegrass, Dad gave me a banjo from a Sears & Roebuck catalogue when I was eight years old. I haven’t put it down since. Mom and Dad have been supportive of my playing, even through those early years of hacking away at it.

Don: I became involved in bluegrass music through my interest in guitar playing, which I started as a teenager. My uncles all played country music, as well as old-time western music and cowboy ballads. One uncle in particular was from the state of Tennessee, and he introduced me to the playing of Doc Watson. After that I began to listen to a number of bluegrass guitarists, and have pretty much been addicted ever since then.

Eventually I decided that I needed a real day job and that brought me all the way here to Scotland, where I met Mark, another bluegrass aficionado. The rest, as they say, is history.

Has Scottish music influenced your band?

Mark: Yes, to a great extent. Scottish and Irish music were very influential in laying the groundwork for bluegrass. You can hear the similarities between fiddle tunes, reels, and many songs. Our fiddle player, Ingrid Hammond, brings a traditional Scottish element to the band.

What have been your performance experiences in Scotland?

Don: No Strings Attached has played at a number of open mic sessions here in St. Andrews, primarily at the Byre Theatre, and also at the coffee shop Java Junction on South Street. We have also played at an open mic session for the Scottish Bluegrass Music Association in Linlithgow during their annual folk festival. More recently we have performed gigs at Aikman’s pub in Bell Street and at a Muster for the Anstruther sailing club at the Anstruther harbour.

Mark: We really enjoy playing and performing.

As Don and I have been picking bluegrass for most of our lives, we share common traditions. Although we bring different songs and styles to the table, there isn’t a great deal of difficulty in learning the music because bluegrass is something we know and understand.

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Ingrid Hammond, final-year undergraduate at the University of St. Andrews, has been playing violin for ten years. She started playing Scottish fiddle music when she joined the ‘Tayside Young Fiddlers’ based in Dundee. After leading the group for one year, she became ‘Musical Assistant’, which involved tutoring younger members and taking charge of the group at various recitals. In 2001 Ingrid won the 18-and-under fiddle and piano classes at the Royal National Mod and has been invited to compete in the Glenfiddich Fiddle Championship at Blair Castle in the past two years. She is currently working on establishing a new ceilidh band ‘Bachnagairn’ with some former members of the Tayside Young Fiddlers, and also enjoys playing in the University Chamber Orchestra.

Postgraduate Student Andy Edwards, an electric bassist from Richmond, Virginia, has played over 150 rock, folk, and fusion performances along the East Coast of the United States. He comes to bluegrass music with a more alternative, fusionbased approach, having been exposed to groups like Bela Fleck and the Flecktones, Tony Trischka, and Leftover Salmon. His style of playing is largely influenced by the innovations of another Virginia bassist, Victor Wooten (Flecktones). While he realizes that fans of traditional bluegrass prefer the upright acoustic bass, he is confident that experimentation with electric instruments may provide opportunities for the genre to grow and develop.

No Strings Attached will be the opening performance for the critically acclaimed American bluegrass band Lost Highway on 12 November 2004 in Linlithgow.

For more information visit http://www.scottishbluegrass.com.

For information and bookings, call Mark Wallace at 01334 475 911 or visit http://www.mcwbluegrass.com No Strings Attached can be reached by email at mcwbluegrass@hotmail.com.

TOWN/GOWN Newly graduated, Naomi Cooper ponders –

When is a tradition not a tradition?

There is no doubt that living close to the heart although sometimes in the fourth, who would of St. Andrews means sharing a town with act a bit like an older brother or sister perhaps several thousand students. Townsfolk must – introduce them to other students and student easily be confused by the frequently bizarre life, give advice on various aspects of being a behaviour exhibited by the students, which student. Although this is still the idea behind sometimes causes streets to be closed, or the Academic Family, the now numerous and puzzling puddles of eggs and flour to appear complicated “Academic relationships” arising as if by magic on the pavements and outside from several “children” to each “parent” (and University buildings. Crossing the minds of sometimes vice versa), the almost predatory many residents must manner in which also be the question, parents and children . . . it is hard to tell with ‘Why?’ If you asked any alike are found, students where traditions student this question the changes in the they would probably events of Raisin come from, whether they know yell ‘Tradition!’ over Weekend and the their shoulders as they apparent change what the traditions mean, charged off to cover in emphasis from and whether they really are their fellow students with friendship and good eggs, flour, BabyCham, clean fun to extreme traditions, not just excuses for or perhaps even shaving alcohol consumption eccentric or poor behaviour. foam. seems to have Everybody looks skewed the original with some degree of favour on tradition, but it is idea. What used to be Raisin Sunday is now hard to tell with students where traditions come Raisin Weekend. In the ‘50s Bejants and from, whether they know what the traditions Bejantines would be invited to a tea party on mean, and whether they really are traditions, Raisin Sunday afternoon by their Senior Man not just excuses for eccentric or poor behaviour. or Woman. In order to show gratitude, Bejants A student myself, I discovered to my horror would bring a pound of raisins for their host, recently that some of the most anticipated thus giving the day its name. The emphasis events in the student calendar are not actually was very much on raisins and tea, but that has “traditions”, as we were all told in our first year. morphed through the years into wine and as There are many facets of student life which much alcohol as can be drunk. Raisin parties are spoon-fed to Freshers as traditions, but have been known to start as early as 10.00am have only been happening for the last 20 or (in fact during the four years I was in St. 30 years. The clearest example of a mutated Andrews it had been noted that some “families” student tradition is that of the Academic Family, started their celebrations on the Saturday), and and the events of Raisin Weekend. 50 years go on until either all the alcohol supplies have ago, there was no such thing as an academic been consumed, whereupon the celebrations family. Each arriving Fresher (called Bejants move to the pubs, or all the first years, and and Bejantines then) found themselves a perhaps the parents too, have passed out Senior Man or Woman, usually in the third year, or gone to bed. This does not have quite the

Photograph from the University collection wholesome feel of Raisin Sunday as it was in the 1950s, but it doesn’t stop there.

At some point in the 1970s Raisin Monday was introduced. This is the day when North Street is closed and all the first year students, dressed up in outlandish (and sometimes extremely creative) costumes by their Academic Mothers, and given Raisin Receipts with Latin inscriptions by their Academic Fathers to carry to a skip outside St. Salvator’s Chapel, meet in the Quadrangle to have the biggest outdoor foam fight imaginable. In the days running up to Raisin Weekend many shops around St. Andrews stock up on shaving foam in order to fuel the culmination, an event exclusively for first years. The point of this is somewhat questionable, and indeed many Freshers miss out, either through terror, hangover, or some mumbled excuse usually unacceptable to its recipient. There is no denying that it is extremely good fun, hangover or not, to cover your fellow first year students in shaving foam whilst happily destroying the view in one of the most beautiful parts of the University, but it remains a fact that in the extremely long history of St. Andrews University, this peculiar event is a completely new idea. Although it has become traditional, it cannot yet be described as an old student tradition.

The International Politics Association

by Max Frohnsdorff, immediate past-President The International Politics Association is a politically impartial student-run organisation that aims to provide the people of St. Andrews with access to those involved in the higher echelons of political affairs. We are united by being intrigued by all things political, and have succeeded in creating a world-class forum to connect you with the political world. Through the IPA, citizens of St. Andrews have met with leaders in Britain’s war against terror, dined with the Assistant Secretary-General of the United Nations, discussed issues of oligarchy with the Deputy Foreign Minister of Russia, and participated in an episode of the BBC’s flagship political show, Question Time. The IPA team is obsessively busied in deepening our community’s knowledge of current affairs and in bringing politics to life.

In our role as the interface that engages St. Andrews with the political world we have welcomed speakers ranging from former South African President, F.W De Klerk, to HRH Prince Turki Al-Faisal, the former head of the Saudi Arabian Intelligence Service and the Saudi Ambassador to Britain. Our reach is truly global.

After a very successful year last year, the IPA is in ongoing discussions with numerous and prominent speakers for this academic year. Already confirmed for this year’s programme are the Director of the Royal United Services Institute, the government’s chief source of military advice, and The President of the International Crisis Group, which runs the leading body that acts to advise governments on crisis management in conflict situations around the world. Be sure to check our website (below) as we are in the process of confirming dates for a number of other speakers and events, some of which, we are now able to confirm, will be in a league never before chartered by an organisation of our kind anywhere in the world.

We advertise our activities with a vigorous poster campaign and by emailing those of you who have subscribed to our emailing list; if you wish to be added to this list, please email us at: ipa@st-andrews.ac.uk.

If you do not have access to email, but would still like to be informed of our events in advance, please send a note with your name and telephone number to our postal address (below) and we will telephone you before each event. Our events usually take place in one of the lecture rooms or theatres in St. Salvator’s Quadrangle (North Street) in the evenings. Tickets can be purchased in advance, via our website, or on the door and cost £2 for members and £3 for nonmembers. Turnout regularly exceeds 250 people and in order to be sure of getting a seat you should book in advance. In cases where we expect turnout to be over 350, we will install an audiovisual link, so that overspill accommodation can be provided to cater for extra demand. People in overspill accommodation are still able to participate fully in the event and can ask questions of the speaker via videophone.

In the coming year the IPA hopes to encourage as many St. Andrews residents as possible to attend our presentations. This past year saw an increase in interest from the local community, and we would like to develop attendance from residents even further. We will endeavor to publicise our events well in advance through local publications and notice boards.

The opportunities and services that we provide are designed to benefit town residents just as much as students; although the IPA uses University facilities and is staffed by students we actively aim to encourage nonstudents to attend and contribute. The University is a fantastic thing to have on your doorstep; it boasts one of the finest International Relations departments in the country and offers world-class facilities that an average town of 16,000 people couldn’t normally hope to access. The IPA is one of those world-class facilities, and I commend you to exploit it to the full!

International Politics Association, C/O The Students Association, St. Mary’s Place, St. Andrews, KY16 9UZ. Do please write with any advice or suggestions. We update our website daily with all new and upcoming IPA information. www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~ipa

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TOWN/GOWN Second-year student (Semi), Phillip Stillman’s

Adventure in Mexico In the far southeast of North America, there is a place where the ground jolts towards the sky and mist smudges the borders between the earth and the clouds. Mountains, buried in rainforest and oozing oil, spill over the borders drawn by NAFTA and the Neoliberal Agenda, refusing to be conquered. In the far southeast of North America, there is a place where people are fighting to do the same, a place called Chiapas.

Chiapas is the southern-most state of the country of Mexico, a country that in 1994 actively entered into the North American Free Trade Agreement, or NAFTA. Mexican president Vicente Fox promised that NAFTA would bring Mexico into the first world, as did U.S. president Bill Clinton. What actually occurred was quite different. The Mexican economy was devastated; the peso fell to one tenth of its former value, eliciting a fifty billion U.S. dollar bail out from the U.S.A. and the IMF, the largest of its kind in the history of the world. NAFTA hurt everyone involved, from wealthy investors in the country’s seemingly-promising future, (who were eventually compensated by the bail out,) to rural farmers and indigenous communities, (who were not.) Not all were taken in by the promises of NAFTA however, and not all were surprised by its effects.

In the early 1980s, a young Philosophy professor by the name of Rafael Sebastián Guillén changed his name to Marcos, and along with five of his compatriots, ventured deep into the heart of the Lacondón rainforest. Their intention was to start a communist uprising in the spirit of the Cuban Revolution. The indigenous people of the Chiapan southeast are known historically for their rebellious tendencies, and so Marcos and his wily band of Mexico City intellectuals felt that it would be possible to use them to form a revolutionary vanguard.

What they did not count on was that the indigenous people had no interest in being used, least of all to fight for what they perceived to be a primarily academic cause rooted in ideology and unconnected with the reality of the people.

In addition, they were not ready to accept the idea that violence was the only way to achieve their liberation.

Beaten and humiliated, Marcos eventually met a healer known as ‘viejo (old) Antonio’. Old Antonio said that his people did not want to fight another man’s revolution, but that they did need to organize in order to defend themselves from the hired guns of the rancheros, (big ranch owners) who regularly took indigenous lands by force. Thus was born the Ejercito Zapatista Libertidad Nacional, (the Zapatista Army of National Liberation) or simply the EZLN. Then, on January 1st, 1994, the ground jolted towards the sky. Imploring the Red Cross to monitor the fighting and ensure that their own troops upheld the Geneva Convention, the Zapatistas launched an armed rebellion, taking five hundred ranches and six cities, including the tourist hub of San Cristóbol de las Casas. While there were deaths on both sides, not one civilian was harmed. Subcomandante Marcos is quoted as having said to a tourist, “I’m sorry for the inconvenience, but this is a revolution.” Fighting lasted

twelve days, and then the Zapatistas held a national vote asking the people of Mexico if they had popular support and if civil society wanted to see violent or peaceful means pursued. The vote came back overwhelmingly in favour both of the Zapatista cause and of peace, so a cease-fire was declared. (For a list of the EZLN’s demands, see their official web site at: www.ezlnaldf.org/ index.php.)

Many applauded the democratic nature of the Zapatista uprising,while many others condemned its use of violence. Some critics claimed that it was nothing more than just another warlord attempting to take power in Latin America. At the same time, supporters proclaimed it to be “the first post-communist revolution.” As for the Zapatistas themselves, what follows are the words of Subcomandante Marcos: “We began to train for self-defence, not how to attack. That’s how the Zapatista Army of National Liberation was born, as a self–defence force. But in 1992 the situation changed, that’s when the indigenous people of this region said, “we have already been struggling for 500 years, it is time to say ENOUGH!” They voted in their communities and the decision was made to go to war. They told me to start the war because I was the one in charge of military planning. I said that we couldn’t, that we weren’t ready, so I asked them for more time to organize. In January of 1993 they said that they would give me one year. “If you don’t do it in a year, we’ll do it without you,” they said. They told me the latest date was December 31st, 1993. Yes, NAFTA is a death sentence for indigenous people, NAFTA sets up competition among farmers, and look at this rocky land we have here. How can we compete with the land in California or in Canada? So the people of Chiapas, as well as the people of Oaxaca, Vera Cruz, Quintana Roo, Guerrero and Sonora, were the sacrificial lambs of NAFTA. Subcomandante Insurgente Marcos, Zapatista Army of National Liberation, Mountains of the Mexican Southeast, Chiapas, Mexico.”

Wanting to discover the truth for myself, I travelled to the address that the above quote ends with. The cities taken by the Zapatistas had been retaken almost instantly, but the ranches had not. Land that once served for grazing cattle to be sold up north now flourished with corn, schools, health clinics and homes. The Zapatista towns were functional, clean and had banned alcohol, while towns that remained loyal to the government in exchange for aid were filthy and full of drunken men and intimidated women. Coming to Chiapas as a seeker of truth, I left as a Zapatista supporter.

The vote came back overwhelmingly in favour both of the Zapatista cause and of peace

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TOWN/GOWN Final-year Undergraduate student Hauke Hasler describes his

Eight Weeks of Neutrino Physics Every St. Andrews student knows that three and a half months of Summer Vacation are just too long! And so, being a Physics student, I searched for some subject-related employment for that time, which I found in Hamburg at DESY (Deutsches Electonen-Synchrotron), Europe’s second biggest particle accelerator. Never having done much Atomic Physics, I was less than confident about this summer project but fortunately, these worries soon proved wrong and I had a great time in Hamburg.

The research group I was allocated to consisted mainly of one professor, Dr Raoul Zimmermann, and his PHD student, who were desperately trying to keep up with their tight time schedule.

It is vitally important for their work to be finished on time because the group is part of a larger collaboration, the so-called OPERA (Oscillation Project with emulsion Tracking Apparatus) experiment, which is run to examine the possibility of neutrino oscillations. Observations show that the amount of Ï-neutrinos found in cosmic radiation is significantly smaller than theory predicts. One possible explanation for this is that µ-neutrinos can turn into T-neutrinos and actually oscillate between the two states. The OPERA experiment sets out to observe these oscillations by sending a beam of µ-neutrinos, generated at CERN in Geneva, across a distance of 730km to Gran Sasso in Italy, where this beam will be scanned for tau neutrino appearance. Since neutrinos are of subatomic size and uncharged, they are extremely difficult to detect. In fact, most particles from cosmic radiation pass right through the earth without

‘seeing’ it. It is however possible to detect a group of heavier particles, the so-called muons, which are likely to be created in interactions involving neutrinos. Still, the detector arrangement is very complicated and the final setup would fill a large gymnasium.

The Hamburg group’s part in the process is to design, build and test one part of the multistage detector, namely a module of gas-filled drift tubes that can identify muons and determine the sign of their charge. The arrangement of these tubes in four layers allows for an exact path reconstruction. Since each tube is 8 meters long and made of thin aluminium, the main construction problem is to ensure the mechanical robustness of the high precision apparatus.

Once a sufficiently large number of test modules are built, they need to be tested for construction errors or weaknesses, such as sensitivity to high voltages or changes in temperature and humidity. Mass production is scheduled to start in November this year on the DESY grounds and the total number of ten thousand tubes will take about a year to build. All detector modules and the necessary electronic equipment will then be shipped to their final destination north of Rome. The test modules are destined to remain in Hamburg to become part of a practical for Hamburg students.

Further information: http://operaweb.web.cern.ch/Operaweb/ index.shtml http://www-opera.desy.de/

Macgregor Auctions Auctioneers & Valuators

Tel: (01334) 472431

Est 1857

56 LARGO ROAD ST ANDREWS FIFE KY16 8RP

Fortnightly auctions held over Thursday and Friday Bi-monthly Antique and Collectors’ Sales Auction advice free of charge For all advice, please contact:Ian or Sandra Urie Macgregor Auctions, 56 Largo Road, St Andrews Tel: 01334 472431 Fax: 01334 479606 Websites: www.scotlandstreasures.co.uk www.antiques-scotland.co.uk

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SHOPS & SERVICES Julia & George Young invite us to

Celebrate!

St Andrews Pottery Shop has come of age!

2004 sees the 21st birthday of the town’s only working pottery.

In 1983 Julia Young, with her husband, George, and two sons, returned to her “alma mater” to set up a small pottery workshop and shop in Church Square behind the Holy Trinity Church. George and Julia had given up careers in teaching to start the pottery venture in the derelict former plumber’s yard. The building, although derelict in 1983, had had a varied and interesting history. It had formed part of the original fire station in the town and you can still see the cast iron pillars which held up the huge water tank from which water was drawn in case of fire! Later it had been a furniture store and a coffin-makers workshop. The Youngs actually inherited a coffin when they bought the property!

George had been a part-time potter in the Borders for a couple of years before coming to St Andrews, but pottery production was put on the back burner for a year while he became a brickie’s labourer assisted by well-known local lads, Angus Mutch and Scott Bechelli, whom he plucked from the Job Centre! Ann Lightwood, another local potter, whose workshop in Lower Largo had burned down, joined forces with George and Julia and after nine months Church Square Ceramics was born! In 1983 the building which now houses the Doll’s House Restaurant was home to the Hoods’ D.I.Y. Shop and as they decanted to their present location at the far end of South Street they donated to

the Youngs’ project loads of wood, nails and flooring! As luck would have it, at around the same time Fisher and Donaldson were also moving premises in Church Street and were kind enough to give the Youngs all their old shop fittings, and for many years some of the pots at Church Square Ceramics were stored on a shelf which bore the designation “Belgian Biscuits!”

Eventually, in July 1984, the pottery shop was ready to open its doors to the public.

George had taken a month off from working on site to make pots to fill the little shop.

Graduation was reckoned to be a good time to open the doors of 4, Church Square to the now curious public! George, Julia and Ann brushed off the plaster dust and welcomed people to Church Square Ceramics. So busy were they that, after a week, there were hardly any pots left to sell!!

For the first few years the staff, made up of friends and family, worked for nothing, and members of the public could watch George throwing pots behind a glass screen. As the years have gone by, business has grown from strength to strength; Ann Lightwood moved to her own workshop in South Street; the shop has expanded; the name has changed to The St Andrews Pottery Shop and the Youngs now pay their staff!

The latest, and probably the last, move in the evolution of The St Andrews Pottery

G. MURRAY MITCHELL. SON 110 MARKET STREET ST. ANDREWS Suppliers of top quality beef and lamb from our own farm. Pork is also sourced locally.

happened a few years ago when George and Julia sold the upstairs part of the property at 4, Church Square to Fife Council to enable the town library to expand. The pots are now made in a delightful workshop/studio beside the Youngs’ home in Blebo Craigs, but they are still sold in the shop in Church Square. The workshop in Blebo is where George holds his highly popular pottery classes – details at the shop.

Twenty-one years on, some loyal customers are also celebrating their 2Ist year of buying George’ s pots, and the St Andrews Pottery has finally caught up with the 21st Century by launching a website, www.standrewspottery.co.uk

We would like to wish all our customers a Merry Christmas & Best Wishes for the New Year

Steak pies, sausage rolls, mince pies etc are made fresh daily in our own bakehouse. Also made on the premises are haggis and black and white puddings which are becoming more and more popular and increasingly are finding their way throughout the entire country.

Fresh turkeys will be available at CHRISTMAS time at competitive prices together with fresh geese, ducks, chickens, pheasants and partridges: The turkeys are reared on a Fife farm which has supplied us for quite a number of years. Don’t delay. Order your turkeys now and don’t be disappointed.

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Whilst having your shoes repaired by Steven, look through the wide selection of purses, wallets and leather belts. Wander through to the Music Shop and browse through the extensive range of CDs and musical stock. Meander upstairs and let Reid’s Computers give your PC a health check, browse through the stock or have a quick surf of the Internet. What a relaxing way to shop, and all under one roof at 151 South Street, St.Andrews.

SHOPS & SERVICES

ETNA: The Power of the Earth John Ferguson shares a momentous journey Leaving St. Andrews for the summer is an idea that has many people puzzled. But leaving for the cultural Mecca that is Sicily during a month of adventure seemed too good an opportunity to turn down. As the owner of the crystal and gemstone shop, Psyche’s Garden, in St. Andrews, I was enthused by the geology of this volcanic island and to try and make my way to the summit of the active mountain at its centre – Etna. Known to the locals as ‘Miss Etna‘, and referred to in such tales as Homer’s ‘Odyssey‘, it is Europe’s only active volcano and it last erupted in 2003. Standing 3000 meters above the sea it is a breathtaking sight and is the backdrop to many spectacular views of the Sicilian coast and mountains.

The ascent to the base camp on Mount Etna is made by road and goes from the lowland villages, which lead a precarious existence, to the magnificent forests that have sprouted due to the ash-rich soil. Above this desert vegetation lies the stunning area of dried lava flows, creating wonderful shapes and troughs through what looks like a fantasy landscape of black and charred remains.

At the end of the winding roads through this midsection of the volcano lies the base camp.

From here you can view the devastated remains of the tourist industry that had built up previously on the mountainside. An eruption in ‘96 completely destroyed what was a thriving area of hotels, restaurants and gift shops. The cable car system now lies under a pile of ash and lava, with only its cable line and the tops of the cars to show its previous existence.

From base camp it is still another 1,000 meters to the top and it’s on to one of the giant moon buggies that can navigate such unusual terrain. Bouncing along on the giant tyres the scenery is breathtaking, as vegetation of any kind disappears and the landscape becomes black and charred as far as the eye can see.

Above this level the mist descends and everything beneath is forgotten as you become absorbed in the uniqueness of the environment.

The mist dissipates as quickly as it arrives and you are left in what feels like another world.

Twelve smaller craters lead up to four larger vents and then the spectacular peak, creating a lunar effect and truly awesome panoramic views in every direction.

The thermal energy produced is evident as white smoke cascades from the vents and the heat underfoot is incredible, causing the rubber on the base of my own rubber shoes to start melting! Now on foot, and allowed to

trek round the many vents, I found my own personal interest sparked by the spectacular mineral deposits that have been expelled during the eruptions. Amazing streaks of fluorescent yellow, red, and orange, become evident as you discover natural sulphur crystals and iron ores.

Giant lumps of lava, basalt and semi-precious stones like hematite and Obsidian add to the interest for a crystal and mineral retailer like myself.

Volcanic mineral deposits, and the crystals produced by these areas, have fascinated me ever since becoming absorbed in the world of gemstones and mineralogy several years ago as proprietor of Scotland’s premier crystal retailer, Psyche’s Garden. A hobby of mine since childhood, it has grown into a passion that I can now share with the many friends and acquaintances I have made over the years through my business. Crystal healers, Reiki Practitioners, Magicians and Psychics all visit me to enhance their collection and knowledge

of the mineral kingdom. Many of these holistic people use volcanic minerals in their various pursuits. Obsidian, the volcanic glass, is used for scrying (a form of divining), and is believed in many cultures to aid the grieving process.

Hematite, an iron ore, has been used for centuries by alchemists and lay person alike to aid blood disorders and reduce anxiety and stress. Geodes of Amethyst, Quartz or Agate are commonly formed during thermal activity in volcanic regions and can produce some of the most spectacular sights that Mother Nature can develop. Formed over periods of 5 to 6 million years these crystals resonate at very high frequencies and are natural ionisers, making them extremely therapeutic to have around the home. To see the power that produces such magnificent formations is truly awesome.

And to anyone interested in crystals I would recommend that at some point in your life you visit one of these wondrous regions of our planet and experience the power of Mother Earth.

Photos by the author

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SHOPS & SERVICES

Grape Scots!

Following in the footsteps of many Scots before them, Syd & Roberta Littleford left Scotland in 1995 to start a new life in Australia. The trans-Pacific move resulted from an invitation by The West Australian Government to locate an International Division of Syd’s Scottish Oil Engineering Company, PES, in Perth, WA. The Littlefords soon realised fate was playing a part when they and their 3-month old son Angus stepped onto the Quantas flight bound for Australia on St.Andrew’s Day 1995 and the house they bought in an area called Brigadoon had been previously owned by a cousin of The Duke of Montrose! Enjoying the Australian casual way of life, the Littleford family took every opportunity to travel within Australia enjoying its exquisite environment, people, wildlife, and wine! While visiting vineyards and wineries little did they know that their romantic dream of owning one of their very own was just around the corner. After four years PES was bought out by the oil giant Halliburton allowing Syd and his two other business partners to develop other interests. Dreamtime….

During a visit to the Southern Region of Western Australia, Syd & Roberta bought a vineyard in an area called Denmark. Again, fate was at hand, the vineyard had a river flowing through the middle called Scotsdale Brook. How could they refuse? The 3 hectare vineyard rests on either side, and on top of a hill, aptly called Golden Hill as it receives lashings of sunshine, overlooking 27 hectares of Karri Forrest and orchards, 350 miles South of Perth. The initial plantings of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Shiraz, was chosen by WA wine guru Michael Goundry in 1985. Its vine stock was excellent and its wine had won many gold and silver medals at various wine shows throughout Australia in the preceding years. However, the Perth businessmen owners were finding the upkeep of the vineyard too difficult due to their location; therefore, in 2000, Littleford Estate was born.

During the first year Syd spent most of his time at the vineyard, while Roberta, a clinical scientist, and Angus, stayed in Perth, but managed to get their hands dirty at every available opportunity. The learning curve was steep, but not as steep as Golden Hill during picking! The debut vintage in April 2001 was hand picked by the Littleford family and friends who had booked their holidays especially for the event. After the first vintage the vineyard underwent massive re-organisation, with every second row of established vine removed, thereby allowing easier access, more sunlight and fresh sea air into the vines, and a planting programme of established and new varieties; Merlot and Cabernet Franc, doubling the area under vine. The variable topography and cool Mediterranean microclimates of Littleford Estate ensure that each variety is nestled in its own niche environment. The vine management programme employed at the vineyard resulted from extensive research, reading, talking and listening to many experts and tasting the fruits of others’ labour.

The Littlefords realise that wine drinkers have become more sophisticated, partly due to an increase of choice in the market and personal experimentation, so their needs are more complex. Littleford Estate’s philosophy is to produce top quality grapes – therefore premium wine – driven by their unique fruit flavours which will be appreciated by both the wine novice and the connoisseur.

During the many trips home on business and visiting family and friends it was clearly evident to the Littlefords that there was a lack of West Australian wine on the merchants’ shelves here.

West Australian Wines are generally less well known than the bigger East Australian Wines. There are many reasons, but the main one is related to size. Many of the WA vineyards are boutique and as such, their produce is sold solely at the cellar door and is not exported. Littleford Estate has taken the unique wine business decision to export exclusively to Scotland via their importation company owned and operated by themselves. This allows them to have 100% control of the complete process from grape and wine quality to the price the customer pays.

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Littleford Estate is extremely fortunate to have John Wade as their wine maker, one of Australia’s finest. John’s winemaking experience is international and world-renowned and he was one of the co-founders of Howard Park, the owners of the brand Mad Fish. The marketing of Littleford Estate was commenced prior to any wine production, with visits of the pending Littleford Estate wine varieties to wine merchants, restaurants and hotels. This Graeme Scott and Kim Wilde method of introduction allowed the brand name to be known prior to samples arriving for appraisal. The debut and subsequent vintages have been sampled by Australian wine judges and local wine merchants and restaurateurs and have been applauded.

In 2003 The Littlefords decided to base their wine importation business in St.Andrews. The town was selected because of the excellent local interest in their wines plus its locality near major cities allowing for international exportation. Roberta currently splits her time marketing and selling the wines while running Five Pilmour Place Guesthouse, while Syd spends most of his time at the vineyard.

The 2004 Dundee Flower and Food Festival Lord Provost Lunch heralded the Scottish launch of Littleford Estate (see picture). Over 140 local businessmen and women were treated to a biographical talk by Syd while tasting the 2001 Riesling, Unwooded Chardonnay and Shiraz. Mr Gordon Ramsay, renowned Scottish Chef, invited to the show to perform his culinary skills, was presented with a sample of Littleford Estate 2001 Shiraz for his personnel consumption while Ms Kim Wilde preferred to consume some at the Scott’s Wine World Stand with owner Mr. Graeme Scott!

For the first time Littleford Estate will be part of the Luxury Scottish Hampers produced by local wine merchants Scott’s Wine World and Chesters of St. Andrews.

Littleford Estate produce can be purchased via Littleford Estate.com or 01334 478665 or through Scott’s Wine World 01334 850932 Gordon Ramsay

SHOPS & SERVICES

Chesters of St Andrews

Purveyors of Scottish Fine Foods Chesters of St Andrews have been producing, sourcing and supplying some of Scotland’s finest quality fare since 2002.

In this short time, our range of products has grown substantially, to the extent that two new brands have now been created – St Andrews Hampers and The St Andrews Sweet Company.

Our own 300-acre farm produces the highest quality ingredients, supplied to companies such as Marks & Spencer and McCain’s.

Our barley is distributed throughout Scotland and ends up in many of the world’s foremost whiskies.

We constantly strive to ‘Deliver the Difference’ by only providing the best possible quality products.

Our customers include retailers, corporate, hotels and private individuals including: The National Trust for Scotland Scottish Rugby Union Arran Brewery The Scottish Parliament Famous Grouse The Scottish Tourist Board St Andrews Golf Hotel St Andrews Bay Golf Resort Earlier this year, we were asked to send boxes of our home-grown, hand-cooked Haggis crisps to America for a high profile Scottish Wedding. And only recently, top chef, Gordon Ramsay left a Scottish event with several packets of these in his hands.

Our promise is to provide only the best quality and goodness and reflect all that is good in the Scottish food industry.

Jackie Raeside Contact: sales@chestersofstandrews.co.uk (please quote ref SAIF7)

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SHOPS & SERVICES Mrs. Margaret Wilson, of J. Wilson & Son, 169 South Street, St. Andrews, kindly gave permission to reproduce this article from her family’s archive. As far as I know, the sole remaining original publication is in the National Library of Scotland. It opens a fascinating window into our past, and the accompanying photograph gives an idea of how St. Andrews looked around the time the article appeared. Happily, the shop is still with us today, and long may it continue to thrive!

Mr John Wilson, Furnishing and General Ironmonger, Iron, Oil and Colour Merchant, Salt Importer.

Mill House 16th??

169 and 171 South Street, St Andrews.

Taken from A Descriptive Account of the Kingdom of Fife, illustrated.

Published by W.T.Pike & Co (London & Brighton) 1895 It is from another point of view than a purely industrial and commercial one that most visitors regard St. Andrews. It is to its social status, its prominence as a fashionable resort, and its position in the midst of a good hunting, fishing, shooting and golfing country that it owes its popularity; but there are, nevertheless, many businesses which are thoroughly representative of the various interests in which they are carried on. This is essential to the welfare of the town, as with a population largely composed of the higher classes of the community, the existence of first-class businesses is a matter of the utmost importance.

With such an establishment as that carried on by Mr John Wilson in their midst, the inhabitants are well supplied with every requisite in the furnishing and general ironmongery trade. The business in question was founded in1869, and thus for nearly a quarter of a century it has maintained a leading position among the chief houses in the country. The premises are very extensive, comprising two double-fronted shops, at 169 and 171 South Street. There are, therefore, four windows at disposal for the purposes of display; and here will be found, set out in tasteful and attractive arrangement, samples of many of the goods dealt in. The interior of the establishment also affords ample scope for the display of goods. There is communication between the two shops, and on all hands are seen evidence of the high-class trade done.

Mr Wilson makes a special feature of kitchen ranges, and his practical knowledge of the trade is evidenced by the patents he has taken out for open and close fire ranges. The “Simplex” range, although not his own make, is after his idea, and is made a leading line of the department. It is the most successful convertible range in the market, and can be used at discretion, either as an open or close range, being easily converted by the most inexperienced person. It is also a cure for smoky chimneys, and acts as a ventilator to the kitchen.

A staff of men is kept, who build and fit kitchen ranges to order, with or withour hot-water connections to the bathroom. We must also mention the display of dining-room, drawing-room, and other grates, hand-painted, majolica and printed hearths, tiles, etc. These goods are in great variety, and being rich in design, and of sound material, they are caculated to give satisfaction to the best class of customers. In the shop reserved for the furnishing ironmongery (No 171) will be found an almost unique selection of electro-plated goods, table and pocket cutlery, etc. These are of a superior order, and special attention may be directed to the stock of best Sheffield cutlery.

These goods are finished in a special manner, so that the ivory handle is not discoloured, and the knives are securely fixed, so as to resist the action of boiling water.

Iron and brass bedsteads of new design and well-finished make are on hand, as also are hair, wool and straw mattresses. Baths, perambulators, washing and wringing machines, and other domestic appliances, form an important department, the leading manufacturers being in each case represented. The newest designs in oil lamps are on hand, and we noticed some very highclass goods of this kind, mounted on ornamental ironwork frames and stands.

Milner’s and Perry’s fire and thief-proof safes, in various sizes, are in stock, while the assortment of kitchen utensils is of the most complete character. An important department is that for farm implements and garden requisites, and in the same category are mechanical tools of all kinds – in this last connection Mr Wilson being the sole agent here for Sorby and Son’s wellknown goods.

All kinds of sporting materials are on hand, guns by known makers, gunpowders, patent chilled shot, cartridges, game bags, fishing-rods, reels, lines, flies, and all sorts of tackle for loch and river fishing, making a selection from which the most exacting sportsman may well supply his wants. The workshops at the rear of the place are occupied by a competent staff of smiths and general repairers, who execute all orders in their department in a prompt and thorough manner.

Mr Wilson personally conducts his business, and to his able and enterprising proprietorship is due the succes which had attended it. It should have been mentioned before that he imports salt direct from Middlesborough and the south of England, and in the salt store are upwards of 90 tons for farm and household use. Rock salt for cattle is also supplied in large quantities.

Mr Wilson is an elder of the Established Church and a prominent member to the Thistle Golf Club, and in his business and semi-public capacity has gained the respect of all with whom he comes in contact.

The Three B’s Bedding Bits & Bobs 47-49 Kinnessburn Road, St Andrews, KY16 8AD Phone 01334 470700 Photocopying 5p per sheet A selection of haberdashery & wool Bedding at good prices with 10% discount for students, hotels and B&Bs Dance wear now in stock – shoes and outfits Also in store: Large range of new jewellery & candles, cards, fancy goods, batteries, tools, crystal, etc.

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South Street, 1896. Photograph courtesy of The St Andrews Preservation Trust Museum.

SHOPS & SERVICES Graeme Cockburn advises on

Hearing Loss – The Basics Did you know that one in five people over the age of 55 has a hearing loss which would benefit from a hearing instrument?

What causes loss of hearing?

There are many possible causes of hearing loss – natural deterioration, infection in the middle or inner ear, prolonged exposure to excessive noise, head injury, diabetes, measles, rubella, and many other childhood diseases are some examples.

Surely I would know if I had a hearing loss?

The majority of types of hearing loss are the result of many years’ deterioration, and the sufferer often has little or no tangible evidence of a loss at all. In many cases it is the sufferer’s family and friends who initially notice the loss – from frequently needing to repeat themselves in conversation, to noticing that the television is louder.

What can be done?

Although most hearing losses are permanent, the majority can be substantially improved by the fitting of a correctly prescribed hearing instrument using the latest digital technology. That, however, is not all there is to it. Digital instruments can be reprogrammed to accommodate any change in hearing loss, thus extending the life expectancy of the instrument. Therefore, the importance of having a local hearing aid dispenser cannot be over-emphasised, as he/she will provide the necessary continuity of service and care.

How could I find out if I had a hearing loss?

If you think you may have a hearing loss, make an appointment with your GP who may then refer you to an ENT Specialist; or visit your local registered hearing aid dispenser to have your hearing tested – a straightforward low-cost procedure which takes about 30 minutes, with no obligation or pressure to proceed.

Graeme Cockburn is enjoying living and working in the town, and he offers a high quality, personal service, with the back-up of leading hearing instrument manufacturers. To arrange a convenient home visit, call 07775 921692. He is also available, by appointment only, within Govan Optometrists, 83 South Street, St. Andrews, telephone: 01334 474558.

Alice Curteis is actively promoting Fairtrade

Two Down, Three To Go; Fairtrade Town coming soon!

During the next year St. Andrews is going to become a Fairtrade Town. This will make the town one of 70 or so throughout the UK committing themselves to making the world a fairer place by promoting Fairtrade in their shops, cafés, churches, schools, and so on.

Other Scottish Fairtrade Towns and Cities include Aberdeen, Aberfeldy, Burntisland, Dundee, Edinburgh, Linlithgow, Paisley, Stirling and Strathaven. UK-wide there are 175 more towns, cities, villages, boroughs and islands working towards Fairtrade status.

The campaign to get Fairtrade status here was officially launched on September 8th when Kevin Dunion, Scottish Information Commissioner, visited Alldays in St. Andrews and raised a glass of Fairtrade wine with its manager, Chris Donaghy, and other members of the campaign team. A couple of weeks later, 11 shops and cafés joined in a Fairtrade Tasting Day, hosting coffee, tea, chocolate, and wine tasting events, which attracted crowds of people – especially for the wine! So things are gathering pace and two of the five criteria which we need to fulfil have already been achieved:

Coffee grower in Miraflor

St Andrews Community Council has given the campaign its blessing and passed a resolution to support the initiative; and there are already 20 shops, cafés and churches in the town where you can buy Fairtrade goods (see below for details). The next stage is to get a number of groups to use Fairtrade products at their regular breaks or meetings. If your church, school, club, committee or workplace does this, please tell me so that I can add you to the list. The University will also hopefully be a Fairtrade University soon; the student One World Society is working on a parallel campaign, the two campaigns working together as much as possible.

Fairtrade encompasses goods such as coffee, tea, chocolate, wine and bananas, which are produced in developing countries. All too often the producers are paid so little for their labour and their produce that they are unable to provide the basics of life for their families.

Fairtrade ensures that products are traded at prices which, regardless of world commodity prices, give the producer a living wage, plus a ‘social premium’, which is used to develop community projects. The Fairtrade Labelling Organisation monitors trade, and gives the FAIRTRADE Mark to items whose production fulfils the organisation’s criteria.

Earlier this year I visited a coffee-growing area called Miraflor, in Nicaragua, where some of the coffee is sold into the Fairtrade market.

Not only do the growers of this coffee get paid enough to buy food and clothing and medicine for their families, and send the children to school, but the Fairtrade buyers actually pay for the coffee beans at the point of sale. This sounds quite normal until you hear that the other (non-Fairtrade) buyers take the coffee beans away, and only when they have sold them on do the growers get paid, weeks and sometimes months later, leaving the poorest, most vulnerable members of the coffee supply chain to suffer most from the uncertainties of the world coffee market. There is no welfare

provision and massive unemployment in Nicaragua. If you can’t grow your own food, or earn enough regular money, you and your family go Sandy Milne of Fisher & without.

Donaldson, sampling a The reason Fairtrade goodie! that not all the coffee from Miraflor is fairly traded is that the market for Fairtrade coffee, although it is growing, needs to grow more to allow all the farmers there to benefit from the fairer conditions. This is where the Fairtrade Towns Initiative comes in, by encouraging populations of whole towns and cities to realise that they can make a difference by switching the brand of coffee, tea, and many other things they buy routinely, and that these items are widely available. As demand for fairly traded goods increases, so too does the chance for producers to avoid abject poverty.

Please note that the Fairtrade movement doesn’t conflict with the interests of local producers or businesses. First of all, most of the products involved are food items from developing countries; in other words they are tropical produce. Secondly the Fairtrade Town Initiative never requires that Fairtrade goods should be supplied to the exclusion of other goods.

The campaign team is always pleased to hear from people who are prepared to join in with planning and events. We’re hoping to make a big splash during Fairtrade Fortnight in March, and we’ll need lots of support.

For further information see the Fairtrade Foundation website www.fairtrade.org.uk/towns For a list of shops in St. Andrews already selling Fairtrade products, please contact Alice Curteis, tel: 01334 473648, email alice.curteis@tiscali.co.uk

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SHOPS & SERVICES Bruce Babington introduces

St Andrews Osteopaths & Body Ecosse Almost everyone experiences the odd twinge in their lower back or shoulder or has the occasional sleepless night through pain, but there never seems to be much that a GP can offer in these circumstances. True, things like back and joint stiffness and pain can be treated with surgery and stress, anxiety and depression with a course of medication, but today more and more people seem to be searching for alternatives.

Here in St. Andrews we are lucky enough to have a number of complementary therapies brought together under one roof in the form of a multi-disciplinary clinic. ‘St. Andrews Osteopaths & Body Ecosse’ at 136 South Street provides the ultimate treatment service for a huge range of problems from minor complaints to acute and serious injury. The clinic specialises in sports and work related injury. Osteopath Bruce Babington (MSc, BSc Hons Ost, PG Dip, PG Cert) is an honorary lecturer at the University of St. Andrews Medical School and has a special interest in the biomechanics of the foot and knee and lower back problems. His colleague Sarah Tongue (RGN, BSc Hons) trained as a nurse and has complemented her osteopathic qualification with a course in acupuncture. James MacIvor recently joined the team as an associate after graduating from osteopathic training in London.

Bruce and Sarah originally formed ‘St Andrews Osteopaths’ in 1998 with the aim of providing a holistic approach to health, believing that problems in the body are linked and can be treated most effectively via a patient-specific programme.

Osteopathy is a fully registered therapy that is rapidly becoming more recognised within the medical profession. It has been around for over a hundred years but was made a self-regulating and protected profession in 1993. Osteopathic treatment involves a wide variety of techniques from simple massage and stretching to the more precise manipulation of the joints of the body aimed at improving segmental health and function. Osteopaths are fully trained to take detailed case histories and diagnose disease and ill health similar to doctors and will only treat patients if it is deemed safe to do so.

Osteopaths treat a wide range of disorders – not just backs! These can range from simple joint and muscular strains through to complex rehabilitation of trauma and disease. Other areas which osteopathic treatment can help include arthritis, pregnancy-related problems, nerve entrapment, headaches, breathing disorders, glue ear, developmental growth problems – the list is endless.

So you decide to do something about that twinge in your back, or that occasional headache that won’t go away, and you take the plunge and choose osteopathy, what happens next? At your first appointment, and after the initial history taking, diagnosis and examination, a treatment plan will be discussed to ensure that you understand the reasons for your symptoms and the best course of action to take.

These days we seem to be too willing to take a pill to relieve a pain without fully understanding why that pain is there in the first place. Perhaps if we knew more about our problems we could prevent them instead of simply covering them up with palliatives. In the case of young children, for example, there might be another answer as to why ailments such as colic, restlessness, and glue ear occur, with non-toxic natural treatments available instead of a course of drugs from the doctor.

All this said, there is nothing ‘flakey’ or ‘new age’ about osteopathy. The treatment techniques are both ancient and scientific and should any problem prove to be inappropriate for osteopathic treatment, any reputable registered osteopath would not hesitate to refer their patient to a doctor or specialist. At ‘St Andrews Osteopaths & Body Ecosse’ you might not have to go far to find an alternative treatment. The clinic offers a diverse list of therapies, some of which are listed below.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Biomechanical analysis Food intolerance testing Osteoporosis testing Homeopathy Acupuncture Clinical Aromatherapy LaStone Therapy Psychotherapy Nutritional advice

For more information on Osteopathy or any of the above therapies, or to make an appointment call : 01334 477000 Office Hours : Mon – Fri, 9.00 – 6.00 Email: standrews.osteopaths@virgin.net

Here Susan Keracher tells the story of another long-established family business, so vital for St. Andrews.

Andrew Keracher, fish merchant, game dealer & poulterer,

who established his business at 108 Market Street in 1925. Born in Dundee, ‘Auld’ Keracher had originally set up in Cupar, then left for a life in Canada with his family, returning to St. Andrews following the death of his wife and elder son. His other son, David, continued with the business after Andrew died in 1939.

The workforce at this time was called up for the armed forces, and like other businesses during the War, Keracher’s staff consisted mainly of women, produce was rationed and prices were controlled by the Government. The fish available was caught locally, with fresh supplies delivered every day, although the choice was limited to haddock, cod, flounders, and occasionally halibut.

David died suddenly in 1942 and the business was carried on by his widow, Barbara, who knew very little about the fish business.

Through necessity, and with the support of other merchants, especially her neighbour Murray Mitchell (butcher), Barbara succeeded and was eventually joined by her sons Andy and Tom and daughter Pat. Andy’s untimely death from Leukemia in 1952, resulted in Tom taking over the family business until his retirement in 1992.

The increasing demand for seafood came from the thriving tourist market in the summer and the student population during term times. Tom recalls his daily visits to the fish market at Pittenweem throughout the ‘50s and ‘60s, “The market was dependent on the tides, so if the market was an afternoon one, it meant that we would work late into the night. Nobody got to go home until the fish was processed and refrigerated.”

The fish trade at that time was labour intensive. Supplies were landed straight on to the windswept quayside until the FMA completed the covered market place. When transported back to the shop, the fish was skinned and filleted by skilled workers. Consumer taste was quite conservative at that time with haddock, sole, cod, salt herring and salt cod available most of the year. There was a short season for herring and wild Tay salmon, which was sent down by train from Perth. Shellfish was supplied by the local St. Andrews fishermen.

All supplies were ultimately dependent upon the weather – no fish meant no income – so Tom introduced frozen goods, canned foods, and cooked chicken freshly roasted in the front shop. A smoke-house was built on site also and smoked haddock, finnan and salmon became popular.

At this time Keracher was one of five fish merchants in town, the others being Morris, Gordon, Evans and, for a short time, Macfisheries.

14

Peter and James Keracher joined their father in the business in the late1970s.

Willie Allan, David Keracher, Alan Mitchell Peter’s remit was the and Tom Docherty. The photograph front shop and James’ was taken around 1933. in processing. At this time Gordon Kirk was driving down to Pittenweem market on a daily basis, buying a wide range of fish which continued to be processed in the Market Street premises.

By the early 1980s the range of fish on offer expanded to include squid, monkfish, plaice, red mullet, coley and ling. Unfortunately, the market at Pittenweem started to decline in the late ‘80s and Peter was forced to drive through to the Glasgow fish market for supplies. “This opened up a window of opportunities for us at the time, and we began to source herring, seatrout and shellfish from the west coast and imported exotics, such as tuna, swordfish and red snapper from the English markets.”

An important development for Keracher’s was the opening of their Perth shop in 1989. Peter explains, “Now we had a branch, which was on the main supply route between the markets in the south and those in the north. No more early mornings driving to Glasgow, but more importantly, from Perth we were able to supply the St. Andrews shop with all its needs.”

In 1992 the business expanded further to incorporate a wholesale unit in Perth, where new electronically controlled kilns are producing a wide range of smoked produce including organic smoked salmon. Today fish is brought in daily from Shetland and Orkney in the north; Aberdeen in the east; Lewis and Skye in the west; Hull, Grimsby, Cornwall and London in the south.

Next year the business will celebrate its 80th year and its future would seem to be guaranteed with Mark and Steven, the 5th generation, following in the family tradition.

SHOPS & SERVICES Carole Sinclair talked to Flora Selwyn about the job she loves.

Postwoman

Royal Mail has recently come under a lot of criticism, one way and another. As someone who has never found anything to complain about, and with Christmas looming, I thought I would find out more about what the local postie actually does. I was amazed!

The sorting office on Largo Road is the first surprise. It is huge inside, yet there is a palpable air of quiet efficiency, none of the frantic rushing around you’d imagine from some of the films you might have seen.

Carole is “on the floor and ready to start work” at 5.00am. Her first task is to sort the mail. Letters are in boxes on the “yorkies”, a kind of cage on wheels. Packets are in “drop bags”, the kind that used to be sewn by prisoners in the jails, but which are now made of nylon in factories. There are “troughs” in which packets, A4 letters, magazines etc. are put. Carole and her colleagues sort all the mail for the entire town, then they prepare their individual walks, which means putting all mail in order for their own delivery. Everyone is back on the sorting at 6.00am as the second “feed” – not food! – arrives mainly from more distant parts of the country, such as Wales etc.

All special delivery post is sorted separately by the PHG, the Postperson Higher Grade, who processes it. At 8.00am at the very latest, Carole is out on the road delivering to all her addresses.

Each postie carries a maximum of 16k of mail at a time. This day Carole told me, “I had five today, all weighing 16k each. I don’t think I had one under”. To cope with such loads Royal Mail has set up “pouches”, those grey metal boxes on posts that appeared in the town recently. Drivers take mail bags to these for the postie to collect. Carole said that the amount of mail varies with the seasons – it is noticeably more when the students are here.

Carole is a “floater”. She explained that the staff work in teams of five. The working week is five days, Monday to Saturday. That means a day off mid-week for every person. The

floater fills the gap in the free day. Carole‘s week, therefore, starts on a different day each time. To cover annual leave there are also reserve posties.

I asked Carole what she and her colleagues thought about the change to one delivery a day.

“It’s probably psychological,” she replied, “but we do feel the mail’s got heavier! It’s made a lot of sense, though, to have one delivery, because basically there was so little mail coming through the system for the second delivery.” At present there are two types of special delivery on offer, the first being more expensive, but guaranteeing next day delivery by 9.00am, the second by 12 noon the next day. But of course, “there’s always someone who wants to find fault”, no matter what is done.

We talked about the difficulty of actually getting post to the people it’s addressed to.

Contrary to what I’d heard, postmen do not have keys to flats with only one, generally locked, entry door. It is the postperson’s duty to deliver the mail to the address on the post, “all mail’s delivered by address, not name.” Often there are problems; “if mail is left sticking out of a letterbox we take it back and the manager deals with it.” Any letter that can’t be delivered, for whatever reason, is taken back to the sorting office, “obviously we wouldn’t leave anything that was at risk.” However, mail brought back without any effort having been made, is likely to get the person into trouble. Once, when Carole had to ring the bell to deliver a recorded letter, she was startled by the door opening on a naked man. All she could think of was to offer him her pen to sign his name with!

INVALID SERVICES Ltd.

So how do you become a postperson?

First, there is a three-day period in the Perth training school. There you learn about legal matters, rights, duties, health and safety regulations. You are even taught how to carry your bags! After that, it’s a week on a round with a postie, followed by six weeks probation.

If all goes well, you are then measured up from top to toe for your uniform. There is a lot of job satisfaction, as Carole says, “we don’t lose many staff here.” Promotion means office work inside, but Carole points out that, “we’re here to be postmen and we’re quite happy doing that.” Older men tend to take up driving duties, and women do apply for office work.

Seniority comes with the number of years you work, and this gives you choices in the duties.

There are four weeks and three days of paid leave, increasing after many years to possibly six weeks.

Carole has been on the job for seven years. “I enjoy sport in general. It’s quite nice to get exercised and get paid for it!” But she is also a wife and mother. The smallest round done by a postie covers some 385 houses; the largest covers more than 500. St. Andrews’ posties walk or cycle between eight and a half, and eleven miles every day. Every working day, 23,000 items are delivered by 42 posties, using 13 vehicles, and 6 bicycles. In and around St. Andrews there are 9954 addresses of which 733 are businesses. Makes you think, doesn’t it?

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15

SHOPS & SERVICES

Roving Reporter Roving Reporter can’t resist asking questions. So, naturally, seeing a new name, in he went to our latest new shop 1. Lebibe, 1b St Mary’s Place, St Andrews, just around the corner where Bell Street joins Market Street. He was greeted kindly by Mehmet Ozen, the owner, and made very welcome. Comfortably seated on a luxurious leather sofa, and sipping a large glass of very fresh orange juice, as if he were on holiday in some exotic location, Reporter looked approvingly at the array of wonderful leather handbags on every shelf. “At Lebibe, we use the finest Italian leather to create individually handcrafted pieces. Our range of handbags and ladies and gents jackets and coats are specially selected for Lebibe,” Mehmet explained. On the counter next to Reporter lay a tray of beautiful rings with many kinds of semiprecious stones. “Much of the silver jewellery comes from Denmark; it is all sterling silver with an anti-tarnish finish.”

Reporter asked about the shop’s name and how to pronounce it. “You sound each of the three syllables. It is a Turkish name meaning ‘loyal and respectful.’ Only women in the Turkish Sultan’s entourage could use this name.”

Reporter was intrigued. How is it then that the shop has the name? Mehmet’s Greatgrandmother was one of the Sultan’s brides during the old Ottoman Empire!

Mehmet used to be a regional manager with Air Tours and speaks English, Norwegian, Swedish, Danish and German. It was by chance on one of his tours of duty in

Turkey that he met a Scottish couple from Broughty Ferry who were on holiday. They taught him English and very soon made the small coastal town of Cesme, where Mehmet comes from, their home. It didn’t just end there.

Mehmet made friends with other people from Broughty Ferry who visited Cesme, and he himself regularly came and visited Scotland over the next ten years. This summer, Mehmet married the daughter of one of those Cesme visitors, and wore the kilt on his wedding day.

Mehmet finds many cultural similarities between Scotland and his native Turkey.

He still owns a farm in Cesme and has no problem jetting back and forth. Quite a breath of fresh air for St Andrews!

2. Plus ça change..... Our Reporter called in to what was previously ‘Aktive 8’ and is now Trespass, 109a South Street, St. Andrews. Here he met Gordon, the Manager, who gave him an insight into how one brand seamlessly changes into another. In its former existence, the shop sold high tech outdoor clothing aimed at the specialist enthusiast.

However, the St. Andrews clientele tends more to impulse buying, so when Karrimor was bought out, Trespass was brought in. This outdoor brand encourages browsing amongst its stock, and is aimed at “the whole family, from todlers to grandparents”. Swiss army knives, Maglite torches, compasses, stoves, tents, sleeping bags, and everything a walker or camper needs can still be found in the shop.

Gordon’s approach is strictly “customer friendly”, and he will never pressure anyone.

The award-winning firm is based in Glasgow and “will make what sells”. Head Office listens to what its retailers tell it, and will “if need be, develop a particular product for a particular shop”. It’s hardly surprising therefore, that the Company is global. Reporter sneaked a look at its website when he went home and was impressed. Meanwhile, Gordon is looking forward to stocking 700 lines by next summer – no mean feat for a shop that has been rebranded only since this year’s Lammas.

3. Reporter couldn’t help thinking that French visitors to our town would be pleased to see an authentic outdoor French crêperie beside the Fountain in Market Street. And weather permitting, it will always be there. Nick Willoughby, its inspired owner, chatted to Reporter on a sunny morning in September. Nick is from London, connected to Scotland through his mother, who was born in Dundee.

He graduated in Business Management at the Golf Academy of the Carolinas, USA. Nick started out at the ill-fated Scottish National Golf Academy at Drumoig. Then came a six-month stint at Ma Bells. All the while Nick “wanted to do his own thing”.

Since there was “nothing like

this in St. Andrews” he went off to Annecy in France to learn about crêpe-making. There he was supplied with a machine and training by Crêpe 1900, a company which followed him back to St. Andrews to help further. All the main ingredients for Nick’s crêpes come from France, including the deliciously flavoured sugars. Starting out in Market Street last June, business has been picking up, and Nick has expanded into the private events sector, offering a unique way of presenting crêpes for that special party.

“We’re trying to take fast food on to the next level”.

On offer is a healthy crêpe that is virtually fat-free and has only 90 calories. Soon Nick will import a croquemonsieur machine as well; and yes, watch this space for the “Haggis Special” to come!

Reporter had an ‘Italian Job’ for his lunch. Filled generously with goats’ cheese, pesto, spinach and “sunblushed tomatoes” it was scrumptious, and well worth its price of £4.

Meat-eaters will surely relish the ‘Royal ‘n’ Ancient’, filled with roast beef, spinach and horseradish mayo. As for the sweet crêpes, Reporter’s lips were sealed – ‘go and try them’, was all he’d say! Drinks are also available.

Dun Greetin’ is looking forward to winter without flinching. How come? Read on . . .

Milk & Dairy Products Delivered Throughout Fife Milk Tokens Welcome Delivery to Shops, Factories & Homes Tel: 01334 840880 Ladeddie Farmhouse, Pitscottie, Cupar

GROWING WHEELS GARDEN SERVICES – no job too small.

Mowing, weeding, digging, borders designed and renovated, odd jobs and DIY also considered.

PHONE KEITH ON: 07840 106983 OR: 07821 976572

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I live in one of those old, old houses in St. Andrews that have draughts everywhere, or rather, did have. My 18th century windows have just been restored by Ventrolla, the sash window renovators, free phone 0800 243126. In this day and age it’s a rare thing to be able to sing a firm’s praises with honesty and truth. But that’s what I’m doing. From the signing of the contract to the finish, I can’t fault any of it. The two craftsmen, and that’s exactly what they are, arrived at my house at 8.15 am, a quarter of an hour earlier than expected, and got on with the job without fuss or bother. They took five windows out, worked on them most of the day, then cleaned my rooms spotless. Now I can throw away my window wedges, clean my windows without hanging precariously out over the street, (because the old system of swinging windows inside the room has been put back), and I’ll be able to sleep snugly through all the gales, thanks to Ventrolla’s innovative, and practically invisible, draught-proofing. Nae bad, nae bad at a’; and it’s no cost me an arm and a leg either!

SHOPS & SERVICES

COMPETITION – Go on, have a go!

CELEBRATE CHRISTMAS at the SCORES HOTEL CHRISTMAS DAY LUNCH

A glass of mulled wine on arrival, then enjoy a 4 course lunch and coffee. £45.00 per person served between 1pm – 3pm

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Please send your entries at the very latest by Tuesday, 30th November to – The Editor, Local Publishing (Fife) Ltd., PO Box 29210, St. Andrews, Fife, KY16 9YZ. Don’t forget your own contact details, so that the lucky winner can be notified straight away.

Champagne and Canapes, followed by a 4 course Dinner £55.00 per person 7pm – 1am

FESTIVE FAYRE LUNCH AND DINNER Available from 3rd – 23rd December Lunch served 12 noon – 2.30pm £17.25 per person Dinner served 7 – 9pm £24.50 per person

CHRISTMAS PARTY NIGHTS Friday 10th, Saturday 11th, Friday 17th Saturday 18th December Dinner 7pm, then dance to our DJ until 1am. £28.50 per person.

Save the drive home for the next day, special accommodation rate of £35 B&B per person when attending a Party Night.

For Brochure / Reservations Tel: 01334 472451 Fax: 01334 473947 Email: conference@scoreshotel.co.uk 76 THE SCORES, ST ANDREWS KY16 9BB

Free prize draw for all correct forms.

Prize of 1 x 750ml bottle of wine to the value of £6. All participants must be over the age of eighteen.

Identification may be required if person is or appears to be under the age of 18.

Bottoms Up, 144 Market Street, St. Andrews. Tel: 01334 476618.

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17

OUT & ABOUT After 4 productive and hectic years as Chairman of the Friends of the Botanic Garden, Edith Cormack has retired.

This tribute to her is reproduced with kind permission from the September 2004 Newsletter of The Friends of the Botanic Garden, St. Andrews.

Several cheers for the out-going Chairman!

When Edith Cormack took over the reins from Morris Wilson as Chairman knowledge of plants and above all her of the Friends in September 2000 she wrote that she was overwhelmed love of this Garden. This has been by what he had achieved in his term of office. In the last four years Edith carried further afield in talks, illustrated by has built on that very solid foundation and broadened the scope of the Richard’s magnificent slides, bringing the Friends’ activities. delights of the Garden to a new audience.

The Friends have been blessed with excellent chairmen to lead and And the quarterly newsletter, reaching Photograph courtesy of guide the organisation. In 1981, Harold Pirie laid the foundations for out to its audience, has benefited from the Friends of the the future success of the Friends. Ian Douglas consolidated this work, Edith’s support and encouragement. There Botanic Garden successfully negotiating the role of the group through the transition of the has seldom been a publication that has Garden from University to Local Authority management. Morris Wilson not immediately been followed by an was responsible for the formation of the current Botanic Garden Working e-mail from her, registering her appreciation and interest. More than once, Group to oversee the working garden when the Botanic Garden Advisory in an emergency, Edith has provided excellent copy, filling a gap that has Committee was sidelined. yawned alarmingly just before a deadline. Such The very core of a Botanic Garden is education are her leadership qualities that there has never Edith – this is a BIG thank and this has been Edith’s inspiration. Edith it was been any doubt but that we could turn to her for you for all your hard work and help or advice and be sure of getting the most who produced the text for the nine, extremely valuable, interpretation boards which bedeck the comprehensive of responses. especially for your endless Garden. She has been instrumental in introducing As Chairman, Edith has presided with charm good humour despite many best practice for bringing the Friends up to date and great efficiency over a committee of willing with current legislation for Health and Safety in the volunteers. The above sentences of appreciation vicissitudes.

Garden and the Child Protection Policy. illustrate how lucky we all feel to have had such She has successfully introduced a pilot project a person at the helm for these past four years. for primary schools in the area, the success of which is such that in the The new Chairman will find an enthusiastic team in place, fired as we all spring and summer terms of this year over 1000 pupils visited the Garden have been by Edith’s inspiration and example. to take part. Edith would be the first to say that nothing could have been achieved without the remarkable trio of teachers who have supported her Edith – this is a BIG thank you for all your hard work and especially for enthusiastically throughout, although without her determination and drive your endless good humour despite many vicissitudes. We hope you will the programme might never have got off the ground. now have time simply to enjoy the Garden.

Edith has led countless Garden Walks, and anyone joining them cannot help but be affected by her tremendous enthusiasm and Signed – Helen Dingle, Jean Allardice, Bob Mitchell, Jean Le Maitre

18

OUT & ABOUT / SELECTED EVENTS Alistair Lawson, Field Officer for the Scottish Rights of Way & Access Society, kindly added this rider to last issue’s article on the Caiplie Caves: May I add a little extra detail to the description in your last issue of the route to the Caiplie Caves?

I walked the shore path from Anstruther / Kilrenny to the Caves recently and was able to view the descent from Caiplie as I passed along that section of the coast. In fact, curiosity moved me to walk the link section, just to satisfy myself as to its line and where it came out on the Caiplie road.

The Coastal Path is defined at that point by electric fencing, but, about 100m west of the Caiplie buildings, there is a curious “gate”, consisting of two wooden uprights and a detachable chain stretched between them at waist height; this is easily manipulated. Heading northwards, a faint path leads across an area of rough grazing to reach a second, similar “gate”. There follows a rough stretch of faint path passing a small pond and its fringe of reeds and bulrushes; this climbs up towards the Caiplie road, reaching it at a wooden, pedestrian-width gate just at the pronounced hairpin bend above the buildings. From here, it is an easy walk up to the A917 Crail-Anstruther road.

I trust this additional detail is of interest – and use – to your readers.

Selected Events Saturday, 6 November – 8.00pm in the Music Auditorium, St. Leonards School, St. Andrews. The Zephyr Wind Ensemble (John Tunnell Trust Competition winners) playing music by Haydn, Ibert, Holst, Arnold, and arrangements by Charlie Parker. £8 (£7) students £4, kids £1 Saturday, 6 November – Town Hall, St. Andrews. Antiques and Collectors Fair.

90p (50p). Contact: 01334 880254 / 838217 Sunday, 7 November – Remembrance Day. Noon, Service and Last Post at the Memorial, North Street.

Tuesday, 16 November – 7.30p.m. at the Byre Theatre, Travel Tales of a Ten Quid Migrant, a talk by Robert Grieve, The Railway & Transport Society. £1.50 Contact the Secretary, 01334 655965 Saturday, 20 November – 8.00pm in the Music Auditorium, St. Leonards School, St. Andrews. The Gould Piano Trio, playing music by Haydn, Korngold, Schubert. £8 (£7) students £4, kids £1 Tuesday, 23 November – 7.00p.m. at the Scout Hall, The Scores, St. Andrews.

A Beaver Drive towards the renovation of the Hall. Fun for all the family. Raffle.

Everyone welcome – £1 adults, 50p children. Contact Claire Gammie: 01334 850 725 Sunday 21 November – Thursday 2 December – St. Andrews Week. See p.20 programme of events. Contact: Tourist Information Centre, 01334 472 021 Sunday, 28 November – 11.30am – 3.30pm in the Botanic Garden Glass Class.

St. Andrews Day in the Garden. Fun for all the family, walks; talks; and the Third Annual Chairman’s Conker Contest!

A Matter of Access The Land Reform (Scotland) Bill received Royal Assent in January 2003. Its implementation rests on final approval of the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, drawn up with wide-ranging consultation by Scottish Natural Heritage.

Summarising such a broad and historical achievement is not easy. However, it is worth looking at an outline of what is covered by the Act, because this magazine likes to think it encourages sensible recreation in the countryside.

Indeed, ‘responsibility’ is the guiding principle to access in the countryside, enshrined in “The public right of responsible access” (see the Draft Scottish Outdoor Access Code. This may be obtained from Scottish Natural Heritage, 46 Crossgates, Cupar, Tel: 01334 654038).

Access is over or under all land or water in Scotland, with certain provisos that ensure privacy and personal safety. That means, in effect, that you have no right to trample over people’s gardens, barge through someone’s farm, or enter a building that is not open to the public.

Referred to as “curtilage”, the extent to which you can traverse land is restricted by the obvious: for instance, you can’t march across a growing crop, or enter someone’s garden after going through a wood which ends there. If a right of way, or an established route, does run through a farmyard, then you have access – or you can ask permission of the farmer to traverse his land. Wherever routes are signposted, you should stick to them. Dangerous places, such as quarries, military areas, dams etc. etc. (look at the legislation for a full list) are restricted by law in the interests of public safety. “Managed attractions”, such as National Trust properties where you pay an entry charge, are also restricted.

So, whenever you plan an outing of any kind whatsoever, it is necessary to take into account what you can and what you can’t do. There is no actual definition of “recreational purposes”. Lawful, responsible, and peaceable pastimes, which include all pursuits such as picnicking, bird-watching, canoeing, rock climbing, and so on, whether by individuals or groups, have the right of access in Scotland. Enjoy what is right!

Sunday, 28 November – 2.00 – 5.00pm The Scores Hotel, The Scores, St. Andrews.

Ceilidh / Old Time Dance, Andy Greig, accordion; guest artist, Ingrid Hammond, violin; MC/ Caller. Tickets, £3 at the door (include tea/coffee, shortbread).

Bar available. Everyone welcome. Contact: 01334 472451 Tuesday, 30 November – 7.30p.m.at the Byre Theatre, The Rosyth to Sebrugge Superfast Ferry Service, a talk by Alfred Braid, the Railway & Transport Society. Contact the secretary 01334 655965 Thursday, 2 December – 7.30p.m at the Younger Hall, North Street. Gilbert & Sullivan Concert 01334 462226 Tuesday, 7 December – 7.30p.m at the Younger Hall, North Street. Youth Choir Concert. Christmas music and more.

Contact 01334 462226 Saturday, 11 December – 7.30pm.

Mendelssohn, Elijah – in the Younger Hall, North Street, St. Andrews. The St. Andrews Chorus, directed by Stephen Doughty, accompanied by the Heisenberg Ensemble.

Tickets £8, concessions £6, students £3.

Contact: Alice Curteis; tel. 01334 473648, email alice.curteis@tiscali.co.uk Thursday, 16 December – 2.30p.m. Town Hall, St. Andrews Christmas Decorations, a talk by Peggy Reid, Gadeners’ Club.

Contact 01334 477429

199

FEATURES

St Andrew’s Week 2004

Sunday 21st November – Thursday 2nd December 2004 What better place to enjoy the feast of St Andrew than St Andrews?

A winter festival of the best Scottish music, dance and food, with exhibitions, events, occasions and activities – to celebrate Scotland’s patron Saint.

Friday 26th •

CANDLE LIT CONCERT OF SCOTTISH TRADITIONAL SINGING Hope Park Church, St Mary’s Place With Archie Fisher and support from Ronan and Jim Watson.

7.30pm, Tickets £8.00 Conc £6.00, available from St Andrews Tourist Information Centre, 01334 472021

Saturday 27th •

MUSIC IN THE SQUARE, Church Square Live music played in the open air, 11am – 3pm Have a go at Scottish Country Dancing from 1-3pm

•

THE SCOTTS PORAGE OATS FOOD AND DRINK FAIR The Byre Theatre, Abbey Street Bigger and better with a wide range of specialist food stalls, tastings, demonstrations and the Golden Spurtle Award for the best bowl of porridge in Fife 2004. This year Goldilocks and the Three Bears will be on hand to join in the fun and assist with the all important judging. Live music and in-house entertainment for all the family.

11.00am – 4.00pm, FREE

•

KALEIDOSCOPE KAPERS, Loot, 68 Market Street Sir David Brewster invented the kaleidoscope in the early 19th century. Watch the Kaleidoscope Company of St Andrews making kaleidoscopes.

11am- 3pm

•

ST ANDREWS MERCHANTS ASSOCIATION CHRISTMAS LIGHTS SWITCH ON, Market Square Entertainment for children – and well behaved adults – at the east end of Market Street. Starts 3.00pm, see Father Christmas switch on the Christmas Lights 4.45pm

•

TORCHLIT PROCESSION CHURCH SQUARE TO THE HARBOUR 6.00pm

•

LIGHTING OF ST ANDREWS DAY BEACON AT THE HARBOUR Refreshments, music and a grandstand view of the Spectacular St Andrews Bay Fireworks Display, 6.30pm.

Tel: 01334 475555

•

FIREWORKS SPECTACULAR AT ST ANDREWS BAY GOLF RESORT & SPA 7.15pm, shuttle bus tickets available in advance from the Tourist Information Centre, 01334 472021

•

ST ANDREW’S DAY GALA BALL, St Andrews Bay Golf Resort & Spa Now in its 4th year. The combination of the spectacular fireworks display and the stunning venue make this the place to celebrate St Andrew’s Day in style.

Tickets £50, individual tickets or tables of 8 –12 can be accommodated. Contact: Jo Aitken or Fiona Calder Tel: 01334 412674 or email info@standrewsfestival.com

In a full programme, highlights include:

Sunday 21st November •

•

PIPING COMPETITION, Madras College, Kilrymont Road.

Junior pipers from around Scotland are invited to compete for the title of St Andrews Day Piper 2004.

12.30pm – 4.30pm Entry forms: www.standrewsfestival.com Tel: 01334 412674 MORNING WORSHIP WITH ANGUS STRATHSPEY & REEL SOCIETY, Hope Park Church, 11.00am

Tuesday 23rd •

•

OFFICIAL LAUNCH AT THE OLD COURSE HOTEL, The Atrium, The Old Course Hotel.

Reception, drinks and preview of Scottish Contemporary charity art auction.

6.00pm – 7.00pm, Admission by invitation – limited tickets available.

SCOTTISH DANCE THEATRE, The Byre Theatre Award winning company with an exciting, new repertoire of works including the first new piece in 3 years by the company’s acclaimed Artistic Director Janet Smith.

Tickets £11.00 Conc £8.50 Children £6.00, Box Office 01334 475000

Wednesday 24th •

TOP OF THE SCOTS, The Byre Theatre Ever popular Peter Morrison is joined by folk singer Alastair Mcdonald, soprano Mary Cameron and comedian Eddie Devine, Peggy O’Keefe and John Henery.

8.00pm, Tickets £13 Conc £10, Box Office 01334 475000

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THE ST ANDREWS STORY, Crawford Arts Centre, 93 North Street Listen to stories about the foundation of St Andrews, led by Simon Taylor and organised with the Friends of the Crawford.

Performance time to be confirmed, Tel: 01334 474610

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FEATURES

Sunday 28th •

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UNIVERSITY OF ST ANDREWS CHARITIES CAMPAIGN FUN RUN A chance to blow away the cobwebs and maybe clear the head!

Scottish themed attire encouraged. Check out the website www.usacc.org.uk or call 01334 462777 for details.

THE VELUX INTERNATIONAL KITE FESTIVAL 2004, West Sands Spectacular display of kite flying by international masters to celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the Velux Company, featuring kites large and small from around the world including the winner of the Fife schools ‘Design a kite’ competition. Loads of other attractions.

(Events may be rescheduled depending on weather and tides) 11.00am – 3.30pm

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ST ANDREWS BOTANIC GARDEN BIG BUMPER OPEN DAY A chance to explore this special garden and take part in a range of activities.

11.00am – 3.30pm, FREE

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MUSIC IN THE SQUARE, Church Square A chance to hear buskers playing live in the square and maybe be the first to hear a future star. 1.00pm – 3.00pm, FREE

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ST ANDREWS MUSEUM – MUSIC FOR ST ANDREWS DAY A delightful selection of music on violin and viola from Iain Flett, Morag-Anne Elder and their eight year old daughter Elizabeth.

2.00pm, FREE. Tel: 01334 412690

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ST ANDREWS WEEK CEILIDH, The Scores Hotel, The Scores An afternoon of music, poetry and dancing, with Ingrid Hammond on the fiddle and Andy Greig on accordion. Poetry recitals. Irish Dancing. Ceilidh and Old Time dancing. 2.00 – 5.00pm. Tickets £3.00 at the door to include light refreshments. Tel: 01334 472375

Tuesday 30th St Andrews Day •

HISTORIC SCOTLAND GUIDED TOURS Free entry and guided tours all day to St Andrews Castle and the Cathedral. Tel: 01334 472563 Cathedral, 01334 477196 Castle

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THE ROYAL AND ANCIENT GOLF CLUB OPEN DAY The historic clubhouse will be open to allow devotees a chance to view the Trophy Room and the Big Room.

10.00am – 5.00pm, FREE. Tel: 01334 460000

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GUIDED WALK OF THE OLD COURSE A wonderful opportunity organised by the St Andrews Links Trust for golf pilgrims to walk the Old Course. Tickets – £2.00 to include a complimentary Old Course scorecard and a voucher offering 2 for 1 entry to the British Golf Museum. Tel: 01334 466624

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ST ANDREW’S DAY PARTY, The Old Course Golf Resort & Spa Celebrate St Andrew’s Day with an evening extravaganza featuring music and dance.

7.00pm, Tickets: £5.00 available from Tourist Information Centre 01334 472021

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BEATING THE RETREAT, Church Square A long held tradition on St Andrews Day, with the City of St Andrews Pipe Band and Madras College Pipe Band 7.30pm

Wednesday 1st December •

SCOTTISH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA CONCERT, Younger Hall The SCO perform Mozart, Fauré and Mendelssohn.

7.30pm, Tickets from £5.00 to £17.50 Tel: 01334 462226 or 01334 475000 (The Byre Theatre)

Thursday 2nd December •

OF BALLADS, SONGS AND SNATCHES, Younger Hall An Evening celebrating the wit of W S Gilbert and the music of Sir Arthur Sullivan. 7.30pm

Further information available from the Festival Co-ordinators Jo Aitken and Fiona Calder Email info@standrewsfestival.com Tel 01334 412674 www.standrewsfestival.com Tickets for events other than at The Byre Theatre and The St Andrews Gala Ball are available from the St Andrews Tourist Information Centre, 70 Market Street, St. Andrews. Telephone 01334 472021

The Event – Something for everyone Now in its 9th year, the festival features an impressive range of events and activities. Live music – from classical concerts to traditional ceilidh, pipers to buskers, big bands to fiddlers three – is one important element, with dance, drama, the visual arts, food, drink, kites and fireworks all adding to the mix.

The Scotts Porage Oats Food and Drink Fair at The Byre Theatre promises to be bigger and better than ever with Goldilocks helping the Three Bears to award the ‘Golden Spurtle’ for the best bowl of porridge in Fife, while the lighting of the Beacon at the harbour followed by the Fireworks Spectacular at St Andrews Bay, will more than brighten any November night.

Take part in a fun run, fly a kite, learn ceilidh dancing in the open air, see inside the Royal and Ancient Clubhouse, bid for your very own piece of Scottish contemporary art, enjoy exhibitions and demonstrations, explore the castle and cathedral, shop till you drop – and then go to the Gala Ball. It’s a feast for a feast.

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FEATURES

Rita Henderson started thinking about Christmas in the middle of summer. She told Flora Selwyn why.

Director of the Byre Theatre’s last two highly successful Christmas shows, and Associate Director of the first at the new Byre, Rita Henderson has a tight schedule to adhere to in order to achieve the final, professional result audiences have come to expect.

Beginning with a reading of the script of a show, Rita shares her initial reactions with her designer. Together they brain-storm, each sparking ideas in the other, until a first consensus is reached.

“I’m a visual person,“ Rita professes, “I see images of everything – the language of the play gives you a visual idea.“ There are costume changes to consider, lighting – in fact all the hidden structures upholding the production. Then the auditions begin. As many as two thousand people may apply, and it takes infinite time and patience reducing that number to maybe ten performers.

Rita says that few people are at their best at audition. She does her utmost to put people at their ease, allay their fears. Yet the process “is a wonderful way to find new talents, and to take risks as well.” Once the team is in place, only three and a half to four weeks remain before the first curtain-up.

This Christmas, Rita is directing Laurence Boswell’s adaptation of Beauty and the Beast. It is essentially a morality play about Truth. “Don’t look with your eyes, listen with your heart” advises Rita. “It is story-telling at its best.” There is a cast of eight. Only Beauty has one role, all the others have to play several characters. The music is original, developing as preparation progresses. “It excites me a lot,” enthuses Rita, “I’m hoping the music will take us on a journey with the piece. I’m really looking forward to that.

I’d like to make it a physical piece as well, with dance.” To make it work well requires everyone to pull together – in an ensemble such as here, there is no star, no chorus, the whole must gel, everyone must adapt equally.

“That makes it much more fun, much more collaborative.” Trust, essentially, is the glue.

“Theatre,” Rita confides, “is my leisure and my pleasure.” Modesty seems to have prevented her from mentioning the many, many productions she has to her credit. Since her appointment at the Byre in 2001 she has directed seven, was closely involved with four others and has directed two rehearsal/staged play readings, as well as two productions for

“Theatre is my leisure and my pleasure.”

the St. Andrews Youth Theatre. Her CV list is impressively long and varied; from ‘Kiss me Kate’, to ‘Jumpers’, to the innovative threeday dance/science project ‘Dance Spark: The Journey Within’ at the Byre in March 2003.

With such dedication, and with her previous productions still resonating, Rita Henderson can’t fail to make Christmas at the Byre memorable this year too. Incidentally, when the RSC put on Beauty and the Beast in London last Christmas, 10,000 people went to see it.

Let’s make sure the Byre has a full house this Christmas!

It was a pleasure to hear from Vida Brown, who lives in Corby, Northhamptonshire – inspired by the inadvertent spelling of the Burgh School’s name! Thank you for your wonderful memories, and kind comments.

The feature on David Martin on page 8 reports that he went to the old ‘Borough’ School – this should be Burgh School. As a former pupil I feel qualified to make this correction!

On page 11 it was back down memory lane to the school which preceded the Burgh School in my school career. (It was amazing how much ground the pupils covered in those days – 4 year-olds went to the Baby Burgh, then at 5 you progressed to the West Infant School, on to the Fisher School, down Abbey Street to the Burgh School, then if you passed the 11 plus it was up to South Street to Madras College!! All on foot too!) Ian Seeley’s comment on the harbour end of the playground was that it doubled as a shelter and bike shed, but when I attended in 1947 the end of the playground was the Boys’ toilets and Girls’ toilets. In winter there was usually an icy slide which led you straight into the wall at the entrance.

I particularly enjoyed the report on the Boys Brigade. With my sisters I grew up through being a Rosebud to Speedwell, and on through the ranks of the Girls’ Guildry under the care of Mrs. Allen, and had the honour of representing the St.Andrews Guildry at the showing off of Prince Philip to the people of Scotland in Edinburgh by the Princess Elizabeth. That was a day to remember – Mrs. Allen collected this mite (me) from our council house in her Rolls Royce complete with chauffeur, down to the railway station, off to Edinburgh, lunch with her in Binns on Princes Street, lined the route for the Princess, home on the train again with tea and cakes on the train, then delivered home again by Rolls Royce. However, back to the Boys Brigade – in those days the weekly hop for most of us was in the BB Hall. Sometimes, too, a team of Girls Guildry were forced to attend there to practice with BB boys (shock, horror to dance with BOYS) in order to give a demonstration of Scottish Country dancing for some bigwigs’ dinner in the Town Hall.

See the memories which your articles promote? Thank you very much for your work, I am so pleased that a kind soul at Largoward dances told us of your Sunday dances and then you yourself told us of this magazine.

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FEATURES

Fresh blood? asks Community Councillor Bruce Ryan No blood, but plenty of energy and commitment. This is how I would describe my four months so far on St. Andrews Community Council.

I was co-opted, along with Bette Christie, on 7th June 2004 by the other members of the Council. Why had I volunteered for this? It hardly seemed natural for me – I tend to lack confidence at public occasions and prefer to hide behind a computer. Well, I wanted to engage with and contribute to St. Andrews. This town has been my home for half my life. My time here, from when I first saw and fell in love with the town, to my bleakest moments, is part of me.

I first appreciated my new colleagues as serious. I was right about this – Community Councillors are serious about what they do. While views can differ extremely, I’ve seen respect, combined with passions for views and issues dear to St. Andreans’ hearts. My colleagues are local residents, business owners, University staff and students, and the four St. Andrews Fife Councillors – all having differing concerns – but it seems we all want the best for the town.

Over the past three months, Councillors’ differing perceptions of what is best for the town have become clearer. Since I’m a normal

person, how I see the issues affects what I think of people who hold other opinions. However, the ways these opinions have been expressed have always been positive. You can see this for yourself at any meeting (1st Monday of each month at 7pm in the Burgh Chambers of the Town Hall) and in the minutes published at: http://www.louisxiv.demon.co.uk/standrewscc. (Copies are also in the town library and the local Fife Council Office.)

Also, differences are balanced by co-operation, as seen in the committees (Planning, Recreation, Health Education & Welfare, General Purpose and other ad hoc committees). I am on the planning committee – an example of where the most local level of democracy can use local knowledge to deal with local issues and influence higher levels.

This may seem a rosy description of the Council when recent local issues have aroused such passion and when many may want the Community Council to do more about them. Despite different opinions to other Councillors about them, I want dialogue both among us and with the other organisations affecting St. Andrews. This would allow us to work towards benefiting all the local interests from the very start (or at least provide early opportunities to dissuade others from doing things we oppose).

However, many decisions could have gone other ways. If you want to influence future decisions and to get a local issue to go the way you want it, the Community Council is one of the best ways to do so. Elections will be in early 2005. Why not stand and make your views felt?

Ted Brocklebank MSP shares his own thoughts on the new Scottish Parliament building from the inside, as it were

“The Plugs Don’t Work” Well, we’re in. After years of missed deadlines and spiralling costs, I have finally taken possession of my office in the new Scottish Parliament building, £70,000 “think pod” and all.

And what is my first impression? Well, to borrow the title of the Verve classic, “the plugs don’t work”. But it is not just the plugs, and while it would be easy to fall for the “wow” factor (the “wow” mainly being that we were finally in), I believe the building doesn’t really add up to the sum of its parts. Yes, of course, there are truly impressive areas, but you would expect that from a building that cost the Scottish taxpayer over £430 million.

The MSP offices themselves are fairly small, but that’s not particularly important when you remember that MSPs were not elected to sit in offices, but actually to represent the people in their constituencies. But in some parts the building seems to have been designed without functionality in mind. The office areas have lighting only down one side, so there is going to be a fairly low level of light in the winter. There is also a shortage of storage and any space there is totally inflexible.

The ceilings of the “think pods” are too low and you don’t have to be tall to risk knocking your head off whenever “thinking” is needed.

But it’s far from all doom and gloom. There are many parts of the Parliament Building that are breathtakingly original. Few could fail to be impressed by the debating chamber, where the

roof can only be described as an engineering masterpiece. The committee rooms are good and, in many ways, these and the chamber are the really important parts of the building. It is from these places that Scotland is governed and it is here that the Scottish Parliament has the opportunity to make changes that make the lives of Scots better.

Alas, in the first 5 years since Devolution, the Executive has failed to grasp that opportunity.

Labour and the Liberals, the coalition Executive partners, have legislated with all the courage of shy moles. Scotland, and Scotland’s people, have not been empowered by this Executive.

It has been an Executive that has legislated to prevent rather than promote.

We have seen a ban on hunting, a proposed ban on smoking, and the Liberals’ favourite, a new way of electing local councillors.

There is no doubt that the Scottish Parliament needs to do better, and that can be done only if the Executive concentrates on the needs of Scotland and does not become distracted by

There are many parts of the Parliament Building that are breathtakingly original

irrelevant issues.

While we are all interested in world peace, for example, this is not a direct priority for Holyrood. Why do we waste our time with debates on issues outwith the competency of the Scottish Parliament?

We should concentrate on those issues that affect Scotland and can be addressed by the Scottish Parliament. The Parliament must fight for our fishermen. Our businesses are suffocating under red tape and over-taxation.

We must cut business rates to the level in England. Why are we not pressing ahead with legislation to improve our archaic planning legislation, something close to the hearts of St. Andreans? When will we see the promised clarification of the Green Belt legislation, another matter of importance to St. Andrews?

There are so many things that Scotland can do to make Scotland a better place.

Ultimately, with regards to the building itself, I think it is for individuals to decide whether it represents value for money and I would extend a welcome to any St. Andreans who would like to come and see for themselves.

What I will say is that now we are settled in our £430m home, all MSPs and staff have a responsibility to make it work by improving our performance as legislators.

We should concentrate on those issues that affect Scotland and can be addressed by the Scottish Parliament

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FEATURES Lifang Lamb introduces

The Chinese Community In St. Andrews The Chinese are the second largest ethnic minority in Fife. They have tended to settle in Central and West Fife and the majority of them are in catering businesses such as takeaways or restaurants. Chinese people in St. Andrews are more or less associated with the University of St. Andrews. They either work or study here.

Two voluntary organisations based in St. Andrews – the Chinese Students and Scholars Association, and the Fife Chinese Cultural Society, have a membership of two hundred. It is estimated that there are more than two hundred Chinese people studying and working in St. Andrews. Most of them are from China; the People’s Republic of China, or Da Lu (Mainland China).

People here may not be aware that, like Britain, China is a multicultural country with fifty-six ethnic groups. They include the Han, Mongolian, Manchu, Russian, Korean, Tibetan, Miao, Yi, etc. Han has the biggest population and accounts for over 92 % of China’s total national population. The remaining fifty-five ethnic minority groups comprise less than 8% of the population, but inhabit 60% of Chinese territory. Each ethnic group speaks its own language, wears its own traditional dress, and has its own customs and religion. Twenty-three ethnic minority groups even have their own written languages!

The Chinese official language is called Putong Hua (Mandarin in English) – the Han language. The ethnic minorities are treated no differently from the Han. In fact, the last Chinese Imperial Dynasty (Qing, 1644 -1911) was governed by a Manchu, one of the ethnic minorities from northern China.

The Chinese people in St. Andrews come from all over the world; from China, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, Taiwan, America, Tailand, Vietnam, etc. Some of them are the first generation of immigrants and some of them are second or third generation.

The internal diversity and complexity of the Chinese community sometimes causes cultural misunderstanding or communication problems even for the Chinese themselves. For example, I have a friend who is Malaysia Chinese. She speaks Malay, Haka, and Cantonese, and I speak Mandarin. Our common language is English. However, although we speak to each other in English, we have more in common being Chinese as we share our Chinese values and heritage and we laugh at the same jokes.

It is difficult to tell when the first Chinese settled in St. Andrews. However, over the past ten years, we have seen the Chinese population in St. Andrews increase. This change is the result of both the British immigration policies and the Chinese economic reforms.

Between 1949 -1976, when Mao Zedong was in power, China had little contact with the rest of the world and people were not allowed to make money or be rich. Capitalism was evil. After Mao’s death in 1976, the Chinese government started economic and social reforms and began to open its door to the world.

One of the strategies was to fund hundreds and thousands of academic people and high achievers by sending them to the developed countries to study and gain work experience – mainly to America, Germany, Britain, Australia, France. One of the famous beneficiaries of this programme is the author of Wild Swan.

This strategy seems to have paid off. After completing their studies, these scholars either returned to China or found jobs abroad. No matter where they are, they act as a bridge between China and the rest of the world and play an equally important role in contributing to Chinese economic and social development.

As a result of this policy, we have seen an increasing number of Chinese people take up jobs in the University of St. Andrews, ranging from researchers to Readers, Lecturers and Professors.

Students have also contributed to the increase of the Chinese population in St. Andrews. In China, it is now a popular and also affordable option for some parents to send their children abroad to private schools or universities.

Personally, I think the following has attracted the Chinese students to come to St. Andrews: first, St. Andrews has a good reputation, especially because of its link with Prince William – this certainly is a big attraction in China. Second, Chinese millionaires now can afford to send their children to study either in private secondary schools or universities in the developed countries. Let’s not forget, this generation is the product of the one-child policy which was started in 1979 and only applied to the Han, not ethnic minority groups. Therefore, parents who have money will send their only child abroad to get the best education that money can buy. Third, Chinese people regard education as the most import thing to improve a child’s life, so parents will do whatever they can to provide the best education. What can be better than sending your child to a top British University with the Royal connection! Fourth, the Chinese government stopped free university education several years ago. Therefore the

Our common language is English. However, although we speak to each other in English, we have more in common being Chinese as we share our Chinese values and heritage and we laugh at the same jokes.

24

gap between studying in China and abroad is narrowing.

Evidence shows that Chinese people have successfully integrated into the local community wherever they go. The Chinese people in St. Andrews actively participate in local community activities. The Fife Chinese Cultural Society and the Chinese Students and Scholars Association have developed close working relations with a range of local organisations.

Of course, local people’s friendliness and kindness have also helped the Chinese people to integrate successfully into the local community.

Although the Chinese have tried their best to assimilate and integrate, they are also proud of their identity and try to pass their Chinese heritage to the next generation. The Chinese Students and Scholars Association has been set up to support Chinese students and University staff. The Chinese Cultural Society has been set up to promote Chinese culture in the wider community. The two groups work together to organise a range of activities to celebrate the Chinese New Year, Mid Autumn Festival, and other festivals. These parties are for the Chinese people, but open to the local community and everybody is welcome to join in.

The Chinese Cultural Society also runs a Chinese School in St. Andrews. It opens for children every Sunday from 10:30am – 12:30pm at the Baptist Church in South Street.

For the last two Christmases, the children have performed Chinese traditional songs/dances and Scottish songs for the elderly residents at Gibson Nursing Home, St Andrews. The Chinese Women’s Dancing Group also performed in the Glenrothes Gala and MultiCultural Event. The Chinese Cultural Festival held in the Crawford Arts Centre this May attracted more than 100 people.

For further information on China, you can go to the website on www.china.org.cn For further information on the Chinese Students and Scholars Association and the Fife Chinese Cultural Society, please go to their website on www.maotai.dcs.st-andrews.ac.uk

The Chinese people in St. Andrews actively participate in local community activities

FEATURES

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Professor James K. Cameron reviews

Professor R.M.M.Crawford reviews

St. Leonard’s Parish Curch, Centenary History

St Andrews: Portrait of a city

by Glen Pride (published by the Congregational Board of the Parish Church of St Leonard’s, £5)

by Lorn Macintyre, and Peter Adamson (Alvie Publications, St Andrews 2004. pp 200. Due out on the 15 November).

In this admirable “Centenary History” the author sets out to trace how St. Leonard’s Church has developed since its transference to its present site in 1904. This account is prefaced by a resumé of its earlier background as both a college chapel and a parish church in the building that is now the restored St. Leonard’s Chapel, and of the subsequent transference of the congregation to St. Salvator’s Church on the uniting of both St. Salvator’s and St. Leonard’s Colleges in 1747. In St. Salvator’s Church, which is now the University Chapel, the congregation and parish worshipped until 1904. During that time, Mr. Pride tells us it was a unique parish having no parish church, no manse, no glebe, and no part of its minister’s stipend was or had ever been derived from the teinds of the parish. As the United University wished to gain sole control over the use of its church, inevitably controversy ensued. It extended over several years and is succinctly set out. In the end the University decided to eject the congregation, and after much litigation it was required to seek a new site on which to build its own place of worship. The University consented to pay approximately half of the cost of the new building on the understanding that the congregation agreed to relieve it of all further responsibilities. In March 1902 Macgregor Chalmers was appointed architect for the new church, which is in all essentials the building we all know and love today.

In recording the history of the first hundred years of the congregation in its new building the incumbencies of the five ministers who have served it provide the natural “milestones”. The ministry of Robert Wallace from 1892 to his death in 1932 was primarily concentrated on the establishment of the congregation in its new Church and manse and by fostering the life of the congregation and its organisations. That of his successor, William L. Coulthard, a fine scholar and churchman, despite the outbreak of the Second World War, in which he served as an army chaplain, was one of consolidation for the “new” Church in both its own development and in the life of the community. This was significantly demonstrated in the service celebrating its jubilee by the official participation of both the town’s Provost and the University’s Principal. On his premature death in 1959 he was succeeded by Andrew B. McLellan, a man of energy and enthusiasm. His ministry was marked by his highly successful work in extending the number of Church members, largely on account of his parochial work in the extensive new residential developments to the south and west of the parish, by which the Church found itself in the midst of an everincreasing community. When he retired in 1979 he was succeeded

by Lawson R. Brown, who confronted with skill the reorganisation of the Church’s administration, and effected many reforms. He encouraged the kirk session to examine its long term aims and to seek to improve the ways it served the congregation and parish. Of his successor in 1998, the present incumbent, Alan D. McDonald, the author states that with his arrival, “St. Leonard’s acquired a new dimension both nationally and internationally, a dimension which found its way into its services, its music and its mission.”

Throughout this study, based on intensive research, the author never loses sight of the essential truth that ‘the church is the people’. It is, therefore, on the life of the congregation that he concentrates. Consequently, in his highly professional account of the fine new building in the classical style, its beautiful stained glass windows and its adjoining halls are set out in admirable appendices supplemented by architectural diagrams and some good representative photographic reproductions.

With this authoritative study Mr. Pride has significantly contributed to the Church’s celebrations and has put us all in his debt.

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Picture books can have two roles. The more usual is to provide a collection of attractive reminders of places you have visited. More rarely, they can open your eyes to scenes with which you are familiar and let you see them in a new light. To this latter category belongs this new volume of pictures of St. Andrews taken by Peter Adamson, accompanied with an historical commentary by Lorn Macintyre. Peter Adamson has spent thirty-five years of his working life as photographer to the University of St. Andrews and has produced numerous photographic volumes over this period, always with photographs of the highest standard. This present volume is in a class of its own in that it will astonish even those who have spent their lives walking the streets of this City, for the fresh insight it gives to the town with which we are all so familiar.

The most outstanding feature is the choice of viewpoints, which have been selected with originality and imagination and provide a new dimension for our appreciation of the architecture and the inhabitants of this ancient city. It is one thing to take a general view from a height to show the layout of a town; it is another thing to scale to almost impossible places, risking losing one’s camera, if not one’s life, in order to bring out the many facets of the skylines and building structures that are packed together inside the limits of this old town. Not only has attention been give to the angle at which the photographs are taken, but also the time of day. In every photograph the texture and detail of the stonework leaps out. Particular use is made of low light conditions with lowering skies which give a background against which buildings glow with their own rich colours. The view looking down on St. Salvator’s quadrangle on a winter’s day with two lone students walking through the snow, while looming over them the College tower stands out with its red and gold clock against a dark winter sky, is an unforgettable image of the timelessness of St. Andrews and its place in the world of learning.

The book is not just a record of St. Andrews and its buildings. Along with Lorn Macintyre’s historical commentary we are led through the life of the City over the centuries with glimpses of scenes that would have been familiar to Mary Queen of Scots, John Knox, Andrew Lang, as well as the many past citizens and public figures from whom we have inherited this unique city.

Present life is also well-portrayed, with shop interiors, pubs and restaurants shown with intimacy and charm. Even the gaunt, uninspiring concrete of a modern student residence in North Street is made to look romantic with the aid of careful lighting falling delicately on some trees and two students.

Some of the most recent buildings, such as the St. Andrews Bay Hotel and the latest version of the Byre Theatre, to which some citizens may not yet have become accustomed, or even accepted as contributing to our architectural heritage, are portrayed with a delicate photographic sympathy.

These images might even soften the hearts of those who regret some of the more recent additions to our store of buildings.

In all, this is a volume that is not just an awakening of our visual appreciation of St. Andrews, but through the skilful use of photographic imagery, combined with enlightening historical comments, provides an intellectual awakening and food for thought. Publication just before the festive season will provide a present that will give great pleasure to anyone who has had any connection with St. Andrews, whether it be as a fleeting visitor or a long-term resident.

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FEATUTRES

St Andrews Music Club Jeffrey Ashcroft writes about the Club, past and present.

As Betty Willsher’s new book on St Andrews Societies…Past and Present shows (see Hazel Gifford’s review in St. Andrews in Focus, issue 5), St. Andrews citizens are tirelessly clubbable, and many of their societies have been tenaciously long-lived. That is certainly true of the Music Club, which celebrated its fiftieth birthday two years ago. One reason for its longevity is that this small town has an appetite for good music and a flourishing musical life that many much larger communities would envy. The Club promotes an annual season of six professional chamber concerts, the Scottish Chamber Orchestra visits several times a year, the BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra rather more occasionally, while the Heisenberg Ensemble and the St. Andrews Chorus, the Renaissance Group, the Music Centre, and the many university student vocal and instrumental groups are merely the best known names in a catalogue of musical attractions too long to list exhaustively.

It is also true, I am convinced, that we live in a unique age of classical musical ability and opportunity. Scotland and the United Kingdom as a whole have more musical talent to draw on than they can ever have enjoyed in the past. When the committee of the Music Club sits down to plan its next year’s programme, it finds itself with a bewildering range of young and established players and ensembles to choose from. It could effortlessly construct two or three sets of six concerts instead of the mere one it can afford to promote. Of course this wealth of high-class talent has its negative side. Supply exceeds demand and many outstanding musicians, especially young ones, struggle to compete for sufficient bookings to make a living. But equally, that means that music clubs play quite a key part in the national musical economy.

In Scotland alone, from Stranraer to Thurso, there are around 75 local music clubs and societies, promoting more than 400 concerts between October and March each year, with an attendance altogether of more than 45,000 concert-goers. That far exceeds the public reached by the Scottish professional orchestras, touring opera and ballet.

Ironically, St Andrews Music Club, like many others, now has smaller membership and audiences than used to be the case. This is quite simply the result of the expansion of music-making and concert promotion in the town. When the Club was founded in 1953, it was the sole provider of regular professional concerts in what otherwise would have been, as Jack Allen, one of its founders, put it, “a musical desert”. The initiative and energy of Professor Allen, Cedric Thorpe Davie and Jean McPherson met with an enthusiastic response from town and gown. 348 members joined for the first season to hear concerts by then famous names, like the violinist Alfredo Campoli and the pianist Dame Myra Hess. In the first decades artists ranged from the popular singer Kenneth McKellar, the legendary horn-player Dennis Brain, the unforgettable Janet Baker, to the entire Scottish National Orchestra. There was often a waiting list for membership, a rush to grab non-members’ tickets when booking opened, and well-known artists, particularly pianists of the calibre of John Ogdon, Vladimir Ashkenazy and Peter Frankl, filled the Younger Hall to capacity.

Even in those palmy days, running a Music Club in Fife was never an entirely straightforward enterprise. When in 1960 Karl Rankl changed half the programme to be played by the SNO at six hours notice, then retired for a siesta in his room in the Scores Hotel, Jack Allen pulled the notoriously dictatorial conductor out of bed and used his own formidable powers of persuasion to ensure members got what they had paid for.

Not a few artists arriving late at the railway station found themselves struggling into tails and white tie as Cedric Thorpe Davie drove them to the hall at speeds normally frowned upon by the constabulary. Grumpy at the end of a long tour of the Highlands and Lowlands, Norbert Brainin, leader of the Amadeus String Quartet, stopped in mid movement to give a member (who should really have stayed at home to nurse her cold) a lesson in how to cough noiselessly – using the large red handkerchief he normally draped between his violin and his neck. Pianos have traditionally been the bane of Music Club organisers. For many years the Club regularly had Largs of Dundee bring their Steinway grand across the Tay for major concerts. Just before the road bridge opened it had had such a rough crossing on the old ferryboat that the pedals dropped off as the pianist embarked on a stormy musical passage. When the University bought its own Blüthner grand from Kirkcaldy Town Council, Peter Frankl pronounced it unplayable.

Nothing surpassed the much more recent experience when David Nettle and Richard Markham were engaged to play their 1920s Pleyel double grand piano, a monster with two actions and keyboards. When they arrived late at night with the instrument stowed in a converted horsebox towed by an elderly Mercedes, it soon became clear that, despite the help of the University’s first rugby XV, who happened to be passing in their customary state of merry insobriety, that it was not feasible to hoist the behemoth, which quite literally weighed a ton, onto the stage of the Buchanan Theatre. Seats were removed and the distinctly unchuffed duo agreed to play it on the auditorium floor. Next day the piano tuner struggled desperately to tune the twin sets of strings, but by the second half of the concert Nettle and Markham’s slogan “Two pianos sounding as one” no longer quite rang true.

Times have changed, and the Music Club has changed with them.

Audiences of a thousand listening to whole symphony orchestras are a thing of the past. Our six-concert seasons explore more exclusively the inexhaustible “chamber music” repertoire – pieces which in the days of Haydn and Beethoven, Schubert and Brahms, were indeed meant to be performed in a domestic or salon setting, often by gifted amateurs.

In later times, right to the present day, composers still find the smaller formats of string trio or quartet, piano and strings, woodwind ensemble, duos and solo sonatas, a fascinating challenge, with their clarity of tone and structure, and their intimacy of communication between players and listeners. The small scale of chamber music is complemented by the relatively small-sized audience the Club now attracts, and above all by the intimate, architecturally elegant, and acoustically ideal setting of the Music Auditorium of St.Leonards School which the Club is privileged to use. Even that perennial problem of the adequate piano was solved for us a few years ago, when one of our founder members presented to St.Leonards, for the use also of the Music Club, a superlative Bösendorfer, which even the most demanding professional pianists are thrilled to find awaiting them when they arrive for rehearsal.

This is a Club, it must be stressed, which is open to all. You may become a member simply by paying a subscription which gives you free entry to all the season’s concerts. Or you may buy a ticket at the door for any of the six individual concerts. Thanks to the subsidies we enjoy from Enterprise Music Scotland and from Fife Council, and to the generous terms on which we are able to stage our concerts in St.Leonards, we are able to keep subscription rates and ticket prices very competitive.

Beyond argument we offer the best of bargains – fine music going for the proverbial song. Look out for our features and advertisements in the St.Andrews Citizen and for our posters around town. Visit our website at, www.saint-andrews.co.uk/smc. Each season’s programme aims to present a variety of established and up-and-coming artists and instrumental ensembles, and a satisfying mixture of old and new, wellknown and unfamiliar music, ranging from the classical favourites to the occasional way-out contemporary.

What we offer in season 2004-2005 is, we believe, as attractive a programme as ever: Please turn to the Selected Events list here for details.

. . . we live in a unique age of classical musical ability and opportunity

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FEATURES Kenneth Fraser reviews

The Flags of St. Andrew The reason why the saltire is associated with St. Andrew is mysterious. Certainly the early legends of the Saint do not say that he was martyred on a cross of that shape. This question has been thoroughly investigated by Ursula Hall in her book St. Andrew and St. Andrews (which you may still purchase from the University Library). Suffice it to say that there are no known examples of a St. Andrew’s Cross before about the year 1000. St. Andrew on his Cross is first used as a national emblem of Scotland on the seal of the Guardians in 1286; a hundred years later the Cross, without the Saint, was being used on military uniforms.

By the late 15th Century it was appearing as part of the design on flags, but the first plain St. Andrew’s Cross flag now known dates from 1503: it was a white saltire on a red background. The saltire on a blue background appeared about the middle of the century, no doubt under the influence of the mediaeval legend about its miraculous appearance in the sky before the battle of Athelstaneford.

Fleece, and it soon began to be used on flags.

It is not clear whether the Burgundians had a saltire flag before the Scots, but theirs (in red on a white background) depicted a schematic version of two roughly-hewn tree trunks.

When in the 16th Century the Habsburg family inherited both Burgundy and Spain, the flag became widely used there.

The Irish red saltire on white, commonly called “St. Patrick’s Cross” has no connection with St. Patrick, who was not a martyr, but there are occasional references to it as an unofficial Irish flag from the 16th Century on. When the present Union Flag was devised in 1801, it was the most convenient Irish emblem to add to the original Anglo-Scottish Union Flag. The use of a similar flag by Jersey appears to arise from a misunderstanding of a reference to the Irish saltire in an 18th century flag book.

The Scottish flag is familiar to everyone, but not so many know that it has also been used by several other countries; only the principal ones can be mentioned here. In 1433, Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, having received a supposed fragment of St. Andrew’s Cross, made it an emblem of his Order of the Golden

Tsar Peter the Great of Russia is known for his efforts to modernise all aspects of his country, and among those reforms was the introduction of flags in a Western style, designed by himself.

Having established an Order of St. Andrew in honour of Russia’s patron saint, about 1700 he chose as the country’s naval ensign a blue saltire on a white background.(4) It is not clear if he was influenced by the Scottish flag, but he probably knew of it. The flag remained in use until 1917, and on the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, it returned as the flag of the Russian Navy.

The well-known flag of the Confederate States of America has a complex history. The first Confederate flag proved, in the heat of battle, to be too similar to the Stars and Stripes. A new one was proposed, based on a cross of St. George’s type on which were stars to represent the states, but it was objected to on the grounds that a secular state ought not to have a Christian emblem on its flag. So the saltire (which oddly enough was not thought of as Christian) was substituted.

Simon Taylor illuminates a neglected figure in the origin legends of St. Andrews

Mouren

There is one figure from the story of the origins of St. Andrews I would like to highlight. This is Mouren, daughter of King Hungus and his queen Finchem. According to the longer legend she is born while Regulus is visiting the royal palace of Mondynes in Kincardineshire, while on his way to see Hungus in Braemar. The legend adds: ‘The body of the virgin Mouren is buried at Kilrymonth, and no-one was buried there before her.’

This is a very significant claim: the first person to be buried in any religious place is of prime importance. Also the legend mentions her again at the end as having a church dedicated to her at Kilrymont, one of the seven churches listed, adding, ‘and in that church were 50 virgins born of royal stock, all dedicated to God, and veiled at eleven years of age, and all were buried in the eastern part of that church.’

There is in fact an historical Muirinn, a Leinster princess, who may be commemorated in the Loch Lomond island of Inchmurrin ‘Muirinn’s island’. She died in 748, the year after we get the first reference to a monastery at Kinrymont.

Very often in the medieval church where the cult of an international star such as Andrew or Peter is introduced, a more local cult is overshadowed and pushed aside. If Regulus existed at all as a holy man, then it may well be his cult that was overshadowed in this way. But given the honour accorded to Mouren in the legend, it is possible that it was her cult that was the chief victim of the success of Andrew’s. At the very least, we seem to have evidence of an important royal nunnery at Kilrymont. We might even imagine a royal double monastery, such as is found on another North-Sea headland, but in the kingdom of Northumbria – the monastery of Coldingham at St. Abb’s head, founded by Aebbe, a female member of the Northumbrian royal family in the late 7th century.

Here we are in the realms of speculation again. But there is no doubt that St. Mouren deserves to be better known in St. Andrews. The legend of how Regulus brought the relics of St. Andrew, while putting Andrew centre stage for obvious reasons, does not completely neglect her, and neither should we.

When Jamaica became independent in 1963, it was proposed to fly a flag with horizontal stripes of green, yellow and black, but it turned out that newly-independent Tanganyika had just adopted such a flag. So the colours were used in a design based on a saltire, because that emblem appeared in the arms of the capital, Kingston, whose full official name is “Kingston and St. Andrew”.

* * * * * * * * * * *

Kenneth Fraser’s book on Andrew Fletcher, featured in the July /Aug issue of St. Andrews in Focus, has been successfully published. Hearty congratulations, Kenneth!

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FEATURES Lillias Scott Forbes remembers

St. Andrews: By the Coastal Route The blue sea riding by our side, Flashing past coves Full with the silent roar of oceans We sat, staring from the carriage window, That camera-shutter clicking open At each painted picture for a trice – And we children, wide-eyed on holiday At our first peep-show!

At intervals the quiet stations rose, Porter or station-master, ear cocked For the snarl of steam – At the last halt we alighted Skipping into our holiday.

The Howe lay sunlit then Its fields sending back Odours of full, expectant fruit At summer’s brim: Laughter scattering along the furrows, Bronzed limbs stumbling Under that rich ingathering Between the rows.

And now – yon daisy field we passed And the children brushing through The tangle of white flowers Blotted with rain-washed poppies!

Back to the Future!

Alan Martin of the Kingdom of Fife Tourist Board talks about family history resources in St. Andrews and the surrounding area Have you ever wondered what life must have been like for your great-grandparents, or their parents? Well, you don’t need to be Michael J. Fox to find out! It can be absolutely fascinating to discover more about our ancestors and how they lived hundreds of years ago – in circumstances which may be all but unimaginable for us today.

Family history research is one of the fastest growing hobbies in the western world and with an estimated 28 million people worldwide who can claim Scots ancestry, it’s also a potentially huge market for tourism. The growth of this phenomenon in recent years may be in some way explained by ageing populations in the west. Many of the descendants of those who left the area to start a new life on distant shores are now interested in visiting the land of their forefathers. Research suggests that around 19% of visitors to Scotland from the USA are motivated by family history. When you compare this with golf at around 6%, it’s clear to see why both VisitScotland and the Kingdom of Fife Tourist Board are keen to target this market.

Anyone interested in tracing their roots will more than likely refer to records held at the General Register Office for Scotland (GROS) in Edinburgh, but if your descendants are from St. Andrews there is also a wealth of information which is only available locally. The nearest Local Studies Collection is held in Cupar Library; but in St. Andrews itself, the University Library Special Collections Department is a fantastic, if relatively unknown, resource. To view the Special Collections website, visit http://specialcollections.st-and.ac.uk then use the Genealogy index tab on the left of the page to navigate the site.

As well as housing microfilm copies of the 1841 – 1891 census returns for Fife and the International Genealogical Index (IGI), the Special Collections Department in North Street has church records for the Presbyteries of St. Andrews & Cupar. These records can provide an intriguing insight into how your ancestors might have lived. Records include Communion Rolls and Kirk Session Minutes which list details of illegitimate births, payments to the poor, and in some cases, records of baptisms, marriages and burials. If your ancestors worked or studied at St. Andrews University, the department also houses the University Muniments, which include information about staff and students from the 15th Century onwards. These records can provide useful details not available anywhere else. If your ancestors owned or worked on a nearby farm, the Special Collections Department has old Ordinance Survey maps (also available in St. Andrews library) which show individual farm steadings.

Further insight into the way your ancestors may have lived and worked can be gained by looking through the records of the North East Fife Burghs, which can include lists of inhabitants, electoral and population details, as well as trade and apprenticeship records. Within the muniments and other collections of family estate papers, you will find records of conveyance and land-ownership, which can be useful for tracing family names and inheritance.

Other records of interest include the Hay Fleming Collection, for local history information; Family & Estate Papers; Valuation rolls; Trade & Post Office Directories; Scottish Newspapers and Monumental Inscriptions. Monumental Inscriptions are a series of publications produced by the Mitchells – a husband & wife team who spent years recording information on pre-1855 gravestones, which were in many cases worn away and only partly legible. They are indexed, so people can check the names of their ancestors in the index, get a transcription of the details on the headstone, and find out where they’re buried.

If your ancestors were involved in the fishing industry a visit to the Scottish Fisheries Museum in Anstruther is a must. As well as providing a real insight into how your ancestors would have lived and worked in sometimes very harsh conditions, the museum houses an impressive photographic and reference library and a chapel dedicated to all those who lost their lives at sea. Volunteers at the museum are happy to carry out a limited amount of preliminary research free of charge. For more information about the museum, visit www.scottish-fisheries-museum.org.

Of course if you don’t have the time to do the research yourself, but you would still like to find out more about your family history, there are a number of local family researchers, such as Fife Rootsearch in St. Andrews, or Scots Family Heritage in Cupar, who know these local archives intimately and for a modest fee can carry out research on your behalf.

If you would like to find out more about how to trace your family roots, or would like to contact one of the researchers mentioned above, visit www.standrews.com/fife/ancestral.htm and download ‘Tracing your Family History in Fife’, which provides all you need to know to get started on your journey back to the past.

Family history research is one of the fastest growing hobbies in the western world Violet Elizabeth Saville (1901-1992), sister Gladys May Saville (1905-1991), and brother Frederick Charles Saville (1902-1961).

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John Martin (1865-1933), and son Cecil Owen Martin (1904-1986).

FEATURES Edwina Proudfoot considers

St Andrew and St Andrews: a personal thought for the day November 30th, 2004 – St. Andrew’s Day – the Anniversary of the death of our patron saint. In the Middle Ages, saints’ days were important occasions in the religious calendar and there were many church ceremonies and processions, which must have added more than a little colour to the often difficult lives of the people as well as offering some time off work. Although other saints, such as St. Ninian and St. Columba, along with numerous Celtic Saints (St. Monan, St. Serf, St. Kentigern, to name only three), brought Christianity to Scotland, it was the reorganisation of the church in the twelfth century that brought us the beginnings of a national church and a new list of saints. It took several centuries for us to fix on St. Andrew as ‘our’ saint. Although important in the foundation myths, it was not until the 13th century that St. Andrew began to assume greater significance.

St. Andrew’s Day has never been a holiday nationwide, and efforts to raise it to national status have been thwarted in the past, perhaps because it was considered unnecessary for the people to have another day off. However, the idea is gathering momentum, if only as a way of increasing visitors to Scotland, and what better time for this than in the year our new Parliament building has been completed! Gordon Christie and the late David Niven arranged a local programme of St. Andrew’s Day events for years, persuading all kinds of organisations to take part, including, for example, an exhibition in the Library – and the University buildings opened. It was rather similar to the now wellknown ‘Doors Open Day’, but it originated years earlier than that project. For many years the

Photograph: Edwina Proudfoot

St. Andrews Preservation Trust opened its Museum on St. Andrew’s Day, with a special exhibition for the occasion, and local people flocked to it, along with a dedicated following from other places. The St. Andrews Society held a lunch and the town buzzed. Recently there has not been such buoyancy, and sadly the St. Andrews Society itself ceased last year.

This has led me to think of another, perhaps surprising, development, the international growth of St. Andrews Societies. Before writing these words I looked up St. Andrews Societies on the internet, where I found about 80 worldwide, particularly in the USA, but wherever Scots have settled. The members of these Societies are interested in Scotland and in St. Andrews for a variety of reasons, because

their ancestors came from Scotland and many feel a bond with Scotland, even after generations.

By a happy coincidence I am writing this on September 22nd, on the day that the new Dictionary of National Biography has been published – and the day that St. Andrew has finally been included among the significant figures of Scotland. Surely we should now all be celebrating our patron saint each November?

Perhaps now is the time to set up a new St. Andrews Society in St. Andrews, both for the people of St. Andrews and locally to promote the place and what it stands for, and to act as a contact point for similar societies around the world – and who knows what economic benefits could flow from that.

Stephanie Stevenson lived in Rhodesia for 9 years, in which time she gained a Degree and a DPhil in History from the then University of Rhodesia. In 1978 she returned to Scotland, to Anstruther, where she still lives. Here she wishes to throw light on an intriguing subject dear to her heart.

Putting the record straight on The Beggar’s Benison

Snuff Box, Beggar’s Benison Collection, Silver plate. Reproduced courtesy of the University of St Andrews. Inside the box is a carefully folded paper which reads: “Hairs from the mons veneris of a Royal Courtesan of George IV. His Majesty was introduced to the Sovereign and Knights of the Beggar’s Benison when he visited Scotland and arrived at the Pier of Leith for the first and last time.”

Throughout the 1980s I gave talks to local clubs on the history of Anstruther, its old houses, charters, and way of life. These were published in 1989 as Anstruther: a History, which has recently been re-issued in paperback [Berlinn, Edinburgh, incorporating John Donald]. I have published in a booklet the chapter on The Most Ancient and Puissant Order of the Knights of the Beggar’s Benison and Merryland, to put it in its proper context. Like the records of Anstruther, the records of the Order are incomplete! All that remains are in a deal box in St. Andrews University, on which I based my talk on the Beggar’s Benison in Cupar.

The Order was founded in 1732 by John McNaughton, Anstruther’s Collector of Customs. He constituted himself Sovereign of the Order,

wearing the green and gold sash at the biannual meetings. It was not, as David Stevenson has said in his book, The Beggar’s Benison, Sex Clubs of the Scottish Enlightenment (Tuckwell Press, 2001) a part of the Scottish Enlightenment, but was in the tradition of 18th century gentlemen’s clubs, which developed in coffee houses from their institution in Oxford in 1650 and in London in 1652. A few of them were political, some like the Medmenham Monks on the Thames, were anti-religious, and indulged their sexuality, but all were convivial, social clubs whose members, for the most part, were of mixed political persuasions. That is probably why the Order lasted so long. David Stevenson’s claims that they were ‘sex clubs’ is all supposition, based on flimsy evidence.

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FEATURES Reine Marie Faure, who comes from Lyons, France, ‘discovered’ Professor Forbes when she came to St. Andrews for the first time three years ago. Subsequently she spent many hours in the University Library pouring over the records and letters in the archive, and she was grateful for all the help she received from the Library staff. Here Reine Marie celebrates the connection, St. Andrews – Chamonix (where her daughter lives), in the form of a letter based on her reading, to the 19th century scientist,

James David Forbes

Chamonix 28 August 2004 Cher Professeur, News from Chamonix. This summer, Chamonix is overcrowded with tourists, the weather is hot and stormy, but some days are really delightful and researching you I have met very nice people.

I arrived on the 7th of this month and on the 11th I went to the Maison de la Montagne, close to the Church. It is the meeting place for the guides and their clients and in August it is very busy, clients coming from everywhere in the world, usually very anxious about the weather, especially when they have planned an excursion to Mont Blanc during their short stay in Chamonix. Shyly I asked about Auguste Balmat, born in 1808... The answer of the young smiling assistant was a real shock, «He was the guide to be honoured by the Company during the Fête des Guides, on the 15th of August.»

I met Xavier Chappaz, the chief guide, the next day, introducing myself as representing Auguste Balmat’s «first client and true friend», Professor Forbes. He greeted me, was not really surprised and said with a bright smile that the Mountain’s history is the product of special encounters..…

On the 13th I decided to ascend to Montenvert, the station you were based in for your observations and scientific measurements on the Mer de Glace. I was not provided with ‘’an excellent mule‘’; I just took the 19th cog railway. It was a sunny and clear morning succeeding a stormy night. I arrived at Montenvert at 9.30, it was still chilly. The tourists were making their way to the shrunken

Mer de Glace; I sought the path leading to the Signal Forbes, the special spot and fine view you were fond of. I first stopped at the Hotel du Montenvert, expecting an espresso to warm me up. It was too early, so I visited the small museum set up in the third floor where there‘s a room dedicated to the scientists who went up the Montenvert in the 18th and early 19th century. There is a portrait of you; a young man with clear eyes on that special Monday, 2nd July 1827, when for the first time you came here.

The party was a family one. It was a splendid day and you enjoyed it very much. The scenery did not disappoint you and you met the old guide Cachat, «surnamed the Géant, from having spent 17 days with Saussure on the tremendous ridge of the Col du Géant, where more that 10,000 feet above the sea he made a long series of experiments.» You conversed a good deal with «the venerable and obliging guide, sharing his admiration for HoraceBénédict de Saussure. You asked questions about the ascent of Mont Blanc and finally requested him to say what he thought of the practicability of the ascent. His answer was to be a support to your personal projects. «People suffer very differently in breathing; if a person is tall, well built, it surely won’t be possible, but a man of moderate size, and slim, can succeed,» and he added, «Avec un beau temps, de bonnes jambes, une bonne bête pour passer les pentes, et avec le bon plaisir de Dieu, on peut le faire.»

I walked quite a long way on the path growing steep and rough, but still beautiful,

lined with flowers. I observed the Forbes strips, white and grey alternating. Only when suddenly dark clouds accumulated and mist rising from the valley struck the peaks, did I remember this scenery being described as « the very horror of nature», and I turned back.

On the 15th – La Fête des Guides – wonderful weather, yet chilly. At 9.30 began a very solemn ceremony in front of the Church. All the guides dressed in new, smart grey uniforms, with their white and blue flag. Four Nepalese dressed in their national costume paid tribute to their late companions. Holy music coming from the Church, the youngest member named all the guides of the Company and the names would have been so familiar to you: Couttet, Payot, and 3 Balmats; Georges, Michel, Lucien.

I must tell you that some women are guides today.

Then, it was Auguste’s homage. The orator praised his climbing agility, his interest in the scientific involvement of his clients and friends, his courage and loyalty.

The sky was a deep blue, light and shade on le Dôme du Gouté, les Aiguilles, le Mont Blanc du Tacul, la Lechère, the famous Brèvent perform a wonderful combination. Cher Professeur, I add to this homage a personal feeling for the two young men you were and to your friendship.

I am happy to have been, thanks to strange circumstances, « a temporary bridge».

Commemorative plaque, South Court, St. Andrews

The photos and translations are the author’s.

The extracts courtesy the University Library.

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FEATURES St. Andrews Museum Panel modestly claims it’s

Stumped Again!

Yet another recent enquiry has left us scratching our heads. Perhaps a St Andrews in Focus reader can help here ?

Incidentally, while we are always happy to try to identify an object or photograph, we really need to be able to examine the object or photograph in question. It’s impossible to make an accurate identification from a written or verbal description, however graphic !

Q: I have seen a photograph (circa 1890) of the Swilken Bridge which shows a line of houses behind what is now the 18th Green, adjacent to the R. & A. and opposite Hamilton Hall. What became of them and when were they demolished ?

A: We have checked the Ordnance Survey maps of St Andrews for 1854 and 1893, but could find no indication of a line of houses such as you describe. (That is not to say, of course, that they did not exist at some point between these two dates.) It would be helpful if you could provide us with a copy of the photograph in question so that we can give a more informed opinion.

Q: I have in my possession an old document which refers to a piece of land as being, “59 falls 2 ells Scotch measure”. What were these measurements and how much is this today ?

A. Prior to the Act of Union in 1707, Scotland had a separate and distinct system of weights and measures. In fact, although English weights and measures were introduced in 1707, the legislation was largely ignored and Scots measures continued to be used, in some instances, as late as the second half of the nineteenth century.

Scottish measures were slightly larger than imperial equivalents.

An ell, for example, was equal to 37 inches Scots and slightly longer than 37 imperial inches. (Under a twelfth century Scots statute, an inch was defined as the length of three barleycorns – without the tails.)

In terms of land measurement, 36 ells = 1 fall; 40 falls = 1 rood and 4 roods = 1 acre. So the piece of land in your document was a little less than half an acre.

Q: Do you have any information about Provost Paterson who owned Kinburn House at the end of the 19th century ?

A. John Ewing Paterson was born at St. Ninians, near Stirling, about 1837, but spent his working life as an ironmaster in Whitehaven in Cumberland. In 1872 he retired to St. Andrews where he bought Kinburn House as his family home. He was elected to St. Andrews Town Council in 1873 and served two terms as Provost from 1887 until 1893. He died in 1898.

He should not be confused with the OTHER John Paterson (c.1820-1896) who was owner and headmaster of Clifton Bank School on The Scores, and who also served two terms as Provost of St. Andrews.

Can anyone help Stan Reed, who emailed the following query? Answers to the Editor please.

Some 3 or 4 years ago the P7 class at Greyfriars was studying WWII. In the course of this the Nelson St. bombing was raised as a local issue. I went to the library and copied out all the references I could find in the press on the subject. The Citizen of August 15th.1942 had a long and fairly detailed article on the bombing. In this it was stated that, “The funerals of seven of the victims of the raid took place last Sunday. The black caskets were borne to the cemetery on A.R.P. vehicles covered with flowers and were buried in one large grave”. I then took the class to the County Buildings burials office to trace the whereabouts of this large grave. The burials office have no trace of such a burial. Asking around the town did no better, no-one seemed to have any recollection of what appears to have been quite some procession if the list of dignitaries etc. attending is anything to go by.

We had intended visiting the said grave, but we could not even find out which cemetery was used. A further mystery is that, reading the death columns in The Citizen between 10th. and 15th. August 1942 there only appears to be three people whose burials are unaccounted for.

Another problem:- some years ago I was told that the green patch in the wedge at the top of Greenside Place was also a bombed cottage, have you any record of this? Apart from being told this so long ago that I even forget who told me, I have found no evidence to back it up, is it an “urban legend”?

Laurel Aguilar has kindly written in to tell us about the Kinnessburn Road shell decoration which we featured in the last issue.

A friend brought your article for the Museum Panel to my attention, especially about the shell wall on the Kinnessburn Road.

I must confess I am responsible for that wall, and it is only about four months old. The idea for it, though, came from the shell wall in Anstruther, and from walking my Westie dogs on the East Sands.

The property has been renovated over the summer, and the cement block wall was an eyesore I was trying to improve. Over about a year I collected shells and bits of pottery from the beach, and decided to put them to good use So, I will tell you about the design: The patterns come from African rock paintings and house decorations, particularly from Malawi where I once lived. The shades of white, earthen reds and grey-black are highly symbolic in the African cosmology of creation, life, death, and renewal of life. These same colours and motifs are re-created from Scottish beaches.

The black lines are the lizards that live in water and on land, and the shell design begins at the bottom with the earth beneath the sea, the deep waters, then the shiny surface waters and the lizards emerging from the waters on to the ’beach’ of limpet shells. The lizards’ legs, toes, and head are in interesting threes – like three rivers, a trinity that in African cosmology reflects the wisdom of God. The line of pottery is ‘humanity’ , a thin line in the larger Universe, of man-made work torn asunder over time and brought back to the surface in small pieces. From these man-made works, buildings and progress on the earth’s surface, the motifs rise to the white of the sky, and the source of all energy and light in the centre of the concentric circles. From this point of creation and light, all the world radiates. In much of central Africa, these circles are like the python snake, a seer that breathes the rainbow, a sign of rains, and therefore, good harvest and life. Signs of life, male and female symbols, surround the radiating light, and the whole of the work is framed by the same white shells.

For me, it is a unity of Scotland’s seas and African hills – two worlds that are historically linked, and linked in my own life. For any new owner of the house, it is whatever they wish it to be, even if they choose to cover it up. For this art, it is the conception and the making of it that is most meaningful. I should add, it is deliberately asymmetrical in places, as perfect symmetry belongs to God. I would be most pleased if people enjoy it! I enjoyed doing it, with the help of friends who gathered shells with me, and the builder who mixed the cement and showed me how to use the trowels. Thanks to your reader who sent the letter, for noticing it!

* * * * * * * * * * *

Another reader in St. Andrews got in touch, and kindly allowed us to photograph a building in his garden entirely covered in shell designs.

The history of this building is not known, but it has evidently existed for some time with several changes of ownership. Since the walled garden is private, tucked behind its house, the current owner has asked to remain anonymous.

31

FEATURES

The Town Council – Royal Burgh of St. Andrews Mr. A. C. Rutherford designed several things, including the development and registration of the wide wheel for golf carts (the original pram wheels damaged the fabric of golf courses). His company paid the LinksTrust a royalty for the use of the name, “The St. Andrews Wheel”. At the same time, new tee boxes (in current use) were designed, registered, and assigned to the LinksTrust. Mr. Rutherford also co-designed highway signs and reflective number plates; the trade description was Verylite. All these reflective products are now produced by 3M’s Scotchlite.

Here he reflects on other days ‘lang syne’.

When we came to live in St. Andrews in the late sixties, having sold my company, Safeticurb Ltd., which specialised in surface water drainage and reflective signs, I had little intention of becoming involved with local government affairs in the town. Already I had served as a councillor and magistrate in Dunbartonshire and Kirkintilloch, while still a consultant to Charcon (now Aggregate Industries). I was looking forward to playing more golf, and fishing.

This was not to be. I was approached by Myra Haxton, who incidentally with Cathie Niven, taught me how to dive at the Step Rock Pool way back in 1936; the Haxtons (grocers) and Nivens (butchers) were well-known in St. Andrews. Both families were excellent swimmers, and everything else that went with sport. Myra represented a powerful group of ladies who were anxious to recruit new blood on the Council; and to an extent I was rather bullied by the ladies, to stand against the sitting member in the Central Ward, who happened to be the secretary of the University.

All the candidates were invited to attend and speak to a large turn-out at the Town Hall, and we were “taken”, in alphabetical order. Rutherford followed Ritchie, and I had no difficulty in winning the seat, much to the displeasure of the Town Clerk and a number of established councillors. Turbulent times were fast approaching, and we were about to lose our burgh status. Sadly, several of the councillors were quite content to hand over our precious assets to the District Council. I voted against this and had the support of several councillors. However, I needed six, excluding my vote, to approve various plans I put forward, and this took months of heated meetings to achieve. I was shouted at, “have faith councillor Rutherford!” I had faith

all right, but of a different nature! I remember on one occasion moving the suspension of standing orders to enable the Council to re-consider a delicate decision. The Town Clerk said, “ We don’t do that here,” and the majority of councillors didn’t know what it meant!!!

My main concern was the Links, and who should own it and run it.

By law, the land became the property of the District Council (now the Regional Council). The R&A had rights and had to be consulted and were agreeable to setting up a Links Trust, which required an Act of Parliament. This eventually came to pass in 1974 with, I believe, some background assistance from Willie Whitelaw. At the end of the day I do believe everybody in St. Andrews benefited from the 1974 Links Act. The Council appointed me Roads and Lighting Convenor and with Bill Duncan the excellent Burgh Surveyor, we carried out some major improvements at the Bruce Embankment, changing the shape of the road, thus removing two sharp corners and reclaiming several acres at the far end of the West Sands Road by means of a controlled tip. Provost Niven had a nasty habit of interfering with work in progress, and other projects entrusted to the roads committee; later we became friends. John Gilchrist followed David Niven as the last Provost of the town and got a doctorate from the University. Sad that David Niven missed out on this, as he had done so much for the town. My roads committee closed College Street, and created several one-way streets and provided parking for propertyowning resident rate-payers; this became troublesome over the years, principally through lack of police enforcement.

St. Andrews was a wealthy burgh, and one of the lowest rated in Scotland, and we also had valuable assets, which could have benefited the town before our new masters took possession. I consulted a wellknown journalist, Tom Jarrett, about matters of this nature and was reminded of things we failed to do.

I was anxious to acquire the land and site of the Health Centre in Rose Park and City Park, where ample parking facilities were available both for the Centre and the public. The arising complications shattered my hope. The development of the Eden Estuary was another project which failed to take off, the idea being to reclaim about 250 acres of land and build a new road from Cuthils Farm to link up with Outhead at the far end of the West Sands Road. Not only would this have provided protection from erosion, it would have lessened the traffic in the town and made it easier to approach the Old, New, and Jubilee courses, as well as the West Sands. We formed a British and American group headed by Robert Trent Jones, the famous golf course architect, who offered his services free. Bruce Galloway CA, Hugh Sprot, Donald Legget, and I, were the promoters of the plan, which sadly failed to attract attention. A Dutch firm of engineers flew up to St. Andrews, inspected the site in almost gale conditions, took measurements from the 9th tee on the new course with their theodolite, and agreed that the courses needed better protection, and that if the sea broke through, it would do so between the 9th tee, where we were standing, and the 9th green on the new course, and find its way to the shell bunker on the Old Course. We all thought this would set the alarm bells ringing, but...

I was shouted at, “have faith councillor Rutherford”

Devilish tales from the Pulpit Contributed by The Rev’d Seumas There was a young minister with a splendid wife, who was apt to spend too much on new clothes – a failing she (finally) admitted.

She agreed not to buy anything without first consulting her husband.

Then she went up to town and returned with an expensive new dress! “My Dear,” admonished her husband, “you promised me!”

“I know,” she smiled, “but the Devil tempted me.” “But,” rejoined her husband, “you should have said, ’Get behind me Satan.’”

“Oh, but I did,” came the reply, “only he whispered, ‘It fits so beautifully at the back!’”

* * * * * * * * *

A well-known minister was to give a television talk about the Devil. For purposes of visual illustration at the beginning, a photograph of Leonardo da Vinci’s fearsome painting, ‘The Prince of Hell’ was flashed upon the screen. However, there was a mixup in the captions, so that over the face of the Devil appeared, not the words, ‘The Prince of Hell’, but instead, ‘The Reverend Doctor.’ Afterwards, an old lady gratuitously informed the minister that, “the picture was michty like you!”

32

“The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ men Gang aft a-gley,”

FEATURES Mrs. Margaret Jardine opens a window on her

Memories of St. Andrews chatting to Lucy Paget-tomlinson St. Andrews is a town filled with memories. Steeped in the past, it contains within its walls the memories of all its residents, no matter how brief their stay. Some people, however, can claim to have a memory that stretches back over 80 years. One such person is Mrs. Margaret Jardine. Born in Mrs Margaret Jardine, St. Andrews she has lived here all photo by Lucy Paget-tomlinson her life and knows the streets like her back garden.

Mrs. Jardine was born Margaret Gray in 1919 and grew up in Hepburn Gardens, where her family ran a dairy farm. She told me that as a child she remembers taking the cows out to graze at Lade Braes and how, when no-one was looking, she would take a skimmer to the cream in the bowls (these were laid out in the dairy to let the cream form overnight); when she wanted a drink of milk she would go to the first cow in the byre and “scoot it into my mug”!

Her childhood sounded beautifully pastoral and so simple compared to the complications of the modern world but, despite this image of an idyllic country life, it was clear as I talked to Mrs. Jardine that it was the town of St. Andrews that was closest to her heart.

We rambled through the town looking at photographs on loan from Mr. David Joy and while the buildings were familiar there was an air of quiet elegance about South Street that is now lost under the endless stream of cars. Mrs. Jardine joked that in those

days “you’d die of exposure before being knocked down in the street.”

Now you take your life in your hands when you step out of the front door.

But lack of cars aside, it was strangely eerie to see the streets peopled with ladies in long skirts holding parasols, and golfing gentlemen in waistcoats and knickerbockers, even more so when I considered that the person I was sitting with had been there too.

Mrs. Jardine’s memory of St. Andrews is filled with the grandeur of the old hotels and the private houses of the local gentry. Now the houses are University halls or luxury flats, when once they were run by armies of servants and visited by passing royalty. Mrs. Jardine spent over 58 years working for Mrs. Tynte in South Street and it was there she witnessed visits from Danish and Swedish Royalty. Today, our resident Royal aside, we are more used to seeing film stars and musicians wandering about.

Having lived here for over 80 years, Mrs. Jardine still has her finger very much on the pulse of modern St. Andrews.

Her visits to The Whey Pat Tavern for a “wee toot” and a “wee chat” keep her up to date with all the goings on, and it was clear from our conversation that she never misses a trick and is sharp as a knife when it comes to local affairs. We talked of contemporary problems mostly connected with “progress”, and St. Andrews certainly has its fair share; too much traffic, too little accomodation, and our council based all the way out at Glenrothes. None the less, our town seems to have retained most of its former glory. It’s true that we can’t bring back the fishing traditions or bring down the house prices, but we can continue to do our best for St. Andrews and value its longest standing residents, who have much to tell us about the past, and the present.

Having lived here for over 80 years, Mrs. Jardine still has her finger very much on the pulse of modern St. Andrews.

Designed by Ariane Buchan, age 7

33

FEATURES FEATURES

The Christmas Visitor by

by Lucy Lucy Paget-tomlinson Paget-tomlinson

The sound of a sharp rap at the door woke me out of my reverie. It was Christmas Eve and I was standing in what would eventually become my living room, a kettle in one hand and a tea bag in the other, desperately hoping to find some kind of receptacle to put them in. A visitor was the last thing I was expecting, or needing. I had moved up to the East of Scotland precisely because I didn’t have any acquaintances for miles around and no one would bother me.

I stood amidst the piles of cardboard boxes and rubbish that were scattered gloomily about the room, waiting to be housed and wondered if perhaps I had imagined it. Then another rap came. It was louder this time, and with growing impatience I put the kettle and the bag down next to each other on top of a box marked with a large question mark and several exclamation marks, and clambered out to the hall. The path to the door was littered with more boxes and I stumbled towards the handle in the dark, cursing the curiosity, or Christmas spirit, or whatever it was that had sent this person to my front door so late on Christmas Eve. “Yes?” I said rather crossly through a six inch crack that was as far as the door would open. There didn’t seem to be anything there, only the strong odour of smoked haddock. The yellow street lamp outside my front door had dwindled down to a tiny reddish ooze of light that bounced off the thick blanket of dark night. “Yes?” I said again, adding “Can I help you?” as an afterthought because my gruffness may have deterred them and I didn’t want to make a bad impression on my new neighbourhood.

“Good evening. I was just wanting to welcome you to the house and to offer you a wee drop of soup,” came a little cracked voice. Opening the door a little further and squashing the boxes against the wall I stepped out to greet my unwelcome visitor.

“That’s very kind,” I said peering out into the gloom, “Its rather dark, the streetlights don’t seem to be working.”

“Aye”, responded the voice. I realised that whoever it was must be standing at the bottom of my steps. My new house was an old fisherman’s house with the front door on the first floor and a flight of steps up to it. As I became accustomed to the dark I saw the dim outline of an old woman on the bottom step with a large pot in her arms. She was smiling and as I began to stumble down the steps she made her way up to me. “Oh please don’t put yourself out. You might fall in this dark. It’s very kind of you.” “Ach, it’s no trouble,” she said, shuffling up the steps without even a glance at where she put her feet. “I’m used to this. Don’t you worry. Just you get up there and we’ll have a drop of this to warm us up. You must be fair freezing in there on your own.” I tried to protest, but before I could gather my thoughts she was through the door and into the house and I could only trot after her shivering. “You’ll have to get some warm things if you’re planning on staying here a while,” she called from the depths of my house.

I went into the kitchen at the back and found her with the pot on the table and scrabbling around in the boxes, presumably for some bowls. I stood impatiently by the door wondering if it would be rude to ask what she thought she was doing in my kitchen. As I watched her moving about she seemed so at home that I began to feel that I was the stranger and not she. She was a small dumpy woman, as broad as she was long and was protected from the biting sea winds by a large, dark blue wrap. It looked like something you might drape across the end of the bed or over a sofa and seemed to cover most of her. She seemed to be wearing some kind of black dress underneath and I noticed a pair of neat little black walking boots peeking out from under the ends of the shawl.

“Really this isn’t necessary,” I said. “It’s very kind of you, but you really musn’t bother yourself.”

“Nae bother,” she said comfortably and began to stir the pot with a large wooden spoon that she had produced from somewhere. “It smells interesting. What is it?” I wondered, as the fumes of haddock began to fill the small kitchen.

“Cullen Skink,” she replied, and then when I looked non-plussed, “haddock soup with leeks and potatoes.” I watched her stir the soup with a strong swift action while I sat at the table feeling about four years old again.

34

“So you’ve just moved in,” she said, handing me a bowl. I took it and sniffed at it suspiciously. “Yes,” I said. “I know it seems an odd time to move, what with it being Christmas tomorrow, but I thought it would be quiet.” “Have you no family to be with?” she asked, sitting down heavily opposite me. “Yes,” I said awkwardly, “but it’s complicated. I’m not really a Christmas person and they are, so you know...” It sounded rather a lame excuse, but I didn’t feel it necessary to relate all my family problems to this complete stranger. “I’m no much for the family either,” she said, “but it’s nice to have a crowd around you at Christmas time.” “I suppose so.

It’s just not my thing. I like my independence,” I said and she just nodded.

We sat and sipped at our hot soup for some moments not speaking.

I wondered why she was here with me and not with her own family. “It’s very public-spirited of you to visit a complete stranger on Christmas eve,” I said, the soup beginning to make me feel more cheerful. “Aye well, I have a soft spot for this hoose, I used to live here you know.”

“Really?” I said, curious to know more. “Aye. So I thought I’d come along and welcome you, a person shouldn’t be on their own at Christmas.” “Do you live alone?” I asked, after another mouthful of sweet warm Cullen Skink.

She smiled. “I used to, but now there’s a fair few of us and we have a good time of it.” “I see,” I said, and was about to enquire further when she heaved herself out of the seat. “I must be away. You have a quiet night, you look like you could do with a good sleep.” “Oh no,” I protested, trying to get up. “I’ve far too much to be getting on with. Anyhow, I’m a bit of an insommniac as it happens.” “Well,” she smiled, “as you like, but I’ve a feeling that tomorrow will be a grand day so I recommend a walk down to the harbour, there’s usually something going on of a Christmas morning.”

‘I’ll think about it,” I said, and followed her out to the door.

It wasn’t until she had gone that I realised I hadn’t even asked for her name and address so I could thank her for the soup. I closed the door after her and went back into my living room to where the kettle and tea bag were still sitting dejectedly on the box. “No doubt I’ll see her around,” I thought. The warm soup had given me such a cosy, sleepy feeling that I had absolutely no desire to do any more unpacking. I had planned to spend Christmas Eve and Day organising and planning my new home so that by the time all the ‘festivities’ would be over I’d be settled in my new secret nest and it would be as if Christmas had never happened. Instead, I pulled out my sleeping bag and curled up on the living room floor to sleep off this strange lethargic feeling I had suddenly acquired.

When I finally awoke there was a bright white light filling my living room. I stretched and felt as though I had slept for about a hundred years. I hadn’t had one of those deep, dreamless sleeps since I was a child. I began to move stiffly about the house, found a mug and made some tea, but rather than continue the unpacking, I took my tea out onto the steps and settled halfway down them, with a blanket over my shoulders. It was bitterly cold, but bright and sunny, and I felt oddly at home on my steps with my tea cradled between my fingers and the church bells tolling in the distance.

I never saw the old woman again, but three weeks later one of my other neighbours came round with some old photographs of my house that she had scanned on her computer. “I thought you might be interested,” she said, handing me the sheaf of papers. “We run quite a good vernacular building group here and there’s a good deal of information on this house, being one of the oldest in the village.” I took the papers inside and spread them out on my kitchen table. I had never been much for history, but the sight of my house in sepia with groups of fisher people and ragged children standing outside sent shivers through me. As I came to the last photograph I froze. There, sitting on my steps with a large pot by her side and a kitten at her feet, was the old lady wrapped in her large shawl. She was smiling, and underneath her the date read, 1804.

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