Austin Food Magazine - Fall 2014

FALL 2014

FROM TUSCANY TO TEXAS Austin’s Pizza Evolution | Dolce Neve’s Gelato Indulgence | Recipes From Italia

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FALL 2014

CONTENTS 6

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

10 CONTRIBUTORS 12 TOAST OF THE TOWN

Social Events

15 HERBIVOROUS EATERS

Don't Tell Them It's Vegan

16

ITALIAN VEGAN RECIPE

21

TASTEFUL CREATIONS

Cooking with Trish 26 ROVING APPETITES

Three Little PIgs | Way South Philly

28 CELEBRITY SPOTLIGHT

Child Chef | Brandon Scawthorne

30

GET YOUR CHEF TOGETHER

In The Kitchen

33 SIP IT

6

Austin Cocktails

ByeJoe Spirits

36 LETS TAKE IT OUTSIDE

Travaasa Farm

42 TRAVEL

Hotel Ella: Goodalls

68 THE SWEET SPOT

Dolce Neve

The Cupcake Bar

72 UP IN SMOKE

Micklethwait Craft Meats

76 CHEF'S INNER CIRCLE

Kent Rathbun

79 A LA CARTE

Cold Brew Coffee

80 TASTEFUL TECH

NoWait App

81 SAVOR OUR FLAVOR

TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Must Visit

Austin Food Magazine

FEATURES

54

APPARECCHIA LA TAVOLA Vespaio

48

BUON APPETITO Andiamo

61

PIZZERIA Homeslice

austinfoodmagazine.com

FALL 2014

7

LE T T E R F ROM T H E E DI TOR

AUSTIN’S ITALIAN CRAVE

BY HAYDEN WALKER

AMIDST THE BEVY OF AMAZING TEXAS BARBECUE, Tex­Mex dishes and cozy food trucks we have to choose from in Austin, many of us crave more culture in our cuisine options. No major city in the United States can rightfully call itself a serious food town without considering its selection of italian cuisine. Despite what some may consider as “typical” italian food, Papa John’s and Olive Garden are not the only cynical options we have available when considering one of the most influential cuisines in world history. There’s no such thing as common food in Italy’s old country. Italians have a deep love for traditional cooking that is anything but clichéd.

Arguably the most influential of all cuisine in Europe, Italian food and the influence of its techniques and flavors have become as much of a staple in American culture as it is across the pond. Generations of Italian families have migrated to Texas, preserving their own style of classic recipes and methods their ancestors have passed on. As a result, there’s a stellar collection of fine italian cuisine across the city that even the most snobbish of food critics in Austin can savor.

As a an avid food writer and enthusiast, the most common question is always, “What’s your favorite restaurant?” Given that my exposure to Italian food in our city has spanned a small spectrum from slices on Sixth to unlimited salad and breadsticks at lunch, Italian fare never made it high atop the list. It is not because I did not enjoy the options in town, but more so because I didn’t realize the options were so damn good! After hours of research (tasting, savoring and indulging) I am singing a slightly different tune. The local italian cuisine may never engulf my enormous favoritism toward the central Texas barbecue machine, but it has rekindled my enthusiasm.

HAYDEN WALKER, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

PHOTO BY COURTNE Y PIERCE

Austin may never rival the culinary metropolises in the number of options one has for quality Italian cuisine, but variety does not always trump quality. After enjoying this issue, I hope you will appreciate the superb italian cuisine our city has to offer.

While we were able to explore a few options you’ll read about, I hope it will encourage you to explore the diverse terrain for yourself. After hours of “research”, strangely, I still have no idea which of Austin’s Italian dining options is my favorite. I suppose it’s time for more research. Hope to see you there!

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FALL 2014

MORE CONTENTS

PUBLISHERS

Shawn K. Lively, Robert Sek

EDITORIAL TEAM EDITOR IN CHIEF Hayden Walker ASSOCIATE EDITOR Andrea Haughton CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Daniel Ramirez, Trish Wesevich, Kristen Sheppard, Taylor Butler, Hayden Walker, Meagan Vitek, Alisha McDarris, Andrea Haughton, Rory McNeil, Markia Flatt, Amy Drohen, Janet McCullar, Lela Jamalabad (Intern) RECIPE CONTRIBUTER Trish Wesevich

16

ART & PRODUCTION ART DIRECTOR Kamryn Walden WEB DESIGN Hayden Walker CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Becky Kittleman, Courtney Pierce, Alisha McDaris, Kristin Sheppard, Colton Stark

21

36

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR HAYDEN@AUSTINFOODMAGAZINE.COM

SUBSCRIPTIONS & ADVERTISING EMAIL US AT SUBSCRIPTIONS@AUSTINFOODMAGAZINE.COM OR SUBSCRIBE ONLINE AT AUSTINFOODMAGAZINE.COM

JOB INQUIRIES/INTERNS INFO@AUSTINFOODMAGAZINE.COM

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AUSTIN FOOD MAGAZINE IS AUSTIN OWNED AND OPERATED. PUBLISHED BY AUSTIN FOOD, INC. © TM 2014 AUSTIN FOOD, INC.

42

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

68 12

TUSCANY IN TEXAS

72

Austin Food Magazine

KEEPING

CATERING

Cory Ryan Photography

Cory Ryan Photography

twisted

(512) 248-8771 | info@CateringWithATwist.com FOR FULL MENU AND MORE, VISIT: www.CateringWithaTwist.com

AUSTIN FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

LEFT TO RIGHT | 1. Graham Elliot, Richard Blais, Ming Tsai, Christina Grdovic, Andrew Zimern 2. Jane Ko 3. Tim Love 4. Chef Ming Tsai 5. Andrew Zimmern 6. David Bull 7. Richard Blais (2014 Rock your Taco Winner) 8. Tyson Cole

14

TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

TOA S T O F T H E TOWN | S O C I AL E V E N T S

CHEFS DINNER

CHEFS DINNER WITH Roman Murphy, Ben Edgerton, Andrew Wiseheart, Chef Scot Loranc, Carol Huntsberger, Brandon and Yelena Scawthorn.

GELATO WORLD TOUR 2014 GELATO WORLD TOUR STOPS IN AUSTIN FOR IT'S ONLY NORTH AMERICAN VISIT. Sixteen of the best gelato artisans from the United States competed to create the worlds best gelato flavor.

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FALL 2014

15

H E RB I VO RO US E AT E RS | D ON ' T T ELL T H E M I T ' S V EG A N

Don’t Tell Them it’s

Vegan

BY ALISHA MCDARRIS

I

t happens all the time: You spend hours on those meatless balls and homemade sauce, go to three different stores to find vegan cream cheese for your 7-layer dip, decorate the prettiest cupcakes on the table, and all that’s missing at the end of the party is one and a half servings.

You go to all the trouble of preparing a nice side dish or dessert for the get-together and the attendees don’t touch a thing. They don’t hover over and think maybe if I have room on my paper plate after I fill it with more delicious things. They won’t revisit your contribution when they come back for seconds. They may even step two feet away from the table when they reach the casserole dish with your name on it as if there were an impenetrable force field surrounding it.

Then you end up hauling a nearly full bowl of your jalapeño-papaya couscous that’s way too much for your family of two to polish off before it goes bad back to the car after the cookout simply because you told everybody it was vegan.

That’s right. Omnivores hear the word and run. They run as far and as fast as they can, all while peering over their shoulder to make some kind of vegetarian joke or sad excuse for why they couldn’t possibly try your eggplant stack (You think I maintain this figure by eschewing meat? He says while patting his beer belly or Somebody’s got to eat beef or cows will over populate the planet).

Solution: Don’t tell them it’s vegan. Ever. Seriously. Unless, of course, those cookies or hearts of palm cakes are so unfathomably delectable that you secretly hoped no one would eat them so you could have them all to yourself. Because that’s what will happen the minute you utter the V-word.

austinfoodmagazine.com

A l i s h a Mc D arri s There’s some stigma with most meat-eaters (not all, mind you, but most) that makes them believe that if they ingest a side dish not dripping in mayo or soaked in bacon grease that the moon will eclipse the sun, dogs will start walking around on their hind legs, and they’ll immediately be transformed into a scrawny specimen with pale skin, organic cotton pants and a head scarf.

I haven’t done any case studies to figure out why they believe these things to be true, but it appears that they do. Which is why they won’t touch a vegan side-dish with a nine and a half foot pole. Unless! They don’t know it’s vegan. In fact, most omnivores wouldn’t know vegan if it jumped out of a compost bin, gave them a healthy dose of vitamin c, and filled their bellies to capacity. If they don’t know that you used Veganaise in that potato salad or coconut milk for whipped cream, they may even enjoy their meal. Then, when they sit back, stretch out their legs, rub their full belly and state how delicious everything was (especially the peanut butter balls), then you can tell them it’s vegan and sit back and enjoy their looks of shock and surprise.

So the next time you’re invited to a backyard BBQ or dinner party, come prepared and don’t tell them it’s vegan.

FALL 2014

17

H E RB I VO RO US E AT E RS | I TAL I A N V EG A N RECIPE

ITALIAN CUISINE. The mere thought of it is enough to strike fear and dread into the hearts of vegans everywhere.

Between the cream-based sauces, beef-stock soaked veggies and ubiquitous parmesan, an animal product-free Italian dish can be hard to come by. And lets be honest: spaghetti with marinara can get old and it can get old quick. But fear not! The next time someone suggests heading out for Italian, suggest staying in and try this delectable recipe for a completely vegan, homemade variety of a beloved pasta dish. - Alisha McDarris

MUSHROOM RAVIOLI WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATO CREAM SAUCE PASTA 3 cups whole wheat flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 3/4 cups water (+ 3 tablespoons water) 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

INSTRUCTIONS In a medium bowl, combine flour and salt until well mixed. Form a small well in the middle and pour in the whisked mixture of ¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons of water and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Slowly mix the wet and dry ingredients until the dough is thick enough to knead, then do so for 5-8 minutes. Form it into a ball then let it sit, covered, for 10 minutes.

After it has rested, split the dough into two equal parts and use a pasta maker to roll out the dough per your maker’s instructions. If you don’t have this handy device, grab a rolling pin and start rolling on a surface dusted with flour. You want each strip to be long and narrow, about 6 inches wide.

After the dough has been rolled thin, but not so thin that it will break apart when you fill it or lift it from the board, cut into squares and top half of them with the mushroom filling in mounds of about 1-2 teaspoons.

Moisten the edges of the pasta or wonton wrappers with water to help it stick together then lay the a pasta square or another wrapper on top, gently pressing down around each pile of filling, being careful to get as much air out as possible. Score around the edges of each ravioli with a fork.

Now you can either freeze the ravioli and cook it later or gently place 4-5 at a time in salted boiling water for 6 minutes or until they float.

Remove them carefully with a slotted spoon or flipper and place on cooling rack to drain for a few moments.

When the ravioli is no longer soggy, arrange on plates or bowls, drizzle with the cream sauce and enjoy! I promise it will be wellworth the effort!

Note: Don’t be afraid of making your own. It’s not as hard as it looks, though you will need a fair amount of countertop space.

However, if it seems a feat equal to summiting Everest, run out and grab some wonton wrappers from your local grocery store (usually near the tofu).

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

H E RB I VO RO US E AT E RS | I TAL I A N V EG A N RECIPE

FILLING

CREAM SAUCE

8 ounces of finely chopped mushrooms

1/4 onion, diced

1 cup onion, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 15 oz can coconut milk

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup water

1/2 cup raw cashews

1/2 cup raw cashews

1/2 cup water

2 tablespoons nutritional yeast flakes

1 tablespoon fresh Italian parsley (minced)

1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon cornstarch (or arrowroot powder or flour)

INSTRUCTIONS Sauté mushrooms and onions in olive oil until tender and most of the water has evaporated. Add the garlic just before the vegetables are finished cooking. In a blender or food processor combine the cashews, water and salt and blend until the mixture is creamy and smooth. Combine the sauce mixture with the mushroom mixture and cook on medium for around 5 minutes until the cream sauce has thickened. Set it aside for placement in your ravioli squares.

Note: It’s delicious, but be careful not to overfill the ravioli squares or they will fall apart when you cook them.

1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped

INSTRUCTIONS Sauté the onion in olive oil for a few minutes until translucent, then add the garlic and cook for a minute more.

In a blender or food processor combine the water, coconut milk, cashews, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, cornstarch and salt until smooth. Pour into the sautéed vegetable mixture and whisk as it comes to a boil. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and let it all boil together for 3-5 minutes until the sauce has thickened.

Note: Creamy, delicious and flavorful, a little goes a long way.

austinfoodmagazine.com

FALL 2014

19

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Taste of Tuscany WRIT TEN BY TRISH WESEVICH ARCHITECTURAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY BECK Y KIT TLEMAN CULINARY PHOTOGRAPHY BY COURTNEY PIERCE

E

mbracing the true culinary culture of Italy requires passion and creativity.

Combining a few savory recipes created by Chef Trish Wesevich, a luxurious Tuscan style home nestled in the Texas Hill Country, and a passion for authentic italian cuisine provides the setting for a breathtaking journey to Italy. Commissioning world­class porcelain selections by Judy Blair Interiors and Chef Trish’s vision of classic italian cuisine proves one can bring the taste of Tuscany to Texas.

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FALL 2014

23

TA S T E FU L CRE AT I O N S | CO OK ING W I T H T R ISH

CHICKEN BAKED WITH FIGS & OLIVES SERVED WITH ROASTED BROCCOLINI CHICKEN BAKED WITH FIGS & OLIVES 4 boneless chicken breasts 6 dried figs or 6 fresh figs, halved 1/2 cup pitted black olives 2 tbls. balsamic vinegar 2 tbls. olive oil 10 basil leaves salt & pepper Pound chicken breasts until about 1/2” thick and even all around. Place in shallow, oven­proof dish and pour over chicken all remaining ingredients. Let marinade for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Place dish in oven and bake for 25 minutes.

Serves 4.

ROASTED BROCCOLINI 1­to 2 bunches Broccolini Olive Oil Pine Nuts salt & pepper Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Heat 2 tbls olive oil in sauté pan and toast pine nuts until just golden. Cut off tough, bottom stem of broccolini and coat with olive oil making sure flowering ends are well coated.

Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Roast in oven on sheet pan for 25 minutes or until broccolini is crispy and caramelized yet tender. Top with toasted pine nuts.

By Trish Wesevich

24

TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

TA S T E FU L CRE AT I O N S | CO OK ING W I T H T R ISH

LAMB LOIN CHOPS COOKED IN TOMATOES WITH BASIL PESTO SERVED WITH GURGUGLIONE LAMB LOIN CHOPS WITH BASIL PESTO 6 lamb loin chops 1 to 2 ­ upper leg lamb bones 4­to 5 large cloves garlic, peeled but not chopped 1 small white onion finely chopped 2 lbs ripe, fresh San Marzano tomatoes 1 can diced San Marzano tomatoes olive oil bay leaf, thyme and parsley sea salt and freshly ground black pepper GURGUGLIONE Gurguglione is a traditional side dish in Tuscany served with grilled meats and fish.

4 large mushrooms, cut into quarters 4 Roma tomatos, quartered 1 large zucchini, cut into 2 ­inch chunks 1 yellow squash, cut into 2 ­inch chunks 1 red bell pepper, cut into strips 9­to 10 cloves of whole peeled garlic 1/4 cup Olive Oil 1/2 cup Balsamic Vinegar

In a large pot, heat 2 tbls olive oil. Brown loin chops on each side in olive oil after sprinkling with salt and pepper. 2 to ­3 minutes each side. Remove from pan. Brown lamb bones and remove from pan.

Saute onion on low in same pot on low for 5 to 7 ­ minutes or until almost golden. Do not let brown.

Add garlic the last minute and stir. Return lamb and lamb bones to the pot. Mix in dice tomatoes and cook down for 2 minutes. Add canned tomatoes, 1 bay leaf, 1 tsp thyme and 1 tbls parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Close pot tightly and simmer on low for 2 hours stirring occasionally. Once ready, remove lamb bones. Spread pesto over lamb and serve. Serves 6 PESTO SAUCE

Sea Salt & Freshly Ground Pepper

2 to 3 ­ garlic cloves Combine vegetables in one large mixing bowl.

Pour in the vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper and let marinade for 30 minutes. Spread on deep sheet pan and roast in a 450 degrees oven for 20­to 30 minutes stirring once.

By Trish Wesevich austinfoodmagazine.com

3 tbls olive oil 24 basil leaves In a mortar, combine garlic, basil and olive oil. Work until it becomes a thick paste. Can be made in a small food processor.

FALL 2014

25

TA S T E FU L CRE AT I O N S | CO OK ING W I T H T R ISH

LAYERED CRESPELLE WITH TOMATO SAUCE, PROSCUITTO & CHEESE adapted from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking

by Marcella Hazan

CRESPELLE 1 cup milk 3/4 cup Bona Dea Gluten Free Flour (or regular all­-purpose flour) 2 eggs 1/8 tsp salt butter crepe pan Pour milk into bowl and sift in flour, whip in eggs and salt and mix until smooth.

Heat crepe pan and add 1 tbls butter. Pour batter onto pan and tilt and rotate until batter distributes evenly. As soon as batter becomes set, slip spatula underneath, flip and cook the other side. Stack the crespelle on a plate with sheets of parchment paper between each one. Set aside. Makes 9-­12 pancakes or crepes.

FOR THE FILLING 1 - 14­oz can San Marzano diced tomatoes 3 tbls high q ­ uality olive oil 1 clove smashed garlic 2 tbls. finely chopped parsley salt & pepper to taste 1 cup finely chopped proscuitto 1/2 cup shredded parmigiano ­reggiano cheese 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Make filling by heating olive oil lightly and stirring in crushed garlic in sauce pan. Cook until garlic is aromatic.

Add the parsley and continue to stir. Pour in canned tomatoes with their juice and add salt and pepper. Bring to a low simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and until the tomato liquid has been reduced and has separated from the fat. Remove crushed garlic from sauce and turn off heat.

Lightly smear a round cake or pie dish with butter. Choose the largest crespelle to put on the bottom. Coat it thinly with the tomato sauce and sprinkle over it chopped proscuitto, grated Parmesan and grated mozzarella and cover with another crespelle. Continue on until you have used up all of the crespelle. Leave enough sauce to very lightly smear over the top and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese.

Bake on the uppermost rack of the oven for 15 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter without turning over. Allow to settle for several minutes before slicing. Serve with a green salad or chopped, raw vegetables.

By Trish Wesevich

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

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ROV IN G A PPE TITE S | T H RE E L I T T LE PIG S

Three Little Pigs

BY KRISTIN SHEPPARD

A

t an age where many might consider retirement, Chef Raymond Tatum is working harder than ever. The long days and intense labor it takes to run a business almost single­handedly can be taxing, but Raymond takes it all in stride. His masterful command of his ingredients turn each plate into a work of art, and his devoted fans fall in line to consume his creations. Like any artist answering his calling, he has to cook.

And Austin gets to reap the benefits.

the traditional and the future. Dishes are wildly bold, yet refined, like the confit of pig cheeks, using his own clarified pork belly fat. It’s not often you’ll see twice­cooked pork tongue on a menu, and almost never out of a trailer. But innovation is par for the course at Three Little Pigs. And for the record, the pork tongue is out of this world.

Beyond pork, the venison sausage and Brussels sprouts are a crowd favorite. Chicken and beef make appearances on the always­changing As the name suggests, Three Little Pigs is an menu, as does the finest seasonal produce. ode to pork. Delicious, natural, anti­biotic and The gluten and meat intolerant will always hormone­free pork cooked an have options, too, as Raymond endless amount of ways. The 1209 Rosewood Ave will whip up something special for Austin, TX 78702 those with dietary requests. pig cheeks sell no matter what.

The pork belly tops “best of” lists Hours: time and time again. Even the To simply state that this is the best Tuesday-Saturday more experimental cuts, like food coming out of a trailer doesn’t 5:00pm-10:00pm intestine, are a thing of divinity do it justice. (for those brave enough to give it a try.)

Rather, it’s more apt to describe the euphoria the eater feels when taking that first bite. The Raymond is in the company of a gifted family sheer volume of flavor that is underscored by of cooks, pastry chefs, and an overachieving incredible textures and colors create a perfect son who shares his passion for Asian food. symphony. Every single dish. Every single time.

The inclusion of Chinese black bean sauce or Each offering is a stroke of genius, an edible piquant kimchi make each dish an amalgam of masterpiece.

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

ROV IN G A PPE TITE S | WAY S OU T H PH ILLY

Way South Philly

BY KRISTIN SHEPPARD

T

hinly sliced beef cooked on a flattop with lots of onions. A roll that bites you back. A thick, warm layer of Cheez Whiz.

These are the components of an authentic cheese steak, the sandwich that defines the City of Brotherly Love. The ingredients sound simple enough, yet outside of Philadelphia, people rarely get it right.

Way South Philly gets it right. Very right. Owner Willy Pearce recognized a need in Austin and partnered with his brother to open the popular trailer at the East Side Fillin’ Station at 6th and Waller. He worked on his recipes and sourced his ingredients from vendors to get the right components for a legit cheese steak. (We’re talking Amoroso’s rolls, people.)

The Rocky­themed menu includes vegan (The Adrian) and gluten­free (The Mickey) options, but most come for the succulent meat topped with variations of toppings. Those who want a straight­up classic should order the Balboa. The Marciano is a pizza steak, another South Philly favorite. The sandwich is topped with sharp provolone and tangy tomato sauce and delivers a one­t wo punch to your taste buds.

The spunky little trailer caters to both the lovers and the fighters. $59.99 buys Balboas, sides of tots, drinks and a wedding ceremony for two.

The entire Way South Philly staff is ordained so hungry patrons can get hitched right at the trailer. Vow renewals are popular amongst romantic hipsters, especially on Valentine’s Day, when they are free with a sandwich.

austinfoodmagazine.com

Fighters can get in the ring with The Italian Stallion, a gargantuan roll overflowing with steak, peppers, onions, mushrooms, tots and a generous helping of Cheez Whiz. Competitors who can finish the six­ pound behemoth in 12 rounds (that’s 36 minutes) get to create their own sandwich for the menu. Many have tried…two have succeeded. Pearce recommends getting into fighting shape by training with The Lil’ Stallion, which is huge in its own right. Eaters with a little extra stomach room can finish with another East Coast delight: Tastykake Butterscotch Krimpets and Peanut Butter Kandy Kakes.

The tastes are strictly Philadelphia with friendly service that is all Austin.

The trailer is covered with photos of people posing with iconic Philly landmarks like the Liberty Bell or Rocky statue. Bring your own photo for the truck and Willy will buy you a cheese steak!

1104 East 6th Street Austin, TX 78702 Hours: Wednesday-Sunday | 11:00 am- 2:30 pm 5:00pm-10:00pm | Till 3 am Friday & Saturday

FALL 2014

29

BRANDON SCAWTHORNE

BY A N D R EA HAUGHTON

CE LE B RI T Y S P OT LI G H T | E ARLY M AK ING S OF A CH ILD CH EF

W

hen I was ten years old I had no clue what Kobe beef meant – I also

in place of the cake and mashed potatoes posing at the icing. “Everything was

highly doubt that my parents were privy to that culinary knowledge.

seasoned to perfection, it was a real highlight,” Brandon recalled. Another high-

My most adventurous meal was Frosted Mini Wheats in lieu of the

light of his nascent TV career came at a particularly chaotic moment during

standard Grape Nuts. Talk about branching out. I’m confident that I am not alone

filming when Brandon animatedly yelled, “that scarred the BAJABBERS outta

in picky-eater-ville. Most ten-year-olds spend their evenings in some digitized

me” amidst whipped cream and a flaming pan. His verbal creation ultimately

land driving their parents postal by refusing their vegetables and noshing pea-

became the top trend on Twitter.

nut butter sandwiches whilst grumbling about not being in front of the boob tube. Most ten-year-olds aren’t familiar with Kobe Beef, nor do they know what

Life has changed pretty dramatically for Brandon who, proscribed from reveal-

basting is or know how to say – let alone make – Veal Saltimbocca.

ing show specifics (despite being called out by a classmate for a commercial segment spotting), was living a virtual double life. Brandon could not release

Granted, I’m positive not all ten-year-olds are clones of me during my forma-

details of the show prior to episodes airing no matter how much his friends

tive years; however, most probably can’t whip up crepes in their sleep either.

might badger him; he stayed mum on the details. That is no small feat for a

Which is why meeting Brandon Scawthorn, the now eleven-year-old culinary

human, especially a young human – and this kid, with a larger than life person-

prodigy and winner of Rachael vs. Guy Kids Cook-Off that aired this September

ality, can talk. Since winning (with Korean-style ribs with Kimchi), in September

on Food Network, is such a colossal treat. This kid knows food, loves food and

2013, the fifth grader has filmed his Foodnetwork.com mini series, Cooking in

cooks to impress. That his gregarious personality is as dazzling as his burgers

the Fast Lane. Each episode, Brandon takes to the streets to find busy strang-

are juicy is the icing on the proverbial cake.

ers and subsequently prepare a flavorful meal in 20 minutes or under. Some dishes he has showcased are a French Dip Sandwich with au jus - for none other

Brandon’s obsession with food was cultivated from infancy by his stay-at-

than Chopped Judge Scott Conant - and Salmon fried rice. Now, in addition to

home-mom, Yelena, who was a commanding culinary prowess in her own

cooking approximately 87 percent of his meals (including his school lunches

right. Cooking represents a bonding mechanism to mother and son alike and

instigating much jealousy and salivation among his classmates) and racing

Brandon credits his mother’s fondness of crepe-making with his first real cooking

Banderlos with his father - Kevin, Brandon spends what little time not in the

experience. At first, he would pour the ingredients per his mother’s instruc-

classroom fielding interview questions and fulfilling spotlight cameos at events

tion into their respective bowls, stirring before they hit the hot pan. Eventually,

around Central Texas. Standard modus operandi for an eleven- year-old who

he was adding ingredients of his accord and delivering his own version of his

can grill a better steak than Truluck’s and whose first dish to prepare was crepes.

mother’s famous crepes to the family’s table. Pretty soon, he was legitimately cooking full meals and manning the grill.

Looking back, Brandon says, “It was just so cool to be there in this awesome kitchen, with these TV chefs and cameras everywhere, cooking on my own and

Though he spends time reading cookbooks and watching celebrity chef greats

then, I was kind of the winner.” Yes, little chef, not only were you the winner,

Emeril Lagasse and Bobby Flay, Brandon predominately learns from simply

but the judges thought they were eating a tried and true chef’s vittles. Hat’s off

‘doing’ in the kitchen. An aspiring celebrity chef and TV host himself, Brandon’s

to the little chef and cheers to many years to come.

path to the Food Network competition began when his mom submitted pictures of his food (unbeknownst to the little chef) not thinking that they would

AF: What is your favorite thing to cook?

be selected. Brandon, a gregarious life force, made it through to the semifinals

B: I am a Texas boy, we like meat – I love to grill and make BBQ chicken, along

and flew to Los Angeles to cook for the very chef personalities that he had been

with ribs and steak.

watching for years.

AF: How do you learn your kitchen repertoire?

The premiere walk onto set blew the little chefs mind. “I couldn’t get over -right

B: I just kind figure it out. Sometimes, I watch TV shows but I learn a lot by trial

at first - when I was about to walk in and, when we did, it was just so cool. The

and error – like learning not to drop the veal from high heights into really hot

experience was great and I had so much fun getting to cook without my mom

oil – that was rough.

PHOTOG R APHY BY COURTNE Y PIERCE

and doing it on my own and thinking about the groceries and the dishes I would prepare and how to present them.” Exhibiting the makings of a fully colored chef,

AF: What is your all-time favorite food experience thus far?

Brandon rolled with the punches (or, more accurately, the knife wounds) not let-

B: My all time favorite experience has been the show. It helped that I won.

ting his performance be affected by hiccups in the kitchen and literally poaching eggs with one hand behind his back after sustaining a knife wound in the first

AF: This is the most important question a person can ever be asked…What would

episode. Brnadon’s ability to maintain focus and employ his resilient ten-year-

be on your plate at your last meal?

old boy mentality are pervasive throughout his cook-scapades. While making

B: A 20-ounce sirloin steak and a two-pound baked potato with green beans

saltimbocca (something I only attempted at the young age of 27), he dropped

and lots of bacon and a gigantic piece of garlic butter-salted bread. Make the

the veal into the pan from too high a height. The result was a bad burn that the

potato five pounds.

little chef is quite proud of when he looks upon the scar – and his knife wound.

AF: What are you goals for the future?

Buttressing his resilience, Brandon’s creativity contributed to the coveted win.

B: I am still thinking about culinary school and thinking about going to college.

His personal favorite dish was “Cloudy with a Chance of Mashups” episode when

I just really want to be a chef. And not just any chef – I want to be a TV chef.

the meat-loving Texan delivered a savory riff on cupcakes with a mini meatloaf

And sometimes a racer, but mostly a chef.

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G E T YO U R CH E F TO G E T H E R | IN T H E K I TCH E N

In The Kitchen With

JANET McCullar

3.

8.

1.

4.

2.

7.

5.

9.

6.

1. Organic Herbs de Provence (great on fish, like the recipe for Swordfish Spiedini by Giada de Laurentis) 2. Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 3.

Barefoot Contessa Family Style (my families' favorite meals come from this cookbook) 4. Williams Sonoma Goldtouch cookie sheets 5. Bacon Cheeseburgers for breakfast...a family camping favorite 6. Viking gas grill...I cook outside all year long 7. Damn Delicious blog 8. French Press Coffee: I like La Dolce Vita at Central Market 9. Microplane rasp grater

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

G E T YO U R CH E F TO G E T H E R | IN T H E K I TCH E N

Get Your Chef Together

RORY

McNeil

1.

3.

2.

6.

7.

5.

4.

1. Malden Sea Salt, best finishing salt on the planet 2. ROAR Pinot Noir, tasty wine and the name’s divine 3. Salt and Time, to die for charcuterie 4. Quick Cuisine by Ann Clark, out of print foodie bible from Austin’s own Ann Clark worth tracking down 5. Marc Blackwell Glass Set, Beautiful Glassware because you should always have something pretty in hand 6. Rablabs Tiger's Eye Bottle Stopper, sparkley stopper in the event you have to cap off the night 7. Spicewood Vineyards Jalapeno Raspberry Mustard, so addictive that your sausage intake may soon skyrock

austinfoodmagazine.com

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33

THIS IS JUST A House-cured bacon, peach chutney, arugala, pickled cucumber, & aioli on wheatberry crust bread

,

But it comes with

Sweet potato fries with powdered sugar, honey mustard sauce,

A RECLINER & A MOVIE.

Makes the movies better.

Tickets & showtimes @ TheMoviehouse.com | 8300 N FM 620, Austin, TX 78726

S IP I T | AUS T IN CO CK TA IL S

Austin Cocktails

DRINK IT UP WITH

WRIT TEN BY DANIEL RAMIREZ | PHOTOGRAPHY BY COURTNEY PIERCE

T

here is a known stigma to “ready to drink” cocktails. Among craft cocktail makers and aficionados, they are routinely mocked. They are typically low-cost, low-alcohol offerings that are relegated to sales shelves and are purchased out of sheer convenience. Don’t have the tools or ingredients available to make a decent margarita? Buy the “ready to drink” bottle. Headed to float the river, but can’t stand beer?

Grab a “ready to drink” six pack. Want a cocktail but don’t want to spend the money on premium ingredients? Here’s a “ready to drink” version of your mudslide, daiquiri or piña colada. Even the calorie-conscious have grabbed on to the trend. Want to drink conveniently, but without high calorie count? Try this skinny version of “ready to drink” cocktails.

Too often, these beverages deliver a too-sweet liquid that is nearly indistinguishable from syrup, and they broadcast all the respectability of a malt beverage, which many of them actually happen to be. As convenient as these beverages might be, they sacrifice quality in that pursuit. But, since Austinites have made an art form out of transforming

austinfoodmagazine.com

FALL 2014

35

S IP I T | AUS T IN CO CK TA IL S

what is convenient into what is exceptional – as they have done for food trucks and boutique convenience stores – leave it to Austinites to solve the problem of how to make a high-quality “ready to drink” cocktail. Austin Cocktails, a new liquor brand that calls our city home, has released four different bottles that not only break new ground for the “ready to drink” market, but also shatter the stigma.

With cocktails that showcase the summer season, when lighter cocktails are called for to combat the harsh Texas sun, Austin Cocktails delivers all of the flavor and finesse of a crafted cocktail in a single bottle. Utilizing nearly flawless filtered vodka as their base spirit, they have even managed to keep the calorie count under 100 calories per serving, which is 33% less than a single beer. There is no longer a need to hunt the ingredients down for a mojito, margarita or a fruit and herb cocktail before heading to a day on the boat or a film at Cinema East.

Instead, it’s ready-made and bears no resemblance to the lower-forms of “ready to drink” bottles.

But the real difference is what’s inside. The Vodkarita is exactly what one would expect of a margarita – the unofficial cocktail of Texas – refreshing citrus, a hint of agave and a hint of sweetness. Meanwhile, the Cucumber Vodka Mojito, Austin Food Magazine’s favorite, trades the orange notes for that of fresh herbs and the clean flavor of cucumber.

Chilled and poured into a martini glass, this could very well become the beverage of choice for the more refined cookout. And with their Tea Twister, a light take on a grown-up Arnold Palmer, along with their Paradise Found, which brings coconut and citrus together with a deft touch, Austin Cocktails may have just given “ready to drink” a better public image and a drink that is worthy of bearing the name, Austin, on its label."

FOR MORE INFORMATION 512.660.0607 | info@austincocktails.com | austincocktails.com

S IP I T | BY E J OE SPIR I T S

A NEW SPIRIT THAT WILL LIVEN UP YOUR LIQUOR CABINET After 15 years living abroad in China, Texas born Matt Trusch has brought an ultra premium Chinese spirit brand called byejoe spirit of china to the US. He is now pioneering a modern revolution in Asian-Fusion mixology that cannot be ignored — especially during happy hour. byejoe is artfully distilled in the East using the finest red sorghum, and skillfully refined and filtered in the West using revolutionary patented technology. The result is an alluring, ultra premium spirit that’s smooth and sophisticated for contemporary tastes. byejoe is very mixable and versatile, and is quickly being adopted by discerning consumers. byejoe can be enjoyed in its signature cocktail – the byejoe original Chinese lychee martini, as well as other exotic fusion cocktails such as the Chinese mojito, Chinese caipirinha, Shanghai mule and Saint Joe. Enjoy byejoe as you like it – on the rocks, in shots, or your favorite fusion cocktails, and get ready to experience the new spirit of china.

RED L ANTERN 1.5 oz byejoe dragon fire 1 oz roses lime 0.5 oz grenadine Top with ice & sprite For more information, go to

byejoe.com

LE T S TA KE I T O U T S ID E | T R AVA A S A FAR M

Travaasa Farm WRIT TEN BY HAYDEN WALKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY BECK Y KIT TLEMAN

This year, Travaasa Farm celebrates its one year anniversary by hosting a special tour of their very own farm led by farm manager Kim Grabosky.

Kim delivered the grand tour revealing all of the breathtaking changes that have taken place at the farm since it broke ground last June. The resort’s impressive farm grows a myriad of crops, including summer squash, cucumbers, green beans, melons, basil, okra, sweet potatoes, greens and more.

Travaasa Farm is a quaint 3.25 ­acre working farm located at Travaasa Experiential Resort in the Austin hill country. The farm uses all organic practices to supply food for the resort’s kitchen. They also offer classes to the resort’s guests, covering topics like seeding and identifying edible plants, as well as composting, and chicken care.

The farm features more than 80 varieties of vegetable crops, perennial fruit orchards, native pecans, edible flowers, and medical herbs.

Additionally, the farm includes a beautiful 360­square foot greenhouse, a 2,300­square foot activity garden for hands­on growing classes, and a 680­square foot chicken coop with more than 100 laying hens of fivedifferent breeds, two roosters and an equine center which is home to seven horses.

Travaasa Experiential Resorts 512.258.7243 | travaasa.com/austin 13500 Farm to Market Road 2769, Austin, TX, 78726

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

Farm Manager Kim Grabosky

The restaurants desserts and pastries use fresh ingredients directly from Travaasas farm.

The tour was followed by an extravagant lunch, with produce and poultry grown on the farm.

austinfoodmagazine.com

Chef Ben Baker

FALL 2014

39

tapas • cocktails • espresso • cigars • dessert • wine

800 West 6th St. | Austin, TX 78701 |512.436.9633 | TAPASITAS.COM

“Meet me at #Mulbe rry A u s t in ” 3rd & nueces • mul berryau st i n. c om

h a p p y h o u r s p e c i a l s • D i n n e r • s n a c k s • B r u n c h • c u r at e D W i n e & B e e r • o p e n l at e

T R AV E L | HOT EL ELL A: GO ODALL' S

HOTEL ELLA: A VIEW FROM INSIDE THE MANSION WRI T TEN BY MARIKA FL AT T CULINARY PHOTOS BY COURTNEY PIERCE

W

hen one decides to venture out to dine, whether it’s with the family, coworkers or just by the onesie, there are so many choices in the greater Austin area. We particularly enjoy a restaurant with a breathtaking view of the sunset and the option to dock a boat. That’s what initially piqued our interest in Shore Club at Volente Beach, but we stuck around for the extraordinary menu, cocktails and the live music.

It’s the year 1900 and stylish socialite Ella Wooten marries a Goodall, whereby she moves into a home in downtown Austin. With her decadent sense of class and design, Ella hires the contractor who built the Biltmore Mansion in Asheville, NC, to reconstruct the Greek revival mansion, and a designer by the name of Neiman Marcus to fully redecorate the home. In today’s currency, Ella would have a paid approximately one million dollars on the decorating.

Flash forward to 2013…This home, after changing hands a few times (including serving as an alcohol recovery center for some years) has been remodeled and voila—Hotel Ella is born! Upon entering the boutique hotel, I was impressed with the wrap-around veranda whose plush seating was beckoning me to sit a spell, then the gorgeous midnight blue couch in the lobby (which surely belongs in my living room), and then impressed with the friendly staff, including Luca, the rooms manager who greeted us upon arrival.

44

Walking through Hotel Ella, which has a B&B feel to it, we were able to admire much of the original woodwork, an original fireplace and the newly-added pool, which serves as the inviting centerpiece. The main house boasts five junior suites upstairs and a few deluxe lofts, but the guest rooms in the adjacent building have patios that open up to the pool. Surrounding the pool and throughout the grounds, you’ll find sculptures designed by Charles Umlauf of Austin’s popular Umlauf Sculpture Gardens (including everyone’s favorite sculpture by the pool of UT alum, Farrah Fawcett).

All of these aesthetics are fabulous; however, what truly made our visit unique was the friendly, enjoyable staff at Hotel Ella. Jay, the bartender imported from Sonoma, gave us a taste of their favorite cocktails and Texas craft beers paired with the bar’s cheese plate. Sitting in the bar, you can just picture powerful Texas politicians dining the evening away with the Goodalls a century ago.

General Manager Steve Shotsberger gave us a glimpse into the busy preparations for that evening’s wedding, which included a DJ and plated dinner in a beautiful space (which stays quite busy). This 47-room member of Small Luxury Hotels stands its ground in this prestigious old downtown location. Think of Hotel Ella as a luxurious oasis amid the bustling streets bordering the UT campus.

TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

T R AV E L | HOT EL ELL A: GO ODALL' S

E xecut ive Chef, Ni c k Ne lson & Chef de cu is ine, C ory U n t c h

Our new friend, Jacob, and his fellow bellmen, make your visit relaxing from start-to-finish, as the hotel is 100% valet so you drop your car off and the hotel’s two luxury vehicles can shuttle you where you need to go downtown. What a bonus in downtown ATX!

Fa rm gre e n b e a n s, from a ge b la n c , st ra w b e rri e s, p i c k le d ra m p s, a lm on d p a p e r, d i ll vi n a i gre t t e

So whether you visit to dine at the delicious onsite Goodall’s restaurant, are a history buff and want to view Goodall’s old gun collection and the original mansion furniture, or you simply want to be still by the serene inner pool, you’re in for some real treats and eats at the majestic Hotel Ella.

Marika Flatt has been travel writing since 2002, simultaneously running literary PR agency, PR by the Book. Flatt was named Travel Editor of Austin Lifestyle magazine in 2013. Other publications Flatt regularly contributes to are: FamilyTravel.com and her Flattlands blog.

Additionally, she’s had five travel features in GoodHousekeeping.com.

HOTEL ELLA 800.311.1619 | hotelella.com 1900 Rio Grande, Austin, Texas 78705

Goodall' s lis t of a m a z i n g c raft cockt ails compli m e n t t h e s pect acular menu

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

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F eature

ANDIAMO RISTORANTE

Di s h | C a c c iucco

D is h | V it e l l o Ro s mari n o

TAKE A TRIP TO ITALY BY WAY OF NORTH AUSTIN WRIT TEN BY MARIKA FL AT T PHOTOGRAPHY BY COURTNEY PIERCE

I

taly is on my bucket list so the name of this north Austin restaurant caught my attention. The Italian word “andiamo” means “let’s go!” This authentic Italian eatery boasts the freshest ingredients and traditional

family recipes on their website, andiamoitaliano.com.

Owner Daniela Marcone did not disappoint! With her thick Italian accent, she visited our table several times throughout the night, explaining what each dish was and where the recipe came from. As she brought out the hot homemade artisan bread, I melted. Infused with spinach and cheeses, the soft bread was perfecto to kick off this little visit to Italy.

On their website, you can learn the story of how this little restaurant came to be in the hands of Marcone. A native of Naples, Italy, Marcone did not

D is h | R a v i o li ai Fun gh i

move to Austin with intention of becoming involved in her current food business. Not sure of whether to stay in Austin or return to her homeland

With a story such as this, touting a young female entrepreneur, I quickly

of Italy, Marcone went to try Andiamo, came to know the owner and

emailed friends, saying “let’s go!” Our table of four was treated to fabulous

quickly found a home within the restaurant. Marcone started working as

customer service during our delicious 2.5- hour dinner.

a hostess, where her charismatic personality shined, and soon worked her way up the ranks to a manager where she learned the ins and outs

Every dish in Andiamo is served as it would be in Italy. Marcone insists

of restaurant business. Years later, Andiamo was in danger of closing

on only the best and most authentic Italian. She visits farmers markets

and when the owner needed to sell it, the young woman bought it,

twice a week to ensure Andiamo has the freshest ingredients from local

committing to share her family’s traditional Italian dishes with the Austin

vendors. Marcone’s own family recipes inspire many of the dishes and

community. With Marcone’s purchase and revamp of the restaurant,

the extensive variety of the menu proves her dedication to providing

Andiamo is now a one-of-a-kind authentic Italian getaway, bringing a

seasonal plates that are true to her family and her homeland. When you

piece of Italy to Austin.

visit, make sure to try these culinary creations:

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FE AT U RE | A N DI A MO

D ish | In salata Di Finocc hi o

• Salsiccia della casa This appetizer is their house-made sausage, packed with flavor, and paired with pickled peppers. So savory!

• Involtini di Melanzane Consider this a healthy cheese stick! This appetizer is breaded eggplant (how can you go wrong?) stuffed with mozzarella and ricotta, covered with a light tomato basil sauce.

• Ravioli ai Funghi Don’t let the funghi turn you off! Each bite is a testament to their fresh ingredients. I chose a house-made ravioli off the special-of-the-day menu and practically licked my plate clean.

• Filetto alla Griglia If you’re not a pasta fan (I don’t understand these people but know they exist), you can’t go wrong with this grilled beef tenderloin topped with a gorgonzola cream sauce.

Andiamo’s wine list highlights small vineyards from the hills of Italy. You might not be able to pronounce the name of the wine, such as Napolini Montfalco Rosso, but you won’t have any problem enjoying it! Andiamo hosts monthly wine dinners the last Tuesday of every month at 7 p.m.

For $50 per person, you can experience authentic Italian food perfectly paired with Italy’s finest wines. Wine dinner evenings include four to-diefor courses matched with four wines of a certain line. Seating is limited for these events so make sure to make your reservations for the next wine dinner on July 29 in advance.

Finish off the dinner with a decadent dessert, such as their cheesecake, and a shot or two of Italian espresso and you’re sure to be getting in touch with friends again to say “let’s go” to Adiamo Ristorante again. Make Andiamo your destination for an genuine Italian eating experience. Ciao!

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

FE AT U RE | A N DI A MO

D is h | D o lc e Nev e Gelato

D i sh | R i g ato ni a lla B os c a iol a

austinfoodmagazine.com

D is h | I n s alata all’ U o v o

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E ach wine ser ved f r o m th e Cos imo M ar ia M a si n i l i n e i s g r o w n w i t h a b i o d yn a m i c a p p r o a c h o n 30 to 50 y ea r old vines. G r eat c ar e is taken to pr e se r v e t he v i n e s a n d so i l , a n d ha r v e st s a r e d o n e b y ha n d .

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

I tal ian wi n e m ake r, Fr an c e s c o D e F il ippi s

APRI IL VINO T PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLTON STARK

his Summer, Andiamo Ristorante featured Italian winemaker Francesco De Filippis from the Cosimo Maria Masini Winery as part of it’s Monthly Wine Dinner Series. De Filippis made the journey from Tuscany to share his wine with guests as they enjoyed a four-course Italian meal with Cosimo Maria Masini pairings.

"Born and raised in one of the most beautiful places in Italy and perhaps in the world, Sorrento with its wealth of wonderful scents remains forever in my heart. Like any kid growing up in the countryside, my experience starts playing with the soil, helping in the garden and taking care of the animals.

At age 14 to 18 start my real career path, going to work during the summer and other holidays in a small farm that produced biodynamic citrus, wine, oil and bred dairy cows, in fact my little compensation were just products of the farm. From this first experience, I realized that my path was traced and I have not stopped even for a day to take care of organic and biodynamic farming. After graduating in agriculture and various specializations in this field, I have worked in several organic and biodynamic farms in Italy and abroad, but I stopped in Tuscany and holding Cosimo Maria Masini just to realize my dream in the production of biodynamic wines."

- Francesco De Filippis, Italian Winemaker For more information on the Cosimo Maria Masini Winery, visit cosimomariamasiniwines.wordpress.com

T h e 10 0 % bi o d y n am i c wi n e r y rev i t a l i zes t he s o i l s o t hat i t be c o m e s re ac ti v e an d re c e ptiv e f o r ea ch ha r v es t t o p rod uc e pure wi n e s with a bo uq uet of a ro ma s a nd f l a v o r s .

W

Everywhere you look, there is a titillating in-house process being executed. In one glance you can see meat being ground down and sausages being cased. In another, a fresh lamb quarter is being broken down. Ravioli dough is being rolled, then filled with a fresh scallop mixture. Macarons with fresh, light meringue are undergoing delicate assembly on a baker’s tray. Pasta sheets are put to press. A fish is expertly filleted. Pounds and pounds of fresh produce have been washed and prepped, providing beautiful pops of color. Stocks are simmering, scenting the air.

Cheese is curdling. Free range chickens, which will eventually make their way onto made-to-order risotto, are dancing in a rotisserie. Freshly baked bread permeates the nostrils (making it

hard to not go dip in it the robust stocks). I’m in foodie heaven; a place where food is revered and celebrated.

Boasting a cooking philosophy that would earn approval from Italian grandmothers, Samson, and Chef de Cuisine Alex Deen, rely heavily upon locally sourced produce and meat. Vespaio has focused on farm-to-table dining for almost two decades, well before the fad swept Austin. Dubbed “Texas Italian,” the menu is rooted in Italian cuisine, but the menus are curated for the community that supports it. Recipes are authentic to local ingredients while adhering to the basic rudiments of Italian flavor profiles and sauces. Everything about Vespaio exudes love of quality, love of community, love of simplicity and elegance.

“We service two restaurants with one kitchen and make nearly everything from scratch. Every part of ingredients are used, nothing is wasted. The kitchen produces the majority of dish components from scratch, breaks down whole animals in-house – utilizing all scraps, and makes all pastry, pasta, cheese and bread by hand daily. Specials are conceptualized pursuant

delish delish

Vespaio

alking the Ryan Samson, executive chef of Vespaio since 2002, line is phenomenal. With one kitchen servicing both Vespaio and Enoteca Vespaio, the efficiency and order that yield hundreds of plates daily is a true pleasure to witness. But it is the love of ingredients and commitment to quality echoed by every visible part of the kitchen that is so magical.

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

to day’s bounty. It’s an education in sourcing, sharing space, efficient work and organization, cooking. In this kitchen you learn how to do a lot on the line,” says Samson. It is a kitchen that allows people to grow along the line, a prime example is Alex Deen who has worked his way from pantry to line cook to sous and is now Chef de Cuisine.

The no-waste approach inspires creativity in application and results in 800 pounds of tomatoes being sun-dried to yield ‘Tomato Conserva,’ subsequently saved for fall when local tomatoes are out of season. Meat scraps and prosciutto ends are confited or ground to go into Bolognese sauce. The dishes and flavors are comforting, complementary and nostalgic. Somehow the food parlays an elegance and inspiration that roots itself deeply in fundamentals. The specials on shooting day were no exception.

The ravioli, stuffed with scallop and robiola osella cheese, was served in a velvety, decadent sea urchin butter and studded with blistered Juliet tomato. It was the single best bite of pasta I’ve

austinfoodmagazine.com

had in recent memory. The risotto, made to order, was delicate and creamy. Fresh summer corn added a subtle sweetness that perfectly complemented piave cheese and expertly roasted heirloom chicken perched upon the risotto bed.

The sweet finishing touch of the experience was ‘Cioccolata’ from Pastry Chef, Sandi Reinlie, that was every ounce as decadent as it was beautiful. The softness of the caramel milkchocolate semi fredo, was delightful texturized by delicate cocao nib cookies, cocoa crumble and wonderful cashew truffe torta.

The just-sweet-enough dessert showcased Reinlie’s penchant for chocolate creations and creative design.

Every dish that we were lucky to indulge in reaffirmed Vespaio’s continued commitment to quality. Here’s to the next 16 years guys, we simply cannot get our fill.

WRIT TEN BY A N D R E A H AU G H TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY CO U R T N E Y P I E R C E

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Italian food is comfort food. It’s filling pastas, cheesy pizzas, and crisp salads. Walking into Mandola’s Italian Market is a completely unique experience on its own. The owners, Damian & Trina Mandola having Sicilian roots, take real pride in the authenticity of their product. Offering an open environment: the kitchen can be seen through a half wall in the center of the restaurant.

From the red brick walls, to the old family photos hanging throughoutyou’ll feel cozy as soon as your arrive. Mandola’s is not only a restaurant, it also serves as an imported goods market (selling dry pastas, bottled sauces, olive oil, ect.), a small delicatessen, and a pastry shop offering housemade gelatos, breads, and cannolis.

What we liked Bruschetta alla Checca: These four huge slices of garlic toast topped with marinated cherry tomatoes will make you wonder why you don’t eat this everyday of your life. This appetizer is simplicity at its finest moment.

Chopped Italian Salad: A bright and flavorful creamy Parmigiano dressing mixes happily with fresh mozzarella, salami, beans, artichoke hearts, hearts of palm, olives, red peppers, fennel, cherry tomatoes, and pickled onionsall on top of crisp greens.

Spaghetti & Meatballs: Their marinara sauce is an old Sicilian family recipe that has indeed stood the test of time. It is topped over huge meatballs that sit on a mound of delicious spaghetti pasta. This classic dish is not to be ignored here at Mandola’s.

Parma: This pizza is simple, elegant, and the reason why you’ll forever want to get arugula on all your pizzas. All pizzas at Mandola’s are Roman style and this particular one is topped with mozzarella, provolone, prosciutto (as if it wasn’t already delicious enough), a lemon vinaigrette, and huge shavings of Parmigiano.

Vegetariano: Do not fret vegetarian friends, Mandola’s has something delicious for you as well. The Vegetariano is the veggie sandwich king: adorned with its thick slices of grilled eggplant, zucchini, onions, and portobello mushrooms. It’s served on hearty multigrain bread, with fresh mozzarella with artichoke spread, pesto mayo, and red pepper relish. Even if you do call yourself an omnivore, it is sandwich worth devouring.

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Mandola's

Why it is so good

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What to eat

Finish the feast with the Olive Oil and Rosemary Cake accompanied with pistachio gelato. Top it all off with a mélange of refreshing handcrafted cocktails. The aRoma Americano is the signature cocktail and is made with Campari, Carapano Antica, Orange and Soda. Of course we had the Italian Mule as well, sort of a gesture of respect if you will. aRoma also has an impressive selection of beer and wine, suitable for any palate.

Start the meal with Grilled Calamari which is tossed in frisee, grapefruit, red onion, pistachios and EVOO and a tomato and basil bruschetta. It’s a rather enjoyable mix of flavors and refreshingly light, as all good appetizers should be.

WRIT TEN BY H AY D E N WA L K E R P H OTO G R A P H Y BY CO U R T N E Y P I E R C E

Don’t be shy on the main course. The authentic Neapolitan style pizza is a bonafide element to the integrity of the restaurant.

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aRoma Italian Kitchen

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Try the Quattro Formaggi, an absolute sine qua non for any cheese lover; topped with mozzarella, gorgonzola, parmesan and creamy goat cheese. Also, go for the iconic Salsiccia, topped with Italian sausage, smoked mozzarella, and cherry tomatoes.

Roma Italian Kitchen & Bar, located next to the Broken Spoke at The 704 Apartments, features “genuine” Neapolitan Pizza, meaning that it uses real San Marzano tomatoes that grow on the volcanic plains on the south side of Mount Vesuvius. The ‘homemade’ mozzarella and dough consists of wheat flour, natural Neapolitan yeast, salt and water, kneaded and formed by hand without the help of rolling pins or machines. Although they break tradition with 12-inch rather than 8-inch pizzas, the pies are baked in a wood-fired brick oven shipped directly from Italy, for 90 secs-2mins.

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A

s a kid I refused to eat pizza. Something about it turned me off. I remember [naively] thinking that Ray’s Pizza in New York City was the best pizza ever made during one of my first adult visits in 2004). Sadly, this statement is not an exaggeration. Commonly known as one of the crappy pizzerias enjoyed predominantly by late night drunks with either no choice or no discern, Ray’s Pizza was easily the best pizza that I had eaten. A trip to Italy later that summer fully corrected my pizza aversion and showed me that will be no shortage of pizza in Heaven. Since then, I’ve overcompensated for time passed by gorging on as much pizza as humanly possible. Except, my city did not have much in the way of pizza offerings.

held hostage to the Papa John’s style thin crust or regular. We have pizza makers coming from all different genres. Starting with Home Slice Pizza, more and more shops have popped up offering eaters satiation – a void that for so long was unfulfilled.

WRIT TEN BY A N D R E A H AU G H TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY CO U R T N E Y P I E R C E

I suppose in some ways it is poetic that I did not gain true appreciation for pizza until 2004. Until recently, Austin’s better options were mediocre and limited. Amidst raging conversations (and raging drivers) on the mass emigration to Austin, a positive side effect is often overlooked when dealing with soaring prices, endless construction and parking lots for roads. The city’s culinary scene is exponentially expanding and increasing in quality, a phenomenon made possible by an influx of culinary diversity and a foreign and domestic crop of rock star chefs. This phenomenon is precisely the reason that pizza lovers now have something they can actually sink their teeth into. Though Austin will never be the prided epicenter of the pizza world (Hey, we have breakfast tacos and BBQ on lock down - even the greatest city in the world can’t have it all), in the past decade we have gained a procession of laudable pizzerias crafting pies authentically according to style. These pies use quality ingredients, impart tremendous flavor and inspire nostalgia. Moreover, Austin’s pizza lovers are no longer

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delish In under a decade, Home Slice Pizza has evolved into an Austin institution. Representing her youth Rochester and adult years in New York City, while simultaneously incorporating Texas’ hospitality, were Jen Strickland’s building blocks for the now legendary Home Slice Pizza, founded in 2005. Home Slice Pizza is about stellar customer service, good food and great wine and beer. No frills, just great conversation and even better experiences. Authentically sized NYC pies dress paper plates, begging to be folded, wafting garlicky steam. Freshly baked dough scents the air from under the “In Crust we Trust” sign perfectly complementing the dark yellow, red and white circus-esque interior. This is the Home Slice that everyone knows. Lesser known?

Their attention to the stuff that washes down the pie: specifically, beer and wine. Their unique beverage program is designed and curated to compliment the food, enhancing the richness of certain cheeses and showcasing the robust flavor of Home Slice’s tomato sauce and meatballs.

Home Slice

F

lying under the radar is a bit of a task for Home Slice Pizza. Their hospitality, scrumptious New York slices and authenticity have earned them a solid reputation attracting throngs of Austinites and tourists alike. How can you not enjoy a place that hands out Smarties after all?

MUST ORDER: Eggplant Pie & Sausage, Ricotta & Roasted Red Pepper 512.444.7437 | homeslicepizza.com Monday - Thursday 11:00am - 11:00pm | Friday - Saturday 11:00am - 12:00am | Sunday 12:00pm - 11:00pm 1415 S Congress Ave, Austin, TX 78704 WRIT TEN BY A N D R E A H AU G H TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY CO U R T N E Y P I E R C E

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Via 313 delish

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hat happens when two Detroiters combine passion for pizza with entrepreneurial dreams? Mouth-watering glory.

How did these pizza gods descend upon our sleepy city?

“It’s not complicated, we like pizza - so we opened a pizza truck. Do something you love and do it well,” says Zane and Brandon Hunt, owners of Via313.

Via313’s pies are a testament to that sentiment. Each square, silver pan that is pulled from the oven encases the best of both worlds – pizza crafted by bakers. Via313’s Detroit-style pies are perfect. The crust, made in-trailer from cold-fermented dough, is thick, airy and chewy affording delightful texture from the crunch provided by a caramelized cheese coating that spans all four edges of the pie. This buttery square is topped with two streaks of fresh crushed tomato sauce, drizzled after baking, topping the melted cheese. Each bite is a baker’s triumph and pizza lover’s delight. Perfection does not stop at the crust. Classically meat heavy, toppings are simple, carefully sourced and high-quality meats and veggies.

Sheer coolness of Zane and Brandon aside, these guys love the community and have an informed passion of pizza that I feel lucky to witness first-hand. The simplicity of quality ingredients and mastery of the baking process brings foodies out in droves. Including this one…

MUST ORDER: The Detroiter and the Cadillac.

512.939.1927 | via313.com Monday - Wednesday 5:00pm - 12:00am | Thursday - Saturday 5:00pm - 2:00am | Sunday 5:00pm - 12:00am 1111 E 6th St, Austin, TX 78702 WRIT TEN BY A N D R E A H AU G H TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY CO U R T N E Y P I E R C E

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Ow ne r s, Z an e & B r a n d on H u n t

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Salvation Pizza

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ntroduced by Italian shipbuilders, New Haven style pizza is the birthplace of American pizza. Characterized by its distinct crust,

which is traditionally cooked to the point of char, the thin crust exhibits a distinctive snap and crunch unique to New Haven.

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Originally from New England, Michael Dinsmore was raised with an appreciation for authenticity and tradition. His introduction to the technical aspects of New Haven style pizza, ignited a passion for sharing the methods, quality and flavors when he conceptualized Salvation Pizza in 2006. Salvation Pizza, Austin's only New Haven style pizzeria makes all elements of their pizza from scratch in strict adherence to classic technique. Pizzas are cooked in on a custom-fitted granite stone, using only traditional wooden peels in a gas-fired oven and quality ingredients. Dinsmore’s vision for Salvation Pizza was and continues to be deeply rooted in his upbringing and immersion in a culinary world striving to preserve tradition through consistency and quality techniques.

MUST ORDER: White Clam Pizza - Whole Baby Clams, Bacon, Lemon 512.535.0076 | salvationpizza.com Monday - Thursday 11:30pm - 10:00pm | Friday 11:30am – 11:00pm Saturday 12:00pm – 11:00pm | Sunday 4:00pm – 10:00pm 624 W 34th St, Austin, TX 78705 WRIT TEN BY A N D R E A H AU G H TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY N I CO L A I M CC R A RY & CO U R T N E Y P I E R C E

M i cha e l D i n s m ore Owner

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aining its name from the authentic buffalo mozzarella, Bufalina offers East Austin a fresh taste of classic pizza. Although the owner Steven Dilley claims to have no experience in the restaurant business, his solid work is noticeable. He folds in and out from the kitchen to tables, assisting wherever needed and he likes it that way. “I like that we have enough staff to allow me to move around a bit,” Dilley states. You notice the passion he has as he discusses the authentic low dome oven that he had imported from Naples.

The pizza only cooks for about 60 to 90 seconds at over 900 degrees Fahrenheit. It's shocking how this short cooking time is still able to leave you with a deliciously soft crust, loaded with rustic flavor. “People are always a bit shocked when they take a bite and the crust isn’t crunchy,” he says with a laugh. The standout of the meal was the brussel sprout pizza, topped with smoked ham, serrano pepper, mozzarella, and a scallion pesto. Each slice delivered outstanding flavor boasting the well-cooked, locally sourced ingredients. “Obviously I think everyone needs to try the margherita,” Dilley says. The deliciously sweet tomato paired well with the basil and mozzarella, a classic Neapolitan style pie that remains a favorite among diners.

512.524.2523 | bufalinapizza.com Wednesday - Sunday 5:30pm - 11:30pm 1519 E Cesar Chavez St, Austin, TX 78702 WRIT TEN BY TAY LO R B U T L E R P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J E N N Y S AT H N G A M

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T H E S WE E T S P OT | D OLCE N E V E

Co -o w n e r s Leo S i lv e str i ni & Fr a nce s ca Fe r r a re s e

Dolce Neve gelato WRIT TEN BY AMY DROHEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY COURTNEY PIERCE

Dolce Neve is situated in a charming bungalow off of south First Street.

Their patio makes for an inviting place to take in a beautiful day with a cup of gelato and espresso. A visit to the shop is a one of a kind experience that is a must for all Austinites.

The owners, Leo Silvestrini, Francesca Ferrarese and Marco Ferrarese moved here from Italy to pursue their dream of opening a gelato shop in the United Sates. The trio is clearly passionate and enthusiastic about providing authentic gelato to the Austin area. In preparation of pursuing their new business Francesca studied the basics of gelato making in Italy at Carpigiani University that specializes in gelato.

She fine-tuned the art while working at the renowned Gelateria De' Coltelli in Pisa Italy. At Gelateria De' Coltelli Francesca learned to incorporate organic ingredients and utilize techniques that result in an extremely light and rich gelato. Unlike many gelato shops that use a premix, Dolce Neve is committed to using high quality organic ingredients and locally sources those ingredients when possible. As their tagline exclaims “we do it in front of everyone�, customers can watch the decadent handmade gelato made in-house. What is gelato?

Gelato is a healthy treat made of whole ingredients to include milk, sugar, egg yolk, cream and ingredients to add natural flavors. It contains a mere 5-6% fat content making it a healthier treat compared to ice cream.

Dolce Neve rotates their traditional flavors and changes their seasonal flavors frequently. They use seasonal ingredients to add creative flavors such as honey and goat cheese in combination with more traditional gelato offerings such as stracciatella and hazelnut. The seasonal flavors are often a result of experiments and feedback from their customers.

In addition to gelato they also serve sorbet, gelato on a stick, gelato sandwiches, custom gelato cakes and they brew espresso with beans from a local roaster.

Dolce Neve has a mobile gelato cart and they are available for catering events from weddings to children's parties.

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T H E S WE E T S P OT | D OLCE N E V E

ZUCCOT TO Fo r re ci pe vis it a u sti nf o o d ma g a zin e . c om

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T H E S WE E T S P OT | CU P C AK E BAR

ThE cU pCaK e BaR

BY M E AG A N V I T E K

An individual sized cake, that nestles perfectly in the palm of ones hand, topped with a fluffy swirl of icing and dusted with sprinkles, has the unique ability to paint a smile across anyone's face - regardless of their age. In a town where an infamous, larger-than-life cupcake sits atop a airstream trailer, its evident cupcakes have become part of Austin's ever growing food culture.

What is it about these miniature cakes, baked into the cup-like shape that induces such a response? For one, it could be the personal-sized nature of a cupcake, causing one to feel as if it were made for only them to consume. For another, it could be the delicately iced and dressed cake itself, making one contemplate whether to eat it or simply admire its beauty.

For many, it could be the nostalgia that emerges when one lays eyes on a cupcake, causing special childhood memories to flood the mind. While the exact answer may differ from person to person, the excitement without a doubt exists.

With a treat that causes such a response, we knew we had to share The Cupcake Bar's interesting take on a classic dessert. The Cupcake Bar, an Austin based cupcake catering company, has harvested the happiness of a cupcake and united it with the freedom of choice and creativity. At a variety of events, guests get to build their own cupcake, with the help of a cupcake bartender. Standing in front of the cupcake bar, peeking wide eyed at the array of toppings, cupcake flavors, filling and icing choices, one can't help but to feel like a kid again.

When Lori Schneider found herself looking at cupcakes as an experience, rather than the sweet finish to a meal, she knew she had to take her idea and scream it from the tip top of Austin's hills.

After working in the catering and event industry and owning her own catering company, Schneider soon realized that her passion was cupcakes - and the indescribable effect they have on people.

When someone requested a creative dessert bar for one of her catering events, Lori inadvertently created the first cupcake bar. After seeing the excitement of the guests, and getting calls for more cupcake bars, she knew she was onto something. Soon, Schneider dropped full service catering and The Cupcake Bar was born.

"We are always going to love cupcakes," says Schneider. To many, the rise in cupcake popularity in Austin is seen as a food trend - one that was sure to dissolve. Just over six years later, Schneider believes cupcakes aren't going anywhere.

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T H E S WE E T S P OT | CU P C AK E BAR

Its hard for one not to feel like a kid in a candy shop while standing in front of the bar. One's excitement about a cupcake is soon united with the ability to create a personalized cupcake masterpiece. Not only is the cupcake small enough to feed one, its also designed to reflect the desires of the creator. The cupcake bar allows you, even if for an instant, to travel from reality to a moment where anything is possible.

The process starts with a "naked" cupcake - a cupcake free from fillings, icing, toppings and the crinkled cupcake wrapper. According to Schneider, a wrapper-less cupcake makes it much easier and more fun to eat. Next, you choose a filling, which is injected inside the cupcake before your eyes. Some of the filling options include whipped cream, chocolate whipped cream, raspberry, strawberry, caramel, salted caramel and even a sugar free whipped filling. After your cupcake is filled, you choose an icing (or icings for those who want more than one). As with fillings, the icing flavor options are limitless - from her buttercreams - vanilla, chocolate, salted caramel, chocolate peppermint to name a few - to her signature pink cream cheese, anything is possible. After the cupcake is dressed with icing, next come the toppings. Jars filled with candies, cookies and sprinkles line the bar, allowing one to stay simple or go all out with a little bit of everything. With a shake of "disco dust," or edible glitter, the naked cupcake is dressed to one's liking. Reflecting not only your desired flavors and textures, but also arguably your personality.

The Cupcake Bar caters to a wide array of events. While weddings have, for the most part, been the most popular type of event, corporate events have been booking like crazy, says Schneider. In addition to weddings and corporate events, you can also find The Cupcake Bar serving cupcakes at baby showers, birthday parties, bat mitzvahs, bachelorette parties and any other occasion where cupcakes are a necessity. The Cupcake Bar has dished out cupcakes in the ACL VIP area for years, as well as been part of many SXSW events - including Google's takeover of Rainey Street.

This year, Schneider is looking forward to some exciting SXSW events, most of which are still in the planning process.

As cupcake lovers ourselves, we know that cupcakes have the amazing ability to transform a smile into full-fledged laughter when experiencing The Cupcake Bar. Top it with disco dust, and a delicious piece of edible art emerges.

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A S eat at the Table WRIT T EN BY DANIEL RAMIREZ PHOTOGRAPHY BY HAYDEN WALKER

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ustin is now an undeniable Texas barbecue powerhouse. In the past few years, Austin favorites have staked a claim at or near the top of every “Top 10” list, as a direct result of what can only be called “The Great Barbecue Boom of 2009-2010.” New masters and returning veterans of the art ushered in a new era in Austin. The city’s offerings, which had only shown up sporadically in surveys of the Texas barbecue landscape, firmly established their place in the Texas barbecue conversation. And, save for a few relocations and expansions, the new status quo has had connoisseurs and amateurs alike lining up throughout the city and debating the merits of peppery bark and pronounced smoke rings.

A little over a year ago, however, a new endeavor emerged on the scene. Micklethwait Craft Meats arrived in much the same way as others had done during the boom. Serving by-the-pound meats out of a repurposed trailer home, the story sounds like a familiar one, save for the fact that, rather than born from Texas barbecue lore or lineage, the idea forMicklethwait Craft Meats came from a trained chef who had

been seasoned in the Vespaio kitchen. Tom Micklethwait, the namesake behind the business, took his ideas to the hungry masses in late 2012, serving artisanal sausages to complement the standard beef, pork and poultry fare that are expected of a barbecue joint.

In the beginning, the sausages were an undisputed draw, garnering praise for the use of duck, lamb and turkey in their creation. Word had spread about the innovative takes on smoked sausage and it generated steady anticipation for what Micklethwait would think to combine and case next. The other items on the menu were delicious, but the Austin market for great smoked brisket is more than a little crowded, and didn’t bear the name Mueller or Franklin.

By March of 2014, however, the Micklethwait team was featured in the SXBites trailer park on the strength of their sausage. And it is from the corner of Red River and Cesar Chavez, not their more permanent location on Rosewood, that a simple brisket taco raised a few eyebrows.

The taco, complete with garnishes and more than a little attention to detail was savory, smoky, delicate and awesome, all at once. Offered solely for the convention, the reviews were superlative and prompted further investigation to determine if it was the balance of ingredients, the familiar delivery vehicle or the meat itself that warranted such high marks.

With all confidence, it can be said that the meat was the magic and continues to be so at Micklethwait Craft Meats. Imagine, if you will,

U P IN S MO KE | M ICK LE T H WA I T CR AF T ME AT S

that each bite of brisket contained within it all of the elements that make up great barbecue – spicy bark, subtle smoke and a moist yet firm tenderness. Such is the case for a brisket that has now eclipsed the other menu items, which is no small feat considering that the beef rib, upon first and second tasting, immediately dethroned the rest of Austin’s beef rib purveyors for best in the city.

The cherished smoke ring on both the beef rib and the brisket is so deep that it nearly paints the entire cross-section that revered and much-desired shade of pink. The smoke somehow never overpowers the beef flavor or the bark spices. This, then, is the mystery and the majesty of Micklethwait Craft Meats, since the flavor of any given piece of brisket tends to move along a spectrum, from smoky to beefy to satiny and back. The brisket, all by itself, commands that Micklethwait deserves a seat at the table of Texas barbecue legends, if it doesn’t deserve the throne outright.

But it doesn’t end with the beef. The creative sausages, too, are also still on offer, as are a variety of homemade delights, including jalapeño cheese grits that are a meal unto themselves and a moon pie that greatly improves upon the standard. For all these reasons, we think that the Austin and Texas barbecue communities need to make room for Micklethwait Craft Meats. And you should, too.”

CH E F ' S IN N E R CIRCLE | K E N T R AT H BUN

CHEF KENT RATHBUN: CHEF, GENIUS, TRAVELER, BIG GREEN, EGG PARTNER

BY ANDREA HAUGHTON

AF: So what's a big green egg?

KR: I don't think I can talk to you anymore.

Oh crap, we just sat down!

Because he's an legit guy who genuinely likes engaging with people, James Beard recipient Kent Rathbun forgave my Green Egg ignorance and stuck the interview out. I did my best to hide my wonderment from this highly and worldly - acclaimed culinary mastermind. Through the nerves, I hear: "My calendar scares the hell out of people." I can't believe my name is on it.

Nerves are soon mitigated because Rathbun is a seriously awesome person to chat with. The chef, who masterminded the sophisticated approachability of Abacus and Jasper’s, less formal Blue Plate Kitchen and successful Elements line, has a central goal among his eateries: inspiring customers to say “Holy shit, I’ll want more of that!.” Rathbun’s goal is to leave customers craving food - not because of microscopic portions, but because the components inspire both taste and nostalgic sensations.

“I stopped cooking for myself a long time ago – when I was young, I cooked over the top food and learned that people, including myself, more often like frill-less food.”

That’s not to discount the ingenuity and creativity that pulse through the renowned Abacus’ kitchens. Rathbun studies dishes that resonate and elevates them through excellent sourcing, quality ingredients and innovative products. Definitively more “traditional,” Jasper’s and Blue Plate Kitchen are geared to favorites; though still focus on integrity of ingredients.

The chef draws creativity and inspiration from travel where he can absorbs a multitude of ideas and confirms accuracy of techniques essential to regional dishes.

“I love global cooking, but I want to represent these dishes accurately – do them justice. So I look to the experts wherever they may be. There are so many peasant or street foods that can be elevated and that’s what I like to bring home to my restaurants.”

Fusion food is not something that you will find on this chef’s menus – whatever the cuisine, he remains true to its origins. Rathbun strives to understand the baseline of foods, but insists that if you can’t get the basics right – you can’t tweak it. He isn’t in the business of bastardizing dishes to showcase the latest fad. Though he likes the creativity in technique and flavor profiles that young chefs exude nowadays, appreciates molecular dining and experiencing the latest gastro-technique fresh from the lab, Rathbun’s cooking has steadfastly been executed authentically and with purpose.

CH E F ' S IN N E R CIRCLE | K E N T R AT H BUN

“Food should always be purposeful. Unpurposeful food should not be on a

KR: I grew up in Kansas City and my Dad was friends with a meat com-

plate.” His restaurants boast dishes that adhere to the technical roots and

pany guy (Corey Savella).

Q&A with He would Kent justRathbun walk in and we had access to

every element on the place is there with the purpose of elevating the dish.

restaurant meat.

And diners appreciate him for it, coming back more and more and always leaving wishing they had a bit more.

AF: What is one of your favorite food memories?

KR: On my fifth birthday, my dad said “what do you want for dinner?

In his home kitchen, Rathbun’s approach is no different – food is sourced

Resoundingly, I said “steak!” We went to Corey’s every year on my birthday.

or shot personally.

I got to skip school every year on my birthday and he would show me off, he was such a proud dad, and we would go to breakfast at Mohawk, then

“I shot my first rabbit as a child with my grandmother, I grew up eating

to the meat company. On my fifth birthday, Corey asked me how old I

from the land.” He also learned culinary diversity at a young age in the

was. “Five.” Then he would give me a five-dollar bill. Those are the things

presence of two foreign exchange students. This childhood adherence

that drive me and my brother.

to quality, resource and authenticity provided a wealth of knowledge and inspiration to young Rathbun.

AF: Why do you cook?

KR: I think cooking for people is a lovely thing to do. I cook on my day off

Rathbun, who taught himself to cook out of necessity and tradition,

because I simply love to cook. Food is such a glue for people.

became a chef at 21 with no formal training, joining the ranks of untrained chef gods. He credits exposure to fantastic chefs and products in various

AF: Tell me about the Elements line?

stints at four and five-star restaurants with his ability to excel on his own.

KR: I had two business partners in Texas, one unfortunately passed away

Mentors also exposed him to the art of finesse that has earned the chef

and the other was Bill Hue. Bill said we need to brand something – said I

praise for years over.

needed to “me” more than I do. He wanted to bottle some items that we had become known for – I was hesitant at first because I thought that we

“You have to walk the line, know the sauce needs a pinch of salt or lemon,

would not be able to retain the quality of the items. We couldn’t use fresh

steep fresh herbs to elevate a dish and these little things make the food

herbs, but that was how we discovered herb resin. I remember the BBQ

great. I have been known to walk the line and say throw in three onions –

sauce had cilantro resin that would go into it and it tasted like spring. We

it is the difference between a good meal and a great meal. It is the finesse

ended up being quite pleased with the test products and snuck them into

that makes you say, “Holy shit, I’ll never forget that!” It is the magic ele-

the restaurants to see what impact they would have on our diners. We

ment that makes you crave the food and leaves you wanting more. You

used them for a week – everything was accurate – they color, viscosity,

always have to leave them wanting more.”

flavor – no one knew they were eating a sauce wee had bottled. We knew we had a quality product.

Q&A WITH KENT RATHBUN

AF: Who was your mentor?

KR: I was blessed to work under and with some incredible chefs. Jim Mills (Houstonian Hotel) used to be at Mansion at Turtle Creek. He taught me

AF: What influences have you brought back from your travels?

the finesse of food and the art of managing and meeting people.

KR: My travel was kicked off during a stint at the Melrose Hotel when the executive chef asked if I had a passport. No? Well, we are going to need

AF: What do you consider the finesse of food?

to have that expedited – and he sent me off to Thailand – a cuisine which

KR: You have to walk the line, know the sauce needs a pinch of salt or

claims the most significant influence on my personal style of cooking. But

lemon, steep fresh herbs to elevate a dish and these little things make

I bring back the basics from all of my travels.

the food great. I have been known to walk the line and say throw in three onions – it is the difference between a good meal and a great meal. It is

AF: What is your favorite thing to cook with?

the finesse that makes you say, “Holy shit, I’ll never forget that!” It is what

KR: I just turned Tyson onto to Royal Red Shrimp – I cannot get enough

makes you crave the food and leaves you wanting more.

of these clean and sweet shrimp from Florida. Royal Red Shrimp are fished 4,000 feet deep – it is almost a shame to cook them. They are a dream

AF: What excites you most about cooking?

in ceviches.

KR: We take ordinary food and make it unordinary. I love that.

AF: What’s your favorite meal?

AF: What issues, if any, have you experienced with your recent expan-

KR: It’s been the same for 30 years. Ribeye or strip steak, seasoned very

sion to Austin?

well, cooked over wood. Corn on the cob, with a lot of butter. Fresh veg-

KR: We were surprised by the number of dissenters and people who

gies. A fantastic baked potato with lots of good stuff on it – start everything

equated us with Dallas. I said look – at the end of the day we are here

with a Caesar salad and end with something cherry or caramel.

to do business in your community, we are hiring Austinites and we enjoy being part of this great community. We want to give you good food in

AF: Why is quality important to you?

austinfoodmagazine.com

a good atmosphere and help enhance the lives of our patrons and staff.

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A L A C A RT E | COLD BRE W COF F EE BUSY METROPOLITAN CITIES LIKE AUSTIN ARE FILLED WITH THEIR SHARE OF COFFEE DRINKERS. Most Austinites make their coffee the old fashioned way using a coffee maker. Some of us even prefer grinding our own beans while inhaling that rich aroma we all savor. Almost nothing beats a cup of hot coffee, especially when the weather gets a bit nippy. We have a couple of months until the cold weather officially arrives, and not all Austinites have the ability to exercise patience in waiting for the temperatures to drop. Some of us want to enjoy our coffee without absorbing all the heat. Fortunately, Austin is home to several amazing cold brew coffee makers that allow us to sip our cup of joe, without burning our tongues. Here are a few of our favorites...

COFFER COLD BREW COFFEE Coffer, a handcrafted, locally bottled and brewed cold brew coffee is the newest addition to increasingly competitive, yet popular trend among coffee drinkers. Each sip of the naturally carbonated brew is aromatic, with invigorating flavor; perfectly fitting for the hot summer months Austinites regularly endure.

Developed by owner and creator Kevin Chen, the naturally carbonated cold brew coffee is not limited to only one form of consumption. Mix it with your cocktails, try it with leftover vanilla ice cream, or pop the cap and savor it straight from the bottle. It’s perfectly suited for nearly everything in between.

WRITTEN BY KARA HARDIN

KOHANA COLD BREW COFFEE Made from superior, single­origin organic beans, Kohana Coffee’s shelf­stable cold brew concentrate is slow roasted in small batches, then steeped in a proprietary cold brew process for a rich, mellow flavor. With infinite options for use (most mix it with milk or water, but coffee popsicles are a summer favorite) and four new varieties launching this summer in Mocha Java, Decaf, French Vanilla and Espresso flavors, there’s much to look forward to from this local favorite.

HIGH BREW COFFEE High Brew is the creation of an idea that was sparked in 2012 while David and Elizabeth Smith took their family on a amazing journey, island hopping through St. Thomas and Grenada. Wanting to stay alert during long nights of sailing, they discovered cold-brewed coffee. Discovery turned in to creation as they realized their new passion would become their lively hood. High Brew is a proprietary blend of Aarabica beans from Central and South America, roasted, ground and filtered to a smooth finish using cool temperatures, extracting naturally smooth flavors. The result is an ice cold, milkysweet beverage, perfect for any time of day. austinfoodmagazine.com

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Tech Tasteful

BY TAYLOR BUTLER

DINING OUT? LOSE WAIT. Ever walked into a crowded restaurant, learned that there is a 45­minute wait, and promptly walked out? Us too. Say goodbye to the wait and hello to NoWait.

The free wait­listing app allows hungry guests to search local dining spots by wait time, add their name remotely to a restaurant’s real­time list and track their place in line – enabling them to simply show up precisely when they’re table is ready.

Available in thousands of casual­dining restaurants nationwide, including many in the Austin area such as South Congress Café, The Park, and Third Base Sports Bar, the app is available for both Android and iOS. Launched in 2010 in Pittsburgh, NoWait unveiled its mobile app nationally earlier this year. Already, it is used in major national chains such as First Watch, Texas Roadhouse, On The Border and Buffalo Wild Wings, as well as popular independent hotspots like Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group's Eataly, Jose Garces' Village Whiskey, Marc Vetri's Pizzeria Vetri and Hubert Keller's Burger Bar. Regularly seating more than 5 million diners every month, NoWait has seated more than 50 million diners to date. You can be next.

For more information, visit nowait.com, follow @NoWaitApp and like it on Facebook at facebook.com/nowaitapp.

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TUSCANY IN TEXAS

Austin Food Magazine

S AVO R O U R FL AVO R | MUS T V ISI T

SINGING WATER VINEYARDS CAFE BLUE A celebration of coastal cuisine from around the world. Immerse yourself in our version of a tropical paradise, while dining on fresh seafood, aged steaks, Chef Ben’s famous clam chowder, unique burgers and sandwiches, and one of the best wine lists in the city. Of course, don’t forget our homemade key lime pie.

CafeBlueTX.com | 512.366.5230 Located @ Hill Country Galleria (near Dillard’s) Bee Cave, TX 78738

You will enjoy a visit to this scenic Hill Country vineyard and winery located up in the hills just south of Comfort on the banks of Bruins Creek. The tasting room, a rebuilt 100 year old Hill Country barn, greets you as you drive up to the winery. Park in the shade or tie your horse up to the old recycled wagon tailgate/sign out in front - and make yourself at home. A tour and tasting in this relaxed country atmosphere is sure to lower your stress level! Bring your picnic lunch and relax on the winery porch with a glass of award-winning Singing Water wine.

Thur - Sat 11-6 | Sun 12-5 | Mon 11-6 830.995.2246 | singingwatervineyards.com 316 Mill Dam Rd.Comfort, TX 78013

Brick Oven Restaurant PIZZA · PASTA · PARTIES

Downtown

12th & Red River 477-7006

FAVOR

South

Brodie & Slaughter 292-3939

Arboretum

183 & Braker Lane 345-6181

BRICK OVEN RESTAURANT Known for their award winning pizzas, Brick Oven has been serving

With Favor you can get anything you want in Austin delivered.

Italian food in Austin since 1982. All three locations are locally owned

Torchy's, Juice Land, or anything else your heart desires is just a tap away.

and operated, and have a little something for everybody. Pizza, pasta, gluten free options and a great variety of wines are just the beginning

For more information visit AskFavor.com

austinfoodmagazine.com

of what Brick Oven has to offer.

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Get FREE Official Visitor Info Kit

Unofficial birthplace of the annual

Girlfriendsfest!

There’s a reason groups of women flock to Fredericksburg.

Actually, there are several. On-and-off Main Street shops full of couture, modern and vintage home dĂŠcor, art galleries and more are only the beginning. Relaxing spa treatments. Delectable gourmet cuisine. Sweet creations from our bakeries and award-winning wineries to tour. Live music and spectacular views from one of our 350+ Hill Country B&Bs, guesthouses or inns. One tip: Save room for memories!

VisitFredericksburgTX.com | 866 997 3600

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Dinner is ready on time?

Surely, you’re joking!

It’s no joke. Meals ready on time, everytime.

(And don’t call me Shirley)

TM