Contents April 2015
§ Pg.33 surf profile by daisy gerdelan
§ Pg.12 interview by Miki henry
§ PG.28 Slow dance review By chante Kuhn
§ PG.20 life and style By jaz scales
§ PG.8 surfing latest news By daisy Gerdelan
§ PG.10 Carissa Moore Margret river blog by Miki henry
§ PG.39 short story By Chante Kuhn
§ Pg.18 duck tape international By Jaz scales
§ Pg.41 Photo gallery By Daisy Gerdelan
Feature Articles §
Pg. 37 Surf Spotting has your back by Jaz scales
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pg. 22 The Go to surf destination in indo by chante Kuhn
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Pg. 14 Surfed but some, feared by all by daisy gerdelan
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Pg. 16 Women’s surfing By Miki henry
Latest news in the surfing world After a incredible 23 years of riding for quicksilver Kelly slater has chosen to leave quicksilver and start up his own business with The Kering Group Kelly kindly wrote this letter explaining his chose to leave. Kelly: There is little I can say that would give the credit due or cover the debt of gratitude I feel on a personal and professional level to Quicksilver. As a brand and on a human level, they have been a part of my life, career, and personal relationships for more than 23 years now, well over half my life. They’ve supported me through good times and bad, personal hardships and competitive triumphs, and never wavered in backing my choices and desires in all that time. Under the tutelage of Bob McKnight, Bruce Raymond, Alan Green, Pierre Agnes and Danny Knock (and many others), Quicksilver signed me to a 100% sponsorship deal in 1990, finishing up my amateur career and guiding me into my professional life and adulthood. Having their support group around the world allowed me to create a life I only dreamt of as a child…making a documentary (Kelly Slater In Black and White) about the start of my professional career, going on boat trips and small charter planes to remote locations I’d likely never see, taking long car rides and promo tours to places I’d otherwise never visit, doing film trips to tropical islands few people have ever seen, etc. There could have been no better partner for me to have than Quicksilver. The memories I have of joining the team and becoming like brothers with my heroes and team riders Tom Carroll and Ross Clarke-Jones and making lifelong friendships with Stephen Bell and others has fulfilled my life exponentially. There aren’t enough pages or words to express my heartfelt thanks and appreciation for the experiences that have come from this relationship we’ve shared together. So it is with a heavy heart and a lifetime of positive memories that I move in a new chapter of my life.
As I contemplate the amazing opportunities I’ve had in life and the amount of good fortune I’ve encountered along the way, I’m excited to announce today that I’m embarking on a new journey. For years I’ve dreamt of developing a brand that combines my love of clean living, responsibility and style. The inspiration for this brand comes from the people and cultures I encounter in my constant global travels and this is my opportunity to build something the way I have always wanted to. So I am excited to tell you that I’ve chosen The Kering Group as a partner. They share my values and have the ability to support me in all of my endeavors. I look forward to exploring all of the new opportunities this partnership will provide, but this hasn’t happened by chance, nor has it happened without an incredible amount of work by a few key individuals. As I embark on this new journey, I am sticking to my gut instincts and the belief that your dreams can become reality with the right intentions. I look forward to sharing more about it soon… - Kelly
Carissa Moore Margret river blog By miki henry
The Final saw a rematch of 2013 and a seesaw battle at Main Break. It was Wright who struck first, logging a mid-range score but the Hawaiian answered back, belting a series of forehand turns for a 7.50, overtaking Wright for the lead. Following a lull, Wright delivered an explosive two-turn combination, netting an 8.00 to regain the lead at the halfway mark in the Heat. Moore took the lead once again following an additional exchange, netting a 6.87 to Wright’s 6.10 and immediately extended her lead with the highest score of the heat, an 8.23 for a powerful two-turn combination, securing her second consecutive Drug Aware Margaret River Pro victory. By defeating Australian Tyler Wright, Carissa Moore is in equal footing in points for first place with Stephanie Gilmore. At only the second stop on the Women’s WCT, Moore and Gilmore have sparked a heated rivalry. Just a little over a month ago at the Quicksilver Pro Gold Coast, Gilmore defeated Moore in the Semi-Finals. Again Moore and Gilmore found themselves facing each other in the Semi-Final. In the four to six foot surf, Carissa Moore edged herself a win over Gilmore and then Tyler in the Finals to claim her second win at the Margaret River Drug Aware Pro, a sight we will be seeing a lot of this year. -
Slow Dance Interview with Dane Reynolds Why slow dance? We struggled for a title, it took around 2-3 months because we didn’t want anything to direct or anything we had to relate to. But I came up with a few ideas and then Craig and I liked slow dance the best.
Which was the roll of marine layer in this film?
The idea came from Quicksilver getting it together but they kinda decided to just give us the money to make it and let us completely creative freedom with it and make the movie our selves. Which worked our really well. It ended up just being Craig, Dustin, barren and me. I ended up kind of the director and editor, which was cool to be the marine layer roll.
Any Discussions between you guys while making the film?
It was good we both liked what we were filming even thought Craig was too shy to tell us what he liked and didn’t like. But by the end of the film he got more confident and gave us more of his opinion but other wise he was easy and fun to work with.
That wave in Namibia,,,?
Craig had always wanted to surf it and he got so excited to get some waves and it turned out to be a prefect day with some of the best waves he had ever seen. ME personally I would love to surf it, I would travel really from any where In the world to surf it on a prefect day I guess.
Was that the hardest part of the movie in term of production?
It was rather easy because we all love surfing and we all love what we do. There were a few sticky situations wherein the mornings it would get really foggy and you could see the wave then in midday with the helicopter it was a bit of pressure on Craig to get a wave.
And what now?
I really enjoyed surfing and traveling so I want to try and do that for as long as I can. Weather that means another movie or just surf trips I don’t mind.
What about those Hurley pro trials?
I would love to be in that contest and I love the wave. It is pretty cool that it is open for anyone. After this film and spending time filming and editing I only really want to surf. So I think I will go home and get really into it and surf as much as I can and shape a few boards.
Have you ever surfed good waves in Spain? Yea I have surf Spain but it wasn’t that good but this on time when I was 16 haha 11 years ago I had the best wave here is Spain. But yea I would love to surf Spain a few more times.
BY Miki Henry
Surfed but some, feared by all By daisy Gerdelan
Surfed but some, feared by all
Body boarders slowly disappeared and the place got a new name.
Cape fear one of the many names given to a treacherous surf break in the middle of Sydney. It has been under the public eye of surfing for over a decade. It has a rich history that goes beyond the crashing waves and deadly cliff faces. Geography the break lies on the southern tip of botany bays opening, and only minutes around the corner of the historic land mark of captain cooks landing in 1770. He would have being sailing in and if he looked to his left and there was a big swell on the day he would have seen cape fear breaking.
“ its open to anyone in my eyes.. anyone but body boarders. It just get dangerous with there being so many of them. Ours which is cape fear and they have shark liner which is theirs.” Over the next ten years these local will put there new found wave in the for front of surfing media making is known around the world, but its not only the marobar locals that have concord the wave it has attracted some of the most best surfers for all over the world to try there luck there including 11 time world champ kelp Slater, women seven time world champ Layne beachley, big wave surfing legend ros Clark Jones, to name but a few. In 2011 Mark and his team also pulled off an historical all night surfing shoot, with a challenging swell from 10-‐12 foot in size.
Local conula surfers and body surfers, surfed the break sporadically through the mid-‐60s. Growing up around or near to the surf break they would have seen a few of the local men going out but would be told to get out by the rangers because of the breaks danger. For years body boarders claimed to break but kept it under rapes however is would soon become far from a secret as mark Matthews and the rest of marobas bra boys claimed the break. “ we saw it in a body board movie and it was footage of this wave that was flipped so that they made is the right hander it is, look like a left hander, to hide it from anyone knowing where is it and you could tell but the coast line it was somewhere local. We got a rough idea of where it is a headed over there on a swell liner and worked out where it was and yeah, started surfing it.” over the years we just went back there in ever swell condition and wind condition and figured out exactly what it needs to be to be perfect.”
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There has been much debate of the breaks history, discovery, name and owner ship... but one thing is grantee, when some of the worlds top big waves surfers go head to head in the worlds first Red Bull cape fear comp, the world will be tuning in the see how will fail and how will take on surfing ultimate battle.
Cape fear also know as cape Solander
The first ever all night surf shot in cape solander in 2011
Women surfing by Miki henry
If you hear the words women’s surfing history you imedantly think of gidget, but gidget was released in 1959 and the history of women surfing goes all the way back to 1600’s in Hawaii where the water is a place for both men and women to be equal. The first famous female surfer was called Mamala, she was recognized as being a fantastic and brave surfer. In 1905 a surfboard was found in princess kaneamuna cave dating back too 1600’s which was centuries before gidget. In 1914 the first women in Australian Isabel Lethem was too surf tandem with duke him self at freshwater beach. It wasn’t until 1970;s where the A.S.P annual circuit had a division for women. For women all around the world they spent years trying to be accepted as a surfer but because it is such a male dominated sport it wasn’t until recently they have been given opportunity to become a full time surfer.
The surfing culture and industry today has finally accepted women’s surfing and it is in courage for women to be out in the surf and enjoying the sunshine and surf. These days we have a world title completion for women and men. Or thought men are given $450000 for the overall prize packet mean while women only get $12000 which is extremely unfair but compared to what it used to be like for women this is better than it has ever been. Today the world of surfing has become more about looks and modeling than your surfing skills. Carissa Moore Is currently the best women surfer in the world but compared to profiles like Alana Blanchard or Laura evener she is hardly known. Even though Alana is coming last on the world ranking title score she is still the most popular surf probably of all time, because of her modeling and social media profile.
AS WORLD CHAMPION LAYNE BEACHLEY PUTS IT: 'IF THE WAVES ARE SHIT, SEND THE GIRLS OUT.' The competition world of surfing for women is hard enough with comps and less pay but on top of that women’s comps are held in small beach breaks where they are not giving the opportunity to surf their best or show their power. Where as men are surfing Fiji, Tahiti, Hawaii and all the best breaks in the world. Not only is the women comp in small beach breaks but when the women are competing alongside the men they send the women out on the dodgy days where the waves are smaller or Messer. AS WORLD CHAMPION LAYNE BEACHLEY PUTS IT: 'IF THE WAVES ARE SHIT, SEND THE GIRLS OUT.' Lucky the asp world tour are starting to see the women frustration and have start fix it by add Fiji, trestles and even Hawaii too the 2014 asp tour events.
Vans US open
Duck Tape Watch the
Presented
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July 26 2014 August 3 Huntington Beach Â
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Of Surfing
International Webcast
By Pacifico Â
Life and Style Green Smoothies
The perfect drink before or after a surf. Filled with nutrition & energy as well as keeping you hydrated and full. Here’s two recipes to get to started!
INGREDIENTS -
2 cups spinach, fresh 2 cups water 1 cup pineapple 1 cup mango 2 bananas
INSTRUCTIONS Blend spinach and water until smooth. Next, add the remaining fruits and blend again.
Bali is the most visited surf island in Indonesia. Â
Indonesia- A Surfer’s Paradise Don’t you long to forget the world- all your worries and demands- and just escape? Escape to your life-long dream of the perfect surfers paradise? Imagine sunbathing on an exotic island in Indonesia, sipping from a coconut and getting a massage. And when you get sick of that, which will take a while, you can just take a few steps and then suddenly you’re riding the perfect wave, with no one cutting you off or interrupting your peaceful surf? Imagine. Now Believe. With friendly people, a range of cheap accommodations and some of the most consistent and varied waves on the planet, Indonesia is a true surfers paradise. And this is no false advertisement. I have first hand experience. The surfer’s paradise is real and it is waiting for you. So where do you start?
1. Bali Bali is the most visited surf island in Indonesia. It is the famous home of Uluwatu, one of the most famous waves in the world among surfers. I have found that it is important not to stay at the expensive tourist hotels when you travel here, as you don’t get to experience the traditional Balinese surfing culture. Instead, I strongly recommend staying on smaller beaches, where the locals run all the cheap but quality restaurants, accommodation, and board repairs. For example, when I went in 2012 I stayed at Bingin Beach. It was a nice small beach run by locals, with an amazing surf break 1 minute away from my accommodation. Not only did I have everything I needed for my surf holiday right there at a cheap price, but I also got to know the locals and the culture, of which I would never have experienced in Kuta. Not only this but this beach is a small cab ride up to Uluwatu, a must for your surf holiday. But the best thing? It’s almost completely deserted, as people don’t really know about these places. You will be guaranteed peaceful surfs all day everyday, in a beautiful surfers paradise.
2. Lombok Despite the fact that Lombok's waves are not nearly as good as those on Bali or Sumbawa, I found that the island's only truly real marquee wave known as ‘Desert Point’, located in the South West cost of Lombok, definitely makes up for it. Though it its quality is not very consistent, trying out this wave will give you the opportunity to ride one of the best and longest barrels on the planet. Though I didn’t visit in the best conditions, many surfers believe Desert Point to be the best wave in the world when it is working. From experience, I strongly recommend spending time in Bali first; and from there, you can hop aboard one of the ferries, touching Lombok shores in less than three hours
3. Sumbawa Another great surfing destination, from experience, is the island of Sumbawa. Why? It is the surfer’s paradise, especially for the daredevils. It is the home to the extremely dangerous Scar Reef, a left barrel that gets bigger as it breaks over a shallow reef. While I was not game enough, my daredevil friends considered it their favorite wave. Sumbawa is only a 1hour ferry ride from Lombok, so it is a great end to your surf holiday.
What’s your favorite surf wax? By jasmine scale
Sex wax Far king Palmers Banana wax
Slow dance film review By Chante Kuhn Â
Slow dance film review
In this unique 30-minute colour surf film, famous Director and surfer, Dane Reynolds, takes a look into the timeless style of Craig Anderson. In the film, Craig provides vague but solid glimpses into his . Craig's perspective on his role as a professional surfer and Craig provides vague glimpses into his psyche. However, what does become clear is that Craig's approach to surfing and his outlook on life is truly unique. As the name implies, Slow Dance relies on long slo-mo cuts, a laid-back surfer soundtrack, and fuzzy VHS-style transitions. It is almost like a home video thrown together on a whim and a shrug, only with professional production utilizing some of the best lensmen. They use footage from Craig’s childhood, cheeky cameos, and professional shots of the finest barrel riding in recent memory to create this professional but goofy ‘home video’.
Slow dance film review
ow Dance follows Craig in the ocean and out, as he travels the orld meeting up with heroes and friends in Australia, Chile, dia, West Africa and Tahiti. As well as this footage, there are ite a few voice-over interviews to express Anderson’s extreme mbivalence to, well, everything. mple: Why does anyone do anything the way they do it? I don’t know. It’s a hard question ndo: answer. ane: Maybe there is no answer. ndo: Why do you drive a Volvo? ane: Why do you ride a single fin? ndo: Why is your hair parted to the side? ane: Why is your hair long? ndo: Why does anyone do anything the way they do it?
interesting film not only captures the essence of freesufing perfectly, but it’s laid back, almost ‘stoned’ theme paints a great picture of Craig Anderson’s style and how he wanted his surfing to be portrayed to the world. It is what it is, you know Slow dance film review In conclusion, if you have not seen Slow Dance, it is a must see. It is impressive without taking itself too seriously, and this is actually one of its biggest strengths. If not for the truly unique free surfing, watch it for the unique slice of life that it is. (CAPTION TO A PHOTO) Anderson’s style is shown in many different professional shots. He is not so much riding the entire wave, he is more about looking for big sections to blow out the fins or take to the sky. Just the same, he and Machado remain two of the last great surfers who ride their boards instead of the wave.
Creed Mctaggart Profile By Daisy Gerdelan
Creed McTaggart Creed McTaggart is not only a fresh face of surfing, but he is climbing the ladder of success fast. Most would say that Creed’s personality in the water and on shore are polar opposites. He is a humble in person but bold and assertive in the water. His very aggressive way of surf, combined with a fun and unique aspect to surfing, has mesmerised the world. It is hard for surfers to combine polar opposites when surfing, but somehow Creed can do it. He has intricacy yet the surfing is simplistic. He is easy going yet aggressive.
It all started when he was a kid. Many believe Creed has become the combination surfer we know as today-‐ soul guy, comp guy, big wave guy, future guy-‐ from growing up in Margaret River. A place where many pro surfers are visiting daily, Creed was bound to be introduced to the lifestyle. Being a teenager, he began to surf at first only because he thought it would get people to like him. But he soon found that he loved surfing for what is was.
Creed soon became a big hit with young generations, starring on the cover for many magazines. He was in the comp scene for a bit, and despite promises of a successful open career, he gave up on the scene. He came out publicly that it was because he is unhappy that he is being recognised for his looks instead of his surfing. For example, over the last month he has been on the cover of two magazines, but with not a board or a wave in sight. Now, Creed is beginning to surf more for the way it used to be for him-‐ chasing good waves and doing something different, should the occasion call for it. Being only 19, and having given up the comp life, Creed is currently looking for what he wants to do with his life. Creed has mastered many things in the last year or so one of them being starring in a short film can “Abyss” by Jay Grant.
As McTaggart says in STAB magazines and website, he really enjoyed starring in Jays short film and having a muck around with some of his other mates in the movie, one of them being Dylan Reeder (skater). But acting, modelling and comp are only chapters in Creeds life. The next is looking to be travel and surf, the things he is truly passionate about. “I want to travel as much as I can. I don’t have any plans to be anywhere more than one month. It’s all about keeping the travel spirit alive.
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Creed and friend in California filming YEAH DUDE
Surf Spotting’s got your back
By Jasmine Scales
Planning a surf trip away? Looking for some new surf spots? Download the app Surf Spotting, with over 9,600 spots, your set for you next weekend away! From off-shore bombies, remote reef breaks, gnarly ledges, sandy river mouths and long point breaks, Surf Spotting’s got your back! Surf spotting started when three close mates, one being my own dad, went down the south coast on a surf trip. They got to Kiama and the surf was terrible, the wind was on shore making it choppy and unenjoyable to surf in. This left them not knowing where to go and stuck camping in the rain, when all they wanted to be doing it surfing. The only spots they knew could possibly have some surf where 4 hours away. So they trekked it down there and enjoyed the rest of their weekend getaway. After a great day of surfing they were all gathered around the campfire talking. One of them mentioned wouldn’t it be great if there was an app that could tell us where all the good surf spots were. Dad being dad took this literally and was then suddenly demanded to make this app happen. This is how the idea started. After the trip away he downloaded every surfing app that related to alas, surf locations, weather and/or data. This gave Dad ideas of how to lay it out and the best formats and to make sure his idea wasn’t already taken. After doing this for possibly a year, he contacted some friends who knew people.
One of dads work colleagues gave him the name of an app developer who lived locally. Dad contacted him and proposed the idea to him and the developer came back to dad with a feed of roughly how much it was going to cost and everything that was going to need to be done. You’re probably asking what this app does. This app is ultimately a surf atlas, it provides over 3060 surfing brakes all over the world. You can search spots by putting in the current wind & swell conditions and it will provide you with a list of spots that work best in those conditions or if you know the name of a break you can search that or if you are just looking for new surfing spots you can search by state/region around the world. As if that isn’t enough you can also save your favourites and if your favourite break isn’t in there yet that easily fixed, just simply click add and boom there it is! Also newly added is a photo gallery of photos of waves that dad has taken or from other photographers that have agreed to let dad use them photos. So there you have it, the story behind Surf Spotting & what it has become. Follow my dad on his Instagram & Facebook INSTAGRAM - @surfspotting FACEBOOK – facebook.com/surfspotting
THE GREATEST COMBACK OF ALL TIME BY CHANTE KUHN
Bethany Hamilton
For Bethany, it came literally out of the blue. She had no warning at all; not even the slightest suggestion of danger on the waters, like you would expect. No dark storm clouds, no thunder, no choppy waves. Nothing to warn Bethany that something was not right. Instead it was broad daylight, the sun happily shining down at her, as if to say ‘nothing bad can happen’. The waves were small and inconsistent and Bethany relaxed on her white and blue surfboard, waiting for the surf to pick up. All was right, but the day would soon prove that appearances could be deceptive. It happened in a split second. There was a tsunami of splashes and Bethany felt lightning fast tugs on her left arm.
Sort of how Tommy, her toughlove younger brother, would tug my legs shouting ‘Play with me! Play with me!’ Though it was much stronger force. That’s strange, she thought to herself. She cupped her hands to her mouth, getting ready to shout at her parents who were sunbaking just off shore, so they could tell off her annoying brother.
That’s when Bethany saw the blood. She found herself in a daze, watching as the water around her turned bright red. She looked around in shock, not registering the fact that a shark had bitten off her arm, all the way up to her armpit. All she could see was the huge crescent-shaped chunk of her board missing from her favorite childhood board. Still in shock, she looked around, not believing that a shark had come and gone so quickly. But all she could see was blood. She felt bile rising up her throat. Her arm was gone. ‘I wonder if I’m going to loose my sponsor,’ she thought to herself before everything went black. Maybe it was God. Or maybe it was just her athletic body being able to cope with tremendous blood losses. Either way, Bethany Hamilton somehow survived that day. The funny thing was, it was almost as if getting her arm bitten off was just another thing that happened in her life. She wouldn’t let it define her, or control her life. Because one month later, Bethany was back in the water. People thought she would never surf again. But she did. In fact, she became a pro. She never let anyone’s words or whispers sway her from her dream. She worked at it, and against all odds, she got there.
v Photo gallery v
By Miki Jasmine, Daisy chante
Bibliography
"MORGAN MAASSEN." Brandon Costa Designer. N.p., n.d. Web. 22 May 2014. <http://www.brandoncosta.com/2013/06/05/morgan-maassen/>. "SurfSister.com.au." - Australia's Online Magazine For Women Surfers. N.p., n.d. Web. 22 May 2014. <http://www.surfsister.com.au/>. "Surf Apps - SURFER Magazine." SURFER Magazine Surf Apps Comments. N.p., n.d. Web. 22 May 2014. <http://www.surfermag.com/features/surfapps/>. "Red Bull Cape Fear." Red Bull Cape Fear. N.p., n.d. Web. 22 May 2014. <http://www.redbullcapefear.com/>. "IndoSurfLife.com." IndoSurfLife.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 22 May 2014. <http://indosurflife.com/>.