100%art exhibition catalogue

TEKSTIL + KOŽA u Bosni i Hercegovini 27. septembar - 6. oktobar 2012.

Gradska galerija COLLEGIUM ARTISTICUM Sarajevo / BiH

TEXTILE + LEATHER in Bosnia and Herzegovina From 27 September to 6 October 2012 Collegium Artisticum City Gallery Sarajevo / BiH ULUPUBIH Association of Applied Artists and Designer of Bosnia and Herzegovina

UDRUŽENJE LIKOVNIH UMJETNIKA PRIMIJENJENIH UMJETNOSTI I DIZAJNERA BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE

Sarajevo, 2012.

UDRUŽENJE LIKOVNIH UMJETNIKA PRIMIJENJENIH UMJETNOSTI I DIZAJNERA BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE ASSOCIATION OF APPLIED ARTISTS AND DESIGNERS OF BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Terezije bb, Skenderija Sarajevo, BiH +387 33 200 723, ulupubih@gmail.com www.ulupubih.com.ba

Izložbu organizuje ULUPUBIH u saradnji sa Vanjskotrgovinskom komorom BiH, uz finansijsku podršku Ambasade Norveške i Ministarstva za kulturu i sport Kantona Sarajevo.

The exhibition is organized by ULUPUBIH, in cooperation with Foreign Trade Chamber of Bosnia and Herzegovina, with financial support from the Embassy of Norway and Ministry of Culture and Sport of Canton Sarajevo.

Bosna i Hercegovina Federacija Bosne i Hercegovine KANTON SARAJEVO Ministarstvo kulture i sporta VANJSKOTRGOVINSKA KOMORA BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE

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ART OF TEXTILE AND LEATHER in Bosnia and Herzegovina The Association of Applied Artists and Designers of the BiH in cooperation with the Foreign Trade Chamber of Bosnia and Herzegovina

What has always defined our material culture is the creative work in the domain of textile and leather, which has been telling us the story of the life and time in which it ha demerged, trough different historical periods. The repositories of the museums in Bosnia and Herzegovina testify about a rich and diverse cultural heritage, which was left to us by the masters of the craft of processing various fabrics for clothing, as well as for decorative and other objects.

In the broad spectrum of textile processing today, artists and designers in Bosnia and Herzegovina have shown great innovativeness in combining modern design with traditional techniques, irrespective of the problematic status these professions have in our part of the world.

They actively and successfully participate both in the domestic and international fashion scene, offering new solutions in the area of pret-a-porter and one-of-the-kind fashion design items.

Deprived of interest and support of the socio-economic structures, this segment of creative work, these brave creative individuals who are dealing with the wide spectrum of textile and leather processing, and permanently making shifts from applied to fine art and vice versa, have already won numerous awards, recognitions and presentations, not only in the region, but also in the world capitals, such as Vienna, Paris, New York, Miami FL, etc.

With this exhibit, the Association of Applied Artists of BiH presents a segment of the country’s creative potential, drawing the attention to the efforts made by individuals, to their own initiatives, as well as to their engagement that deserves to be known by a wider domestic and international public and markets.

The need for a concerted effort of industry and creative individuals, which we has been seen in the experiences of European textile design and industry for quite a while, has brought us together with the Foreign Trade Chamber of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which has decided to organize, just a day after the opening of 100%ART exhibit, a round table that would try to find answers to the following questions: how much design do we make, and for whom we make it, to what extent, both locally and globally, the potential of BiH design remains untapped in, and whether incentives in creativity can motivate positive social changes, technical progress and the gaining of new knowledge in the domain of textile technology.

Other questions that interest us here is whether we could come to practical solutions that would enable us to place newly designed products on the market, and how to encourage young people, under the current circumstances, to find ways to use their creative work in order to influence their society.

Prof. Amra Zulfikarpašić President of the Association of Applied Artists and Designers of BIH Prevod Senada Kreso

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UMJETNOST TEKSTILA I KOŽE u Bosni i Hercegovini Udruženje likovnih umjetnika primijenjenih umjetnosti i dizajnera BiH u saradnji sa Vanjskotrgovinskom/spoljnotrgovinskom komorom BiH

Ono što odavnina određuje naše materijalnu kulturu je stvaralaštvo u tekstilu koje kroz istorijske periode priča o životu i vrijemenu u kojem je nastajalo. Fundusi bosanskohercegovačkih muzeja svjedoče o bogatoj i raznorodnoj kulturnoj baštini koju su nam ostavili vješti majstori obrade tkanine: odjevnih, ukrasnih, dekorativnih i drugih predmata.

U širokom spektru obrade tekstila danas, Bosanskohercegovački umjetnici i dizajneri inovativno spajaju savremeni dizajn i tradicionalne tehnike, ne obazirujući se na problematičan status ove djelatnosti kod nas. Aktivno i uspješno učestvuju u domaćoj i svjetskoj modnoj sceni nudeći svoja rješenja, konfekcijskog ali i unikatnog oblikovanja. Lišeni interesovanja i potpore društveno-ekonomskih struktura za ovaj segment kreativnog djelovanja ovi hrabri kreativci u širokom spektru obrade tekstila i kože krećući se između primjenjene i lijepe umjetnosti već za sobom imaju mnoge nagrade, priznanja i predstavljanja ne samo u regionu nego i modnim metropolama kao što su Viena, Paris, New York, Miami FL itd.

Udruženje likovnih umjetnosti primjenjene umjetnosti ovom izložbom prezentira dio domaćih kreativnih potencijala, ukazujući na napore pojedinaca, njihove vlastite inicijative i lične angažmane koji zaslužuju temeljitije upoznavanje i pažnju šireg auditorijuma; domaće i inostrane javnosti i tržišta.

Potreba za spregom industrije i kreativca što odavno srećemo u iskustvima evropskih tekstilaca udružila nas je sa Vanjskotrgovinskom komorom koja 26. 8. organizira okrugli sto na kojem i mi tražimo odgovore na pitanja "Koliko i za koga dizajniramo, koliko je, lokalno ali i globalno, neiskorišten potencijal BiH dizajna u sadašnjem trenutku i da li podsticaj kreativnosti može motivirati pozitivne socijalne promjene, tehnički napredak i nova znanje iz oblasti tehnologije tekstila. Pitanje koje nas interesuje je i da li možemo doći do praktičnih rješenja koja će omogućiti plasman dizajnerski osmišljenih novih proizvoda na tržište i kako u današnjoj situaciji ohrabriti mlade dizajnere da traže načine kojim svojim stvaralaštvom mogu uticati na društvo u kojem žive.

Prof. Amra Zulfikarpašić predsjednica ULUPUBIH-a

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100% ART - 100% MARKET There are four basic prerequisites for the functioning of textile industry: modern design, investment, production and market.

In an era when textile and fashion industries are almost non-existent in other countries, the fact that the ULUPUBiH and the Foreign Trade Chamber of BiH, supported financially by the Embassy of Kingdom of Norway to BiH and the Ministry of Culture and Sport of FBIH, have decided to organize an exhibit and a round table is a praiseworthy endeavor. Its goal is to connect artists who work with textile, leather (and the related media) with the textile industry.

The Selection Committee had a set of clearly harmonized criteria when selecting the works for the exhibit. 31 authors applied for the participation in the exhibit with 61 works. Final production of selected works was done in line with the strict requirements of both textile and fashion markets, no matter whether the works were of the pret-a-porter or of one-of-the kid- character.

Excellent Bosnian-Herzegovinian artists have demonstrated curiosity, playfulness, quality concepts, inventiveness, expertise in terms of the materials used, and the quality of final product. For them, functionality is of great importance, although esthetics is what prevails. The presented works were in the form of objects, conceptual installations, photographs and multi media/video works, fashion collections and objects, footwear, jewelry, headscarves and shawls, tapestries and kilims.

The production quality of the selected works of the already affirmed and established artists is enviable, however, we have to mention here the works made by students of the Academy of Fine Arts in Sarajevo. These mature, inventive, rebellious and full of the sense of humor student works are the consequence of their own talent, but also of an excellent approach and individual work of their mentors.

Such a quality selection of student works in the medium of textile and leather is the reason enough to demand the establishment of a new Textile Department at the Academy of Fine Arts in Sarajevo.

The authors presented at this exhibit are faced with a great challenge and a major task, since they will have to ”reconcile” within a given space the conceptual works, such as Lifestyle by Amila Smajović, the Panem et Circenses dress by Aida Korman, Fashion Band by Ljiljana Majkić, with works inspired by the cultural heritage, such as Bosančica Alphabet by Amra Zulfikarpašić, Pompon by Amila Smajović, kilims Dot, Dot, Dot by Nataša Perković, functional collection such as the works of Belma Lizde Kurt, rebellious and humorous student works, such as Lollypop Shoes by Belma Arnautović, the Riders of Apocalypse by Azra Štilić, Egg by the Arnautalić&Nuhić Duo, Phersu by Neira Sinanbašić, the Sleepwear collection by Ina Nikolić, the Click Material by Nevena Nikolić, SHE Bag You and PLAY Book Case by Adisa Vatreš, bags designed and made by Plema Arnautalić... to the Transformable Overalls by Milan Senić, and the Reverse suit by Sulejman Šaćirbegović…

To conclude, one should consider the possibility of establishing this project/exhibit as a traditional, biennial event that would also include awards and recognitions. In the time of recession and the crisis of morality, projects of this excellence can never be successful enough at the first go. That is why they need to be repeated, while, at the same time, creativity needs to be motivated, since - if judged by the quality of the presented works - the creativity we have seen at this exhibit is inexhaustible.

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Ivana Bakal Prevod Senada Kreso

100% ART - 100% TRŽIŠTE Da bi tekstilna industrija mogla funkcionirati moraju postojati četiri osnove: suvremeni dizajn, investicija, proizvodnja i tržište.

U vremenu kada tekstilno-modna industrija u ostalim zemljama regije gotovo da i ne postoji, ovo je hvale vrijedan poduhvat organiziranja izložbe sa okruglim stolom u saradnji ULUPUBIHa i Vanjskotrgovinske komore BiH, uz financijsku potporu Ambasade Kraljevine Norveške u BiH i Ministarstva za kulturu i sport Kantona Sarajevo, sa ciljem povezivanja umjetnika iz medija tekstila, kože (i srodnih medija) sa industrijom tekstilne proizvodnje.

Selektivna komisija imala je jasno usuglašene kriterije i stavove pri odabiru radova.

Za selekciju je bio prijavljen 31 autor sa 61 radom. Finalna produkcija izabranih radova odgovora strogim zahtjevima tekstilnog i modnog tržišta, bez obzira da li se radi o konfekcijskom ili unikatnom oblikovanju.

Bosansko-hercegovačke vrsne umjetnike krasi znatiželja, sklonost ka igri, dobra koncepcija, invencija, likovnost, poznavanje materije i kvaliteta izvedbe. Bitna je funkcionalnost, ali prevladava estetika. Prezentirani radovi su u obliku objekata, konceptualnih instalacija, fotografija i multimedije/video radova, modnih kolekcija i predmeta, obuće, nakita, oglavlja i marama, šalova, tapiserija i ćilima.

Zavidna je kvaliteta produkcije izabranih radova već afirmiranih i etabliranih umjetnika uz koje treba istaknuti radove studenata ALU. Zreli, inventivni, duhoviti i buntovni studentski radovi posljedica su talenata samih umjetnika, ali i odličnog pristupa i individualnog rada mentora sa njima. Ovako kvalitetan izbor studentskih radova u mediju tekstila i kože dovoljan je razlog neophodnosti osnivanja novog zasebnog smjera tekstila na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti u Sarajevu.

Veliki izazov i zadatak biti će na autoru postava izložbe koji će u prostoru morati «pomiriti» konceptualne radove poput Stila života / Amile Smajović, haljine Hljeba i igara / Aide Korman, Fashion banda / Ljiljane Majkić sa radovima inspiriranim kulturnom baštinom poput Bosančice / Amre Zulfikarpašić, Kitica / Amile Smajović, ćilima Dot, dot, dot/ Nataše Perković, funkcionalnih kolekcija poput radova Belme Lizde Kurt, studentskih buntovnih i duhovitih radova poput cipelica Lolipop / Belme Arnautović, Jahača apokalipse / Azre Štilić, Jajeta / tandema ArnautalićNuhić, rada Phersu / Neire Sinanbašić, kolekcije Sleepwear / Ine Nikolić, Click materijala / Nevene Nikolić, SHE bag you i PLAY book case / Adise Vatreš, torbi PlemeArnautalić... do Transformabilnog kombinezona / Milana Senića i odijela Reverse / Sulejmana Šaćirbegovića…

Za kraj, treba razmisliti o mogućnosti utemeljenja ovog projekta/izložbe kao tradicionalne bijenalne manifestacije sa dodjelom nagrada i priznanja. U doba recesije i krize morala, ovakvi i slični odlični projekti ne uspijevaju u svim svojim zamislima od prve. Zato treba opetovano ponavljati i poticati na stvaralaštvo, jer po kvaliteti radova, ono je neiscrpno.

Ivana Bakal

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Exhibitors:

Adisa Vatreš – collection "She bag you" + photos and "PLAY bookcase" + video Aida Korman – dress "Bread and circuses" Amila Smajović – carpet collection "Lifestyle", "ZEH" jewelry & collection "Kitice" Amra Zulfikarpašić – tapestry "Hors" and carpet collection "Bosančica" Anida Kapo – "WearWolf" photos Ata Omerbašić – clothing "ATA 2012" + photos Azra Štilić – collection "4 horsemen of the Apocalypse" + photos, shoes "Inspired by Dali" and "Paloma Negra" + photos Belma Arnautović – shoe collection "Lolice" + photos Belma Lizde Kurt – photos "Beatle", "Spring walk", " Little Mimi's diligent hands" and coat "Tree" Edina Hadžić – collection "Equilibrium" and photos Ina Arnautalić i Hatidža Nuhić – "Egg" collection + photos Ina Nikolić – collection"Sleepwear" and photos Ljiljana Majkić – collection "Fashion Band" Ljiljana Šaković-Mujan – collection "Transformations" Marijana Kramarić – “Memory of sand” instalation Milan Senić – "Transformative overalls" Naida Begović – raincoat + photos of raincoat collection Nataša Erić – raincoat"Orgasm" Nataša Perković – rug "Dot, Dot, Dot" Neira Sinanbašić – costume "Phersu", video + photos Nevena Nikolić – "Click" materijal + photos Plema Arnautalić – bags Sulejman Šaćirbegović Sule – suit "Reverse1"

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Izlagači:

Adisa Vatreš – kolekcija "She bag you" + fotografije i "PLAY bookcase" + video Aida Korman – haljina "Hljeba i igara" Amila Smajović – kolekcija tepiha "Stil života", "ZEH" nakit i kolekcija "Kitice" Amra Zulfikarpašić – tapiserija "Konj" i Kolekcija "Bosančica" Anida Kapo – fotografije rada "WearWolf" Ata Omerbašić – odjeća "ATA 2012" + fotografije Azra Štilić – kolekcija "4 jahača apokalipse" + fotografije, cipele "Inspired by Dali" i "Paloma Negra" + fotografije Belma Arnautović – kolekcija cipela "Lolice" + fotografije Belma Lizde-Kurt – fotografije "Buba", "Proljetna šetnja", "Vrijedne ruke male Mimi" i model "Drvo" Edina Hadžić – kolekcija "Ekvilibrijum" i fotografije Ina Arnautalić i Hatidža Nuhić – "Jaje" kolekcija + fotografije Ina Nikolić – kolekcija "Sleepwear" sa fotografijama Ljiljana Majkić – kolekcija "Fashion Band" Ljiljana Šaković-Mujan – kolekcija "Transformacija" Marijana Kramarić – "Memory of sand" instalacija (odjeća+video) Milan Senić – "Transformabilni kombinezon" Naida Begović – kabanica + fotografije kolekcije kabanica Nataša Erić – kabanica "Orgasm" Nataša Perković – ćilim "Dot, dot, dot" Neira Sinanbašić – kostim "Phersu", video + fotografije Nevena Nikolić – "Click" materijal + fotografije Plema Arnautalić – torbe Sulejman Šaćirbegović Sule – odijelo "Reverse1"

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AdISA VATrEŠ 1. Kolekcija "She:bag you", šivenje kože/eko velur, prototipovi torbi + promo video, 2011.

2. "PLAY bookcase" - obrada textila i drveta, prototip police, video rad, 2009.

Foto: IRFAN REDŽOVIć

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AIDA KORMAN Haljina iz kolekcije "Hljeba i igara", ruÄ?ni rad, papirni novac, 2003/12.

Foto: VANJA LISAC

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AMILA SMAjOVIć 1. "Zeh nakit", komplet, uzlana vuna, 2011.

2. "Kitica", kolekcija predmeta, tkanje/klečanje, 2011.

3. Tapiserija "Stil života", 4 komada, tkanje/klečanje, 2012. na str. 18/19 Foto: VANJA LISAC

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Foto: VANJA LISAC

AMrA ZuLfIKArPAŠIć 1. "Bosančica", kolekcija tkanih/klečanih predmeta sa motivom bosančice, 2011.

2. Tapiserija "Konj" iz serije "Poetika šare", 2011.

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ANIdA KAPO Serija fotografija odjeće od kože "WearWolf", 2012.

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ATA OMErBAŠIć ATA 2012 multifunkcionalna odjeća Foto: VANJA LISAC

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Foto: AZRA ŠTILIć

AZrA ŠTILIć 1. Cipele "Paloma Negra", 2010.

2. Cipele "Homage to Salvador Dali", 2010.

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AZrA ŠTILIć 1. Korzeti "4 jahača apokalipse", Houte couture – mit ili stvarnost, 2010.

Foto: AZRA ŠTILIć

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BELMA ArNAuTOVIć Kolekcija cipela "Lolice", 2011.

Foto: GORAN LIZDEK

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30 Foto: MIDHAT MUJKIć

BELMA LIZdE-KurT 1. "Buba" interaktivna odjeća, fotografija, 2011.

2. "Proljetna šetnja" interaktivna odjeća, fotografija, 2011.

3. "Vrijedne ruke male Mimi" interaktivna odjeća, fotografija, 2011.

4. "Jabuka", interaktivna odjeća, objekat, 2012.

EdINA HAdŽIć "Ekvilibrijum", modni dizajn, 2012.

Foto: MIRZA HASANEFENDIć

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Foto: amilafleur.com

HATIdŽA NuHIć I INA ArNAuTALIć "Jaje", 2012.

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HATIdŽA NuHIć I INA ArNAuTALIć "Jaje", 2012.

Foto: amilafleur.com

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INA NIKOLIć "Sleepwear", odjeća za odmor, 2004.

Foto: INA NIKOLIć

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Foto: VANJA LISAC

LjILjANA MAjKIć Kolekcija "Fashion Band", 2012.

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Foto: VANJA LISAC

LjILjANA ŠAKOVIć-MujAN "Transformacija", 5 haljina, tekstil, 2012.

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MArIjANA KrAMArIć "Memory of sand", 2012.

Pijesak, sjecanje, boja, emocija kao tema kolekcije i instalacije

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MILAN SENIć Transformabilni kombinezon, 2009.

Foto: VANJA LISAC

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NAIdA BEgOVIć Kolekcija kabanica "UNDERBODY - body language", 2012.

Foto: IRFAN REDŽOVIć

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Foto: VANJA LISAC

NATAŠA ErIć Kabanica "Orgasm", Ižigalni tisk, 2012.

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NATAŠA PErKOVIć ćilim "Dot, Dot, Dot", 2007.

Foto: VANJA LISAC

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NEIrA SINANBAŠIć Kostim "PHERSU", 2012.

Foto: IRFAN REDŽOVIć

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56 NEVENA NIKOLIć "Click" modularni materijal, 2011.

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PLEMA ArNAuTALIć Torbe, 2009-2012.

Foto: VANJA LISAC

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SuLEjMAN ŠAćIrBEgOVIć SuLE Odijelo "Reverse 2009/1"

100% ART, TEXTILE + LEATHER in Bosnia and Herzegovina ULUPUBIH in cooperation with the Foreign Trade Chamber of Bosnia and Herzegovina

The project 100%ART of the Association of Applied Artists and Designers of BiH in cooperation with the Foreign Trade Chamber of BiH was launched by the end of 2011 at the initiative Amra Zulfikarpašić, President of ULUPUBIH and Professor of the Academy of Fine Arts in Sarajevo, and Elma Kovačević, Secretary of the Association for Textile, Clothing, Leather and Footwear of the Foreign Trade Chamber of BiH, and coordinated by Mila Melank, graphic designer and Secretary of ULUPUBIH. The goal of the project is to present recent works of BIH authors, primarily fashion designers, applied artists, product designers and all those who use textile, leather and related materials in their work.

Upon consultations with authors in the field of textile creativity, a public competition was announced on 1 July 2012, with an invitation extended to all the authors from BiH to apply with maximum four works. The competition was open until 4 September, while selection of works was conducted on 10 September.

Jury, consisting of Prof. Ognjenka Finci, of the Academy of Fine Arts and the Faculty of Architecture in Sarajevo, Ivana Bakal, costume designer and the President of the Association of Applied Artists of Croatia, and Sanja Džeba, costume and set designer, selected the works to be presented at an exhibit to be held at the Collegium Artisticum City Gallery from 27 September to 6 October 2012.

In addition to the exhibit, the Association of Textile, Clothing, Leather and Footwear of the Foreign Trade Chamber of BiH, organized, on 28 September, a round table on "The Future of Textile and Clothing Industry in Europe – the Experiences of FR Germany".

The project received financial assistance from the Embassy of the Kingdom of Norway and the Ministry of Culture and Sports of the Canton of Sarajevo.

Prevod Senada Kreso

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100% ART - TEKSTIL + KOŽA u Bosni i Hercegovini ULUPUBIH u saradnji sa Vanjskotrgovinskom komorom BiH

Projekat 100%ART Udruženja likovnih umjetnika primijenjenih umjetnosti i dizajnera BiH u saradnji sa Vanjskotrgovinskom komorom BiH nastao je krajem 2011. godine, na inicijativu predsjednice ULUPUBIH-a prof. mr. Amre Zulfikarpašić, profesorke Akademije likovnih umjetnosti u Sarajevu i mr. sci. Elme Kovačević, sekretarke Asocijacije za tekstil, odjeću, kožu i obuću Komore, uz koordinaciju Mile Melank, grafičke dizajnerke, sekretarke Udruženja.

Cilj projekta je da predstavi recentne radove bosanskohercegovačkih autora, prije svega modnih dizajnera, primijenjenih umjetnika, produkt dizajnera i svih onih koji u svom radu koriste tekstil, kožu i srodne materijale.

Nakon konsultacija sa autorima iz oblasti tekstilnog stvaralaštva, 1. jula 2012. je raspisan javni konkurs na koji su pozvani bosanskohercegovački autori, sa maksimalno četiri rada. Konkurs je bio otvoren do 4. septembra, a selektiranje radova obavljeno je 10. septembra. Žiri u sastavu: Prof. mr. Ognjenka Finci, profesorka na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti i Arhitektonskom fakultetu u Sarajevu, Ivana Bakal, kostimografkinja, predsjednica Udruženja primijenjenih umjetnika Hrvatske i Sanja Džeba, kostimografkinja i scenografkinja, selektirao je radove za izložbu koja se održava u Gradskoj galeriji Collegium artisticum od 27. septembra do 6. oktobra 2012. Godine.

Osim izložbe, Asocijacija tekstila, odjeće, kože i obuće Vanjskotrgovinske komore BIH je 28. septembra organizovala Okrugli sto "Budućnost tekstilne i odjevne industrije u Evropi – Iskustva SR Njemačke".

Projekat su finansijski pomogli Ambasada Kraljevine Norveške i Ministarstvo za kulturu i sport Kantona Sarajevo.

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TEKSTIL + KOŽA u Bosni i Hercegovini TEXTILE + LEATHER in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Urednice kataloga/Editors: Mila Melank & Amra Zulfikarpašić Izdavač/Publisher: uLuPuBIH Dizajn/Design: Mila Melank Postavka izložbe/Exhibits arranged by: Amra Zulfikarpašić Prevod/Translation: Senada Kreso Tiraž/Circulation: 200

Tisak/Print: PRINTEXPRESS Papir/Paper: plike 330g i munken polar 150g

UDRUŽENJE LIKOVNIH UMJETNIKA PRIMIJENJENIH UMJETNOSTI I DIZAJNERA BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE ASSOCIATION OF APPLIED ARTISTS AND DESIGNERS OF BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Terezije bb, Skenderija Sarajevo, BiH +387 33 200 723, ulupubih@gmail.com www.ulupubih.com.ba

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