BelGuest magazine

Belgrade Visitors’ Magazine

Volume 8, SUMMER 2008

free copy

INTERVIEW NIKITA MIKHALKOV THE HISTORY OF A MAN DUNGEONS OF BELGRADE A WORLD UNDERNEATH THE SURFACE

MONASTERY OF MILEŠEVA THE HOME OF THE FIRST SERBIAN SAINT CITY BREAK BELGRADE AND NOVI SAD

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D U N G E O N S O F B E LG R A D E A WORLD UNDERNEATH THE SURFACE SVET ISPOD POVRŠINE

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INTERVIE W - N I K I TA M I K H A L KO V THE HISTORY OF A MAN ISTORIJA ČOVEKA

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DA N I LO K I Š WANDERING KNIGHT VITEZ LUTALICA

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B E LG R A D E M U M M Y BUTTERFLY EFFECT LEPTIROV EFEKAT

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C I T Y B R E A K B E LG R A D E THE EXCHANGE OF SHORT VACATIONS BERZA KRATKOG ODMORA

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CITY BREAK NOVI SAD ODE TO JOY ODA RADOSTI

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6 6 S I E PA INVEST IN SERBIA - THE TIME IS NOW PRAVO VREME ZA INVESTIRANJE 76

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TO S R E CO M M E N D S TOUCH OF NATURE DODIR PRIRODE

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M O N A S T E R Y O F M I L E Š E VA THE HOME OF THE FIRST SERBIAN SAINT DOM PRVOG SRPSKOG SVETITELJA

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AQUA LINE HYDROPLANE FERRY FLYING CRUISE LETEĆA PLOVIDBA

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Belgrade Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Strahinjića bana 27 tel./fax 26 333 60, 29 101 06, mob tel. 065/84 97 582 e-mail: belguest@ikomline.net, belguest@gmail.com www.emins.org/belguest Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.yu www.tob.co.yu For Publisher - Za izdavača: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor For Copublisher - Za suizdavača: Olivera Lazović, direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Photo Editor - Urednik fotografije: Branko Jovanović Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Ivan Jočović, Branko Jovanović, Vlada Marković, Miloš Janković Contributors - Saradnici: Luka Stanisavljević, Vladimir Počuč, Jovan Sekulić, Jelena Tasić, Snežana Stojanović, Tanja Vanić Dragomir Antonić, Branislav Anđelković Photographs- Fotografije: Branko Jovanović, Dragan Bosnić, Nemanja Pančić, Danilo Peternek Editorial Secretary - Sekretar redakcije: Ana Gligorijević Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković, Miodrag Vujić, Marija Čikeš Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević English language editor - Lektor za engleski: Alex Todorović Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design&Layout - Dizajn i prelom: Miroslav Zeljug Design assistante - Pomoćnik dizajnera: Ana Gligorijević Print - Štampa: Tipografic plus, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization Front Page - Naslovna strana: Epocar’s La Contessa, oldtimer replica motor car in front of the City Assembly of Belgrade Photograph - Branko Jovanović CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief = glavni i odgovorni urednik Dragana Marković - 2001, spring, / Beograd : Izdavačko preduzeće PONT : Turistička organizacija Beograda, 2001(Beograd, Tipografic plus). - 29 cm Tromesečno ISSN 1451-6446 = BelGuest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

photograph - Branko Jovanović

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U V O D N I K

Dear Belgrade Visitors, Here comes another hot Belgrade summer, and with it, more guests passing through our city heading to seaside destinations, in the mountains, lakes and spas.

To all of you who are passing through Belgrade, I wish you a pleasant stay, convinced that you will spend a part of your vacation in our capital city, which this year celebrated 70 years since officially becoming a tourist destination. I am also certain that you will enjoy the beautiful view of the mouth of the Sava River into the Danube, visit Belgrade’s cultural-historical monuments, Ada Ciganlija -- the favourite bathing beach and picnic grounds of Belgrade residents. I hope you will feel the beat of Belgrade’s contemporary life in the Bohemian quarter of Skadarlija, the squares and streets of Belgrade, or maybe look at “underground Belgrade” – the numerous underground passages you can read about in this issue of the magazine.

Belgrade awaits its guests during summer with a plethora of cultural events. In the middle of July, we kick off the traditional Belgrade Summer Festival – BELEF, while the summer ends with the most famous festival of the new theatrical tendencies – BITEF. Along with these two festivals, Belgrade has another two very attractive events you can read about in this issue: Beer Fest and Boat Carnival.

Belgrade has always proudly kept the memories of its residents, whose work outlived their era and became part of the world’s heritage. One such Belgrade resident you can read about in this issue is writer Danilo Kis, who passed away in 1989, after living tempestuously for only 54 years.

Belgrade and its tourist workers carefully try to make our city an important and inevitable destination in the region, especially in the field of cultural tourism.

Belgrade is a city of amiable hosts and everyone who has visited it once wishes to return.

Therefore, welcome to Belgrade!

Zoran Alimpić Acting Mayor of Belgrade

Dragi gosti Beograda,

Skupština grada Beograda City Assembly of Belgrade

Turistička organizacija Beograda Tourist Organization of Belgrade

Stiže nam još jedno vrelo beogradsko leto, a s njim i sve više gostiju koji prolaze kroz naš grad na putu ka turističkim destinacijama na moru, planinama, jezerima, banjama.

Svima vama koji ste na proputovanju kroz Beograd želim prijatan boravak, uveren da ćete deo svog odmora provesti u našoj prestonici, koja je ove godine proslavila sedamdeset godina turizma: da ćete na Kalemegdanu uživati u predivnom pogledu na ušće Save u Dunav, obići njegove kulturno-istorijske spomenike, Adu Ciganliju, omiljeno kupalište Beograda, okolna izletišta, doživeti damare njegovog savremenog života u boemskoj Skadarliji i na trgovima i ulicama, ili, možda, pogledati „Beograd ispod Beograda“ – mnogobrojne lagume kojima je isprepleteno podzemlje grada, o čemu se možete obavestiti u ovom broju časopisa.

Beograd leti svoje goste dočekuje i mnoštvom kulturnih manifestacija. Sredinom jula počinje tradicionalni Beogradski letnji festival – BELEF, a leto se završava najpoznatijom svetkovinom novih pozorišnih tendencija BITEF-om. Pored ta dva festivala, u ovom broju možete pročitati i o dve veoma atraktivne manifestacije: Bir-festu i karnevalu brodova.

Beograd je uvek ljubomorno čuvao uspomene na svoje žitelje čija su dela prerasla svoje vreme i postajala deo svetske baštine. Jednog od takvih Beograđana, pisca Danila Kiša, koji nas je napustio 1989, burno proživevši samo 54 godine, upoznaćete u ovom broju.

Beograd i njegovi turistički poslenici brižljivo se trude da naš grad postane značajna i nezaobilazna destinacija u ovom regionu, naročito u oblasti kulturnog turizma.

Beograd je grad ljubaznih domaćina i svako ko tu jednom dođe poželi i da mu se vrati.

Zato, dobro došli u Beograd!

Zoran Alimpić v.d. gradonačelnika Beograda

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BELGRADE - ID

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elgrade lies on the Balkan Peninsula in South-Eastern Europe. The city developed on the high ground above the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. Thanks to its advantageous position as the natural crossroads of East and West, Belgrade has been known throughout history as the Gateway to the Balkans and the Gateway to Central Europe.

The city’s first name was Singidunum, apparently coined from the name of the Singa tribe and the Celtic word dunum, meaning fortification. With the arrival of the Slavs it became Beo Grad, the White City. Under the reign of Despot Stefan Lazarević, Belgrade became, and remains, the capital of the Serbian nation. It is the only city apart from Constantinople which is dedicated to the Mother of God, and celebrates its own religious fete on the moveable feast of the Ascension. This old feast symbolises the perennial rise of the city from ruin and its inexhaustible faith in the future.

The city covers a total area of 322,268 hectares. It is divided administratively into sixteen municipalities, ten urban and six suburban. The most recent census, in 2002, recording the city as having a population of 1,576,124 permanent residents of whom 1,273,651 live in the inner city area.

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S I G H T S E E I N G

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A WORLD UNDERNEATH THE SURFACE Unknown tunnels, passages and hallways that span below Belgrade’s surface, like the flow of blood in the body, are reflections from the depths of the Earth, vestiges of distant and ancient times. Some of those reflections are the remains of distant Roman roads, starting from Avala Mountain, the mines of mercury, silver and conobarit that have been there since pre-historic times. Tašmajdan Park, Zemun, Karađorđeva Street, Kalemegdan Fortress and Avala Mountain – all are part of the city’s rich heritage, but their undergrounds are a legend in the living city that has always been veiled by hints of mystery, legends and questions waiting to be answered.

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aking into account the Vinča culture, our city can be measured with Athens and Rome.

When listening to historians, you will easily conclude that, say Berlin or Paris are cities with much shorter histories than ours, the history of Belgrade. An encounter with the unusual world beneath the surface of the city is another way to learn more about Belgrade. Its underground galleries and chambers, some of which you can visit when accompanied by an adept tourist guide, bear witness of the need of almost everyone who has lived here during the city’s long history to hide, preserve or reveal something there, beneath the ground.

For some areas underneath the surface of the city, there is no official explanation even today: what their purpose was or who dug them, whereas for some, there are detailed and precise maps allowing you to stroll down the city’s underground.

TAŠMAJDAN – THROUGH THE HALLWAYS OF HISTORY If there is a mysterious place in Belgrade as old

as the city itself, recording both its good and hard times – that’s certainly Tašmajdan. Only several metres under the surface run the remnants of a two-millennium-old water supply system; the skeleton of Tašmajdan also contains church treasuries and crypts, the military headquarters of the once powerful Wehrmacht Empire and the location where Nazi victims perished.

What is probably the city’s oldest mine is located at Tašmajdan, from whose stone sarcophagi were made; later it turned out that those were long-lasting dwellings for Roman denizens of the city, who lived in it 2,000 years ago.

The Tašmajdan stone was used to build houses, palaces and temples in the old Roman culture, as well as parts of the water supply system, which run all the way to the Roman fortification that stood where Kalemegdan stands today.

The records say there was a mine there from which saltpetre was taken for the production of gunpowder. During the First World War, many Belgraders hid there seeking salvation from the Austro-Hungarian cannons. It is little known

that the well-known endower of Belgrade, Ilija Milosavljević-Kolarac, was engaged in the excavation of saltpetre from Tašmajdan caves.

Tašmajdan was the place from where the leader of the First Serbian Uprising, Karađorđe, took his rebels to liberate Belgrade from the Turks in 1806. He set up his headquarters in the caves of Tašmajdan. The Smederevo road – one of the most important roads of the time – runs that way. The Turkish decree of the sultan, in Serbian known as hatišerif, was publicly read there. It brought hope and the long-expected truth that Serbia would finally get rid of its Turkish chains and become independent at last.

Tašmajdan got its name in Turkish times; in Turkish taš refers to stone, and majdan – mine.

Geologists, who searched the upper and lower part of Tašmajdan for quite a long time, came up with some conclusions that are quite interesting.

Once upon a time, long ago, Tašmajdan touched the waves of the now disappeared Pannonian Sea. Judging from the evidence of geological findings, this was the last of the hills in the mountain

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ranges of the Carpathians on the way to Belgrade, of almost the same composition as the mountain massif.

Underneath the surface of Tašmajdan Park, there are many chambers, the first being the oldest and awaiting its visitors just passed the entrance and two-way staircases. The area is now paved with concrete, and there are metal doors at the end of the hallway leading to further labyrinths.

One of the former quarries was organised there long before the Second World War. At the time of Duke Miloš, the digging continued, after which the former Kingdom of Yugoslavia used it for its defence projects, which the Germans adeptly took over immediately after they occupied the city. The soldiers of Wehrmacht stayed there and worked on the construction through the TOT Company, in order to adapt Tašmajdan for the needs of the German headquarters in Belgrade as well as for the “removal” of then prominent Serb prisoners.

The project of adaptation was done by Jakov Bezlaj, who with a group of Czechs, Slovaks and Slovenians, was brought to Belgrade. During the construction, there were no Serb witnesses.

All underground areas of Tašmajdan were once connected, whereas now they are mostly disconnected and blocked. The reasons are not so important today, but it is certain that it is still not known what is really there.

Behind one of Tašmajdan’s walls run the waters of some old water systems or waterways; they have existed under Belgrade for a long period of time.

People say that the notorious German General Von Ler, during the operation to liberate Belgrade, used the underground to flee to Slovenia, where he was arrested. Today, many questions still remain open.

Will the closeness of the crypts near the Church of Saint Marko give a logical answer to the ques-

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tion where one of the tunnels from another cave leads as its direction looks completely illogical and unaligned with the underground construction, or will we get an answer to the question whether the fourth cave is most important, as the system of underground hallways begin from there.

Is it perhaps more important for the secret that treasuries of the Serbian Orthodox Church are located underneath the square near the Church of Saint Marko, or is it maybe more important, surprisingly enough, that the building of the National Bank is located near Tašmajdan, which also means that the treasuries of this important national institution are there?

KALEMEGDAN – SECRET CHAMBERS The remains of hidden underground roads, which connected parts of the fortification constructed at Kalemegdan and around it, are still there as witnesses of that distant and unknown Belgrade, which is still alive.

Once upon a time, long ago, Belgrade was born at Kalemegdan. Everything that determined the life of its citizens started and ended there.

The relation of Belgraders toward death and dying, regardless of their origin and cultural milieu, is quite unusual. The evidence of that could be the interior of a Kalemegdan restaurant, which is called Barutana (gunpowder storage), which is a name it got after its previous purpose.

Until recently this was a place of big parties, fashion shows, and listening to modern music, while the bar chairs were placed around ancient sarcophagi.

Within the hallway that connects two large underground halls, previously the powder storage area, stone tombs were found in the remains of Roman cemeteries in Belgrade. Those sarcophagi

made of Tašmajdan stone are empty today. In the first chamber of the gunpowder storage are lapidarian stones preserving the tomb plaques, many of which are well-preserved, with easily legible names of the dead and last messages engraved by their contemporaries. Everything is reminiscent of history moving in a circle. A text by Roma Zmorski in the old cemetery at Tašmajdan speaks of the weird pagan ritual that our ancestors performed to spite death. It seems that this repeats today at Barutana. Maybe it’s more urban in the way it’s done and in a different form, but essentially – it’s very similar.

The large gunpowder storage area in the cave in the downtown area of Belgrade fortress is part of the works that Austrians did in Belgrade during their rule until 1717. Bearing in mind what was preserved here, it is almost incredible that the gunpowder storage is so well-preserved and that today it represents the biggest known underground area of Kalemegdan.

ZEMUN – THE DOORS OF SOME OTHER WORLD The underground of Zemun, across the other side of the river, is no less interesting than the underground of Belgrade. On the contrary, sometimes it seems even more interesting. In the part that is today only 100 metres or so from the Zemun theatre are the gates to the mostly forgotten underground of Zemun.

The oldest house in Zemun, on Vasilija Vasilijevića Street, is even today known as Beli Medved (White Bear), which was the name of the inn that was located in this house. True, the inn was opened later, after the house was built. This is the only house that remained from Turkish times. In the basement of this

house there is a tunnel whose end, like in many similar underground constructions around here, is blocked with a different type of material than the material used to build the house. So there is no dilemma that its end is newer than the continuation. On the side of the tunnel there is a big cellar with wine barrels. During the “licentious“ era of its history, the house shared a wall with a bordello, which was later demolished. Only the passage between the two buildings remained.

The passage is low so that everything would be more discrete so the ladies could go to the other side as secretly as possible.

There is an inn in the house as well; for a long time it was the place where coachmen gathered.

They would come to have a drink there. However, anecdotes say that a drink meant a bowl of wine or two. As elder citizens of Zemun told us, during the night there would be two-three fights down there, so the waiters would have to nail table legs several times per night because they were used as tools for fighting. At a critical moment, the owner of the inn would close the inn and announce closure for the next hour. So when the tables would be in their place, the bowls would be filled again and everything seemed like nothing had had happened before. And underneath this inn, there is a

tunnel that even today draws attention.

Its lower part, from which the hole for ventilation is clearly seen, obviously was the wine cellar. There is a part on the ceiling which is not covered with clay and the vintners know well that the earth above the cellar is the best filter that will clear wine vapours. That part is one metre wide, and it was sufficient to do its task.

Another part of the underground under the building is very interesting. Some historians claim that Austrian Emperor Josef II stayed there when he conquered Belgrade in the 18th century.

This part is blocked. Others say that the military leader Eugene of Savoy was here during preparations for the siege of Belgrade in 1717. At that time, the Turks burnt the city, so this was the only house where the commander could stay.

Eugene was in an offensive against Belgrade, and the Turks could not reach that place with their cannons so it was natural that a Christian commander should stay there. Be that as it may, some things today cannot be proven in details.

The inns of Zemun built in the city’s central parts used to have deep cellars, which were often called ice cellars. Apart from the White Bear, the cafeteria Kod Plavetne Štuke (At Bluish Pike’s) was also well-known as well as a few

others where the wine was cooled even in the summer heat, so they were often visited in times when refrigerators and freezers were unknown.

Explanations why the underground tunnels of Zemun were suddenly disconnected with walls are various. Some claim that all disconnected areas were a sign that it was impossible and impermissible to go further because of conspiracies reasons. However, others claim that those dungeons were mined by the Germans during their withdrawal. There is a legend of the wall beneath the “White Bear” which says that after the war ended, the owner of the cellar, who was rich enough to be afraid of constant financial controls by the new “national” authorities, decided to keep at least part of his wealth, and he hid several barrels of wine and blocked them.

What is really hidden behind most of Zemun’s and Belgrade’s dungeons still remains unknown.

Based on a study by Dr Vidoje Golubović, Adjusted and edited by DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ photographs: NEMANJA PANČIĆ

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SVET ISPOD POVRŠINE Nepoznati tuneli, prolazi, hodnici koji se poput krvotoka prostiru pod površinom Beograda – refleksije su iz dubina zemlje, trag ka nekom davnom vremenu. Neki od njih su ostaci dalekih rimskih puteva, oni koji kreću sa Avale, rudnika žive, srebra i cinobarita tu su još iz praistorijskih vremena. Tašmajdan, Zemun, Karađorđeva ulica, Kalemegdan, Avala – deo su bogate baštine grada, ali su isto tako – pod površinom, posebno predanje o podzemnom životu grada, uvek obavijeno mistikom, legendama i pitanjima za odgonetanje.

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zimajući u obzir vinčansku kulturu, naš grad po starosti može da se meri sa Atinom i Rimom, ali je izvesno da ćete, slušajući istoričare, lako zaključiti kako su, recimo, Berlin ili Pariz gradovi sa znatno kraćom istorijom nego što je ova naša – beogradska. Upoznavanje neobičnog sveta ispod površine grada još jedan je način da se o Beogradu sazna više. Njegove podzemne galerije i odaje, od kojih se neke mogu

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turistički posetiti uz veštog vodiča, svedoče o potrebi skoro svih koji su tokom duge istorije u gradu živeli ili njime vladali da tu, pod zemljom, nešto sakriju, sačuvaju ili otkriju.

Za neke prostore ispod grada danas ne postoji zvanično objašnjenje: ni za koju svrhu su nastali, ni ko ih je prokopao, dok za neke postoje detaljne i tačne mape koje omogućavaju hod ispod površine grada.

TAŠMAJDAN – HODNICIMA ISTORIJE Ako postoji zagonetno mesto u Beogradu, staro koliko i sam grad, koje pamti sva njegova dobra i loša vremena – onda je to Tašmajdan. Tek nekoliko metara ispod zemlje protiču ostaci dvomilenijumski starog vodovoda, a u skeletu Tašmajdana su i crkvene riznice i kripte, vojna komanda nekada moćnog vermahtovskog carstva, zatim stratišta na kojima su skončale njegove žrtve.

Na Tašmajdanu se nalazio verovatno najstariji rudnik grada, iz čijeg kamena su sačinjeni sarkofazi, kasnije se ispostavilo, zaista dugovečna konačišta još za rimske stanovnike varoši, koji su je nastanjivali pre dve hiljade godina.

Od tašmajdanskog kamena pravljene su i kuće, palate, hramovi stare rimske kulture i delovi vodovoda, kojim je voda sprovedena u rimsko utvrđenje na današnjem Kalemegdanu.

Zabeleženo je da se tu nalazio rudnik iz koga je šalitra vađena za proizvodnju baruta, a tokom Prvog svetskog rata su se na istom mestu skrivali mnogi Beograđani, tražeći u podzemlju spas od austrougarskih topova. Malo je poznato da se vađenjem šalitre iz tašmajdanskih pećina bavio i poznati beogradski zadužbinar Ilija Milosavljević Kolarac Baš sa Tašmajdana Karađorđe je svoje ustanike poveo u oslobađanje Beograda od Turaka 1806. godine, i to tako što je svoj štab smestio u tašmajdanske pećine. Tuda je prolazio i Smederevski drum, jedna od najvažnijih saobraćajnica još od rimskog doba. Baš tu pročitan je javno hatišerif, koji je sa sobom doneo nadu, a zatim i dugo očekivanu istinu da će se Srbija konačno osloboditi turske stege i najzad postati samostalna.

Tašmajdan je ime poneo iz turskih vremena, prema rečima taš, što znači kamen, i majdan – rudnik.

I geolozi, koji su dugo istraživali kako gornji tako i donji deo Tašmajdana, doneli su zaključke koji u najmanju ruku nisu nezanimljivi.

Tašmajdan je nekada davno bio poslednji deo do koga su dopirali talasi nekadašnjeg Panonskog mora. Sudeći po onome do čega su došla geološka istraživanja, to je bilo poslednje uzvišenje u nizu od Karpata do Beograda, koje ima isti ili gotovo isti sastav kao i taj planinski masiv.

Ispod površine Tašmajdanskog parka nalazi se nekoliko velikih prostorija, od kojih je prva najstarija i posetioca dočekuje odmah posle ulaza i dvostrukih stepenica. Prostor danas ima betoniran pod, a na njenom završetku nalaze se metalna vrata koja spletom hodnika vode ka daljim lavirintima.

Jedan deo nekadašnjeg kamenoloma bio je uređen još u doba davno pre Drugog svetskog rata. U vreme kneza Miloša tu je nastavljeno s kopanjem, da bi kasnije, u svojim odbrambenim projektima, tom mestu posebnu pažnju poklonila nekadašnja Kraljevina Jugoslavija, a na kraju su ga Nemci vešto preuzeli, odmah posle okupacije grada. Tu su boravili vojnici Vermahta, koji su preko firme TOT radili na izgradnji, odnosno adaptiranju tašmajdanskog prostora za potrebe nemačke komande u Beogradu, te za „sklanjanje“ u to doba

značajnih zatvorenih Srba.

Projekat adaptacije uradio je Jakov Bezlaj, koji je sa grupom Čeha, Slovaka i Slovenaca doveden u Beograd, a dok je sve to građeno nije bilo Srba svedoka.

Između svih podzemnih prostorija Tašmajdana postojale su međusobne veze, koje su uglavnom zazidane. Danas su manje važni razlozi, ali je jasno da još nije poznato čega zaista ima dole.

Iza jednog tašmajdanskog zida još teku vode nekih starih vodovoda ili vodotokova, koji su dugo postojali pod Beogradom. Govori se da je zloglasni nemački general Fon Ler, tokom operacije za oslobođenje Beograda upravo podzemnim prolazima pobegao ka Sloveniji, gde je uhapšen. Danas su i dalje otvorena mnoga pitanja. Da li će blizina kripti kod crkve svetog Marka dati logičan odgovor na pitanje kuda ide jedan od tunela iz druge

pećine, a čiji pravac izgleda potpuno nelogično započet i neusaglašen sa podzemnom građevinom, ili je najvažnije ono što se nalazi u četvrtoj pećini, iz koje vode putevi na mesta gde je već pronađen sistem podzemnih hodnika?

Da li je za tajnu možda važnije to što su ispod platoa kod crkve svetog Marka smeštene riznice Srpske pravoslavne crkve, ili je možda bitnije što se, eto čuda, baš u blizini Tašmajdana nalazi i zgrada Narodne banke, a s njom i svi podzemni trezori te tako važne nacionalne institucije?

KALEMEGDAN – TAJNE ODAJE Isto tako ostaci skrivenih podzemnih puteva, koji su spajali delove utvrđenja večito pravljenih na Kalemegdanu i oko njega, i danas postoje svedočeći o tome da je i taj davni i nepoznati Beograd još živ.

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Jednom davno Beograd se rodio na Kalemegdanu.

Tu je uvek započinjalo i okončavalo se ono što je uobličavalo bitisanje njegovih stanovnika.

Odnos Beograđana prema smrti i umiranju, bez obzira na poreklo ili kulturni milje, prilično je neobičan. Dokaz za to bi mogao biti i unutrašnji izgled kalemegdanskog restorana, koji nosi naziv po svojoj nekadašnjoj nameni – Barutana.

Tu su doskora organizovane velike žurke, modne revije, slušala se muzika koja je moderna u svetu, a barske stolice nalazile su se pravilno raspoređene oko prastarih sarkofaga.

Unutar hodnika koji spaja dve velike podzemne hale, nekadašnje pećine u kojima se čuvao barut, poređane su kamene grobne kutije pronađene na ostacima rimskih grobalja u Beogradu. Danas su ti sakrofazi, napravljeni od tašmajdanskog kamena, prazni. U prvoj prostoriji barutane nalazi se lapidarijum, mesto gde se čuvaju nadgrobne ploče, mnoge od njih izuzetno očuvane, na kojima su i sada jasno čitljiva imena pokojnika i poslednje poruke koje su na njima isklesali njihovi savremenici. Sve podseća na okretanje istorije ukrug. Tekst Rome Zmorskog o starom groblju na Tašmajdanu govori o čudnom paganskom ritualu koji su naši prethodnici obavljali prkoseći smrti. To se, čini se, danas ponavlja u Barutani. Možda na neki način urbanije i u drukčijem obliku, ali u suštini – veoma slično.

Veliki barutni magacin Pećine, u Donjem gradu Beogradske tvrđave, deo je radova koje su u Beogradu izveli Austrijanci, vladajući ovom varoši od 1717. godine. Imajući u vidu šta je na ovom mestu čuvano, skoro je neverovatno da je Barutana tako očuvana da danas predstavlja najveći poznati kalemegdanski podzemni prostor.

ZEMUN – DVERI NEKOG DRUGOG SVETA Podzemlje Zemuna nije ništa manje zanimljivo nego ono beogradsko, koje je nastajalo sa druge strane reke. Naprotiv, ponekad se činilo kudikamo zanimljivo. Na delu koji se danas nalazi tek stotinak metara od zemunskog pozorišta, nalaze se dveri kroz koje se ulazi u uglavnom zaboravljeno zemunsko podzemlje.

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Najstarija kuća u Zemunu, u ulici Vasilija Vasilijevića, i danas je poznata po nazivu Beli medved, jer se u njoj dugo nalazila istoimena kafana, doduše znatno kasnije nego što je sama kuća izgrađena. To je jedina kuća u gradu koja je sačuvana još iz turskog vremena. U njenom podrumu postoji tunel čiji je završetak, baš kao i u mnogim sličnim podzemnim građevinama u ovom kraju – zazidan takođe drukčijim materijalom nego što je onaj od kojeg je kuća napravljena, pa dileme o tome da je njegov kraj mlađi nego nastavak – nema. Sa bočne strane tog tunela postoji veliki podrum, u kome su se čuvala vinska burad, a kuća je, u „raskalašnom“ dobu svoje istorije delila zid sa nekadašnjim kuplerajem, koji je srušen. Ostao je samo prolaz između dve zgrade. Prolaz je oniži, da bi sve ostalo što diskretnije, i da bi se dame, što tajnije provukle u onaj drugi deo.

U kući se nalazila kafana koja je dugo bila mesto za okupljanje kočijaša koji su tu dolazili da popiju koju čašicu. Međutim, prema anegdotama, to je značilo da se počaste bokalom ili dva vina. Kako su nas podsetili stariji Zemunci, tamo su se tokom noći dešavale i po dve ili tri tuče, pa su konobari morali da nekoliko puta iste večeri zakivaju noge stolova, koje su prethodno bile upotrebljene kao batine.

Krčmar bi u kritičnom trenutku zatvorio kafanu i objavio fajront za naredni sat. Kada bi stolovi bili ponovo na svom mestu, već takvi kakvi su mogli da budu, bokali su nanovo točeni i sve je izgledalo kao da ničega pre toga i nije bilo.

I baš ispod takve kafane postoji tunel koji i danas privlači pažnju.

Njegov donji deo, iz koga se jasno vidi otvor za ventilaciju, očigledno je bio vinski podrum. Na gornjem ozidanom svodu postoji deo koji ne pokriva opeka, ali vinarima je dobro poznato da je zemlja iznad podruma najbolji filter koji će pročistiti vinska isparenja. Taj deo je širok metar, i on je bio dovoljan da obavi svoj zadatak.

Drugi deo podzemlja ispod te zgrade veoma je zanimljiv. Neki istoričari tvrde da je upravo tu boravio Josif II, austrijski car u vreme kada je u 18. veku opsedao Beograd. Upravo taj deo je onaj sa

zazidanim krajem. Drugi kažu kako je tu boravio vojskovođa Eugen Savojski, tokom priprema za opsadu Beograda 1717. godine. U to vreme Turci su spalili grad, pa je to bila jedina očuvana kuća gde je mogao da se smesti vojskovođa. Uostalom, Eugen je bio u ofanzivi ka Beogradu, do tog mesta Turci nisu mogli da dopru topovima, pa je bilo prirodno da hrišćanski vojskovođa tu odsedne. Tek, neke stvari danas nije moguće dokazati do detalja.

Zemunske birtije, građene u centralnim delovima grada, nekada su imale duboke podrume, koje su često zvali ledenicama. Pored Belog medveda, bila je poznata i kafana Kod plavetne štuke, i još nekoliko njih gde se vino hladilo i tokom letnjih žega, pa su zato, u vreme kada frižideri i zamrzivači nisu bili poznati, bile omiljena svratišta.

Ledenice su bili duboko ukopani podrumi, gde je donošen led sa Dunava, na koji su stavljana burad s vinom. Da bi duže držao hladnoću, led bi bio prekrivan slamom, a u te, posebnim vratima zatvarane prostorije, ulazilo se samo jednom dnevno da se hladno vino natoči u bokale.

Objašnjenja zbog čega su podzemni zemunski tuneli naprasno prekidani zidovima, veoma su raznolika. Postoje ona u kojima se tvrdi da su svi zazidani prostori bili znak da se dalje ili ne sme ili ne može, zbog konspirativnih razloga. Međutim, prema drugom tumačenju, te lagume su minirali Nemci tokom povlačenja. Za zid ispod Belog medveda priča se da je vlasnik tog podruma posle okončanja rata bio vinski trgovac, dovoljno bogat da se uplaši od večitih finansijskih kontrola novih, „narodnih“ vlasti. Da bi sačuvao makar deo svoga blaga, navodno je tu zazidao nekoliko ogromnih bačvi vina. Šta je zaista iza zidova većine zemunskih i beogradskih laguma, i dalje se ne zna.

Na osnovu studije dr Vidoja Golubovića, tekst priredila DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ fotografije: NEMANJA PANČIĆ

INTERVIEW | BELGRADE’S GUEST: NIKITA MIKHALKOV, RUSSIAN ACTOR AND DIRECTOR

THE HISTORY OF A MAN I have never tried to keep up with somebody else or to stray from my own path in life. Simply, I have always followed my own way, and anyone can keep up with me if he so wishes. A man whose actions are not his own, if they do not come from his own heart and soul, is a slave – no matter how brave he may be.

T

he expert jury at the 36th FEST, FIPRESCI Serbia, awarded the Russian film 12 by Nikita Mikhalkov the award “best film of the festival”. In their explanation, the jury wrote: “The film 12 by Nikita Mikhalkov vivisects modern Russian society through the stories of 12 jurors who were in session during the night, revealing all its prejudices, moral corruption and negative heritage from the past, excellently enhancing the idea from the 1950s American film classic. Masterfully acted and amazingly realised in all its segments, 12 declares in its final result the victory of the humane and good over evil, the triumph of truth and freedom over injustice and lies and lack of freedom, the exact things we all desperately need today.”

We should add that this film is not like The Barber of Siberia or Burnt by the Sun, which are more narrative movies. A story is present here, too; there are actually 12 of them that join a main storyline, but it is more intimate, and demands from viewers more attention and dedication while ruminating. The reduced, somewhat theatrical form of the film is reminiscent of Dogvil by Lars von Trier. Rarely seen magnificent acting, a competition in acting, really, that does not intrude, and acting bravura in performances that seemlessly follow one another have all contributed to the creation of this masterpiece.

Nikita Mikhalkov visited Belgrade for a short time. He left the set of the movie Burnt by the Sun 2 for a few hours to receive the Karic Brothers Award. On that occasion, as well as during previous short visits to Serbia, we discussed many themes.

Among others:

The film 12 - I am happy to break my silence that has lasted seven years. There was a lot inside me to say publicly. The 12 jurors represent 12 levels of Russian society that decide the destiny of a Chechen boy.

He is accused of killing his stepfather, a Russian military officer. The crime reminds the viewer of everything that is occurring in Russia today. I did not expect that film to be accepted so personally in Europe, which was quite unexpected. Above all, it is a Russian film about Russia. For me, it is a reason worth thinking about because, to my mind, the time has come to say things out loud that we could only whisper about previously. Unless we speak about it openly, we cannot change anything. Almost all the members of the jury, except one, were ready to give a verdict in about ten minutes and then to go away; because they were convinced of being puppets in the administration of justice. However, that is the problem. Every life matters. Before God, both a servant and a minister are equals, which we forget in our everyday lives. Dostoyevsky said that it is very easy to love the whole world, but that it is very difficult to love a single man. When we ask somebody how he is, we nearly don’t hear the answer. It is colloquial. In Belgrade, for example, I have felt an intense part of seriousness and dedication. That is not a compliment. It is a very difficult thing. It is much easier to take a glass of whisky with ice and say: “How are you, I’m fine…” It is much easier.

There is no responsibility, everything is all right, and we have chitchat like grown-up people. Here in Belgrade, that is not possible. When you ask

someone here how he is, that person often takes your hand, or a button on your coat, and starts to tell you how he feels. Here you can still hope that if someone asks you how you are, he really wants to hear what is going on with you. Around the world, that is very rare.

That can lead to a loss of your own identity, because when we need someone to listen to us, nobody will be around. Thus, the circle closes. In Russia, law is still mercy. Suffering, mercy –there is no Russia without them. It is very easy to wash our hands and face, to pretend we are not interested.

It is necessary for Russians to cleanse themselves internally; without that, we cannot become a civilised society.

The thirteenth character of the film.

-The Chechen tragedy in the film is not just a speculative impulse to make it actual, but also a kind of a hieroglyph, a necessary counterpoint to offer viewers a strong feeling about the person who is on trial. The film is a re-make, but only “12 percent” so to speak, insofar as it includes 12 people, out of the large swath of Russian society, who are solving a completely strange case. A sparrow that flies into the room where the jury is deliberating becomes the thirteenth character in the film. He was sent by God to prevent something that cannot be corrected. The bird has something childish and divine about it, rather peculiar actually, but it does not offer any answers. That is why, in the end, I say to it: “You can fly or stay if you want, but make your own decision. No one will do that instead of you”.

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You can call it a cry for democracy, but a democracy that exists inside, not the kind that is determined and preached outside. It might be a primitive understanding of democracy, but it certainly makes less sense to observe others and imitate everything they do. Each country has its taste, aroma, memories, tests, genetics and history. We cannot turn a meal from McDonald’s into a continental breakfast at the Sheraton Hotel – it is wrong. We have to lean on our own roots. That is the essence. Only something national can become international.

If we try to copy the West, we won’t be interesting to anyone. To the same extent, I am not interested in watching an American production of Ana Karenina, although it may be on a very high level technically.

The relation between Serbia and Russia - An interesting conclusion crossed my mind today, and it leaves me defenseless. There are small nations that join larger ones because of the benefits they receive from such a move -they can get donations, money, help etc. Large nations can protect and accept them. That is why these small nations pretend to love those great nations and vice versa. It looks like political theatre and good business. The relation between Serbia and Russia is quite different. That relationship is genetic, irrational. Yet, there have been so many reasons to get angry at Russia, and you always succeeded in explaining to yourself

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why that is so – to understand, forgive and love Russia. It leaves me defenseless. It also enables me to view that relationship completely differently - through the prism of history, tradition, culture and Orthodoxy. Certainly, I do not want to lecture, especially on history.

The essence of acting -An actor is nothing more than a certain number of standard clichés. A bad actor has two clichés, a good one 400 cliches, while an excellent one has 4,000 clichés at his disposal. In any case, it is a cliché. The most important is that even if you use a cliché, use it as if you were using it for the first time in your life. There is pure energy that cannot be replaced with anything and cannot be simulated, energy that you must simply have. The temperature of that energy is the unit of measurement for the quality of your clichés. It is important to realise that in acting; the concentration of energy excites viewers and they are ready to follow an actor who uses his energy properly. A pause is not just a blank part in a text, but a multiplication of energy. Just like in improvisation. It is not talking nonsense – saying words because there is no text or because you forgot your lines, but it is an outstanding mechanism that allows an actor to rise, fly and see everything clearly - from above.

Upbringing - The way we mutually communicated and had relations in the family was, in fact, a science of

life. Our surnames should not be the wings that carry us to glory, but crosses we have in our souls.

It is very important, because my brother (Andrei Konchalovsky) and I could have become villains living under these conditions, and our children even more so, because there are more temptations today. However, we learned important lessons about life in our family.

At home, they brought us up not to compare our lives with the lives of people who live better than us, but to compare them with the lives of people who live worse, because they are more numerous. I brought up my children in the same way. The great Russian writer Anton Pavlovich Chekhov wrote in his diary with good reason: “Behind each happy person there is someone to hammer his happiness”. I occasionally read my interviews from some 30 years ago, and I can conclude that my attitudes have not changed.

By the way, that is another example of the significant influence the family has in shaping an individual’s personality. I have never tried to keep up with somebody else or to stray from my own path oinf life. Simply, I have always followed my own way, and anyone can keep up with me if he so wishes. A man whose actions are not his own, if they do not come from his own heart and soul, is a slave –no matter how brave he may be.

DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ photographs: DANILO PETERNEK

I N TERVJU | GOST BEOGR ADA: NIK I TA M I H A L KOV, R U S K I G LUMAC I R E D I T E L J

ISTORIJA ČOVEKA Nisam preskakao sa jedne na drugu stranu puta pokušavajući da uhvatim tuđe korake i da ih sledim. Ja jednostavno koračam svojim putem, a ko želi, može da krene u korak samnom. Čovek čiji postupci nisu u njemu samom, u njegovom srcu i njegovoj duši, nego dolaze odnekud spolja rob je – ma koliko bio hrabar.

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iri kritike FIPRESCI Srbija 36. Festa nagradu za najbolji film festivala dodelio je ruskom filmu 12 Nikite Mihalkova. U obrazloženju je zapisano: „Film 12 Nikite Mihalkova kroz priče 12 porotnika, koji zasedaju u jednoj noći, na krajnje uzbudljiv, beskompromisan i nemilosrdan način, bogato nadograđujući ideju iz američkog filmskog klasika pedesetih, od koje je krenuo, vivisecira savremeno rusko društvo, razotkrivajući sve njegove predrasude, moralna iskrivljenja i negativno nasleđe prošlosti. Minuciozno odglumljen i fascinantno realizovan u svim segmentima 12, kao krajnji rezultat daje pobedu humanističkog i dobra nad nepravdom i zlom, trijumf istine i slobode nad lažima i neslobodom, upravo ono što nam je danas, čini se, svima najpotrebnije.“

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Treba dodati da ovo nije Mihalkov koga publika prepoznaje po Sibirskom berberinu ili Varljivom suncu, filmovima koji su znatno plastičniji u pripovedanju priče. Priča i ovde postoji, čak ih ima 12, koje se slivaju u onu jednu – određujuću, ali je postavka kamernija, traži više pažnje, traži da joj se izložite – i, nagrađuje. Sveden, pomalo teatarski oblik filma, negde podseća na Dogvil Larsa fon Trira. Maestralna gluma, a ovakve epitete retko koristimo, čak nadglumljivanje, koje ne smeta, bravura za bravurom, i remek-delo je tu.

Nikita Mihalkov je u Beograd doleteo na kratko.

Izdvojio je nekoliko sati da sa snimanja filma Varljivo sunce 2 doputuje i primi nagradu Braća Karić. Tom prilikom, a i u nekoliko ranijih kratkih poseta Srbiji, i uzvratnih Rusiji, razgovarali smo o mnogo čemu. Između ostalog...

O filmu 12...

- Srećan sam što sam baš sa ovim filmom izašao iz sedmogodišnjeg ćutanja. Skupilo se u meni mnogo toga što sam poželeo da izgovorim. Dvanaest prisutnih, koji predstavljaju 12 novoga ruskog društva, rešavaju sudbinu čečenskog dečaka. Njega okrivljuju da je ubio svog poočima, oficira ruske armije, a tim povodom mi i razmišljamo o svemu što se danas dešava u Rusiji. Nisam mislio da će taj film tako neočekivano lično da prime ovde, u Evropi. Pre svega je to film za Rusiju i o Rusiji. Za mene on je povod za razmišljanje, čini mi se da je došlo vreme da se glasno govori to o čemu šapućemo. Jer ukoliko ne govorimo o tome, ništa nećemo izmeniti. Skoro svi porotnici, osim jednog, spremni su da potroše desetak minuta,

Scenes from Nikita Mihalkov’s latest film “12” donesu odluku i raziđu se, jer su uvereni da su samo puki pijuni u pravosuđu. U tome i jeste problem: Nema nevažnog života. Pred bogom su i sluga i ministar jednaki, a mi to u svakodnevnim životima zaboravljamo. Dostojevski je rekao da je veoma lako voleti ceo svet, a veoma teško voleti jednog čoveka. Kada pitamo nekoga kako je, skoro da i ne čujemo odgovor. On je kolokvijalan.

U Beogradu sam, recimo, osetio izuzetnu dozu ozbiljnosti, posvećenosti: To nije kompliment. To je veoma teška stvar... Mnogo je lakše uzeti čašu viskija sa ledom i reći: How are you, I’ am fine...

To je neuporedivo jednostavnije. Nema nikakve odgovornosti, sve je u redu, malo smo proćaskali kao odrasli ljudi... Ovde, u Beogradu, to nije moguće. Kada ovde pitaš nekoga kako je, taj te vrlo često uzme za ruku, ili dugme, i počne da ti priča o tome kako je... Ovde se još možete nadati da vas onaj ko pita kako ste zaista želi da čuje šta se s vama dešava. U svetu je to tako retko.

A tako se gubi sopstveni identitet, jer kada nama bude potrebno da nas neko sasluša, takođe nećemo imati odgovor. A tako se i zatvara krug problema te istorije slučaja. U Rusiji je zakon i dalje i milosrđe. Stradanje, milosrđe – bez toga ne postoji Rusija. Veoma je lako umiti se, oprati ruke i praviti se da nas sve to ne zanima. Rusima je neophodno da se operu iznutra, bez tog je nemoguće da postanemo civilizovano društvo.

O trinaestom junaku filma...

- Čečenska tragedija u filmu nije spekulativni impuls da bi film bio aktuelan, već hijeroglif, neophodni kontrapunkt koji treba da ponudi gledaocu jako osećanje o tome kome se sudi. Film je rimejk samo 12 odsto, sadržanih u želji da pred sobom vidimo 12 ljudi, usred ruskog društva, koji rešavaju problem savršeno tuđeg im prisustva.

Vrabac koji uleće na trenutak u prostoriju u kojoj zaseda porota trinaesti je junak filma. Njega je poslao bog da ne dopusti ono što se ne može popraviti. Ali on je dečijeg i božanskog lika i u njemu naizgled nema ničega osim zainteresovanosti, nema odgovora. Zbog toga se baš njemu obraćam na kraju: „Ako hoćeš, leti, ako hoćeš, ostani, ali odluči sam.

Umesto tebe to niko neće uraditi.“ Ako hoćete, to jeste poziv na demokratiju, ali

na demokratiju koja postoji iznutra, a ne na onu koja se deklariše i propoveda spolja. Možda je to primitivno shvatanje demokratije, ali je izvesno besmislenije gledati druge i kopirati sve što oni rade. Svaka zemlja ima svoj ukus, miris, uspomene, oglede, genetiku, istoriju... Sve to podvesti pod jedinstveni intelektualni Mekdonalds i pretvoriti naš život u kontinentalni doručak u hotelu Šeraton - to nikako nije bolji put. Moramo se u svemu tome osloniti na sopstvene korene.

To je suština. Samo to što je duboko nacionalno može postati internacionalno. Ako pokušavamo da kopiramo Zapad, nikome nećemo biti zanimljivi. Podjednako je tako meni zanimljivo da gledam kako Amerikanci snimaju Anu Karenjinu, premda je snimaju na visokom tehničkom nivou. Postoje stvari koje mogu biti rečene samo iznutra.

O Srbiji i Rusiji...

- Nameće mi se zanimljiv zaključak, baš danas sam o tome razmišljao, i on me razoružava.

Postoje mali narodi koji hrle ka velikim narodima zato što od toga imaju koristi – mogu da dobiju nekakve donacije, novac, pomoć i tome slično.

Veliki narodi mogu i da ih uzmu pod svoje okrilje, u svoju koaliciju. Zbog svega toga ti mali narodi se pretvaraju da vole te velike narode, a veliki narodi se pretvaraju da vole svoje male narode.

Sve to poprima karakter političkog pozorišta i dobrog biznisa. To što se dešava između Srbije i Rusije nešto je sasvim drugačije. Taj odnos je na nivou genetike, apsolutno iracionalan. A opet, toliko je bilo prilike da se naljutite na Rusiju, i isto toliko puta ste uspeli da objasnite sebi zašto je to upravo tako – da razumete, oprostite i da nastavite da volite. To me razoružava. I to me primorava da na čitav taj odnos gledam potpuno drugačijim očima – kroz prizmu istorije, tradicije, kulture i pravoslavlja. Naravno, ne želim da držim predavanja, pogotovo ne o istoriji...

O suštini glume - Glumac nije ništa drugo nego određeni broj ustaljenih klišea. Loš glumac ima dva klišea, odličan četiristo, a onaj koji je izuzetan ima četiri hiljade klišea na raspolaganju. Svejedno, to je ipak kliše. Najvažnije je to da čak i ako koristi kliše, to čini kao da je prvi put u životu. Postoji

samo energija koju ničim ne možete zameniti, ne možete simulirati, koju jednostavno morate imati. Temperatura te energije je jedinica za kvalitet vaših klišea. To je najvažnije shvatiti u glumi, koncentracija energije uzbuđuje gledaoce i oni su spremni da idu za glumcem koji je pravilno upotrebio svoju energiju. Pauza nije rupa u tekstu, već umnožavanje energije. Isto kao improvizacija... Ona nije samo bla, bla, bla – ređanje reči zato što nema teksta ili je zaboravljen, već je to izuzetan mehanizam koji glumcu omogućava da se podigne, poleti i da sve pred sobom, odozgo – jasno vidi.

O vaspitavanju - Način na koji smo se mi međusobno odnosili i komunicirali u porodici bio je zapravo – nauka o životu. Naša prezimena ne treba da budu krila koja nose prema slavi, već krst koji nosimo na duši. To je vrlo važno, jer smo i ja i moj brat (Andrej Končalovski), živeći u takvim uslovima, mogli da izrastemo u bitange, nitkove, a moja deca, i njegova, još više, jer je danas izobilje veće. Međutim, u sopstvenoj porodici naučili smo važne lekcije o životu.

U kući su nas vaspitavali, pa sam i ja tako vaspitavao svoju decu da sopstveni život ne upoređujemo sa životom onih ljudi koji žive bolje, već sa životom onih ljudi koji žive gore – jer njih ima mnogo više. Nije bez razloga naš veliki pisac Anton Pavlovič Čehov napisao u svom dnevniku: „Iza svakog srećnog čoveka stoji neko ko kuje čekićem da bi iskovao njegovu sreću.“ Povremeno pročitam intervjue koje sam dao pre tridesetak godina, moja stanovišta se nisu promenila.

Uzgred budi rečeno, to je takođe jasan uticaj porodice na formiranje ličnosti. Nisam preskakao sa jedne na drugu stranu puta, pokušavajući da uhvatim tuđe korake i da ih sledim. Ja jednostavno koračam svojim putem, a ko želi, može da krene u korak sa mnom. Čovek čiji postupci nisu u njemu samom, u njegovom srcu i njegovoj duši, nego dolaze odnekud spolja rob je – ma koliko bio hrabar.

DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ fotografije: DANILO PETERNEK

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VESTIGES OF THE CITY'S SOUL

he literary guide through Belgrade represents an attempt to make a particular journey through space and time. It is a journey not only through six centuries of Belgrade’s turbulent history, but also through spaces that cannot be measured classically, by area and length, because many places no longer exist and can only be found in texts, paintings or photos at best.

Following the paths that chosen writers have left us through their lives and work, contributing to the image and soul of the city, we will tell a story about them, the spirit of Belgrade and the time in which they lived.

Writers are wizards to some extent, creating images with words, stimulating imagination or evoking memories.

From Despot Stefan Lazarević to Stevan Raičković, we will follow both visible and invisible trails from point to point in space, but also along the timeless paths that have connected the past and the present – trying to comprehend their enchanting world. For most of them, living in Belgrade was inspiring and enabled their lives and work to become a part of our collective memory and heritage.

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njiževni vodič kroz Beograd predstavlja pokušaj svojevrsnog putovanja kroz prostor i vreme. I to ne samo tokom šest vekova burne istorije Beograda već i prostorima koji se ne mogu izmeriti klasičnim merama, površinom ili dužinom, jer mnoga mesta više ne postoje i nalaze se još samo u tekstovima, na slikarskim platnima ili u najboljem slučaju na fotografijama.

Prateći tragove koje su izabrani književnici ostavljali svojim životom i delima na licu i duši grada, pokušaćemo da ispričamo priču koliko o njima toliko i o duhu Beograda i vremenima u kojima su živeli.

Pisci su pomalo i čarobnjaci koji rečima grade slike, podstičući maštu ili prizivajući sećanja. Od Despota Stefana Lazarevića do Stevana Raičkovića sledićemo vidljive i nevidljive tragove i kretati se od tačke do tačke u prostoru, ali i vanvremenskim stazama koje svoj početak imaju u prošlosti, a kraj u sadašnjosti – pokušavajući da dokučimo njihov čarobni svet. Za većinu njih život u Beogradu predstavljao je inspiraciju, a potom su njihovi životi i dela postali deo kolektivnog sećanja i našeg nasleđa.

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WANDERING KNIGHT FROM QUIXOTE’S BROTHERHOOD OF DREAMERS That one of the most significant European writers of the late 20th century, Danilo Kiš, was not awarded the Nobel Prize for literature in 1989 is but further proof that some awards never make it into the right hands.

The Nobel Prize would not have made Kiš’s writing any better, but the result of him not receiving the award is that a great body of work remains unknown to many readers around the world. Kiš passed away in October of that year, shortly before the decision was reached, and that alone may serve as an alibi to the jury for what was undoubtedly a mistake.

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eptember, 1948, in Belgrade, in Savska Street No. 13, in the area immediately around the railroad station…In a large pre-war fourstory building — whose only decorative flourish is a cupola laid on what looks like some sort of tower, giving the structure the appearance of a lampshade on a night lamp — in the first entrance on the second floor, the childhood dreams of a boy who would become a great writer took flight.

Immediately after World War Two, Belgrade was doing its best to survive the difficult days of reconstruction, attempting to regroup after the war’s destruction and to secure for its citizens the semblance of a normal life. After the initial euphoria surrounding the return of freedom came the problems associated with everyday life and the first political challenges.

In such a Belgrade milieu, a 13-year-old boy was sent to live with his aunt for a year, during which time he studied language and prepared a make-up exam for the final exam of lower gymnasium, which he had previously failed. That year would leave a profound impact on the young man; during this period he would establish links with the city that would last throughout his life. Recalling those days, many years later he said: “Belgrade was a dream, the ideal of a metropolis, the dream of escape from the province. Some time in ‘47/’48, I spent a year in Belgrade behind a drawn curtain, near the railroad station, completely incapable of letting go of my moonlight escape into books, and when I returned to Cetinje, that dream of Belgrade, which was more sound and light than real experience, existed like an unattainable ideal for which I yearned with all my being.” That boy, a quarter of a century later with a number of published books behind him, was Danilo Kiš.

After his birth in Subotica in 1935, life’s road took the young Danil and his family to Novi Sad, then to Hungary, and after the loss of his father at Auschwitz towards the end of the war, to Cetinje, the birthplace of his mother.

That is where, after a difficult illness, his mother would die, where he would finish secondary school and publish his first poem. That is where he would set off on travels towards his ideal.

TRAVELS THROUGH TIME – THE FIRST STOP His long journey began late in the summer of 1954. The trip by train from then far-off Montenegro to Belgrade lasted “an eternity”. As trains were for Danilo Kiš more than a mere means of transportation, but included legend and myth, the journey was not difficult for Kiš. He took joy in it, because it was the trip towards attaining his dreams.

Even in childhood, Kiša had established a special relationship with trains. That was, for the most part, due to the fact that his father Edward was a high-ranking inspector for the state railway company and the creator of the Yugoslavian domestic and international conductor, the timetable schedule for the bus, shipping, train and plane traffic, which Kiš viewed as a valuable part of his inheritance, and which he would make famous in his books.

Following the footsteps of Danilo Kiš in space and time is neither a linear nor chronological endeavour, but is simply movement forwards and backwards, in the past and the future, as travel by train seemed to him, something he often wrote about in his books.

We are again in the train in which the tall and slender youth is riding to Belgrade, resolutely determined to become a writer. Different regions, mountains and flatlands change before him, as if they were a moveable background canvass, “the right angles of tilled fields, the green swirls of meadows and the yellow squares of wheat...” The youth rewinds the film from his youth: the cold February of 1942, the ice-covered Danube, images of the Novi Sad pogrom, which his father, a Jew, miraculously survived; the family’s escape to his father’s native village in Hungary, where he read a pile of adventure and crime novels. As he would later admit, these had a defining influence on the formation of his character and fantasies, and on his choice between two possible life paths – as an adventurist or a writer; he, of course, chose the more difficult of the two, the path of the writer.

In Belgrade, at the beginning of September, he enrolled in the Faculty of Philosophy, in the Literature Department, with a major in History of World

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Literature with Literary Theory. “I wanted to penetrate the subject matter, to learn the trade of the writer, to read and to learn, and not once did I question my future destiny. During those years of study, I wrote an essay on Verlaine and Petofi, I worked on various editions, collaborated on journals and magazines, all with the same goal, more or less; to learn the trade of the writer...” he would later say.

As a young provincial poet, he was enchanted with the Bohemian world: “...Having come to Belgrade, I delved into that Bohemian life, at the cafe’s Tri Šešira (Three Hats) and Prešernovu Klet, and I drank with integrity, on an empty stomach, but always to the bottom and always at once, the whole shot, but I guarded my formula for survival, the only one possible, which I discovered not in some cafe, but in a book...” The formula of salvation of Bohemian poet Tina Ujevića revealed how the poet managed to drink and learn so much.

“I drank by night, and worked by day”, Ujević said, revealing his magic formula, to which Kiš also held fast. By day he went to the National Library and attended classes, and by night he attempted to discover the secrets of Bohemia. He slept in between.

However much the city gave to him, Kiš gave back to it many times more.

His energy and spirit washed across Belgrade’s cultural life like a great tide; he translated poetry and prose from the Hungarian, French and Russian, he wrote essays for newspapers and magazines, he adapted and translated for the theatre. When he discovered Hungarian poet Endre Adija at the end of the 1950s, finding in his work a poem for each of his spiritual states, he decided to no longer write poetry. He said that Adi saved him from becoming a bad poet. He then began to write exclusively in prose, with the occasional poem. And those poems, like the one he wrote to mark the death of Mira Tailović, one of the most significant women in the recent modern history of Serbian theatre, show that perhaps he was too strict on himself.

Exactly five years after fulfilling his first dream by coming to Belgrade, Kiš fulfilled yet another dream – a trip to Paris. There was yet another trip by train, this time over the Slovenian and Swiss alps and the first border crossing to “a pilgrimage to the intimate regions...of his own dreams”. As he wrote his travelogue, The Cloudelogue, in Paris, he was yearning for Belgrade...

“Already by evening I was floating above Belgrade, as if in a dream, mesmerised by what seemed like the miracle of its jewelry and necklaces of light, which from that bird’s-eye perspective seemed so enticing and unreachable.

With ashes on my head, full of remorse and in the silent climax of joy regarding my return, suddenly high up in the clean air, at an altitude of some 1000 metres above Earth, I left my bright cosmopolitan feathers and returned to the Belgrade airport as if it were my home port. With the feeling that I had once and for all found my home port, it was easy to go on the road.”

There is no greater emptiness than that which follows after one’s greatest dream has been fulfilled, but it is usually the greatest dreams that are actually never realised. Bohemia was not like what I had imagined it to be, neither in Belgrade nor in Paris.” .... “I am sitting and trying to remember my dreams about Paris, but no matter how hard I try I cannot recall that picture which I had created in great detail by reading Baudelaire, Malarme, Verlaine...” The following years, in a text entitled Eulogy to Bohemia, which appeared in Politika’s “Culture-Art” section, he would write that Bohemia was dead.

PILGRIMAGE TO THE REGION OF HIS OWN DREAMS It could have easily happened that the multi-talented Danilo Kiš became a painter, but after passing the entrance exam for art school in Cetinje, he had to wait a couple of years to prepare for school. The entrance committee included renown Montenegrin artists Milo Milunović and Petar Lumbarda. Kiš manifests his talent when he describes what for others would be a triviality -- such as a serving tray, an old lamp or old sewing machine -- with a painter’s eye for detail.

And if he had chosen the piano instead of the violin at music school, which he attended for two years, by his own admission he would never have become a writer because his emotions would have found an outlet.

He imbibed big city life with all his senses. He visited the Cinematheque regularly, because he was one of the curious and “in love” and the Cinematheque was, in his own words, a gathering place for such people. He enjoyed concerts at Kolarac and was a regular guest at a number of Belgrade cafes, first and foremost at the Russian Czar and later the Majestic. He spent time there with artists Mira Glavurtić and Leonid Šejk and with writers Mirko Kovač and Filip David.

He was the first at the Faculty to receive a diploma in the History of World Literature in October, 1958. During his studies he translated and published, and from his role as ”contributor” at the student literary magazine Vidika (Views) he soon became a member of the magazine office, where he spent a lot of his time.

KIŠ’S BELGRADE ADDRESSES From Savske 13, the first Belgrade address where, at least for a short while, he lived with his aunt, to his last address in Belgrade, in Miloš Pocerca Street, which symbolically flows into the Sava, it is as though Kiš’s wandering in Belgrade had come to an end.

He lived in the area known as Student Town, located in New Belgrade, nearly until the end of his University studies. But he also frequently finished his evenings at the Vidika magazine offices, especially when some cultural event or a wild night in town kept him out until after midnight. He rented his first student room before the end of his studies, with his high school friend from Cetinje and his future best man, Boško Mijanović, a mathematics student. They rented a modest room located in a passage between Balkan Street and Terazije, on the ground floor with a Turkish porch, from a Russian emigre couple from the 1920s. The room’s modesty was compensated for by the fact that it was located in the centre, which allowed him to stay in the kafanas until late into the night.

His following address was Skadarska Street 10, just a few steps from Skadarlje, and then a mansard in Dorćol, in Visokog Stevana Street, No. 31.

Friends recall the flat as a cold little room of only a few square metres in which books and magazines were strewn about, with some slippery stairs

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leading to the room. Following his marriage to Mirjana Miočinović, an assistant at the Institute for Foreign Languages, he moved into a flat in Palmotićeva 21, which was convenient because just around the corner was one of Belgrade’s best theatres, Atelje 212, where he worked as a freelance playwright for two years.

In a mark of the high esteem Kiš was held, the reputation he had built and his significance to cultural life, only eight years after receiving his University diploma the city government decided to give Kiš and his wife a two-room flat, located at Ranka Tajsića Street, No. 40 in the Voždovac neighbourhood, which the couple moved into in the autumn of 1966.

At the writer’s last Belgrade address, Miloš Pocerca 30, the name Kiš is still found on the intercom at the building entrance, nearly 20 years after his death. He and his life partner, Paskal Delpeš, who translated his books into the French language, were given a two-room flat on the first floor to use indefinitely.

Kiš lived in Belgrade from the beginning of his studies in 1954, with interruptions in 1962, 1964 and from 1973-1976, during which period he worked as a Serbo-Croatian proofreader and lived in Strasburg and Bordeaux. Kiš also spent a decade in Paris, which he regarded as the capital of culture, until his death in 1989. This placed him in contact with the sources of European culture, in a kind of “Joycean exile”, which offered him a special kind of mental health. He came to Belgrade often during this period, practically every three months, and so rather than nostalgia, he developed what might be called a “healthy distance” and an “ability to view his own world with maximum objectivity....”

The work table of Danilo Kiš is housed at SANU SPIRIT IS HIS HOMELAND There is no monument to Danilo Kiš in Belgrade, while the street named after him is small and not representative of his literary reputation and stature. It might be said that this is due to the fact that “just” under 20 years have passed since his death, and Kiš himself did not like sentimentality, which is what he would consider a monument to himself.

If next year, in 2009, on the 20th anniversary of the writer’s death, the City of Belgrade were to by some miracle raise a monument to Danilo Kiš somewhere near the railway station or the Savska slope, or name the new railway station after him, it would raise the city’s stature as well as repay a debt to Kiš, who dedicated some beautiful pages of his literature to the railways and to trains. In 1986, when receiving the high commendation ”Knight of Arts and Literature” award in Paris, which for him represented entry into the ”Order of Quixote’s Brotherhood of Dreamers”, he said that he viewed today’s writer and himself as a wandering knight, a man who, “even at the price of being ridiculous, serves the ideals of justice....”

On the night before his return to Belgrade from France during his first stay in Paris, while sitting in the Odeon cafe, Kiš bought from a local poet-derelict George Armand-Picard the 20th copy of his unpublished poems bearing a title that seemed ordained for Kiš – The Train Travels. In the last line the poet asks, “Sait-on quel sort l’ultime gare nous destine?“/“Do we know what destiny the last stop has in store for us?“ And imagine the coincidence, where Danilo Kiš, at his last stop under the marble slab in the Alley of Esteemed Citizens of Belgrade, has joined his teacher of painting from Cetinje Petar Lumbarda, and brothers in art, painter Stojan Aralica and sculptor Matija Vuković. Unto eternity are held the masters of painting, sculpture and literature.

JOVO ANĐIĆ We would like to thank Ms. Mirjana Miočinović for allowing us to use photographs from the disc “The Legacy of Danilo Kiš”. The disc was published with the help of the Fund for an Open Society and the Center for Cultural Decontamination. We would also like to thank SANU (Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences) for giving us permission to use material from the Danilo Kiš archive.

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VITEZ LUTALICA IZ DONKIHOTOVSKOG BRATSTVA SANJARA

To što Danilo Kiš, jedan od najznačajnijih evropskih pisaca s kraja 20. veka, nije dobio Nobelovu nagradu za književnost 1989. godine, još je jedna potvrda da neke nagrade nikad ne stignu u prave ruke. Nobelova nagrada ne bi učinila Kišovu literaturu boljom, ali je za mnoge čitaoce širom sveta ostalo nepoznato jedno veliko književno delo. Pre samog donošenja odluke Kiš je u oktobru umro i jedino to može da bude alibi žiriju za njegovo nesumnjivo ogrešenje.

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eptembar 1948. godine, Beograd, Savska ulica broj 13, u neposrednoj blizini Železničke stanice. U velikoj, pre rata podignutoj četvorospratnoj zgradi, kojoj su jedini ukras kupole postavljene na valjkastim uglovima kao na kakvim kulama, što podsećaju na abažure noćnih lampi, na drugom spratu u prvom ulazu rodili su se dečački snovi budućeg velikog pisca.

Neposredno nakon Drugog svetskog rata Beograd je preživljavao teške dane obnove, pokušavajući da se oporavi od ratnih razaranja i obezbedi koliko-toliko normalan život svojim građanima. Nakon prve egzaltacije izazvane dolaskom slobode, stigli su i problemi koje je doneo svakodnevni život i prva politička iskušenja.

U takav Beograd, kod tetke na skoro godinu dana, poslat je jedan trinaestogodišnji dečak koji nije položio završni ispit niže gimnazije da uči jezik i priprema se za popravni ispit. Taj boravak će na njega ostaviti dubok utisak, koji će učiniti da sa gradom stvori vezu za čitav život. Sećajući se tog vremena, mnogo godina kasnije, govorio je: „Beograd je bio san, metropola ideala, san o bekstvu iz provincije. Ja sam negde 47/48, proveo jednu godinu u Beogradu iza spuštenih zavesa, pokraj Železničke stanice, potpuno nesposoban da se oslobodim svog mesečarskog bekstva u knjige, a kad sam se vratio na Cetinje, taj san o Beogradu, koji je više bio zvuk i svetlost nego realan doživljaj, živeo je u meni kao nedostižan ideal kojem sam težio svim svojim bićem.” Taj dečak, četvrt veka kasnije pisac sa nekoliko objavljenih knjiga, to je Danilo Kiš.

Nakon rođenja u Subotici 1935. godine, mladog Danila i njegovu porodicu životni put vodi do Novog Sada, potom Mađarske, a nakon gubitka oca u Aušvicu i kraja rata, do Cetinja, majčinog rodnog mesta. Tu će, nakon teške bolesti, majka Milica umreti, a on završiti gimnaziju i objaviti svoju prvu pesmu.

Odatle će krenuti na putovanje ka svom idealu.

PUTOVANJE KROZ VREME – POČETNA STANICA Njegovo veliko putovanje započinje u kasno leto 1954. godine. To putovanje vozom iz tada daleke Crne Gore do Beograda traje „večnost’’. Ali kako su za Danila Kiša vozovi više od prevoznog sredstva, legenda, mit , kako piše, put mu ne pada teško. On u njemu uživa, jer to je put ka ostvarenju sna.

Još tokom detinjstva Kiš će uspostaviti poseban odnos sa vozovima. Biće to većim delom posledica činjenice da je njegov otac Eduard bio viši inspektor državnih železnica i autor Jugoslovenskog zemaljskog i internacionalnog konduktera, reda vožnje autobuskog, brodskog, železničkog i avionskog saobraćaja, koji će Kiš smatrati dragocenim delom svog nasleđa i u svojim knjigama ga učiniti poznatim.

Kretanje tragovima Danila Kiša u prostoru i vremenu teško da je pravolinijsko i hronološko, već je samo napred i nazad, u prošlost i budućnost, kako su mu se činila i putovanja vozom, česta u njegovim knjigama .

Ponovo smo u vozu kojim visoki, mršavi mladić putuje u Beograd, čvrsto rešen da postane pisac. Kao na pokretnom platnu, smenjuju se predeli, planine, „...pravougaonici oranica, zeleni rombovi livada i žuti kvadrati žita...’’ A mladić premotava film svoga detinjstva: Hladni februar 1942. godine, zaleđeni Dunav, slike novosadskog pokolja, koji je njegov otac, Jevrejin, pravim čudom preživeo; bekstvo porodice u očevo rodno selo u Mađarskoj, gde je pročitao gomilu avanturističkih i kriminalnih romana. Oni su, prema kasnijem priznanju, presudno uticali na formiranje njegovog karaktera i fantazije, i na odluku da od dva svoja puta, da postane avanturista ili pisac, izabere teži, put pisca.

U Beogradu se početkom septembra upisao na Filozofski fakultet, na grupu za

Istoriju svetske književnosti sa teorijom književnosti. „...Želeo sam da prozrem, da izučim zanat pisca, da čitam i da učim i ni u jednom trenutku nisam se pitao za dalju svoju sudbinu. Tada sam, u tim svojim godinama učenja, pisao eseje o Verlenu i Petefiju, pravio recenzije, sarađivao po listovima i časopisima, sve u manje-više jasnoj nameri: da izučim zanat spisateljski...” pričao je kasnije .

Kao mlad provincijalni pesnik bio je opčinjen svetom boemije :„...Došavši u Beograd ja sam se zagnjurio u taj svet tzv. boemije, u Tri šešira, u Prešernovu klet, i pio sam pošteno, na gladan stomak, ali do dna, uvek na eks, ali sam čuvao kao svoju tajnu formulu opstanka, jedinu mogućnu, koju sam pronašao ne u kafani nego takođe u nekoj knjizi...’’ „Spasonosna formula’’ starog boema pesnika Tina Ujevića otkrivala je kako je pesnik uspeo i da pije i da toliko nauči. „Ja sam noću pio, a danju radio’’, otkrio je Ujević čarobnu formulu, koje se i Kiš pridržavao. Danju je sedeo u Narodnoj biblioteci i išao na časove, a noću pokušavao da otkrije tajnu boemije. Spavao je u međuvremenu.

HODOČAŠĆE U PREDELE SOPSTVENOG SNA Moglo se desiti da, višestruko talentovan, Danilo Kiš postane slikar, ali je nakon položenog prijemnog ispita za Likovnu školu na Cetinju, morao da sačeka godinu-dve da stekne gimnazijsku spremu. U komisiji za prijem bili su Milo Milunović i Petar Lubarda. Taj svoj talenat Kiš ispoljava kada slikarskom minucioznošču opisuje za svakog drugog trivijalne stvari, poput poslužavnika, uljane lampe ili stare singerice. A da je umesto violine u muzičkoj školi, koju

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je pohađao dve godine, izabrao klavir, po sopstvenom priznanju, nikada ne bi počeo da piše, jer bi u tome njegove emocije pronašle odušak.

Upijao je život velikog grada svim čulima. Redovno je posećivao Kinoteku, jer je i sam bio jedan od radoznalih i zaljubljenih, a ona je, po njegovim rečima, upravo bila stecište takvih. Uživao je u koncertima na Kolarcu i, naravno, bio redovni gost nekoliko beogradskih kafana, pre svih Ruskog cara, a kasnije Mažestika. Tu se družio sa slikarima Mirom Glavurtićem i Leonidom Šejkom i sa piscima Mirkom Kovačem i Filipom Davidom.

Kao prvi diplomira na katedri za Istoriju svetske književnosti u oktobru 1958. godine. Tokom studiranja prevodi i objavljuje, a od saradnika u studentskom književnom časopisu Vidici ubrzo postaje član redakcije, gde provodi dosta vremena.

Koliko god da mu je grad davao, Kiš mu je višestruko vraćao. Njegova energija i duh razlili su se po beogradskom kulturnom životu kao plima: prevodi poeziju i prozu sa mađarskog, francuskog i ruskog, piše eseje za novine i časopise, adaptira i prevodi za pozorište. Kada je krajem pedesetih godina otkrio mađarskog pesnika Endre Adija, i kod njega pronašao po jednu pesmu za svako svoje duhovno stanje, odlučio je da više ne piše poeziju. Govorio je da ga je Adi sačuvao od toga da postane loš pesnik. Pisao je potom isključivo prozu i tek poneku pesmu. I te pesme, poput one koju je napisao povodom smrti Mire Trailović, jedne od najznačajnijih žena u novijoj istoriji srpskog pozorišta, pokazuju da je možda bio isuviše strog prema sebi.

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Tačno pet godina nakon što je ostvario svoj prvi san došavši u Beograd, Kiš je ostvario i drugi – put u Pariz. I opet dugo putovanje vozom preko slovenačkih i švajcarskih Alpa i prvi prelazak granice na „... na hodočašće u intimne predele... sopstvenog sna...” Dok u Parizu ispisuje svoj putopis, „oblakopis”, on čezne za Beogradom: „... Jedne me noći hercegnovske obuzela čama i počeh da čeznem za Beogradom... A već sam predveče lebdeo kao u snu nad Beogradom zagledan kao u kakvo čudo u đinđuve i ogrlice njegovih sijalica koje su iz te ptičje perspektive izgledale zamamne i skoro nedostižne. Posut pepelom po glavi, pokajnički i u klimaksu tihe radosti povratka, ja sam odjednom gore, u čistom zraku, na nekih hiljadu metara od zemlje, ostavio svoje šareno, kočoperno kosmopolitsko perje i spustio se na beogradski aerodrom kao u svoju matičnu luku. S tim mi je osećanjem da sam jednom zauvek pronašao svoju matičnu luku, bilo lako krenuti na put.”

Nema veće praznine od one koju možete osetiti kada vam se ostvare najveći snovi, a zapravo se oni gotovo nikad ne ostvare. Boemija ni u Beogradu, ni u Parizu nije bila ni približna onakvoj kakvom ju je zamišljao „... Sedim i pokušavam da se setim svojih snova o Parizu, no nikako ne mogu da vidim onu sliku što sam je godinama pomno gradio u sebi, čitajući Bodlera, Malarmea, Prusta, Verlena...” Naredne godine, u tekstu Posmrtno slovo boemiji, koji se pojavio u Politikinom dodatku Kultura – umetnost, objaviće da je boemija mrtva.

KIŠOVE BEOGRADSKE ADRESE Od Savske 13, prve beogradske adrese na kojoj je, makar kratko, stanovao kod tetke, do poslednje u Beogradu, u ulici Miloša Pocerca, koja se zaista nekako simbolično uliva u Savsku, kao da se zatvara Kišovo lutanje Beogradom.

U Studentskom gradu, na Novom Beogradu, stanovao je gotovo do kraja fakulteta. Ali je često tajno konačio u redakciji Vidika kada bi ga kakav kulturni događaj ili burno veče u kafani zadržali do posle ponoći. Prvu studentsku sobu iznajmio je pri kraju studija, sa svojim gimnazijskim drugom sa Cetinja, budućim kumom, Boškom Mijanovićem, studentom matematike.

Skromnu sobu, koja se nalazila u pasažu između Balkanske ulice i Terazija, u prizemnoj kući sa turskim doksatom, izdavao je stari par ruskih emigranti iz dvadesetih godina. Skromnost sobe nadomeštalo je to što je u centru i što se u kafanama moglo ostati do kasno.

Naredna adresa bila je Skadarska 10, na korak od Skadarlije, a potom mansarda na Dorćolu, u ulici Vioskog Stevana 31. Prijatelji su je se sećali kao hladne sobice od nekoliko kvadrata, ispunjene razbacanim knjigama i časopisima, do koje su vodile klizave stepenice. Nakon ženidbe Mirjanom Miočinović, asistentom u Institutu za književnost, uselio se u stan u Palmotićevoj 21, a Atelje 212, gde je dve godine honorarno radio kao dramaturg, odmah je iza ugla.

Kao svojevrsno priznanje Kišovom ugledu i značaju u kulturnom životu, samo osam godina nakon diplomiranja, gradske vlasti su donele odluku da njemu i njegovoj ženi bude dodeljen dvosoban stan. U stan, u ulici Ranka Tajsića 40 na Voždovcu, useljavaju se u jesen 1966. godine. .

Na poslednjoj beogradskoj adresi, u ulici Miloša Pocerca 30, i danas, gotovo dvadeset godina nakon piščeve smrti, na interfonu stoji prezime Kiš. Njemu i njegovoj životnoj saputnici Paskal Delpeš, koja je prevodila njegove knjige na francuski jezik, dodeljen je na trajno korišćenje dvosoban stan na prvom spratu .

U Beogradu živi od početka studiranja 1954. godine, sa prekidima između 1962. i 1964. i od 1973. do 1976. godine, kada kao lektor za srpskohrvatski jezik boravi u Strasburu i Bordou. U Parizu, koji je za njega prestonica kulture, Danilo Kiš živi deset godina, sve do smrti u oktobru 1989. godine. Tu je u dodiru sa izvorima evropske kulture, u svojevrsnom „džojsovskom progonstvu”, koje mu pruža posebnu vrstu mentalnog ozdravljenja. U Beograd se vraća često, gotovo svaka tri meseca, tako da se umesto nostalgije razvija „zdrava distanca” i „mogućnost da se sopstveni svet sagleda sa maksimumom objektivnosti...”

DUH JE NJEGOVA DOMOVINA Danilo Kiš nema svoj spomenik u Beogradu, a ulica koja nosi njegovo ime mala je i sasvim neprimerena ugledu i njegovoj književnoj veličini. Reklo bi se da je to najviše stoga što je od njegove smrti prošlo „tek” nepunih dvadeset godina, a ni sam Kiš nije podnosio patetiku, pa bi podizanje spomenika izvesno svrstao u takvo šta. .

Kada bi naredne 2009. godine, kakvim čudom, na dvadesetu godišnjicu piščeve smrti, negde u blizini Železničke stanice ili na Savskoj padini, grad Beograd podigao spomenik Danilu Kišu, ili novoj železničkoj stanici dao piščevo ime, učinio bi većim sebe, ali se i odužio piscu koji je i železnici i vozovima posvetio neke divne stranice svoje literature.

A on je, primajući sa ponosom 1986. godine, u Parizu, visoko odlikovanje „Viteza umetnosti i književnosti’’, shvatajući ga kao ulazak u „red donki-

Danilo Kiš and Mirjana Miočinović

hotovskog bratstva sanjara’’, današnjeg pisca i sebe samog video kao viteza lutalicu, čoveka ,,...koji makar po cenu da bude smešan, služi idealima pravednosti...’’

Od pesnika klošara Georgesa Armand-Picarda, koji mu je ličio na boeme s početka veka, tokom svog prvog boravka u Parizu, Kiš, u noći pred povratak u Beograd, kupuje za sto franaka, u kafeu Odeon, dvadesetu kopiju njegove neobjavljene pesme, sa naslovom kao stvorenim za našeg pisca – Putuje voz.

U poslednjem stihu pesnik se pita „... Sait-on quel sort l’ultime gare nous destine?/ Znamo li koju nam sudbina poslednju stanicu određuje?...” I gle čuda, evo gde se Danilo Kiš u svojoj poslednjoj stanici, pod mermernom pločom u Aleji zaslužnih građana u Beogradu, pridružuje svom nesuđenom učitelju slikarstva na Cetinju Petru Lubardi i umetničkoj sabraći slikaru Stojanu Aralici i vajaru Matiji Vukoviću. U večnosti drže master-klas iz slikarstva, vajarstva i književnosti.

JOVO ANĐIĆ Zahvaljujemo gospođi Mirjani Miočinović za korišćenje fotografija sa diska „Ostavština Danila Kiša“. Izdavanje diska pomogli Fond za otvoreno društvo i Centar za kulturnu dekontaminaciju. Zahvaljujemo i SANU za korišćenje materijala iz Arhiva Danila Kiša.

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Kiš tried to discover the secrets of Bohemianism, he often sat with friends such as painter Miro Glavurtić and Leonid Šejk as well as writers Mirko Kovač and Filip David.

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9. Tri šešira (Three Hat) Kafana in Skadarlija – Another of his favourite kafanas in which he “... delved into the world of so-called Bohemia....and drank...righteously...on an empty stomach, but to the end, always at once, taking a shot...”

10. Balkanska 21/Terazije 42 – In the passageway of the ground floor was his first student room, which he rented with his highschool friend Boško Mijanović for a symbolic fee from a Russian emigre couple.

11. Skadarska 10 – A flat just next to Skadarlija in which he lived for a short period.

12. Visokog Stevana 31 – The address of a mansard room of only a few square metres in which he lived before going off to the army.

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Kiš’s path through time in Belgrade 1. Savska 13 – From autumn 1948 through June 1949, he lives with his aunt, the sister of his mother Draginja Malović. In a building next to the train station he studies language day and night so he can pass a make-up final exam in Cetinje.

2. Faculty of Philosophy, University of Belgrade – In September, 1954, he enrolls in the re-established discipline History of Literature with Literary Theory. He attends lectures mostly in the large hall of the Law Faculty, then in the building that presently houses the Mining-Geology Faculty, in Dalmatinska Street. He was the first to graduate from his class on 1 October 1958, after which he immediately enrolled in graduate studies, where he graduated in 1960 after completing his thesis “Some aspects of Russian and French Symbolism”.

3. Student Town, New Belgrade – During his studies he stayed in room 342 on the fourth floor, then in room1173.

4. The Offices of Vidika, Knez Mihailova 40 – Soon after beginning his collaboration, he became a member of the staff of this student liter-

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ary magazine, located on the last floor of the building that currently houses the Faculty of Philology.

Kiš’s colleague at the magazine, Miroslav Egerić, recalls that they once found Kiš sleeping on the couch covered with a winter coat, over which Kiš wrote: “Here lays Kiš the robber – he’s not dead, nor is he sober.”

13. Palmotićeva 21 – After his marriage to Mirjana Miočinović, from 1964-1966 they lived in her uncle’s apartment, which was located close to Atelje 212, the theatre in which he worked as a playwright.

14. Atelje 212, in Svetogorska Street, known previously as Ivo Lola Ribara Street – The theatre where he worked as a playwright and in which he was a close collaborator with legendary director Mira Trailović. He translaed a number of dramas, some of which were staged, including Corne’s Sida, Jean Paul Sartre’s Trojanki, George Feidoa Cat in a Sack, and in 1969 premiered his interpretation of Euripides’ Electra, under the title Electra 69.

5. Cinematheque, Kosovska 11 – One of the places he frequents often, “a gathering place for the curious and in love” čarobnoj kutiji, Aladinovoj lampi...’’, in the dark hall, as if under a spell, he watched the films of Renoir and Carne, and while listening to the dialogue of films, the words convinced him that “the world was made of love and that love, like a new Messiah, will save the world from destruction...”

15. Restaurant Hotel Majestik – He replaced his outings to kafanas during his Bohemian period with visits to this notable Belgrade landmark, where he often got together with friends.

6. The National Library, Knez Mihailova 56 – Today the location of the City of Belgrade Library, one of the significant places from Kiš’s student days.

16. Ranka Tajsića 40 , in the Voždovac neighbourhood – Located near the Autokomanda traffic roundabout, he moved into his own first two-room flat on the fourth floor with his wife in 1966.

7. The Russian Czar Kafana, Knez Mihailova Street – One of a number of cafes in which

17. Prota Mateja 20 – The “noble friends” Filip David, Mirko Kovač and Miro Glavurtić often got

together in the flat of writer Borislav Pekić. This literary brotherhood got together for closed literary séances, in which they would read one another their work.

18. Miloša Pocerca 30 – He and his life partner Paskal Delpeš, Kiš’s translator into the French language, were given a two-room flat in this building that is located on the Savska slope.

19. Serbian Academy of Science and Art (SANU), Knez Mihailova – He became a correspondent member of the Academy in 1988, and in his will Kiš left the Academy his medals, awards, correspondence and writings. The Academy keeps his dictionary, books, writing table, Olympia typewriter, two works on wood which he made himself, and a small sewing machine.

Kiš’s descendants gifted the Academy with woks by Ljuba Popović, Vladimir Veličkovic and Radomir Reljić.

20. New Cemetery, Ruzeveltova Street – He was buried in this cemetery according to Orthodox ritual on 18 October 1989, in the Alley of Esteemed Citizens, under the same marble slab as Petar Lumbarda, Stojan Aralica and Matija Vučković.

Kišovim tragom kroz vreme i Beograd 1. Savska 13 – Od jeseni 1948. do juna 1949. godine boravi kod tetke, rođene sestre svoje majke Draginje Malović. U zgradi nadomak Železničke stanice danonoćno čita i tako uči jezik da bi se potom vratio na Cetinje da polaže popravni ispit 2. Filozofski fakultet – U septembru 1954. godine upisuje se na obnovljenu grupu za Istoriju svetske književnosti sa teorijom književnosti.

Predavanja sluša uglavnom u velikoj sali Pravnog fakulteta, a potom u sadašnjoj zgradi Rudarskogeološkog fakulteta, u Dalmatinskoj ulici. Kao prvi u svojoj generaciji diplomirao je 1. oktobra 1958. godine da bi se odmah potom upisao na postdiplomske studije, gde je sa temom „O nekim odlikama ruskog i francuskog simbolizma’’ diplomirao 1960. godine.

3. Studentski grad, Novi Beograd – Tokom studiranja stanuje najpre u sobi 342 na 4. spratu, a potom u sobi 1173.

4. Redakcija Vidika, Knez Mihailova 40 – Na poslednjem spratu sadašnje zgrade Filološkog fakulteta ubrzo nakon započete saradnje, postao je član redakcije. Ponekad je tu tajno noćio na kauču.

Njegov kolega iz redakcije Miroslav Egerić seća se da su ga jednom zatekli na tom kauču pokrivenog zimskim kaputom iznad kojeg je sam Kiš ispisao: „Ovde leži Kiš bandit – nije mrtav već napit.’’

5. Kinoteka u Kosovskoj 11 – Jedno od mesta koje redovno posećuje, u ovom „...stecištu zaljubljenih i radoznalih, čarobnoj kutiji, Aladinovoj lampi...’’ u mračnoj sali on kao omađijan gleda filmove Renoara i Karnea, slušajući dijaloge filmova čije su ga reči uveravale da je „...svet sazdan od ljubavi i da će ljubav, kao novi Mesija, da spase svet od propasti...”

6. Narodna biblioteka, Knez Mihailova 56 – Na mestu današnje Biblioteke grada Beograda, značajno mesto Kišovih studentskih dana .

Mačke u džaku Žorža Fejdoa, a 1969. premijerno je izvedena njegova interpretacija Euripidove Elektre, nazvana Elektra 69.

7. Kafana Ruski car, ulica Knez Mihailova - Jedna od nekoliko u kojoj pokušava da otkrije tajnu boemije, u njoj često sedi sa svojim prijateljima slikarima Mirom Glavurtićem i Leonidom Šejkom i književnicima Mirkom Kovačem i Filipom Davidom.

15. Restoran hotela Mažestik – Kafane iz boemskog perioda zamenio je ovom, gde najčešće izlazi i viđa se s prijateljima.

8. Kafana Prešernova klet – Tu je u svojoj boemskoj fazi provodio večeri lumpujući.

9. Kafana Tri šešira u Skadarliji – Još je jedna od njegovih omiljenih kafana u kojoj se „...zagnjurio u taj svet tzv. boemije... i pio ... pošteno, ... na gladan stomak, ali do dna, uvek na eks...’’

10. Balkanska 21/Terazije 42 – U pasažu u prizemnoj kući nalazila se prva studentska soba koju je za takoreći simboličnu sumu od starog para ruskih emigranata iznajmio sa gimnazijskim drugom Boškom Mijanovićem.

11. Skadarska 10 – U neposrednoj blizini Skadarlije, adresa na kojoj je kratko stanovao.

12. Visokog Stevana 31 – Adresa je sobe od nekoliko kvadrata na mansardi u kojoj je stanovao pre odlaska u vojsku.

13. Palmotićeva 21 – Nakon ženidbe Mirjanom Miočinović, od 1964. do 1966. godine žive u stanu njenog ujaka u neposrednoj blizini Ateljea 212, pozorišta u kojem radi kao dramaturg.

14. Atelje 212, u ulici Svetogorskoj, ranije Ive Lole Ribara – Radi kao dramaturg i blizak saradnik upravnice Mire Trailović. Prevodi nekoliko drama, od kojih će neke biti postavljene, poput Kornejevog Sida, Trojanki Žan-Pola Sartra,

16. Ranka Tajsića 40 na Voždovcu – U blizini Autokomande, u svoj prvi, dvosoban, stan na četvrtom spratu, uselio se sa ženom 1966. godine .

17. Prote Mateje 20 – U stanu Borislava Pekića susretali su se „plemeniti prijatelji’’, te Filip David, Mirko Kovač i Miro Glavurtić. Tu se to književno bratstvo sastaje i drži zatvorene književne seanse, gde jedni drugima čitaju svoje tekstove.

18. Miloša Pocerca 30 – Njemu i njegovoj životnoj saputnici Paskal Delpeš, prevodiocu njegovih knjiga na francuski jezik, dodeljen je dvosoban stan na Savskoj padini.

19. SANU, ulica Knez Mihailova – Dopisni član Akademije postao je krajem 1988. godine, a testamentom je Akademiji ostavio medalje, odlikovanja, korespondenciju i rukopise. U Sobi akademika čuvaju se njegovi rečnici, knjige, njegov pisaći sto, pisaća mašina olimpija, dva rada od drveta koje je sam napravio i mala šivaća mašina. Kišovi naslednici poklonili su Umetničkoj zbirci SANU radove Ljube Popovića, Vladimira Veličkovića i Radomira Reljića.

20. Novo groblje, Ruzveltova ulica – Tu je, po pravoslavnom ritualu, sahranjen 18. oktobra 1989. godine, u Aleji zaslužnih građana, pod istom mermernom pločom sa Petrom Lubardom, Stojanom Aralicom i Matijom Vukovićem.

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THE SPEECH OF HANDS What is possible to do with hands these summer days in Belgrade? The photograph record from the streets of Belgrade notes the hands that play, caress, hold, cast, tattoo, applaud, paint and sculpture, creating a specially stylized greeting from Belgrade caught by a keen eye.

Photos: Branko JOVANOVIC www.soul-foto.com

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RUKE GOVORE Šta se sve rukama tokom ovih letnjih dana moglo raditi u Beogradu? Fotografski zapis sa beogradskih ulica beleži ruke koje sviraju, miluju, pridržavaju, izlivaju, tetoviraju, aplaudiraju, slikaju, vajaju... a sve to kao poseban, umetnošću veštog oka stilizovan - pozdrav iz Beograda.

Fotografije: Branko JOVANOVIĆ www. soul-foto.com

BELGRADE MUMMY — SECRETS OF THE NESMIN PRIESTS

BUTTERFLY EFFECT What binds Belgrade, an old Egyptian priest of the god Min from 300 B.C., the Orient Line Steamer Austral that lies at the bottom of the Sydney harbour, and the colourful plainsmen village Mokrin? Though it could be, the answer is not “the butterfly effect”, the idea that an event which occurred at one time and place causes unforeseen consequences in another time and destination through the strange play of fate.

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he mentioned elements of our story are bound by something completely different: the unusual figure of Pavle Riđički — a nobleman, philanthropist, a man who respected science and letters, a world traveller who wrote travel journals — who “did not want to enjoy the “beauty of his travels alone, but was happy to enjoy them by sharing with his people; he didn’t travel in empty fashion but with an idea, to observe and record interesting things, for him and for others.”

With this endeavour in mind, towards the end of the 19th century a mummy arrived to Belgrade from Luxor.

The sounds of the polka and quadrille echoed that January evening in 1888 over the dark waters of the Suez Canal as a ball was held on the Orient Line Steamer Austral. On the deck of the ship sat Pavle Riđički, wrapped in a blanket, staring out at sea, listening to music and to the clamour of dancing. His thoughts, animated by the shine of Pharos’s stars, seemed to float by themselves along the rivers of time. He was not thinking about the tame Banat village of Mokrin, where he was born in 1805, nor about his possessions and the pitfall at Zgribesti near Lugoj (Romania), but about Cleopatra.

When the Austral arrived at Suez, Riđički disembarked and set off on his great Middle Eastern adventure. Although already 82 years of age, in the waning years of life, from January to March, 1888, he travelled about in a horse and buggy, sailboat, canoe, sometimes on foot or on mule, visiting Egypt, Lower Nubia, Palestine, Lebanon and Syria.

During the long and far-off trip, he marvelled at

the ruins of ancient civilisations, and in Luxor he bought an extremely valuable ancient Egyptian mummy, which he brought to Belgrade and gave as a gift to the National Museum so that “the Serbian people would look at it and learn about a special custom of old thinkers.” In the Belgrade news from 1888, readers were informed that from July 29 – August 7, the mummy from Luxor would be on display at the National Museum. This would be, due to circumstances, the first and last display of the mummy that would, after arriving to Belgrade, begin to work its fate in the hilly Balkans, going through tumultuous historical, political, social and cultural phases in the region.

THE LIFE OF THE MUMMY IN THE HILLY BALKANS At the outbreak of the First World War, the mummy was ensconced in the home of Captain Miša Anastasijević, which was directly next to the building of the University administration in which, after many moves, the National Museum moved in from 1893. Laying in the lower half of its open wood casket, the mummy was on display in a glass case, next to other museum objects, in a room that became known as The Mummy Room. In the first months of war, during the bombing of Belgrade, Austrian artillery hit the home that houses the National Museum. The house was destroyed and the museum pieces finished in a pile with the broken displays.

As World War Two engulfed Yugoslavia, the mummy was located in the Museum of Prince

Pavle, in the New Palace building, once again covered in soot and broken glass during the April bombing. After the National Museum moved into the building that once housed the Administrative Fun and the Mortgage Bank, where the Museum is to this day, the mummy was exhibited in a closed casket in an upright position for the first post-war exhibition that opened in 1952. It should be noted that an upright position for a mummy is highly damaging. Ten years later, the coffin with the mummy was removed from the permanent exhibition, placed in storage and virtually forgotten about. The mummy’s next appearance in history came about as a result of “higher political powers”, in 1986, when it was lent on long-term agreement to the Josip Broz Tito Gallery of Art of the Nonaligned Countries in then Titograd, now renamed Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro. Yet, once the hapless mummy arrived to the museum, officials determined that this new item did not fit well with the permanent exhibition, and once again the mummy was placed in storage.

The Department of Middle East Archeology within the Faculty of Philosophy, University of Belgrade, was the next agent to impact the mummy’s destiny. Dissatisfied with the fact that the cultured public in the capital city had been given short shrift as regards its ability to view a piece of humanity’s cultural inheritance, and stressing the need for the mummy to finally be researched, the then Department of Middle East Archeology within the Faculty of Philosophy launched an initiative for the National Museum to lend the mummy and

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The Belgrade mummy is held in the Archaeological collection of the Philosophy Faculty

several other old Egyptian artifacts to the Faculty for research and educational purposes. The coffin with the mummy was returned to Belgrade from Podgorica in November, 1991, and in October, 1992 was handed to custody of archeology students in the Archeology Collection of the Faculty of Philosophy, paradoxically, in the same place where the mummy exhibited the first time.

THE MYSTERIOUS SMILE UNDER COVER OF PEARLS Nearly 105 years after its arrival to Belgrade, after obligatory preparations, the author of this article, along with his archeologist colleagues, in May, 1993 began the first scientific study of the mummy.

Fifteen years of systematic, non-invasive, multidisciplinary research of the Belgrade mummy have revealed a multitude of valuable facts and findings.

Among the revelations: one larger and another smaller djed-pillar amulets made of blue-glazed faience (a material similar to glass), two amulets made of faience with an image of Osirian’s triads, comprised of Nephthys, Horus-the-Child and Isis, then the famous Egyptian wedjat-eye, made of the gemstone lapis lazuli, the goddess Maat and a heart ib amulet, both made of gold, a necklace of faience pearls, a cartonnage floral collar with falcon-headed terminals (layers of linen stiffened with plaster), then representations of Isis and

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Nephthys in the mourning posture, and then the goddess Nut and the lesser gods Duamutef and Imsety. The mummy was initially covered in netted beadwork while the fingerprints of ancient embalmers are still visible on the mummy’s linen wrappings. All of the these findings, along with the employed mummification technique, allowed us to identify date the creation of the mummy to the Ptolemaic period, sometime around 300 BC. The mummy is laid in a coffin, made of Tamarisk wood and 185 cm in height, that is painted and with gold inlay used on certain parts. Below the

neckline with geometric floral designs whose endings resemble falcon heads kneels a sun disc crowned Nut with extended arms and wings, and below her is hieroglyphic writing. The coffin was composed of about 52 separate wooden items (2 large trunks, 10 smaller pieces and about 40 various pegs and tenons) plus eyebrows and eyes glass paste inlay, whose blue remains are still visible.

The gentle, “soft“ expression of the Nesmin’s face with a Da Vinciesque enigmatic smile is not only a good example of skillful craftsmanship, but of the high artistic achievement as well. The 191st

Sharing the fate of Belgrade during the bombing in World War One, even the mummy of priest Nesmina

chapter of the Egyptian Book of the Dead, “Spell for Bringing the Soul to the Body”, is inscribed in the coffin In extremely fine handwriting. Among the thousands of coffins, papyrus and other similar ancient Egyptian monuments in the world, the text of the 191st Chapter has only been uncovered in 20 cases, of which only one is found on the Belgrade mummy. A 3-D scan of the coffin was recently completed, which will allow its detailed and exact digital reconstruction. A particular success was identifying the mummy. The mummy had already been identified as a 50-year-old male using x-ray, CT scanning and DNA analysis, but reading the partially damaged hieroglyphs from the coffin allowed identification of the mummy’s name. His name Nesmin, which in old Egyptian means “He who Belongs to the God Min”, born to father Wennefer, mother Cay-Hator-Imu, and paternal grandfather Džed-Hor. Nesmin was a priest, responsible for vestments and placing garments on statues of gods in temple of fertility Mina. Based on stele at the Egyptian museum in Cairo, we have identified his brother and cousin, and we’re on the way to identifying several other family members, who are today residents of various museums. All of his family members had the title of priest, but Nesmin’s mother was a temple sistrum musician (an instrument similar to a cimbal. Before our eyes, it is regenerating and reawakening the social

links broken long ago in ancien Egypt. Although the mummy was bought in Luxor, it can be said with a high degree of confidence that Nesmin’s entire family came from Akhmin, a town 200 km upstream from Luxor whose necropolis was completely decimated in the 1880s by illegal diggers.

THE BOOK OF THE DEAD NEXT TO THE HEART The Belgrade mummy is among the most well researched in the world, and future research, among other things, will include Nesmin’s medical history, creating a “virtual Belgrade mummy” using digital technology that will allow virtual research and virtually unwinding the mummy, then reconstructing Nesmin’s face so we can see the face of this ancient Egyptian priest’s face.

Among the most important and extraordinary discoveries was a scroll of paper that contained the Egyptian Book of the Dead, one of the rare examples of its discovery in situ, or in its original position, placed between the body and the wrapping under the left tricept of the departed, “next to the heart” so to speak. The papyrus was placed there so as to be easily accessible to the deceased, as a sort of guide to the afterlife. An extremely small number of papyrus scrolls may be linked to a particular mummy. Though partially damaged, the papyrus scroll of the Belgrade mummy is unusual in that it is thickly wrapped, and judging from the

fragments, and quite easy to read. It would be a shame not to remove, open, and read this “letter” left 2,300 years ago, but it would be an even bigger shame to do it without a serious investment fund and without a clear concept about where and how this papyrus will be exhibited and displayed. This is a discovery of world importance and that is the only kind of treatment that it deserves. In order for large segments of the public to see Nesmin, who may be rightly called an eternal ambassador of a high culture that disappeared, it is necessary to obtain special cases filled with nitrogen, which would protect that organic material as much as is possible, saving it for many generations to follow.

We often cite our roots, not knowing ourselves just how old they are – those are civilisational roots of humanity, but the Belgrade mummy, as a priceless cultural treasure of Serbia, is there to give us a lesson. The future of this item, along with 200 others from ancient Egypt, (e.g. alabaster vessels recovered from the Step Pyramid of Djoser), which lay unexhibited in the dark of a number of storage facilties of museums around Serbia, depends on the formation of a small and functional specialised Egyptology museum in Belgrade, named after Pavle Riđičk.

BRANISLAV ANĐELKOVIĆ photographs: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

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BEOGRADSKA MUMIJA – TAJNA SVEŠTENIKA NESMINA

LEPTIROV EFEKAT Šta povezuje Beograd, staroegipatskog sveštenika boga Mina iz 300. godine pre naše ere, engleski parobrod Austral, koji leži na dnu mora u sidnejskoj luci, i živopisno ravničarsko selo Mokrin? Mada bi mogao biti, odgovor ipak nije leptirov efekat – koncept po kome ono što se desilo u jednom vremenu i prostoru čudnim igrama sudbine izaziva neočekivane posledice u sasvim drugom dobu i odredištu.

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omenute elemente naše priče povezuje nešto sasvim drugo: neobična ličnost Pavla Riđičkog – plemića, filantropa, mecene, poštovaoca nauke i umetnosti, svetskog putnika i putopisca – koji „prijatnosti svoga putovanja neće sam da uživa nego je rad da ih uživa i narod mu“, te stoga „ne putuje naprazno nego sa idejom, posmatrajući i beležeći sve znatnije i za sebe i za drugoga“. Upravo tim i takvim nastojanjem u Beograd je krajem 19. veka iz Luksora stigla i jedna mumija.

Zvuci polke i kadrila odjekivali su te januarske večeri 1888. nad tamnom vodom Sueckog kanala, dok se na prekookeanskom parobrodu Austral održavao bal. Na palubi je, umotan u pokrivač, zagledan u noć, slušajući muziku i žamor igranke, sedeo Pavle Riđički. Njegove misli, potaknute sjajem faraonskih zvezda, kao da su plovile za sebe, rekama vremena. Nije razmišljao o pitomom banatskom Mokrinu, u kome se 1805. godine rodio, niti o svom posedu i zamku Skribešće kod Lugoša, već o – Kleopatri.

Kada je Austral ujutru doplovio do Sueca, Riđički se iskrcao i krenuo u veliku bliskoistočnu avanturu. Mada već u poodmaklom životnom dobu od osamdeset dve godine, on je od januara do marta 1888, diližansom, jedrilicom i kanuom, katkad pešice ili jašući na magarcu, obišao Egipat, Donju Nubiju, Palestinu, Liban i Siriju. Na tom dalekom putu divio se ostacima drevnih civilizacija, a u Luksoru je kupio i izuzetno vrednu staroegipatsku ljudsku mumiju, koju je doneo u Beograd i poklonio

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Narodnom muzeju „da je narod srpski gledi i njome stvarno se pouči o jednom naročitom običaju starih misiraca“. U Beogradskim vestima iz 1888. godine čitaoci su obavešteni da je „od 29. jula do 7. avgusta izložena na gledanje u Narodnom muzeju mumija iz Luksora u Misiru“. Ovo je, sticajem okolnosti, bilo i prvo i jedino samostalno izlaganje mumije, koja, dospevši u Beograd, počinje da deli usud brdovitog Balkana, prolazeći kroz burne istorijske, političke, društvene i kulturne mene ovih prostora. ŽIVOT MUMIJE NA BRDOVITOM BALKANU Početak Prvog svetskog rata zatiče mumiju u kući kapetana Miše Anastasijevića, koja se nalazila neposredno pored zgrade rektorata, i u kojoj se, nakon brojnih selidaba, od 1893. godine nalazio Narodni muzej. Ležeći u donjoj polovini svog otvorenog drvenog kovčega, mumija je bila izložena u staklenoj vitrini, pored drugih muzejskih eksponata, u sobi koja se zvala „Sala mumije“.

U prvim ratnim mesecima, prilikom bombardovanja Beograda, granatama austrijskih monitora pogođena je i kuća u kojoj je bio smešten Narodni muzej. Kuća je zarušena, a muzejski eksponati su završili u srči polomljenih vitrina.

Početak Drugog svetskog rata mumija je dočekala u parteru Muzeja kneza Pavla, u zgradi Novog dvora, iznova zasuta srčom polupanih prozora prilikom aprilskog bombardovanja. Posleratnim useljenjem Narodnog muzeja u zgradu nekadašnje Uprave fondova i Hipotekarne banke, gde se Muzej i danas nalazi, u prvoj postavci otvorenoj 1952.

godine, izložen je, u uspravnom stanju, što je za takav materijal gotovo pogubno, zatvoreni kovčeg sa mumijom. Desetak godina kasnije kovčeg sa mumijom biva skinut iz stalne postavke i uklonjen u zaborav muzejskog depoa. Na insistiranje „viših političkih instanci“, 1986. godine mumija biva dugoročno pozajmljena Galeriji umjetnosti nesvrstanih zemalja Josip Broz Tito u Titogradu, gde, pošto se nije uklapala u postavku, takođe leži u depou. Ne mireći se sa činjenicom da je prestoničkoj javnosti uskraćen čak i taj minimalni uvid u opštečovečansko kulturno nasleđe, i ukazujući na potrebu da se mumija najzad istraži, tadašnja Katedra za arheologiju Bliskog istoka, Filozofskog fakulteta Univerziteta u Beogradu pokreće inicijativu da Narodni muzej ustupi mumiju i nekolicinu drugih staroegipatskih eksponata Fakultetu, za studijske i edukativne svrhe. Kovčeg sa mumijom je u novembru 1991. vraćen iz Podgorice, a u oktobru 1992. prenet je na rukama studenata arheologije u Arheološku zbirku Filozofskog fakulteta, paradoksalno, praktično na isto mesto gde je mumija prvi put i bila izložena.

ZAGONETNI OSMEH POD POKROVOM OD PERLI Bezmalo 105 godina posle dospeća u Beograd, nakon neophodnih priprema, autor ovog teksta i njegovi saradnici su, u maju 1993. započeli prva naučna proučavanja mumije. Tokom petnaest godina sistematskih, neinvazivnih, multidisciplinarnih istraživanja Beogradske mumije, otkriveno je

mnoštvo dragocenih podataka i nalaza. Otkriveni su: jedan veći i devet manjih džed-stub amuleta od plavo glaziranog fajansa (materijal po sastavu sličan staklu), dva amuleta od fajansa sa predstavom Ozirijačne trijade, koju čine Neftis, Horus i Izida, zatim čuveno egipatsko udžat-oko od poludragog kamena lapis lazulija, boginja Maat i amulet srca (ib - na staroegipatskom) od zlata, ogrlica od fajansnih perli, ukrasni ovratnik od kartonaže (tekstil pričvršćen tutkalom i gipsom), sa naslikanom glavom sokola, te prikazi boginja Izide i Neftis u žalidbenom položaju, potom boginje Nut i manjih božanstava Duamutefa i Imsetija.

Mumija je prvobitno bila prekrivena pokrovom od perli, a na njenim ovojima, premazanim smolastom materijom, još se vide otisci prstiju drevnih balsamera. Svi ti nalazi, zajedno sa definisanom tehnikom mumifikovanja, omogućili su da za nastanak Beogradske mumije odredimo Ptolomejsko doba, negde oko 300. godine pre naše ere.

Kovčeg u kome se mumija nalazi, visok 182,5 cm, izrađen je od egipatskog tamariksovog drveta i oslikan, a neki delovi su imali i pozlatu. Ispod ovratnika sa cvetno-geometrijskim dezenom i završecima u vidu sokolove glave, smeštena je predstava boginje Nut raširenih krila, a ispod nje je hijeroglifski natpis. Na stopi kovčega, između dva ležeća Anubisa, nalazi se manji hijeroglifski natpis – protektivna formula boga Anubisa. Kovčeg je bio sastavljen od čak 52 zasebna drvena dela, te umetnutih obrva i očiju od staklene paste, čiji plavi ostaci su i dalje vidljivi. Prefinjeni izraz lica i blagi, tajanstveni „davinčijevski“ osmeh, ukazuju na visok zanatski i umetnički nivo. Na kovčegu je urezan i veoma redak tekst, takozvano 191. poglavlje Knjige mrtvih „Za povratak duše u telo“. Među hiljadama kovčega, papirusa i sličnih ispisanih staroegipatskih spomenika u svetu, tekst 191. poglavlja je do sada otkriven u samo dvadesetak slučajeva, od kojih je jedan na kovčegu Beogradske mumije. Nedavno je obavljeno 3D skeniranje kovčega laserom, što će omogućiti njegovu detaljnu i tačnu digitalnu rekonstrukciju.

Poseban uspeh bilo je utvrđivanje identiteta mumije. Mada je na osnovu radioloških ispitivanja rendgenom i skenerom, te DNK analize, utvrđen muški pol pokojnika, starog u trenutku smrti do

50 godina, iščitavanjem delimično oštećenih hijeroglifa sa kovčega otkriveno je i njegovo ime. Zvao se Nesmin, što na staroegipatskom znači „Onaj koji pripada bogu Minu”, otac mu je bio Unnefer, majka Čai-Hator-Imu, a deda po ocu Džed-Hor. Nesmin je bio sveštenik, zadužen za odeću i oblačenje statue božanstva u hramu boga plodnosti Mina. Na osnovu stele u Egipatskom muzeju u Kairu, identifikovali smo njegovog brata i bratanca, a na putu smo da lociramo i nekoliko drugih pripadnika familije, danas takođe žitelja svetskih muzeja.

Svi muški članovi imali su istu svešteničku titulu, a Nesminova majka bila je hramovska sviračica sistruma (instrument sličan cimbalu). Pred našim očima, kao da se regeneriše i budi davno pokidano društveno tkivo starog Egipta. Mada je mumija kupljena u Luksoru, sa priličnom pouzdanošću može se reći da potiče, kao i cela Nesminova porodica, iz Akhmima, grada nekih 200 kilometara nizvodno od Luksora, čija je nekropola osamdesetih godina devetnaestog veka potpuno opustošena ilegalnim iskopavanjima.

Beogradska mumija je trenutno među najdetaljnije proučenima u svetu, a buduća istraživanja, pored ostalog, podrazumevaju upotpunjavanje Nesminovog „zdravstvenog kartona”, digitalnu izradu virtuelne Beogradske mumije, koja će moći kompjuterski da se ispituje i virtuelno razmotava, zatim rekonstrukciju Nesminovog lica, kako bismo mogli videti i lik tog staroegipatskog sveštenika.

KNJIGA MRTVIH UZ SRCE Daleko najvažnije i zaista izuzetno otkriće jeste svitak papirusa, egipatska Knjiga mrtvih, jedna od retkih otkrivenih in situ, u originalnoj poziciji, u koju su je postavili sveštenici i balsameri, između tela i ovoja, pod levom mišicom pokojnika, takoreći „uz srce“. Papirus je tu smešten kako bi bio pri

ruci pokojniku, kao svojevrstan vodič u zagrobnom životu. U svetu se izuzetno mali broj papirusa može dovesti u vezu sa nekom konkretnom mumijom. Mada delimično oštećen, papirus Beogradske mumije je neuobičajeno gusto namotan i, sudeći po fragmentima, čitko ispisan. Šteta bi bila to svojevrsno „pismo“, koje nam je upućeno pre 2300 godina, ne izvaditi, otvoriti i pročitati, ali je još veća šteta to uraditi bez ozbiljnog investicionog fonda i jasnog koncepta gde će i kako papirus potom biti izložen i čuvan. Ovo je svetski nalaz i jedino takav tretman i zaslužuje.

Da bi Nesmina, koga s punim pravom možemo smatrati vanvremenim ambasadorom jedne visoke iščezle civilizacije, mogla da vidi najšira javnost, neophodna je nabavka specijalne vitrine punjene azotom, koja bi maksimalno zaštitila taj osetljivi organski materijal i sačuvala ga i za mnoge generacije koje dolaze. Često se pozivamo na naše korene a da ni sami nismo svesni koliko su oni zaista duboki – to su civilizacijski koreni čovečanstva, a Beogradska mumija, kao neprocenjivo kulturno blago Srbije, tu je da nas tome pouči. Budućnost tog eksponata, kao i gotovo dvestotinak predmeta iz starog Egipta, npr. posude od alabastera iz Džoserove stepenaste piramide, koji neizloženi leže u mraku depoa nekolicine muzejskih kuća u Srbiji, jeste u formiranju jednog malog, funkcionalnog, specijalizovanog egiptološkog muzeja u Beogradu, koji bi nosio ime Pavla Riđičkog, gde bi, pod staranjem naših stručnjaka za tu oblast, najšira javnost mogla da ih vidi kad god to poželi. To bi ujedno postala nezaobilazna tačka u kulturnoj i turističkoj ponudi naše prestonice.

BRANISLAV ANĐELKOVIĆ fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

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BELGRADE SUMMER FESTIVAL

MODELLING THE CITY The Belgrade Summer Festival BELEF 2008 is an international multimedia festival of theatre, music and visual art that will run from July 14 to August 3 in Belgrade. The founder and patron of the 23rd Festival is once again the Belgrade City Assembly. The theatrical programme, selected by Zanko Tomic, consists of productions and co-productions gathered around a joint concept called “The Fortress of Europe”. Visitors will delight in the opportunity to see performances at the Belgrade Fortress, while the programme is broad and varied, promising something for diverse tastes. Artistic genres will include everything from modern dance, a visual programme with various components, and a music programme, selected by Zeljko Kerleta, based on jazz of a particular sensibility.

The selector of the visual programme and its art director, Dorijan Kolundzija, has prepared an excellent art programme. In order to popularise the festival, the city will organise the creation of works of art to call people’s attention to the festival. The idea is to enable BELEF to become the main vehicle for modelling the city in the form of a large outdoor gallery, while at the same time turning the city into a work of art itself. The more Belgrade succeeds in attracting important artists and new talents from around the world, the more it will become a gallery in its own right, with streets, squares and parks keeping collections of valuable works of art.

In addition, this year’s festival will be marked by the visual art of young local artist Isidora Nikolic, who won the BELEF’s open competition.

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BEOGRADSKI LETNJI FESTIVAL

OBLIKOVANJE GRADA Beogradski letnji festival BELEF 08 multimedijalni je, internacionalni festival pozorišne, muzičke i vizuelne umetnosti, koji se od 14. jula do 3. avgusta održava u Beogradu. Osnivač i pokrovitelj i 23. festivala je Skupština grada Beograda. Okosnicu pozorišnog programa u selekciji Žanka Tomića činiće produkcije i koprodukcije okupljene oko zajedničkog koncepta sa nazivom Tvrđava Evropa. Imaćemo priliku da vidimo predstave koje će se uglavnom održavati na prostoru Beogradske tvrđave. Biće zastupljena i oblast savremenog plesa, a muzički program u selekciji Željka Kerlete zasnivaće se na džezu, i to posebnog senzibiliteta.

Selektor vizuelnog programa, ujedno i umetnički direktor Dorijan Kolundžija, spremio je posebnu umetničku ponudu. Proširena vidljivost BELEF-a u gradu biće omogućena korišćenjem umetničkih radova za upućivanje, podsećanje, obeležavanje, brendiranje festivala. Ideja je da interventnim umetničkim akcijama nad urbanim gradskim tkivom BELEF postane glavni izvođač radova na oblikovanju grada kao velike galerije, ali i grada koji je sam umetničko delo. Onoliko koliko bi uspevao da za sebe pridobije značajna imena iz sveta, ali i neke nove talente, Beograd bi se sam pretvorio u galeriju čije ulice, trgovi i parkovi čuvaju zbirku vrednih umetničkih dela.

Dodajmo još i da će se ovogodišnji festival održavati pod vizuelnim identitetom naše mlade umetnice Isidore Nikolić, koja je pobedila na pozivnom konkursu.

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BELGRADE BOAT CARNIVAL

30. AVGUST 2008.

REKE I OBALE BEOGRADA www.tob.co.yu

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42ND BITEF

42. BITEF

TRAGICOMEDY THE TRAGEDY OF OUR TIME

TRAGIKOMEDIJA TRAGEDIJA NAŠEG VREMENA

The festival of new theatrical tendencies BITEF will take place in Belgrade from 15 to 30 September. This year’s selection of BITEF is focused on the phenomenon of manipulation of the tragic in the modern world. Having seen numerous performances, the festival drew a conclusion that gradually morphed into this year’s slogan, which says that the tragic perceived by the theatre always turns into a tragicomedy. Thus, in this year’s selection, there are some of the most important and respected international theatrical authors who have dealt in their own way with contemporary phenomena, balancing on the thin rope between the tragic and tragicomic perception of the world they live in. Among them are the artists well - known to the Belgrade theater audience such as Marthaler, Goebbels and Gotscheff, as well as the artists who, although present on the international theatre stage for a long while, come to Belgrade for the first time. It particularly refers to the American choreographer and dancer Meg Stuart, who lives and works in Europe.

The Lack of Space is the name of Marthaler’s theatrical performance, which is an excellent metaphor for contemporary humanity, but at the same time a great tragicomic theme of modern theatre. The theatrical performance More or less Infinity, a spectacular example of the new circus originated in France by director Phil Soltanoff, will open BITEF.

BITEF – festival novih pozorišnih tendencija, biće održan u Beogradu od 15. do 30. septembra. Ovogodišnja selekcija BITEF-a fokusirala se na fenomen manipulacije pojmom tragičnog u savremenom svetu. Posle mnoštva odgledanih predstava, festivalu se nametnuo zaključak koji se postepeno pretvorio u ovogodišnji slogan, a koji, ukratko, glasi da tragičnost današnjeg sveta u pozorišnoj obradi gotovo uvek postaje tragikomedija. Tako su se u ovogodišnjoj selekciji našla neka od najmarkantnijih i najpriznatijih pozorišnih imena internacionalne pozorišne scene, koja su se, svaka na svoj način, bavila savremenim fenomenima, balansirajući na tankoj žici između tragične i tragikomične percepcije sveta u kom žive. Među njima su umetnici poput Martalera, Gebelsa i Gočeva koji su odranije poznati beogradskoj publici, ali i umetnici koji su, iako već dugo prisutni na međunarodnoj pozorišnoj sceni, prvi put u Beogradu. To se, pre svega, odnosi na Meg Stjuart, američku koreografkinju i plesačicu koja živi i radi u Evropi.

Manjak prostora je naziv Martalerove predstave i odlična metafora za savremeno čovečanstvo, ali, očigledno, i velika tragikomična tema savremenog teatra. BITEF će otvoriti predstava Manje-više beskonačno, spektakularni primer novog cirkusa, koji se rodio u Francuskoj, a koji rediteljski potpisuje Fil Soltanof .

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BELGUEST

EPOCAR

BELLE EPOQUE SPICE OF LIFE

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egardless of how it appears that meaning lies in big and important things, the experience of life will slowly make you realise that meaning is hidden in “small things”. The things that give you satisfaction, relaxation, that give your life that special magic – that breath from which, INFO DeLAero Centre ”Epocar” Autoput broj 22 (Motorway 22) Belgrade Tel: 011/2019-801 011/2019-816 www.epocar.com

The ingredients of life are more or less the same. Birth, growth, maturing, maturity, work, love... What makes life different, what differentiates it from person to person, is our ability to give meaning to our hours, days, years. with your palms spread wide, your dreams come true. And we all remember our dreams that came true. Epocar motor cars bring you that special spice of life, on many occasions and in many forms. Their old-fashioned replica motor cars are a reflection of prestige at first sight. Essentially, they are an indication of style, refined taste and love for ever-lasting values.

They come to us and to the present day from those beautiful old times, from the Belle Epoque, when life was celebrated and when people truly took delight in it. Designed in an era when a synonym for aesthetics was luxury, and not trying to save on material, these motor cars bring comfort and a light indolence, which corresponds to the social strata that used them as transportation means, but they were also a status symbol. Like the Great Gatsby, you can go around the city in a Jaguar or Mercedes from the 1930s, on a special occasion or on a fine day while the city is slowly getting dispersed around the cabriolet. Although modern cars can speed along at 140 kilometres per hour, the joy of the ride at around 40 kilometres per hour is in the subtle tediousness that we have all forgotten. The tediousness that makes you look around and gaze: the city, the passers-by, the cars. Where to go in an old-timer is up to your creativity and the talent for living.

Epocar is part of the big system DeLAero, which in its art workshops specialises in the production, sale and rent of old-fashioned replica motor cars. The motor cars are produced on order and most often sold abroad; they are handmade, and they are rented in the Balkan region including Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia… The people who order these cars can creatively participate in the production by choosing details, materials, colours; they can shape the car according to their own taste. It takes four to six months for an old-time replica motor car to be produced by Epocar. Every motor car is unique and all cars are made on the "Beetle's" chassis and with the "Beetle" motor, while the body construction is cast by hand depending on the model.

Two models from the earl family of Epocar are already recognisable around here: Il Conte is the replica of the legendary Jaguar model 2.5 Open Tourer from 1936, while La Contessa is the replica of Mercedes SSK from 1929. By merging the best features of bygone times, with interior mechanics adjusted to present times, Il Conte and La Contessa have the ever lasting charm of aristocracy.

While shooting an Epocar motor car from the earl family, La Contessa, for the front page of the new issue of our magazine, several people resolute to spice their life with it approached us. In nature, in the city, alive – Epocar’s old-time motor car replicas are even more powerful and warmer than on photographs.

After all, they are the nobility of times long past, that’s why they should be looked at carefully – and recognised. Enjoy yourselves.

DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ photographs: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

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EPOCAR

BELEPOQUE ZAČIN ŽIVOTU Sastojci života su manje-više isti.

Rađanje, odrastanje, sazrevanje, zrelost, posao, ljubav... To što život čini drugačijim, što ga razlikuje od ličnosti do ličnosti, to je naše umeće da svojim satima, danima, godinama udenemo smisao.

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ma kako se činilo da je smisao sadržan u nekim velikim i važnim stvarima, iskustvom se lagano ispostavlja da je on sakriven INFO prodaju u inostranstvu, ručne su izrade, a rentiraju se na teritoriji u „sitnicama“. U stvarima koje nam pričinjavaju zadovoljstvo, DeLAero Centar celog regiona, u Srbiji, Crnoj Gori, Bosni I Hercegovini, Makedoniji... opuštaju, koje životu dodaju onu posebnu čaroliju– onaj dah iz koga ”Epocar” Njihovi naručioci imaju mogućnost kreativnog učešća u izradi, tako se, kada se rašire dlanovi, materijalizuje san. A sve svoje ostvarene Autoput broj 22 što, birajući detalje, materijale, boju, oblikuju automobil prilagođen snove – pamtimo. Taj poseban začin životu, mnogim povodima i Beograd sopstvenom ukusu. Nastajanje jedne replike oldtajmera u Epocaru oblicima, sami po sebi, donose automobili Epocara. Njihove rep- Tel: 011/2019-801 traje od četiri do šest meseci, svaki automobil je unikat, a izrađuju like oldtajmera na prvi pogled su odraz prestiža. U suštini, one su 011/2019-816 se na bubinoj šasiji i sa bubinim motorom, dok se karoserija lije pokazatelj stila, prefinjenog ukusa i ljubavi prema vrednostima koje www.epocar.com ručno u zavisnosti od modela. Dva modela iz grofovske porodice nikada ne prolaze.

Epocara već su prepoznatljiva na ovim prostorima: Il Conte je Do nas, do vremena sadašnjeg putuju iz dobrih starih vremena Belepoque, kada replika legendarnog Jaguarovog modela „2,5 Open Tourer“ iz 1936. godine, a se slavio život istinskim uživanjem u njemu. Dizajnirani u vreme kada je sinonim La Contessa Mercedesovog „SSK“ iz 1929. godine. Spajajući najbolje odrednice za estetiku bila raskoš, a ne ušteda materijala, oni sa sobom nose udobnost i laku vremena prošlog, uz unutrašnju mehaniku prilagođenu vremenu sadašnjem, Il tromost, što odgovara staležu kojem su bili prevozno sredstvo, ali i statusni sim- Conte i La Contessa odišu neprolaznim šarmom aristokratije.

Samo dok smo snimali jedan od Epocarovih automobila iz grofovske porodice bol. Poput velikog Getsbija, u jaguaru ili mercedesu iz tridesetih godina prošlog veka možete obići grad, nekim posebnim povodom, ili samo zato što je dan lep, a La Contessa za naslovnu stranu ovog broja našeg magazina prišlo nam je nekograd tiho razasut oko kabrioleta. Užitak vožnje brzinom od četrdesetak kilometara liko ljudi potpuno rešenih da njime začine svoj život. U prirodi, u gradu, uživo na sat iako automobili mogu da razviju i savremenih 140, suptilna je sporost – Epocarove replike oldtajmera su još moćnije i još toplije nego što su to na koju smo zaboravili. Sporost u kojoj se vidi sve: grad, prolaznici, automobil. Kuda fotografijama. To su ipak gospoda iz nekih davnih vremena, zato ih treba dobro krenuti oldtajmerom stvar je vaše kreativnosti i umeća življenja. pogledati – i prepoznati. Uživajte.

Epocar je deo velikog sistema DeLAero, koji se u svojim umetničkim radionicama bavi specijalizovanom proizvodnjom, a onda i prodajom i iznajmljivaDRAGANA MARKOVIĆ njem replika oldtajmera. Automobili se proizvode po porudžbini, najčešće se fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

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Prince Aleksandar Karađorđević and Mr. Mark Walsh

C I T Y

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THE EXCHANGE OF SHORT VACATIONS Conditions of work for air carriers have drastically changed since the launch of the City Break phenomenon in 2000. The market has evolved enabling smaller towns to reap the benefits of an expanding tourism market. Air carriers sent a clear message to all towns that the market of short vacations is of key importance. Creating a win-win situation for everyone through marketing partnership and risk-sharing will ensure further profits to air companies and towns from tourists seeking short vacations – said Mark Walsh, director of City Break Gathering.

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he Annual Conference and General Assembly of European Cities Marketing was held in Belgrade from 9 to 13 June. The sponsors and organisers of this important gathering were Reed Travel Exhibitions, European Cities Marketing (ECM), the Assembly of the City of Belgrade, Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, Ministry of Economy and Regional Development and the City of Novi Sad. Around 200 specialised exhibitors, including 30 from Belgrade and Novi Sad as well as representatives of more than 70 European destinations, met during this year’s City Break with around 100 specialised customers. The so-called one-on-one meetings lasting 15 minutes, followed by the Reed Travel Exhibition were very successfully organised, thus enabling customers to talk to 30 exhibitors every day. During City Break exchange more than 2,000 meetings were held.

Within City Break gathering, there was also an air seminar in which John Strickland, Director of JSL Consulting, Arian van der Werff, representative of Transavia.com, Vladimir Ognjenović, Commercial Director of Jat Airways and Michael Whitfield, from Easyjet took part. During these seminars, they discussed how rising fuel prices affected the activities of air carriers, how these companies affected

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environment and how to work out new routes and emphasised the importance of support of local authorities and partners.

Mark Walsh, director of City Break Gathering had this to say: “Conditions of work for air carriers have drastically changed since the launch of the City Break phenomenon in 2000. The market has evolved, enabling smaller towns to reap the benefits of an expanding tourism market. Air carriers sent a clear message to all towns that the market in short vacations is of key importance. Creating a win-win situation for everyone through marketing partnership and risk-sharing will ensure further profits to air companies and towns from tourists seeking short vacations – said Mark Walsh, director of City Break Gathering.

THE ROLE OF THE HOST The organisation of such tourist events enabled the host to present its tourist assets primarily through the organisation of the meeting itself and the programme of city tours, special events and programmes for participants who gathered in Belgrade for the occasion. At the same time, it was the best promotion of Belgrade as a tourist destination.

The guests had a chance to view various tourist settings and attractions throughout scheduled evening events and tours of the Belgrade Fortress, Knez Mihailova Street, Republic Square, Court Complex on Dedinje, Ada Ciganlija, Skadarlija... They were able to taste a selection of local food and drink, but above all to learn more about the culture and traditions of the host country. They could also enjoy the dances and songs of folk dance groups KUD “Đoka Pavlović“, KUD “Gradimir“ and the sound of ethno jazz performed by the Vasil Hadžimanov band and Bisera Veletanlić, the dance club “Vračar“, trumpeters, urban traditional folk music played by bands performing in Skadarlija restaurants, “La Luna“ band, “Dejan & Boban“ band, etc.

ANNUAL CONFERENCE AND GENERAL ASSEMBLY Parallel to the City Break Exchange in 2008, an Annual Conference and the General Assembly of European Cities Marketing –ECM were held from 11- 13 June. The meeting provided a good opportunity and excellent chance for Belgrade to return to its rightful place.

European Cities Marketing is a leading professional tourist network connecting the interests of

The director of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade Fireworks over the palace Olivera Lazović in discussion with participants of City Break

European destinations. The network connects 140 towns from 30 various countries representing the interests of its members in the European Union and other tourist organisations. The members of the network are tourist organisations, conference bureaus of towns and directors of organisations in charge of managing tourist destinations. The annual programme of activities includes the most important conferences, seminars and research.

The members of the associations are given the opportunity to promote the tourism industry on the European continent with a single platform for the promotion of tourism in European cities, as

C I T Y

well as to represent the interests of the tourism industry in EU bodies, to connect the interests among destinations and promote tourist destinations in Europe.

Throughout the duration of this year’s gathering, many other issues in several working groups were also discussed: IT and e-communication, events and culture, communication and PR, research and statistics, seminar on marketing destinations and conference bureaus. ECM also visited the Tourist Information Centre at 5 Makedonska Street, since one of the topics was the activities of information centres and their role in the tourist offer and the

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dissemination of information.

Partners assisting in the organisation of the event included: Belgrade Fair, Lasta, Jat Airways, Austrian Airlines, Top Tours, and hotels such as IN Hotel, Holiday Inn, Continental Beograd and Balkan.

Business companies that assisted in the organisation of the event included: Zlatibor Voda, Lav Pivo, DonCafe, Wine Cellar Radovanović, Wine Cellar Radenković Centroproizvod and Garden Centre.

Next year’s host of City Break Exchange will be Goteborg .

BELGUEST

B E O G R A D U

BERZA KRATKOG ODMORA Uslovi rada avio-kompanija drastično su se promenili od početka City Break fenomena 2000. godine. Tržište je sazrelo toliko da su i sekundarni gradovi osetili ogroman porast ulaznog turizma. Avio-kompanije su poslale čvrstu poruku svim gradovima da je tržište kratkog odmora ključno. Stvaranje situacije u kojoj svi pobeđuju putem marketinškog partnerstva i raspodele rizika obezbediće i avio-kompanijama i gradovima dalju korist od turista koji žele kratak odmor – rekao je Mark Walsh, direktor City Break skupa.

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odišnja konferencija i generalna skupština European Cities Marketing održana je u Beogradu od 9. do 13. juna. Pokrovitelji i organizatori tog značajnog skupa bili su Reed Travel Exibitions, European Cities Marketing (ECM), Skupština grada Beograda, Turistička organizacija Beograda, Ministarstvo ekonomije i regionalnog razvoja i grad Novi Sad. Oko 200 specijalizovanih izlagača, 30 iz Beograda i Novog Sada, te predstavnici više od 70 evropskih destinacija, susreli su se tokom trajanja ovogodišnjeg City Breaka sa oko sto specijalizovanih

kupaca. Takozvani jedan na jedan, petnaestominutni sastanci, koje je pratio Reed Travel Exhibition, vrlo uspešno su organizovani i omogućili su kupcima da razgovaraju sa 30 izlagača dnevno. U toku trajanja City Break berze održano je više od dve hiljade sastanaka.

U okviru City Break skupa organizovan je i avioseminar, na kome su učestvovali John Strickland, direktor JSL Consulting, Arian van der Werff, predstavnik Transavia.com, Vladimir Ognjenović, komercijalni direktor Jat Airways i Michael Whitfield, iz Easyjeta. Tokom tih seminara razgovarano je o

uticaju porasta cena goriva na rad avio-kompanija, uticaju tih kompanija na životnu okolinu, o izboru novih ruta i značaju podrške predstavnika lokalne vlasti i partnera.

ULOGA DOMAĆINA Mark Walsh, direktor City Break skupa rekao je: „Uslovi rada avio-kompanija drastično su se promenili od početka City Break fenomena 2000. godine. Tržište je sazrelo toliko da su i sekundarni gradovi osetili ogroman porast ulaznog turizma.

Avio-kompanije su poslale čvrstu poruku svim

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gradovima da je tržište kratkog odmora ključno.

Stvaranje situacije u kojoj svi pobeđuju putem marketinškog partnerstva i raspodele rizika obezbediće i avio-kompanijama i gradovima dalju korist od turista koji žele kratak odmor .“ Organizacija takve turističke manifestacije omogućila je domaćinu predstavljanje svojih turističkih vrednosti, pre svega organizacijom samog skupa, ali i programima razgledanja grada, pratećim događajima i posebnim programima za učesnike koji su tom prilikom bili u Beogradu. To je ujedno najdirektnije promovisanje Beograda kao turističke destinacije.

Gosti su tokom organizovanih večeri razgledali IZLAGAČI IZ SRBIJE Austrian Airlines, Bon Voyage, Bon Voyage Tourist Agency, City of Novi Sad , EuroJet, EuroJet Travel Company, Glob Metropoliten Tours, Grand Casino Beograd, Holiday Inn Belgrade, Hotel Balkan , Hotel Continental Beograd, IN Hotel, JACOB, JAT Airways (AIRLIFT Touroperator), JAT-Hoteli Slavija, Lasta, Magelan Corporation, PE Serbian Railways, Ponte Travel, Putnik, Slavija hotel, Top Tours a.d., Tourist Organization of Belgrade,Tourist Organization of Belgrade – Belgrade Convention Bureau, Vekol Tours,Vekol Tours Travel Agency, Zira Hotel Belgrade, visitserbia.org.

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turističke ambijentalne celiname i atrakcije, kao što su: Beogradska tvrđava, Knez Mihailova ulica, Trg republike, Dvorski kompleks na Dedinju, Ada Ciganlija, Skadarlija... Predstavljena im je i raznovrsna ponuda domaće hrane i pića, ali pre svega kultura i tradicija domaćina. Mogli su da uživaju u igri i pesmi folklornih društava KUD Đoka Pavlović, KUD Gradimir, te u zvucima etno džeza, koji su izvodili bend Vasila Hadžimanova i Bisera Veletanlić, zatim u predstavljanju plesnog kluba Vračar, trubača, starogradske muzike orkestra iz skadarlijskih restorana, grupe La Luna, benda Dejan & Boban i drugih.

GODIŠNJA KONFERENCIJA I GENERALNA SKUPŠTINA Paralelno sa City break berzom 2008. godine, od 11. do 13. juna održane su i godišnja konferencija i generalna skupština European Cities Marketing –ECM. Taj skup je takođe bio dobra prilika i odličan put za povratak Beograda na mesto koje mu s pravom pripada.

European Cities Marketing vodeća je profesionalna turistička mreža, koja promoviše i povezuje interese evropskih destinacija. Mreža povezuje 140 gradova iz 30 različitih zemalja i reprezentuje interese svojih članova u Evropskoj uniji i drugim turističkim organizacijama. Članovi te mreže su turističke organizacije, kongresni biroi gradova i direktori organizacija zaduženih za upravljanje turističkom

destinacijom. Godišnji program aktivnosti uključuje najznačajnije konferencije, seminare i istraživanja. Članicama te asocijacije omogućeno je jačanje industrije turizma na evropskom kontinentu, jedinstvena platforma za razvoj turizma u evropskim gradovima, zastupanje interesa industrije turizma u telima EU, povezivanje interesa destinacija, te usmeravanje turističkih destinacija u Evropi.

Tokom trajanja ovogodišnjeg skupa razgovarano je o mnogim temama u nekoliko radnih grupa: IT i E-komunikacije, događaji i kultura, komunikacija i PR, istraživanje i statistika, seminar o marketingu organizacija destinacija i kongresni biroi. Delegacija ECM posetila je i Turistički informativni centar u Makedonskoj 5, jer je jedna od tema sastanaka bila rad turističkih informativnih centara i njihova uloga u turističkoj ponudi i pružanju informacija.

Partneri u organizaciji događaja bili su: Beogradski sajam, Lasta, Jat Airways, Austrian Airlines, Top Tours, hoteli IN Hotel, Holiday Inn, Continental Beograd, Balkan.

Privredni subjekti koji su pomogli organizaciju tog događaja su: Zlatibor voda, Lav pivo, DonCafe, Podrum vina Radovanović, Podrum vina Radenković Centroproizvod i Garden centar.

Naredne godine domaćin City Break berze biće Geteborg .

BELGUEST

CB RICHARD ELLIS

Belgrade Hotel Market Although Belgrade hotel market has experienced significant improvements over the past years, the overall agreement among tourist analysts and professionals is that there is still lack of both a sufficient number of high-end hotels and global hotel chains.

The majority of hotels in Belgrade are two and three-star hotels that need additional investment to meet the needs of more demanding guests. Lack of proper refurbishment and maintenance caused by financial difficulties and changes in the sizes and standards of hotel rooms over time resulted in a loss of former categorization for several hotels. Instead of four-star hotels, they were forced to charge for their services as three-star hotels. Another important feature is that there is a degree of discrepancy between some hotels’ claimed standards and the actual quality of the product. However, this problem can also be found in other countries.

A number of hotels are undergoing privatization process, providing substantial inflow of foreign investment in the hotel industry.

The acceleration of the privatization process will according to all expectations drive Belgrade hotel industry into overall redevelopment process. Existing hotels refurbishments followed by new developments that have already started and others that are in the pipeline or planned, will bring dynamic changes into Belgrade hotel industry. This scenario has already taken place in the region and soon the hotel market in Belgrade will become more mature and saturated with a more defined differentiation between the various standards.

The most dynamic changes in Belgrade hotel stock occurred in segment of 4-star hotels where supply has been enriched with three important brand new establishments (IN Hotel, Holiday Inn and Hotel Zira), renovations of old hotels and few small boutique-stile hotels (Mr. President and Admiral Club Hotel). Lower to middle budget hotels (2-3 star hotels) have, still not attracted significant investment, and definitely promise good development prospects in foreseeable future.

Compared to other capitals in Central and Eastern Europe (CEE), Belgrade hotel market can be divided into two broad categories, namely, international branded hotel operations and locally managed hotels. Of the sixteen five-star and four-star hotels, only four hotels are affiliated with international chains: Hyatt Regency Belgrade (308 rooms), Holiday Inn (140 rooms) and two Best Western hotels – M (173 rooms) and Sumadija (104 rooms). Inter Continental Hotel Belgrade lost its 5th star and official licence in 2005, and now operates under the name Hotel Continental. Hotel chains have a considerably lower market share in Belgrade (17.7 %) than in other major cities of Central and Eastern Europe, where they own and/or operate between 40 to 80 % of all rooms in each city. International hotel chains will therefore undoubtedly play an important role in future investment inflow into Belgrade hotel market.

Admittedly, Belgrade records yearly demand significantly lower compared to other capitals in Central and Eastern Europe due to: lower economic activity resulting in lower numbers of independent business travellers and a lack of development and marketing of MICE and leisure market. Government bodies have started several initiatives to increase demand by targeting both MICE segment and leisure tourism, first results of which are expected in 2008.

After the country opening in 2000, expectations were optimistic in respect how fast Belgrade will take back its place in the region. Unfortunately, what has happened is gradual evolutional process, not revival with exponential growth.

Nonetheless, future development of lodging facilities in Belgrade will be much more favourable for Greenfield investors, as they will be able to implement full compliance with international hotel standards. Such developments will provide the entrance for number of international hotel operators and the competition of attractive franchises.

Source: CB Richard Ellis

www.cbre.co.rs

E D I T O R I A L C I T Y B R E A K

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U V O D N I K N O V I S A D

Dear Novi Sad visitors, Culture is complex, like a mosaic made of place, tradition, art, celebrations and experience. It thereby represents all the particularities of the people who constitute the diversity of the city in which they reside. What makes Novi Sad special?

Primarily its people, whose temperament has been shaped by the Danube. The residents of Novi Sad are moderate, relaxed, never in a hurry. The diversity of its people is reflected in their multi-ethnicity and multi-religiousness, and therefore multi-culture has become our main feature. The capital of culture, or just the Serbian Athens, is sufficient to describe a pleasant town on the left bank of the Danube, below the Petrovaradin Fortress, hidden behind the slopes of Mt. Fruska Gora, surrounded by a plethora of fertile land and farms. Numerous galleries, museums, theatres, historical places, cultural events, festivals, archeology, architecture etc, offer something for everyone.

The list of happenings in the city is long, and because we are hosting the best European music festival in 2008 – EXIT, I would emphasize it particularly. Some 25 stages will be erected in an area of 112 hectares, and over four days the festival will feature a wide variety of music that promises something for everyone’s taste. The biggest names who will take the stage at the Fortress certainly include the Sex Pistols, Manu Chao, Primal Scream, 2 Many DJ’s, Nightwish and 600 other performers.

During the summer, you can enjoy Novi Sad Music Summer, the Sixth International Ecological Multimedia Art Colony “Lighthouse”, the Danube Regatta or you can cook fish soup in Kamenjar. There are plenty of reasons to spend summer in Novi Sad together. In a word, this is an experience that you should not miss!

Sincerely yours, Ivanka Čubrilo, Chief of economy and tourism of the City of Novi Sad Dragi gosti Novog Sada,

Skupština grada Novi Sad City Assembly of Novi Sad

Kultura je složena poput mozaika: od mesta, tradicije, oblika umetnosti, proslava i iskustva. Tako predstavlja svu posebnost naroda, ljudi – reflektujući diversitet i karakter samog grada. Šta to Novi Sad čini posebnim? Prvenstveno njegovi ljudi, čiji je temperament oblikovao Dunav. Novosađani su umereni, opušteni, nikuda ne žure... Raznolikost naroda ogleda se u multinacionalnosti, multikonfesionalnosti, a time je i multikulturalnost postala naš glavni adut. Prestonica kulture, ili samo srpska Atina, dovoljan je putokaz za lepu varoš na levoj obali Dunava, podno Petrovaradinske tvrđave, skrivenu iza brežuljaka Fruške gore i okruženu morem plodne zemlje i salaškim naseljima. Mnogobrojne galerije, muzeji, teatri, istorijska mesta, kulturna događanja, festivali, arheologija, arhitektura..., za svakog ponešto.

Spisak dešavanja u gradu je dugačak, a kako idemo u susret najboljem evropskom festivalu za 2008. godinu – EXIT, njega bih posebno izdvojila. Osmi po redu EXIT Noise Summer Music Festival počinje 10. jula na Petrovaradinskoj tvrđavi.

Na površini od 112 hektara biće raspoređeno 25 bina sa kojih ćemo slušati različite vrste muzike u četiri festivalska dana.

Najveća imena najavljena za ovu godinu svakako su Sex Pistols, Manu Chao, Primal Scream, 2 Many DJ’s, Nightwish i 600 drugih izvođača.

Tokom leta možete uživati u Novosadskom muzičkom letu, Šestoj međunarodnoj ekološkoj multimedijalnoj umetničkoj koloniji Svetionik, Dunavskoj regati, kuvati riblju čorbu na Kamenjaru... Postoji mnogo razloga da leto u Novom Sadu provedemo zajedno. Jednostavno, to je iskustvo koje ne treba propustiti!

Srdačno Vaša, Ivanka Čubrilo Načelnik za privredu i turizam grada Novog Sada

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NOVI SAD ID

Novi Sad is the tourist, administrative, economic, cultural, scientific and political centre of the autonomous province of Vojvodina, and is the second largest city in Serbia. Geographically it lies at a latitude of 19° 20’and a longitude of 45° 46’. The city has an outstanding geostrategic position due to its location on the Rhine-Main-Danube waterway (corridor 7) and corridor 10 and international land route E-75. In addition, Novi Sad is the busiest railway crossroads in this part of the country. The city represents a unique mixture of modern and traditional cultural values. The name Novi Sad means New Plantation (garden). The city’s urban history dates back to Roman times in the area of the Petrovaradin rock. The military-strategic position on which the monumental fortress was built has a very long and interesting history.

Across from the fortress, on the left bank of the Danube, a village of soldiers, craftsmen and tradesmen settled in 1694, after the Turks were driven out at the end of the 17th century. The Austrians then built a bridgehead around the village, which .was first named Racko (Serbian) village, and later Petrovaradinski sanac (Petrovaradin retrenchment). The village grew and its freedom-loving residents obtained the status of a free royal city under the name of Neoplanta, Neusatz, Újvidék by buying their freedom from Empress Marie Therese. The city took the name Novi Sad on February 1st, 1748. On the border between civilizations, which is reflected in the city's national composition and mixture of cultures, the city developed a unique spirit that is reflected in its culture and architecture, and even managed to reconcile and bridge many historical differences and conflicts.

Hotel Novi Sad se nalazi nadomak sabraćajnog čvorišta grada. Okružen je bulevarima koji Vas za desetak minuta dovode do najvažnijih privrednih punktova i centra Novog Sada. Hotel raspolaže sa 112 soba, 8 apartmana i jednim De lux apartmanom. Ponuda hotela je upotpunjena restoranom domaće i internacionalne kuhinje.

The Novi Sad Hotel is located in the vicinity of the city’s main traffic artery.

It is surrounded by boulevards that lead you in no more than ten minutes to the most important business points and the city centre of Novi Sad. The hotel includes 112 rooms, eight suites and one deluxe suite. The hotel’s offer also includes a restaurant of domestic and international cuisine.

Hotel Novi Sad Bulevara Jaše Tomića 1 21000 Novi Sad tel: + 381 (0)21 442-511, fax: + 381 (0)21 442-944, e-mail: hupns@neobee.net www.hotelnovisad.co.yu

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ODE TO JOY The residents of Novi Sad and their guests spend hot summer days on the banks of the Danube which is why majority of cultural events have been organized close to this big river, which mirrors a simple fact – the joy of living.

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he most popular summer event THE EXIT SUMMER NOISE FESTIVAL was born on the left side of the river. On its first birthday, it moved to the right side of the river. Originally conceived as a form of protest by Novi Sad students against the regime of Slobodan Milošević, the event subsequently became one of the major cultural and social events in the country. A 100-day programme started on the eve of the first democratic Serbian

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Presidential elections in 2000 in an effort to convince young people to go to the election polls.

EXIT – FROM DUSK TO DAWN Somewhere between the University Campus and the Danube, in the park and on the beach, free performances were staged and the message “It’s over” symbolised the exit from the last decade of the 20th century. The relaxed atmosphere on the

beach with many concerts, theatre plays and film screenings looked like a summer resort for young people in any “normal” country. That is how the organisers later got the idea to come up with a true music festival. They did the right thing, as the numbers clearly show: two days before the 2000 elections the last concert attracted 20,000 visitors, which is the number of just the foreign visitors last year.

The following year, a visitors’ camp was set up at University Park, near the beach, and the festival moved to the Petrovaradin Fortress. A 10-day programme on many stages presented various musical genres and performers. Most of the 200,000 visitors had a chance to see great stars performing live for the first time in their lives. Fortification walls and a view of the Danube from each stage became the festival’s permanent backdrop. Already after the first year, EXIT was proclaimed the biggest musical open-air festival in Europe. Some 1,000 accredited journalists covered the host city and all of Serbia.

The performances of DJ star Roni Size became an instant legend. With his three performances so far, he has become a trade mark of EXIT. The first year, he spent five hours on stage.

The audience packed the arena and enjoyed the sunrise over the wide river in a medieval setting.

The concerts of Kosheen in 2001, David Morales 2002, Moloko and Stereo MCS 2003, also left powerful impressions. The powerful and dynamic performance of the father of punk, Iggy Pop in 2004, and cello metal performed by the Finnish group Apocalyptica in 2005 were awe-inspiring.

According to many people, the best concert at the

EXIT SUMMER NOISE FESTIVAL at the Petrovaradin Fortress www.exitfest.org NOVI SAD MUSICAL SUMMER 10 June - 1 September in the City Hall, county church the Name of Mary and the Synagogue http://www.muzickaomladina.org INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF STREET MUSICIANS 5 – 9 September, downtown Novi Sad. www.muzickaomladina.org FISH SOUP AND PAPRIKASH COMPETITION Fridays at 6.00 p.m. in July and August, charda on Kamenjar www.markettours.co.yu INTERNATIONAL ENVIRONMENTAL MULTIMEDIA ART COLONY „SVETIONIK“ 25 – 31 August in Begeč www.kultura-vojvodina.org.yu

festival was that of the legendary band The Cult in 2006 as well as the unbelievable energy of The Prodigy in 2007. Throughout four days in July, Novi Sad looks like a popular summer resort, hosting young people from all over Serbia, the region and the world. From dusk to dawn they dance and sing on the Fortress, and from dawn to dusk they have a good time at Novi Sad’s beaches, take shade in the camp or stroll across the city squares and streets.

CITY AS A STAGE Classic music lovers can relish in the “Novi Sad Musical Summer“. Many orchestras and soloists from the country and abroad perform on various stages – at the Strand (Štrand), in the Danube Park or in the Atrium of the Vojvodina Museum. As usual, the concerts are also held in the Synagogue, City Hall and in the county church the Name of Mary.

For many years to come, Novi Sad will remember the incredible Bolshoi Theatre Chamber Music Ensemble, the Choir of the Moscow Patriarchate and the Madrigal Choir. Musical summer cannot possibly be conceived without the Belgrade Philharmonic, the Vojvodina Philharmonic, Jazz Orchestra and the RTB Symphonic Orchestra. Jovan Kolundžija, Jadranka Jovanović, Stefan Milenković,

Ksenija Janković, Rita Kinka, Valerij Afanasijev, Daniel Benko, David Burgess, the ensembles Renesans and Musica Antiqua are just some of the many performers who celebrate music in the city every year during summer. This year’s NOMUS will be opened by British organist David Sanger, who will perform in the county church the Name of Mary. There is, as usual, huge interest for the ever popular Evening of Film Music performed by the RTS Big Band.

Late summer in Novi Sad will be celebrated by the merry International Festival of Street Musicians. The five-day festival will feature street musicians, forerunners of theatrical and concert performers, entertaining people in the streets and communicating with them. This event (IFUS) was launched by the Centre for Cultural Animation from Novi Sad in 2001 in order to enable people to have fun in the streets after gloomy years of demonstrations, street protests and rallies. Street musicians, jugglers, acrobats, pantomime artists, flamenco dancers, theatrical and other groups and orchestras envelop the city in a special atmosphere. This year, down-town Novi Sad from the Danube Park across Miletic street and the Catholic Port up to

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the Liberty Square will be enlivened by musicians from Australia, Canada, Senegal, Morocco, Russia, Portugal, Switzerland, Italy, Macedonia, Germany, England and of course, Serbia. The organisers have announced extraordinary musical performances on the teremin – the first electronic instrument played without touching, as well as 20-member harmonica orchestra and a man playing a banjo standing on his head as well as a balloon concert.

Quiet and peaceful summer days on the Strand are here and there interrupted by cheerful groups of people arriving throughout the day on brightly-coloured kayaks, docking on white sands on Špic (Peak). It is difficult to say who is more enthusiastic – the swimmers on the Novi Sad beaches rejoicing at the arriving visitors or the visitors arriving to peaceful beaches after riding on the waves. On the river connecting European destinations, the participants of the TID regatta arrive to Novi Sad – this is the biggest and longest river regatta in the world. Every year on 26 June, the regatta sets out from the German town of Ingolstadt and on 28 August reaches its final destination - the Bulgarian town of Silistra.

Over 61 days, the participants row the incred-

ible 2080 km-long stretch of river. The journey through Serbia lasts two weeks, reaching Novi Sad on 3 August. Upon arrival, the participants are greeted with a musical programme and traditional Vojvodina lunch.

On Friday nights in July and August, you can excite your senses with the best fish in the region.

For many years now, the charda in Kamenjar organises a fish soup and paprikas competition.

While the locals discuss the culinary secrets and try to identify various spices and fish cooked in the kettle, foreigners marvel at the food prepared over an open flame, many of them tasting it for the first time in their life.

A bit up-stream from Novi Sad, close to the nature reserve Begeč Pond (Begečka jama), for seven years in a row, an environmental multimedia art colony Svetionik (Lighthouse) opens its doors. In the last week of August, the Cultural Centre from Begeč plays host to local and international artists who create their recycled art works in an idyllic rural atmosphere.

SNEŽANA STOJANOVIĆ EXIT photographs, courtesy www.myexit.org

LETNJI DANI U NOVOM SADU

ODA RADOSTI Vrele letnje dane Novosađani i njihovi gosti provode kraj Dunava, pa je većina kulturnih dešavanja organizovana u blizini velike reke, u kojoj se, kao u ogledalu, tokom čitavog leta ogleda lice sasvim jednostavne – radosti življenja.

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ajpopularniji letnji događaj THE EXIT SUMMER NOISE FESTIVAL rodio se na levoj obali reke, da bi za prvi rođendan prešao na desnu. Nastao je kao bunt novosadskih studenata protiv režima Slobodana Miloševića i bio jedan od najvećih kulturno-društvenih projekata u državi. Stodnevni program počeo je uoči prvih demokratskih predsedničkih izbora u Srbiji 2000. godine i imao za cilj podsticaj mladih ljudi da izađu na birališta.

EXIT – OD SUMRAKA DO SVITANJA Na potezu između Univerzitetskog kampusa i Dunava, u parku i na plaži održavali su se besplatni programi. Sa porukom „gotovo“ simbolično

je predstavljan „izlaz“ iz poslednje decenije dvadesetog veka. Opuštena atmosfera na plaži, uz brojne koncerte, pozorišne predstave i projekcije filmova, ličila je na letovališta mladih ljudi u „normalnim“ državama, što je dalo ideju organizatorima da naprave pravi muzički festival. Da su uradili pravu stvar govore konkretni brojevi: na poslednjem koncertu, dva dana uoči izbora 2000. godine, bilo je prisutno 20.000 posetilaca, a toliko je prošle godine bilo samo stranaca.

Naredne godine je u Univerzitetskom parku kraj plaže napravljen kamp za smeštaj posetilaca, a festival se seli na Petrovaradinsku tvrđavu.

Desetodnevni program proticao je na binama koje su se razlikovale po muzičkim žanrovima i značaju

izvođača, a većina od 200.000 posetilaca je prvi put u životu videla nastupe svetskih zvezda. Zaštitni bedemi utvrđenja i pogled na Dunav sa svake bine postaju stalna scenografija festivala. Već prve godine EXIT je proglašen za najveći muzički festival na otvorenom u Evropi, a slavu samog događaja , ali i grada domaćina i Srbije, u svet je prenelo oko 1.000 akreditovanih novinara. Dugo se prepričavaju nastupi DJ zvezde Roni Size, koji je sa dosadašnja tri nastupa postao zaštitni znak EXIT-a. Prve godine je bio na bini pet sati, te je prepuna arena dočekala rađanje sunca nad širokom rekom i srednjovekovnim zidinama. Pamte se koncerti Kosheen 2001, David Morales 2002, Moloko i Stereo MCS 2003, snaga i vitalnost oca punka Iggy Popa 2004,

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metalika na čelima Finaca Apocalyptica 2005, po mnogima najbolji koncert festivala legendarnih The Cult 2006. godine, i neverovatna energija The Prodigy 2007. Tokom četiri julska dana Novi Sad poprima sliku popularnog letovališta mladih pristiglih iz svih krajeva Srbije, regiona i sveta. Od sumraka do svitanja plešu i pevaju na Tvrđavi, a od svitanja do sumraka uživaju na novosadskim kupalištima, u hladovini kampa ili na gradskim trgovima i ulicama.

GRAD KAO POZORNICA Ljubiteljima koncerata klasične muzike namenjeno je Novosadsko muzičko leto. Mnogobrojni ansambli i solisti iz zemlje i inostranstva nastupaju na binama od Štranda, Dunavskog parka, do atrijuma Vojvođanskog muzeja i uobičajenih koncertnih prostora u Sinagogi, Gradskoj kući i župnoj crkvi Imena Marijina. Novosađani će dugo pamtiti gromko pevanje Kamernog ansambla Boljšog teatra, Hora Moskovske patrijaršije i Hora Madrigal.

Muzičko leto ne može se zamisliti bez perfektnih izvođenja Beogradske filharmonije, Vojvođanske filharmonije, Džez orkestra i Simfonijskog orkestra RTB. Jovan Kolundžija, Jadranka Jovanović, Stefan Milenković, Ksenija Janković, Rita Kinka, Valerij Afanasijev, Daniel Benko, David Burgess, ansambli Renesans i Musica antiqua samo su neki od brojnih izvođača koji svake godine dva letnja meseca priređuju muzičke praznike u gradu. Ovogodišnji NOMUS otvara Britanac David Sanger koncertom na orguljama u župnoj crkvi Imena Marijina. Veliko interesovanje vlada za uvek popularno Veče filmske muzike, u izvođenju Big Band RTS.

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EXIT SUMMER NOISE FESTIVAL Od 10. do 13. jula na Petrovaradinskoj tvrđavi www.exitfest.org NOVOSADSKO MUZIČKO LETO Od 10. juna do 1. septembra u Gradskoj kući, župnoj crkvi Imena Marijina i Sinagogi http://www.muzickaomladina.org INTERNACIONALNI FESTIVAL ULIČNIH SVIRAČA Od 5. do 9. septembra u centru Novog Sada. www.muzickaomladina.org TAKMIČENJE U KUVANJU RIBLJE ČORBE I PAPRIKAŠA Petkom od 18h tokom jula i avgusta na čardi na Kamenjaru www.markettours.co.yu MEĐUNARODNA EKOLOŠKA MULTIMEDIJALNA UMETNIČKA KOLONIJA„SVETIONIK“ Od 25. do 31. avgust u Begeču www.kultura-vojvodina.org.yu Pozno leto u Novom Sadu protiče u znaku razdraganog Internacionalnog festivala uličnih svirača.

Pet festivalskih dana ulični svirači, koji su preteča pozorišta i koncertnog muziciranja, zabavljaju ljude tamo gde mogu da ih vide, da im se približe.

IFUS je osmislio tim iz Centra za kulturnu animaciju Novog Sada 2001, sa ciljem da posle bunta, uličnih šetnji i demonstracija, iste te ulice osveži

prijatnijim događajima. Ulični muzičari, žongleri, akrobate, pantomimičari, komičari, flamenko igrači, klovnovi, pozorišne trupe i razne grupe i orkestri tih dana posebnim tonom oboje grad. Ove godine će centar grada od Dunavskog parka, preko Miletićeve ulice i Katoličke porte, pa sve do Trga slobode, raspevati muzičari iz Australije, Kanade, Senegala, Maroka, Rusije, Portugalije, Švajcarske, Italije, Makedonije, Nemačke, Engleske i, naravno, iz Srbije. Organizatori najavljuju nesvakidašnje nastupe muzičara na tereminu – instrumentu koji se svira bez dodirivanja i koji je prvi elektronski instrument, zatim dvadesetočlani orkestar usnih harmonika, pa nastup čoveka koji svira bendžo dubeći na glavi, te koncert na balonima.

Letnju svakodnevicu na Štrandu nakratko razdrma vesela ekipa koja ceo dan pristiže na kajacima jarkih boja i dodiruje kopno sa belim sitnim peskom na Špicu. Dilema je ko se više obraduje, da li redovni kupači na novosadskoj plaži svojim gostima ili gosti sa zaljuljanih talasa mirnoj plaži. Rekom koja spaja Evropu u Novi Sad stižu učesnici regate TID – najveće i najduže rečne regate na svetu. Svake godine 26. juna regata kreće iz nemačkog grada Ignolštadta, a završava se 28. avgusta u bugarskom gradu Silistri, tako da za 61 dan njeni učesnici preveslaju neverovatnih 2080 kilometara reke. Putovanje kroz Srbiju traje dve nedelje, a u Novom Sadu su 3. avgusta. Toga dana se u čast gostiju sa Dunava priredi muzički program i posluži tradicionalni vojvođanski ručak.

Petkom uveče, tokom jula i avgusta, jede se najbolja riba. Već godinama se na čardi na Kamenjaru organizuje takmičenje u kuvanju riblje čorbe i paprikaša. I dok se domaći gosti bave finesama, pokušavajući da saznaju začine i vrste riba koje su se krčkale u kotliću, stranci se kao deca čude tihoj vatri. Mnogi prvi put u životu jedu hranu pripremljenu na otvorenoj vatri.

Malo uzvodno od Novog Sada, u blizini rezervata prirode Begečka jama, već sedam godina se održava ekološka multimedijalna umetnička kolonija Svetionik. Poslednje nedelje avgusta Kulturni centar iz Begeča ugosti domaće i strane umetnike koji u seoskoj idili stvaraju dela reciklažne kolonije.

SNEŽANA STOJANOVIĆ EXIT fotografije, ljubaznošću www.myexit.org

INFO | NOVI SAD NOVI SAD TOURIST INFORMATIO N CENTRE Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 9 21000 Novi Sad, Serbia Tel./fax: +381 21 421 811, 421 812 e-mail: ticns@nadlanu.com www.novisadtourism.com www.novisadtourism.org.yu THE MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVI SAD PETROVARADIN FORTRESS Tel. 021/64 33 145, 64 33 613 THE MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVI SAD – FOREIGN ART COLLECTION Dunavska 29, Tel.021/451 239 THE MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVI SAD- THE MEMORIAL COLLECTION OF JOVAN JOVANOVIC ZMAJ Sremska Kamenica, J. J. Zmaja 1, Tel. 021/ 462 810 THE MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVI SAD – THE HOMELAND MUSEUM SREMSKI KARLOVCI Sremski Karlovci, Patrijarha Rajačića 16, tel. 021/810 637 THE MUSEUM OF VOJVODINA Dunavska 35-37, tel: 021/420 566, 526 555 Ethno house Brvnara, Bački Jarak Tel. 021/525 059 Agricultural museum Kulpin Tel. 021/786 266 THE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY FINE ART Jevrejska 21, Tel. 021/66 13 897, fax.

021/66 11 463 THE INSTITUTE OF THE PROTECTION OF NATURE IN SERBIA, NOVI SAD Radnička 20a, tel. 021/48 96 302 GALLERIES MATICA SRPSKA GALLERY Trg galerija 1, Tel. 021/48 99 000 THE MEMORIAL COLLECTION OF PAVLE BELJANSKI Trg galerija 2 , Tel. 021/472 99 66 FINE ART GALLERY – MEMORIAL COLLECTION OF RAJKO MAMUZIĆ V ase Stajića 1, Tel. 021/520 467, 520 223

HOTELS HOTEL ALEKSANDAR**** Bulevar cara Lazara 79 Tel: 021/480 44 44 www.hotel-aleksandar.co.yu LEOPOLD I ***** Petrovaradin Fortress 8 Tel: 021/488 78 78 www.leopoldns.co.yu PARK***** Novosadskog sajma 35 Tel: 021/48 88 888 www.hotelparkns.com NOVI SAD AD*** Bulevar Jaše Tomića bb Tel: 021/442 511 www.hotelnovisad.co.yu VOJVODINA*** Trg slobode 02 Tel: 021/66 22 122 vojvodinahtl@neobee.net SAJAM*** Hajduk Veljkova 11 Tel: 021/420 266 htpsajam@eunet.yu PUTNIK AD*** Ilije Ognjanovića 24 Tel: 021/66 15 555 Fax: 021/66 22 561 NORCEV*** Iriški venac, Partizanski put bb Tel: 021/48 00 222 www.elektrovojvodina.com ZENIT***, Zmaj Jovina 8, tel: 021/66 21 444, 66 21 327 FITNESS GYMNAS**, Teodora Pavlovića 28, tel: 021/467 710 PANORAMA**, Futoška 1a, tel 021/4801 800 MEDITERANEO**, Ilije Ognjanovića 10, tel: 021/427 135 RIMSKI**, Jovana Cvijića 26, tel: 021/444 765, 443 231 SVETI GEORGIJE*, Petrovaradin Marina Držića 1, tel: 021/432 332 EPICENTAR*, Branka Ćopića 122, tel 021/474 82 81, 474 82 81 DUGA*, Ćirila i Metodija 11b, tel: 021/63 64 191, 469 754

APARTMENTS APP TAMARA**** Lasla Gala 26 Tel: 065/543 55 43 DALE**** Jovana Boškovića 6, II sprat Tel: 021/456 916 cimiturs@eunet.yu VILLA UNA**** Avijatičarska 9 Tel: 021/518 101 www.hotels.co.yu/una VOYAGER**** Stražilovska 16 Tel/fax: 021/ 453 711, 453 712 www.voyagerns.co.yu APARTMAN 34*** Polgar Andraša 40c Tel: 064/169 96 46 BONACA** Kisačka 62 Tel: 021/446 600 www.apartmani-bonaca.co.yu SVETI GEORGIJE**** Petrovaradin, Marina Držića 1 Tel: 021/432 332, 435 624, 434 511 www.svetigeorgije.co.yu FITNESS GYMNAS Plus**** Teodora Pavlovića 28 Tel: 021/467 710 Fax: 021/474 0 704 www.gymnas.co.yu CAR ROYAL APARTMENTS**** 21000 Novi Sad, Cara Dušana 69 Tel: 021/636 22 00 Fax:021/ 636 22 01 www.hotel-car.net IL DE FRANCE**** Cara Dušana 41 Tel/fax: 021/636 23 82 office@ildefrance.co.yu www.ildefrance.co.yu PANSION BULAĆ, Čenej, Međunarodni put 80, tel.

021/714 455

HOSTELS IYHF BRANKOVO KOLO Visarionova 3 Tel: 021/66 22 160, 528 263 www.hostelns.com www.hihostels. com BELA LAĐA Zlatne grede 15 Tel: 021/66 16 594 Youth hostel DOWN TOWN Laze Telečkog 10 Tel: 064/1920 342 budinskim@yahoo.com BOARDING HOUSES ACENTER, Bulevar cara Lazara 94, tel: 021/489 7 222 APP naselje RIBARAC D.O.O., Ribarsko ostrvo 4, tel: 021/466 977, 466 978 BELA LAĐA, Kisačka 21, tel: 021/6616 594, 472 51 20 BOR, Temerinski put 57, tel: 021/6412 424 EVANGELINA, Sr. Kamenica, Branislava Bukurova 2, tel: 021/464 111 FONTANA, Nikole Pašića 27, tel: 021/66 12 760, 66 21 779 ILE DE FRANCE, Cara Dušana 41, tel: 021/ 6362382 ILIDŽA, Sr. Kamenica, Ledinački put 1, tel: 021/461 158 JET SET, Temerinski put 41, tel: 021/6414 511 KORDUN, Sr. Kamenica, Moše Pijade 10a, tel: 021/ 462 860 MOTEL RESTORAN ADICE, Branka Ćopića 62, tel: 021/543-000, 422 335 OLIMP, Sr. Kamenica, Miloša Obilića 8, tel: 021/463 295 SALAŠ 84, Kać, Kaćki put 84, tel: 021/445 993 SALAŠ 137, Čenej, Međunarodni put, tel: 021/714 501, 714 505 STARI KROVOVI, Novosadski put 115, tel: 021/402 882, 6394 793

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INTERNATIONAL REAL ESTATE AND INVESTMENT FAIR BELRE

MEĐUNARODNI SAJAM NEKRETNINA I INVESTICIJA BELRE

REGIONAL FOCAL POINT

TAČKA REGIONALNOG OKUPLJANJA

he third real estate and investment fair BelRE will be held again this year at the Belgrade Fair from 30 October to 1 November. Traditional meeting of investors, developers, consultants, banks, lawyers, designers and contractors became a regular regional fair. In addition to Serbian companies, this year the fair will host exhibitors from Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro, Bulgaria, Russia and Bosnia and Herzegovina.

– We are very glad that BelRE became a regional meeting place reaffirming Belgrade’s role as a center of southeastern Europe. In 2006, when we decided to launch BelRE, fashioned after real estate fairs in Cannes and Munich, people were first mistrustful. Nevertheless, we felt that Belgrade as a natural and onetime regional center deserved such a fair. The first BelRE had 40 exhibitors and 3 000 visitors, the second one had around 80 exhibitors and 7,000 visitors and this year we expect more than 100 exhibitors and 10, 000 visitors.

BelRe reaches out to business people, decision-makers, investors and their advisers. The opportunities that Serbia and the region at large offer so far have not been adequately taken advantage of, which is confirmed by a growing number of exhibitors and visitors every year – said Miloš Rajšić, Director of BelRE fair.

With the support of SIEPA, BelRE fair has been presented at real estate fairs in Vienna and London, and it will have presentations in Moscow and Munich.

BelRE fair is not only a presentation of projects, companies and services but an unavoidable networking event since all those taking part in a booming development of the real estate market and investments will be there. That is why you should come and check it out.

For detailed information on the next BelRE fair log on to: www.belre.org

reći po redu sajam nekretnina i investicija BelRE biće održan i ove godine na Beogradskom sajmu od 30. oktobra do 1. novembra. Već tradicionalno okupljanje investitora, graditelja, konsultanata, banaka, advokata, projektanata i izvođača radova, preraslo je u pravi regionalni sajam. On će ove godine, pored srpskih firmi, ugostiti i izlagače iz Hrvatske, Slovenije, Crne Gore, Bugarske, Rusije, Bosne i Hercegovine.

– Veoma nam je drago da je BelRE postao tačka regionalnog okupljanja, a Beograd dobio svoju afirmaciju kao pravi centar jugoistočne Evrope. Kada smo 2006. godine odlučili da pokrenemo BelRE, po ugledu na sajmove nekretnina u Kanu i Minhenu, ljudi su nas s nevericom gledali. Međutim, mi smo smatrali da Beograd kao prirodni i nekadašnji centar regiona zaslužuje da ima jedan takav sajam. Prvi BelRE je imao 40 izlagača i 3 000 posetilaca, drugi oko 80 izlagača i 7 000 posetilaca, dok ove godine očekujemo više od 100 izlagača i 10 000 posetilaca.

BelRe je usmeren ka biznismenima, donosiocima odluka, njega posećuju investitori i njihovi savetnici. Srbija i ceo region još nisu dovoljno iskorišćeni u smislu mogućnosti koje imaju, što svake godine potvrđuje sve veći broj izlagača i posetilaca – kaže Miloš Rajšić, direktor BelRE sajma.

Uz podršku SIEPA, BelRE sajam je predstavljen na sajmovima nekretnina u Beču i Londonu, a na jesen će imati prezentaciju u Moskvi i Minhenu.

BelRE sajam nije samo prezentacija projekta, kompanija i usluga već i nezaobilazni networking događaj budući da se tu mogu sresti svi oni koji učestvuju u eksplozivnom razvoju tržišta nekretnina i investicija. To je svakako dobar razlog da ga posetite.

Više informacija o predstojećem BelRE sajmu možete dobiti na web stranici: www.belre.org BELGUEST

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INVEST IN SERBIA – THE TIME IS NOW SIE PA

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ith a population of 7.5 million people, the Serbian market is the second largest in the region. Furthermore, Serbia is the only country outside the Commonwealth of Independent States that enjoys a Free Trade Agreement with Russia. Added to this are dutyfree exports to the European Union and the United States for most products and services.

Serbia is also a member of CEFTA, South East Europe’s free trade area, with 29 million people.

This region is also among the fastest growing in Europe.

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In recent years, Serbia has been among Europe’s fastest growing economies. Over the past four years, GDP growth averaged 7.0%, with this rate expected to be maintained in the coming years. GDP per capita of $5,764 in 2007 is coupled with rapid expansion of banking loans to fuel increasing local demand.

One of the key advantages of doing business in Serbia over other CEE countries are significantly lower operating costs. Serbia’s tax system is highly conducive to investment featuring one of Europe’s lowest corporate profit tax rates, set at 10%, and a package of tax incentives and reductions for high profit rates and easy start-up.

Labor costs in Serbia are comparable to those in EU membership candidate countries in the region, while standing at less than half the level of Eastern Europe’s EU countries. In addition, low utility costs are a strong factor in reaching high profit margins.

A skilled and productive labor force has proven to be one of Serbia’s major competitive advantages in the global investment market. The quality of Serbia’s intellectual capital is based on decadeslong extensive relationships with Western economies and an educational system that generates well-educated, fast-learning, multilingual, and IT literate people. In recent years, the number of university graduates grew by more than 15%, and annually averages over 16,000. Technical education is particularly strong–high school students perform among the best at international

contests in mathematics, physics and IT, and 1/3 of graduates come from technical universities.

Bordering Hungary, Romania, and Bulgaria, Serbia is at the doorstep of the European Union. Via the strategic transportation corridors No. 10 and No. 7, the country links Western Europe and the Middle East. From Serbia, you can effectively serve your European and Middle Eastern customers, thereby enhancing your business performance.

RISING FDI STAR Since 2001, inward FDI have reached $13.5 bn, with the number of Greenfield projects growing markedly, particularly over the past two years.

The list of leading foreign investors is topped by blue-chip companies and banks, such as Telenor, Philip Morris, Mobilkom, Microsoft, Banca Intesa, InBev, and many others.

Serbia’s strong FDI track-record is substantiated by internationally recognised awards for local Greenfield investors. For three years in a row,

Greenfield projects in Serbia were awarded by OECD as the largest Greenfield investments in South East Europe.

Serbia maybe isn’t leading the way in terms of FDI stock, but the number of hosted projects in 2007 and the fantastic increase compared to 2006 definitely proves Serbia is a rising star in the FDI sky.

FINANCIAL INCENTIVES State grants are offered for Greenfield and Brownfield projects in all industries, except for trade, tourism, hospitality and agriculture. Eligible companies are those involved in manufacturing activities, the internationally marketable services sector, and research and development.

Investment in manufacturing activities: • Available funds: from €2,000 up to €5,000 per every new employee; • The minimum investment amount: between €1 million and €3 million, depending on the

unemployment rate in the municipality where the investment is made; • The minimum number of new jobs created: 50.

Investment in the internationally marketable services sector: • Available funds: from €2,000 up to €10,000 per every new employee; • The minimum investment amount: €500,000; • The minimum number of new jobs created: 10.

Investment in the research and development sector: • Available funds: from €5,000 up to €10,000 per every new employee; • The minimum investment amount: €250,000; • The minimum number of new jobs created: 10. www.siepa.sr.gov.yu BELGUEST photograph: DRAGAN BOSNIĆ

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oslednjih nekoliko godina Srbija se nalazi među zemljama sa najbržim ekonomskim razvojem u Evropi. Tokom protekle četiri godine domaći bruto proizvod porastao je u proseku za 7.0 %, sa težnjom da se taj porast nastavi i u narednim godinama. Bruto domaći proizvod po stanovniku od 5.764 dolara u 2007. godini rezultat je velikog porasta bankarskih kredita, koji su dali podsticaj domaćem tržištu.

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Sa populacijom od sedam miliona i petsto hiljada stanovnika, tržište Srbije je drugo po veličini u regionu. Srbija je jedina zemlja izvan Zajednice Nezavisnih Država koja ima sporazum o slobodnoj trgovini sa Rusijom. Takođe ima bescarinski izvoz u zemlje Evropske unije i SAD za većinu proizvoda i usluga. Članica je CEFTA za slobodnu trgovinu zemalja jugoistočne Evrope, sa oko dvadeset devet miliona stanovnika. Ovaj region je takođe među onima sa najbržim privrednim rastom u Evropi.

Jedna od najvažnijih prednosti za poslovanje u Srbiji preko drugih CEE zemalja su prilično niski troškovi rada. Poreski sistem Srbije veoma je pogodan za investiranje, zato što Srbija ima jednu od najnižih poreskih poslovnih stopa od 10%, te poreske olakšice za ostvarivanje profita i jednostavno pokretanje posla.

Troškovi rada u Srbiji slični su kao i u zemljama koje su kandidati za članstvo u Evropskoj uniji, dok

su upola manji od troškova rada zemalja istočne Evrope članica Evropske unije. Niski troškovi komunalnih usluga predstavljaju dodatni stimulans u ostvarivanju visokog profita.

INTELEKTUALNI KAPACITETI Kvalifikovana i produktivna radna snaga pokazala se kao jedna od najvećih prednosti Srbije na globalnom investicionom tržištu. Intelektualni

kapacitet Srbije zasniva se na mnogobrojnim decenijskim vezama sa ekonomijama zapadnih zemalja na obrazovnom sistemu, koji je omogućio visoko obrazovanje ljudi koji brzo uče, govore više jezika i poznaju informatiku. Tokom proteklih godina broj ljudi sa visokim obrazovanjem povećavao se za više od 15% godišnje. Studenti tehničkih fakulteta su među najboljima u svetu na takmičenjima u matematici, fizici i informatici, a skoro trećina diplomiranih studenata u Srbiji upravo je sa tehničkih fakulteta.

Pošto se graniči sa Mađarskom, Rumunijom i Bugarskom, Srbija je na pragu ulaska u Evropsku uniju. Preko važnih strateških koridora No.10 i No.7 Srbija povezuje zapadnu Evropu i Bliski istok. Iz Srbije možete da zadovoljite potrebe kupaca iz Evrope i sa Bliskog istoka, i na taj način proširite posao.

POVEĆANJE DIREKTNIH STRANIH INVESTICIJA Od 2001. godine direktne strane investicije u zemlji dostigle su 13.5 milijardi dolara, sa znatno povećanim brojem greenfield projekata, naročito u toku protekle dve godine.

Na čelu liste vodećih stranih investitora su vrhunske kompanije i banke, kao što su Telenor, Philip Morris, Mobilkom, Microsoft, Banca Intesa, InBey i mnoge druge.

Veliki priliv direktnih stranih investicija u Srbiju potvrđen je međunarodno priznatim nagradama lokalnim greenfield investitorima. Tri godine zaredom, greenfield projekte u Srbiji nagradio je OECD kao najveće greenfield investicije u jugoistočnoj Evropi.

Srbija nema vodeću ulogu što se tiče ukupnih direktnih stranih investicija, ali broj ostvarenih projekata u 2007. predstavlja izuzetno povećanje u poređenju sa 2006. godinom, definitivno dokazujući da Srbija poseduje izuzetne potencijale za direktne strane investicije.

FINANSIJSKI PODSTICAJI Državne subvencije ponuđene su za greenfield i brownfield projekte u svim industrijskim granama, izuzev trgovine, turizma, zdravstva i poljoprivrede. Kompanije koje mogu da dobiju državne subvencije su one koje su uključene u

proizvodne aktivnosti, prodajni međunarodni uslužni sektor, te istraživanje i razvoj.

Za investicije u proizvodnim aktivnostima raspoloživi fondovi su od dve do pet hiljada evra za svakog novog službenika; minimum investicionih sredstava između milion i tri miliona evra, u zavisnosti od opštine gde je investicija ostvarena, a minimalan broj novih poslova – 50. Za investicije u međunarodnom prodajnom uslužnom sektoru raspoloživi fondovi su od dve do deset hiljada evra po novom službeniku; minimum investicionih sredstava je 500.000 evra, a minimalan broj novih poslova je 10.

Za investiranje u istraživanje i razvoj dostupni fondovi su od pet do deset hiljada evra za svakog novog službenika; minimum investicionih sredstava je 250.000 evra, a minimalan broj novih poslova je 10. www.siepa.sr.gov.yu BELGUEST photograph: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

VITANOV

PROMINENT ELEGANCE Wedding rings of the Vitanov creative workshop from Belgrade, which has mastered the old family tradition of shaping precious metals, are more than just a jeweler’s proficiency. What Cartier is to unique and luxurious jewelry, Vitanov is to the Serbian capital.

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ewelry has always been a sign that conferred respect and social status on the person wearing it. Such elements go far beyond decorative flair, but were an expression of elegance and lifestyle. This in itself has preserved the secret of the master’s skillfulness and the mark of the times.

Just as precious stones need the hands of a skillful master, the unhidden beauty of rings, diadems, earrings, or bracelets were, are, and have remained the art of shaping precious metals.

In that style, the creative family workshop Vitanov, located in Belgrade’s Vasina Street and at a few other shops in town, as well as online shopping, offers its buyers unique models of wedding rings.

Quality processing and modern design are a kind of philosophy of their signature. They are made from white and yellow gold, enriched with diamonds and zircons. The Vitanov workshops produce part of their jewelry, while the rest comes from renowned manufacturers from around the world, which are imported from Italy.

You can choose pieces that reflect everything from classical to modernly designed forms. The manufacture of our jewelry is top quality; the pieces are marked by the value and beauty given by precious metals and precious and semi-precious stones. If you don’t find jewelry that suits your taste from this great offer, or if you want a piece of jewelry made according to a model you prefer, Vitanov jewelry will make the piece according to your design.

Vitanov rounds up its business story with watches. Four years ago, it

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became the general representative of Japanese company SEIKO in Serbia; it has cooperated with this company for over 15 years.

Today SEIKO wrist watches set the standard for measuring and reading time based on state-of-the-art technologies. The producer from Japan applies the kinetic programme, characterised by the use of energy from the movement of the person wearing the watch. When you move while wearing a watch, you generate energy and electricity, providing for yourself top precision; and when you leave it still, it will work for another six months without error.

With various forms and designs for younger generations, business people, hoteliers and diplomatic and classy people, Vitanov offers SEIKO’s four new collections – arctura, velatura, premier and sportura. The average position of one of the most refined wrist watches in the world, portraying top characteristics and potential, has been given to the Arctura Kinetic collection.

Every art, including those confirming the craftsmanship of the jeweler and the way we measure life’s moments with beats, help us more easily reveal beauty, to get used to searching for essence and our own identity. On that road, may Vitanov join you.

VLADIMIR POČUČ

VITANOV

ELEGANCIJA ISTIČE KOJA SE ISTI

Burme i vereničko vereni prstenje kreativne radionice Vitanov iz Beograda, koja decenijama usavršava usavr staru porodičnu tradiciju oblikovanja plemenitih metala, jesu vi više od zlatarskog umeća. Ono što na svetskoj pozornici unikatnog i luksuznog nakita nosi pečat pe čuvene kuće Cartier u srpskoj prestonici potpisano je najčešće naj imenom Vitanov.

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duvek se na osnovu nakita sudi o ugledu i društvenom statusu onoga ko ga nosi.

Predstavljao je izraz elegancije, ali još više životnog stila. U sebi je čuvao i tajnu majstorske veštine i prepoznatljivost vremena.

Baš kao što su i dragom kamenu potrebne ruke veštog majstora, neskrivena lepota prstenja, dijadema, naušnica ili ogrlica bila je i ostala umetnost oblikovanja plemenitih metala. U tom maniru kreativna porodična radionica Vitanov, u beogradskoj Vasinoj ulici, ali i na još nekoliko prodajnih mesta, i posredstvom on-line prodavnice, svojim kupcima daruje jedinstvene modele burmi i vereničkog prstenja.

Kvalitetna obrada i moderan dizajn jesu svojevrsna filosofija njihovog potpisa. Načinjene su od belog i žutog zlata, oplemenjene dijamantima ili cirkonima, peskirane led ili nekom drugom varijantom. Deo nakita proizveden je u sopstvenim radionicama Vitanov, a ostatak bogate ponude čine modeli poznatih svetskih proizvođača, uvezenih iz Italije.

Oblike možete birati u velikom rasponu od klasičnih do moderno dizajniranih komada, a zajednički imenitelj im je vrhunska izrada, vrednost i lepota koju im daju plemeniti metali i ugrađeno drago i poludrago kamenje. Ako u obilju izloženih oblika ne pronađete nakit kakav ste zamislili, ili ako poželite da se za vas izradi poseban komad po uzoru na model koji vam je drag, majstori zlatare Vitanov će po vašem nacrtu ili ideji izraditi baš takav.

Poslovnu priču Vitanov zaokružuje satovima. Od pre četiri godine generalni je zastupnik poznate japanske firme SEIKO u našoj zemlji, s kojom sarađuje duže od petnaest godina.

Danas SEIKO satovi odmeravanje i čitanje vremena zasnivaju na najsavremenijim tehnologijama. Proizvođač iz Japana primenjuje kinetic program, osoben po tome što koristi energiju pokreta osobe koja nosi sat. Kada se krećete, on generiše energiju i elektricitet, te obezbeđuje vrhunsku preciznost, a kada ga ostavite da miruje, nepogrešivo radi još šest meseci.

Uz različite oblike i dizajn za mlađe generacije, poslovni, hotelijerski i

diplomatski svet od stila, Vitanov izdvaja četiri nove SEIKO kolekcije – arcturu, velaturu, premier i sporturu. Prestižna pozicija jednog od najprefinjenijih satova na svetu, vrhunskih karakteristika i mogućnosti pripala je upravo kolekciji Arctura Kinetic.

Svaka umetnost, pa i one kojima se potvrđuju zlatarsko umeće ili način na koji otkucajima merimo životne trenutke, pomažu da lakše otkrijemo lepotu, da se naviknemo da tragamo i za čovekovom suštinom i za svojim identitetom. Neka se i vama na tom putovanju pridruži Vitanov.

VLADIMIR POČUČ

INFO Vitanov Vasina 14, Belgrade Tel: 011 / 21 - 81 - 394 011 / 26 - 31 - 742 www.vitanov.rs

BUSINESS

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ALPHA BANK

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ALPHA BANK

STRONG EXPANSION OF BUSINESS NETWORK

SNAŽNA EKSPANZIJA POSLOVNE MREŽE

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lpha Bank continues to expand its network of branches and subbranches across Serbian territory in order to build long-term relationships with clients and offer them high quality products and services in almost each Serbian municipality. Bank currently operates through 142 branch offices spread across 97 cities in Serbia, which positioning Alpha Bank among the top five banks in terms of the size of its branch office network.

With the determination to be present in every Serbian city, Alpha Bank is planning to open 60 new branches and sub-branches this year, which means that this international banking group will operate thought 190 locations in Serbia by the end of 2008.

Alpha Bank offers a wide range of products and services to the retail, SME and corporate clients. These include already well-known products, such as One for all refinancing loan, housing loans protected from a rise of interest rates, car loans, cash and consumer loans, a broad spectrum of credit and debit cards, savings with very attractive interest rates, brokerage activities, etc.

Alpha Bank is available for its clients 24 hours a day, seven days per week, through the network of 153 ATM machines, which represents 10 percent of all ATM machines in Serbia. Using our electronic banking services, Internet users may enjoy all of the advantages of quick and simple bank transactions without coming in personal to branch offices. Wherever is an Internet connection, clients can simply enter at Alpha Bank web site www.alphabankserbia.com and by choosing the option “alphaebank”, they will have information about account balance, changes to their account status, or they can pay bills, either immediately or on a specified date.

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lpha Bank nastavlja sa ekspanzijom i širenjem mreže poslovnica na teritoriji cele zemlje, u nameri da izgradi dugoročne odnose sa svojim klijentima i da im pruži raznovrsnu i bogatu uslugu nadohvat ruke. Trenutno posluju 142 filijale i ekspoziture koje su raspoređene u 97 gradova Srbije, što po veličini poslovne mreže Alpha Bank svrstava među prvih pet banaka srpske bankarske elite. Planovi te internacionalne bankarske grupacije daleko su veći i ambiciozniji, tako da će do kraja 2008. godine Alpha Bank svoje poslovanje obavljati putem mreže od 190 poslovnih jedinica u Srbiji.

U ekspoziturama Alpha Bank klijenti mogu da koriste sve usluge banke namenjene stanovništvu i privredi, koje se na našem tržištu već duže nude po veoma povoljnim uslovima. Tu su već dobro poznati proizvodi namenjeni građanstvu: Jedan za sve refinansirajući krediti, stambeni krediti Zaštićeni od rasta kamatnih stopa, auto-krediti, keš i potrošački krediti, paleta kreditnih i debitnih kartica, štednja po veoma povoljnim uslovima, brokerske usluge i dr.

Pored toga, Alpha Bank je dostupna klijentima 24 sata, sedam dana u nedelji i posredstvom mreže od 153 bankomata, što čini oko 10% od ukupnog broja bankomata u Srbiji. Uz pomoć elektronskog bankarstva, svi korisnici Interneta, mogu da uživaju u pogodnostima brzog i jednostavnog obavljanja brojnih bankarskih usluga i to bez dolaska u ekspozituru. Na svakom mestu gde postoji Internet konekcija, jednostavnim ulaskom na www.alphabankserbia.com i izborom opcije „alphaebank“, može se dobiti uvid u stanje i pregled promena na tekućem računu, depozitima i štednji, dok se plaćanje računa može obaviti odmah ili na željeni datum.

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DINERS CLUB

CHILDREN'S SMILE CARD

Hundreds of socially responsible and humane citizens and companies, in cooperation with numerous sale points, already accept and use the co-branded credit card of Unicef and Diners Club International Belgrade – the Children's Smile Card – thereby directly helping imperilled children in Serbia.

Many owners and company and shop managers in Belgrade have already displayed a label informing Diners Club members that their establishment welcomes Unicef/DCI co-branded cards!

By doing so, they directly help strive towards an ideal that is difficult to reach in many countries of the world, as it is in Serbia – to create a society that is right for children!

Over 100 sales points offer special discounts and benefits when making purchases with your Children's Smile Card, while the number of users of this credit card, counting both individuals and companies, is currently several hundred and constantly on the rise!

Diners Club Belgrade, in line with the social responsibility practices of Diners Club International in the world, started this unique project in cooperation with Unicef Serbia.

With every use of the Children's Smile Card, Diners Club Belgrade gives away part of its interest for the Children’s Fund of the United Nations!

We once again remind you – every fifth child in Serbia lives in poverty, 300,000 children are hungry and live in isolation, are exposed to humiliation, disease and ignorance, without the right to an education or healthcare, and lack social protection!

The credit card of Diners Club Belgrade and Unicef is a chance for all humane people, and for all companies and their sales points, to show that with a humane discount and other benefits they positively value, in a special way, the engagement of those who decide to purchase with the Children's Smile Card.

DINERS CLUB

KARTICA ZA DEČJI OSMEH Na stotine društveno odgovornih i humanih građana i kompanija, u saradnji sa mnogobrojnim prodajnim mestima, već prihvata, odnosno koristi cobrand kreditnu karticu Unicefa i Diners Club International Belgrade – Karticu za dečji osmeh –direktno pomažući ugroženoj deci Srbije.

Mnogi vlasnici i menadžeri kompanija i prodavnica u Beogradu vidno su istakli nalepnicu kojom članove Diners Cluba obaveštavaju о tome da baš tu mogu privilegovano kupovati co-brand karticom Unicefa i DCI-a!

Time neposredno pomažu ideal nedostižan mnogim zemljama u svetu, pa i Srbiji – kreiranje društva po meri deteta!

Više od sto prodajnih mesta omogućava specijalne popuste i pogodnosti na kupovinu Karticom za dečji osmeh, a broj korisnika nove kreditne kartice, pojedinaca i firmi trenutno iznosi nekoliko stotina i svakodnevno raste!

Diners Club Beograd je, prateći postojeću praksu društvene odgovornosti kompanije Diners Club International u svetu, otpočeo ovaj jedinstveni projekat s Unicefom u Srbiji.

Prilikom svake transakcije Karticom za dečji osmeh Diners Club Beograd odriče se dela sopstvene provizije u korist Dečjeg fonda Ujedinjenih nacija!

Ponovo vas podsećamo – svako peto dete u Srbiji živi u siromaštvu, trista hiljada dece je gladno i u izolaciji, izloženo poniženjima, bolestima i neznanju, bez prava na obrazovanje, zdravstvenu i socijalnu zaštitu!

Kreditna kartica Diners Cluba Beograd i Unicefa prilika je za sve humane ljude u Srbiji da se iskažu, a za sve firme i njihova prodajna mesta da na poseban način, humanim popustom i drugim pogodnostima, pozitivno vrednuju angažman onih koji se odlučuju na kupovinu Karticom za dečji osmeh.

BELGUEST

BelGuest SUMMER 2008

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BUSINESS

CLUB

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POSLOVNI

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INTERNET PORTAL

INTERNET PORTAL

ALL ROADS LEAD TO WEB PORTAL SERBIATOURISTGUIDE.COM

SVI PUTEVI VODE NA WEB PORTAL SERBIATOURISTGUIDE.COM

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ummer calls for travel. Where to travel is a question that can turn the nice and attractive idea of travel into a small nightmare. There is a plethora of destinations. All roads lead somewhere. Marketing is present in all parts of modern society so we sometimes are not certain if the advertising campaign reflects the reality. The Internet Portal SERBIATOURISTGUIDE.COM –the Interactive Tourist Guide through Serbia, which represents an unavoidable and you will have the opportunity to find out a reliable help.

The site is informative and it contains all necessary details connected with events, destinations, hotels and accommodation. It was created in order to enable domestic visitors to get to know their country better and to help foreign tourists to discover something new and unseen. The Serbia Tourist Guide advertises only the best, representing Serbia in its genuine form as the country of amazing natural beauty, enormous life energy, with sincere and hospitable inhabitants. Those characteristics determine Serbia as an attractive tourist destination.

On the site are presented in detail the regions and places with great tourist potential as well as the best hotels and restaurants. The slogan “Discover the Charms of Serbia” defines its basic intention and purpose.

This year Serbia expects a great number of tourists. It is estimated that more than a million people will visit our country during the summer months traveling to festivals or searching for different, unusual and specific destinations.

Therefore, the right address for you is www.serbiatouristguide.com !

Discover the Charms of Serbia!

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eto poziva na putovanja. Kuda otputovati - pitanje je koje ume lepu i lepršavu ideju o putovanju da pretvori u pravu malu moru. Destinacija ima na pretek. Svi putevi nekuda vode. Marketing je toliko ovladao svim porama savremenog društva da ponekad nismo uvereni da li sadržaj reklamne kampanje odgovara realnom stanju. Internet portal SERBIATOURISTGUIDE. COM – Interaktivni turistički vodič kroz Srbiju, pojavljuje se u ovom slučaju kao neizostavna, a sami ćete se uveriti i pouzdana pomoć.

Sajt je informativan i sadrži neophodne detalje vezane za događaje, destinacije, hotele i smeštajne kapacitete. Nastao je zbog želje da se na ovim našim prostorima više putuje i saznaje, da domaći posetioci bolje upoznaju svoju zemlju, a strani turisti otkriju novo i neotkriveno.

Turistički vodič kroz Srbiju promoviše samo najbolje, predstavljajući Srbiju u njenom istinskom obliku - kao zemlju neodoljive prirodne lepote, ogromne životne energije, čiji su stanovnici toplih i iskrenih emocija.

Takvi atributi i određuju Srbiju kao atraktivnu turističku destinaciju.

Na sajtu su obiljem informacija predstavljene oblasti i mesta koja poseduju veliki turistički potencijal, kao i najbolji ugostiteljski objekti. Slogan ”Upoznaj lepote Srbije” definiše njegovu osnovnu nameru, ali i namenu.

Srbija ove godine očekuje veliki broj turista. Procena je i da će našu zemlju posetiti više od milion ljudi za vreme letnjih meseci putujući na festivale ili u potrazi za različitim, nesvakidašnjim, drugačijim odredištem. Vreme je da malo bolje upoznate Srbiju.

Zato prava adresa za Vas je www.serbiatouristguide.com!

Upoznaj lepote Srbije BELGUEST

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COUNTRY TOURISM IN SERBIA

TOUCH OF NATURE

Serbia is an ideal tourist destination for people who want a deep rest and for those who strive to feel nature with all six senses. When you awaken to singing birds and the flavour of real food, an experience that is impossible to describe, when you see the morning sun lift the moisture from sparkling grass, when you feel the river and the wind, you realise your place as part of nature’s scheme, and you become aware that you are in the right place.

T

he households engaged in country tourism are of various sorts; from the luxurious Green Loggias or Zeleni čardaci on Tara Mountain, to the modest but imaginative Grabovski suites on Jelica Mountain. The main trump cards of their offer are good and abundant meals, traditional hospitality and interesting local events, including the Guča Trumpet Festival (Sabor u Guči), Merry Slope (Veseli spust), Midžor Prayer (Molitva pod Midžorom), and the cabbage festival Kupusijada...

The Tourist Organisation of Serbia (TOS) recently renewed visits to households in Serbia. The impression is that a major step has been taken in Serbian rural tourism. In previous years, the idea took hold through one-off incentives from the state, an education and information campaign, and most importantly, the positive examples of neighbours who had already made their homes available to tourists. The tourist offer also differs from region to region. Vojvodina offers farms known locally as salaši, whereas in another part of Serbia they are called vajati and are often specialised.

SALAŠI – AN ENDLESS PLAIN Salaši are grouped mostly in the north of Bačka, around Palić and the Ludoško lakes. The entertainment on offer is related to activities in these famous

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picnic areas, and is distinguished gastronomy-wise by specialities from Bačka, wines made from vineyards grown in sand, as well as by the music of tamburitza players, who are definitely a must. Another group of these farm areas is located near the Čenej road. Aside from good food, the farms offer horseback riding; if you want to feel the enormity of the endless plain, the best thing to do is to saddle up and trot around Bačka.

For youngsters, there is an interesting Katai salaš, a Voćni salaš (fruit farm) at the bank of the Tisa River and Cvejin salaš near Begeč. In Banat, salaši are located around Carska Bara. You will also not want to miss the wine cellars in Središte and Gudurica. Fruška Gora Mountain is famous for its monasteries and vineyards; tourists who come for a day trip will find the wine cellars of Sremski Karlovci, Irig and Erdevik interesting, as well as the ethno-houses in Jazak, Maradik and Perkov and the salaš in Neradin, not far from the Grgeteg monastery.

VAJATI – A COMPLETE REST Numerous ethno-villages dot the map in Serbia, below the Danube and the Sava rivers, ranging from museums, like the one in Sirogojno, to ethnovillages in which people live and work. Notable villages include Tičije polje near Prijepolje, Topli Do

and Gostuša on Stara Planina, Podstijenje on Tara Mountain or the beer-halls in Rajac, Rogljev and Smedovac. Since director Kusturica built Drvengrad on Mećavnik Hill (locals also call it Emirates), small village settlements with vajati (rural households) have started to become popular tourist attractions.

One of the first vajats was erected in Vrhpolje, on the bank of the Drina River, for people who love the river. The owner cooperates with organisers of numerous boat sightseeing tours on the Drina River, so visitors can take a ride on the river at their own request. Vajats Gostoljublje in Mionica, near Kosjerić, are excellent locations for couples with small children. The proximity to Divčibare and Subjel is good for people who enjoy peace and long walks.

In Velika Plana, a settlement called Moravski konaci was erected with a beautiful central building, mill and church, while there is also a lake in the area. The settlement is near the motorway, and visitors who come for a coffee and break can be expected to stay a bit longer. For passing guests who travel on the Ibar main road, there is the danger of staying longer than planned in the Ključ raja (Key to Heaven) near Mionica, Učina Vodenica (Teacher’s Mill) near the Ljig Spa and Galetovo Sokače in Brđani, near Čačak. Two other settlements of that type are located near Guča, and are intended for guests who enjoy the sound of

trumpets, as well as deep sleep. The distinguishing trait of vajats is their great comfort in the middle of unblemished nature. Guests with high demands can choose the settlement Zeleni čardaci on Tara, near the hotel complex in Kaluđerske Bare, or the Jevtović property in Leušić. Villa Milica in Trudelj on Rudnik Mountain and Tri hrasta (Three Oak Trees) in the Takovo village of Klatičevo offer a high level of service (and an open-air pool). These two properties are ideal for smaller groups who will leave feeling completely rested. Not even the hosts will disturb guests, if the guests so choose.

BANKS, RIVERS AND MOUNTAINS Apart from Zlatibor, the regions of Rudnik and Takovo have done the most in terms of developing rural tourism. The favourites of Gruža are Ruža Gruže, in the village of Bare, and the Milošević household, in the village of Borač. Both households organise interesting picnics to Gruža, Rudnik and Borač karsts.

Ruža Gruže has a small horse farm, so part of its offer includes horseback-riding school and sightseeing on horses. In the Gruža region, several households on the lake banks are engaged in the tourism business.

This region is well known for preparing athletes, as one part of the lake is always protected from the wind. Renowned Serbian rower Nikola Stojić is often a guest at the lake.

The region of Zlatibor is synonymous for tourism in Serbia, including rural tourism. As Zlatibor (once Kraljeve Vode and later Partizanske Vode) has become a Mecca of top-class tourism, the rural part moved to Sirogojno, Gostilje, Mačkat... The new destination in this region is Jokino Vrelo, near Šljivovica, which now consists only of an active picnic ground, but vajats have slowly begun to rise around it. On the way to Zlatibor, don’t miss the village of Zlakus, which is known for pottery. Terzića Avlija (Terzić Yard), an ethno-household with a nice

museum exhibition, is located in this village. Apart from the yard and local potters, you will be attracted by the impressive arc of Potpećka Pećina cave. So if you decide to stay longer, you can spend the night in one of several houses that are engaged in tourism.

As some of them also have fish ponds, you can round up your visit with a good fish lunch. Zlatar, Golija and Javor are standard destinations in rural tourism, while the region of Prijepolje is making large strides in this regard.

Kamena Gora and Sopotnica already represent the pinnacle of rural tourism. Apart from this region’s pristine beauty, the area is also famous because of the wondrous Lim River, which is excellent for rafting. Capricious rapids, narrow gorges and numerous monasteries visible from a boat are reason enough to visit Polimlje. A cruise down river in every possible water-bound craft has become a regular part of the Serbian tourist offer. Aside from rafting on the Lim and several forms of sailing down the Drina River, the Merry Descent or Veseli spust down the Ibar River up to Kraljevo and Descent without Borders (Spust bez granica), which ends in Raška, are also interesting. Other marvellous experiences include river cruises on the Uvac, Morava, Tisa and Danube, etc...

Maybe the descent down the incredibly winding course of the Svrljiški Timok River is the most interesting of all, but adventurers in Eastern Serbia prefer the mountainous heights. This is why favourite tourist offers of this region include Kučajske Planine and Stara Planina, Vlasinsko Lake and Đerdap Lake.

Stara Planina is mentioned as a future ski centre, but it is equally interesting as reserve of pristine nature, an area with coloured meadows, intertwined with gorgeous canyons and garnished with fantastic waterfalls that plunge onto stones from a height of up to 80 metres. There are some villages that preserved their appearance from more than a century ago. Although the residents of these villages are cer-

tainly not young, tourism seems to get things moving a bit. Zavojsko Jezero and the villages around Visočica, on the Pirot side of the mountain, were full last year, and the situation on the Knjaževac side is similar. Kučajske Planine has been nominated as a national park candidate as its high parts are protected for their great beauty. The region is also home to the two biggest gems in Serbia’s monastic heritage, Manasija and Ravanica. A more picturesque part of Južni Kučaj is the village of Lisina, where the Veliki Buk waterfall is located. On the way to the waterfalls, you can find a good fish pond with restaurants, while just next to the waterfalls you will find a mill, restaurant and bungalow settlement.

This is a good starting point for a visit to Resavska Pećina cave and a stroll up to Beljanica Mountain.

From the northern slopes of Beljanica run the two most interesting springs in Serbia; the Mlava Spring and the Krupajsko Vrelo. Near the latter is a cosy household with a fish pond. Residents have made a nice pool which is filled with hot spring water from the nearby spring Krupajsko Vrelo. The Đerdap region is represented by Donji Milanovac and the mysterious Porečka and Šaška Rivers. In that part of its flow, the Danube River narrows to the size of a mighty brook. The constant battle of water and stone has created magnificent stone bridges, picturesque gorges and numerous caves. Local farmers produce charcoal, among other activities, and in recent years they have engaged in tourism. Especially interesting are Crnajka, Rudna Glava and Kapetan-Mišin Breg.

The south-eastern part of Serbia is represented with several houses near the Prohor Pčinjski monastery, and the whole course of the Pčinja River and its banks are among the most beautiful, as well as the most passive parts of Serbia.

Text and photos by

DRAGAN BOSNIĆ

BelGuest SUMMER 2008

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TOS PREPORUČUJE |

SEOSKI TURIZAM U SRBIJI

DODIR PRIRODE www.serbia-tourism.org www.serbia.travel/villages

D

omaćinstva koja se u Srbiji bave seoskim turizmom raznovrsna su, od luksuznih Zelenih čardaka na Tari, do skromnih ali maštovitih apartmana Grabovski na Jelici. Glavni aduti njihove ponude su dobra i obilna trpeza, tradicionalna ljubaznost domaćina i zanimljive lokalne manifestacije, kao što su to Sabor u Guči, Veseli spust, Molitva pod Midžorom, Kupusijada...

Nedavno je Turistička organizacija Srbije obnovila posetu domaćinstvima Srbije. Utisak je da je u seoskom turizmu Srbije napravljen veliki korak.

Bilo je tokom prethodnih godina bespovratnih podsticajnih sredstava države, edukacije stanovništva, ali su posebno važni dobri primeri komšija koji su već stekli redovne goste. Primetna je i prepoznatljiva ponuda regiona. U Vojvodini su to salaši, a u drugom delu Srbije vajati, često specijalizovane namene.

SALAŠI – BESKRAJ RAVNICE Salaši su grupisani uglavnom na severu Bačke, oko Palićkog i Ludoškog jezera. Ponuda im je povezana sa aktivnostima na tim poznatim izletištima, a gas-

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Srbija je idealna turistička destinacija za ljude koji stvarno žele da se odmore i da osete prirodu sa svih šest čula. Jer kad vas probudi poj ptica i miris prave hrane koja je neopisivo ukusna, kad vidite kako jutarnje sunce podiže rosu sa trave, kad opipate reku i vetar, shvatićete da ste biće prirode i da se nalazite na pravom mestu. tronomski je prepoznatljiva po bačkim specijalitetima, vinima sa peska, a sve to uz pratnju obaveznih tamburaša. Druga grupa salaša nalazi se pored Čenejskog puta. Pored dobre hrane, tu su i dobri konji, pa ako poželite da osetite beskraj ravnice, to je najbolje učiniti na konju ili u čezama. U Bačkoj su zanimljivi i Katai salaš, namenjen najmlađima, Voćni salaš na obali Tise i Cvejin salaš kod Begeča. U Banatu su salaši skupljeni oko Carske bare, a zanimljivi su vinski podrumi u Središtu i Gudurici. Fruška gora je poznata po manastirima i vinogradima. Za turiste koji dolaze na jedan dan zanimljivi su vinski podrumi u Sremskim Karlovcima, Irigu i Erdeviku, etno-kuće u Jazaku i Maradiku i Perkov salaš u Neradinu, nedaleko od manastira Grgeteg.

VAJATI – POTPUNI ODMOR U Srbiji ispod Dunava i Save postoje etno-sela – muzeji, kao ono u Sirogojnu, ali i etno-sela u kojima se živi i radi. Pomenimo Tičije polje kod Prijepolja, Topli Do i Gostušu na Staroj planini, Podstijenje na Tari ili pivnice na Rajcu, Rogljevu i Smedovcu. Otkada je režiser Kusturica na brdu

Mećavnik napravio Drvengrad (meštani ga nazivaju i Emirati), u Srbiji su počela da niču mala turistička naselja sa vajatima, koji su pretvoreni u zanimljive turističke objekte. Među prvima vajat je podignut na obali Drine u Vrhpolju, namenjen ljudima koji vole reku, a vlasnik dobro sarađuje sa organizatorima brojnih regata na Drini, tako da se posetioci mogu provozati rekom po svojoj želji. Vajati Gostoljublje u Mionici kod Kosjerića pogodni su za parove sa malom decom. Neposredna blizina Divčibara i Subjela prija i ljudima koji vole mir i duge šetnje. U Velikoj Plani podignuto je naselje Moravski konaci, sa lepim centralnim objektom, vodenicom i crkvom, dok je u blizini jezero sa pratećim sadržajima. Nalazi se u neposrednoj blizini auto-puta i može se očekivati da će posetioci koji svrate samo na kafu ostati i malo duže. Za prolazne goste, koji putuju Ibarskom magistralom, opasnost da se zadrže duže nego što su planirali vreba u Ključu raja kod Mionice, Učinoj vodenici u neposrednoj blizini banje Ljig i Galetovom sokačetu u Brđanima kod Čačka. Dva naselja toga tipa nalaze se u neposrednoj blizini Guče, za goste koji vole

pisak trube, ali i miran san. Vajati su prepoznatljivi po izuzetnom komforu usred skoro netaknute prirode. Gosti sa visokim prohtevima mogu da izaberu naselje Zeleni čardaci na Tari, u neposrednoj blizini hotelskog kompleksa na Kaluđerskim barama, ili imanje Jevtovića u Leušiću. Visok nivo usluga (sa otvorenim bazenom) nude vila Milica u Trudelju na Rudniku i Tri hrasta u takovskom selu Klatičevo. Ta dva imanja su idealna za manje grupe koje očekuju potpun odmor, neometani čak i od domaćina, ukoliko to žele.

OBALAMA, REKAMA I PLANINAMA Rudnički i takovski kraj su, uz Zlatiborce, najviše učinili na razvoju seoskog turizma. Favoriti Gruže su Ruža Gruže, u selu Bare, i domaćinstvo Milošević, u selu Borač. Oba domaćinstva organizuju zanimljive izlete po Gruži, Rudniku i Boračkom kršu. Ruža Gruže poseduje malu ergelu, pa je deo ponude škola jahanja, a potom i izleti na konjima. U gružanskom kraju turizmom se bavi nekoliko domaćinstava na obali jezera, koje je veoma pogodno za pripreme sportista, jer je uvek jedan deo jezera zaštićen od vetra. Čest gost na tom jezeru je i naš poznati veslač Nikola Stojić. Zlatiborski kraj je sinonim za turizam u Srbiji, pa i onaj ruralni. Kako je samo mesto Zlatibor (nekad Kraljeve, pa Partizanske vode) postalo Meka vrhunskog turizma, ruralni deo se preselio u Sirogojno, Gostilje, Mačkat... Nova destinacija toga kraja je i Jokino vrelo kod Šljivovice, koja je trenutno samo atraktivno izletište, ali i oko njega polako niču vajati. Na putu ka Zlatiboru svakako svratite u selo Zlakusu, poznato po grnčariji. U selu se nalazi Terzića avlija, etno-domaćinstvo sa lepom muze-

jskom postavkom. Pored avlije i lokalnih grnčara, pogled privlači impresivni svod Potpećke pećine, pa ako se tu duže zadržite, možete noćiti u jednoj od nekoliko kuća koje se bave turizmom. Kako neke od njih imaju i ribnjake, posetu možete zaokružiti i dobrim ručkom. Zlatar, Golija i Javor standardne su destinacije seoskog turizma, a krupnim koracima im se približava i prijepoljski kraj. Kamena Gora i Sopotnica mesta su koja će uskoro biti u vrhu ruralnog turizma. Pored atraktivne i nedirnute prirode, taj kraj krasi i reka Lim, koja je najpogodnija za rafting. Ćudljivi brzaci, uzane klisure i mnogobrojni manastiri, koji se mogu videti i iz čamca, razlog su sve veće posete Polimlju. Spust niz reku u svim mogućim plovilima postao je sastavni deo turističke ponude Srbije. Pored raftinga na Limu i nekoliko oblika plovidbe niz Drinu, zanimljiv je i Veseli spust niz Ibar do Kraljeva i Spust bez granica do Raške, ali i plovidba Uvcem, Moravom, Tisom, Dunavom... Možda bi spust niz neverovatno krivudav tok Svrljiškog Timoka bio najzanimljiviji od svih pomenutih, ali avanturisti istočne Srbije više vole planinske visove. Zato su turistički favoriti toga kraja Kučajske planine i Stara planina, Vlasinsko i Đerdapsko jezero. Stara planina se pominje kao budući skijaški centar, ali je podjednako zanimljiva i kao rezervat nedirnute prirode, predeo našaran koloritnim livadama, ispresecan neviđenim kanjonima i ukrašen fantastičnim vodopadima, koji se obrušavaju niz stene visoke i do osamdeset metara.

Pojedina sela sačuvala su svoj izgled od pre sto i više godina. Istina je da i stanovništvo nije mnogo mlađe, ali turizam čini da se i tu stvari polako menjaju. Zavojsko jezero i sela pored Visočice na

pirotskoj strani planine prošle su godine bila popunjena, a slično je i na knjaževačkoj strani. Kučajske planine su nominovane za nacionalni park, jer su njihovi veliki delovi zaštićeni zbog izuzetne lepote, a tu se nalaze i dva najveća dragulja srpskog manastirskog nasleđa Manasija i Ravanica. Slikovitiji deo Južnog Kučaja jeste selo Lisina, u čijem je ataru vodopad Veliki buk. Na putu do vodopada smešten je pozamašan ribnjak, sa restoranom, a pored samog vodopada su vodenica, restoran i bungalovsko naselje. To je dobra polazna tačka za posetu Resavskoj pećini i uspon na planinu Beljanicu. Sa severnih padina Beljanice putuju dva najzanimljivija izvora u Srbiji. Jedan je vrelo Mlave, a drugi Krupajsko vrelo. Pored tog drugog svilo se prijatno domaćinstvo sa ribnjakom. Na imanju je napravljen lep bazen, koji se puni toplom vodom iz izvora u neposrednoj blizini studenog Krupajskog vrela. Đerdapsku regiju predstavljaju Donji Milanovac i tajnovita Porečka, odnosno Šaška reka. Tu se Dunav raširi poput mora, pa ga moćne stene suze do veličine potoka. Večita borba vode i kamena je na tom potezu stvorila neverovatne kamene mostove, slikovite klisure i bezbrojne pećine. Ljudi se tu bave poljoprivredom, prave vrhunski bukov ćumur, a u novije vreme i turizmom. Posebno se ističu Crnajka, Rudna glava i Kapetan-Mišin breg.

Jugoistočni deo Srbije predstavljen je sa nekoliko kuća u neposrednoj blizini manastira Prohor pčinjski, a ceo tok Pčinje i njegova obala među najlepšim su, ali i najpasivnijim krajevima Srbije.

Tekst i fotografije

DRAGAN BOSNIĆ

BelGuest SUMMER 2008

79

A TRIP TO MEDIEVAL MONASTERY OF MILEŠEVA

WHITE ANGEL IN THE HOME

OF FIRST SERBIAN SAINT

“Nothing that Giotto created can be compared to the beauty of the Angel from the Serbian Royal Endowment, the monastery of Mileševa”, wrote the famous British archaeologist Arthur Evans in palpable excitement. Several decades later, in 1962, the first satellite signal was beamed into space from the Earth, together with photographs of man conquering the Moon, the Chinese Wall, and a picture of the White Angel was sent as well because it was felt that if other rational beings are “out there” somewhere, they will understand the message of love and understanding.

T

he medieval monastery of Mileševa is located some five kilometres from Prijepolje, upstream from the mouth of the Mileševa and Lim rivers. The seat of the Mileševa diocese of the Serbian Orthodox Church is famous worldwide for its fresco of the White Angel, as well as the initial resting place of the first Serbian saint, archbishop and educator, Saint Sava, where his remains rested from 358 AD until his bones were burnt in the Belgrade area of Vračar. BelGuest takes you to the monastery whose spiritual archbishop Nektarije (Janković) says that if the history of Mileševa could be presented in a movie, it would be full of Serbian kings and archbishops, European travellers and various conquerors.

Mileševa was an endowment of King Vladislav, the middle son of King Stefan the First Crowned.

He built the temple of Christ’s Ascension before he took power from his older brother Radoslav. The main church was built from 1218 to 1228 as a onedome construction with a three-part altar area and dome, which was the stylistic tradition of the Raška school of architecture. Art historians mostly agree that the outer porch, with the chapels of Saint George and Saint Dimitrios, was built between 1228 and 1234, after Saint Sava decided he would rest in Mileševa.

The original biography from the 13th century was done by the best masters of Epirus, most probably from Thessaloniki. Those were frescoes of “exquisite beauty” which in the naos (or the main body) of the church have a background of golden leaves, across which cubes were painted to resemble a mosaic.

The first family portrait of the Nemanjić royal family: from the founder, the Great Prince Stefan Nemanja, who is represented as monk Simeon, and Saint Sava, to the kings, Stefan the First Crowned, Radoslav and Vladislav, and the White Angel of Mileševa at Christ’s tomb, are considered masterpieces of Serbian and European art.

Apart from their first-class quality, the Mileševa wall paintings are famous for the unusual structure of the scenes in the NAOS. Attention is drawn to a

three-and-a-half metre tall portrait of Saint Stefan, the patron of the Nemanjić royal house. Images of the Russian saints Boris and Gljeb, shown in Serbia at Mileševa for the first and only time, are the merit of Saint Sava, creator of the Mileševa fresco content. Most of the frescoes from the 16th century were painted by the famous fresco painter from Peć, Longin. The biography was later reconstructed again.

SAINT SAVA’S LAURA Second-ranked among Serbian shrines, (Studenica being ahead of it), Mileševa was for a long period the spiritual, cultural and economic centre of Serbia, thanks to Saint Sava. The founder of the Serbian church died in Trnovo (Bulgaria) on his return to Serbia from his second trip to the Holy Land. He was buried in the Trnovo church of Forty Martyrs, and three years later, after difficult negotiations with the Bulgarian emperor Arsen, King Vladislav managed to transfer his uncle’s body to the Mileševa monastery in 1237.

The grave of Saint Sava became a place of pilgrimage, as the cult surrounding him had already developed at the time of his life: “a sophisticated spiritual aristocrat, dedicated intellectual, Slav and Byzantine, son of a ruler and the endower of Holy Mountain’s spiritual elitism, the first Serbian archbishop to meet all the requests at that time of the renewed Byzantine Empire, as would be expected from a saint.” That’s why Bosnian ban Tvrtko Kotromanić I chose Mileševa in 1377 as the place where he would be crowned king of Serbia and Bosnia, while the ruler of Zahumlje, Stjepan Vukčić Kosača, proclaimed himself “Herzeg of Saint Sava” there in 1466, after which the whole region of Zahumlje vas named Herzegovina.

“Mileševa is mentioned in the Middle Ages as a monastery, a big church and laura of Saint Sava.

According to documents, the monastery housed 400 monks in the first half of the 16th century, and was comprised of eight churches, a monastery farming area called “metoh”, hermitages,

large properties at Zlatar Mountain from where, according to folk legend, milk arrived to Mileševa in wooden pipes, the so-called milk pipeline. The monastery was the biggest exporter of livestock to the Dubrovnik Republic, revenues from which it used to purchase machines for printing books in Venice,” Archbishop Nektarije retells.

Although one of the most important monasteries, Mileševa is also among the most destroyed and burnt-down shrines. It was demolished several times from the 15th-18th centuries, when it was completely deserted. It was reconstructed thanks to Prince Mihailo Obrenović, who gave 100 ducats towards that end in 1863.

The iconostases were demolished during various robberies. The present ones were painted by

SAINT SAVA

The oldest and what is believed to be the most authentic portrait of Saint Sava is in Mileševa.

It was painted during his lifetime. Saint Sava is presented in the formal frontal position, with all the signature marks of an archbishop. He holds the Gospel in his left hand, and is blessing with his right hand. Historians say that at the time of Mileševa’s construction, he was “a mature man, of ascetic appearance, but strong.” The cult of Saint Sava was already created during his lifetime because, his merits were immeasurable, according another Serbian saint. He is the “spiritual man of the renaissance of the Serbian people, their wisest educator and most important statesman, the first to establish monastic life in Serbia, the courtliest builder of the Serbian national culture, the first Serbian writer and before the throne of the Creator, the greatest prayer book for the Serbian people.”

Near the Mileševac monastery are Mirth bearers – the caves of Saint Sava. The central one is a well – Sava’s Waters (Savine Vode), where, according to legend, only those who have not sinned a lot may come.

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vestals from the Gradac monastery. The rich treasury of Mileševa —which grew in wealth from gifts it received from Serbian, Russian and Orthodox rulers as well as from noblemen — suffered the same fate as the monastery. Many of the preserved objects are in other monasteries and in the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church.

Mileševa also has a new monastery library, and works are under way to prepare a new museum and treasury. Because the monastery had a writing school in the 16th century, its library preserves a number of valuable books, including the first Serbian printed book – Oktoih from Cetinje in 1494, Triod from 1563, the Belgrade Gospel from 1552.

Over 700 books were rewritten at Mileševa, and later, the monastery was the location of the first printing house. The Sokolović brothers are believed to have been students of the monastery school; one of them later became the Great Vizier MehmedPaša Sokolović, while the other became Serbian Patriarch Makarije, who restored the Patriarchate of Peć.

MIRACULOUS CRYSTAL APPLE The treasury includes several valuable icons and objects found in Sava’s dining room: stone tables, floors, vessels, vases, porcelain cutlery made in Venice and Dubrovnik. It also preserves parts of the sarcophagus that held the relics of Saint Sava, the wooden cane Saint Sava used every day, which was returned to Mileševa last year. At the end of the 16th century, The White Angel, or the Angel of the resurrection, is part of the composition Myrrh Bearers on Christ’s grave. It is broadly considered the most famous fresco in Serbian lands, as well as one of the most beautiful representations of an angel ever made.

monk Visarion coated it in silver and engraved it with “the hymn to Saint Sava”. A crystal apple rests on the peak of the cane, which is believed to have healing powers. The cane is today a relic. It is so popular that we had to queue in front of the Mileševa church in order to take a photo of it for BelGuest. Although it was long believed to be lost, the left hand of Saint Sava is in Mileševa as of recently and is used for osculating. It was moved for several centuries from Polimlje to Pakrac, the Patriarchate of Peć and back.

The exonarthex preserves the stone lid of the fountain and the upper part of the sarcophagus of King Vladislav, made of pink marble, a marble lion, part of the original sculpture, and a cannon

A LOOK IN THE EYE

The Angel beautifully shaped, wearing the white gown, is sitting on the stone and showing to the women Myrrh bearers the place of Christ’s resurrection, His empty tomb. From anywhere in the temple and regardless of the angle, the Angel is looking at the visitors right in the eye. “When you stand before the fresco, you have the impression that it floats and leaves the impression on every viewer of extraterrestrial beauty. It is the landmark of fine art and Mileševa’s and the whole of Serbia’s identity card,” says archimandrite Nektarije. He stressed that the White Angel from the composition of Myrrh bearers at Christ’s grave is the only fresco of Mileševa that has not been damaged but preserved almost in its original beauty although the church was without roof for over 130 years.

ball that was used to destroy the church. There are two monuments from the early Christian period in the monastery churchyard – one with an inscription of Bishop Stefan from the 6th century and another that probably originates from the nearby archaeological site of Kolovrat. Today’s Mileševa diocese is the successor to the Dabar episcopate, which was founded by Saint Sava in the early 13th century. It was reconstructed in 1992, with its seat in the Mileševa monastery, which has already started preparations to mark its 800th anniversary in 2018. “What Christ’s grave in Jerusalem is to all Christians, the grave of Saint Sava should be to all Serbs,” says Bishop Filaret of Mileševa.

Aware that the “order” in the world has changed since the times of Saint Sava, because the “people once only followed the church, and now the time has come for the church to follow the people,” and that “the big field of the Lord is uncultivated”, Bishop Filaret is trying to direct the contemporary mission of Mileševa there. The church and part of the dormitory were reconstructed, organised religious tourism has been initiated, a Mileševa church radio station is in the planning, new dormitories will be built, cableways to the Myrrh bearers of Saint Sava and much more. Today Mileševa is a female convent. Ten vestals live in the monastery, and despite the many pilgrims who come to visit, they insist on not mixing with the rest of the world.

JELENA TASIĆ photographs: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ Mileševa also houses the oldest, and it is believed, the most authentic portrait of St. Sava painted during his lifetime.

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BELI ANĐEO U DOMU

PRVOG SRPSKOG SVETITELJA „Ništa što je Đoto stvorio ne može se porediti sa lepotom Anđela iz srpske kraljevske zadužbine manastira Mileševe“, uzbuđeno je zapisao čuveni britanski arheolog ser Artur Evans. Više decenija kasnije, kad je 1962. godine prvi satelitski signal s dostignućima Zemljana poslat iz Evrope u vasionu, zajedno s fotografijama čovekovog osvajanja Meseca i Kineskog zida, emitovana je i slika Belog anđela, jer se smatralo da će, ukoliko u kosmosu postoje i druga razumna bića, shvatiti njegovu poruku ljubavi i razumevanja.

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rednjovekovni manastir Mileševa nalazi se na petom kilometru od Prijepolja, uzvodno od ušća reke Mileševke u Lim. Sedište istoimene eparhije Srpske pravoslavne crkve, širom sveta poznat je po freski Beli anđeo i kao mesto na kome je 358 godina, do spaljivanja njegovih moštiju na beogradskom Vračaru, počivao prvi srpskih svetitelj, arhiepiskop i prosvetitelj Sava.

BelGuest vas vodi u manastir, čiji duhovnik arhimandrit Nektarije (Janković) kaže da kad bi se prošlost Mileševe mogla prikazati na filmskom platnu, na njemu bi se do u beskraj smenjivali srpski kraljevi i arhiepiskopi, evropski putopisci i razni osvajači.

Mileševa je zadužbina kralja Vladislava, srednjeg od tri sina kralja Stefana Prvovenčanog. On je hram

Vaznesenja Hristovog sagradio pre preuzimanja vlasti od starijeg brata Radoslava. Glavna crkva zidana je od 1218. do 1228, kao jednobrodna građevina sa trodelnim oltarskim prostorom i kubetom, u tradiciji raške graditeljske škole. Među istoričarima umetnosti preovlađuje mišljenje da je spoljna priprata sa kapelama svetih Đorđa i Dimitrija sagrađena između 1228. i 1234, posle

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odluke svetog Save da počiva u Mileševi.

Prvobitni živopis iz 13. veka radili su najbolji epirski majstori, verovatno iz Soluna. Reč je o freskama izvanredne lepote, koje u naosu crkve imaju pozadinu od zlatnih listića, preko koje su iscrtane kockice što podražavaju mozaik. Prvi porodični portret Nemanjića: od rodonačelnika velikog

SVETI SAVA

U Mileševi se nalazi najstariji i, kako se veruje, najautentičniji portret svetog Save, slikan za njegova života. Prikazan je u svečanom frontalnom stavu, sa svim oznakama arhiepiskopskog dostojanstva.

U levoj ruci drži Jevanđelje, a desnom blagosilja.

Istoričari kazuju da je on u vreme gradnje Mileševe bio „zreo čovek, asketskog izgleda, ali pun snage“.

Kult svetog Save nastao je još za njegova života, jer su, prema rečima jednog drugog srpskog svetitelja, njegove zasluge nemerljive - on je „duhovni preporoditelj srpskog naroda, osnivač narodne crkve, najumniji prosvetitelj, najveći državotvorac, prvi uređivač monaškog života kod nas, najotmeniji izgrađivač srpske narodne kulture, prvi srpski književnik i pred prestolom Tvorca najveći molitvenik za srpski narod“.

U blizini Mileševca nalaze se isposnice – pećine svetog Save. U centralnoj isposnici nalazi se izvor – Savine vode, koji, prema predanju, mogu da nađu samo oni koji nisu mnogo grešni.

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župana Stefana Nemanje, koji je prikazan kao monah Simeon, i svetog Save do kraljeva Stefana Prvovenčanog, Radoslava i Vladislava, te mileševski Beli anđeo na Hristovom grobu smatraju se remekdelima srpske i evropske umetnosti.

Pored prvorazrednog kvaliteta, mileševsko zidno slikarstvo poznato je i po neuobičajenom rasporedu scena u naosu. Pažnju privlači više od tri i po metra visok portret svetog prvomučenika arhiđakona Stefana, zaštitnika vladarske kuće Nemanjića, i prikazi ruskih svetitelja i prvomučenika Borisa i Gljeba, koji su u Mileševi prvi i jedini put prikazani u Srbiji, zašta se zasluga pripisuje svetom Savi, kao tvorcu mileševskog programa. Većinu fresaka iz 16. veka oslikao je čuveni pećki zograf Longin, a vek kasnije živopis je ponovo obnovljen.

LAVRA SVETOG SAVE Druga po rangu među srpskim svetinjama, ispred nje je samo Studenica, Mileševa je,

zahvaljujući svetom Savi, dugo bila duhovni, kulturni i ekonomski centar. Sveti Sava se upokojio u Trnovu (Bugarska), vraćajući se u Srbiju sa svog drugog putovanja po Svetoj zemlji. Sahranjen je u trnovskoj crkvi Četrdeset mučenika, a tri godine kasnije, posle teških pregovora sa svojim tastom bugarskim carem Arsenom, kralj Vladislav 1237. prenosi stričeve mošti u manastir Mileševu.

Grob svetog Save postaje mesto hodočašća, jer je taj kult nastao još tokom njegovog života: „sofisticiran duhovni aristokrata, prosvećeni intelektualac, Slovenovizantinac, sin vladara i baštinik svetogorskog duhovnog elitizma, prvi srpski arhiepiskop ispunjavao je sve zahteve koje je doba obnovljenog Vizantijskog carstva očekivalo od svetitelja“. Zato je bosanski ban Tvrtko Prvi Kotromanić odabrao Mileševu da se 1377. u njoj kruniše za kralja Srbije i Bosne, a zahumski vladar Stjepan Vukčić Kosača tu se 1466. proglasio za hercega od svetog Save,

posle čega je cela oblast Zahumlja nazvana Hercegovinom.

– Mileševa se u srednjem veku pominje kao manastir, velika crkva i lavra svetog Save. Prema zapisima, u prvoj polovini 16. veka manastir je imao 400 monaha, pri njemu je bilo osam crkava, imao je metohe, isposnice, velika imanja na Zlataru, odakle je, kako kaže narodno predanje, mleko u Mileševu doticalo u drvenim cevima – mlekovodom. Manastir je bio najveći izvoznik stoke u Dubrovačku republiku i od tih prihoda kupio mašine za štampanje knjiga u Veneciji – priča arhimandrit Nektarije.

Iako jedan od najznačajnih, Mileševa je istovremeno i jedan od najviše rušenih i paljenih manastira. Razarana je više puta od 15. do 18. veka, kada je potpuno zapustela. Obnovljena je zaslugom kneza Mihaila Obrenovića, koji je za tu svrhu 1863. godine dao prilog od 100 dukata.

U raznim poharama stradali su i ikonostasi.

Sadašnji su oslikale monahinje iz manastira Gradac.

Sudbinu Mileševe delila je i prebogata mileševska riznica, jer su manastir darivali ne samo srpski nego i ruski i drugi pravoslavni vladari i plemići. Mnogi od sačuvanih predmeta nalaze se u drugim manastirima i Muzeju Srpske pravoslavne crkve.

U Mileševi, gde se uveliko radi na pripremi novog muzeja i riznice, a postoji i nova manastirska biblioteka, čuva se više vrednih knjiga: prva štampana u Srba – Oktoih sa Cetinja iz 1494, Triod iz 1563, Beogradsko jevanđelje iz 1552. godine. U manastiru je u 16. veku postojala prepisivačka škola, u kojoj je prepisano više od 700 knjiga, te prva štamparija. Veruje se da su đaci manastirske škole bila i braća Sokolović, potonji veliki vezir Mehmedpaša Sokolović i patrijarh srpski Makarije, koji je obnovio Pećku patrijaršiju.

POGLED U OČI

Anđeo prelepog lika, obučen u beli hiton, sedi na kamenu i ženama mironosicama rukom pokazuje mesto Hristovog vaskrsnuća. Njegov prazan grob.

S bilo kog mesta u hramu i bez obzira na ugao posmatranja, Anđeo posetioce gleda pravo u oči. „Kad stanete pred fresku, imate utisak da on lebdi i na svakog posmatrača ostavlja utisak nezemaljske lepote. On je zaštitni znak slikarske umetnosti i lična karta Mileševe i cele Srbije“, kaže arhimandrit Nektarije. On ističe da je Beli anđeo sa kompozicije Mironosice na Hristovom grobu jedina mileševska freska koja nije oštećena, nego je sačuvana u gotovo prvobitnoj lepoti iako je crkva više od 130 godina bila bez krova.

ČUDOTVORNA KRISTALNA JABUKA Riznica poseduje više vrednih ikona i predmeta koji su pronađeni u nekadašnjoj Savinoj trpezariji: kameni stolovi, podovi, posude, ćupovi i porcelansko posuđe rađeno u Veneciji i Dubrovniku. U njoj se čuvaju delovi sarkofaga u kome je počivao sveti Sava, te njegov štap, koji je prošle godine vraćen u Mileševu. Reč je o drvenom štapu koji je sveti Sava svakodnevno koristio. On je ušao u narodno predanje i u mnogobrojne priče o prvom srpskom svetitelju. Krajem 16. veka monah Visarion ga je optočio srebrom i na njemu ugravirao tropar svetom Savi. Na vrhu štapa ugrađena je kristalna jabuka, za koju se u narodu veruje da ima isceliteljske moći. Štap je danas postao relikvija, na čije se celivanje, dok je sniman za BelGuest, čekalo u redu ispred mileševske crkve.

Iako se dugo verovalo da je izgubljena, leva ruka svetog Save odnedavno je u Mileševi i na liturgiji se iznosi na celivanje. Više vekova prenošena je od Polimlja do Pakraca, Pećke patrijaršije i natrag.

U spoljnoj priprati crkve čuvaju se kameni poklopac krstionice i gornji deo sarkofaga kralja Vladislava od ružičastog mermera, mermerni lav, deo prvobitne plastike, topovska đulad kojima je crkva rušena. U manastirskoj porti nalaze se dva ranohrišćanska spomenika – jedan sa natpisom

episkopa Stefana iz šestog veka i drugi koji je najverovatnije dospeo sa obližnjeg arheološkog lokaliteta Kolovrata.

Današnja Mileševska eprahija naslednica je Dabarske episkopije, koju je sveti Sava osnovao početkom 13. veka. Obnovljena je 1992, sa sedištem u manastiru Mileševa, koji je već započeo pripreme za obeležavanje osam vekova postojanja 2018. godine. „Ono što je Hristov grob u Jerusalimu, za sve hrišćane, to bi grob svetog Save trebalo da bude za sve Srbe“, kaže sadašnji episkop mileševski Filaret.

Svestan da se od svetog Save „poredak“ u svetu promenio, jer je „nekad narod išao za crkvom, a sad je došlo vreme da crkva ide za narodom“ i da je „velika njiva Gospodnja neobrađena“, vladika Filaret i savremenu misiju Mileševe usmerava tim putem. Obnovljeni su crkva i deo konaka, začet je pelcer organizovanog verskog turizma, planira se otvaranje crkvenog radija Mileševa, izgradnja novih konaka, žičare do isposnica svetog Save i još mnogo toga. Mileševa je sada ženski manastir. U njemu živi desetak monahinja, koje, uprkos velikoj poseti hodočasnika, insistiraju na nemešanju sa svetom.

JELENA TASIĆ fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

Trajan’s table

Viminacium

EXCURSIONS WITH THE AQUA LINE HYDROPLANE FERRY

FLYING CRUISE After almost two decades, a hydroplane ferry cruises along Belgrade rivers. The treasures and noble attraction of cultural heritage and the beautiful landscapes, hotels, restaurants and inns along the Danube are included in a unique and exciting tourist offer; gliding on a super fast river cruiser that glides above the water.

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n a pleasant, sunny and breezy June day, from the Belgrade dock on the Sava River, on the landing beneath the Promaja restaurant, the Maslačak hydroplane ferry anchored to board its first guests. Today it will take its passengers to the ancient city of Viminacium, once the capital of the Roman province Moeasia Superior.

Maslačak can host 50 passengers, it is comfortable, the hostesses give you a welcome drink and announce a cocktail during the cruise. Captain Cile gives us the main information on the ferry, its cruising speed, places where he will slow down so that passengers can take good photos. We set off on the trip, the ferry reaches its full speed within a minute or two, we are going 70 kilometres per hour, the landscapes pass our sides, everyone is enchanted with the experience of the flying cruise. In only one hour and twenty minutes we arrive at the landing place in the vicinity of Viminacium, where a coach awaits us to take us to the site. Everything is perfectly organised; the guide service, visits of the most important findings, a break in the cafeteria near the mausoleum – the main tourist attraction of this big ancient city. Time seems to fly, just like the hydroplane ferry when in movement.

On the return trip, the captain from time to time takes us to estuaries on the Danube River, so that our cruise upstream is as interesting and different

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from the previous one, on the way the river. After Golubac Fortress, here. Upon our return to Belgrade, at INFO the wide waters of the Danube the very confluence of the Sava and AQUA LINE enter the gorge, singular in all the Danube rivers, the boat enters YU Business Center of Europe in terms of its beauty. the port with great grandeur, like Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 10i, The high cliffs hide the view of a main heroine entering the stage, office VP 59 the Trajan Plate (Tabula Traiana), waving to the audience on the main- Phone: 011 311 4225, which can be seen only from land while the passengers on the e-mail: aqualine01@ptt.yu the water. On the Romanian boat stand thrilled. www.argonaut.co.yu side, you will see an impressive Apart from the visit to Viminacium, image, cut in rock, of the Roman Aqua Line also organises a one-day excursion ruler Decius. The famous prehistoric site of Lepenski called Gibraltar on the Danube, which includes a Vir, one of the oldest in Europe, is located in the visit to the Petrovaradin Fortress and the Baroque gorge. town of Sremski Karlovci, as well as an attractive The second day starts with a visit to the pilcruise to Ðerdap. lars of the Trajan Bridge, which was one of the most impressive structures of its time. A visit is CRUISING TO THE IRON GATE also planned to the picturesque town at the exit The most attractive programme offered by Aqua of the gorge – Donji Milanovac. The afternoon Line is a cruise voyage to Djerdap, Danube’s gorge programme is reserved for visiting tourist sites, of wondrous and breathtaking beauty. Within the which were only glimpsed while cruising downfirst two hours of cruising, you will see the beau- stream: Lepenski Vir, the Smederevo Fortress and tiful sights of the Belgrade Fortress, the White the archeological site of Vinča. The two-day cruise Rock, dramatic hillside landscapes, fruit trees and on Aqua Line encapsulates Serbia’s most valuable vineyards in the area of Grocka and the largest cultural heritage, which is as amazing as the draSerbian fortress in Smederevo, the brief medieval matic sights created by Europe’s biggest gorge. capital of Serbia.

Then, there is a break at Silver Lake, and afterBELGUEST wards cruising along the most exciting part of photographs: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

Belgrade shoreline

I Z L E T I

The art of Lepenski Vir

H I D R O G L I S E R O M

A Q U A

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LETEĆA PLOVIDBA Posle gotovo dve decenije, hidrogliser ponovo plovi našim rekama. Vredno i atraktivno kulturno nasleđe, prirodne lepote i raznovrsni ugostiteljski objekti na obalama duž Dunava, povezani su u turističku ponudu u kojoj je draž sama po sebi vožnja atraktivnim i najbržim vodenim prevoznim sredstvom – hidrogliserom.

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unski, prijatan, sunčan i vetrovit dan, sa Beogradskog pristaništa na Savi, na pristanu ispod restorana Promaja, ukotvio se hidrogliser Maslačak da bi primio svoje prve goste.

Danas se plovi do Viminacijuma, antičkog grada, nekadašnjeg glavnog središta rimske provincije Gornje Mezije. Maslačak ima mesta za pedesetak putnika, u brodu je udobno, hostesa nam služi piće dobrodošlice i najavljuje koktel okrepljenja u toku vožnje. Kapetan Cile nam predočava osnovne podatke o brodu, o brzini kojom ćemo ploviti, mestima na kojima će usporiti da bismo napravili što bolje fotografije. Krećemo, za minut-dva brod razvija punu brzinu, plovimo sedamdeset kilometara na sat, predeli brzo promiču, svi su opčinjeni doživljajem leteće plovidbe. Za samo sat i dvadesetak minuta stižemo na pristan u blizini Viminacijuma, gde nas čeka autobus koji vozi do lokaliteta. Sve je savršeno organizovano, vodička služba, obilazak važnih iskopina, predah u kafeu pored Mauzoleja, glavne turističke atrakcije

ovog velikog antičkog grada. Vreme leti, baš kao i hidrogliser u pokretu. U povratku kapetan povremeno skreće u rukavce Dunava kako bi nam vožnja uzvodno bila podjednako zanimljiva i različita od prethodne. Na povratku u Beograd, na samom ušću Save u Dunav brod u velikom luku ulazi u pristanište, kao glavna junakinja na pozornicu, uz mahanje publike sa kopna i oduševljenje putnika na brodu.

Pored izleta do Viminacijuma, Aqua Line organizuje i jednodnevni izlet sa nazivom Gibraltar na Dunavu, koji obuhvata posetu Petrovaradinskoj tvrđavi i baroknom gradiću Sremski Karlovci i jedno izuzetno atraktivno krstarenje do Đerdapa.

PLOVIDBA DO GVOZDENIH VRATA Najatraktivniji program Aqua Line je dvodnevno krstarenje do Đerdapa, klisure Dunava čudesne i uzbudljive lepote. U prva dva sata plovidbe smenjuju se lepi pogledi, najpre na Beogradsku tvrđavu, Belu stenu, arheološki lokalitet Vinča, brežuljkaste

predele pod zasadima voća i vinograda u ataru Grocke, pogled na najveću srednjovekovnu srpsku tvrđavu u Smederevu.

Sledi odmor na Srebrnom jezeru, a potom plovidba najuzbudljivijim delom reke. Posle Golubačke tvrđave, prostrane vode Dunava ulaze u tesnac jedinstven po svojoj lepoti. Nepristupačne litice skrivaju od pogleda Trajanovu tablu, koja se može videti samo sa vode. Sa rumunske strane obale zadivljuje lik vladara Dekabela isklesan u steni.

U klisuri se nalazi i poznati praistorijski lokalitet Lepenski vir.

Drugi dan počinje obilaskom stubova Trajanovog mosta, u svoje doba jedne od najimpresivnijih građevina. U planu plovidbe je pristajanje uz obalu pitoresknog gradića na izlazu iz klisure - Donjeg Milanovca. Popodnevni program rezervisan je za obilazak turističkih atrakcija koje su plovidbom nizvodno samo dotaknute pogledom, a to su: Lepenski vir, Smederevska tvrđava i arheološko nalazište Vinča. Dvodnevno putovanje Aqua Lineom sažima naše najvrednije kulturno nasleđe koje je podjednako zadivljujuće kao i čudesna priroda najveće evropske klisure.

BELGUEST fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

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VILLA “LAGO”

AN INVITATON TO A GENUINE HEDONISM

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ocated close to Lake Palic and ensconced under the protective armour of century-old foliage, the villa seems as if it has been there forever. Villa Lago – created from the interplay of history and tradition, yet covered under a veil of modern architecture (its interior and exterior were created according to world-class standards) – is waiting to be discovered and loved by you, enabling you to experience moments you will always remember and for which you will return.

The spacious terrace at the entrance, the bar, hydro-massage swimming pool and a separate parking lot are only some of the conveniences Villa Lago offers guests. A stay at the villa, located very close to Lake Palic, will allow you to enjoy natural beauty, while contemporary suites equipped with modern gadgetry will make your stay complete. Each room has an air conditioner, cable television, a mini-bar, and guests may use the Internet free of charge.

The suites have shower-bathtubs, video and audio equipment and kitchenettes, while the suites have been created according to the open space principle.

A jacuzzi, bar, hydro-massage shower, complete audio-video equipment and ambient illumination will make your stay unforgettable.

Our room service is at your disposal around-theclock. With the dance of lanterns and shadows, an open terrace will offer you tranquility in the evening.

During this season, our offer will be made complete with the addition of a spa centre that will include a hydro-massage swimming pool, massage, Turkish bath and IC booth. Our offer will be enriched with a wide range of treatments for the face and body.

Be a guest of Villa Largo!

Its charm, together with the surrounding natureal environment, will offer you satisfaction and make your stay memorable.

POZIV NA ISTINSKI HEDONIZAM

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meštena uz samu obalu Palićkog platnim Internetom. Apartmanski jezera, zaštićena stogodišnjim smeštaj omogućava korišćenje zelenilom, ona odaje utisak INFO: hidromasažne tuš-kade, video kao da je na tom prostoru oduvek. VILLA “LAGO” i audio opreme, te čajne kuhinje.

Sačinjena prožimanjem istorije i 16b Jozefa Hegedisa Street Prostor je koncipiran po principu tradicije, obmotana velom savremene 24413 Palic open space. Tu su i đakuzi, šank, arhitekture, čeka da je otkrijete, zavo- 024/603-500 hidromasažni tuš, kompletna audio lite i u njoj doživite trenutke kojih info@vila-lago.com i video oprema, te ambijentalna ćete se uvek sećati i zbog kojih ćete se www.vila-lago.com rasveta. ponovo vraćati…Vila Lago.

DOO MAX-EX Naš room service na raspolaganju Enterijer i eksterijer urađeni su joj je dvadeset i četiri sata. Uz igru po najvišim svetskim standardima. fenjera i senki, otvorena terasa Prostrana terasa na samom ulazu, šank, hidromasažni pružiće vam mir u večernjim satima. U toku ove letnje bazen i sopstveni parking samo su neke od pogod- sezone našu ponudu upotpunićemo spa centrom, sa nosti koje nudi. Boravak u vili, smeštenoj skoro na korišćenjem hidromasažnog bazena, masaže, turskog samoj obali Palića, pružiće vam uživanje u prirodnim kupatila i IC kabine. U našoj ponudi naći će se i širok lepotama, a savremenost i opremljenost apartmana spektar tretmana za lice i telo. učiniće vaš odmor potpunim.

Budite gost Vile Lago!

Na raspolaganju su: dvanaest dvokrevetnih soba, Njene čari, upotpunjene darovima prirode koja dva apartmana visoke kategorije i jedan de lux apart- je okružuje, pružiće vam zadovoljstvo i učiniti vaš man. odmor nezaboravnim Svaka soba opremljena je klimom, kablovskom televizijom, mini barom, a možete se služiti i besBELGUEST

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C LU B S AT E L I T

IN THE GALAXY OF THE BEST For over a decade now, Club Satelit has been a distinguished brand among fans of Zlatibor. This season the Club awaits its guest with a completely new makeover.

K LU B S AT E L I T

U SAZVEŽĐU NAJBOLJIH Već čitavu deceniju Klub Satelit je prepoznatljiv brend svim ljubiteljima Zlatibora. Ove sezone svoje goste dočekaće u potpuno novom ruhu.

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lthough well known as a pleasant place to stay in Zlatibor, Club Satelit is taking on a new image this season, in its determination to offer its regular guests, and new ones who have yet to discover its delights, something above and beyond. The structure has been thoroughly renovated, so that all the rooms include a mini refrigerator, television, and a hydro-massage shower cabin. With an enclosed swimming pool, Jacuzzi, fitness and sauna room, relaxing in the hotel after a long walk in the mountains becomes a true hedonistic treat. The experience is made complete with an international restaurant, cocktail bar and room service. Communication with the rest of the world, if that is something you want, is enabled via wireless Internet. The hotel offers special amenities for organized seminars, congresses and similar events that include, among other things, transportation by mini-van from Belgrade to Novi Sad for group arrivals. The hotel also offers organized excursions that cover all the interesting sites in the region. A visit to Tara, Mokra Gora, Sirogojna, Kusturičin Mećavnik, Višegrad, or Potpećke INFO pećine is yet another pleasant experience CMC Club Satelit that the management of Club Satelit can Obudovica bb, 31315 Zlatibor offer you, or better to say, the pleasant hosts Tel/fax: ++381 31 841 188 who await you.

E-mail: klubsatelit@ptt.yu www.cmc.co.yu BELGUEST

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ako dobro poznat kao prijatno mesto za boravak na Zlatiboru, Klub Satelit je u novu sezonu ušao u novom obličju, nastojeći da svojim redovnim gostima a i nekim novim, koji će tek otkriti njegove pogodnosti, ponudi bolje i više. Objekat je potpuno renoviran, tako da sve sobe sadrže mini frižider, televizor, hidromasažnu tuš kabinu. Uz zatvoreni bazen, jakuzzi, fitnes i saunu – opuštanje u hotelu posle dugih šetnji planinom postaje hedonistički doživljaj. A da ugođaj bude potpun, na raspolaganju su i internacionalni restoran, koktel bar, room service. Komunikacija sa ostatkom sveta, ukoliko je poželite, omogućena je wirelles internetom. Hotel nudi posebne pogodnosti prilikom organizovanja seminara, kongresa i sličnih događanja, između ostalih i obezbeđeni prevoz kombijem iz Beograda i Novog Sada za grupne dolaske. U ponudi hotela su i organizovane eskurzije koje pokrivaju sve zanimljive destinacije u tom regionu. Otići do Tare, Mokre Gore, Sirogojna, Kusturičinog Mećavnika, Višegrada, Potpećke pećine – je samo još jedno prijatno iskustvo više koje vam može ponuditi menadžment Kluba Satelit, ili je bolje reći ljubazni domaćini – koji vas spremno očekuju.

BELGUEST

The Riviera Hotel

This season Glam up has chosen for you the easiest and the most functional program- ULTRA LIGHT COLLECTION JUMP, excellently characterized by its lightness. The materials used for the production of this collection are at the same time resistant and flexible.

Jump baggage is a fashion detail, which retains its functionality, and therefore if you travel, do that with style.

Ove sezone Glam up je izabrao za Vas najlakši i najfunkcionalniji putni program – ULTRA LIGHT COLLECTION JUMP; lakoća perfektno odlikuje ovu kolekciju.

Korišćeni materijali za izradu ove kolekcije su u isto vreme otporni i savitljivi.

Jump prtljag je modni detalj koji zadržava svoju funkcionalnost i zato, ako putujete, onda putujte sa stilom.

Belgrade: Delta City, 16 Jurija Gagarina Street, 28 Terazije Street, Terazije Passage Zemun: 26 Glavna Street Novi Sad: TC Bazar, Spens Nis: TC Merkator Podgorica: 24 Hercegovacka Street

The Riviera Hotel 85300 Petrovac Phone: +382 (0) 86 422-100 Fax: +382 (0) 86 461-314 www.riviera-petrovac.com hotelrivijera@cg.yu

ROBINSON ADVENTURE TEAM

Robinson Adventure Team Beograd, Beogradska 29 Tel/Fax: 32 36 055, 334 67 76 Web: www.robinson.co.yu E-mail: robinson@eunet.yu Montingturs – Srbinje Tel: +387 58 210-698 +387 65 584-754 Web: www.montings.com E-mail: montings@teol.net

Provedite najuzbudljivije trenutke ovog leta u jednom od najlepših kanjona Evrope.

Rafting Tarom je najneposredniji susret s prirodom, energičnom, živom, svojom.

Tu je i tako potrebna doza adrenalina da zagreje telo.

Da nas podseti na to ko smo i šta možemo biti.

Rafting Tarom je zov prirode ali i povratak sopstvenom biću.

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THE ART OF LIVING INFO Jai Thai Temple of Thai traditional massage 48 Vase Pelagića St, Belgrade Tel (+381) 11 369 91 93 www.jai-thai.net

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raditional Thai massage, the centuries-old art of spiritual and physical healing, can help you achieve awareness of the boundless powers of being and living. Masters of this art can awaken your hidden physical and psychological potential. Drawing inspiration from Far Eastern culture, its rituals and music, Jai Thai, located near Belgrade’s centre, might be described as an urban wellness centre that is unique in the Balkans. It represents a sort of Thai temple, a place where massage relaxes your body and mind, and combined with the sounds, colours and tastes of the Orient, your soul achieves peaceful relaxation.

In addition to offering a restaurant specialising in international cuisine, Jai Tai also includes a spacious out-door coffee-shop area, six massage suites, a beauty parlor and two luxurious lounges. Discrete lighting, typical Thai ornaments on the temple

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The temple of traditional Thai massage in the upper-class Belgrade neighbourhood of Dedinje performs Eastern-culture healing practices for the body and spirit. Like the Thai temples, Jai Thai is an exotic and mysterious oasis where you can reach spiritual fulfillment and physical harmony surrounded by the colours, sounds and smells of the Orient while enjoying rituals based on the ancient art of traditional massage. walls, gilded statues and carefully selected details all combine to make your Thai experience in Belgrade a memorable one. In a space that exudes extraordinary calm and elegance, clients may choose from a selection of massages: Royal Thai, once the exclusive privilege of the royal family and Thai elite: Jai Thai, a combination of traditional Thai massage and massage with warm herbal compresses gently pressed on the body. The programme also features Yoga Thai massage and a refreshing back, neck or head massage. Candles placed close to clients’ ears are part of a pleasant therapy and unusual ritual that contributes to deep relaxation and calm. Four-hand massage performed by two therapists doubles the effect. Traditional Thai massage is dry, using no oils or creams. Customers put on linen garments and a therapist stimulates acupuncture points using his hands, forearms, feet, knees or elbows. Such mas-

sage includes stretching and gentle bending techniques. For body and facial treatments, aroma therapy or herbal baths, masters of this several-thousandyear-old art in Jai Thai use natural ingredients from plants, flowers, fruits and minerals from the Far East, made according to ancient formulas. Specialists at the Dedinje Temple recommend the most beneficial therapies, various natural and combination-essence massage oils to relieve stress, shape up, detoxify, reduce pain or boost energy. In this hectic time in which we live, everyone needs some pampering, and there is no better place to find it than at Belgrade Jai Thai, so come treat your body with rose petals or your face with lotus, or take advantage of one of the temple’s special offers for couples – Thai Heart, Honey Moon or Eastern Glamour.

VLADIMIR POČUČ

UMETNOST ŽIVLJENJA Hram tradicionalne tajlandske masaže, u elitnoj beogradskoj četvrti, na Dedinju, neguje istočnjačku kulturu brige o duhu i telu. Uz boje, zvuke i mirise Orijenta, jai thai, poput hramova Tajlanda, egzotična je i mistična oaza u kojoj se stiču duhovna ispunjenost i telesna harmonija – ritualima zasnovanim na drevnoj umetnosti autentične masaže.

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radicionalnom tajlandskom masažom, vekovnom umetnošću očuvanja zdravlja duha i tela, stiče se svest o neograničenoj moći postojanja i življenja. Majstori te veštine vraćaju i bogate čovekove skrivene telesne i psihološke mogućnosti.

Jai Thai, nadomak centra srpske prestonice, jeste urbani welness, jedinstven na Balkanu. Inspirisan je kulturom Dalekog istoka, njenim ritualima i mistikom. Predstavlja svojevrstan tajlandski hram, mesto gde se masažom, koju oplemenjuju orijentalni zvuci, boje i mirisi, opuštaju telo, um i duša.

Uz restoran internacionalne kuhinje, prostranu caffe baštu, Jai Thai ima šest apartmana za masažu, deo za kozmetičke tretmane, ali i dva luksuzno opremljena salona. Diskretno osvetljenje prostora, prepoznatljivi ornamenti na zidovima hrama, pozlaćene statue i pažljivo odabrani detalji, čine doživljaj Tajlanda u

Beogradu neponovljivim.

U prostoru koji odiše nesvakidašnjim mirom i elegancijom, posetioci se mogu odlučiti za neku od brojnih masaža – royal thai, nekada namenjenu samo kraljevskoj porodici i tajlandskoj eliti, jai thai – kombinaciju tradicionalne thai masaže i masaže zagrejanim herbalnim kompresama, kojima se lagano pritiska telo. I yoga thai masaža, te osvežavajuća masaža leđa, vrata ili glave deo su programa toga centra.

Tretman svećama, koje se postavljaju pored ivice uha, predstavlja prijatnu terapiju i neobičan ritual dubinske relaksacije i opuštanja. Masažom četiri ruke, koju istovremeno izvode dva terapeuta, postiže se dvostruki efekat.

Tradicionalna thai masaža je suva – bez ulja i krema.

Gost oblači lanenu odeću, a maser mu stimuliše akupunkturne tačke na telu šakama, nadlakticama, sto-

palima, kolenima ili laktovima. Takva masaža uključuje tehnike istezanja i blagog savijanja.

Za tretmane nege tela i lica, aroma-terapiju ili biljne kupke majstori veštine stare hiljadama godina u Jai Thai koriste prirodne sastojke biljaka, cveća, voća i minerala sa Dalekog istoka, spravljene prema drevnim receptima. Gostima hrama na Dedinju preporučuju najblagotvornije terapije, različite vrste prirodnih ili mešavine esencijalnih ulja za masažu – za oslobađanje od stresa, oblikovanje tela, detoksikaciju, smanjenje bola ili za povećanje energije.

Ako u vremenu koje živimo odlučite da priuštite sebi zadovoljstvo koje zaslužujete, ne propustite u beogradskom Jai Thai tretman tela ružama ili lica lotosom, ali i neku od specijalnih ponuda hrama za parove – srce Tajlanda, medeni mesec ili glamur Istoka.

VLADIMIR POČUČ

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R E S T A U R A N T Z O N E S I N B E L G R A D E Z O N E R E S T O R A N A U B E O G R A D U

ŠEŠIR MOJ, photograph: Branko Jovanović

These three maps depict the three areas where dining establishments in Belgrade are concentrated. Of course, the city has good restaurants outside of these areas, but these are the areas where most of them can be found, and where each and every natural and urban element works together to create a special atmosphere.

You can select an enjoyable place beside the Danube, at the very confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, or at the Belgrade Fortress, which looks over the rivers. We have represented Dorćol, too – one of the oldest parts of the city, which lies alongside Skadarska Street, also called the “Bohemian quarter,” one of the tourist centres of the city that can’t be missed.

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Sa tri karte predstavljene su tri celine u kojima je koncentrisana ugostiteljska ponuda Beograda. Naravno, grad ima dobrih restorana i van ovih ambijenata, ali ovo su prostori gde ih ima najviše i gde svaka prirodna i urbanistička celina predstavlja jednu posebnu priču.

Možete odabrati mesto za provod uz obalu Dunava, na samom ušću reke Save u Dunav ili na Beogradskoj tvrđavi koja gleda na reke. Prikazali smo i Dorćol – jedan od najstarijih delova grada, koji se naslanja na Skadarsku ulicu koja se naziva i „boemskom četvrti” i koja predstavlja jedan od nezaobilaznih turističkih punktova grada.

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1. TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501, rv/ wh 11.00-1.00h national cuisine, live music 2. PUTUJUĆI GLUMAC, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel.

3341-024 rv/wh 9.00-02.00h italian cuisine 3. ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 3228750, rv/wh 09.00-01.00h national cuisine, live music

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146 rv/wh 11.00-23.00 on Sunday 11.00-18.00h fish resturant 14. PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 rv/wh 11.00-23.00h italian cuisine 15. AMPHORA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h closed on Sunday mediterranean cuisine 16. IPANEMA, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel.

3283-069 rv/wh 9.00-01.00 on Sunday 12.0001.00h italian cuisine 17. KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel.

2627-931, rv/wh 8.00-1.00h national cuisine 18. LITTLE BAY, Dositejeva 9a, tel. 3284-163, rv/wh 11.00-01.00h international cuisine 20. IKKI SUSHI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46,tel. 2184-183, rv/wh 12.00 -24.00 japanese cuisine 21. BATLEROVA KUĆA,Gospodar Jovanova 42, tel.

218 80 33, rv/wh 12.00-24.00 national cuisine

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1. BALSAC, Strahinjića Bana 13, tel.3285-906, rv/ wh 10.00-24.00h closed on Sunday, french cuisine 2. DJU-DJU, Rige od Fere 16, tel.2182-276 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h, Sunday 13.00-20.00h, korean-japanese cuisine 3. DORIAN GRAY, Kralja Petra 87-89, tel.

2634-151 rv/wh 8.00-02.00h international cuisine 5. KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344, rv/wh 9.00-1.00h weekends 12.00-01.00h mediterranean cuisine 6. AEROKLUB, Uzun Mirkova 4, tel. 2626-077, rv/wh 9.00-23.00h closed on Sunday 7. GASTON, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel. 3285-811 rv/wh 9.00-23.00h, weekend 12.00-23.00 international cuisine 8. OTTIMO, Studentski trg 10, tel. 3286-454 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h italian cuisine 9. JEVREM, Gospodar Jevremova 36, tel.

3284-746 rv/wh 11.00-01.00h national cuisine 10. SCOTTISH PUB “VEPROV DAH”, Strahinjića Bana 52, tel.2910-135 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h national cuisine, live music 11. BUONGIORNO MARE, Strahinjića Bana 57a, tel.3284-776 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h, mediterranean cuisine 12. CASA NOVA, Gospodar Jovanova 42a, tel.

3036-868 ,rv/wh 12.00-24.00h italian cuisine 13. FISH&BAR, Braće Jugovića 3 , tel. 2622-

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4. GULI, Skadarska 13, tel.3237-204, rv/wh 12.0023.30h, on Sunday 14.00-23.30h italian& mediterranean cuisine 5. CAMPO DE FIORI, Skadarska 11, tel. 3242-940 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h italian cuisine 6. DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel.323-9079, rv/wh 10.00-24.00h international cuisine 7. ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h national cuisine, live music 8. DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885, rv/wh 09.00-1.00h national cuisine, live music 9. IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat live music

BelGuest SUMMER 2008

99

Brandy Fest SERBIAN NATURAL BRAND The second international Brandy Fest will take place in the Sava Center in Belgrade on September 26th and 27th, 2008. The organiser of the event is Brandy Bar, a company that is engaged in advertising Serbian brandy and the contemporary presentation of our tradition and culture.

Brandy Fest 2008 will assemble the producers of brandy from our country and abroad, and the quality of the brandy will be tested both by the expert and “merry” jury, consisted of well-known personalities.

A music programme will be organised on the main stage, where jazz orchestras will play during the daylight, while in the evening, wellknown Belgrade disc jockeys will have their performances. Everything is organised in order to make Serbian brandy a recognisable strong liquor brand in the world.

Brandy Fest will have its continuation at the Tourism Fair in Novi Sad, from October 9th to 12th, where the festival of the strongest tastes of Serbia will be presented, too.

Rakija fest SRPSKI PRIRODNI BREND Drugi internacionalni Rakija fest održaće se u Centru Sava u Beogradu 26. i 27. septembra 2008. godine. Organizator manifestacije je Rakia bar, kompanija koja se bavi promocijom srpske rakije i savremenom prezentacijom naše tradicije i kulture.

Rakija fest 2008. okupiće proizvođače rakije iz zemlje i inostranstva, kvalitet rakije će ocenjivati stručni, ali i veseli žiri, sastavljen od ličnosti iz javnog života. Muzički program će biti održavan na centralnoj bini, gde u toku dana nastupaju džez orkestri, dok je veče rezervisano za poznate beogradske DJ-eve. Sve to sa željom da srpska rakija postane svetski prepoznatljiv brend među jakim alkoholnim pićima.

Rakija fest 2008. nastaviće se i u Novom Sadu, u okviru Sajma turizma od 9. do 12. oktobra, gde će takođe biti promovisan najveći festival najjačih ukusa Srbije.

Phone/fax: 011/292 83 36 E-mail pr@rakijafest.com www.rakijafest.com

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1. VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h fish restaurant 2.KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Mali Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 rv/wh 12.001.00h international cuisine (live music) 3. BELLA VISTA, Karađorđeva 2-4, Savsko pristanište, tel.2632-957 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h international cuisine 4. STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311- 7444 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h fish restaurant 5. ASTERIX, Ušće 1, tel. 311-2219 rv/wh 12.00-04.00h italian cuisine 6. DIJALOG, Ušće bb, tel. 311-4847 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h national cuisine 7. VIKTORIJA, Ušće bb, tel. 3132-566 rv/wh 11.00-02.00h national cuisine 8. UŠĆE****, Ušće bb, tel. 2139-692 rv/wh 9.00-24.00h international&fish restaurant 9. KARIBI, Ušće bb, tel.2130-858 rv/wh 11.00-03.00h 10. DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel.

2140-467, rv/wh 12.00-1.00h, closed on Tuesday, international cuisine, live music

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11. LANGOUSTE, Kosančićev venac 29, tel.3283-680, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h mediterranean cuisine Autobuska st.

12. ROYAL KNEZ***, Kneza Sime Markovića 10, tel. 2635-160 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h mediterranean Beograd cuisine 13. ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 6, tel. 2635-421, rv/wh 7.00-24.00h national cuisine 14. QUE PASA, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel. 3284-764 rv/wh 9.30-01.30h international cuisine Ž.st.

15. GRČKA KRALJICA, Knez Mihailova 51, tel. 2638-963 rv/wh 08.00-24.00h Beograd 16. TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h; weekdays 9.00-02.00h international cuisine Savski trg 17. KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972, rv/wh 08.00-24.00h national cuisine 18. VUK****, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h national cuisine 19. OPERA, Obilićev venac 30, tel. 3036-200 rv/wh 9.30-00.30h italian cuisine 20. OKTOPUS, Braće Krsmanović 3, tel. 2622-509 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h, fish restaurant kan ska

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13. MALEVILLA, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.3077-575 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h international cuisine 14. ADA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.

011 260-7590 mob.063/ 464 078 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h international cuisine 15. CLUB MAG, Kej oslobođenja 2c, tel.2698-398 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h fish restaurant 16. PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 10, tel.2695-308 rv/wh 13.00-24.00h weekdays 13.00-04.00h 17. ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, mob, mob.063/7784-760 rv/wh 12.00-04.00h N O V I club, live music 18. AMPHORA, Zemunski kej bb, B E O G R A D tel.2699-789 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h international cuisine 19. AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h club restoran 20. BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h international cuisine 21. ŽABAR, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.3191-226 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h international cuisine 22. BLAY WATCH, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-228 rv/wh 09.00-04.00h club 23. GRAND, Beogradska16, Zemun, tel.

219- 4287, rv/wh 12.00-23.00h chinese cuisine

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ZEMUN 1. SALAŠ, Sinđelićeva 34,tel. 2190-324 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h national cuisine 2. REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel.2611625 rv/wh 12.00-02.00h fish restaurant &international cuisine, live music 3. ŠARAN, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel.2618-235 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h, on Monday 16.00-01.00, fish restaurant, live music 4. PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel.

2101-401 rv/wh 09.00-24.00h international cuisine 5. SENT ANDREJA**, Kej oslobođenja 35, tel.2105-565 rv/wh 11.00-24.00 live music 6. BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, tel.

2198-162 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 italian cuisine 7. STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 rv/wh 09.00-24.00h international cuisine 8. SKALA, Bežanijska 3, tel.3075-032 rv/wh 9.00-24.00h national & international cuisine 9. KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11 E, tel.3076866 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h international cuisine,live music 10. MARINERO, Kej oslobođenja 11a, tel.3165-953 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h national cuisine, live music 11. PAŠA, Kej oslobođenja 7, tel.2612119 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h fish restaurant 12. BANGKOK, Kej oslobođenja 1b, tel.373-1044 mob.064/112 34 52 rv/wh 10.00-2.00h thailand cuisine

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RAKIA BAR II

SERBIA’S STRONGEST FLAVORS INFO Rakia bar II Kralja Milutina 4, Beograd Tel: 011 – 36 – 92 – 805 www.rakiabar.com

B

randy. In Serbia, true brandy enthusiasts claim that any time is the right time for brandy. In summer and winter, before breakfast, on an empty stomach or after a hearty dinner – it always goes down well. While in mourning or when you have reason to celebrate, enthusiasts savour glass after glass, sip by sip. This is also how brandy used to be made in Serbian households from way back when – all day long, drop by drop, slowly trickled from boilers.

You can drink it at home, but it seems much better in restaurants, in good company, over small talk and meze. It invigorates the body and soul.

You should take your time and eat slowly, using a toothpick. With sweet and aromatic brandies you nibble fruit, but with strong brandies you should snack on something more substantial, like smoked ham, cheese, peppers. It is a matter of choice and taste – whether you like fresh, warm or cold, crunchy or soft food.

Tell me what meze you like and I’ll tell you

104

SUMMER 2008 BelGuest

After the first Rakia Bar (Brandy Bar) and a gift shop opened near the National Theatre – the story of brandy in the Serbian capital and the traditional consumption of fire water --an expression of national custom -- continues with Rakia Bar II in Vračar. This unique concept of drinking the finest fruit distillate with meze (salty snacks) – a creative selection of small dishes in a modern setting – represents a kind of urban hedonism, offering a venue for Belgrade to join the international hard-liquour scene. where you come from – local writer, painter and Bohemian Momo Kapor once said. A curious foreigner invited for drinks will be able to distinguish us from other peoples by what we eat when we drink. Serbians, for example, prefer to eat rather than to take meze, while Serbs over the Drina river, thanks to long-standing Oriental traditions, have taken the art of meze to the highest level.

Connoisseurs and those who enjoy secret rituals used to drink slowly throughout the entire evening, savouring a single grape berry.

Today, as old Belgrade restaurants slowly disappear and customs fade, giving way to newly-found pleasures, Rakia bar II -- with its signature interior, brown wall-paper, coloured pillows and baldachins -- keeps old Serbian tastes and traditions from falling into oblivion.

As the night silently signals the city lights in Vracar to light up under linden-tree lined streets, Rakia bar II people drink and eat meze in the moonlight. The flavours of plum brandy Virgin,

Golden Valley or the more modern vanilla-imbued Excellentia brandy permeate the atmosphere.

There are also brandies made of pears, honey, apple, quince, apricot and grape, including unusual combinations like Corda Viva – made of apple, hawthorn, or menthe or some gay brandies called Granny’s Sweets – walnut brandy.

Meze is a story in its own right – virtual culinary art works. Čoko baroko, made of dried fruits stuffed with smoked hard cheese and chocolate coating, will complement your Excellentia brandy experience. If you take an old, strong plum brandy, you should pick salaš – nut-filled plums, rolled in bacon. More than 130 top notch brandies will taste even better with stuffed chard leaves, baked beans, cracklings with kajmak and dried tomatoes.

It is all there –to preserve yet another Serbian tradition in contemporary fashion.

VLADIMIR POČUČ

RAKIA BAR II

NAJJAČI UKUSI SRBIJE Uz prodavnicu poklona, prvi Rakia bar, u blizini Narodnog pozorišta, priču o rakiji u srpskoj prestonici, tradicionalnom ispijanju te vatrene vode kao izrazu nacionalnog bića, nastavlja i zaokružuje Rakia barom II na Vračaru. Jedinstven koncept po kome se destilat najfinijeg voća pije uvek uz meze – kreativnu zakusku, u moderno osmišljenom prostoru, jeste urbani hedonizam, iskorak Beograda na svetsku scenu žestokih pića.

R

akija u Srbiji, bar tako kažu zaljubljenici u dobru kapljicu, pije se uvek. I leti i zimi.

I pre doručka, na prazan stomak, rakija jednako prija kao i posle dobre večere. Pije se s namerom – kad se tuguje i kad se raduje. Čašica po čašica... Gutljaj po gutljaj... Baš tako se odvajkada i proizvodila u srpskim domaćinstvima – u toku čitavog dana, iz kazana za pečenje slivala se kap po kap rakije.

Pijucka se u kući, a najbolje u kafani, u dobrom društvu, uz priču i meze. Merak je i za telo i za dušu. A mezeti se polako, znalački. Na čačkalicu.

Voće uz slatke i aromatičnije rakije, uz ljute pršut, sir, paprika... Stvar izbora i ukusa – sveže, toplo ili hladno, hrskavo ili meko.

– Reci mi šta meziš, pa ću ti reći odakle si – piše Momo Kapor, naš književnik, slikar i boem: – Radoznali stranac koga domaćin pozove na piće

imaće priliku da izbliza vidi razliku između nas i drugih naroda po tome šta jedemo uz piće.

Srbijanci, tako, više jedu no što mezete, dok su Srbi preko Drine, zahvaljujući dugoj orijentalnoj tradiciji, dosegli u mezećenju najistančanije nijanse. Neki veliki uživaoci i poznavaoci tajnih rituala umeli su da celo veče piju mezeteći samo po jedno zrno grožđa.

Danas, kada nestaju beogradske kafane, blede običaji i menjaju se zadovoljstva, Rakia bar II, u prepoznatljivom enterijeru sa braon tapetama, šarenim jastucima i baldahinima, od zaborava čuva stare ukuse i navike Srbije.

I dok noć sasvim nečujno pali ulične svetiljke Vračara, poigravajući se sa mirisom lipa, u Rakia baru II ponovo se pijucka i mezeti na mesečini.

Opijaju mirisi ljute šljivovice devica, iskrene zlatne doline ili moderne excellentie, sa aromom vanile.

Nađu se tu i rakije od kruške, meda, jabuke, dunje, kajsije, loze, pa sve do neobičnih kombinacija, poput corda vive – jabuke, gloga i mente ili neke od veselih rakija zvanih nanino slatko – orahovače.

Tek mezetluka je svakojakih, pravih kulinarskih umetničkih dela... Čoko baroko od suvog voća punjenog dimljenim kačkavaljem, sa čokoladnim prelivom, upotpuniće uživanje dok lagano ispijate excellentiu. Uz neku staru, jaku šljivovicu izaberite salaš – šljive sa orasima, rolovane u slaninu. Provereno dobre ukuse više od 130 rakija možete pojačati i sarmicama od zelja, prebrancem, te duvan čvarcima sa kajmakom i sušenim paradajzom.

A sve je to tu – kako bi se na savremen način nastavila još jedna srpska tradicija...

VLADIMIR POČUČ

BelGuest SUMMER 2008

105

Mr. President

BIZNIS SA STILOM

D e s i g n

U DRUŠTVU S MR. PRESIDENTOM

H o t e l

BUSINESS WITH STYLE

IN THE COMPANY OF MR. PRESIDENT

T

he first design hotel in Serbia – Mr. President was opened on November 24, 2007 in Belgrade. It is located in 75 Karadjordjeva Street in the center of the city. It has 61 rooms – 50 standard business rooms, 10 suites and 1 penthouse on the seventh floor. Unique by its concept, Mr. President Hotel in each room has a portrait of one of the great world political leaders such as Tito, Berlusconi, Castro, Putin, Stalin, Che Guevara and many others. It satisfies the needs of businessmen –worldwide telephone calls and the wireless Internet are free of charge. It includes 4b (bed, breakfast, bath, business) i.e. quality rest, breakfast, comfortable bathroom and business opportunities.

All rooms are completely modern equipped with central air-conditioning system, cable TV +100 programs, safe-deposit boxes, bathrooms with hygiene sets, fire prevention doors, smoke detectors. Instead of mini bars, there are maxi bars in the suites for guests. In the restaurant Black & White every day from 7 to 11 am breakfast is served on a buffet system consisted of healthy food. The Rushmore Bar with sculptures - American and Serbian version of Rushmore Mountain and statesmen from the history of both countries represents an ideal place for meetings and rest.

Mr. President Club with the open restaurant is the only smoking area in the hotel and it offers numerous drinks as well as hot sandwiches, pizzas and sweets. The guests of Mr. President Hotel can indulge in their stay in the hotel, because they are on the right spot and in the appropriate company.

P

rvi design hotel u Srbiji – Mr. President, otvoren je 24. novembra 2007. u Beogradu. Nalazi se u centru grada, u Karađorđevoj ulici 75. Poseduje 61 sobu – 50 standardnih biznis soba, 10 apartmana i penthaus na sedmom spratu.

Jedinstven po svom konceptu, Design Hotel Mr.President u svakoj od soba ima portret nekog od svetskih državnika, kao što su Tito, Berluskoni, Kastro, Putin, Staljin, Če Gevara i mnogi drugi.

Orijentisan na ispunjenje svih zahteva poslovnih ljudi, zadovoljava 4b standard (bed, breakfast, bath, business), tj. kvalitetan odmor, doručak, komforno kupatilo i biznis sadržaje – besplatne pozive za inostranstvo i upotrebu bežičnog Interneta. Sve sobe su kompletno i moderno tehnički opremljene centralnim sistemom klime, kablovskom TV, sa više od 100 programa, sefom, kupatilom sa setom za higijenu, protivpožarnim vratima, detektorima za dim... Umesto mini bara, u apartmanima goste očekuje maksi, sa više od 80 vrsta hrane i pića.

U restoranu Black & White svakog dana se od 7 do 11 služi doručak – švedski sto zdrave hrane. Rushmore bar, sa vajarskim radovima – američkom i srpskom verzijom Rašmor planine i državnicima iz istorije obe zemlje – idealno je mesto za sastanke i poslepodnevni odmor. Klub Mr.President, sa letnjom baštom, jedina je pušačka zona u hotelu i u svojoj ponudi ima veliki izbor pića, toplih sendviča, pizza i poslastica. Kod Mr.Presidenta gostima jedino ostaje da uživaju, jer su na pravom mestu i u pravom društvu.

BELGUEST Design Hotel Mr.President Karađorđeva 75 - 11 000 Beograd tel : + 381 11 360 22 22 fax: + 381 11 268 6254 e- mail: r@hotelmrpresident.com www.hotelmrpresident.com

T O U R I S T I N F O R M AT I O N & S I G H T S E E I N G T O U R S TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE I RA ZGLEDANJE GRADA TURISTIČKI INFORMATIVNI CENTRI TOURIST INFORMATION CENTERS

- Terazije underground passage/Terazije, pešački prolaz /, Palata Albanija, tel. 2635-622, 2635-343 , rv/wh: 9-20h weekdays, sub/Sat 9-17h, ned/Sun 10-16h - Makedonska 5, tel. 3343-460, rv/wh 9-21h weekdays, sub/Sat 9-17h, ned/Sun 10-16h - Nikola Tesla Airport/ Aerodrom Nikola Tesla / , tel. 2097-638, rv/wh 9-20h sub/Sat 9-17h, ned/Sun 10-16 - Central Railway Station/ Glavna železnička stanica/, tel. 3612-732 rv/wh 9-20h weekdays, sub/Sat 9-17h, closed on Sundays - Savsko pristanište/ Sava Pier tel. 3288-246 - Information Center Zemun/ TC - Informativni centar Zemun / , Zmaj Jovina 14, tel. 2192-094 TOS- Informativni centar/ Information Center, Dečanska 8a, tel. 3230-566 fax 3221-068 rv/wh 9.30-21.00h weekdays, sub-ned/Sat-Sun 9.30-17.00h www.serbia-tourism.org G E N E R A L I N F O R M AT I O N t e l . 2 6 3 5 - 6 2 2 , w w w. t o b. c o. y u

SIGHTSEEING UPON REQUEST - VANREDNI PROGRAM THE BELGRADE FORTRESS - BEOGRADSKA TVRĐAVA

REGULAR SIGHTSEEING PROGRAMME REDOVNI PROGRAM BELGRADE PANORAMA BY BUS- BEOGRADSKA PANORAMA AUTOBUSOM

The sightseeing tour includes a visit to Terazije Square, King Milan St., Slavija Square,King Milutin St., King Aleksandar Boulevard, Nikola Pašić Square, Republic Square, Vasina Street, Belgrade Fort.

Departure in front of Terazije Sq. Fountain every Sunday at 10.00 am Duration: 90 min Dvočasovni obilazak uključuje Terazije, ulicu Kralja Milana, trg Slaviju, ulicu Kralja Milutina, bulevar Kralja Aleksandra, Trg Nikole Pašića, Trg Republike, Vasinu ulicu, Beogradsku tvrđavu.

Polazak ispred Terazijske česme svake nedelje u 10.00 Trajanje: 90 min ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE VINČA – ARHEOLOŠKO NALAZIŠTE VINČA

Departure in front of Terazije Sq. Fountain every Saturday at 11.00 am Duration: 180 min Itinerary: King Aleksandar Blvd., Smederevo Road, village of Vinča, "Vinča" archaeological site.

Program: Tour of the archaeological site with the tourist guide and custodian.

Polazak ispred Terazijske česme svake subote u 11.00 Trajanje: 180 min Maršruta: Bulevar kralja Aleksandra, Smederevski put, selo Vinča, Arheološko nalazište "Vinča" Program: Obilazak Arheološkog nalazišta uz komentar vodiča i kustosa.

Departure point in front of the Cvijeta Zuzorić Pavilion A two-hour sightseeing tour includes a visit to Cvijeta Zuzorić Pavilion, Belgrade Fort, Military Museum, Belgrade Victor Monument, Ruđer Bošković Observatory, Ružica Church, St. Petka Chapel, Nebojša Tower, Emperor Charles' Gate, Kalemegdan Park, Gratitude to France Monument.

Polazak ispred paviljona Cvijeta Zuzorić.

Dvočasovni obilazak uključuje obilazak paviljona Cvijete Zuzorić, Beogradske tvrđave, Vojnog muzeja, Pobednika, opservatorije Ruđer Bošković, crkve Ružice, kapele Svete Petke, kule Nebojše, Karlove kapije, Kalemegdanskog parka, spomenika Zahvalnost Francuskoj.

OLD ZEMUN-STARI ZEMUN

Departure in front of „Pinki“ Sports Center A three-hour sightseeing tour includes a visit to „Pinki“ Sports Center, Strossmeyer Street, Main Street, Town Museum, Rajačić Street, the Serbian Home, Bežanijska Street, Ičko’s house, Cetinjska Street, „Beli medved“, Branko Radičević Square, Karamatina Street, Karamata’s house, Gardoš Hill, Sinđelićeva Street, St. Nicholas Church, „Šaran“ restaurant, the Zemun Quay, „Stara Kapetanija“ harbor master's building, Gospodska Street, Victory Square, Magistrate's Hall, St. Sava Library, Kosovska Street, Davidovićeva Street, House of Dimitrije Davidović, Air force Command Building.

Polazak ispred SRC „Pinki“.

Dvočasovni obilazak uključuje SRC „Pinki Zemun“, Štrosmajerovu i Glavnu ulicu, Zavičajni muzej, Rajačićevu ulicu, Srpski dom, Bežanijsku ulicu, Ičkovu kuću, Cetinjsku ulicu , „Beli medved“, trg Branka Radičevića, Karamatinu ulicu, Karamatina kuća, Gardoš, Sinđelićevu ulicu, Nikolajevsku crkvu, restoran „Šaran“, Zemunski kej, Staru Kapetaniju, Gospodsku ulicu, trg Pobede, zdanje Magistrata, biblioteku Sveti Sava, Kosovsku i Davidovićevu ulicu, kuću Dimitrija Davidovića, zgradu komande vazduhoplovstva.

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T O U R I S T I N F O R M AT I O N & S I G H T S E E I N G T O U R S TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE I RA ZGLEDANJE GRADA

Hotel Accommodation Sightseeing Tours Transfers Business Service Rent-a-car Train, bus & air tickets Complete Service Assistance

www.metropoliten.com glob@metropoliten.com VANREDNI PROGRAM- ON REQUEST

SIGHTSEEING OF THE ROYAL COMPOUND RAZGLEDANJE DVORSKOG KOMPLEKSA - The Royal Compound is open for sightseeing from April 1st to October 31st - Saturdays and Sundays, from 10.30h and 13.30h - Organized groups are requested to book their visit in advance- Tel. 3064-014 Information and bookings: Tourist Organisation of Belgrade Tourist Information Center Makedonska 5, 11000 Belgrade Tel. +381 11 3343-460 fax.3343-943 The Royal Palace 11040 Belgrade, Serbia&Montenegro www.royalfamily.org dvorski_kompleks@yahoo.com BELGRADE CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES- CRKVE I MANASTIRI BEOGRADA

Departure from Your hotel. A four-hour sightseeing tour includes a visit to Ružica Church (the oldest Orthodox Church in Belgrade - 16th century), St. Petka Chapel, old Belgrade core, Patriarch's residence, Orthodox Cathedral, St. Sava Church, Vavedenje Monastery and Rakovica Monastery.

Polazak ispred Vašeg hotela. Četvoročasovni obilazak uljučuje najstariju pravoslavnu crkvu u Beogradu Ružica (XVI), kapelu Svete Petke, Beogradsku varoš, Patrijaršijski dvor, Sabornu crkvu, Hram Svetog Save, manastir Vavedenje i manastir Rakovicu.

OLD URBAN NUCLEUS - STARO GRADSKO JEZGRO

Departure in front of Terazije Sq. Fountain.

A two-hour sightseeing tour includes a visit to Terazije Square, Prince Mihailo St., Republic Square, Kosančić Square, Orthodox Cathedral,

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Patriarch's Residence, Princess Ljubica's Mansion.

Polazak ispred Terazijske česme.

Dvočasovni obilazak uključuje Terazije, Knez Mihailovu ulicu, Trg Republike, Kosančićev venac, Sabornu crkvu, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak Knjeginje Ljubice.

WINE TOUR - VINSKA TURA

Program: Visit to the Grgeteg Monastery, sightseeing of Sremski Karlovci (Karlovci’s Grammar School, The Cathedral).

Visits to wine cellar „Lagum“ including wine tasting, the Čenej farm - salaš „137“ and its stable, with lunch in the Vojvodina style.

A daily exclusive excursion „Wine Tour“ includes the professional guide from the Belgrade Program: Poseta manastiru „Grgeteg“, obilazak Sremskih Karlovaca (Karlovačka Gimnazija, Saborna crkva). Poseta vinskom podrumu „Lagum“ sa degustacijom vina, Čenej - salaš „137“. Obilazak salaša i ergele sa vojvođanskim ručkom, uz degustaciju vina.

Program jednodnevnog ekskluzivnog izleta „Vinska tura“, prati stručni turistički vodič Turističke organizacije Beograda. „JEVREMOVAC“ BOTANICAL GARDEN BOTANIČKA BAŠTA „JEVREMOVAC“

Departure: Main gate of the Botanical gardens, every Saturday at 12.00h Info tel. 3244-498, 3244-847 Free admission Polazak: Glavna kapija Botaničke bašte, svake subote u 12.00h Info tel. 3244-498, 3244-847 Ulaz slobodan

Beograd Dositejeva 26 Tel./fax: (381) 11-2181-181 (381) 11-2622-620

BELGRADE FROM THE SKY BEOGRAD IZ VAZDUHA BALLOON SERVICE LTD. Salvadora Aljendea no.5/9 Tel: 065/ 334 34 34; 062/252-067 balonservis@ptt.yu, www.balonservis.co.yu BALON CENTAR BEOGRAD tel. +381 65 811 9110 +381 65 811 9119 www.baloncentar.com office@baloncentar.com TOURIST TRAIN ROMANTIKA TURISTIČKI VOZ ROMANTIKA

Sebian Railways - Železnice Srbije Info tel: 011 36-16-928, 3620-953, 36-18-353 rv/wh 8.00-16.00 weekdays romantika@yurail.co.yu www.zeleznicesrbije.com CRUISING WITH SIRONA- KRSTARENJE SIRONOM

Viewing Belgrade from the river; organised excursions to Novi Sad, Smederevo, Milanovac etc.

The boat’s priorities are charter engagements, with ideal surroundings for banqu ets, promotions, family celebrations and other festivities.

Info tel. 011/ 3242-490 Mobile: 063/479 244 Razgledanje Beograda sa reka, organizovanje izleta do Novog Sada, Smedereva, Milanovca i dr.

Prioritet broda je čarter angažovanje, idealan ambijent za priređivanje banketa, promocija, porodičnih slavlja i drugih svečanosti.

ZOO VRT-ZOO GARDEN Mali Kalemegdan bb, tel.2624-526, 3284-316 rv/wh 8.00-17.00h

KULTURA CULTURE POZORIŠTA – THEATERS www.geocities.com/bgpozorista ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342/www.atelje212.co.yu BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.co.yu

BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608/www.bitef.co.yu DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.co.yu DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel.2619-705 www.rex.b92.net/ister JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.yu

KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.co.yu

NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet,Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333/ www.narodnopozoriste.co.yu POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA , Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SCENA RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 323-8817 SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447 TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664/ www.zvezdarateatar.co.yu

DEČJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.yu POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715/ www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIČKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694, www.americancorners-sam.net

AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf

BRITANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ BRITISH CULTURAL CENTER, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800 www.britishcouncil.org/serbia

CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270 www.czkd.org.yu DEČIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442/ www.dksg.co.yu DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 323-99-71 FRANCUSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/FRENCH CULTURAL CENTER, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-600 www.ccf.org.yu

GOETHE INSTITUT-NEMAČKI KULTURNI CENTAR/GERMAN CULTURAL CENTER, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 2622-823/ www.goethe.de/belgrad

GUARNERIUS – centar lepih umetnosti, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807 www.guarnerius.co.yu

INSTITUT SERVANTES - ŠPANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ SPANISH CULTURAL CENTER, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, 3034-183/ www.belgrado.cervantes.es INSTITUT KONFUČIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.fil.bg.ac.yu ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ ITALIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, fax.3621-411 www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it

KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.yu KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Nake Spasić 3, tel. 367-2564, www.nur.org.yu RUSKI DOM / RUSSIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178 www.ruskidom.org.yu

REX, Jevrejska 16, tel./fax 3284-534 www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014/ www.skc.org.yu ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550 / www.kolarac.co.yu

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ - ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888 KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE - THE MANSION OF DUCHESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA - THE MANSION OF DUKE MILOSH, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422 KUĆA ĐURE JAKŠIĆA - DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUĆA - MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE - SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ - NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, 3306-000 www.narodnimuzej.org.yu

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538 VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ - VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE - SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM (direkcija), Nemanjina 24/7, tel. 3616-268, 3674-057

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ - JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634

MUZEJ BEOGRADSKE TVRĐAVE – BELGRADE FORTRESS MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-4317

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE - YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Trg Nikole Pašića 11, tel. 328- 4317

MUZEJ BANJIČKOG LOGORA, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877 VOJNI MUZEJ - MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan, tel. 3344-408, 3344-915 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIĆA, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126 MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE - NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ TOME ROSANDIĆA, Ljube Jovanovića 3, tel.265- 1434 MUZEJ IVE ANDRIĆA - IVO ANDRIC MUSEUM, Andrićev Venac 12, tel. 323-8397 ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA - THE CITY OF BELGRADE MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel.2630-825

ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJ ZEMUN - ZEMUN CITY MUSEUM, Glavna 9, tel. 316- 5234 TEHNIČKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA- MUSEUM OF MOTORCARS, Majke Jevrosime 30,tel. 3034-625 MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA - MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Beograd/Belgrade airport,tel. 2670-992, 2698-209 MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE – MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850 www.muzejnt.org.yu

PTT MUZEJ- POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3210-325 ŽELEZNIČKI MUZEJ - RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334 PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2265

MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE – MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149

UMETNIČKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIČKE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654 MUZEJ NAIVNE UMETNOSTI-MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART, Vlajkovićeva 3, www.naiveart.org.yu MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI - THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2626-630 MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Novi Beograd, Ušće Save bb, tel. 311-5713 www.msub.org.yu MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF DESIGN, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494 www.mpu.org.yu

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - CINEMA MUSEUM, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.yu

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BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI BELGRADE RESTAURANTS *skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079, rv/wh 10.00-24.00h nat DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885, rv/wh 09.00-01.00h nat live music IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat live music ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750, rv/wh 09.00-01.00h nat live music TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat live music ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat live music

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE AEROKLUB, Uzun Mirkova 4, tel. 2626-077, rv/wh 9.00-23.00h AMIGO, Mladena Stojanovića 2a, tel. 2663-366, rv/wh 09.00-23.00 ARHIV****, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, tel. 3230-910 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h BALAŠEVIĆ, Miška Kranjca 17a, tel.3510-920, 3583-809 rv/wh 07.00-23.00h BATLEROVA KUĆA, Gospodar Jovanova 42, tel. 2188-033 mob. 065/2188-033 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h BELLA CASA, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 BELLE EPOQUE, Džordža Vašingtona 2, tel. 3345-383 rv/wh BELLA VISTA, Karađorđeva 2-4, Savsko pristanište, tel.2632-957rv/wh 9.00-01.00h BEOGRADSKA PANORAMA, hotel Palace,Topličin venac 23, tel. 2637-222 rv/wh 19.00-01.00h BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 367-0562 rv/wh 10.00-23.00h COLONIAL SUN, Bulevar Vojvode Putnika 32-34, tel.3692-156 DAKA*****, Zemun, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 101-319 rv/wh 12.00-23.30h nat DAKA, Đure Daničića 4, tel. 3222-068 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h DAČO, Patrisa Lumumbe 49, tel. 2781-009, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h nat DEVETKA***, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783, rv/wh 8.00-24.00h DORIAN GRAY, Kralja Petra 87-89, tel. 2634-151 rv/wh 8.00-02.00h ĐORĐE, Šekspirova 29, tel. 2660-684, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 361-2429 rv/wh 8.00-24.00h FRANŠ****, Bulevar JNA 18a, tel. 2641-944, rv/wh 9.00-24.00h GRČKA KRALJICA, Knez Mihailova 51, tel. 2638-363 rv/wh 08.00-24.00h HAPPY FISH, Dimitrija Tucovića 83, tel. 3444-226 rv/wh 8.00-24.00h IGUANA, Božidara Adžije 30, tel. 2443-383 rv/wh 9.00-22.00h INEX CLUB „KNEZ MIHAILO” ***, Knez Mihailova 39, tel. 2633-588 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h INTERNATIONAL PRESS CENTER CLUB, Knez Mihailova 6/III, tel. 2621-661 rv/wh 9.00-1.00h

JEVREM, Gospodar Jevremova 36, tel. 3284-746 rv/wh 11.00-01.00h closed on Sunday KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 rv/wh 12.00-1.00h nat (live music) KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 rv/wh 9.00-1.00h KLOPKA, Stanislava Sremčevića 20, tel.2421-255 rv/wh 9.00-24.00 weekdays 13.00-24.00 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931, rv/wh 19.00-1.00h KLUB LICEJ, Đure Đakovića 31, tel. 3292- 672 rv/wh 13.00-24.00h , closed on Sunday KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972, rv/wh 8.00-24.00h KOLIBA, Dragice Pravice 7a, tel. 753-142 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h KONOBA , Prote Mateje 35, tel. 3861-103 rv/wh 10.00-23.30h KOŠUTA, Pionirska 32, tel. 2662-969 rv/wh 9.00-23.00 nat KRALJEVINA, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel.3305-388 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h closed on Sunday KUMBARA****, Bulevar JA 36, Beli Potok, tel. 3906-834 rv/wh 9.00-23.00h LITTLE BAY, Dositejeva 9A, tel. 3284-163 rv/wh 11.00.00-1.00h MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332, rv/wh 10.00-1.00h nat METROPOLITAN GRILL*****, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140, rv/wh 06.30-23.30h

MYTHOLOGIA, Birčaninova 42, tel. 658-911 rv/wh 11.00-01.00h NA ĆOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h NOVI SALAŠ, Zemun, Sinđelićeva 34, tel. 2190-324 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h ORAČ***, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507, rv/wh 9.00-24.00h nat OSKAR, Braće Baruh 6, tel. 184-726 rv/wh 9.00-23.00h sub-ned/Sat-Sun 10.00-22.00h PASTUV****, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-8058, rv/wh 10.00-23.00h

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PERPER lux, Omladinskih brigada 18a, tel. 2606-046 rv/wh 12.00-1.00h nat (live music) PIRE SLOW FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 rv/wh 08.00-24.00 closed on Sunday PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 rv/wh 09.00-24.00h PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel.2621-494 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h RUBIN***, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3910-987 rv/wh 10.00-23.00 nat SALAŠ, Sinđelićeva 34, Zemun, tel. 2190-324 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h SCOTTISH PUB “VEPROV DAH”, Strahinjića bana 52, tel.2910-135 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h SENT ANDREJA**, Kej oslobođenja 35, tel. 2105-565 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h (live music) SINĐELIĆ, Vojislava Ilića 86, tel. 2412-297 rv/wh 11.00-24.00 nat SKALA, Bežanijska 3, Zemun, tel. 196-605, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197, rv/wh 11.00-2.00h STARA CARINARNICA, Kej Oslobođenja 31, tel 2616-930 nat STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 rv/wh 9.00-24.00h nat TABOR****, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464, rv/wh 10.00-1.00h (live music) TANJIR, Francuska 42, tel. 339-1616 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h TEMA****, Strahinjića bana 66-68, tel.2621-753, rv/wh 09.00-01.00h TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h weekends 9.00-02.00h UŠĆE****, Ušće bb, tel. 2139-692 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h VERDI, Terazije 5, tel. 322-2401, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h VUK***, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 , rv/wh 10.00-24.00h ZAPLET, Žarka Zrenjanina 33, tel.240-4142 rv/wh 9.00-24.00h ZEPTER CLUB****, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414 rv/wh 10.00-18.00h closed on Sunday ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651, rv/wh 8.00-1.00h (live music)

ZLATNA VAROŠ, Visokog Stevana 54, tel.2928-230 rv/wh 9.00-23.00h ZLATNIK****, Slavonska 26, Zemun, tel. 3166-256, rv/wh 12.00-23.00h nat ZNAK PITANJA „?”,Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421, rv/wh 7.00-24.00h nat ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-401, rv/wh 10.00-24.00h

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS

BLED**, Budimska 2, tel. 3233-605, rv/wh 9.00-23.00h FISH&BAR, Braće Jugovića 3 , tel. 2622-146 rv/wh 11.00-23.00 on Sunday 11.00-18.00h KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h MARINADA***, Savski nasip 7, tel. 2158-331, rv/wh 10.00-1.00h (live music) OKTOPUS, Braće Krsmanović 3, tel. 2622-509 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h closed on Sunday PORTO, Francuska 52, tel. 322-5624 rv/wh 12.00-1.00h REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625, rv/wh 12.00-02.00h (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h (live music)

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS ABSINTHE, Kralja Milana 33, tel. 324-0266, rv/wh 09.00-01.00 italian&french cuisine ALO ALO, Mišarska 6, tel. 324-6974, rv/wh 10.00-24.00 italian cuisine AMPHORA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h closed on Sunday mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića Bana 13, tel.3285-906, rv/wh 10.00-24.00h french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIĆA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h ned/Sun 11.00-17.00h italian cuisine

BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h closed on Monday, italian cuisine

BUONGIORNO MARE, Strahinjića Bana 57a, tel.3284-776 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h mediterranean cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 rv/wh 9.00-24.00 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Kneginje Zorke 30, tel. tel.244-1938, rv/wh 12.00-24.00 lebanon cuisine CAMPO DE FIORI, Skadarska 11, tel. 3242-940 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h italian cuisine CASA NOVA, Gospodar Jovanova 42a, tel. 3036-868 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h italian cuisine CINECITTÀ, Kneza Višeslava 88, tel. 3544-967 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h italian cuisine DJU-DJU, Rige od Fere 16, tel.2182-276 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h Sunday 13.00-20.00 korean&japanese cuisine

IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 indian cuisine (closed on Thusday)

IPANEMA, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. 3283-069 rv/wh 9.00-01.00 on Sunday 12.00-24.00h italian cuisine

FOCACCIA, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 3011-143, rv/wh 19.00-23.00h mediterranean cuisine

FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h italian cuisine GASTON, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel. 3285-811 rv/wh 8.00-23.00h french cuisine GRČKA TAVERNA, Vjekoslava Kovača 6, tel. 416-041 greek cuisine GULI, Skadarska 13, tel.3237-204, rv/wh 12.00-23.30h italian cuisine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 sea food KINESKI RESTORAN 888, Birčaninova 16, tel.2659-542 fax.2644-352 rv/wh 10.00-23.00 h KINESKI RESTORAN GRAND, Zemun, Beogradska 16, tel. 219-4287, 063/801-8888 rv/wh 12.00-23.00h KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344, rv/wh 09.00-1.00h weekends 12.00-01.00h italian cuisine LANGOUSTE, Kosančićev venac 29, tel.3283-680,rv/wh 12.00-24.00h mediterranean cuisine LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA****, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 rv/wh 8.00-24.00h italian cuisine OPERA, Obilićev venac 30, tel. 3036-200 rv/wh 9.30-00.30h italian cuisine OTTIMO, Studentski trg 10, tel. 3286-454 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 rv/wh 11.00-23.00h closed on Sunday, italian &mediterranean cuisine

PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 181-931 rv/wh 11.00-24.00 chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h italian cuisine PIZZA HUT, Makedonska 44, tel. 3243-255 rv/wh 11.00-24.00 italian cuisine POSLOVNI KLUB „KOŠUTNJAK”, Pere Velimirovića 1, tel. 661-344 rv/wh 10.00-22.00h venision PRIRODA, Batutova 11, tel. 2491-890, rv/wh 12.30-22.00h vegetarian-macrobiotic cuisine PROVANS, Partizanski put 1B (teniski tereni OFK), tel. 2088-466 rv/wh 10.00-24.00 serbian&french cuisine

PUTUJUĆI GLUMAC, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. 3341-024 rv/wh 9.00-02.00h italian cuisine QUE PASA, Kralja Petra I 13-15, tel. 3284-764 rv/wh 9.30-01.30h international cuisine RESAVA, Resavska 24, tel. 3233-192 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h mediterranean cuisine ROYAL KNEZ***, Kneza Sime Markovića 10, tel. 2635-160 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h italian cuisine SOVA - MAO TAO, Gračanička 18, tel. 2622-656, fax 2620-668 rv/wh 10.00-24.00 chinese cuisine THASSOS, Cara Lazara 3, tel. 2620-631, rv/wh 10.00-02.00h greek cuisine

Šumadijski trg 8, Beograd tel. 011 305 41000, 011 305 4203 www.hotelsumadija.com

TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 rv/wh 11.00-2.00h italian cuisine TRAČ, Mileševska 39, tel.3447-000 rv/wh 09.00-24.00h italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 rv/wh 12.00-23.00h sea food VELIKI ŠANGAJ, Omladinskih brigada 18b, tel. 137-986 rv/wh 12.00-23.00h chinese cuisine VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h mexican cuisine ZLATNI ORIJENT, Dr.Ivana Ribara 184a, tel.3187-385 rv/wh 12.00-22.00 chinese cuisine ZORBA, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6547 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h greek cuisine

RESTORAN PIZZERIE - RESTAURANTS PIZZERIAS ASTERIX, Ušće 1, tel. 311-2219 rv/wh 12.00-4.00h CAMPO DE FIORI, Zemun, Dubrovačka 10, tel.3242-940 FONTANA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 88, tel. 3020-636 rv/wh 9.00-1.00h GOLUB, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 204, tel. 421-401 rv/wh 8.00-23.00h Zemun, Ugrinovačka 3, tel. 316-19-89

Hotel

SLODES

Located in the woody area between Banjica and Kanarevo Brdo suburbs, the

Nenametljivo enametljivo smešten u

three-star Slodes Hotel pro-

šumovit predeo između

vides quality accommodation,

Banjice i Kanarevog brda, na

hotel and restaurant services

početku starog Košutnjaka,

to athletes, businesspeople,

hotel sa tri zvezdice Slodes

and other guests.

nudi sportistima, poslovnim ljudima, ali i ostalim gostima Beograda kvalitetne smeštajne, ugostiteljske i sportske sadržaje

Hotel Slodes 92f Borska Street Belgrade Tel: 011/30-555-18 011/30-565-24 hotel.slodes@sbb.co.yu

KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344, rv/wh 09.00-1.00h weekends 12.00-01.00h LUDILO, Njegoševa 35, Zemun, tel. 3169-006 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h „M”, Vlajkovićeva 7, tel. 3231-448 rv/wh 8.00-11.30h ORAO, Bulevar despota Stefana 32, tel. 3228-836 rv/wh 00.00-24.00h

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ADA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. 2607-590 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h weekends 10.00-04.00h live music ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.063/7784-760 rv/wh 12.00-04.00h (live music) AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h club restoran BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h international cuisine BANGKOK, Kej oslobođenja bb, mob. 064/112 34 52 rv/wh 10.00-1.00h BELA LAĐA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. 2600-222 rv/wh 11.00-02.00h CRNI PANTER, Savski kej bb ČARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h DIJALOG, Ušće bb, tel. 311-4847 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467, rv/wh 12.00-1.00h (live music) KARIBI, Ušće bb, tel.2130-858 rv/wh 11.00-03.00h KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11 E, tel.3076-866 rv/wh 9.00-1.00h KLUB MAG, Kej oslobođenja 2c, tel. 2698-398, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 rv/wh 11.00-23.00h KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h LAGUNA, Ušće bb, tel. 065/246-5539 rv/wh 14.00-23.00h MARINERO, Kej oslobođenja 11a, tel. 3165-953 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h (live music) OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel. 3195-905 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h (live music) italian cuisine PAŠA, Kej oslobođenja 7, tel. 612-119 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h riblji restoran PINGVIN, Savski kej bb, tel. 177-5577, rv/wh 10.00-1.00h PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 rv/wh 22.00-03.30h STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666 rv/wh 12.00-02.00h VIKTORIJA, Ušće bb, tel. 3132-566 rv/wh 11.00-02.00h VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 rv/wh 12.00-23.00h ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h

MCDONALD’S RESTORANI – MCDONALD’S RESTAURANTS FONTANA (Mc Drive), Narodnih heroja 2, tel. 2699-012 PIRAMIDA, Jurija Gagarina 153, tel. 176-4353 POŽEŠKA, Požeška 98a, tel. 3544-473 RAKOVICA, Kneza Višeslava 45, 2322 090 SLAVIJA, Deligradska 2, tel. 2685-093 TERAZIJE, Terazije 27, tel. 3238-732 TIME OUT, Bul. Mihaila Pupina 85a, tel. 311-9577, rv/wh 00.00-24.00 ZELENI VENAC, Brankova (plato), tel. 2638-249 ZEMUN, Glavna 21, Zemun, tel. 197-511

HOTELI – HOTELS ALEKSANDAR PALAS, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel. 3305-300, fax.3305-334 BEOGRAD INTER-CONTINENTAL, Vladimira Popovića 10, tel. 220-4204 fax 311-1330 HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 fax 311-2234 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235 ADMIRAL CLUB, Venizelosova 31, tel.3038-260 BALKAN, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 fax 2687-581 BEST WESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3090-401 fax 3095-501 BEST WESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3054-100, 3054-203

YOUR PLEASURE IS OUR IDEA

VAŠE ZADOVOLJSTVO JE NAŠA IDEJA

“NAPRED - UGOSTITELJSTVO” D.O.O. - BEOGRAD

HOTEL N je smešten u mirnom i tipičnom ambijentu Voždovca. Od sadržaja hotel ima 108 soba, 3 apartmana, restoran, aperitiv bar, 2 sale za seminare sa pratećom opremom, internet u sobama i sl.

-Od hotela se veoma brzo i lako stiže do svih važnijih destinacija u gradu: centar, autobuska i železnička stanica, aerodrom...

-From the «N» Hotel you can quickly and easily reach all major points of the city: centre, bus terminus, railway station, aiport...

The «N»Hotel is placed in quite and tyipical enviroment of Voždovac. The capacity of the hotel is 108 rooms, 3 apartments, restaurant, aperitive bar, 2 fully-equipped conference rooms, internet, etc...

BILEĆKA 57 (VOŽDOVAC) Tel: +381 (0)11 39-721-83 Fax: +381 (0)11 39-555-55 www.hotel-n.co.yu E-mail: office@hotel-n.co.yu

SOBE-ROOMS, APARTMANI-APARTMENTS, DNEVNI ODMOR-VACATION, PANSION-FULL BOARD, RESTORAN-RESTAURANT, APERITIV BAR-APERIYTIVE BAR HOLIDAY INN,Španskih boraca 74, tel. 3100000, fax. 3100100 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 fax 310-5351 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 fax 2688-389 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Krađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 fax 184-458 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 3084 800fax 3442-931 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, info@zirahotels.com ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 3650 100; fax 3650 140 METROPOL PALACE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, tel. 3230-911fax 3232-991 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 303 52 52 fax 3035-353 N, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 fax 3955-555 NACIONAL, Bežanijska kosa bb, tel. 2601-156 fax 2601-177 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 fax. 2561-090 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640 385 fax 3640 393 PRAG, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 3610-422 fax 3612-691 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 ROYAL, Kralja Petra I 56, tel. 2626-426 fax 2634-222 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 fax 2190-724 SLODES, Borska 92F, tel. 3055-518 fax 3056-524 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 fax 289-2462 SPLENDID, Dragoslava Jovanovića 5, tel 3235-444 fax 324-3298 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 fax 3224-480 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-199 fax 2645 361 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 fax 3231-951 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 fax 3162-648 PUTNIK, Palmira Toljatija 9, tel. 2697-221 fax. 2690 085 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 3084 800 fax 2431-517 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-508 fax 3238-027

TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670 fax 3540-669

HOTEL ON-LINE

www.visitserbia.org

HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 fax 8230-077 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 PRESIDENT ****, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 fax 2075-260 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. 341-6131 SUČEVIĆ M **, Dugo Polje 1a, tel. 3907-487 fax. 3908-115

MOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA MOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY RTANJ BALAŠEVIĆ, Magistralni put bb, Mirovo, Boljevac, tel.030/63-316, 63-088, 63-406 www.balasevicrtanj.com

ŠARIĆ, Ibarski put 6, tel.832-5419

APARTMENTS- APARTMANI

Kraljičini apartmani*****, Šure Daničića 13, tel.322-4318 Vila Kalemegdan, Strahinjića bana 7, tel.2637-856

HOSTELI – HOSTELS 011, Viktora Igoa 3, tel. 265- 2063 www.011.hostel.co.yu 6th FLOOR, Karađorđeva 91/VI, tel. 264- 6610 www.6thfloorhostel.com AFTER No 1, Obilićev venac 8, tel. 263- 1073 www.belgradeinternationalhostel.com BELGRADE, Kralja Milana 17, tel. 323- 2336 www.hostelbelgrade.com

BelGuest SUMMER 2008

113

BELGRADE EYE, Krunska 6b, tel. 334-6423 www.belgradeeye.com CALIFORNIA BELGRADE, Cara Uroša 37b, tel. 218- 4104 www.hostel-california.com CENTAR, Savski trg 7, tel. 264- 4055 www.hostelcitycenterbelgrade.com CENTRAL STATION, Karađorđeva 87, tel. 268- 5067 www.hostelcentralstation.com CHILTON HOSTEL, Katanićeva 7, tel. 344- 1826 www.chiltonhostel.com CROSSROAD BELGRADE, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. 263- 7570 www.crossroad-hostel.com FEBANI, Cvijićeva 110, tel. 276- 9256 www.febani.com GREEN GARDEN, Sime Luke Lazića 14, tel. 266- 1150 www.greengardenhostel.com IN OLD SHOES, Brankova 18, tel. 218-3650 www.inoldshoes.com JAHTING KLUB “KEJ”, Ušće bb, tel.064/ 825 11 16 www.klubkej.com JELICA MILOVANOVIĆ, Krunska 8, tel. 3231-268, 3248-550 KONAČIŠTE “LICEJ CLUB”, Venizelosova 31, tel. 339- 2458 www.licejkon.com LIPOVIČKA ŠUMA, Lipovica, Barajevo, tel. 830- 2184 www.hostels.org.yu MONSTER HOSTEL, Višegradska 25, tel. 3066-980 mob. 064/2207-707 NEW MORNING, Balkanska 30, tel.063/ 723 49 35 www.hostelnewmorning.com STAR, Cara Uroša 6/2, tel.063/ 66 40 83 www.star-hostel.com TASH-INN, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 61, tel. 323- 0029 www.tash-inn.com THREE BLACK CATS, Čika Ljubina 7/49, tel. 262- 9826 www.hostel.co.yu TIS, Koste Abraševića 17, tel.380- 6050 www.tishostel.co.yu TRAVELLING ACTOR, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. 323-4156 www.travellingactor.com

FACILITIES

TWO RESTAURANTS: - EXCLUSIVE & AVALA - SUMMER GARDEN RESTAURANT CONFERENCE ROOMS: - ATRIJUM, FORUM, BEOGRAD, HORIZONT, DIJALOG, BEST WESTERN CLUB, IDEJA SOUVENIR/MAGAZINE SHOP PARKING WITH SECURITY, EXCHANGE OFFICE, SAFE DEPOSIT BOX, ROOM SERVICE, LAUNDRY SERVICE ACCOMMODATION 172 ROOMS AND 8 SUITES WITH MINI BAR, SATELLITE TV, DIRECTDIAL TELEPHONE, WIRELESS INTERNET, BATHROOM WITH HAIR DRYER, OWN BALCONY (MOST WITH PARK VIEW), AIR CONDITIONING, NON-SMOKING ROOMS

AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRWAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroflot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000, www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrianairlines.co.yu BRITISH AIRWAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.co.yu MALEV, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2626-377 OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com QATAR,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879 QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166 www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/III, tel. 3035-738 SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 334-8264 www.srilankan.aero SWISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174 www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, tel. 2097225 www.thy.com

DOMAĆE AVIO KOMPANIJE AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel. 2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRWAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel. 3112-123, www.jat.com MONTAVIA, Admirala Geprata 8, tel.3620-690 www.montavia.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com

MEĐUNARODNI AUTOBUSKI SAOBRAĆAJ INTERNATIONAL BUS TRANSPORT BASTURIST, Železnička 4, tel.2627-146, Rezervacije – Reservation tel. 2622-526

MEĐUNARODNI ŽELEZNIČKI SAOBRAĆAJ INTERNATIONAL RAILWAY TRANSPORT BEST WESTERN HOTEL M BULEVAR OSLOBOĐENJA 56A,11000 BELGRADE, SERBIA

Informacije - Information tel. 360-2899

E-MAIL OFFICE@HOTEL-M.COM, WWW.HOTEL-M.COM

AUTO KUĆA KOLE, Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel.2286-360 Cara Dušana 209, tel.316- 8703 www.skoda-kole.com AUTOTEHNA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 94, tel. 2433-314, 2433-323 fax 2451-667 www.autotehna.com Obilićev venac 25, tel. 2620-362, 2629-423 Maksima Gorkog 30, tel. 245-7677, 3441-749, Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-133/136 AVACO, Trnska 7, tel. 2433-797 fax 344-0412 /www.avaco.co.yu BUDGET, Hotel Hyatt Regency, Proleterske solidarnosti 38, tel. 311-3050 fax.311-5214; rezervacije tel. 2137-703

PHONE: +381 11 30 90 401, +381 11 30 90 609, FAX. +381 11 30 95 501

RENT-A-CAR

Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-361 www.budget.co.yu Topličin venac 17, tel.2639-319 Južni bulevar 40, tel. 2452-160 Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-356 FAMILY, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 42a, tel. 301-3747 HERTZ- PUTNIK, Trg Nikole Pašića 1, tel. 3346-179 Palmira Toljatilja 9, Hotel Putnik, tel.2695-225, 3193-805 Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-017 www.hertz.co.yu MASTER, Hotel Slavija, Svetog Save 1, tel. 245-0842 ext. 4100 Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport tel. 2097-468 NACIONAL, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, Airport Nikola Tesla, tel./fax. 2286-413 Kralja Petra 64, tel./fax 3285-550, www.nationalcar-scg.com PRIMERO, Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport tel. 2286-362 /www.primero.co.yu Bul. AVNOJ-a 59, tel. 301-5004 Hotel Interkontinental, V. Popovića 10 tel 311 2910 REZIME , Maršala Birjuzova 22, tel. 328-5701 www.rezime-rentacar.co.yu SKILL, Sava Centar, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 3113-684, 136-830 STAR CAR, hotel Metropol, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, tel./fax 3035-200, mob.

063/358535 /www.starcar.co.yu UNIS kombi rental, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 54, tel. 3244-422 VIP, Humska 1, tel. 3691-890, 3690-890, Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport tel. 2286-245/ www.vip-rentacar.co.yu YU TIM, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 71, tel. 3118-861, 2692-339 mob.063/282-191 www.yutim.co.yu Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-161 mob.063/279-668 ZIM rent-a-car&minibus transfers, GSA (royal olympic cruises), Čubrina 6-8, tel.303-6500 www.zim-rentacar.com RENT-A-LIMO INEX,

ELITE LIMO- Luxury Limousine Service, tel.021/458-838 www.limo.co.yu LIMO SERVIS - Zemun, Cara Dušana 173, tel. 063/123 5555 www.limoservis.co.yu V.I.P. LIMO SERVICE - Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 10a, tel. 063/111 5466 www.viplimo.co.yu

BelGuest SUMMER 2008

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SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAČNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .988 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

LINIJE GRADSKE ŽELEZNICE - CITY RAIL LINES ŽTP Beograd- BEOVOZ, Nemanjina 6, tel.361-4971 www.zeleznice srbije .co.yu Informacije - Information, tel. 337-0031, 337-0032

ŠLEP SLUŽBA - TOWING SERVICE 00-24h

Novi Beograd, Brodarska bb, Staro sajmište, tel. 301-70-70

TAKSI SLUŽBE- TAXI SERVICES ALFA, tel. 344-1100 ALO, tel. 3564-555 AURORA, tel. 3699-333 BEOTAXI, tel. 970, SMS

063,064/9700

BEOGRADSKI, tel. 9801 GOLD, tel. 3291-818 NBA, tel. 318-5777 MAXIS, tel. 9804 M TAXI, tel. 316-2626 NAXI-TAXI, tel. 2157-668

LUX, tel. 3030-123 PLAVI, tel. 3555-999 PINK, tel. 9803 ZELENI, tel. 324-6088 ŽUTI, tel. 9802

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of Internal Affairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.yu ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 rv/wr pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h,

Konzulat/ Consular Section rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-13.00h ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00 -15.00h

ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vase Pelagića 32, tel. 3693-270 fax 3690-191 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h

ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-15.30h

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL JP Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4000, 209-4444 www.beg.aero

Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel.2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.yu FUDEKS, Balkanska 47, tel. 3620-255, fax 2686-602 www.fudeks.co.yu JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.co.yu Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.yu Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.co.yu Železnička stanica Dunav - Railway Station Dunav, Đure Đakovića 39 tel. 3392-344 INFORMACIJE ZA VOZAČE

DRIVERS’ INFORMATION www.amsj.co.yu

Informativni centar AMSS - Information center AMSS, tel. 333-1100 Touring servis AMSJ Ruzveltova 16a, tel.SAOBRAĆAJU 9800 INORMACIJE O ,GRADSKOM Služba pomoći na putevima Roadside repair, tel. 987 INFORMATION ON PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION GSP Beograd, Zmaj Jovina 41, tel. 2627-411, 2629-019 www.gsp.co.yu

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - WAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9811 HITNA POMOĆ - EMERGENCY WARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - WEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9823 MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96

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AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 303-1956, 303-1964, fax. 635-606

Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, tel, 041/120-120 rv/wh pon-sre-čet/mon-wed-thu 8.00-16.00h

Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3032-437 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-11.00h AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Čika Ljubina 13, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h

BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, tel. 041/120-120

BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-17.00h

BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.30-14.30h

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 09.00-17.00h

Konzulat/Consular section, , tel.3038-204 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-14.00h BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-14.30h BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-15.00h

Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454 CRNA GORA, Užička 1, tel./fax 2668-975, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h ČEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 8.00-16.00h pet/fri 8.00-14.30h

Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 9.00-12.00h ČILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 459-974 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-14.00h

DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 367-0443 fax 2660-759 rv/wh pon-pet/monfri 9.00-16.00h

EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9-15.00h FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-15.45h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-13.00h FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-13.00h & 15.00-17.00h

GABON/GABON- consulate, Simina 15a, tel. 2637-171 fax 2620-540 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.30-15.30h

GANA/GHANA, Ognjena Price 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h GRČKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića Bana 76, tel. 3341-507 GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h

HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999

rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-17.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-11.00h HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566 ,rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.00h INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-17.00h IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-18.00

Konzulat/Consular Section rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-11.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel. 3615-182 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-14.00h

IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3672-400 fax 3670-304

rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-12.00h JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.00h KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 fax 3063-042 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-16.30h Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163 KIPAR/CYPRUS, Diplomats ka kolonija 9, tel. 3672-725 fax 3671-348 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-15.30h KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-13.00h LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 9.00-16.30h pet/fri 8.00-14.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 8.30-14.00h pet/fri 8.30-12.00h MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 328-50-76 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-12.00h (except Wednesday) MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-16.30h MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 rv/wh 8.30-15.30h NAMIBIA/NAMIBIJA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 NEMAČKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 rv/wh pon-čet/mon- thu 7.30-16.30h Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400 fax 3064-403 NORVEŠKA/NORWAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-12.00h (except Wednesday) PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-17.00h PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085216 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-13.00h & 16.00-18.00h PERU/PERU, Terazije 1, tel. 322-1197 fax 3228-694 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3616-939 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel.2662-894 fax 2662-892 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh 10.00 - 13.00h REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Zadarska 2/II, tel. 2638 691 fax 303 6096 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00h - 12.00h REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-12.00h, 13.30-16.30h RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-13.00h RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-17.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3613-964 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.0012.00h SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.00h SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.0013.00h SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog Bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel.2666-124 fax 3440-221 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-14.30h

Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-11.30h SLOVAČKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h

Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 9.00-12.00h (except Friday)) SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 9.0017.00h pet/fri 9.00-16.00h

ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.30h ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h

ŠVAJCARSKA/SWITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 8.00-16.00h, pet/fri 8.00-16.00h

Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, tel. 3065-815 ŠVEDSKA/SWEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9-12.00h (except Wednesday)

TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 3690-642

rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h sub/sat 10.00-13.00h

TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.30h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-17.00h

Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 2660-247 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-12.00h VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 659-651 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 8.00-16.30h pet/fri 8.00-13.00h

UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3674-006 fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-16.30h

PRIVREDNE KOMORE - CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Terazije 23, tel. 3248-123 PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Resavska 13-15, tel. 3300-900 www.pks.komora.net PRIVREDNA KOMORA BEOGRADA, Kneza Miloša 12, tel. 2641-355 www.kombeg.org.yu

• Project Management of IFIs Technical Assistance • Executive Search and Human Resources Services • Applied Policy Research Further contact: Ranka Milić Account Manager Andrićev Venac 8, 11 000 Belgrade Tel. + 381113248680 Fax +381113247896 E – mail: ranka_milic@hd-ecg.com Site: www.hd-ecg.com

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BANKE - BANKS NARODNA BANKA SRBIJE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. 3248-841/ www.nbj.yu UDRUŽENJE BANAKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN ASSOCIATON OF BANKS, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 86/II, tel. 3020-760/ www.finnet.co.yu

BEOGRADSKA BERZA - BELGRADE STOCK EXCANGE Omladinskih brigada 1, tel. 3221-599/ www.belex.co.yu

HRAMOVI – TEMPLES www.spc.org.yu

KONSALTING – CONSULTING BID - Balkan Investments & Development, Knez Mihailova 2-4/VII tel. 303-2260, 262-3163 fax: 626 870 www.bid-ifin.com

BC EXCEL (Arthur Andersen), Knez Mihailova 10/III, tel. 3281-288, 3281-808 www.bcexcel.co.yu DELOITTE & TOUCHE, Kralja Milana 16, tel. 3612-524, fax 3613-037 www.deloitte.com ERNST & YOUNG, Trg Republike 5/IV, tel. 3284-616 fax. 3284-559 www.ernst-young.com EURODIPLOMATIC, consulting, engineering&business services, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, 308-68-79 mob.065/606 6 606 www.eurodiplomatic.com

HD EUROPEAN CONSULTING GROUP, Andrićev venac 8, tel. 324-8680 www.hd-ecg.com KPMG, Milentija Popovića 9,Sava Centar, D32-33 tel. 3281-719 www.kpmg.co.yu PRICEWATERSHOUSECOOPERS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3302-100, fax. 3302-101 www.pwcglobal.co./yu

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 /www.savacentar.com

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, fax 688-173 /www.sajam.co.yu

TURISTIČKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta .co.yu

NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE

ADDRESS REAL ESTATE JSCO SERBIA, Nemanjina 40/7, tel.365-00-90 www.address.co.yu

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AGENCIJA „HITPROM“, Strahinjića Bana 29, tel.303-3036, 303-3037 /www.hitprom.co.yu BRADMORE CONSULTING & LEASING, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel./fax: 637-570 CITY RENT, Beogradska 35, tel. 322 0 220, 322 6948 www.cityrent.co.yu COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL, Bulevar mira 20, tel. 2663-863, fax.3674-538 EURENT, Dobračina 21, tel.3038-662 EURORENT, Takovska 45, tel. 329 -31-61 EURODIPLOMATIC, Real Estate & Rental Agency, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, 308-68-79 mob.065/606 6 606

INVEST-IMPORT, Terazije 5, tel. 3220-027, 3248-081 MENTOR REAL ESTATE AGENCY, Golsvordijeva 14, tel. 308-90-80, 308-90-81 fax.308-90-82/ www.mentorrent.co.yu

PC UŠĆE, EC, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 85b, tel. 3010-858 fax 3010-813 R.BeO CONSTRUCTION d.o.o, mob. 063/203-929 VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466 fax 2920-472 mob.062/282-434 www.vosmediator.co.yu

SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181

STADION FK “OBILIĆ”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RADNIČKI”, Tošin bunar 190, tel. 2699-119 OMLADINSKI STADION, Mije Kovačevića 10a, tel. 3291-514 ZEMUNELO, Mostarska 12, Zemun, tel. 3164-493 PAINTBALL KLUB- PAINTBALL CLUB UNREAL, tel. 2427-624, 064/119-5597 rv/wh 16-20h, sub-ned/Sat-Sun 12-20h SKVOŠ TERENI – SQUASH COURTS Squash land, Kneza Višeslava 27,Pionirski grad, Košutnjak, tel.3548-040, rv/wh 10-23h www.squashland.com

BAZENI - SWIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.yu JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835 LEDENA DVORANA - ICE HALL PIONIR, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.766-667 HALE SPORTOVA - SPORT CENTERS BEOGRADSKA ARENA, Novi Beograd, Španskih boraca 20, tel. 2133-516 DOM SPORTOVA “PINKI”, Gradski park 2, Zemun, tel. 3160-270 CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU “VRAČAR”, Sjenička 1, tel. 452-342 CENTAR ZA KULTURU I SPORT “ŠUMICE”, Ustanička 125, tel. 289-4533 GRADSKI CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU, Deligradska 27, tel. 658-747 SRC “TAŠMAJDAN”, Ilije Garašanina 26-28, tel.3240-901 SRC “PIONIRSKI GRAD”, Kneza Višeslava 27, tel. 3542-094 SC “25. MAJ”, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. 2622-866 SRC “BANJICA”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 SC “VOŽDOVAC”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-780 SC “ZVEZDARA”, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 412-353 SC “KOŠUTNJAK”, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 555-461 SC “PIONIR”, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.766-566 SRC “11. APRIL”, Autoput 2, Novi Beograd, tel. 2671-547 PALATA SPORTOVA, Pariske komune 20, tel. 601-658 PRSC TA “BALAŠEVIĆ”, Miška Kranjca 17a, tel.3510-920, 3583-809 www.balasevic-ta.co.yu - sa smeštajnim kapacitetima

ZABAVA - ENTERTAINMENT KAZINA – CASINOS ALEKSANDAR, Čumićevo sokače 55, tel. 324-3111

Bulevar despota Stefana 1, tel. 3346-060 FAIR PLAY, Hotel Kasina, Terazije 25, tel. 323-3613 FILM, Kneza Miloša 9, tel. 324-1290 GRAND CASINO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 319 43 95 Hotel METROPOL, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, tel. 323-0911 Hotel SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 244-4632 LONDON, Kralja Milana 28, tel. 2688-530 MERIDIAN, Mihajla Pupina 10b, tel. 3317-931 PARTIZAN, Dr Milutina Ivkovića 2, tel. 2648-680 RUSKI CAR, Obilićev venac 29, tel. 2635-873

KUPOVINA – SHOPPING ZLATARE - JEWELERS JOKIĆ JEWELRY&WATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAJDANPEK, Makedonska 5, tel. 3343-251 MAESTRO JEWELERS, hotel Intercontinental, tel. 311-1459, 311-3333 ext.721 Kolarčeva 4, tel. 303 30 91 NEW YORK FINE JEWELERY, Hotel Hyatt Regency Belgrade, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1204

PERIĆ&PERIĆ, Beograd, Požeška 150, tel.3543-790 Požarevac, Dunavska 116, tel.012/554-081 VITANOV, Knez Mihajlova 5, RK Beograd, tel. 2621 188 ZEPTER JEWELERY, Kralja Petra I 32, tel. 328-1414 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990 GARDEN CENTAR- GARDEN CENTER Vidikovački venac 102a, tel.2322-322 www.gardencentar.co.yu

SUVENIRI – SOUVENIR SHOPS BEOIZLOG, Knez Mihailova 6, tel.2631-721 BEOSUVENIR, Jug Bogdanova 2, tel.2631-423

Terazijski prolaz bb (između hotela Moskva i Balkan)

ETNO DUĆAN, Studentski trg 13, tel. 328-1888 ETNO MAGAZ IN GRAL, Zetska 13, tel. 3246-583 MILMA ART CENTAR, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 2634-840 SINGIDUNUM, Knez Mihailova 42, tel. 2185-323 TD ZEMUN, Zmaj Jovina 14, tel. 2192-094 ZDRAVO ŽIVO, Terazijski prolaz, mob.063/ 878-5988

CIGAR SHOP LA CASA DEL HABANO, Kneginje Zorke 2, tel. 011 3830 533, 3830 534, fax 3830 545, casa@julieta.biz

USLUGE - SERVICES INTERNACIONALNA ŠPEDICIJA /INTERNATIONAL TRANSPORT AES CARGO/MOVE ONE, Autoput Beograd-Novi Sad 294a, Zemun, tel. 848-7088, 848-7089 AGS Belgrade, Niški autoput 17, tel. 3472-321 fax. 3472-332 ALLIED PICKFORDS, Žarka Obreškog 23, Zemun, tel. 848-7744, fax. 8486-868 BIRD EXPRESS, Ljutice Bogdana 1a, tel. 235-1631, 2664-224 INTER BROKER, Knežopoljska 1, tel. 339-2253 RE/MAX Relocation Europe, Mileševska 59, tel. 2453 351 EKSPRES POŠTA - EXPRESS MAIL CITY EXPRESS, Kumodraška 240, tel. 3093-000 DHL, Omladinskih brigada 86, tel. 310-5500 FEDEX, Autoput 22, tel. 3149-075 KURIR-EXPRESS, Čelopečka 19/10, tel. 2402-547 POST EXPRESS, Takovska 2, tel. 3607-607 SKUTER, Otona Župančiča 19, tel.2197-562, 063/7113-254 TNT, Venizelosova 29, tel. 3332-555 UPS, Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla”, tel. 209-4000 lok. 2112 WORLD COURIER, Kablarska 10, tel/fax: 2653-562, 2650-881 PREVODILAČKE USLUGE ASOCIJACIJA PREVODILACA SRBIJE/ TRANSLATORS ASSOCIATION OF SERBIA, Kičevska 9, tel. 444-2997

INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES, www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 625-525

BelGuest SUMMER 2008

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INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu. yu

BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557 BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Braće Jerković, Kružni put Padina 4, tel.3467-000 www.british-int-school.org.uk

CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 fax.3675-340 www.chartwellinternational.org

DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135 ECOLE FRANCAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762 INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL BELGRADE, Nake Spasić 4, tel.2667-130 www.insb.co.yu INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel. 3690-113, 2651-832 www.isb.co.yu

LOGOS, Kvarnerska 4, tel./fax 3693-059, 3693-060 www.logosinternationalschool.com PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL BELGRADE, Prahovska 3, tel./fax 369-0825 www.primainterschoolbelgrade.com

RUSSIAN SCHOOL, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 163-883 ŠKOLE STRANIH JEZIKA – FOREIGN LANGUAGES SCHOOLS CHELSEA, Svetozara Markovića 37, tel. 3232-467, 3235-531 GALINDO, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 311-4568 www.inlingua.net.yu ILIJA M. KOLARAC FOREIGN LANGUAGE CENTER, Studentski trg 5, tel. 636-991 MOBILNI OPERATORI / MOBILE OPERATORS 063 TELENOR, Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. 063/9863 www.telenor.co.yu 064 TELEKOM SRBIJA, Makedonska 2, tel. 064/789 /www.telekom.yu 060 VIP MOBILE, Omladinskih brigada 21, 060/1234 www.vipmobile.co.yu BILET SERVIS - TICKET SERVICE BILET SERVIS, Trg Republike 5, tel. 30 333 11, 063/ 33 70 33 pon-pet 9-21h / mon-fri 9.00-21.00h / sub-sat 9.00-15.00h www.biletservis.co.yu

EVENTIM YU D.O.O., Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 113, ulaz 3, Novi Beograd, tel./fax 144-438 www.eventim-yu.com

TICKETLINE, Strahinjića Bana 43, tel. 2030-570, fax 2030-590

rv/wh pon-ned/mon-sun 9.00-20.00h www.ticketline.co.yu

TIKET SERVIS, mob. 065/888 0 555, www.tiketservis.com

FOTOGRAFSKI STUDIO - PHOTO STUDIO NIKOLAŠEVIĆ, Njegoševa 53, tel. 2457-797 /www.fotostudionikolasevic.co.yu fotonikolasevic@yahoo.com

MARKETING MOĆ MEDIJA, PR, Marketing agencija, Mihaila Todorovica 18 tel./fax: 3753853, 063/263 438 www.mocmedia.co.yu

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 DEŽURNI ZUBARI - EMERGENCY DENTISTS NOVI BEOGRAD, Goce Delčeva 30, tel. 2222-100 STARI GRAD, Obilićev venac 30, tel. 2635- 236, 24-hour VRAČAR, Ivana Milutinovića 15, tel. 244-1413, 24-hour APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923 BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIČKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIĆ, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIČKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122 PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 3065-888, Koste Jovanovića 87, tel.309-1000 EPILION, Admirala Geprata 13, tel. 361-1420, 361-0015 JEVREMOVA, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. 328-1051, 638-265 KLINIKA PETKOVIĆ, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 MEDIKOM, Braničevska 8/1, tel. 3443-781, 3089-186 PAPIĆ, Milovana Marinkovića 23, tel. 397-1772, 397-4484 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808 POLIMED, Cvijićeva 24, tel. 3291-787 VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436

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