Mill issue 1 | September/October 2018

MILL

001 Culture & Lifestyle September/October 2018 New season fashion trends In-depth look at the Spree Festival Thomas Coats Memorial Church

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CONTENTS REGULARS 04 HELLO! A few words from our editor 06 WHAT’S ON A colourful guide to local events 07 A WORD FROM THE PROVOST Lorraine Cameron welcomes you to Mill 12 COMPETITION Win stuff!

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FEATURES 14 BUDDIES An interview with Scottish footballer and BBC pundit, Steven Thompson 16 SPREE FESTIVAL Our in-depth guide to what’s happening at this year’s Spree 32 MONUMENTAL The history of the Thomas Coats Memorial Baptist Church 42 HIDDEN GEM A profile of local youth arts charity, Create Paisley 66 PEOPLE We chat to veteran local DJ, Gus Michael LIFESTYLE 22 COUNTER CULTURE A visit to shoe52 in Paisley 24 MADE IN PAISLEY Some choice items from the White Cart Company 26 FASHION Our guide to the new season 38 INTERIORS Home improvements with an ancient Japanese philosophy 45 PROPERTY Expert tips 46 BEAUTY Invaluable cosmetic advice 50 TRAVEL Krakow in Poland is a city reborn 62 FOOD AND DRINK Lunch at Ta Ta Bella’s and dinner at Zambretto CULTURE 56 MUSIC The hottest Autumn gigs and more 60 ENTERTAINMENT A round-up of the best new TV shows, films, DVDs and books

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INTRODUCTION

Hello!

MILL

001 Culture & Lifestyle September/October 2018 New season fashion trends In-depth look at the Spree Festival Thomas Coats Memorial Church

Cover image: denim jacket, £25, Primark

magazine_mill

magazinemill

magazinemill

Paul Whitelaw, Editor

You can keep in touch with Paul and the Mill team via social media or email editor@millmagazine.co.uk

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Editor: Paul Whitelaw Business Account Manager: Sharon Wallace Photographer: Colin D Fisher Director: Paul Dickson Beauty Editor: Susie Cormack Bruce Fashion Editor: Carrie Mitchell Interiors Editor: Carine Seitz Travel Editor: David Walsh Contributors: Ainslie Henderson, Juliette Jones, Allan Reid, Mark Shankland Printed in Scotland by

ISSUE 001 - SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Paul Whitelaw

Published by Fletch Design Ltd. 115 Abercorn Street Paisley PA3 4AT

CULTURE & LIFESTYLE

Now that the formalities are out of the way, let me introduce you to Mill, a brand new bimonthly culture and lifestyle magazine for the people of Paisley and Renfrewshire.

We decided to embark upon this mission for one fundamental reason: our neck of the woods is so full of activity, so packed with life and colour, it deserves a magazine that can celebrate the best it has to offer.

So that’s why we’re here.

In this, our very first issue, you’ll find features devoted to festivals, arts initiatives, historical landmarks, notable local figures and independent businesses. You’ll discover expert guides to beauty, fashion, travel, property, interiors and popular culture. Pretty much the whole gamut, lifestyle-wise.

But there’s more to Mill than that.

We’re not interested in being just another free glossy magazine, the sort of thing you idly flick through while waiting for a friend in a pub or coffee shop. We want to fully represent your community in all its myriad hues.

Every interesting and eccentric aspect of Paisley and Renfrewshire life is grist to our, well, mill.

All are welcome in these pages.

We look forward to engaging with you. We look forward to drawing your attention to people, projects and events that you might otherwise have missed. We look forward to seeking out stories, discovering new talent and throwing a favourable spotlight on every nook and cranny of our surroundings. We’re nothing if not forward-looking.

The magazine you’re currently holding wouldn’t exist without the tireless efforts of our talented team of writers and generous contributions from various Renfrewshire citizens.

Thanks to you all.

This should be fun, a positive endeavour. Here we go then. Enjoy.

millmagazine.co.uk

We want to hear from you, get in touch via email: info�millmagazine.co.uk Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine-free paper derived from sustained forests. Mill Magazine is a trading name of Fletch Design Ltd. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The content of all advertisements in this publication is the responsibility of the advertiser and is received in good faith. Fletch Design Ltd cannot be held responsible for any erroneous advertising content. The opinions expressed in Mill Magazine are those of individual contributors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the editor or publishers who cannot be held responsible for actions taken as a result of the content of this magazine. ©Fletch Design Ltd 2018.

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WHAT'S ON 7 SEP 7pm

We pick out some of the highlights taking place on your doorstep in September and October.

MUSEUM MEMORIES

To mark the closure of Paisley Museum for refurbishment, this family-friendly event celebrates the town’s past, present and future with a mixture of crafts activities and film screenings, plus music, poetry and dance performances. Paisley Museum, free.

8- 9 SEP

RENFREWSHIRE DOORS OPEN DAYS

This annual event offers an eye-opening opportunity to explore buildings in Renfrewshire that don’t usually allow access-all-areas privileges to the public.

Highlights include a visit to Paisley Abbey, where among other hidden treasures you’ll be introduced to the stone gargoyle resembling one of the Xenomorphs from the Alien series. Check renfrewshireleisure.com for more details.

Various Renfrewshire venues, times vary, free.

7 SEP 7.30pm

SUSIE MCCABE: DOMESTIC DISASTER

With this stand-up show, Scottish comedian Susie McCabe became the fastest-selling act at the 2017 Glasgow International Comedy Festival. Expect an evening of naturally funny storytelling in which she explains, in no uncertain terms, why she’ll never be mistaken for a domestic goddess.

Paisley Arts Centre, £12/£10.

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13 SEP 8pm

ROB BRYDON: I AM STANDING UP

The affable Welsh comedian kicks off the second leg of his latest nationwide stand-up tour in Glasgow.

It’s his first live outing in nine years, and only his second under his own name – during previous stage shows he always appeared in character as hapless cuckold Keith Barrett from Marion and Geoff. This, however, is the ‘real’ Brydon in all his sharp-witted glory.

Royal Concert Hall, Glasgow, £32.

FEATURES

A WORD FROM THE PROVOST

So, Paisley has a new magazine of its own… and why not?!

Paisley has had its fair share of criticism over the years, some of it fair, but most of it unwarranted. It has been difficult trying to change the fortunes of the town, especially with the very rapidly growing practice of online shopping. However, recent years have seen great things happening for local folk, and the Paisley 2021 bid brought with it an excitement and positivity that this town hasn’t seen for years.

We need to recognise that the High Street will never go back to the way it was, and we need to accept that we have to find a ‘new normal’. I know the council, and other partner organisations, are working hard to reinvent the town, supporting exciting projects through the Community Empowerment Fund and welcoming any inventive initiatives that will bring locals and visitors back into our centre.

I want Paisley to become a place that people want to talk about, and for all the right reasons. I want it to be a town that is buzzing with activity, boosting our economy and reputation in the process. I want the town to become a place that our young people want to stay in, for both education and work, and a place that they can be proud of.

That’s where the new Mill Magazine comes in, and could it have a better name? Anything that will promote, support and encourage our community, past and present, is to be welcomed with open arms and supported. It will be a Paisley magazine, for Paisley people, and will include key information about the groups, organisations and businesses operating in our town, as well as more recreationally-focused information like beauty, news, fashion, food and drink.

I hope, like me, you love the magazine with its modern, up-to-date and stylish articles. It is also vibrant, colourful, varied and interesting… just like Paisley people!

I wish the magazine every success.

Lorraine

Councillor Lorraine Cameron Provost of Renfrewshire

14 SEP 7.30pm

JURASSIC PARK IN CONCERT

Celebrate the 25th anniversary of Steven Spielberg’s ground-breaking dinosaur classic with this special HD screening, which is accompanied by the Czech National Symphony Orchestra performing John Williams’ rousing score. The admittedly pricey £101 tickets furnish you with a Life Finds A Way VIP package, which offers some of the best seats in the house plus various limitededition collectibles. SEC Armadillo, Glasgow, from £28.40.

15 SEP 7.30pm

DANCING THROUGH THE DECADES

Organised by a Paisley-based charity, the Scottish Huntington’s Association, this retro disco extravaganza promises to be a fun and feverish night for rug-cutting glitter ball enthusiasts. And all for a good cause too. Check hdscotland.org for more floor-filling details.

Pollokshaws Burgh Hall, Glasgow, £10.

22-30 SEP

DISNEY ON ICE PRESENTS DREAM BIG

This skating spectacular features a pirouetting phalanx of girl-friendly Disney characters such as Moana, Cinderella and Rapunzel as they embark upon various magical quests. If you arrive early, you can also enjoy a 90th anniversary rink-based celebration of the little squirt who built this empire, Mickey Mouse. Visit disneyonice.com for time and ticket details. Braehead Arena, Glasgow, from £26.

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29 SEP 3pm

BE HERE NOW

Courtesy of several popular tribute bands and the Fool’s Gold Indie Clubnight, this swaggering all-day festival drags you back to the mad-for-it era of Oasis, Happy Mondays, The Stone Roses, Ocean Colour Scene and Primal Scream. Paisley Town Hall, from £18.50.

28 SEP 10am

WORLD'S BIGGEST COFFEE MORNING

Feel free to bring your own cakes and goodies along to this fundraiser for MacMillan Cancer Support. Since 1990, these informal coffee mornings have raised over £200million.

Do your bit by enjoying some caffeinated chatter within the charming confines of Erskine’s fairy garden. Erskine Community Garden, free, but donations accepted for MacMillan.

OPENS 1 SEP

29 SEP 6.30pm

ACCORD FIREWALK

Have you ever wanted to literally walk across hot coals? Of course you have. This adrenalised event, impressively billed as “the shortest, hottest, most exhilarating walk on Earth”, will teach you how to do it while raising money for Renfrewshire patients and families in need of care. Your feet will be in the safe hands of leading firewalking experts, Firewalk Scotland. Alight upon accordhospice.org.uk for more information.

ACCORD Hospice, Paisley, £20.

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MADE IN PAISLEY

This brand new arts venue will provide an allencompassing array of creative opportunities for budding artists.

Freely open to the public, it’s an ambitious venture that promises to host exhibitions, drawing and painting classes for all age groups, plus so much more. 69 High Street, Paisley.

FEATURES

7 OCT 7.30pm

30 SEP 12pm

28 OCT 12pm

HOUSTON ART, CRAFT AND GIFT FAYRE

Handbags, jewellery, fudge! All of these treats and more are available from the 30 stalls at this family-friendly afternoon affair. If you’re famished after all that browsing, you can also enjoy snacks, refreshments and the River Inn’s Sunday carvery. The River Inn, Houston, free.

TWIST AND SHOUT

The ‘60s British pop explosion was one of the greatest cultural breakthroughs of the 20th century.

This sweat-drenched jukebox musical flips its wig to timeless tunes from the likes of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Dusty Springfield and Lulu, as it journeys from the Beat Boom era to the Aquarian age of flower power and free love. In a word: groovy. Eastwood Park Theatre, Giffnock, from £20.

12 - 20 OCT

THE SPREE

Now in its sixth year, Paisley’s ever-popular music, arts, family and whisky festival returns with another knock-out line-up. You can find out more in our bumper Spree feature on page 16.

Various venues, Paisley and Renfrewshire.

10 OCT 7.30pm

WALK LIKE A MAN

Not to be confused with the multiple-award winning biographical musical Jersey Boys, this hit-packed tribute to Frankie Valli & The Four Seasons is still a guaranteed crowd-pleaser in which an impressive group of slick soundalikes relive the golden age of rock and roll. You’ll believe a man can cry. Paisley Town Hall, from £21.

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FEATURES

26 - 27 OCT

PAISLEY HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL

A motley host of ghosts and ghouls will be out in force once again at this annual ectoplasmic spookenanny.

A family-friendly event: kids love being scared, just as long as you’re there to hold their hand. Various venues, Paisley, free.

28 OCT 7.30pm

THE JOHNNY CASH ROADSHOW

The Man in Black is reborn in this criticallyacclaimed tribute to his life and work.

Accompanied by a crackerjack band including his very own ‘June’, musician Clive John embodies Cash’s brooding renegade spirit to such a spookily accurate degree, the late Country legend’s own granddaughter, Caitlin Crowell, has said: “Clive captures my grandfather just as he was.”

Eastwood Park Theatre, Giffnock, from £22.50.

26 OCT 8pm

ROBERT FLORENCE IS BISCUITY BOYLE

The co-writer and co-star of cult BBC Scotland sketch show Burnistoun treads the boards with his tragicomic alter ego, Biscuity Boyle, in this highly-anticipated one-man show. A dilapidated raconteur, the Burnistoun Community Centre’s favourite elder statesman will be spinning tall tales about his former life as an athlete and disco dancer.

Considering the harrowing state of his health these days, they might be difficult to believe. An inspired creation. Paisley Arts Centre, from £14.

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COMPETITION

WIN

Win a pair of distinctive silver earrings courtesy of acclaimed artist and designer, Leah Gurr.

T

he striking pieces of jewellery designed by Paisley-born Leah Gurr are largely inspired by ornate ecclesiastical and Victorian buildings. Their shapes, structures and details inform her precious metals and gemstone creations.

Leah recently launched her ‘Abbey’ range, which can be perused and purchased at her online store (see details below).

However, she’s joined forces with Mill to offer you an exclusive chance to win a pair of her beautiful Abbey Drop Earrings.

Made in Sterling Silver and measuring approximately 3cm in length and 1cm in width, these marquise-shaped earrings are suspended on hooked ear wires, with their shape and intricate beaded detail reflecting the fine design of the beautiful Paisley Abbey.

HOW TO ENTER To enter the competition, just email your name to us at info@millmagazine.co.uk. The winner will be drawn at random, then notified vial email and in our November/December issue.

Good luck!

Contact Leah to find out more about her work at facebook.com/leahgurrjewellery/ or via her Instagram account: instagram.com/leah_ gurr_ jewellery.

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BUDDIES

Steven Thompson Steven Thompson enjoyed a successful 20-year career playing for teams such as Dundee United, Rangers and St Mirren, before moving into football punditry for BBC Scotland. Mill tackles him in this exclusive interview.

F

ootball and music don’t tend to mix.

Anyone who’s ever heard a Scotland World Cup squad novelty single will attest to that.

However, retired footballer Steven Thompson has been tethered to music since his early teens.

Born in Paisley yet raised in nearby Houston, he’d often travel by bus to visit Paisley’s fondly remembered record shop, Stereo One. “I actually used to DJ a lot when I was a youngster,” he reveals. “I had the decks and the mixer, so I used to buy tonnes of records from that shop. I spent all my pocket money on records, I must have had about a thousand. I’d turn the music up to a hundred decibels and DJ away in my bedroom. That was my secret passion, not a lot of people knew I did it.”

A few years later, Thompson shifted his allegiance from hard-core dance to the happening sounds of Oasis and Blur. After receiving a guitar for his eighteenth birthday – the same year he signed with Dundee United – he spent most of his free time learning how to play.

“I’d pick it up most afternoons and became self-taught,” he recalls. “I reached a certain standard and then just plateaued, I never really took it any further. I’m probably still playing the same songs now that I was playing when I was eighteen. I actually had a book called ‘The Three Chord Beatles’ or something like that, so I learned to play basic versions of all these Beatles songs.

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You think that you’re some sort of rock star, but you’re not. I also really liked Jimi Hendrix, but I couldn’t play his music!”

Despite his passion for music, Thompson never seriously considered it as a career. “I would probably have liked to been a P.E. teacher had I not become a footballer,” he says. “I think that was in the back of my mind at school. I don’t think I could be somebody who’d be able to do an office job or somebody that had to sit still for any period of time.”

So how did he make the seismic shift from bedroom DJ and Beatles busker to professional footballer? “Dundee United had a really good scouting network in Glasgow when I was growing up,” he recalls. “I used to play with local boys’ clubs, I played with Gleniffer Thistle, and they would come along and watch games. So they scouted me, and I left Gleniffer to go to Dundee United. Then at 17 they asked me to go up fulltime. I pretty much made my debut that year. It all kind of snowballed very quickly.”

Thompson scored 116 goals during his career, eight of them for the Scotland international squad. However, it’s probably no surprise to learn that this lifelong St Mirren fan, who played for the team between 2011 and his retirement in 2016, treasures two goals in particular.

“I was very fortunate to score in the semi-final and final of the League Cup win in 2013.” he says, “It’s a real cliché, but that was a dream come true.

I went to the 1987 cup final to watch St Mirren play, and I remember Ian Ferguson scoring the winning goal. I probably held that vision in my head my whole life, and then, strangely, it was me doing the very same thing for St Mirren some 20-odd years later.”

Although playing for St Mirren was always his dream, Thompson harbours some mild regrets about his time there. “The first three years I was there, I was top goal-scorer and we won the cup, but I should’ve chucked it at the end of the third

FEATURES

year,” he laughs. “I was just kind of hanging in a bit after that, I had a bad injury to my groin. It probably didn’t end the way I would’ve liked, but the experience of playing for my boyhood team was still incredible.”

Out of all his teammates over the years, Thompson reckons Dutch midfielder Ronald de Boer was probably the best. “His ability was just incredible. When I first joined Rangers, it took me quite a long time to get used to the training because of the quality of the players. I’ve also played with players who were at the end of their careers, people like Robbie Fowler, and that was pretty special. I would love to have played with him in his prime, but you could see he still had these incredible predatory instincts.”

And his toughest opponent? “That would be John Terry, he was just so incredibly physical. He wanted to win everything. I was quite a physical striker myself, but every time I’d jump for a header he was smashing me!”

In the last couple of years, Thompson has made a smooth transition from player to pundit. After doing bits and pieces for BBC Scotland while he was still playing, they eventually asked him to join full-time.

“It actually couldn’t have gone any better in terms of a transition from one career into another,” he enthuses. “I absolutely love it, you get to watch football and travel to Scotland games, seeing different countries and cultures.

It’s difficult to find a job that replicates the thrill and pressure of football, but live TV actually gives you that buzz as well. I wouldn’t have liked to have gone into a job where I might’ve been bored, but punditry always keeps you on your toes.”

Steven Thompson, who’s the best? Ronaldo or Messi? “I would probably have to say Ronaldo, because he has dedicated himself to the sport, to making himself an athlete. Messi has probably got more natural ability, but Ronaldo has crafted himself into the ultimate athlete and that takes an awful lot of discipline.”

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Martha Reeves

16 MILL

FEATURES

SPREE FOR ALL The Spree, Paisley’s annual music and arts festival, is a much-loved fixture in Scotland’s cultural diary.

We’ve picked out some highlights from this year’s stellar line-up, which unfolds between 12th and 20th October.

Wolfgang Flur

MARTHA REEVES & THE VANDELLAS AND THE LONDON AFRICAN GOSPEL CHOIR PERFORMING GRACELAND Saturday 20th, Paisley Town Hall, 7.30pm With classic hits such as Dancing In The Street, Heat Wave and Nowhere To Run, Martha Reeves & The Vandellas established themselves as one of the greatest acts on the Motown roster. We spoke to the legendary Miss Reeves on the eve of her Spree performance.

You’ve been singing your hits for over 50 years. How do you keep them fresh?

The songs are never the same. When I sing them it’s a different time, it’s a different audience, a different band. They always have their magic. We try to remember the same feeling we had when we first recorded the songs. People ask me: where is your favourite place to perform? It’s with people who love the Motown sound, everywhere and anywhere where people gather to hear it.

What, for you, was the key to Motown’s success? We didn’t sing songs that would offend or depress or suppress people. It was all about happiness, joy and energy. It was music to make you dance and enlighten you and brighten your life.

music

As you might expect, Tony Iommi in Conversation with Phil Alexander: A Life in Music (Friday 12th, Paisley Town Hall, 7.30pm) involves Black Sabbath’s riff-meister general discussing his remarkable life and career. One of the original architects of heavy metal, Iommi has made a hugely significant – and very loud – contribution to rock history.

Tracyanne Campbell from Glasgow’s Camera Obscura probably doesn’t count many Sabbath albums among her collection. She is, however, one of the finest white soul singers in the country. She recently teamed with Bristol singersongwriter Danny Coughlan to record a gorgeous album produced by the great Edwyn Collins.

Tracyanne & Danny

And yet you often managed to imbue the music with subtle social commentary? Some of the song were investigating our lives.

Please Mr Postman by The Marvelettes was about the Korean War, when people at home were hoping to get a word from their loved ones overseas. It was one of the first socially assertive songs on Motown. We had Jimmy Mack, which is about someone who’s gone to fight in the Vietnam War and we’re wondering when he’s coming back. Those songs were timely, they all had meaning. I guess that’s why I put my heart and soul into them.

Was there ever any rivalry between the Motown acts? There was. Whenever you were recording there would be someone standing at the door of the studio, saying: “If they can’t get it, we can!”

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FEATURES

music

The Orb

Tracyanne & Danny

Gang of Four

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(Saturday 13th, Spiegeltent, 7pm) will be playing highlights from that record with support from seminal Glasgow band The Pastels.

Another musical pioneer, albeit in the synth-pop and electronica spheres, former Kraftwerk android Wolfgang Flur (Saturday 13th, Spiegeltent, 11pm) brings his solo show to the Spree. A must for Krautrock fans. Ambient house innovators The Orb (Monday 15th, Spiegeltent, 7pm) are one of the countless artists Kraftwerk influenced. Join them as they celebrate their 20th anniversary. Post-punk politicos Gang of Four (Friday 19th, Spiegeltent, 7.30pm) are yet another one of the influential acts visiting Paisley this October. Expect intensity aplenty.

Often referred to as ‘The Hendrix of the Sahara’, Malian guitarist Vieux Farka Toure (16th October, Spiegeltent, 7.30pm) is a force to be reckoned with. This exceptionally talented musician is on his way to becoming a global superstar, so don’t miss what is sure to be an electrifying show.

Formerly of Arab Strap and El Hombre Trajeado respectively, Aidan Moffat & R.M. Hubbert (Saturday 20th, Paisley Arts Centre, 8pm) have been fixtures on Glasgow’s underground music scene for over 20 years.

They’ll be performing songs from their recently released collaborative album, Here Lies the Body.

Organised in partnership with Paisley Vespa Club, Modstuff (Saturday 20th, Spiegeltent, 12pm) is a joyous all-day celebration of the talcum-powdered sounds of mod and northern soul. A quadrophonic gaggle of covers bands and DJs will have you dancing ‘til you drop.

FEATURES

national whisky festival Over 50 whiskies are available during this vibrant celebration of the best of Scottish culture (13th October, Paisley Town Hall, 12pm-3.30pm/4.15pm-7.45pm), so grab yourself a dram or three while enjoying a rich programme of whisky-related arts, books, crafts and live music. You can also quench your thirst at a craft beer bar. The fun doesn’t end there: The Good Spirits Company have set up an onsite bottle shop allowing you, at discount prices, to take home some of the flavours you’ve discovered. Needless to say, people of Scotland, this event will sell out fast, so book your tickets now.

comedy Janey Godley, a stalwart of The Stand comedy clubs in Glasgow and Edinburgh, presides over this evening of stand-up (12th, Spiegeltent, 8pm). Other acts include Des Clarke, Stuart Mitchell and a surprise act yet to be announced.

Janey Godley

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FEATURES

family and kids

Cosmopot

Explore Paisley as you’ve never seen it before with National Theatre of Scotland Presents Do’s and Don’ts (12th to 14th/16th to 21st, Paisley Town Hall, 12.30pm and 5pm). A remodelled truck fitted with a specially commissioned choral soundscape will whisk you through the town on a truly magical mystery tour.

Created by Paisley Arts Centre’s Artist in Residence, Clare McGarry, Cosmopot (Saturday 13th/Sunday 14th, Paisley Arts Centre, 10.30am and 1.30pm) is a multi-sensory show suitable for young children. You’ll enter a magical space full of bubbles, stargazing and, of course, teapots.

Parents, do you still love to boogie, but rarely get the chance? Then Mini Manoeuvres (Sunday 14th, Spiegeltent, 12.30pm) is the family-friendly disco for you. Dance all day while your children enjoy soft play, face painting, arts and crafts and party games.

The music continues with Funbox (Tuesday 16th, Spiegeltent, 1.30pm), a new pirate-themed show from three erstwhile members of The Singing Kettle.

Dressing up is encouraged, and not just for the kids.

The Scottish Chamber Orchestra Family Day (18th October, Spiegeltent, 10am and 1pm) encourages children between the ages of four and nine to pick up some brightly coloured instruments in the benign company of an esteemed group of storytelling musicians. Who knows, you may have a budding virtuoso on your hands?

Book your tickets and find out more about this year’s Spree line-up at thespree.co.uk. Tickets can be purchased in person at the InCube Shop, 9B Gilmour Street, Paisley. Opening times: 10am to 5am, Monday to Friday.

0141 618 6040.

Scottish Chamber Orchestra Family Day

20 MILL

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FEATURES

COUNTER

CULTURE

Mill takes a stroll around one of Paisley’s most popular independent retail outlets, shoe52.

W

ladies’ footwear and handbags, a change of handle was required. “We changed our name to expand business,” explains Michelle, “as we felt the Pinocchio Footwear name was too childish, and didn’t reflect the right image for ladies.”

Since rebranding and expanding their stock, shoe52 has gone from strength to strength.

Michelle and Diane personally handpick and import their stock from major retailers in Europe, and pride themselves on selling quality brand names in both children’s and ladies’ ranges. According to Michelle, their most popular brands are Ugg, Lelli Kelly, Geox, Skechers, Fly London, Bugatti, FitFlop and popular Italian handbag O Bag. They are, in fact, Scotland’s only stockist of O Bag. Shoe52 is an ideal shopping destination for parents looking to kit out their children with some fashionable schoolwear. What’s more, Mum can pick up a new handbag and some shoes while she’s at it.

Michelle and Diane are proud of their devotion to customer service. As well as stocking a colourful array of affordable items, they also offer a free measure and fitting service. Consumers always leave shoe52 with a spring in their instep.

So what’s the best thing about running an independent retailer in Paisley town centre? “Meeting local people and serving the community” smiles Michelle, as she bustles off to serve another customer.

It’s true what they say: there’s no business like shoe business. shoe52 can be found at 5 Mill Street, Paisley, PA1 1LY, 0141 848 9715. Check them out on Facebook at: facebook.com/pinocchio.footwear

22 MILL

Photography by Colin D Fisher, cdfimages.com

hen shoe52 first opened in 2010, it wasn’t shoe52 at all. It originally traded as Pinocchio Footwear, a name reflecting its exclusive focus on shoes for children.

When, in 2015, co-owners Michelle Wallace and Diane Young decided to branch out into

THE PAISLEY COMMUNITY WEBSITE

FEATURES Glass heart by Lorna, £8.99

Coaster by Doofery, £5

Piper by Kat, £25 Green Art Deco clock

by Archie, £135

Coasters by Doofery, £4

made in

PAISLEY

Mum by Leona, £25

A gift that keeps on giving, the White Cart Company supports local artists to provide an array of quirky, tasteful and distinctive household adornments. Here are some choice items from their current stock…

Scarf by Sandra, £20

Museum by Lilias, £40

Mill by Stuart Brown, £9.95

Heart Hankie by Marie, £25

All products available from the White Cart Company, 2 St Mirren Street, PA1 1UA and 75 Glasgow Road, PA1 3PE, whitecartcompany.co.uk

24 MILL

FEATURES

S D N E R T

T R A N S L A T E D

Carrie Mitchell hosts our easy-to-wear guide to the new season

26 MILL

S

FASHION

NEW DENIM RULES

Fact: a jean jacket will never go out of style. However, keep your look up-to-date by paying attention to the details. For gents, a fur collar is a subtle enough nod to the season while ladies should trade summer’s cropped, fitted styles for generously over-sized cuts that will keep you ever-so-slightly warmer and chic-er.

He wears… Denim jacket, £25, Primark.

She wears… Denim jacket, £29.99; mom jeans, £25.99, top, £9.99 and trainers, £49.99, all from Zara.

MILL 27

CHECK YOURSELF

From tartan to houndstooth, get some checks in your wardrobe this Autumn/Winter. Choose a statement coat - or even better, choose two. Layering gains you extra warmth and style points this season.

She wears… Checked coat, £110; jumper, £40; sunglasses, £14; earrings, £7; all River Island.

He wears… Checked coat, £125; green trousers, £35; green polo, £25; all River Island.

28 MILL

FASHION

SUITS YOU

When it comes to evening wear, a chic tailored jacket or suit in soft velvet will give you the sartorial edge at the office party. Keep things from looking too formal by pairing with trainers or flats - and yes, I mean the ladies too. You don’t have to wear towering stilettos to be head and shoulders above the pack in the style stakes.

She wears… Jacket, £75, and trousers, £55, both Linea; top, £55, Maison Scotch; all at House of Fraser.

He wears… Merino roll neck, £40; emerald velvet jacket, £119; trousers, £59; trainers, £65; all Kin by John Lewis.

MILL 29

FASHION

30 MILL

ALL OVER THE OVERCOAT

FEATURES

When it comes to investing in a new coat, dodge the temptation to stick to a predictable palette of navy, grey, black or camel and opt for a bold shade that will brighten up the dull days.

This rich terracotta shade is a sharp choice for the lads while a vivid pop of pink is perfect for the ladies.

She wears… Pink Crombie coat, £35; straight jeans, £16; both George at ASDA. He wears… Rust coat, £80; white shirt, £32; jeans, £40; shoes, £55; all River Island.

MILL 31

Photography by Colin D Fisher, cdfimages.com

FEATURES

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FEATURES

MONUMENTAL

Allan Driver is an authority on the Thomas Coats Memorial Baptist Church, one of the most famous and cherished landmarks on the Paisley skyline. We spoke to him about the history and future of this magnificent piece of Gothic art.

O

ne of Paisley’s most striking buildings, the Thomas Coats Memorial Baptist Church ceased to function as a place of worship in August of this year. A dwindling congregation meant that maintaining its role as a house of God was no longer tenable: another vanquished symbol of our increasingly secular society.

However, the end is not quite nigh for this category A listed building, which first opened its doors in 1894. The sad reality of its closure was alleviated by the news of plans to transform it into a state-of-the-art entertainment venue purpose-built for concerts and theatre productions, as well as opera and dance recitals.

This ambitious renovation has yet to be greenlit, but if it does go ahead it is expected to cost around £3million.

Some locals expressed concern about these plans. Was this beautiful building about to be sullied irrevocably? In an official report last year, architectural and property development company Framed Estates attempted to put their fears to rest.

They stated: “There can be few 19th century buildings more stimulating and exciting than the Thomas Coats Memorial Church, or none more worthy of sensitive restoration. The fabric of this A listed Gothic architecture edifice is, as much as practically possible, to remain untouched.”

Church trustee Allan Driver is a font of knowledge on the building’s history. Naturally, he has mixed feelings about the mooted restoration.

“Obviously we would prefer that the church remained a place of public worship,” he admits, “but that’s not a realistic prospect. One look at the building next door to it

MILL 33

FEATURES

is a stark reminder of what can happen if a building is left to deteriorate, so the church being used, even in the form of an entertainment venue, is preferable.”

He quickly adds: “We’re not talking about a nightclub or anything like that, we’re talking about a cultural venue.”

What makes the Coats Memorial Church so special? It’s almost like a work of art in its own right. What you see from the outside, the decorative stonework and the beautiful colour of the stone, even that doesn’t prepare you for the opulent inside. The carved marble, the alabaster, the decorative metalwork and so on, each aspect of that is a work of art.

The organ is a remarkable piece of equipment, isn’t it, both visually and sonically? The organ is one of the most important instruments in the country. It’s a Hill organ, and Hill was the maker in his heyday. It’s essentially in its original sound condition, it’s not been modified. Yes, the linkage between the console and the pipes has been modified, but the actual sound of the instrument is exactly as it would’ve sounded when the church opened in 1894. Very few instruments of that age have survived without major alterations to their sound quality.

How does Coats differ from other Baptist churches? There will not be another Baptist church that sports the kind of decoration and

“ IT WAS BUILT BY THE PEOPLE WHO PUT PAISLEY ON THE MAP, IN THAT SENSE IT’S A MAJOR PART OF PAISLEY’S HERITAGE” ornamentation that Coats has. In terms of its scale and its level of decoration, it is unlike any other Baptist church that I know. There may be Baptist churches in America that can rival it for scale, but nothing in terms of its decoration.

Baptist churches by their nature tend to be plain, simple, undemonstrative buildings. In a sense, the kind of Calvinistic approach to religion is reflected in the surroundings, but the Coats church is not any of those things, it’s the very opposite in fact.

Why is that? The original congregation, which was established in 1795, they worshipped in a little building in Storie Street. They were a very liberal and tolerant congregation, they weren’t Calvinistic in their outlook whatsoever. Indeed, the Coats congregation has always been regarded as very open in its philosophy.

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FEATURES

MILL 35

H A I R . B E A U T Y. B R I D A L

Laura Gray is an award-winning wedding hair and makeup artist providing oustanding service for your very special day. Please call or email for your free, personalised quotation.

LAURA GRAY 07813 964 066 | info@lauragray.co.uk | www.lauragray.co.uk

FEATURES

The church was named in honour of Thomas Coats, a successful threads manufacturer, devout Baptist and philanthropist. What can you tell us about him?

His father set up Paisley’s first little thread-spinning shop in his back yard. Later on, Thomas was one of the major driving forces in the mechanisation and industrialisation of the whole thread-spinning process. He was an important figure.

The whole Coats family were essentially very philanthropic, and Thomas was very concerned about the welfare of the people of Paisley. Not just his own workforce and not just Baptist congregations, because he donated money to a whole variety of different denominations. They also supported schools, hospitals and museums, and obviously the Coats Observatory.

Given his support for the people of Paisley, do you think that Thomas Coats would be philosophical regarding the transformation of his church into a cultural hub?

Yes, as it was always intended for culture as well as a place of public worship. The notion that concerts would be held there, obviously of acceptable musical formats, that was something they envisaged.

The church means a lot to Paisley, doesn’t it? Its position on the High Street puts it at the heart of Paisley, and it was built by the people who put Paisley on the map. In that sense it’s a major part of Paisley’s heritage.

Visit coatsmemorial.org.uk to find out more about the church.

Thanks to Colin D Fisher for his church interior and architecture photography. Colin has been a professional photographer since 2013. His specialities include commercial photography, interiors and architecture, live events, photojournalism and portraiture.

Visit cdfimages.com for more information and contact details.

MILL 37

INTERIORS

WABI-SABI

Using an ancient Japanese philosophy, it’s possible to find beauty and calm in imperfection.

Our interiors guru Carine Seitz shows you how.

I

nteriors can be exhausting: just when you think you’ve nailed it, something as simple as a scroll through Instagram can set you off on a search for a new type of perfection spotted on someone’s grid.

When you’re cursed with a constant need to keep updating your home, you’ll know the pain of realising that even that particular ‘look’ isn’t quite right. If this sounds familiar, it’s time you embraced wabi-sabi.

An ancient Japanese philosophy focused on accepting the imperfect and transient nature of life, the concept of wabi-sabi has somehow become an interiors trend based on embracing a way of living that is authentic, simple and closer to nature.

But it’s more than just a ‘trend’, it’s a shift in perception, a way of living. Wabi-sabi celebrates the beauty of impermanence, the elegance of the authentic and incomplete. It’s the antithesis of shiny perfection, the opposite of brand new or perfectly matching. Instead it’s a celebration of imperfection.

It’s a well-read book, its pages gently curling.

It’s a well-worn step, its tread curved with years of foot-fall. It’s a crack in a ceramic bowl, an aged leather seat, a much-loved family photograph showing generations of smiling faces. It’s a fallen branch rescued and displayed inside your home.

The suggestion, clearly, isn’t that we should abandon our robust homes and carefullydesigned interiors in favour of crumbling and

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Get the wabi-sabi look for your home on p46

House of Fraser

“

IT’S THE ANTITHESIS OF SHINY PERFECTION, THE OPPOSITE OF BRAND NEW OR PERFECTLY MATCHING

ramshackle hovels, but embracing wabi-sabi is to appreciate the things in your home that aren’t perfect.

Instead of feeling frustrated that an old hand-me-down dining table might be scratched and a bit rickety, value the generations of people who have shared food there and the stories that have been told around it. Each mark is part of its history.

If you’re short on heirlooms, a few carefullychosen new items can add a sense of wabi-sabi calm to your home. Select objects with an imperfect aesthetic: raw and unfinished or cracked glaze ceramics; natural textiles like linen throws, wool blankets and sheepskins; items made from wood or bamboo. Reduce clutter and keep technology out of sight as much as possible, and use a colour palette of soft tones and earthy hues.

LIGHTING

WALLPAPER

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BEDS

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FURNITURE

Sensacion caterers have been serving Paisley, Renfrewshire and surrounding areas for over 10 years and we pride ourselves on using the best produce whilst delivering prices that offer excellent value for every occasion.

We cater for any event from dinner parties to weddings and everything in between.

We don’t do set menus as we feel that everyone should have the freedom to choose what food they want for their event, and this has been key to our success over the years.

Please get in touch today and get your personalised quote for your event

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Slate Glass Tray, £110, Amara

Glass hanging brass frame, £12.95, Rex London

Butternut vase, £14, Next

Retreat jug, £25, Marks & Spencer

Marks & Spencer

Weave cushion, £30, John Lewis

GET THE LOOK

Throw, £15, Debenhams

Add a sense of wabi-sabi to your home with well-curated items that embody the philosophy.

Orange dash mug, £9.95, White Stuff Vase, £15, Debenhams

Berber rug, £100, John Lewis Normann Copenhagan nude throw, £91, Amara Rope handled carrying basket, £50, Amara

MILL 41

FEATURES

hidden

GEM

Create Paisley is an arts charity providing opportunities for young people. Project manager Alan Clark tells us more.

P

iers Morgan aside, everyone has the potential to achieve something positive with their lives. Unfortunately, so many people never get the chance to fulfil their potential. That’s where the likes of Creative Paisley come in.

Formed in 2009 as a partnership between local churches, youth leaders and Christian movement Youth With A Mission Scotland, it initially hosted a monthly open-mic night aimed at youngsters with untapped talent. Since then it’s become a registered charity providing regular arts workshops and youth mentoring schemes encompassing music, film, photography, art, writing, poetry and digital platforms.

“We started in response to a lot of young people at the time just hanging around Paisley High Street,” explains project manager Alan Clark. “They didn’t have much to do or places to

be. A number of people including myself saw that and wanted to do something. We recognised a real need for creative safe environments for young people.”

Those environments include drop-in space, Create Café, and the Blend Coffee Lounge, both of which play host to a variety of programmes aimed at young people from the ages of 12 to 21.

“It’s all about hearing their voices and helping them feel more connected to their place in their town,” Clark explains.

“Ultimately it’s about seeing them build up their confidence and creativity to make an impact on Paisley.”

Clark’s admirable project is rooted in the purely altruistic values of Christianity. You don’t have to be a believer to get on board with that.

“It’s really great seeing the progress of some of the young people that we worked with years ago,” says Clark. “Some of them are now volunteering or working for us. Some of them played on stage with Paolo Nutini at Hogmanay 2016. To see how much it’s meant to them makes it all worth it.”

Create Paisley is based at Methodist Central Halls, 2 Gauze Street, Paisley, PA1 1EP. Call them on 0300 365 0321 or visit the website at: createpaisley.org.uk

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FEATURES

THE ESTATE AGENCY SERVICE YOU DESERVE FROM PEOPLE YOU CAN TRUST

With over 30 years industry experience, Caledonia Property have helped thousands of homeowners buy, sell, let and rent property. By taking the

BUY

very best of our traditional estate agency services and expertise, we are now

SELL

able to offer a range of transparent and affordable online and classic estate

LET

agency marketing options. So, please contact Caledonia Property today on 0141 648 0888 today to start your next home move.

RENT

WHAT’S YOUR HOME WORTH? CALL FOR A FREE, NO OBLIGATION VALUATION

25-29 Causeyside Street Paisley, PA1 1UL 0141 648 0888 caledoniabureau.co.uk.

44 MILL

PROPERTY

PROPERTY

Take some comfortably furnished advice from two of our local property experts.

MARKET WATCH Ainslie Henderson, sales manager for Caledonia Bureau, explains why Paisley and Renfrewshire have recently become such hot property.

ART FOR ALL Looking for new windows and doors?

Follow this expert four-step guide from Art Windows & Doors co-founder, Allan Reid.

1

Buy an energy efficient product, that’s the key thing nowadays.

2

With windows, you’re looking for a product that’s secure and where the glazing has been glazed internally rather than externally. That means burglars can’t take your glass out from the outside as they used to do.

3

With doors, you want a good quality profile.

You want something that’s colour-fast to maintain the colour. That’s unlike cheaper doors, where the grade isn’t up to scratch and the colour eventually dyes.

They become grey or blue, and in some cases even pink. We always feel the German products are by far the best in this industry.

4

You want a door that’s fully reinforced with steel, as that gives it added strength and security.

For more information visit the Art Windows & Doors showroom at 16e Broomlands Street, Paisley, PA12LU, Tel: 0141 887 7999, artwindowsanddoors.co.uk.

As someone who was born and bred in Renfrewshire, there is barely a street name or style of property I’m unfamiliar with. I’ve been in the estate agency business for 21 years and have witnessed first-hand many trends and changes, not least Paisley’s ascent through the property ranks.

Paisley is a town with a strong sense of pride.

It’s steeped in vibrant culture and full of historic landmarks. It recently raised its profile again with its bid for City of Culture 2021. This has seen visits to the town and surrounding areas rise by 17% over the last year, outperforming the rest of the Glasgow City Region.

People have realised Paisley’s potential, and in 2018 we have seen activity in the housing market and house prices rise. More and more people from outside the Renfrewshire area are moving into our towns, after learning about the difference in value for money between a Glasgow and Renfrewshire postcode. With bus, train and motorway networks allowing easy access to surrounding areas, there is no real reason not to live here.

Paisley has rediscovered itself with this ongoing regeneration. Its significant heritage not only makes it worth visiting, but also a wonderful place to live in.

Whether your personal tastes drive you to a traditional tenement flat or a modern home, you’ll find a broad range of choice in Paisley.

Contact Ainslie at Caledonia Bureau Estate & Letting Agents, 25-29 Causeyside Street, Paisley, PA1 1UL, 0141 648 0888, caledoniabureau.co.uk.

MILL 45

Oh Glow On Then!

Looking to hold on to that summer glow for as long as possible?

Make like gorgeous Scottish model Emma Lou Connolly here and add some New Look Glow Drops to your base. Offering buildable colour, this budget liquid highlighter comes in at only £6.99 and outperforms many a higher priced rival.

READ MY LIPS

HELLO HONEY…

I have too many lipsticks… said no one ever. That’s why I’ll be puckering up at Bobbi Brown counters to try the brand new House of Luxe lippies.

There’s the choice of a high shine or a matte finish if you like a liquid formula, but I’m tempted by the solid Luxe Matt Lip Color (CORR) stick as, despite the matte finish, this exclusive oil-infused formula delivers a feather-like feel and promises up to 12-hours of wear. All variations priced £28.

BEAUTY

Save face this season with some cosmetically helpful tips from our beautician magician Susie Cormack Bruce.

Honeysuckle was the first fragrance I was ever gifted as a pre-teen, so Jo Malone London’s new Honeysuckle & Davana really resonated with me. The twist of davana (along with rose, moss and patchouli) makes this a far more sophisticated scent than my Avon rollerball offering, but that beautiful, warm note of honeysuckle is so evocative that it can’t help but bring back memories and make me smile.

Bet you will too. Prices start at £45.

46 MILL

HIGH BROW NEWS Tired of using numerous products to perfect your brows? Time to check out Benefit’s new Brow Contour Pro, a 4-in-1 brow defining and highlighting pencil that includes two shades to fill brows for a natural looking gradient, an edge definer to sharpen the brow shape and an arch highlighter to accentuate. It’s not the cheapest at £28.50 but it could well be the best.

BRUSH STOKES They say a bad tradesman always blames his tools. If you’ve been complaining that your less than flawless foundation is down to dodgy brushes, then excuse time is over as Next has launched this set of four oval precision brushes for £14. Sure, there are even cheaper brushes out there, but we reckon they’d struggle to match these for delivering a truly flawless finish.

With its award winning and innovative formulas, Fake Bake is the global leader in self-tanning, giving you the ultimate tan from a bottle. With a tan to suit every skin type, skin tone and lifestyle, Fake Bake are truly the experts in creating that perfect tan. Fake Bake have teamed up with Mill Magazine to bring you an exclusive offer of 30% off ALL retail products, using the code MILL30 at the checkout.

Visit www.fakebake.co.uk to browse the full range and grab your exclusive discount today!

Discount code: MILL30 promotion ends 30/09/18

BEAUTY

L’eau and

Behold

Moisturisers? So last year, lady. Hydrators are the new in thing in skin. Designed to increase the water content of the skin, here are three new generation hydrators guaranteed to make you look like you’ve downed two litres of eau before brekkie.

Clinique Moisturise Surge, from £23. Using Hyaluronic Acid (which holds water in the skin cells for 72 hours), this can be used under make-up, over make-up (gently tap over, don’t rub in) and as a 5-minute mask.

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel, from £6.66. This oil-free water gel formula disappears to nothing on the skin yet its continuous release system keeps skin supple and hydrated all day.

A real lightweight wonder.

BEAUTY

expert Paisley native Nicola Farquhar is a fully trained makeup artist with fashion, film and special effects experience, but the highlight of her working week is making brides beautiful on their big day.

How did you start? A makeup artist friend inspired me to go back to college and retrain as a makeup artist myself. I always had a passion for makeup, however I didn't consider it as a career until then.

What’s the best thing about working in the industry? Spending time with my brides on their wedding mornings and helping to make them feel amazing. It is a privilege to be a part of such an important and special day.

What’s your favourite cosmetics brand? At the moment, Charlotte Tilbury. I love her makeup and skin care products, and as she’s a makeup artist herself, all her products work exactly as they should.

What beauty trends are you loving right now?

I tend to prefer a more natural beauty look, where you can see the skin and everything is not too overdone. I love a smoky eye, but I think makeup should enhance what you have and not completely change how you look.

What should people look for when booking a makeup artist? It’s important that you feel comfortable with that person, especially for a bride. You should feel confident to tell them your likes and dislikes and also if you are unsure about anything.

La Roche-Posay Hydraphase Intense Serum, from £14. Serums tend to contain more active ingredients than standard lotions and this is no different, with Hyaluronic Acid fragments, Arginine, Serine and La Roche-Posay’s fabled thermal spring water.

Lastly, what’s your top tip for achieving a professional look at home? Your preferences, and good products that suit your skin. Good skin care is essential. If you start with a good base everything else is so much easier! nicolafarquhar.co.uk

MILL 49

A CITY REBORN

The Polish city of Kraków has witnessed a deluge of pain and suffering over the years. Recently, however, it’s experienced a period of positive reinvention.

Our travel guide David Walsh finds out more.

50 MILL

TRAVEL

W

herever you go in Poland’s second city, the scars of history have left an indelible impression. Perhaps more than most cities, Kraków has experienced repeated traumas that few could ever begin to imagine: war, invasion, occupation and genocide.

Don’t let that fool you into thinking that Kraków is bleak. It’s anything but. The city’s grit in the face of adversity shows a determination to reinvent itself as a vibrant, laidback city.

Thankfully, it’s succeeding.

Feeling the double edge of this sword most keenly is Kazimierz, the old Jewish Quarter. Once the thriving centre of Polish Jewish culture, five hundred years of history disappeared overnight with the deportation and extermination of the city’s Jewish population during the Holocaust.

While only 200 Jews still call Kraków home, Kazimierz continues to be an important centre for preserving Jewish heritage. As well as protecting this vital legacy, the district has laid claim to being the most up and coming part of town. It’s ripe for exploration.

Remaining respectful to the painful memories associated with the area while also trying not to impede progress has been a careful balancing act.

The result, however, is that Kazimierz has become a cultural melting pot with an influx of coffee shops, bars, restaurants and street food vendors.

Old red-brick churches and modern glass buildings stand side by side, while walls, gable ends and alleyways have been transformed by street artists rivalling talent seen in cities such as Glasgow, Berlin and London. Their art bears witness to the area’s past trials.

Old buildings have also experienced their own renaissance. Like many countries, craft brewing has swept Poland. In Kazimierz, the place to get a real taste of the country is Stara Zajezdnia.

Occupying a former tram depot, this renovated building houses a bar, restaurant, concert venue and microbrewery all in one place and is an essential stop on any jaunt through the quarter.

New life has been breathed into city districts like Kazimierz, in no small part thanks to the river Vistula. Once derelict, the banks of the river are ground zero for what is now a constantly shifting city, with a new footbridge and cycle paths tempting locals out in their droves to enjoy the riverside.

There’s a lot to enjoy on the river. Many of the city’s landmarks, like the formidable Wawel Castle, can be seen at their best from

MILL 51

TRAVEL

Rynek Główny

the water, as you sail past on a pleasure cruise.

Once the ancient seat of the kings of Poland, this imposing terracotta-tiled fortress is a national symbol for Poles. It represents pride, hope, independence and resistance.

However, the city’s focal point is still without a doubt the Rynek Główny, the expansive town square at the centre of the medieval Old Town.

Regardless of the season, this pastel-washed square - the largest of its kind in Europe - is the beating heart of city life. On summer evenings, it is thronged with people watching buskers or enjoying beers and meals at cafes and restaurants along its fringes, all the while under the watchful gaze of St Mary’s Basilica.

At Easter, the square is awash with locals milling around market stalls selling tall,

52 MILL

“

REGARDLESS OF THE SEASON, THIS PASTELWASHED SQUARE - THE LARGEST OF ITS KIND IN EUROPE - IS THE BEATING HEART OF CITY LIFE

Panetone-sized cakes adorned with glazed fruit and icing and other sweet temptations, as well as moreish pierogi - traditional meat, cheese, mushroom or vegetable-filled dumplings cooking on large pans. At Christmas, like many town squares in central and Eastern Europe, it twinkles with festive lights as the smell of grilled sausages pervades the air.

The historic Rynek Główny is definitely a mustsee, but to experience Kraków - the robust, fresh city that is springing up from the old - you need to go a little off piste.

Just ten minutes’ walk northwest from the main square, you’ll find Dolne Młyny, a sprawling former tobacco factory that has become a de facto city district of its own. Billed as ‘a city in a city’, the rough-and-ready complex houses

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FEATURES

30-odd bars, restaurants and clubs, as well as creative spaces like a film studio and art spaces.

One of its most popular haunts is Weźże Krafta, a craft beer joint that deserves every visitors’ attention. Inside this former warehouse, 25 different beers on tap are served in rotation against a backdrop of bare bricks and ceiling beams, or on the cobbles outside.

The marriage between old and new at Dolne Młyny is perhaps the most fitting metaphor for the city as a whole. Whether wandering cobbled medieval streets, walking past austere communist concrete or hauntingly vivid murals, you can feel the sense of harmony between the past and the future - something that makes Kraków unique, special and worth the airfare alone.

HOW TO GET THERE Ryanair flies direct from Glasgow to Kraków from £36.71 one-way.

Visit ryanair.com for details.

WHERE TO STAY Classic double rooms at the PURO Hotel Kraków Kazimierz start from £83.29 per night. This bright, spacious hotel is right at the heart of Kraków’s hippest district. Look out for little touches like complimentary bike hire and free hot drinks for patrons in the lobby. Children under 4 stay free, too. Visit purohotel.pl for booking information.

54 MILL

VENTURE TO VENICE Fly twice a week from this October with

MUSIC

For your listening and dancing pleasure, here’s our choice guide to some of the best gigs and music events happening this Autumn.

SHANIA TWAIN So you think you’re Brad Pitt? The Canadian country-pop superstar will doubtless posit this evergreen question during these gigs, her first in Scotland for 13 years. With three decades of hits behind her and a brand new album, NOW, out on 29th September, she certainly won’t struggle to compile a set-list. SSE Hydro, Glasgow, 19th and 21st September.

THE LOVELY EGGS This fluorescent lo-fi punk duo from Lancaster are a beloved cult concern. Eccentric, witty and unique, married couple Holly Ross and David Blackwell make a charmingly tuneful racket.

Their infectious 2012 single Don’t Look At Me (I Don’t Like It) – sample lyric: “Look at him with his dog dirt eyes!” – is a classic.

Once heard, never forgotten. CCA, Glasgow, 12th October

ASH Ash were still teenagers when they released their hit debut album 1977 back in 1994. They’re now in their early forties and still going strong. Good for them, but where does the time go? The Northern Irish trio are out promoting their well-received latest album, Islands.

Alas, this gig will be tinged with sadness, as it had to be relocated from the O2 ABC, which was badly damaged in the fire that recently destroyed the Glasgow School of Art. The Garage, Glasgow, 17th October.

THE SHE STREET BAND The world’s first and only all-female Bruce Springsteen tribute act, this highly acclaimed London-based septet perform the songs of The Boss with their own unique flavour. Their sold-out shows at home have received rapturous reviews, so don’t miss this Scottish leg of their first UK tour. Even the E Street Band’s own Garry Tallent is a dedicated fan. The Great Eastern, Glasgow, 8th October.

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MUSIC

GO-KART MOZART

This major exhibition celebrates Scotland’s extraordinary contribution to popular music since the late 1950s. Stretching from Lonnie Donegan to Young Fathers and every significant act in between, it’s a colourful and touching distillation of how a country as small as Scotland has miraculously produced such a wealth of musical talent over the decades.

This lovingly curated treasure trove is packed with posters, instruments, memorabilia, paraphernalia and costumes, including the famous raincoat worn by Ultravox frontman Midge Ure in the Vienna video, and Annie Lennox’s iconic tartan suit.

Classic songs and videos play on rotation as you weave your way through carefully-arranged rooms devoted to various decades, genres and themes. Where else would you find Belle and Sebastian’s recorder nestling alongside Alex Harvey’s striped t-shirt, Billy Mackenzie from The Associates’ beret, a lime-green Lulu trouser suit from 1968, and a warped guitar that was once set alight onstage by Biffy Clyro frontman Simon Neil?

Only in Scotland.

National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh, until 25th November 2018.

TEENAGE FANCLUB Straight outta Bellshill, Teenage Fanclub are the ne plus ultra of Scottish indie guitar pop. Cheerfully indebted to Neil Young, The Byrds and power pop luminaries Big Star, the self-effacing Fannies have always transcended mere pastiche for one simple reason: they write great songs. In a parallel universe, the likes of Sparky’s Dream and Ain’t That Enough would be whistled daily by postal workers. These homecoming gigs celebrate their time on Creation Records.

Barrowland, Glasgow, 29th, 30th and 31st October.

YOUNG FATHERS We’ll cover Young Fathers in more depth in the next issue of Mill, but we felt it was our public duty to remind you that this Mercury Prize-winning Edinburgh trio are playing in Glasgow when winter rolls around. Get your tickets now, as the gig will sell out fast. O2 Academy, Glasgow, 30th November.

©Ninja Tune

RIP IT UP: THE STORY OF SCOTTISH POP

©Donald Milne

Photo by Neil Henna

©PP Hartnett

The enigmatic Lawrence Hayward – professionally known only as Lawrence – has ploughed his own idiosyncratic furrow since emerging with cult indie band Felt in the ‘80s. After dissolving Felt and follow-up band Denim, he formed Go-Kart Mozart in 1998. Whereas Denim were indebted to Glam, Go-Kart Mozart pay affectionate tribute to the novelty ‘70s pop sounds of Lawrence’s youth. Oran Mor, Glasgow, 17th October.

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MUSIC

FOR THE RECORD Feel The Groove is Paisley’s leading independent record shop. Manager Mark Shankland picks out some of their favourite current releases.

Love Is Dead by Chvrches

This is the third studio album from Glasgow-based synth-pop band, Chvrches. Their style can be described as electronic indie: the heir apparent to Depeche Mode and New Order. Love is Dead peaked at number seven in the UK albums chart and number eleven in the US Billboard top 200.

We love this album, which is available on 180 gram heavyweight clear vinyl.

Joe’s Garage by Frank Zappa Originally released in 1979, this is a concept album following the strange life of a young man who starts a garage band. Some critics at the time slammed the album for its satirical commentary – it covers everything from American politics to censorship and organised religion – but it has since been reappraised as one of the key records in Zappa’s discography.

We have it as a triple-album on heavyweight 180 gram vinyl.

Misplaced Childhood

by Marillion Marillion are a British progressive rock band. This, their third album, peaked at number one in the UK charts and contains the band’s two most successful singles, Kayleigh and Lavender. Based on the childhood of frontman Fish, it’s regarded as one of the greatest concept albums of all time.

We have new copies of the album, which was reissued in 2017 on remastered vinyl.

PAISLEY UNDERGROUND Subtopian Planning Board are a dynamic prog/post-rock/psychedelic quartet from Paisley. Here they tell us more...

We have to ask: where does your name come from? There was a guy on TV in the ‘70s, he made little travelogues. He was basically an architecture critic, and he hated post-war regeneration.

He wrote a book and at the start there’s a photograph of a regenerated street in London. He then drives to Carlisle and finds a street that looks exactly the same. So he gave that a negative term, which is Subtopia. We thought we’d put an authoritative spin on it and call ourselves Subtopian Planning Board.

Your sound is very nocturnal, it’s not daytime music. That comes from our personalities. We’re night owls. We actually just rolled out of bed for this afternoon interview!

That makes sense, as your music has a slightly ominous, oppressive, ‘70s urban renewal feel. Some of us are influenced by music from that time, it definitely seeps in.

Listen to the band’s Fragment Blue album at subtopianplanningboard.bandcamp.com and find them on Facebook at facebook.com/SubtopianPB.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Paul Whitelaw and Juliette Jones’ guide to the best new TV shows, films, DVDs and books.

TELEVISION BETTER CALL SAUL

TELEVISION DOCTOR WHO When it was announced that Jodie Whittaker would become the first female incarnation of everyone’s favourite Time Lord, the response was largely positive. Inevitably, there was a vocal minority of frothing fanboy dissenters, but their rather tragic – and in many cases, dubious - refusal to accept change is totally at odds with the progressive ethos of this ever-evolving institution. Whittaker’s highly-anticipated first season is one of the biggest TV events of the year. She’ll doubtless be great, but let’s hope that the new production team – helmed by showrunner Chris ‘Broadchurch’ Chibnall – do her justice.

It’s time, finally, to meet the 13th Doctor. BBC One, October. PW

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CINEMA BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY This biopic of Queen frontman Freddie Mercury endured a notoriously troubled production. Original star Sacha Baron Cohen left after creative disagreements with producers Brian May and Roger Taylor. Director Brian Singer was fired due to allegedly unprofessional behaviour and replaced by Dexter Fletcher. Can a good film emerge from such upheaval?

Rami Malek is a convincing Freddie lookalike, and the soundtrack can’t fail, but it’s apparently a sanitised account of Sir Fred of Merc’s life. Whatever the result, it’s bound to attract attention. 20th Century Fox, released 24th October. PW

©20th Century Fox

©BBC

©Netflix

Now, what are the chances of this? Breaking Bad, which is widely regarded as one of the greatest TV dramas of all time, gives birth to a spin-off that also happens to be one of the best dramas on television. Astonishing. A prequel based on the life of sleazy criminal lawyer Saul Goodman, alias onetime plucky underdog Jimmy McGill, it peels back the layers of that character to reveal the complex and conflicted man within. The recently ‘dropped’ season 4 of this outstanding tragicomedy, in which sweet Jimmy edges ever closer to becoming amoral Saul, doesn’t disappoint. Netflix, available now. PW

ENTERTAINMENT

DVD SOLO: A STAR WARS STORY

BOOKS ROOM TO DREAM

By David Lynch and Kristine McKenna

This Star Wars prequel received a mixed response when it was theatrically released earlier this year, but it’s not entirely without merit.

Alden Ehrenreich does a decent job of stepping into Harrison Ford’s shoes, but Donald Glover of Atlanta and Childish Gambino fame more or less steals the show as young Lando Calrissian. If you’ve ever wondered what Han Solo got up to before the events of A New Hope, then this sporadically entertaining adventure should satisfy your idle needs. Walt Disney, £9.99 to £26.99 depending on format, released 24th September. PW

DVD HEATHERS Available on Blu-ray for the first time, this twisted teen comedy classic stars Winona Ryder and Christian Slater as a pair of dysfunctional high school lovers. Ryder stars as Veronica, a popular student who begins to question her involvement with an elitist clique – the other three members are all called Heather – when a rebellious maverick (Slater, obviously) explodes into her life. Things just get darker from there. Despite being 30 years old, this acidic satire will remain relevant for as long as teenagers and society exist.

Arrow Video, £14.99, released 10th September. PW

E

veryone’s favourite mysterious Montana-born film director, David Lynch is perhaps best known for cult oddities Blue Velvet and Twin Peaks. Room to Dream is his suitably eccentric memoir.

Its format is unusual: New York Times and Vanity Fair journalist Kristine McKenna has joined literary forces with Lynch to produce an intriguing call and response book. McKenna writes one chapter and Lynch provides commentary directly afterwards. Perhaps unsurprisingly, Lynch’s words wend their way whereas McKenna’s are clean and linear. Like, for instance, Neil Young, David Lynch is well aware of his own enigmatic status and is cussedly reluctant to ruin it.

He owns up to a love of gore, stating, “what the average person sees as grotesque isn’t grotesque to me”, neatly getting the blood and guts stuff out of the way while acknowledging his status as outside the norm.

There are motions towards his inner directorly and personal workings: he admits to being “sick, just sick” after making Dune and credits meditation for saving him.

Anyone looking for retro-goss about Lynch’s ex-lover Isabella Rossellini will be disappointed: Room To Dream is revealing in places in its own way, but not sensationalist. Yet by the end, we still don’t know all that much about the famously indecipherable Lynch: which is a kind of credit to everyone involved. JJ Canongate Publishers, £25 hardback and £16.99 paperback, available now.

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FOOD & DRINK

LUNCH AT TA TA BELLA’S

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estled at the end of Paisley High Street, opposite the Museum, tea room Ta Ta Bella’s is a delightful grotto offering a fine array of morning and afternoon treats.

The first thing you notice as you enter is the colourful yet tasteful décor. It combines rustic northern tea room charm with a vaguely bohemian bent: Alan Bennett meets subtle hippie chic.

Hand-painted cabinets are pleasingly arranged with quirky little ornaments. The walls are carefully adorned with works from local artists. Once you’ve savoured what the menu has to offer, you can browse these arts and crafts to purchase whatever you fancy.

If the sun is out – and the weather sometimes surprises us during Autumn – you can even enjoy a breakfast or lunch in the pretty high-walled garden downstairs.

So what’s on the menu? Homemade soups, rolls, sandwiches, toasties, baked potatoes, cakes and biscuits are Ta Ta Bella’s

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tasty stock in trade. In keeping with the café’s aesthetic, vegetarian and vegan options are available.

During our visit, I availed myself of a delicious platter of bite-sized savoury cheese sandwiches (£3.50/£4). My heroic luncheon buddy polished off the magnificent three-tiered afternoon tea speciality (£12.95), which includes toasted cheese, sandwiches, scones and homemade mini desserts. It’s literally a tall order, but you can take your leftovers home if you can’t go the distance. All of this can, of course, be washed down by a variety of teas, coffees or soft drinks of your choice.

The service couldn’t be faulted. Ta Ta Bella’s is a welcoming, unpretentious, family-friendly eatery with a naturally quirky twist. It manages that rare distinction of appealing to all ages, without ever trying to please everyone at once.

Ta Ta Bella’s is open from Monday to Saturday, 9am to 4pm.

63 High Street, Paisley. 0141 887 0742.

Photography by Murdoch Ferguson

Take some afternoon tea in the company of Paul Whitelaw and a larder full of goodies.

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DINNER AT ZAMBRETTO Paul Whitelaw lives la dolce vita in one of Renfrewshire’s best Italian restaurants

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he Zambretto chain of Italian restaurants consists of two establishments in the centre of Paisley. They offer the same menus and service, so if you’re unfamiliar with the town and don’t fancy navigating the mysteries of the High Street, you’ll easily find one of their branches just two minutes from your arrival at Paisley Gilmour Street Station.

That’s the branch I opted for on an early Saturday evening, just as this deservedly popular and rather classy hotspot was entering its busiest time of the week. Zambretto is an immediately relaxing environment, bathed in deep browns and warm maroons. Unobtrusive music plays quietly in the background. A baby grand piano suggests a touch of Classic American Songbook élan. Restaurants of this nature often overdo such details, but Zambretto gets it just right.

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The clientele included a comfortable mix of couples and families with young children. I dined alone, but didn’t feel out of place. It’s a nice environment. The staff are friendly, attentive but never overbearing.

I ordered a small, pleasant glass of house white wine (£4.20), a starter of traditional bruschetta (£4.95), which didn’t scrimp on the zesty mound of fresh cherry tomatoes and onions, and a main course of Penne Arrabiata (£8.95). The latter was delicious and supremely filling; a not-too-creamy, not-too-rich feast of spicy tomato, chilli sauce and red onion.

As with most enterprising restaurants these days, Zambretto provides several vegetarian and vegan options. Carnivores and herbivores can happily munch side by side, without fear of a violent exchange of blows. That’s all I ask for from a restaurant.

They also offer child-friendly and late-night take-out menus.

They’ve got it all covered.

You can find Zambretto at 38 High Street, Paisley, and at 42-46 Old Sneddon Street, Paisley. 0141 840 4404 and 0141 889 2727. zambrettoitalian.com.

Photography by Murdoch Ferguson

FOOD & DRINK

DISTRIBUTION

Where to pick up your copy of Mill PAISLEY Abbey Mill Business Centre 12 Seedhill Road, PA1 1JS Black & Lizars 6 New Street, PA1 1XY Blend Coffee Lounge 25b Causeyside Street, PA1 1UL Bull Inn 7 New Street, PA1 1XU Cafe Lusso 4 School Wynd, PA1 2DB Cardosi Espresso Bar 65 High Street, PA1 2AS Courtyard by Marriott Marchburn Drive, Glasgow Airport Business Park, PA3 2SJ Claire Reid Hairdressing 7 Mill Street, PA1 1LY Elixir Lounge, Upper Floor 12 New Street, PA1 1XY Ethos Hair & Beauty Unit 2 Brown’s Lane, PA1 2JH Eve Spa 11 Christie Street, PA1 1NB Feel the Groove 48 Causeyside Street, PA1 1YH Fullerton Chiropractic 7 Neilston Road, PA2 6LL Gael Interiors 4 Orchard St, PA1 1UZ Graphic Hair Design 67 Glasgow Road, PA1 3PD Grumpy Monkey 22 Moss Street, PA1 1BA Houston Kiltmakers 67 High Street, PA1 2AY Iain Stewart Hairdressing 97 Causeyside Street, PA1 1TU Incube Shop 9b Gilmour Street, PA1 1DG Ivad Gifts 95 Causeyside Street, PA1 1TU Ivad Gifts 29 Gauze Street, PA1 1ES Jam Jar 16 Shuttle St, PA1 1YD John McKay Jewellers 53 Moss Street, PA1 1DR Kaoss Hair & Beauty 29 Gauze Street, PA1 1ES Kenneth Edwards 45 Causeyside Street, PA1 1YN La Banca 63 Neilston Rd, PA2 6NA Lagoon Leisure Centre 11 Christie Street, PA1 1NB

Lixie Boutique 14 New Street, PA1 1XY Mad Hatter’s 39 Gauze Street, PA1 1EZ My Hair Guru 48 Glasgow Road, PA1 3PW Paisley Physiotherapy 13 Old Sneddon Street, PA3 2AG Patrick & Son 52-54 Causeyside Street, PA1 1YH Renfrewshire House Cotton Street, PA1 1UJ Rowantree Café 165 Glasgow Road, PA1 3LF Shoe 52 5 Mill Street, PA1 1LY Soho Salon 35 High Street, PA1 2AF Soho Salon 20 Moss Street, PA1 1BL Ta Ta Bella’s Tea Room 63 High Street, PA1 2AS The Gatehouse Coffee Roasters Benn Avenue, PA1 1JS The Lane 7 Shuttle St, PA1 1YD The Little Coffee Company 28 Causeyside Street, PA1 1UN The White Cart Company 75 Glasgow Road, PA1 3PE The White Cart Company 2 St Mirren Street, PA1 1UA Woodlands Coffee House 44 Glasgow Road, PA1 3PW Zambretto 38 High Street, PA1 2DQ Zambretto 42 Old Sneddon Street, PA3 2AP BRIDGE OF WEIR Cotter Hairdressing Bankfoot, Main St, PA11 3PG Seasons 35 Mains Street, PA11 3NR The Lion’s Paw 1 Morrison Place, PA11 3NU Tulip Hair Design Unit 10, 23 Livery Walk, PA11 3NN ELDERSLIE Elderslie Coffee Shop 11 Stoddard Square, PA5 9AS Hairpod 16A Canal Street, PA5 9AU Romauld SA 29 Stoddard Square, PA5 9AS

ERSKINE Erskine Community Sports Centre Kilpatrick Dr, PA8 7AF HILLINGTON Origin Fitness 22 Earl Haig Rd, Hillington Park, G52 4JU The Experience Montrose Avenue, Hillington Park, G52 4JR

HOUSTON The Paper Shop North St, PA6 7HF HOWWOOD The Boarding House Main Street, PA9 1BQ JOHNSTONE Hairpod 62A High St, PA5 8SJ Johnstone Community Sports Hub Beith Rd, PA5 0JA No. 8 66 High St, PA5 8SG Quality Cards & Gifts 2 Houstoun Square, PA5 8DT LINWOOD ON-X Linwood Brediland Rd, PA3 3RA The Salon 15 Napier Street, PA3 3AJ Tweedie Hall and Library 15 Bridge Street, PA3 3DB LOCHWINNOCH Cucina Minucci 2 High St, PA12 4DA Now & Then 8 Church Street, PA12 4AD RSPB Largs Rd, PA12 4JF

RENFREW Renfrew Leisure Centre Paisley Rd, PA4 8JL Quality Cards & Gifts 17 Canal St, PA4 8QE CK Hair 44 Canal St, PA4 8QD The Hair Boutique 28 High St, PA4 8QP Judy McFaite Hairdressing 29 Dunlop Street, PA4 8PG

If you are a business that would like to distribute Mill, please contact paul@millmagazine.co.uk MILL 65

LAST WORD

PEOPLE

Gus Michael has been a prolifically gigging DJ for over 30 years. Mill meets the man behind the decks.

S

ince buying his first mobile rig in 1986, genial jock Gus Michael reckons he’s worked in every pub and club in Paisley. You wouldn’t expect this groove-spinning night owl to be an early riser, but for the last few years he’s hosted the Breakfast Show on Barrhead-based community radio station Pulse 98.4.

What inspired you to become a DJ? A love of music. I always wanted to find new music, play new music and make people dance.

What does Paisley mean to you? It’s very important to me, it gave me a good career and a very good life. When I first started working in Paisley I used to do a nightclub called Paris, and from there I went to Shuttles on Shuttle Street.

Next door from that was a bar called The Bistro, then across the road you had The Latin Quarter.

Even Toledo Junction, which is now Viennas, I worked there back in the day. I also worked in The Cotton Club and Bar Budda. All very good, fond memories.

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FIRST SINGLE Stray Cats Rock this Town FIRST ALBUM Tenpole Tudor Eddie, Old Bob, Dick And Gary FAVOURITE SONG Stray Cats Runaway Boys GUARANTEED FLOOR FILLER Faithless Music Matters FAVOURITE BAND Stray Cats BEST LIVE GIG Stray Cats LOCAL ARTISTS TO LOOK OUT FOR Zoe Tait aka The Ladybugg, and The Logans

Have you noticed any significant changes in Paisley’s nightlife scene over the years?

The clubs have definitely changed a lot. Gone are the days of the super-club, and I think a lot of that is down to the change in the licence law. Clubs opening from midnight to 4am, that tends not to happen anymore. When I worked in Carnegie’s in Paisley, it had a big show-bar feel. The DJ used to be the star attraction, but also the bar staff did lots of dances and routines. On a Wednesday night in Carnegie’s you were getting around 1,700 people. Any place would bite your hand off for that nowadays.

Tell us about some of the events you’ve been involved with via Pulse… We’ve done the Renfrew Christmas lights, the Johnstone Christmas lights. We also do the Halloween party in Paisley and big events like the Monte Carlo rally in January. We’re very much on the map now.

Listen to Gus and the Pulse 98.4 gang at pulseonair.co.uk.

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