AUTUMN/WINTER 2018
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The STYLE ISSUE
©2015 Harry Winston, Inc. LOTUS CLUSTER by HARRY WINSTON
©2015 Harry Winston, Inc. LOTUS CLUSTER by HARRY WINSTON
171 NEW 171 BOND NEWSTREET BOND STREET LONDON LONDON W1S 4RD W1S 0207 4RD 9070207 8800907 8800 FINE JEWELLERY FINE JEWELLERY ROOM HARRODS ROOM HARRODS LONDON LONDON SW1X 7XL SW1X 0207 7XL 2250207 5976225 5976 HARRYWINSTON.COM HARRYWINSTON.COM
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www.adler.ch
MINE ISSUE 9 AUTUMN/WINTER 2018
CONTENTS COV ER SA I B EN N ETT SH OT B Y B I L L I E SC H E E P E RS AT M A I SON A SSOU L I N E. STYL I N G : A N N A B R OM I LOW. H A I R : L A R RY K I N G U SI N G DY S O N A N D L A R RY K I N G . M A K EU P: ZOE TAYLO R AT JAQ M A N AG EM EN T U SI N G A POTH EOSI S, L E M AT D E C H A N EL A N D C H A N EL H YD R A B EAU TY. J E W E L L E RY: COCO C R U SH C U FF I N 18K YEL LOW G O L D, £18, 100, C H A N EL FI N E J EW EL L ERY. B U R G U N DY L I Q U I D V ELV ET EV EN I N G G OW N , £2, 900 R A L PH A N D R U SSO. COM
2 4 FAL L F O R H E R Sophie Goodwin and Robyn Hamilton’s autumn fashion edit
9 E DITOR’ S L E TTE R Astrid’s obsessed with style 10 N E WS OF OUR WO RL D MINE rounds up the latest in beauty
3 0 WARM W E LCO M E Breathe new life into your wardrobe with Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey’s edit
13 CHAN E L CRE ATE S O U R COVE R LO O K The secrets of our Sai Bennett cover, by Zoe Taylor, makeup artist for Chanel
SU PE R SAI 3 4 The rising star of Britain’s latest and greatest acting generation tells MINE about the thrills and challenges of being an actress on the up
1 6 THE BOLD & T HE BEAU TI F U L Hetty Lintell picks the season’s supreme jewellery trends
CH E CK M ATE 4 8 Browse Helen Seamons’ choice of men’s checks for the season
22 P E TAL PO W E R Fresh floral inspiration by Sarah Royce-Greensill
SM O OTH O PE RATO R 5 2 Go against the grain and enjoy the indulgent ritual of a soothing shave, with an elegantly scented finish. By Jessica Punter
23 MAG I CAL BUR LIN GTON MO M E NTS The world of luxury shopping is enhanced by immersive moments. And nowhere does that better than London’s historic Burlington Arcade
M O D E RN ALCHE M Y 5 4 A look at how London florist By Appointment Only Design’s wealth of floral knowledge is at the heart of a scented candle collection
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MINE ISSUE 9 AUTUMN 2018
CONTENTS CO N TI N UE D
68 TK M AX Astrid Joss digs in at superstar chef Tom Kerridge’s first London restaurant, at Corinthia
BACKSTAG E BE AU TY 8 8 The secrets of Paris Couture Week, by Lucinda Jenkins M AL L E ABO U T TO W N 9 2 What drives the passion behind an incredible fragrance brand? Alice Du Parcq steps into the world of Frédéric Malle
80 JOUR N E YS IN JE WE L L E RY Some jewels will take you anywhere. These deserve only the best destinations. By Thea Darricotte
CONTRIBUTORS R EM I B ET ES H A N N A B R O M I LO W T H EA DA R R I COT T E A L I C E D U PA R CQ A L A N A FR A N C I S S O PH I E GO O D W I N R O B Y N H A M I LTO N LU C I N DA J EN KI N S ZOYA KA L EEVA L A R RY KI N G T H O M A S KO C H S H ET TY L I N T EL L NAILSANDBROWS.ME J ES S I CA PU N T ER S A R A H R OYC E- GR EEN S I L L JAV I ER S A LVA D O R B I L L I E S C H EEPER S H EL EN S EA M O N S H A N N A H ST R A FFO R D -TAY LO R G EO FF WA R I N G N ATO W ELTO N
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A LIFE IN COLOUR LONDON HOUSTON A N D O R R A AUSTR A LI A A ZER BA IJA N BA HR A IN BELGIUM CA NA DA CZECH R EPUBLIC FR A NCE GER M A N Y HONG KONG IR EL A ND ITA LY JER SEY M A LTA QATA R ROM A NI A SAUDI A R A BI A SOUTH A FR ICA SPA IN SW ITZER L A ND TH A IL A ND UA E UK UK R A INE USA
FA B E R G E . C O M
@ O F F I C I A L FA B E R G E
F A B E R G É P R O U D LY U S E S G E M F I E L D S C O L O U R E D G E M S T O N E S
EDITOR’S LETTER
PH OTO B Y N ATO W ELTON
STYLE OBSESSED We have long had an interesting relationship with style. It’s a way to express ourselves without breathing a word or making a move. You allow the eye of the beholder to place you, even judge you, with a single glance. Little wonder so many of us obsess over it. Dismiss it as you will, style is an art form; one that brings joy to many and creates millions of jobs. So it’s okay to take fashion and beauty seriously. You’d be a fool not to. What I find fascinating is where the industry currently sits. The changes have been momentous. Gone are the days, when I started on Vogue, when the main luxury style fix was magazines. It certainly made for a straightforward life. Now ‘influencers’ take centre-stage. At first many a feather was ruffled; how I laugh when I think back to how the old-school print lot – including myself – would scoff! But what has emerged are incredible (and credible!) influencers and brands. As a result, magazines have begun to work differently. Collaborations and partnerships are commonplace and we’re better for it. It’s artistically more interesting and creatively more challenging, and that’s how magic happens. I’m proud to have worked with Chanel on our Sai Bennett cover shoot. It’s Chanel. Enough said. However (I can’t help myself) I want to shout from the rooftops how fantastic it is to shoot with the A-team. Having Zoe Taylor, makeup artist for Chanel and one of the hottest on the scene, direct makeup was a sight to behold. Her inspiring talent, showcasing A/W makeup trends, can be seen on pages 13 and 34-46. Sai herself is a modern-day exemplar, playing the fame game off the Instagram books. Being cooked for by the unstoppable chef du jour and London’s latest fancy Tom Kerridge was mind-blowing. I adored experiencing his latest restaurant at Corinthia hotel, which has megawatt style (p68). You’d better hotfoot it there before he’s into the next thing! Less down to earth, more reaching for the heavens, is Hetty Lintell’s bling. See what’s trending on page 16. And for fashion trends we’re graced with the fabulous ex-Vogue retail editor Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey’s take on the essentials that will never go out of style (page 30). Finally, congratulations to my dear friends at By Appointment Only Design on the long-awaited launch of their new scented candle collection (page 54). It brings style to your home, which is what they do best. ASTRID JOSS,
EDITOR
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NEWS
B ROW WOW
We love ‘The Audrey Brow’ package, inspired by the great lady herself. This modern style uses a combination of threading, trimming and brow pencils and highlighters by Beauty Edit Mayfair to instantly lift the face, creating an effortless, natural look. The set includes the Limited Edition Blush Makeup Bag, Brow Setter, Brow Filler Pencil, Brow Lift Highlighter, Styler Brush, Highlighter Brush and Sharpener, and the signature brow reshape treatment The Audrey Brow.
Sweet harmony
Lola Karimova-Tillyaeva’s new holistic fragrance line, The Harmonist, is crafted from her love of philosophy and wellness, and her belief that harmony is the source of beauty. It offers a precious collection to empower individual beauty, bound by pulsations between the five elements of wood, earth, fire, water and metal. Using rare botanical oils to infuse the perfumes with energy, The Harmonist’s elixirs induce a beautiful equilibrium by manifesting status, wisdom, socializing, creativity, prosperity and seduction. Each scent is a sensual and emotional celebration. The latest, Yin Transformation, has flower notes including the rare calypso orchid that provides stability and balance between the wearer’s Yin and Yang. Try it, you’ll be amazed.
£185, nailsandbrows.me
theharmonist.com
OF OUR MINE rounds up the latest in luxury
E VE NTI NG
We’re excited to welcome luxury wedding and event planner Alexandra Pisani to the London scene. Growing up within the elite five-star luxury hotel industry (Corinthia Hotels is owned by the Pisani family), the smooth skill of answering guests’ every whim and need is second nature to her. This unique heritage has given Alexandra a passion for satisfying guests’ expectations and an intuition for the needs and expectations of brides to be. Alexandra focuses on authenticity and understanding. Her experience ranges from LA to Ibiza, Tuscany to Singapore, working with the world’s best suppliers to create dream weddings for her discerning client list. She aims to provide a pure, highly personal experience by working in harmony with her clients’ needs. This grounding in hospitality and international experience gives her an edge that she brings to Corinthia Hotel London as their preferred wedding planner. alexandrapisani.com
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Upgrade your skin care.
Discover Dr Sebagh’s glow-getting prescription for fresh and radiant-looking skin. Say goodbye to dull and tired-looking skin with this deeply rejuvenating glow-boosting treatment. Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh, internationally sought after cosmetic doctor and ‘Ageing-Maintenance’ pioneer, has created this powerfully effective ritual to brighten, smooth, tighten and protect skin using four key products from his award-winning skin care range.
2. In the palm of your hand, mix your own, radiance-restoring blend of the cult Serum Repair, a hyaluronic acid-based skin-plumper to hydrate, firm and repair, and Rose de Vie Serum, infused with antioxidant rosehip oil to nourish, protect and leave skin gleaming.
1. Begin by preparing your skin with Dr Sebagh Deep Exfoliating Mask Sensitive Skin, for maximum glow-getting benefits. For an extra brightening boost, mix with a little of the highly concentrated Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream. This antioxidant-rich, stabilised formula also helps to repair and protect skin against environmental aggressors.
3. Add a dose of Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream to your serum blend for a super-charged, dramatically revitalising, brightening treatment with beautifully glowing results. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com
WI LLIAMAN DSON .COM
The Luxury Destination for Town and Country Living
Chanel creates our cover The secrets of our Sai Bennett cover, by Zoe Taylor, makeup artist for Chanel
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ydration is key to beautiful glowing skin this season. I massaged Chanel Hydra Beauty Gel Crème into Sai’s face, applying medium pressure to get the blood flowing for more plumped skin. Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation N°20 gives the perfect amount of coverage, teamed with Le Correcteur de Chanel N°20 Beige and Chanel Éclat Lumière N°20 to even out skin and add brightness. I wanted this to be all about the lip, so I kept the eyes quite warm and brown and more about the natural contour. I applied Chanel Stylo Ombre et Contour in Contour Clair all over the lid and blended it in to create the perfect shadow base. I love this as it’s both a liner and a shadow, so it’s super-easy to use. I used a little of the warm aubergine colour of Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Tisse Camelia in the socket and the warm matt browns of Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Clair Obscur over the lid. To open the eye, I used Chanel Le Crayon Kohl in Clair in the water line and the amazing Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. The 3D printed brush really makes the lashes thicker and very black. I always apply Chanel Éclat Lumière down the centre of the nose for natural highlighting and a tiny bit around the lips to create a blank canvas for the perfect lipline. Even though this look is ‘kissed off’, I want to make it perfect to begin with, and this helps it last for hours. I always outline the lips, then fill them in completely. Chanel Le Crayon Lèvres in framboise is a beautiful colour. I apply the lipstick using a brush and, with a cotton bud, soften around the edges. This helps make the lips look fuller and is also a more modern take on the classic red lip. Instead of blush, I used Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronze Universel over the apples of the cheeks, to add a bit of warmth. I brushed the brows up with Le Gel Sourcils N°350 Transparent to keep them looking groomed. All makeup by Zoe Taylor at JAQ Management, using Apotheosis – Le Mat de Chanel and Chanel Hydra Beauty
Healthy Glow Foundation N°20, £40
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BOLD & THE BEAUTIFUL
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Hetty Lintell picks the season’s supreme trends
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1 These ‘Idylle Blossom’ earrings feature diamonds and three gold varieties, and can be worn from day to evening. £2,330, louisvuitton.com 2 Sparkle around the room, firing light from all angles, with these ‘Secret Combination’ diamond drop earrings, set in platinum. POA, harrywinston.com 3 This angular modern ‘Mosaic’ pendant – with freshwater pearl and diamonds in 18-carat rose gold – ticks multiple trends. £10,500, boodles.com 4 It’s all about elegance and refinement with this classic ‘Logo’ yellow gold and diamond bracelet. POA, harrywinston.com 5 Cutting fine lines, these angular kite-shape diamond earrings in aquamarine are incredibly wearable. POA, mingjewellery.com 6 These eye-popping ‘Prism’ earrings feature peridots and pear-shaped tourmalines in 18-carat white gold with diamonds. £11,000, boodles.co.uk 7 Quirky angles make these emerald and diamond ‘Luna’ earrings eminently pleasing. POA, graffdiamonds.com 8 Geometric lines make this astonishing piece a statement design that will stand the test of time. The 18-carat white gold ring has one 29.58-carat cushion-cut tanzanite, 9.51 carats of emeralds and 2.31 carats of diamonds. POA, adler.ch 9 This ‘Hex’ ring from the ‘Hexagonal’ collection is set with approximately 2.40 carats of step-cut diamonds and handcrafted in blackened 18-carat white gold and 18-carat yellow gold. £23,000, jessicamccormack.com
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1 These Begüm Khan for Gemfields x MUSE ‘Pharaoh Party’ earrings will make you never want to call it a night. £9,310, gemfields.com 2 From the watch maestros, the Datejust 31 in Everose gold – with a diamond and mother-of-pearl butterfly dial – will have you dreaming all day. £41,850, rolex.com 3 Bling is the buzzword for this awesome ‘jewelled bug’ ring – part of the ‘Enchanted Palace’ collection. POA, garrard.com 4 Bring your ears to life with these carved butterfly wing earrings. White diamonds and Paraiba tourmalines are set in 18-carat white gold. POA, davidmorris.com 5 Be a hit at parties with these ‘Lion Vénitien’ earrings in 18-carat white gold, set with 450 brilliant-cut diamonds and 4 pear-cut diamonds. POA, chanel.com 6 This mesmerising ‘Black Sea Serpent’ ring – in yellow and white gold and silver – is accentuated by blue sapphires and highlighted by opals. £36,370, faberge.com 7 Brooches are back! Capture attention with this adorable diamond gecko number, with diamonds and emeralds. POA, graffdiamonds.com 8 Part of the ‘Memories’ collection of delicate bracelets, this lion creation is perfect for animal lovers of all ages. £695, kiki.co.uk 9 This ‘Mythology beetle’ pendant in 18-carat yellow gold, citrine, sapphire and diamond will be your new best friend. Add to your collection and stack them as charms. £2,800, annoushka.com 10 This ice-cool ‘Polar Emotion’ watch is crafted from white gold, wood and mother-of-pearl marquetry: fifty hours of astonishing work. £70,000, piaget.com
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1 Celebrating the beauty of a pink cultured pearl, this ‘Brocéliande’ ring is 18-carat white gold with one pink cultured pearl and 2.86 carats of diamonds. POA, adler.ch 2 Adorn yourself with this ‘Pompon’ necklace in 18-carat white gold and yellow gold, set with golden and white pearls and 9.47 carats of diamonds. POA, adler.ch 3 You’ll be dripping in pearls with this heavenly Akoya double-sided necklace. Onyx, mother of pearl and white diamonds in 18-carat white gold. POA, davidmorris.com 4 Mother-of-pearl brings your wrist to life, as with this dainty-dialled ‘Symphonette’ watch. £3,110, longines.com 5 A chic twist on the trend, these 18-carat yellow gold and white mother-of-pearl and pavé diamond earrings are from the ‘Lunaria’ collection. POA, marcobicego.com 6 Pearls give tassels a facelift, and you’ll be rejuvenated by these iridescent ‘pearl tassel’ earrings. Baguette-cut and round white diamonds add sparkle. POA, garrard.com 7 Coco said never over-accessorise, but make an exception for this ‘Les Pearles de Chanel’ ring. Set in 18-carat white gold, with brilliant-cut diamonds, one South Sea cultured pearl and Japanese cultured pearls. POA, chanel.com 8 A pretty twist on the classic pearl earring, these white gold pearl and diamond drop beauties are perfect for a bride on her big day. £1,300, kiki.co.uk 9 A party for your earlobes, these flamboyant ‘Electric Seahorse’ earrings are a fun way to sport the pearl trend. POA, sattamatturi.com 10 Pearls meet rubies on these jam-packed teardrop earrings by Nancy Newberg for Gemfields x MUSE. £6,770, gemfields.com
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JEWELLERY
Harry Winston Lily Cluster Collection POA, harrywinston.com,
Fresh floral inspiration, By Sarah Royce-Greensill
F Fabergé Flower Bouquet Chandelier Earrings, £189,400, faberge.com
rom Fabergé to JAR, and from Verdura to Van Cleef & Arpels, flowers have inspired jewellers for generations. Charlotte de la Tour’s 1818 book Le Langage des Fleurs was translated into English in 1820, setting the stage for a flurry of Regency-era floral jewels. The trend continued into the Victorian era, blossomed during the advent of Art Nouveau and continues to influence designers today. The meanings associated with flowers, given as gestures of love and affection, chime perfectly with the symbolism held by pieces of precious jewellery. And flowers bloom throughout the house of Harry Winston, whose creations are inspired by forget-me-nots, sunflowers and, in the case of this sautoir (left), lilies. The Lily Cluster collection takes its shape from the flower in bloom, with a graphic motif that originated in a 1940s design from the house’s archive. The collection ranges from delicate pave diamond rings, bracelets and pendants – whose airy openwork makes them understated enough for everyday – to dramatic, red-carpet pieces. In an engagement ring, the petals intertwine around a brilliant-cut diamond. And the sautoir – a finely crafted gold chain, punctuated by sculptural openwork petals and clusters of brilliant-cut stones – effortlessly bridges the gap between everyday and evening wear. With 240 diamonds totalling 1.53 carats, it’s an elegant yet playful ode to flapper style that works as well with cashmere as it does with couture.
Chaumet Laurier necklace in 18-carat white gold paved with diamonds totalling 8.63 carats, POA chaumet.com
Chaumet Hortensia ‘Eden’ ring in 18-carat yellow gold with brilliant-cut diamonds and tiger’s eye £8,230, chaumet.com
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Fabergé Forget Me Not Ring, £45,500, faberge.com
CHANEL Fine Jewellery Camélia Précieux' Bracelet in 18K White Gold and Diamonds by, £9,700, chanel.com
LUXURY
MAGICAL BURLINGTON MOMENTS
The world of luxury shopping is enhanced by immersive moments that leave you with something to treasure. And nowhere does that better than Burlington Arcade
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ith a million things to see and places to shop, London is undoubtedly aweinspiring. But there is no shopping destination that pulls in all the essential elements like Burlington Arcade. Between Bond Street and Piccadilly, it’s just inside London’s most glamorous and historic quarters: Mayfair. As one of the world’s oldest and most celebrated arcades, it knows a thing or two about the art of shopping. Founded in 1819, Burlington Arcade was one of the most luxurious Georgian shopping destinations, adored by royalty and British high society. It even set ‘rules of conduct’ that were upheld by smartly dressed ‘Beadles’, who guard both gated entrances in the same uniform today. As grand and pristine as it was two hundred years ago, the arcade flourishes as a hub of sought-after brands. Visitors come to seek out the best of everything, but also for its uniquely historic and wonderfully British shopping air. As one glides along
the marble floors, protected by covered arches, you feel all the comforts of being indoors yet the freedom of being outside. Brands such as Chanel, La Perla, Maison Michel, Strathberry, Eres, Kwanpen, Bell & Ross, Fredric Malle, Roja Parfums, Kilian and Manolo Blahnik are all at your disposal. Suzanne Lovis, Michael Rose Jewellery and Hancock’s have some of the most exquisite collections of vintage jewellery and luxury accessories, carefully curated from years of experience. The chic cafe Ladurée and even a shoe-shiner are on site. It’s a place where people with stories do business, and where tradition is as much a priority as craftsmanship, individuality and bespoke service. With all that in mind, we’re thrilled that, in March, the arcade will invite guests to browse the exclusive limitededition Burlington Moments collections, with products created to celebrate its past two hundred years. Watch as the Arcade showcases what it’s best at: delivering the ultimate brands in the most magnificent of spaces. @burlingtonarcade 23
FA L L F O R
FA S H I O N F O R H E R
B y So p hi e Goodwin and Robyn Ham ilton
Bag, £1,455, Chloe at matchesfashion.com
Blouse, £975, Dolce & Gabbana at farfetch. com
Skirt, £690, Max Mara at farfetch.com
Bag, £1,920, Mark Cross at matchesfashion. com
Coat, £2,510, Givenchy at farfetch.com
Shoes, £240, Loq at net-a-porter.com
BE AUTI FU L CR EATU R ES Shoes, £525, Malone Souliers at matchesfashion.com
Skirt, £1,270, Attico at neta-porter.com
HAIDER ACKERMANN
Jacket, £219, Ganni at farfetch.com Earrings, £70, Kenneth Jay Lane at net-a-porter.com
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HER
Trousers, £2,230, Gucci at matchesfashion.com
Coat, £3,250, Loewe at neta-porter.com
Dress, £2,405, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC at net-a-porter.com
H EL L FO R LEATH ER
PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI
Bag, £1,250, Marni at matchesfashion. com
Skirt, £2,090, Fendi at farfetch.com
Boots, £750, Aquazzura at farfetch.com
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Bag, £2,500, Gucci at matchesfashion.com
FA S H I O N F O R H E R
Dress, £3,432, Rochas at matchesfashion. com
Necklace, £946, Oscar de la Renta at matchesfashion. com
Cape, £1,548, For Restless Sleepers at matchesfashion.com
CHANEL
L I FE ’S R I C H TA PESTRY Boots, £1,025, christianlouboutin.com
Bag, £160, Staud at matchesfashion. com Skirt, £2,158, Rochas at matchesfashion. com Jacket, £980, Trousers, £895, both Preen by Thornton Bregazzi at matchesfashion.com
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Yes, our large, midnight-blue moon phase is beautiful. Yes, the detailed moon and stars are a joy. But are they useful? Not really. Sometimes, even for Swiss watchmakers, beauty and joy are enough.
Artelier Grande Lune, Date Diamonds
Visit the Oris ‘pop-up’ store 41 South Molton Street London W1K 5RP
RAZANALAZZOUNI.COM
FA S H I O N F O R H E R
Mules, £475, Malone Souliers at net-a-porter.com
Blouse, £850, Roksanda at farfetch.com
Skirt, £570, Ann Demeulemeester at net-a-porter. com
Clutch, £1,260, Bottega Veneta at matchesfashion.com
Dress, £1,095, Galvan at farfetch.com
Clutch, £3,150, The Row at matchesfashion.com
Dress, £795, Saloni at matchesfashion. com
SM O O TH A S SATI N
CELIA KRITHARIOTI
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Heels, £795, manoloblahnik.com
STYLE
WARM WELCOME... A new season is upon us – and with it the anticipation and excitement of breathing new life into our wardrobes By Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey
FU LL B LOO M Florals are no longer reserved for the fecundity of spring. Round off Prada’s beautiful print with a bold red lip and a stacked velvet heel.
DOWN TO E ARTH
FLORAL SILK DRESS, £1,995, PRADA.COM
DRESSING FOR DAYTIME...
A broad new palette of neutrals now includes mustards and earthy tones. Fendi’s cropped trousers will show off the last hint of a summer tan. And, come party season, they can be paired with a simple silk shirt or embellished jacket. CADY TROUSERS, £550, FENDI AT MATCHESFASHION.COM
JENNY RUFFLED FLORALPRINT SILK-CREPE TOP, £255, RIXO LONDON AT NET-A-PORTER.COM
C H EC K MATE S CABLE KNIT CARDIGAN, £595, BY MALENE BIRGER AT NET-APORTER.COM
If heritage tweeds, tartans and checks leave you uncertain, take a leaf out of REDValentino’s book. This cape is practical for on-the-move, and chic, thanks to a high neck, doublebreasted front and scalloped edges. WOOL-BLEND CAPE, £825, REDVALENTINO AT NET-A-PORTER.COM
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MA J O R CO R DS Suits have not lost their clout. They’ve gained momentum – and new fabrics are adding to their potency. Jigsaw’s corduroy double-act makes for a real head-turner, in and out of the boardroom. JACKET, £190, TROUSERS, £120, JIGSAW-ONLINE.COM
TE A TI M E All those tea dresses we met over the summer mean it’s refreshing to return to simple block colours. Powder-blue is a fantastic year-round staple: pair it with aubergine and claret tones for winter, and reunite it with soft pinks and yellows for spring/summer. SHIRT DRESS, £180, BIMBAYLOLA.COM
RIBBED-KNIT WOOL CARDIGAN, £775, STELLA MCCARTNEY AT MATCHESFASHION. COM
SILK BLOUSE, £225, LKBENNETT.COM
RACE RUNNER TRAINERS, £455, BALENCIAGA AT MATCHESFASHION.COM
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AN I MAL MAG I C Leopard, tiger, zebra… the new season has all manner of animal prints. Temperley London’s day dress is beautifully elegant: its longer length and twisted neckline make it work for both city life and winter holidays. WILD CAT MIDI DRESS, £695, TEMPERLEYLONDON.COM
HEX ORANGE SAPPHIRE RI NG, £15,500, JESS ICAMCCORMAC K.COM
LEATHER SHOULDER BAG, £850, LOEWE AT NETAPORTER.COM
FAUX FUR COAT, £199, JIGSAWONLINE.COM
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STYLE
M O D ER N O PU LEN C E Silk was all over the catwalks – but, if a full dress is a step too far, opt for this bold dose of Gucci, the brand that owns the silk scarf look. It has year-round appeal and can be paired with jeans or dungarees. SILK SHIRT, £1,340, GUCCI.COM
In re eos ut ratas exer ibus ex es inctur, odi pid mod quistis.
WOOL AND MOHAIR BOMBER, £1,110, ETRO.COM
PE AR LY Q U EEN Sandra Choi wanted her latest collection to combine ‘an alluring beauty with contemporary freshness’. These pearl-embellished shoes will raise the bar at any cocktail party. SACORA 100 SATIN AND PEARL SHOES, £1,295, JIMMYCHOO.COM
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SKIN Chanel Hydra Beauty Gel Crème. FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.30, Joues Contraste in Quintessence, Palette Essentielle in Beige Clair. EYES Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof in Nero Vulcanico, Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. LIPS Chanel Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Rouge Allure Velvet Extrême in Éternel. JEWELLERY Ruban necklace in 18k white gold and diamonds, £5,700, Chanel Fine Jewellery. FLOWER CROWN By Appointment Only Design
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SUPER SAI The rising star of Britain’s latest and greatest acting generation tells Astrid Joss about the thrills and challenges of being an actress on the up
PHOTOGRAPHY: Billie Scheepers. STYLING: Anna Bromilow. MAKEUP: Zoe Taylor at JAQ Management using Apotheosis, Le Mat de Chanel and Chanel Hydra Beauty. HAIR: Larry King using Dyson and Larry King. NAILS: nailsandbrows.me. LOCATION: Maison Assouline
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OFT and sweet is the impression I was left with after a day on set with Sai Bennett. As she sat in hair and makeup, with a large and rather busy crew fussing around and over her, she seemed more concerned with checking that I was okay each time I passed by than with her own affairs. Unusual for any kind of talent on any sort of set. I couldn’t quite work it out at first. As lovely and warm as all the actors I have come across are, absolutely none have ever bothered that much with the wellbeing of their surrounding teams. Sai is very different: blessed with a genuine interest in others yet professional to the max. She’s really quite magnetic. ‘My parents said I was a hugely dramatic child,’ she grins, half proud and half amused by wild antics that often ended in A&E. ‘I wonder if there was some burning desire within to perform from an early age? I mean, they had very normal jobs: my father was in the Army and my mother was a nurse. So acting, as an occupation, never even occurred to me.’ But for all this grounded upbringing, her parents were, she admits, ‘slightly hippy’. Calling your child ‘Sai’ is hardly run-of-the-mill and was even less so all those twenty-eight years ago. So, when she was scouted by a model agency at thirteen, they were ‘very supportive’, seeing it as an opportunity to travel, meet people and have the world open up to her. ‘Earning money at such a young age was amazing. But, by sixteen, the novelty had worn off. I suddenly realised how insecure the industry had made me. I was getting adult modelling jobs and being expected to behave like an adult… and I wasn’t ready to be judged in that way.’ A poster-child for ‘what doesn’t break you, makes you’, Sai says the combination of rejection, then developing self-acceptance, was the best preparation for her organic entry to the world of acting. ‘It was as simple as a friend who was directing a film in London asking if I wanted to take part. Much like modelling, I thought, “Why not give it a go?” I have learnt that being a ‘yes’ person has helped me find my feet, one way or another.’ Acting, Sai tells me, is ‘dangerous’. Noticing my look of mild bemusement, she laughs. ‘I cannot imagine doing anything else! The worry is to keep going and stay on top.’ This occupational hazard is no doubt stressful so I wonder what the real benefits are. Different actors say different things. Fame and fortune? None admit to that, but you can usually read between the lines. With Sai, however, I can detect nothing other than an earnest
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SKIN Chanel Hydra Beauty Gel Crème. FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.30, Joues Contraste in Quintessence, Palette Essentielle in Beige Clair. EYES Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in Unique, Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. LIPS Chanel Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur Mat in Impact. DRESS Black silk chiffon and organza flower tulle, with a fitted corset, POA, suzanneneville.com
“I WAS BEING EXPECTED TO BEHAVE LIKE AN ADULT, AND I WASN’T READY”
SKIN Chanel Hydra Beauty Gel Crème. FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.20, Joues Contraste in Quintessence, Palette Essentielle in Beige Clair. EYES Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof in Nero Vulcanico, Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. LIPS Chanel Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Rouge Allure Velvet Extrême in Éternel. JEWELLERY Coco Crush cuff in 18k yellow gold, £18,100; Coco Crush ring in 18k Yellow Gold, £3,080, both Chanel Fine Jewellery. DRESS Black off-shoulder jumpsuit embroidered with full feather overcoat, POA, ashistudio.com
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SKIN as opposite. FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder No.20, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.20, Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronze Universel. EYES Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Tisse Camelia, Les 4 Ombres in Clair Obscur, Stylo Ombre et Contour in Contour Clair, Le Crayon Kohl in Clair, Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir, Le Gel Sourcils Transparent. LIPS Chanel Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Le Crayon Lèvres in Framboise, Rouge Allure Velvet Extrême in Ideal. JEWELLERY Cuff, as opposite. DRESS: Burgundy liquid velvet evening gown, £2,900, ralphandrusso.com
“YOU HAVE TO CONSTANTLY EXPLORE YOURSELF TO PROJECT DIFFERENT CHARACTERS” 39
love of the craft. Perhaps because she never attended drama school, awe strikes her at every level. ‘As every acting part is different, you have to constantly explore yourself in order to project different characters. Having read the script on [British TV series] Mr Selfridge, I was fascinated to see how each actor would play out their own role. Sometimes it wasn’t how I imagined it. So I really took the time to examine why different actors would perform as they did.’ Winning the role in Mr Selfridge – as shop girl Jessie – was, she says, ‘huge for me. I’ll never forget my audition. When I finished my lines, the room went quiet. So I pretended to exit the room as if I was walking down imaginary stairs. They burst out laughing. I realised then that, beyond your talent, making people laugh and being a nice person is essential. People want to work with people they like.’ Not one to stay still, she moved on to accept a role in the 2014 crime drama The Face of an Angel, based on the Amanda Knox case. It provided an
“I HAVE LEARNT THAT BEING A ‘YES’ PERSON HAS HELPED ME FIND MY FEET” incredible opportunity to act alongside the likes of Kate Beckinsale and Daniel Brühl, not to mention being directed by Michael Winterbottom. The level of expertise was at a personal high for her. So, in a world where – by her own admission – you have to keep on climbing, what’s next? Awaiting the launch of the drama Hurt by Paradise, written and directed by the young actress and poet Greta Bellamacina, she remains totally enthralled with the experience of filming it. Based on the life of a young London poet struggling to be taken seriously (played by Bellamacina herself), and also starring Camilla Rutherford, it features Sai as the heroine’s best friend. That Bellamacina should have chosen Sai for her feature film directorial debut reflects wonderfully on both of them. ‘Without stating the obvious, it’s a very artistic and feminine film and just so passionate and beautiful,’ Sai marvels. ‘I got totally swept up in it and, as a result, felt that I was able to give my best work.’ As her star rises, I wonder how the fame game and social media affect her. ‘Well, I want to delete my Instagram at least once a week!’ she exclaims. ‘The lines are so blurred now with reality TV stars that everything has shifted in terms of what’s acceptable. Actors’ lives are more exposed than ever, with people almost feeling they have a right to know what goes on behind the scenes – literally. I feel that makes it harder for people to believe in the on-screen roles over the person playing them.’ Soft and sweet she may be, but Sai is nobody’s fool and incredibly refreshing. As a great ambassador for England’s latest acting generation we can only hope for many more like her to follow. Sai Bennett is represented by Storm Artists, stormmanagement.com
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SKIN CHANEL Hydra Beauty Gel Crème. FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder No.20, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.20, Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronze Universel. EYES Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Clair Obscur, Le Crayon Yeux in Brun Teak, Stylo Ombre et Contour in Contour Clair, Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. LIPS CHANEL Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur in Impact, Le Crayon Lèvres in Nude. JEWELLERY Coco Crush ring in 18k yellow gold, £3,080; Coco Crush necklace in 18k yellow gold and diamonds, £3,500, both Chanel Fine Jewellery. DRESS Cochella burgundy sequin dress, £1,565, emiliawickstead.com
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SKIN Chanel Hydra Beauty Gel Crème. FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.20, Joues Contraste in Quintessence, Palette Essentielle in Beige Clair. EYES Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in Unique, Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. LIPS Chanel Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur Mat in Impact. DRESS Ray sequin gown in gold, £2,295, temperleylondon.com
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SKIN Chanel Hydra Beauty Gel Crème. FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.20, Joues Contraste in Quintessence, Palette Essentielle in Beige Clair. EYES Chane Stylo Yeux Waterproof in Nero Vulcanico, Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. LIPS Chanel Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Rouge Allure Velvet Extrême in Éternel. JEWELLERY Ruban necklace in 18k white gold and diamonds, £5,700, Chanel Fine Jewellery. DRESS Camila dress, £1,410, toryburch.co.uk
“I WAS A HUGELY DRAMATIC CHILD. I WONDER IF THERE WAS SOME BURNING DESIRE WITHIN TO PERFORM…” 43
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SKIN as opposite. FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.20, Joues Contraste in Quintessence, Palette Essentielle in Beige Clair. EYES Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in Unique, Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. LIPS Chanel Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur Mat in Impact. JEWELLERY Plume earrings, 18k white gold and diamonds, £7,900, Chanel Fine Jewellery
“BEING A NICE PERSON IS ESSENTIAL. PEOPLE WANT TO WORK WITH PEOPLE THEY LIKE” 44
SKIN Chanel Hydra Beauty Gel Crème. FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder No.20, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.20, Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronze Universel. EYES Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Clair Obscur, Le Crayon Yeux in Brun Teak, Stylo Ombre et Contour in Contour Clair, Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. LIPS Chanel Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur Mat in Impact, Le Crayon Lèvres in Nude. JEWELLERY: Coco Crush ring in 18k yellow gold, £3,080; Coco Crush earrings in 18k yellow gold, £2,600; Camelia necklace in 18k yellow gold, £10,300, all Chanel Fine Jewellery. DRESS: Liquid beading long dress, £2,995, amandawakeley.com
C O V E R S TA R FACE Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation No.20, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Luminous Colour in Medium, Le Correcteur de Chanel No.20 Beige, Éclat Lumière No.20, Joues Contraste in Quintessence. EYES Le Volume Révolution de Chanel in Noir. LIPS Chanel Hydra Beauty Nutrition Nourishing Lip Care, Le Crayon Lèvres in Bois de Rose, Rouge Allure Velvet in Emotive. JEWELLERY Plume earrings in 18k white gold and diamonds, £5,900; Plume ring in 18k white gold and diamonds, £9,400, both by Chanel Fine Jewellery. CLOTHING Long dress with lace, embroidered with pearls and ostrich feathers, POA, celiakritharioti.gr
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THE WHITEHALL PENTHOUSE TERRACE
LONDON’S 21ST CENTURY GRAND HOTEL Corinthia London combines contemporary flair with traditional grandeur. Situated in the cultural heart of the capital, the hotel features sumptuous rooms, magnificent penthouses, elegant restaurants and the largest, most breathtaking spa in London, ESPA Life at Corinthia. CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON, WHITEHALL PLACE, LONDON SW1A 2BD, UK +44 (0) 20 7930 8181 | RESERVATIONS.LONDON@CORINTHIA.COM | CORINTHIA.COM /LONDON
C H E C K BROWSE our choice of checks for the coming season EDI T E D BY HEL EN SEA M ON S
Jacket, £1,520, Ralph Lauren Purple Label at selfridges.com
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FA S H I O N F O R H I M Camera bag, £620, burberry.com
Jacket, £512, trousers, £219, portsv.com Shirt, £490, Lanvin from harveynichols.com
Suit, £1,350, canali.com
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Key ring pouch, £270, prada.com
Jumper, £375, CMMN SWDN at mrporter.com
HIGH-TOPS, £595, CHRISTIANLOUBOUTIN.COM
Scarf, £175, Alexander McQueen at mrporter.com
Top, £421, qasimi.com
Coat, £795, joseph-fashion.com
Trousers, £470, Dries Van Noten at mrporter.com
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FA S H I O N F O R H I M
Jumper, £350, dunhill.com
TIP: KEEP CHECKS TONAL FOR AN ELEGANT TAKE ON WINTER’S BIGGEST TREND
Coat, £1,450, marni.com
Shirt, £785, Balenciaga at matchesfashion.com
Coat, £2,595, prada.com
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Brush, bowl and modern razor shaving set, see below, marramco.com
SMOOTH Go against the grain and enjoy the indulgent ritual of a soothing shave,
O P E R AT O R with an elegantly scented finish. By Jessica Punter
Brush, bowl and modern razor shaving set, ÂŁ425, marramco.com
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GROOMING
Chrome Cone razor stand, £49, truefittandhill.co.uk
The Morning After and Time Out shaving creams, £20 for 100ml, marramco.com
The Grooming Oil 3-in-1 Shave & Beard Oil, £27 for 50ml, labseries.co.uk Jo Malone London x Huntsman Whisky & Cedarwood Cologne, £120 for 100ml, jomalone.co.uk
Shave cream, £52, tomford.com
Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream 5 x 1.95g, £79, drsebagh.com
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Collezione Barbiere After Shave Balm, £51 for 100ml, acquadiparma.com
From princesses to movie stars, leading London florist By Appointment Only Design has styled the homes and events of the world’s most glamorous and demanding clients. And now its wealth of floral knowledge is at the heart of a new scented candles collection
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PRAYER The familiarity and comfort of incense from smoked patchouli and polished wood, sweet vanilla and tobacco, mingle with leather from an old book. A beautiful stillness descends. Notes: pine needle, cumin, smokey, patchouli, guaiacwood, amber, leather, moss, vanilla, tobacco
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DRAWING ROOM Exotic spices and a hint of oud gently entwine with fresh berries and aromatic Earl Grey. The subtle fragrance of roses drifts in through an open window. Notes: rose, geranium, raspberry, oud, saffron, clove, musk, leather, cashmere
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POWDER ROOM Lying on a lush velvet chaise longue as evening falls, sweet jasmine blends with rose; the scent of amber-rich perfume lingering long after the wearer has left the room. Notes: smokey, leather, rosebud, bergamot, patchouli, guaiacwood, cedarwood, amber, jasmine, rose, lily, amber, suede, sandalwood, musk, leather, vanilla
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RE ATING BE AUTIFUL SPACES suffused with the fragrance of fresh flowers is second nature to By Appointment Only Design founder Javier Salvador. For more than a decade, he and his team have transformed stately homes, five-star hotels, Mayfair residences and centuries-old churches, interpreting the dreams and vision of their clients. Their floral work stimulates the senses, captures precious moments and creates beautiful memories. But whether it’s cosy corners or grand ballrooms, the question of what scent works best where is trickier than you might imagine. And Javier says he created his fragrance collection for the simple reason that they used other brands when dressing events, and none met their expectations. ‘We wanted to create fragrances that could be layered together or used individually,’ he explains. ‘The result is a collection that is unique, atmospheric and infused with our love and passion for flowers. They’re perfect for use at home; in fact, we bring the outside in with these inspirations. ‘Naturally we have been inspired by our many events. Having done so many varied jobs, you learn a thing or two.’ He laughs. ‘I’d be worried if I didn’t! 57
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“THE SCENT OF A WHITE BR I DA L BOUQU ET ”
CUTTING ROOM The long elegant stems of freshly cut lilies; secateurs lying on a wooden table; the sun filtering through a skylight, gently heating tuberose and gardenia heads. Notes: bergamot, mandarin, green leaf, lily, gardenia, tuberose, spice, musk, sandalwood, vetiver
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SUMMER HOUSE Sunlight drenching an English country garden in bloom, with violet leaves and climbing jamine; a long, cooling drink, fragrant with melon and peach. Notes: violet, leaf, cassis, peach, melon, mimosa, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, lily, vanilla, amber, sandalwood, musk
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‘Orangery was inspired by a wedding that we created in Florence. The whole day was so serene and beautiful. And, amid the clinking of cocktail glasses, the smell of orange and lemon groves in the sun gave it that magical edge that every client ultimately hopes for. Scents are the icing on a party’s cake.’ The collection consists of ten fragrances, each presented in Italian crystal. Some are inspired by Javier’s childhood memories of growing up in Mallorca. ‘Powder Room immediately reminds me of watching Mum getting ready for dinner parties, the smell of luxurious perfumes and hairsprays filling the room, while Prayer signifies church pews. As a child I attended church every Sunday. Who knew that, years later, I would be creating a scent to bring back those fond memories?’ Moodier scents include Great Hall, inspired by the Surrey country house hotel Great Fosters; Panelled Hallway, derived from the corridors of Leicester’s Stapleford Park hotel; and Snug, from the cosy corners of such venues. The lighter scents are Summer House, which evokes cut grass and gin and tonics on the lawn; Cutting Room, the scent of a white bridal bouquet; Music Room, which conjures lavender pouring through open windows; and Drawing Room, capturing the passion for afternoon tea of Javier’s Middle Eastern clients. By Appointment Only Design candles: £70 for 300g. A blend of soy and paraffin wax, with a cotton wick. Burn time: 50-60 hours Prayer, Snug, Powder Room and Orangery available from December 15. Other scents available from mid-February 2019. Exclusively at byappointmentonlyperfumes.com and our Corinthia boutique
“CUT GR ASS A N D GI N A N D TON ICS” 61
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“THE SCENT OF A M BER , SPICES, S A N DA LWO O D AND RICH VA N I L L A PR OV I DE WA R M T H ” 9
SNUG Wrapped in luxurious cashmere on a worn leather sofa; flames dancing in the hearth as the scent of amber, spices, sandalwood and rich vanilla provides warmth. Notes: mandarin, cassis, cardomom, jasmine, lily, clove, amber, patchouli, musk, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, oud
MUSIC ROOM The rustle of manuscript paper; fresh lavender in a cut-glass vase, layered with the citrus notes of bergamot; the delicate sound of strings on a quiet Sunday afternoon. Notes: bergamot, lemon, grapefruit, nutmeg, rosemary, lavender, cinnamon, jasmine, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, cedarwood, amber, moss, sandalwood, musk
ORANGERY Delicate orange blossoms, ripening fresh green fruit, purple grapes hanging, with vines trailing. The clinking of glass and ice as whisky cocktails are mixed on a sun-soaked afternoon, doors open to let in the scent of fresh lavender. Notes: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, orange flower, whisky, lavender, petitgrain, jasmine, rose, neroli, grape, amber, musk
“. . . S O S E R E N E A N D BE AU T I F U L� 64
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TK MA X There’s always a ‘happening’ place in great cities such as New York, Paris and Tokyo. In the British capital, right now, that’s Tom Kerridge’s first London restaurant at Corinthia. Astrid Joss digs in
TA S T E
“MUCH MOR E I M P O R TA N T TH A N TOM’S FA M E I S H I S E X PE RT ISE”
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TA S T E The interior design by David Collins Studio is as sumptuous as the dishes at Tom Kerridge’s Bar & Grill
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n its opening weeks, one couldn’t secure a table at Tom Kerridge’s Bar & Grill for love or money. News of the celebrity Michelin-starred chef’s London launch this summer was welcomed with open arms by both the press and the public. It caused a waiting list longer than his list of television shows, which includes the BBC’s Food Detectives, Top of the Shop with Tom Kerridge and Tom Kerridge’s Lose Weight for Good. Generation Now loves the fame game and the restaurant business is no different. With this in mind, Tom has earned his place at the London table. Have we even mentioned his bestselling cookbooks, such as Best Ever Dishes, Tom’s Table and – arriving just in time for the new year – Tom Kerridge’s Fresh Start? But much more important than his well deserved fame is his expertise; particularly his down-to-earth, hearty dishes, always made with ‘real’ people in mind. This is exactly what we want and need right now: no tricks or unnecessary frills – just great stuff, done brilliantly. 4
Tom and his head chef Nick Beardshaw have created a menu that harks back to classic British dishes and traditional techniques, yet guests can expect a culinary experience to rival his Michelin-starred establishments. Tom has a reputation for taking on our celebrated dishes, and the fish and chips is a musttry. The menu features both comfort food and reborn classics, including fresh Cornish crab vol-au-vent with avocado, green apple and crab bisque, a mushroom risotto with crispy egg and aged Parmesan, and a glazed omelette lobster thermidor. A grand nod to the great British roast is made by the rotisserie menu. This, say Tom and Nick, ‘gives huge benefit to anything that normally lends itself to being roasted. Not only does it create incredible caramelization, it also provides a really even cook, from the edge to the centre. With this in mind, we will use the very best quality produce and serve it simply, to allow it to stand out as the star of the dish.’ But what’s all this without somewhere fabulous to enjoy it? The setting itself is half the allure. Everything is delightfully luxurious, with lavish marble floors and grand pillars in a 400-square-metre room. Yet an overwhelming feeling of comfort prevails, courtesy of a clever use of rich dark green and burgundy, with smart leather furnishing. The bar is as sassy as it is stylish and – although we’re all proud to experience this in London (sing it from the rooftops) – it does have an air of Sex in the City-style New York cool about it. Sorry (not sorry).
At Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, the fish and chips is a must-try
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“NO T R ICK S OR U N NECE S SA RY FR ILL S – JUS T G R E AT S T U F F, D O N E B R I L L I A N T L Y ”
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At Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, works of art are on walls and on plates
The artwork is more than worth a mention. Making fine use of the restaurant space, it’s a showcase of thoughtfully curated pieces from London gallerists West Contemporary. Two bronze sculptures – Steve and Dorsal Angel – by Beth Cullen Kerridge, Tom’s wife of eighteen years, are positioned dramatically in the heart of the dining room. Smaller works by her are displayed in an ‘art wall’ that features fellow West Contemporary artists, including painters Chris Moon, Jim Threapleton, Carne Griffiths and Peter Ceredig-Evans, photographer Pascal Barker and sculptor Mark Beattie. London-born mixed-media artist Robi Walters – known for taking discarded objects and making them beautiful – has created signature ‘petal’ pieces for Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, using menus collected from the general public by Tom through his social media channels. These vary from wedding menus and first dates to souvenir menus from all over the world. They’re used on two bespoke tabletops, helping preserve food memories and create new ones. A 4 x 4ft wall piece will be completed by Tom and Robi on-site, and a limited edition print, signed by both the artist and the chef, will be available later in the year. kerridgesbarandgrill.co.uk
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T H E GR E AT BR I T I S H R OA ST OF F Tom’s roasting tips
‘The flavour you get from roasted meats, cooked on an open flame, is like nothing else. That’s why we put two of the best rotisseries in Kerridge’s Bar & Grill. When a joint of meat, or a vegetable, is cooked on a high temperature on a moving spit, it cooks evenly all the way round, giving a really beautiful flavour throughout.
‘I have a couple of top tips for roasting at home. Firstly, sear the beef or lamb in a pan, all the way round on a high temperature. Then put the joint in the oven, again on a high heat, before turning the temperature down for the rest of the cooking time. ‘Secondly, and most importantly, leave the meat to rest for almost the same time it took to cook.
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‘And for the best roast potato, cook the potatoes all the way through in boiling salted water. Remove and lay them on a cake rack to dry, so they form a crust on the outside. Then, when you put them into hot fat in the pan, you’re almost frying the potatoes on the outside – so they become really crispy but still fluffy in the middle. Perfect!’
TA S T E
“ T OM A ND NICK H AV E C R E AT E D A M E N U T H AT H A R K S BACK T O CL A S SIC BR ITISH DISHE S A ND T R A DITIONA L TECHNIQUE S”
Scottish raspberry and rose geranium trifle with white chocolate, gin baba and salted oats by head pastry chef Adam Degg
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JOURNEYS IN Some jewels will take you anywhere. These deserve only the best. By Thea Darricotte 80
Royal Champagne Hotel and Spa, Champillon A wily nineteenth-century advertiser claimed that, on tasting the first champagne, Dom Pérignon urged his fellow monks to join him with the immortal, ‘Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!’ Ever since, stars and champagne have been a natural fit. And this delicate bangle by Jessica McCormack has a sparkle of its own. Wear it at the recently renovated Royal Champagne Hotel and Spa (royalchampagne.com) in northern France. Surrounded by a UNESCO World Heritage site and overlooking long avenues of vineyards, the forty-nine-room hotel has star quality. The style is restrained elegance: clean lines and natural fabrics speak for themselves while neutral tones allow the landscape to take centre stage. French kings once sought refuge here – but, sadly for them, the site then lacked a 16,000-square-foot spa in partnership with Biologique Recherche, panoramic terraces, and a restaurant overseen by two-star Michelin chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. Thankfully, the renovation saw to all of this. There’s never been a better time to taste the stars while sporting one yourself. ‘Star Bangle’, set with 0.65 carats of diamonds, handcrafted in 18-carat white gold and 18-carat yellow gold, £6,300, jessicamccormack.com
J E W E L L E R Y D E S T I N AT I O N S
University Arms , Cambridge After a rumoured £80 million investment, the University Arms hotel (universityarms.com) has reopened with a fresh spirit. Its renovation was overseen by architect John Simpson and designer Martin Brudnizki. Simpson’s work has been seen at Palazzo Grimani, Buckingham Palace and Kensington Palace, and his belief that architecture is a public art that shapes the character of the space in which it sits has won the admiration of Prince Charles. Brudnizki – known for his work at Annabel’s and Sexy Fish in London and The Beekman in New York – has a bolder approach to design, but somehow they made the perfect pairing. Now, classical and contemporary sit at ease with each other; stained glass and wood paneling has been skilfully updated; and sparingly used colour and pattern add modernity. The 192 rooms and suites have bespoke padded-leather writing desks and are bathed in natural light. Hotel restaurant Parker’s Tavern is generating a buzz with locals and visitors, and Tristan Welch – formerly head chef at Gordon Ramsay’s Petrus – has created a menu ‘as flamboyant as I am’ in an environment that evokes university halls. The Aria Half Pavé watch from De Beers shares the hotel’s focus on form and style. Wear it with corduroys and a silk shirt for instant scholarly chic. Aria Half Pavé watch, white mother-of-pearl dial, £9,700, debeers.co.uk
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H o t e l B e l - A i r, L o s A n g e l e s There is a charming idea that you must earn a visit to the Bel-Air (dorchestercollection.com). Amid lush foliage – at the end of a driveway that whisks you past a fairy tale stream, complete with pristine white swans – you find a hotel like no other. It has provided sanctuary to the great and the good of Hollywood since 1946, but this is a hotel that should never be taken for granted. Stay in the Stone Canyon Suite with its limestone floors, natural wood ceilings, deep bathtub, and secluded private pool and patio. With such fantastic creature comforts and the softest of bedsheets, it may seem a chore to venture out. But Wolfgang Puck makes it worthwhile with the finest locally sourced ingredients and a restaurant that oozes distinguished glamour, with its indoor/outdoor setting. Take one of the semiprivate alcoves for dinner and pair your gown with Harry Winston. This sapphire and diamond cluster necklace will twinkle with a discreet confidence that belongs at the Bel-Air. Sapphire and diamond cluster necklace, POA, harrywinston.com
“THIS NECKLACE TWINKLES WITH A DISCREET CONFIDENCE”
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J E W E L L E R Y D E S T I N AT I O N S
Belmond Royal Scotsman , the Highlands With the Mary Queen of Scots movie out early next year, why not sample the best of Scotland with a trip on the Belmond Royal Scotsman (belmond.com)? Travel in cars inspired by Edwardian elegance and lined with mahogany marquetry, with touches of soft Highland wool and tweed furnishings. Tastings at renowned distilleries, clay pigeon shooting, ceilidhs and candlelit dinners form your agenda. Whenever you reboard the train, silver service and flutes of champagne accompany the landscape sailing past your window. And when it’s time to retreat to your cabin, there is a handy call button to ask staff to fill your hot-water bottle. Dinner dress code varies from informal to dinner jackets or kilts. And it’s on one of these occasions that you should wear Piaget’s ‘Lace Decoration’ earrings. Their delicate design is reminiscent of a Celtic knot, while the diamonds will dazzle over a candlelit meal. Extremely Piaget ‘Lace Decoration’ earrings in 18-carat white gold set with 348 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 4.13 carats), £33,100, piaget.com
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D E S T I N AT I O N S
The Romanos, Messinia The Romanos, a Luxury Collection resort (romanoscostanavarino.com), is a decidedly grown-up beachside affair. Its design puts space first and foremost; consequently, communal areas and bedrooms have high ceilings and soothing neutral palettes. Marble and dark wood rooms are linked to the hotel buildings by walkways edged in rosemary and lavender. Pomegranates hang from trees close to a large infinity pool, and split beneath the Mediterranean sun. Entertainment abounds. An aqua park, shops, restaurants, a cinema, golf courses and a 4,000-square-metre spa – with an array of treatments to nourish sun-weary skin – will fill your diary. Concierges are more than happy to book excursions to any of the many nearby archaeological sites. Better yet, charter a sail boat, venture over the glassy seas to an island that resembles a sleeping crocodile and take a dip in the azure waters.
“RUBIES GLIMMER WHILE DIAMONDS FLASH”
At the end of the day, slip into a silk kaftan and this ring from Adler’s Ventaglio collection, which celebrates the fan. An icon in Greece, the fan evolved into a fashion statement and Adler has realised it in precious stones. The rubies glimmer fiercely while the diamonds add a flash of light as you sit for a sunset dinner on the terrace at the aptly named Flame restaurant. Ventaglio ring in 18-carat white gold, set with 90 rubies (6.23 carats) and 387 diamonds (1.14 carats), £12,544 approx, adler.ch
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Your special venue in Mallorca
Making magical weddings in Mallorca since 1960 Tel +34 971 617 745
info@sontermes.com
www.sontermes.com
INSIDER
S NA P S H O T S
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY
The secrets of Paris Couture Week. By Lucinda Jenkins
ROCK ’N’ ROLLER
CHANEL
GET THE LOOK
Haute couture rocks. Givenchy models wore metallic headpieces and Antonio Grimaldi revived the Mohawk, but Chanel stole the show with Sam McKnight’s ‘rockabilly rolls’.
Section the hair to leave the front out. Put the rest in a pony. Slick back the sides and tousle the front. Use Oribe AirStyle Flexible Finish Cream for the sides (£39 for 50ml, net-aporter.com) and Oribe Surfcomber Tousled Texture Mousse for the tousled look (£38 for 175ml, net-a-porter.com).
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GET THE LOOK Use Bobbi Brown’s Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner (£19.50, bobbibrown. co.uk) to paint eyes bold or with a fine flick.
VIKTOR & ROLF
FEARLESSLY FINE
Nothing contrasts with haute couture finer than an exaggerated eye. Valentino’s cat eyes were painted jewel shades, Viktor & Rolf kept it black and contained, and Fendi’s feline flick saw a thick wing almost meeting the brow line.
FENDI
DIOR
GET THE LOOK
For natural dewy skin, moisturise and prime. For quick, intense hydration use Dr Sebagh Serum Repair (£69 for 20ml, drsebagh.com) followed by Zelens Velvet Primer (£42 for 30ml, net-aporter.com).
SCHIAPARELLI
NO-MAKEUP MAKEUP Schiaparelli, Sonia Rykiel and Dior opted for this timeless look. Natural, elegant and flawless, its principle is blend, blend, blend. You wear the makeup, the makeup doesn’t wear you.
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GET THE LOOK
Use Armani’s Lip Magnet for the ultimate matte finish (£30, armanibeauty.co.uk) and Tom Ford’s Eye Color Quad in Honeymoon for that purple-hued eyeshadow look (£66, net-a-porter.com).
ANTONIO GRIMALDI
SMOKIER THAN EVER
The smoky eye was more dramatic than ever. Chanel added a hint of emerald; Armani a touch of magenta. Antonio Grimaldi went big and bold with a heavy line beneath the eye and a smoky finish across the lid.
GIVENCHY RALPH & RUSSO
GET THE LOOK
BACK IN TIME
Use two shades to get the contrast. Chanel’s Les 4 Ombres Multi-Effect Quadra Eyeshadow (£44, chanel.com) has a great selection of colours with which to play.
Ralph & Russo’s eighties look – bold lip and bold eyeshadow – really gave the rules a run for their money. Fendi’s razor-sharp winged eyeliner flicked us back to the sixties.
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INSIDER
GET THE LOOK
CELIA KRITHARIOTI
Slick the hair back into an up-do and get creative with accessories, secured with pins.
RISE OF THE ACCESSORIES Tony Ward and Zuhair Murad rocked runways with embellished hairbands and headpieces. Chanel and Givenchy went futuristic and Celia Kritharioti, daring as ever, stuck huge spiked feathers in tight buns.
GET THE LOOK
Wrap elastic or leather around your pony. Tie at the end. Hair by Sam McKnight Easy-Up Do (£25 for 250ml, net-a-porter. com) keeps it in place.
GET THE LOOK
DIOR
For a gorgeous lip, use Estée Lauder’s Pure Colour Envy Sculpting Gloss in Discreet Nude (£22, esteelauder. co.uk).
CHANEL
PEACH POUT Slightly stained glossy lips set tongues wagging. Keeping it subtle in various shades, Armani Prive, Alexis Mabille and Zuhair Murad were all pretty in peach.
POPPING PONIES The ponytail won a new lease of life this year. Dior had it wrapped, Iris van Herpen had it in sections and Alexandre Vauthier kept it feminine and classy under hats.
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SCENT
MALLE ABOUT TOWN What drives the passion behind an incredible fragrance brand? Alice Du Parcq steps into the world of Frédéric Malle
S
ome people, says Frédéric Malle, ‘know everything about me. Others have absolutely no idea!’ If you’re one of the latter, sit back and relish this refresher on the man who revolutionised modern perfumery. Malle was raised by artistic luminaries, broadening his mind with visual and emotional stimuli, and business talents. His father was a film producer, his mother the art director at Parfums Christian Dior. His grandfather introduced the Dior fragrance line with the launch of Miss Dior in 1947. Frédéric learned the techniques of the perfume industry – watching artisans and studying the raw materials – then worked in art direction, photography and advertising for fashion brands. With this insight, he launched Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle in 2000. Just another perfume? No: it changed the entire direction of the industry. All too often, big fashion brands send a marketing brief to a perfume company and one of their expert ‘noses’ composes a scent. It launches to enormous success, and the perfumer – the talent, the wizard, the artist – remains entirely anonymous, ghosted from the triumph (and often not even invited to the launch party). ‘I started my brand with a conviction that we had to do things right, and that perfumery deserved better,’ says Malle. He approached friends and encouraged each to create a scent with no rules and no brief; guiding them with his business acumen
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SCENT
“A scent has to ring true and sexy to me – and if it takes up to a year to complete, so be it”
SCENT
Frédéric’s fans’
PER FEC T SC ENTS
and imagination. Putting their names on the bottles and crediting the masterpieces to their rightful authors, Malle focused on quality, craftsmanship, honesty and talent. What makes him so special is the way he unlocks these skills in his perfumers. ‘I listen and I use my instincts,’ he says. ‘It has to ring true and sexy to me – and if it takes up to a year to complete a scent, so be it.’ Your brand launched in the summer of 2000. What did that feel like?
ALICE
THOMAS
Iris Poudre
Vetiver Extraordinaire
‘At the beginning I really just hoped for the best, because it was so different to what everyone else was doing. Immediately, to my amazement, it was written about by the most important publications – the Herald Tribune, French Elle, Figaro, WWD… – all saying how phenomenal it was. I thought I was famous overnight! There were also jealous people saying it would fail and not make any money. But fame is a funny thing and it takes a long time to understand a new concept. So, as a company, we had this amazing feeling of prominence, but it wasn’t much more. It was going to take a much longer time to percolate so that people would know about us. Today I’m not sure I’m famous! Some people know everything about us. Some people have no idea. So it’s a very scattered public, but a very passionate one. Is that passion flattering?
Always. I’m always amazed when people know us, and thankful when someone wears our scents. There is no better feeling. Without sounding conceited, it does happen quite often, especially in NYC and London. I cross my scents in the street virtually every day! It can be Catherine Deneuve or the most unknown person in the world. The fact that someone decides to wear one of our perfumes has always touched me. When was the last time this happened?
LARRY
HANNAH
Musc Ravageur
Carnal Flower
During Paris Fashion Week. I went to a bistro with a friend and a lot of people smelled of my perfumes. The woman on the table next to us was wearing Carnal Flower. The next day I ran into the head of France Musique, which is the radio station that I listen to in my car, and they were wearing one of my scents!
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“I cross my scents in the street virtually every day! It can be Catherine Deneuve or the most unknown person in the world” It happens so often with Portrait of a Lady. It is a perfume that is so sophisticated, I was not sure people would get it. But I launched it [in 2010, with perfumer Dominique Ropion], thinking, ‘What the heck, it’s one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever smelled. If I don’t do it, no one will.’ Dominique and I thought it would be a vanity project and not enough people would understand it. But, my God, people did. As a person of great vision, how would you like to use that influence?
I would love to work with younger people. It’s time for me to communicate what I’ve learnt over the years. It’s humbling because all of a sudden I’m working with people who listen to me. Colleagues like Pierre Bourdon [the perfumer who created French Lover and Iris Poudre with Malle] are mentors that literally taught me my job. Dominique Ropion and I grew up together so there’s a sense of equality. But younger people look up to me because I made this brand and I’ve been in this industry for a long time, therefore my words have a different weight than with the others. I find that very humbling so I have to be careful about what I say. I have a lot of responsibility now! Younger people have a fresher approach to things we often take for granted. They have a different work ethic. So I’m interested in seeing my business through their eyes. Do any new-wave, niche perfume brands interest you or influence you?
Sadly not! I am more impressed by classical brands, such as Chanel, that have taken the idea of modernity and given their version of it. Many new fragrance brands are mostly run by ex-marketing people that are trying to reproduce our success. But they’re not doing it with the honesty that we have, nor the know-how. They don’t understand that perfumery is a real metier, a real job. My skill is global: I know how to design a bottle, how to make the perfume, how to design an image. I’ve worked with perfumers every day for decades. So in the end it sinks in. You’re like a musician who can play every instrument. You can buy the best studio in the city, but you still need to learn every instrument. Most of these brands are either copying or being taken for a ride by perfumers that don’t give them enough time or don’t have the skills because they’re too junior. I’ve not seen anything recently that I’m impressed by.
Frédéric’s fans
ALI C E D U PARCQ Writing for Vogue, Glamour, Stylist, The Sunday Times, the Telegraph and CN Traveller, Alice has amassed a wealth of knowledge of the fragrance world.
Why do you think perfumery has lost the art of patience?
How did your love of fragrance begin?
We live in a time where people are – it sounds moralistic – a bit indulgent. I hate Twitter because people feel obliged to say something about everything. But sometimes it’s better to remain silent. I find it paradoxical that people put out a very superficial impression of a moment, to a media that is going to stay forever, instead of having a considered thought and writing it in something such as a daily paper. There is too much noise and a lot of it is superficial. It’s better to learn all the techniques, be patient and spend time developing, and wait before launching, at the risk of not being of-the-moment. Because, unlike fashion, perfume is made to stay. I remember my grandfather giving a bottle of Miss Dior to a family friend when she was eighteen. She’s now eighty-five and she still wears it. It defines her. The documentary about McQueen [Ian Bonhôte and Peter Ettedgui’s McQueen, 2018] shows how of-the-moment and exhausting fashion is. When I worked with Dries [Van Noten, in 2013] on his perfume, it amazed him that it could take me up to a year to do one product. I’m sure he thought I was a complete amateur! But unlike the collection he did that year, the perfume is still worn and sold today. It has a very different sense of time. People who get into perfumery today often forget this.
I had a consultation with Guerlain training director Richard Hawkins, to find my wedding perfume. He tapped into my memories of summers at my grandparents’ house in France. All the smells I adore originated in their garden: the steamy-sweet wisteria, the nutty, dusty gravel driveway, the addictive, patisserie-dough warmth of orange blossoms in the evening… I had been subconsciously absorbing those smells for years, and began smelling perfume in an entirely different way. It didn’t matter whether I personally liked a fragrance. What mattered was the creative process, and the perfumers’ instinctive feel for a balanced scent while fusing volatile chemistry with emotion. That’s why people describe fragrance as an art: like a musician, painter, chef, graphic designer or plastic surgeon, a perfumer must understand his tools, use his experience to make each one excel and combine them into a masterpiece that they are proud of, but that isn’t selfish. And know when to stop!
Is there anyone you would love to work with on a new fragrance? I love creating other worlds, so I would love to collaborate with Tim Burton. When I was a child, my family were in the movie business and I went to the cinema quite a lot. To me he is the new Fellini: inventing new worlds that are fantastical and thought-provoking. The first thing I would do is listen to him. Then I would try to go with a completely fresh set of ideas, because my job is to listen and translate. The latest Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Dawn by Carlos Benaim, is out now. fredericmalle.com
What is it about fragrance that grabs you?
Everyone can be part of the conversation.
SCENT
Perfume is an accessible joy that isn’t as discriminatory or judgmental as fashion. A £12 bottle of 4711 is as timeless and magical as a £170 bottle of Creed. Both will make you feel beautiful, attract compliments and possibly get you laid! What are you favourite notes in a fragrance?
Anything powdery: iris root, musks, certain amber combinations, opoponax, heliotrope. Those soft, skin-like, hedonistic and nuzzly smells that make your oxytocin levels explode. What qualities do you admire in a perfumer?
Someone who draws on their experiences for inspiration: childhood, family, love, heartbreak and travels. Real memories and emotions can turn a basic set of ingredients into a hauntingly beautiful artwork that moves people to tears. And the ones who dare to be provocative – Angel, Giorgio Beverly Hills, Obsession, Opium – are icons because they upset the status quo. We all love a bad boy. What does Frédéric Malle mean to you?
He shone a light on the artists who spent years in the background producing spectacular fragrances for brands that reaped the benefits for themselves. It’s because of him that we talk about ‘noses’ today. That shift brought integrity to the ingredients – such as their sustainability, ethics, quality and the extraordinary recipes – and rewarded the many years of hard work, humility and devotion needed to be a skilled perfumer. His breathtaking scents remind us that, in an industry of instant glory and fast-forward fame, there’s no substitute for decades of learning, hustle, failure, craftsmanship and refinement. In Malle’s own words, just because you can make a salad doesn’t make you a chef. What do you enjoy about his fragrances?
I was having a meeting in a café on a really hectic corner bustling with the collective fug of people, traffic and food. Yet there it was, sharp as an arrow: velvety rose and narcotic patchouli. I said, loud enough for the wearer to hear, ‘Someone’s wearing Portrait of a Lady.’ And this stranger and I connected through the utter magnificence of this scent, chatting as if we had known each other for years. It was such a rare moment of appreciation in a busy day. I felt energised. As she left, she said, ‘You have completely turned my day around, I feel incredible.’ His perfumes unite and ignite.
“It’s that feeling of luxury and decadence. The scents are somehow magnetic”
Which is your favourite?
Portrait of a Lady, but I could never wear it. I’m far too messy and chaotic! It is a big perfume that needs someone who is sophisticated, composed and modest. My favourite is Iris Poudre, with its grownup talcum powder elegance and cold freshness. It’s the silk lining of your lover’s tuxedo jacket: safe and handsome, but sexy and mischievous.
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Frédéric’s fans
HAN NAH STR AFFO R D -TAY LO R Hannah is a London-based luxury influencer and model who shares her vision of style through Instagram and her blog.
When did your relationship with fragrance begin?
Making rose-petal scent with my mother at two or three. I remember gathering pink and peach petals from our garden and crushing them with some magic ingredient – and making what I thought at the time was the most wonderful smell. What do you love about fragrance?
It can say so much about who you are as a person. And because the world of fragrance is so immense, with thousands of different scents, you can be unique. Scents smell different from person to person. I often layer them. So it’s a never-ending world to explore. What inspires you to wear fragrance?
I wear it when I’m happy, when I’m sad, in summer or winter, daytime or nighttime. Without it, I feel naked. From my late teens, for about ten years, I largely wore only one fragrance. People would say they would know I was in the room even if they were blindfolded. In my late twenties, I started to wear the odd new perfume that reminded me of periods in the last decade. I find scent very emotive: it gives me a happy, almost déjà vu feeling. In the same way that clothes define my style, the same is true for the fragrance I wear. It’s part of what you express to the outside world. Do you want to smell fresh, alluring or mesmerising? It’s part of the whole picture. What are your favourite brands?
I absolutely love Frédéric Malle – his perfumes are incredibly unique and luxurious. The brand has discovered such phenomenal parfumiers, each with styles that are different to anything you find elsewhere. How did you discover Frédéric Malle?
Purely by chance, wandering through Liberty’s perfume hall with my friend, stylist Simon Robins. We ended up spending an hour trying different fragrances and fell in love with the brand. We both came home with a scent and have been fans ever since.
Frédéric’s fans
L AR RY K I N G Gigi, Cara, Poppy and even David Beckham go to Larry for their precious locks. The king of cool and classic cuts, he knows a thing or two (or ten) about how to wear your hair. How did your appreciation of fragrance begin?
My dad wore Ralph Lauren’s Polo and I would always steal it. Most of my friends would be wearing Joop, Lynx or CK One. Polo made me stand out and people would always ask what it was. It gave me an early sense of style and individuality. What grabs your attention about the world of fragrance?
Working in fashion and beauty means I can see the relationship between fragrance and style. A scent speaks as much as a good pair of shoes or a well-tailored suit. It adds something unique. When do you wear fragrance?
Every day. It’s part of my daily grooming routine and my identity. If I’m on holiday, it’ll be a light summer citrus scent. In autumn and winter, I’ll wear something stronger with warm, smoky notes. It also depends what I’m working on. If my mood is serious or fun and humorous, it’ll affect my choice. What does fragrance mean to you in the beauty industry?
It’s so important. If a client is reminded of me when they smell my fragrance, they remember to book in to the salon, or book me on a job. Fragrance becomes part of your personal branding.
What do you love about the brand?
What isn’t there to love? The packaging, the beautiful notes and the longevity… But, for me, it’s that feeling of luxury and decadence. They are somehow magnetic. But, more than anything, the uniqueness of the scents. Nothing compares to each one. When I was pregnant, my favourite was Eau de Magnolia. But my favourite is Carnal Flower. I love the heady rich scent, which just oozes luxury and warmth and is hypnotic. There’s nothing even remotely similar. hannahstraffordtaylor.com
What importance do you place on your children’s association with fragrance?
I’m conscious that my fragrance is the last reminder in the mornings of me rushing out the door. When I’m off work, I try to do fun stuff with my kids, to make those days count. That’s why I wear a particular summery fragrance: when they’re older, hopefully that fragrance will remind them of those happy days. Do you like your wife to wear fragrance?
Absolutely. We share a lot of fragrances. Some days we even
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CANARY WHARF
BLUEWATER
LEEDS
SCENT wear the same fragrance to meetings, as part of our joint brand. What qualities do you admire in a perfumer?
It’s a real fine art. It’s one thing to pick out notes in a fragrance but the bit that amazes me is their artistic ability to select and mix the undertones that come through in hints, making the individuality of each fragrance.
talents of others in my team, to listen and to give them opportunities to express themselves, so my company and brand are even stronger. When I read the story of Frédéric Malle, it resonated with me; the fact that he worked with all the most talented noses and allowed them to express themselves with a blank canvas – and, more importantly, credited those incredible talents. This is when you unleash absolute magic.
What do you appreciate about Frédéric Malle?
How did you discover Frédéric?
When I set up my business, it was important that I surround myself with outstanding talent. It’s important to acknowledge the
I smelled Portrait of a Lady on a client and asked what it was. It’s such a sexy, sophisticated fragrance and I wanted to buy
Frédéric’s fans
it for my wife. His fragrances are individual and unique. I like that everyone doesn’t automatically know what they are. The fragrances feel timeless but also new and different. And the identity of each perfumer comes through in each one. Which is your favourite Frédéric scent?
Musc Ravageur by Maurice Roucel. It just grabs me and makes me feel amazing and sexy. I also love Portrait of a Lady, which reminds me of the love of my life and Cologne Indelebile, also by Dominique Ropion, for the smell of days off, sun and happy holidays, like being in Capri. larryking.co.uk
greeted by some our esteemed guests by their perfume: magnificent combinations of incense, vetiver and oud. In contrast, our North American guests love notes like vanilla and soft fruits. The French are brave enough to wear spicy statement scents but, as you move down to southern Europe, fresh Mediterranean notes of neroli and citrus are customary.
TH O MA S KOC H S Passionate about hospitality, the managing director at Corinthia Hotel London is known as an international aesthete with a sharp eye for detail.
When did your love of fragrance begin?
I always remember having a sensitive nose, since I was a child. My first memories of scents are all related to being in my grandmother’s kitchen. My first scent was one of her freshly baked cakes.
Do you gift fragrance to family or friends?
If I know a close friend or family member’s signature scent, I might gift a body lotion or hand soap as part of a larger present.
What do you love about fragrance?
It’s so powerful. In less than a second it evokes emotion and memories. With perfume, you can express the way you feel. I love that you can recognise people by the fragrance they wear. A fragrance can define a person.
Are there perfumers you admire?
When do you wear it?
Not a day has gone by since I was fifteen that I have not worn perfume. Leaving the house without wearing a scent would be like forgetting to put on a watch. It’s part of my daily routine. During the summer I opt for fresh and light scents. In winter I prefer more intense and aromatic fragrances.
I tend to be drawn to the old, established parfumiers, perhaps because I enjoy the classics and remember their fragrances from my youth. Names would include Jacques Guerlain, Bernard Chant, Jacques Polge, Bruno Jovanovic and of course Frédéric Malle. What do you enjoy about Frédéric’s fragrances?
The variety. But, more importantly, that each scent is carefully layered and so they evolve as you wear them. I also like the simplicity of his branding and use his red travel spray when travelling.
What does fragrance mean to you both professionally?
How did you discover Frédéric?
In hospitality, it’s important that a fragrance, whether it be from food, beverage flowers, candles or scent, does not overpower a guest’s experience. A fragrance should only ever add to their stay in a subtle and imperceptible way. Scent is hugely important in creating an environment. It sets the mood and helps build an atmosphere. At Corinthia Hotel London, our in-house florist – Javier Salvador of By Appointment Only Design – has designed a bespoke fragrance. Each room has a candle, with notes of sweet orange, lavender and palmarosa to comfort, calm and rebalance guests’ senses. I love scented candles at home too. Do different nationalities think differently about fragrance? Cultures differ in the meaning and importance they attach to the different senses; especially so in the case of smell. Across the Middle East, fragrance is much more ingrained in culture and we are often
By chance, after walking past his boutique in Paris. Once I was instore, I was entranced.
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Which is your favourite Frédéric Malle scent?
I adore the freshness of Vetiver Extraordinaire. It opens with a rich burst of bergamot and bitter orange yet, when the fragrance settles, the nuance of cedar and clove shine through. I rarely like perfumes with musk but here it is so subtle; softening the bitterness of citrus and bringing out the sweetness of pink peppercorn and the vetiver. I also love Café Society room fragrance and frequently spritz it at home. Fragile, with woody notes of cypress, it evokes that ephemeral scent of the living room after hosting a Parisian dinner, once your elegantly scented guests have left. Among the perfumes of the home collection, this most resembles a fragrance that could also be worn. corinthia.com/london