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ON THE COVER
Scott Haugen, a veteran of preparing for fishing adventures to the Last Frontier, says that “planning that summer or fall fishing trip could be just the therapy you need… What you’ll come away with is a thorough understanding of what it takes to successfully catch fish in Alaska.” See details on page 43. (SCOTT
HAUGEN)
CORRESPONDENCE X @AKSportJourn Facebook.com/ alaskasportingjournal Email ccocoles@media-inc.com
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51
SLAMMIN’ SOCKEYE IN THE MAT-SU VALLEY
Washington State-based custom rod builder Chris Wegeleben (left, with father-in-law Ed Heiser) was more than willing to accept an Alaska lodge owner’s invitation to help guide during the sockeye run at Lake Creek, a crystal-clear fishery in the Mat-Su Valley. Mark Fong has the details on how Wegeleben and others loaded up on the reds and tested out a prototype flipping rod.
(CHRIS
18 DEFENDING THE SALMON STATE
Rachel James has quite a wide perspective on protecting some of Earth’s most pristine wilderness – she grew up in Alaska and then spent nearly a decade living off and on in South America’s rugged Patagonia region before returning home. Now conservation group SalmonState’s public lands and waters lead, James spoke to Tiffany Herrington about being tasked to protect fish and wildlife in Alaska for her young son and the generations to come.
27 HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY ALASKA VACATION LIFE
From Field to Fire: Planning an Alaskan fishing adventure; waterfowl
Our Pennsylvania-based correspondent Brian Kelly has been a regular visitor to Southeast Alaska to chase his salmon fishing dreams, and last year his wife Anne joined him on a trip to the Panhandle. Anne recounts the great whale watching, crabbing and halibut angling as well as seaside accommodations they enjoyed on her first Alaska adventure with her hubby.
35 SHEEFISH FOR TWO, PLEASE
Continuing on the Valentine’s Day theme, here’s another husband-and-wife fishing experience. Scott and Tiffany Haugen spent considerable time as teachers in Alaska’s Arctic, and that made getting up to Kotzebue to break the ice and pull up some massive sheefish with the locals all the more special. Scott shares a nostalgic story on turning back the clock.
WEGELEBEN)
Travel can be as simple as a backpack over your shoulder and a thirst for new adventures. Anne Kelly’s first trip to Alaska with her husband Brian was memorable, which the editor can relate to as someone who lives for trips to faraway destinations. (BRIAN KELLY)
EDITOR’S NOTE
Iwas so glad that our correspondent Brian Kelly pitched a story to me that had a different twist to it. He wouldn’t be writing about one of his Southeast Alaska fishing experiences. Instead, his wife Anne would document the adventure they had together during her first trip to the Last Frontier.
“Our first trip together to Ketchikan was simply amazing; Alaska showed off for (Anne) in a major way. Many days of clear skies, breathtaking mountain views and our nonstop focus on looking for whale spouts,” Brian told me.
“We took full advantage of the fresh seafood this wonderful state has to offer,” he added. “Every night we either grilled or boiled something we caught or bought, using the leftovers for a gourmet seafood scramble the next morning with mimosas on the deck of our rental property overlooking the North Pacific.”
TRAVELING TO NEW FARAWAY places became an obsession of mine rather late in my life. Years ago, I did get to see much of the Lower 48 on two cross-country driving trips, but never did I expect I’d get my passport stamped so frequently as I have in recent decades. In fact, I didn’t own a passport until I was almost 40 years old.
In college, I wasn’t exactly swimming in cash – thanks, Dad, for paying my tuition and dorm/apartment costs! – so most of my summers were spent at home doing temp jobs to scrape together enough to buy season football tickets for my school and a little spending money for the next semester.
During one of those breaks, I can’t tell you how jealous I was when I learned that two friends would spend their summer backpacking around Europe. When they got back shortly before school restarted, we got together and I spent a maddening night watching them look at each other’s photos as they made it sound like they had had the time of their lives. But even then, I never made it a point to apply for a passport. That would be another two decades down the road.
Now, as the days go by, I get impatient if I’m not planning my next excursion. I’ve been lucky enough to catch fish in far-flung locations and sample exotic foods and drink local beers from multiple continents. Fittingly, I’ve shared many of those vacations with one of those friends who tormented me back in the day with tales of excitement abroad.
BRIAN’S AND ANNE’S TIME together in Alaska included crabbing on board the F/V Aleutian Ballad.
“This boat was made famous on Deadliest Catch, as it was filmed being nearly capsized by a rogue wave,” said Brian, referring to the popular Discovery Channel series. “This was a bucket-list event for me. I’m a huge fan of the show.”
And that’s what travel can do for us. I never expected I’d feed kangaroos at wildlife sanctuaries in Australia; river raft fast-moving rapids in New Zealand; hold a baby crocodile in Cuba; or ride a reindeer sled in Finland. We should all be so fortunate to have similar adventures.
I’m so thrilled for Anne and Brian to have been able to discover what a special place Alaska is together. -Chris Cocoles
One of the final acts of the Biden Administration last month was to release a report detailing plans to protect 3 million acres of National Petroleum Reserve land that’s home to the Teshekpuk Caribou Herd, an important subsistence resource for North Slope residents. (BOB WICK/BUREAU OF LAND MANAGEMENT)
BIDEN PACKS ON ALASKA PROTECTIONS IN FINAL DAYS
The final days of President Joe Biden’s term before giving way to the return of Donald Trump saw his administration push through as many mandates as it could, including at least one significant for Alaska, as oil drilling and mining could become an even hotterbutton issue for the Last Frontier.
Around the same time that Biden delivered his final official remarks as the commander in chief, his Department of the Interior announced a plan to apply protections to 3 million acres of land within the vast National Petroleum Reserve, located in the Western Arctic region of Alaska, which is home to both natural gas deposits and plentiful caribou and other subsistence resources.
“The report outlines steps the (Bureau of Land Management) will take to protect vital subsistence resources identified by numerous comments, consistent with the agency’s statutory obligations to administer an oil and gas program and assure the maximum protection of significant surface values in the reserve,” a federal press release stated.
Added Laura Daniel-Davis, Interior’s acting deputy secretary, “Fish and wildlife have provided food for Alaska Native people in this region for millennia and, based on the information we received and our legal mandate, we have concluded it is necessary to commence a process to ensure its protection.”
The area’s Teshekpuk Caribou Herd, which in recent years saw an increase in numbers, provides a critical subsistence resource for North Slope Native Alaskans.
Tribal leaders were thrilled with the release of the report and the plan to set aside the 3 million acres. Nauri Simmonds, executive director of Sovereign Iñupiat for a Living Arctic, pointed out that “indigenous sovereignty in these matters is long overdue.”
“Our people depend on the health of the land and animals for not just survival and ability to continue to live on our lands for generations to come, but our cultural identity,” Simmonds said. “We appreciate any movement and help in this matter and don’t want to diminish those efforts or any support given by entities and individuals towards these changes, but this is so little and so very late. Our people deserve more. So thank you to all those who give their time and energy to make these changes happen.”
Simmonds’ skepticism is understandable given the president-elect’s promises to “drill baby, drill” as part of his long and potentially controversial wish list. On the way out the door, Biden’s team tried to limit the drilling in certain places in Alaska, but it’s likely the state will continue to be embroiled in resource debates, from the always hotly contested proposed Pebble Mine, to the for now shuttered Ambler Road project and transboundary mining projects straddling salmon-filled rivers between Southeast Alaska and Canada.
So maybe call this one a temporary victory for conservationists and environmentalists.
“(The Interior decision) followed the science that clearly shows that these areas’ irreplaceable values require maximum protection against harm from oil drilling. This is a model of inclusive, evidence-based land management and a win for wildlife and people,” Earthjustice attorney Erik Grafe said. “The incoming Trump Administration will have an obligation to acknowledge that oil development significantly harms the Western Arctic’s irreplaceable natural values.”
149.6
Fairbanks-area trappers Morgan Evans and Bob Standley brought in a massive wolf that weighed in just below 150 pounds, one of the heaviest wolves anyone can remember taken off a trapline.
AL ASKA BEAT
TWEET OF THE MONTH
In mid-January, while everywhere from Dallas to Atlanta was freezing and snowy, parts of the supposedly frigid Last Frontier were downright balmy, especially that 47-degree T-shirt-and-shorts weather in Fairbanks. Go figure.
Happy Valentine’s Day to this couple who found a home in Alaska!
THE LOVES OF EACH OTHER’S LIVES
Over the years, wife Tiffany and my workload has expanded to include photography, marketing and more. We often work 16 hours a day each, usually side by side when at home. It’s been far from easy, but I would not change any of it. The times we spend together – as a family butchering a whole elk, deer or bear – are experiences none of us will forget. Traveling the world and filming TV shows in Africa, the South Pacific and Alaska were a blessed opportunity. From the time our boys were small, they were hunting, fishing and helping butcher animals.
We got into the outdoor industry at a prime time and just happened to be the team some key companies were looking for. Had we not been able to work with each other all these years, there’s no way I could have done it alone.
One fall, I was home just eight days between the hunting season opener of August 1 and Christmas. Tiff had the hardest part at that time to be home alone with our two young sons. But she always supported me and never questioned the direction we were going.
Each passing year led to more opportunities. When I was on the road, Tiffany was going full speed ahead on her cookbooks, cooking columns and working with many companies in the outdoor industry while developing recipes and
THEY SAID IT
“cooking equipment, even women’s clothing lines.
I fell in love with Tiffany at our first dinner many years ago because of her confidence and zest for seeking
adventure. No challenge is too great for her. Her confidence has never waned, and to this day she’s the hardest-working, most positive person I’ve ever met. -Scott Haugen
“Hunting is a vital part of Alaskan communities, and Mr. Liang and Mr. Phelan unjustly enriched themselves through their conspiracy, harming law-abiding guide-outfitters in our state. I want to thank our law enforcement partners for their dedication in dismantling Mr. Liang’s illegal operations and upholding our conservation laws. Hopefully this sentence, including the forfeiture of tens of thousands of dollars and goods, will deter others from committing wildlife violations.”
”
–U.S. Attorney S. Lane Tucker for the District of Alaska, after Fairbanks outfitter Brian Phelan and Chinese national Jun “Harry” Liang conspired on a guided hunt scheme and were sentenced to fines and probation.
Childhood acquaintances who didn’t really connect until after college, Scott and Tiffany Haugen have a shared love of the outdoors. They are partners for life and partners in sharing their fishing, hunting and cooking adventures and advice. (SCOTT AND TIFFANY HAUGEN)
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OUTDOOR CALENDAR
The popular Yukon Quest Alaska dog sled race is set to begin in Fairbanks on February 1. Go to yukonquestalaska.com for more information. (SEAN TEVEBAUGH/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE)
Feb. 1 Yukon Quest Alaska sled dog race begins, Fairbanks to Tok (yukonquestalaska.com)
Feb. 15 Last day of wolverine season in Game Management Unit 13 (Nelchina/Upper Susitna)
Feb. 21 Draw results of the November 1 to December 16 Draw, Tier I/II and Community Subsistence Harvest application period are expected to be available online (adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=huntlicense.draw)
March 1
Scheduled ceremonial start of Iditarod sled dog race, downtown Anchorage (iditarod.com)
March 1 Finger Lake Ice Fishing Derby, Finger Lake State Recreation Site (scoutingevent.com/610-89884)
March 15 Spring brown bear season opens in GMU 1 (Southeast Mainland)
March 15 Resident spring brown bear hunting season opens in GMU 3 (Petersburg/Wrangell)
March 15 Spring brown bear season opens in GMU 4 (Admiralty-Baranof-Chichagof Islands)
March 22 Homer Winter King Salmon Tournament (homerwinterking.com)
2025 SPORTSMEN’S & BOAT SHOWS
Feb. 1-2
Feb. 1-8
Feb. 12-16
March 7-9
April 11-13
Washington Sportsmen’s Show, Washington State Fair Events Center, Puyallup (otshows.com)
Seattle Boat Show, Lumen Field Event Center and Bell Harbor Marina, Seattle (seattleboatshow.com)
Pacific Northwest Sportsmen’s Show, Expo Center, Portland (otshows.com)
Great Alaska Sportsman Show, Dena’ina Civic and Convention Center, Anchorage (greatalaskasportsmanshow.com)
Mat-Su Outdoorsman Show, Menard Center, Wasilla (matsuoutdoorsmanshow.com)
April 25-27 Fairbanks Outdoor Show, Carlson Center (fairbanksevents.com/fairbanksoutdoorshow)
For more information and season dates for Alaska hunts, go to adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=hunting.main.
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DEFENDER OF WILD ALASKA
SALMONSTATE’S RACHEL JAMES ON HER JOURNEY, PROTECTING LAST FRONTIER’S PUBLIC TREASURES
BY TIFFANY HERRINGTON
From South America’s Patagonian high plains to Alaska’s wild expanse, Rachel James has built a life grounded in landscapes that fuel her resolve to protect the natural world.
As Alaska-based SalmonState’s public lands and waters lead, she champions efforts to preserve the Last Frontier’s treasures – a journey shaped by Alaskan roots, experiences abroad and James’ hopes for her son.
Her passion for safeguarding Alaska’s environment was kindled early through her father’s work as a surveyor in the oil, gas and mining sectors. His insights into
the ecological effects of development projects left a lasting impression. “He shared stories about the changes he saw in the land,” James recalls, “and the importance of accountability in managing these impacts.”
These formative experiences set her on a path dedicated to environmental protection, a commitment that deepened during nearly a decade spent living off and on in Patagonia, where farmed salmon was often her only option. Returning home to Alaska, James now works to protect wild salmon habitats, driven by the vision that her 13-year-old
son – and future generations – can enjoy a lifetime of healthy, wild fish.
Today, James’ leadership at SalmonState is built on fostering unity and collaboration. “We work hard to build relationships that are rooted in trust,” she says, describing an approach often referred to as “moving at the speed of trust.” This philosophy has helped SalmonState cultivate a network of allies across Alaska, uniting diverse communities in the fight to protect sensitive ecosystems. Among their significant achievements, the protection of 28 million acres of D-1
A brown bear eats a sockeye in Alaska. The salmon return to Bristol Bay by the tens of millions each year, and the region is home to essential D-1 lands – Bureau of Land Management parcels withdrawn from potential mining decades ago. (DAVE MCCOY)
SalmonState public lands and water lead Rachel James analyzes Alexander Creek, in the West Susitna region. The West Su is threatened by a proposed $600 million, publicly funded, 100-mile road for foreign mining companies. The road would cause irreversible harm to rivers, wetlands, and other critical fish and wildlife habitat in the West Su. (TYLER BELL)
lands stands as a testament to what dedicated conservation work can achieve. It’s a milestone she believes is pivotal in securing these lands for posterity.
In our conversation, James reflects on her personal evolution in conservation, the key challenges her team continues to face, and her enduring hope for Alaska’s landscapes to remain wild and resilient for the generations that follow.
Tiffany Herrington You have an extensive background in environmental policy and advocacy. What first sparked your interest in conservation work, and how did you find your way back to Alaska after working internationally?
Rachel James I first became interested in conservation through my dad, who was a surveyor for various mines and oil and gas projects around the state. He shared stories of the impacts these projects had on the places he surveyed and the need for oversight. In high school, I took a natural resource conservation class with him at Mat-Su College, which inspired me to view land use not just as a passion, but as a potential career. After nearly a decade working and living in Patagonia, I returned to Alaska to raise my son in the place where I grew up and to focus on conservation issues that would ensure a better future for him.
TH Can you tell us more about your role as the public lands and waters lead at SalmonState?
RJ I work with our team and allies in tribal, sport and business communities to create a thriving future for wild Alaska salmon. This often involves ensuring that salmon have what they need to thrive: clean, cold, clear freshwater habitat.
TH SalmonState has led major conservation campaigns in Alaska. What sets your approach apart from other environmental organizations?
RJ At SalmonState, we prioritize time on the ground with allies. Our theory of change is grassroots-focused, rooted in building relationships and earning trust –a strategy we call “moving at the speed of
trust.” This has helped us build coalitions across diverse communities, from the fight to stop Pebble Mine to the D-1 lands campaign, where over 140 tribes, 150 businesses and Native corporations testified and united in support.
TH One of your current focus areas is the Defend the West Su campaign (westsuwild.org). Why is that watershed so important to Alaska’s ecosystems and communities?
RJ The Susitna River is the fourthlargest king salmon producer in Alaska and home to all five wild salmon species found in the state. It’s also more accessible and supports a range of outdoor activities that contribute to local economies, including fishing, hunting and tourism. The West Su’s pristine rivers and landscapes are a draw for Alaskans and visitors alike.
TH What are some primary threats to the West Su, and how is SalmonState addressing them?
RJ The biggest threat is a proposed taxpayer-funded road that would cut through pristine areas to speculative mining claims. This road would slice across essential habitats, jeopardizing wild salmon runs and the regional economy built on fishing and outdoor recreation.
TH You’ve been actively advocating
The BLM’s D-1 lands include this area of the East Alaska Range. All totaled, some 55 million acres were set aside from
industrial development in the 1970s, with protections for 28 million of those acres affirmed by the Biden Administration last August. (LUC MEHL)
for the protection of D-1 lands. Why are these lands significant for Alaska’s salmon populations and communities?
RJ D-1 lands include some of the last remaining large, intact landscapes in the U.S., from Southeast Alaska’s rainforests to areas north of the Arctic Circle. Keeping these lands free from industrial development is essential for protecting vital salmon habitats and supporting rural communities.
TH The recent decision by the federal government to retain protections for 28 million acres of D-1 lands was a major win for conservation groups. Can you explain what that decision means and the next steps in the process?
RJ The decision means that these 28 million acres of BLM lands, known as the D-1 lands, remain protected from widespread industrial development. This decision, finalized by (Secretary of the Interior Deb Haaland) on August 27, 2024, is a critical step in preserving these lands for future generations.
TH What do you think is the most misunderstood aspect of the D-1 lands protections, and what would you like people outside of Alaska to understand about this issue?
RJ The name itself can be off-putting; it sounds technical and complex. These lands have been protected for over 50 years, with the original intent being to keep them in the public interest. I think people outside Alaska may not realize the unique level of support for these protections: Over 140 tribes, 150 Alaskan businesses and even Native corporations submitted letters and testimony at 19 hearings across
Alaska. Nationwide, 145,000 people commented to keep the protections in place, along with 200-plus national businesses. Such widespread support is unprecedented.
TH You mentioned your experience in South America, where farmed salmon was common, and your commitment to preserving wild habitats in Alaska for your son’s future. How have these
An angler fishes American Creek in Katmai for sockeye. “My top goals would be permanent protection of the Bristol Bay watershed lands and establishing new comanagement and costewardship agreements on Alaska’s BLM lands,” says James. (KEN MORRISH)
The West Susitna Parkway at the start of a controversial road project that James says “would slice across essential habitats” for salmon. (RYAN ASTALOS)
personal experiences shaped your work?
RJ Living in Patagonia and witnessing the negative impacts of fish farms on local ecosystems left a deep impression. I came back to Alaska determined to protect the wild habitats that make it unique, especially for my son and future generations.
TH As someone who was raised in Palmer and has lived in remote parts of the state, how do you think your upbringing influenced your perspective on land and water conservation in Alaska?
RJ I grew up in areas historically tied to mining – on Soapstone Road, near an old soapstone mine, and later in Sutton, near an old coal wash. My dad worked at Red Dog, in the Arctic oil fields and other locations tied to industrial development. When I was old enough, I pursued guiding and outdoor education, spending extended time in the wilderness on my own and with clients, sometimes up to
James (here camping on the Alaska Peninsula) grew up appreciating the lands of her native state and gained further perspective while spending significant time in South America’s spectacular Patagonia region. “I returned to Alaska to raise my son in the place where I grew up and to focus on conservation issues that would ensure a better future for him,” she says.
activities such as
Recreational
paddling the Unalakleet River are one of many reasons SalmonState is fighting for these pristine Alaskan waters. (DAVID SHAW)
(RACHEL JAMES)
“My conservation work is informed by decades of experiences with people, places and stories across Alaska, rooted in a deep understanding of people’s place within a big, wild, functioning ecosystem,” says James, here at Amakdedori Beach on the west side of Cook Inlet. (JAYME DITTMAR)
60 days without returning to civilization. Over the years, I’ve hunted, fished and visited nearly two dozen remote communities. My conservation work is informed by decades of experiences with people, places and stories across Alaska, rooted in a deep understanding of people’s place within big, wild, functioning ecosystems.
TH If you could achieve one lasting change for Alaska’s public lands and waters through your work, what would it be, and why?
RJ My top goals would be permanent protection of the Bristol Bay watershed lands and establishing new comanagement and costewardship agreements on Alaska’s BLM lands. ASJ
Editor’s note: To learn more about SalmonState and stay updated on their conservation efforts, visit salmonstate .org and follow them on social media at facebook.com/SalmonStateAK and instagram.com/salmonstate. Tiffany Herrington is a writer based in the Seattle area.
COUPLE’S THERAPY TRIP
WIFE JOINS PARTNER DURING LATEST SOUTHEAST ALASKA ADVENTURE
BY ANNE KELLY
Every year for the past 10-plus years, my husband Brian has traveled to Alaska to fill our freezer with delicious Alaskan salmon.
Each year I am a self-proclaimed fishing widow, holding down the fort at home during his adventures. As a teacher with beginning-of-the-school-year obligations, September coho runs never work out for me to go with Brian. However, last summer I traveled alongside him for my first trip to visit one of the most beautiful
states I’ve ever seen.
I am not a stranger to travel. I traveled by plane for the first time at six weeks old and have not stopped since. I live by the mantra that you can always make more money, but time is never guaranteed. I have family spread across the states, and that has kept me on the road and in the air throughout much of my life. My most memorable trip was during the summer of 2023 with our son Ryan, who had just graduated high school. I wanted to
celebrate his graduation and, if I’m being completely honest, squeeze in as much time as I could before he stops wanting to travel with his mom.
We planned a national park tour that took the two of us on a 10,000-mile trip. Over a 30-day period, we visited 19 parks as well as uncounted states, national forests and monuments. It was a trip to cherish for a lifetime.
But last summer’s trip to Alaska will forever leave its mark on me. Brian and
Anne Kelly wanted to join her husband Brian on his latest Alaska fishing adventure. The Pennsylvania couple experienced the beauty of Southeast Alaska together for the first time. (ANNE KELLY)
I traveled to Ketchikan, and while this was Brian’s 15th trip to Alaska, it was his first to Ketchikan. Brian went into full-on guide mode, making sure I was outfitted to stay dry for our adventures as well as blend in with the locals. Armed with waterproof gear and “Tuffies” boots – all in teal – I was ready to go.
We booked a room at Anchor Inn by the Sea, which is located right on the Tongass National Forest and directly overlooks the Inside Passage. Our hostess, Mary, was welcoming, and our accommodations were perfect for the duration of our trip.
THE BEAUTY OF THE sky and ocean, surrounded by lush rainforest and mountains, was unlike any other landscape I had experienced before. Each day was different. Brian said Alaska was showing off for me with the gorgeous days of sunshine we had at the start of our trip. I am a sun-loving girl at heart, but even on the days when the mist rolled over the mountains and the sky and water turned grey, I still found the view breathtaking.
We went on several small hikes in the Tongass National Forest, as well as drove to both ends of the Tongass Highway. I understand there’s a backstory about that road and a reason why it does not take very long to drive the full length of it, but that story is for another day.
During our drives, Brian was behind the wheel while I kept my eyes on the water looking for signs of whales. I have been on several whale-watching tours in the New England area, but never spotted a whale larger than small minkes.
I was determined to spot a humpback
whale, as well as orcas, on this trip. For several days, we looked out to the water, and “no whales” became a common phrase in our conversations. Then one morning, Brian woke early to go fish at the shoreline of our rental and came rushing back into our room to wake me. There was a lone humpback bubble-net feeding right in front of our property. I rushed out with my camera in hand and took pictures of my first humpback whale.
I joined a local whale-watching group
on Facebook, and while I monitored it religiously, outside of the one whale we’d spotted, none were in our area for the first part of our visit. Then I saw a post that said a large pod of humpbacks was feeding near South Point Higgins Beach. We got into the car and began driving that way.
During the ride, I kept monitoring the posts to keep track of the humpbacks’ location. While doing so, another member of the group shared that a pod of orcas was heading straight towards Ketchikan
Anne has always been a whale-watching fanatic, so she was thrilled to see orcas along Ketchikan’s Tongass Highway – the Kellys followed this mama and her calf for an hour – and the gorgeous tail flukes of a humpback, which Anne had never seen up close before. (ANNE KELLY)
The author harvested some delicious crabs on a bucket-list trip aboard the Aleutian Ballad (ANNE KELLY)
and would be arriving in an estimated two hours. We made the decision to turn around and head back to sit on our deck and wait for the arrival of the orcas, which were heading straight towards us. I saw the first spout out in the distance, and we sat and watched as more spouts and then black fins became visible.
On one of our boating excursions, we rode by a small group of islands where seals lived. The orcas passed right through that area and spent an hour or so hunting.
As they moved closer to us and eventually turned south along the coast, we jumped into our car and followed them down the Tongass. We spent a little over four hours in total chasing the killer whales and taking pictures. Locals and tourists alike followed them south with us, all equally excited to watch the whales. A mother and her calf were the most popular of the pod. We could not stop smiling and I was yet again wowed by the incredible beauty that Alaska holds.
We enjoyed multiple excursions –
kayaking, halibut fishing, whale watching (we saw more humpbacks on the Aleutian Ballad crab boat tour) and ate as much crab as we possibly could.
I schooled a couple of elderly Ohioans on manners during our halibut trip. I was catching more fish than anyone else, and one made the remark, “This is why girls shouldn’t be allowed on boats.” I made him aware that I had not been a girl for a long time and that I was a “full-fledged woman.” (Yes; I said that; it’s OK to cringe.) I then proceeded to immediately call out “Fish on!” as I had yet again hooked another fish. We all made nice and Brian and I ensured they went home with fish for their freezer since they did not catch their limit on their own.
We spent very little time in the tourist traps, as we preferred to be immersed in nature and with each other rather than surrounded by all the people who came in by cruise ship daily.
OUR TRIP WAS MORE than just another vacation. It was our first vacation since
Herring Bay was busy with commercial fishing activity focused on hatchery kings. Unfortunately, the fish never came within casting range for the Kellys, but the view was sensational. (ANNE KELLY)
Anne and Brian caught their first Alaskan halibut aboard a Baranof Fishing Excursions boat. (ANNE KELLY)
The trip was special for Brian, who last year was diagnosed with prostate cancer and successfully treated, and Anne to spend time together. “We celebrated our seventh wedding anniversary in Alaska, as it fell on the week of our trip,” Anne writes. “To have found my soulmate in my 30s and then realize that even though we still feel like newlyweds, knowing I could have lost Brian made me appreciate more and take less for granted.” (ANNE KELLY)
my husband’s prostate cancer surgery, which had been performed in January 2024. While knowing from the start that Brian’s cancer was contained within his prostate and that he would be cancer-free post-surgery, the entire experience was a stark reminder that our time on this planet is limited.
We celebrated our seventh wedding anniversary in Alaska, as it fell on the week of our trip. To have found my soulmate in my 30s and then realize that even though we still feel like newlyweds, knowing I could have lost Brian made me appreciate more and take less for granted.
Alaska has always been Brian’s favorite place, and to share the experience of his first visit to Ketchikan is no small thing. The morning we packed up to leave, we stood out on our deck for one more moment looking out over the water and mountains. We cried together as we said goodbye to a place we both fell in love with together.
Take the time. Make the trips. Memories last longer than any “thing” you can buy. ASJ
FOR THE LOVE OF SHEEFISH
A HUSBAND AND WIFE TURN BACK THE CLOCK IN THE REMOTE ARCTIC
Authors Scott and Tiffany Haugen with a pair of prized sheefish. They’ve shared many adventures in Alaska over the past 34 years, but this was their most memorable fishing trip ever and marked a first return together to the Alaskan Arctic, where they taught school for several years in the 1990s.
BY SCOTT HAUGEN
It’s so peaceful out here,” my wife Tiffany whispered, not wanting to break the silence of the Arctic air. A smile was the only reply I could muster; I felt the same way.
It was March and we were sitting on the frozen bay north of Kotzebue. It was the first time in 21 years we’d been together in Alaska’s Arctic. It was Tiffany’s first time targeting sheefish through the ice. The evening was calm and the skies clear. Temperatures hovered in the midteens and we’d fished over four hours
without a bite. The only sounds we heard all evening were hungry ravens in search of a meal and the occasional rumble of a snowmachine in the distant village. Few words were exchanged, but our minds were racing. You see, Tiffany and I began our married life together in Alaska’s Arctic, in the small village of Point Lay. That was in August 1990. We were two of only four schoolteachers at the time – her teaching third through eighth grade, every subject, and me doing the same at the high school level.
After three years in Point Lay, we transferred to Anaktuvuk Pass, one of Alaska’s most breathtaking destinations, where we taught for four years. Here we hunted and fished out our front door. We moved away in 1997, and we miss that life. We were eager to experience it again.
AS WE WERE GETTING ready to call it a night, Tiff’s ice fishing rod doubled over. Soon she was pulling her first sheefish through the 10-inch hole we’d drilled through 5 feet of ice. It wasn’t a big fish, but it
(SCOTT HAUGEN)
didn’t matter. “Gee, if a sheefish this size fights like this, I’d can’t wait to see what a big one will do!” Tiff exclaimed, holding up the 8-pound fish. Two hours later we were still jigging without another bite. With the sun setting on the frozen sea, it was time to call it quits.
The next morning, we headed back onto the ice, this time with good friend and longtime Kotzebue resident Lew Pagel. Pagel is a chiropractor in the village. “It’s a magical place and more and more people are eager to experience it; that’s for sure,” Pagel shared. “We’ve been booking trips the past few seasons and folks are loving it! They really enjoy being above the Arctic Circle, visiting the village and, of course, catching sheefish.”
Pagel offers guided and fully outfitted do-it-yourself sheefishing trips on the ice (arcticfishingadventures.com).
He has all the gear you’ll need, will arrange accommodations and clean and vacuum-seal your fish for the trip home. Pagel has called Kotzebue home for 19 years. He has many friends there.
Pagel, Tiffany and I pounded the ice for eight hours without a single bite. Deciding to call it a day, we headed the snowmachines back to Kotzebue. Right in front of town, a handful of locals
had a couple fresh-caught sheefish laying on the ice. “Get your lines in the water, they’re everywhere,” one of them encouraged Pagel.
SOON, WE WERE DRILLING holes and jigging spoons. On my first cast, I flipped the bail on my ice fishing rod, letting the big lure free-fall down. Instantly the line started peeling off the spool before I could flip the bail. I knew it was a big sheefish. It fought harder than any other I could remember fighting and catching over the years.
Nearly 10 minutes into the battle, the sheefish finally began to tire, but I couldn’t get it through the ice hole. Nervously, I gave the fish some slack line, then pulled it tight trying to center
it in the hole. Still it wouldn’t fit through the bottom of the ice hole.
After several tries I finally felt the head of the sheefish slip into the hole. I grabbed my 60-pound braided line and lifted the fish through the ice. Its round body was tight in the hole, but I kept pulling, trusting the braid and my knot. A rush of water surged out of the hole as the fish neared the surface. When I reached into the hole to grab the fish by the gills, I’ll never forget the gasps let out by the locals as I hoisted the monster sheefish into the air. Tipping the scales to 40 pounds, it was the biggest sheefish of my life and my first fish of this trip.
“Looks like we found ’em,” smiled Pagel, who was quietly battling a sheefish of his own. Tiffany intensely worked her spoon up and down, and soon she was locked in battle with a hard-pulling sheefish. It would run, Tiff would gain line and soon it was stripped out again. Eventually, the sheefish grew tired and Tiffany pulled a 25-pound beauty from the ice. Her very next cast yielded a 22-pounder. Over the next several minutes she landed three more beautiful sheefish from that hole, the smallest being 18 pounds.
As word traveled that the sheefish bite was on, villagers gathered on the ice. There was room for everyone. Over the next two hours we all caught fish. Spirits were high and a few elders were even on the ice, fishing with their niksiks, some of which were crafted from wood, others
Drilling holes through the thick pack ice of Kotzebue Sound in late winter requires a power auger and an extension to reach the depths sheefish swim. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
An angler works a traditional Native Alaskan sheefish rod, a niksik, at a productive spot. They are made from wood, caribou antler or whale bone. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
from caribou antler, and still others from whale rib bones.
Bundled in their traditional fur-ruffed parkas, grandchildren at their side, everyone was in their element and as happy as could be. That special time on the ice was developing into one of the most joyous subsistence experiences Tiff and I had ever been a part of, and we knew it. For us, it was a pure joy just to sit back and watch and listen.
When the sheefish bite subsided, everyone began cleaning their fish on the ice. Lew, Tiff and I caught a sled full, plenty to keep us busy as we listened to people talk. Locals shared stories and everyone was filled with happiness. It was an evening we will never forget.
TIFFANY AND I TOOK home 100 pounds of sheefish meat from that trip in March. People often ask us what our favorite fish is to eat. Mine is sheefish, especially when smoked. It’s a bit sweet for Tiff’s liking, but she still ranks it high on her most-liked list, which is saying something with all the fish recipes and cookbooks she’s created and written about over the decades.
I first tasted sheefish while running a wolf trapline out of Anaktuvuk Pass. I swapped Dall sheep meat I’d brought with a man from a village to the south who was hauling sheefish for meals on his wolf trapline. One night our paths crossed. We shared meat. I got the better end of the deal.
Tiffany and I have been fortunate to fish many parts of Alaska over the past 34 years, but this experience made us look back together on how our life began. Two weeks after being married in July 1990, Tiffany and I were living in Point Lay, one of the most remote villages in Alaska. There, storms routinely lasted for weeks and the mercury stayed well below zero for months on end. Total darkness consumed the winter months, and the internet had not emerged at the time we lived there. Cell phones and satellite TV were unheard of.
We had no stores and did nine months worth of grocery shopping at once, then had it all flown into the village on bushplanes. The protein we consumed was from the animals we’d hunted and fished for. That was then. The sheefishing adventure was now. The older we get, the more Tiffany and I appreciate the people of
Tiffany smiles over a pair of big sheefish. “While Tiffany and I have enjoyed fishing throughout much of Alaska over the decades,” her husband Scott writes, “it’s that one evening of catching sheefish on the ice in Kotzebue that greatly impacted our lives.” (SCOTT HAUGEN)
remote Alaska, their stories and learning about their lives. The elders have so many gripping stories to share. Catching fish is simply a means of bringing us all together, and that’s something there’s never a shortage of in Alaska. Where there are fish there are people, and where there are people there are stories to be told.
While Tiffany and I have enjoyed fishing throughout much of Alaska over the decades, it’s that one evening of catching sheefish on the ice in Kotzebue that greatly impacted our lives, once again. With Valentine’s Day almost here, this is a trip I think of often and wish I could snap my fingers and take us back to. It was the best date on the ice we’d ever shared – the most memorable fishing adventure we’ve had anywhere in the world – thanks to the fish, but mostly thanks to our friend Lew and the residents of Kotzebue, who conveyed in their genuine passion of that evening what life in Alaska is all about. ASJ
Editor’s note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s best-selling books, visit scotthaugen.com Follow Scott on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.
Longtime Kotzebue resident Lew Pagel specializes in guided and self-guided sheefish trips. Angling for predacious sheefish, which travel in schools, can mean long waits between bites, but when they’re around, the action can be fast and furious. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
YOU WANT FISH? ASK THESE QUESTIONS
THE WHERE, WHAT, WHEN AND HOW OF PLANNING AN ALASKA FISHING TRIP
There is plenty to do to prepare for an Alaskan fishing trip. If you want to target the state’s
salmon, get up to date on run timings, river closures and daily and possession limits. Author Scott Haugen took this king by back-trolling a Mag Lip on the Nushagak River.
BY SCOTT HAUGEN
Now is the time to start thinking ahead to fishing season. With salmon runs changing in so many parts of their traditional haunts, even in the salt, the more homework you do now, the better the experience will be. The same principle goes for any fishing in Alaska for this coming spring, summer and fall.
WHAT?
The first question to ask yourself is about the fish. Be honest when determining what species you want to catch the most. If it’s king salmon
in rivers, late fall isn’t the time. If it’s Arctic grayling, know that as the summer progresses and the fish feed up on spawning salmon and their eggs, they’ll grow bigger. If it’s northern pike or sheefish, be aware that traveling to remote destinations will be in order.
WHEN?
The second most important question to answer relates to run timings. The biggest mistake I see being made is when anglers plan their fishing vacation around their schedule, not the fish. Once you know the species you most
want to target, figure out the run timings or when these fish make their way into river systems.
WHERE?
Next, determine where you’ll need to go to catch the fish you want. The desired species and their run timings will help answer this third question for you.
There are excellent roadside fisheries in Alaska that you can tackle on your own, but even those require time and money. At first glance, it may seem like a remote flyout fishing experience or staying at a lodge is
famed
(SCOTT HAUGEN)
the gamey taste
DON’T WAIT! COOK UP A DELICIOUS WATERFOWL DISH NOW
BY TIFFANY HAUGEN
Being locked in winter, you’re no doubt making a dent in the freezer supply. But if you’ve been putting off digging into last season’s ducks and geese, stop. Here’s a recipe worth trying. Because frozen ducks and geese can take on a gamey taste once thawed and cooked, it’s important to find a recipe that’s ’fowl-friendly. This is one. Before cooking any waterfowl, be sure all bloodshot tissues are removed and the meat is thoroughly cleaned. The higher the quality of the meat at the start, the better the final recipe will be. The blame for a lot of bad-tasting fowl is put on the cook when, really, improper field care and cleaning are to blame. The cleaner the meat, the more mild tasting and enjoyable your waterfowl feasting experience will be.
This sweet, caramelized recipe is a big hit in our family. We’ve shared it with
many friends who simply couldn’t believe they were eating ducks and geese.
Two large goose breasts or four large duck breasts (about a pound)
¼ cup brown sugar
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon garlic, puréed
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons olive or coconut oil
One yellow onion, finely chopped Chives or green onion and chili peppers for garnish if desired
In a medium bowl, mix brown sugar, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, garlic, salt and black pepper until thoroughly combined. Slice breasts across the grain into thin strips and add to the
brine. Let sit at room temperature 30 minutes (or refrigerate up to eight hours).
In a large skillet, sauté onions over medium-high heat in olive or coconut oil for two to three minutes. Push onions aside and add sliced waterfowl to the pan. Spread meat out in a single layer. Once meat begins to brown, turn over and brown the other side. Do not overcook ducks and geese, as the flavor will become stronger the more it’s cooked. Once browned, mix meat with onion. Serve over rice and garnish with chives or green onions and hot peppers.
Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany Haugen’s popular cookbook, Cooking Game Birds, visit scotthaugen.com.
Combat
of thawed and cooked waterfowl by combining flavors to create a badass bird dish. (TIFFANY HAUGEN)
FIELD
While fishing with Becharof Lodge on the Egegik River, Donald Trump Jr. went on a flyout trip to a remote stream for Arctic grayling and char. The fishing was technical, but Trump had a variety of flies. Dry flies saved the day, and he caught some dandies. So if bringing your own tackle, have lots of options. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
beyond your budget. But look closely at what’s required if renting a car for a week, paying for gas, food and lodging, and you might be surprised. Traveling in Alaska is not cheap, especially during the summer months when most of us want to go fishing.
HOW?
When planning your trip, ask yourself if you want to fish on your own, with a guide, or a combination of both. With the increasing costs of airfare, I know of more and more anglers who travel to Alaska for two weeks instead of the usual seven days. They fish on their own half of the time, then go on flyouts or head to a remote lodge for the rest of the trip. Or they’ll travel the road system and fish in different places on
their own.
If you want to fish on your own, you’ll need proper gear. To figure out what terminal gear to bring, start by researching the rivers you plan on fishing and know the regulations.
If you’re a gear angler, know that not all rivers allow fishing with bait such as cured salmon eggs. Several systems also have a single-hook policy, meaning treble hooks will need to be removed from lures and plugs and replaced with siwashes. Some rivers may undergo seasonal or emergency closures, so if fishing on your own, make sure to have a backup plan and keep up to date on river closures.
Should you want to fish from a remote lodge, do the research. Narrow down the choices of the lodges in the
place you want to fish and be sure to call their references. If they don’t have references, or references listed on their website, keep shopping. And as with many things in life, know that bigger and more expensive lodges aren’t always better. Nor are the cheapest options.
WHAT TO PACK
When packing fishing tackle or flies, consider variety over volume. For instance, if planning to twitch jigs for coho, know that water conditions may not be ideal for that technique, so bring some jigs to fish beneath a float, along with a selection of spinners, spoons, drift bobbers and soft beads. Carrying four or five of each piece of terminal gear is a good rule, especially if traveling to remote waters. On the road system, you can resupply tackle as needed.
If it’s catching big grayling on mouse patterns, know that the stream you might be fishing could be low and clear, making the grayling leery. In this case, having a selection of small dry flies, along with flesh flies and beads, can turn a slow day into a stellar one. For salmon fishing where bait is allowed, take some salmon cure and sealable baggies to cure up some of your own eggs to fish with. Take scissors to manage the skeins. With the chemically hot cures on today’s market, and the incredible dyes used in them, eggs can be cured and fished within 24 hours. Pre-tying a few dozen leaders to take along will save the time of having to do it on the river.
Know that most of Alaska’s salmon are not leader-shy, plus their teeth grow big as the summer months progress. For this reason, find a strong, abrasionresistant mainline to use. Many salmon anglers even use braid as a leader, tying spinners, plugs and twitching jigs directly to it.
Figure out what type of rods you want to bring, and how many. Two summers ago I spent a month traveling throughout Alaska, fishing many different rivers and streams. I knew I was going to be flying in bushplanes and camping in remote places, so I chose to take rods that broke down for easy
The author’s go-to travel spinning rod, a 7-foot G.Loomis Escape Series rod, has accounted for countless fish of a wide variety over the past decade. He took this limit of coho with it in Cold Bay last August. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
travel. My fly rods were all four-piece models, ranging in weights to handle everything from small grayling to big coho. For my spinning rod, I went with one model, a G.Loomis Escape in the GLX series. I took two of these 7-foot rods (one for backup purposes). The fast-action, medium-power and 10- to 17-pound-line weight rating allowed me to target multiple species, and travel was easy with the three-piece rods. I fished over a half-dozen methods with this rod, catching char, grayling, coho and chum salmon in excess of 20 pounds.
For compact travel, two rods can often be fit into one travel tube and easily carried on a commercial airline. Be sure to consolidate terminal gear into small tackle boxes, and take a spool of extra line and a range of tippets.
Having a pair of needle-nose pliers handy at all times is wise. You never know when you’ll need to remove hooks from a fish, or your hand. If fishing braid, take a braid cutter. Sunscreen, lip balm and a mosquito head net are other essentials worth having. Take quality rain gear, and make sure your waders or hip boots don’t leak.
WHAT YOU’LL TAKE HOME
If looking to take home large portions of meat, remote flyouts may not be what you want. Most lodges will get you home with 50 pounds of fillets, but beyond that can be a stretch. That’s not only due to the cost of handling large quantities of fish among staff and bushplane services, but possession limits restrict volume in some fisheries. These are questions to ask the lodge before booking a trip.
Sitting in the throes of winter, planning that summer or fall fishing trip could be just the therapy you need. Take your time, plan carefully and enjoy the process. What you’ll come away with is a thorough understanding of what it takes to successfully catch fish in Alaska. ASJ
Editor’s note: To order Scott Haugen’s popular line of how-to fishing books, visit scotthaugen.com. Follow Scott on Instagram and Facebook.
REDS, R&D AND R&R IN THE MAT-SU
BY MARK FONG
For a decade, Chris Wegeleben spent large parts of his summer guiding for salmon on Lake Creek in Alaska’s Mat-Su Valley. These days, as the principal and driving force behind Washington State-based Prolite Rods, his time is taken up building custom rods and managing the daily operations of that growing business.
However, last summer Wegeleben received a call from his old boss, Jeff Woodward of Lake Creek Lodge. Woodward asked him if he could lend
GUIDING OP A CHANCE FOR ROD BUILDER TO WORK ON PROTOTYPE, GET FAMILY INTO SALMON
a hand during the peak of sockeye salmon season, and Wegeleben did not hesitate. He quickly made arrangements to ensure his business was in good hands and then jumped on a plane for Alaska.
Unlike prior trips to Lake Creek Lodge, this was extra special for Wegeleben, as he was joined by his stepson Joelson, and later by his wife Jessica and fatherin-law Ed.
TARGET: SOCKEYE
Located at the confluence of Lake Creek
and the Yentna River, some 60 air miles to the north-northwest of Anchorage, Lake Creek Lodge offers fantastic fishing opportunities. Because of its remote location, the lodge is accessible only by float plane, making for a true Alaskan adventure.
During Wegeleben’s three-week tour, the sockeye run was in full swing. Most of the fish caught were in the 5to 7-pound range, with some up to 10 pounds. Sockeye have a reputation as hard fighters, and when hooked they are
Washington State-based custom rod builder Chris Wegeleben (here with wife Jessica) was more than willing to accept a friend’s invitation to help out on a sockeye salmon guiding gig in the Mat-Su Valley’s Lake Creek last summer. (CHRIS WEGELEBEN)
full of acrobatics.
On Lake Creek the limit is three sockeye per angler per day.
According to Wegeleben, the typical Alaskan way to catch sockeye is called “flossing” or “flipping,” which is legal on Lake Creek and other rivers in Alaska. When sockeye enter freshwater, they stop eating and are not very aggressive or “bitey.” As a result, the basic idea is to drag your line through the fish’s mouth. Once you feel the fish, you sweep the line tight so that the hook will slide into the side of the fish’s mouth. Snagged fish are not kept; every fish that is kept is legally hooked in the mouth.
“Flipping is a drift fishing technique,” Wegeleben explains. “The rig I use with my clients is basically a few split shot weights that can be adjusted for the conditions, with a leader and a hook behind it and usually a little piece of yarn so you can see the hook and where it’s at. The water clarity on Lake Creek is super clear, so this is basically sight fishing. You’re there waiting until you visually
Jessica with a typical-sized Lake Creek sockeye. The fishery’s crystal-clear waters make for ideal sight fishing. “You’re there waiting until you visually see the fish come through and then you target a specific fish,” Chris says. (CHRIS WEGELEBEN)
The guiding opportunity also served up a little rest and relaxation for Chris’s family. He was joined by Jessica, his stepson Joelson (far left) and father-in-law Ed Heiser. Lake Creek Lodge is only accessible via float plane. (CHRIS WEGELEBEN)
see the fish come through and then you target a specific fish.”
“Most of the time you’ve only got 10 feet of line out, so most people will use a fly rod. To flip, you pull the line up with your free hand and use the rod to flipcast the line out in front of you across the current, allow your rig to drift with controlled slack, and then you pick up the line and do it over again,” he explains.
“Flipping is not an easy technique to teach,” Wegeleben adds. “There is a perfect balance to reading the water: You gotta go above the fish; you gotta go past the fish; you gotta let it sink; and you gotta kinda pull and stretch the line out. Once a client catches one or two fish, that’s when they start to figure it out. As a guide, that is really rewarding.”
CHANCE FOR SOME R&D
As a rod builder, Wegeleben doesn’t need to look far for ideas or inspiration.
“I am working on a technique-specific prototype fly rod designed for the flipping application. I don’t want to use a typical graphite fly rod blank that is not very durable,” he says. “Instead, I am using a composite blank, one that is capable of taking a beating, but still has the power needed and is light enough that it won’t physically wear you out. I am thinking that a two-piece, 9-foot, 6-inch medium to medium-heavy action would work really well. You don’t want a super-long rod, because you’re making a windmill action with it during the cast. If the rod is too long, then you just can’t control it very well. I think this rod is going to be a nice addition to the Prolite catalog.”
The daily routine of an Alaskan fishing guide can be a grueling affair. Days start early and end late, but Wegeleben was also able to spend some quality time with his family when they came up.
“Every time I get a chance to come to Alaska, the experiences are different, and this trip was definitely special,” says Wegeleben. “I can’t wait for the opportunity to come back again.” ASJ
Editor’s note: To learn more about Lake Creek Lodge and the great fishing opportunities there, please visit their website at jeffwoodwardsportfishing.com/ lake-creek-lodge. The full line of Prolite rods can be viewed at proliterods.com.
“Every time I get a chance to come to Alaska, the experiences are different, and this trip was definitely special,” says Chris (here with Joelson). “I can’t wait for the opportunity to come back again.” (CHRIS WEGELEBEN)
