FISHING • HUNTING • ADVENTURE
AKSPORTINGJOURNAL.COM
Volume 11 • Issue 8 www.aksportingjournal.com PUBLISHER James R. Baker
INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER Lois Sanborn
GENERAL MANAGER John Rusnak
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES media@media-inc.com
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott EDITOR Chris Cocoles WRITERS Paul D. Atkins, Bjorn Dihle, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Brian Watkins SALES MANAGER Paul Yarnold ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mamie Griffin, Jim Klark, Mike Smith DESIGNER Lesley-Anne Slisko-Cooper PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker, Malena Kennedy WEB DEVELOPMENT/INBOUND MARKETING Jon Hines, Jon Eske ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Katie Aumann
MEDIA INDEX PUBLISHING GROUP 941 Powell Ave SW, Suite 120 Renton, WA 98057 (206) 382-9220 • Fax (206) 382-9437 media@media-inc.com • www.media-inc.com CORRESPONDENCE Twitter @AKSportJourn Facebook.com/alaskasportingjournal Email ccocoles@media-inc.com ON THE COVER For the second consecutive year, Trevor Embry teamed up with his pal Brian Watkins for a successful mountain goat hunt. After tagging out the previous year in Southeast Alaska, in 2021 the guys scored a couple billies in the mountains of Kodiak Island. (BRIAN WATKINS)
Pistol Bullets and Ammunition Zero Bullet Company, Inc.
ZER 4
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
P.O. Box 1188 Cullman, AL 35056 Tel: 256-739-1606 Fax: 256-739-4683 Toll Free: 800-545-9376 www.zerobullets.com
CONTENTS
VOLUME 11 • ISSUE 8
CHASING BILLIES HIGH ON KODIAK Bowhunters Brian Watkins and Trevor Embry had such a spectacular 2020 Southeast Alaska mountain goat hunt, they wanted to take on a new challenge in their quest to harvest billies. So last year they went to Kodiak Island, where the terrain is less steep but challenges still confronted the duo.
15
(BRIAN WATKINS)
FEATURES 20
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE
WHAT A FORMER ALASKAN MISSES (AND DOESN’T) Paul Atkins has returned to his America’s Heartland roots in Oklahoma after living in the Arctic Alaska community of Kotzebue for more than two decades. As he reflects on those days in the Last Frontier, there are plenty of experiences he longs to repeat – and also some aspects he could do without. But as you’ll discover, the lifestyle certainly wasn’t dull. It’s why he’ll return regularly for more fishing and hunting bliss.
9 Editor’s Note: A shared love of
the outdoors and college football
11 The Alaska Beat: Record-
setting sockeye forecast again for Bristol Bay 13 Outdoor Calendar 39 Tip of the Month: Preparing for cold weather in the field 44 The Pride of Bristol Bay: Locals weigh in on permanent protection from Pebble Mine
33
LIGHTS, CAMERA, WATERFOWL ACTION! Scott Haugen’s love of outdoor photography made him appreciate the passion and dedication of sportsman and author Gary Kramer, who has traveled the world to capture pics of just about every species of waterfowl on the planet, including several in Alaska. Haugen recounts some of Kramer’s favorite photographer vs. bird moments from around the globe as part of his new book, Waterfowl of the World. Also check out Tiffany Haugen’s Dolly Varden recipe in the From Field to Fire feature.
51
ALASKA JOY FOR WOUNDED WARRIORS Almost a decade ago, California resident Randy Houston started a nonprofit organization called Purple Heart Anglers to give wounded servicemen and -women an opportunity to experience the joy of the outdoors. Eight fishing trips to Alaska later, Houston’s vision of honoring his late brother Jerry, a decorated Vietnam veteran, has become a special experience for all involved. Houston talked to us about this most recent salmon adventure in Ketchikan.
Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Inc. Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Inc. Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $49.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Inc. Publishing Group, 941 Powell Ave SW, Suite 120, Renton, WA 98057 or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues may be ordered at Media Inc. Publishing Group, subject to availability, at the cost of $5 plus shipping. Copyright © 2022 Media Inc. Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A. 6
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
Built for Adventure! THUNDER JET • BOULTON • FISH-RITE
With our factory-trained technicians for Yamaha, Suzuki, Mercury, Tohatsu and Honda motors, we can handle any project from electronic installs to complete boat and motor overhauls.
Need a new motor for your current boat? Best prices around on Repowers!
MAXXUM MARINE
1700 Hwy 99 N, Eugene, OR
www.maxxummarine.com
Toll Free 877-4-Maxxum (877-462-9986) Local 541-686-3572
8
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
EDITOR’S NOTE
O
ne underrated aspect of my job as Alaska Sporting Journal editor has been getting to know the men and women who have provided most of the content that celebrates the outdoors in Alaska. As we start a new year I’m grateful for all of them, past and present. Most of the writers and I only keep track of each other via email, and when you’re messaging back and forth about topics, photos, caption info and story tweaks, it’s great to also get to know each other from a personal standpoint. I’ve chatted with writers about our families, our dogs, our favorite vacation memories and other topics. This might be just me, but it’s nice to know a little more about one another. Paul Atkins, one of a handful of correspondents who’s been with me almost since the beginning of my tenure at ASJ, and I have more in common than just a love of the outdoors and adventure (though I don’t have a fraction of the experience Paul does in the field, so I try to mostly stay out of his way when it comes to his story ideas). We also admire each other’s passion for college football – specifically rooting for our college alma maters. Paul is an Oklahoma State alum and is back where he grew up in Oklahoma (see his story on page 20) after spending 20plus years as a teacher and adventure seeker in Kotzebue, Alaska. I graduated with a journalism degree from Fresno State in my home state of California. And our love for Paul’s Cowboys and my Bulldogs in football has included attending multiple games over the years. “Since I was a kid I wanted to go to Oklahoma State, and I got there through my ability to judge livestock, where I ended up on the OSU Livestock Team,” said Atkins, who was named an All-American during his stint on the team. “It was during those days in the late 1980s that I got to spend Saturday afternoons sitting on those hard aluminum bleachers in the student section watching the likes of (running backs) Thurman Thomas and Barry Sanders with a little Mike Gundy (a quarterback and now the Cowboys’ current coach) thrown in. Those were wonderful times.” For me, a lifelong sports fan, I too spent
Correspondent Paul Atkins (top, right), with his son Eli celebrating at the 2021 Oklahoma StateOklahoma game), and the editor (at a Fresno State game earlier this season at Oregon) have a shared love of college football and their respective alma maters. (PAUL D. ATKINS/CHRIS COCOLES)
fall Saturday nights at Fresno State’s Bulldog Stadium with my friends. My heroes back then in the late 1980s to early ‘90s were future NFL players like Trent Dilfer, Lorenzo Neal and Marquez Pope. Paul and I both had chances to see our teams in person this year (both Oklahoma State and Fresno State had really good to great seasons and made bowl games). For Paul it was even more special, as Oklahoma State had a chance to clinch a spot in the Big 12 Conference championship game against its archrival Oklahoma in a rivalry game known simply as Bedlam. Atkins’ teenaged son Eli joined him for that November game in Stillwater, Oklahoma. The Cowboys won
and students stormed the field after the clock hit zero while father and son took a selfie of the beautiful chaos. “After Eli was born and throughout his childhood living in Alaska, I would tell him the tales of what I experienced and what I saw at OSU, and that someday he and I would go and experience it together,” Paul told me. “It took 19 years but we got there, and to experience what we did at Bedlam this year was more than expected, almost scripted to what a dream is supposed to be.” “I will cherish that night until the end of my days.” Here’s to more stadiums for us to celebrate in. -Chris Cocoles
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
9
Alaska Department of Fish and Game’s 2022 Bristol Bay salmon forecast calls for a run of 75-plus million sockeye. If it comes true, it would establish a new record for the second year in a row. (D. CLARK/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE)
ALASKA BEAT TWEET OF THE MONTH
HERE COME THE SOCKEYE! A
fter 2021’s record-setting return of Bristol Bay sockeye salmon – a total of 63.1 million fish shattered a decades-old mark – expect more of the same as an even more impressive number of reds is predicted back in 2022. The Alaska Department of Fish and Game forecast a massive 75 million sockeye to return this year. In total, ADFG projected a total run of 75.27 million fish, which includes an escapement of 13.46 million and a harvestable surplus of 61.82 million. “This is 44 percent larger than the most recent 10-year average of Bristol Bay total runs (52.09 million) and 111 percent greater than the long-term (1963– 2021) average of 35.73 million fish,” ADFG’s report read. “All systems are expected to meet their spawning escapement goals. The forecast range is the upper and lower values of the 80-percent confidence interval for the total run forecast.” And you wonder why this region has fought so hard to keep the Pebble Mine out of this salmon-rich ecosystem!
BUT WHAT HAPPENED TO THE CARIBOU? Contrast the enthusiasm for the increasing number of salmon coming back to Bristol Bay with concerns about declining numbers of caribou in Alaska, including in the same vicinity where Bristol Bay sockeye are thriving. The Mulchatna Herd, which roams land in and around Bristol Bay and other regions of Southwest Alaska, numbered around 200,000 caribou as recently as the early 1990s. But a 2019 survey totaled just about 13,000. And according to reports, the herd is hovering around 12,800 these days. Subsistence hunters objected to the closure of all Mulchatna hunts for 2022, something that hasn’t happened in years. Kenton Moos, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s Mulchatna Herd biologist, told KYUK Public Media that it’s not clear what the main reason for such a steep decrease in the caribou population is. But whatever the main culprit, the frustration level is high.
“my daddio doesn’t have social media but I feel the need to share these because he’s finally getting to mark duck hunting in Alaska off his bucket list. He works in healthcare, the past 2 years have been rough. The pure joy on his face makes me so happy.” -@amp0219 on Dec. 6
NOTABLE NUMBER
233.8
MILLION The number of salmon harvested by commercial fishermen in Alaska waters in 2021, per the state Department of Fish and Game
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
11
“ THEY SAID IT
Anchorage’s Matt Carle, who retired in 2016 after playing 730 National Hockey League games, is a passionate angler and gets back to Alaska every year to get in some of the state’s premier salmon fishing.
(MATT CARLE)
FROM THE ASJ ARCHIVES – JANUARY 2015
ANCHORAGE NATIVE AND FORMER NHL STAR MATT CARLE ON FISHING AND HOCKEY BACKGROUND
P
laying through pain. It’s the battle cry of hockey players. Get cross-checked into the glass? Shake it off. Take a puck off the kisser and lose a few teeth? Go see the dentist between periods and get back on the ice. When Matt Carle was 5 years old, he almost knew what his destiny was when he fished with his family on the Little Susitna River west of Anchorage. “We’d go over to the Little Su all the time. My dad had, and I’m not sure what year the boat was, a C-Dory. There was a cabin with a door that would go out toward the back of the boat where we’d do all the fishing, obviously,” Carle says. “We had a fish on and everyone was racing around the boat to try and get to the pole. And when I jumped up from inside the cabin (to run out) my thumb got stuck in the door jamb. I smashed my thumb, and I’m sitting there crying my eyes out but still trying to reel in that fish. I ended up landing the fish, and a couple days later my fingernail ended up falling off. So I considered myself being pretty tough for going through such a dramatic experience. So I started pretty young dealing with pain.” But that’s what made growing up in Alaska so much fun for Carle: the winters made it a natural environment to play hockey, and the summers provided enough daylight and surrounding water to grab the fishing gear and drop a line. … The Carle family, uncle and cousins alike, spent plenty of time traveling the Cook Inlet out of Anchorage to the Little Su. They also bought a cabin on Nancy Lake, 90 minutes north of Anchorage. That became a summer fishing and jet ski retreat – “I’m still shocked I would swim in water that cold,” Matt jokes – but also the occasional winter playground where snowmachines were ridden around the frozen ground when Matt and his brothers had no hockey commitments. -Chris Cocoles
12
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
“We thank Alaska’s Congressional Delegation for hosting this roundtable and are hopeful they will be champions for the core things Alaska’s wild salmon need, including more inclusive and comprehensive state and federal fishery management, reduction of salmon bycatch in the trawl fishery, protection of salmon strongholds like Bristol Bay, the Tongass, and Southeast Alaska’s transboundary rivers, and investment in salmon habitat restoration and climate resiliency. We’re at a point where inaction will lead to the complete loss of these wild salmon runs and the cultures and economies that they have supported for generations.”
”
–SalmonState Executive Director Tim Bristol on a December meeting to discuss the Yukon, Kuskokwim, Unalakleet, and Chignik River watersheds.
OUTDOOR CALENDAR*
KENAI PENINSULA
KENAI 1
Mountain goat season runs through Jan. 6 in Game Management Unit 6, covering the North Gulf Coast and Prince William Sound regions.
SOLDOTNA 2
HOMER
(PAIGE CALAMARI/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE)
KEY 1. Kenai River Suites kenairiversuites.com 2. King Salmondeaux Lodge kingsalmondeauxlodge.com
Jan. 1 Nonresident black bear hunting (without the use of registered guides) opens in GMU 2 (Prince of Wales Island) Jan. 1 Resident brown bear hunting opens in GMU 26 (Arctic Slope)
Jan. 15 Last day of resident moose hunting season in GMU 9B (King Salmon) Jan. 31 Last day of goat season in GMU 6 (North Gulf Coast/ Prince William Sound) Jan. 31 Last day of wolverine season in GMU 13 (Nelchina/ Upper Susitna) Feb. 5 Yukon Quest sled dog race begins, Fairbanks (yukonquest.com) Feb. 15 Last day of wolverine season in GMUs 3 (Petersburg/ Wrangell) and 4 (Admiralty/Baranof/Chichagof Islands)
2022 SPORTSMAN SHOWS Jan. 20-23 International Sportsman’s Exposition, Sacramento, California, Cal Expo (sportsexpos.com/attend/ sacramento) Feb. 2-6 Washington Sportsmen’s Show, Washington State Fair & Events Center, Puyallup, Washington (otshows.com) Feb 16-20 Pacific Northwest Sportsmen’s Show, Expo Center, Portland, Oregon (otshows.com) March 25-27 Mat-Su Outdoorsman Show, Menard Center, Wasilla (matsuoutdoorsmanshow.com) April 1-3 Great Alaska Sportsman Show, Dena’ina Civic and Convention Center, Anchorage (greatalaskasportsmanshow.com) April 8-10 Fairbanks Outdoor Show, Carlson Center (fairbanksevents.com/outdoor-show) For more information and season dates for Alaska hunts, go to adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=hunting.main. Note: Check with local contacts on events that could be postponed/ cancelled due to COVID-19 pandemic.
Located in the Heart of Soldotna, Alaska on the World Famous Kenai River! *Kenai Riverfront Suites *Full kitchens, 2 bedrooms *Jacuzzi Suite *Private River access for Fishing *Open year round kenairiversuites@gmail.com
www.kenairiversuites.com | (907)262-1992
• Kenai Riverfront Cabins • Bank Fishing • Over 700 ft. of River Frontage
907-260-FISH (3474) kingsalmondeaux33126@gmail.com www.kingsalmondeauxlodge.com
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
13
CASH IN ON KODIAK? TWO BOWHUNTERS TRY TO REPEAT A SUCCESSFUL 2020 GOAT HUNT ON A NEW ISLAND BY BRIAN WATKINS
I
n 2020 I was lucky enough to be part of a successful archery goat hunt in which good friend Trevor Embry and I went two for two on billies. We knew luck had been on our side then (Alaska Sporting Journal, December 2020), so we decided to try again this past year. We switched from hunting the rugged country of Southeast Alaska to the more forgiving mountains of Kodiak Island. That’s not to diminish the severity of Kodiak’s mountains, but we expected it to be a less physically demanding experience as we prepared for this latest adventure.
WE FLEW OUT OF Kodiak City with Island Air to the southern hunting unit. We had picked out three different lakes as possible dropoff points. The weather on Kodiak is unpredictable and often harsh, so it's best to always have backup options. We wanted to land on a lake above 1,500 feet so we would avoid the brush of the low country. Granted, doing it that way means that getting dropped off or picked up is a coin flip. And the odds are seemingly less than 50/50. Options can be picked based on other camps already hunting, clouds, wind and rain. We were able to be dropped off at our third lake of choice. There was heavy cloud cover and one quick opening above the lake we had picked out. You can’t hunt goats in Alaska on the same day as you fly in, so we were set to make
After a successful 2020 goat hunt in the more rugged mountains of Southeast Alaska, bowhunters Trevor Embry and Brian Watkins tried their luck on less steep Kodiak Island, which still provided some challenges for the guys. (BRIAN WATKINS)
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
15
“In the morning, (billies) feed back down for the first hour or two of the day,” author Watkins writes. “Then they will migrate back to their high perch and sit for the day.” There would be a lot of waiting when the opportunity was there. (BRIAN WATKINS)
The hunters’ initial game plan was to position themselves between the goats’ feeding and bedding areas to get a shot at animals on the move. (BRIAN WATKINS) 16
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
a game plan the day we landed. There are really two goat-hunting scenarios where you can tilt the odds of success a little more in your favor. The first is to sit and watch the goats and their daily rituals. In the darkness, the animals will bed just above the feeding ground to get away from predators. In the morning, they feed back down for the first hour or two of the day. Then they will migrate back to their high perch and sit for the day. Goats are lazy animals for most of the day, laying in the same area until it's time to feed again. I would say their path of travel between feeding and bedding is slightly adjusted based on weather. Billies tend to hang out in smaller groups, making it easier for them to get between feeding and bedding areas. If you’re archery hunting and want better odds of success, I suggest watching for a
Embry patiently held his ground for eight grueling hours on one day hoping to intercept billies, but was busted by a wind shift, leading him to try goat hunting’s second primary tactic. (BRIAN WATKINS)
minimum of two days before making the move to intercept. That is what we did.
WITH ANY HUNT, THE odds are stacked
against you. As famed archer Jack Frost says, hunting with a bow starts where hunting with a rifle ends. And closing that last 200 to 300 yards to get in bow range drops your odds considerably. We watched on the third day as Trevor snuck into his intercept point once two billies left their feeding area to bed for the day. He made his play as the goats walked back to their high point. As Trevor went into position with a goal of intercepting the billies at their evening feeding grounds, I went to hunt a different area. Eight long hours later, I was across the valley watching as the goats fed directly to Trevor. It was like watching a live TV hunting show as the two billies
The mountains of Kodiak might not be as daunting as the Alaska Panhandle’s, but the island’s vistas were still a sight to behold for the hunters. (BRIAN WATKINS) aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
17
fed directly at him. As they closed the distance, I felt the hair stand up on the side of my neck due to a shift in wind. As the goats got to 100 yards, that wind also betrayed Trevor’s position and he was caught. The billies fled the area and headed right back to their bedding ground. If he had been hunting with a rifle, it would’ve been a sure thing. But with a bow, the odds are against you tenfold.
AFTER A DAY OF sitting and waiting, Trevor was ready to try goat hunting option two. This is my favorite way, as my patience would not have lasted all those eight hours. You stalk into the goats while
they’re in their bedding area. The key to this is to use the wind in your favor and stay out of sight. The good thing about goats is they like to hang out in the gnarliest of terrain. That also provides a lot of features to hide behind. On this stalk, the goats were bedded in a banana-shaped valley. Where they were perched, they could see the entire bottom and other side, as the bend of the valley had a slight curve to it. We planned to go up the far side and hoped to hide as much as possible. Luck was on our side. It was a partly cloudy day and the fog was dropping and lifting into the valley consistently. As the fog dropped, we moved. We were able
The guys got their two goats, plus three deer, on this latest island adventure. They hope for continued success in 2022. (BRIAN
WATKINS)
18
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
to get on the ridge using this technique and get out of sight of the two billies. The wind was in our favor as well, blowing from the two goats back to us. We took our time and used the mountain to hide our movement. As we closed in, we ranged one of the billies at 95 yards. He was behind a small rock, but it allowed us to get all the way down to 18 yards. Trevor made a perfect shot and was successful in taking another goat. We ended up going two for two billies again, with three deer to boot. It was another successful archery goat hunt. Let’s hope for another great one in 2022! ASJ
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
19
For all the advantages of returning to his Oklahoma roots, there won’t be a lot of opportunities for Paul Atkins to catch chum salmon like he did back in Kotzebue, Alaska. Fishing was “one of my favorite things to do,” Atkins says of his two-plus-decades there. “So much so that it’s hard not to break out the rod and reel before setting camp.” (LEW PAGEL) 20
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
MISS IT OR DISS IT?
WHAT A FORMER ALASKAN CAN AND CAN’T DO WITHOUT NOW THAT HE’S LEFT THE ARCTIC BY PAUL D. ATKINS
I
t’s weird how different things are now when I look at my old life versus my new – or at least a newer one to me anyway. It’s almost like I live on a different planet. I feel like I’ve been transported in time. It’s not a bad thing, but it is very bizarre to me when I think about it. I’m talking about my life in Oklahoma now compared to my home in Alaska, where I spent the last 20plus years. Many people have asked me, “Do you miss it?” I say, “No, not really.” But I do; just not all of it. I’m glad to have retired from teaching. It was a great 23 years spent teaching the kids of the northwest Arctic, but there at the end I was getting a little burned out; no, a lot burned out, especially with COVID and the in-school, out-ofschool teaching schedule that we were required to do. It was brutal.
LOOKING BACK, THE WORST times were during the cold, dark months, and ironically that is what most people ask me about today more than any other topic. “How did you stand all that dark and cold?” they ask. I reply simply, “You just get used to it,” and then I’ll say, “It’s a ‘dry’ cold and you dress for it,” fully realizing they have no clue what I’m talking about. But if I’m being honest, I don’t miss the cold weather. I don’t miss stepping outside every day for months in subzero temperatures, which numbs the mind and dulls the senses, especially during the work week. And even though I’m not there anymore, I’m reminded of it every day by the scars on my cheeks from years of frostbite. They don’t hurt, but they’re there. I don’t miss shoveling snow either in those dark mornings of late winter after drifts have built themselves up during the night into huge wind-blown piles in front of
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
21
our door. So much so that I could barely see the car from the steps of our threebedroom castle. It was back-breaking work; with only a scoop shovel it took at least an hour. It was fast and furious work. Once it was done, the wind – that awful wind that I have written about so many times before – would blow the stuff I just shoveled back in. It was miserable. I don’t miss those mornings when nothing wants to start, which means my vehicles specifically: the car, the fourwheeler, the snowmachine. It didn’t matter what engines were in play; they wouldn't start, even though we plugged them in during the cold night. We bought our car, a 1995 Subaru, in 2007 from an elderly couple that was leaving town and only had 8,000 miles on it. With only 9 miles of road and a
1-mile drive to and from work, you can see why it had low miles, but it was as reliable as any car I have ever owned. It would start in most all weather conditions, the heater worked and so did the windshield wipers, along with the lights – four features that represent the bare necessities for what you need in a Kotzebue car. But if the temperature dipped below minus 33 it would not start, even if it was plugged in. It was almost like a magical cut-off point or something. There were many days that I would finally get it started and then just leave it running all day in the school parking lot. That wasn’t cheap with gas at $6 to $8 a gallon during those years, but I didn’t have to worry about starting it after school or ask for a jump!
After taking so many trips into the wilderness, the preparation became second nature. “We knew exactly what to pack and how to load it on the boat for a smooth ride upriver,” Atkins says. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 22
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
I don’t miss the high prices and bad vegetables either. Living in the Arctic has its challenges, none more so than the cost of living. Everything from gas to a can of soda is expensive, and it has nothing to do with being marked up or price gouging (most cases, anyway). It simply costs money to ship items to the Arctic. Everything must be flown in by an airplane of some kind, and we have no roads that go from one place to another. What we get comes with an extra price tag. When I first arrived a gallon of gas was $3.89; now it’s $5.49, but I saw it as high as $8 about 10 to 12 years ago. I saw $12 price tags for a gallon of milk and a Butterball turkey going for $90. Crazy, huh? But it’s all relative. You live here, you work hard, and they pay you well. I guess it works itself out.
IT SOUNDS LIKE I’M doing a lot of
complaining and I may be, but I stayed and made this corner of Alaska my home for 23 years, so it must not have been all that bad. There are many things that I do miss and as each day goes by, I think about them more and more. I also notice that time in the Lower 48 goes by much faster than it did in the Arctic. It scares me a little. The things I miss are many, some of
which are big and some minute. They’re things that maybe only my family or a close friend would know. I for sure miss hunting with my good friend Lew. That probably has been the hardest. I miss Lew’s boat and cruising upriver together while catching pike and chums and shooting bears. I miss gathering wood and sitting around our campfire drinking whiskey and reminiscing about our glory days. What Atkins doesn’t miss is the cold, which he spent a great deal of time in during his Alaska stint. He points out that it was minus 33 degrees when this photo was taken while he and Lew Pagel searched for muskox. At his Arctic home, the same low temperature reliably killed his Subaru, even if plugged in overnight. (LEW PAGEL)
24
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
I miss cutting meat in his shop. I miss Halloween too. Why? It’s the day I married my wife Susie, but as teachers it’s also a day – or I should say a night – that we got to see every kid in town that we’ve had in our class from past to present, and most cases the future. The Halloweeen candy was expensive but well worth it to see them all dressed up and in a different setting. I know a lot of Kotzebue residents would disagree with me on this one, but I miss ravens – those big, black, smart, beautiful birds that tear your trash apart no matter how tight you get the dumpster lid on. These birds, if trained probably, can be fed like a dog and sing on command. But most importantly – and I truly believe this – ravens will lead you to where the game is if you’re out in the country, especially when things are frozen and white. They’re intelligent. I miss blueberries and cranberries; not so much the berries themselves, but the act of picking them. Each fall, usually in mid-September, Susie would beg me to go pick berries with her. I would complain about it and say I didn’t want to go and cite the many reasons why: The mosquitoes are too bad, or the berries aren’t ripe, or it takes forever to fill a gallon jug – in our case, a coffee can. None of my excuses worked. So, after a short drive around the loop road, I would find myself with bug bites and stained knees while sitting on the tundra with Susie filling our cans. It was worth it in the end. There is nothing quite like pancakes and muffins made from true Alaskan berries. Even though spring hasn’t arrived, and it isn’t even close to April yet, I know I’m going to miss ice fishing. Heck, I’m missing it right now while sitting here at this computer in Oklahoma. I’m going to miss the whole escapade – the snowmachine drive to our secret spot, unloading the sled, drilling the hole, and then dropping the line. That slight jigging motion on your rod, and then, boom – the pull and the hookset and the hand over hand, eventually pulling the big sheefish through the ice. There aren’t many scenes quite like it and it’s something I can’t get in America’s Heartland.
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
25
Food in Alaska brings both good and bad memories for Atkins. The prices at the supermarket? “Costs are expensive due to shipping and there is no way around it,” he says. “Whether it’s $6 gas or $90 dollar turkey, things cost money in the Arctic.” But picking wild blueberries with his wife Susie outside town is cherished. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
HOWEVER, THERE ARE SOME memories I’m on the fence about when it comes to whether I miss them or not. The post office is one. For those who don’t know, a post office in an Alaska village is the epicenter of the community. Everyone goes there at least once a day
– sometimes more than once – and you see people that you don’t normally see anywhere else. If you have a package that needs to be picked up, they will place a yellow slip in your box and then you get in line to get it. This can be a good or bad thing,
Seen here from the south, Kotzebue, where Atkins and his family lived, is a beautiful village in the wintertime. There were many times the sight of town in the distance as they returned from a trip meant Atkins and his party were just about safely home. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
26
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
depending on how you look at it. The busiest times are noon and 4 p.m., when most people are on their lunch or off work. The line can get long and those people you don’t normally see get to visit with you for a long period of time. That’s the good and bad I was talking
about. Anyway, there were times that I waited over an hour to get a package. If not for the thought of getting something I needed or something sent from home, I probably wouldn’t have stood there. But looking back now, it was a place of comfort, a familiar place filled with a lot of those people I got to visit with who I miss now. Take-out delivery is another one. I miss Friday evenings and our weekly callout order. Every Friday after a long week of teaching we would call for take-out Oklahoma has some chilly winter days, but not enough to ice fish as regularly as Alaska offers locals throughout the snow and ice season. “I will miss this come March and April,” Atkins (above) admits. “It was a ritual, a rite of spring. Pulling a big fish through the ice is what Lew (right) and I lived for, as do many who live in and around Kotzebue Sound.” (LEW PAGEL)
28
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
Chinese food. We have been doing this for at least 20 years. It was the highlight after a long week at work. Kotzebue restaurants such as Bayside, Empress and Bison Street Store were all favorites. But favorites or not, I don’t miss those prices! Whoever thought Chinese food could be that expensive?
BUT OF ALL THE little things and the big things I miss or don’t miss, I long for the Alaska rivers like the mighty Noatak and the Kobuk and what they hold.
THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GUN CLEANING
Goes on wet, cleans, bonds, turns DRY! DRY LUBRICANT • • • • • • •
Improves accuracy Prevents jamming Won’t flash off Will not freeze Non-hazardous Reduces fouling Won’t harm wood, primers, old guns, or stain clothing! • Bio preferred by USDA • Non-petroleum
KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR OUR NEW LOOK COMING SOON!
801-569-2763 800-248-LUBE (5823) prolix@prolixlubricant.com prolixlubricant.com
Being anchored up to a sand bar either to fish or wait for bears to show up along the river bank was always so exciting and new each time Atkins and Pagel experienced it. “We had such a grand time,” Atkins says. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
And what does this Alaskan and Oklahoman miss most of all now that he’s back in the Midwest? The rivers like the Noatak, where he’s enjoyed so many memories. “This is our old base camp. Will I ever see it again? I hope so,” Atkins says nostalgically. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 30
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
Those were cool and crisp rides up into the country to see what we could see. Where we could find solitude, a place to camp and a flat spot to pitch a tent. Where there was plenty of firewood and the mosquitoes weren’t too bad. Where bear tracks lined the bank and the chums splashed out front in the slow current while waiting on the flash of a pink Pixie. I miss eating MREs sitting in a camp chair. I miss my friend. I miss Alaska. ASJ Editor’s note: Paul Atkins is an Oklahomabased outdoor writer and author formerly of Kotzebue, Alaska, and who is also a regular contributor to Alaska Sporting Journal. He’s had hundreds of articles published on big game hunting in Alaska and throughout North America and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic. His new book Atkins’ Alaska is available on Amazon and everywhere good books are sold. It can also be ordered through his website paulatkinsoutdoors. com. For an autographed copy, contact Paul at atkinsoutdoors@gmail.com.
Cumberland’s Northwest Trappers Supply, Inc. Cumberland’s Northwest Trappers Supply is your one-stop trapping supply headquarters, featuring one of the largest inventories in the U.S. We are factory direct distributors on all brands of traps and equipment which allows us to offer competitive prices. Give us a try. Our fast, friendly service will keep you coming back. Over 50 Years Of Service To The Trap & Fur Industry
Request A Catalog Or Place An Order By Phone, Mail Or On Our Website If you get in the area, visit our store!
We are the new home of “Trappers Hide Tanning Formula” in the bright orange bottle. Retail & dealer inquiries are welcome.
P.O. Box 408, Owatonna, Minnesota 55060 • (507) 451-7607 trapper@nwtrappers.com • www.nwtrappers.com aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
31
FIELD
World-renowned wildlife photographer Gary Kramer traveled to 40 countries over the past four years to photograph every duck, goose and swan in the world, and they’re all in his latest coffee table book, Waterfowl of the World. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
THE WATERFOWL WHISPERER HAVE CAMERA WILL TRAVEL FOR WILDLIFE PHOTOG/ADVENTURER GARY KRAMER BY SCOTT HAUGEN
I
“
think I just got the shot,” whispered Gary Kramer as he scrolled through the screen on his camera. We were laying side-by-side, photographing ducks last winter. “Of what, pintails?” I came back with a smirk. “Yep, I have lots of pintail images, but that was the perfect drake and hen shot
for the book,” Kramer announced as he zoomed in for a closer look. It was one of multiple shoots I joined Kramer on last winter while he wrapped up the biggest undertaking by one man when it comes to documenting the world’s waterfowl. Kramer’s book features his photographs of 165 of the 167 waterfowl species in the world. (GARY KRAMER)
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
33
FIELD
Dolly Varden might not be as popular as salmon or halibut in terms of fishy Alaska table fare, but as Tiffany Haugen can attest, they offer great options. (TIFFANY HAUGEN)
O s A v b r
HELLO, DOLLY! TRY THIS FISH SMOKED BY TIFFANY HAUGEN
L
ast year we lived in Hyder, Alaska, where we had access to Dolly Varden much of the year. We’ve caught and cooked them many ways over the years, but as much as we ate last year, I was reminded just how good these fish are. Smaller-sized Dollies – or trout of any kind, even landlocked salmon – are great cooked up to serve as single portions, but if looking to preserve them to use in a variety of ways, try smoking them. There’s not much to it: simply fillet,
34
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
brine and smoke. Once a fish is smoked, it’s even easier to remove the pin bones so it can be eaten fresh from the smoker or prepared for something else. Toss smoked, flaked Dolly Varden (or trout) into a hot or cold dip, on a salad or pizza or into a favorite pasta dish. Four to six whole Dolly Varden (or trout) 6 cups water ½ cup white sugar ⅓ cup kosher salt 1 tablespoon black pepper 2 teaspoons granulated garlic 1 teaspoon granulated onion Prepare fish by cleaning and scaling. Keep refrigerated until ready to brine. Fillet fish and remove rib bones. In a large glass dish or crock, mix sugar, salt, pepper, garlic and onion until ingredients are dissolved. Add fish to brine and refrigerate eight to 10 hours. Remove fish from brine and let air dry on smoker racks up to one hour.
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
Preheat smoker to 160 to 180 degrees. Place racks in the smoker, add chips to smoker pan and let smoke two to four hours or until fish reaches desired doneness. For a light smoke flavor, use one pan of chips. For a stronger smoke flavor use two pans of chips. Remove fish from smoker and keep refrigerated until ready to eat. Vacuum seal and freeze for longer-term storage. Know that winter temperatures will greatly slow the smoking process, so wrapping the smoker in a m a n u f a c t u re ra p p r o v e d insulation blanket is a good idea. Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany’s popular book, Cooking Seafood and other bestselling titles, visit tiffanyhaugen.com.
T b E t r
Visit Us At These Sportsman Shows SALT LAKE CITY Booth #1530 PUYALLUP Booth #421 PORTLAND Booth #1448
Remote, Comfortable & Affordable
Our remote Alaskan fishing lodge is situated on the upper stretches of the beautiful Egegik River. You’ll watch some of Alaska’s most stunning sunrises, complete with a distant, active volcano. We are a fishing camp specializing in coho fishing, brown bear viewing, and flyout fishing adventures to even more remote destinations in the Last Frontier.
Coho Fishing The Egegik River
The Egegik River is touted by many experienced anglers as the best silver salmon stream in all of Alaska. Becharof Lodge On The Egegik River was the first fishing lodge to become established on the breathtaking Egegik River, and is less than a 5 minute boat ride from some of the best fishing holes on the entire river.
Now Booking for 2022 Coho Fishing Trips Included in your fishing trip: • 5 days fishing/5 nights stay in camp • Experienced, fully guided fishing. • Comfortable cabins furnished with beds, cozy comforters & bedding. • Home cooked meals, snacks, and nonalcoholic beverages. • Transportation from the lodge to prime fishing holes on the Egegik River. • Freezing and vacuum sealing of your fish, up to 50 lbs., per angler.
$4,350
per person
Includes round trip charter from King Salmon. Call for more details.
Book Your Trip Today!
Mark Korpi: 503-741-1333 or 503 298 9686 George Joy: 360-562-7701 Email: becharoffishing@gmail.com
becharoflodgefishing.com
FIELD
Kramer has traveled to Alaska’s Arctic multiple times to photograph king eiders, the pinnacle for waterfowl hunters around the world. (GARY KRAMER)
36
AN OUTDOOR LIFE
WORLDWIDE WATERFOWL HAVENS
I’ve been a fan of Kramer’s work for decades. I like his writing style. I love his photography and his drive for perfection in every shot he publishes. Born and raised in California, Kramer’s passion for the outdoors took root at an early age. Starting in the late 1970s, Kramer landed a job as a wildlife biologist for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in California. Over the next 26 years he worked on four national wildlife refuges, including a 10-year stint as refuge manager of the Sacramento National Wildlife Refuge Complex. There, he made unprecedented changes and impacts, which resulted in attracting the highest concentration of waterfowl on any refuge complex in the U.S.
If you’ve driven through some of these refuges watching or photographing ducks and geese, you know what Kramer did. Strategically placed logs and habitat, clever road designs for good morning and evening light angles, and bringing in gravel that allows birds to stand and gather grit, are just some of the strides he made as a manager that benefited birds and waterfowl enthusiasts alike. But Kramer’s latest undertaking could be his most spectacular of all, as he recently completed a nearly four-year journey to more than 40 countries in which he photographed 165 of the 167 waterfowl species in the world. No one has ever accomplished this, let alone captured such stunning images that are
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
highlighted in his latest book, Waterfowl of the World. Kramer has always been a stickler for composing shots with perfect lighting in natural habitats at unique angles that make viewers feel as if they are there. Kramer ventured into the native habitat and some of the most remote corners of the world to get the highest-quality images possible for this project. Once home in Willows, California, where he checked the images on his big screen, if Kramer didn’t like what he saw, he went back multiple times to multiple places to get the perfect shot.
A DREAM TOUR Waterfowl of the World is a once-in-alifetime work. In fact, this book is at such a
high level, I have my doubts it will ever be equaled, let alone surpassed. The photos alone are worth the price of admission, but by including the informative text, maps and adventure stories, this is truly a special book that will meet the interests and needs of many people on a global scale. If you’re a waterfowl hunter, this book is a must-have. While captivating photos keep me coming back, it’s Kramer’s photographer’s notes that I most appreciate. Perhaps that’s because I, too, am a professional photographer and I know I couldn’t come close to achieving what Kramer did in this masterpiece, especially on the level he did. The stories of Kramer’s travels to complete Waterfowl of the World would be a worthy read, in and of itself, as there’s no end to the challenges and hardships he faced. Like the time he traveled to the remote mountains of Papua New Guinea to photograph Salvadori’s teal in their native habitat, which is most common above 8,000 feet. Kramer first traveled to Australia, followed by Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea’s capital, and he then boarded a domestic flight to the town of Tabubil to find these teal. After over 9,000 miles traveled and five days of sitting in a blind on a remote mountain stream from daylight to dark, in the final 30 minutes Kramer got the shots he came for, a pair
of Salvadori’s teal. There was also a trip to capture the Madagascar pochard, the rarest waterfowl in the world and presumed extinct for 15 years, until its 2006 rediscovery on the island nation off the southeast coast of the African continent. Following three days of commercial air travel from California to Antananarivo, Madagascar, Kramer spent 10 hours driving on treacherous roads for the next few days before embarking upon a 30-minute hike down a slippery slope, where he finally pitched camp near a secluded lake. The next morning he wasted no time hopping in a canoe with a local guide, and five minutes later captured what are likely the best images ever taken of these rare ducks.
MORE DUCK TALES UNTOLD
The adventures continue, but it’s the stories behind the two ducks Kramer was unable to photograph that stand strong in my mind, primarily because of the effort Kramer put in and the money he was willing to invest to photograph these ducks. One was the Eaton’s pintail, which is only found on two subantarctic islands in the Southern Ocean, which encircles Antarctica. Despite Kramer’s willingness to travel 30 days by ship and spend over $20,000 of his own money, the French
territory administration denied his multiple requests to visit the island and refused to issue him a scientific permit. No reason was ever given. With the printing of Waterfowl of the World, it’s likely Gary Kramer will have published more photos of waterfowl than anyone on Earth, 1,299 of them in this book alone. The 540-page coffee table work features all 167 species of ducks, geese and swans on Earth. As Dr. John Eadie of UC Davis points out in the book’s foreword, “Waterfowl of the World is an extraordinary accomplishment and a testament to Gary Kramer’s and John Mensik’s (text contributor) long, professional history and expertise in waterfowl ecology and management, and even more importantly, Gary’s superb photography.” Waterfowl of the World can be ordered at GaryKramer.net. Signed standard edition books are $99, postpaid in the U.S. There’s also a limited edition of 250 signed and numbered books that come in a slipcase and leather-like cover with gold embossing for $250. If you’re interested in waterfowl, you can’t go wrong with either option, as this will be a collector’s item for decades to come. ASJ Editor’s note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen's popular books, visit scotthaugen .com. Follow Scott on Instagram and Facebook.
Alaska’s most prized goose is the emperor. And seasons are now open for limited hunting opportunities. Gary Kramer has photographed these geese throughout their range in Alaska. (GARY KRAMER)
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
37
The Salmon & Steelhead spinners & spoons that Fishermen can rely on every time for high quality and dependability. You can find these incredible American made lures at these fine sporting goods stores, Sportco, Sportsman’s Warehouse, Fisherman’s Marine and Englund Marine or at
mcomiescustomlures.com
mcomiescustomlures.com | 971-271-3860 38
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
OUTDOOR TIPS OF THE MONTH
BRACE YOURSELF FOR HUNTING’S COLD WARS Editor’s note: Each month, our Paul Atkins will offer a tip outdoorsmen and -women can use as they prepare for an Alaska adventure. This month: Getting ready to hunt in seriously cold weather. BY PAUL D. ATKINS
M
y hands were freezing and the thought of drawing back a bow in such cold weather scared me. But the muskox bull in front of me couldn’t wait, so wrapped in
several layers of clothes I carefully drew the bow back and placed the 20-yard pin right behind his shoulder. All the time I prayed my bow wouldn’t explode in the minus 30-degree weather. It didn’t and moments later we had a muskox down.
THE COLDEST OF HUNTS Hunting in extreme cold can be tough on anybody, especially when you’re using a bow. Unlike a rifle that will usually perform in most conditions, a bow takes special
care and attention. If you’re careful, it is just as deadly as anything you could use. However, a rifle needs care too and consideration needs to be taken if you plan to use one in cold weather. Hunting in Alaska during the months of January, February and March can be brutal. Below-zero temperatures and fierce winds combined with snow and ice can be tough not only physically, but mentally as well. Making sure you have everything in order and are prepared long before you leave is the key to not
For many Alaskans, especially those who participate in subsistence hunts this time of year, hunting in the heart of the state’s brutal winters means being prepared for the harshest of weather conditions. Author Paul Atkins recommends having a good tent like an Arctic Oven, which will help keep the chill out. (PAUL D. ATKINS) aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
39
Like ATVs and pick-ups in the Lower 48, snowmachines are the main winter mode of transport for bow and rifle hunters in the Last Frontier. Without snow no hunting takes place. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
only success, but in most cases survival. SUBSISTENCE HUNTS MORE COMMON There aren’t a whole lot of open seasons for big game in Arctic Alaska during the heart of winter. The hunts that are open are considered subsistence and usually for residents, but as the year progresses nonresident hunts become available, with spring bears being the most popular. Black bear hunting is legendary come May and June, especially in the southern part of the state, but when you head out for muskox or small game in frigid conditions, you need to be prepared. For example, muskox hunting, which has become very popular in the state, can be tough if you are new to it, and even more so if unguided. Most hunts occur when the thermometer is right at or below zero and then, to add to the adventure, you have to get to your
hunting tag unit – which may cover an area the size of Iowa – and find the animal or animals you’re after in some of the most miserable weather you can experience. And on top of extreme low temperatures, you have to be able to shoot your bow or rifle at a moment when shot placement and shooting in general can be quite a challenge.
KEEP YOUR ACCURACY SHARP Unlike the Lower 48, most of the big game seasons here in Alaska end in September, so when January and February roll around (unless you have been shooting indoors or in some kind of league) getting back in the groove of shooting can be tough. You also have to remember that you will be shooting outside in who knows what kind of position while bundled up in more layers of clothes than imaginable, so practice is
When hunting the long, cold, dark months in search of either big game or small, you need to be prepared mentally and physically. An Alaskan winter will test even the best hunter, but if you plan ahead, practice and make sure you have all the necessary gear, it can be one of the greatest times of the year. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 40
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
a must. Getting your gear to perform in these situations is also the key to filling your tag.
ACCLIMATE YOUR WEAPONS Whether bowhunting or using a rifle, there are a couple things that will enhance the performance and also make it a little safer. One of the first moves I make to get ready is to store my bow or rifle outside. This way they can acclimate to the cold weather and reduce any stress that can be caused by sudden temperature changes. Bow limbs and risers suddenly taken from a warm environment to extreme cold can go into shock, crack or, even worse, explode. I learned this the hard way many years ago while shooting in my own backyard. It was cold, below zero, and after a couple of shots that felt totally wrong, I found the problem: two cracks
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
41
“A perfect set-up allowed me to arrow this fine muskox bull at 17 yards,” Atkins says. “The extreme part was getting to him. Wearing ‘bunny boots,’ I had to climb a steep, rocky cliff covered in ice while carrying a pack and a bow. It was tricky.” Indeed, as Atkins reminds, hunting in these conditions isn’t easy. Just know what you might be getting into. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
had magically appeared on both limbs. It was an expensive lesson, but luckily no one was hurt. Rifles are the same way, and if it’s cold enough they can freeze up from excess oil and other contaminants that can make them slow to react and fire. A clean and dry rifle is a must.
COLD, HARD TRUTH
Shooting anytime is about as grand an experience as I can think of, but shooting in extreme cold isn’t much fun. Besides the layers and layers of clothing you have to shoot around, you also have to be able to work the bolt or feel the trigger on your release. For me this is a tough ordeal. Most people can shoot with gloves on. There are also several shooting gloves made specifically for hunters. The problem, however, is they are not made for hunting muskox at minus 35. I have tried to shoot with the big bulky type of gloves made for the Arctic, but they just
42
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
don’t work. I’ve also shot bare-handed. The burning feeling of skin peeling off your hands isn’t a pleasant one, nor is the frostbite that usually occurs afterwards. I’ve found that cotton glove liners or any among the Sitka brand work really well. They fit nicely into an oversized set of mittens; then, when the moment of truth arrives, shed the mittens and you’re set.
HOW TO GET THERE
Traveling to the place you’re going to hunt this time of year can be a challenge too. Most winter and early spring hunts are done using snowmachines and sleds. It’s not unlike getting in your truck or quad and driving to your favorite place to hunt deer or other animals. Snowmachines are the normal mode of transport for these types of hunts. It’s actually a lot of fun. You’ll not only have a snowmachine but also a sled that you pull behind. The sled is to haul all your
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
gear, plus it helps in getting your animal or animals back home.
KNOW WHAT YOU’RE GETTING INTO Most people who hunt want to get away from it all and experience the solitude of the great outdoors. If your plans are to chase birds, rabbits or even muskox during Alaska’s cold months, remember to plan ahead, practice with your gear and let somebody know where you’re going and when you plan to be back. Cell phones don’t work everywhere and cold weather can be unforgiving on equipment, even elite gear. But hunting in the snow and ice can be a grand experience; just remember to enjoy your time and be prepared before and after the shot. ASJ Editor’s note: Got a question for Paul on Alaska hunting or fishing? Email editor Chris Cocoles at ccocoles@media-inc.com.
LIGHTWEIGHT. LIGHTWEIGHT. The lightest 200-hp four stroke The lightest 200-hp four stroke on the market on the market
POWERFUL. POWERFUL.
2.8L displacement and Variable Camshaft 2.8Lgive displacement Variable Camshaft Timing it the bestand power-to-weight ratio Timing give it the best power-to-weight ratio of any 200-hp four stroke of any 200-hp four stroke
COMPACT. COMPACT.
Nearly 120 pounds lighter than our Nearly 120 pounds lighter than our four-stroke V6 F200 four-stroke V6 F200
THE ALL-NEW F200 IN-LINE FOUR. THE ALL-NEW F200 IN-LINE FOUR.
FORWARD THINKING. THINKING. FORWARD
Show the water who’s boss with the new F200 In-Line Four. Incredibly light, responsive and fuel efficient, Show theup water who’s boss with the new F200aIn-Line Incredibly responsive andalternator fuel efficient, it serves plenty of muscle to handily propel varietyFour. of boats. On toplight, of that, its 50-amp offers itthe serves up plenty of muscle to handily propel a variety of boats. On top of that, its 50-amp alternator power to add a range of electronics, and its 26-inch mounting centers and compatibility with eitheroffers the power tooradd a range of electronics, and its 26-inch mounting centers compatibility withExperience either mechanical digital controls give you the flexibility to easily upgrade yourand outboard or rigging. mechanical or digital controls give you the flexibility to easily upgrade your outboard or rigging. Experience legendary Yamaha reliability and the freedom of forward thinking, with the all-new F200 In-Line Four. legendary Yamaha reliability and the freedom of forward thinking, with the all-new F200 In-Line Four.
WASHINGTON OLYMPIA US Marine Sales & Service 3525 Pacific Ave. SE (360) 455-0788 www.usmarinesales.com
YamahaOutboards.com/F200InLine YamahaOutboards.com/F200InLine
Follow Yamaha on Facebook® and Twitter™ Follow Yamaha on Facebook® and Twitter™ REMEMBER to always observe all applicable boating laws. Never drink and drive. Dress properly with a USCG-approved personal REMEMBER to always observe all applicable boating laws. Never drink and drive. Dress properly with a USCG-approved personal
intended to be an endorsement. © 2013 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved. intended to be an endorsement. © 2013 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
43
P
44
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
PUSHING HARD FOR PERMANENT BRISTOL BAY PROTECTIONS BY BJORN DIHLE
F
or more than two decades, those who care about Bristol Bay – the largest sockeye salmon run on the planet – have been fighting the proposed Pebble Mine, a massive open-pit mine and waste storage proposed for the headwaters of the region. And now, it seems at long last that the end is in sight. Pebble’s history in Bristol Bay is long, full of jumps forward and backward. For the last year, however, protections for this one-of-a-kind region have been moving forward. On November 25, 2020, the U.S.
Army Corps of Engineers denied Pebble Limited Partnership a key permit for the proposed Pebble Mine Project. The project, they determined, did not comply with Clean Waters Act guidelines, and that it was contrary to public interest. The vast majority of Bristol Bay residents, as well as fishermen and conservationists, celebrated.
GEOLOGISTS CONSIDER THE PEBBLE deposit
the largest untapped resource of gold and copper in the world, estimating it to be worth around $500 billion. With that
amount of money at stake, the fight isn’t over until permanent protections are in place – even with this permit denied, Pebble could still become a reality. Veteran bear viewing guide Drew Hamilton and veteran bear hunting guide Tia Shoemaker (Alaska Sporting Journal, November 2020) couldn’t agree more that Bristol Bay needs permanent protections. Hamilton calls Bristol Bay “the overlap in ecology and economy that will protect, support and sustain Alaskans in the future, just as it has done for tens of thousands of years.
Fishing boat crews, who rely on the productivity of Bristol Bay salmon runs, are among those with a lot at stake in the fight to implement permanent protections to a region that could see a large mine established. (PRIDE OF BRISTOL BAY) aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
45
He added, “It’s a unique and wild place that needs to be protected from politicians who can’t see past the next election cycle and view Alaska as some sort of natural resource warehouse.” Shoemaker calls Bristol Bay the “Serengeti of Alaska – truly one of the last, great game fields.” She’s calling on hunters to protect their own interests by defending one of the most ecologically rich and pristine wild places on Earth. “Habitat destruction and the evergrowing need for ‘more’ are among the biggest threats hunters face today. Without permanent protection for Bristol Bay, the threat of an open-pit mine proposed by foreign-owned companies looms over us,” Shoemaker said.
SO, HOW DOES BRISTOL
Bay get permanent protections? Bristol Bay
organizations, including United Tribes of Bristol Bay, Bristol Bay Native Association and Bristol Bay Economic Development Corporation, see it as a two-part process, the first part of which can – and should – happen as soon as possible. The first step is the Environmental Protection Agency solidifying Clean Waters Act Section 404(c) protections, preventing mining industries from using the headwaters of Bristol Bay “as a disposal site, whenever [the EPA] determines … that the discharge of such materials into such area will have an unacceptable adverse effect on municipal water supplies, shellfish beds and fishery areas (including spawning and breeding areas), wildlife, or recreational areas.” After a twice-peer-reviewed study, the EPA issued a 404(c) Proposed
A school of sockeye splash around a Bristol Bay lake. Last year’s run of reds topped 63 million, an all-time record. (MARY CATHARINE MARTIN)
46
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
Determination – essentially, proposed protections – in 2014. Pebble sued. Then, in 2019, EPA Administrator Scott Pruitt had a closed-door meeting with disgraced Pebble CEO Tom Collier (ASJ, October 2020). Hours later, Pruitt announced he was withdrawing the assessment. (If you’re wondering about the disgrace, in 2020, the Environmental Investigation Agency released secret videotapes of Collier and Northern Dynasty CEO Ron Thiessen bragging with actors posing as investors about their close relationships with Alaska politicians and their direct line to the White House through Alaska Governor Mike Dunleavy, a promoter of the mine. The tapes blew up, Alaska’s senators made clear that they oppose Pebble Mine and Collier resigned.) Still, Pruitt’s decision breathed new life into Pebble. On October 29 of this past
“This precious, priceless habitat can not only continue to produce salmon in abundance, but this last remaining salmon stronghold, left intact, might teach the world how to restore habitats that have been lost to destructive developments,” fishing industry professional Melanie Brown says. (MARY CATHARINE MARTIN)
year, however, the United States District Court for the State of Alaska ruled in favor of Trout Unlimited, overturning the Environmental Protection Agency’s 2019 decision to withdraw those protections – and now the EPA’s 2014 Proposed Determinatio, which made it clear that large-scale mining would have negative impacts on Bristol Bay’s fisheries and ecosystems, is back in place, just as it was in 2014. Shortly after that, the EPA announced a timeline for the next steps now that the proposed determination is back in place: in agency-speak, a recommended determination, then final determination. They plan to get to the recommended determination before the salmon return this year, which means protections could formally be in place with a final determination next summer. In the announcement made in November, EPA Region 10 acting Regional Administrator Michelle Pirzadeh said that Bristol Bay “highlights the essential benefits that clean water provides to the environment and to communities across the country,” and that the announcement 48
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
“underscores EPA’s commitment to making science-based decisions to protect our natural environment, prevent pollution, and protect a sustainable future for all Americans.” The second thing that will need to happen is legislation protecting all of Bristol Bay – essentially, an act of Congress. Alaska’s senior senator, Lisa Murkowski, has been speaking about this with those working to defend the region. The first step, though – EPA protections – is the one already in play. Section 404(c) protections have been completed only 13 times in the Clean Water Act’s 50-year history. They have been proposed, but not completed, 30 times. There is likely no other place more deserving of these protections than Bristol Bay, as 2021’s record run of 66 million sockeye highlights. The fishery supports 15,000 jobs and annually brings in $2 billion. There are also the millions of dollars generated by the guiding industry that supports Drew Hamilton, Tia Shoemaker and others.
THERE’S MORE AT STAKE than just
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
economics, however. Indigenous fishermen Melanie Brown (ASJ, October 2020) and Triston Chaney’s families have lived in Bristol Bay since time immemorial. Brown setnets in the Naknek District with four generations of her family and views Bristol Bay as a beacon of hope in an imperiled world. “The land and waters of Bristol Bay have provided for its people and the world for millennia. This precious, priceless habitat can not only continue to produce salmon in abundance, but this last remaining salmon stronghold, left intact, might teach the world how to restore habitats that have been lost to destructive developments,” Brown said. Chaney works with his grandpa on a drift-netter in the Nushagak District (ASJ, August 2020). After the sockeye season, he guides sport fishermen after monster rainbow trout and other worldclass fishing opportunities. “Bristol Bay is a place of magic, with salmon runs easily surpassing 50 million, trophy sports fishing and wildlife viewing anyone can dream of. This place needs all the protection it can get from
human development,” Chaney said. Commercial fishing captain and direct seafood marketer Steve Kurian (ASJ, May 2021) summed up a lot of peoples’ feelings about Pebble. “It’s not just about the major loss of commercial fishing industry jobs that would happen as Pebble came into place. It’s about the loss of heritage and nourishment for those who have called Bristol Bay home for generations, and about permanently losing the opportunity and access as a country to one of the most nutritious wild proteins left on the planet. That some would be willing to put that all at risk, just for Pebble – it’s mind-blowing," Kurian said. The ball is now in the EPA’s court. Bristol Bay tribes, fishermen, scientists and conservationists are hopeful the agency will finalize Bristol Bay Clean Waters Act Section 404(c) protections. Once these protections are granted, advocates for Bristol Bay are calling on Congress to introduce and pass legislation preventing future administrations from again attempting
As author Bjorn Dihle writes, “The ball is now in the EPA’s court,” when it comes to ensuring the forever mandates to protect the region become a reality. (PRIDE OF BRISTOL BAY)
to reverse the EPA’s decision, and to permanently protect Bristol Bay’s fisheries and watersheds from largescale mining projects like Pebble. ASJ Editor’s note: Pride of Bristol Bay is a free
column written by Bjorn Dihle and provided by its namesake, a fisherman-direct seafood marketer that specializes in delivering the highest quality of sustainably caught wild salmon from Bristol Bay to your doorstep. Go to prideofbristolbay.com for more.
Many in Bristol Bay aren’t necessarily anti-mining, but they don’t want this unique ecosystem threatened by a catastrophic mine accident. The Pebble Mine deposit lies at the bay’s headwaters, home of the world’s greatest salmon fishery. (COLIN ARISMAN)
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
49
BACK TO ALASKA AND BACKING OUR HEROES DISABLED VETERANS SAVOR LAST FRONTIER SALMON FISHING BY CHRIS COCOLES
A
laska is becoming something of a second home for Randy Houston, but the fishing trips he’s taken to the Ketchikan area mean so much more. Houston’s Alaska experiences have been a chance to sit back and watch some of his heroes catch the fish and, more importantly, find a sense of purpose and peace in their lives. Such a cycle never gets old for the 72-year-old Houston, whose Californiabased Purple Heart Anglers last year continued a tradition of raising money to send disabled veterans on fishing and hunting adventures. In October, Houston and his charity hosted several wounded warriors who served in various combat tours in American wars on a memorable salmon fishing trip to Ketchikan. “This was our eighth trip and we had 12 total this year,” Houston said
A dozen visitors – led by veterans who were wounded in combat – headed to Ketchikan in October. San Francisco-area-based Randy Houston (inset) arranged an eighth trip there with his Purple Heart Anglers organization that gets our veterans outdoors. (PURPLE HEART ANGLERS)
aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
51
Houston is grateful for his volunteers as well as businesses like Ketchikan’s Gillmore Hotel, which has selflessly provided lodging for Purple Heart Anglers trip participants during their Alaska adventures. (PURPLE HEART ANGLERS)
in late 2021 of this latest visit to the Last Frontier, which included himself, veterans and volunteers who were on hand to help out. “It’s a great trip. The vets, they just have a blast. It’s emotional, but at the same time it’s a lot of fun. We had several up there who had never been to Alaska. And some of them had never caught a salmon before. Firsts and firsts.” In all, the vets brought home about 34 pounds of salmon fillets apiece, but as most of these journeys have gone during Purple Heart Anglers’ neardecade of existence, it’s a whole lot more than just catching fish. “It’s such a broad range of (emotions). My wife calls it calm exhilaration,” said Houston, who started Purple Heart Anglers back in the early 2010s to honor his late brother Jerry, who earned two Purple Hearts and a Bronze Star for Valor in Vietnam (Alaska Sporting Journal, November 2016). 52
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
“When it started out years ago, people asked why I do what I do, and I said I wanted to do something with my brother, and it has just morphed into what it is. And over the years we’ve now had over 3,000 disabled vets out, and that doesn’t even include their families and all the volunteers who have gotten out with us. Now I do it because it needs to be done.” It’s been quite a ride for all involved. The emotions have been at high levels for the wounded vets who gathered for the trips. Houston said many of the stories he’s heard are not prudent to print, and while Purple Heart Anglers prides itself on the notion that, “We don’t do politics and we don’t do therapy,” Houston embraces the importance of helping bring these brave men and women a sense of normalcy and peace after they sacrificed so much in battle. “To see the vets up there enjoying
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
the country that they served and protected, and being able to give them an opportunity to do that, (it’s special) to see the looks on their faces,” Houston said, also understanding that as the years have gone by he’s had to say painful good-byes. “On the way back I was talking to one of our volunteers and I looked up the photos that I’ve got from the past, and we’ve probably lost 10 (people) who have passed away.” But for many of them, this Alaska trip and all the other fishing and hunting adventures have provided memories for everyone who participated or helped pave the way for the excursions. Houston is based in the San Francisco Bay Area coastal community of Half Moon Bay, but he plans to relocate to Oregon soon. But you can bet he’ll get back to Ketchikan again, presumably with a new group of servicemen or -women. Certainly he’s gotten something out of
the experiences as well. ‘“To see them, it gives me personally a sense of satisfaction, saying thank you for what they've done and also what they’ve done for me and my family,” Houston said. “All of the stuff that they went through to be of service to me. And to be able to stand there and catch fish was something I won’t forget … I’m proud of the people who are involved with (Purple Heart Anglers). It’s just an amazing thing to watch.”
PURPLE HEART ANGLERS’ ALASKA trips have received generosity and time from organizations like Ketchikan’s Gilmore Hotel (907-225-9423), which hosted the group, and local fishing guides from Oasis Alaska Charters (907-302-4115; oasisalaskacharters.com), who helped send everyone home with plenty of salmon fillets. “The Gilmore Hotel has been on our side since day one. We’ve got a (Purple Heart Anglers) plaque that hangs on their entry across from the front desk, a ‘Thank you for everything you’ve done.’ And they treat us with respect and dignity. They care.”
Ketchikan’s Oasis Alaska Charters also generously donated their time and boats to get the wounded warriors out on the water. (PURPLE HEART ANGLERS)
As for Oasis Alaska Charters, Houston added, “They go way past what normal is. Last year when Covid was going on, they had just bought a new van, and instead of having us take taxis they gave us the keys to the van to use in getting us to and back for the fishing. And they don’t do that for everybody.” Houston raved about the guides’ generosity to his organization and has appreciated just about everyone he’s interacted with on his multiple trips to the Last Frontier and specifically in Ketchikan. “The taxi cab drivers, they know who we are. They remember us from the years’ prior. They’re always there to welcome us and to take us wherever we want to go – even on side trips like to go see the bears. They don’t charge us for that. They just take us. Everybody cares and they treat the vets with the respect that I consider to be due.” And the now-annual trips to Alaska have become standard for Houston. aksportingjournal.com | JANUARY 2022
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
53
Before even heading back to the Lower 48 in October, he had already made arrangements for a 2022 return for a new group of fishing vets. “It’s one of those trips of a lifetime,” he said. When asked to share some of his most recent interactions with those he gets out to fish and hunt, Houston only agreed to get specific if the conversation was off the record. It was understandable why. The stories of PTSD effects can be too horrifying to print. But that’s part of what inspires Houston to keep this journey going to honor his late brother Jerry, a decorated Vietnam Army veteran who passed away in 2011. Purple Heart Anglers was born when Jerry died. Houston had no military connection himself except for his big brother, and almost a decade later he can’t see himself not continuing the commitment he made to doing what he can for these American heroes. Even as he turned 72 this past November, Houston quickly answered no when asked if he was getting burned out after dedicating so much time to his organization. But he is inspired by comedians/actors Jerry Lewis and
The sea was too rough to get out into deep water to target halibut, but the salmon were biting. Houston said everyone was able to bring home about 34 pounds of fillets each. (PURPLE HEART ANGLERS)
This was another memorable adventure for those who served their country. It’s also gratifying to Houston and the others who help make these trips possible. “To see the vets up there enjoying the country that they served and protected, and being able to give them an opportunity to do that, (it’s special) to see the looks on their faces,” Houston said. (PURPLE HEART ANGLERS) 54
ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
JANUARY 2022 | aksportingjournal.com
Danny Thomas, who famously used their celebrity as philanthropists and whose legacy of giving and raising money has continued even as they’re no longer with us. In other words, as long as Houston’s physically able, there are funds available to make the Alaska trips and he has the privilege of offering opportunities to help heal those who fought for his freedom through the great outdoors, Houston will head back north again and again. “Do I want to do this until I can’t do this anymore? Yeah. My goal, I guess if you want to call it a goal, is to have this live on past me. I just want it to keep going,” he said. “It’s not about me, but it’s about the ability to get a disabled veteran out fishing for a day. That’s something I want to continue.” ASJ Editor’s note: For more on Purple Heart Anglers and how to contribute, go to purpleheartanglers.org.
