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Volume 10 • Issue 6 www.aksportingjournal.com PUBLISHER James R. Baker GENERAL MANAGER John Rusnak EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott EDITOR Chris Cocoles WRITERS Paul D. Atkins, Kevin Delaney, Lawrence Hatter, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Jeff Lund, Mike Lunde, Mary Catharine Martin SALES MANAGER Katie Higgins ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mamie Griffin, Mike Smith, Paul Yarnold DESIGNERS Kayla Mehring, Jake Weipert WEB DEVELOPMENT/INBOUND MARKETING Jon Hines PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Katie Aumann INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER Lois Sanborn ADVERTISING INQUIRIES media@media-inc.com ON THE COVER This month is prime for rattling and calling in majestic Sitka blacktail bucks in various spots in Alaska, including the Southeast Panhandle and on Kodiak and Afognak Islands. Wade Ramsey bagged this one on Kodiak a few seasons back. (BUZZ RAMSEY) MEDIA INDEX PUBLISHING GROUP WASHINGTON OFFICE 14240 Interurban Ave South • Suite 190 Tukwila, WA 98168 (206) 382-9220 • Fax (206) 382-9437 media@media-inc.com www.media-inc.com CORRESPONDENCE Twitter @AKSportJourn Facebook.com/alaskasportingjournal Email ccocoles@media-inc.com 8

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CONTENTS

VOLUME 10 • ISSUE 6

29 (KATRINA MUELLER/USFWS)

STATE OF SALMON

It seems like every living creature in Alaska relies on salmon, including predators like bears that are just as excited about the fish returning to rivers as anglers are. In the debut of her new column, The Salmon State, Mary Catharine Martin dives into how the local fauna takes advantage of the many runs’ spawn timing, what Martin describes as “surfing the salmon wave.”

FEATURES 21

NEW DEER REGULATIONS FRUSTRATE HUNTER Jeff Lund would much rather hunt for his weekend grill fodder than shop for it at the supermarket. But this Ketchikan-area resident has been a bit frustrated by various regulation changes in the game management units he regularly hunts. Find out how this sportsman adapts and adjusts as he looks to fill his freezer for the winter.

‘JUST THE WAY IT GOES SOMETIMES’ Paul Atkins spends a lot of time afield in Northwest Alaska in pursuit of caribou, moose and more, and, truth be told, his hunts don’t always produce meat. But even incorrect split-second decisions can produce results, including an amazing display of bruin behavior that he and his hunting partner had the good luck to witness.

THE HUNTERS HUNTED: BROOKS BEAR TERROR When Idaho hunting guide Larry Hatter was joined by family and friends for a North Slope caribou adventure, they had no idea what curveballs would be fired their way. Hatter and company weren’t alone in the quest for a bull, and their trip soon became one of the most harrowing experiences imaginable.

119 BLACKTAIL RATTLING AND CALLING 101 Sitka blacktails are one of the Last Frontier’s most prized big game targets for hunters. Field to Fire columnist Scott Haugen loves to chase these bucks using both rattling and calling tactics. As he details how it’s done, Tiffany Haugen, no stranger to deer hunting herself, breaks out the skewers for delicious venison backstrap kebobs.

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 41 65

Opinion: Fisheries Board fails to protect wild Gulf salmon Late-season coho fishing in Interior

DEPARTMENTS 17

The Editor’s Note: New Animal Planet Show follows Alaska national wildlife refuge workers 49 Protecting Wild Alaska: Unwanted – invasive bass caught in Anchorage-area lake 53 Outdoor calendar 58 Holiday Gift Guide 109 Gear Guy: Innovative must-haves for hunting the tundra

Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Inc. Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Inc. Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $39.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Inc. Publishing Group, 14240 Interurban Ave South, Suite 190, Tukwila, WA 98168 or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues may be ordered at Media Inc. Publishing Group, subject to availability, at the cost of $5 plus shipping. Copyright © 2018 Media Inc. Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A.

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EDITOR’S NOTE Bears like this one in Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge are a big part of the job of U.S. Fish and Wildlife biologists profiled in Animal Planet’s new series, Into Alaska. (LISA HUPP/USFWS)

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laska and reality TV have become quite the compatible couple. Swipe left and there’s Alaska: The Last Frontier; swipe right and it’s Life Below Zero. Looking for that perfect match? Get acquainted with The Last Alaskans or Tanana’s hardcore Yukon Men. Here at Alaska Sporting Journal, we’ve also gotten to know these and other “real Alaskans” in the numerous features and profiles that have run in this magazine over the last few years. By and large I’ve enjoyed getting to know the Otto Kilchers, Sue Aikens’s, Heimo Korths, Stan Zurays and the other subsistence hunters and anglers who are chronicled in these adventure series. So when our friends at the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service told me about a new Animal Planet series, Into Alaska, which follows federal employees at Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge and Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, I made sure to tune in. As someone who during my time with this magazine has only deepened their admiration of the Alaskan way of life, I enjoyed watching these folks make a living. “I wake up sometimes and I’m like, ‘Wow. I got the dream job,’” says Dom Watts, a USFWS wildlife biologist in Kenai NWR who is learning to fly so he’ll be able to take solo flights over the vast wilderness on the refuge to help survey its game and fish populations. We also met wildlife officer Chris Johnson, who had his hands full attempting to capture a clearly ailing bald eagle that could barely get off the ground and take flight and was understandably spooked when stalked by the human being with a net. But it’s the kind of challenge wildlife officers and biologists regularly face in these wild corners of Alaska. And then there’s Kodiak NWR bear biologist William Leacock, who has us tag along as he fulfills his lifelong passion for Alaska’s dangerous but majestic bruins, the Kodiak brown bears that make this tough-as-nails island home. “Boy, if I can just crawl inside the head of a bear for five minutes, I’d learn so much,” Leacock says in episode one. And that’s what keeps bringing us back to Alaska, right? There’s something about the rugged, treacherous, beautiful, badass backcountry. Is some of what these TV shows depict as “real-life” situations a bit overdramatized? I’ll let you watch for yourself and make a determination of what’s real about Alaska reality TV. But as I watched the first episode of Into Alaska – 10 episodes are expected to air this fall and winter, with new shows on Monday nights – I could appreciate that Watts, Johnson, Leacock and their colleagues really do this for a living, and their workspaces represent some of our country’s most hallowed ground. It’s public land full of big game, birds and fish that are all worth fighting for, protecting and preserving for all of us. That’s enough of a hook to keep me tuned in. –Chris Cocoles

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A HUNTING CONUNDRUM

Author Jeff Lund gets to hunt some of the state’s most spectacular settings in Southeast Alaska. But reductions in the bag limit for some deer hunters and other regulations have frustrated Lund and fellow sportsmen. (JEFF LUND)

SOUTHEAST ALASKA RESTRICTIONS TEST PATIENCE BY JEFF LUND pportunities are sneaky and they disguise themselves very well. I grew up in Game Management Unit 2; now I live in Unit 1. That sounds like some regional setting in a dystopian setting, but it makes sense for Southeast Alaskans. Unit 2 is Prince of Wales Island, one of the most sought-after blacktail and black bear locations in the state. It features big animals and robust populations. The southern reach of Unit 1 is Ketchikan – Unit 1A, where I now call home. Being a nonrural resident of Unit 1A, I can no longer take the short boat ride to Prince of Wales and harvest four deer on federal land using my childhood home as base camp.

I never did harvest all four from the woods and mountains around my hometown of Klawock, but I would get a few for sure. Now it’s been reduced to two bucks for nonfederally qualified subsistence hunters on federal land. State land is still open, but my favorite spots were in Tongass National Forest.

QUEST FOR MEAT So now to the opportunity part. I have tried to buy as little meat from the store as possible, and between fish and venison I bring home from the field, I only have to purchase beef or chicken once a week. However, this year I have to figure out a way to get my deer from areas other than those with which I am familiar. I

have an excuse to see more of where I actually live and do the work to find deer. The rumors are that Unit 1A has comparatively few deer due to predators, overhunting, whatever. But a lot of it comes down to access. The road network in Unit 2 is extensive; in Unit 1A it’s not even close, which makes hunting more arduous and, of course, puts more people on the ferry heading to Unit 2. While this is unfortunate, I am faced with the opportunity to go further. Figure it out. Be a good predator. I have the means and the health, so I should.

HOPING FOR THE BEST Arguing on Facebook certainly won’t

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Prince of Wales Island, where Lund grew up, has always been home to excellent blacktail and black bear hunting. But new restrictions for deer means it isn’t the go-to place like it used to be. (JEFF LUND)

change anything. At best, it can galvanize a cause to then create a voice that is directed to the people who need to hear it. Hopefully something will come of the meetings on Unit 2 about wolf harvesting that happened in late April. Wolves have become a new spotted owl of sorts and money pours in from the Lower 48 to protect them, especially in Unit 2. Federal regulations that prohibit wolf hunting outside of areas where the species has been delisted have allowed their population to grow past a workable balance in several Lower 48 states. Many residents on Unit 2 believe it is the wolves more so 22

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

than hunting pressure that have hurt deer populations. However, the decision to limit hunting by nonrural residents shows that that message either wasn’t received or not heard. So this weekend I am heading out to what might be my new favorite hunting spot, a total bust or something in between. While I was grouse hunting in mid-April, I found a large concentration of deer sign on the side of a steep but densely forested hill. The crest of the hill is a ridge that I can follow from forest to muskeg and eventually alpine. It’s on the opposite side of where a road provides easy alpine hunting access.

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I’m going to camp there well before the season to test the alpine access, look for deer and maybe even find something bearing those beautiful hard antlers.

GOING FOR IT Yeah, I’m excited. Not for the restrictions on my favorite hunting unit, or the apparent whiff on addressing the wolf population, or that Ketchikan families will have to look elsewhere for some of their meat. But because I have the opportunity to become a better hunter and hunters who have been quiet about issues pertaining to access and habitat, might engage. There are conversations that must be had, and they must include the proper channels. Alaska is a massive state and hunters must volunteer to be part of the discussion or risk dealing with the aftermath on social media. ASJ Editor’s note: Jeff Lund is a freelance writer from Ketchikan. His podcast The Mediocre Alaskan chronicles his struggle to be a better Alaskan. It is available on iTunes and Soundcloud. His book, Going Home, a memoir about hunting and fishing in Alaska, is available from Amazon.

“Yeah, I’m excited,” Lund writes of new areas around his Ketchikan home he’ll have to get used to hunting. “I have the opportunity to become a better hunter.” (JEFF LUND) 24

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Hunter Jesse Knock examines antlers during a scouting trip in Unit 2. Many residents there believe wolves have affected deer populations more than hunting pressure. (JEFF LUND)

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A bear catches salmon out of Admiralty Island’s Middle Creek. Research from Bristol Bay and other Alaskan fish strongholds shows that bears and other predators “surf the salmon wave,” moving from stream to stream depending on run timing. A diversity of spawning times depends in large part on a diversity of habitat. (MARY CATHARINE MARTIN/SALMONSTATE)

SURFING THE ‘SALMON WAVE’ TO BULK FOR WINTER, ALASKA BRUINS SEEK SUCCESSIVE FISH RUNS, HIGHLIGHTING VALUE OF HABITAT COMPLEXITY BY MARY CATHARINE MARTIN

y mid-August Bristol Bay’s river systems are choked with fish, but in early July, when most of the bay’s sockeye salmon are fighting their way in from the sea, it is another story. What’s a bear – or a grayling, trout or gull – to do? The short answer: start surfing. The diversity within Bristol Bay’s landscapes and rivers means two

At times, when bears eat salmon, they strip the skin from the spine to eat the fish. That’s what happened to this sockeye salmon in the Bristol Bay watershed. (MARY CATHARINE MARTIN/SALMONSTATE)

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Sockeye salmon swim at the mouth of C Creek, off Little Togiak Lake in the Bristol Bay watershed. (MARY CATHARINE MARTIN/SALMONSTATE)

salmon that arrive at the mouth of the same river system at roughly the same time might spawn weeks apart, depending on their ultimate destination. It’s a phenomenon researchers call the “salmon wave” – and the predators that follow the salmon are its surfers. Colder streams’ salmon spawn first. Often, those streams are smaller and hold relatively few fish, but because of when those fish are available, they are “disproportionately important” to the ecosystem as a whole, according to Daniel Schindler, a University of Washington professor of aquatic and fisheries sciences. He has been studying salmon in Bristol Bay’s Wood River watershed for two de30

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cades through the university’s Alaska Salmon Program. “A single salmon to a predator in the middle of July is way more important than a single salmon to that predator in the middle of August,” said Schindler. “It can be easy to overlook the importance of tiny streams when developing, (but) it’s the network of sites that’s important for ecological function.” After the colder streams, salmon whose natal streams are warmer spawn from mid-August to September. Last of all, in the Wood River system salmon spawn on lake beaches starting in September. All of those spots have genetically distinct salmon populations. And throughout it all, bears and other predators “surf the salmon wave,”

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

moving from creek to creek to get salmon protein for the longest span of time possible – and bettering their chances of surviving to the next year.

HIGH-GRADING In times and places that bears can find lots of salmon – August in Bristol Bay – they tend to high-grade for the most nutritious parts, frequently eating just the brains of the males (which are big and fatty) and the eggs from the females. “Out here, in a typical small stream, (predators) aren’t limited by how much salmon is available – they’re limited by their ability to process it,” Schindler said. In spring, in contrast, a person walking along a riverbank might see bear scat full of the backbones of salmon. “A single salmon to a predator in the middle of July is way more important than a single salmon to that predator in the middle of August,” said University of Washington Professor Daniel Schindler. This dead Bristol Bay sockeye dried in an interesting shape. (MARY CATHARINE MARTIN/SALMONSTATE)

Bears have found and eaten the old, dried-up carcasses, so the salmon wave can last through the spring, even if the fish don’t. Schindler said that in some places in Alaska fish spawn from mid-May all the way to February, though of course in far-reduced numbers outside the main spawning months. Bears and other predators surf those waves too.

WEATHER WORRIES Climate, and the way it’s changing, also matters. Steep streams tend to be cooler because they’re getting snowmelt. Snow cools them for less time following dry winters than snowy winters, which means more streams across the river basin are similar temperatures. This has the potential to shorten the duration of the salmon wave. Mountainous, glacier-filled landscapes like Southeast Alaska can offer even more complexity of habitat than a place like Bristol Bay, which has an effect on those that prey on salmon. The hypothesis of a paper Schindler and former Ph.D. student Jonny Arm-

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“Bears and other predators surf the salmon wave, moving from creek to creek to get salmon protein for the longest span of time possible – and bettering their chances of surviving to the next year,” author Mary Catharine Martin writes. (MARY CATHARINE MARTIN/SALMONSTATE)

strong – now an assistant professor at Oregon State University’s Department of Fisheries and Wildlife – are talking about is that places with the most “geomorphic and hydromorphic complexity” (the most diversity of land and water) have the biggest bears. This summer was a stellar one for Bristol Bay, with a record return of more than 62 million sockeye salmon to the entire region by Aug. 2 and more than 7.5 million making it up the Wood River system alone. But in addition to sheer abundance, what’s equally important to a system’s overall reliability for salmon eaters, humans included, “is the diversity of salmon that come back to watersheds,” Schindler said. “And that diversity is produced by habitat diversity.” ASJ Editor’s note: Mary Catharine Martin is the communications director of SalmonState, a nonprofit initiative that works to ensure Alaska remains a place wild salmon thrive. Go to salmonstate.org for more information.

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PROTECTING

The Kenai River Sportfishing Association is concerned about pink salmon hatchery numbers in Prince William Sound relative to the potential threat they might have on wild salmon stocks.

WILD ALASKA

(KENAI RIVER SPORTFISHING ASSOCIATION)

OPINION:

B.O.F. FAILS TO PROTECT WILD SALMON STOCKS BY KEVIN DELANEY

hen the Alaska Board of Fisheries met in Anchorage this October, it failed to act to place the protection of wild stocks of salmon above expansion of hatchery production of pink salmon in the Gulf of Alaska. The issue before the BOF was whether the expansion of hatchery production of pink salmon by the private, nonprofit hatcheries in Prince William Sound is in the best interest of the wild stocks of salmon or if the sheer magnitude of the hatchery releases and the documented straying poses a clear and present threat to other stocks and species. While these issues rarely come before the BOF, it has the authority to amend by regulation the number and source of salmon eggs taken for hatchery production.

State of Alaska law (Policy for management of sustainable salmon fisheries – 5 AAC 39.222) mandates that hatcheries shall operate without adversely affecting natural stocks of fish. The policy states that the effects and interactions of introduced or enhanced salmon stocks on wild salmon stocks should be assessed, and that wild salmon stocks and fisheries on those stocks should be protected from adverse impacts from artificial propagation and enhancement efforts. The request before the BOF at its October work session was to halt the currently permitted expansion of hatchery production of pink salmon. Nearly 800 million eggs are currently taken for incubation. The expansion at issue called for an additional 20 million eggs.

Halting this incremental expansion would have had little effect on overall hatchery production of pink salmon or the economic value to the commercial fishery. But by halting the expansion, the BOF would have taken an important step forward, placing all parties on notice that the issue at play here is very important and needs to be addressed.

HATCHERY PINKS IN ABUNDANCE Pink salmon that showed up in streams across Lower Cook Inlet in 2017 weren’t all local stocks — in some streams, up to 70 percent were releases from PWS hatcheries. These PWS hatchery pink salmon were present in every Lower Cook Inlet stream sampled. Overall, PWS hatchery pinks composed 15 percent of the pink

aksportingjournal.com | NOVEMBER 2018

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

“Credible scientific speculation ties this year’s failure of runs of sockeye and Chinook in places like the Copper River, Chignik and the Kenai to competition issues with the massive numbers of hatchery pink salmon in the marine environment,” writes former Alaska Department of Fish and Game sportfish director Kevin Delaney. (KENAI RIVER SPORTFISHING ASSOCIATION)

salmon escapement in LCI in 2017. In addition to the straying issues, recent scientific publications (building on past published reports and internal Alaska Department of Fish and Game reviews) have provided cause for great concern over the biological impacts associated with continued release of very large numbers of hatchery salmon. Credible scientific speculation ties this year’s failure of runs of sockeye and Chinook in places like the Copper River, Chignik and the Kenai to competition issues with the

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

massive numbers of hatchery pink salmon in the marine environment. Protection of wild stocks is job one for Alaska. The PWS hatcheries are vitally important to the commercial fishery in that region, but it is time to halt expansion of those hatcheries and take time to let the best available fishery science guide us forward. It is time for the burden of proof to shift from the state needing to prove that harm to wild stocks is occurring to those who propose significant changes to the

NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

ecosystem to show no harm. The Alaska Board of Fisheries should have taken the first step to placing us on this path forward. It is disappointing to many that the Board failed to take responsible action on this important issue. ASJ Editor’s note: Kevin Delaney is the former director of the Sport Fish Division of the Alaska Department of Fish and Game and is currently a fisheries consultant with Kenai River Sportfishing Association.

aksportingjournal.com | NOVEMBER 2018

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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APRIL 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

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www.forestry.alaska.gov aksportingjournal.com | OCTOBER 2018

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

BEST OF KENAI PENINSULA

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Located near the town of Sterling, Alaska and one mile away from the Kenai River, the most popular sport fishing in Alaska for King and Coho salmon. Welcome to your “home away from home” destination in one of the most beautiful locations in the world. Our lodge includes four bedrooms, each with its own ensuite bathroom and ample common areas.

KING SALMON, COHO, TROUT FISHING TRIPS for groups of 2, 3, 4 or more

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A daily continental breakfast is served to guests. Onsite guest laundry machines available. The Kenai Recreation Center is a 10 minute walk away. And the Kenai Visitors & Cultural Center is a 5 minute drive away.

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

PROTECTING

WILD ALASKA

UNWANTED: INVASIVE BASS CAUGHT AT ANCHORAGE LAKE

BY CHRIS COCOLES

hether it’s in the lily pad-filled ponds of the Deep South or Southern California’s surburban lakes, trophy largemouth bass fishing is a big deal in the Lower 48. Bass aren’t supposed to be a thing in salmon-, halibut- and trout-crazed Alaska, but somehow a largemouth was pulled from an Anchorage lake earlier this fall, creating an invasive species controversy and fears that more bass may have been illegally released in Last Frontier waters. In early September, a small bass – in October, Alaska Department of Fish and Wildlife biologists confirmed the fish was a largemouth – was caught at Sand Lake, a small body of water (78 surface acres) south of Ted Stevens International Airport. Invasive species are nothing new at Sand, which has been known to house non-native northern pike in a lake that has populations of rainbow trout, Arctic char and grayling. Pike are now commonplace in many South-central Alaska lakes and ponds, but a bass was sure to create some headlines. Fish and Game recently issued a press release to clarify what’s being done. “Immediately following the discovery of the illegal introduction of a bass into Sand Lake, ADFG staff began surveying the lake,” said Kristine Dunker, a fisheries research biologist. “We were concerned that there might be more bass, and potentially, a reproducing population of bass in the lake.” ADFG officials deployed nets, traps and even used rods and reels in an attempt to pull out more bass, but no additional fish were found. Of course, that doesn’t mean Sand Lake is free of these fish. And that begs the other question: Are bass lurking in other fisheries around the Anchorage urban area or throughout the state? “Largemouth bass are an aggressive predator and will eat a variety of prey,” ADFG wrote in its press release. “As adult fish, they are often the top predators in the lakes they inhabit. Because of this, bass have the capacity to change entire food webs and potentially wipe out entire species within lakes they

Alaska Department of Fish and Game officials created a “Wanted” poster after a juvenile non-native largemouth bass was caught in Anchorage’s Sand Lake. Bass in Alaskan waters are potentially devastating predators to native fish species. (ADFG)

are illegally introduced.” Alaska officials went so far as to administer a “Wanted” poster in the spirit of John Dillinger, “Pretty Boy” Floyd and “Baby Face” Nelson in an attempt to track down the fishy version of Public Enemy No. 1. ASJ aksportingjournal.com | NOVEMBER 2018

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

AUTUMN SALES EVENT JUST IN TIME FOR THE FALL BOAT SHOW SEASON

Your Suzuki Marine Dealer has exceptional deals in store for you when you purchase a new Suzuki outboard from 25 to 350 horsepower this fall. Get Suzuki’s 3-Year Limited Warranty plus 3 years of Extended Protection at no extra charge. There are Instant Savings on select models, and Low-Rate Financing is also available.

SIX YEARS OF PROTECTION 3 Years Limited Warranty + 3 Years Extended Protection

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Gimme Six Extended Protection promo is applicable to new Suzuki Outboard Motors from 25 to 350 HP in inventory which are sold and delivered to buyer between 10/01/18 and 12/31/18 in accordance with the promotion by a Participating Authorized Suzuki Marine dealer in the continental US and Alaska to a purchasing customer who resides in the continental US or Alaska. Customer should expect to receive an acknowledgement letter and full copy of contract including terms, conditions and wallet card from Suzuki Extended Protection within 90 days of purchase. If an acknowledgement letter is not received in time period stated, contact Suzuki Motor of America, Inc. – Marine Marketing via email: marinepromo@suz.com. The Gimme Six Promotion is available for pleasure use only, and is not redeemable for cash. Instant Savings apply to qualifying purchases of select Suzuki Outboard Motors made between 10/01/18 and 12/31/18. For list of designated models, see participating Dealer or visit www.suzukimarine.com. Instant Savings must be applied against the agreed-upon selling price of the outboard motor and reflected in the bill of sale. (Suzuki will, in turn, credit Dealer’s parts account.) There are no model substitutions, benefit substitutions, rain checks, or extensions. Suzuki reserves the right to change or cancel these promotions at any time without notice or obligation. * Financing offers available through Synchrony Retail Finance. As low as 5.99% APR financing for 60 months on new and unregistered Suzuki Outboard Motors. Subject to credit approval. Not all buyers will qualify. Approval, and any rates and terms provided, are based on credit worthiness. $19.99/month per $1,000 financed for 60 months is based on 5.99% APR. Hypothetical figures used in calculation; your actual monthly payment may differ based on financing terms, credit tier qualification, accessories or other factors such as down payment and fees. Offer effective on new, unregistered Suzuki Outboard Motors purchased from a participating authorized Suzuki dealer between 10/01/18 and 12/31/18. “Gimme Six”, the Suzuki “S” and model names are Suzuki trademarks or ®. Don’t drink and drive. Always wear a USCG-approved life jacket and read your owner’s manual. © 2018 Suzuki Motor of America, Inc.

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NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com 8/14/18 4:56 PM

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NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

OUTDOOR CALENDAR

Several moose seasons open this month throughout the state. (KATHERINE BELCHER/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE)

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1 1 1

Application period for 2019 draw hunts begins Deer season opens in Game Management Unit 5 (Yakutat) Late resident caribou and bear seasons open in GMU 9 (Alaska Peninsula) 1 Resident antlerless moose season opens in GMU 14C (Anchorage Management Area) 1 Resident caribou season opens in GMU 19D (McGrath) 1 Late muzzleloader moose season opens in GMU 20A (Fairbanks-Central Tanana) 1-14 Late goat season in GMU 7 (Seward) 1-14 Deer season in GMU 8 (Kodiak-Shelikof) 1-14 Late goat season in GMU 15 (Kenai) 10 Resident moose season opens in GMU 20B (Salcha River drainage upstream from and including Goose Creek) 15 Late-season elk season opens in GMU 3 (Petersburg/ Wrangell) 15 Moose season opens in GMU 5B (South of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, north and east of Russell and Nunatak Fiords, and east of the east side of East Nunatak Glacier to the U.S./Canada border) 21-27 Bow-and-arrow-only moose season in GMU 20B (Fairbanks Management Area) Note: For more specific information on hunting regulations, consult the Alaska Department of Fish and Game Hunting Regulations handbook (adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=wildliferegulations.hunting)

• Authentic wilderness experience at aﬀordable full service lodge on remote island in the heart of SE Alaska’s world class salmon fishing grounds • 3 days fully guided plus 1 day self or semi guided with USCG licensed and ADFG certified guides for salmon, halibut, rockfish, and trout. • Includes all meals and non-alcoholic beverages, comfortable beds, full bathroom w/ hot shower, sauna, kayaks, etc.

aksportingjournal.com | NOVEMBER 2018

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

“BEST KEPT SECRET ON THE WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND”

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aksportingjournal.com | MAY 2017

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

Fall in Interior Alaska conjures up images of cold, blustery weather and hunting big game. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a last chance for salmon anglers to target coho, which make a remarkable 1,000-mile journey from the Bering Sea. (MIKE LUNDE)

CATCH THE LATE SHOW LATE-SEASON STRATEGIES FOR INTERIOR ALASKA COHO BY MIKE LUNDE

utumn fishing in Interior Alaska is extreme compared to watersheds in the Lower 48. Shorter windows of daylight coupled with below-freezing temperatures change green leaves to hues of yellow and brown in the blink of an eye. Rafts lose air pressure overnight while splotches of frost and the first accumulation of snow blankets their air-soft floor. Ice freezes inside the oarlocks and truck windows are encased with frost. Following the two-hour drive southbound drive from Fairbanks to the Delta Clearwater River, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to be decked out in winter clothing to stay warm while wading and fishing in the 36-degree water. This is when your

3.5mm Neoprene waders act like a self-operated sauna. At the icy boat launch, the raft is pumped back up and rowed upstream to a run as long as two football fields. In the water, schools of crimson red-colored submarines sit stationary in middle of the channel. A retired chemistry professor engages his spinning reel and establishes a cast just upstream of the first school. A quick glance while you row reveals two silvers slightly ahead of the school. As the flashy purple hoochie jig darts erratically towards the salmon, an agitated male coho vacates the school, accelerates to attack speed like a bullet fired from a. 44 Magnum and strikes

the lure. Airborne activity commences for several minutes until the silver is landed in knee-deep water. Dr. Keller is rewarded with his first Interior silver of the season. He gets the customary high-fives and poses for photos.

EPIC UPSTREAM JOURNEY Unlike some members of the coho clan which spawn mere miles from the saltwater, Delta Clearwater silvers endure a 1,000-plus-mile journey upstream through the treacherous currents of glacial riverine interstates like the Yukon and Tanana Rivers. Despite bearing red, purple, and charcoal gray colorations on their flanks, these headwater warriors will still stop

aksportingjournal.com | NOVEMBER 2018

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

at nothing to attack when a bait hits the water, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the acoustic vibration from a dangling spinner or the upand-down motion of a flashy hoochie. Here are some effective fly fishing and conventional fishing techniques for silvers in Interior Alaska.

SWINGING STREAMERS As far as fly fishing goes, swinging streamers broadside to the main current is such a versatile strategy because the technique essentially covers all portions of the water column. Common streamer choices for Interior Alaska silvers include purple and black egg-sucking leeches, articulated leeches, tube flies, Intruders, and other large, gaudy offerings tied up in combinations of rabbit strips and marabou. Flashabou is still an important material to consider if tying your own patterns. And since silvers like to routinely patrol deeper depths, it is important for these flies to be weighted in some aspect. Use dumbbell eyes or coneheads to serve as the main weight source. The rigging system of the presenta-

tion is straightforward. The main flyline should be connected via loop-to-loop connection to your sink tip of choice. The sink tip is connected to the butt section of the monofilament leader with a surgeonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s or perfection loop. As the fly is cast upstream, engage the pullback mend to allow the fly to physically be replaced upstream so it can sink faster against the speed of the current. After the initial mend, let the fly swing broadside through the current while it achieves maximum depth. Strikes typically occur during the middle towards the terminal phases of the presentation. Remember to keep a tight line during the presentation, as no slack should be there or else you might miss the strike. Experiment by throwing in a slight twitch. A 9- to 10-foot single-handed 8-weight rod is the preferred choice of most Interior silver veterans, and switch rods have gained popularity over the past decade for use in habitats that contain little to no back-casting room. Carry an arsenal of sink-tips that can range from Intermediate (1.5 inches per second) to T-14 (8-plus ips) to match

water conditions and depth.

STRIPPING STREAMERS Like most salmon, it is highly characteristic of silvers to vacate the main river channel and seek out calm water in backwater sloughs for conservation of energy. These shallower areas typically contain vast amounts of emergent vegetation and large woody debris that silvers will hide under to avoid predation, and in some scenarios, heavy fishing pressure. Since there is very little to no current in sloughs, it makes obvious sense to use an alternative fly fishing technique as flow is otherwise required to stimulate the effectiveness of swinging. A fly stripped in similar fashion to reeling in a lure will get the attention of silvers swimming around in sloughs. Scan the area for schools of fish and approach them with a stealthy mindset. Once you locate fish, engage a cast about 10 to 20 feet ahead of the school and let the streamer sink momentarily. Experiment with retrieve speeds and length of strips. During the stripping retrieve, throw

After making their long run up the Yukon and Tanana Rivers, coho arrive in the peaceful Delta Clearwater and its tributaries to spawn in late fall. (MIKE LUNDE) 66

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NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

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A typical fall spawning silver in its blazing fire engine-red blazing colors. (MIKE LUNDE)

in occasional jerks or strips of the fly, as this erratic action drives silvers bonkers. Effective streamer color combinations for stripping include purple, black, black/blue, pink, and chartreuse.

RIPPING JIGS Jigs represent one of the most deadly late-season techniques for Interior Alaska silvers. The lures are similar to those utilized in stillwater environments such

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

as lakes, beaver ponds or sloughs. Jigs that are twitched or jerked in proximity to the bottom or suspended in middle of the water column will absolutely drive migrating silvers nuts. An additional advantage with jigs over other conventional and fly fishing techniques is that depth is often the limiting factor that causes flies and higher riding lures to lose their effectiveness. This is due to one primary

NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

reason: These more shallow presentations cannot penetrate down into the zone when migratory silvers hole up. Specifically, silvers congregate deeper in the water column in midafternoon, and on bright sunny days itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s particularly common that their aggressive behavior lessens. In these scenarios, position yourself at the head or middle section of the pool and pinpoint casts 25 to 40 degrees upstream

of the schools. As the jig free-falls towards bottom, start a moderate-slow to moderate retrieve speed with the rod tip held at an upward angle. Make four to seven cranks of the reel accompanied by a series of upward snaps or twitches to start the retrieve. Repeat the technique for several casts in the same area and slowly work your way downstream. Strikes commonly occur during the free-fall portion of the presentation. Since silvers are notorious for striking with a vengeance, so feeling even relatively light bites is not a problem. Marabou and rabbit strip jigs are the two most popular choices. Tying custom jigs on a fly vise is another option for exploring creative alternatives. Materials to experiment with include rabbit zonker strips, marabou, flash, Sili Legs, as well as soft plastic twister tails or lizards for bonus enhancement and profile.

PLUGS Coho aren’t the only species that might bite in late fall. (MIKE LUNDE)

There’s a love-hate relationship between salmon and plugs. The lures’ er-

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Alaskans make the most of every opportunity to get outside, and with salmon in Interior rivers, why not head to the river for some last-chance coho? (MIKE LUNDE)

ratic back-and-forth action seems to be the magic ticket in any water condition for frustrating fish enough to unleash that aggressive strike we dream of as

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

anglers. Plugs come in a variety of shapes, sizes and color combos. The two most popular styles of plugs to use in the

NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

Interior Alaska are the banana-shaped category â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Kwikfish, Hawg Nose FlatFish and Mag Lip â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and bass-style crankbaits such as Rapala Risto Wraps,

Storm Magnum Wiggle Warts and Strike King Pro Models. Spinning or baitcasting rods in the 8- to 9-foot category with a moderate-fast- to fast-action tip work well with plugs. Reels should be spooled up with 20- to 30-pound braided line. A physical characteristic associated with braid is that it exhibits near-zero stretch and often can negatively affect the full potential swimming action of plugs. Therefore, incorporating a 3- to 5-foot fluorocarbon or monofilament leader onto the end of the braided line via back-to-back uni-knot connection will result in an almost equal offset in the amount of shock absorption on each side of knot. The cumulative difference in shock absorption allows for increased additional movement of plugs and more effective hooksets. Effective plug color combinations include blue/chartreuse, the silver bullet, black/purple, pink/chartreuse, and orange/pink. Experimenting with other colors not listed here is also worthwhile. Typically, brighter combos get the silvers attention, yet pay close attention to water clarity and weather conditions, as they will dictate color selection too.

SPINNERS In the world of freshwater salmon and steelhead angling, spinners are a timeless classic. Scan any veteran Alaska fisherman’s gear and you’re bound to see a tackle box filled with old school Blue Fox Vibrax and Mepps spinners. Many will have splotches of rust on the blades, others semi-bent shafts, a characteristic of the head-shaking behavior of hooked coho. Out of all the lure categories discussed thus far, inline spinners are perhaps one of the simplest to employ since no expert angling skillset is necessarily required for success. Anglers typically cast upstream 30 degrees, wait for the spinner to strike the water’s surface, and then engage the reel for a moderate-slow retrieve speed so that the spinner is retrieved as it swings downstream. As the spinner is retrieved broadside aksportingjournal.com | NOVEMBER 2018

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

on the presentation, it arcs through the depths like a streamer swung on a sinktip line. Some popular spinners are Nos. 4 to 6 Blue Fox Vibrax, Mepps Agilia and Kodiak Customs. Jason Rivers and other diehard pike fanatics have experimented with and reported excellent success fishing small muskie-sized bucktails in the 5- to 8-inch range with large oversized Nos. 7 to 9 Colorado blades. Conversations with the local experts revealed that strikes on the first or second cast were exceptionally common with muskie bucktails. They theorize that larger offerings may really agitate the living heck out of migrating silvers when smaller offerings typically get ignored. An 8- to 9½-foot medium-light to medium spinning rod is the best rod/ reel combination for throwing spinners to silvers. Opt for longer versions if fishing larger Interior Alaska river systems or if wade fishing in proximity to the shoreline. Shorter rods are recommended for boat fishing.

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

Man and man’s best friend alike get in on the fly action to score a fall coho. (MIKE LUNDE)

BETTER LATE THAN NEVER With the long promise of Old Man Winter creeping in at every Interior Alaskans’ doors, don’t let the bitterly cold temperatures allow the last window of open-water fishing opportunities to fade away. With most Alaskans focused on last-minute preparations for winter or patrolling the wilderness for moose and

NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

caribou, a quiet Interior waterway filled with schools of blushed silvers is a picturesque scene we all envision. Bundle up, tie on a spinner or a heavily weighted articulated tidbit, cast into the underwater abyss, hang on tight, and wait patiently. There might be a crimson torpedo buck waiting to unleash its fury. ASJ

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JUST THE WAY IT GOES SOMETIMES WHEN A HUNTING PLAN GOES AWRY, JUST ENJOY THE SHOW BY PAUL D. ATKINS

“

ang it,” I whispered as Lew made his way around the corner where I was standing. The big bull moose – the only one we’d seen in like, forever – had disappeared into the willows and was gone. “How can a bull that big, with such a huge wingspan and massive body, vanish so easily?” I asked. “I don’t know,” Lew said in a frustrat-

ed tone. But he did vanish, leaving us with nothing but a trail of river water and some mighty big hoofprints in the soft gravel we were now standing on. Choosing to chase him was a decision we had to make in only seconds to decide, but it made sense. Moose meat is much better than bear, even though we had a good bear coming towards us

from the other direction. I guess it’s just the way it goes sometimes.

I’VE HAD TO MAKE a lot of those last-min-

ute, split-second decisions throughout my time here in the Arctic, moments I’ve wished I was somewhere else rather than where I was. I’ve lost count, actually, of all the times I went left when I should have gone right, but, oh well,

This wasn’t the moose that author Paul Atkins and his hunting partner Lew Pagel saw in the Arctic wilderness, but was very similar to the bull they did see exit a river and disappear into the willows in a flash as a grizzly approached from the other direction, requiring a split-second decision about what to do next. That’s just the way it goes sometimes on a Last Frontier adventure. (PAUL D. ATKINS) aksportingjournal.com | NOVEMBER 2018

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

hindsight is 20/20, as the old saying goes. It’s also hunting and I’m reminded of it quite often, especially when the anniversary of Sept. 11, 2001 rolls around. My first fly-out, do-it-yourself drop hunt ended the same way. A few days before that fateful day, we flew north to a place that is well known throughout this region, the infamous Kelly River. It lays about 90 miles north of Kotzebue and was once known as the premier spot for hunting moose, bears and caribou. It was on everyone’s hit list in those days, and if you wanted a chance at all three species, then the Kelly was

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

where you went. It was also the first time my wife Susie went with me. We had a great time, even though the rain poured for most of the trip and finding a piece of dry firewood was next to impossible. We hunted hard, glassing and searching every day for what would be hopefully my first moose. Like all hunts in Alaska we had choices to make, whether right or wrong. The biggest were, where should we go and in what direction? We decided to hunt north of camp and searched from a small hill that gave us the best advantage. It was futile and in the four days we were there we didn’t

NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

Like a deer camp down south, it is always a comfort to come back to place that you know and have had success. The last few years Atkins and Pagel have camped in this spot, a place with mementos of days gone by and what once was (above), and have had some grand adventures, whether they scored or not. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

see anything except for mosquitoes and an awful lot of blueberries. But as it seems to go in these scenarios, on the day we flew out, which was the evening of Sept. 10, 2001, we saw from the plane what we had missed. Immediately we knew we should have turned our attention south. Three big bulls with massive headgear were feeding in the low-lying willows not far from camp, within easy packing distance of the plane. Crazy, right? Just the way it goes, I guess. Chalk that one up on the learning curve.

MY HUNTING PARTNER LEW Pagel and I

have experienced this more times over the years, choosing to hunt this river drainage over that one, the far mountain instead of the closer one. Now, I’m not complaining; we’ve had good luck more times than not. But many of those decisions were based on weather more than anything else. Like today, for example. The wind is killing us – it’s blowing 30 mph and whitecapping Kotzebue Sound. Sure, we could risk it, and in my younger days I probably would have. But not today – too danger-

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

ous. Many will go anyway and get wet, as well as risk swamping their boat, or worse. So here we sit waiting, watching Weather Underground on our phones and hoping. It’s like being in purgatory. Just recently Lew and I were hunting bears in a prime spot that we’ve hit many times before. It’s legendary for big grizzlies and one of those places with muddy sand bars deepened by bear tracks and half-eaten dead fish laying everywhere. It’s a great spot if you want a grizzly; this is where you go. We eventually made it there in the boat and camped at our normal spot, one that we’ve used for years. Our plan was to grab a quick MRE and then boat upriver that evening to sit and wait. Unlike most hunters who come north and stay for a week or 10 days, we only had the weekend, so our plan was to get in and hunt hard. The weather was great – no wind or rain – making for one of those perfect evenings when bears like to make their way to the river for supper. The fish, flopping and going crazy in the current, were a blessing too: big multicolored chums slapping constantly – creating

NOVEMBER 2018 | aksportingjournal.com

the proverbial bear dinner bell – and trying to get to who knows where. We took the ride upriver, made landfall and anchored up. It was primetime for us too and we were ready. In no time we had a bear swimming the current towards us. He was further up than we were, but the current was pulling him towards a small island 300 yards away from where we sat watching. Lew asked me if I wanted to move the boat to the south end of that island. I looked and yes, there was a perfect sandbar that actually provided cover and would make for an easy shot from that distance. I hesitated, thought it over and finally said no. Looking back I should have said yes. I just didn’t think he would come directly at us. I figured he would go the other way into the wind, but I was wrong, and my decision proved to be one I would regret, especially after getting a closer look at the size of this grizzly. He was huge, but with my indecision it was too late to move. The sound of the motor would have ended our hunt and he would have left in a hurry.

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In the far reaches of the upper Noatak River, bears predominate, with not much else around, especially during early September as salmon make their way upriver. Giant tracks are a constant reminder of where you’re at and what you’re dealing with. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

We watched and waited as the big bear headed straight for the sandbar. “Damn,” I whispered. For a moment I contemplated wading to the spot, but I knew the current lay deep in a small part of the river and my hip boots weren’t up for cold water, and neither was I. All we could do was watch and hope.

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

He kept walking without a care or scent we were there, stopping here and there to dig at a dead fish. I had brought both my bow and rifle on this trip. From where we were he was 334 yards, too far for either. Finally, he walked along the sandbar, which would have been an easy 30-yard bow shot. But I wasn’t

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An incorrect decision not to move upriver to an island for a closer shot at very large grizzly eventually led to an amazing display of bruin behavior, a class the author called Bear 101. (LEW PAGEL)

there to make it. All we could do was watch as the bear turned north and walked out of sight. “It’s just the way it goes sometimes,” I told Lew.

WE FELT EMPTY AND decided to float

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

downriver back to camp, but like all things in the Arctic, when dusk approaches weird things can happen. After pulling anchor, we began to drift, using a wooden pole to keep us off the bank and out of the willows. Looking ahead I could see him – a big

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bear walking the edge of the bank looking for fish, stopping and posturing like he owned the place. No doubt he was big, but not as big as the one we had just left and the one I was still thinking about. Could it be that two bears were within a short distance of each other?

Bear highways line the banks of the Eli River. Atkins says that occcasionally you’ll find a spruce tree that has been rubbed down by grizzly fur, making you wonder just how many bears live in this country. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

In Alaska you can shoot from a boat or raft, as long as the motor is off. Our motor was off with me scrambling to find a good rest for a shot. I finally achieved a decent rest on the back of the swivel seat and peered at him through the scope. I needed him to stop, and not only would he not stop but he began to run towards something to his left. I raised my head to look and could instantly hear Lew say, “Sow with cubs.” Boars will eat small cubs, and these were small and so was the sow. The big male was trying to catch one of the cubs and the sow was attempting to warn him off in another direction. She did a good job as they played getaway in the willows. It was utter chaos! Bears were darting in and out of cover in every direction. I slipped the safety off the 7 Mag and waited for the big guy to stop, but he would not. It was then that Lew touched my shoulder and pointed downriver maybe 200 yards. Four more bears had made their way to the river – one on our left and three on the right. It was a “bears gone wild” episode and we sat there in awe of the show! For most this would be a sight to see, and believe me when I say it was. I didn’t know what to do, so I decided to just slip the safety back on and watch. And so we did. We watched until dark as bears growled, chased each other and fought like crazy. We Chum salmon are always fun to battle but sometimes tough for anglers to get to bite. With higher and a bit dirtier water than normal, Pagel and Atkins struggled during this year’s trip, but they did manage to bring in a few. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 88

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watched them pull fish from the water, devouring them as fast as they could, all the while eyeing each other from a distance. It was an incredible evening and not something we wouldn’t soon forgot. Many might think this way: “Well, you didn’t get a bear.” No, I didn’t, but that evening we got a lot more than that. This was an Arctic adventure like no other and a front-row seat in Bear 101 class. I guess it’s just the way it goes, but sometimes that way is good enough. ASJ Editor’s note: Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and author from Kotzebue, Alaska. He has written hundreds of articles on big game hunting, and fishing throughout North America and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic. Paul is a monthly contributor to Alaska Sporting Journal. Like most places in Alaska, early-season hunting revolves around early mornings and late evenings. Long days searching for moose or bears can be exhausting, but Atkins says it’s about as much fun as you can have legally. Once back in camp it’s a time to eat a good meal, have a drink, reflect on the mistakes of the day and plan to do better the next. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

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‘GRIZZLY! ’ SEEKING CARIBOU BULLS ON THE NORTH SLOPE, A HUNTING PARTY FACES OFF WITH AN AGGRESSIVE BEAR BY LAWRENCE E. HATTER

emories of the hunt have a way of fading like the colors of fall as Old Man Winter approaches, but some are indelible. I’m confident as I stand in the barren land north of the tree line; no sun shines as brightly as one setting somewhere beyond the Chukchi Sea. I can also attest to this: There is no sight more blood-chilling than a large, male grizzly thirsting to gorge himself upon human flesh.

While seeking caribou on Alaska’s unforgiving North Slope, author Larry Hatter and his hunting party would become the hunted. (LARRY HATTER) aksportingjournal.com | NOVEMBER 2018

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

Such was the scenario unfolding before our little group of hunters who had made the long trek to the Brooks Range in search of the ever-wandering caribou herds. An orange- and red-glazed North Slope, once alive with hundreds of the nomads, had grown silent with the dusky evening’s approach. There was no sign of life in the

drainage presently, except four weary hunters on their way back to camp and one skulking assailant concealed a mere 20 yards distant in a stand of buck brush. The only sign of his presence was the autumn breeze caressing the bronze-colored hair adorning his shoulders and a set of expressionless eyes fixated on our every movement.

THE TRIP INTO THE North Slope had been without incident. Our final destination was a several-hours’ flight from the Dalton Highway and likewise if we’d originated from Kotzebue. This was as far as removed from the modern world as any of us had ever dared wander. That afternoon, as we prepared our quarters for the week, we paid little

Hatter, who guides big game hunters in his native Idaho, takes time to soak in the colorful setting. (LARRY HATTER)

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heed to an inquisitive grizzly skirting the rim of the basin we’d chosen for camp. After all, this was his country and this far from civilization, he likely

had never encountered a human being. It was only natural to investigate, then push on in search of some blueberries or a straggling caribou.

The evening passed quickly and we rose the next morning with all the vim and vigor that typically accompanies the first day of a hunt. Overnight,

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a heavy fog had blanketed the tundra and visibility wasn’t at its peak. Regardless, we anxiously donned our gear and headed afield. As is common with an initial foray into a new area, we spent that first day acquiring a feel for the territory and making our share of blunders. I vividly recall being perched upon an outcropping that overlooked the Noatak River. I was so deep in thought as I looked out over one of Alaska’s most remote landscapes, I completely ignored the telltale click-clack of caribou hooves behind me. With their hearts set on big caribou bulls like this, the hunters gave the grizzly that circled above camp as they set up little thought. (LARRY HATTER)

Sunset on the dangerous but hauntingly beautiful North Slope. (LARRY HATTER)

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When I finally came to my senses and glanced over my shoulder, I saw only the tops of several sets of antlers cresting out of sight. I made a feeble attempt to scale the ridge and hopefully find the group of bulls in view, but as everyone knows, you can’t catch caribou once they are ahead of you. A large hummock approximately a half-mile behind camp was our rendezvous that evening. Everyone had seen caribou from a distance but had failed to connect for one reason or another. After a brief discussion, we made the decision to head toward camp. All our stomachs were grumbling in anticipation of a few meager rations after a long day afield.

MIDWAY BACK TO CAMP, the well-defined caribou trail we were following came to an intersection, which resembled a ptarmigan track. On the off chance we might yet encounter a caribou before dark, we agreed to briefly part ways. I would take the left-hand spur and Jim the right. My brother Miles and father would continue on to camp. A brisk, five-minute walk found me ascending the last few yards of a knoll that afforded a commanding view of the valley. It appeared I wasn’t the only hunter with an interest in the view from this location, as evidenced by several piles of decaying wolf scat. As I turned to scan the direction of my ascent, the sequence of events that unfolded can only be described as surreal. An ominous figure had appeared on our back trail and was moving in our direction with fevered intent! His nose clung to the soil like a bloodhound, inhaling every ounce of human scent the dank earth could afford him. His intention was clear. He meant to overtake my companions as they marched toward camp, and with the amount of ground he was covering with each stride, it would only take seconds! At that point my senses had slowed to a gel-like state. I remember cold sweat kissing the hairs on the back of my neck. My heart pounded so loudly that it was almost inaudible when I yelled, “Grizzly!” Unfortunately, my scream was choked by an overwhelming state of panic and the garbled con-

Hatter’s brother Miles with a bear, a species the guys have encountered and hunted frequently in the past. Still, their harrowing confrontation with an aggressive grizzly in wild Alaska made this trip one they’ll never forget. (LARRY HATTER)

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coction that emerged didn’t carry much discernible volume. By this time the bear had cut the distance between he and his prey to a mere 50 yards and with the attack imminent was at a full charge! Once more I mustered what saliva my suddenly parched mouth possessed and with every last bit of breath I belted out, “Grizzly!” This time my cry rang out like a beacon and froze both men and bear in their tracks – no more than 30 yards apart. As I stumbled off the hillside, I fully expected the bear to turn and run. But to my astonishment, this wasn’t the case. Even though he was aware we had detected his presence, he merely crouched as low as possible and slunk his way into the brush beside the trail. He remained motionless until I reached my bewildered partners. Action must be taken decisively in a situation such as this. Our first move was to gain some elevation and distance between our adversary and us. This was easier said than done; as we moved so did the bear, his head tilted and ears pinned. When we paused he instantly found a small impression to obscure himself. For the next several minutes we waited anxiously. The brute would raise his

head slightly to gauge whether we were still staring in his direction, and then he would quickly recoil when he saw the whites of our eyes. If there was any question before, there was none presently. We were being hunted!

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AFTER MAKING A CAREFUL circle around the situation, Jim finally caught up with us from the flank. Considering he carried a grizzly tag and we had a problem bear in need of immediate attention, it was quickly decided he would take the animal. I remember the bruin watching Jim intently as he made his way into shooting position, carefully calculating his next move. But his lack of urgency would cost him his prey and his life. The rifle cracked, the bear rolled, only to rise once more in a frothing rage! Instinctively we reached for our weapons, but a follow-up shot rang out from Jim’s 7mm Mag and the threat was neutralized. I still ask myself questions about the events of that day and, I suppose, the answers will always remain in doubt. Was this the same bear we had seen circling our camp that first evening? Had he waited patiently for our group to separate, before executing an assault? Did he have a taste for man flesh? In my mind, that scenario doesn’t seem likely, but then again, most details of this story are an anomaly. In retrospect, I believe he had never encountered men before, knowing only that these gangly creatures were well below him on the food chain. More than likely, he was just another predator hastily filling the fat reserves necessary to see him through another harsh Alaska winter. I know only one thing with certainty: The bloodshot eyes of a salivating grizzly will remain etched in my mind long after the Arctic sun has turned his withered bones to dust. ASJ Editor’s note: Larry Hatter and his brother Miles run guided trips for Miles High Outfitters in Grangeville, Idaho. They offer big game hunts for elk, mule and whitetail deer and predators. For more, check out mileshighoutfitters.com or call (208) 739-0526.

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TUNDRA TAMERS: GREAT STUFF FOR HUNTERS

BY PAUL ATKINS ILLUSTRATION BY JOSEPH FRUEAUF

ooking back over the many years I’ve spent in the hunting world, I’ve seen a number of products come and go. Some were very useful, others not so much. Some were gimmicks and were

only around for a short time, but there have been a few that have stood the test of time and are still used today. Back in the 1990s it seemed like everyone was coming out with something

new. Every conceivable item – from earth-scented dryer sheets to moose calls with a built-in compass – lined the pages of your favorite mail-order catalog. There were gadgets that told us

The replaceable-blade technology of a Havalon is a reliable alternative to old school hunting knives for your big game skinning needs. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

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which way the wind was blowing as well as 100 different brands of scent killer, all claiming to be the best. Lately, though, the number of "latest and greatest” products on the market seems to have declined a bit. There are, however, a few innovations that have come out lately (the last five years or so) that really are necessities when heading to the woods or the tundra. Here are a few that I highly recommend.

HAVALON KNIVES I was once skeptical when it came to knives with replacement blades. Back then I did have an older model, but I was never satisfied with the performance, especially when it came to carving up a moose or a bear. I could never get the blades on right, especially when time was an issue. In the end, I always laid it down and grabbed my old drop-point blade. Now, I know many still prefer their old hunting knife and that’s fine, but you really need to try a Havalon if you haven’t already. Introduced to me on a recent goat hunt, these knives come in a variety of sizes and are tough as nails. I prefer the smaller version for skinning and it has performed well on many of my recent hunts, which have included muskox and grizzly. The blades are tough and easy to replace, and they’re razor sharp. The

Author Paul Atkins calls Thermacell "a godsend." Units provide protection against bugs without having to layer yourself with spray-on repellant. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

bigger version is ideal for cutting meat. Buy one and try it; you’ll be impressed!

THE THERMACELL For me personally and many others who hunt and fish constantly throughout the year, the Thermacell is a godsend that really does what it says it will do. A combination of butane and an impregnated blue scent pad inserted on top of a heat-

ing element create 15 square feet of bugless, biteless freedom. You can also buy a holster that easily slips over the unit and comes with a clip that attaches to everything from your coat to your pack. They are easy to use and don’t weigh much, making them a must-have, especially if you’re hunting or fishing in the deepest part of Alaska’s backcountry. If nothing else, these little units replace the nasty bug spray that we’ve all had to douse ourselves with in order to enjoy the outdoors. Buy one and you’ll see!

MR. BUDDY HEATER I don’t go anywhere in the Arctic without my Mr. Buddy. Matter of fact, I have three of them – just in case. These compact heaters are just that small and easily transportable to any hunting camp. They run on butane, and with a simple turn of the knob and a quick click of the pilot light you’ll have heat in seconds. Such comfort is much appreciated on those cold mornings when crawling out of your sleeping bag isn’t the most fun thing you’ll do. Just make sure you have unzipped the tent for some ventilation and turn it off before you leave. They’re not too expensive, which is significant considering they are a must on any adventure. ASJ

In the cold, unforgiving Arctic that Kotzebue resident Atkins frequents, portable heaters like this one from Mr. Heater are a must-have on hunting and fishing trips.

Editor’s note: Follow Paul Atkins on Twitter (@aktrophyhunter).

(PAUL D. ATKINS)

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RATTLE AND ROLL USE CALLS AND RATTLES TO ENTICE ALASKA’S SITKA BLACKTAILS

BY SCOTT HAUGEN

“

et’s move,” I whispered to my cameraman Bret Stuart. We’d been tucked into some tall alders while rattling and calling for Sitka blacktail deer on Kodiak Island. By the end of the rattling session, the snow was coming down hard, making it nearly impossible to see across the little flat we’d worked. As I began putting gear into my pack,

Rattling Sitka blacktails can be very effective this time of year, as evidenced by the record-book buck author Scott Haugen brought in on Kodiak Island. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

Bret tapped me and nodded. Across the clearing, emerging out of the brush was the unmistakable black forehead of a mature buck. I blew on the grunt tube because I hoped to pull the buck into the open to get a better look at him through the wall of falling snow. “I’m on him,” Bret whispered, his eyeball glued to the camera. The instant I

found the buck in my scope, I pulled the trigger. I knew he was big but not that big. When we approached the record-book four-pointer, the biggest Sitka blacktail I’d ever taken, my breath was taken away.

RATTLING AND CALLING SITKA can be very effective. Toss in a doe decoy and the odds of attracting a buck become even

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FIELD

SKEWER AND SIZZLE

Using metal or wooden skewers on the grill with game meat is a delicious way to enjoy your fall harvest. (TIFFANY HAUGEN)

BY TIFFANY HAUGEN

here aren’t many recipes that are as easy and versatile as a skewer full of meat cooked outside. This method can be done out in the field over a campfire, on the back porch grill, in a hot propane smoker, or even in an oven or on a hot cast iron skillet. Kebabs are always a favorite, as they are easy to prepare ahead, cook up quickly and can be tailored to fit any flavor profile. Just about any wild game meat you happen to have on hand will taste great with this marinade. If you want to add any fruits or vegetables to the kebab, it will amp up the flavors even more. Try adding cherry tomatoes, pineapple, mushrooms, onion, bell pepper and/or summer squash, just to name a few options.

If you’re heading to Kodiak Island on a deer hunt this month or looking to dive into that freezer full of meat from the fall, this is a recipe everyone will enjoy.

(To preserve wooden skewers, soak in water at least 30 minutes and wrap foil around the ends to keep from burning on the grill.)

1 pound venison backstrap or tenderloin ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup rice vinegar ¼ cup pineapple juice 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon maple syrup 1 tablespoon chopped chives or scallions 2 teaspoons sesame oil 2 teaspoons minced garlic 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes Additional chives, scallions or sesame seeds for garnish if desired. Four to six metal or wooden skewers

Trim meat of any fat or silverskin. Cut into bite-sized chunks. In a medium-sized bowl, mix soy sauce, rice vinegar, pineapple juice, olive oil, maple syrup, chives or scallions, sesame oil, garlic, ginger, and red pepper flakes. Mix until thoroughly combined. Add meat, stir – coating all pieces – and cover. Marinate in the refrigerator at least two hours. Preheat grill to high heat, about 450 degrees. Drain marinade from meat and discard. Thread meat onto skewers and let sit 15 minutes at room temperature while grill is heating. Place skewers on grill racks and close cover. Rotate kebabs, cooking one to two minutes per side or until they reach desired doneness. Garnish with additional chives, scallions or sesame seeds. copEditor’s note: For signed cop ies of Tiffany’s popular Cooking Big Game book, send a check for $20 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489 or visit tiffanyhaugen.com for this and many of her other cookbooks. Tiffany is a full-time author and part of the online series, Cook With Cabela’s. Also, watch for her on The Sporting Chef.

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Kodiak Island deer numbers have been solid the last few seasons, and this year could be a great time to start rattling in an effort to fill tags. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

greater. These deer aren’t too pressured, so from the prerut all the way through the rut and into postrut period, bucks can be called in. From rainforest habitats of Southeast Alaska to the open slopes and alder-choked draws of Kodiak and Afognak Islands, rattling is a fun way to hunt Sitka

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blacktails. On windy days or if hunting thick, wet cover, a synthetic rattle bag is great for producing high-pitch sounds with lots of volume that will travel. Real antlers are the choice of some hunters, especially on calm days. Personally, I’ve rattled in more deer with a synthetic bag than real antlers. I like a

rattle bag with all-plastic parts, as wooden parts can get wet and sound flat. One time I lost my rattle bag on Kodiak. I moved next to some alders and gathered an armload of branches. Using a grunt tube, doe bleats and breaking branches, I started in. I raked an alder, snapped limbs and stomped and kicked at the ground. I wanted to emulate a real knockdown, drag-out blacktail fight. It worked, as a few minutes later a nice three-point charged in. The shot was simple. I like starting out subtle when rattling for Sitka blacktails, in case a buck is hunkered close, tight inside the alders or amidst stall grass. I’ll rattle for 30 to 45 seconds, then wait a few minutes, and then repeat the sequence a little louder. This time I’ll wait for five minutes or so. If nothing shows, I’ll get louder, stomp the ground, break limbs and grunt, then wait five minutes or more. If nothing shows after 20 minutes, I move on. However, if set up in an area overlooking multiple places bucks can emerge from, I’ll work that spot for a couple hours. During November, bucks are on the move and can cover a great deal

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only real deer urine, and with the gel base we are able to stabilize the scent so it smells fresh on the shelf for up to two years. There are no synthetics in this scent and no ammonia smell, thanks to perfect pH levels. Get the buck and doe urines working in the wind and hold on. Last season a number of Columbia blacktail hunters had great success with this gel-based urine, and we’re excited to see it perform on Sitka blacktails. In the heaviest of rains the smell of fresh urine can still be detected after four days, and that’s with the human nose. Rattling Sitka blacktails can be a rush. Be alert if brown bears are active and pay close attention to every movement once your calling sequence starts. Once that first blacktail comes running in, you’ll be hooked on rattling these great deer. ASJ

There are few deer as striking as a mature Sitka blacktail buck. (MARK GLASSMAKER)

of ground in a short period of time. If you find a concentration of does with no bucks, keep a close eye on them, as bucks will eventually show up.

USING SCENTS SUCH AS deer urine can also be very effective, especially if you’re

going to dedicate some time to calling in one place. For two years I worked with Pro-Cure, a world leader in the production of fishing scents, to perfect a deer urine gel for hunting blacktails in wet weather. Pro-Cure’s ability to create waterproof scents is unmatched. We use

Editor’s note: Signed copies of Scott Haugen’s best-selling Trophy Blacktails: The Science Of The Hunt can be obtained by sending $20 to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489, or from scotthaugen.com. His specialized blacktail deer urine is also available there.

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