FISHING • HUNTING • ADVENTURE
AKSPORTINGJOURNAL.COM
Volume 11 • Issue 7 www.aksportingjournal.com PUBLISHER James R. Baker
INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER Lois Sanborn
GENERAL MANAGER John Rusnak
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES media@media-inc.com
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott EDITOR Chris Cocoles WRITERS Paul D. Atkins, Bjorn Dihle, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Pete Robbins, Conor Sullivan SALES MANAGER Paul Yarnold ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mamie Griffin, Jim Klark, Mike Smith DESIGNER Lesley-Anne Slisko-Cooper PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker, Malena Kennedy WEB DEVELOPMENT/INBOUND MARKETING Jon Hines, Jon Eske
MEDIA INDEX PUBLISHING GROUP 14240 Interurban Ave South • Suite 190 Tukwila, WA 98168 (206) 382-9220 • Fax (206) 382-9437 media@media-inc.com • www.media-inc.com CORRESPONDENCE Twitter @AKSportJourn Facebook.com/alaskasportingjournal Email ccocoles@media-inc.com ON THE COVER Some of Paul Atkins’ favorite Alaska hunts have been chasing giant moose bulls for the plethora of meat he can fill his freezer with. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
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CONTENTS
VOLUME 11 • ISSUE 7
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LET’S GET YOUR BULL!
Our Paul Atkins has plenty of stories of stalking moose on the Arctic tundra and river valleys of Western and Northwest Alaska. Some of those harvests were unconventional and pure luck, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t take skill to score one of these big game gems of the Last Frontier. Atkins recalls one of his favorite bull hunts – including some bonus caribou – with a Lower 48 buddy.
(PAUL D. ATKINS)
FEATURES
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE
32
9 11 13 25
40
46
HOLIDAY WATERFOWL WISH LIST From calls to a top-notch shotgun and even a rambler to keep that early-morning cup of coffee hot in the blind, we’ll bet that the waterfowler in your life would love nothing more than to open one of these gifts for your holiday celebration! Scott Haugen reveals many of his field-tested wish-list items, including new swag for your faithful fourlegged hunting companion. And Tiffany Haugen adds a delicious curry goose or duck dish as part of a holiday-themed From Field to Fire column. MAKING IT THROUGH COVID SEASON , ROUND 2
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The Editor’s Note Alaska Beat Outdoor calendar Tip of the month: Choosing the right hunting knives The Pride of Bristol Bay: Packrafting the dangerous Savonoski Loop
After hundreds of thousands of deaths and millions of cases across the country, the COVID-19 pandemic has taken a toll on everyone. But as vaccinations became available starting in spring 2021, tourism businesses such as Alaska fishing lodges were able to safely welcome guests who were ready to don waders and get in on some of North America’s best fishing this year. Correspondent Pete Robbins caught up with Bristol Bay’s Bear Trail Lodge owner Nanci Morris Lyon for a recap of how her lodge coped with virus protocols. FISHING KODIAK’S ‘VALLEY OF THE GIANTS’ AND MORE
Conor Sullivan’s love for catching big fish stretches across North America. He’s caught huge tuna off the coast of Massachusetts, but some of his best days on the water have occurred in Alaska, where he was a U.S. Coast Guard commander on Kodiak Island and fished for halibut in an area he nicknamed the “Valley of the Giants.” In an excerpt from his new book, Fishing the Wild Waters, Sullivan details the challenges and exhilaration of reeling up these famed flatfish from the depths – and super close-in waters too.
Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Inc. Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Inc. Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $49.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Inc. Publishing Group, 14240 Interurban Ave South, Suite 190, Tukwila, WA 98168 or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues may be ordered at Media Inc. Publishing Group, subject to availability, at the cost of $5 plus shipping. Copyright © 2021 Media Inc. Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A. 6
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EDITOR’S NOTE A happy angler who was able to get to Bristol Bay and fish with Bear Trail Lodge in 2021 represents a methodical return to normalcy as we learn to live with the COVID-19 pandemic.
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hile reading Pete Robbins’ story about how Bear Trail Lodge safely welcomed Bristol Bay anglers who have waited through a deadly pandemic to get back to traveling in a somewhat normal existence (page 40), I thought back to journeys I was able to take this year. From wearing my mask on the plane to verifying my vaccination status and taking COVID-19 tests, it was a challenge, but it also reinforced my faith in having taken the vaccine and being able to get through my travel itinerary OK. Robbins talked to Bear Trail Lodge owner Nanci Morris Lyon one year after he traveled to the same Naknek River lodge the previous summer. (He and his wife Hanna chronicle their outdoor adventures on their First Cast, Half Past website.) While the pandemic is still a threat, Robbins pointed out that Morris Lyon’s operation was able to loosen up a few of the restrictions the author endured when he took advantage of the area’s epic fishing in 2020. Guests had to show proof of vaccination or pass a COVID test within 72 hours of arrival. Those reasonable mandates allowed them, me and so many others to get away in 2021, and while we continue to keep an eye on surges of the virus, Bear Trail Lodge’s successful summer is promising news. We might have to be leery about cases for an extended period of time, but as sports venues, airplanes and hotels begin to fill up with customers, we can see the light at the end of what’s been a disturbingly dark tunnel. As I write this, I’m planning a Thanksgiving gathering with relatives I haven’t seen in almost two years. I hope we can all safely reunite with our loved ones. And for those who were lucky enough to catch salmon in Bristol Bay during 2021’s productive runs, the Nanci Morris Lyons of the world who rely on our dream fishing trips are grateful and looking forward to a brighter future. And we’re all feeling a little more normal again. -Chris Cocoles
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ALASKA BEAT TWEET OF THE MONTH Gov. Mike Dunleavy is exploring a plan to introduce Sitka blacktails in the Mat-Su Valley to provide new hunting opportunities, but the Anchorage Daily News obtained a scoping report that suggested such a project might not be successful. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
DEER IMPORTS
A
laska Gov. Mike Dunleavy last month announced his plan to introduce a population of Sitka blacktail deer in the Mat-Su Valley to enhance hunting opportunities for residents there. In a state where so many residents rely on hunting to provide food for the table, it sounds like a great idea. “While many Americans see food security strictly through food charities, Gov. Dunleavy believes the opportunity for Alaskans to obtain food through traditional means, such as hunting, is just as important,” the governor’s press secretary Patty Sullivan told the Anchorage Daily News. That same ADN article reported others are less sure about the proposal. In a scoping report the newspaper obtained, biologists cited everything from predators, the extreme cold temperatures the Mat-Su Valley experiences to the lack of kelp as a food source that benefited other relocated deer populations such as on Kodiak Island, as possible factors in the plan failing. Further evaluation from the Alaska Department of Fish and Game will decide if the governor’s plan procedes.
“ THEY SAID IT
“Alaskans take their fishing very seriously. She’s got a problem with her fishing license and residency problem.”
-Alaska US Senator Lisa Murkowski, to CNN, about her likely GOP Senate re-election opponent, Kelly Tshibaka, who allegedly purchased a resident sportfishing license illegally in 2019.
Happy Veterans Day, thank you to all those who’ve served and sacrificed. Here is a few photos on my dad and his veteran buddies I took halibut fishing in #alaska it was a great day on the ocean with great company #VeteransDay2021 –@mr907k, Nov. 11
386 NOTABLE NUMBER
Estimated 2020 population of wolves in Game Management Unit 2, Prince of Wales Island and nearby areas, which will help determine the harvest quota for a month-long hunt that runs through December 15.
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HUNTING TRIP FROM HELL With Alaska’s unpredictable weather, you never know when conditions will delay your transportation pickup during a remote hunting or fishing trip. But for a group of hunters near the Yukon River, it was taking that Murphy’s Law expectation a little bit to the extreme. Seven hunters were staying at a fish
camp off the Yukon near the southwestern Alaska community of Emmonak. But as they prepared to leave in late October, they encountered a river that was frozen too thick to leave by boat, but just thin enough to make it unsafe to travel by snowmachine. So the men waited. And waited. And waited. A Coast Guard helicopter was scheduled to pick them up but had to delay
its arrival before finally showing up after a week. Needless to say, the men were frustrated. Alaska State Troopers dropped food and supplies in the interim, and the men melted frozen water for drinking. “We got to the point where we didn’t really care if they showed up, because it’s not exciting anymore,” one of the miffed men told Alaska’s News Source after they finally headed home.
FROM THE ASJ ARCHIVES – DECEMBER 2015
A STEELHEADER’S SPLIT-SECOND DECISIONS
T
A difference between a steelhead angler feeling exhilaration or failure could boil down to a half-second decision. (JEFF LUND) 12
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hen, of course, there are situations when a half-second matters most. A few days after I mastered patience and was rewarded with some beautiful, fat trout in a small stretch of thin water, I went to a larger river for a weekend of camping in the rain and catching steelhead. At least we hoped as much. I was using my new favorite steelhead pattern – one that I tied but am sure I did not invent, even though I have never seen it before. It sinks quickly but isn’t too heavy, and is perfect for even water up to midthigh depth. It’s a compact design with no extra material, so every hit can find the hook. I was fishing a run that was parallel to a downed tree on new water. It was at the edge of my longest roll cast. Because the water was clear and maybe a little low, I didn’t want to get too close and spook anything holding more toward the center. I was using an indicator and saw it dip but didn’t react. I let the rig swing out, then stripped and cast again. Same spot, no dip. I had missed a strike. The oral coordination of steelhead is often incredible. Their ability to take with such calculated caution causing only a subtle change in the direction of a fly is almost unfair – especially considering once the fish is on, the fight is so violent. I kept throwing to the same spot to make sure I gave that fish another chance, but it had either moved or was onto me. I moved to the tail end of the run and fished where the top of the tree pointed. I knew the indicator would disappear. I really knew it. I stared through the cold air. My eyes watered, but I dared not blink. -Jeff Lund
Dec. 1 Dec. 1 Dec. 1 Dec. 1 Dec. 1 Dec. 1 Dec. 1 Dec. 1
Dec. 15 Dec. 15 Dec. 15 Dec. 15
OUTDOOR CALENDAR*
Resident antlered bull moose season opens in GMU 9C (Alaska Peninsula; Naknek River drainage) Resident antlered bull moose season opens in GMU 9E (Alaska Peninsula)
Caribou season opens in GMU 14A and 14B (Mat-Su Valley) Resident antlerless moose season opens in GMU 14A (Mat-Su Valley) Resident antlered bull moose season opens in GMU 17B and 17C (Bristol Bay) Note: May be announced Moose season opens in GMU 18 (YukonKuskokwim Delta) Antlerless moose season opens in GMU 20B (Fairbanks-Central Tanana, within Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge) Resident moose season opens in GMU 20F (Fairbanks-Central Tanana, Yukon River drainage downstream from but not including Hess Creek drainage and excluding Tanana River drainage) GMU 2 wolf season ends (Prince of Wales Island) Last day to apply for 2022 draw hunt tags Resident antlered bull moose season opens in GMU 9B, 9C and 9D (Alaska Peninsula) Various moose seasons open in GMU 14 (Joint Base Elmendorf Richardson Management Area)
For more information and season dates for Alaska hunts, go to adfg. alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=hunting.main. Note: Check with local contacts on events that could be postponed/ cancelled due to COVID-19 pandemic.
Moose season opens in several game management units this month, including GMUs 9 (Alaska Peninsula), 14A and 14B (Mat-Su Valley) and 17B and 17C (Bristol Bay).
(KATHERINE BELCHER/ NATIONAL PARK SERVICE)
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Author Paul Atkins (left) and his Lower 48 buddy Garrett had shared previous hunting adventures in Alaska, including on this 2001 trip. But when Garrett came back years later to hunt big game around the Wulik River in the northwest corner of the state, it might have been the greatest adventure of them all. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
GARRETT’S GREAT MOOSE ADVENTURE LOWER 48ER EXPERIENCES AN EPIC – NOT TO MENTION INCREDIBLY LUCKY – ALASKA BULL HUNT BY PAUL D. ATKINS
H
e was big and brown, and all I could really remember was the swaying of those big antlers. It happened in a moment and to say it was surreal is an understatement. What to do next?
MOST OF THE MOOSE kills I’ve been associated with have been a surprise, with most harvests completed while hunting something else. Very few times have I actually killed a moose while looking for a moose; most of those times
it’s been under bizarre circumstances – if not pure luck. A few years ago, I had a good friend up from the Lower 48 wanting to experience the wilds of Alaska. We flew to a great spot, watched caribou all the
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One of the joys and overlooked aspects of remote hunting trips is the fishing. The Wulik River is pristine and full of fish. From monster Arctic char to beautiful grayling, they just kept biting the small lures Atkins and his friends cast. “This is the biggest grayling I have ever caught,” the author says. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
way and even saw a grizzly or two as the Cessna cruised above the river valley. The fishing was excellent, the weather was perfect and we each had a pocket full of tags. BACK IN THOSE DAYS, acquiring a moose tag was pretty easy. There were more moose then and most nonresidents drew on their first time applying. Garrett did, so we planned our trip for the Wulik River region, a “small” area about the size of Rhode Island and which is way north of Kotzebue and close to Red Dog Mine. This was a big game mecca back then, one of the few places where you could actually – with the proper tags, of course – take five of Alaska’s big game animals. On any day you would not only see moose, but caribou, grizzly, sheep and even a muskox or two. I know we did on that trip. Joining Garrett and I was another good friend, Justin, who was just along for the ride. Looking back, I’m so glad Justin was with us. Without his help at camp and with the events that transpired, things would have been much tougher for the two of us. We had a great tent this trip, plus plenty of firewood and a new blue raft
Even though finding big bulls mostly boils down to luck, putting yourself in good moose country, like the bottoms along this river, is where it all starts. After that, it’s putting in your time glassing. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 16
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that we planned to use. And except for the pouring rain we got the first day and snow on the second, we were having a great time. Moose were there, but none were shooters. Early-morning jaunts to the hill behind camp proved that we were in the right place, and even though all we saw were small bulls and cows maneuvering through the willows down below, it was a special sight to see. During the day we brought out the rods and reels and fished the narrow river that was so clear and clean you could probably drink out of it if you wanted to. We caught grayling and Arctic char, which we enjoyed each night around the fire with a snifter of bourbon each afterwards. We were content; even though we hadn’t found a 60-plus-inch giant, it felt like we were on the greatest adventure of our lives.
“Tents are nice, but a teepee, not so much. It rained the first day and snowed the second. We had a bit of a flooding problem, but once we got things moved and settled in, it worked out quite nicely,” the author states. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
“Our primary goal was moose, but when you see caribou and have tags to fill, you take advantage,” Atkins recalls. “We did and were extremely lucky to turn this hunt into one of the greatest adventures of our lives.” (PAUL D. ATKINS) 18
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THE FIRST COUPLE OF days were pretty much actionless, but after a late lunch on the third day we headed to a small hill on the tundra to glass the valley below us. I was glassing the far side of the river when I noticed a small group of caribou feeding along a willow patch. It was over a mile away, but I could see a couple of large mature bulls mingling with about 10 cows. Without a moose in sight, I talked my friends into trekking over to just see how big the caribou were. Our primary goal had always been moose, but we also had several caribou tags between us. Scoring a couple of nice bulls would make the hunt more enjoyable and successful, not to mention help fill the freezer back home. Cinching up our hip waders, we took off, crossing several rivers and deep streams to get there. Finally, we made it to the area where we had last
“With only one gun between us we knew we would have to be fast,” Atkins (right) says of he and Garrett’s bang-bang shots at two caribou bulls standing by each other. (PAUL D. ATKINS) Once you find a moose and get it down, the true work starts. There is nothing easy about a moose, especially when you’re 100 miles deep into the backcountry and 2 miles from camp. Two people can get it done, but if you have a third, then all the better. “I’m so glad we had Justin (far right) along on this trip,” Atkins says. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
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Talk about a packed packraft! The meat and antlers of an enormous moose and two caribou bulls made for a heavy load in Atkins’ new blue raft. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
seen the small band. Crawling through the last batch of dense willows, the bulls minus the cows came into view, leaving us all feeling pretty lucky. At the time we only had one rifle, which was primarily for bear protection, though we hadn’t seen any bruins up to that point. Garrett had his bow, but we both knew getting close enough for a shot with an arrow was out of the question. We picked out two bulls close together, which gave us the best chance at taking both. I put up the tripod, eased the gun up and settled in. The shot found its mark and a bull dropped in his tracks. Quickly I handed the rifle to Garrett and the second bull fell not 10 yards from mine. It was a great moment as, surrounded by an incredible view of the river and mountains, the two big bulls we had down would fulfill most hunters’ Alaskan dreams. But it wasn’t until minutes later that we realized the real action was about to begin.
WE’D TAKEN PHOTOS AND and begun 22
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field dressing the two caribou bulls when I happened to look up and see an expanse of brown hide and palmated antler moving through the willows. The bull was humongous, but this beast of a moose didn’t seem frightened by us at all. Adding surrealism to the moment, the big bull kept swinging his massive head from side to side as slobber flew from his mouth! Looking back, I don’t know if he was looking for a fight, thinking we were another moose or what; all I know was that he continued his march, which ended up being his final mistake. With plenty of shooting light left, I grabbed Garrett and we headed towards him, using willows for cover. When we got to within 100 yards, I handed Garrett my rifle and boom! – big bull down. He was a true trophy at 65 inches wide and close to 2,000 pounds of pure Alaskan muscle! Getting the moose and the two caribou packed out was an event in itself. The process took about three days to complete, but it was well worth it!
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IF YOU’VE EVER HUNTED Alaska – or anywhere, for that matter – you know things can change in a matter of minutes. Our luck took place after we took the two caribou, but when Garrett was able to shoot the moose of his dreams, it made it even more so. What I remember most about that trip was that pack back to camp in the dark. Covered in blood, we bushwhacked our way through bear country, all while being scared to death and getting soaked by the rain. It was pretty intense, to say the least. ASJ Editor’s note: Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and author formerly of Kotzebue, Alaska. He’s had hundreds of articles published on big game hunting in Alaska and throughout North America and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic. His new book Atkins’ Alaska is available on Amazon and everywhere good books are sold. It can also be ordered through his website paulatkinsoutdoors.com and if you want an autographed copy, contact Paul at atkinsoutdoors@gmail.com.
OUTDOOR TIPS OF THE MONTH
Hunters know they need the right gear to get the job done, even more so when it comes to selecting a knife. Next to your weapon, it’s probably the second most important tool on any big game hunt.
(PAUL D. ATKINS)
KNIVES IN: THE BEST BLADES FOR HUNTERS Editor’s note: Each month, our Paul Atkins will offer a tip for outdoorsmen and -women can use as they prepare for an Alaska adventure. This month: What is the perfect hunting knife? BY PAUL D. ATKINS
S
tanding on the steep incline looking into the valley deep below I was in awe. The boulder-strewn landscape we had just climbed went on forever. It blended into the hillside and eventually
up into the high peaks where we were. As I tried to keep my balance and not fall, I was still in shock, especially after taking the animal that was down before me. I only came back to reality after Andy handed me a knife and said, “Let’s get this done and get off this mountain.”
A GOOD KNIFE IS CRITICAL A quality knife may be considered a hunter’s best friend; for many of us, it was the first real hunting tool we received when we were young. Having a knife-appreciating dad meant you were
one step away from your first gun. That was about as important as it got for most of us. No hunter should be without a good blade. You want something that performs in all situations; whether it’s a job as simple as cutting rope or an involved one like skinning a grizzly, deboning a moose quarter or maybe even a goat, a good knife is a must on any hunt. Choosing a knife was once pretty simple, but with the vast array of options out there, hunters now have to make choices and decide what will work best
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Drop-point knives are true workhorses and are designed for cutting performance and ease of use. “I personally like a midsized blade for their ease of use,” author Paul Atkins says.
(PAUL D. ATKINS)
Gut-hook knives are designed as compact dual-purpose tools for both unzipping animals, per se, and skinning them. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
for them. Here are some guidelines that I recommend you follow before purchasing one of your most important hunting tools.
FIXED OR FOLDING BLADES?
Fixed blades are just that, a blade fixed into a handle and usually coming with a sheath. In my opinion, they are the easiest to use and clean. Knives with a fixed blade are very popular; they’re rugged, reliable and are great for heavy-duty work that requires a little more torque. The downside is that a fixed blade knife is bulkier and harder to transport. They can also be a bit more dangerous when it comes to hunting, particularly if you're hunting/ hiking through rough country. I’ve carried a number of fixed blades over the years, but only a few have performed to my expectations, especially on their second time in the field. They work nicely out of the box, but have either been hard to sharpen or just don’t hold an edge. Finding a blade that works consistently in all occasions is the key to a great fixed blade. Folding knives have become very popular for many hunters as well. Their ease of use and storability are the biggest factors, particularly for those hunters who are trying to cut down on weight and 26
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want to keep things simple. Most come with a clip and can easily fit into a pocket or attach to the side of your pack. Most folding knives produced today are tough and can handle the toughest of chores. Folders basically come in two types: pocketknives and lockbacks. For hunting and safety reasons, I recommend the lockback. The blade folds out and locks into position to create a rigid blade that can be used as a fixed blade. For me, they’re easy to use and maneuver, plus the ability to stick them anywhere is a huge seller. Most lockback knives come with a thumb spur or a hole that can be easily opened with one hand, allowing you to open the blade in one fluid motion. Spyderco’s Stretch (sypderco.com) is a favorite folder of mine. This highperformance drop point is close to 8 inches in length, has a 3.5-inch blade and weighs in at a measly 3.5 ounces. It’s perfect for the sheep or goat hunter. Pocketknives are a great choice once the heavy work is done. However, I’ve seen a lot of hunters use a small pocketknife to field dress an entire caribou, and they work! Tasks such as caping or skinning small game are ideal for the pocket variety, which keeps the chance of cutting yourself to a minimum. There are a wide variety of small pocketknives to choose from.
SPECIFIC-PURPOSE KNIVES
Bear hides are tough and tundra grizzlies, like this one, are one of the toughest Alaska animals to skin, in Atkins’ opinion. Their hide and feet can wreak havoc on normal knives, so make sure you’re ready when you take on this task. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
BLADES Like I mentioned earlier, when it comes to using a knife, there is nothing better than a good blade that will hold an edge from start to finish. Knife blades were once limited to one or two types; nowadays there are hundreds of styles to choose from, all in a variety of steel types. For me, if I don’t have my Havalon, I like to use a drop-point blade for skinning and just about everything else I do while I’m in the field. One of my favorites is the Diskin by Kershaw (kershaw.kaiusa.com). This drop point is made in the U.S. and ideal for field dressing or just about any task a hunter will face. It has a slim handle, which provides a comfortable, secure fit in your hand. Function and elegance are both rolled into one with this knife. The Bill Moran drop point by Spyderco 28
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is also a favorite. It has a midsized blade at about 4 inches and is designed for optimal performance. I prefer the coated black non-reflective model, which is an excellent choice for skinning and caping. The handle is rubbery texture, which eliminates slipping and keeps the knife secure, even if your hands are wet, cold or gloved. Another popular type is the clip-point blade, which comes with a concave top and a fine point on the end. This blade is excellent for making small puncture holes or doing delicate work in small places. Clip points can be used for skinning, but hunters must be careful not to accidentally cut holes in the hide if keeping a cape or skin for other reasons. Spyderco’s Enuff series is excellent. Its clip-point knives come with a heavy-duty sheath and are also American made.
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Like choosing different broadheads for bowhunting different types of game, there are knives made specifically for certain purposes. Many knives have “gut hooks,” which are used to unzip an animal and not puncture the intestines. Certain knives can be purchased with built-in gut hooks, located on the topside of the blade and ideal for the all-purpose hunter. Kershaw’s LoneRock has a gut hook and also folds up into a nice little package. They’re perfect for the hunter who wants the best of all worlds. One of my all-time favorite specialpurpose knives is the Muskrat, made by Knives of Alaska (knivesofalaska .com). This caping and fleshing knife is specifically designed for getting into tight spots – around antlers and other delicate areas. It has a sharpened edge that extends around the top. Once you use it you’ll wonder how you did without one. One of the most popular cutting utensils these days is a replaceable blade-type knife, which is more like a surgeon’s scalpel and is crazy-sharp. The Havalon-type folder, with its replaceable-type blade, proves itself again and again on pretty much all big game. It folds and comes in a variety of sizes for different applications. I was a skeptic at first. The small thin blade looked flimsy, especially if I had a moose down and had to deal with that thick hide and bone structure. But as the saying goes, don’t knock it until you try it, and so I did. It performed flawlessly and actually made the chore easier and more enjoyable. If you break a blade, just replace it with another; it just takes seconds and isn’t too expensive. Other knives come with saw blades that help the hunter cut through bone and other dense material such as tree limbs or even kindling for a fire. Others have serrated edges, which enable the hunter to saw through thicker material and make cuts that sometimes get tough.
KNIFE HANDLES Probably one of the most overlooked aspects when choosing a knife is the handle. Basically, you have three types: wood, bone and synthetic. Wood and bone grips are pleasing to look at and can be seen in a lot of
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Having the right knife helps make processing big game easier, safer and ultimately allows you to get everything back home in a clean and neat package.
(PAUL D. ATKINS)
collections. I have many knives that have never seen blood but look great in my gun safe. If I were to use them, they would probably do fine. I personally like knives with a synthetic or rubberized textured grip. They feel good in your hand, ensure a better grip and, in some situations, feel warmer to the touch, especially when the thermometer drops. These handles are also cheaper in cost but not in performance. Also, models in an orange color have become quite popular. They’re easy to see, which will allow you to spend less time trying to figure out where you left your knife after a long day of field dressing.
All said and done, Atkins says you’ll likely settle on a few quality models that “make the cut (no pun intended) and become your go-to knives.” (PAUL D. ATKINS)
HOW MANY KNIVES DO I NEED? If you’re like me, you have several knives and each one was bought for a particular reason. Some were great and some ended up in a drawer or in the trash. In the end, a couple quality models will make the cut (no pun intended) and become your go-to knives. As hunters, we want a knife that will perform at all times and is trustworthy when it comes to taking care of business, 30
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particularly in the critical moments after the shot has been fired. A knife becomes our trusted friend and needs to be sharp and stay sharp. Also, like choosing a particular rifle, bow or even a hunting partner, we should choose our knives carefully, because they must perform in
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the field and, in some instances, might even save your life. ASJ Editor’s note: Got a question for Paul to answer about an Alaska hunting or fishing trip? Send one to editor Chris Cocoles at ccocoles@media-inc.com.
GUN GIFTS, STOCKING STUFFERS AND PERFECT PUP PRESENTS HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS FOR WATERFOWLERS, HUNTING DOGS BY SCOTT HAUGEN
A
s a columnist of more than 20 years, when it comes to gear picks and suggesting items I think fellow hunters would appreciate, I don’t write about anything I’ve not personally used. This marks my 31st year of hunting throughout Alaska, a state I lived in for nine of those years. Based on those experiences in the Last Frontier, here are some gifts to consider for next waterfowl season.
BROWNING MAXUS II
I shot the original Maxus for four seasons. I loved it. This year I went to the Browning Maxus II and loved it even more. I used the new edition in extreme conditions in Alaska and throughout the Northwest. The power drive gas system rocks, cycling all sizes and brands of loads I used, up to 3½ inches. It shoulders fast and the overall ergonomics make for easy handling. Thanks to the rubber overmolding in multiple locations, it’s easy to grip in all conditions and it's comfortable, all-around. It’s easy to strip down and clean and it just keeps working. Retail price: $1,979.99; browning.com. 32
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BROWNING WICKED BLEND Wicked Blend is a combination of 30 percent precision round bismuth stacked atop very meticulously rounded steel, which makes up the remaining 70 percent of the load. The bismuth not only increases the load’s pellet count, it offers more downrange energy. The tight pattern and knockdown power of this load is consistent and impressive, and I’ve used it on just about every waterfowl species in Alaska (except for eiders). It comes in a BB and size 1 shot bismuth for geese, and 2 and 4 bismuth for ducks. Learn more at browningammo.com.
SLAYER DUCK CALLS For the past three months I’ve been using the Drake Slayer double- and single-reed acrylic duck calls. They’ve both performed flawlessly on multiple hunts in multiple states for a mix of species in a range of weather conditions. Slayer duck calls are some of the easiest calls I’ve run, and beginners will love the double reed. The single reed reaches high volumes, tones and pitches
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For holiday gift ideas for that waterfowl hunter in your life, author Scott Haugen loves the firearm and ammo combination of Browning’s Maxus II and the company’s Wicked Blend load. And Slayer Duck Calls are worth checking out, as are the fully flocked Final Approach mallard decoys, which Haugen’s still testing. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
FIELD
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FIELD USE COCONUT AND CURRY TO SPICE UP GEESE, DUCKS BY TIFFANY HAUGEN
W
aterfowl season is still going in select parts of Alaska. Whether you’re bringing home fresh puddle, diving or sea duck, or looking to make space in the freezer by putting those early-season ducks and geese to use, there are many ways to cook them. Here’s a recipe everyone in our family has enjoyed, many times over. Slathering waterfowl in spices is a great way to give them deep flavor
and keep the moisture in. This Indianinspired dish produces a rich, creamy sauce; keeping it all in the oven bag ensures a delectable end product. One whole goose or two to three dressed ducks (plucked or skinned)
YELLOW CURRY PASTE Half onion, chopped 4 cloves garlic
When bringing home a couple brants as Bree Dugan (inset) did, consider using a coconut base to create a delicious waterfowl dish as prepared by Tiffany Haugen. (TIFFANY HAUGEN) 34
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Juice and zest of half a lemon 2 teaspoons curry powder 2 teaspoons coriander 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon white pepper One 14-ounce can coconut milk Using a food processor or minichopper, blend all curry paste ingredients until smooth. Place goose or ducks into an oven roasting bag. Place the bag into an oven-proof casserole pan. Coat the bird(s) with the curry mixture and pour coconut milk in the bag. Seal the bag and make several slits on the top for steam to escape. Bake in a preheated, 350-degree oven for 45 minutes or until the meat thermometer reaches 140 to 160 degrees. To brown birds, carefully slice open the bag down the center, tucking into the sides of the pan during the last 10 minutes of cooking time. Remove from oven and let sit for 10 minutes. Serve birds over rice with curry sauce from the bag. Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany Haugen's popular book, Cooking Game Birds, send a check for $20 to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489, or visit scotthaugen.com for this and other titles.
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FIELD
snowshoeing trips and cross-country skiing adventures. Then, of course, we had to get a couple 14-ounce Rambler Mugs with the Mugslilder lids. We wouldn’t keep going back to Yeti drinkware if we didn’t like it. The doublewall vacuum insulation keeps liquids hot on those cold morning or afternoon outings. Learn more at yeti.com.
YETI DOG BED
Since the holiday season is a time of giving, who better to get gifts for than our four-legged best friends? So, while we’re on a Yeti fix, let’s take a look at the company’s products for gun pups. The Trailhead dog bed is the best dog bed we’ve used. Both of my dogs love it. After a hard day of hunting or a rigorous workout, it’s a race to see who gets to the bed first. Thankfully the bed features a removable travel pad so each dog can enjoy it, but I bet they’ll be getting another one this month so they don’t have to share. Santa says shhhh! We’ve had the bed for almost a year and have washed the removable liners many times; it’s still like new. The pillow bolster is sturdy and hasn’t broken down one bit. The tough bottom easily handles our 65-pound dog and the waterproof outer cover is great for road trips. With a three-year warranty, you can’t beat this bed. Retail price: $299; yeti.com.
When in the blind needing that hot cup of coffee, the Rambler is just one of many Yeti products the author has used and been pleased to keep taking along on hunts. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
DIRTY DOG DOORMAT
We loved our Dirty Dog doormat so
seasoned hunters will appreciate. No matter where in the world you duck hunt, these calls are worth checking out. Retail price: $120; slayercalls.com.
YETI TUMBLER AND RAMBLER
Last season I got a 20-ounce Yeti Tumbler with the Magslide lid, which I love. But I usually had my coffee downed by the time I started the hike to the duck blind. So, I got the 26-ounce Rambler, which features a chug cap, meaning I could drink directly from it and didn’t have to take my Tumbler afield. I liked it so much, my wife and I got the half-gallon Rambler Jug for hikes, 36
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Haugen ranks Yeti’s Trailhead Dog Bed as the best he’s used and is confident it will meet the needs of hunting dogs in Alaska and elsewhere, year-round. (YETI)
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NUTRISOURCE DOG FOOD
much that we got a second one, and then a third. Not only does this miracle mat collect water, mud, dirt, seeds, hair and drool, it’s so comfortable our dogs often curl up on them for a nap. The microfiber technology of these mats allow them to absorb up to seven times their weight in water. Millions of soft microfiber strands feel and act like a soft sponge, keeping floors clean. We use them both inside and outside entryways and even in our truck on road trips. They’re great for human foot traffic as well. They work year-round, whether it is wet and snowy in the winter, or hot and dry with lots of grass and dust in the summer. The non-skid backing sets it apart from competitors and it works great on wood and vinyl floors. Retail price: $39.95 for large size; dgspetproducts.com.
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Every time I see a gundog on a diet of cheap food, I cringe. That’s like feeding professional athletes junk food. Hunting dogs are such high-level performers, providing them with high-quality food should be a top priority. For 11 months I’ve been feeding my female pudelpointer, Echo, NutriSource’s new Element Series, and the results of this high-protein diet continue to amaze me in her daily performance and rapid recovery times following hard hunts and intense training sessions. Element has three times the protein of most foods (it’s up to 90-percent animal protein) and it supports nitrogen and ammonia utilization, meaning there is no extra gas or diarrhea that can occur with other high protein diets. Kona, my 5-year-old male pudelpointer, eats Element during winter hunting season, as it makes an obvious difference in his recovery times on cold and wet weather hunts.
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The rest of the year he’s on a diet of standard NutriSource food. Visit nutrisourcepetfoods.com to find a dealer near you.
OTHER OPTIONS Don’t forget those stocking stuffers for your pup. Yes, dogs love opening little gifts too! Smoked cow bones that contain marrow, Benebone’s new salmon-flavored chew, Earth Animal’s No-Hide chews, and healthy treats – my dogs love NutriSource soft treats and jerky – are all excellent choices, as are sturdy balls and other toys. The list goes on, but these are items we’ve put to extensive use and been very pleased with. Have a joyous holiday season and great rest of the waterfowling season. ASJ Editor’s note: For signed copies of Scott’s best-selling books, visit scotthaugen.com. You can also follow his and wife Tiffany’s adventures on Instagram and Facebook.
ALASKA ANCHORAGE Anchorage Yamaha Suzuki Marine 3919 Spenard Rd (907) 243-8343 anchorageyamaha.com
FAIRBANKS Northern Power Sports 1980 Van Horn Rd (907) 452-2762 northernpowersports.com
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‘WE MA THRO
Bear Trail Lodge, located on the Naknek River in Bristol Bay, once again had to endure a fishing season while utilizing COVID-19 protocols. But thanks to vaccinations being available, “We made it through,” owner Nanci Morris Lyon says. (BEAR TRAIL LODGE) 40
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MADE IT T ROUGH’
HOW A BRISTOL BAY LODGE NAVIGATED ANOTHER COVID-INFLUENCED FISHING SEASON BY PETE ROBBINS he struggles of 2020 hit Alaskan outfitters and lodges square on the nose, but Nanci Morris Lyon is happy to say that Bristol Bay is back. Well, it never really went away, but the ability to make a living sharing its vast resources over the course of a short season was in peril. Now, with people anxious to get out of the house, and realizing that the outdoors have long been the ultimate form of social distancing, Lyon was fully booked throughout the summer of 2021. “We made it through,” she said. “Not everyone did. We were fortunate to have rules in place – you either had to be
While the pandemic has wiped out many comparable businesses, Bear Trail Lodge managed to welcome guests to enjoy some fantastic fishing. One difference for 2021 was the lodge wasn’t able to host essentially any visitors from outside the U.S., which generally represents between 15 and 20 percent of their guests. (BEAR TRAIL LODGE)
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vaccinated or get a negative test within 72 hours. Everybody complied.” “I am no longer touch and go,” she added, referring to the 2020 feeling that finances were precarious and might not get better. “But I do need one more year to be sure. Fortunately, people are anxious to be out of the house. As far as bookings for next year, we’re far ahead of where we were at this time last year, which is far better than the year before.” Indeed, though there’s still work to be done, outdoor recreation received a huge boost during the pandemic. While travel enterprises have clearly suffered, Alaska has split the difference: It’s exotic, but within the country and readily accessible.
2021 SEASON IN REVIEW
Fortunately for Lyon and the other guest-dependent businesses in the area, the one thing that remained consistent was the splendor and prolific nature of Bristol Bay’s natural resources. Several of the salmon runs on the Naknek and surrounding rivers were “the best in sev-
eral years,” which led Lyon to conclude that “it was a good year to be in Alaska.” While the ongoing pandemic was a constant presence whether mentioned or not, Lyon chose not to make it an overwhelming presence of guests’ visits. “It’s a sensitive topic,” she admitted. “We respect everyone’s opinions, and we do our best to accommodate them, even if they differ from our own.” Once inside the bubble of the lodge, the strict protocols that characterized her limited 2020 traffic (Alaska Sporting Journal, September 2020) were generally kept in place but loosened where appropriate, per guests’ desires. The enhanced cleaning and hygiene measures were still utilized, but unlike last year – when each group ate separately – now guests and staff could mingle or sequester, whichever made them feel more comfortable. Similarly, whereas previously masked and gloved staff doled out appetizers and drinks, there was now more freedom for self-service, although the offer still stood to stand apart.
While the restrictions from the previous season were loosened at the request of guests, it’s still been a challenge for Alaska lodges to safely house anglers wanting to experience the world-class fishing Bristol Bay offers. But there’s hope for better days ahead. “As far as bookings for next year, we’re far ahead of where we were at this time last year, which is far better than the year before,” Lyon says. (BEAR TRAIL LODGE)
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Nevertheless, despite maximizing guests’ autonomy, Lyon realizes that she was lucky. “Several other lodges were either temporarily or permanently shut, even though I suspect they had the same regulations in place. It felt like we were living in a bubble.”
WHAT CHANGED?
In a typical year, approximately 15 to 20 percent of Bear Trail Lodge’s clientele comes from abroad. This year, despite a continuously full house, “It was almost exclusively U.S. citizens,” Lyon said. “We had just about nobody from a foreign country.” What also changed was visitors’ preferences for when to come and what to do, whether they were first-timers or repeat guests. Instead of fixating on particular weeks or particular runs of fish, most just ached to get out of the house. ‘“Just get me on a trip,”’ Lyon recalled them saying, ‘“I’ll fish for whatever’s biting.”’ She also said that while most of her clientele continued to focus on angling, she had an unprecedented high demand
The outstanding salmon fishing in local rivers provided plenty of thrills for visitors who were none too selective about hitting specific runs. ‘“Just get me on a trip,’” Lyon recalled several guests mentioning. ‘“I’ll fish for whatever’s biting.’” (BEAR TRAIL LODGE)
for ecotourism. “I was inundated with calls about Brooks Falls excursions.” Despite the overall positive attitude of both guests and staff, staffing challenges persisted. Lyon prides herself on retaining key staff members year after year. It’s not necessarily easy to replace missing or departing staff members for skilled positions in any scenario, but particularly in her semi-remote location, this year she experienced new hurdles. “I did lose a couple of older staff members,” she said. “They simply weren’t comfortable with the situation. But despite that loss it was one of the best crews I’ve ever had. The other weird thing was that two people accepted positions and never showed up. That happened to other lodges, too. It was a big issue for everybody – we were all busy and also short staffed.” Fortunately, most of Lyon’s staff have already committed to coming back next year. 44
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WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD? There is a friendly rivalry amongst the Alaskan lodges, especially those near one another, because they are essentially competing for an overlapping set of customers. Nevertheless, the struggles of 2020 led them to band together in a way that hadn’t previously been seen. “COVID brought us together quicker in a lot of ways,” Lyon said. “We realized that we have more power as one big voice versus multiple voices. We all give each other well-deserved respect. We do it for the good of the industry and the resources.” Nowhere was that seen more clearly than in response to the Pebble Mine project, where not only did the various recreational entities come together, but they joined tightly with commercial fishermen to oppose the mine. The proposed project has risen from the dead on several occasions, and now once again it appears to be on its last legs.
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“We’re not out of the woods, but we’re close,” Lyon said. “It’s like we’ve been in a prison cell and now we’re finally getting some fresh air. We’ve just got to get the legislation in place.” That’s good news for a region that has struggled to keep alive a “normal” that included the world’s greatest run of sockeye salmon, but it will require a continuing vigilance – both on land and in the water – to expose future generations to the glory of America’s greatest wilderness. Nanci Morris Lyon is ready to address that challenge head-on, as she’s addressed all those that have come before. ASJ Editor’s note: For more on Bear Trail Lodge, check out its website at beartraillodge.com or call (907) 246-2327. Author Pete Robbins is an outdoor writer based in Vienna, Virginia. He and his wife Hanna share their outdoor adventures and offer tips for anglers at their website, halfpastfirstcast.com.
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FISHING THE ‘VALLEY OF THE GIANTS’ NEW BOOK CHRONICLES SOME OF KODIAK-BASED COAST GUARDSMAN’S MOST EPIC TRIPS FOR BARN DOOR AND CHICKEN HALIBUT
Editor’s note: Catching massive saltwater fish has always been a part of Conor Sullivan’s fishing cosmos. From one coast – Massachusetts’s famed tuna fishing port of Gloucester – to the other – Alaska’s halibut waters – Sullivan has experienced some epic adventures with his rods and reels. A U.S. Coast Guard Academy alum, the sea has played a major role in his life, and that includes his Alaska days from his time on Kodiak Island, where he had plenty of opportunities to battle the Last Frontier’s biggest swimming sea life. “It stirs emotions of big catches and danger to every angler and it is never lost on me how amazing it is to live here,” Sullivan, an occasional Alaska Sporting Journal correspondent, said for a promo to his new book, which chronicles some of his epic fishing trips. That includes his matchups with Alaska’s famed halibut in waters he calls the “Valley of the Giants.” The following is an excerpt from Fishing the Wild Waters: An Angler’s Search for Peace and Adventure in the Wilderness, by Conor Sullivan and published by Pegasus Books Ltd. BY CONOR SULLIVAN
I
n June of my first summer on Kodiak, my brothers flew up for a week to experience Alaska firsthand. I had wintered over and cut my teeth on nearly a full year of fishing; I was anxious to share that knowledge with them. I had visions of putting on a clinic, piles of red salmon and carpets of halibut. What we all learned was that fish don’t jump onto your hook anywhere, even in Alaska. Don’t believe the brochures.
FISHING LOG: 25 June
Halibut with Rory and Pat. One small chicken at buoy 3, drifting on a jig. Tried a bunch of spots – all sucked. I have had good trips and bad trips while in Kodiak, but this was the only time I was ever outfished. I came back to the docks and saw rookies with halibut, 46
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but we only brought back a single small halibut and a black bass, neither of which probably should have been retained in the first place. To put it simply, I was pissed. There is nothing worse than coming up short of expectations, especially when your brothers come to visit with very high expectations. As Josh Boyle tells me, “Always try to learn something from being in the field.” I took away a few hard lessons. First, don’t chase other people’s intel. I went way out of my preferred area to pursue someone else’s numbers. Ironically, the area I went to was essentially the most heavily fished area of Kodiak – dumb mistake. Second, be patient. I was in such a rush to put on a show that I moved before my bait could do its thing and draw in some fish. By week’s end I had
Author Conor Sullivan with a 180-pound Alaska halibut. While stationed on Kodiak Island as the U.S. Coast Guard’s commanding officer of the North Pacific Regional Fisheries Training Center, he had plenty of time to fish what he dubbed the Valley of the Giants, as well as insanely close-in waters for flatties. (CONOR SULLIVAN/
FISHING THE WILD WATERS)
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one more shot at getting them on some fish before they went home with mostly empty fish boxes. It was game time.
FISHING LOG: 28 June
Sometimes, it’s not always the biggest ’buts that make the best eating. Sullivan says fish between 40 and 90 pounds are the “perfect eating size.” (CONOR SULLIVAN/FISHING THE WILD WATERS)
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Eight halibut to 80 pounds, including a couple of 50s. Location: Valley of the Giants, 133 feet. Good incoming tide. All on bait. I fished a spot I nicknamed “Valley of the Giants,” a series of gravel hills that had yet to let me down. We got to our numbers and dropped the anchor just upcurrent of the humps. By anchoring ahead of the spot, I could either ease the anchor out to get closer, or the scent of our baits would draw the fish up to us. At first we had no action. I knew this spot would produce if I just gave it a little time, so I patiently waited. When Rory’s rod doubled over with a good fish, I breathed a sigh of relief. The fish were here and, as he battled an estimated 50-pound fish, I knew they both would at least be bringing some fish back home. The pressure was off. From there we had a steady pick of 40to 50-pound fish. Rory and I had caught our limits, but Pat had one fish to go. It was getting a little later in the day and it was time to start thinking about wrapping it up. Not long after, Pat’s rod doubled over. Big fish seem to know which hook is attached to the smallest rod. Of course Pat was using my lightweight salmon trolling rod, more suitable for downrigger trolling than a Pacific halibut. That Shimano Trevala rod doubled over and then some as the line came tight. Pat was in for a battle and that little Avet SX reel was earning its keep. I can reasonably gauge the size of a halibut by the number of runs. One small run, the fish is under 25 pounds; two solid runs, 30 to 50 pounds; and three-plus big runs means the halibut is closer to three digits. As Pat’s fish took its third big run, I knew this was a good fish. He could barely put enough pressure on the fish with the light tackle but was slowly gaining line. Knowing this was a big fish on light line, we rigged up the harpoon once again. This was the safest way of landing a larger halibut. It also prevented knife fights or having the fish going nuts once brought into the boat. It came up smooth after that third run, and Rory drilled it
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with the harpoon. The fish made a short run, but with the harpoon line firmly attached to it, we knew we had secured its capture. With our last fish boated, we finished a fantastic trip. None of our catches that day were giants, but we caught our limit of perfect eating-sized halibut, each one between 40 and 90 pounds. Lesson learned: make your own intel. By the time you get word that a hot bite is going on, it’s probably over. Be the one who makes the fishing reports, because once the sun sets, the reset button is hit.
The key for halibut fishing is location. Take the time to find an area that seems productive and provides the right conditions for this ambush predator to set their trap. If you have confidence in an area, do not give up on it without investing a bit of time. Also, if you nicknamed an area the Valley of the Giants, start there.
FISHING LOG: 03 July
One 180-pound halibut. Waypoint number 41 in 74 feet of water at Sullivan’s Rocks. The tide was hauling ass. Spin-n-glo squid
As Sullivan can attest, there is no easy way to hoist a large halibut. “I can reasonably gauge the size of a halibut by the number of runs,” he writes. “One small run, the fish is under 25 pounds; two solid runs, 30 to 50 pounds; and three-plus big runs means the halibut is closer to three digits.” (CONOR SULLIVAN/ FISHING THE WILD WATERS)
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skirt and squid. One bite. Weather sucked, cloudy and cold. The summer after my brothers’ first visit, my neighbor Dave asked if I would take him and his son, who was visiting from South Carolina, out fishing. The weather was pretty nasty, but we decided to stick our noses out. After fishing the Valley of the Giants for a few hours in some snotty seas without any action, I was confident that they were not home and it was time to move on. Panning through the chart like a football coach looking for a fourth-and-1
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play, I found what I wanted: another raised gravel bottom spot adjacent to a rock pile that was also out of the building sea state. This spot had produced for me in the past. It was a slow bite but often a big one. After motoring over and dropping the anchor, I explained that this spot would produce, but it was a matter of being patient and letting our baits and the current work their magic. An hour later, our patience paid off. The current picked up. Not long after, I felt the distinctive “rat tat tat” of a halibut. I gave the fish a rod’s length of slack and slowly lifted up. It felt like I hooked into the drain plug of the ocean itself. It didn’t give at all, and the rod came to a stop halfway up on the swing. I could tell it was a fish of consequence, and it started taking line. I handed the rod off to Dave’s 20-something-year-old son to let him feel the weight of a real halibut. I was surprised he couldn’t gain ground on the fish. I was using a Penn International 12, which has a two-speed reel setting, and after watching him struggle, I leaned over and dropped the reel into low gear, the first time I needed to do that on a halibut. After a good amount of winching, a brown rug appeared off the starboard
“Fishing is a vehicle which connects those who practice it with a reverence to a world beyond the one that humans created,” Sullivan says. (CONOR SULLIVAN/
FISHING THE WILD WATERS)
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ALL ABOUT HALIBUT
T
he antithesis of a precise fly presentation to a lone salmon is to fish for halibut. A fish with a nickname of “barn door” doesn’t worry much about presentation. Halibut fishing in Alaska is wild. Ninety percent of your trip will be uneventful and the other 10 percent will be about the same level as a bare-knuckle bear fight. They are big, delicious and at times dangerous to pursue. While salmon often require a degree of finesse and psychological smarts to catch, halibut require heavier tackle, a stout stomach and patience. Although they can reach weights of over 400 pounds, most caught by dayboat fishermen are under 50 pounds, which are often referred to as “chickens.” They are the ideal eating size. While there may be glory in landing a monster fish, I will take a smaller one for the freezer anytime. A big halibut has tougher meat than a smaller one, much like an old bull compared to veal. Typically, they are not fussy about line diameter nor hook size, and they just do not take kindly to being winched off the bottom and placed on the deck of a boat. Tightly managed at the state, federal and international level, halibut are one of the main economic drivers for fishing in Alaska. The key to halibut fishing is finding them, and not being in the right spots can make for a very slow day. CS
quarter. I drilled the fish as hard as I could with the harpoon, but it didn’t punch through the other side; it was a thick fish. With a gaff and help, the three of us slid a barn door over the gunwale. It was a beast! We had nowhere to put it and knew it was time to head home. The awful ride back to the dock through those big seas didn’t dampen our morale. Back at the dock, the fish topped out at 185 pounds and remains the biggest halibut I have landed on rod and reel.
ONE CONSISTENT FACT I have learned across all fisheries is that you don’t have to go far to catch big fish. However, shore fishermen will always seek to make the farthest cast, and boat fishermen will seek to run the farthest offshore. The general belief is that the fish are always “way out there,” and to be successful, you have to go as far as possible out to sea. The fish must know this, because I keep finding areas very close to the dock that hold very large fish. Having found success in Gloucester catching whale cod on inshore spots, I had a hunch that halibut might be the same. My friend and fellow Coastie Jim Morrow, aka “Earthworm Jim,” and I had plans to head out one late summer day to chase halibut in the Valley of the Giants. As with many North Pacific summer days, the difference between the air and ocean temperatures caused a sizable fog
DECEMBER 2021 | aksportingjournal.com
bank to form just off the coast. With both of us being paid in part for our ability to assess risk, we decided to forgo the offshore run and try some inshore spots not far off the beach, where the visibility was still good. We recalibrated our expectations: If we caught fish, it was a win, and if we didn’t, well, that’s what we expected to happen, and we would chalk it up to being in the wrong location. Sometimes, though, forcing yourself to try somewhere new pays off.
FISHING LOG: 25 July
Two halibut, five total at the boat. Fished with Earthworm Jim, foggy. 70 feet of water. Incoming tide, big fish was 70 pounds. Used herring. Pretty awesome. By this point in the season, the pink salmon were in full swing and they began to ascend nearly all rivers by the thousands. This much feed could not have gone unnoticed, so we searched and found a spot in proximity to pink salmon areas that also had some nice bottom contour changes — a place where an ambush hunter might want to lie in wait. It was so close to the beach that it seemed we should have left the boat on the shore and used pool inflatables instead. Other boats would pass us wondering if we had broken down, decided to go for a swim, or were just clueless. We watched
people walking down the shore with their dogs looking at us. Dropping the anchor, we sat waiting for the scent of our baits to work its magic. Sure enough, an hour later Jim took a strike and landed a great-looking halibut in the 70-pound range. This was awesome. It was not a monster, but with the size of the pink salmon, I had a hunch larger halibut were in the area. We were onto something, and more research was needed.
FISHING LOG: 27 July
One 135-pound halibut, plus a 65-pounder and 90-pounder with Father John. Fished all day in 78 feet of water. Sunny and hot, moving tide is needed. Dropped two big fish as well. I returned to try it out during a local fishing tournament I had organized through work — no prizes or money, just for bragging rights and maybe a homemade trophy. But I had a reputation to uphold. The weather was unusually beautiful on this Friday in August as we all set off in our various boats to ply the waters for halibut. Resisting the urge to run miles off to
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undiscovered rocky pinnacles, I brought the boat instead to my new inshore spot. Perched alongside coastal hikers and dog walkers, it looked more like a fishing spot you would choose if you were afraid of the water, rather than a spot for a trophy hunter. It was a place where you could walk back ashore if things went sideways. My rod doubling over changed that thought rather quickly. Being so shallow, the large halibut was forced to run horizontal instead of vertical and I laughed with excitement as line peeled off my reel. On this trip, I took with me my friend and local priest, Father John. He had heard stories of Alaska’s big halibut and wanted to experience it firsthand. Perhaps he brought with him a little divine intervention as well. The big fish exhausted itself on its impression runs and it came to the surface vertically, making harpooning it more of a challenge. But with a sideways thrust, the bronze dart passed through the fish and locked itself against the other side. It was not getting away now, despite one more adrenaline-fueled sprint. The fish
DECEMBER 2021 | aksportingjournal.com
was big, weighing in at 135 pounds. The lines went back down, and it didn’t take long for the rod to once again double over. After another valiant fight, we landed a 90-pound fish. Soon after, a 65-pounder joined the cooler. Despite not filling our limits, we had more than enough fish to fill the freezer and also had a fair amount of work ahead of us in processing, so we decided to call it a trip. The weigh-in station was pretty quiet when I hoisted the larger halibut onto the scales, beating its nearest competitor, our other fish, by 45 pounds. Either big fish know where the boat ramp is and hide there to avoid being caught by anglers hell bent on getting way out there, or, more likely, there is no correlation between distance traveled and fish caught. Moral of the story: fish local. ASJ Editor’s note: You can order the book starting Dec. 7 at simonandschuster. com/books/Fishing-the-Wild-Waters/ Conor-Sullivan/9781643138312. Follow author Conor Sullivan on Instagram (@ sullivanlures).
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WILD SOLO EXPED ON THE SAVONOS BY BJORN DIHLE
B
ristol Bay might be most famous for having the world’s biggest run of sockeye salmon and its unparalleled fishing opportunities. But the region’s watersheds also have incredible adventure opportunities – everything from day trips to epic Bilbo Baggins-type journeys. A while back, my friend Glen Aronson was taking time off from work and decided to do the Savonoski Loop, an 80-mile lake and river paddle that begins and ends at Brooks Camp on Naknek Lake. It’s named for Savonoski Village, a Native settlement at the mouth of the Savonoski River that was destroyed in a 1912 eruption that formed the volcano Novarupta and Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Considered the biggest eruption of the 20th century, Novarupta unleashed 3 cubic miles of magma and ash and covered more than 3,000 square miles in ash more than a foot deep. “From what I had heard, the Savonoski Loop seemed like a totally manageable solo trip,” said Glen, who had bought an Alpacka packraft the spring before. Weighing just 6 pounds and packing down to the size of a sleeping bag, packrafts are a game changer when it comes to backcountry wanders. Glen took the time to learn the basics of packrafting. He started with practicing capsizing and getting back into his packraft on a lake; paddling rivers close to town; and paddling the Tlikikila River, which drains into Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. He even took a whitewater packrafting
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class. He was ready for his Savonoski Loop adventure.
IN JULY, GLEN SET set out for his journey. He flew from King Salmon to Brooks Camp, where upwards of 300 people visit during peak season to photograph brown bears at Brooks Falls. “The place was at capacity. It was this strange improvised human settlement with bear highways running through it,” Glen said. A ranger immediately gave him a bear safety talk. Afterward Glen asked if they had any information on the Savonoski Loop. The ranger told him, “Nope, but a guy died a couple weeks ago on nearby American Creek because the water is super high.” Glen, surrounded by incredulous, staring tourists, paddled away that afternoon. Naknek Lake is notorious for dangerous winds that come on suddenly. The wind picked up soon after Glen began a 2-mile crossing and blew him off course. He made a point to camp on small islands and follow strict protocol with his food to avoid attracting bears. The days turned into a simple routine. He saw neither people nor wildlife as he paddled to Fure’s Cabin, where there’s a 1.5-mile portage trail to Lake Grosvenor. “Lake Grosvenor is like a fjord and has a darker energy. The mountains seem taller and the woods feel darker,” Glen said. He made camp on a bank on the southern end of Lake Grosvenor, near where it meets the Savonoski River. The
DECEMBER 2021 | aksportingjournal.com
EDITION OSKI LOOP
Some Bristol Bay visitors and locals don’t just do the salmon fishing thing in this gorgeous and rugged corner of Alaska. Glen Aronson took on the Savonoski Loop, an 80-mile thrill ride of paddling, portage hiking, wind navigating and bear dodging. (GLEN ARONSON) aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2021
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The loop begins innocently enough at Brooks Falls, where wildlife lovers spy the area’s famous brown bears that gorge on salmon. “Glen, surrounded by incredulous, staring tourists, paddled away that afternoon,” author Bjorn Dihle writes. (GLEN ARONSON)
forecast called for a lot of rain to begin the following night. Knowing how high the water already was, Glen was eager to be done with the river before it got any bigger. That night he awoke to the sound of something big coming up to his tent. Instead of making contact, the animal leapt off the bank and cannonballed into the lake.
THE FOLLOWING MORNING WAS beautiful but extremely windy. The blue sky was 58
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hidden by blowing ash left over from Novarupta. When Glen paddled out onto the ash-filled Savonoski River, the chaos he met was more than anything he was prepared for. “The river was bleeding into the forest. Sweepers and strainers were everywhere. Currents were super strong and very conflicted, and I couldn’t read them,” Glen said. “I don’t spend my life doing this sort of stuff. I sit at a desk. I’m used to being able to say, ‘OK, this can stop now. I can press
DECEMBER 2021 | aksportingjournal.com
a button to abort.’” After 10 minutes of extreme panic, Glen fell into a rhythm. There are no real rapids on the 12 miles of the Savonoski River, but even at mid or low water it’s not easy to paddle with its powerful currents and obstacles of logs and debris. On the lower half of the river, the paddling began to mellow. Brown bears fishing for salmon began to appear. Glen, scared he was not making smart decisions, decided to take a break on a tiny island. As he neared the shore, a big
bear stepped out on the only place he could land his packraft. At the mouth of the river, where it drains into the Iluk Arm of Naknek Lake, there seemed to be bears fishing everywhere. It’s common to see 20 to 30 bears on this section of river, often at close distances. Glen carefully paddled by, noting that the bears were only interested in salmon. At a “safe” camp spot covered in bear scat, he made a big fire and, full of self-described male energy, celebrated being alive. AFTER BEING OUT FOR a week, Glen made it back to Brooks Camp feeling like a lone survivor of a crazy adventure. Thankfully, the lodge had plenty of beer. He spent a few days decompressing and seeing what Brooks Falls and nearby Valley of
Aronson paddles his 6-pound packraft – much of the cargo on the kits are stored on the bow – across Grosvenor Lake, where he bedded down for the night and heard some commotion from a local critter that decided to take an evening dip in the lake. (GLEN ARONSON)
The Savonoski Loop is no stranger to fire. The Native Village of Savonoski was destroyed in a devastating 1912 eruption of the Novarupta volcano. The surrounding region is also known as the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. (GLEN ARONSON) 60
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DECEMBER 2021 | aksportingjournal.com
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When he wasn’t working hard to paddle through the currents and avoid bears busy scooping up salmon in the ash-filled waterways, a pleasant Naknek Lake sunset and dry land were cathartic for the adventurer. (GLEN ARONSON)
Ten Thousand Smokes were all about. “I don’t think the Savonoski Loop gets done much,” Glen said, offering some final thoughts. “I’m glad I did it. For sure, I wouldn’t do it alone again. I’ve thought a lot about that day on the river. If I did it 100 times, I’m convinced that 10 times I wouldn’t have made it. Don’t trust the guidebooks. The potential to have a real screwup is high.” ASJ Editor’s note: Pride of Bristol Bay is a free column written by Bjorn Dihle and provided by its namesake, a fishermandirect seafood marketer that specializes in delivering the highest quality of sustainably caught wild salmon from Bristol Bay to your doorstep. Go to prideofbristolbay.com for more information.
Of his more difficult than expected solo trip through the loop, Aronson offered a warning to other adrenaline seekers. “If I did it 100 times, I’m convinced that 10 times I wouldn’t have made it. Don’t trust the guidebooks. The potential to have a real screwup is high.” (GLEN ARONSON) 62
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DECEMBER 2021 | aksportingjournal.com
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