FISHING • HUNTING • ADVENTURE
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Volume 12 • Issue 10 www.aksportingjournal.com PUBLISHER James R. Baker
INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER Lois Sanborn
GENERAL MANAGER John Rusnak
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES media@media-inc.com
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott EDITOR Chris Cocoles WRITERS Paul D. Atkins, Bjorn Dihle, Tony Ensalaco, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Brian Kelly, Brian Watkins SALES MANAGER Paul Yarnold ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mamie Griffin, Jim Klark, Mike Smith DESIGNER Lesley-Anne Slisko-Cooper PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker WEB DEVELOPMENT/INBOUND MARKETING Jon Hines ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Katie Aumann
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MEDIA INDEX PUBLISHING GROUP 14240 Interurban Ave South • Suite 190 Tukwila, WA 98168 (206) 382-9220 • Fax (206) 382-9437 media@media-inc.com • www.media-inc.com CORRESPONDENCE Twitter @AKSportJourn Facebook.com/alaskasportingjournal Email ccocoles@media-inc.com ON THE COVER Pennsylvanian Brian Kelly and a buddy had a fishing trip to Alaska to follow through on, and they successfully fulfilled the safety protocol requirements and reached Juneau, where they enjoyed the silver salmon fishing. (BRIAN KELLY)
CONTENTS
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VOLUME 12 • ISSUE 10
ADVENTURE IS HIS GAME
Bjørn Olson is a modern-day explorer-advocate. When he and a fellow adventure seeker wanted to traverse the northern shore of Lake Iliamna – a 77-mile-long body of water – the pair did it via fatbikes and packrafts. Bjorn Dihle’s latest Pride of Bristol Bay column details that epic trip and other facets of Olson’s life, as well as his thoughts on the recent denial of a key Pebble Mine permit.
(BJØRN OLSON)
FEATURES 17
‘EXTREME CHALLENGE’: HUNTING INTERIOR BRUINS WITH A BOW
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UNFINISHED BUSINESS
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HOOKNOSES AND NASAL SWABS Pennsylvania angler Brian Kelly is a regular visitor to Alaska, but his 2020 trip to Juneau to tempt silver salmon was unlike any he’d ever had to plan for before. Indeed, the COVID-19 pandemic kept away many would-be travelers. But Kelly proved it can be done if you take the proper safety precautions. He offers a playby-play of the crosscountry steps he took – as well as the challenges of filling his cooler with tasty coho while fishing the stormy Gastineau Channel.
Brian Watkins has hunted plenty of brown bears in Southcentral Alaska, but he knew that heading north with his bow to match wits with the Arctic version of the state’s apex predator – the ones that don’t have the luxury of feeding on plentiful salmon – would provide a whole new set of challenges and nervous moments. Find out how he fared in the unforgiving north. Our longtime Arctic sportsman Paul Atkins will soon move with his family from Kotzebue back to his home state of Oklahoma. But despite over two decades of memorable hunting experiences in the Last Frontier, there are species Atkins has unfinished business with, leading him to draw up a dream hunting wish list for his last days in the north – and seasons ahead in the Lower 48. ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 13 15 35 53
The Editor’s Note: A forgettable one-year anniversary Outdoor calendar From Field to Fire: Field-dressing tips for when darkness falls Touring an angler’s fish-infused home decor
Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Inc. Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Inc. Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $49.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Inc. Publishing Group, 14240 Interurban Ave South, Suite 190, Tukwila, WA 98168 or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues may be ordered at Media Inc. Publishing Group, subject to availability, at the cost of $5 plus shipping. Copyright © 2021 Media Inc. Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A. 10
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EDITOR’S NOTE
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ne year. That’s it. One year ago this month. For those of us – and I’m as guilty as anyone – who complained about how complicated life was and how annoying some of the daily obstacles we faced could be, I wish someone would have more often reminded me years before how easy we actually had it. “Son, you haven’t experienced anything like you’re about to.” And as the one-year anniversary of COVID-19 essentially shutting down the world at times is upon us, maybe we should be grateful for what we still do have. In this country alone, half a million lives have been lost to the virus as of this writing, with the death toll likely to rise higher, even as vaccinations finally begin to offer some protection and we hope for an eventual return to normalcy – if such a thing really exists anymore. But we have made do when and where we can to feel normal. Correspondent Brian Kelly described the steps he had to take to stay safe and travel from his home in Pennsylvania to Alaska for a silver salmon fishing trip out of Juneau (page 42). Kudos to Kelly and those who went through the process of securing a negative test and following the masking and social distancing guidelines to protect not just themselves but others along the way, as well as those in Alaska. My early 2021 was supposed to include an Australia trip to Melbourne to watch the Australian Open tennis tournament and visit other sites Down Under. Those plans were obviously squashed. Kelly said he plans to go back to Alaska in September. I am already looking forward to a possible Aussie do-over in 2022, while some friends and I recently had a group text exchange and vowed to go fishing together somewhere whenever it felt safe enough to go. Who knows, maybe we’ll join Kelly for silvers. In March 2020 we flew to Hawaii and went fishing in the Pacific. By the time we landed back home everything changed. This is not a one-year anniversary I’ll celebrate in March. -Chris Cocoles
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It wasn’t easy, but Brian Kelly managed to cross all the t’s and dot all the i’s to get to Alaska for his annual Juneau-area fishing trip. Traveling – and basically doing anything – hasn’t been easy during the COVID-19 pandemic that is essentially turning 1 year old this month. (BRIAN KELLY) aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2021
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March 6 is the anticipated date for the beginning of Alaska’s famed sled dog race, the Iditarod. Downtown Anchorage is the traditional starting point for the race.
(PETTY OFFICER FIRST CLASS DAVID MOSELY/U.S. COAST GUARD)
OUTDOOR CALENDAR* March 1 March 6 March 15 March 15 March 15 March 15 April 17
Spring bison hunting season opens in Game Management Unit 19 (McGrath) Expected start of Iditarod race (iditarod.com)
Spring brown bear season opens in GMU 1 (Southeast Mainland) Resident spring brown bear hunting season opens in GMU 3 (Petersburg/Wrangell) Spring brown bear season opens in GMU 4 (Admiralty-Baranof-Chichagof Islands) Nonresident moose season ends in GMU 18 (Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta) Homer Winter King Salmon Derby (homerwinterking.com) May 22 Start of Valdez Halibut Derby (valdezfishderbies.com) June 4-5 Homer Halibut Derby (homeralaska.org/homer- halibut-tournament))
2021 SPORTSMAN’S SHOWS March 11-14 Central Oregon Sportsmen’s Show, Deschutes County Fair & Expo Center, Redmond, Oregon (otshows.com) March 24-28 Pacific Northwest Sportsmen’s Show, Expo Center, Portland (otshows.com) April 9-11 Mat-Su Outdoorsman Show, Alaska State Fairgrounds, Palmer (matsuoutdoorsmanshow.com) CANCELLED FOR 2021 Yukon Quest sled dog race, Fairbanks (yukonquest.com); Great Alaskan Sportsman Show (greatalaskasportsmanshow.com); Fairbanks Outdoor Show (carlson-center.com/outdoor-show) Note: Check with local contacts over events that could be postponed/ cancelled due to COVID-19 pandemic aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2021
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‘EXTREME CHALLENGE’ BOWHUNTING FOR AN ARCTIC GRIZZLY PROVES CHALLENGING, DANGEROUS AND EXHILARATING BY BRIAN WATKINS
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’ve written articles before about hunting bears in Southcentral Alaska and I’ve learned a lot about those animals. The bears are more afraid of you than you are them. They avoid people at all costs. Of course, you hear of attacks and maulings. But those attacks are circumstantial and often involve bad timing. Either someone gets too close to cubs or its around denning season. Maybe a bear is fresh out of hibernation or it’s trying to ensure a full tummy before the long winter nap. And sometimes a person will stumble into a fresh or buried kill and unfortunately be mauled. But this past year I wanted to go after a more aggressive bear: an Arctic grizzly. They’re more hostile than coastal brown bears, which I attribute to relatively fewer food sources. Coastal bears get fat on good salmon runs and plentiful foliage to browse. Arctic bruins go longer between meals.
AN ARCHERY EXPERIENCE We decided to use a bow for this hunt. It’s exponentially more dangerous, but as I’ve said before, it is a bigger challenge, which is the whole point. That makes it more desirable to me.
Many coastal Alaska brown bears can feast on salmon runs in the state’s river systems, but author Brian Watkins decided to pursue an Arctic bruin, which can’t rely on plentiful fish to eat. That makes these grizzlies a little more irritable and hungrier, plus a bit terrifying to hunt. (ZAC RICHTER/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE)
These grizzlies pay close attention to their surroundings. Having fewer meals forces them in keep in tune with what’s available on the land. Their senses of smell, hearing and sight are on full alert. To get within bow range of these magnificent creatures is an extreme challenge.
FIRST SIGHTING We spotted a bear foraging along a river bottom. He was headed opposite of our direction and into the wind. It seemed like an impossible stalk as we tried to cut him off. We had to get in front of him, but unfortunately that meant being upwind.
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We decided to give it a shot, even though the odds were against us. We put a small knoll between us and the bear and sprinted about a quarter-mile ahead of the bear. His path was obvious, as he kept foraging in one direction. Being naïve, we figured we could skirt the outside of the wind direction and slowly parallel him as he grazed.
It worked well until he changed his course by a mere 100 yards. He shifted his direction slightly more into our scent path. As he did, we watched him put his nose directly into the air. Busted. Surprisingly, the bear didn’t sprint off. He walked away at a steady pace, but he knew he was the king of the
land. We watched him disappear into the thick willows. Fortunately for us, he changed his course so that he was headed downwind. That meant we had to try and get in front of his path again.
WORKING THE WIND
We were able to make a 2-mile loop and get ahead of where he was headed. We
Watkins loves a good challenge, and this rugged location – not to mention his decision to hunt with a bow – was going to provide it in spades. (BRIAN WATKINS)
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had spent less than an hour glassing when he popped back out. We were going to try the same tactic as before, but this time with the wind in our favor. We were on the bottom of a creek bed when we spotted the bear less than 100 yards away. I took my shoes off to keep quiet and used the willows to hide my movement. We made it to within 30 yards.
A THRILLING FINISH I had to wait for the bear to turn broadside before releasing an arrow. I didn’t make the best shot, but the bear ran straight away from us. He bedded down about 60 yards out. I had to get This remote corner of northern Alaska is also muskox country. (BRIAN WATKINS)
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another arrow in him. He bluff-charged us a couple of times, as he knew what we were. Scared wouldn’t describe the feeling we felt. It was terrifying. The only thing worse than finding a bear in the bushes is a wounded bear in the bushes.
I was able to find a shot angle and put another arrow in the bear’s heart. Seconds later he was dead. We’d accomplished what we set out to do. Hunting Arctic grizzlies is adventureseeking at its best. You’re in the most pristine country while chasing the top
Watkins was a bit spooked when the hit bear bluff-charged him – he called the moment “terrifying” – but like many Alaskan hunters he understands the importance of hunting predators. “Doing so with a bow may be over the top,” he writes, “but it’s what some of us in the hunting world live for.” (BRIAN WATKINS)
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of the food chain. It’s also important to harvest predators, as the sport keeps a healthy predator-to-prey balance. Doing so with a bow may be over the top, but it’s what some of us in the hunting world live for. ASJ
UNFINISHED BUSINESS AS AN ALASKA SPORTSMAN PREPARES TO MOVE SOUTH, HERE’S HIS DREAM HUNT WISH LIST FOR ARCTIC SPECIES AND THOSE IN THE LOWER 48 BY PAUL D. ATKINS
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lk, that’s it! I think it’s time to go and chase some elk. And not just any elk; I’m talking about the big boys, the ones that dreams are made of. The ones that take years to draw the tag. And when you do, you better make it one of those elk that count – like those bulls out West somewhere, say, Montana or Arizona, where those big old Rocky Mountain types like to hang out. “But don’t you have elk in Alaska?” I know we do – Roosevelts – but to be honest, I’ve never hunted elk here. Yes, I’ve seen them on occasion, especially while chasing brown bears on Kodiak Island – more specifically, Afognak and Raspberry Islands – but I’ve never pursued them. I would like to, though, especially after seeing the terrain and habitat they call home. The clearcuts, logging roads and spruce cover, combined with less than harsh weather, would make for an incredible hunt, in my opinion, especially if you’re lucky enough to draw a tag. This all sounds fun, right? However, if I’m being totally honest, elk have never been high on my priority list of animals to pursue, until lately. I don’t know why that’s the case either. All my friends, especially those who live way down south, are addicted to it. They say there’s nothing like it, especially
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on that first cool morning when you hear that first mystical bugle, while standing on a mountain breathing in all that crisp air. They say it’s life-changing and I believe them. I’ve hunted elk twice in my life, so I know because I’ve heard the call. They’re majestic for sure, but they’re not like chasing a moose. And for me personally, there’s just been too many caribou to chase to even think about elk. But, at least for this year, I think elk fits the bill.
ANSWERING A TOUGH QUESTION I saw a social media post recently where someone asked, “What’s everyone hunting this year”? The question was pretty vague, to say the least, but the poster received over 200 replies. The responses included everything from elephants to a new rifle to a new wife. I wanted to type in elk, though I didn’t. But it got me to thinking about what I would really like to do with the remaining days I have here in Alaska before moving back to the Lower 48 later this spring. I know I’ve been lucky – blessed, actually – to live up here. It has allowed me to chase every critter, shoot every critter and eat just about every critter that I’ve brought home. I promise you that it’s been a good time. When I finished my book a month or so ago (Alaska Sporting Journal, Decem-
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Paul D. Atkins (right) will soon be leaving his Alaska hunting grounds, and he has some Last Frontier hunts he still wants to pursue for the first time, and maybe once again in the case of spring bears. “Of all things, I would like to chase spring grizzlies one more time with my best friend Lew (left),” he says. “Our best outings and our best times have been while chasing tracks in the Arctic snow.” (PAUL D. ATKINS) aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2021
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ber 2020), I knew that I would probably never be able to top some of those hunts. Heck, I really wouldn’t want to. I guess that’s why these days I think beyond Alaska and what life may bring once I leave here (hence the elk passage above). I may be retiring and moving on, but believe it or not, there are a few things or animals that have eluded me here in the Last Frontier.
WOLVERINE This is probably the most underrated species here in Alaska, in my opinion. Sure, they’re rare and hard to find, except maybe if you’re a trapper. Those guys seem to gather many throughout the season, and if they’re good at it, they make it look easy. I want a wolverine – always have – but
I imagine those hopes are over. I’ve only ever seen one, but the memory of that morning is still fresh as it was the day it happened. It was 15 years ago and a long way from where I am typing this. We were doing a September fly-out drop hunt for caribou. It was cold the day we landed on that long stretch of river; so cold the water was frozen along the shore and the rocks seemed to be harder than usual as we trudged clumsily up the bank to make camp. We had two tents, warm bags, warm clothes and a continuous fire, but it didn’t seem to break the chill during the week. Caribou were there too, but they were tough to come by. Several other camps dotted the landscape, and it was more like combat hunting than anything else.
“I want to hunt elk, maybe not here in Alaska, but somewhere,” says Atkins, who grew up in Oklahoma. “I need to hear the sound that only they can make, and, to be honest, test my skill against such a formidable opponent.” (PAUL D. ATKINS) 26
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Luckily, we scored after some hard hiking, but it wasn’t easy. On the last morning of that hunt, I had my encounter with the skunk bear, as the wolverine is sometimes called. I got up rather early and gathered water from an icy stream to make coffee. Once that was done, I was sitting on a cooler cooking bacon on the Coleman when I felt like I was being watched. My hunting partner was still buried in his sleeping bag, so I knew it wasn’t him. A bear, maybe? It has happened before, but when I looked over my shoulder, I saw the beast sitting not 15 yards from the fire. He looked like a dog waiting for a treat. The wolverine looked at me and I looked at him. My rifle was leaning against a willow, but by the time I got to it the
game was up and he was headed for the tundra. I remember that big brown tail and that gnarly face peering back at me as he made his exit. It was one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen, almost surreal. It was almost as good as taking him home. Almost.
Atkins has yet to be drawn for a bison tag, despite applying often during his two-plus-decades in Alaska. Maybe someday! (LAURA WHITEHOUSE/USFWS)
BISON There are other game animals that I would like to have taken as well. Bison is one, but as I’ve written about many times before, getting a bison tag has eluded me for the last 22 years. Maybe one day, but it will probably have to be down in the Lower 48 and not in Alaska. I did have a chance once in Montana. I was bowhunting mule deer in September and the guy I was hunting with asked if I would like to hunt buffalo. I jumped at the offer. Bison are only wild in certain places, with certain herds spread out across North America where hunters can take a bull on a tag. However, there are places or ranches that have them and whether they’re wild or not only pertains to how you look at the situation. Yes, these animals that I hunted were fenced in, but if you know anything about For Atkins, there’s nothing better than camping on some river looking for big game. “I cherish those days and am looking forward to more, but maybe in a different place with familiar feelings.” (PAUL D. ATKINS)
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Cutting a wolf track is special, a sign left in the snow that becomes a guessing game: Where did they go and what are they up to? You will probably never catch up to a wolf, but it makes you wonder. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
buffalo, a fence only does so much. We set up a blind, with me and my buddy seated snuggly inside and waiting. The herd finally came, but there were just too many bodies. As you can imagine, chaos ensued. It didn’t allow for a shot, and what I thought would be a slam dunk actually turned into a fiasco. Getting trampled or gored or dragged off in a popup blind wasn’t my idea of fun. Maybe next time.
WOLF I haven’t dealt with much with these predators, but would have liked too. And it’s not that I didn’t try. Wolves are funny creatures, more cunning than anything else and you don’t really hunt wolves on purpose, or I didn’t anyway. You would think that living here I would have been covered up with them, but I haven’t. I can remember every wolf encounter during my time in the Arctic, but I can also count those on one hand. Most of those times were while I was doing something else. We were hunting sheep during subsistence season way north of my Kotzebue
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“The reason I came here all those years ago was to chase caribou. They drew me here and over the years have become a constant in my life,” the author says. “Like people who have deer and elk in their backyard, it was caribou for me. I will miss them, but I’m guessing they will draw me back.” So will all the hunts Atkins wanted to make but hasn’t yet. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
home base. I had just finished eating lunch with my buddies when I decided to glass a ridge behind us. I caught movement of something traveling single file across its edge. I thought at first it was caribou, but when I motioned to my friends to look, they immediately told me they were wolves! We were off and when it was all over, we had six of the seven roped to our sleds. It was a very weird experience. The other time was while on the infamous “kidney stone” hunt (Alaska Sporting Journal, April 2020). While flying to camp we spotted a few from the air. We never ran into them on the hunt, but they were cool to see. The last time we saw wolves was when my hunting partner Lew and I were floating the Kobuk River one summer. We were camped on one side of the river and the pack was cruising the shore on the other. They were howling and going crazy, trying to see if we were something they could eat. It was a long night.
OTHER WISHES Over the years have been plenty of other exciting moments, especially here in the Arctic. Being chased by bears; run over by caribou; reaching down into the cold wa32
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ter of Kotzebue Sound and pulling a giant sheefish from the icy depths and wondering if it was worth my frostbitten hands. Speaking of fish, there is one that I would still like to cross off my wish list. I’ve never caught a king salmon. Crazy, right? Many of my friends have and those who live down along the Kenai do it on a regular basis. But not me. I’ve tried, but no luck. Maybe someday on a return visit. I guess if nothing else I would also like to chase spring bears one more time. Over the years it has become common practice for Lew and I, but with him moving and me alone up here for now I don’t know if it will happen or not. I hope so and if not, then that is OK. We have had enough experiences to last a lifetime. But it would be great to once again cut a track with my friend and find what’s at the end of it. I can still picture each of those past hunts – from what we said, to what we did and, ultimately, the thrill and joy we had with each one of those bears. Many can’t comprehend that, but it’s true. It’s been a lifetime of adventures. I guess in the end everyone has something different on their list. My good friend and fellow writer Scott Haugen found his new joy with hunting wa-
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terfowl. As with all his other outdoor activities, he loves it and could do it all the time if the season allowed. That’s what it’s all about. I look forward to hunting deer as well. Many people back home in Oklahoma can’t believe that I do, especially when they can just step out their back door and practically hunt whitetails from October until January. But as they say up here, you can hunt moose, caribou and bear anytime you want! I know, but sometimes change is a good thing and having a new list or a new quarry is what keeps us going. That goal is something to make us feel alive and keep us wanting more. ASJ Editor’s note: Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and author from Kotzebue, Alaska. He’s had hundreds of articles published on big game hunting in Alaska and throughout North America and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic. His new book Atkins’ Alaska is available at Barnes and Noble, Amazon and everywhere good books are sold. It can also be ordered through his website, paulatkinsoutdoors.com and if you want an autographed copy, contact him at paul@ paulatkinsoutdoors.com. Paul is a regular contributor to Alaska Sporting Journal.
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Black bear hunting in Southeast Alaska this spring? Don’t take the shot unless you’re prepared for wet, cold conditions, and possibly packing out your animal in the dark. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
WHEN DARKNESS FALLS WHAT HUNTERS SHOULD KNOW ABOUT FIELD-DRESSING AN ANIMAL AS DAY TURNS TO NIGHT
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t’s time to start thinking about spring bear hunts. And before you know it, summer and fall big game seasons. Even in Alaska – especially when hunting bears – shot opportunities often come in the waning moments of daylight. The question is, are you prepared to take such shots? Better yet, are you ready to deal with the responsibilities that follow?
FINDING YOUR WAY IN THE DARK If you drop an animal on the spot, field care will be easy, even in the dark. If tracking is involved after taking a shot, you need to be prepared. If the hit animal disappears into the forest, tracking could commence in wet darkness. If you have a headlamp with extra batteries, flagging tape and maybe some reflective tape,
you’re ready to track in these conditions. But that’s not all. Ideally you have a knife, game bags, a pack and some rope. Before even taking the shot, you should be committed to finding the animal and breaking it down in the dark. Why? Because it’s not OK to leave an animal afield overnight, no matter how cold it is – even by Alaska standards.
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FIELD
Black bear is some of the most delicious of all game meat, but hunter/chef Tiffany Haugen reminds you to get your bruin field-dressed and its meat cooled ASAP to ensure the best flavor. (TIFFANY HAUGEN)
TRY THIS MEATY, VERSATILE TOPPER BY TIFFANY HAUGEN
S
pring black bear is some of the tastiest big game meat out there, but proper field care is essential in optimizing its flavor and texture. As soon as a bear is down, immediately remove the hide, bone out the meat and cut away all fat. Get the meat cooling as quickly as possible.
Here’s a tasty recipe that makes a great topper for your salad, rice or pasta, or it can simply be enjoyed as is. This recipe works with any big game, even game birds. 1 pound thinly sliced meat ¼ cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon gochujang or chili sauce One or two green onions 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 tablespoon cold water Thinly slice meat. Thinly slice green onion, separating the white bottoms (to put in the marinade) from the green tops (to use as a garnish). In a medium bowl, mix onions, soy sauce, honey, oil, garlic and chili sauce until thoroughly
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combined. Place meat in marinade and let sit at room temperature 20 to 30 minutes. For longer marinade times – up to four hours – refrigerate until ready to cook. Heat a large skillet on medium-high heat. Add meat and marinade to the skillet and stir-fry until meat reaches desired doneness. Keep this in mind: The longer game meat cooks, the stronger the flavors may become. Remove meat from skillet and set aside. In a small bowl, mix cornstarch with cold water. Add to the skillet and bring sauce to a boil, stirring constantly for about a minute. Serve sauce over meat or add game meat back into the sauce before serving. Garnish with remaining green onion. Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany Haugen's popular book, Cooking Big Game, send a check for $20 to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489, or visit scotthaugen.com for this and other titles.
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FIELD
Before pulling the trigger on any big game animal, there are many factors to consider, not the least of which is the breakdown process. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
The colder the weather gets, the more insulated big game hides become as the fur thickens. This means they hold in heat and don’t allow a carcass to properly cool, even if death is quick. In other words, even in cold conditions animals can quickly spoil from the inside out. Before taking a last-minute shot, promise yourself you’ll quickly recover the animal, then break it down so every bit of meat can get cooling. If it’s a Sitka blacktail deer or a caribou, you can often pack out all the boned meat in one trip. But it may take two trips if the headgear is big and you’re saving the cape for a shoulder mount.
COOLING MEAT STILL IN THE FIELD
If you can’t pack out the meat that night, at least get it quartered and in game bags so it can properly cool. If leaving the backstrap and rib meat on the carcass,
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be sure it’s field-dressed so it can cool from the inside and outside. If removing the backstrap, tenderloins and rib meat, place it in a game bag to cool. Neck meat should quickly be filleted, as the upper neck is made of large bones that hold in heat and quickly results in meat spoilage. When slow-cooked, neck meat is one of the most delicious cuts, so save every ounce; it’s the law. Should you be forced to leave your animal overnight in bear country, hang the game bags so they can’t be reached. If no bears are around, this simplifies things. If there’s snow on the ground and no bears, the meat can be placed in game bags and spread out on the snow to cool. If there’s no snow on the ground, get the meat hanging in the shade so air circulation will cool it.
PREP YOUR PACK Before a hunt, make sure your pack
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comfortably fits with a heavy load, plus ensure that it’s big enough to get the job done. Next, be sure to wear that pack afield when leaving camp for a day of hunting. If your pack frame is different from your day pack, consider strapping the daypack to the frame. This means you can hunt all day and not have to worry about returning to camp to get your pack frame when you do shoot an animal. If covering a lot of ground on foot, consider packing a small spike camp on your back so you can stay the night afield. Should you cripple an animal, spend a few hours tracking it in the dark, and then another hour or more breaking it down, it might be very late before the job is complete. In some situations – when it’s safe from bears and the elements – catching a few hours of sleep afield is an option that saves time and energy.
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FIELD KNOW WHAT YOU’RE GETTING INTO The decision to shoot an animal in
the waning moments of daylight – or really in any situation – comes down to confidence in your ability to make the shot, then handling the responsibilities that follow. The ultimate reward, however, comes in knowing every bit of meat will be salvaged with no waste, which equates to more game in the
freezer and on the table. ASJ Editor’s note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s best-selling book, Hunting The Alaskan High Arctic, visit scotthaugen .com. Follow Scott’s adventures on Instagram and Facebook. Even amid Alaska’s long daylight hours, darkness can quickly close in. Being prepared to meet any and all challenges is crucial to your safety and ensuring meat and hides don’t spoil. Author Scott Haugen was prepared to pack out this brown bear with the aid of a raft. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
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HOOKNOSES A NASAL SWABS
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AND BS
GETTING TO JUNEAU DURING THE PANDEMIC WAS TOUGH FOR A GREAT LAKES ANGLER, BUT WORTH IT FOR SALMON BY BRIAN KELLY
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have been fortunate enough to travel to Alaska every year since 2011. Every trip is filled with eye-opening moments that one just cannot experience in the Lower 48. From dime-bright silvers with sea lice and seal scars to fresh grizzly tracks in tidal mud flats, nothing can match the sensory overload quite like Alaska. Of course, after a few trips, one finds out the hard way about the myriad logistical challenges that come with each journey – from cancelled flights to missing baggage to weather that only Alaska can furnish. Throw in a global pandemic and now the fun really begins!
MY 2020 TRIP PLANNING was set into motion in January, just ahead of the world getting set on its ear by some strange new virus, which was first detected in China. Flights, accommodations and vehicle reservations were all in place
As with many fishing trips to Alaska, Brian Kelly’s August 2020 experience in Juneau was typical – salmon and bad weather. But getting there wasn’t so routine, which included providing a negative COVID-19 test. (BRIAN KELLY)
Getting through the airport boarding process was probably unlike what most travelers have ever experienced. (BRIAN KELLY)
for an early September rendezvous in Juneau for nine days of salt, silvers, fun and games. It was time to start fussing over gear, get rid of some holiday pounds and make the eight months hurry up and go by so I could watch a seal eat my pal’s silver as he was ready to land it. Then came COVID in March; the world came to screeching halt. I must admit, my first thought that came to mind was, “Well; there goes the Alaska trip.” That was about when the travel bans and restrictions started coming in hot and heavy. But then the reality of the situation at home started to sink in as store shelves were being emptied and people were losing their minds over toilet paper! It all seemed so surreal to be driving to a neighboring state to fortify the liquor cabinet, since the wise and all-powerful 44
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governor of Pennsylvania decreed that adult beverage outlets weren’t considered “essential.” What a mess. Once early summer rolled around, it became apparent that travel to Alaska was going to be tricky, but not impossible. Alaska Airlines was still in business and flying to Juneau. Of course, flight schedules were understandably changed a few times to accommodate the massive hole blown in the travel business. But we had a plane and a ticket for said plane; let the games begin!
AS THE STATE OF Alaska began to slowly reopen and allow visitors from the Lower 48, travel protocols were put in place that were meant to protect travelers and locals alike. Those in charge decided to offer travelers into Alaska a few choices: 1) Show up with a negative COVID test
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(PCR nasal swab, the fun one); 2) No test and quarantine for 14 days before venturing out; 3) Get tested at the airport and sit tight until test results come back. We opted for the first choice, which sounded reasonable – until you read the fine print and found out your negative test result must be in hand within 72 hours of your departure. Hmm, sounds easy enough, right? Well … I called my doctor’s office a month ahead of the trip to get a test scheduled and explained my need for the 72-hour turnaround. No guarantees were made, but they said they would do their best to make it happen. Within a couple weeks of departure, my doctor’s office called to inform me that COVID tests were taking three to five days for results, as the labs were at capacity. Wonderful. Now what? Fortunately, I have a good friend back in my home state of Michigan who was soon heading to Anchorage and also facing the same testing dilemma. After making some calls, he found a rural hospital that had an onsite lab that was turning test results around in 24 to 48 hours. Perfect! Since I reside in Erie, Pennsylvania, I usually fly out of Pittsburgh (two hours away) or Buffalo (one and a half hours). The issue I have faced in the past when going that route is the first and last flights are usually a puddle jump from a hub like Chicago, Detroit or New York City, which has led to missed connections, lost baggage and such. For this trip, I decided to make a fourhour drive to Detroit, as I would only have one connection in Seattle. So, after getting a COVID test scheduled at the hospital in Owosso, Michigan, two days ahead of my flight, I kissed the wife and kids goodbye and set off on a trip that would cover a fair swath of the lower peninsula of my home state.
AFTER A SIX-HOUR drive across the flat, dull farm plains of Ohio and Michigan, the first stop in the tour was at my friend’s house. He lived a short distance from the hospital for the test. We had a couple cold Alaskan Ambers that evening while he filled me in on his recent adventures on Alaska’s Russian River, complete with regular interactions with moody brown bears. With COVID keeping most travelers
home, he couldn’t get over the lack of crowds in the Kenai Peninsula, both on the road and on the stream! Would that be the case in Juneau? Time would tell. First things first was getting on with the nasal swab! The test itself was no big deal – 10 seconds of a swab up the sinus cavity and I was on my way – and then we waited to see if I was even going to get off the ground. Leg No. 2 of the journey took me three hours north to hunker down at my father’s house and cross my fingers for a test result. There are things you cannot control on any trip – flight delays and bear encounters come to mind – and that’s something we are accustomed to when travelling to Alaska, but sitting around waiting for a test result was
brutal. After months of planning, it all came down to a simple nose swab. But this is the world we now live in! I didn’t sleep well that night, though I never do before a trip. However, the next morning I was treated to a welcomed email stating that I was COVID-negative. The hospital was spot on with its timing and was gracious enough to provide me with a hard copy, just in case. The last leg of my Michigan tour was a three-hour sprint from northern Michigan to Detroit Metro Airport. It was time to get on that 747 and head to my favorite playground in Alaska. My flight to Seattle was under halffull, which was to be expected. The cabin crew members were very gracious and
courteous, but they had a bit of that dazed look in their eyes as their world and careers had just taken a massive hit. The flight was the smoothest ride I have ever experienced on my many jaunts to the West Coast. Instead of the usual pogo-stick routine as you come down from cruising altitude, it was calm and quiet with clear skies and a lit-up Mount Rainier out the window. In fact, I believe it was the first time I was able to experience the sight of all the peaks around the Seattle area. I took it as an omen of good things to come, as Alaska was now within reach. SeaTac Airport was more open and alive than I had anticipated. I was actually able to sit down at a bar and enjoy a proper adult beverage before
The sight of Washington’s grand Mount Rainier from the plane enroute to a connecting flight via Seattle was the first sign of normalcy for the author during a trip highlighting the new normal for travelers. (BRIAN KELLY)
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departing to Juneau! The flight north was fairly empty and uneventful. But the fun began once I set foot in Juneau’s airport. The powers that be weren’t content with a hard copy or electronic copy of a negative COVID test, so they decided to set up a web portal that one needed to access and login and so on. Initially, there was a fair bit of confusion in the airport as to what to do next or how one could safely exit and get on their way.
Fortunately, the airport staff came around with iPads to assist with accessing this new portal and getting to the proper line for a test check. After fumbling around with this new procedure and getting through the makeshift checkout line, I was pleased to see my checked bag on the carousel! Finally, I was on the ground in Alaska!
WITH MY BACKPACK AND roller bag in tow, I was out of the airport and hiked across For Kelly, scoring some silver salmon to bring home made all the inconveniences of getting to the Last Frontier worthwhile. (BRIAN KELLY)
the parking lot to my hotel for the evening. By this point, I was ready to crash. Driving, flying, portals and a four-hour time change were catching up to me in a hurry. But as I approached the main entrance to the hotel, I noticed a shape in front of the doors that wasn’t human. It was an adult black bear, rummaging through the garbage can next to the doors. Now, I was in no mood to reason with Boo-Boo, so I stopped and yelled “Hey!” at the top of my lungs. This got his attention, and the look on his face was priceless – kind of like the look my German shepherd gives me when I catch him in the trash! I then proceeded to tell the bear to quit acting like some damned raccoon and get the hell out of there so I could get some much-needed sleep! He turned on a dime and sprinted out of the parking lot into the adjoining woods. I calmly walked into the hotel lobby and alerted the manager to the bear issue in front of the property. Without lifting his head or batting an eye, he promptly responded, “Yeah; been like that all summer.” Welcome to Alaska!
THE FISHING ITSELF STARTED slowly the
first couple days, which can be expected on any trip. According to the locals, the fish had shown up in force for a week in mid-August, then disappeared for a week or more and were just starting to show up again. Over the next four days, my fishing partner and I took turns getting the hot hand. We have fished together for over 20 years and things like this can happen, but rarely does one of us go stone cold while the other can do no wrong. It would start and stop like this no matter the time of day. At one point, we just looked at each other and broke out in laughter; what else could we do? Then, it all came together on an incoming tide halfway through the trip and we were doubling up on what seemed like every other cast. It was a morning bite you dream of when you come to Alaska, and all the struggles up to this point just seemed to vanish. But the elation was short lived. I had always heard from Alaskan locals over the years that you don’t want to be here when the weather switch flips in the fall. It can be brutal. And we were
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Overall, the guys had a wonderful time in Juneau, with the hope that the next time will bring more salmon and rainbows. “As I watched my fish boxes get loaded on the plane,” Kelly writes, “all I could think about was getting home to my family and filling that freezer with prime silver fillets … Pandemic be damned.” (BRIAN KELLY)
about to get a firsthand taste. I was awoken ahead of my alarm by what sounded like a freight train. As I pulled back the curtains, I could see the trees bent over and rain coming down in sheets. This was going to be a fun day. But being the stubborn pair that we are, my pal and I geared up and headed out. Neither of us had ever fished in anything quite like this. The wind was howling right down Gastineau Channel, and there was nowhere to hide. The rain was pounding down and driven by 30-plus-knot winds. The strangest part of the day was the small clearing in the sky to the west that we could see but never quite made it to us. We managed to land a few fish in that mess by fishing the biggest pink spinners we had in the box. The water in the channel was getting dirtier by the hour and we finally called it quits well before supper time that afternoon. The storm lasted into the next afternoon and the 48
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runoff dumping into the channel had the water pushing into full-on mud mode. The last couple days of the trip were a bust, as the rain seemed to push the majority of the fish to the hatchery. On the afternoon of my departure, I sat at the Macaulay Hatchery and watched packs of seals hunting the big schools of silvers that were fighting to get into the fish ladder. At one point, a seal was brazen enough to dive into the fish ladder! And yes, he came up with a meal for his efforts. I counted a dozen seal heads cruising around the docks and net pens at the hatchery – all looking for a meal. It was like a Shark Week scene, except with seals feasting on fresh silvers. A massive sea lion came up with a salmon in its mouth and ripped it in half with one chomp of its jaws. These are sights and sounds we do not get to experience in the Great Lakes!
IT WAS AN EXHAUSTING trip, but well worth the extra hassle of the test, portals and protocols. But it was also not the same Juneau of years’ past. No cruise ships
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meant no income for most of the locals, and you could see the hollow look in their eyes as they came out in droves to try and catch some fish for what was surely going to be a long winter. Our favorite bars and restaurants were either closed, at reduced capacity or carry-out only (thank you, Island Pub, for staying open and making the best pizza in Alaska!). I will admit we did break a local ordinance our last night in town and went out for a halibut dinner at a local establishment. Not that this was being enforced, mind you, but we were gently asked at the airport to avoid going to bars or restaurants since we were outsiders. But we were welcome to get groceries and supplies at Fred Meyer or Safeway. An odd feeling surrounded the whole town. However, there was one place that seemed unaffected by it all and that was the laid-back staff at our food processor, Jerry’s Meats. They were happy to see us every day as we brought in our catch to be vacuum-packed and frozen for the trip home. It was good to see the familiar faces
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of those who have taken care of us on previous trips going on about their business, pandemic be damned! As I watched my fish boxes get loaded on the plane, all I could think about was getting home to my family and filling that freezer with prime silver fillets. Mission accomplished! Would I do it again? Absolutely! In fact, as I sit here typing this story in the middle of January, my flight, lodging and minivan – oh, yeah! Best salmon-slayer vehicle ever – are booked for a return engagement the first week of September. Everyone has reasons to go to Alaska. I’m driven by the thought of my grandfathers who were not able to make such a trip. One passed away in the late 1930s from leukemia, and the other escaped Nazi Germany to find freedom and a new life in America. Sadly, he passed away from stomach cancer shortly after retiring. COVID may have changed how we travel and live – for now – but don’t let it stop you from taking that dream trip to Alaska. Life is short, and so is the silver run. Take advantage while you can! ASJ
LET ME SHOW YOU AROUND A TOUR OF AN ANGLER’S HOME UNEARTHS PLENTY OF FISHY SECRETS BY TONY ENSALACO
I
t’s been said that a home reflects the personality of its occupants, and if that is true, then it would be pretty obvious to a visitor that a rabid salmon and steelhead junkie lives at my address. You will get that immediate impression as soon as the house’s façade comes into view. Whenever I give directions to first-time visitors, I will always instruct them to look for the boat in the driveway. I know boats are common, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find another fiberglass Clackacraft drift boat tilted at a 45-degree angle residing in a western suburb of Chicago.
If the garage happens to be open, you will see something even stranger: A Woolridge jet sled sits protected inside, despite the fact that the family’s vehicles are left out, parked in the driveway and exposed to the harsh Midwestern elements. I have to scrape the frost off the car’s windows for five months out of the year, but the sled’s electrical system stays in perfect working order. The boat is surrounded by tackle bags and an extra kicker motor, plus there are six or seven rods lined up laying across the bow – rigged and ready to be deployed.
From first glance, this looks like a typical snowy suburban Chicago home. But a tour of Tony Ensalaco’s crib reveals an obsessed angler, as well as a family who understands it’s part of his DNA. (TONY ENSALACO)
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Poor Lisa Ensalaco has to endure her husband’s mess, but we approve of his choice of magazine to read while she organizes his fishing rods. (TONY ENSALACO)
The garage walls are dotted with various hooks and hangers that hold nets, pairs of old waders, more rods, a plug pucker and a propane heater. A pretty typical set-up for a steelhead enthusiast. Let me invite you inside and give you a virtual written tour from room to room to see what else we can find.
BUT BEFORE WE GO in, you will notice the drops of dried blood on the driveway. No, nothing nefarious happened. The blood was left there from when I was cleaning some hatchery brats on top of a cooler. I guess I didn’t clean up very well. When you enter through the front room, the first thing you will notice is a semi-cluttered pile of old fishing magazines resting on the coffee table. I like to occasionally peruse through past issues instead of watching all of the 54
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negativity on television, so I keep them out for easy access. I tried to convince my wife to leave them displayed because it shows our guests that we are a well-read family. Of course, she doesn’t buy my lame excuses and removes them when I’m not home. But somehow, they always find their way back to the table. The next room you will enter is the formal dining room. It looks to be in order – except for the broken rods in one of the corners, including a Sage 9-weight, the most recent casualty. The tip section lost its last battle to a poorly placed dry bag that was errantly hurled into the boat. It’s waiting to be sent back to the manufacturer. The home office that sits off to the left contains the typical clutter, like most offices do. Upon further
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examination you will find stacks of maps, files and pamphlets representing all of the rivers and lodges I plan on visiting someday. The bookcase is jam-packed. I would be lying if I said that it’s stuffed with literary classics and books written by history’s greatest thinkers. If you look at the computer’s screen, it probably has the website pulled up for the U.S. Geological Survey so I can instantly check the water levels of any river in the country. Leaving the office to the right is the powder room. Look closely and you will see a copy of (fellow Alaska Sporting Journal correspondent) Scott Haugen’s book, Egg Cures: Proven Recipes and Techniques, resting on the vanity. Again, I try to buffalo my wife that the reason why the book is still there is because I feel obligated to provide instant information to our house guests – just in case they
are in the market for a new egg recipe. Surprisingly, most of the people who visit me are in fact actively looking for new egg cures. Lisa says I’m an idiot. When walking towards the kitchen, there is a desk that you will pass on the right that has piles of assorted boxes of plugs and spinner parts, two or three pairs of split ring pliers, a Luhr-Jensen hook sharpener and stacks of photographs from past successful fishing trips. Once you enter the kitchen, be sure to look closely at the stovetop. You will see dried drops of orange, pink and chartreuse paint splattered around the front burner covers. This array of modern artwork has accumulated from years of painting hundreds of leadhead jigs with Pro-Tec powder paint. I could easily replace the stove’s burner covers, but there is something serene about seeing those vibrant colors when I’m making breakfast. Now for a bonus sighting. If you are fortunate enough to be standing
in the kitchen when the furnace or the central air kicks in, you will witness something that doesn’t usually happen in most homes. When the air starts blowing through the vents, some of the discarded fluorescent-colored marabou from my jig and fly-tying sessions will shoot out and rise into the air, resembling a small fireworks display. Warning: If I have been recently tying nightmare jigs, the discarded black marabou might look like a rodent and could easily startle someone. Open the refrigerator at any given time throughout the fishing season and you might find Mason jars containing recently obtained salmon or steelhead eggs soaking in a potion taken from page 14 of Scott’s book. Check the freezer and you’ll see several plastic bags of skein, frozen sardines to use for bait wraps and maybe a few fillets. There is a key rack hanging inside the mudroom that routinely holds pairs of polarized sunglasses dangling from the
hooks, scissors, hemostats and a jig-eye tool from another, so I can always find it after I paint my jigs. Maybe if I remove some of the mess, I can actually have a place to hang my keys and I wouldn’t keep losing them.
IN THE FAMILIY ROOM, there is a
rectangular mirror above the fireplace and some family pictures adorning the mantel, blah, blah, blah. Which is to say, not the 46-pound king salmon taken from the Nushagak River that I intended to display there after lugging it home for 3,000 miles and spent a pretty penny to get mounted, but I guess Lisa had to draw the line somewhere. Now onto the second floor. On the way upstairs piled on the first landing, you will probably have to sidestep around a small mountain of warm clothes, including pairs of wool socks, a couple of hoodies and a hat that needs to be put away from my last fishing trip.
There might be a cookbook and fun dating guide on a kitchen countertop, but don’t be surprised if you also spot a couple reels and lure boxes lying around too. (TONY ENSALACO)
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When you reach the top of the stairs there is another family room. On the wall there is a black and white picture of a drift boat with a man fishing to the left of it. I believe it gives the room a tranquil feeling. It must be tasteful because my wife allows that – and not the salmon – to hang on the wall. In the hallway we have a newly repaired vacuum cleaner. Seems that those darn kids of mine left lengths of fishing line, strands of Glo Bug yarn, and rod building and fly-tying thread all over the house which inadvertently got tangled in the vacuum’s roller. This is a reoccurring repair that needs to be conducted every few months. The first bedroom is my daughter’s, which is tastefully decorated for a girl of her age. It just has some dolls, children’s books and maybe a couple of T-shirts and souvenirs on the dresser that I brought home from my annual spring steelhead trips to Alaska. My son’s room has the first fishing rod I built for him hanging on the wall. It’s a mini version of a switch rod made from an extra fly rod tip section that I had lying around. Also, there is a picture of a 40-some-inch steelhead his daddy is holding that proudly sits on his dresser. As a joke, I removed his first ultrasound picture from the nursery frame before he was born and slipped it in. Since then,
Tony’s and Lisa’s daughter Brooke and son Anthony have their own mementos, whether it’s a souvenir from Alaska or a father-son fishing photo. (TONY ENSALACO)
the frame has been age-appropriately updated, but the picture still remains the same. I believe it that it brings good karma to his room. Aside from the typical fishing literature left on the nightstand on my side of the bed, the master bedroom might be the only space in the house immune to the fishing bug. But ... Lisa has a shoebox full of nail polish in the master bathroom. What she doesn’t know is that I use it as my personal touch-up kit for customizing lures. She swears to me that she hardly uses certain shades of pinks and oranges, but the bottles always seem to be empty. And if you think my ruse is exposed, think again. My secret is safe because she never bothers to read anything I write. Fortunately, most of the author’s fishing gear gets stored in own man cave down in the basement. (TONY ENSALACO) 56
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the rest of the house, and if I must say, it looks to be in fairly tidy condition. Lisa claims that the joint is in disarray; I prefer to describe it as “functionally controlled chaos.” It’s funny, because it was mutually agreed upon when we first bought the house that I was only supposed to have the basement for all of my fishing paraphernalia, but somehow the gear migrated upstairs throughout the rest of the house and exponentially expanded over time. It’s been a turf war ever since. Speaking of that: There is no reason to go downstairs to check out my space in the basement. It’s quite obvious what you will find there. ASJ
G P
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“It was mutually agreed upon when we first bought the house that I was only supposed to have the basement for all of my fishing paraphernalia,” Tony writes, “But somehow the gear migrated upstairs throughout the rest of the house and exponentially expanded over time. It’s been a turf war ever since.” (TONY ENSALACO)
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MEET BJØRN OLSON: MODERN-DAY ADVENTURER, STORYTELLER, ADVOCATE
BY BJORN DIHLE
I
n 2013, Bjørn Olson decided to fatbike and packraft from Cook Inlet to Bristol Bay via the northern shore of 77-milelong Lake Iliamna. Olson joked – well, it might not entirely be a joke – that he was looking for the lake’s famed monster (Alaska
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Sporting Journal, December 2020). “We met a few folks along the way who 100-percent believe they’d seen it. They wouldn’t hear anything about it being some giant sturgeon,” Bjørn said. “We started out hoping to see the Iliamna Lake monster, but I'm kind of
MARCH 2021 | aksportingjournal.com
convinced the monster is the lake itself.”
A HOMESTEADING LIFE Bjørn grew up in the shadows of the Wrangell Mountain Range in the tiny village of Slana. His dad worked as a hunting guide and his family lived a
Bjørn Olson – here getting creative in his route-finding along Lake Iliamna – captures the spirit of Alaska in everything he does, including when fatbiking and packrafting around Bristol Bay. (BJØRN OLSON)
homesteading lifestyle. It was there, amidst the rugged country, that his appreciation of and penchant for exploring the wilds of Alaska was born. These days, Bjørn is based out of Homer and known across the state as a thoughtful and hardcore explorer. His
favorite modes of travel are fatbiking and packrafting. Fatbikes, with their oversized tires, are designed for riding across snow, sand and in other conditions where normal mountain bikes would get bogged down. Packrafts, which weigh around 7
pounds and, when deflated, roll up to about the size of a sleeping bag, have redefined what’s possible in backcountry travel. Many Alaskans love their packrafts and fatbikes more than their sweethearts, children or even dogs. There’s talk of starting a rehabilitation center for victims
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of this outdoor phenomenon, but the sad truth of it is there’s no coming back once you cross into that world.
VERSATILE CAREER Bjørn is a talented filmmaker, photographer and writer. He’s on the board of the Kachemak Bay Conservation Society and works with the United Tribes of Bristol Bay and Ground Truth Alaska, formally known as Ground Truth Trekking. The latter is a nonprofit that utilizes human-powered exploration and scientific analysis of areas where large-scale industrial projects are being proposed. Bjørn’s work, with a heavy emphasis on adventuring, focuses on environmental and social issues in Alaska, which for a lot of folks are one and the same. For instance, practicing subsistence is an important part of the fabric of much of Alaska and, to do so, requires healthy ecosystems.
A TRIP TO BRISTOL BAY In 2013, when Bjørn decided to travel from Cook Inlet to Bristol Bay, he did so largely to learn more about the proposed Pebble Mine and what was at stake if the project were ever to be developed. Seeing the Iliamna Lake monster would be bonus material. The journey took 10 days and covered 250 miles. “Our timing was perfect. It was a hot Olson’s upbringing as a homesteader and his love for the outdoors has endeared him to the cause of protecting Lake Iliamna’s and Bristol Bay’s salmon from the Pebble Mine. “We need permanent protections,” he says. (BJØRN OLSON)
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July. My goal was to ride as much as was possible,” Bjørn said. He and his partner, Brent, hitched a ride on a landing craft to Iliamna Bay in Cook Inlet and the beginning of the Pile Bay-Williamsport Road. The 15mile gravel road offers a shorter route for commercial fishing boats to get to Bristol Bay than motoring all the way around the Alaska Peninsula. Travel quickly became interesting once the two men left the road. Brown bear sign was everywhere and sockeye salmon were
“Our timing was perfect. It was a hot July. My goal was to ride as much as was possible,” Olson says. (BJØRN OLSON)
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busy spawning. “All the sockeye were blushed out and the streams were chock-full. It was incredible. The lake is this massive nursery that supports Bristol Bay,” Bjørn said.
USING THEIR HEADS The first leg of the journey demanded creative route-finding. Sometimes to save time, the two men would swim with their bikes around cliffs along Lake Iliamna’s shore. Their packrafts were invaluable. “It’s incredible to have the ability to roll up your completely competent watercraft and strap it to your handlebars
or stuff it in your backpack. To have that versatility to be able to move through huge swaths of Alaska territory – it’s unparalleled,” Bjørn said. After a few days of creative routefinding, Bjørn and Brent were able to ride their fatbikes pretty consistently along Lake Iliamna’s shore. They were treated with hospitality and met great people in the handful of Native villages they passed through.
DOWN THE RIVER
The last leg of the trip involved packrafting down the Kvichak River. The
“It’s incredible to have the ability to roll up your completely competent watercraft and strap it to your handlebars or stuff it in your backpack,” Olson says. “To have that versatility to be able to move through huge swaths of Alaska territory – it’s unparalleled.” (BJØRN OLSON)
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50-mile-long stream, which empties into Bristol Bay near Naknek, is considered to be the river with the biggest salmon run in the world. It’s also just downstream of where the Pebble deposit is located. Paddling the Kvichak started off well for Bjørn and Brent, but when they got to the lower stretches of the river, headwinds and tidal variations proved challenging. At that point in the trip (around the 11-minute mark in his film, vimeo.com/193599645, of the journey), Bjørn had to contend with his inner Gollum to get through what he called “the Blair Witch part of the expedition.”
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IT WAS ALL WORTH IT Seven years later, Bjørn still raves about the trip, even though he didn’t see the monster. When asked about the current state of Bristol Bay and surrounding region, Bjørn says there’s a lot to celebrate with the Army Corps of Engineers’ denial of Pebble’s permit
last November 25. “We need permanent protections, though. The next fight is for permanent protections for the region,” Bjørn said.
Editor’s note: Check out Bjørn Olson’s work on his website mjolnirofbjorn.com and follow him on Instagram (@fatbikebjorn).
Olson’s exploration of Lake Iliamna and the packraft trip down the Kvichak River was something he will never forget. “We started out hoping to see the Iliamna Lake monster, but I'm kind of convinced the monster is the lake itself.” (BJØRN OLSON)
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Pride of Bristol Bay is a free column written by Bjorn Dihle and provided by its namesake, a fisherman-direct seafood marketer that specializes in delivering the highest quality of sustainably caught wild salmon from Bristol Bay to your doorstep. Go to prideofbristolbay.com for more information. ASJ
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