As march 2016

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UPDATES, FISHING REPORTS & MORE

FISH ON! Prince William Sound Rockfish Anchorage Trout, Salmon Interior Arctic Grayling FOR F OR READY FO ALASKA?

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Questions Q tii To Ask Before Hiring A Guide

AKSPORTINGJOURNAL.COM

TECH CHECK

Spin Gear or Fly for Coho? Small-water Steelhead

BEAR HUNTING The Black or Brown Debate?

Surviving A ‘Cursed’ Snowmachine Trip! Get Hunt-fit Now!

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ALASKA

SPORTING JOURNAL Volume 7 • Issue 10 www.aksportingjournal.com PUBLISHER James R. Baker ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Dick Openshaw GENERAL MANAGER John Rusnak EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott EDITOR Chris Cocoles ASSOCIATE EDITOR Tom Reale WRITERS Dave Atcheson, Paul D. Atkins, Louis A. Cusack, Christine Cunningham, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Jeff Lund, Bixler McClure, Krystin McClure, Conor Sullivan, Terry J. Wiest SALES MANAGER Katie Higgins ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mamie Griffin, Steve Joseph, Garn Kennedy, Mike Smith, Paul Yarnold PRODUCTION MANAGER Sonjia Kells DESIGNERS Ciara Pickering, Sam Rockwell, Liz Weickum WEB DEVELOPMENT/INBOUND MARKETING Jon Hines PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker CIRCULATION MANAGER Heidi Belew DISTRIBUTION Tony Sorrentino, Gary Bickford OFFICE MANAGER/ACCOUNTS Audra Higgins ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Katie Sauro INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER Lois Sanborn ADVERTISING INQUIRIES ads@nwsportsmanmag.com ON THE COVER Spots like Prince William Sound in Southcentral Alaska have plenty of colorful rockfish, including orange-splashed yelloweye swimming off the bottom, as Tony Davis discovered with this monster. (KODIAK CUSTOM TACKLE) MEDIA INDEX PUBLISHING GROUP WASHINGTON OFFICE 14240 Interurban Ave South • Suite 190 Tukwila, WA 98168 OREGON OFFICE 8116 SW Durham Rd • Tigard, OR 97224 (800) 332-1 736 • Fax (206) 382-9437 media@media-inc.com • www.media-inc.com CORRESPONDENCE Twitter @AKSportJourn Facebook.com/alaskasportingjournal Email ccocoles@media-inc.com

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CONTENTS

VOLUME 7 • ISSUE 10

57 BIG CITY ICE

Why stay indoors?! Anchorage resident Tom Reale bundled up and took a tour of the frozen lakes around Alaska’s biggest city (population 300,000) and found a lot of locals, including many families, angling through the hardwater. Come along for a tour of Anchorage’s ice fishing circuit, where plenty of stocked trout, landlocked salmon and char await! (TOM REALE)

FEATURES 42

BOTTOMS UP! From the orange-tinted yelloweye to cousins like quillback, silvergray and China, rockfish provide saltwater anglers a mixed bag of bottomfish that are as colorful as they are tasty. Our Dennis Musgraves details how to catch these exotic-looking and underrated species.

109 THE BLACK (BEAR) LIST In a state where grizzly and Kodiak bears are treated with iconic reverence and heaping doses of respect, Jeff Lund’s bruin hunting focuses on the less celebrated black bear. As the spring season approaches, he explains why Ursus americanus provides him plenty of enthusiasm for heading afield in the Panhandle.

116 THE GUIDEBOOK ON GUIDES OK, so you’ve decided to plan the hunt of a lifetime in the Last Frontier. What next? DIY is a great option, but you may want to hire a guide. Our big game hunting guru Paul Atkins shares 15 questions you must ask outfitters before putting any of your money down for that Alaska adventure. 135 GETTING ALASKA FIT Guys, 12-ounce curls won’t get you in shape for the physical demands of hunting the rugged terrain where Sitka blacktails, Dall sheep and caribou roam. Take it from Alaska experts Scott and Tiffany Haugen – their Field to Fire column offers advice on the best fitness programs and serves up a recipe for tasty, power-packed snacks.

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 14 31 72 93 97

‘Alaska engineering’ put to test on snowmachine trip from hell Book excerpt: My life as a commercial fisherman Arctic grayling, an appreciation of these colorful and hungry fish Small-water steelheading Spinning gear or fly rods for coho?

DEPARTMENTS/COLUMNS 13 27

The Editor’s Note Protecting Wild Alaska: Will sockeye runs at Kodiak NWR improve? 27 Outdoor Calendar 142 Loose Ends, with Christine Cunningham: Jury of bird hunters

Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Inc. Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Inc. Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $39.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Inc. Publishing Group, 14240 Interurban Ave South, Suite 190, Tukwila, WA 98168 or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues may be ordered at Media Inc. Publishing Group, subject to availability, at the cost of $5 plus shipping. Copyright © 2015 Media Inc. Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A. 10

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EDITOR’S NOTE Krystin and Bixler McClure found time to smile after snowmachine breakdowns wreaked havoc on a four-day trip in the Alaskan Interior last month. Their “Alaska engineering” skills helped them survive the adventure. (BIXLER MCCLURE)

T

echnology is both a blessing and a curse. I sometimes wish I lived two centuries ago, when horses not only were your personal Chevy, Dodge or Toyota but also were your Delta, FedEx, Verizon and Papa John’s. Give me a four-legged stallion over an exploding Pinto any day. Our husband-and-wife Alaska adventure seekers Krystin and Bixler McClure just returned from what was supposed to be a snowmachining trip and soak in the Tolovana Hot Springs in the Interior north of Fairbanks, followed by a little ice fishing. Instead, technology failed, as you’ll discover in their report for this issue (spoiler alert: they were fine). “We survived a complete and utter snowmachining disaster trip,” Krystin told me. “We had to use a lot of ‘Alaska engineering’ to deal with the cold.” I’ve been there, not in weather that cold or in country that remote. But I’ve had my share of mechanical mishaps with seemingly every motorized craft I’ve operated. I’m not an avid golfer, but my friend and I once got our cart stuck on a bridge at a remote course while we were hooking and slicing through nine miserable holes. And cars? Don’t me get started on those dreadful machines. My sister’s 1963 Ford Falcon that I drove my first year of college – it was admittedly an awesome though flawed car – suffered a broken crankshaft on the freeway on my way to class. Tow truck drivers became personal heroes from that point on. A year later, I was driving a not-so-vintage 1977 Mustang (again, not the kind of horse I would prefer), but it suffered multiple breakdowns, including one on a hot summer night pre-cell phone days and prompting a 2-mile walk on the side of the road to find a phone. I had an otherwise dependable 1988 Ranger pickup – I know; I grew up in a Ford family – that I drove the hell out of when I worked as a sports reporter in Los Angeles, but on mountain passes the temperature gauge would skyrocket in hot weather. So when I read Krystin’s and Bixler’s tales of woe, I could at least relate to the theory that nothing that needs gas or something similar to operate might have other ideas about getting you from Point A to Point B. I’ll bet you can relate too. –Chris Cocoles aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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‘THIS TRIP IS

’ CURSED! A DOOMED SNOWMACHINE TRIP THROUGH THE ALASKAN WILDERNESS PROVES THE OLD ADAGE ABOUT PREPARATION

As the McClures found, mechanical issues can be influenced and compounded by frigid weather. (BIXLER MCCLURE) 14

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BY KRYSTIN AND BIXLER MCCLURE

B

e prepared. Those are the best two words of advice we can offer anyone planning a trip in Alaska. Most of the time, our fishing and hunting adventures in the wilds of Alaska run smoothly, making us wonder why we cart around so many extra supplies. Then we have one of those adventures, the type with compounding problems where we make it out safely due to our preparations and a bit of Alaskan ingenuity. Our trip to Tolovana Hot Springs was one of those adventures. The area is a remote wilderness resort some 105 road miles north of Fairbanks and 10 miles down a difficult up-anddown trail. There are three cabins to rent and three tubs fed by natural hot springs in the area. The setting is extremely remote and the trailhead is simply a turnout at Milepost 93 of the Elliot Highway. Surprisingly, though the hot springs are popular, we managed to squeeze in a midweek reservation in early February. And the die was cast.

BIXLER AND I brainstormed potential problems we might have while loading up our truck. Our new-to-us snowmachines were Polaris RMKs, circa 2000, that were running great. Bixler grabbed extra coolant, two-stroke oil and tools, just in case. I checked the weather. Fairbanks and the area north was forecast to be about 0 degrees F or slightly below, so we packed warm clothes and grabbed a generator for the block heater on our old diesel truck. We grabbed our satellite phone and GPS. We packed guns and snowshoes and a shovel. Bixler checked over our snowmachines and trailer. Everything looked good and soon we found ourselves on the 10-hour drive north to Fairbanks to stay with friends before heading to the hot springs. Somewhere on the highway near Cantwell, the windshield on my snowmachine broke off. Not a big deal since I have a full face helmet, so we simply ripped it off the snowmachine. After a night in Fairbanks, we headed north to the trailhead through the remote and lonely wilderness of the Steese and Elliot Highways. The Elliot Highway was rough, but the trailhead was easy to find since the turnout contained the only other cars on the entire road. Bixler unloaded the snowmachines while I prepared the trailer. Because of the cold, much of our food that I did not want to freeze went into a cooler inside the truck, along with our water and other clothing. For some unknown reason, while I was packing the sled I felt nervous, as if I was having a premonition of things to come. Bixler felt the same, especially when he warmed up his snowmachine and realized it was idling high. “We are going anyway,” Bixler said as he packed snow on aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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the rails of the snowmachine to help with the cooling, and then hitched up the sled. As we hooked up our gear, another couple who had been to the hot springs before came up and said, “Good luck.” Bixler and I looked at each other, wondering what they meant. I felt better as we zipped down the trail, well-packed and easy to follow. We stopped a few times to repack snow on the cooling system since Bixler’s high-revving snowmachine was overheating. Our last stop was when we climbed to the top of the dome towering above the hot springs. We were greeted by sweeping views of the Interior – the powerful sight of Denali shining on the horizon. A few other hot springs users were enjoying the view, but gave us the odd comment of, “You came all the way from Seward for this?” The comment churned in our heads for the duration of the trip. Was it a premonition or a curse?

AS WE HEADED downhill, the brake on Bixler’s snowmachine overheated and started seeping brake fluid since the idle was so high. We stopped on a downhill slope to rest the snowmachine while the fluid returned to Bixler’s brake lines. He was frustrated by the high idle. Since we were less than a mile from the cabin, we decided to push onwards. Bixler used the choke switch to control speed and stopped when his brake was acting up again. Thankfully, we made it safely to the cabin. Bixler inspected his snowmachine and realized the throttle cable was caked with ice, causing the cable to not release all the way. A quick removal of the ice and the snowmachine was back to idling properly. The cabin was a one-room wonder, well-stocked and comfortable. We spent four days leisurely following a regimen of eat, sleep, soak, read, view the northern lights and snowmachine. The weather was bitterly cold and made worse due to fierce winds, so we dressed warmly in our Arctic coveralls (used by oil workers on the North Slope) and brought our satellite phone everywhere when venturing far from the cabin. Ever since El Niño arrived in Seward, our snow has been dwindling, so we took advantage of the many snowmachine trails in the area. We followed a trail and Bixler shot a sharptailed grouse, the first of that species for us. We followed the trail onward to a frozen riverbed and stopped to look for more birds. When we returned to our snowmachines, I found that mine would not start. No amount of pulling the pull-start would get it to budge. We carry numerous spark plugs and a toolset in the seat of our snowmachines, so we started pulling spark plugs. Eventually, we got the thing started, but then I got it stuck again and it stalled. We repeated the changing of the spark plugs and the clearing of the excess fuel and I sped back to the cabin. Bixler did some light maintenance and found some ice caked around the kill switch. My snowmachine fired right up the next day with no problems. Bixler took his up to the top of the dome to look for birds and returned, noting a coolant leak 16

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A broken strut that had to be roped together was one of many mishaps on a snowmachine trip into the Alaskan Interior that felt like it was for the birds – and also yielded one for Bixler, this sharptail grouse. (BIXLER MCCLURE)


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It might have been a trip full of obstacles and mishaps, but these spectacular evening views of the northern lights helped make up for the misery. (BIXLER MCCLURE)

in his snowmachine. “I left the coolant in the truck,” he said with a big sigh. His coolant was low, but the leak abated. We contemplated how to get my excess coolant out of my snowmachine into his and headed back inside when we were too cold and windblown to continue. Sitting inside the cabin, I noticed a bottle of Windex sitting on the shelf. I grabbed the bottle and removed the squirting part of it, cleaning out the excess Windex. We dipped the tube into my coolant and squirted it into a cup. Bixler fashioned a funnel out of a paper plate and evened out the coolant between the two snowmachines. The problem seemed to be solved, but both of us still woke up in the middle of the night drenched in sweat (for once, not caused by overloading the wood stove), and worrying about the ride out.

WE DID ONE last check over the snowmachines and hooked up the sled. Everything appeared to be working as we headed back up the steep hill to the top of the dome. Bixler and I sped up the trail with little problems, though I swore my snow18

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machine was struggling in places. Bixler got ahead of me and stopped on the trail to wait. I came up behind him and threw on the brake. My snowmachine died. Bixler continued ahead and got stuck in a snowdrift and realized I was not behind him. He walked down the trail to try to help me restart my snowmachine. No luck. I walked up with him and got his snowmachine unstuck. After digging out his mode of transport and dragging the sled uphill by hand, we started to devise a worst-case plan. Bixler would drive our gear back to the truck while I tried to restart my snowmachine. If I could not get it started, I would walk back towards the truck and meet him on the trail when he came back. I grabbed water, food, ice cleats and something warm for my head – hiking in a helmet is impossible – and gave Bixler one last push uphill. I walked back to my snowmachine and managed to get it restarted. It struggled for power and died again in the same snowdrift. It would not restart. I took off my helmet, put on ice cleats for traction and a hat and facemask to combat the weather and started the walk out.


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PREPARING FOR THE WORST Alaska can be a harsh place, and it’s hard to anticipate what can go wrong in a cold and remote wilderness. We got out of our situation because we were well-prepared for a variety of scenarios. If you are planning an adventure in Alaska, consider some of these preparation tips, especially if you’re adventuring in the winter or going remote: TAKE IT FOR A TEST RIDE Before we left Seward, we tested our truck and snowmachines and checked essential fluids in both. Oftentimes, a problem will present itself with a simple test ride. Despite all the mechanical issues with their snowmachines, the cabin and soaking tubs at Tolovana Hot Springs provided the McClures comfort. (BIXLER MCCLURE)

REDUNDANCY We had two snowmachines similar in size, two tow hitches, two tow straps and eight spark plugs for a reason. Redundancy allows for a safe return from the wilderness, because if one thing goes wrong, you have a backup to work with. If you are a snowmachiner and want to go remote, bring a friend with one or be prepared for a long walk out. BRING TOOLS, FLUIDS AND ROPE A basic set of tools, a few feet of rope and essential fluids can save a snowmachine trip. Most snowmachines have a small storage place for these items. If not, throw these into a backpack. You never know when you might need them.

When I reached the top of the dome I again ran into Bixler, who had dropped off our sled and topped off his coolant. He planned to try to unstick my snowmachine and ride it up to me so I could ride it out. He sped downhill and I followed on foot. Bixler unstuck my snowmachine from the drift, but it died again. He restarted it and sped uphill, screaming at me to run after it. My trek to the top of the dome wore me out and I ran as fast my legs could push me. As soon as I reached my snowmachine, it sputtered and shut off. As a last resort, we tried to use our tow straps to tow it out, but Bixler’s snowmachine could not pull it up the steep icy hill. We made the executive decision to abandon it in place with a note stuck in the brake handle, still 9 miles from the trailhead. We rode two-up on Bixler’s snowmachine back to the truck. During the trek, we ran into a family from North Pole on snowmachines and explained the situation. They offered to try to get mine out since we had to return to Fairbanks. “Oh yeah, we’ll help. We’re all Alaskans, right?” he joked as he explained that their touring snowmachines had enough power to tow just about anything. We returned to the truck and loaded the one snowma20

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CONTEMPLATE THE COLD Cold makes everything infinitely more difficult, especially with a broken snowmachine or sluggish truck. Check the weather before you go and dress accordingly. Bring clothes for all parts of your body, including your face. If you are carrying water, consider an insulated container or zipping up your water bottle in your jacket. If you are worried about your car starting, a generator and extension cord can do wonders (it also unlocks locks, too!). INVEST IN A SATELLITE PHONE Alaska does not have statewide cell service like most places. Satellite phones can be rented or you can purchase one with an Alaskan-specific plan to cut down on costs for minutes. BECOME AN ALASKAN MACGYVER Use your brain and the supplies you have. You’d be surprised what you can fix with rope, a Leatherman and the weirdest of items, like a Windex bottle and a paper plate! –KM

chine into the trailer. Bixler went to start the truck, which was sluggish. “Will anything go right today?” he yelled through the fierce winds at the trailhead as we wrestled the generator out of the truck. We plugged the generator into the block heater and 20 minutes after warming the oil we had the truck started. It was


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that kind of a day.

DRIVING BACK TO Fairbanks, we contemplated what to do about the abandoned snowmachine. Bixler decided to call our friend Neil, a student at University of Alaska Fairbanks and a snowmachiner, to see if any of his friends wanted to rescue a cheap and abandoned snowmachine in the wilderness. Neil jumped at the idea, and while we nursed beers at Silver Gulch brewery, Neil organized a lightning-strike rescue operation with some fellow friends from UAF. The next morning, we loaded up Neil’s new Polaris RMK on our trailer and headed back to the trailhead with Neil and his friend, Adam. The four of us drove up to the trailhead, laughing at an abandoned trailer parked in the middle of the Elliot Highway with a broken axle. We parked back at the trailhead and went to pull the snowmachines off of our trailer. Bixler stepped out of the truck and spewed a string of expletives. Our axle had cracked on both sides of the trailer, causing the tires to lean inward. At this point all we could do was laugh because everything could go wrong did go wrong in a classic case of Murphy’s Law taunting us. I stayed behind at the truck, restarting it every hour for about 15 minutes to circulate the oil. Bixler, Adam and Neil started down the trail. A few hours later, the family from North Pole arrived and updated me on the situation. They

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had ridden my snowmachine up and over the dome and the guys had taken over from there. Bixler arrived first on my snowmachine, which made it back to the trailhead after a combination of towing using Neil’s new Polaris RMK, and the fact that it started for the final uphill trek to the trailhead. Adam followed on Bixler’s snowmachine, which had broken a ski strut and was held together with a piece of rope that we also carry with us during these adventures. Neil came out last and inspected his snowmachine, which had a slight crack because he had run into a tree. “This trip is cursed,” I said when the three arrived back at the truck, which was warming up. Contemplating what to do with the two snowmachines, we decided to load them onto the broken trailer since our trailer was insured. Bixler used our satellite phone and called his mother, Sue, who went to our house to check over our trailer policy. Roadside assistance was covered. Before loading Neil’s snowmachine into the bed of our truck, we had to get the trailer hitch off the ball. I suggested we lock it up for safety and we struggled with the frozen lock. The antifreeze did not do the trick, so out came the trusty generator. We used the exhaust to thaw out the lock and dropped the trailer in its final resting place. Bixler talked with the insurance company and arranged for the $500 tow to a trailer repair shop in Fairbanks (the tow truck driver spent 10 hours towing our broken combination back to Fairbanks thanks to a rough road, so he wasn’t spared either). We organized a shuttling mission with Neil and Adam to shuttle our broken snowmachines to Adam’s house, where they would be put on sale on Craigslist. We loaded up our truck with the remaining gear and had a flawless drive back to Seward. We all came out of the ordeal unscathed – less a trailer and two snowmachines, of course – because of proper planning and anticipation of what could go wrong. In Alaska, be prepared for anything. It helps to have some great friends, too. ASJ


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$1,200,000 Kodiak Lodge is a high quality hunting, fishing, and wildlife viewing lodge located in the city of Larsen Bay on worldfamous Kodiak Island. The Lodge is situated on 1.5 acres of commercially zoned, waterfront property at the end of town. Larsen Bay is a city of approximately 90 year-round residents and offers power, fuel, a modern marina, and an aircraft runway for easy access to the lodge. Kodiak Lodge was constructed in 2001 using quality building materials and has been well maintained. The entire exterior was re-stained in 2015 and the interior was given a fresh coat of paint. Buildings included in this sale consist of: • Dining Lodge with commercial kitchen, built 2001 • Sleeping Lodge with 7 beds, 4 baths, built 2003 • Cabin with 2 beds, 2 baths, built in 2001 • Fish processing building, built 2015 • Waterfront gazebo with hot tub • Tool shed • Guide Shack • 40’ Conex storage container

Kodiak Lodge is being sold as a turn-key business with all boats, vehicles, gear, furnishings, valuable client list, and website included. Boats and vehicles included in this sale consist of: 2012 28ft Fish Rite 2008 26ft Hewescraft 2001 23ft Pacific 1999 23ft Pacific (2) 2013 Polaris ATVs 2001 Polaris Ranger 2001 Polaris 6 wheel Sportsman 1989 GMC 12 passenger van 1999 F250 Pickup (2) 2001 Ford pickups Tackle and gear includes downriggers, Daiwa rods and reels, Xtratuff boots, Helly Hansen raingear, Reddington waders and much more.

Visit our website! www.alaskacoastalrealty.com Art Swisher: Owner Broker • Ken Swisher: Associate Broker art@alaskacoastalrealty.com • ken@alaskacoastalrealty.com 26

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(907) 235-7700 • 375 W. Pioneer Ave. Homer AK 99603

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PROTECTING

KODIAK NWR HOPEFUL WILD ALASKA SOCKEYE RUNS ON UPSWING BY CHRIS COCOLES

K

odiak Island’s Karluk Lake is one of the defining natural wonders of the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge. But its salmon-rich waters have gone through some tough times in recent years. The largest lake in the refuge supports all five northeast Pacific salmon species, but according to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, between 2008 and 2011, the lake’s early sockeye salmon run couldn’t meet the minimum escapement goals of the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. “ADFG attributes the decreased runs to a number of factors, including overescapement between 1985 and 2007, which resulted in large numbers of juveniles that overgrazed and reduced the food (zooplankton) available for future runs,” Andrea Medeiros of USFWS wrote in a report. The Kodiak Regional Aquaculture Association requested a special-use permit to conduct nutrient enrichment in the lake’s watershed. But USFWS announced it would select the “Current Management (No Action) Alternative as the best way to conserve the abundance of natural salmonoid populations and their habitat for continued human and wildlife use.” “Karluk sockeye salmon stocks are

Karluk Lake, Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge’s largest, saw sockeye salmon returns drop below Alaska Department of Fish and Game escapement goals, though numbers appear to be trending in the right direction once again. (LISA HUPP/USFWS)

within their historic levels and will likely continue to vary over time in response to many environmental factors, including lake, river and marine habitat, as well as human factors such as escapement goals and harvest,” says Geoffrey Haskett, regional director for the USFWS in Alaska. “The Service will continue to work with the Alaska Department of Fish and Game to manage this valuable resource.” USFWS drafted a detailed assessment of the lake and considered three alternatives, ultimately deciding on taking no action. The assessment tackled four questions: Is nutrient deficiency in Karluk Lake an issue? Is the variability of nutrients outside of historical ranges? Is there an adult sockeye productivity is-

sue? Is the current sockeye salmon run size adequate to achieve self-sustaining populations at historic levels? “Since 2012, the sockeye salmon returns to Karluk Lake have trended upwards and have met the escapement goals for both the early and late sockeye runs,” USFWS reports. As we’ve seen elsewhere Pacific salmon return, escapement can change dramatically over time. So the next couple years’ worth of sockeye runs at Kodiak NWR should make for quite the fascinating study. ASJ

OUTDOOR CALENDAR March 3-6 March 5 March 15

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‘SO YOU WANT TO BE A FISHERMAN?’ BOOK CHRONICLES A COMMERCIAL ANGLER’S COMING-OF-AGE EXPERIENCE

Dave Atcheson was a newbie when it came to commercial fishing and Alaska, which didn’t exactly make for a smooth transition into this tough-as-nails world, but he was willing to go all-in as a deckhand on the Lancer. (DAVE ATCHESON) aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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Editor’s note: Dave Atcheson had never even seen the ocean when, as an 18-year-old, he headed to Alaska and eventually got a job as a greenhorn deckhand on a commercial fishing boat. It would be a life-changing journey of discovery, peril and perspective. An accomplished author, Atcheson’s latest book is Dead Reckoning, Navigating a Life on the Last Frontier, Courting Tragedy on its High Seas (Skyhorse Publishing). The following is an excerpt from that work. BY DAVE ATCHESON

L

ancer, June 1984 Who, in their earliest 20s, could be anything but unsure of themselves, yet so much less cautious about taking a chance? That was me: New to Alaska, wide-eyed and willing to go anywhere life took me. So it was with barely a hesitation that I climbed into the car with Mark and The Quiet Man, and in a cloud of dust we took off toward the Seward boat harbor. If I’d known anything whatsoever about the sea – about fishing, or about boats, the fact that the Lancer needed two deckhands – two greenhorn deckhands – just days before the season opened would have tipped me off and would have sent a bright red flare above the turbid sea of my brain, warning me of impending disaster. But I didn’t know the first thing about the sea, this boat, or about Mark, for that matter, and no warning flare was ever lit.

ON OUR WAY to the harbor we passed the vast, rusty

Atcheson says commercial fishermen returning to the docks after a winter

array of blue and green cannery buildings, a corrod- off fall into two camps: the successful, who return from the tropics “tanned ed, self-contained village that had suddenly come and trim and full of sun and surf,” and the sourdoughs, “down and out and full of drink and despair” after poor fishing the year before kept them close to life with forklifts, cranes and a flotilla of boats to port. (SARA POZONSKY) gearing up for the approaching season. Following a quaint seaside street dotted with small gift shops, docks, I was glad he was there, glad he’d be with me on this tour operators and charter fishing outfits, we passed boats first giant leap into the unknown. held suspended in dry dock, perched high on rusty barThe Quiet Man took the lead, down a ramp and into the rels and two-by-fours. These were either being diligently world of boats. I had no idea there could be so many. We worked – sanded, caulked and painted in a frenzy – or sitwalked past all kinds, sail and power boats owned mostly by ting neglected, dilapidated and repossessed. businesspeople from the suburbs of Anchorage who would The smell of dreams filled the air, those of fiberglass and drive down for a weekend during summer to polish their teak fresh paint mixing with the dry rot of those long forgotten. The and sip martinis on the back decks. ghosts of each passing season [hung] on the breeze, waiting Perhaps they’d take their friends on a little trip around the to be caught and resurrected by newcomers like us. bay or an occasional troll for salmon. Then we passed the tour I looked at Mark sitting there. Though he had the air of a and charter boats: large 100-foot vessels, windowed water rough older brother, he could be, at the same time, trusting buses, fiberglass and utilitarian, their lines straight and not and somehow childlike. One minute a man of the world, the very pretty; or 25-foot aluminum-hulled speedsters set up for next asking me for something I thought everyone knew, like sport, halibut poles racked up like weaponry along the outside helping him mail a package or make a transaction at the bank. of their cabin walls. Either way, as we emerged from the car and headed to the 32

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As Woody’s hands – “squat and leathery like a pair of old-time baseball mitts that hadn’t been oiled in decades and shy a few fingers” – attested, deckhanding on a commercial fishing boat isn’t for those who aren’t prepared for a job with a high degree of physical labor. (DOUG KNUTH/WIKIMEDIA)

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We headed on to where the working boats were tied, a flurry of activity crossing each slip – men and a few women, tough looking and road-weary, coiling lines, stacking and mending nets, scraping last-minute paint and putty. I knew immediately these men and women lived much nearer to Mark’s world than mine; they all appeared to possess at least some of that same swagger, something I hoped might rub off on me. “Hey, you guys got everything ready to go?” someone called from the deck of one of the boats. “Yeah, you bet,” The Quiet Man called back, acknowledging a fellow sea dog with the first of his few words and a wave of his hand. He was clearly a part of the annual hustle and drive that springs to life on the docks each year – fishermen and boat people emerging from the winter woodwork. The good ones and the lucky ones, who caught a lot of fish last year, returning from months on a beach in the South Pacific or Central America; those not so lucky, the sourdoughs – sour because they’re stuck in Alaska, with no dough to get out – back from


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And so began the education of a lifetime for Atcheson – a new life at sea in the Last Frontier with some of the toughest human beings in the work force. (WIKIMEDIA)

a hard winter spent in the local bars or under the harsh city lights of Anchorage.

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Whether tanned and trim and full of sun and surf, or down and out and full of drink and despair, they all knew The Qui-


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et Man, who walked among the docks in every port town, as much a part of the annual transitory realm of the sea as the tides. It was a realm I saw through a landlubber’s eyes, rough, dirty, and untamed … and so unmistakably foreign.

TOO FAR IN to turn back now, I followed Mark and The Quiet Man deeper into uncharted territory, finally rounding the corner onto another finger of dock and ambling down a long row of vessels before spotting the one we were after. Its name, Lancer, was not written in some fancy Gothic script, like many of the boats we’d passed, or in carefully painted block letters, but stenciled haphazardly across its bow, the way the letters were scrawled on Mark’s fingers, as an afterthought or just another job to do. That’s when I saw Woody on deck, old and weather-worn and engrossed in the intricate task of splicing two pieces of line into one. The old man looked a lot like the Lancer – compact, tempered, yet battered and a bit rusty. Perhaps he’d been one of those spending a long winter in the bars of Seward. He looked up as we approached, absently dropping the ball of line that had so absorbed him a moment earlier. He wore a sort of spotted, chocolate-brown cap that once must have been as white as his remaining hair but was now stained with what looked like years of diesel oil and grease. I couldn’t help but notice his hands; they were squat and leathery like a pair

of old-time baseball mitts that hadn’t been oiled in decades and shy a few fingers. “Woody,” Mark said, surprising me how sheepish his voice suddenly sounded, “this is my friend – the one I was telling you about.” Something about the way he sized me up from the deck of his boat, his stance, his stabbing glare – a look that told me he and he alone was the boss, off shore and on – made me hesitate, even when he finally asked us in a gravelly voice to come aboard. But as we began to take that step over the rail and onto the boat he stopped short, turning abruptly to look me in the eye and catching just a glint of my momentary panic. “So, you want to be a fisherman,” he said, more of a wager than a question. Then, without waiting for a response he quickly turned, leading us into his kingdom, the beginning of my long and desultory alternative education. My introduction to the sea. ASJ Editor’s note: Dave Atcheson is also the author of National Geographic’s Hidden Alaska: Bristol Bay and Beyond and the guidebook Fishing Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. He has written for a variety of periodicals, from Outdoor Life to Boys’ Life, and is a frequent contributor to Alaska Magazine and past contributing editor for Fish Alaska Magazine. He lives in Sterling, Alaska. For more info, see daveatcheson.com.

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CATCHING FISH AT

ROCK B OTTOM SOME OF ALASKA’S BEST SALTWATER FISHING ISN’T FOR SALMON OR HALIBUT, IT’S THE MANY SPECIES OF ROCKFISH, THOUGH CONSERVATION IS KEY

BY DENNIS MUSGRAVES

F

acing a slow halibut bite was frustrating, so I could sense that a change in venue was going to be needed. My friends and I were well into a 45-minute stretch of bouncing bait aboard a chartered vessel that was anchored in Prince William Sound, and none of us had yet received even the slightest nibble. Even though we were just getting started on a scheduled full-day fishing trip, I was beginning to get restless for the tug of a fish. I thought maybe a fresh approach might entice something to strike in the depths below.

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Paul Ferreira fights a feisty rockfish in the waters of Prince William Sound. Jigging for these colorful fish that lurk near the sea floor or suspended in open waters is underrated, as anglers assume salmon and halibut are the only saltwater attractions in Alaska. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES) aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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MY HEAVY-ACTION halibut fishing combo had become an upper-body exercise device rather than an instrument for catching fish. A burning sensation in my forearms from intermittently cranking up 2 pounds of lead sinker off the sea floor – some 200 feet below – in order to occasionally check my bait encouraged me to speak up. Since I had brought a half-dozen of my personal favorite plastic-skirted bottom jig lures aboard, I respectfully asked the captain if I could trade my bait out for a custom jig and lower one of them off the aft of the boat, between the twin outboard motors and away from my buddies fishing from the boat’s side rails. I was instantly reinvigorated by the skipper’s response: “No problem; let’s get you set up.” My idea in switching to light-tackle jigging techniques was nothing innovative, as I’ve found good success in getting rockfish to bite using the method on previous outings. Firsthand experience had taught me that introducing an alternative technique for attracting saltwater bottomfish – rather than simply soaking a baited circle hook – can be a solution for stimulating some action. An added bonus is allowing my arms to 44

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Chris Cox with a yelloweye (top) and a quillback rockfish. There are several colorful variations in Alaskan waters. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

recover from the cumbersome winching of a heavy halibut rig. My jig of choice was a 6-ounce silicone-skirted unit in a vibrant pink color. Sending the bright, squidlike lure down into the water column gave me new hope on the situation. Once my jig hit bottom, I reeled up a good 20 feet and double-clutched the cork handle. With a single motion I sharply raised the tip of the rod skyward, getting the lure to aggressively rise and swim, while its pink plastic tentacles gave life to the


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Dennis Musgraves with black (left) and copper rockfish. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

lure. Slowly lowering the tip of the rod to match the speed of the lure’s descent allowed the enticing jig to sink under its own weight, and appear natural during its downward movement. Repeating the irregular pattern would hopefully draw in a fish.

The response was quick: On my third drop I felt a hasty thump of a fish striking the jig. My reaction to what I felt was immediate, quickly bending my elbows and pulling back on the fishing rod for a positive hook-set.

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ALL ABOUT ROCKFISH

There are 32 different species of rockfish present for sportfishing in the Gulf of Alaska. The bottom dwellers display a variety of interesting and vivid colors. Depending on which particular type, adult fish range in size from 8 to 40 inches in length. A common feature among the species is the presence of venomous fin spines, making it understandable why rockfish are members of the scientific family Scorpaenidae, or “scorpion fishes.” The mild poison, however, normally causes little less than slight swelling and discomfort to a human. Additional factors in rockfish being vulnerable to overfishing include their slow growth rate, ease of locating, late maturity and their aggressive feeding nature. In order to better manage Alaska’s fishery, rockfish are split into two different groups, pelagic and nonpelagic, based on their habitat.

Pelagic species are typically found in large schools free swimming in the water column near rocky structure while not being regulated in staying on the bottom. Rockfish in this group include dusky, black, dark, blue, widow and yellowtail. Nonpelagic rockfish stay on or close to the bottom of the ocean floor, hovering over rockpiles and pinnacles. The fish in this group are usually found alone or in small schools, frequently mingled in with other rockfish types. This group includes the most dramatically colored fish such as yelloweye, copper, quillback, silvergray, China and tiger. Anglers wanting to help conserve rockfish stocks in Alaska can do so by practicing a few simple prevention principles and by employing deep-water release techniques, which are outlined at the Alaska Department of Fish and Game website (adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=fishingsportfishinginfo. rockfishconservation). –DM

My boisterous “Fish on!” salvo let everyone on the boat know it too. Making a decision to change methods worked out well, as I had finally hooked into something with fins. Reeling up the rockfish took little effort, but was still exciting nonetheless. As the football-shaped, bronze-colored fish appeared just below the surface, I stopped cranking on the reel handle and welcomed the deckhand to position himself beside me with a net. Without hesitation, the deckhand took one skillful swipe and scoop and secured my catch to the deck.

With the fish now on the boat’s deck, I took the time to admire my prize and take a closer inspection to determine what exactly I had caught. “It’s a quillback,” a commonly caught species of rockfish, the captain confidently determined. I was thrilled with finding success in such short order. Capturing a tasty harvest in a matter of minutes after spending almost an hour soaking bait removed the skunk off my back and put a smile on my face. Needless to say, I was eager to send my custom skirted jig right back down for another try.

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TARGETING ROCKFISH CAN be a fun and sporty alternative when

Paul Ferreira with a silvergray rockfish. The swim bladder expanded while the fish was reeled to the surface, pushing its stomach out its mouth and making it appear as if the fish is sticking its tongue out. It’s a common occurrence with rockfish species. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

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the salmon or halibut bite goes south. The fish provide amazing flavor and delicious taste at the dinner table. Unfortunately, because of certain physical traits and where they predictably reside under the sea, rockfish are vulnerable to overfishing. Rockfish are some of the more colorful and exotic-looking species caught by saltwater anglers in Alaska, though they infrequently catch rockfish unintentionally, because the bottom dwellers regularly share the same deep space and type of habitat occupied by Pacific halibut. Fish prefer to congregate over rocky bottoms and near pinnacles, so specifically targeting them is certainly not difficult. At least 30 different types of rockfish can be found in the Gulf of Alaska, but only about one-third of the species are commonly caught. Notable differences between the types are found in their unique markings and color pallet of their skin, which makes correctly identifying individual fish fairly routine. All species of rockfish are slow-growing and can live to well over 100 years old. They are also late bloomers, typically taking up to 10 years to reach reproductive maturity. An additional physical similarity with rockfish is the presence of an internal swim bladder organ, which is used for buoyancy in the deep depths they live in. When rockfish are reeled up from the deep, gases in the swim bladder expand, causing it to swell and put pressure on other organs. One noticeable common occurrence that


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Tony Davis shows off an elusive China rockfish, one of many color schemes you’re bound to discover when you catch a bottomfish. (KODIAK CUSTOM FISHING TACKLE)

It’s unclear what’s more impressive about this yelloweye: its massive size or the bright color that makes it such a prized catch. (KODIAK CUSTOM FISHING TACKLE)

happens to a rockfish brought to the surface is that its stomach ends up protruding out of its mouth. Fish with inflated bladders have a high catch-and-release mortality rate since the fish cannot simply be released and expected to survive. Knowing the biological dynamics of rockfish make it easy for me to understand the concern for a balanced approach in fishing for the species. Being responsible with the resource is a shared obligation among every-

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one participating in the ďŹ shery. Preventing inadvertent catches of rockďŹ sh by staying away from areas where ďŹ sh are typically located and avoiding excessive harvesting are both recommended practices to help conserve rockďŹ sh species. In recent years some anglers have employed deepwater release methods as a tool to increase the odds rockďŹ sh survive being returned to the ocean. Studies conducted by ADFG have shown that ďŹ sh have a substantial improved chance of overcoming injuries associated with decompression when a deepwater release device is used. The goal of any of the devices is to quickly return the ďŹ sh to the original depth of capture to achieve recompression and execute a release. Although not every ďŹ sh survives deepwater release, there are promising numbers of rockďŹ sh that do thrive after being turned loose.

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JIGGING MY WAY to a limit of two nonpelagic rockďŹ sh went a bit faster than I intended. On the very next drop with my fancy jig I connected with a second rockďŹ sh, this time a solid orange-splashed yelloweye. Harvesting the ďŹ sh meant I would at the very least be bringing home a delicious meal. However, it also meant I was done for the day using jigs and light tackle, since I wanted to avoid catching another rockďŹ sh after obtaining my legal limit. Putting an early end to sportďŹ shing is never fun for me, but I knew it was the right thing to do. There is nothing gained in being greedy with rockďŹ sh, and certainly no point for me intentionally hooking up with another ďŹ sh, which I would be unable to retain and more than likely would lead to a fatal injury. Striking a balance is always a winwin for anglers and ďŹ sh, and it will certainly help ensure I can always ďŹ nd a rockďŹ sh to catch next time I go ďŹ shing in Alaska’s Prince William Sound. ASJ Editor’s note: For more of Dennis Musgraves’ Alaskan ďŹ shing adventures, go to alaskansalmonslayers.com.


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ANCHORAGE ICE TWICE AS NICE WITH FAMILY

As Josh Wilkins cuts a hole with a powerful auger, Jay Delgado and Wilkins’ daughter, Brooke, are ready to enjoy a day of ice fishing at Sand Lake. Located near Ted Stevens International Airport, it’s one of several Anchorage lakes offering rainbow trout (below), char and salmon for winter anglers. (TOM REALE)

STOCKED LAKES IN AND AROUND ALASKA’S LARGEST CITY PROVIDE ANGLING OPS FOR PARENTS, KIDS BY TOM REALE

I

f sitting in the middle of a frozen, windswept lake trying to entice a 10-inch hatchery rainbow to bite on your offering of shrimp or salmon eggs sounds like a good time to you, believe it or not, you won’t be alone out there. Ice fishing in Anchorage isn’t quite that bleak, and lots of people actually seem to enjoy it. After the busy autumn

hunting and fishing seasons, outdoor activities tend to slow way down in Southcentral Alaska. But rather than just give in to the grim realities of the winter, Alaskans gear up for a season of ice fishing. Speaking of gearing up, the first question a lot of prospective ice anglers have is, “How much gear do I really need to get started, and how much is it going to cost?” As with every outdoor pursuit, aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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Eric Cole and youngsters Abel, Gunnar and Sam brave the winter chill at Jewel Lake, just south of Sand Lake. They had plenty of fancy gear for their outing, but you can get by with less swag to take advantage of fishing within the confines of Alaska’s largest city. (TOM REALE)

the answer is, it depends. If you aren’t lucky enough to have a friend who has already made the investment of shelter, auger, sleds, heaters, etc., you’re going to have to decide whether or not to take the plunge yourself. Fortunately, although it’s possible to drop hundreds of bucks into the pursuit, it’s also possible to start out with minimal gear, getting your feet wet, so to speak, and spending a couple of days on the ice before making any rash buying decisions.

ON A RECENT chilly Saturday, I took a tour of several of the more popular lakes in town to see what people were using, and how they were going about catching fish through the ice. As far as gear went, I found everything from the absolute most basic set-up, which 58

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couldn’t have cost more than $25 or so, to elaborate camps with heated shelters, power augers and some of the more basic comforts of home. I didn’t see anybody with satellite TV, but I’m sure it’s been tried. For starters, all you really need is a hole in the ice, some fishing line with a hook, and bait. I found one couple out on Delong Lake with a pair of kids who used handlines wrapped around sticks, fishing in holes that someone else had drilled and deserted. The lines had hooks baited with salmon eggs and bobbers, and within 15 minutes of showing up, the kids had a lively little landlocked salmon flopping around on the ice. Just 50 feet away, Maxton Mitchell had drilled a hole with his auger and was using an electronic depth finder to see just exactly where in the water

MARCH 2016 | aksportingjournal.com

column the fish were hanging. He had one fish to his credit for the day so far and was using his own handmade jigs tipped with bait to try for more. On Jewel Lake I encountered three guys wrangling three youngsters while fishing. Eric Cole and his buddies John and Simon were keeping eyes on the trio of 5-year-olds, while simultaneously watching their lines in the tent. Their set-up was pretty elaborate – a big shelter with a heater, Coleman lamp, stools, green turf carpeting, power auger, sleds. It was what you might call the full catastrophe. Cole said they get out maybe eight or nine times a year, and that it’s a great way to get the kids outside burning off energy while catching mostly 8- to 10-inch rainbows. They like getting out early in the day for the good fishing, and they think that earlier in the season is better, too.


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Beer Can Lake is one of many fisheries in the Anchorage metro area where, with an auger, gear and some warm clothes, you can get into family-friendly ice fishing for stocked trout, char and salmon. (TOM REALE/TIM WILSON)

“The fish have just been stocked and they’re still pretty stupid,” Cole explained.

THE IDEA OF a winter activity where you can get the kids outdoors seemed pretty widespread. At least on the day I went out, most of the fishing groups seemed to have youngsters involved. A frozen lake in the middle of winter, as long as the kids are bundled up for the weather, is a great environment for them. They can either wait by the fishing hole and jig or watch a bobber or tip-up, or run around like wild animals; or they can go to the shelter or the car to warm up – a pretty good deal for all. Todd Derks and his wife Jennifer had their two youngsters, Paxson, 4, and Sage,

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seven months, along with dogs Bodie and Scout, out on Little Campbell, also known as Beer Can Lake, for the day. Derks said that they’d recently shopped a big sale on ice fishing gear at the local Cabela’s store, and bought a shelter, auger and some tackle as a way to get into a family activity for the winter. The lake is close to their home, and if the kids got bored or cold, Jennifer could run them home for a bit while Todd stayed and fished. Nearby, Paul Nitisapon had already caught a pair of good-sized char and was looking for more. He was using jigs and shrimp, salmon eggs and baby clams for bait. His secret weapon was a device called a Jawjacker, an automatic hooking contraption that preloads the fishing rod with tension, then releases when it senses a nibble, setting the hook and ringing a bell to let the angler know a fish is on. Nitisapon really likes the rig, but at $40 a pop, he’s not likely to buy any more of them. Nitisapon is also an aspiring scien-

tist – he’s a student at the Northern Lights ABC (Anchorage Basic Curriculum) School and working on a project for the Alaska State Fair. He said his research so far shows that the best times for fishing tend to coincide with sunrise and moonset, but that he’s got a lot more data to collect. His dad works at the nearby Anchorage airport and can drop him off to fish and stop by during the day Maxton Mitchell uses a depth finder to see where the to check on him. fish are congregating at Delong Lake. (TOM REALE) My last stop for the fishing the lake in the summer. They day was at Sand Lake; at 67 acres, it’s camped out on a hole that they figured the biggest stocked lake in town. There had about 40 feet of water and were I found Jay and Chris Delgado, Josh looking for big char. Wilkins and his daughter, Brooke, setThey like using jigs and shrimp, as well ting up their new shelter and drilling as Dardevle spoons and Mepps spinners. holes with a power auger. As AnchorLike most of the people I talked to, early age natives, these folks had been fishin the day was their preferred time to fish, ing Sand Lake all their lives and picked but Wilkins thinks that the fishing imtheir spots based on their experiences

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proves as the season progresses. “Food is scarce, the fish are hungrier, and the oxygen levels are lower, so I think the fishing is better then,” he said. Fortunately for people new to the sport, there’s lots of good info on the Alaska Department of Fish and Game website (adfg.alaska.gov), which shows which lakes are stocked, when they’re stocked, which species are being released, and also what size fish are put in. This is invaluable info, as there’s no sense fishing for char in a lake that doesn’t have any. Species stocked include rainbow trout, Arctic char, and king and silver salmon. Grayling were stocked in previous years, but due to budget constraints these gorgeous little fish will no longer be raised and released. The department stocks 30 lakes in the Anchorage Bowl, including 10 on the Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson (JBER) military base. According to a notice on the ADFG website, “Fishing on Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson

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These Arctic char were caught by Paul Nitisapon at Beer Can Lake. (TOM REALE)

requires, in addition to a valid State of Alaska fishing license, a Recreational Access Permit. Permits may be obtained online, or at kiosks located in both JBER visitors’ centers.” In addition to the stocking data, perhaps the most valuable information on the site is the collection of bathymetric maps of all the lakes. When talking to

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experienced ice fishers, nearly every one of them mentioned the maps as being the best source they have for deciding exactly where to fish. The maps show the depth contours of the lakes, as well as fish species present, mean and maximum water depth, surface area, and access points. Tim Wilson has been ice fishing the


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Anchorage lakes for about seven years and swears by ADFG’s cartography. “When I use the maps, I look for structure on the lake bottom – spires, ridges, dropoffs and deep holes. I also look for fallen trees sticking out from the ice and I’ll drill a few holes to explore around weed beds too,” he said. “When I find a good spot, I use my power auger and drill in a key pattern out from the shore. If I don’t get bites in 10 to 15 minutes, I move on.” The website also has a complete ice fishing curriculum. Called “A Cure for the Cold, Let’s Go Ice Fishing,” the downloadable PDF covers nearly everything a new angler needs to know, from cold-weather clothing to tackle and bait, ice fishing safety, fish identification, and lots more. It’s geared to youngsters, but has plenty of valuable info for anyone considering taking up the sport.

first making sure it’s safe to do so. While some people feel safe with 2 inches of ice underneath them, most are a bit more conservative, opting to wait until the ice is 4 to 8 inches thick. The Municipality of Anchorage has an online publication, “Winter

SPEAKING OF SAFETY, nobody should venture out onto a frozen lake without

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A sign leads the way to Sand Lake, where, unfortunately, northern pike have been illegally released. (TOM REALE)


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Maxton Mitchell and a landlocked salmon caught at Delong Lake, also near Ted Stevens International Airport. Tom Reale discovered that the attraction Anchorage residents have for ice fishing within the city limits is that it’s an activity their kids can enjoy also. (TOM REALE)

Recreation Trail and Ice Status Report,” which shows the ice thickness at a couple of the lakes in town. While only two of the 30 stocked lakes are listed, it’ll give you a rough idea of when to start thinking about heading out. Go to muni. org, and on the Parks and Recreation page look for the “Ice/Trails Status” link on the left side of the page (click to download the weekly report). Before heading out, check the regs for ice fishing rules. In most instances, each angler can fish with two lines, with one hook or lure on each line. Winter bag and possession limits may vary from summer regs, so be sure to know ahead of time how many fish you can keep. Also, make sure you’ve bought a 2016 license, which is super easy to buy and print out from ADFG’s website. Once you’ve checked all the possibilities of safe ice, adequate gear for the weather and fishing equipment, give hard-water fishing a try. Who knows? You, and a bunch of fish, just might get hooked. ASJ

THE BAY COMPANY In 1967, The Bay Company was established by Dan Roberts in Wrangell, Alaska. In 1979, we bought his small marine business, making it our own family-focused business. In 2004, we had an opportunity to grow and expanded to Craig, on Prince of Wales Island. Beside the recreational boater, we service commercial fishermen, lodges and charter applications. Our services have been grounded by three key components: 1. Complementary strategies providing the best service with factorytrained technicians; 2. Unrivaled customer support from a dedicated sales team; 3. Offering the best brands suited for Southeast Alaska today. These strategies have positioned The Bay Company for a bright future of sustained growth in Southeast Alaska and beyond. With our crew of 10 employees between our two stores, the marine business keeps us busy year-round, selling and servicing Mercury and Yamaha outboard motors, as well as selling and servicing Arctic Cat and Polaris ATVs and snowmobiles. Word of mouth has always been one of our best advertisements. With our attention to detail, work ethic and unrivaled reputation for exceeding customer expectations in Southeast Alaska and all of Alaska, our family-operated business has earned the trust of Alaska’s demanding customers. – Chet and Barbara Powell, The Bay Company

Craig, AK (907)826-3341 68

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FIFTY SHADES

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OF GRAYLING ALASKAN SALMON ARE BEAUTIFUL, THE STATE’S ROCKFISH ARE COLORFUL, BUT NOTHING COMPARES TO THE VIBRANT – AND HIGHLY CATCHABLE – ARCTIC GRAYLING

Grayling occur across mainland Alaska, and the waters of the Interior in particular teem with the sharply dressed species that bites a wide array of lures. (LOUIS CUSACK) aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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BY LOUIS A. CUSACK

L

ike many Alaskans, my wife Ruth and I spend our summers chasing salmon and halibut, filling our freezer and pantry with these great food sources and just having a ball fishing, hiking and camping in Prince William Sound and the lower Kenai Peninsula. But once the leaves begin to turn and the mornings become a little crisper, we start to think of the clear, cold streams of the north and fishing for one of our favorite species. Arctic grayling are often overlooked in Alaska, a state best known for worldclass rainbow trout, pristine salmon rivers and ocean bays that frequently produce barn door-sized halibut, but these

feisty little fighters are easy to hook and just plain old fun to catch. Their insatiable appetite and wide distribution make them a popular sportfish here, especially in the Interior. Because grayling have a tendency to eat almost anything, any fishing technique, including bait, lures and flies, will work at one time or another. Fly anglers love to fish for Arctic grayling because of their willingness to rise to a dry. But just mention grayling fishing to a serious rainbow trout angler and it’s enough to earn you a snarl and a lip curl similar to a pit bull attacking a pound of raw hamburger. It’s a good thing that these guys don’t bite, or at least most of them don’t.

Author Louis Cusack’s wife, “Mrs. Ruth,” has filled plenty of stringers with tasty grayling. Best fresh from the stream, they make for delicious dinners on their float hunts in Alaska’s Interior. (LOUIS CUSACK) 74

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Most of our grayling fishing occurs during the fall. We float rivers to hunt moose and caribou, and many of our camp locations are selected as much for the hunting as they are for the great fishing opportunities. There are few things in life more peaceful than spending an evening casting a lure into a clear stretch of water, watching the sun set and the world go by while angling for these beautiful little fish. In many ways this type of fishing reminds me of the lazy summer days of my youth and fishing for crappie and bluegills with a minnow or a worm and a cane pole on the banks of the Blood River near New Orleans.


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GRAYLING FACTS AND FIGURES GENERAL DESCRIPTION

than that of their cousins (salmon, trout and char), and they sport a unique scalloped edge. The most popular grayling fisheries occur along the road system in Interior Alaska. However, bigger fish are generally caught in less heavily fished areas. The majority of trophy grayling (greater than 3 pounds) registered by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game have come from the Ugashik Lake and the Bristol Bay watershed, as well as river systems

The Arctic grayling (Thymallus arcticus) is one of the most beautiful freshwater fish in Alaska. Its most striking physical features are the large, saillike dorsal fin and colorful body markings. The fish come in a wide array of colors that vary from stream to stream. Their dorsal fins are typically fringed in red and dotted with large iridescent red, aqua or purple spots and markings. These colorful markings are most dramatic on large grayling. Grayling backs are usually dark, while their sides can be black, silver, gold or blue. A band of gold forms a border between their sides and white bellies, which are in sharp contrast to their pelvic fins striated with iridescent orange, red or pink. The sides of the body and head can be freckled with black spots. A black slash lies on each side of the lower jaw. The iris of their eyes is often gold in color. Only their adipose, caudal (tail), pectoral and anal fins are without much color – typically dull and gray. The most popular grayling fisheries are along the road system, but the largest fish are found in the Bristol Bay watershed and near Nome. (MARK CONLIN/USFWS/FLICKR) Their dorsal fin is also larger and thicker

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of the Nome area. The state record – 23 inches long and weighing 5 pounds, 1 ounce – was caught out of the Fish River, on the Seward Peninsula, in 2006 by Peter Cockwill. (The world record has stood for nearly 50 years and is a Northwest Territories fish that was an ounce shy of 6 pounds.)

FAST FACTS

Grayling aren’t doing well at the southern edge of their range. These were captured in southwest Montana by federal fisheries biologists during a monitoring project. (JOHN MOGEN/USFWS)

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Size: Length up to 610 millimeters (24 inches), weight up to 2.3 kilograms (5 pounds, 1 ounce) Range/distribution: Arctic grayling have the largest natural range of any Alaskan sportfish, occupying nearly the whole state, except for Southeast, Kodiak and Aleutian Islands. The species ranges from northwest Europe through Russia’s Ural Mountains across Siberia and Canada to the western side of Hudson Bay, and as far south as Montana and Mongolia. The species has almost disappeared from the Lower 48 because of overfishing, competition from introduced species and habitat loss. Some mountainous Western states, including California and Arizona, stock them in lakes. Lifespan: Up to 32 years (males and females) Diet: Mainly insects, sometimes smaller fish, on occasion voles and shrews. Growth and reproduction: Arctic grayling spawn for the first time between the ages of 4 and 7 years and at a length of about 255 to 305mm (10 to 12 inches.) The eggs are about 2.5mm (a tenth of an inch) in diameter and are slightly heavi-


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er than water, so they sink to the bottom, lodging in between pebbles and gravel. A female, depending on size, may have between 1,500 and 30,000 eggs. Because grayling live up to 32 years in Alaska, they may spawn many times during their life. Grayling fry hatch about three weeks after spawning and are akin to a short 13mm (½-inch) piece of thread with two eyes. They immediately move toward calm and warm shoreline waters, where they grow quickly, reaching a length of 50 to 100mm (2 to 4 inches) by the end of summer. They continue to grow quickly during the next three to six years until they become mature. At this point they begin to grow much more slowly as they dedicate more of their annual energy intake to spawning efforts. -ADFG

ARCTIC GRAYLING ARE not very big fish. They usually average around 10 to 16 inches, but they can grow up to 24 inches and live to be up to 32 years old. The state record was caught on the Seward Peninsula; it was 23 inches long and weighed in at 5 pounds, 1 ounce. In 2013 Ruth caught a grayling that measured a whopping 22½ inches, by far the biggest one we have ever caught. I was able to take a few measurements and pictures, which I used to surprise her with a beautiful replica of her fish. Our taxidermist built it into a tabletop display

With a few pictures and a couple measurements, Ruth’s largest grayling, a 22½-incher, became this beautiful trophy replica that was given to her as a birthday present. (LOUIS CUSACK)

OUTFITTER SATELLITE PHONES Outfitter Satellite has been providing Iridium services to Alaskans for over 17 years. Now, Iridium is launching a new Push-to-Talk (PTT) service that offers unlimited PTT communications amongst groups of PTT users. A monthly fee applies for each PTT handset and for the Talk Group itself, but there are no other PTT usage fees. Talk Group costs scale with the area being covered, which can be as large as 868,000 square miles. The main advantages of the new service are: • small portable handset • optional interoperablity with portable radios • on-the-fly web portal controls Unlike traditional Iridium telephony services, unlimited Push-to-Talk is available for a simple monthly fee. If you still need to make a conventional phone call, text or even allow others to track your position, the Iridium Extreme PTT handset can be changed from PTT-mode to telephony-mode right from the handset’s menu. Our Iridium GO! satellite hotspot lets iPhone or Android smartphones make calls or send texts from anywhere on Earth. SOS and GPS features keep your friends apprised of your location wherever you GO! 1-800-881-8514 • sales@outfittersatellite.com • GPSphones.com

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and Mrs. Ruth could not have been happier. She even seems to have forgotten that her surprise birthday present was only about six months late. Oops! Most rivers and streams above the Arctic Circle see very little fishing pressure. The grayling are hungry and they will readily attack just about anything you throw at them. All a person needs to bring is a couple of their favorite flies or lures and an ultralight fly or spinning rod. Throw in a bag of cornflower, a bottle of Cajun’s Choice Creole seasoning and a little bit of cooking oil and

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When the Cusacks go on an extended adventure, grayling becomes an easy-to-catch and tasty-to-eat meal option. (LOUIS CUSACK)

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you are in for one of the best eating experiences on the river. We use fish to supplement our meals during float

hunts, and fresh grayling is our favorite dinner of the trip. I have heard many people claim that grayling does

not freeze or keep well and that may be in fact a true statement. All that we know is that the firm, white and

You’re probably going to catch a lot of grayling, as in some rivers they are ubiquitous, but for scenery like this it’s probably OK if you aren’t catching fish on every cast. (LOUIS CUSACK)

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flaky meat of a fresh-caught grayling is about the best-tasting fish you will ever wrap lips around.

ARCTIC GRAYLING ARE not only fun to catch and great to eat; they are simply one of the most beautiful freshwater

fish in Alaska. They have a large saillike dorsal fin – typically fringed in red and dotted with large iridescent red,

Daily double! On many of their float hunts, Louis and Ruth Cusack choose camping spots where they will not only find good moose hunting but great grayling action too. (LOUIS CUSACK)

ALASKAN 4 STAR CHARTERS

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Alaskan 4 Star Charters, owned by Jody Mason, has been in business since 2000. Jody started fishing in Whittier in 1977 and fell in love with both its fishing and the sightseeing of the Prince William Sound. Whittier is perched at the head of Passage Canal and only one hour south of Anchorage, making it the closest saltwater fishing grounds to Anchorage. Here, anglers will find all 5 types of salmon, 15 types of rockfish, 4 types of sole and flounder, and of course the mighty halibut. Early season fishing starts May to midJune with some fish being caught in the upper reaches of 100 lbs. From mid-June to August the halibut start to come into the sound in larger numbers, and as the salmon start to enter the sound the fishing gets even better. On July 1, the lingcod season opens; these fish can reach some 70 lbs., and are some of the best eating of all Alaskan saltwater fish. Oh, and don’t forget the sea bass; these fish can reach 20+ lbs. This makes for a nice mix in the fish box on board the AK 4 Star. www.alaskan4starcharters.com


Charter Spotlight KING’S RUN CHARTERS

King’s Run Charters is a locally owned and operated business in the rural town of Ninilchik, Alaska – home to some of the finest halibut and salmon fishing in the world. Owner/fishing guide Larry Cobb is one of the original charter operators in Deep Creek and with his experience and knowledge in sports and commercial fishing, he will make your trip as successful and memorable as ever. At King’s Run Charters, we are here to help you in whatever endeavor you desire. We have lived in and enjoyed Alaska’s unique environment for 35 years and are here for your convenience, comfort and to help customize your adventure. We’d be happy to suggest or refer you to the many differing options and offerings that make Alaska a memorable experience. Sundays are set aside for the Lord and we will not be available for charters that day.

907-567-3373 or 406-942-0679 captaincobb52@gmail.com • www.kingsruncharters.net

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REEL ‘EM INN COOK INLET CHARTERS Located in Ninilchik on the Kenai Peninsula, Reel’em Inn - Cook Inlet Charters offers a complete Alaskan fishing package for anglers looking to try their hand at world-class saltwater halibut and salmon fishing. We offer many services to plan the perfect Alaskan fishing vacation: Saltwater fishing, clean and comfortable lodging, full-service fish processing and packaging, and even a small RV park with full hook-ups. At Reel’em Inn, our guides and deckhands have vast knowledge and experience when it comes to finding and catching fish. But most important is our level of customer satisfaction, making sure your fishing experience is fun, memorable and productive. We feel that your satisfaction is what has kept us in business for over 25 years. You’ll be fishing from our newly updated fleet of custom designed 27-ft. and 28-ft. fishing vessels. These charter boats are fast, reliable, comfortable and safe. Each boat has fully enclosed cabins with clean restroom facilities, a large open fishing deck with custom designed rod holders, and is equipped with state-of-the-art electronics and all Coast Guard required safety equipment. We have Ninilchik charters for serious anglers and beginners. We also welcome families with children. If the child is big enough to hold a pole, we’ll show them a fishing adventure that will be remembered for a lifetime. (800) 447-7335 • WWW.COOKINLETCHARTERS.COM


John Beck happily holds an Arctic grayling, which author Louis Cusack calls the “Jewel of the North River.” (LOUIS CUSACK)

aqua or purple spots and markings. These colorful markings are most dramatic on larger grayling. Their sides can be black, silver, gold or blue. A band of gold forms a border between their sides and white bellies, which are in sharp contrast to their pelvic fins striated with iridescent orange, red or pink. The sides of the body and head can be freckled with black spots, and a black slash lies on each side of the lower jaw. Top all of those features off with a set of irises that are often gold in color and you can clearly see why we call this unique little fish the “Jewel of the North River!” ASJ

BOTTOM LINE CHARTERS

Bottom Line Charters is a family owned and operated company that started 25 years ago. We are a one stop shop for all your fishing and clam digging excursions on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. Our company uses one 30 foot enclosed cab US Coast Guard inspected boats with state of the art electronics. We only use one boat because we want to make sure your trip is enjoyable and beyond your expectations, another feature is when you call us you usually talk directly with the captain.

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Charter Spotlight O’FISH’IAL CHARTERS OF ALASKA We fish all year long, catering to the full-day trophy fisherman, offering state-of-the-art gear and captains that know and love to fish. We launch daily out of Homer, Alaska, for halibut, king salmon, lingcod and more! We strive to give you a fishing experience that you will be talking about for years to come. Located on the Kenai Peninsula (Alaska’s Playground), we are where Alaskans vacation in state. The ocean and volcanic views are truly magical. The images here and memories you create will imprint themselves on you for a lifetime.

World Class Trophy Fishing BIGHALIBUT.COM C-VIEWCABINS.COM

We launch daily for Halibut, King Salmon, and more!

Our Lodging: Located 20 minutes from Homer in Anchor Point, our lodging is the place to begin your Alaskan adventure. Our vacation cabins are on the bluff and offer unobstructed views of the ocean, volcanoes and world-class sunsets over the Cook Inlet. From the private 5-acre retreat you can see Alaskan wildlife and we’re a mile to fishing on the Anchor River. 907-299-6991 www.bighalibut.com www.c-viewcabins.com

Call us now for 10% off early season specials! Located at 4025 Homer Spit Rd. Homer, AK 99603 on the Homer Shores Boardwalk


Charter Spotlight AFISHUNT CHARTERS If you want to enjoy the best of Alaska’s fishing with the finest of fishing outfitters, you have found the right place. Since 1992, Afishunt Charters has offered premium Alaska fishing charters for halibut and salmon and has become famous for our legendary customer service, outstanding equipment and reasonable prices. With seven boats, we span the entire Kenai Peninsula, the heart of Alaska’s prime fishing grounds. Choose giant halibut in Cook Inlet, arm-numbing king salmon in the Kasilof or Kenai Rivers, or acrobatic silvers in Seward – we do it all! From single-day trips to multi-day packages with lodging, we offer the widest variety of fishing opportunities. If you need a place to stay, check out our cabins and RV sites at Alaskan Angler RV Resort. We can provide the widest variety of fishing experience for you and your group. Whether you want a single day of ocean fishing for barn-door halibut or a week-long package including ocean, river and fly-in excursions, we “can do” for you. We now have four ocean boats plying the waters of Cook Inlet from Deep Creek and Resurrection Bay from Seward, including the largest 10-person boats in Ninilchik. Enjoy a serene drift boat trip on the Kasilof River in one of our three drift boats, or take a powerboat trip on the world-famous Kenai River for lunker king salmon.

800-347-4114 • www.afishunt.com

PHANTOM TRI-RIVER CHARTER Phantom Tri-River Charters is your final destination for Alaskan fishing tours. Our goal is to ensure that you have an excellent fishing trip and we want to help you create memories that will last a lifetime. A fishing tour with us is “where dreams become reality!” Located between Anchorage and Denali National Park, Phantom Tri-River Charters is known for combining the peacefulness of the open water and the thrill of a destination fishing trip into one single package, where you’ll have the opportunity to cast your line like never before. We fish a variety of different salmon types, including sockeye, silvers, chums, kings and pinks, as well as a number of other fish variations, which include rainbow trout, Dolly Varden, arctic grayling and more. We’ll provide all of the freshwater gear you need to get your line baited and in the water, making it easy to enjoy your trip while reaping the benefits of a bountiful habitat. The catch rate on our trips is superb and you’re sure to reel in a catch that you can be proud to show off!

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Charter Spotlight

J&J SMART CHARTERS

J&J SMART CHARTERS

HALIBUT AND SALMON FISHING CHARTER

DEEP CREEK VIEW CAMPGROUND FAMILY-OWNED CAMPGROUND

J&J Smart Charters is a family-run business. John and Joan Smart have lived in Alaska since 1989 and started J&J Smart Charters in 1992 with Captain John as the main captain. 2012 was their 20th anniversary of chartering on Cook Inlet in Ninilchik, Alaska. They purchased Deep Creek View Campground in 1995 and have been providing unique camping experiences and enjoyment in Ninilchik for many years. The entire crew at J&J Smart Charters are great individuals who love what they do and it shows! We look forward to another incredible year! www.smartcharters.com

• Operating for over 20 years • Located off Sterling Highway (Mile 136.2) in Ninilchik on the bluff overlooking Cook Inlet • Incredible view of snow-covered volcanoes, soaring Eagles, and spectacular sunsets • U.S. Coast Guard licensed captains and deckhands • Family friendly campground with grassy tent camping areas, electrical hookups, dump station DQG ZDWHU ¿ OO XS VKRZHUV DQG EDWKURRPV DQG D variety of cabins to choose from Ninilchik, Alaska 1-888-HALIBUT • www.smartcharters.com • info@smartcharters.com

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Charter Spotlight ALASKAN SUMMERTIME CHARTERS Come fishing with Alaskan Summertime Charters! We are a small, family-owned sport fishing company operating out of beautiful Resurrection Bay in Seward, Alaska. Jon Tippit, owner/operator, has been fishing these waters for the last 23 years. People often ask him if he'll ever get tired of running charters and the answer is a resounding “No! It's a different trip every day; I meet great people in a beautiful place. I love what I'm doing!" Our boats are fast yet comfortable, accommodate six passengers each, and are operated by experienced USCG licensed captains. Each vessel has comfortable cabin seating with a private marine head/restroom. We offer halibut, salmon, rockfish or combo fishing trips, as well as sightseeing or whale watching. On any given day, a variety of wildlife can be seen alongside the spectacular scenery of Alaskan coastal waters. If you're considering a fishing trip in June, give us a call – we have a great early season special. The fishing is great and so are the rates! Our goal is to not only get our clients their fishing limit but to also leave them with a memorable experience that will bring them back again and again. See us on Yelp and Trip Advisor. 866-245-7650 • www.alaskansummer.com

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HOOKY CHARTERS Hooky Charters specializes in guided world-class king salmon, silver salmon, halibut and rainbow trout fishing trips in Kenai, Alaska! We have 38 years of experience fishing here on the “world famous” Kenai River and Cook Inlet. We work hard to turn your Alaskan guided fishing trip into not only a catching trip, but an enjoyable and exciting experience that will provide a lifetime of memories. Want to experience more of Alaska? Besides our fishing charters, we offer several other activities to keep you busy during your stay in Alaska, including scenic fly out fishing/bear viewing trips, rafting trips, hiking and clam digging. We want to make your Alaskan fishing trip as enjoyable as possible. Therefore, we want to help you with any other ideas for activities and reservations. Hooky Charters also offers lodging. Contact us today! We will customize the ultimate Alaskan trip for you! 907-283-9026 • www.hookycharters.com


SMALL-WATER STEELHEAD

Small steelhead streams line the rim of the North Pacific, providing occasional hook-ups, as well as solitude and rejuvenation. Recovering from medical treatment a couple winters ago, Randy Prock enjoyed an outing on this small coastal stream, while son Barrett snapped the pic and friend Carl Lewallen sent it to us. (NORTHWEST SPORTSMAN)

BY TERRY WIEST

O

ne thing I’ve always enjoyed is hooking steelhead in small streams and rivers. By small, I’m talking about bodies of water that I can generally cast all the way across – sometimes, almost jump – or at least wade across. Over the years, some of my favorites have included the Cedar near Renton, Wash., Moose near Terrace, British Columbia, the Elochoman on the Lower Columbia and Alaska’s upper Situk River. You won’t find any boats on these rivers and streams. Nope, it’s back to the basics of walking the bank and searching for fish. I love it!

THE LAST SEVERAL seasons I’ve been part of the float fishing craze, and there are a few places where I’ll definitely pull out my bobbers, jigs or worms on these small waters and others. But what I really like going back to are the basics of drift fishing ultralight gear and presentations. Corkies and yarn were my bread and butter as a teenage steelheader, and I enjoy hooking fish with nothing more than these set-ups. One of my favorites is a pearl-pink Corky, a very small pinch of pink yarn and a No. 4 hook. If that doesn’t work, I switch to a peach Corky with peach yarn. No eggs, no shrimp, no scent. Pretty basic, and it works. Something new I’m using in small streams are steelhead beads. A single 8mm or 10mm bead tagged 1 to 1½ inches aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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With their generally clearer flows, it pays to downsize and go light for small stream natives. (TERRY WIEST)

above a No. 4 hook, either drift fished or sometimes under a float if the water’s deep enough for it, has joined my arsenal. I like the pinks/peaches and natural colors for trying to make it appear like an egg that has came loose from a redd. My drift rod of choice has sure changed. My first was a Shimano 8-foot-6 graphite rod that I thought was the bomb – it was graphite, after all! Push some 40 years ahead and you’ll find me toting the new G.Loomis IMX 1103-2C. Talk about a sweet rod, I can feel a fly land on my gear with it – well, maybe. Sensitivity is key with small water, as you don’t have much choice but to bounce bottom because most of the time the “hole” will be less than 3 feet deep. Deeper than that and out comes the float fishing gear. Match the IMX up with a Shimano Chronarch CI4+ and you have a match made in heaven. Technology has come so far – it’s just amazing how smooth these reels are. Load the rod up with 10-pound mainline and use 6-pound leader. A small piece of lead should be used to just tick bottom. Your pearl pink or peach Corky should be small, as in size 12 or 14. And when I say a pinch of yarn, it really should only be that. I never have the yarn longer than the shaft of the hook, and most times it’s only 1/8 to ¼ inch long. An important step which I truly believe in – though many will disagree with me – is to always trim the yarn. I want it straight across at the bottom, with no long fibers trailing behind. After a few casts I’ll trim it again. If you use bait (and if it’s legal), then the Corky and yarn aren’t as important. They’ll help provide a little eye appeal, and help it float, but with the low water of these streams you don’t 94

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necessarily want it to float. With these types of waters I prefer no bait. Occasionally, I will, however, put a drop of scent on the yarn, which is considered bait, but it doesn’t alter the appearance of my presentation.

ONE THING THAT can be deceiving is the power of the water. Even in small streams, caution must be exercised, along with some common sense. Most of my falls while fishing have occurred in shallow water, where I’m not as cautious. Big mistake. So far I’ve only had only two injuries – a torn ACL and broken finger – but things could be worse, much worse. I’ve also gone under twice, but thank God both times I was able to get my footing while being dragged downstream. Accidents happen. To help me out a little now, I make sure and wear high-quality waders with a wading belt, and wading boots with spiked bottoms. I use Simms G3 or G4 waders, which are ultracomfortable and don’t hinder my movement, and Simms Freestone boots. New to me this year, I also carry a Simms wading staff. It’s the small size of rivers and streams that attract me. Usually there are not as many people on them, mostly because you have to hike, especially to get to untouched water. But it can be truly rewarding, not only in terms of fish hooked, but also the peace that the solitude of being one with nature brings. ASJ Editor’s note: Author Terry Wiest has written widely about steelhead and salmon fishing, is a published author and operates both Salmonuniversity.com and Steelheadu.com.


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Sometimes you need to make an equipment change from a fly rod (storing it in your backpack) to a spinning rod and reel, which Conor Sullivan’s father Tim and brother Rory did in wind and high water while chasing Alaskan salmon. (CONOR SULLIVAN)

FLY ROD OR SPIN GEAR? WITH SILVERS AND EVER-CHANGING ALASKAN WATER CONDITIONS, A FLEXIBLE APPROACH WILL PAY OFF

BY CONOR SULLIVAN

W

hen I moved to Kodiak several years ago, it was just in time for the silver salmon run. So naturally, my first question was, “When should I fly fish and when

should I bring the spinning rod?” I love fly fishing, but there are times when it just cannot compete with eggs or lures, and walking past other anglers who have filled their limit on them can be very frustrating. Likewise, those bluebird days in August are tough conditions aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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if I only bring my spinning rod. Six years later, I still face the same question. The easy answer is to bring both, but certain times – whether you are hiking away from your truck or limited by air travel – decisions have to be made. Silvers begin their annual freshwater migration in August and will continue well into October. The second largest of the five northeast Pacific salmon species, they represent the entire package: big, hard fighters, tasty, and they will chase down lures with reckless abandon. However, their migration season will cover a large variety of river conditions – from near-drought in late summer to high-wa-

Author Conor Sullivan used a fly rod to land this silver in extremely low water using small, subtle flies. Higher water means spin gear, but with less water Sullivan opts to cast flies. (CONOR SULLIVAN)

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Anglers planning on fishing silvers in Alaska should prepare for maximum flexibility. Fly rods and spinning gear can both be your ticket to a limit, but each work best in specific water conditions. (CONOR SULLIVAN)

ter blowouts following the first big storm of the fall. Let’s take a look at a few scenarios to pick the best tool for the job.

LATE SUMMER, LOW WATER This past August was marked by unusually low water conditions, combined with a massive amount of pink salmon in the river systems. This warm, low oxygen combination made the fish congregate exclusively in the deepest holes, and discouraged the main body of the silver run from pushing up the river. It seemed like the ratio was 300-to-1 between pinks and silvers, so while there were silvers to be caught, you had to fight through

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the mass of pinks. My weapon of choice for low water is the fly rod. Except at dawn, the fishery involves a lot of sight-casting, as I can watch the salmon follow and strike my fly. If it was a pink, I just let the fish bite and then spit out the fly. If it was a silver, it got a solid hook set. In low water, the big flashy lures and flies are sometimes too much for the more wary salmon. A scaled-back fly in subtle colors that can be worked through the deep holes – particularly on the incoming tides – is my best option for success. One costly lesson to remember is to be careful landing pink salmon on a fly rod. I have broken numerous fly rods on salmon, and all but one has been on a pink salmon. Rod failure can be caused by two major factors. After inadvertently hooking yet another “zombie” pink, my natural inclination is to quickly get the fish in. But these fish have a lot of fight and will literally battle to the death. Secondly, once beached,

These silvers were caught later in the season, fooled not with flies but spoons and eggs on spinning gear. (CONOR SULLIVAN)

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pinks do not stop flopping. This will either cause the angler to “high stick� or allow the fish to get back into the river and make a quick getaway. Either way is bad news for a wispy rod.

THE FIRST BIG STORM No other group of people pay as much attention to rainfall amounts as river anglers. Following a period of low water, having a big storm come through is great news. Not only will it clean out the rotting pink salmon soup that has been stinking up the rivers, but it draws in the first big slug of silvers. The river will rise and perhaps be unfishable for a short period, but as it begins to show the first sign of dropping, it’s time to stow the fly rod and break out the spinning rods. To be fair, I have had some great success with fly fishing high water, but it involves sinking lines, weighted flies and sore shoulders. Often, a more effective technique is to switch to eggs or hardware, as the scent or vibration gives the salmon a better chance to hone in on your hook. I could write pages on egg fishing but will hit a couple key points. Silvers can seek out eggs in even the murkiest waters. I usually fish uncured eggs, mostly because I have grown tired of dying my fingernails pink in the curing process, but also because fresh eggs work really well. They will last for about a week in the fridge, although if fishing is good they won’t be in there too long. Add just enough weight to tick the bottom and gingerly lob out a quarter-size chunk into known holes. Regardless of the water clarity, eggs will draw any hungry fish in. Once they pick up the bait, don’t be in a rush to set the hook; just let it come tight and set the hook once you feel the weight of the fish.

KEEP YOUR SUNNY SIDE UP The downside of eggs is that you can’t do too much exploratory fishing with them. If you are working an unknown stretch of river, it is time to tie on the ubiquitous spinner or spoon. The sound, flash and color in high-water conditions are exactly what silvers are looking for. I had some great success with spoons last year. I didn’t have to do much more than keep the line tight and swing it downstream. It is an effective way to cover water and get a feel for which eddies or sloughs are holding fish. Additionally, the strikes on lures are often explosive, as these fish take it as a personal insult that your Pixie swung past their faces. Silver season is a magical time. Each one is a little different, and to be successful you have to adapt to the prevailing conditions. If you exclusively throw spinners, or if flies are your thing, there will be days that you just can’t connect and you will go home with as many fish as you started with. Stay flexible and read the river conditions, and if what you are casting is not working, try something new. ASJ



Best of Kodiak KODIAK GUIDES Alaska’s Kodiak Guides, owned and operated by Master Guide Jim Bailey, has been in operation for over 35 years on privately owned land at Kizhuyak Bay on Kodiak Island. Jim is a commercial pilot and has a master marine license. The camp is situated on three privately owned acres and consists of four cabins, oil heat stoves, showers, and a full-time cook. We fly out of Kodiak to the campsite, hunt on foot, boating to the established trails in nearby canyons. Each hunting season we see lots of bears and it is a productive area; Alaska’s Dept. of Fish & Game does a very good job counting bears in all areas of Kodiak. We hunt one-on-one (one guide for each hunter), fair chase. Since this is a drawing permit hunt, deadlines for applications are Dec. 1 and May 1. No one can be 100% successful, but our success rate is high. -Jim Bailey, Kodiak Guides

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The black bear might not carry the same reputation as its more celebrated colleague the brown, but it serves as a motivation for author Jeff Lund to hunt. (JEFF LUND)

BEARS IN MIND AS SPRING SEASON AND A ‘FORK’ IN HIS HUNTING ROAD APPROACHES, AN ALASKAN BRUIN HUNTER DEBATES CHASING BROWN OR BLACK BEARS BY JEFF LUND

P

hilosopher and paper salesman Jim Halpert, aka The Office’s John Krasinski, once asked, “Which bear is best?” A member of his enraptured audience opined that the question was ridiculous, to which Halpert responded, “False. Black bear.”

It is a little ridiculous because how can one define which bear is best? Is it size? Claws? Best story to tell at a campfire? If you’re a hunter, once you get a black bear, do you just move on up to a grizzly, then Kodiak brown? Once you’ve pulled off the trifecta, then what? aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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“I know I’ll go after another bear but try not to get too caught up in what was best because it’s all about the context of the specific adventure,” Lund writes. (JEFF LUND)

Is it about the method? Those who chased blacktail deer with a rifle then tried a bow often say there is no other way in terms of rich adrenaline. But that’s a deer. This is a bear. The oblivious deer on the side of an alpine slope is eating leafy greens. The oblivious bear on grassy flats is eating grass, but it could eat you. Shot placement goes from important to absurdly crucial, unless you like walking through thick underbrush after a wounded bear. So maybe black bear is best in that regard. My high school basketball coach and hunting buddy was stalked by a brown bear. Well, maybe he wasn’t stalked; may110

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be the bear that started toward the truck he and his buddies were driving on a hunt on Admiralty Island was just curious. But it’s difficult to interpret intent, and it’s not exactly something on which you can ask for clarity. I shot a black bear last spring – my first ever. I thought I was pretty cool until the editor and chief of my journalism class said she shot one when she was 10. “You hadn’t shot a bear yet, Lund?” Dang. Maybe I’m just a bad Alaskan. My bear didn’t take a step. I approached the furry heap, poked it and took a breath. I took the hide to a taxidermist and ground the meat for


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As another season approaches, the author hopes for more such moments of success while hunting bears. (JEFF LUND)

bear burgers.

SPRING BLACK BEAR season is approaching, and who knows what I’ll do. I feel like I’m at a fork in the hunting road. There are areas of Southeast Alaska I can get an over-the-counter tag for black and brown bear. Last year there were a bunch of bears eating whale carcasses on beaches a short boat ride from town. They were easy prey for hunters. It was like nature’s bait station. There is the temptation to move on to a brown bear. It sounds a little like the premise for antihunter arguments – the whole kill one thing, then move onto the next – but it’s pretty true. If you’re passionate about something, there is always a deer level with which you must concern yourself. To

MARCH 2016 | aksportingjournal.com

the outsider it seems illogical, irrational, irresponsible or flat out wrong. The casual runner doesn’t sign up for an ultramarathon in Death Valley. The passionate – or psychotic, depending on your perspective – do. For the same reason, a passionate hiker must come to terms with the pull of Denali or Everest, a trout fisherman must manage the pang of Patagonia browns or bonefish in Belize. Do I want to tempt myself with another vortex? Or is experiencing hunting with the depth which I explore fishing just subcategories in a larger passion for the outdoors? I surely don’t know.

NICK LYONS WROTE, “It’s a challenge for a lot of us to be content.” The problem might be the conno-


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It’s not the size of the critter, or the particular species; it’s the adventure that matters for the author. (JEFF LUND)

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tation some create for contentment. It can be interpreted as stagnant. It can represent the lack of zeal. In a world increasingly obsessed with bigger, faster, stronger and more interesting or minimalistic methods of pursuit, it’s hard to settle into a routine without seeing it as a plateau. After all, what’s the point of going down that road? Where does it end? Is it an unquenchable thirst for something that can’t be satisfied with another fish, a bigger fish, another bear, a bigger bear or a bear with a bow? I have no answers. I guess it’s just a matter of being comfortable with how you put it all together, what you decide to chase and why. I know I’ll go after another bear but I try not to get too caught up in what’s best because it’s all about the context of the specific adventure. There’s something in there about it being about the process and the individual definition of ambiguous words. The world of outdoorsing is pretty simple; it just gets muddied up with ridiculous questions with no real answer, and the only one to whom you really have to answer is yourself. ASJ Editor’s note: Jeff Lund is the author of Going Home, a memoir about fishing and hunting in Alaska and California. For details, visit JeffLundBooks.com.


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There’s a lot to be said about do-it-yourself hunting, whether it be for Sitka blacktail, caribou or other species, but going guided can provide immense satisfaction as well. Not all outfitters are created equal, however, so the more research and questions you ask, the more informed you’ll be. (PAUL D. ATKINS)


GIMME 15 REASONS WHY I SHOULD BOOK WITH YOU PLANNING TO HUNT IN ALASKA? AN EXPERT SHARES MUST-ASK QUESTIONS BEFORE YOU HIRE AN OUTFITTER BY PAUL D. ATKINS

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ext to putting on a dry pair of socks after a long day on the tundra, there is nothing better than the beginning of a hunt – nothing. The anticipation of what is to come and what can happen is almost as good as Christmas. You have all the gear you need, your bow is dead on and you’ve researched and found the perfect spot. Somewhere out there is the animal of your dreams, and with a little luck you’re destined to meet it. As most hunters know, there are basically two types of hunts that a person can participate in: Either you pay and go guided, or you do it yourself and go unguided. Even though each offers a different path, it doesn’t really matter which you choose; it’s still hunting and the quality of any hunt is what you put into it. I have been asked many times, “Which is better, being guided or doing it yourself?” That is easy to answer for some of us, but for others it might not be. I have been lucky enough to take most of my animals with bow and rifle on do-it-yourselftype hunts, but there have been times that I wished I had a guide with me. There is a great deal of satisfaction in doing it yourself, especially when all your efforts combined with a little luck come together, resulting in that monster of your dreams. Believe me, there is nothing more satisfying in the hunting world. Some hunters prefer it this way, and for others it is the only option. Guided hunts can also provide that same satisfaction. A hunter still has to be out there trudging up and down mountains or crossing rivers, trying to find what they’re looking for. The anticipation is the same and the physical effort isn’t any different. The big difference, however, is that these hunts are conducted by an outfitter or a safari company and you’ll have a guide. You basically are paying them for their service and all the prep work has been done for you. They’ve scouted for you, hung stands, placed blinds and hopefully know exactly what the animals are doing long before you get there. In addition, but not always, they will provide food and accommodations. You basically are paying for their expertise, land access and the use of their equipment.

NOT ALL GUIDED hunts are created equal, however. You are relying on the guide’s credentials, and the more research you do about an outfitter, the better off you will be. One of the best guided hunts that I’ve ever been on was for mountain lion in Arizona. The guide was world renowned for getting hunters their lion and had a 100-percent success rate, a pretty rare feat these days. I was a bit wary of perfect record, aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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so I called the references he provided, and, sure enough, all were successful. I actually racked up quite a phone bill and eventually got tired of calling people. But most outfitters are not 100 percent on kills; if they tell you they are, I would be immediately suspect of their operation. Bottom line: get references, both successful and not successful, and make the calls. Many hunters who are new to the guided game (and even some of us old timers) may not know exactly what to ask about or do when it comes to researching an outfit. There are many factors that go into any hunt and the success of that hunt depends greatly on the question-and-answer session. Remember that it’s your responsibility to get as many details as possible before mailing the cashier’s check. It can and will be the difference between a great time and a disaster. First and foremost you need to remember that it’s still hunting, and

One way to find potential outfitters is to attend winter’s many sportsmen’s shows. They present an opportunity to talk in person with operators. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

Finding the right outfit is so important. Not only are you paying for their services, but in most cases and most times you are dependent on them during the entire hunt, putting your life in their hands continuously. Hunters need to remember that guides and outfitters make their livelihoods on booked hunts and are not there to do it all. Hunters need to do their part as well. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

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If you book a guided hunt and it states that it will be a camp-type hunt, be sure and check out all the details. Two questions that come to mind are, “What do I bring in terms of gear and what will the weather be like?” (PAUL D. ATKINS)

if it’s fair chase, you might connect or you might not. Factors such as weather and/or the time of the rut, for example, can come into play and prevent a hunter from connecting; it’s all part of the game. Most first-timers to the guided game sometimes forget that, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have expectations. Before even looking at potential outfitters, hunters should create a list of priorities – those things that you expect and want from the experience. I usually make a checklist long before I get on the phone; that way I will know what exactly to ask and can also make a few notes. A few years ago I decided that I wanted to hunt mountain goats, the last animal on my Alaska list and also the toughest. It was something I could do on my own if only I had goats in my area, but I do not, so a guided hunt was in order. Unlike choosing the right broadhead or rifle for a particular hunt, the species a hunter plans to pursue will greatly influence whether you decide to go guided or try it yourself. For me, this is the biggest factor. Goat hunting is not for the meek and is considered by many the toughest hunt in North America. Choosing the right outfit – and even more so, the right guide – is critical. Choosing the right outfit doesn’t only apply to goats. Most all species here in Alaska can and will be outfitted. Whether it’s caribou, moose or brown bear, there are outfits that will set you up for adventure.

AFTER DECIDING ON the species and the area you want to hunt, you will then need to choose a few prospective outfitters. This can be a challenge in itself. Personally, I talk to hunters who have hunted the specific animal before, read magazines, look at record books or go to some of the trade shows. I also subscribe to the Hunting Report (huntingreport.com), an online database that lists the good, the bad and the ugly of the hunting world. This usually will narrow it down to a few specific outfits that have good reputations. I then contact these outfits 120

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Alaskan mountain goat hunts are expensive, as the billies are highly coveted and on many hunters’ wish lists. Booking with the right guide combined with being in great physical shape will make this dream come true. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

and ask the questions that I have prepared. Creating a list of questions before getting on the phone is a must; this way you won’t forget what is important and you can take a few notes. My goat questions could be used for most hunts, but here is what to consider with the following queries:

1. Do you have references? Most good outfits do and hunters need to be sure and get the contacts for both successful and unsuccessful hunters who have hunted with them. If they do not want to provide this information, then immediately strike them off your list.

2. How many years’ experience do you have as an outfitter, and what is the experience level of your guides? Experience is a plus, but don’t count out young or up-and-coming guides and outfitters. Many of the new outfits are trying to make their mark and will work extra hard to make your hunt as successful 122

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as possible.

3. What are game numbers like? If you want to hunt an animal and be successful, you have to travel to where they are. Knowing what the area holds gives you a better perspective of what you might and might not see. 4. How many hunters do you take a year? I personally stay away from areas that are hunted hard. Due to the sheer size of Alaska, six goat hunters a year versus six bear hunters per week at a bear camp are quite a bit different, but the bottom line is you don’t want to spend your hard-earned cash on a place that has been depleted. 5. What do you charge for a goat hunt? Are the tags and license included? Is there a trophy fee? This is the ultimate question for many. Most hunters are always trying to ďŹ nd a good deal – I know I am – but sometimes cheaper hunts have a catch and it usually involves extracur-

ricular things, such as accommodations, meals, etc. This is where research and phone calls will come into play. Ask the questions speciďŹ cally relating to the ďŹ ner details of the hunt. Most tags and license will need to be taken care of by the hunter. I have seen very few hunts where these were included. Trophy fees are fees attached to the cost only after you have killed an animal. Make sure you ask this question.

6. Do I need to draw a tag or is it over the counter? Most resident bowhunters can buy tags over the counter, however if you’re a nonresident, you will usually have to apply. Most outďŹ tters who are worth their salt will help the hunter with this information, and most will help you apply.

7. What are the accommodations like? I have experienced all kinds of situations – everything from bivouac to wall tents and ďŹ ve-star lodges with seven-course meals. All were great, but if you are

Many clients develop friendships with their outďŹ tter and/or the guide. These friendships last forever, and in many cases the hunter will go again and again with the same guide. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

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looking for a specific type of setup, again, you will need to ask. Some hunters like to rough it, while others do not.

To hunt grizzlies, wild sheep and mountain goats in Alaska, nonresidents are required to hire a guide (or go with a relative who is a resident of the state). That’s not cheap and is why research is a must and should be done carefully. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

8. What is the guide to hunter ratio? Hunts are usually conducted 1-by-1 or 2-by-1. One-by-one means that there will be you, the hunter, and one guide. Two-by-one means that one guide will serve two hunters. I have done it both ways and can say that either option is great. In some cases, if you choose to go 2-by-1, the outfitter will give you a substantial price break. I personally like the 1-by-1 situations, only because I want the guide focused totally on me and getting the job done. Call me selfish, but if I’m specifically hunting a particular species, I don’t want it any other way. 9. What is the actual success rate on shot opportunities? Most hunters get too tied up in percentage kill, and good outfitters won’t tell you anyway; they can’t. What they will tell you is the number

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of shot opportunities their hunters had last year or over the years. Killing something is up to the bowhunter and his ability to do so. If a guide gets you into position to make the shot on a bull or buck, then that is about all you can ask for.

10. What are the physical requirements of the hunt? This is probably one of the most overlooked and underrated questions on the list. Some hunts are easy, and others are not. Bowhunting from a blind is quite a bit different than hunting thousands of feet above sea level. Mountain hunts are physically and mentally tough, and if you’re not in shape, any good outfitter will tell you to stay home. It doesn’t mean you have to stay home. The earlier you get this information, the sooner you can start the training regimen you need to be successful. Paul Atkins is an accomplished hunter of big game in remote Alaska, but even he has to do his homework when planning outings in his home state. Make sure you have all the variables in place when deciding what adventure is best for you. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

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11. How will we be hunting? Most species-specific hunts will dictate the


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hunting style. Hunting goats will be climb-and-stalk hunting, while bowhunting deer will be from a stand, blind or, in some cases, spot and stalk. I’ve had some hunts where I was able to choose. This is especially great if something isn’t working and you want to try something new.

12. What if I have to cancel the hunt for whatever reason? Most outfitters have a general policy when it comes to canceling a hunt. Most hunts are booked by sending a deposit, which usually runs 50 percent of the total cost. If you have to cancel, you will usually lose that deposit, or in some cases outfitters will let you rebook entirely, but not always. Some require you to find a replacement to fill that spot and rebook you the following year. Hunters need to remember that outfitters and guides make their living guiding hunters and these policies are necessary in order for them to survive.

13. Can I add extra days to the hunt?

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Some hunts can be extended for whatever reason. The biggest reason is that the hunter hasn’t connected or found the right animal yet. If the outfitter agrees and you have the time to stay, you should, but remember that it will cost extra.

14. Do you have a wounded animal policy? Most outfitters do. Usually, if you draw blood, then that is your animal and your hunt is done. It’s our responsibility to make quick ethical shots each and every time; if we don’t, then it’s our fault and the opportunity is gone. Again, if you do pull a shot and wound an animal, top outfitters will do everything possible to find it.

THESE QUESTIONS ARE the “biggies,” but there are many more that are just as important – like making travel arrangements. What type of clothes and gear you will need should also be asked about. Asking these questions and getting prepared for the hunt are all part of the fun. Going on a guided hunt is a great experience, and in some cases can create lifelong friendships with outfitters and guides. Many hunters will return year after year because of the way they were treated and the sheer joy they had with the experience. If your plans include a guided hunt, be sure to follow the rules and do your homework. Success is just as much your responsibility as it is your outfitter’s. ASJ

15. How are you different from other outfitters? I have heard all kinds of answers, but the most common is, “We will give you 100 percent during your hunt and do everything possible to make it successful.” That is about all you can ask for.

MARCH 2016 | aksportingjournal.com

Editor’s note: Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and author from Kotzebue, Alaska. He has written hundreds of articles on big game hunting in Alaska, Africa and throughout North America. Paul is a monthly contributor to Alaska Sporting Journal.


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When you’re here, you’re one of us! Trail Lake Lodge is the quintessential down-home, feel-good place that serves as the core of your experience in the heart of the Chugach mountains and the Chugach National Forest. Welcoming and good-natured, the lodge is like an old friend who tells a few tall tales and won’t mind hearing a few more. It’s not white glove service, more like field gloves and warm mittens, but you’re family at Trail Lake Lodge and it’s our pleasure to make your stay exciting, comfortable and hassle-free. Located within twenty miles of the Kenai and Russian Rivers, thirty miles from the Kenai Fjords National Park, Resurrection Bay and the Gulf of Alaska, we’re proud to deliver the best services in the most incredible setting Mother Nature has to offer. Find us in Moose Pass, Alaska at Mile marker 29.5 of the Seward Highway. Whether it is winter or summer we take care of every detail for your truly memorable stay at Trail Lake Lodge. www.traillakelodge.com


FIELD

Scott Haugen has hunted all over the world, and ranks Alaska’s diverse habitats as the toughest. Being in shape for fall hunting season is critical to safety and success, so your workouts should start now. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

SHAPE UP

OR FADE OUT SPEND YOUR OFFSEASON WORKING OUT TO PREPARE FOR ALASKA’S GRUELING HUNTS BY SCOTT HAUGEN

T

oday is the best time to start physically preparing for this year’s hunting seasons in Alaska, whether you’re a resident or plan on traveling there. The top tip for a successful big game hunt is simple: Be in shape. I was a four-sport athlete in high school and also played some college football. I started working out in 1979 when I was a freshman in high school, and I have been a dedicated weightlifter

ever since. As a full-time outdoorsman, I have to be in shape for hunts that take me throughout Alaska and around the globe on a year-round basis. I also want to be in shape.

WORK OUT AT YOUR PACE The hunter-athlete-fitness craze has reached new heights in recent years, and I receive lots of questions and comments about it. The primary concern I hear is, “I feel like I have to be professional bodybuilder or marathon runner

to be an effective hunter, and there’s no way I can get to that level.” I also get lots of questions as to what I personally do to stay in shape. First of all, don’t feel like you have to pump iron four hours a day and build ripped muscles, then take selfies at each workout to let everyone know how you look or what you’re doing. And don’t think you have to run marathons in order to find success in the woods. That’s not to downplay those who work very hard to reach these levels and share how they’re getting there, but the bottom line is, the better shape you’re in, the greater your chances of succeeding on those tough hunts.

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FIELD

THIS POWER BALL IS A SURE WINNER almond or hazelnut flour, simply process in a food processor or mini-chopper until nuts are coarsely ground. Kids love to help make these and once baked, the treats travel and keep well. POWER BALLS 1 cup honey or agave nectar 1 cup nut butter (peanut, cashew or almond) 1 cup powdered milk or whey protein powder ½ cup coconut flour or cocoa powder 1 cup brown rice flour, oat or barley flour ½ cup rolled oats, spelt, barley, triticale or wheat ½ cup wheat germ or flax meal ½ cup almond or hazelnut meal/flour 1 cup dried cranberries and/or raisins, chopped Using a standing mixer or food processor, combine all ingredients until mixture forms a ball. Form into desired sizes, no larger than 1 inch in diameter. Roll in additional almond or hazelnut meal/flour if desired. Power balls can be eaten as is, making a chewier, stickier treat; or you can bake five to six minutes at 325 degrees to firm them up.

BY TIFFANY HAUGEN

N

o matter where you’re hunting in Alaska, that’s no excuse to eat junk food. Many prepackaged foods may be easier to buy and consume, but eventually they take their toll on our health. Hunting, especially in demanding Alaska, is an active sport. It requires your body to be kept properly nourished and hydrated. Next time you plan a hunt, bring along some healthy, homemade snacks that are sure to keep your energy up and your empty

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calories down. This power ball recipe was developed to replace nutrient-deficient ingredients with better alternatives. My motivation is trying to get extra fiber and protein into the diets of my kids and my on-the-go husband. It’s working; they all prefer my creations to those that come in a shiny wrapper, and Scott really likes taking along several to snack on during extended hunting trips. The combination of ingredients in this power-packed snack is endless. It’s an easy recipe to experiment on with many types of flours. To make your own

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Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany Haugen’s popular, healthy cookbook, The Power of Flour, send a check for $19.95 ( f r e e S&H), to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489, or visit tiffanyhaugen.com.


BEST OF ALASKA LODGES FISHING BEAR CHARTERS Welcome to Tenakee Springs on Chichagof Island in Southeast Alaska. This beautiful emerald island, located between Juneau and Sitka, Alaska, is the home of Fishing Bear Charters, owned by Captain Tuck Harry and his wife Lisa Speno. Captain Harry has more than 30 years of experience as a charter boat captain and fishing guide in Southeastern Alaska and Western Washington. There are about 750,000 salmon that migrate to spawn in the rivers of this inlet. Coho, chum and pink salmon are abundant in the 14 rivers flowing into Tenakee inlet and may be taken in fresh or saltwater. The largest species of salmon, the Chinook, feed and may be landed in saltwater areas near Tenakee Springs. Halibut are also common and can be caught during the entire summer season, while steelhead migrate into local streams during the early summer. Tenakee is accessible from either Juneau or Sitka via the Alaska State Ferry or floatplane. -Tuck Harry, Fishing Bear Charters Tenakee Springs, AK • (907) 736-2350

e Springs! Fish The Tenake

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WHAT WORKS FOR ME We put a weight room in our house – complete with a dumbbell set, sled, dip and pull-up bars, bench and squat rack, and a couple curl bars. We did this because we live in the country and don’t have time to drive to the nearest gym six days a week. Having weights in the house ensures that I work out, and my wife and two teenage boys also use them regularly. I followed my own weightlifting routine until about four years ago. Then I discovered P90X (p90xworkoutschedule.org) and I love this program. I started it in the spring and completed it twice before hunting season kicked off. That fall, I went on over 20 big game hunts and was in the best hunting shape of my life. I repeated the program the following year, with the same impressive results. In year three, I wanted to bulk up and build even more strength. I put on 19 pounds of muscle and felt good – at

There are many great workout programs that can be done in the comfort of your own home. With a few weights and some basic equipment, you can accomplish a great deal and notice and appreciate the results come hunting season. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

KENAI RIVER RED LODGE

Welcome to the perfect blend of nature and luxury, Kenai River Red Lodge, where first-class fishing meets luxurious accommodations! Kenai River Red Lodge is conveniently located minutes from fine dining, shopping, hiking, biking, ski trails, snow machining, snow shoeing and abundant wildlife viewing, as well as the best fishing of your life. Stay with us and enjoy access to 120 feet of river frontage while fishing for your trophy! We have a large master suite with a cozy fireplace; private deck with sauna and swing overlooking the Kenai River; jetted Jacuzzis for two and a walk-in shower. The deck has a barbecue and 10-person hot tub. We also offer two separate living areas that can accommodate two to 16 people. For your convenience, we offer a fish-processing area that includes a vacuum packer and freezer, or we can arrange to have your fish processed for you. Schedule now for an excursion of your life and have your choice of trophy king salmon, silver salmon, sockeye salmon, ocean fishing, trout, halibut, wildlife safaris, whale watching, float plane fly-ins or bear watching, among many other activities. Kenai River Red Lodge offers all the amenities and is surrounded by the beauty of the world-renown Kenai River. Relax and enjoy the view, step outside and fish the Kenai River, or pick from the many excursions available. Call us to start planning your Alaskan fishing getaway vacation package today!

907-262-2353 or 541-480-1112 • kenairiverredlodge.info

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Alaska’s No See Um Lodge

Over 30 Pristine Fly-In Only Locations Southwest Alaska, home of the largest wild salmon run in the world Katmai National Park and Preserve Full service, all inclusive trips from Anchorage Ultra-remote with all the amenities

No See Um Lodge The Ultimate Alaskan Adventure

Call or email John to book your Ultimate Alaskan Fishing Trip! 907-232-0729 | www.noseeumlodge.com ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL aksportingjournal.com | MARCH 2016

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least until I set foot in the woods. I really struggled that fall due to a lack of flexibility and cardiovascular fitness. So last year I switched programs, going to the Body Beast (beachbody.com) and really liked it. I built the strength I was looking for, increased muscle tone and my stamina was noticeably better. I wasn’t after mass, but rather a lean, more mobile physique. I’m going on year two of the Body Beast program but I’m thinking of giving P90X3 a try, which my wife and oldest son just completed and really liked.

GET MOVING, TOO In addition to lifting weights six days a week, I try getting in a cardio workout at least three days a week. Due to back problems, the best cardio workout for me comes on a Schwinn Airdyne stationary bike. I also like the NordicTrack Elliptical. The harder I push myself on these, the better the results. Also, I stretch a lot and do yoga, as flexibility while hunting is a huge plus.

Last year, I also tried supplements for the first time in my 36 years of exercising. At the recommendation of friends, I tried the USPlabs (usplabsdirect.com) program. My favorite component was the Modern BCAA, mixed with water to be sipped during workouts. I also liked having it in my hydration pack while on hunts. The protein shake also offered noticeable benefits after workouts. I was not a fan of the stimulants, though the modern creatine did seem to help me overcome muscle and joint soreness. There are many options out there when it comes to implementing supplements in your workouts, so choose what’s safest and the healthiest for you. Lifting weights to become a better hunter is not about building big muscles; it’s about training a body to perform efficiently, and that can only be attained through a disciplined workout routine. Eat right and maintain a consistent cardio and stretching regimen as a supplement with your weight workouts,

and you’ll be amazed at what can be accomplished over the course of a hunting season. ASJ Editor’s note: For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s best-selling book, Hunting The Alaskan High Arctic, send a check for $38 (FREE S&H), to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489, or order online at scotthaugen.com.

BEAR PAW ADVENTURE LODGING

Located near the world-famous Anchor River on Alaska’s salmon-rich Kenai Peninsula, this unique homestead property features 4 hand-crafted log cabins with full kitchens, laundry, sat-TV, Wi-Fi, on-demand hot water, leather furniture, comfy beds, BBQ and Alaska big game mounts. Your choice of Combo halibut/salmon saltwater trips, salmon or trout river trips, or fly-out trips to remote areas or you can fish on your own unguided or with other charters. Bring the family and they will enjoy wildlife and games on property and exciting nearby adventures and culture. Pamper yourself, friends and family by staying on this firstclass homestead. You don’t even need to fish to enjoy this!

866-286-0576 www.bearpawadventure.com 140

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HAINES Canal Marine Co. 10 Front St (907) 766-2437 canalmarinecompany.com

KETCHIKAN Timber & Marine Supply, Inc. 2547 Tongass Ave (907) 225-6644 www.timberandmarine.com

JUNEAU Tyler Rental Inc 5295 Glacier Hwy (907) 780-2210 www.tylerrentaljuneau.com

PALMER Alaska Pacific Rental 1111 Glenn Hwy (907) 746-1144 www.alaskapacificrental.com

PETERSBURG Rocky’s Marine Inc 245 Mitkof Hwy (907) 772-3949 www.rockysmarine.com

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TELL IT

TO THE JUDGE Attorney: And was a box of No. 1 shot for geese one of those items? Me (not wanting to admit fault): I don’t recall. Attorney: Is Exhibit A your shopping list that day? Me (jumps over the witness stand and starts eating list): Nom-nom-nom.

BY CHRISTINE CUNNINGHAM

I

’m not a list maker. It seems like an unnecessary step since in my situation, the same person who makes the list is going to check the list – me. If I know anything about me, it’s this: If I’m going to forget something, I’m going to forget it no matter what. And if I’m going to remember something, I’m going to remember it precisely the moment after it’s too late to turn around and head back to the store to get it. A list doesn’t help the process. All a list does is put me in the position of acting as a witness against myself by creating a document that proves beyond a shadow of a doubt that I didn’t just forget, I knowingly forgot. I can picture the line of questioning: Sharply dressed trial attorney: Ms. Cunningham, did you go to the sporting goods store to buy several items for your duck hunting trip? Me: Yes.

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Luckily, there’s no cause for a court trial in all the instances of my forgetfulness. What I usually get is an informal one. I play the parts of both the defendant representing herself and the victim. My hunting partner is the prosecutor. The other guys in camp are the jury and a chocolate Labrador plays the part of the judge. The scenario varies, but most recently I was inside the duck shack on the west side of Cook Inlet when I heard the unmistakable sound of geese. As it was midday, the jury was asleep in the bunks and the prosecutor was out working on another case. I grabbed my shotgun from the rack and searched for my goose loads. The honks were getting closer as I ransacked the ammo bag to no avail. Finally, I grabbed my duck loads and ran out onto the porch, the judge at my heels. The geese were about 40 yards off the back of the shack and the jury was rousing. I ran around the building and mounted my gun, unwilling to take the now-80-yard shot with the wrong shells. The judge looked at me as if to say, “I’ll consider that a motion to continue.” The commotion had awoken the two sleeping hunters, and they came out to watch the geese climb into the sky and head far out of range. “They were out of range,” I said. I was following my personal code of not admitting fault or incompetence, figuring that there’s no sense admitting to something that will eventually prove itself out. Around the card table that night,

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someone mentioned the geese. It might have been me. I wasn’t going to mention the entire circumstances since I have a tendency for thoroughness in my storytelling that wants to begin every tale with the dawn of primordial man. It wouldn’t be fair to explain that I’d left my goose loads at home without going on to explain my hectic schedule the day I packed, and how absent-mindedness is really a sign of genius. “I saw those geese,” my hunting partner the prosecutor said. “They looked pretty close to the cabin.” “Naw,” I said, “They were 100 yards out.” The fact is that from where he was in his duck blind, it would be virtually impossible to judge the distance of the geese to the cabin within 20 yards. “Looked like you had a shot,” he said. He was speculating, and speculating is wrong. The thing is, he was a pretty good speculator. It didn’t help that I have the poker face of a cartoon rabbit. The judge was laying under the table so I gave her a treat, not so much to keep her quiet as to change the subject. “Did you have your goose loads with you?” the prosecutor asked. That wasn’t relevant, I thought. What kind of informal trial was this? Fine! I forgot my goose loads! I’m a big forgetter and I’ve only got myself to blame! Then I calmed myself down and got off the top of the table. If anything’s to blame it’s the nature of outdoor pursuits – what you need on any given occasion is based on an unpredictable environment. From survival tools, clothing layers, type of pack, type of dog, gun or ammo, what the day brings depends on what you bring. And the one thing you forget that matters will matter the most. Next time, I got to thinking, I’m not going to forget anything. I’m going to get my mind right. It’s been said that “hindsight is 20/20,” but it doesn’t last long. ASJ


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