New Product Development - Sleek Makeup by Miriam Rodriguez Juarez

We confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project. Signed (student) Isobel Plummer……………………………........................................................................................... Tirion Roberts…………………………….............................................................................................. Miriam Rodriguez-Juarez……………….............................................................................................. Georgia Martin....................................................................................................................................

Isobel Plummer - N0701811 Tirion Roberts - N0647115 Miriam Rodriguez - N0709570 Georgia Martin - N0674834 Word Count: 3808

CON T INTRODUCTION.................................................................... 01

METHODOLOGY................................................................... 02 ABOUT SLEEK........................................................................ 05 BRAND ARCHITECTURE......................................................... 07 BENEFIT LADDER................................................................... 12

CONSUMER ANALYSIS......................................................... 13 SLEEK IN STORE.................................................................... 15 SWOT ANALYSIS................................................................... 17

THE COSMETICS MARKET..................................................... 21

PESTLE ANALYSIS.................................................................. 23 TRENDS................................................................................. 27

BRAND POSITIONING.......................................................... 35 COMPETITOR ANALYSIS........................................................ 37 IDENTIFYING OPPORTUNITY PLATFORMS............................. 39 PRIORITISING OPPORTUNITY PLATFORMS............................ 40 INITIAL IDEA GENERATION ................................................. 42 REFINED IDEAS..................................................................... 43 PRIORITISING IDEAS............................................................. 45

HIERARCHY OF INNOVATION.............................................. 47 ACTION TO BE TAKEN.......................................................... 48 INSIGHT MAP....................................................................... 49 THE MAIN FRUSTRATION...................................................... 51 HE DEVELOPED CONCEPT..................................................... 53 RISKS VS. REWARDS............................................................. 57 PRODUCT BENEFIT LADDER................................................... 58 REASONS TO BELIEVE........................................................... 60

E NTS. SIZE OF THE PRIZE ............................................................... 62 IMPLEMENTATION AND CONCLUSION ............................... 63 IMAGE REFERENCES............................................................. 67

REFERENCES......................................................................... 69 BIBLIOGRAPHY...................................................................... 70 APPENDIX 1: STORMBOARD ................................................ 71

APPENDIX 2: BLANK SURVEY................................................ 72 APPENDIX 3: SURVEY RESULTS.............................................. 73 APPENDIX 4: FOCUS GROUPS.............................................. 79 APPENDIX 5 INTERVIEWS...................................................... 88 APPENDIX 6: CONSENT FORMS........................................... 90

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A QUICK INTRODUCTION... The aim of this report is to encompass research findings on the current beauty trends within the UK. An analysis of consumer insights, will be used to develop a new product development (NPD) for the cosmetics brand Sleek. This NPD will in keep with Sleekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current brand image and will extend their offering while inspiring and exciting consumers. Considerations for the NPD also include its position within the retailer Boots, and estimates will be made on its feasibility. Three ideas will be developed from research findings and put forward to target users. Finally, one product will be developed and designed and the feasibility of the product will be estimated.

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THE PROJECT METHODOLOGY There has been a wide range of both primary and secondary research carried out throughout the project to gain a clear understanding of the consumer and the market. A shop safari was conducted as part of the primary research, with visits to Boots and Superdrug stores in Nottingham and Derby to provide a full understanding of Sleek and to compare with competitor brands as well as conducting a brief ethnography. Further, an online survey was conducted for which 173 responses were analysed, this gives a strong basis to develop ideas. These respondents were approached in several ways to ensure limited bias, these included through social media, direct emailing, online makeup forums and interviews. This is a key strength to the primary research which is supported by Creswell (2014) who states “Standard of validity and reliability are important in qualitative research”. Qualitative primary research gave insight to consumer frustrations and their opinions on the NPD ideas. For this two focus groups were undertaken which consisted of individuals aged 8-21 who were chosen based on their strong interest in cosmetics to provide us with the greatest levels of relevant insight at the idea generation stage. One possible limitation of this is that Sleek’s target market is 18-30, therefore the focus group insight for the older end of this range was absent. However, to combat this, individual interviews were held with makeup artists, providing an expert insight into gaps in the market. Two further focus groups were then held to gain a thorough understanding on which of the three innovative ideas excited consumers as well as their thoughts on possible price points and design concepts. Secondary research consisted of multiple reliable sources including books, articles, journals, social media and databases such as Mintel and WGSN, which provided contextual understanding of the current cosmetics market and the trends that are impacting it. In addition to this, Sleek and Boots websites were analysed to help fully understand the brand, competitor’s websites were also studied and used as a benchmark to come up with ways Sleek can improve. These sources and methods ensured the reliable collation of data and research which formed the basis of this report.

ABOUT SLEEK

A brand that has been and wants to continue to be known for its edge, vibrant colours and finishes that work for all skin tones, Sleek use colour impact to recruit new consumers with new and innovative products offering. Sleek’s current campaign ‘My Face, My Rules’ has been created to not only positively recognise and stand up for everyone’s right to define their individual beauty, but to highlight the negative judgement and stereotypes makeup users can face everyday.. This campaign shows that the brand is all about putting the consumer first, showing it is okay to be obsessed with makeup. Sleek’s current presence within the UK cosmetic landscape is at mid to high. Available to purchase across Boots, Superdrug, Sleek.com, FeelUnique.com and JustMyLook.com. The brand is widely integrated and has a loyal and extensive following across their social media platforms, with the UK Instagram at a large 1.1million.

BRAND ARCHITECHTURE EYES

LIPS

TOOLS

FACE

HIGHLIGHT

SHADOW

CONTOUR

Sleek’s brand architecture predominantly focuses on makeup for ‘eyes’, ‘lips’ and ‘face’. They also show that they aim to make beauty trends accessible with products such as their contour kit and matte lipsticks. Within their product range, however, it was found that they are lacking in some areas as they do not provide products such as setting spray and false eyelashes which have become essential for many consumers. Their brushes are not widely advertised which is potentially limiting for the brand as it means for products such as these consumers are forced to shop with other brands. Sleek has three ‘hero’ products, these include their highlighters, contour kit and i-Divine eyeshadow palette. These three products are their best sellers and are most effective for the brand and so it would be beneficial to expand on these ranges as the consumers already believe in the products.

VISION Sleek drive innovation and creativity into everything they do, with makeup that celebrates the vastness and differentness of the world’s people. They aim to bring this idea and attitude to more people and their vision is to become a $100m brand by 2020.

MISSION Sleek’s mission is to create innovative makeup products that can be used by all people no matter what their race, sexuality, gender, or background. They want their makeup to give all different types of people the option to express themselves and wear the makeup they want to wear without judgement or fear.

ESSENCE ‘Boldness’, ‘Inclusion’ and ‘Expression’ are the three words that Sleek stand by and is what needs to be emulated in everything they do, from product to promotion.

PROMISE Sleek promise to always champion everyone’s right to define their individual beauty without boundaries, and give all people the ability to do this by keeping products at a value for money price tag, without compromising on quality or innovation. 09

FUNCTIONNAL BENEFITS Saves the consumer money over if they were to purchase from higher end brands

Multiple looks can be created with each product and versatile for different occasions

To cover blemishes and skin imperfections

Cruelty free products for ethical consumption

Good quality products that work in the way they state that they will

Sleek offer a variety of products to alter or enhance the users appearance

EMOTIONAL BENEFITS The fun and freedom of being able to be creative and experiment with appearance

The act of putting on makeup as a form of relaxation and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;meâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; time

Looking good= Feeling good

Feeling attractive, put together and prepared to face the day

The confidence for the consumer to be themselves and wear the makeup they want

A feeling of inclusion, as all races, genders, sexualities and backgrounds are welcome 12

THE SLEEK CONSUMER

HONEST POSITIVE FLUID GENUINE RESOURCEFUL

Caci is..a recently graduated 24 year old wannabe actress from Manchester, she hangs out in the norther quarter, idolises Rhianna and FKA Twigs, her favourite TV show is Ru Pauls Drag Race. She is... a complete makeup junkie, she’s always on the lookout for the newest and hottest products on the market and will do just about anything to get her hands on them.

She loves to...experiment with her look and play around with new trends as she treats makeup as an artform and uses it because she enjoys the process and likes to be creative with her appearance as it is how she expresses herself. She’s always...on social media, to her it is a way of life and you’ll rarely see her without her phone. Her purchases are very influenced by the celebs and bloggers she follows. She’s considered...the go to friend for all things makeup and is always happy to help apply her friends eyeshadow.

Understanding the Sleek consumer is very important in the process of coming up with a NPD because “businesses and marketers that do not search for consumer insights, or who fail to understand their anthropological backgrounds, will not be able to connect or engage with prospects and won’t be able to motivate them to become customers” (Klepic, 2014). The product needs to resonate with the target market otherwise it won’t be successful. The pen portrait shows that the Sleek consumer is all about makeup and wears it because they enjoy it rather than just to cover up, and with this they will probably be more creative and bold with their look which is something that should be reflected in the NPD. As well as this they are big fans of social media, this is an important touchpoint for product appeal and in reaching to the consumer as they will listen to influencers and buy into hype over trends, dupes and techniques.

SLEEK IN STORE Friday 2nd January 2018, 1PM Boots, Nottingham Observations: -The stand was not well lit in comparison to those around it and so in combination with Sleek’s dark packaging it did not stand out. -A woman who looked 60+ stood next to a woman who looked under 20 both viewing and trying Sleek products.

Friday 2nd January 2018, 1PM Boots, Nottingham Observations: -As well as a main stand they also had a mini temporary cardboard set up displaying some of their popular products with images from their newest campaign and tounge in cheek slogans for each section e.g. “serious shade” -Observed the people looking at the Sleek products would first swatch the different shades on their hand to test them out.

Friday 2nd January 2018, 1PM Superdrug, Nottingham Observations: -The stand was better lit than in Boots but was postitioned all the way at the back of the store and so hard to come across. -The store offering is not as wide as online, which could be a cause of frustration to the consumer. 15

STRENGTHS Long history with over 20 years in the industry means they are experienced and a trusted brand. Their ‘My Face, My Rules’ Campaign has cemented a strong brand identity for them whilst also aligning themselves with a message and cause (ending makeup shaming) which people want to get behind. Has strong social media presence along with a high loyalty of 1.1m followers on their UK Instagram profile. Being cruelty free means that they will still be bought by the growing group of ethical consumers and they gain a good brand image in this area. Easily accessible to the consumer with low price point as well as location as they are readily available in Boots and Superdrug stores up and down the UK.

WEAKNESSES Other brands have a better/wider product offering, e.g. Sleek do not offer a setting spray, which means that consumers are forced to buy from other brands. Stands in retailers (Boots, Superdrug) are poorly looked after, and small in size in comparison to Sleek’s competitors. Space within retail stores as well as no on site Sleek staff limits them in what type of innovation they can feasibly achieve, for example a personalised in store service wouldn’t currently be possible for them. They do not have a physical store of their own which is something that has worked well for competitors such as KIKO Milano. They don’t advertise all of their products on their website and so some are unknown to the consumer which is limiting their sales.

OPPORTUNITIES Their history involves being the first makeup brand to recognise the industries problem with providing skin tone matches for all, and so inclusivity is a trend that would work well and make sense for the brand. Multi-use products for time saving purposes, as more and more people within the target age range are pressed for time and there is a demand for more convenient product ranges. As a drugstore brand there is opportunity for Sleek to use the fact that it is cheaper than high end brands by creating dupe products for consumers to get the look they want at a more accessible price point. Their â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;heroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; products are already loved and believed in by the consumer and so opportunity exists to expand on the ideas behind these products to keep them up to date and trend relevant as there will be less risk.

THREATS The beauty market is extremely saturated and so it is difficult for Sleek to stand out against the competition and have their voice be heard. With constant NPD in the market, innovation from competitors has the potential to damage Sleek heavily. Ever changing makeup and beauty trends could mean a product wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be relevant for long as consumers will be onto the next big thing. Competitors copying their innovation and NPD, within the beauty market a successful idea or product is often not exclusive to one brand for very long which will then give the consumer more choice. Any changes in EU regulations and banning of chemicals has the potential to affect the ingredients Sleek are able to use within their products.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;A SWOT analysis assesses the external environment and internal capabilities of a companyâ&#x20AC;? (Harrison, 2015) and shows that Sleek have many core competencies such as the fact that they have a long history and strong brand identity which has gained them loyalty amongst consumers. However, their areas of weakness make threats from competition more pronounced, which need to be considered to understand what is currently possible for the brand. The main opportunities lie within expanding on what the brand already does so that any NPD fits in with the brand image and will appeal to the target market.

Image 2: Vater Und Sohn (Teller, 2005)

THE COSMETICS MARKET Beauty and cosmetics is a fast pace market where there are new product releases on a weekly basis. Social media plays a large part in the market, where brands use platforms such as Instagram to announce product releases rather than the brands website and where direct purchases can be made. Online consumer spending on beauty and personal care is “expected to reach £1.2bn in 2018, representing 5.8% year-on-year growth” (Dover, 2018) therefore, overall, the colour cosmetics category is showing strong growth. There is also set to be a rise in “facial products and technique-based products due to the influence of Millenials and ‘selfie culture’” (Euromonitor, 2017). This is down to how millennials have a constant need of looking and feeling good; for example; eyeshadow sales are increasing due to easy access online tutorials and the growing need to keep up with upcoming trends. Although NPD has shown an overall decline in the period 2014-2016, “beauty trends predominately continue to help sustain the cosmetic category, alongside the rise of skincare with more of a shift and focus towards more complex skincare routines” (Khanom, 2017). As well as this there is a demand for low prices within the BPC (beauty and personal care) market “hindering growth as consumers continue to seek value for money when purchasing products” (Dover, 2018). The Office for National Statistics projects that “the number of 15-24s will decline by 3.7% in the next five years between 2016 and 2021, which is threatening to Sleek as they target 18-30s. Following on from this, targeting consumers based on their individual needs is what makes a brand successful, thus brands should stop targeting consumers based on their age and gender as they are in constant demand for products that are right for a consumer on their terms.

POLITICAL Consumers are increasingly buying into products that are not harmful to animals and don’t require animal testing, and are more curious about the nature of the products that they buy from. Since 2013 according to the RSPCA it has been illegal to test new ingredients and products on animals. (rspca, 2018) Sleek cosmetics are currently ‘cruelty free’, which positions them in the cosmetics market at an advantage in reaching out to a wider consumer.

ECONOMICAL The unemployment rate of people under 24 is at 46,000 in the UK and is rising at its fastest rate in five years (Partington. R, 2018). This affects the cosmetics industry as people have less to spend on luxury items such as makeup and so people will be investing in cheaper alternatives. Which in turn has the potential to boost Sleek’s sales as there is a higher demand for lower end products.

SOCIAL Consumers are less inclined to be oversimplified by traditional demographics, with the rise of individualism and demand for representation - marketers need to avoid boxing consumers into demographic segmentations based on limiting factors like age, gender, economic status, sexuality or race (JWThompson, 2018). This has seen the rise and focus on products catering for men, as well as breaking away from the term ‘anti-ageing’ (Dover, 2018). This factor means that Sleek will need to be careful with their marketing messages to ensure the inclusion of all types of people whilst still focusing on a core consumer, which works well for the brand as their values lie within inclusivity as it is. 23

TECHNOLOGICAL Beauty brands have learnt that they need to be ‘Instagram optimized’. Using experiences and shows to encourage customers to snap and share photos. The concept of prevention is set to be globally adopted in the beauty sphere thanks to wearable technology and tech that alerts the users to changing skin needs and potential problems. (WGSN, 2015) Therefore, Sleek need to be aware of new technological advancements so they don’t fall behind their competitors and continue to fulfill consumer needs.

LEGAL Health and safety laws must be considered of what goes into the products ensuring it is kind to the skin and ingredients should be thoroughly researched and tested to ensure safety for the consumer, as well as transparency of ingredients to avoid lawsuits from consumers who may experience adverse reactions. Copyright laws also need to be considered as any NPD from Sleek must be careful not to breach laws when it comes to taking ideas from other brands and applying them to their own product range.

ENVIRONMENTAL Sleek need to take into consideration environmental factors to ensure their products aren’t doing unecessasary damage, this is good for brand image as there is now an expectation of sustainability, traceability, transparency in the approach to products and packaging like never before. Within this, natural and organic beauty products continue to rise as vegan, paleo and halal all become viable areas for expansion. An importance is placed on water as a precious commodity as consumption outstrips supply. The introduction of botanical extracts and essential oils are set to replace H20, with the concentrate of vitamin and antioxidants that penetrate the skin deeper to revitalize better than water ever could. (WGSN, 2015) 24

The PESTLE demonstrates how the external market needs to be taken into consideration for a NPD to be implemented as these all affect how well the product is going to perform. â&#x20AC;&#x153;A PESTEL analysis provides a framework to investigate a companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s non-controllable external factors that have the potential to affect its operations. By examining these, a company is in a better position to consider likely implications and minimise any future organisationrelated risksâ&#x20AC;? (Makos, 2014). Although all points are important to consider, it is believed that Sleek should be highly aware of the social and technological factors as these directly affect their consumer and how an NPD should be approached in the current market for optimal success.

MIND, BODY & SOUL

FEELING WELLTHY There is a growing interest in consumers thinking about self-love, and self-confidence during 2018. Consumers are realising that taking care and looking after their skin is not enough, it goes further than just simply penetrating deeper levels of your skin and as the saying goes ‘self-love isn’t selfish’. Women are more likely to feel confident when wearing makeup suggesting advertising opportunities to position makeup to boost emotional well-being. “Confidence is a prominent feature in driving makeup sales, women are more likely to feel empowered as well as professional and attractive once wearing makeup” (Khanom, 2017). Health and beauty are no longer just physical states, but experiences, and so consumers want products with a compelling narrative. Consumers want health benefits embedded into beauty products, designed to improve consumers emotional wellbeing. (Trendwatching, N.D.) Along with this, “consumers are increasingly seeking balanced lives and thinking more deeply about key factors affecting mind & body”. (LSN, 2015) There is a shift in connecting brands with consumers, with a “new attitude, thinking and language around sustainable self-care with the consumer well-being as the focus point” (WGSN, 2015). Within this, new products are employing ‘magical’ imagery and language in branding efforts that look to woo consumers by playing up the bewitching nature of ancient healing wisdom. The shift demonstrates the interest in seeking out dynamic new rituals and prioritise both mind and body wellness. (Trend Hunter, 2018)

CONVENIENCE As regimes and techniques become more complex (contouring etc.) consumers are looking for products that enable them to achieve a look without the time, financial and knowledge investment. This is proven by Mintel who found that “to save time in their morning routine, many women are applying makeup on public transport, therefore opportunity exists for product innovations to make cosmetics application on-the-go simpler and more practical, such as solid formats and products that can be applied one handed and straight from the pack.” (Libby, 2017). This shows that there is a clear opportunity for Sleek as this trend is directly affects their target market. An example of how this trend has already implemented itself in the market is the boom in popularity of palettes rather than single products in recent years as they offer “a wide variety, mirrors and applicators in one product.” This is supported by how “one in four UK 16-24 year olds have purchased an eye-shadow palette in the last 12 months, compared to just 9% who bought a single eyeshadow.” (Libby, 2017). It is clear that consumers want their routines to be made easier and more convenient, however, they still want to be able to create on trend looks and not ‘dull down’ their routine, “the preference for on-the-go products does not necessarily translate to simpler or smaller in size: Millennial consumers especially have developed meticulous make-up routines, and are looking for ways to carry around their whole make-up collection.” (Libby, 2017). Primary research also backed up that the Sleek consumer would be interested in a product which saved them time and effort as 48% of people said products being ‘easy to use’ was most important to them when making a purchase and 19.3% said their long makeup regime was a main frustration for them.

INCLUSIVITY

People who do not find themselves being represented within the cosmetics industry feel excluded, this presents an unmet need and gap in the cosmetic industry. The year 2017 saw an uproar within the cosmetic and beauty sector, with the release of Rihanna’s ‘Fenty Beauty’ makeup line, launching with 40 shades of foundation. The tagline ‘Beauty for All’ simply encapsulates the unmet need for women and men who have previously struggled with finding a shade that is right for them. Lancóme also offer a foundation that comes in 40 shades, and high-street drugstore brand Maybelline offer 32 shades in one of their foundation products. Beauty needs to be defined on the consumers terms and not with focus solely on age, gender, body type or ethnicities. From the primary research, the question, ‘Do you believe that there is a gap in the market?’, the findings showed that 49 out of 88 women who answered, expressed either lack of shade range or lack of inclusivity. (Typeform, 2018)

HYPERPERSONALISED A bespoke or one off product is hard to beat for a status seeking consumer “consumers believe that niche beauty products which are tailored for them are more likely to be effective and yield ultimate results” (Trendwatching, N.D.). Consumers want to feel that they are using products specifically tailored to their needs, “65% of women feel overloaded with the choice on offer” (Mintel 2016), so anything that shows a brand cares will be met with appreciation. “Hyper personalisation is all about achieving relevance for your consumers, and once this is achieved they will happily use your products to tell ‘success stories’.” (Forbes, 2017). “This trends stems from the ‘ME economy’ which represents the personalization of goods and services to uniquely meet the desires of each individual consumer” (Barfield 2017) , which is shown by how “more than a quarter of shoppers, 25-30 percent, are seeking-out online customization options” (Spafinder 2015). “This trend is growing for two key reasons: the increasing need for brand differentiation in a saturated market; and the ‘drill down’ effect of data and predictive content, which consumers have come to expect.” Personalised and bespoke beauty products are on the rise, as consumers seek products tailormade for their skin needs. Lancome’s personalised foundation is a freshly blended base that matches the individual’s skin tone. The consumers skin is scanned at the counter, and then processed through an algorithm to determine a shade number which is printed out onto their bottle for refills later. Personalisation options are becoming more common in the retail industry as consumers want to put their own stamp onto products - The Kiko Milano store in Milan offers an engraving device that allows customers to have products inscribed with messages or pictures in one minute or less (Mintel, 2018)

BRAND POSITIONING PREMIUM

GENERIC

CREATIVE

MASS

The perceptual map axis were chosen due to their high relevance to Sleek as being expressive is important to them and their low price point is a big selling factor of their products. Sleek are placed in the mass and creative segment of the map with its closest competitors being NYX, Barry M, and Makeup Revolution who all aim to attract a similar consumer. This area is fairly competitive, although it is clear that currently it has a strong position to be in as it is less saturated than the upper end of the creative market with premium brands such as Urban Decay, Too Faced and Mac. Currently it would not be a viable strategy for Sleek to alter their positioning as the risks would be too high for the brand without enough benefits to outweigh them as the map is fairly wide spread with a similar amount of competitors in all areas.

SLEEK

BOBBI BROWN

BARRY M

NYX

LANCOME

MUA

LUSH

KIKO MILANO

SMASHBOX

C.Y.O

THE BODY SHOP

MAXFACTOR

RIMMEL

MAYBELLINE

NO7

MAC

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OREAL

REVLON

BENEFIT

DIOR

CLINIQUE

TOO FACED

BOURJOIS

URBAN DECAY

MISS SPORTY

MAKEUP REVOLUTION

COMPETITOR ANALYSIS Sleeks primary competitors are those who compete at a similar price point, the majority are located in high-street drug stores. The secondary competitors are those brands who compete with similar values to Sleek, with emphasis on confidence and inclusivity, however they are located in high-street drug-stores as well as department stores.

PRIMARY SECONDARY

By looking at the perceptual map and studying Sleekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s competitors closely, it was deduced that NYX is the brands primary competitor as they compete for a similar market, sell a similar product and have similar brand values.

They are are highly integrated across Boots, with an independent retail space that is immensely larger than Sleekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, alongside having their own sales representatives. A larger retail space naturally draws the consumers attention, which is especially true in the Nottingham Victoria Centre Boots store where the NYX stand is always occupied with shoppers as it is in a prime spot close to an entrance.

NYX are largely known for their bold, bright and playful colours throughout their ranges and always keep up with the latest beauty trends. Alongside the current trends, NYX hold similar brand traits with Sleek, which is wanting consumers to be able to express themselves with their own individual take on using makeup, and most importantly having fun whilst experimenting with colours, techniques and new products.

Naturally a larger retail space allows a brand to stock and present an extensive product offering which is what NYX currently have the privilege of. In order for Sleek to compete with this, a NPD must jump out to consumers from the limited space that is provided for the brand, as an option this could be done through new and innovative packaging. 38

IDENTIFYING OPPORTUNITY PLATFORMS WHAT SHOULD SLEEK DO? Time management WHAT CAN SLEEK DO?

Hyper-Personalisation Multifunctional Products Time saving On-the-go (Convenience) Wellthy and Inclusivity trend

Wellthy focused Multi-functional Inclusive products Customisation

Cruelty Free Bright, bold and colouful products

Being outspoken about issues within the cosmetics industry (confidence, inclusivity) THE OPPORTUNITY

Having an extensive product offering that is widely accessible

For Sleekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s NPD, the first step is taking the main driving trends within the current market and identifying the opportunity platform presented for the overall brand to grow. This model has identified different enablers of growth for Sleekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s NPD and where the opportunities lie based on what they will be able to achieve with their current positioning, branding and image.

PRIORITISING OPPORTUNITY PLATFORMS HIGH

BIG AND EASY

Inclusive Products Wellthy Focused

Customisation

SMALL AND EASY

SMALL AND TOUGH

Time Saving Multifunctioning

LOW

SIZE OF OPPORTUNITY

BIG AND TOUGH

DIFFICULT

EASY EASE OF EXECUTION

The opportunity platforms are all viable as none fall within ‘small and tough’, however, the clear winner is ‘wellthy focused’ products as this is currently relevant to the consumer and will not be difficult to achieve as it expands on Sleek’s already outspoken campaigns therefore limited investment will be required, unlike ‘inclusive’ and ‘customisation’. ‘Time saving’ and ‘Multifunctioning’ are also feasible as it will be a quick win for Sleek that can easily be achieved.

INITIAL IDEA GENERATION After studying the focus groups and trend analysisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, ideas were generated using creative methods, such as brainstorming, and were based on the insights found within the research. These ideas were for products that would solve the consumer frustrations discovered. Overall 32 ideas were generated as a broad spectrum of product innovation areas were considered. These have then been categorised for the trends they fall under.

HYPER-PERSON ALISATION

INCLUSIVITY

Clear Foundation

Multi-function Wonder Spray

Customisable Palette Colour Picker App

Wide Eyebrow Shade Range

2 in 1 Lip and Cheek Applicators with Product Face and Eye Stencils Primer Makeup Wipes

Clear Foundation Primer Make-Up Wipes

Pencil Stacker Colour Changing Lipstick

Foundation Removing Cream

Lip Balm/Lipstick Duo

Ombre Lip

Pick Me Ups

Primer with Lipstick

Eye Primer

CONVENIENCE

WELLTHY

Multi-Function Wonder Spray

Self-Love Eyeshadow Palette

Cut Crease Stamp Eyeliner Stamp

Foundation Removing Cream Lash Lengthening BB/CC Cream

Pencil Stacker Lip Balm/Lipstick Duo Ombre Eyeshadow Temporary Freckle Tattoos Lip Contour Kit Temporary Eyeliner 42

REFINED IDEAS The ideas were narrowed down to a top three and the focus groups found that the Clear Foundation and the Self - Love eyeshadow were most popular. When asked about the Clear Foundation, the answers related to convenience and inclusivity, these include responses such as “I would definitely buy that and use it, it would be so useful for when you are tanned for those few weeks as well after being on holiday. However I am not sure if there would be too much in a box, that would be too big to go on the shelves.” (Freeman, 2018) and “I really like it, I think it is a really good idea, I have really pale skin and sometimes feel like foundations make my skin look yellow” (Kersh, 2018). However, one concern was consumers thought that the idea of a “perfect shade” had already been thought about “but I also think some more luxury brands already have similar ideas.” (Kersh, 2018). When asked to vote, however, it was clear that the consumers favourite idea was the Self-Love eyeshadow palette, as the whole wellthy concept was appealing to the consumer, one respondent answered “Definitely; a part of the buying and using makeup is the experience, the creativity, and the ability to express yourself, people are drawn to brands that play on this, because the brand feels more personalized and that builds loyalty in clients to the brand.” (Ellis, 2018). In particular, they liked the idea of the crystals and the bright colours “I love the crystals, it is so different and makes it seem extra special as I have never seen a brand do anything like that before” (Kent, 2018), one makeup artist said “Bright colours are great for being able to express yourself and it makes it easy having it all in a palette so you can create different looks” (Lazzarotto, 2018).

Brand Stretch

CURRENT

NEW HORIZONS Self-Love Eyeshadow Palette

BRAND (DEGREE OF STRETCH

NEW

PRIORITISING IDEAS

Clear Customisable Foundation Stacking Pencil

Breakthrough Innovation

Sustaining Innovation LOW

MARKET - COMPETITIVE ENVIRONMENT

HIGH

The Self-Love eyeshadow palette would be the first of its kind in the market, that is, for a brand to cater for not only how you look but also how you feel. Alongside this the experiential element will leave a memorable and exciting experience. The Clear foundation would be a breakthrough innovation, as although you can get a foundation customised to your shade in store (Lancome), you cannot alter the coverage and finish. The stacking lip-pencil would be the first of its kind, however it would just be stacking products which are already produced into one easy-to-use contraption.

HIERARCHY OF INNOVATION RY NA TIO LU VO RE

HIGH PRICE

CLEAR FOUNDATION

SELF- LOVE

UT OL EV

MID PRICE

LOW PRICE

IN L TA EN

EM CR

STACKER PENCIL

The stacker lip-pencil uses current products and revolutionary packaging to create one efficient component. The Self-Love palette is evolutionary to eyeshadows Sleek already offer, as no other brands create products where emotional benefits are as important as functionality benefits. The Clear Foundation is a revolutionary idea, therefore will be the hardest but have the biggest reward as it not only matches your shade exactly but also offers personalisation.

THE ACTION TO BE TAKEN MODEL WINNING ‘ME TOOS’

NOVEL WINNERS

Self-Love Eyeshadow Palette

TRIAL

Stacking Pencils

UNLIKELY TO SUCCESES

BREAKTHROUGH INNOVATION Clear Foundation

UNIQUENESS The Self-Love palette and the Clear Customisable foundation are both unique ideas and are clearly differentiated from what’s available in the current market. Analysing all the models so far, the Self-Love Eyeshadow palette seems most like to succeed. It has high differentiation from what is already available in the market, fits in with Sleeks branding, and presents high trial rates.

INSIGHT MAP SO WHAT?

Frustrated that I don’t have the confidence to do what I want

I want to have enough self-worth and self-care

FEEL? Because i’m afraid to stand out and be different

WHY?

I want to feel feel good emotionally as well as physically

WHY?

Consumers feel consious about wearing make up

WHY?

I feel judged for the way that I look

SO WHAT?

It limits me creatively as I stick to more basic looks rather than expressive

Simply, wanting to wear makeup for me and no one else

FEEL? FEEL?

Frustrated; brands only cater to how you look, not how you feel

I don’t feel like i’m being true to myself

The insight map shows the consumer’s thought process and reasons as to why they might feel conscious wearing makeup, resulting in an understanding of what problems the product needs to be able to solve as well as what marketing messages it should convey. The three avenues include: not having the self-confidence to wear a look, feeling judged by others if they do wear it and finally, the desire to look after their emotional state.

THE MAIN FRUSTRATION The palette, in terms of marketing efforts, design and message will present self-love and having the confidence to wear desired makeup looks. This was developed through researching trends, primary research and models such as the insight map which revealed the consumer tension of brands only catering to how the consumer looks and not how they feel. This insight was particularly relevant as it is expanded from the wellthy trend which found that “colour cosmetics can be transformative, both with regards to appearance as well as emotional wellbeing” (Mintel, 2017). The consumers confirmed this in the primary research as they made it clear that the reason they wear makeup is more for “metime”, relaxation, and confidence rather than approval, as when asked responses such as “It forces me to spend some time just taking care of myself in the morning/evening, and it allows me to express my creativity outwardly” (Typeform, 2018) and “To feel good about myself, for myself” (Typeform, 2018) were common. Therefore, it was discovered that there is clear opportunity for Sleek to market their product innovation in a way that spreads love rather than preys on insecurities.

”

I want a product where i can experiment creatively and feel good about the makeup I want to wear BUT I need a confidence as I struggle with self-love/self-worth

”

SELF-LOVE PASSION

SELF-LOVE ESSENTIALS

THE DEVELOPED CONCEPT

The Self-Love eyeshadow palette will be an eight-pan palette, where each colour will have a name that spells out ‘self-love’ Along with this, each colour will have a small letter embossed in the middle, spelling out ’self-love’ once again. The first palette is ‘Self-Love Essentials’, including warm and neutral tones, whilst ‘Self-Love Passion’ includes bold and playful colours. Each colour from the palette each is inspired by a different crystal, each have unique meanings and properties such as relieving stress, anxiety, promoting self-love or motivation, a concept which potential consumers were excited about “the crystal are such a unique aspect and makes it feel like a fully formed and considered product, I love the idea” (Kent, 2018). 53

The pick-me-ups include uplifting quotes and phrases, they will be sassy and relevant as the Sleek consumer is young and current. The â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;#mySLEEKseflove encourages UGC and hype online, and the final pick-me-up then encourages the consumer to share their looks on social media as well as the self-love lessons with those closest to them which means consumer involvement goes beyond just purchasing and it becomes a truly experiential product.

SELF-LOVE PASSION

SELF-LOVE ESSENTIALS

The palette will be multi-layered with the pick-me-ups slotting in a draw underneath the eyeshadows for easy access. As well as this it will have a mirror as multi-use is important to the consumer with the convenience trend’s relevance. The length will be 10 x 7.2 x 2.5 which is smaller than their current i-divine range and therefore still portable and ease of use has been taken into consideration.

In order to bring the product to life, the packaging that was used was extremely important to make the product stand out on the shelf. The palettes will have a holographic, 3D lid which emphasises on the initial idea of crystals. The ‘Essentials’ palette will be silver whilst the ‘Passion’ will have a colourful design, both reflecting the shades inside. The designs will create a memorable and exciting experience for consumers and stand out Sleek’s regular black packaging. 55

RISKS VS. REWARDS RISKS

PLAN TO OVERCOME

REWARDS

Could come across as ‘cheesy’ and people may not buy into what the product is trying to achieve.

To use packaging and an engaging marketing campaign, similar to My Face My Rules.

Further cements Sleek as a brand that cares about it’s consumers and is relevant and up to date with Wellthy trend which enhances their brand image.

Sleek’s packaging is normally black and so it is a risk that it is straying from what the consumer knows already.

The marketing and key features of the product will bring it back to being close to what the consumer knows with Sleek as they already speak out about makeup shaming.

Stretching from a brands norms identifies a new market segment as well as making it seem more of a special product that will excite the consumer.

Sleek already has a ‘hero’ eyeshadow range with their i-Divine palettes and so it is a risk that the product cannot compete.

The packaging will stand out and draw the eye against the black packaging, the whole experience of the palette also takes it a step further than the i-Divine.

It brings new engagement to the brand and therefore will improve their brand image and compete at a better rate with competitors such as NYX.

Before bringing this product to market, it is important to consider how the risks weigh up against the rewards. The table clear demonstrates that each risk has been carefully analysed and a plan to overcome it has been thought through, this ensures that there will be nothing unexpected which hinders the success of the product.

PRODUCT FUNCTIONS The pigmented formula of the eyeshadow means the product will work in the way the consumer wants it to

The palette comes with a range of shades so multiple looks will be able to be achieved

2 Palettes further the choice of colours and looks

The Palette format is convenient for the consumer’s lifestyle

The mirror means the consumer can do multiple things at once and be multi-functional

2 Palettes give users the choice of a bold or natrual look depending on what they like

PRODUCTS EMOTIONS The confidence for the consumer to express themselves and wear the makeup they want

The act of putting on makeup as a form of relaxation and ‘me’ time

Confidence boost due to the pick-me-ups

Healing crystals unique properties will boost self-esteem of the user

The sharing aspect makes it experiential and the consumer will feel involved and special 58

REASONS TO BELIEVE

The Self-Love eyeshadow palette should be believed for many reasons. Firstly, it relates well to Sleek who are known for allowing their consumers to express themselves through their makeup and encouraging them to feel confident. The colours as well as the message behind the NPD are reminiscent of these values. As well as this, the product provides an experience which embodies looking good and feeling good as a concept and with this brings a new edge to the cosmetics market. The palette will also work well within Boots as a setting as it will not require additional space, as it will act as a main feature in their eyeshadow section and draw the consumer’s eye with stand out packaging, as an importance is placed on the experience from start to end of the consumer journey. The Self-Love concept also will sit hand in hand with Boots as a brand itself as their own slogan is “let’s feel good” which emphasises the idea of your emotional state as a reason for buying. Overall, introducing the palette will expand on their current brand image of being a brand that cares about important issues (crueltyfree, inclusivity, diversity), whilst the experiential design, stand out packaging and thought out colours and meanings will all contribute to a product that is going to excite the consumer and solve a frustration they might not even know they had.

SIZE OF THE PRIZE Product

Penetration

Trial

Repeat Purchase

Adult Population

Target Make- Potential Purcha- PotenAudieUp Trialists ses Per tial nce Users Annum Market Vol Per 18-30 36.5% 10% Person 17%

66.5 Million

11.3 4.1 413, 088 Million Million

1.5

Distribution

AwarRSP Annual eness p/pack Value

Year 1 Vol 70%

619,633 433, 743 43,374

”

£8.99 389,935

“I’d probably pay between £15 and £20 for an eyeshadow” (Clarke, 2018)

”

After looking at the competitive landscape, the decision was made to sell the ‘Self-Love’ palette at the retail price of £8.99, which is reasonable compared to what the consumer is willing to pay. Using values from sources such as Statista and Mintel to calculate the estimated target audience came to 4.1 million (18-30, male and female makeup users) of the product innovation. To estimate the commercial feasibility, the Self-Love palette is sat with a medium consumer appeal, therefore has 10% trial rates and 10% awareness according to industry norms. Estimating between one and two repeat purchases per annum as there are two different palettes.

IMPLEMENTATION AND CONCLUSION The Self-Love essentials palette will be released late October, due to the warm and neutral tones provided, this will work effectively with the seasonal time of the year. Alongside this, it provides consumers the opportunity to also purchase the palette as a gift for christmas. Moving onto the Self-love Passion palette, the bold, bright and playful colours naturally work well for spring and moving into the summer season. Releasing this palette in March, will be just in time before the ‘festival season’ begins as well as holidays. Depending on the success with the initial release, there is substantial room for the initial palettes to be further developed. More ‘Self-Love’ palettes can be produced and released with new crystal inspired colours, packaging design and updated ‘pick-me-ups’. To conclude, the overall design concept and consumer journey throughout encapsulates Sleek’s brand values. Allowing makeup users to be creative, expressive, empowered and have fun with a memorable experience is true to their beliefs. Sleek’s consumers are at the heart of who they are, and the new innovative, experiential Self-Love eyeshadow palettes reaffirms this.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. Anon, Putting the ‘Me’ into Cosmetics – the rise of personalisation in beauty 2017. [online]. twobytwo. Available at: https://www.twobytwo.co.uk/blog/putting-the-me-into-cosmetics-the-rise-of-personalisation-in-beauty/ [Accessed 02/28 2018]. 2. Anon, About Gemstones [online]. Energy Muse. Available at: https://www.energymuse.com/about-gemstones [Accessed 03/04 2018]. 3. Anon, 2017. CONSUMER INSIGHTS 2017 [online]. Cosmetics Europe. Available at: https://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/files/6114/9738/2777/CE_Consumer_Insights_2017.pdf [Accessed 02/28 2018]. 4. Anon, 2016. Cosmetic Industry in Figures. online: CTPA. 5. Austen, A. (2017). The rise of genderless beauty. [online] New York Post. Available at: https://nypost. com/2017/09/21/the-rise-of-genderless-beauty/ [Accessed 2 Mar. 2018]. 6. Boots.com. (2018). Beauty | Health | Pharmacy and Prescriptions - Boots. [online] Available at: http://www. boots.com/ [Accessed 16 Mar. 2018]. 7. CHAN, M., 2018. 2018 Makeup Trends You’ll Actually Want To Wear [online]. Refinery 29. Available at: http:// www.refinery29.uk/makeup-trends-2018#slide-14 [Accessed 02/16 2018]. 8. CHITRAKORN, K., 2018. 5 Technologies Transforming Retail in 2018 [online]. Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-tech/5-technologies-transforming-retail?utm_source=Subscribers&utm_campaign=f2b860ce63-5-technologies-transforming-retail-dries-van-noten&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_ d2191372b3-f2b860ce63-422625881 [Accessed 02/28 2018]. 9. Cutter, P., 2017. Hyper-Personalization Is About To Disrupt Three Major Industries [online]. Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/phoebecutter/2017/07/05/hyper-personalization-is-about-to-disrupt-three-major-industries/#519d377e11e3 [Accessed 02/05 2018]. 10. Jowett, V., 2018. Spring Summer 2018 hair and makeup trends [online]. Cosmopolitan. Available at: https:// www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g12451844/spring-summer-2018-hair-makeup-trends/ [Accessed 01/28 2018]. 11. Kestenbaum, R., 2017. These 12 Companies Won Spotlight Awards For Innovation In Beauty [online]. Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/richardkestenbaum/2017/09/05/these-12-companies-won-the-spotlightawards-for-innovation-in-beauty/#5b397320576b [Accessed 02/01 2018]. 12. March, B., 2017. 10 big beauty trends to watch out for in 2018 [online]. Harpers Bazaar. Available at: https:// www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/beauty/beauty-shows-trends/a14415615/beauty-trends-2018/ [Accessed 01/28 2018]. 13. Nyxcosmetics.co.uk. (2018). NYX Professional Makeup | Makeup & Beauty Products. [online] Available at: https://www.nyxcosmetics.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCAjws6jVBRBZEiwAkIfZ2m4dRqKPUKS8BhUr-GzxwO2MUZnx3_eLKkKXnLIN0IMR-RTD9WlZshoC4mIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds [Accessed 16 Mar. 2018]. 14. Rosenstein, J., 2017. The Best Makeup Trends for Spring 2018 [online]. Harpers Bazaar. Available at: https:// www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/makeup/g12189830/spring-2018-makeup-trends/ [Accessed 02/05 2018]. 15. Saner, E. (2018). Is there animal fat in your blusher? Why vegan makeup is on the rise. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/aug/28/animal-fat-blusher-vegan-makeup-rise-avoid-meatdairy-wool-leather-animal-cruelty-products [Accessed 2 Mar. 2018]. 16. Sleek Makeup. (2018). Sleek MakeUP | Makeup Products, Make Up Sets & Accessories. [online] Available at:

https://www.sleekmakeup.com/uk [Accessed 16 Mar. 2018]. 17. Superdrug.com. (2018). Superdrug | Beauty, Health, Skincare & Perfume. [online] Available at: https://www. superdrug.com/ [Accessed 16 Mar. 2018] 18. unknown, 2015. Tell me about “Sleek” makeup range please. MumsNet. 19. Unknown, Innovation and future trends in the cosmetics industry [online]. Cosmetics Europe. Available at: https:// www.cosmeticseurope.eu/cosmetics-industry/innovation-and-future-trends-cosmetics-industry/ [Accessed 01/28 2018]. 20. WGSN (2018). WGSN White Paper: Beauty in the Year 2020. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ blogs/white-paper-trends-beauty-2020/#bulletin [Accessed 2 Mar. 2018].

APPENDIX 1 STORMBOARD

APPENDIX 3 BLANK SURVEY This survey is being conducted for research at Nottingham Trent University. Aiming to gain beauty insights on consumers aged 18-30. All findings are kept confidential throughout, you may withdraw from the study at anytime. The information collated will be used in a report as part of Fashion Marketing & Branding course. Q1: What is your age? - 18-21 - 22-25 - 26-30 Q2: How often do you wear makeup? - Daily - Weekly - Monthly - Never Q3: What factors are most important to you in a beauty product? - Attractive Packaging - Easy to use - High pigmentation - High quality - Innovative products - Long-wearing - Multi-purpose - Skin Care benefits - Cruelty Free - Inclusivity (wide shade range) - Price - Creativity - Accessibility Q4: Do you believe there is a gap within the Beauty Cosmetics market? (E.g. an area which is not currently being catered for) Q5: If you said YES in the previous question, please state what/why. Q6: Please state below the reason(s) that you wear makeup. Q7: Which of the Beauty Trends (looks) below, do you use/would like to try? - Cut Crease - Contouring - Glitter - Metallic Lips - Temporary Freckles - Highlight - Graphic Liner - Big Lips - Instagram Brows - Glossy Eyelids - Ombre Lips - Dewy Skin Q8: What are your makeup frustrations? - Long makeup regime - Difficulty finding skin-tone match (founation etc). - Expense of products - Difficulty in applying eyeshadow (Pigment falldown, blending etc.)

Difficulty getting eyeliner to match (symmetry) Dry lips after using Matte lip product Blending (Foundation, contouring etc.) Matching eyebrows Finding the product for me Effort of removing makeup Minimal knowledge in applying certain products Not confident for certain looks Effort to clean makeup brushes

Q9: Are there any new beauty products on your wish list? (e.g. canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afford, limited availability etc.)

APPENDIX 3 SURVEY RESULTS

People of colour. It doesn’t just come down to foundation/concealer shades matching, deeper skin tones require different highlighter/blush tones, eye shadow pigments etc etc. Products which cater to the skin tones of women of colour (e.g. correct undertones) + products which are built around the Korean skincare system of skin care and hydration. Also, high quality cheap products. Brands are often not inclusive enough - eg eyeshadows that are too light or not pigmented enough for POC to use, poor shade ranges or undertones which do not match the majority of skin tones Not enough shade range on a chemist/drug store level Wider shade range Shade ranges don’t cater to darker skin tones We still have a long way to go in catering for people of colour. Boots and Superdrug are still a sea of beige, with occasional dips into one or two shades of brown. Pale, light and dark skintones need more face product options. Not wide enough shade range. Undertone is important not all pale people are pink. Makeup for people with very dark or very pale complexions, makeup that incorporates skincare, more cruelty-free products Skin tones on the extreme (pale, dark) have very limited options. Mainstream drugstore /affordable products that cater to people of colour. Shade ranges for people of color Makeup lacks inclusiveness for people of color, and is often also lacks representation by diverse persons. In both high end and cheaper make up there is not wide enough shade ranges. I think if you look at International markets, most things are covered. The next step is perfect shades and formulation for all skin types People on the lightest and darkest side of skin tone are dramatically under-served. Low cost vegan products Shade ranges are horrific still, and makeup doesn’t seem to cater for ageing skin skin tones in all skin care, unusual colours sold in drug stores (from lipstick to nail polish) The last question is unclear. Brown people. Good makeup is never cheap, cheap makeup is never cheap Affordable, trend-led, interesting makeup with a broad colour range. Basically, what colourpop does but accessible in the UK. Most UK brands take too long to hop on the bandwagon Extremely light skinned people/ extremely dark skinned people shades In the uk, foundations for olive and deeper skintones Cruelty free makeup is difficult to understand and find outside of a couple UK based brands Inclusivity of skin types and colours as a standard rather than a niche Complexion products for darker skin tones and wider range of undertones Foundation shade range. Drugstores often only stock 5-8 shades in the “normal” skin tones leaving pale and dark tones left without choice Range of colours and undertones

Darker/paler skin tones, more of a range of colours in lipsticks and nail polish- every season all the makers roll out the same colours as each other. Shade range, higher pigmentation/contrast for darker skin types Freckles. Everything covers them up. I want to flaunt them Shade ranges With most makeup brands their lightest foundation is too dark on me. There don’t seem to be many mid range brands that have my shade, and even less when I’m looking for cruelty free brands. My options are really cheap poor quality foundation or super expensive High street brands do not have pale enough Concealers and foundations with different undertones Customisable foundation colours, tool to find skin type I feel the shade ranges for foundations are typically to narrow in affordable brands (on both ends of the spectrum) aging collaborations

Enhancement Confidence and creativity It forces me to spend some time just taking care of myself in the morning/evening, and it allows me to express my creativity outwardly. To cover up acne and look ‘finished’. Makes me feel creative Because I love it. I enjoy being creative with makeup and also to boost how I feel about myself To fit in with everyone else. To make my skin look clearer/more even to be creative, and to even out my face and make it look more awake and presentable Confidence Control oily skin, even skin tone, enjoy experimenting with different colours and styles To boost my confidence, look more professional, out together It’s my hobby/creative outlet, and I prefer how my face looks with it so it makes me feel more confident. Confidence, creativity I like starting my day off by spending time to crate a look and listening to music. It’s just the way I prefer to start the day. It’s my “me” time. Makeup is a form of art, I like to express myself. Colour correction, skin illuminating, hydration To cover my acne/acne scars, to make myself more presentable and attractive Confidence, like the way it looks, it’s fun Confidence. Enhance how I look. It’s an artistic outlet. I love playing with colours and trying new prooducts. I don’t wear much makeup at all, but I like to polish under my eyes so they look a bit more alive as I’m constantly on the go, and I love accentuating my eyelashes as they’re already quite long, with a bit of mascara. Professionalism, to feel presentable Red patches To cover up blemishes/pigmentation. Makes me feel more confident For me it is a creative outlet, I love playing with colours and changing my face on a whim. I enjoy putting it on To feel good about myself, for myself I love the art of it. The colors, the textures, the shapes. I enjoy applying it and trying different things. It is fun! And it makes me feel better about myself. not show imperfections in my skin, make myself look better Look attractive, confidence, look professional, put together, fun and creativity Because I like it. I use it to look more mature at work, and enhance my features It makes me look better (evens out skin tone while providing some spf) which in turn enhances my confidence and I get positive reactions from people on it. Self Expression Because I look a better version of myself, and it makes me feel better its fun, i like to look pretty, Boost confindence. Enhance my features. To look more presentable, conceal acne, feel more confident and I enjoy the process of applying/choosing/buying makeup Pretty. Feels nice. It’s fun Confidence, creative expression, makes me feel pretty, covers up massive eye bags It makes me feel more confident. Makes me feel more like me. Creativity , self-confidence, societal expectation I enjoy doing it For fun, as a form of creativity

Personal expression or social convention Foundation and concealer ranges are limited. Should be more colours for groups other than white. I enjoy it and I like how it makes me look Increases my confidence, allows me to express my creativity with different colours and looks, helps cover my hyperpigmentation and rosacea Fun & creative. Covers problem skin. Highlights favoured features. Create better eyebrows. I like makeup. It’s my job. Confidence When I feel tired it’s nice to have a bit of a cover up. When going out socially and I prefer to dress up a bit It fulfills a certain creative urge (I really like coming up with new aesthetics / looks, e.g. an outfit for a particular theme). It also helps me feel more attractive, confident and badass Fun, enhancing Feel put together, more confident, more in control of how people perceive me Self expression, decoration To look put together/professional, to enhance features, to look rested, for fun I have a passion for it It makes me happy I have psoriasis and dark undereyes which I’m conscious of so I always cover these up. I feel more confident with makeup on and I enjoy experimenting with eyeshadow Enjoyment. To even my complexion. Confidence. Feel attractive. Makes me feel pretty and confident Because it is fun, to feel more attractive, due to social pressure Cover blemishes and show creativity Because I enjoy the process of applying it :) To feel good and look fresher It’s fun and creative. It’s me time. Makes me feel good, keeps my skin comfortable (skin is sensitive to wind and cold so some face products help create a barrier, like to be creative with things like eye make up. It’s an outlet to be creative everyday I enjoy the process of putting on makeup, it’s quite relaxing to me. I also like to look my best when leaving the house, although I sometimes just do a full face to make myself happy and experiment. Improve skin tone, confidence Makes me feel confident, I look better I enjoy it, I can boost my confidence and express myself To be creative and enhance my features I started when I was a teenager with bad skin to cover up. Then started getting creative with the colours/glitters etc. Now I wesr it as I’m a MUA and like to look my best. For myself, to feel and look better. I enjoy applying makeup and expressing my creativity. For self confidence and it genuinely makes me happy putting on make up and coming up with new looks. I see make up as a way of expressing yourself, I like the creativity of putting makeup on my face Fun hobby, cover skin problems, I like the way I look with it on I enjoy putting it on Creativity I like being creative with it and enjoy colour. Also for confidence reasons It’s therapeutic to put on and it’s a creative outlet for me For fun and to express creativity. I like applying it, I find it relaxing, it makes me feel good, I aim for compliments from colleagues, I like buying and collecting it. Improve confidence and practice technique. To act as a barrier against the world. To cover acne, to make myself feel good It makes me feel confident and I like the freedom of creativity It’s more of a hobby for me. I like myself with and without makeup but I like projecting my mood through my makeup! Because it is fun and I like to be creative Appearance in my job To feel good and to dress up an outfit covers spots, makes me look better, makes me feel confident Look good

Shape tape concealer High end eyeshadows, Huda Beauty matte liquid lipsticks and other high end matte liquid lipsticks, Colourpop eyeshadows, Nyx products Morphe Jaclyn hill - especially the colour ‘hunts’ Yes - mostly high end products, as I can easily purchase drugstore products for myself on my current salary fenty beauty foundation New foundation, currently mix a few shades as finding a colour match is difficult I would like more lipsticks, Charlotte Tilbury in particular, but I can’t afford them. I’d also like a contouring palette but it’s difficult to find one that will suit me without swatching and I hate buying blind because of the lack of returns policy in this country. Jeffree Star Blood Sugar Palette (waiting for UK release) I’d like an expensive tinted moisturiser for minimum coverage but good glow? That’s kind to sensitive and blemish prone skin. Mac Snowball Collection - was limited edition. Estée Lauder double wear - looking to find right shade before purchasing. KVD Sinner/Saint Pallet, Toofaced Peach line, anything Jstar or Sugarpill, More Kat von d liquid lipsticks Estée Lauder foundation, high end foundation Mostly online only brands, where I’m unable to try them in person somewhere and therefore am hesitant to pull the trigger the ordinary products, benefit primer Naked petit heat, too faced peaches and cream foundation (not available in the Uk), modern renaissance palette ABH No, I am over saturated with makeup Yes. As I get older I have become more aware of my own consumerism, therefore I have to want something for a while before I will buy it. I wait to see if I can Swatch it myself, see various looks being created first, to see if it will be beneficial, and I will actually use it! Makeup is expensive and the market is being saturated with releases of the same old thing from different companies. not really - theres nothing i plan to buy, i have everything i need. A high coverage, dewy foundation with SPF that is light enough but without pink undertones. So many. Everything by benefit. Kat von d eyeliner. Naked heat Everything colourpop (ridiculous customs fees), stila glitter and glow (too expensive), duochrome eyeshadow (online only via makeup geek/ other indie brands), makeup revolution concealer (amazing shade range and cruelty-free but no stock anywhere) No, except some non-cruelty free brands with interesting products that I cannot buy for moral reasons Yes but I can’t afford most of it A loose powder that doesnt create flashback and doesnt cling to dry patches (like the laura mercier one but without the £30 price tag) Skincare products from Sunday Riley Hmm. Currently searching for vegan + cruelty-free eyeshadow singles. It’s not that they’re unavailable, but I’m trying to minimise my environmental impact so I want to buy secondhand Holy grail foundation. Yet to find There is so much hype around Charlotte Tilbury, but it’s just so expensive No, I generally purchase what I really want Soft glam ABH pallet Modern renaissance palette Armani foundation YSL products Lip stains, Korean beauty and skin care products, new brushes of different sizes for eyeshadow looks Always looking for a foundation that matches my skin tone (have never found one), would like to try The Ordinary next but might wait for them to release watercolours. Would like to try Glossier boy brow but it’s slightly expensive and not very accessible. Benefit porefessional. Nyx glitter prismatic shadows. a really good foundation that matches my shade and is long-wearing while being water-based (sensitive to silicones :( Items/Brands only available in the US. Stilla Magnificent Metals, Anastacia Beverly Hills Soft Glam Palette (Budget) Fenty,

APPENDIX 4 FOCUS GROUPS FOCUS GROUP 1 Date: 12/02/18 Tirion Roberts Miriam Rodriguez Izzy Plummer Hannah Frost Kim Warren Rose Simonet Maddie Clarke TR: This is research for Nottingham Trent University, you are free to leave at anytime and these results will be kept confidential. MR: So I’m assuming Tirion’s already told you about what the while purpose of the focus group is for. That she’s explained that we’ve been given the brand Sleek and we need to come up with a new product, a new product development, so we’re just trying to find out some consumer insight into your makeup habits, your frustrations, and you know like what you love about make up and want you want more of, so we’re just going to be asking different questions and one question might then you know help us lead to another question, obviously we are all girls, we all get excited about makeup , so if we can just try and just let one person speak, especially because of the recording. But yeah if you then have anything that you don’t understand, or you need further explaining then just ask. Okay so first question, erm, I’m Miriam by the way, so the first question is, what is the one makeup product you couldn’t live without? So we’ll start over here MC: Is this like in our makeup bags or just like in the general sense? TR: Yeah, well if you’ve got it with you then fab, or you can just explain it MC: I’d probably say, like for me like its probably a brow product, like if I’m going somewhere without makeup the one thing I like doing is my brows, because mine like at the end aren’t so defined, like I have more hair at the front than I do at the end. So I have this NYX Pomade, so that’s the one I use erm, it dried out a little bit but Rose suggested I put a bit of oil in it, MR: oooh MD: Yeah so I just used a little angled brush, but that’s the one thing that I’ll do, if I’m doing one bit of makeup I’ll always o my brows first. So 100% that one. TR: Hannah? HF: Probably, because my skin can be really bad sometimes, I’ve got like the bare minerals powder foundation, so it’s good because you can either have it really natural like if I’m going out without any makeup on you can just brush it all over or like I can make it full face. And its good as well, cause its good for my skin so it helps like its not like normal foundations, it doesn’t clog your pores, it lets your skin breathe still so, that why I Like it. TR: Interesting, Go on Rose RS: Id say just eyebrow mascara, because if I was having a no makeup day, and I just, and I don’t wat to look like constantly surprised with no eyebrows then I will just, eyebrow mascara, just because I feel like if you have full on eyebrows like proper pencil them in, but with no other makeup you look like a bit weird. TR: what about you Kim? KW: Erm, I’d probably say concealer, so then, when you just don’t want to wear any make up you can just put a bit under your eyes or anywhere and then you’re good to go! MR: So kind of like, with each of your different products, like you’d be happy and confident going out the house just wearing all of those? Group: Yeah *laughter* Yeah So like you with your brows, you’d just powder RS: I mean none of us have made an effort today MR: and then you like your, like for example I’ve only got mascara and eyebrows on right now and I feel okay, Like I’m alright to go out the house like that so you think its, just those products itself they kind of give you KW: Confidence! HF: I think it depends on what I’m doing though, like if I was like, on my course I do filming and stuff and if I knew I was going to be on camera I wouldn’t just wear my bare minerals but if I’m just going to a lecture sometimes I don’t even need to wear that like MR: Yeah HF: Like I’m happy to just not wear any. But generally, yes MR: Yeah, okay

HF: But it does depend on what I’m doing TR: So Hannah’s product is also good for your skin, is there any products that anyone else uses that has benefits KW: Mine is not good for my skin, mine is purely just makeup RS: yeah TR: Do you have any others Hannah? HF: Erm apart from sometimes I use their Warmth, they’ve got this bronzer thing called warmth, so I sometimes use that as a bronzer, but I usually use the Hoola bronzer instead, like all their powdered stuff id good for your skin, but the bronzers not as good as the Hoola bronzer so I generally don’t use it as much TR: Yeah HF: But that’s the only other thing I think I’ve got that’s good for your skin. TR: Erm, what is your favourite product to put on when you’re going for a night out? KW: I’d say mines lipstick, I think wait TR: A statement lip? KW: yeah like a statement lipstick, cause then it just like completes your face and makes your face, or maybe mascara! Mascara and lipstick RS: They’re your favourite thing KW: Maybe lipstick for a night out, yeah lipstick MC: mines definitely highlighter, like nothing, I feel like definitely for a night out. For uni or for every day, not so much but I know if on a night out I wanna like, in the lights and with flash photography, like people always say ‘oooh people with highlighter look so nice’ I just think that it like really just completes, light just like the highpoints of your face and like down your nose and on our cupids bone and stuff definitely. I think its fun to put on too because it makes me look shiny. *laughter* MR: Do you wear highlighter just for you normal day? Or do you just specifically just put it on for your night? Or do you maybe wear it in the day and then maybe put more on? MC: Id probably say, like, in general when I go on nights out I tend to do my makeup heavier. So I kind of have like a goldy kind-of highlighter that I bought with me today that I have in a palette for nights out more. But in the day like, I do the same course as Hannah, I do journalism so sometimes I’m on camera so sometimes, like I have an icy like a whiter one that I can put on so it doesn’t so blinding but like in general if I’m just popping to the shops or something I wont put highlighter on but I put a lot on just for a night out MR: Okay cool TR: Hannah, your favourite product for night out? HF: I like doing my eyeshadow I think, I’ve got like erm, I’ve got my favourite one that I’ve just had for Christmas is the Two faced one, I can’t remember which one it is, I think it’s the Naturals one or something like that. But its literally got like, it’s a big pallet, it’s got so many eyeshadows and they’re all shimmery and its so pretty *laughter* HF: and then I’ve got this one from Buxom, there is so good cause you can, you go in and you like chose like you choose the pallet and then you choose which shades like which eyeshadow you want RS: And you put them in the thing HF: Yeah so then you put them in the pallet. And like they have so many so I just got six. And then makeup Geek do a similar sort of thing where you choose them erm I’ve got that, I’ve got the erm, what’s it called, the Morphe one, I think I’ve got the 350, and then Urban Decay Naked 2 and Naked 3, but I just like eyeshadow RS: you just like eyeshadow *laughter* IP: So what would draw you to a pallet is it like the colours or? HF: Erm at the minute I like, I go through phases so like sometimes I like matte and sometimes I like shimmery, but it annoys me when you get a pallet and its only got shimmery shades in cause it limits it, I think it’s nice when it’s got like variation MC: Yeah TR: Do they all tend to be natural colours or are you quite experimental? HF: Erm the one I was talking about, the two faced one I like at the Minute that’s quite natural, it’s got like a couple of pinks in it but generally its natural, erm but yeah, I think I like RS: you’re not like a bright blue person HF: no like I’m not a colourful person, I’m like browns and like subtle stuff RS: I like a bit of colour MC: yeah, I thinks its important they have like both, because when you’re doing like your transition like in your crease like just to have a subtle beige or like peach or something, I would never put like a blue straight on to my eye. So it important I think that all pallets have a transition colour and then maybe like a white to blank our the whole of your lid first and then maybe a combination of brighter matte colours and shimmers and then maybe like a black or a dark brown so you can like smoke it out a bit more RS: hmm TR: Rose, any products for a night out? RS: got to put my real cheek bones on *laughter* RS: so its 100% my contour, And my highlighter HF: Oh you’ve got the iconic one haven’t you? RS: Yeah I love my iconic pallet, no my iconic pallet is my favourite thing in the world, it’s my best friend MR: just before we move on, what was that brand called you said, before Makeup Geek? HF: Buxom, its spelt B U X O M KW: I have never heard of them before MR: No, neither

HF: they’re in Debenhams and stuff KW: oh so they’re not in boots? HF: no they are quite expensive though that’s the only problems, they’re like, that cost me like £30 something pound and I only got 6 eyeshadows in it MR: but you chose those? HF: yeah I chose them, so like, they’ve got like 100 different eyeshadows you can choose from and I just chose my favourites, and you can get bigger pallets and stuff as well but obviously I’m poor so, I went for the cheapest option TR: on that note, how much do you all tend to spend on makeup? MC: What like eyeshadow pallets or? MR: Just in general hmm so MC: Id probably say like I’m quite drugstore prices like I don’t particularly own, like I don’t own any of the Naked eye pallets, I don’t own erm. I mean my sister bought me this Zoeva eyeshadow pallet for Christmas that I’ve got but I don’t think that, I’m sure it’s not that high end HF: erm well no, that’s like, I’d say is 18 MC: Yeah, I mean its probably in the middle HF: yeah its probably £18/20 MC: Well I mean that’s got 8 shadows in so I’d probably say if I was buying it Id probably pay between 15 and 20. I think £40 for the naked pallets are too much for the colour ranges in them HF: hmm MC: I mean the Heat pallet has some brighter ones but I’d say for the other ones for £40 and the amount I’d use it I wouldn’t say its worth it. As a student, for me that’s too expensive. But I don’t know about what you think HF: er I think I’m a bit different I probably shouldn’t but I live beyond my means. I’d rather have, and my little sisters the same to be fair. We’d both rather have like save and buy fewer more expensive items than have more cheaper items, but RS: 100% yeah HF: but I prefer the quality for the more high-end stuff like I genuinely think it is better. KW: see I’m like full on, I find cheap makeup the same as like expensive make up, I think it’s the same and, I’m like, I’d rather just pay for cheap makeup RS: I’m the opposite, I KW: yeah see I don’t care about the brand, I’m just if it works, it works! It does the job RS: see I’m like a full on Urban decay, benefit, mac. Like I got the for £7 and I used it once. Until I just decided to spunk out and got a £30 from Mac TR: On that note, do any of you own any dupes? Or any you want to get, or would consider? MC: I’ve got heard, like I’m quite a you tube watcher, I really like watching makeup tutorials on YouTube and I’ve heard so many people say about this new Superstay Maybelline foundation. And I heard loads of people say it was like a dupe for loads of high end full coverage foundations like, I’d definitely say for something, I can’t remember how expensive it was but it was definitely under £10, its definitely one of the best foundations I’ve ever had like coverage wise. I can layer it on, its keeps my skin matte and people have compared it to the tarte shape tape, you know the £40 foundations that’s just come out. And I’d honestly never pay that much money, and a lot of youtubers are actually saying they think this one better because its longer lasting so. Id say since getting into You tube I’m definitely, 100% like a dupe girl. An I really like stuff like that. I think its important, you get a lot of websites that just copy what other brand are done, like use the same colour range and similar packaging, but then just stamp a different name on it like I’m not down for that but like the kind of product that people have tested out and are similar quality and colour and stuff, I think are nice to have especially when you’re on a budget or whatever TR: yeah HF: I don’t really have any I don’t think RS: The only thing I have really is a number 7 highlighter I got when I really, really, really wanted the iconic one. And I still do KW: the liquid droppy one? HF: oh yeah *sounds of agreement* RS: oh yeah that’s the one I’m dying for. And I’m going to have to get it at some point because mines running out. TR: Would you not consider getting a product even if it, the drugstore product had really good reviews, you know like people have raved about Sleeks highlighter, so would you still just go for the iconic, so would you still go for that even if loads of youtubers said there was a drugstore one that was better? RS: hmm to be fair I think id still go for the iconic. Just because I’ve got my iconic pallet and I live it so, I don’t know I just quite like the brand, and obviously celebrities use it so MR: so would you like, you’re quite brand loyal then? RS: no! well I mean I pick the slightly more expensive brand just because just because I don’t mind spending the money that I’ve got so I’ve got urban decay, benefit MR: but so example the iconic, and you want to get that because of I guess your experience with, is it the contour kit? RS: Yeah because I know its good TR: do you have any product you’ve got that are new and exciting or you want to get maybe? RS: I have two! I have my lip topper and then I have this one, which I literally bought earlier which Is just like a shimmery lipstick. TR: in a pencil? RS: yeah. And then this one, this is a topper which just goes on top of anything MR: a lip topper? RS: yeah so its literally like you have a lipstick and then if you want it to be shimmery and shiny then yeah. But I’m also currently putting it on my eyelids as well. Everywhere!

TR: so you like, although its sold as a lip product, you use it as a multi-use product? MR: so yeah, going off that, the whole thing of multi-use. I personally went though a stage where I went crazy with my makeup, and I would only buy like high end brands. And if I bought something that could be used as a multi-use product, like even if I was expensive I’d still buy, for example if there was a product for your lips and your cheek bones, I personally would buy two separate products. KW: oh yeah so would I! MR: How would you feel if you were to use a product for different areas of your face, like would you be comfortable, or would you only put one product for a specific area, does that make sense? HF: I think I prefer to have two products for two separate things, because I prefer, I think if one product is mean to do two things RS: its probably sh*t at both HF: yeah like, it does both okay, but it limits it by doing both if that makes sense, it could just do two sperate thing and do them really well. That’s probably not the case but in my head that’s how I would see it. MR: yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah HF: unless it was like a product like Roses where it’s a product labelled for one thing but then I choose to use it for different things. That might be a bit different yeah. TR: what about eyeshadow and you use if for a highlighter RS: that’s what I do MC: Yeah things like that, and also I sometimes find that like for transitional colour like brown and stuff like I was talking about before I always find a simple bronzer or something like that just because it’s a simple powder but I just don’t think. For me like Rose saying shed put a lip topper on her eyes, for me like my eyes are quite hooded and for my eyes I don’t think that would be very comfortable because its quite a sticky texture so I’d probably have to use the same type of product so power where id use powder not cream where id use power and that kind of thing MR: yeah MC: no but I think multi use products are good, I just think you have to be careful of like the consistency and like where else it would be used on your face like if it would still be comfortable or visible and that it would irritate and that sort of thing. MR: so with the whole kind-of multi-use kind-of concept it kind-of allows for creativity in terms of what you can do like you might have a product that’s not meant to be used on your eyes at all and its like a different kind-of look. Like creativity wise, with multi-use products, is that something you’d kind-of be up for? KW: Id be up for it but sometimes you just can’t be bothered because you just like put it on, and then you go MC: I feel like I would be, I wouldn’t want to do a whole full face of makeup and then not be sure about whether the product would work and then out the product on and hate it. For me it’s like, if I’m buying a bronzer it’s because I know its work as a bronzer whereas I would be concerned, like I would just have to test it before. I just wouldn’t wanna put something on my eyes for it not to look right of reel uncomfortable so for me personally id agree with what Hannah said and id just buy it for what it is purely because I wouldn’t wanna go to all the effort of trying it and seeing if I’m comfortable with it. Obviously if I’m buying lipstick anyway or if I’m buying a lip topper anyway and I’m trying to use it for something else then that’s fine but I wouldn’t ever buy a lipstick just for the use of putting it on my eyelids or something like that because I just I wouldn’t wanna go to all the trial process of seeing if it would work MR: Okay TR: as an alternative to multi use products, do you have multiple products that do the same thing? Like do any of you have more than one foundation for different occasions and why? HF: I have erm, my bare Minerals one obviously for general day to say stuff, sometimes I wear it on a night out if my skins like urgh but erm normally when I go out out I use like proper liquid foundation because I know it’s a one of so I know it doesn’t matter if I wear it occasionally. So I have my, sometimes I wear my makeup forever one but I need to get a different one of that because it’s a bit light and then I’ve got my urban decay, I don’t know what its called … Urban decay naked skin foundation, that ones good! Erm so that’s what I wear on a night out TR: fuller coverage than? HR: errr Makeup Forever’s a lot fuller coverage than the Urban decay one but they both are more full-coverage over the Bare Minerals yeah. Because Bare Minerals I don’t think it lasts as long as the liquid one, that’s the only downside to it, that I have to keep applying it if I’m wearing it for a long period of time MR: hmm MC: yeah I’m the same about foundation, that Maybelline one I use on nights out, full coverage, but like during the day like the only times I wear it during the day is when I’m at work so I know I’m going to be there for a long amount of time and it’s going to get quite hot. Other than that I have like a Rimmel London one, the one that’s got the applicator on, it’s a new one that just came out, its just a really thin, lightweight foundation just because it doesn’t clog my pores like id probably say its more of a tinted moisturiser really than a foundation, its got a really sheer coverage so, And I also have a darker foundation which is Rimmel as well if I ever like, I used that in summer times when I’m tanned or if I just wanna darken the foundation that I have, I just like mix it in a little bit, but I don’t use that one so often because obviously right now its too dark for me so MR: yeah KW: Yeah I have different shades, because then when you’re tanned or sometimes I like to mix the two shades together, but I don’t have different shades, I’ve had the same foundation since I was in like year 10, I never mix up my foundations but I just have different shades, for when you’re tanned or when you’re on holiday RS: I don’t have different anything, I just have one of everything, or if I’ve got two of anything its only because ones run out or I’m just keeping it in my bag for no reason IP: so do you find it annoying to have to buy a darker shade at some point when you get a tan or whatever or does it like, not bother you? RS: its annoying spending money

KW: I think its more exciting, in a weird way because then like, it doesn’t annoy me but then maybe it does when you’ve already got a full foundation and you have to buy a darker one and then you can only use that one for a certain period of time because you’re not gunna stay tanned for a long period on time, But it doesn’t annoy me but maybe TR: a frustration? KW: Yeah, yeah because of like money and then you kind-of waste it MC: yeah my dark one sometimes just sits there and I’m like, I used it last summer but then by next summer there’s a possibility it might of gone off so, I don’t know what the life is like for products like that but normally when I’m tanned I just accept that I don’t wear foundation. Normally my skins a lot better when I’m tanned anyway so it’s not so much of an issue but definitely yeah id say it is a pain if you’re going away, because you’re like, as you said our tan fades after time so if you’ve got a foundation that matches you on holiday like a week after you get home that might not be the right colour for you anymore KW: yeah TR: finally, is there any products you think would make your makeup routine or daily makeup routine quicker or easier? RS: like one of them airbrushing machines HF: oh yeah I’ve seen them, they’re so expensive though, like a cheap one of them RS: so you can just go ‘chsssh chssh chsss’ and your face is perfect MC: I’ve seen sometimes this brush called the Clarasonic, erm like its already invented now but its really expensive, its like one of them brush heads, that you wash your face with, and you can get an applicator that goes on it so it vibrates and for stuff like cream contour and stuff apparently its meant to be really good KW: ahhh I’ve seen that MC: yeah like people rave about it saying it’s a really good brush but obviously it would be really nice if like one could be brought out at like drugstore or even from like urban decay or something which people could afford cause this ones like literally something ridiculous, like hundreds of pounds. So something that would lie, cause I find sometimes like when I’m doing cream contour I personally find it really hard to blend out like without just leaving lines on my face so I literally never wear cream. So if there was someway of blending it that would be easier than lets say a sponge like that would be good HF: urm, similar sort of thing, not really my makeup routine, its like this thing you can use to clean your brushes cause that’s like my biggest thing, I should do it but I do it like once every month probably when I should do it way more often. And its this thing, and you put it in, and well you clean it, and its spins round and then it dries it in like seconds! KW: yeah! HF: and I would definitely use one of them if there was a cheaper option because that still like £30/40 and I just don’t want to pay that just to clean my makeup brushes MC: I feel like Primark and that do like brushy ones RS: I’d love something that could just get rid of your bags like HF: No!! RS: like one of them things that have liquid in it and you put it on and then like 2 minutes later your bags are just gone HF: no my mum has that! My mum has this thing, and its so weird, like she ordered it online ‘cause she saw it erm and she puts it on, it lasts all day, puts it under her eyes and her and her bags go. You would think she doesn’t have bags, but then she washes it off and, she says her eyes are like that, but yeah she washes it off and obviously her bags come back but yeah! I’ll tell her to, do you want me to tell you what it is? RS: yeah because I always put like layers and layers and layers and layers of concealer on and it’s just still blue MC: you need colour corrector! RS: yeah I need the orange one. I need to get the orange one. TR: so do any of you have any opinions of Sleek as a brand? We’ve found their especially known for their highlighters, but is there any observations you have of the brand or any products you might considering buying? MR: or why you wouldn’t buy from there as well KW: I think I would buy from there because I’ve never really even heard of it until, like its not a really well known kind of brand because It hasn’t been around for a long time MC: it’s in Superdrug isn’t it? KW: Yeah and then you go in to like, and then its just a really small stand as well, so you don’t really, they don’t seem to have a massive variety, but I personally just don’t know it HF: I remember I used to quite like it, I used to get it, when I was just starting to get into makeup I remember it coming out when I was maybe in year 10 or 11 or something and I started using a couple of their things, and from what I can remember I liked it it’s just I prefer more expensive stuff KW: I feel as well you stick with the brands you know and that you’re used to and you trust their products so sometimes you don’t wanna buy products from a makeup brand you haven’t really heard much of MR: hmm hmm okay MC: yeah like I think I’d try products from there like RS: honestly if they’ve got a good highlighter, I’m there MC: Yeah like if I saw something if I liked then obviously it would be something I’d buy but from what I remember when I went into the Superdrug in like Nottingham and I remember seeing them like the stand right at the back, by the time I’ve walked up and seen everybody else’s like all the other brands of makeup KW: yeah MC: you kind of feel like, you’ve normally already found like a highlighter or something from one of the first stands, which mean like I almost feel like I need a reason to walk to the back of the shop to the stand, so if there was something, like Id heard about that was like this new crazy thing that maybe everyone was talking about like I’d definitely go and check them out but like sometimes I feel like its harder for smaller brands to get on the scene because like everything been done, and like if its been done well, like Kim said then like if brand they know like Rimmel and Maybelline and brands that they know are probably cheaper for better quality because like smaller businesses have to make profit at the

end of the day don’t they. TR: Have you seen their packaging and does that affect them in any way? KW: like its quite dark, and I think it makes it look expensive MC: yeah it looks quite cool actually! RS: yeah very sleek KW: yeah like their packaging cause it’s in like cardboard. HF: its simple isn’t it as well, which makes it look better KW: yeah and it doesn’t like catch your attention RS: it’s kind of like urban decay, like it’s quite dark, it’s like really cool. HF: yeah I was gunna say, it’s quite like RS: its quite like young, cool, they’ve got really cool eyeshadows and that, so I feel like if that’s the packaging they’ve got then that would be good KW: yeah MC: I mean for me the actual logo of the brand like doesn’t do that much for me, its just a plain black background, with pink on the front, so immediately if someone showed me these different, compared to like Maybelline, whatever else you have, natural collection, that sort of thing, there’s nothing that really screams to me like oh we’re a really nice, new, modern makeup brand, like with the logo they have I’m just a bit like hmm, it’s just another brand like it’s not anything that stands out to me that much. I find like dark, I get the idea where they’re coming from, from it looking expensive but I think from being in the drug store, you’re not meant to be expensive so why would you try and look expensive. Like if you’re trying to appeal to people on a budget then maybe possibly younger people rather than adults, like maybe people younger than us, Id say maybe brighter and colourful is more competitive in somewhere like the drug store instead of dark, because I don’t think makeup is dark, I think its meant to make you stand out and make you look pretty so I just think blacks just not that colour. MR: Hmm cause like Mac and Bobbi Brown, their packaging’s like black as well so like they’re very well-known but like girls go in their flocks to go in their stores and stuff but then its probably because they actually have their own individual stores, where like the product variety is huge and like the store itself is colourful and then the packaging itself is just like black so it kind of like balances it out. So do you think if the packaging was to be more like colourful or I don’t even know, like see through or so then you could like see into the product, would that ten kind of catch you eye? Like if you were walking by? MC: yeah I don’t know HF: I just think ID still just still look at t and think ‘uuurh cheeeap’ RS: Yeah I think I like the dark packaging and pink writing, maybe, maybe not like bright pink maybe something a bit different but I like the dark, I would just say that the brand just needs to like put itself out there a bit more HF: maybe they just need to just give people sample RS: like advertising maybe opens stores, open their own shops HF: yeah just so people know about them and know that they’re good quality and then people could go to them and then they could have their own shop! MR: Erm, just like one of the last questions about like makeup trends, erm, is there anything you’ve seen on like Instagram or Facebook or like some of the new stuff that you might try for like a night out of like you think are pretty cool? KW: For me, I would say coloured eyeliner, but I don’t really follow trends, RS: You’re such a trend setter, aren’t you? KW: *laughter* and then like, metallic lipstick RS: Metallic everything, shimmery everything KW: yeah HF: I want to try like all the eyeshadow stuff they do, like really cool cut crease, you’ve got like the halo eyes when they do like shimmer in the middle. I mean I already sort of try them but like not very good but like I wanna try more things! Specially to do with e FOCUS GROUP 2: Date: 26/02/18 Tirion Roberts Hannah Frost Kim Warren Rose Simonet Maddie Clarke TR: This is research for Nottingham Trent University, you are free to leave at anytime and these results will be kept confidential. So basically, we’ve come up with 3 ideas. I’ll talk then through to you and we’ll see which one you like most! MC: Sounds good TR: So the first idea is like a stacking pencil, so you know those pencils you used to get at you like pop one out the top and put it in the bottom? HF: Ohhh TR: So we’d do it for like an Ombre lip, and you get like 4 different products you need for an Ombre lip in one KW: oh yeah I like that TR: but obviously it would just have to be designed so that it wasn’t too messy or fiddly HF: yeah I was gunna say that, wouldn’t it be quite fiddly RS: also, you know like people already do that like a thing with a lipstick on each end so that you just have both together TR: yeah, like NYX do them and stuff already. So moving on, how about a clear foundation. So like, the foundation comes in a set of 3 and you get one completely clear foundation that kindof like a primer, so it has like vitamin C and good stuff like that in it. And then you get 2 pots, like you can buy fair, medium or dark, and then you get 2 pots of pigment, one

light and one dark so that you can make your own foundation KW: oooh that sounds well snazzy RS: yeah I like that TR: So then also you can make it high or low coverage depending on how much colour pigment you put in and then also can make it darker like if you’ve been on holiday HF: that sounds so cool I’d buy that!! TR: oh, and then also you could buy separately like a matte or an illuminating thing too RS: no, I love that! I’d defo buy that!! TR: the problems with it though would be catering for undertones like yellowy skin and stuff, and also if you’re adding white it could go ashy MC: yeah the only thing is aswell, don’t NYX do stuff like that already? TR: yeah so they have drops you can add to your foundation to make it darker or lighter MC: Ahh okay TR: And then our final idea is an eye shadow pallet. And its all about the experience and like how it makes you feel and stuff, so it would be about improving self confidence MC: Oh have you seen Kylies new makeup palette? She’s just bought one out and when you open it, it makes storm noises and she’s got highlighters and lip kits RS: Uh yeah, its cool to be fair TR: So then MC: I watched a review on it to be fair though and apparently it’s not very good TR: So then basically, all the colours of the palette are inspired by crystals so like the black one is all about relieving negativity and the pink colour would be about empowering you RS: ahhh TR: and then another would help with like positive vibes, like all the crystals have different meanings, you know like healing crystals HF: yeah yeah RS: That sounds so cool!! TR: And then so it would be called the self-love palette, so like S would be like Smile, O would be optimistic, V would be vibrant RS: No I love those HF: and they’re all different colours? TR: yes MC: One thing I’m surprised they haven’t done with eyeshadow palettes is, like you know like not the actual palette but the bit the eyeshadow actually goes in, into letters so you could like spell a name out of the shapes KW: kind of like personalised eyeshadow palette TR: well we were thinking of doing that but like embossed the letters in, so it spells self love but into the like round MC: oh I love that! TR: because we were going to use hearts but we thought that was too much like Too-faced or kindof childish. KW: yeah yeah MC: Yeah imagine if they did personalised palettes and you could pick like 3 colours for every letter of your name or whatever KW: Wil the packaging be silver cause the crystals like TR: Yeah, well we were thinking holographic. KW: Oh yeah TR: And then it would also come with these little cards so like pick me ups, like I don’t know ‘slay today’ or like ‘you are you and that’s enough’ so then you’d have the confidence then. And we’d have one neutral palette and one colourful one and then youd be like ‘Yeah! I am gunna wear this colour!’ KW: yeah TR: and then gunna make you positive and inspired KW: yeah I’m gunna slay today!! RS: fair HF: awwwh so inspirational! TR: so like, do you think? RS: Yeah I love that HF: I don’t know, I like that. MC: make sure each palette has a transitional shade and a base shade though TR: yeah yeah they will do! Thank you girls for your help! FOCUS GROUP 3: Georgia Martin Hannah Freeman, Emma Mendel, Amy Susskind 14/2/18 GM: This is research for Nottingham Trent University about an NPD for Sleek, you can withdraw at any point. GM: When going out would you go for a statement eye or lip?

HF: Eye- because more that you can do to your eye than lip and it makes you look better EM: Different styles of eye -shadow bring out your eyes whereas lips is more simple AS: Eye- statement makes a different to your outfit lips doesn’t really change an outfit AS: Eye – because more practical when you are going out. For example drinking, lips can get ruined easily eyes can stay longer. People focus on eyes more. Fun to experiment with eye shadow rather than lips GM: Are there any looks or trends you have seen recently that you want too try? AS: Different colours in the middle of the eye to make your eye stand out more. A lighter colour in the middle and brighter around the sides EM: Using more vibrant colours, makes it stand out more – want to HF :Urban decay pallet, reds, oranges and browns go too look GM: What trends have you seen online or on youtube that you want too try? HF: Celebrities – natural look effortless enjoy doing that now GM: 4) Do you ever see trends that you want to try but don’t know how? HF: Yes all the time. Celebrity makeup artists for example do bright, vibrant colours in a way that does not look too intense. I want too learn how too do that EM: Fashion shows- Gloss on your eyes so it is all shiny, normally no body would think of doing that GM: Does time prevent you from doing the makeup look that you want too do? HF: No not really, its about having skills GM & AS What about on a commute? Is there a product that would make your day simpler and easier? EM: Nice eyes but in a rush – Yes a good eye primer would be useful or small compact mirror GM: Do you ever experiment with different looks? HF: Different colours, sometimes a colour that perhaps matches your eye colour or a colour that you like, eye liner/ no eyeliner. Eyelashes/ no eyelashes EM: Colour relating to your outfit e.g red outfit lighter eye or smokey eye AS :Change colour of lips according to outfit GM: Do you struggle knowing what products to buy when trying a new look? HF: NO GM: What is your inspiration? HF: Youtube, Instagram, makeup bloggers AS: Friend what others are wearing EM:If a friend is good at makeup ask them EM: Brands will send makeup to people who have a wide following FOCUS GROUP 4 Georgia Martin Robbi Kersh, Emma Mendel, Hannah Freeman 26th February 2018 GM: This is research for Nottingham Trent University about an NPD for Sleek, you can withdraw at any point. GM: We have been asked to create a new product design for Sleek and we have 3 main ideas, I am going to show you the ideas that myself and my group have come up with and I need your opinion on them, why you like them etc GM: Idea No1: This is a stackable lip pen, like the ones used for colouring in as a child! The idea is to create ombre/ contoured lips in a convienient way for consumers. Allowing people to create their own unique looks through different colours in any easy accessible way, (showed a demonstration). It comes with different colours and you can swap the colours around. Do you like it? HF: Thoughts: If it has stacked up it could be fiddly to use, the colours could break and it will be hard to use if you are trying to get definition and a straight line. ( Struggled to understand the idea) RK :I wouldn’t buy it, it is too fiddly to use and more effort than it is worth. I think it would break easily and be a waste of money, I would EM: rather use my own choice of lipsticks to create the look that I want. RK: I also don’t think the colours would fit to everyone, some people like really light lips so use a mixture of products/ some people like really dark lips so use products from different brands.

Idea No2: ME: The second idea that we came up with is a Clear Foundation. The foundation comes clear with no colour in it; The idea is for consumers to create the exact shade that they want that fits their exact skin tone as in our primary research we found that peoples main issue is that brands do not cater to either really light or really dark skin tones. This foundation comes with light medium and dark colours and a palette as well as empty bottles, allowing consumers to mix and match colours to create their exact shade for a foundation that is useful as well all year round. GM : What are your thoughts on this product being Sleeks new product design: EM: I would definitely buy that and use it, it would be so useful for when you are tanned for those few weeks as well after being on holiday. However I am not sure if there would be too much in a box,that would be too big to go on the shelves. HF: I really like it, I think it is a really good idea, I have really pale skin and sometimes feel like foundations make my skin look yellow. But I also think some more luxury brands already have a similar ideas GM: Idea N03: This idea is the called the Self- Love Eye- shadow palette. The idea of this is to make consumers feel good emotionally and physically as we think that makeup brands only think about consumers physical needs and do not think about how products can make a consumer feel. This is two different palettes, one is natural with lighter shades creating a more subtle look and the second is a bright vibrant palette, creating a more out there look. We are trying to link to Sleeks current ideas of consumers wearing what they want and expressing themselves through makeup and not worrying about judgement. Each colour represents different crystals and the crystals have a meaning of how they make a consumer feel, it is multi layered ( showing the packing and examples) and comes with a set of pick me ups ( showing pick me ups on the laptop screen). GM: What are your thoughts on the crystals? RK AND HF I do like the idea of the crystals but not sure if it is cliché, not many people believe in the idea of crystals it may be hard to appeal to everyone. I agree – I think that not everyone no1 needs the idea of self love and will buy into that, they would probably look to buy an eyes-shadow palette they know and love EM :I also agree. GM: What are your thoughts on the two separate palettes? EM: I don’t think that people would buy both palettes, you should make a longer palette that fits all the colours. Me: Yes, but one is for winter and one is for summer for example festivals use bright, vibrant colours. EM: Oh that is a good idea. However I still do think that the idea is too cliché. I really like all the colours you have used, they all would blend really well. GM: Would you buy the palette? RK: Due to the colours and it is a really cool idea what they represent, plus they give you a range of colours, and I like how you have thought mainly about the consumer as I haven’t purchased a eyeshadow palette like that. HF: How much is it? GM: £8.99 HF: That is really good Showed group packaging: ALL: Preferred silver holographic and brighter multi-coloured one. - Packaging really stands out. GM: Out of all ideas which one is your favourite. Two said Eyeshadow and one said foundation . Thank you very much for your time.

APPENDIX 5 INTERVIEWS INTERVIEW 1: Date: 06/03/2018 Interviewer: Miriam Rodriguez-Juarez Interviewee: Cristina Lazzarotto Occupation: Professional Freelance Makeup Artist Date: 06/03/2018 Interviewer: Miriam Rodriguez-Juarez Interviewee: Elizabeth Rodriguez-Juarez Occupation: Avid Makeup User Recommendations and Improvements for final product (Self-Love eyeshadow) - “Holographic design/print appeals more to the younger consumer” (ER) - “The exterior is not so much as important as to what is actually inside the product. The colours/pigmentation is what counts” (CL) - “Could they possibly be limited edition palettes?” (ER) - “Potentially could be more of a ‘seasonal’ product release: Spring/Summer/Autumn/Winter” (ER) - “Definitely use black print instead of the original Sleek pink logo, as it will stand out more as it is different, and suits the overall packaging more” (CL) - “Bright colours are great for being able to express yourself and it makes it easy having it all in a palette so you can create different looks” (CL) INTERVIEW 2: Date: 01/03/2018 Interviewer: Miriam Rodriguez-Juarez Interviewee: Rayanne Ellis Occupation: Makeup Artist at SpaceNK & Freelancer Questions: 1. Being a makeup artist and using makeup pretty much every day - what would you say is your GO-TO product that you always need to have in your kit. And no matter what the ‘look, or style’ of the makeup, you still always use? “Primer- always use a primer because it helps to balance out people’s skin and is the best step to perfecting the base- Laura Mercier one’s are my fav because they are water based so they help with longevity but have a little bit of silicone for smoothness.” 2. Can you describe any makeup/beauty frustrations you personally have yourself or the clients express to you? “Beauty frustrations how social media has created unrealistic makeup looks that only look good in a photo or on eyeshapes.” 3. If there was a ‘multi-use’ product, does that attract you to use/buy the product. Or do you prefer having separate products for specific areas on the face? “I like multi use products and I am often using products for different areas of the face.” 4. Do you believe/agree that when women/men use makeup, brands should do more to create an ‘experience’ for the users. So, it’s more enjoyable and fun? “Definitely; a part of the buying and using Makeup is the experience, the creativity, and the ability to express yourself, people are drawn to brands that play on this, because the brand feels more personalized and that builds loyalty in clients to the brand.” 5.What stands out the most to you about the ‘Self-Love Eyeshadow palette? “It is extremely unique and different, I personally don’t think I have come across something like this before – it has its own unique edge” Date: 01/03/2018 Interviewer: Miriam Rodriguez-Juarez Interviewee: Caroline Kent Occupation: Professional Freelance Makeup Artist Questions: 1. Being a makeup artist and using makeup pretty much every day - what would you say is your GO-TO product that you always need to have in your kit. And no matter what the ‘look, or style’ of the makeup, you still always use? “This is extremely hard to say 1 product, so I’ll have to say a few that are always used - moisturizer, foundation, blush,

mascara”. 2.Can you describe any makeup/beauty frustrations you personally have yourself or the clients express to you? “Makeup staying put and Shine control” 3.If there was a ‘multi-use’ product, does that attract you to use/buy the product. Or do you prefer having separate products for specific areas on the face? “It doesn’t particularly attract me, but I guess it would be a bonus if it worked well. I’m more attracted to products for specific areas on the face.” 4. Do you believe/agree that when women/men use makeup, brands should do more to create an ‘experience’ for the users. So, it’s more enjoyable and fun? “I think ease of use is the most important thing for people applying makeup. If it could be made more enjoyable and fun as well, then this would be a great bonus”. 5.What stands out the most to you about the ‘Self-Love Eyeshadow palette? “The crystal aspect is such a unique aspect and makes it feel like a fully formed and considered product, I love the idea”.

APPENDIX 6 CONSENT FORMS