Trend Map by Miriam Rodriguez Juarez

TREND MAP TREND MAP TREND MAP TREND MAP TREND MAP

TREND MAP

By Miriam Rodriguez-Juarez N0709570 Word count: 2597

CONTENTS Introduction 1 Methodology 3 Trends and trend forecasting 4 Lifecycle/Types of Trends 8 Role of Social Media 9 Celebrity Influence 11 Sustainability/Ethical Considerations 13 SS17 Trends 19 History of Embroidery 31 Primary Research 38 Styling Photoshoot 45 Blog 50 Conclusion 53 References/Bibliography/Illustrations 56 Ethics Clause 65

INTRODUCTION Fashion map is a consideration of the impact trends have within the fashion industry. This report has a twofold objective, to explore the role of trend forecasting through social media, ethical and sustainable implications and analyses the impact of a specific SS17 (spring/summer) trend within the fashion industry and its place within fashion trend forecasting.

METHODOLOGY There will be a wide range of both primary and secondary research evaluating key themes within the chosen trend. Qualitative primary research was undertaken in the form of questionnaires and a shop safari through Nottingham retailers. The research was strengthened through the use of industry interviews by retailers Next and Topshop, making the findings robust. This can be seen as a key strength of the qualitative research, meaning that the findings were reliable and current to the key trend within this report. As supported by Creswell who points out the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Standard of validity and reliability are important in qualitative researchâ&#x20AC;? (Creswell, 2014). One limitation of this research was that the interviews and shop safari were only conducted in Nottingham, therefore having a limited wider industry and public insight.

TRENDS AND TREND FORECASTING

“A trend can also be described as an ‘anomaly’- an oddity, inconsistency or deviation from the norm, which becomes increasingly prominent over a period as more people, products and ideas become part of that change”. (Raymond, 2010) As Raymond describes, a trend can be emotional, intellectual, and even spiritual, thus connecting and engaging with consumers to a strong degree. Trends can be defined as the direction in which something tends to move and in simple terms it is an inevitable way of life.

Trend forecasting has emerged as an industry in line with mass production and retail development. Since the 1960’s there has been a shift in the dominance of single fashion trends, with the expansion of mass communication and in turn the increasing sophistication of the consumer. (McKelvey & Munslow. 2008) Designers have gained their influences through worldwide travel and cultures, eventually selecting specific and key ideas that they incorporate into their products. Thus resulting with them being seen on the catwalk and eventually trickling down to the high street, by then they have been well and truly immersed in a trend.

The importance of trend forecasting as explained by Raymond is that, “Trend forecasting now underpins all aspects of society where it is important to understand the short, medium and long term impact of new and emerging changes taking place in the culture around us” (Raymond, 2010). This indicates the responsibility that designers have, leading with the pressures of societal global changes. Thorstein Veblen identified the ‘trickling down’ effect, stating that fashion traditionally flows from the ‘upper-class’ of society eventually ‘trickling down’ to the ‘lower-class’. With each class in-between being influenced from the upper. However, it could be argued that this model is inaccurate and dated due to the ‘bubbling-up’ effect. As stated previously, designers retrieve inspiration and ideas through what they see from cultures and their people, art and travel, music and politics.

LIFECYCLE/TYPES of TRENDS There are different types of trends; fads, fashion, and classics. Firstly, with ‘Fads’, these are short lived trends. They have a steady rise, a peak saturation point, and critically, they tend to have a rapid decline, some may reappear seasons or years later. ‘Fashion’ trends have their sales and level of adoption lasting for a longer period, the peak point is steady and has a long selling period. Lastly ‘Classics’, have a steady introduction, and have a high peak during saturation. Typically, these last for one to two years and have the potential to evolve.

“FASHION IS A TREND. STYLE LIVES WITHIN A PERSON” - Oscar de la Renta

Trends traditionally reappear; with James Laver creating the concept of ‘Lavers Law’, an attempt to make sense of the fashion trend lifecycle (Carter, 2003). The intelligence of the law he created, is that it can be applied to nearly all creative mediums — not just fashion but also art, design, architecture, and even music. Within the concept he highlights how trends have a tendency to reappear after so many years of becoming outdated. Eventually coming back in new forms, for example this has been seen during SS17 with the 80’s revival. Thus, comes the obligatory return of the power shoulders that have taken on a modern twist by designers.

“I ALWAYS FIND BEAUTY IN THINGS THAT ARE ODD & IMPERFECT - THEY ARE MUCH MORE INTERESTING” - Marc Jacobs

Each key stage within the progression of a developing trend is vital for its success in retailers. There are key steps and models that help lead and develop a trend to be submerged within mass culture; Knowledge, Persuasion, Decision, Implementation, and Confirmation are all discussed by (Rogers, 1983), as a way of trend forecasting execution.

ROLE OF THE MEDIA Trends are vital to our identities (Corner, 2014): they are a way of expressing and reflecting personal individuality. Consumerism reflects our priorities and values, leading the multitude of trends to be made adaptable for all. Technology has taken on a huge role with trends, online fashion is constantly revolving with capsule wardrobes, collaborations between designers and retailers, pre-collections, and limited editions. Trends are now being further adapted by social media bloggers and influencers; all accessible to consumers by the click of a button. Straight from the runway, garments are being found in consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobes faster than ever before. Burberrys introduction of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;buy-now-wear-nowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; collections means that the public do not have to wait for trends to be designed and created by high-street retailers to enjoy the latest fashion trends.

The role of the media equally has an astronomical influence and detrimental effect on consumer buying decisions. Traditionally newspapers and magazines were the main sources convincing the readers what to eat, what to think, and ultimately what to buy. Consequently, promoting everything as a trend.

However, with a shift in marketing materials, social media is now the foremost, impacting media platform. Simply and even when at home, flicking through your Instagram feed, you are able to access a wide range of trends occurring worldwide. Reality television shows, project specific lifestyles of celebrities and TV personalities, which usually are too difficult to attain and maintain for the viewers. Thus, arises high street, fast fashion retailers to mimic ‘trends’ that are presented by this form of media. Companies, understand that the target market of consumers watching TV programs such as, Keeping Up with The Kardashians and The Only Way is Essex, to name a few, will buy into the ‘trend’s that are being widely and heavily promoted.

CELEBRITY INFLUENCE Celebrities go hand in hand with the media, playing an important role with trends. They are ‘promoters’ and ‘influencers’ of new fashion trends, and market to the 16-25 demographic. Companies have taken the role of ‘brand ambassadors’ to a new level, by having multiple ‘ambassadors’ at once to highlight how trends can be adaptable to a wider consumer. A company that has taken this on board is a British online platform, InTheStyle, - whose demographic are young females, conscious of fashion and how their style represents them. They currently use a variety of different influencers; one for example is Binky Felstead from Made in Chelsea.

RHIANNA

DITA VON TEESE

KIM KARDASHIAN WEST

ASAP ROCKY

GEORGINA CHAPMAN

ALEXANDRA ‘BINKY’ FELSTEAD

SUSTAINABILITY/ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS

Definition of sustainability – “A development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own need” (Faresin, 2017)

Within the UK alone, £44 billion is spent on clothing annually. Consumers are beginning to demand transparency within the textile supply chain as this industry is said to be the second most polluting industry after oil and gas with 80 billion pieces of clothing are churned out every single year. (Zady, 2017)

Retailers have high demands and pressures of keeping ahead of their evolving trends. For example, Zara alone, offers 24 collections per year from their in-house factory and H&M offers 12 to 16 collections. Thus, raises the question of what cost are factory workers (their minimal wages), animals and human rights willing to pay for the advantage and benefits of the consumers to acquire the latest trends. The cycle of fashion trends theorize that it is within our nature and custom to keep renovating the world, but clearly disregarding the sustainability of the process.

RANA PLAZA, 2013

The high demands in fast-fashion to produce garments that follow the latest trends have their severe repercussions. The disastrous collapse of the Rana Plaza garment factory gained global attention back in 2013, with the result of 1,135 people being killed (BBC News, 2013). This is just one example of how the challenging demands of fashion puts a tremendous pressure on factories. The retailer Primark, is known for its short turn-around with appearing new trends, subsequently, having a negative impact and encouraging overconsumption consistently.

However, retailers are adapting and changing their methods. High-fashion designer Stella McCartney classes her business as “A vegetarian company committed to operating a responsible and modern business”, claiming, “We take responsibility for operating a business and maintaining a supply chain that respects the planet as well as the people and animals on it” (McCartney, 2017).

Fast-fashion, high-street retailer H&M have created a concept line called, “Conscious – Sustainable Style”. Their aim is that by 2020, all cotton in range will come from sustainable sources. They also introduced a garment collecting initiative worldwide, where customers can drop their unwanted garments, no matter what brand and what condition and in all H&M stores across the globe. However, these are companies who profit from over consumption so how believable their efforts and attempts are is questionable due to the vicious cycle that is fast-fashion trends (AboutHM.com, 2017).

SS17 TRENDS

Trend analysts gain original inspiration and insight as to what the people are buying and wearing from being outside and exploring. On the catwalks to the city of Nottingham, various trends have stood out that have seen an occurrence and reappeared within fashion trends which are; PVC, colour blocking and statement sleeves, all three key trends this SS17 have made a bold renaissance (Vogue, 2017).

PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC

C.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.PVC.P

PVC dresses have been around since the 60â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, as man-made materials were innovative in this era. The downfall of this trend leading to its original departure in fashion was due to the material being uncomfortable to wear alongside the garments maintenance. Having been presented by designers, Yeezy and Lacoste on catwalks, inevitably it was incorporated by high-street retailers like Topshop.

YEEZY

LACOSTE

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

YEEZY

LACOSTE

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

COLOUR BLOCK.COLOUR BLOCK.COLOUR BLOCK.

.COLOUR BLOCK.COLOUR BLOCK.COLOUR BLOCK

Colour blocking has created an impression of the 80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s within this season. It could be said that the designer JIL Sander has implemented this trend long before resurfacing for the SS17 trends. Bold, bright, daring statement colours can be found worn together. Fuchsia & Yellow are the most frequently selected colours to appear in high-street stores, like Zara and Topshop Unique, used on their hero garments.

JIL SANDER

ZARA

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

JIL SANDER

ZARA

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

STATEMENT SLEEVES.STATEMENT SLEEVES.STATE

EMENT SLEEVES.STATEMENT SLEEVES.STATEMENT

The first iteration of the angel sleeve was very practical, angel sleeves have evolved over time to what is now known as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;statement-sleevesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Still being dramatic and wellconstructed, they are the focus and centre piece of an outfit, along with being easy to wear due to the lightweight materials and extravagant designs. Designers, Marc Jacobs and Brandon Maxwell made sure to display the statement that is a statement sleeve in their catwalk collections.

BRANDON MAXWELL

MARC JACOBS

TOPSHOP

BRANDON MAXWELL

MARC JACOBS

TOPSHOP

HISTORY of EMBROIDERY From both the primary and secondary research into SS17 trends, embroidery was the most prominent, thus becoming this reports main focus.

“Embroidery will generate emotion in the beholder and wearer only when there is coherent synergy between creative refinement” – (Pucci, 2006)

“Through embroidery it encourages self-expression and experimentation which can only lead on to personal discovery of what dress embroidery is and of what it can become” – (Nicholas & Teague, 1975)

Embroidery has been a practice for many centuries. Elaborately embroidered clothing, religious objects, and household items have been a mark of wealth and status in many cultures including ancient Persia, India, China, Japan, and medieval and Baroque Europe. Documents show that embroidery was commissioned for clothing for royalty and the nobility, - having their robes adorned with intricate detailing of beading, lace and embroidery, although very little of this survives. Surface embroidery techniques such as chain stitch and couching or laid-work are the most economical of expensive yarns. Given technical ability, the effects that can be created through embroidery are almost limitless.

Still until this day, wearing a garment that has creative detailing of embroidery is seen to be a statement of wealth and knowledge of fashion. Embroidery not only remains popular within fashion, its origins within the arts and textiles still is heavily prominent.

The 80’s and 90’s were the era’s when ‘patches’ were adorned all over garments as a type of embroidery/embellishment. Multiple fun and creative designs would be used to accessorize mainly denim items. Through time, the idea of embroidery has been toned down, back to its original techniques of chain-stitching and laid-work.

Found in couture, high-end and high-street fashion, many brands adopt the embroidery trend suited to their target consumer. High-end designers who have adapted/incorporated the embroidery floral trend are among the likes of: Chanel, Elie Saab, Schiaparelli, Dior and Alexander McQueen to name a few. Majority of all high street brands have taken this trend on, and has been fully integrated into the mass market. Retailers like Whistles, Topshop, River Island, Oasis (a classic of florals), to Primark have a wide product offering with the floral trend.

At present, the influence of embroidery has taken a turn and focus on florals on denim. Florals are at its peak within the embroidery trend, covering all garments as a cohort. From, denim jeans to dresses to ankle boots, and even chokers bare intricate embroidery floral detailing.

EMBROIDERY IN PRINT

Future of Embroidery Trend The future of the embroidery trend seems to be hopeful. With the use of florals being successfully implemented within the trend, there seems that there is potential for successful continuation, especially during the Spring/Summer seasons.

Primary Research As part of the research conducted into the embroidery trend, a shop safari was undergone to explore and evaluate how the embroidery trend was represented in high-street retailers throughout Nottingham.

SHOP SAFARI

TOPSHOP

All high-street retailers have extremely similar product offering in their stores, which leaves the margin for differencing between the ways each brand has interpreted the trend extremely thin. There seems to be a blur when brands are promoting â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;trendsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as to which store is staying ahead of the game and which is falling behind.

TOPSHOP

SHOP SAFARI

FRENCH CONNECTION

Within Nottingham, embroidery seems to have taken over high-street retailers. River Island, Primark, TopShop, Next, Warehouse, and New Look to name a few all have incorporated this ‘must-have trend’ into their collections and ‘capsule wardrobes’, which has now been saturated mass market. The embroidery trend has been widely accepted, since the technique is flexible, found for all target consumers and can be included in all product categories.

PHASE EIGHT

INTERVIEWS From the interviews held with sales associates from both Topshop and Next. There was a clear differentiation in how the trend was presented. Next interpreted the floral embroidery trend in a sophisticated and classic style, found on garments such as evening blouses for their more affluent consumer. Whereas in Topshop the trend was found in a more relaxed and casual interpretation, suitable to their younger demographic, found mostly on denim shorts and skirts.

COMPANY: TOPSHOP. NAME: EMILY. AGE: 24 POSITION: WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SENIOR SALES ASSOCIATE Question 1: How would you describe the embroidery trend within your store? Florals, denim and white-shirts. Question 2: Do the garments of embroidery gain much interest from consumers? Yes, as soon as the items are out of stock, we always receieve many requests.

Question 3: What would you say is the key hero piece of embroidery in store? We had a prestine white-blouse in with floral embroidery on the back, and it was a sell out. It was part of the marketing campaign for Topshop. Question 4: Has the embroidery trend been more successful within a specific product category in store? Our 05 denim skirts and shorts are always popular each Spring/Summer. Though, now with embroidery on them, they are definitely the hero pieces. Question 5: How do you think the people of Nottingham are reacting to the embroidery trend? I feel that girls/women in Nottingham play it safe when it comes to fashion. They will wear a basic embroidery shirt or top, but will wear it with basic denim jeans.

COMPANY: NEXT. NAME: NICOLA. AGE: 28 POSITION: WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FLOOR MANAGER Question 1: How would you describe the embroidery trend within your store? Florals, intricate design and chic. Question 2: Do the garments of embroidery gain much interest from consumers? They do especially with the younger demographic, who arent usually our customer.

Question 3: What would you say is the key hero piece of embroidery in store? All items of embroidery sell at a steady pace, however the evening shirts are always on request and we have women shop them through our directory. Question 4: Has the embroidery trend been more successful within a specific product category in store? Definitely the evening shirts, as our customers like dress classic and elegant, especially for a night out.

Question 5: How do you think the people of Nottingham are reacting to the embroidery trend? At first our consumers were slightly wary of the embroidery trend, I think now in Nottingham everyone is used to it, but I do not see women/girls wearing it as much as I would have thought.

Styling Photoshoot

‘At One with Nature’ The theme and concept of the styled photoshoot incorporated the embroidery trend which was named, ‘At One with Nature’. Choosing the location was crucial as it affected the ambiance and mood that was intended for the shoot.

Selecting ‘The Nottingham Arboretum’, meant that a natural, ethereal feeling was resonated in the images taken. It also had the advantage of capturing a variety of flowers in bloom that highlighted pops of colours, complementing the chosen garments. Being considered in where images were taken, carefully selecting colouring compositions, positioning of model, and items of clothing, all helped to achieve the desired theme.

When it comes to embroidery, florals are the protagonist motif that occurs. Taking inspiration and ideas from the beautiful gardens and nature around, the model(s) throughout the story of the photoshoot became at one with their surroundings. Embracing peace and tranquillity complimented the garments of choice.

The style of the photoshoot, could potentially be marketed to a demographic who value sustainability when purchasing clothing. The idea of being â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;At One with Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and caring for the environment is growing influence within the fashion industry. Understanding where garments come from and how they were sourced, is becoming increasingly important to consumers.

Items of clothing used: Jumper:New Look. Pink blouse:Primark. Bodysuit:New Look.

The Nottingham Arboretum

BLOG

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;At One with Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 5th May 2017

On such a beautiful sunny day in England a stroll to The Nottingham Arboretum (my favourite park), was much needed. I love flowers and their specific colours and patterns that each individual one has. Taking photos of them for my Instagram happens on a regular basis (I admit it; it is getting slightly out of control!)

Now that it is summer (well, having one day of sunshine counts, ok!), means that it is time for... florals. The chosen embroidery garments covered in florals that I decided to style , are easy and light weight (because it was warm). The cute little tie up shirt, from Matalan is simple to dress up with a pair of deep blue denim skinnies and heels. On the other hand, pair with some mom jeans and summer sandals like I have done and you are ready for a stroll through the park on your way to see your friends.

The rose silk shirt/dress from Primark is such an easy throw on item, (long enough to be worn by itself ladies!). I love how it is plain and simple on the front, then you have intricate floral detailing on the back. And what is a summers day without a floral embroidery kimono, Topshop always know how to serve â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;summer realnessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; girls. By, Miriam Rodriguez-Juarez @ wordpress Labels: editorial, fashion, fashion photography, nottingham, photography, florals, embroidery

CONCLUSION For fashion retailing to continue its success, trends must exist for the functioning of its process. With the powerful platform that is social media, the coverage and success of trends now mean that there is freedom for individuals to create their own ‘trends’. Fast fashion retailers are at the beginning in realising the importance of developing sustainable and ethical fashion, understanding the high-demand of apparel that is consumed each year, brings drastic attention to the future of trends. When questioned what a trend is, change is occurring, due to the influences mentioned. We are at a point in fashion, where a shift in what originally was ‘tradition’ is no longer the rule, which is the beauty that is fashion.

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TREND MAP

REFERENCES

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

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Rodriguez-Juarez, M. Topshop store, Nottingham. Taken on 10/05/17

Rodriguez-Juarez, M. Next store, Nottingham. Taken on 10/05/17

Rodriguez-Juarez, M. John Lewis store, Nottingham. Taken on 10/05/17

Rodriguez-Juarez, M. The Arboretum, Nottingham. Taken on 14/05/17

Rodriguez-Juarez, M. The Arboretum, Nottingham. Taken on 14/05/17 Rodriguez-Juarez, M. The Arboretum, Nottingham. Taken on 14/05/17

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