2012
PARIS City Guide
–2–
PARIS VOLUME DEUX
04
30
CENTRAL PARIS
MONTMARTRE
1er & 2ème
9ème & 18ème
10
38
LE MARAIS
PARIS NORD
3ème & 4ème
10ème, 19ème & 20ème
24 THE LITERARY TRAIL 29 FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE 35 AU CŒUR DU PAIN 51 GRAVEYARD STOMP
18
46
RIVE GAUCHE
BASTILLE
5ème, 6ème & 7ème
11ème & 12ème
26
52
CHAMPS-ELYSÉES
THE OUTER EDGE
8ème & 16ème
La Périphérie
During fashion week, LES TUILERIES becomes an outdoor catwalk.
1er & 2e
CENTRAL PARIS
05
CENTRAL PARIS (1er & 2e) 18 17
19 9
10
8 2
3
1 16
7
20 11
4 6
5
15
12 14
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A mix of high-end consumerism and culture, the centre of Paris is where to get your fix of French fashion amidst some of the most impressive monuments in the city. Empty your pockets in Saint Honoré and fill your stomach in Etienne Marcel. MÉTRO: Les Halles, Étienne Marcel, Louvre Rivoli, Palais Royal Musée du Louvre, Tuileries, Concorde, Montorgueil, Bourse
Don’t miss PONT DES ARTS // This pedestrian
JEU DE PAUME // France’s national
bridge is curiously covered in love locks and ribbons. If you feel like Paris has lost some of its romance, return here and sit
centre of photography. 1 place de la Concorde, 8éme LA LOUVRE //
Place du Carrousel, 1er eyed tourists. L’ORANGERIE // Featuring Monet’s LES TUILERIES // Promenade with
LISTEN TO: Paris (Aeroplane Remix) Friendly Fires I Love Paris Dean Martin Sunday Mondays Vanessa Paradis Où Est Ma Tête? Pink Martini Télégraphe La Femme
the fashionistas in the formal gardens.
Nyphéas series. One of my favourite major galleries in Paris. Jardin de Tuileries, 1er
OPÉRA GARNIER // Home to the
MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS //
Paris Ballet and a beautiful, opulent monument. Place de l’Opéra, 9éme
Recently renovated and a must for fashion lovers. 107 rue de Rivoli, 1er
06
CENTRAL PARIS
CENTRAL PARIS (1er & 2e) THE RITZ // You never know
PALAIS-ROYAL //
when you might be nibbling a croissant next to Anna Wintour.
15 place Vendôme, 1er
former palace is now a home to fashion royalty such as Pierre Hardy, Acne, Stella McCartney and Marc Jacobs, all set amongst dreamy landscaped surrounds.
PASSAGE DU GRAND SERF //
RUE ST HONORÉ //
We stumbled across this
worthy shops, including a certain Monsieur Louboutin. Lick the windows, as they say in French.
dates back to the early 19th between rue Montorgueil arrondissement. If you’re walking along the rue Montorgueil, north of rue Etienne Marcel, explore
WWW Not sure where to eat? lefooding.com has reviews of Paris restaurants and cafés. Also check out David Leibowitz’s Paris favourites and city guides.
for more cute cafés & shops, and at the end of rue Marie Stuart usually very quiet but it’s worth exploring the small boutiques, designer ateliers and very small, sweet cafés. I recall a store selling old woodblock letters. Fantastic!
SAINT-EUSTACHE CATHEDRAL //
This massive church is one of the best standing examples of the early Gothic style.
1er & 2e
CENTRAL PARIS
07
RUE MONTORGUEIL // This bustling
street just north of Les Halles is an outstanding place to grab some fresh groceries or a tasty treat. Rue Montorgueil was one of our regular where we would pick up delicious baguettes traditionelles, hot poulet rôti, or fresh produce. At the southern end of rue Montorgueil
day! On Thursdays, the nearby rue Montmartre holds a small street market with paella, cheese, olive and seafood stands. Le fooding and le drinking
FRENCHIE BAR À VINS // Libby,
LE CAFÉ //
LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN // Yes, it’s
Mel, Pep & I crammed in for a
hip spot. On one side you have American Vintage, on the other is vintage mecca, Kiliwatch. 62 rue Tiquetonne, 2ème
a chain, but it’s so delicious. Although famous for its breakfast specialty of breads and spreads, it was their lunchtime salad and soups I was hooked on. Cnr rue des Petits Carreaux & rue
bar à vins opposite the very busy restaurant of the same name. You don’t need to book but you might need to queue. Completely worth it. 6 rue du Nil, 2ème
... RICE & BEANS // The only place
of California. Burritos and tacos SPRING // Recommended by
22 rue Greneta, 2ème
an American couple we met in Frenchie, this place is booked out months in advance. The chef, who
SILENCIO // Stalk the artistic elite
free fare on request. 6 rue Bailleul, 1er
... LA MAISON STOHRER // One of
...
142 rue Montmartre, 2ème
the oldest and most prestigious of Paris’ pastry shops. The chocolate éclairs are incredible. 51 rue Montorgueil, 2ème
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CENTRAL PARIS
CENTRAL PARIS (1er & 2e)
The best ballerines in the world REPETTO //
Ms Moss and moi
While the dollar is strong, you really ought to shop
E. DEHILLERIN // E. Dehillerin
COLETTE // You know you have to.
is considered to be the hippest store in all of Europe. square tart cases, madeleine trays 18 rue Coquillière, 1er The fringe. So chic, yet so disasterous to grow out. Paris’ fashionistas have come up with a solution. Le Comptoir des Franges Didact will make you a clip-in fringe wig, cut and coloured to your specifications. 2 rue du Jour
... RUE MONTMARTRE, RUE DU JOUR //
... HERMÈS // Quite simply, a must.
1er KILIWATCH // They have an
awesome vintage section as well as a great book collection in this huge store. 64 rue Tiquetonne, 2ème
These streets are lined with boutiques, including lingerie Parisienne favourites Antoine & Lili, Maje, ba&sh, Zadig et Voltaire, Les Petites and Agnès B. CHANEL // Don’t forget to visit
31 rue Cambon, 1er
09
1er & 2e
ADDRESS BOOK À la mère de famille SWEETS SHOP 35 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9e
Colette FASHION FOOD 213 rue St-Honoré, 1er
Marc Jacobs FASHION 34 rue de Montpensier, 1er
Acne FASHION 124 galerie de Valois, 1er
CoSTUME NATIONAL 5 rue Cambon, 1er
Maje FASHION 267 rue St-Honoré, 1er
Aesop BEAUTY 256 rue St-Honoré, 1er
Culture of Color NAIL BAR 1 rue de Turbigo (angle rue Montorgueil), 1er
American Vintage FASHION 62 rue Tiquetonne, 2e
FASHION
Dior FASHION 30 avenue Montaigne, 8é
APC FASHION 23 rue Royal, 8e
Fauchon TEA+DELI+PATISSERIE 26 place de la Madeleine, 8é
Apple Store GADGETS 99 rue de Rivoli, 1er
Goyard LEATHER GOODS 233 rue St-Honoré, 1er
agnès b FASHION 6 rue du Jour, 1er
Hermès FASHION 24 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 1er
American Apparel FASHION 29-31 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1er
Jérôme Dreyfuss HANDBAGS+FASHION 127 galerie de Valois, 1er
ba&sh FASHION 10 rue du Jour, 1er
Kiliwatch VINTAGE+BOOKS 64 rue Tiquetonne, 2e
Blend Hamburger Gourmet 44 rue d’Argout, 2e
FOOD
Kitsuné MENS 52 rue de Richelieu, 1er
CDG Parfums PERFUME 23 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1er
Ladurée MACARONS+TOURISTS 16 rue Royale, 8e
Chanel FASHION 31 rue Cambon, 1er
Lafayette Gourmet FOOD HALL HEAVEN 40 bvd Haussmann, 9e
Comme des Garcons FASHION 54 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e
Le Mont Saint Michel 29 rue du Jour, 1er
Chantal Thomas LINGERIE 211 rue St-Honoré, 1er Christian Louboutin SHOES 68 rue St-Honoré, 8e
MENS
Les Petites FASHION 3 rue du Montmartre, 1er Marc by Marc Jacobs FASHION+FUN 19 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1er
Miu Miu FASHION+ACCESSORIES 219 rue St-Honoré 1er Pierre Hardy SHOES 156 galerie de Valois, 1er Princesse Tam-Tam LINGERIE 5 rue du Montmartre, 1er Repetto SHOES 22 rue de la Paix, 2e Rick Owens FASHION 130 galerie de Valois, 1er Saint James FASHION 5 rue Tronchet, 8é Sandro FASHION 30 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1er Silencio DAVID LYNCH’S LUB 142 rue Montmartre, 2e Stella McCartney FASHION 114-121 galerie de Valois, 1er Vanessa Bruno FASHION 12 rue Castiglione, 1er WHSmith BOOKS 248 rue de Rivoli, 1er Uniqlo FASHION 17 rue Scribe, 9e Zadig et Voltaire FASHION 9 rue Montmartre, 1er
Come to shop, stay to drink tea at MERCI.
3e & 4e
LE MARAIS
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LE MARAIS (3e & 4e) 18 17
19 9
10
8 2
3
1 16
7
20 11
4 6
5
15
12 14
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From swamp, to home of Royalty, to a Jewish ghetto. Now the Marais has shaped itself into a glamourous hub for the city’s gay and fabulous. Find the best felafel, art galleries and edgy fashion as well as a thriving bar scene. On Sundays when the rest of the city shuts down, the Marais still teems with life.
Don’t miss POMPIDOU CENTRE // The
PLACE DES VOSGES // Prime MÉTRO: Rambuteau, Chemis Vert, St Paul, Bastille
particuliers have been converted into apartment buildings.
picnic spot. ILE ST. LOUIS // Sit on the
southern most tip on the river. It’s the last place to catch the sun. LISTEN TO: Voila Francoise Hardy April in Paris Count Basie Ma Douce Barcella Dis Moi BB Brunes Paris Camille
your only chances to take in the grandeur of the rooms
MAISON EUROPÉENNE DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE // Outstanding
contemporary photography gallery.
MUSÉE PICASSO // A beautiful
museum not just for the artwork, but the building itself is a good example of an historic Maison Particulier. It will be one of
MUSÉE CARNAVALET // The
history of Paris museum. Free. 23 rue Sévigné, 3ème
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LE MARAIS
LE MARAIS (3ème & 4ème)
POZETTO // So many mentions for
COMME A LISBONNE // This little
this gelato shop. Said to be the best in the city. 39 rue du roi de Sicile, 4ème
hole in the wall dispenses warm, fresh Portugese custard tarts sprinkled with cinnamon and great espresso. 37 rue du roi de Sicile, 4ème
... GRAND APPETIT // Organic store
and vegan restaurant featuring
... FLORENCE FINKELZTAJN // The
only place I spotted raw vegan desserts. 9 rue de la Cerisaie, 4ème LES TEMPS DE CERISES // A tiny
bit of a hipster vibe. Very much the Marais. Go for lunch. 31 rue de la Cerisaie, 4ème
area around rue des Rosiers and
Yiddish. This Kosher boulangerie does a fantastic takeaway lunch, and their desserts are a nice change from all the usual French fare. There’ll most likely be a stupidly long line. Go early, or take a book Cnr rue des Rosiers & rue des
CHEZ OMAR // This restaurant is
written up in all the guidebooks for good reason: the décor is beautiful, the atmosphere is lively
47 rue de Bretagne
is the place I think of most when I reminisce about our days in Paris. They are très populaire, très delicieux, très authentique. Expect a long lunchtime queue. 34 rue des Rosiers, 4ème
LA CANTINE MERCI // Adjoining
RESTAURANT GEORGES // Not
the wonderful fashion and lifestyle concept store, Merci,
much is cheap in Paris, and this is no exception. But the views are fantastic and you’ll probably
portions of Moroccan tagines
Frozen ready meals in France are not like ours. Browse the aisles at any branch of Picard and you’ll see cassoulet, escargot and perfect petitfours... all of exceptional quality. No French dinner party is complete without a plate of reheated puff pastry from Picard.
L’AS DU FELLAFEL // Another
inspired café serving daily lunch Reliably good.
the gallery. Level 6, Pompidou Centre, 3ème
3e & 4e
LE MARAIS
13
BREIZH CAFÉ // Buckwheat crepes, as recommended by Garance Doré. The restaurant is busy, but you can also get take away from
BOB’S KITCHEN // Probably my
POILÂNE CUISINE DE BAR // The
favourite lunch spot in the city. Serves vegetarian soup, salads and sushi in a small dining room.
famous bakery’s second Parisian outpost.
their sweet crepes on regular
...
be sure to ask for buckwheat. 111 rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème
ginger and cardamom tea to warm you up on a cold day. Get there early to avoid missing out. 74 rue des Gravilliers, 3ème
...
...
PLAN B // Very cute little deli
MARCHÉ DES ENFANTS ROUGES //
shop thing. Incredible vegetarian quiches. I tried a blue cheese, walnut & cranberry variety. Yum.
This small covered market is Paris’ oldest. Pick up some fresh fruit, or if you’re hungry, try one of the Italian, Japanese, or other delcious traiteurs in the back. 39 rue de Bretagne, 3ème
ROSE BAKERY //
PAIN DE SUCRE // It was so
the array of cakes, pastries and savoury breads. Everything looks so good! 14 rue Rambuteau, 3ème MOB // This is the place to enjoy
a French take on vegan burgers, of cookies and cakes.
Rose Bakery has opened a second establishment in the Marais Nord. You can’t get a better breakfast.
L’ESTAMINET // One of the better
cafés inside this lovely marché. It gets extremely busy on weekends. If you’re just passing through, stop in and grab an expresso à emporter and be sure to visit the small stall selling vintage photographs. Bretagne, 3ème GLOU // Highly recommended
cave à manger favoured by locals and tourists in the know. Delicious seasonal menu. 101 rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème
For a French take on Japanese food... NANASHI // Wonderful airy restaurant that serves a quirky take on
Japanese bentos. Mixing seaweed, lentils and tofu with the obligatory side of sliced baguette and a glass of vin blanc. Actually very tasty!
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LE MARAIS
LE MARAIS (3e & 4e)
The best neighbourhood to... get lost MARAIS NORD // You can’t take a wrong turn in the Marais Nord
café or gallery worth stopping into. It’s the bobo capital of the city. Wander north of rue de Bretagne and through Square du Temple. Grab towards bvd du Temple. The northern ends of rue Charlot, rue de Turenne and rue Saintonge have a lot of great shops and cafés. Stop in
Nespressoobsession For a city with such an intense café culture, Parisians can’t actually brew a decent coffee. If you do drink coffee out, drink espressos. The closest thing to a latte is un cafe creme but it tastes horrible. Just have espresso. If you get a good one it’ll taste fine. A cube of sugar might improve it. Even the Frenchies recognise the severity of the situation, so most homes feature a shiny Nespresso machine. The country is obsessed. Indeed, if you catch a taxi from Charles de Gaulle, it will be the huge smiling face of George Clooney that welcomes you to Paris on a gigantic billboard for Nespresso.
The best neighbourhood to... act like a local MARAIS SUD-EST // The ‘Lower East Side’ of the Marais feels like an
area people live, not just visit. See the children exiting school on rue
until you reach rue de la Cerisaie. Le Temps de Cerises is a lovely, tiny bistro at #31, and Grand Appetit is an organic food store and restaurant serving vegan dishes at #9. Grab a snack and sit on the Bastille canal.
3e & 4e
MERCI // Concept store
LE MARAIS
MARIAGE FRÈRES // Very famous
tea shop that people come from miles around to visit. Try them all more accessible brands, alongside homewares, furniture, books and knick knacks. Really, really good.
buy online when you returm home.
... ...
RUE DES ROSIERS // There ae a
SILOHA // Recommended by
couple of cute vintage shops along rue des Rosiers. 3 rue des Rosiers, 4ème
Kara. Tiny jewellery shop with gorgeous, delicate chains and rings. I want it all. 72 rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème SURFACE TO AIR // French brand
that has an ultra cool vibe. A recent campaign featured Kim Gordon of Sonic Youth. 108 rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème
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IRO //
tipped designers Laurent and Arik Bitton for stardom with what they call ‘basic deluxe’: skinny knits, skinny jeans, babydoll dresses and the ‘perfecto’ mini leather jacket. With a background in music, the brothers know how to hit just the right note between trendy and fashion victim. 53 rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème
THE RED WHEELBARROW // A
Canadian woman owns this cute English bookstore. I would go in search of a new book and to community. 22 rue St Paul, 4ème
... FREE “P” STAR // One of the best
came so close to buying a vintage quilted Chanel handbag! Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4ème
APC // Supercool French label
includes such style heavyweights as Alexa Chung, Michelle Williams and Kate Bosworth. There are many more locations, but best be sure you haven’t missed a trick by visiting them all. 112 rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème SANDRO // The camp and helpful
receive more pieces here than basics along with trendy cocktail dresses and accessories. 50 rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème
EASTERN MARAIS // The best
spots for shopping in the Marais are here on the eastern edge of the Marais. These streets
IMAGES & PORTRAITS // Delve
tiny boutiques selling fashion, homewares, beauty products & more. Travel further west towards the Pompidou and you enter the Marais gaybourhood. Also good if shopping for homewares! rue Vieille du Temple, rue des Francs Bourgeois, rue de Turenne, rue des Tournelles
3ème
through a vast array of old photos and postcards for sale at this unique store located inside the Marché des Enfants Rouge.
OFR // Book store specialising in
art, fashion and design. There’s also a gallery space and tea and cake on Sundays.
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LE MARAIS
LE MARAIS (3e & 4e)
1001 Arabian nights ANDY WAHLOO // Kitch, Moroccan décor. Choose between cocktails or
69 rue Gravilliers, 3ème
drink up
Pack a piece of Paris Edible mementos are the best kind, so bring an extra carry-on to stow them safely away (that’s if they make it on board before being scoffed!). Chefs like David Chang hoard BORDIER BUTTER, made with seasoning like smoked salt (available at Breizh Café). JACQUES GENIN’S caramels are so buttery that they have a short shelf life. Worth their weight in gold – which is about how they’re priced.
CANDELARIA // Bar with cocktails
LE PROGRÉS // Always crowded.
and Mexican specialties. Wander to the back and discover a tequila emporium! 52 rue Saintonge, 3ème
Stop in for happy hour and watch the beautiful people. Cnr rue de Bretagne & rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème
...
...
AU PETIT FER À CHEVAL // A petit
L’ART BRUT // Libby’s favourite bar
café on the r. Vieille du Temple
in Paris. Open until 2am. A place to meet and make new friends. 78 rue Quincampoix, 3ème
toilette. Go & chill out with a for a café au bar. 30 rue Vieille du Temple, 4ème LE CONNETABLE // Another Libby
favourite. Ramshackle and rickety. Delightful.
LA PERLE // Where John Galliano
A pumping happy hour location. Revellers spill out onto the streets causing havoc for motorists! 78 rue Vieille du Temple, 3ème
3e & 4e
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LE MARAIS
ADDRESS BOOK Acne FASHION 3 rue Froissart, 3e
Diptyque CANDLES+PERFUME 8 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4e
Merci FASHION 111 bvd Beaumarchais, 3e
Adidas Originals SPORTSWEAR 3 rue des Rosiers, 4e
Farida FASHION 61 rue Charlot, 3e
Metal Pointus JEWELLERY 19 rue des Francs Bourgeouis, 4e
Aesop BEAUTY 64 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e
Finger in the Nose CHILDRENS 60 rue de Saintonge, 3e
Muji STATIONERY+RAINCOATS 47 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4e
Agora Presse NEWSAGENCY rue des Archives, 3e
Free ‘P’ Star VINTAGE 61 rue de la Verrerie, 4e
Mykita EYEWEAR 2 rue du Pas de la Mule, 3e
American Apparel FASHION 123 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e
Grand Appetit VEGAN/ORGANIC 9 rue de la Cerisaie, 4e
Pain de Sucre PATISSERIE 14 rue Rambuteau, 3e
American Vintage FASHION 113 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e
Hotel Bourg Tibourg SLEEP 19 rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4e
Pink Flamingo SHOES rue Vieille du Temple, 3e
APC FASHION 112 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e
Images & Portraits VINTAGE PHOTOS Cnr rue Charlot & rue de Bretagne, 3e (inside Marché des Enfants Rouges)
Poilaîne BOULANGERIE 38 rue Debelleyme, 3e
Les Archives De La Presse 15 rue des Archives, 4e
MAGAZINES
Iro FASHION 53 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e
Atelier Marais YOGA 54 rue Charlot, 3e
Isabel Marant FASHION 47 rue de Saintonge, 3e
Au Petit Bonheur La Chance 13 rue Saint-Paul, 4e
HOME
Bagel Tom BAGELS 12 Rue Volta, Paris, 3e
Jacques Génin CARAMELS 133 rue de Turenne, 3e
BHV DEPARTMENT STORE 36 Rue de la Verrerie, 4e Breakfast in America 4 rue Mahler, 4e
The Loft by Design FASHION 12 rue de Sévigné, 4e
BRUNCH
Lomography Store PHOTOGRAPHY 17 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4e
Bubble-T BUBBLE TEA 12 rue Quincampoix, 3e Centre de Yoga de Marais 72 Rue du Vertbois, 3e Cos FASHION 4 rue des Rosiers, 3e
K. St-Jaques SANDALS 16 rue Pavee, 4e
YOGA
Maje FASHION 49 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e Mariage Frères TEA EMPORIUM 32 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 4e
Popelini CREAM PUFFS 29 rue Debelleyme, 3e The Red Wheelbarrow 22 rue Saint-Paul, 4e
BOOKS
Sandro FASHION 50 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e Shine FASHION 15 rue Poitou, 3e Siloha JEWELLERY 72 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e Surface to Air FASHION 108 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e Repetto FASHION rue Vieille du Temple, 3e Vanessa Bruno FASHION 100 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e Yoga Concept YOGA WEAR 123 rue de Turenne, 3e
Discover the extraordinary world of taxidermy at DEYROLLE.
5e, 6e & 7e
RIVE GAUCHE
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RIVE GAUCHE (5e, 6e & 7e) 18 17
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The Latin Quarter is so-called because back in the day students at the Sorbonne spoke in Latin to one another. The area is still favoured by artists and students but can feel overrun with tourists at times. Head north to escape the crowds and marvel at the splendour of the buildings and parks. MÉTRO: Odéon, Mabillon, St Germain de Prés, Sèvres Babylone, Rennes, St Placide
LISTEN TO: Left Bank Air Paris St. Germaine The Pogues We’re All in the Dance Feist Les Promesses Autour De Lucie La Ritournelle Sébastien Tellier
Don’t miss JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG // No
FONDATION CARTIER // An
visit to the left bank is complete dreamy garden. 261 bvd Raspail, 14ème MUSÉE DU QUAI BRANLY //
MUSÉE D’ORSAY // You’re spoiled
Dip into ethnic arts with this
for choice for artworks to see here. So much so that the huge collection housed in a former train station can be somewhat unweildy. It’s worth it, but ensure you arrive early to miss the masses.
pieces from Africa, Oceania, Asia and the Americas. The building, designed by Jean Nouvel, landscaped gardens and an exciting addition to the city’s trad museum scene.
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RIVE GAUCHE
RIVE GAUCHE (5e, 6e & 7e)
In search of a decent coffee... COUTUME // If you’re on the left bank and craving a proper latte
And now for something completely different
DEYROLLE // Go upstairs and
LA PAGODE // Independent cinema
of taxidermy. Almost as good as a
with a lovely bamboo garden where you can meet friends for a drink before the movie.
46 rue du Bac, 7ème
The future of the left At the time of writing, the Seine’s southern river-bank was undergoing some exciting renovations. Cité de la Mode et du Design was unveiled (34 quai d’Austerlitz) amongst others.
...
...
LE BATOFAR // A boat on
SERGE GAINSBOURG’S HOUSE //
deckchairs and an aquarium. If it wasn’t French it wouldn’t work. Port de la Gare, 13ème
The walls of this maison, where Serge lived once with Jane and 5 rue de Verneuil, 7ème
PISCINE JOSEPHINE BAKER //
JARDIN DES PLANTES // Visit
Swim on
the ostriches, Mongolian wild horses and red pandas occupying
barge moored on the Seine. 8 Quai François Mauriac, 13ème
delight!
5e, 6e & 7e
RIVE GAUCHE
The sweet spots
Add more gluttony
LADURÉE // My favourite place
posh: put a frock on a go for afternoon tea. 21 rue Bonaparte, 6ème
BREAD AND ROSES // One of the
few boulangers in Paris to still make brioche the traditional way.
21
L’AVANT COMPTOIR // Crêperie
the back. Some say it’s the best galette in Paris.
7 rue de Fleurus, 6ème
...
...
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PIERRE HERMÉ // Vying for the
CHRISTIAN CONSTANT // The
best macaron in Paris. The texture of Pierre Hermé’s sugary creations is softer than the usual
LA COMPAGNIE DES VINS SURNATUREL // There may be
37 rue d’Assas, 6ème Paris, but none are quite so fun. 7 rue Lobineau, 6èmeme
combinations. 72 rue Bonaparte, 6ème
AGAPÉ SUBSTANCE // Sample
L’ARTISAN DE SAVEURS // Serious
chef David Toutain’s exceptional cuisine at this gourmet hotspot.
tea, serious desserts. Known for 66 rue Mazarine, 6ème sprinkled cake triangles with a luscious slathering of lemon cream in between.
POILÂNE // Although famous for
GERMAIN // A project from the
their round loaves of sourdough, the tarte aux pommes are their true calling card.
über cool Costes family, the
SADAHARU AOKI //
Japanese fusion treats: macha eclairs, black sesame macarons 35 rue de Vaugirard, 6ème
food draws from childhood PATISSERIE DES RÊVES // A
25 rue Buci, 6ème
magical array of beautifully crafted cakes and pastries. 93 rue du Bac, 7ème
THOUMIEUX // Downstairs is
a delicious bistro, upstairs is
LA BONBONNIÈRE DE BUCI // This LA GRANDE ÉPICERIE // Food
the best palmiers in Paris, and I’m a big fan of palmiers. 12 rue de Buci, 6ème
emporium heaven. Stop reading and go. NOW. 38 rue de Sévres, 7ème
BARTHÉLÉMY // Fromagerie from
heaven. The shop is stacked to the gills with cheese. 51 rue de Grenelle, 7ème
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RIVE GAUCHE
RIVE GAUCHE (5e, 6e & 7e)
La penseur MUSÉE RODIN // The Musée Rodin is not really a secret, but it is often
overlooked in favour of the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay, and missing it would be a shame. Tucked away in an unassuming back street near the sweeping Hotel Invalides, the museum holds a small but impressive Enclosed by the walls of the museum grounds it is easy to forget that you are in central Paris as you wander through the huge garden dotted with rose bushes and crumbling old sculptures. Take a book and a screeching horns and hordes of tourists melt away for while. 79 rue de Varenne, 7ème Left bank shopping
Picnic under the Eiffel Tower You may have been there, done that and bought the keyring on your first trip, but visiting Paris without glimpsing La Tour is unthinkable. If the weather is warm, head for the grassy area with bread, pâté and lashings of wine for an impromptu picnic – best just as the sun goes down when 20,000 bulbs flash on the tower for ten minutes every hour for shimmery effect.
BONPOINT // You don’t need
CIRE TRUDON // Exquisite
to have children to appreciate kidswear brand. Peek around the
Parisian candles once favoured by Louis XIV. 78 rue de Seine, 6ème
6 rue de Tournon, 6ème
... LA MAISON RUSTIQUE //
... 7L // Karl Lagerfeld’s very own
publishing house. 7 rue de Lille, 6ème
Specialising in gardening books but also with selections in cookery & interior design. 26 rue Jacob, 6ème
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ADDRESS BOOK 7L BOOKS 7 rue de Lille, 7e
Don Carlos MEXICAN BAR 66 rue Mazarine, 6e
Les Deux Magots CAFE 6 place St Germain, 6e
Aesop BEAUTY 20 rue Bonaparte, 6e
Dries Van Noten FASHION 7 quai Malaquais, 6e
Maison Fabre GLOVES 60 rue des Saints Pères, 7e
Agapé Substance RESTAURANT 66 rue Mazarine, 6e
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
Maison Martin Margiela FASHION 13 rue de Grenelle, 7e
PERFUME
37 rue de Grenelle, 6e A.P.C. FASHION 38 rue Madame, 6e
Erès LINGERIE SWIMWEAR 4 rue du Cherche Midi, 6e
Arty Dandy KNICK KNACKS 1 rue de Furstemberg, 6e Fromagerie Barthélémy 51 rue de Grenelle, 7e
CHEESE
Bonpoint KIDS FASHION CAFÉ TERRACE 6 rue de Tournon, 6e Bread & Roses CAFE 7 rue de Fleurus 6e Café de Flore CAFE 172 bvd St-Germain, 6e Carven FASHION 32-34 rue Saint Sulpice, 6e Cire Trudon CANDLES 78 rue de Seine, 6e Cuisine de Bar BREAKFAST 8 rue Cherche-Midi, 6e
Finger in the Nose KIDS FASHION 11 rue de l’Echaudé, 6e Fondation Cartier ART PARKS 261 bvd Raspail, 14e Germain RESTAURANT 25 rue Buci, 6e Gibert Joseph Disquare VINYL 34 bvd Saint-Michel, 6e Jérôme Dreyfuss 4 rue Jacob, 6e
HANDBAGS
Le Batofar BAR Port de la Gare, 13e Le Bon Marché DEPARTMENT STORE 24 rue de Sèvres, 7e La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels
Musée Rodin ART PARKS 79 rue de Varenne, 7e Nanashi Tournon 6 rue Tournon, 6e
JAPANESE VEGETARIAN
Patisserie des Réves CAKES PASTRIES 93 rue du Bac, 7e Pierre Hermé MACARONS 72 rue Bonaparte, 6e Poilâne BREAD 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 6e Ralph’s FASHION BRUNCH 173 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 6e Sadaharu Aoki CAKES PASTRIES 35 rue de Vaugirard, 6e Shakespeare & Co BOOKS 37 rue de la Bûcherie, 5e Sonia Rykiel FASHION 175 bvd St-Germain, 6e
WINE BAR
Coutume CAFE 47 rue de Babylone, 7e Da Rosa RESTAURANT 62 rue de Seine, 6e Deyrolle TAXIDERMY 46 rue du Bac, 7e Diptyque CANDLES 34 bvd Saint Germain, 5e
7 rue Lobineau, 6e La Hune BOOKS 18 rue de l’Abbaye, 6e La Pagode INDEPENDENT CINEMA 57 rue de Babylone, 7e Ladurée Bonaparte MACARONS TEA 21 rue Bonaparte, 6e
Storie KNICK KNACKS 20 rue Delambre, 14e Thoumieux RESTAURANT 79 rue St-Dominique, 7e Yves Saint Laurent FASHION 6 place St Sulpice, 6e Zadig & Voltaire FASHION 3 rue du Vieux Colombier, 6e
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THE LITERARY TRAIL MAKE LIKE A STRUGGLING WRITER AND VISIT SOME OF THE OLD HAUNTS OF OSCAR WILDE, ET AL.
SURELY NO SPOT ON THE PLANET HAS AS MANY LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS IN SO SMALL AN AREA AS ST-GERMAINDES-PRÉS?
LES DEUX MAGOTS The myth of the struggling writer in a garret might have died now that Louis Vuitton is next to Les Deux Magots, but the ghosts are still there. Though suffused with tourists, Les Deux Magots (Sartre and de Beauvoir’s favourite hangout) is still an essential stop-off, if only to see the walls lined with photos of Hemingway and the surrealists. It’s a bit overpriced (we know – we ate one tiny salad there) but I hear the desserts are great and reasonably priced. Tip: the locals sit in the salon upstairs. 6 place St-Germain-des-Prés, 6ème
LES EDITEURS Les Editeurs is a café where you might meet a living writer: it’s packed with editors marking proofs, runs its own literary prize and has an extensive library. 4 carrefour de l’Odeon, 6ème ...
LE PRÉ-AUX-CLERCS For something a tad more authentic head to Le Pré-aux-Clercs. Hemingway’s favourite restaurant is still an unpretentious art deco café where locals prop up the bar. 30 rue Bonaparte, 6ème
CAFÉ DE FLORE The best time to visit Café de Flore is on Mondays and the first Wednesday of every month at 8pm when readings and philosophy discussions in English are held respectively. 172 St-Germain, 6ème
25
Missing the mother tongue? Head straight to the legendary SHAKESPEARE & COMPANY book store. Books are crammed into every spare inch of space and stacked precariously on battered furniture. Climb the rickety stairs and browse the clusters of notices left by expats hosting bookclubs, artist groups, language classes and poetry readings. Having once been a gathering place for writers like Ezra Pound, Ernest Hemingway and James Joyce, the store has become a fixture on the tourist trail. Yet it continues to attract poets and dreamers who gather to drink coffee and talk about their heroes. Book signings by award-winning writers are commonplace so keep your eye out for upcoming events. 37 rue de la B没cherie, 5猫me
26
CHAMPS-ELYSÉES
CHAMPSELYSÉES 8e & 16e
A place to lay your (bejewelled) head
18 17
19 9
PLAZA ATHENÉE // Sleep amongst the big name fashion boutiques in this
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25 ave Montaigne, 8ème
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Don’t miss
It’s mandatory viewing for any tourist no matter how many times they’ve visited the city of lights: Les Champs-Elysées, Arc du Triomphe, Place de la Concorde... MÉTRO: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau, Charles de GaulleEtoile, Madeleine, Monceau, Villiers, Franklin D. Roosevelt
MAISON BACCARAT // A Phillipe
PALAIS DU TOKYO // An exciting
Starck creation, this restaurant, shop and museum/gallery space is dedicated to the crystal manufacture Baccarat.
contemporary art mall in an incredible space right on the banks of the Seine. 13 ave du Président Wilson, 16ème ...
LISTEN TO: Bonjour Paris Michael Legrand Ready Onra and Quetzal Raid the Radio General Elektriks Florence Sur Les Champs-Elysées Miles Davis Sous Le Ciel De Paris Yves Montand
...
VIEW OF THE EIFFEL TOWER //
HÔTEL DE CRILLON // Leave
Goes without saying. Place du Trocadéro
at home and drink a glass of champagne at the grandiose Hôtel de Crillon. Gilt, mirrors and marble are all in abundance and the Les Ambassadeurs restaurant has its eye on a third Michelin star. 10 place de la Concorde, 8ème
ESPACE CULTUREL LOUIS VUITTON // Art space located above the
LV/HQ. 60 rue de Bassano, 8ème
8e & 16e
CHAMPS-ELYSÉES
27
Stop
Shop
Roll
TOKYO EAT // The Palais du
SAINT JAMES // Nautical stripe
LES PASSAGES COUVERTS // Enjoy
canteen. Perfect for refueling after exploring the collections. 13 ave du Président Wilson, 16ème
one of the best French souvenirs you can get.
... AVENUE DU PRÉSIDENT WILSON MARKET //
... LOUIS VUITTON // Okay, so you
quality food market in Paris. To
we only discovered this in our last days in Paris. Held every Wednesday and Sunday morning. Avenue Président Wilson, between rue Debrousse and Place d’Iéna
trip to the Louis Vuitton store is as much about its celebrated spiral interior as the wares. Glass walls composed of tiny Vuitton logos divide up the space, scarlet briefcases are displayed in rigid vertical formations like an art installation, and there’s a bookshop with the expected but luxe travel guides. It’s a touch of
the beautiful surrounds of the covered passageways in this area. Built in the 19th Century, they are charming early versions of the shopping mall. There are several in the vicinity of bvd Haussmann and rue Vivienne, including passage and passage Verdeau, and across the blvd Haussmann in the 2nd, the passage des Panoramas.
... LA TABLE DU 8 // Maison Martin
Take tea amidst total monochrome sophistication, or spend the night in their ‘couture’ concept hotel. 8 rue Jean Goujon, 8ème ROYAL MONCEAU //
interior, electric guitars, modern art, Clarins spa, Pierre Hermé desserts, cigar room, cinema... Did LAFAYETTE GOURMET // This
just simply has to be done. The Galeries Lafayette food hall is just outstanding. There are pastries and savoury treats aplenty, and you can also dine in if you’re feet are sore from all the clothes hunting.
AVENUE MONTAIGNE & AVENUE GEORGE V // Go celeb spotting
at the premier shopping district in Paris. Sounds like an episode of AbFab: Dior, Prada, Chanel, Dolce&Gabbana, Balenciaga... There’s even Baby Dior. CÉLINE // Fashion superstar
Phoebe Philo’s boutique. 24 rue François 1er, 8ème
GAGOSIAN GALLERY // Art gallery
owned and directed by Larry ArtReview’s “Power people in the contemporary art
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CHAMPS-ELYSÉES
CHAMPSELYSÉES When 5-stars simply won’t do The French government recently introduced a new ‘palace’ hotel rating, which is awarded to those hotels deemed a cut above the tourism authority’s 5-star rating. It’s designed to help travellers identify the cream of the country’s many swanky hotels. In 2012, only four Paris properties made the grade – the Bristol, the Meurice, the Park Hyatt and the Plaza Athenée.
The Avenue from top to Laboutin-clad toe LES CHAMPS STOMP //
for a great mix of youthful
ADDRESS BOOK Avenue du Président Wilson Market Ave Président Wilson, between rue Debrousse & place d’Iéna, 8e Balenciaga FASHION 10 ave Georges V, 8e Butik BREAKFAST TAKE AWAY 142 ave des Champs-Elysées, 8e Creed PARFUMERIE 38 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie, 8e Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton 60 rue de Bassano, 8e
ART
Fauchon COFFEE DELI 24-26, 30 place de la Madeleine, 8e La Table du 8 BAR 8 rue Jean Goujon, 8e
Le 66 FASHION ACCESSORIES 66 ave des Champs-Elysées, 8e
Noura LEBANESE 27 ave Marceau, 16e
Le Baron CLUB 6 ave Marceau, 8e
Palais du Tokyo GALLERY CAFÉ 101 ave des Champs-Elysées, 8e
Le Grand Palais MUSEUM ART 3 ave du Général Eisenhower, 8e
Plaza Athenée HOTEL 25 ave Montaigne, 8e
Le Schmuck COCKTAIL BAR 43 rue de Ponthieu, 8e
Princess Diana Memorial Place de l’Alma, 8e
Louis Vuitton ACCESSORIES FASHION 101 ave des Champs-Elysées, 8e
Publicis Drugstore EVERYTHING 133 ave des Champs-Elysées, 8e
Maison Baccarat MUSEUM GALLERY 11 place des Etats-Unis, 16e
Sephora BEAUTY COSMETICS 70 ave des Champs-Elysées, 8e
Musée d’Art Moderne MUSEUM ART 11 ave du Président Wilson, 16e
Tom Ford MENSWEAR 48 rue François, 1er
MONUMENT
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FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE LIKE POWER BALLADS? LISTEN TO RTN2. PREFER INDIE POP, SWEATY ROCK’N’ROLL, DANCE OR EXPERIMENTAL JAZZ? CHECK OUT THE CITY’S LIVE MUSIC SCENE
PARIS OFFERS A HUGE AND DIVERSE RANGE OF MUSIC VENUES AND IT’S NOT UNCOMMON TO FIND CHEAP, OR EVEN FREE, ENTRY. THERE’S TOE-TAPPING, ARMFLAPPING FUN EVERY NIGHT OF THE WEEK!
LA GAÏTE LYRIQUE A new-ish venue with a state-of-the-art concert hall and a beautiful Baroquestyle bar area. Attracts bands from a cross-section of genres at modest prices. 3 rue Papin, 3ème POINT EPHEMÈRE All arts venue with dance, music, art, special conferences. This place has it all plus a fabulous location on the Canal. 200 quai de Valmy, 10ème LE TRIPTYQUE On the Top Five list of Paris clubs since its opening, thanks to a careful and varied music program. A stylish club in the midst of the bustle of the Grands Boulevards. 142 rue Montmartre, 2ème
DUC DES LOMBARDS One of the best jazz clubs in town. 42 rue des Lombards, 1er NEW MORNING For fabulous jazz. 7–9 rue des Petites Ecuries, 10ème
LE TRABENDO Hosting some well-known acts, it’s a great place to catch a show any night of the week. You’ll find everything from dub to indie rock to electro-pop. 211 avenue Jean Jaurès, 19ème LA FLÈCHE D’OR The true temple of the European rock scene. Free entry. 102 rue de Bagnolet, 20ème
MACHINE DU MOULIN ROUGE Big new concert venue next door to the Moulin Rouge. Welcomes everyone from Peaches to Afrika Bambaataa 90 bvd de Clichy, 18ème LA MAROQUINERIE A famous concert hall, trendy club, and a café littéraire, topped off by a beautiful terrace to enjoy in warm weather and a spacious dining room. 23 rue Boyer, 20ème
Lift your spirits and take in the view from LA BASILIQUE DU SACRÉ CŒUR.
9e & 18e
MONTMARTRE
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Montmartre is the stuff of legend: picturesque, steep cobblestoned laneways, wild caberet clubs, louche artists and seedy sex shops. The adjacent area south of Pigalle (SoPi) is where the chic come out to play with an endless list of great gourmet and fashion destinations to stuff you with joie de vivre for days on end.
Don’t miss LE BAL //
Place de Clichy. The café is an arty foodie haven, combining
MÉTRO: Pigalle, Abbesses, Sacré-Coeur, Lamarck LISTEN TO: Montmartre Django Reinhardt & Rex Stewart A Paris Francis Lemarque Pigalle Georges Ulmer Paris is Burning Ladyhawke Sur La Planche La Femme
SACRÉ CŒUR // Take a packed
contemporary photography gallery tucked down a mellow to sit, admire the view, and listen to the buskers. Rufus made his cognac or a bottle of Kro’. and carefully selected wine. The attached bookstore lets you linger longer and it all combines to create an ultra original and super comfy space. I wish we had more spaces like this at home! Great art and food is a no brainer.
BACK STREET CHARM // Stroll
around Place des Abbesses, where the rustic houses and narrow streets escaped the heavy hand of urban planner Baron was in fact a separate village, dotted with windmills.
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MONTMARTRE
MONTMARTRE (9e & 18e)
HÔTEL AMOUR // André, the
LE CARMEN // Legend has it that
nightlife impresario, has reworked this SoPi building into a hip bobo
opera here in this superb
with art, iPod docks and Kiehl’s toiletries and downstairs features
brothel, turned sumptious new nightspot that gets Paris dancing. Barefoot. On carpet. 22 rue de Douai, 9ème
8 rue Navarin, 9ème Fill your bags...
Put on the red light Montmartre has really cleaned up and turned on the charm but the area around Pigalle is still known as the capital’s red-light district... Inspect old sex customs at the world’s best EROTIC MUSEUM: seven floors of serious sexual anthropology! 72 bvd de Clichy, 18ème You can still see shows at the MOULIN ROUGE and the pocketsized cabaret LAPIN AGILE, though much of the entertainment here is on the seedier side.
SPREE //
PRINCESSE TAM TAM //
multibrand fashion destination. Labels such as Acne, Marc Jacobs and Isabel Marant jostle for rackspace in the cosy boutique. 16 rue de la Vieuville, 18ème
and wearable lingerie, swimwear and sleepwear. Pretty and frivolous and so Frenchy. Plenty of other locations. 31 rue des Abbesses, 18ème
...
...
CANCAN // In the heart of
CHINE MACHINE // This jumble
a womenswear and accessories’ store, presents an edgy selection of young designers from Scandinavia, Britain and Australia. Alert: get your Antipodium here!
of Montmartre has wonderful vintage with really reasonable prices and tonnes of personality!
TOMBÉS DU CAMION // Treasure
trove of pristine vintage objects.
9e & 18e
MONTMARTRE
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LA CAVE DES ABBESSES //
This is a wine shop where you can drink and nibble. It’s the essence of a neighbourhood wine shop, unpretentious in wines for everyday consumption at excellent prices. A handful of sidewalk tables and the of the shop serve as a wine bar. Regulars drop in for a glass of wine and a plate of rillettes or chese on their way to or from running errands. 43 rue des Abbesses, 18ème
... pause ...
... fill your stomach
PARADIGME CAFÉ // Following
CAUSSES //
GUILO GUILO // Chef Edakuni was
concept in the hip South Pigalle area, bringing together a food hall, a restaurant and cookery lessons under the motto of sain, savoureux, 55 rue Notre Dame de Lorette, 9ème
a superstar back in Japan, and in his new home in Paris he cooks his incredibly delicious new wave cuisine in a small open kitchen. Book well in advance. 8 rue Garreau, 18ème
...
...
...
KOOKA BOORA // An Australian
LE PROGRÈS // A handsome café
ROSE BAKERY // A popular
café, so one of the few spots in all of Paris where one is guaranteed
at the foot of the Sacré Coeur. It has a warm vibe to it, and the giant windows make it a nice and bright spot for drinks and
brunch spot with its roots in
Paradigme, serving expertly tea delights.
as delicious soups, sandwiches and other assorted baked goods. week. Quite a lovely terrace, too.
tables on the footpath to snatch when the weather is mild. 7 rue des Trois Frères, 18ème
a small rotating selection of dishes and make excellent baked orange cake that is to die for!
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ADDRESS BOOK Antirouille VINTAGE 2 rue Gérando, 9e
Galerie Chappe ROCK ‘N’ ROLL GALLERY 4 rue André Barsacq, 19e
Le Petit Trianon CAFÉ 80 bvd de Rochechouart, 18e
Arnaud Delmontel BOULANGERIE 39 rue des Martyrs, 9e
Galerie Christine Diegoni 47 rue Orsel, 18e
Le Progrès BAR CAFÉ 7 rue des Trois Frères, 18e
Atypyk DESIGN KNICK-KNACKS 17 rue Lambert, 18e
Gals Rock VINYL FASHION 17 rue Henri Monnier, 9e
Marcel BREAKFAST BRUNCH 1 Villa Léandre, 18e
Au Levain du Marais BOULANGERIE 48 rue Caulaincourt, 18e
Guilo Guilo JAPANESE 8 rue Garreau, 18e
Marché des Batignolles ORGANIC MARKETS bvd des Batignolles between rue des Batignolles and rue Puteux (Sat)
Cancan FASHION 30 rue Henry Monmer, 9e
Hôtel Amour HOTEL 8 rue Navarin, 9e
Café des Deux Moulins 15 rue Lepic, 18e
AMÉLIE’S CAFÉ
DESIGN
COFFEE
CAFE
Paradigme Café COFFEE 27 rue Ramey, 18e
Kooka Boora COFFEE 62 rue des Martyrs, 9e
Causses GROCER 55 Notre-Dame de Lorette, 9e
La Cave des Abbesses WINE 43 rue des Abbesses, 18e
Chez Francis CAFÉ 122 rue Caulaincourt, 18e
La Colline d’Asie VIETNAMESE BUNS 21 rue André del Sarte, 18e
Chine Machine VINTAGE 100 rue des Martyrs, 18e
La Famille COCKTAILS 41 rue des Trois-Frères, 18e
Clos Montmartre Vineyard VINEYARD rue Saint-Vincent, rue des Saules, 18e
La Pizzetta PIZZA 22 rue Trudaine, 9e
Cul de Poule BRUNCH 53 rue des Martyrs, 9e
l’Afghani AFGHANI RESTAURANT 16 rue Paul Albert, 18e
Cupcakerie Chloé S CUPCAKES 40 rue Jean Baptiste Pigalle, 9e
l’Embuscade BAR 47 rue de la Rochefoucault, 9e
Picasso’s residence FAMOUS PLACE 11 bvd de Clichy, 18e Pigalle MENSWEAR 7 rue Henry Monnier, 9e Princesse Tam Tam LINGERIE 31 rue des Abbesses, 18e Rose Bakery BRUNCH 46 rue des Martyrs, 9e Spree FASHION 16 rue Vieuville, 18e Studio 28 COFFEE FILM 10 rue Tholozé, 18e Tombés du Camion
VINTAGE KNICK-
KNACKS
Degas’ residence FAMOUS PLACE 6 bvd de Clichy, 18e
l’Office BISTRO 3 rue Richer, 9e
17 rue Joseph de Maistre, 18e
Erotic Museum NAUGHTY 72 bvd de Clichy, 18e
Le Bal PHOTOGRAPHY CAFE BOOKS 6 impasse de la Défense, 18e
Exodisc VINYL 70 rue du Mont-Cenis, 18e
Le Carmen LIVE MUSIC 22 rue de Douai, 9e
Floors BRUNCH COFFEE 100 rue Myrha, 18e
Le Petit Bleu BISTRO 23 rue Muller, 18e
BAR CLUB
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AU COEUR DU PAIN THINK YOU KNOW YOUR BAGUETTES FROM YOUR BANETTES? THEN YOU OUGHT TO KNOW THAT THE HOTTEST BAKERIES ARE IN MONTMARTRE
BOULANGERIE MAUVIEUX The 2012 grand-prize winner of the Meilleure Baguette in Paris is Sebastien Maugieux. For the next year, he’ll be keeping newly appointed president, François Hollande, supplied with his baguettes traditions. Previously, Mauvieux was also awarded the prize for best croissant in Paris. Closed Sundays. 159 rue Ordener, 18ème
AU DUC DE LA CHAPELLE The 2008 Meilleure Baguette was awarded to Anis Bouabsa, a 28-year old Tunisian-Frenchman whose shop is way off on the edge of the city, in the immigrant-filled suburbs. 32-34 rue Tristan Tzara, 18ème LE GUILLOUZIC This unadorned spot makes a delicious baguette that was awarded 1/3 stars in the Palmarès 2005 Boulangeries de Paris guidebook – “a very good bakery” indeed. Closed Sundays. 54 rue Custine, 18ème
AU LEVAIN D’ANTAN As well as the crusty baguette d’Antan, fans are devoted to the slighter ficelle and indulgent pain au chocolat. Baker Pascal Barillon took home last year’s (2011) Meilleure Baguette de Paris prize. Closed weekends. 6 rue des Abbesses, 18ème ARNAUD DELMONTEL Double up on carbs after a visit to Rose Bakery by skipping across the street to this shop and perpetual contender for the Meilleure Baguette de Paris contest. Delmontel’s “Renaissance” baguette is made with sel de Guérande (voted best salt in the world), and supplies energy to the lovers at the hip Hotel Amour around the corner. Closed Mondays. 39 rue des Martyrs, 18ème
LE GRENIER À PAIN ABBESSES Djibril Bodian was picked for top place in 2010’s Meilleure Baguette de Paris contest. What’s more, his bakery was one of only five citywide to earn 3/3 stars in the Palmarès 2005 Boulangeries de Paris. This classification translates roughly as “to die for”. Closed Wednesdays. 38 rue des Abbesses, 18ème
COQUELICOT DES ABBESSES In addition to a killer baguette (6th place in 2007’s contest), Coquelicot is a favourite address because of its two-level dining room. The P’tit Dej’Energie breakfast special (¤4.45) includes a giant bowl of coffee, tea or chocolate, and a half-baguette with homemade jam, farm butter and artisinal honey. Closed Mondays. 24 rue des Abbesses, 18ème BOULANGERIE ALEXINE Monsieur Plachais is no stranger to the Meilleure Baguette contest. Trophies from his Top 10 rankings in both ’07 and ‘08 are on display in his bakery. Closed Tuesdays. 40 rue Lepic, 18ème
Admire the view from PARC DES BUTTES CHAUMONT.
Skip stones like Amélie at CANAL ST-MARTIN’S iron footbridges.
10e, 19e & 20e
PARIS NORD
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The north was our home; our main stomping ground. These are the neighbourhoods and streets I miss the most and the hold the strongest memories of life in Paris. These addresses are off the tourist path and offer a glimpse into the day-to-day lives of the young, the bohemian, and the immigrants who inhabit the area.
Don’t miss PARC DES BUTTES CHAUMONT //
Paris’ most romantic park was built under Napoleon III and
HAPPY HOUR AT RUE OBERKAMPF // On a Summer’s eve, the cafés
and bars along rue Oberkampf literally burst across the street.
caves, waterfalls, footbridges, a MÉTRO: Parmentier, République, Gare de l’Est, Jacques Bonsergent, Strasbourg St-Denis
LISTEN TO: Streets of Paris The Teenagers Menilmontant Charles Trent A Quai Yann Tierson Non Je Ne Regrette Rien Edith Piaf Ca Plane Pour Moi Nouvelle Vague
PLACE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE // If
madness in the form of a
perched on a promontory overlooking the entire park. CANAL ST-MARTIN // Pick a sunny
day, any sunny day, and relax on the water’s edge with a beer and some friends.
you hear a protest rumbling, head here! There’s usually music, dancing and food. The Place was receiving a facelift on my last visit so it will be very exciting to see its new look. Place de la République, 10ème
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PARIS NORD
PARIS NORD (10e, 19e & 20e) Paris via California BOB’S JUICE BAR //
,
Californian style. 15 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10ème
Eating & drinking, bobo style ...
LE VERRE VOLÉ // Grab a bottle of
to it expanding to include two
Canal Saint-Martin This is the bohemian heartland of Paris. Begin at the picturesque cast-iron footbridges and leafy waterways of the canal and branch out to the trendy back-streets lined with cafés and boutiques.
... SOYA CANTINE BIO // Vegan eatery
DU PAIN ET DES IDÉES // My
favourite boulangerie in Paris makes the most incredibly inventive baked goods with delicious ingredients like rhubarb, goats cheese and candied nuts. Now supplying to the famous Alain Ducasse empire, they’re so successful they
set in a wonderful industrial brunch is quite incredible. Starve yourself beforehand. 20 rue Pierre Levée, 10ème HELMUT NEWCAKE // Patisserie
, 10ème
... ROSA BONHEUR // The best spot
inside Buttes Chaumont to grab a bite or meet friends for a beer. la Cascade, 19ème
10e, 19e & 20e
ANTOINE & LILI // Antoine &
Lili’s are all over Paris now, but these ones are my favourites. Go for cheap, colourful homewares and clothing. Perfect for buying colourful gifts and trinkets to take home with you.
PARIS NORD
THANX GOD I’M A VIP // A
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POINT EPHEMÈRE // This former
Hallelujah!
cargo warehouse is actually an industrial squat run by an artist’s collective and they regularly put on exhibitions on art, architecture and fashion, as well as gigs by up and coming bands. So indie!
LA CHAMBRE AUX OISEAUX //
SÉSAME //
usually lack the patience for designer racks here have been
... we’re still going
HOTEL DU NORD //
snooty, but I love the décor of to nab a table outside in the sun and watch the canalside revellers. Garance Doré approves. 102 quai de Jemmapes, 10ème
with great homemade lunch and afternoon tea options. You could lose a Sunday in a book there.
lunchtime destination. Very fresh, organic, healthy and light. Think smoothies, bagels, carrot
...
...
...
PASSAGE BRADY // This is Paris’s
CHEZ PRUNE // The original
PACHYDERME // Our real local.
version of London’s Brick Lane curry strip. If you don’t feel like Indian, go just to check it out and absorb the atmosphere. It runs adjacent to boulevard de Strasbourg
Look to the East on the rue René Boulanger and see the café called La
to have Pachyderme to come and
métro stops.
Gorgeous bohème interior, tasty menu du jour still draw the bobo crowds. 36 rue Beaurepaire, 10ème
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PARIS NORD
PARIS NORD (10e, 19e & 20e) Chill out or sleep over MAMA SHELTER // A designer hotel at democratic prices located behind
the Père Lachaise cemetery. Stay the night or just hang out at its hip 109 rue de Bagnolet, 20ème
Authentic Parisian and multi-cultural swag
SPRING COURT //
LA BOTICA // A fantastic
made and possibly the most comfortable baskets you will
international boutique of brilliant young designers from varying cultural backgrounds. Their clothing and décor artistry is of remarkable originality, like
home. John Lennon sported his on the cover of . 5 passage Piver, 11ème Belleville & Oberkampf A burgeoning restaurant scene joins the plentiful bar, music and nightlife options in this laid back and super-hip neighbourhood. Art galleries nestle alongside multi-cultural food suppliers.
... FARGO STORE // An indie record
store keeping vinyl alive!
Am stewardess hats, or Bonnes Têtes dolls, not to mention all the furniture. But beware: One look at the display window and 89 rue de Bagnolet, 20ème
CÉRAMISTE ALICE RIEHL //
Ethereal porcelain creations with
... LA BAGUE DE KENZA //
china. Breathtaking.
watering Oriental treats.
10e, 19e & 20e
VINTAGE 77 // Pucci, YSL, Chanel, Fendi, Cacharel...vintage, yes, but plenty of contemporary designs, too, like Vanessa Bruno, all at very, very palatable prices. 77 rue de Ménilmontant, 20ème
PARIS NORD
WEST COUNTRY GIRL // Sweet and
MON ONCLE LE VIGNERON // A
Served with a glass of cider.
clock, a big cask in the middle of the room... it’s like visiting friends in the country. Cordon Bleu friends! 2 rue Pradier, 20ème
... JEANNE A // Dine in or take away
...
from this fresh gourmet deli.
MOMO FRINGUES // This vintage
and secondhand shop is a must for every fashionista on the planet, just as it is for Vogue Japan, Elle Italy, and others… 31 rue Ménilmontant, 20ème
... LE ROULEAU DE PRINTEMPS // CAFÉ DES SPORTS // In the
heights with a sublime view of the city. Funky music, great cocktails, theme nights:
COME BACK // Glasses, bags,
dresses, shoes, jewellery, boots, hats, clutch bags...The vintage pieces are not only distinctive
43
94 rue de Ménilmontant, 20ème
This restaurant may be très petit, but it’s the best boboun in
a banana leaf, chive pancakes, and other delights. 42 rue Tourtille, 20ème
back again and again. 51 rue des Orteaux, 20ème LES PÈRES POPULAIRES // A
savvy, funny, friendly clientele of students, bohos, and employees from the Galliano studio
has become THE place to be in
46 rue de Buzenval, 20ème
The happy hour hustle AUX DEUX AMIS // A retro décor, excellent wine, delicious tapas and
handsome waiters make this popular spot the perfect place to hang out from bar to restaurant to bar to club to bar to...
44
PARIS NORD
PARIS NORD (10e, 19e & 20e)
LE JARDIN DE BELLEVILLE // From
PLACE MAURICE CHEVALIER // For
here you can see all of Paris! The Belleville garden is one of the highlights of the capital and the place for witnessing superb sunsets.
a real post card view: The church
...
benches spotted with old folks and smokers, bars La Petanque and Bar Chichi, its boulangerie, its bowls court. Métro Ménilmontant
RUE DÉNOYEZ //
air museum on a street where residents have adapted their balconies, doors, and windows to the lively colors of these Sistinian masterpieces. LA CAMPAGNE À PARIS // Formerly
Belleville is the Paris of artists, experiences and social change. It was the Paris of the workers, of Edith Piaf, the commune. It is an arrondissement DEVOTED TO GRAFFITI. Among the must-see open-air exhibits is on the corner of rue des Pyrénées and rue de Lagny on the walls of the massive bus depots (sadly scheduled for demolition). The frescoes change constantly, regularly replaced by new artistic works. Explore the heights of Menilmontant, pay your respects at the Cimitière Père Lachaise and visit Paris’s Chinese neighbourhood...
a workers quarter that was on the fringe, but today, this is one of the hippest spots in town: a sort of country retreat in Paris with its strawberry colored houses, small gardens, vine covered walls, blue shutters, and sounding bells… Métro: Porte de Bagnolet LA RUE MÉNILMONTANT // One
... RUE DE BAGNOLET // Strewn
with paved alleys, factories transformed into homes, a wild garden, villas painted in vibrant colors, fun bars, and unique boutiques It’s on this street where Mama Shelter lives. PLACE DES PANOYAUX // A square
so tiny that it gets eaten up by three atypical businesses: an exotic grocery store, a cafe called le Pascalou, and a boulangerie, which can be more aptly described as an excellent restaurant. Métro: Ménilmontant
of the steepest streets in the arriving at the summit, have a
LES RUES DE L’ERMITAGE ET DES CASCADES // Two streets
view of Paris.
of identical loveliness: villas, greenery, red and yellow houses,
RUE DE LA VILLETTE // The place
to buy with stores featuring clothing, decorative arts, books, got the bohemian feel of street photographer Cartier Bresson.
covered in climbing roses, cats… Métro: Jourdain
45
10e, 19e & 20e
ADDRESS BOOK Agnès B. FASHION 13 rue de Marseille, 10e
Fargo Store VINYL 42 rue de la Folie-Méricourt, 11e
Paris-Féni BANGLADESHI SALAD JUICES 15 rue Ternaux, 11e
American Apparel FASHION 10 rue Beaurepaire, 10e
Fromagerie de Mme Jouanneau 5 place Auguste-Métivier, 20e
Pho Dong Huong VIETNAMESE 14 rue Louis Bonnet, 20e
A.P.C. FASHION 5 rue de Marseille, 10e
Helmut Newcake GLUTEN-FREE BAKERY 36 rue Bichat, 10e
Point Ephemère MUSIC CAFE 200 quai de Valmy, 10e
Artazart BOOKS 83 quai de Valmy, 10e
Hotel du Nord CAFE 102 quai de Jemmapes, 10e
Rosa Bonheur CAFE Parc des Buttes Charmont, 2 ave de la Cascade, 19e
Au Passage BISTRO 1 passage St-Sébastien, 11e
Jeanne A DELI 42 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11e
Aux Deux Amis TAPAS WINE BAR 45 rue Oberkampf, 11e
La Bague de Kenza CAKES 106 rue Saint-Maur, 11e
Beau Travail DESIGN 67 rue de la Mare, 20e
La Chambre aux Oiseaux 48 rue Bichat, 10e
Bob’s Juice Bar JUICES SMOOTHIES 15 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10e
Le Look TAKE AWAY VEGETARIAN 17 rue Martel, 10e
Café A CAFE 148 rue du Faubourg St-Martin, 10e
L’épicerie Du 4 DELI GOURMET FOOD 4 rue de la Villette, 20e
Café Caché CAFE 104 rue d’Aubervilliers, 19e
Le Verre Volé BAR A VINS 67 rue de Lancry, 10e
Café Charbon CAFE 109 rue Oberkampf, 11e
Maje FASHION 4 rue de Marseille, 10e
Céramiste Alice Riehl 33 rue Planchat, 20e
Nanashi JAPANESE VEGETARIAN 31 rue de Paradis, 10e
CERAMICS
CHEESE
Rouleau de Printemps THAI CHINESE 42 rue de Tourtille, 20e Sandro FASHION 93 quai de Valmy, 10e
CAFE
Chatomat RESTAURANT 6 rue Victor Letalle, 20e
Mama Shelter HOSTEL BAR RESTAURANT 109 rue de Bagnolet, 20e
Chez Prune CAFE 36 rue Beaurepaire, 10e
Marché Belleville MARKET Bld de Belleville, 20e
Culture Rapide POETRY SLAM BAR 103 Rue Julien Lacroix, 19e
Musée Edith Piaf 5 rue Crespin du Gast, 20e
Du Pain et des Idées BAKERY 34 rue Yves Toudic, 10e
Pan RESTAURANT COCKATAILS 12 rue Martel, 10e
Sésame BRUNCH VEGETARIAN ORGANIC 51 quai de Valmy, 10e Soya Cantine Bio VEGAN RESTAURANT 20 rue Pierre Levée, 10e Spring Court SNEAKERS 5 passage Piver, 11e Sweat Shop SEWING CAFE 13 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10e Thanx God I’m a VIP VINTAGE 12 rue de Lancry, 10e Viveka Bergstrom JEWELLERY 23 rue de la Grange aux Belles, 10e West Country Girl CREPES 6 passage St-Ambroise, 11e Zoé Bouillon SOUP BAR 66 rue Rébeval, 20e Le Merle Moqueur BOOKS 51 rue de Bagnolet, 20e
Peak inside the beautiful planterbox-adorned windows, visible from LA PROMENADE PLANTﾃ右.
11e & 12e BASTILLE
47
BASTILLE (11e & 12e) 18 17
19 9
10
8 2
3
1 16
7
20 11
4 6
5
15
12 14
13
Now that Bastille is home to trendy bars, furniture makers and is the gastronomic epicentre of Paris, it’s easy to forget its history as the starting point of the French Revolution. It is still the meeting place for the regular political demonstrations in Paris. MÉTRO: Faubourg St-Antoine, Rue de Charonne, Ledru-Rollin, Faidherbe-Chaligny, Gare de Lyon
Don’t miss LA PROMENADE PLANTÉE // The
defunct railway tracks atop the Viaduc des Arts have been replaced by a pathway planted with roses, shrubs and rosemary.
a botanical garden and one of French history.
into people’s apartments for a glimpse of Parisian home life. LISTEN TO: Jardin d’Hiver Keren Ann A Quai Yann Tiersen Le Flying Saucer Hat Chairlift Raid the Radio General Elektriks J’Aime Paris Au Mois De Mai Charles Aznavour
BOIS DE VINCENNES // These woods are a day trip in of
Daumesnil end, the craft showrooms in the arches are worth looking into. Walk the promenade from east to west you’ll end up close to Bastille and all the bars along rue Charonne.
CINÉMATÈQUE FRANÇAISE // Paris
is a cinephile’s dream city, and its
home in Bercy. Expect exhibitions dedicated to celebrated French directors, such
48
BASTILLE
BASTILLE (11e & 12e) SEPTIME // A tiny, modern open
MARCHÉ D’ALIGRE // You may
kitchen, controlled by former Agapé chef Bertrand Grébaut,
have to sift through some tat, but it’s worth it. Marché d’Aligre
impeccable technique and a long waiting list.
markets where you can uncover true gems at bargain prices on
... PINK FLAMINGO //
creations exit the ovens at this vibrantly coloured restaurant, each named after an inspirational person: try La Basquiat or L’Almodovar has now spread to more locations around Paris. They can take a while to cook so if you don’t want to hang around waiting, head to their canal with your pink balloon. When it’s ready, they look for your balloon and deliver it by hand! 23 rue d’Aligre, 12ème
stalls. It’s where all the serious dealers go when on the hunt for original antiquities from around the country. Watch out for overpriced books, kitchenware
meats and groceries at the earth Marché Beauvau. ... BLÉ SUCRÉ // Meaning sweet
wheat, this delectable pastry shop is where you must stop for Or try their incredible Raboloit
7 rue Antoine Vollon, 12ème LE TRAIN BLEU // Enjoy art pieces sourced from rarely seen private collections at LA MAISON ROUGE. The architectural space also includes a tasty café run by the Rose Bakery crew. 10 bvd de la Bastille, 12ème
this brasserie inside the Gare de
LE BAR À SOUPES // Healthy
elaborate frescos paying tribute to the glory of travel. A must see.
dished up daily, all served with a good side of bread.
LE PASSAGE // A relaxed, local
HI-MATIC //
gourmet bistro is perfect for
tech, eco hotel from Paris designer Matali Crasset.
three oustanding courses. 18 passage de la Bonne Graine, 11ème
11e & 12e BASTILLE
ISABEL MARANT // Ms Marant
boutique here back in 1998. Now her look is the uniform of cool Parisian ladies. Shop her knits, trousers and accessories,
Paris Vogue tick of approval.
49
LA COCOTTE // Whilst in the
SESSÙN // Sessùn has just one store
culinary quartier of Paris, stock up on the cute cookware and foodie books at La Cocotte. The name means chicken so little chickens decorate the range of objects for sale. If none of that tempts you, you must try one of their devilishly good dulce de leche biscuits. 5 rue Paul Bert, 11ème
in Paris and it’s located here in Bastille. Combining raw fabrics, a natural feel and urban inspiration, Sessùn clothes embody artistic expression, with the label actively collaborating with musicians, dancers and graphic designers.
... ...
...
UN LIVRE – UNE IMAGE // The
NAT & NIN @ CHROMATIC //
owner of this shop, Emmanuelle Fructus, has been in the business of collecting old black and white photographs, some colour and
FRENCH TROTTERS // It’s not
hard to be chic in Paris if you stocked at French Trotters. The fashion emporium sells Comme des Garçons, Le Mont St Michel, Jérôme Dreyfuss and APC Madras. Visit next door for the children’s edition.
and colours. They can sell as fast as croissants on a Sunday morning. 51 rue du Faubourg St Antoine, 11ème
17 rue Alexandre Dmuas, 11ème
LA BOTTE GARDIANE // French
shoes will complete your look. boutique for boots and sandals made from authentic French leather. Each pair is crafted in their workshop in Villetelle.
MAISON POS // A tiny organic
produce store selling a tightly curated selection of fresh, dairy, charcuterie products and, of course, wine.
The unofficial headquarters of the Marché Aligre LE BARON ROUGE //
at peak apéro times or on Sunday mornings... Feel like a glass of wine cheeses and charcuterie are generous.
50
BASTILLE
Freewheeling Paris EXPLORE THE CITY ON TWO WHEELS // VÉLIB
FAT TIRES bike tour of Paris at dusk. You’ll take in many of the main tourist sites of the city and see people dancing along the banks of the Seine. They even make a stop to eat Berthillion Gelato on Ile St Louis. Keep your eyes peeled for Johnny Depp, who has an apartment nearby!
ADDRESS BOOK Amici Miei PIZZA 44 rue Saint-Sabin, 11e
French Trotters FASHION 30 rue de Charonne, 11e
Le Tiffin INDIAN TAKE AWAY 43 rue Charonne, 11e
Amorino GELATI 4 rue de la Roquette, 11e
Galerie Patrick Seguin DESIGN 5 rue des Taillandiers, 11e
Le Train Bleu BISTRO 1st floor, Gare de Lyon, 12e
Auguste MENS 10 rue Saint Sabin, 11é
Hi-Matic HOSTEL 71 rue de Charonne, 11e
Maison Dr Hauschka BEAUTY 39 rue de Charonne, 11e
Bottleshop BAR BRUNCH 5 rue Trousseau, 11e
Isabel Marant FASHION 16 rue de Charonne, 11e
Marché d’Aligre Mo Ledru-Rollin
Born Bad Records 17 rue Keller, 11e
La Botte Gardiane SHOES 25 rue de Charonne, 11e
Marché Bastille MARKETS Bastille Square, 11e
Café de l’Industrie CAFE 17 rue Saint-Sabin, 11e
La Cocotte KITCHENWARE BOOKS 5 rue Paul Bert, 11e
Moisan BAKERY 5 place d’Aligre, 12e
Caravane 19 INTERIORS 19 rue Saint Nicolas, 12e
La Maison Rouge ART CAFE 10 bvd de la Bastille, 12e
Rino ITALIAN 46 rue Trousseau, 11e
Cinématèque Française CULTURE 51 rue de Bercy, 12e
Le Bar à Soupes VEGETARIAN 33 rie de Charonne, 11e
Septime RESTAURANT 80 rue de Charonne 11e
Color Design Hotel 25 rue Cîteaux, 12e
Le Baron Rouge OYSTERS WINE 1 rue Théophile-Roussel, 12e
Sessùn FASHION 30 rue de Charonne, 11e
Come on Eilieen VINTAGE 16 rue des Taillandiers, 11e
Le China COCKTAILS MUSIC 50 rue Charenton, 12e
Twenty One Sound Bar HIP-HOP REGGAE 20 rue de la Forge Royale, 11e
En Ville VINTAGE 13 rue Paul Bert, 11e
Le Passage BISTRO 18 passage de la bonne graine, 11e
Via Gallery DESIGN 29-35 ave Daumesnil, 12e
VINYL
HOTEL
MARKETS
51
GRAVEYARD STOMP PAY YOUR RESPECTS TO SOME OF THE MOST FAMOUS DEAD PEOPLE IN THE WORLD
IT MIGHT SEEM MORBID, BUT THE DEAD SERVE AS SOME OF THE BEST SIGHTSEEING IN ALL OF PARIS. HERE, YOU CAN BE ASSURED OF SOME PEACE & QUIET AWAY FROM THE HECTIC (LIVE) CROWDS ...
CIMETIÈRE DU MONTPARNASSE Pay your respects to Sartre, Beckett, Baudelaire, Maupassant and de Beauvoir. As with the rest of the left bank, it scores highly for literary credibility (there are no dead members of The Doors). Wandering beneath the trees among the headstones makes for one of Paris’s most atmospheric strolls. Entombed artists include Brancusi, Frédéric Bartholdi (who sculpted the Statue of Liberty) and Man Ray, while latterday arrivals include André Citroën (of automobile fame) and Serge Gainsbourg, on whose tomb it’s considered good form to leave a packet of fags. 3 blvd Edgar-Quinet, 14ème
CIMETIÈRE DE MONTMARTRE Established in 1798, this cemetery contains the graves of writers Émile Zola, Alexandre Dumas and Stendhal; composer Jacques Offenbach; artist Edgar Degas; film director François Truffaut; and dancer Vaslav Nijinsky – among others. 20 ave Rachel, 18ème
CIMETIÈRE DU PÈRE-LACHAISE The French would scoff at visiting this cemetery – it’s generally full of tourists crowding around Jim Morrison’s grave, and some of the headstones have been defaced with arrows pointing towards his location (his grave is very anti-climactic). If you go, do so to wander the amazing grounds as it’s Paris’ largest innercity cemetery. The famous buried here include Honoré de Balzac, Sarah Bernhardt, Maria Callas, Frédéric Chopin, Eugène Delacroix, Marcel Marceau, Amadeo Modigliani, Édith Piaf, Marcel Proust, Gertrude Stein, Alice B. Toklas, Rafael Leónidas Trujillo, and Oscar Wilde. bvd Ménilmontant, 20ème
52
THE OUTER EDGE
THE OUTER EDGE
A breath of fresh air BOIS DE BOULOGNE //
of scope for open air activities. Wander through the Jardin de Bagatelle with roses, waterlilies and orangery, hire a bike and see it all astride the saddle or check out the action on the park’s two racecourses.
More green spaces
If you have the time, jump on the métro and uncover the outskirts of the city. Explore lush, hidden gardens and find the nuances of life behind the tourism, the ‘real’ Paris.
PARC ANDRÉ CITRÖEN // Built in
PARC DE LA VILLETTE // So it’s not
1992 on land formerly occupied by a Citroën factory, Parc André Citröen is a postmodern interpretation of a formal garden executed with vision and a sense
technically a green park, rather a cultural and urban park. Home to Cité de la Musique, Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie and La Grande Halle, this space plays host to great festivals and events all year round. It’s also just a vibrant place to hang out or go for a stroll. Métro: Porte de Pantin or Porte de la Villette
towers, computerised fountains, waterfalls and gardens themed sounds make spending time here an unbridled pleasure. Citroën, 15ème
LA PÉRIPHÉRIE
LES PUCES DE SAINT-OUEN // This
shadow of its former self, but there are still some interesting around rue Paul Bert. Look for Galerie Christo and the shop opposite full of Chinese and Indian antiques. Métro: Porte Clignancourt ... PARTI COMMUNISTE FRANÇAIS //
The Communist Party Headquarters is a sweeping undulation of glass designed
THE OUTER EDGE
L’INSTITUT DE MONDE ARABE //
MUSÉE MARMOTTAN-MONET //
Jean Nouvel’s steel and glass masterpiece, L’Institut du Monde Arabe, is a perfect example of how ancient themes can be reinterpreted and presented afresh through modern architecture. Seen from a distance, it looks like a
Bask in the delights of Monet at Musée Marmottan Monet. This former hunting pavilion on Paris’ western edge is home to a vast collection of Monet paintings and provides a rare chance for you to follow the evolution of the artist’s technique, from caricatures in
in and you’ll see that each pane is covered with patterned shutters inspired by the screens of Moorish windows that cast graceful shadows inside. Inside, explore the collection of Middle Eastern art, objects and a library. For more
Niemeyer while exiled in the like a monolithic Soviet block of shape, it’s a stunning building. While there’s no museum or exhibitions to draw you inside, it’s a quintessential piece of architecture that is worth viewing
TOUR MONTPARNASSE // The
Montparnasse in the early
to Belleville and eat tagine and couscous at one of the many north African restaurants that pepper the streets.
famous lily canvasses painted at Giverny. Monet’s Impressionist
as are art and furniture from the that makes this one of Paris’ most enchanting museums.
... HIPPODROME LONGCHAMP //
Longchamp is a race track in the Bois de Boulogne where the famous ... GRANDE ARCHE DE LA DÉFENSE //
It took a Danish architect to design it, sure, but the monumental Grande Arche de la Défense is what completes François
running through Paris. For tourists there are two
of inspired city planning. The
Avenue du Maine, 15ème
53
‘cloud’, a canvas net designed to reduce wind resistance.
there’s plenty of action all year round, including the Dimanches au Galop family events between April and October. Picnic on the lawns, watch your blankets tremble as the horses whoosh by and let the kids pretend they’re racing on the pony rides. Come to Longchamp at the right time and you can also watch the jockeys being weighed in and see the thoroughbreds strut around the paddocks before the race. Route des Tribunes, 16ème
54
AU REVOIR VOLUME DEUX
“THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO SEE PARIS. THE CITY IS LIKE SOME FAVORITE LONG, BEAUTIFULLY WRITTEN NOVEL, WHICH THE READER HOPES WILL NEVER END.” – A. TUNG
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS To Bob and Mary Hodge, for generously loaning us the use of their petite chambre in the 10th, I will always be grateful. A copy of this guide will make its way to number 52 rue René Boulanger for future travellers who pass by. And to Rufus, who sought to discover all the city’s secrets and shared them with me over one great adventure. Many people offered their Paris suggestions, so thank you to mum and dad, Mikki Brammer, Kara Ciampi, Libby Davis, Susannah George, Zac Green, Paul Hodge, Amalie Jørgensen and Linsey Rendell. SOURCES Most listings in this guide were discovered (or completely lifted) from books, magazines and online sources. This is more than likely an incomplete list, but here goes: The Lonely Planet Guide; the Paris Wallpaper* City Guide; the GoGo Paris Guide; Gisele Scanlon’s Goddess Guide; map magazine; Notes by Naive’s guide to Paris; Bon Appetit’s city guide; The Guardian’s city guide to Paris; David Lebowitz’s Paris; Garance Doré’s blog; parisbymouth.com; lefooding.com; Gwyneth Paltrow’s GOOP (love Gwyneth); TimeOut Paris online; Gourmet Traveller; ELLE... I’m sure there were many other blogs and online travel diaries – I should probably just do a general shout out to the internet. Images are not credited (something that might be rectified in Volume III) but were collected from Pinterest, Flickr albums, Google image searches and travel blogs. ERRORS & OMISSIONS There will be some of those. FINAL TIPS Eat lots of cheese and bread and croissants and tarte au framboise and drink rosé with every meal. Try to look as un-touristy as possible.
OCTOBER 2012