Feast 2011

Behind the kitchen doors at the award-winning Pearl CafĂŠ A roundtable discussion of how to perfectly pair beer and food Local servers, barkeeps and managers list where they eat out

photos by Cathrine L. Walters 2

Missoula Independent

Feast 2011

THE

ULTIMATE WESTERN

MONTANA

DINING GUIDE

FEAST

A night on the line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Pairing beer and food . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Expert recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 The ins and outs of sausage making . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Restaurant & Bar Listings: Missoula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Bitterroot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Bars/Pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Cover photo: The Silk Road's Scarpiello-braised game hen with hot Italian sausage, spicy peppers, white wine and crispy yukon gold potatoes.

Street address: 317 S. Orange St. Missoula, MT 59801 Phone number: 406-543-6609 Web: missoulanews.com

Handmade truffles from Posh Chocolat.

Great Service!

Great Food! Great Fun!

Breakfast Served All Day! Call 542-2449 For To-Go Orders!

Best Milkshake 14 Years in a Row! Famous Homemade Tomato Soup!

Downtown Missoula 120 N. Higgins Ave Open 8am to 3pm 7 Days a Week!

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A night on the line Behind the kitchen doors at the award-winning Pearl Café

by Jason Cohen • photos by Chad Harder The Pearl Café is not “Hell’s Kitchen.”

“The silliest thing I’ve ever seen in my life,” chef and owner Pearl Cash says of the one and only time she stumbled onto Fox and Gordon Ramsay’s (un)reality TV show.

“All those people running around, throwing their hats in the air like they know what they are doing.”

At The Pearl, which has been voted the top restaurant by the Independent’s readers two years know what they’re doing. And running in the annual Best Missoula’s doyenne of fine dinof Missoula poll, the cooks ing isn’t prone to tantrums. “I 4 Missoula Independent Feast 2011

don’t yell,” says Cash.

“Every once in a while I might,” offers Ron Smith, who

heads up the kitchen line along with Walker Hunter. Smith has worked at Pearl for five years, after stints in Boston and his hometown of Eugene, Ore., while Hunter’s been there four.

Technically you’d call them Cash’s sous chefs, but in a kitchen with five cooks (and two dishwashers) there aren’t titles, just an informal station pecking order: sauté, grill, starches-and-veggies, apps and pantry (cold food, like salads and desserts).

On this October football Saturday, Hunter’s wife is on

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Ron Smith, foreground, heads up the Pearl’s kitchen line, along with Walker Hunter. It’s not unusual for owner Pearl Cash, behind Smith, to also don the chef’s whites.

the verge of giving birth, so Pearl herself, who usually works the front of the house on weekends, puts on the chef ’s whites. Or rather, pinks: a coat so faintly hued it might have been a white one that got washed with something red, plus pink socks, a pink terrycloth headband (she’ll be on the heat-intensive grill) and floral pants.

Smith, who is as burly as he is precise (“He does the most delicate brunoises,” Cash says of his knife skills), wears baggy black pants with wide white pinstripes and a green University of Oregon hat, atop a long goatee with wispy cheek stubble. When he isn’t on the job, the 33-year-old chef answers to “Ryan”—he got his Missoula Independent 6

“kitchen name” while working with a cook whose Southern accent drawled it into one

“Acid too.” This is tonight’s soup special, Southwestern Black Bean with Cilantro Sour

“When it gets really busy, all the sound leaks from the kitchen, like that slow-motion moment in an action movie... You hear the clatter of the dishes and the sound of proteins sizzling, but no human voices.” amorphous syllable.

As I walk in around 4 p.m., Smith confers with Ryan Lucas, the pantry chef, over a vat of creamy flecked gray liquid.

“Needs a little salt,” Smith says.

Feast 2011

Cream and Crispy Tortilla Strips. Lucas cuts and squeezes limes, then juliennes a stack of corn tortillas for the fryer. A former dishwasher, the 27-yearold Missoula native is just start-

ing to make soup, though he also says he isn’t really looking to rise further. “I know my limitations as a cook,” he says.

“And it’s kind of fun to make things look pretty. That’s pretty much what I do. There’s a lot of drizzling.”

At Pearl, getting ready for the weekend dinner service really starts on Thursday, when a morning prep cook works the first of two shifts getting all the building blocks together— stock, mirepoix (onions, carrots and celery), cuts of meat, dressings and all the basic sauces, which Smith will then reduce and finish with each order. Mise en place—literally, “everything in place,” is key.

Smith’s sauté station has nearly a dozen pour bottles stood up

in a tub over another tub of ice, among them oil, brandy, stock, tomato base for seafood stew and several purple liquids (port, huckleberry, pomegranate). Alongside that are smaller jars of finishing ingredients: minced shallots, dried cherries, huckleberries, green peppercorns, dijon mustard and butter.

Lots of butter.

Meanwhile, Cash already has four refrigerated drawers under the grill filled up with fish and lovely reddish-purple cuts of meat: lamb, filet mignons, flatiron steaks, bison tenderloins. She wraps some butcher string around a kitchen towel to use for oiling the grill, then moves on to toothpicking pancetta around quail breasts.

Down the line, tonight’s veggie cook, Bill Dunn, has already peeled and steamed a dozen-plus potatoes, which he’s now milling with cream, butter and horseradish. He’s also plugged in a portable induction burner, which will keep a stockpot full of salted water going throughout service for green vegetables. The very picture of a line cook in Williamsburg or Portland—septum ring, thick glasses, baseball cap, Chuck Taylors—Dunn (another former

dishwasher) also serves as expediter, calling out the entree orders and then telling Cash and Smith to “fire” after apps and salads have been served.

“Two bison, two trout, quail, flat!”

“Two lambs, one mer!” (or medium rare) “Two halis, bison, GPS” (“GPS” meaning the filet with green peppercorn sauce, as opposed to the bacon-wrapped filet).

When an order first comes in, Smith and Cash will pull the proteins, season them, and let them come close to room temperature. When the “fire” order comes, that starts a 20-minute clock—15 to do the cooking, and five to plate and serve.

“Is this gonna get started yet, or what?” Smith says around 6:30. There has been a little rush of people from the Griz game, but nothing to really get the kitchen humming. “I hate waiting. I just wanna do it. If you get going right away, you get your groove and tear that thing up.”

Soon enough, he’ll have eight or nine burners going: a few big pans to fry up trout, a few more oiled for searing quail or chicken, and several different Feast 2011

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In a kitchen with just five cooks there aren’t titles, just an informal station pecking order: sauté, grill, starches-and-veggies, apps and pantry.

sauces. “That thing should go up in a ball of flames here pretty soon,” Smith says, pouring port over some shallots, which, once the orange fire has burned off, he’ll then finish with butter. Lots of butter.

He’s also got two pans of huckleberry-zinfandel sauce reducing for the bison tenderloin, which will be completed with whole huckleberries. At one point, a customer asks for extra. “I told them, I don’t go in the back and scoop out a big vat of it,” the waiter gingerly tells Smith, but he is able to pour off a little from a pan that is already going.

Even as they have a dozen orders working, Cash and 8

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Smith also assemble plates, laying down a porcini aioli underneath the bison, or jerry-rigging halibut just-so over a squash puree. Everybody knows their job, and you can see the advantage of having certain dishes that are never taken off the menu: Given the same ingredients and portion size, Cash nails every piece of beef without a clock or temperature. “I look at them—I’m a steak psychologist,” Cash says, though she also uses tongs to give a touch-test.

When it gets really busy, all the sound leaks from the kitchen, like that slow-motion moment in an action movie when the hero saves his wife or Feast 2011

kid. You hear the clatter of the dishes and the sound of proteins sizzling, but no human voices. Still, nobody’s in “the weeds” on this night. The only real drama is between the kitchen and the front of house, but it’s both typical (“Nobody in the kitchen ever gets yelled at,” says Lucas. “Just the wait staff.”) and minor: a few order mistakes and miscommunications. “This is fucked,” Smith mutters when he has to take two poussins back into the walk-in.

At 8 p.m., it’s slow enough for Dunn to take a smoke break.

“You’ve got two stews coming up in four minutes,” he tells Smith. At 8:10 p.m., the burners

are all empty, and Cash and Lucas sing along to Warren Zevon’s “Poor Poor Pitiful Me,” which is straining to be heard out of a little boom box by the dish pit. Last seating takes place at 9, but even then the kitchen’s work is hardly over: The evening’s final reservation is a huge party of fishermen who brought in their own case of wine. Smith studies the footlong ticket, and I challenge him to recite it from memory. “Nine bisons, GPS, two grilled salmon, two lambs but we only have one, and a flatiron,” he says.

Piece of cake. One disappointed lamb-eater aside, even Gordon Ramsay would find little to yell about tonight.

DISH

BUTTERFLY HERBS

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over Bagels On Broadway 223 W. Broadway 728-8900 Our bagels are made from scratch every day – over 20 varieties. You’ll get a bagel with the traditional hard crust and flavor that nobody can copy. Our bagels contain no fat, preservatives, or cholesterol. We have many sandwiches, homemade spreads, soups, salads, and sweets, as well as espressos and smoothies. Try a bagel for a healthy alternative any time of the day. $-$$

THE ESSENCE OF MISSOULA

COFFEE TEAS HERBS SPICES UNUSUAL GIFTS

COFFEE HOUSE ESPRESSO ICE CREAM SANDWICHES AND SOUPS

Anthony Cesare

232 NORTH HIGGINS AVENUE DOWNTOWN MISSOULA 728-8780 Since 1972

Biga Pizza 241 W. Main St. 728-2579 Biga Pizza offers a modern downtown dining environment combined with traditional brick-oven pizza, calzone, salads, sandwiches, specials and desserts. All dough is made using a "biga" (pronounced bee-ga), which is a time-honored Italian method of bread making. Biga Pizza uses local products and the freshest produce as well as artisan meats and cheeses. Featuring seasonal menus. Lunch & dinner. Beer & wine. Mon-Sat. $-$$ Bitterroot Flower Shop 811 S. Higgins Ave. 721-1482 Welcome to the Bitterroot Flower Shop, recognized as one of America's finest full-service florists. We pride ourselves on providing the freshest flowers, plants and ideas in our industry. Whether it be centerpieces, gifts, or floral arrangements, count on us to make it beautiful!

Black Cat Bake Shop 2000 W. Broadway 542-9043 Come try Missoula's newest coffeehouse & bakery. Try our signature buttery morning buns, scones, cinnamon rolls, huckleberry coffee cake and organic artisan breads.

We also offer a variety of cakes, French pastries, & a full coffee menu.

(Banquet room available for morning meetings.) Open Tues -Fri 6:30am 5:30pm & Saturday 8am-2pm $-$$ Bravo! Catering 224 N. Higgins Ave. 541-4900 Bravo! Catering is a full-service, fully mobile catering company servicing Northwest Montana and beyond.

Chef/Owner Ryan Boehme brings 21 years of restaurant experience to the world of catering. Chef Ryan and his staff will work with you to bring you the most creative, seasonal and regional dishes in Montana. $$-$$$ Butterfly Herbs 232 N. Higgins 728-8780 Celebrating 38 years of great coffees and teas. Truly the “essence of Missoula.” We offer fresh coffees, teas (Evening in Missoula), bulk spices & botanicals, fine toiletries and gifts. Our cafe features homemade soups, fresh salads and coffee ice cream specialties. In the heart of historic downtown, we are Missoula’s first and favorite Espresso Bar. Open 7 days. $

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DISH Ciao Mambo 541 S. Higgins Ave. 543-0377 ciaomambo.com Ciao Mambo, at the end of the Hip Strip on 4th and Higgins, serves up fresh, classic, immigrant-style Italian food seven days a week. Terrific service and an extensive domestic and Italian wine list. Take out service available. $-$$

Cold Stone Creamery 3275 N. Reserve St, Suite F 549-5595 coldstonecreamery.com Cold Stone Creamery, the ultimate ice cream experience! Our smooth and creamy ice cream is made fresh daily using our secret recipe. Come in for our weekday specials. Get $5 off ice cream cakes with your business card. Treat yourself to a 10-minute vacation at Cold Stone Creamery. $-$$

Doc's Sandwich Shop 214 N Higgins and in the University Center 542-7414 docsgourmet.com Locally owned and operated for over 20 years, Doc's is a true Missoula original. Whether you're heading out for a power lunch, meeting friends or family or just grabbing a quick takeout, Doc's is always available.

Catering is also offered for all menu items. Delivery service within a 3-mile radius. $-$$

Double Front Chicken 122 W. Alder 543-6264 Number of years ago Double Front was built: 101. Number of years they’ve been cooking chicken: 75. Number of years in the Herndon family: 49. Always getting that perfect chicken dinner: timeless. Come find out why we rule the roost! Always the best, Double Front Chicken. $$-$$$

El Cazador 101 S. Higgins Ave. 728-3657 Missoula Independent readers’ choice for Best Mexican Restaurant. Come taste Alfredo's original recipes for authentic Mexican food where we cook with love. From seafood to carne asada, enjoy dinner or stop by for our daily lunch specials. We are a locally owned Mexican family restaurant, and we want to make your visit with us one to remember. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$

Edible Medical, LLC 2528 Stockyard Rd, Suite F1 830-3371 Edible Medical specializes in medicinal gourmet cookies & candies. We also offer medicine in the traditional form with many popular strains available. Our facility is located in a low-traffic area to help protect your privacy. Have questions? Call today. Edible Medical - The Healthier Choice. $-$$

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over 10

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DISH Family Dental Group Southgate Mall, 2901 Brooks St. 541-2886 familydentalgroup.net Just like our community has a lot of great restaurants, Missoula has a lot of great clinical dentists. The best way to find a dentist is to ask friends or family if they have a dentist they like. If you really like your dentist as a person, you are probably going to get a lot more out of your experience as patient. Find yourself a great dentist and then…chew on!

Famous Dave's 2915 N. Reserve St. 541-7427 famousdaves.com Stop in, or grab a load to go! Either way you'll enjoy the most succulent meats, savory seasonings and lip-smackin’ sauces around.

Twenty-five years of tastin’ and cookin’ make Dave’s 'Que the best ever.

Dave's ribs are classic, St. Louis-style spareribs, hickory smoked to perfection, and Dave's award-winning Rich & Sassy sauce is made from a secret recipe – even his mother doesn't know it! Happy Hour Sun-Thur 8pm-close: $2 pints, $4 appetizers. Free wi-fi. $-$$ Florence Coffee Co. 2205 Brooks St. Montana’s staple for freshly roasted coffee and Real Huckleberry Smoothies started in Florence nine years ago. We also have two locations in Helena and two in Butte, so stop by any of our nine locations for the best coffee and smoothies in Montana. $-$$ Food For Thought 540 Daly 721-6033 thinkfft.com Missoula's Original Coffehouse/Café located across from the U of M campus. Serving breakfast and lunch 7 days a week.

Also serving cold sandwiches, soups, salads, with baked goods and espresso bar ‘til close. HUGE Portions and the Best BREAKFAST in town. M-TH 7am-8pm; Fri 7am-4pm; Sat 8am-4pm; Sun 8am-8pm. (Often we close at 3pm when school is not in session.) $-$$ Freemo's Pizza 1801 Brooks St. 406-728-9537 freemospizza.com Missoula's only 7-day-a-week Pizza Buffet - open 11am-9 pm. Featuring our famous Bobby cheese bread, amazing traditional pizzas, mild to wild specialty pizzas, decadent dessert pizzas, fresh pasta, and an excellent salad bar loaded with all the fixings, all for ONLY $4.99. Freemo's also offers bottomless fountain drinks as well as a tasty selection of beers. In addition to the food and beverages, Freemo's Pizza has an arcade full of games that are fun for kids and adults alike. All of Freemo's Pizzas are also available to go for only $5!! Come on down to Freemo's and let us make you a pizza just the way you want it! $ Good Food Store 1600 South 3rd W. 541-FOOD goodfoodstore.com Our deli features all natural made-to-order sandwiches, soup & salad bar, olive & antipasto bar, fresh deli salads, hot entrees, rotisserie-roasted cage-free chickens, fresh juice, smoothies, organic espresso and dessert. Enjoy your meal in our spacious seating area or at an outdoor table. Open every day 7am-10pm $-$$

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over 12

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Feast 2011

DISH Green Light Apparel & Home Décor Corner Broadway & Higgins 541-0080 Newly introduced to the home chef, “ManPans,” truly ingenious in design and sustainable manufacturing. Heating efficiency, non-toxic coating and durability provide high-quality performance without compromising taste. “ManPans” exclusively at The Green Light Apparel & Home Décor on the corner of Higgins & Broadway, the heart of downtown Missoula.

Import Market 201 W. Broadway 728-2175 theimportmarket.com We carry wicker furniture, baskets and the coolest dishes on Earth. We also carry a HUGE selection of rugs, posters, cards, incense and so much more!

We even have many items that are still made right here in the U.S., including our tin signs and, of course, the Fiesta.

Enjoy our lunch & dinner menus

Iza Asian Restaurant 529 S. Higgins 830-3237 izarestaurant.com All our menu items are made from scratch, featuring dishes from Thailand, Japan, Indonesia, Korea, Nepal and Malaysia. Extensive tea menu and Missoula's original bubble teas. Beer, wine and sake available.

Join us in our Asian-themed dining room for a wonderful IZA experience! Jazz Wednesdays starting at 7pm. Open Mon-Fri: Lunch 11:30-2:30pm, Happy Hour 3-5pm, Dinner 5pm-close. Sat: dinner 5pm-close. $-$$

127 W. Alder 721-8158

Jakers 3515 Brooks St. 721-1312 jakers.com Every occasion is a celebration at Jakers! Enjoy our two-for-one Happy Hour throughout the week in a fun, casual atmosphere. Hungry? Try our hand-cut steaks, small plate menu and our vegetarian & gluten-free entrees. Call us for reservations or takeout. $$-$$$ Jimmy John's 420 N. Higgins Ave. 542-1100 jimmyjohns.com Jimmy John's - America's Favorite Sandwich Delivery Guys! Unlike any other sub shop, Jimmy John’s is all about the freshest ingredients and fastest service.

Freaky Fast, Freaky Good - that's Jimmy John's. Order online, call for delivery or visit us on Higgins. $-$$ Liquid Planet 223 N. Higgins Ave. 541-4541 From Latté to Lassî, Water to Wine, Tea Cup to Tea Pot, Liquid Planet has the best beverage offerings this side of Neptune – with a special focus on local, all-natural and sustainable products. Quick and delicious breakfast and lunch is made fresh daily – from breakfast burritos, bagels and pastries to wraps, salads, and soups. Peruse our retail selection of over 1,000 different wines, 400 beers & sodas, 150 teas and a myriad of coffees from all over the world. Open 7:45am-10pm daily. $-$$ JJ UNWICH ®

Lolo Peak Winery & Chapman Homebrew 2506 Mount Ave. 549-1111 Chapman Homebrew - your local source for equipment, supplies and information for the home brewer and wine maker, soda pop, cheese making, liquors and specialty glass bottles. It’s easy, enjoyable, economical and ecological to make it for yourself to match your personal taste!

We can help you do it right.

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DISH MacKenzie River Pizza Co. 137 Front St: 721-0077; 5210 Grant Creek Rd: 721-0099 mackenzieriverpizza.com Spectacular gourmet pizzas on delicious sourdough, natural grain or thin crusts. Additional flavorful and fresh menu choices include made-to-order pasta dishes, huge salads, signature chicken chili, Montana-sized sandwiches and tasty panini. Choose from a variety of microbrews and fine wines. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $-$$ Missoula Club 139 W. Main St. 728-3740 A Missoula institution! You haven't had a burger until you've had a "Mo Burger.” Burgers come in 3 sizes: single, double and Griz, and will certainly accommodate any appetite. These burgers are renowned in Missoula for being delicious and inexpensive. Grab a triple stack Griz burger for under $7. Voted Best Burger by Missoula Independent readers! $-$$ Missoula Winery and Event Center 5646 W. Harrier 830-3296 missoulawinery.com Tasting room is open! Sip a glass of wine and have some food while listening to live music every Friday night. Open 27pm every day, except closed on Wednesdays. Check web site for winter hours. Book your next event at the Missoula Winery for a fun and beautiful event with catering options available Bring your empty wine bottles and we will recycle them for you!

The Mustard Seed Asian Café Southgate Mall, Paxson St. Entrance 542-7333 Contemporary Asian Cuisine served in our all-new bistro atmosphere. Original recipes and fresh ingredients combined from Japanese, Chinese, Polynesian, and Southeast Asian influences to appeal to American palates. Full menu available in our non-smoking bar. Fresh daily desserts, microbrews, fine wines & signature drinks. Takeout & delivery available. $$-$$$ The Osher Lifelong Learning Institute 32 Campus Dr, U of M 243-2905 umt.edu/molli The Osher Lifelong Learning Institute at the University of Montana (affectionately known as MOLLI) offers programs that promote the lifelong learning and personal growth of +50 individuals through a diverse collection of non-credit, short courses open to individuals who are curious and love to learn. The winter term, Jan. 20-Feb. 25, 2011, will feature a course with Ray Risho, Master Chef!

Pearl Café & Bakery 231 E. Front St. 541-0231 pearlcafe.us Country-French specialties, bison, elk, trout, fresh fish daily, delicious salads and appetizers. Breads and desserts baked in-house. $30 three-course bistro menu with wine Tuesday - Thursday nights, November through March. Extensive wine list, 18 wines by the glass, local beers on draft. Reservations recommended for the warm and inviting dining areas. Go to our website to check out nightly specials and bistro menus, make reservations or buy gift certificates. Open Mon-Sat at 5 pm. $$-$$$

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over 14

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Feast 2011

DISH Pita Pit 130 N. Higgins Ave. 541-PITA (7482) pitapitusa.com Fresh Thinking, Healthy Eating. Enjoy a pita rolled just for you. Hot meat and cool fresh veggies topped with your favorite sauce. Try our Chicken Caesar, Gyro, Philly Steak, Breakfast Pita, or Vegetarian Falafel to name just a few. For your convenience we are open until 3am 7 nights a week. Call if you need us to deliver! $-$$

Quiznos & Hot Stuff Pizza 12011 HWY 93 S, Lolo 273-4954 Quiznos and Hot Stuff Pizza located in Lolo Super Stop. Stop by for our daily lunch specials like 2 sandwiches for $5. Mmmmm...daily and nightly pizza specials. For your sweet tooth, we serve fresh-baked cinnobabies, scones, & cookies. Food court open daily 5:30am-9pm. Convenience store is open 24 hours. We are located at the corner of HWY 93 and HWY 12. $-$$

Red Robin 2901 Brooks St. 406.830.3170 redrobin.com The other side of Red Robin: Try our Ensenada Chicken Platter™, Apple Harvest Chicken Salad or Caesar’s Chicken Wrap. We’ve got salads, wraps and entrees to go along with our more than two dozen award-winning gourmet burgers. Our gourmet burgers are served with bottomless steak fries! $$-$$$

Staggering Ox 1220 SW Higgins 542-2206 staggeringox.com Home of the famous Clubfoot Sandwich - unique, portable, delicious! We serve fantastic sandwiches on fresh-baked bread.

Call in your order and pick it up on your way to play. $-$$

Superior Meats 4212 Mullan Road E, Superior 406-822-4702 Let Superior Meats turn your wild game into delightful sausages of all varieties. Also available: premium quality smoked ham, turkey, & bacon, whole BBQ hogs, and award-winning beef & buffalo jerky.

Sushi Hana – Not Just Sushi!

Corner of Pine & Higgins 549-7979 Sushi Hana Downtown – offering a new idea for your dining experience. Meat, poultry, vegetables and grain are a large part of Japanese cuisine. We also love fried comfort food, too. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. $$–$$$

Taco Del Sol 422 N. Higgins 327-8929 Home of the Famous Fish Taco. Stop in when you're in the neighborhood.

We'll do our best to treat you right! Crowned Missoula's best lunch for under $6. Mon-Sat. 11-10 Sun. 12-9. $-$$

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DISH Taco Sano 115 1/2 S. 4th St. W. (Next to Holiday Store on Hip Strip) 541-7570 tacosano.net Once you find us you'll keep coming back. Breakfast burritos served all day.

Quesadillas, burritos and tacos. Let us dress up your food with our unique selection of toppings, salsas, and sauces. Open 10am-9am 7 days a week.

We deliver! $-$$

Featuring: DirecTV Sports Pack NFL Sunday Ticket ESPN Game Plan Mega March Madness

MLB Extra Innings NBA League Pass ESPN Full Court NHL Center Ice

Hi-Definition Cable & Satellite

Missoula's Sports Bar Since 1952 Smoke Free • Nine Flat Screen TVs

217 Ryman St * 728-9881

Ten Spoon Vineyard + Winery 4175 Rattlesnake Dr. 549-8703 tenspoon.com Award-winning Made in Montana organic wines – no added sulfites. Tasting hours: Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, 5pm-9pm. Soak in the harvest sunshine with a view of the vineyard, or cozy up with a glass of wine inside the winery. Wine sold by the flight or glass. Bottles sold to take home or to ship to friends and relatives. $$

Uptown Diner 120 N. Higgins 542-2449 Step into the past at this ’50-style downtown diner.

Breakfast is served all day. Daily lunch specials. All soups, including our famous tomato soup, are made from scratch. Voted best milkshakes in Missoula for 14 straight years. Great food, great service, great fun!! Monday - Sunday 8am-3pm $-$$

Montana's Largest Football Helmet Collection

BITTERROOT Bitter Root Brewing 101 Marcus St, Hamilton 363-7468 bitterrootbrewing.com Bitter Root Brewery is open 7 days a week serving delicious microbrews and tasty handcrafted food. Live music EVERY Thursday and Saturday from 6-8:30pm. Check our website for upcoming events, menus, and other info to help you "Get Local.” $$-$$$ Burger Shack 205 Main St, Stevensville 777-2370 Come take a bite out of our _-pound big & beefy burgers.

The only burger joint in Missoula and the Bitterroot serving 100% Certified Angus Beef, hand-pattied, charbroiled and made to order. We have over a dozen mouth-watering specialty burgers to choose from, like the Inside Out, stuffed with creamy gorgonzola cheese and fresh chopped bacon. Or the Philly Cheesesteak made with 100% Certified Angus top sirloin - touted to be the best outside of Philly! It's not just a burger, it's a destination. Monday - Saturday, 11:00am to 8:00pm. Beer & wine. $-$$ Caffé Firenze 281 Rodeo Dr, Florence 273-2923 caffefirenze.com, Caffé Firenze in Florence, a destination unlike any other…

Bitterroot Chamber’s 2009 Business of the Year! Offering a warm, inviting atmosphere and personalized service, seven days a week. Featuring hearty

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over 16

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DISH breakfasts, aromatic coffee & espresso drinks, sandwiches, pasta, salads, house-made soups, Italian-inspired dinners, decadent desserts and a wonderful assortment of spirits. Also, count on Caffé Firenze Catering to ensure a successful and worry-free event. $$-$$$ Cowboy Troy's Restaurant, Saloon and Casino 2359 US Hwy 93 N, Victor 642-3380 cowboytroys.com Voted Bitterroot's Best Cowboy Bar! Wood-fired brick oven pizzas, locally grown Ayres' Angus burgers, 9 varieties of chicken wings. Wing Wednesdays w/ 60¢ Wings & $1 PBR's. Karaoke every Thursday & Saturday at 8pm. Live music Fridays - no cover. Dine in, takeout & catering. 11am-1:30am (food ‘til10pm). 7 Days A Week. Your Hometown Bar! $-$$ The Edge Restaurant 140 Bitterroot Plaza Drive, Hamilton • 375-0007 A Hamilton tradition for more than 12 years. The Edge Restaurant offers everything you want in a great dining experience. Enjoy fireside dining with an incredible view of the Bitterroot Mountains. From sizzling steaks to succulent seafood, there’s a wide variety of tantalizing entrees served in a casual, comfortable atmosphere. Enjoy handcrafted cocktails and a large selection of your favorite wine. Open 7 days a week from 8:30am to 11:00pm in Hamilton. $$-$$$ River Rising Bakery 337 Main St, Hamilton 363-4552 Hamilton's newest bakery, deli, and espresso bar. Serving all-butter pastries, delicious and nutritious muffins, cream scones and delectable desserts. Or choose from our selection of homemade soups, salads, and sandwiches found nowhere else. Open 6:30am-5:30pm MondayFriday, 8:00am-4:00pm Saturday, 8:00am-2:00pm Sunday. Weekday local business lunch delivery available 9:00am-1:00pm. $-$$ The Signal Grill 131 W. Main St, Hamilton 375-9099 The Signal Grill since 1898. Where the chefs are talented and the wait staff attentive. Where the fish & chips are as good as in England. Where the Baja tacos take you to a small village in Mexico. Where the steaks are char-grilled to perfection. The eclectic menu includes Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican & Indian. You want comfort food?... try out Chicken Fried Steak, or our Butte Montana Dinosaur "Short" Rib. Open 7 days a week. M-F 11am 'til 9pm; Sat & Sun breakfast & lunch 10am until 2pm, dinner 3pm 'til close.

Spice of Life 163 S 2nd St, Hamilton 363-4433 Spice of Life welcomes you to the Bitterroot’s best locavore dining experience. Serving up fresh and fun food in a conscientious manner. For lunch try one of our hand made burgers from Lolo Locker or one of our fabulous fresh salads. Dinner selections include natural beef which contains no growth hormones or antibiotics ever, sustainable seafood selections and pasta dishes made with Montana wheat from Pasta Montana. Quench your thirst with beer from right here in Hamilton or try one of our reasonably priced yet fantastic wine selections. Children’s menu available. No reservations…come as you are to Spice of Life! Lunch: Mon - Fri 11:00-2:00; Dinner: Wed - Sat 5:009:00. $$-$$$

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The author, left, organized a roundtable to discuss the state of food and beer pairing in western Montana, including representatives from Big Sky Brewing, Bitter Root Brewing and Blacksmith Brewing.

Matchmakers Pairing beer and food goes beyond nachos and a light beer

by Tim Akimoff • photos by Chad Harder Matt Long, head brewmaster at Big Sky Brewing, told me about the menu at a beer and food pairing he attended recently in the Midwest. Brewers and chefs paired Surly Brewing Co.’s Jesus Juice, a mead beer, with a crucified squab, which is a roasted pigeon on a wooden cross with a crown of thorns made of rosemary.

“I just think they were trying too hard,” Long said.

But trying too hard characterizes so much of what has come to symbolize the marriage of 18

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food and beer—the brewer’s dinner.

When I started a beer enthusiast blog as a chronicle of all that was craft-beer related in Montana, one of the frequent questions I was asked had to do with matching beer and food. To answer this question, I pulled together two of my favorite people, Long from Big Sky and Laurence Coffman, executive chef at Blue Canyon.

Big Sky Blue Canyon beer dinners were born in the winter of 2008. A small crowd gathered around dishes like roast bison in a Moose Drool glaze and stout beer floats.

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A month before the next dinner, I met Long and Coffman in the dining room at Blue Canyon. We took notes and talked about flavors present in the beers.

Coffman left us after every new beer to find similar flavors in the pantries and refrigerators of his kitchen, returning with small dishes to taste with each beer. It was as symbiotic as I’d ever seen beer and food up until that point.

The unlimited combinations in beer and food was held in check only by our imaginations. Groups of 40 people packed

Bitter Root Brewing supplied a full lineup of beers, including Sawtooth Ale, Bitter Root IPA, Black IPA, Imperial Red, Belgian Tripel, Porter, Nut Brown and Barley Wine.

the Bison Room at Blue Canyon, including other brewers and chefs eager to figure out how to make beer dinners a success.

Recently I invited a group of some of my favorite foodies and brewers for a final feast of reflection and prediction. Call it a

look at where we came from, where we are and where we are going—in terms of beer and food.

Bitter Root Brewery head chef Daniel Lee was tasked with finding the perfect conversation foods in the harvests of local

ranches and farms. Our crowd consisted of Long, Bitter Root brewers Jake Talbot and Tony Wickham, Mike Howard of Blacksmith Brewing in Stevensville and Bitter Root Brewery manager Jason Goeltz and owner Tim Bozik. Will Moss of the Ravalli

;

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Inspired Elegance For Every Occasion

Chef Ryan Boehme 541.4900 • 224 N. Higgins bravocatering.msla@gmail.com www.bravocatering.net 20

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The last dish featured a malted barley pana cotta with huckleberry jam and pistachio butter, along with a dry hopped ganache.

Republic showed up along with coffee experts Jon Lewis and Grant Rattray of Missoula and London respectively.

The idea was to generate conversation around a number of dishes featuring simple flavors in local foods, each paired with two different beers to create more interaction.

The conversation quickly morphed into seasonality as plates of Willoughby Farms goat cheese with an aromatic tomato-orange jam with pine nut-rosemary butter and fennel brittle were set before us. To drink, we served a Bitter Root IPA and Sawtooth Ale. This is the early interpretation, the point at which you let the flavors mingle and marry. The

food does its thing and the beer does its thing. Sometimes the beer highlights the food, as in the case of the citrus notes from the hops in the IPA, making the orange zest in the tomato-orange jam pop like the first taste of a fresh Christmas tangerine. We determined that this is how beer and food has been done.

Sometimes the food modifies the beer like the perfect adjective to its noun, or like licorice-braised pork belly from local meat provider “Bosco” at Cherry Apple Farm in a Sleeping Child Farms acorn squash and white chocolate puree, and surrounded by vanilla-glazed apples picked from a Hamilton tree. We matched it with an Imperial Red and a Belgian Tripel.

A roundup of beer and food in Montana

by Tim Akimoff I moved to Montana in the summer of 2007 to find one of the wildest craft beer scenes I had ever encountered. I was shocked to walk into a tap room and find a wall of beers and no food. This concept is illegal in Oregon, where I moved from. State law stipulates you have to serve food if alcohol is consumed on premise.

This results from a bizarre mix of antiquated state alcohol laws and brewer preferences, and it can be difficult to navigate.

A comprehensive list of breweries with food available or where food is served is almost impossible to compile in Montana. Some breweries are in the process of building kitchens for beer and food tastings, while others are building full restaurants and still others offer peanuts or popcorn and stick to brewing really great beer.

Here is a look at what’s going on now.

Missoula’s Bayern Brewing has bratwurst and sauerkraut available on Friday afternoons in the summer and sausage snacks in the winter. The simple flavors of good German-style beers with spiced sausages were as close to beer and food perfection as I can think of.

You’ll find simple things like

bison bratwurst available on summer afternoons at the Kettlehouse Brewing Company and peanuts in a cup at the Myrtle Street brewery year-round.

Look around a little bit, and you’ll discover places like Tamarack Brewing Company in Lakeside. Pub-style food and good beers on the shores of Flathead Lake are hard to beat, and an upcoming Missoula restaurant will feature Tamarack beers downtown in just a few months. On the opposite shore you’ll find madeto-order pizzas at Flathead Lake Brewing Company, which is also opening a Missoula location.

Just about any brewery in the state will let you bring in outside food, and places like Blacksmith Brewing Company in Stevensville and Glacier Brewing Company in Polson have delivery deals with local restaurants allowing you to order your choice of foods delivered right to your table while you enjoy your beer.

Montana Brewing Company in Billings offers a full menu of pub-style food, while Bitter Root Brewery in Hamilton serves up lunches and dinners of beerinspired dishes. Lewis and Clark Brewing Company in Helena also offers a full eatery with pub fare.

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The group agrees the best local pairings currently involve fresh local foods and fresh local beer playing off each other.

NOW Serving beer & wine

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The richness of this dish could only be exceeded by the opulence of the French court in the 18th century. But the accessibility of the fresh local flavors melding with the boldness of Imperial Red, and marrying subtly with the earthy spiciness of the Belgian yeast, tasted like fall, begetting a conversation about the arrival of beer as a suitable and even preferred meal beverage over wine. We agree that this is where we are: fresh local foods and fresh local beer playing off each other like acrobats in Cirque du Soleil.

Bitter Root owner Tim Bozik mentioned the idea of designing foods from the beer.

“What about designing beers to go with the food?” Dan Lee replied.

This caused a pause as the brewers and foodies pondered the question over a dish of Lifeline sharp cheddar cheese with a Cranberry Walla Walla and green-chili chutney with a Port reduction and basil oil. We poured the Porter and the Nut Brown to go with it.

“I have to take like 20 steps toward the beer,” Lee said. “Why can’t the beer come to me?”

We agree this is what the future might look like: a future where the beer and food are

not so much complementary but interwoven.

You can smell the last dish before it arrives in front of us. A malted barley pana cotta with huckleberry jam and pistachio butter. Alongside is a dry hopped ganache. Combining the bittersweetness of chocolate and the decadence of cream with an addition of bittering hops creates a chocolate treat unlike anything I’ve had before. The bitterness in hops is an acquired taste, as is the bitterness in chocolate.

Together and paired with a Black IPA and a 2008 Barley Wine, one clearly sees the future of beer and food. Beer is the sum of its parts and food can contain the sum of beer in its parts creating a universe of flavor combinations. The barley pana cotta is not cloyingly or richly sweet. Like its shared heritage with beer, it presents a smooth, biscuity taste and is almost embraced by the malt in the aged Barley Wine, while the hoppy ganache provides the backdrop to the portrait.

Food is a pleasure and a necessity. Beer is a conversation. Montana brewers and chefs and craft beer lovers are pushing the conversation into new realms and the possibilities are endless.

BARS/PUBS Al & Vic's 119 W. Alder 728-4804 A Missoula institution for over 70 years, Al & Vic's keeps the tradition and its unique spirit intact for local residents. Buckets of PBR, a wailing juke box and free pool on Sundays are just a few amenities that keep this bar a local favorite since 1936. $ Fred’s Lounge 8056 HW 10 W. 728-9763 fredslounge.com Fred’s Lounge is Missoula’s original and locally owned exotic dance club where the management and friendly staff want customers to have a relaxing and enjoyable experience when they visit. Plus, liquor store and ATM for your convenience. We are open every day except Christmas.

Grizzly Liquor 110 W Spruce St. 549-7723 grizzlyliquor.com Missoula's Tailgate Headquarters. We carry all the spirits and accessories to make your tailgate party a success! Largest selection in Montana. Special baskets for any occasion: events, parties, promotions, benefits, weddings, birthdays, anniver-

saries, employee thank you's and more… Create your own theme and we can create the right basket for your occasion. Open M-F 9-6:30, Sat 9-6.

Harry David's 2700 Paxson Plaza, Suite H 830-3277 harrydavidsbar.com Entertainment 7 Nights a week: Karaoke Sunday and Monday. Hip Hop Tuesdays. WTF Wednesdays, with DJ Aaron Traylor. Live Band Karaoke Thursdays. Great bands to dance to Friday & Saturday Nights.

Live poker. NFL & NHL Tickets.

Featuring The Wild Moose Grill serving Texas Mesquite Smoked BBQ seven days a week. $-$$ Iron Horse Brew Pub 501 N. Higgins 728-8866 ironhorsebrew pub.com We're the perfect place for lunch, appetizers, or dinner. Enjoy nightly specials, our fantastic beverage selection and friendly, attentive service.

No matter what you are looking for, we'll give you something to smile about! $-$$

James Bar 127 W. Alder 721-8158 An urban rock feel is what James Bar is all about. Enjoy sipping wine or a specialty cocktail by the fireplace in plush booth seating while rock from every generation plays in the background. It's the escape you're looking for.

The menu is designed with sharing in mind and check out our Missoula take on the urban slider (little burger). $-$$ Mullan Station Bar & Casino 3420 Mullan Rd. 721-5844 mullanstation.com Come enjoy lunch and dinner 7 days a week, and breakfast on the weekends at Missoula’s highest-paying casino. Let us prepare the best smoked ribs in town, homemade spaghetti, perfectly grilled burgers and much more while you watch the game in HD. Then wash it down with one of 15 beers out of the coldest tap in town! $-$$ The Old Post 103 W. Spruce 721-7399 oldpostpub.com The Old Post offers outstanding food, tempting beer and spirits, excellent serv-

ice, and an upbeat atmosphere.

Weeknight Happy Hour specials include 25¢ chicken wings and $2.75 Big Sky drafts! Free live music almost every Thursday and Friday night.

Best brunch in town is served on Sat. & Sun., 9am-3pm. Hours: 11am-2 am M F, and 9am-2 am S and S. $-$$$ The Press Box 835 E. Broadway 721-1212 pressboxsportsbar.com Enjoy our breakfast special, only $2.75, Monday through Friday, 7am-noon. Also Sunday night halfprice pizza special! We offer a full menu: breakfast, lunch, dinner, appetizers, and more! 21 beers on tap.

Continually voted best sports bar in Missoula. Enjoy any game, any time on 35 HDTVs at The Press Box. $-$$$ Red's Bar 217 Ryman St. 728-9881 Missoula’s Sports Bar since 1952, Red’s is the perfect place to watch the game on one of our nine flat-screen TVs. Featuring ESPN GamePlan, NFL Sunday Ticket, MLB Extra Innings, NBA League Pass, Mega March Madness, ESPN Full Court, and NHL Center Ice, Red’s is any sports fan’s dream!

YOUR DOWNTOWN SANDWICHES CONNECTION SOUPS SALADS FOR FAMILY, ESPRESSO GOOD FRIENDS, FREE WIFI AND GOOD FOOD !

728-8900 • 223 W. BROADWAY • OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Feast 2011

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Fruit-topped pancakes at Ruby’s Café.

Expert recommendations Those who work in the industry tell us when and where to eat and drink in Missoula

by Independent staff • photos by Chad Harder Whenever you hit a new restaurant and aren’t sure what to order, the safest bet is to simply ask your server for a little help. The resulting list of what’s most popular, fresh, or what that person goes back to time and again comes with more than 24

Missoula Independent

a little bit of promise. After all, who knows the menu better than one of the people who eat there most often?

We decided to extend this way of thinking to the larger Missoula community. Our premise: Ask the folks who work the Feast 2011

grill, serve the beers and brew the coffee to tell us where they prefer to eat a burger, sip a cocktail or down an Americano. Our format: We’d offer up a few specific scenarios to find out where they go, what they order, what they drink and how much,

roughly, they spend. Our only rule: No naming their own place of employment. Naturally, the responses varied—a testament to different tastes, as well as Missoula’s selection of local restaurants. A sampling of those responses appears below.

Matcha Green Tea at Iza.

Weekday Lunch Ari LeVaux Food columnist, Missoula Independent www.flashinthepan.net Where are you going: Iza What are you ordering: Korean Bulgogi Beef What are you drinking: Matcha Green Tea How much are you spending: Between $15 and $20 LeVaux calls Iza’s bulgogi the best he’s ever had—“and I’ve had plenty,” he says. “The fact that it’s local organic beef helps a lot.”

Iza, located at 529 S. Higgins Avenue, is among the newest additions to the Hip Strip. The

bulgogi beef ($10) is cooked with garlic, onion, sesame and spicy chili paste, and comes in a bento box with white or brown rice, salad, vegetable side and fruit.

The Matcha Green Tea comes regular (steamed and pan-fried tea leaves with vegetal notes and a moderate caffeine level) or as a bubble tea ($4.25 or $4, respectively). The bubble tea includes tapioca pearls made in-house from scratch.

Special Occasion Cheryl Bregen Owner, Tagliare Delicatessen 1433 S. Higgins Avenue Where are you going: Red Bird Wine Bar Feast 2011

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The Caramelized Goat pizza at Biga Pizza.

What are you ordering: Four or five appetizers, usually with a preference for the specials– but I always order the pork lettuce wraps What are you drinking: Nice dry red wine How much are you spending: $150 The Red Bird Wine Bar is located next to the Red Bird Restaurant inside the historic Florence Building at 111 N. Higgins Avenue. The marinated pork lettuce wraps ($10) are served with peanuts, fresh mint 26 Missoula Independent

and plum sauce. Other appetizers include a duck and pear pate with walnuts, toast points and Roquefort ($10) and jumbo lump crab cakes served with traditional remoulade and a lemon-scented fennel-herb salad ($12). Petit entrees include grilled lamb kabobs and merguez sausage served with potato rosti, caramelized carrots and lavender mustard ($17), and southwestern seared scallops cornmeal crusted with black beans, charred vegetable salsa, tortilla crisps and avocado ($20).

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Stuck on Reserve Street Mason Buchanan Cook, Dinosaur Café Inside Charlie B’s at 428 N. Higgins Avenue Where are you going: Famous Dave’s What are you ordering: Brisket and pork combo What are you drinking: Cold Smoke on tap How much are you spending: $15 Buchanan doesn’t hesitate in

naming the barbecue chain when he’s out among the box stores. “I think we’re a little more authentic,” he says of the Dinosaur Café grub, “but their barbecue is great.” Famous Dave’s brisket and pork combo ($14.99) is just one of many combinations offered.

For instance, the St. Louis Rib-NMeat BBQ combo ($15.99) features a 1/3 slab of spareribs plus your choice of beef brisket, chopped pork, barbeque or roasted chicken, rib tips, chicken tenders, hot link sausage, sweetwater catfish or wings. Famous Dave’s is located at 2915 N. Reserve Street.

Brunch Johnny Coburn Host, Sushi Hana 403 N. Higgins Avenue Where are you going: Old Post Pub What are you ordering: Breakfast tacos What are you drinking: Grand mimosa How much are you spending: $10–$15 For what it’s worth, Coburn wasn’t the only expert who raved about brunch at the Old Post. In addition to their mimomas and Bloody Marys, a couple people

hailed OPP’s Caesar ($5), which is basically a Bloody Mary that substitutes clamato for tomato juice. The Old Post serves brunch Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., and is located at 103 W. Spruce Street.

Late-night Munchies Mike Crowther Taco maker, Taco Sano 115 1/2 S. Fourth Street W. Where are you going: The Caz truck What are you ordering: Fish tacos

What are you drinking: Gin and tonic (beforehand, of course) How much are you spending: $4 Crowther has no problem giving El Cazador’s popular mobile unit some props—he says their fish tacos are among the best in town, and he would appear to know. The truck can usually be found before and after bar break at the corner of Ryman and Front. The restaurant is located at 101 S. Higgins Avenue, and has been voted Best Mexican Food in the Best of Missoula readers’ poll for years.

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First Meal of the Day Chase Sackey Deli manager, Worden’s Market 451 N. Higgins Avenue Where are you going: Ruby’s Café What are you ordering: Belgian waffle for me, fruittopped pancakes for the kids What are you drinking: OJ How much are you spending: $50 with the whole family Ruby’s Café is located at 2101 Regent Street, just off Brooks Street. You can usually

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spot the old-styled diner by the half-dozen Missoula Police Department or Missoula County Sheriff ’s Office squad cars that help fill the parking lot—always a good sign of a greasy spoon known for its friendly prices and large portions. The Belgian waffle, for instance, runs just $6.25, and the short stack pancakes $3.50.

Be warned: You can only get these items on the weekend.

Just Dessert Lisena Brown Barista, Le Petit Outre 129 S. Fourth Street W. Where are you going: Caffè Dolce What are you ordering: Gelato What are you drinking: Nothing; it’s all about the gelato How much are you spending: $3 for two scoops; $7 for a take-out pint Brown developed a taste for authentic gelato while in Europe, and says our local Italian café “definitely stands up.” Caffè Dolce offers about 24 different rotating flavors, including cinnamon, crème caramel and mango, all of which are made in-house.

Caffè Dolce has two locations: 500 Brooks Street and inside Southgate Mall.

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Budget Lunch Peter Clavin Owner, Peter the Pie Guy www.peterthepieguy.com Where are you going: Sa Wad Dee What are you ordering: Pad Thai, hot, sometimes with chicken, sometimes with tofu What are you drinking: Thai iced tea, of course How much are you spending: $10 Clavin, who’s a regular at the Clark Fork River Farmers’ Market, feels a little guilty naming Sa Wad Dee. “That’s an easy one,” he says. “Everyone loves their lunch specials.” The reigning winner of the Indy’s Best of Missoula reader poll for Best Asian Food offers a daily menu of lunch items ($7.95 for one item; $8.95 for two), including Pad Thai, Tom Kah Gai (Thaistyle hot and sour soup with chicken, mushroom, lemon grass & coconut milk), deepfriend chicken with ginger, and extra hot spicy beef with basil over rice. Sa Wad Dee is located at 221 West Broadway.

Girls’ Night Out Marya Leach Bartender, Flipper’s Casino 125 S. Third Street W.

What are you drinking: PBR How much are you spending: $20

Tom Kah Gai at Sa Wad Dee

Where are you going: James Bar What are you ordering: Chop salad for me and The Dips as a group appetizer What are you drinking: Vodka and soda How much are you spending: $30–$50 James Bar is located at 127

W. Alder Street. The eclectic bar menu is best known for its homemade french fries and sliders, but the selection goes much deeper. The Cyprus Chop Salad ($10) includes chick peas, feta cheese, olives and chicken on a bed of romaine. The Dips ($9) features warm pita bread served with tzatziki sauce, warm feta and fresh hummus.

Date Night Kate Nittinger Counter staff, Bernice’s Bakery 190 S. Third Street W. Where are you going: Biga Pizza What are you ordering: Caramelized Goat

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The Caramelized Goat ($12 or $18) includes heaps of goat cheese piled upon a generous portion of caramelized onions, making it a dubious choice for a date night.

“Probably not the best bet,” admits Nittinger, “but it’s my favorite.” Biga Pizza is located at 241 W. Main Street and has won the Best of Missoula readers’ poll for Best Pizza four years running. Its owner and chef, Bob Marshall, also holds the award for Best Chef.

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Linked in Sausage making is a study in economical butchery

by Ari LeVaux • photos by Chad Harder Four coolers full of frozen deer meat, three six-packs of beer and two KitchenAids with meat-grinder attachments sit in what we’ll call Sausage Central.

The two machines faced each other on the counter, meatexpeller attachments poised en garde, so it seemed, as if for a swordfight. Their owners preferred to be identified by the colors of their appliances—one blue, the other red—rather than by name.

The contents of the coolers were collected from freezers 30

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around town, trimmings from last year’s hunt that were too full of sinew to cut into steaks

again, last year’s scraps are about to be buried beneath another layer of fresh shwag.

“With or without mustard and pickled product, sweet and spicy Italian sausages are a true autumn delicacy.” or stew chunks, and too full of meat to throw away. With hunting season now in full swing Feast 2011

That’s where the Boys of Sausage come in.

Here at Sausage Central,

they turn the shank, the side, and other nameless frozen scraps into sausage: sweet and spicy Italian and kielbasa.

Mr. Blue was rubbing his hands together, not in excitement, but because they were so cold after hours of handling half-frozen meat. “It’s good to have it partially frozen,” he said. “Makes it easier to cut through the sinew.” As he held his hands under the warm water of the faucet he predicted, “This is gonna hurt.”

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An American classic, certainly not invented by J.J. but definitely tweaked and fine-tuned to perfection!

#15 CLUB TUNA® The same as our #3 Totally Tuna except this one has a lot more. Fresh housemade tuna salad, provolone, sprouts, cucumber, lettuce, & tomato.

#16 CLUB LULU® Fresh sliced turkey breast, bacon, lettuce, tomato, & mayo. (JJ's original turkey & bacon club)

#17 ULTIMATE PORKER™ Real applewood smoked ham and bacon with lettuce, tomato & mayo, what could be better!

WE DELIVER! 7 DAYS A WEEK MISSOULA

420 N. HIGGINS AVE.

406.542.1100

"YOUR MOM WANTS YOU TO EAT AT JIMMY JOHN'S!" ® © 1 9 8 5 , 2 0 0 2 , 2 0 0 3 , 2 0 0 4 , 2 0 0 7 , 2 0 0 8 J I M M Y J O H N ’ S F R A N C H I S E , L L C A L L R I G H T S R E S E RV E D . We R e s e r ve T h e R i g h t To M a k e A n y M e n u Ch a n g e s .

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• Quality edible products from baked goods to candies.

• More than a dozen strains with more added regularly.

Call today, we'd love to answer your questions.

Do you need your Medical Card?

Call us today for more information.

406.830.3371

New patients please call for a consultation today.

Best Breakfast in Town!

HUGE Portions!

Breakfast Burritos, Omelets, Huevos, Buttermilk Pancakes, Banana Bread French Toast and much more!

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540 Daly Ave • Missoula, MT

Mon- Thur 7am-8pm • Fri 7am-4pm • Sat 8am-4pm • Sun 8am- 8pm

721-6033

(When school is not in session we often close at 3pm)

Missoula Independent

Feast 2011

grinding the meat twice. The first grind mixes the meat with side pork (ask your butcher)— and in the case of the kielbasa, bacon as well. Then spices are mixed in and the mixture is ground again. Finally, the sausage-stuffer attachments are placed on the KitchenAids, and the ground meat, fat and spices are stuffed into real pig intestines, or hog casings.

The Boys of Sausage bought enough salted hog casings to stuff 100 pounds of sausage. As the hog casings soaked half an hour in water to remove the salt, they looked like soggy fettuccini noodles.

Mr. Red measured and snipped off a 6-foot length, which looked like a 6-foot booger. He held the hog casing under the faucet, running water through it to rinse the inside. Then he

carried the soggy length of casing to his red KitchenAid and slipped it onto the sausageexpeller attachment, which he had already lubed with nontrans-fat shortening. Watching him lube that meat expeller would surely have sent Freud running to mommy.

With 6 feet of hog casing bunched onto the shaft of the meat expeller, Mr. Red tied off the end of the casing, flicked on the machine, and while Mr. Blue pressed the spiced sausage into the intake, Mr. Red gingerly held the expanding sausage with one hand; with his

other hand he regulated the tension on the unfilled casing, releasing slack evenly until the sausage was 6 feet long.

D a y s l a t e r, u n d e r Halloween skies, we cooked the sausage. Each 6-foot length was twisted several times at 8inch intervals into eight links

Innovative & Traditional featuring: organic montana flour fresh, local ingredients seasonal menus artisan meats and cheeses on-site beer & wine

Open for lunch Monday through Friday; for dinner, Monday through Saturday 241 W. Main Street 728-2579

bigapizza.com Feast 2011

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per length and coiled onto the grill. When they were browned on both sides and ready to burst, the kielbasas were snipped apart and placed in a vat of hot sauerkraut. The sweet and spicy Italian sausages went on buns or directly into the mouth. With or without mustard and pickled product, it was a true autumn delicacy.

pork and 1 1/4 pound bacon.

Grind once, then add 20 cloves of minced garlic, 10 teaspoons salt, 10 teaspoons dried marjoram, 5 teaspoons allspice, 5 teaspoons sugar, 5 teaspoons black pepper and 2 1/2 cups bitter ale. The flavor was perfect, but a little dry.

I took what I had learned and observed to the sausage

“I like bay leaves and juniper berries in deer sausage. Something about juniper berries and wild game really works.”

—Bill Stoianoff, Uncle Bill’s Sausages

For their sweet Italian sausage, the Boys of Sausage used four parts deer to one part side pork. For 10 pounds of deer and pork, ground together, they mixed in 5 tablespoons of salt, 2 1/2 tablespoons black pepper, 2 1/2 tablespoons fennel seeds and 5 tablespoons chopped parsley. This was my favorite of their sausages.

For their spicy Italian, use the same deer/pork mix. For 10 pounds, mix 2 ounces salt, 2 ounces paprika, 1 ounce cayenne, 1/2 ounce black pepper, 1/2 ounce sage, 1/2 ounce fennel seed and 1/2 ounce oregano. This was good too, but spicy.

For kielbasa they mix 10 pounds deer, 1 1/4 pound side 34

Missoula Independent

Feast 2011

master, Bill Stoianoff, aka Uncle Bill of Uncle Bill’s sausages.

Uncle Bill sells hand-crafted, gourmet sausage, all guaranteed to contain no “noses, toses, hoses, or roses.”

“Roses?” I asked.

“That’s assholes,” he said.

“I like bay leaves and juniper berries in deer sausage.

Something about juniper berries and wild game really works,” he said. “But here’s the most important thing with wild game sausage: you want 50/50 deer to pig, otherwise it’s too dry. Use 100 grams of salt for every 15 pounds of meat.”

Then Uncle Bill offered a sage piece of advice to the homemade sausage maker: “The rest is art,” he said.

Largest open stock of Fiesta in the Northwest.

Family owned & operated for over 35 years.

Open 7 days a week.

Located in downtown Missoula 201 W. Broadway • 406.728.2175

You can now order Fiesta online at Feast 2011

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Local talent.

World-class flavor.

When not teaching in our demonstration kitchen here at the Good Food Store, many of the guest instructors in our cooking school are performing in the finest restaurants in Western Montana.

They have often trained at famous culinary institutes and worked with renowned chefs from around the globe.

So don’t be surprised that you sample world class flavor when you join us for a class. And don’t be surprised when these chefs recommend locally-raised beef, pork and lamb in the recipes they are demonstrating. Or suggest greens, garlic, apples and herbs harvested from fields right here in the five valleys. Because our local culinary stars recognize just how talented our local farmers and ranchers are as well.

Yes, those same farmers and ranchers we’ve always been so proud to represent here at the Good Food Store.

For current cooking class schedules, please stop by the GFS Customer Service Desk or visit www.goodfoodstore.com.

www.goodfoodstore.com | 1600 S. 3rd St. West | 541- 3663 | 7am to 10pm Every Day