Feast 2015 by Independent Publishing

Missoula Independent

Feast 2015

photo by Cathrine L. Walters

Chefs dish on their favorite local meals . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Restaurant listings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s good in each Missoula â&#x20AC;&#x2122;hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Menus gone wild . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Regional delicacies as everyday comfort food . . . . . .28 Street address: 317 S. Orange St. Missoula, MT 59801

Phone: 406-543-6609

Web: missoulanews.com

Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

Local foodies dish on what Missoula meal they most desire by Jule Banville • photos by Cathrine L. Walters

Fireworks Chicken at Mustard Seed Asian Café

f you had to leave western Montana for at least five years— let’s say for a sojourn to the Dirty East—and you got to come back for just one meal, where would you go and what would you order? That’s the question we (and by “we,” I mean “I,” since being one of the Indy ’s food columnists doesn’t come with assistants) asked some food-lovers around town. Sandwiches and burgers were big, but with twists and good reasons. The minestrone at Caffé Dolce got some love from an award-winning 10-year-old cook. More chef-y types went breakfast-y. Others went Asian. At least two of our respondents are walking past the long and storied bar at Charlie B’s to order up Creole from the Dino Café window in the back. Hungry for more? Keep reading.

Eric Johnson Executive chef, Lolo Peak Brewing Co. Johnson answered our question on a day that happened to be his birthday, which was less eventful than the original. That happened in a ’68 Buick Skylark between Plains and St. Regis, “somewhere around Mile Marker 7 is what my dad tells people,” he says. He’s just a few weeks into his gig as

the chef at Lolo Peak Brewing Co., which opened last July and has ambitious menu plans to match its beer buzz. Between birth and chef-ing in Lolo, Johnson’s traveled to, lived in and cooked at a lot of places, including New Zealand, Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada, Alaska, Hawaii and 34 of the 48 other states. When he comes back home, he’s going “Dino Café for a poboy and turkey gumbo, definitely,” he says. He wasn’t the only one we asked who wanted to invoke the place locals love to love in the back of Charlie B’s. The Dinosaur Café, famous for its takes on Creole and Cajun as well as its nononsense, pay-when-you-order M.O., impresses Johnson most with its consistency. “I don’t know how many owners they’ve been through, but you always know what you’re getting and that it’s going to be good.” Plus, there’s the nostalgia factor, which pretty much defines Charlie B’s. “My dad has a lot of history there,” says Johnson. We also let him answer what he’d eat off his own menu because we’re nice like that. “I’d have to say my barbecue pulled pork with pickled vegetables,” he says. He’d also throw in the slaw, which is Carolina-style with healthy amounts of vinegar. When we talked, the kitchen at Lolo Peak wasn’t open. He and the owners are aiming for a midNovember launch.

Jenny Lynn Fawcett Maitre diva, Burns St. Bistro That title above? That’s actually on her business card and encompasses what she does as the BSBer in charge of the front of the house. She also runs the coffee program at the Westside favorite and, you know, bakes on occasion. Fawcett has several thoughts on our question. The first one brought her to Charlie B’s (see what we mean with the “love to love” thing?) for a pint of Pilsner Urquell and a catfish po-boy slathered in Tapatio sauce and malt vinegar. We inform her someone already sortof said that and ever-adaptable Fawcett has another plan: How about the chilaquiles at Catalyst Café at 111 N. Higgins Ave.? The Mexican skillet casserole is a breakfast go-to for her, she says, because it goes beyond what could be a thrown-together, forgotten-leftovers dish. “I think they still soak their tortillas in chicken broth. That, along with the chips and everything that goes into it, it just makes it a little more special,” she says. But if we let her go to the Bistro, she says without hesitation she knows what she’s asking the guys in the back to make her: The NSLF Dip, named (obviously) for the Northside Liberation Front, the movement from way back to break the bastardized neighborhood from the cruel confines of Missoula. BSB’s sammy is sliced braised beef served banh-mi style, topped with Asian slaw and slathered with whipped beef-tongue pâté. It all gets dipped in a pho broth. What, you were expecting something else from liberation?

California or, ahem, Montana, but New Yorkers make better pizza. The end. When you finish writing that angry letter to the editor, consider Zimorino’s been cooking for people of this region since 1979—first and for 25 years at Zimorino’s Red Pies Over Montana in downtown Missoula, then at Zimorino’s Arlee Grill and more recently as the food brains (and not as the owner) at the mostly takeout 1250 W. Broadway version of Red Pies. He also writes a food blog and works as a caterer, in addition to selling real estate full-time. “It’s a toughie,” he says when we get over our fandom and ask the burning question, “because there’s a lot of good food and a lot of good places in this town right now.” He did finally settle on a dish he likes but doesn’t make himself: Fireworks Chicken at Mustard Seed Asian Café. He’s been eating there since long before it settled at the Southgate Mall. “I still go there regularly and just love that sauce, how it balances hot and sweet,” he says. That’s his pick and he’s sticking with it, though he also gave some love to the green curry at Sa-Wad-Dee, rice bowls at Five on Black, everything at Pearl (particularly a three-peppercorn sauce he hasn’t seen there in a while but has figured out at home) and the seafood spread at Mr. B’s Chophouse, the restaurant inside the Buck Snort on Mo Club burger Evaro Hill. “I’ll travel for that,” he says.

Fair enough. The Missoula Club burger is famous for a reason and Hilton’s has to do with time and place. Whenever he’s had a burger itch in Missoula, a quick pop into that brightly lit home of the Griz has never not scratched it. He likes his topped with white cheddar and grilled onions. He also likes that it’s the same, always. One bartender will put it on the grill. Another might take it off and plate it. It

doesn’t matter. “It’s perfect every time,” says Hilton, but does caution against the gut bomb that is the Mo Club double burger. “Have one (single) and give yourself 20 minutes. If you’re still hungry, get another.”

Tad Hilton Tasting room manager and head bartender, Montgomery Distillery Hilton’s a thinker and so when we put him on the spot, he asked to sleep on it. Bob Zimorino Western Montana’s not home. Florida is. Retired chef, current caterer and real Before he got here, he was in NYC working at estate agent, creator of Red Pies Over the pretty-famous ABC Kitchen. So we figured Montana Zimorino to us is the magical unicorn of it’d be worth the wait. “I’m going Mo Club burger,” he eventu- Missoula: elusive, colorful, familiar with all 11 Finger Lakes. As a western New Yorker ally says. (not “upstate,” thanks very much), we knew “Okay. What about it?” we say. “What not about it?” is his immediate at first bite Zimorino’s pie was a slice of home. We’re sorry to all you people from answer. 6 Missoula Independent Feast 2015

Pearl Cash Owner and chef, Pearl Café If she’s gone for five years and she comes back to Missoula for a meal, Cash is going to breakfast and she’s going to the Shack Café, 22 W. Main St. “I would have the broccoli, spinach and cheese omelet and I’d ask them to put a little bacon in it, too,” she says, adding she’d also need a slice of Birdman toast and some gravy on the potatoes. “Yep. I’d definitely do that.” She swears you don’t have to be Chef Cash to ask for the addition of bacon. You could also go with the bacon omelet and ask for a little broccoli thrown in. “I give them the choice,” she says.

The gyro at Greek Pastry and #1 Gyros

Chilaquiles at Catalyst CafĂŠ

If she’s allowed to go to her own restaurant? “I’ll regret this because it’s an impossible amount of trouble, but I’d go with the duck.” The dish takes four pans: one for the sauce, one for the mushroom custard, another for the leg to get it perfectly crisp and a fourth for the breast. As

If he had to go out somewhere other than Dolce, he’d head over to Sushi Hana for anything nigiri. “Because I think it’s great and I can’t make it at home,” he says. If Dolce is on the table, it’s the beef short rib pappardelle on his plate, alongside a glass of Barbera, “the perfect meal.”

Americano, Le Petit Outre

long as she’s not on the line doing the work, she says, it’s totally worth it. Peter Lambros Owner, Caffé Dolce Lambros is a cheater. When we ask him the question, he pretty much insists we let him go to his mom’s house. Dorothea Lambros, we hear, makes an incomparable manestra, a Greek orzo-like dish that cooks in tomato sauce and soaks up drippings from her roasted lamb. It gets hit with some Parmesan before it’s done. “I still request it for Christmas,” he says. 8

Missoula Independent

Feast 2015

Chloe Long Montana’s winner of the White House Healthy Lunchtime Challenge Chloe Long of Frenchtown is an up-and-comer in the western Montana food world. At 10 years old, she’s got room to grow. But she knows what she likes and Peter Lambros’ perfect meal at Caffé Dolce isn’t hers. She is going to his restaurant, though— the one at Southgate Mall. But she’s ordering the minestrone. A soup full of noodles and beans—“lots of beans and lentils”—with a hard-to-replicate blend of spices and served with

French bread: It hits the spot, says Chloe. “I go there a lot with my mom.” She’ll sometimes get the grilled cheese and maybe a scoop of strawberry gelato to go with, but those are optional. Chloe has been cooking, mostly with her dad, for several years. Her tofu stir-fry won a statewide contest that sent her to lunch at the White House with Michelle Obama, whose husband also showed up unannounced. Now, Chloe’s part of a kids-teaching-kids nutrition program with the Good Food Store. And although she’s famous for tofu and picked as her bucket-list dish a bean-filled soup, she’s not opposed to meat. Her family raises pigs, typically one each for her and her brother to sell at the fair. The third “extra pig” they often eat. They had some the other day. “I think it was in a stir-fry,” she says. Emily Walter Cooking school manager, Good Food Store After landing for her one-meal-only adventure in Missoula, Walter is getting on her bike and heading over to LPO (Le Petit Outre) for an Americano. She figures that after at least five years away, she’ll be nostalgic for her old routines. Then, since it’s Sunday and she’s on vacation, she’s hopping back on and heading to Burns St. Bistro for anything with candied bacon, which is fortunate, because BSB does love its candied bacon. “It’s all I’ll care about while pedaling over there,” she says, going with it. Burns St., to her, is the place to go because “they are really trying. They don’t always

hit it because they are trying so hard all the time, but as far as creating something great and working toward it, I respect that.” Aaron Taylor Wine guy, Corkscrew Wine Corp. McCoy Connor, the bartender/cook at Flipper’s Casino, 125 S. Third St. W., confirms Taylor walks the few steps from his job at Corkscrew wine “about once a week” to order what Taylor calls a “ringer.” It’s a cheeseburger with a fat onion ring on top. It’s gotta come with tots, not fries, and you need to make sure you sub out the Canadian bacon for “real bacon,” says Taylor, who’s worked in numerous pro kitchens and has been known to cook it up gourmet at 2 in the morning. Flipper’s, he says, is an institution and he’s all for institutions. “I’m old enough that a lot of my favorite places aren’t here any-

Omelet, The Shack Café

more,” he says. That can all be soothed by a burger, some tots and “you know, people sitting around telling jokes.” McCoy Connor Bartender/cook, Flipper’s Casino “I’m going with the g yro at #1,” says Connor after answering the phone at Flipper’s, referring to Greek Pastry Shop and #1 Gyros. The meat at the South Fifth Street joint across from the Orange Street Food Farm is just better than any other gyro in town, he says. “It’s a Missoula thing. Ask people. It’s a consensus.” There you have it. Jule Banville is a food writer for the Independent. Her column, “What’s Good Here,” appears every month.

DISH Biga Pizza 241 W. Main St. 728-2579 bigapizza.com Biga Pizza offers a modern, downtown dining environment combined with traditional brick oven pizza, calzones, salads, sandwiches, specials and desserts. All dough is made using a “biga” (pronounced bee-ga) which is a time-honored Italian method of bread making. Biga Pizza uses local products, the freshest produce as well as artisan meats and cheeses. Featuring seasonal menus. Lunch and dinner, Mon-Sat. Beer and wine available. $-$$

Burns Street Bistro 1500 Burns St. • 543-0719 burnsstbistro.com We cook the freshest local ingredients as a matter of pride. Our relationship with local farmers, ranchers and other businesses allows us to bring quality, scratch-cooking and freshbrewed Black Coffee Roasting Co. coffee and espresso to Missoula’s Historic Westside neighborhood. Handmade breads & pastries, soups, salads and sandwiches change with the seasons, but our commitment to delicious, affordable food and over-the-top fun and friendly service does not. Mon-Fri 7am - 2pm. Sat/Sun Brunch 9am - 2pm. Reservations for Prix Fixe dinners on Fri & Sat nights. $-$$

Blue Canyon 3720 North Reserve St. 406-541-BLUE (2583) bluecanyonrestaurant.com We offer creatively prepared American cooking served in the comfortable elegance of our lodge restaurant featuring unique dining rooms. Kick back in the Tavern; relish the cowboy chic and culinary creations in the great room; visit with the chefs and dine in the kitchen or enjoy the fresh air on the outdoor patio. Parties and special events can be enjoyed in the Bison Room. $$-$$$

Buttercup Market 1221 Helen Avenue • 541-1221 thebuttercupmarket.com One block west of the University, the Buttercup serves up breakfast and lunch fresh every day from Montana grown ingredients to grab and go or to stay and linger. Hearty, healthy homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, empanadas and BC-crafted pastries offer something delicious for everyone including a great selection of gluten-free and vegan choices. The Market features micro-beers and regional wines. The BC has temporary office space, meeting space, WiFi, and the Vespiary Book Bindery. Reduce your carbon footprint: Eat local and bike,walk or bus to the Buttercup! $-$$

Bravo! Catering 224 N. Higgins Ave. 541-4900 bravocatering.net Bravo! Catering is a full-service, fully mobile catering company servicing northwest Montana and beyond. Chef/owner Ryan Boehme brings 22 years of restaurant experience to the world of catering. Chef Ryan and his staff will work with you to present the most creative, seasonal and regional dishes in Montana. $$-$$$

Butterfly Herbs 232 N. Higgins • 728-8780 Celebrating 42 years of great coffees and teas. Truly the “essence of Missoula.” Offering fresh coffees, teas (Evening in Missoula), bulk spices and botanicals, fine toiletries & gifts. Our cafe features homemade soups, fresh salads, and coffee ice cream specialties. In the heart of historic downtown, we are Missoula’s first and favorite espresso bar. Open 7 Days. $

Market on Front is open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We look forward to seeing you soon.

We pride ourselves on being an all-encompassing market – a one-stop shop – with a selection of products and goods that our team has carefully chosen to be the best.

201 E. Front St. • marketonfront.com Mon - Sat: 7:00 am - 9:00 pm • Sun: 8:00 am - 7:00 pm Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

DISH Community Food & Agriculture Coalition of Missoula County MissoulaCFAC.org CFAC envisions a future where houses, farms, and ranches thrive; people are well-fed and food secure; family farms are sustainable, successful, and supported within a community food system; and farmers and ranchers can access the land they need. Doc’s Gourmet Sandwiches 214 N. Higgins Ave. • 542-7414 • docsgourmet.com Doc’s is an extremely popular gathering spot for diners who appreciate the great ambiance, personal service and generous sandwiches made with the freshest ingredients. Whether you’re heading out for a power lunch, meeting friends or family or just grabbing a quick takeout, Doc’s is always an excellent choice. Delivery in the greater Missoula area. We also offer custom catering!...everything from gourmet appetizers to all of our menu items. $-$$ Einstein Bros Bagels 150 W. Broadway • 523-2767 einsteinbros.com Einstein Bros Bagels wrote the book on fresh-baked bagels! But we didn't stop there; we also have some of the best coffee and espresso, deli sandwiches, breakfast sandwiches, lunch sandwiches, soups, salads, delicious baked snacks and sweets. We also have a variety of healthy food options with less than 350 calories. $-$$ El Cazador 101 S. Higgins Ave. • 728-3657 elcazadormissoula.com Missoula Independent readers’ choice for Best Mexican Restaurant. Come taste Alfredo's original recipes for

Missoula Independent

Feast 2015

authentic Mexican food where we cook with love. From seafood to carne asada, enjoy dinner or stop by for our daily lunch specials. We are a locally owned Mexican family restaurant, and we want to make your visit with us one to remember. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$ Five Guys Burgers & Fries 820 E. Broadway 830-3262 fiveguys.com Five Guys gives you exactly what our name suggests: burgers and fries. Burger-lovers come here for the best burgers and fries in town. If you have a hankering for an amazing burger and world-class French fries, Five Guys is your place. $-$$ Good Food Store 1600 South 3rd West 541-FOOD (3663) goodfoodstore.com The GFS Deli features made-to-order sandwiches, Fire Deck pizza & calzones, rice & noodle wok bowls, an award-winning salad bar, an olive & antipasto bar and a self-serve hot bar offering a variety of housemade breakfast, lunch and dinner entrées. A seasonally changing selection of deli salads and rotisserieroasted chickens are also available. Locally roasted coffee/espresso drinks and an extensive fresh juice and smoothie menu complement bakery goods from the GFS ovens and Missoula's favorite bakeries. Indoor and patio seating. Open every day 7am-10pm $-$$

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over

Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

DISH Grizzly Liquor 110 W Spruce St. 549-7723 grizzlyliquor.com Voted Missoula’s Best Liquor Store! Largest selection of spirits in the Northwest, including all Montana microdistilleries. Your headquarters for unique spirits and wines! Free customer parking. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-7:30pm. $-$$$ Hob Nob on Higgins 531 S. Higgins 541-4622 hobnobonhiggins.com Come visit our friendly staff and experience Missoula’s best little breakfast and lunch spot. All our food is made from scratch, we feature homemade corned beef hash, sourdough pancakes, sandwiches, salads, espresso and desserts. $-$$ Iza 529 S. Higgins 830-3237 izarestaurant.com Contemporary Asian cuisine featuring local, vegan, gluten-free and organic options as well as wild-caught seafood and buffalo. Join us for lunch and dinner. Happy hour 3pm-6pm weekdays with specials on food and drink. Extensive sake, wine and tea menu. Closed Sundays. Open Mon-Fri: lunch 11:30-3pm, happy hour 3-6pm, dinner 5pmclose. Sat: dinner 5pm-close. $-$$ Market on Front 201 E. Front St. marketonfront.com The Market on Front is more than a market with a restaurant. It is an energetic marketplace which offers an epicurean experience to excite the senses. It is also a vibrant marketplace creating an opportunity to taste and take home the products of artisans who create excellent products at awesome prices. This communitycentered specialty food destination features gourmet yet traditional prepared foods, sandwiches, salads, specialty cheeses, charcuterie, local brews, wines, espresso and so much more! $-$$ Missoula Senior Center 705 S. Higgins Ave. 543-7154 (on the hip strip) themissoulaseniorcenter.org Did you know that the Missoula Senior Center serves delicious hearty lunches every weekday for only $3? (Missoula County residents over 60: $3, only $6 if younger and just stopping by) Anyone is welcome to join us from 11:30am-12:30pm Monday- Friday for delicious food and great conversation. For a full menu, visit our website. $ Mountain Lake Lodge 14735 Sylvan Drive Bigfork 406-837-3800 www.mountainlakelodge.com Mountain Lake Lodge offers spectacular viewing of Flathead Lake and has 2 restaurants to choose from. Riley's Pub and Sports Bar features sandwiches, burgers and lighter fare for the entire family and Schafer's is available for fine dining with mouthwatering creative dishes designed by local chefs. Catering is also available for big parties and weddings. Mountain Lake Lodge is located just 5 miles from beautiful Bigfork. $-$$$

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over 14

Missoula Independent

Feast 2015

DISH The Mustard Seed Asian Cafe Southgate Mall 542-7333 mustardseedweb.com Contemporary Asian fusion cuisine. Original recipes and fresh ingredients combine the best of Japanese, Chinese, Polynesian, and Southeast Asian influences. Full menu available at the bar. Award -winning desserts made fresh daily, local and regional microbrews, fine wines and signature cocktails. Vegetarian and gluten-free menu available. Takeout and delivery. $$-$$$ Pearl Cafe 231 East Front St. 541-0231 pearlcafe.us Country French meets the Northwest. Idaho trout with dungeness crab, rabbit with wild mushroom ragout, Snake River Farms beef, fresh seafood specials daily. House made charcuterie, sourdough bread and delectable desserts. Extensive wine list; 18 wines by the glass and local beers on draft. Reservations recommended for the intimate dining areas. Visit our website to check out our nightly specials, make reservations, or buy gift certificates. Open Mon-Sat at 5pm. $$-$$$ Plonk 322 N Higgins 926-1791 plonkwine.com Plonk is an excursion into the world of fine wine, food, cocktails, service and atmosphere. With an environment designed to engage the senses, the downtown establishment blends quality and creativity in an all-encompassing dining experience. Described as an urban hot spot dropped into the heart of the Missoula Valley and lifestyle, Plonk embodies metropolitan personalities driven by Montana passions. $$-$$$ Qdoba 1001 E Broadway Eastgate Plaza • 549-0020 qdoba.com Enjoy authentic Mexican food at Qdoba: custom burritos, tacos and more, including health-oriented options. Conveniently located in Eastgate Plaza close to UM. Delivery available, charges may apply. $ Red Bird 111 N. Higgins 549-2906 redbirdrestaurant.com A hidden culinary treasure nestled in the historic Florence Building. The wine bar offers casual dining with over 25 wines by the glass and an extensive beer menu with live music on Mondays. The restaurant offers intimate evening dining showcasing local ingredients, transforming them into edible artwork. Wine Bar: Mon-Sat 5pm-10:30pm; Restaurant: Tue-Sat 5pm-9:30pm. $$-$$$

Red's Bar Home of "Dead Pecker Row" 127 Ryman • 728-9881 • redsbar.net Red's has a huge sports memorabilia collection including the largest football helmet collection in the state as well as two full-service bars, 14 plasma TVs, keno-poker games, an official Montana Lottery terminal to accommodate our patrons. Come on down, support your favorite team. Have a good time with your friends, family, and acquaintances at Red's Bar, Missoula's Sport's Bar since 1952. $-$$

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

DISH Romeo’s Italian Kitchen 919 SW Higgins 721-1500 romeositaliankitchen.com Authentic Italian food is above all a creation of local and fresh ingredients, gathered and prepared in dramatically different ways. Romeo's has a great menu developed by our executive chefs and inspired by the food and traditions of Italy. Taste and tradition are combined using the best imported ingredients from Italy and fresh, local Montana flavors and ingredients. Come in and enjoy a vibrant Italianinspired culinary experience. $-$$

Shack 222 W. Main 549-9903 theshackcafe.com A Missoula favorite since 1949. Delicious meals made with quality ingredients. Fine wine and beer selection, weekly dinner specials. See our complete breakfast, lunch and dinner menu online. Open every day at 7 a.m. $-$$$

Grizzly Property Management, Inc. “Let us tend your den”

Since 1995, where tenants and landlords call home. 715 Kensington Ave., Suite 25B 542-2060• grizzlypm.com

Worden's Market and Deli Corner Higgins and Spruce 549-1293 wordens.com Say Worden's Market and you've said a mouthful - surprising wines, boutique beers, a lively Montana deli, fine cigars and hard-to-find groceries—all just around the corner. Get informed, fast, and friendly service at a Missoula Downtown landmark. $-$$

BITTERROOT BITTERROOT

217 Ryman St * 728-9881

WWW.REDSBAR.NET

MISSOULA’S SPORTS BAR SINCE 1952 Montana’s Largest Football Helmet Collection

KENO POKER ATM

14 Plasma TVs

DirecTV Sports Pack NFL Sunday Ticket ESPN Game Plan March Madness

MLB Extra Innings NBA League Pass ESPN Full Court NHL Center Ice

Missoula Independent

Official Montana Lottery Terminal

Feast 2015

Bitter Root Brewing 101 Marcus St. Hamilton 363-7468 bitterrootbrewing.com Bitter Root Brewing is open 7 days a week serving delicious microbrews and tasty hand-crafted food. Live music EVERY Thursday and Saturday from 6pm-8:30pm. Check out our website or find us on Facebook for upcoming events, menus, and other information. Cheers! $-$$

The Catered Table 205 Main St. Stevensville 777-7090 cateredtable.com The Catered Table offers casual fine dining at its best. Seafood, steaks and pasta are our specialty. Just 25 minutes from Hamilton or Missoula on Stevensville's Main Street. Join us for an outstanding meal and enjoy a microbrew or a glass of wine from our growing international selection. Ask for our catering department to quote on your special event. 5pm-9pm Tuesday-Saturday, Sunday 5pm-8pm, Closed Mondays except for reserved catered events. $$-$$$

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over

DISH The Edge Restaurant 140 Bitterroot Plaza Drive Hamilton 375-0007 theedgerestaurant.com A Hamilton tradition. The Edge Restaurant offers everything you want in a great dining experience. Enjoy fireside dining with an incredible view of the Bitterroot Mountains. From sizzling steaks to succulent seafood there’s a wide variety of tantalizing entrees served in a casual, comfortable smoke-free atmosphere. Enjoy handcrafted cocktails and a large selection of your favorite wines. Casino 8:30am-11pm, lunch and dinner 11am-10pm. $-$$ Higherground Brewing Co. 518 N. 1st St. • 375-5204 Hamilton highergroundbrewery.com Famous beer, famous pizza in Hamilton, Montana! Higherground Brewery proudly serves great beer, great pizza, and we take basketball challenges very seriously. If you can’t tell, we really like beer, pizza, sports, and having a good time. We have taken so many pizza orders, that our beer has found competition in-house! Our kitchen provides the best pizza in Hamilton. We would like to say all of the Bitterroot, but that contest hasn’t been decided yet. Visit our website often for event updates. Open 11am-8pm Tues-Sat and 1-8PM Sunday. CHEERS! $-$$ River Rising Bakery 337 Main St. Hamilton • 363-4552 riverrisingbakery.com Hamilton's finest bakery, deli, and espresso bar. Serving all-butter pastries, delicious and nutritious muffins, cream scones, and delectable desserts. Or choose from our selection of homemade soups, salads, and sandwiches found nowhere else. Open 6:30am-5:30pm MonFri, 8am-4pm Sat, 8am-2pm Sun. Weekday local business lunch delivery available 9am-1pm. $-$$ Romeo’s Italian Kitchen 755 Main Stevensville 777-4499 romeositaliankitchen.com Authentic Italian food is above all a creation of local and fresh ingredients, gathered and prepared in dramatically different ways. Romeo's has a great menu developed by our executive chefs and inspired by the food and traditions of Italy. Taste and tradition are combined using the best imported ingredients from Italy and fresh, local Montana flavors and ingredients. Come in and enjoy a vibrant Italian-inspired culinary experience. $-$$ Spice of Life 163 S 2nd St. Hamilton 363-4433 thespiceinhamilton.com Spice of Life welcomes you to the Bitterroot’s dining experience. Serving up fresh and fun food in a conscientious manner. For lunch try one of our handmade burgers from Lolo Locker or one of our fabulous fresh salads. Dinner selections include natural beef, sustainable seafood selections and pasta dishes made from Montana wheat from Pasta Montana. Quench your thirst with beer from right here in Hamilton or try one of our reasonably priced yet fantastic wine selections. Children’s menu available. No reservations. So come as you are to Spice of Life! Lunch: Mon - Fri 11am to 2pm Dinner: Wed - Sat 5pm-9pm. $-$$$

$…Under $5 $-$$…$5-$15 $$-$$$…$15 & Over

>t z^ &Z ^,͘ >t z^&Z ^, >t z^&Z ^,͘ >>t >t t z t z^ z^&Z ^ z^^ &Z ^ ^,͘ ^, >t >t z^ >/ /Kh^͘ >t t z z^ z^ >>/ /Kh^͘

ϭϲϯ ^͘ ϮŶĚ ^ƚ DͲ& ϭϭͲϮ >ƵŶĐŚ ϯϲϯͲϰϰϯϯ tͲ^Ăƚ ϱͲϵ ŝŶŶĞƌ ttt͘d, ^W/ /E, D/>dKE͘ KD Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

A tour of Missoula restaurants that best reflect their surroundings by Kate Whittle â&#x20AC;˘ photos by Cathrine L. Walters

Rattlesnake Gardens

issoula is known for a bustling downtown, and rightly so, but we think it’s time the neighborhood joints got a little recognition. Part of settling into a new area and making it feel like home is finding a reliable place to sip good coffee, grab a satisfying lunch or take the family out to dinner and keep everybody happy. Scattered throughout Missoula’s neighborhoods, we’ve found places that fit at least one of those requirements, and sometimes all at once. This list doesn’t claim to be comprehensive, but we’ve compiled some of the restaurants that serve as representative markers for their locales. Along the way, we’ve found these places have a few things in common: they’re run by people with a passion for their town, their ’hood and good food.

South Hills

The Keep The picturesque spot on Ben Hogan Drive that overlooks Missoula has been a local fixture under one name or another for decades. Melissa Mooney, co-owner of what’s now The Keep, says it originated as the Greenough Mansion, owned by the Greenough family in what’s now Greenough Park. In the 1960s the Victorian-style home was taken apart, hauled up to the present-day location on the South Hills, reassembled and turned into a restaurant, then simply called The Mansion. “A lot of people who’ve lived here for a while still call it The Mansion,” Mooney says. Local legend held that The Mansion was haunted. “The previous employees and managers did have some interaction with the ghost, Edith Greenough,” Mooney says, “And it was said she had either committed suicide or her husband killed her, but her ghost haunted the mansion before it burned down.” A mysterious fire destroyed the building in 1992, and it was rebuilt and reopened in 1993 as Shadow’s Keep. Mooney and her husband, Reed, purchased the restaurant in 2007, rebranded it as The Keep, and kept a

The Keep

classic, upscale menu of steak and seafood dishes. Today, Mooney says, ghosts don’t wander the kitchen anymore, but the recipe for rack of lamb has remained the same as it was in the days of The Mansion.

tain landmark in mind: the grand edifice of Caffé Dolce, which sits at the intersection of Brooks Street and Beckwith. The larger, younger sibling of the original Caffé Dolce in Southgate Mall, the standalone space serves as a casual brunch or lunch spot, and transitions into a more formal dinner service in the evening, with an emphasis on French and Italian-style cuisine. Owner Peter Lambros says the building, which opened about six years ago, was meant to draw foot and bicycle traffic from around the historic, walkable neighborhood. Stop by Caffé Dolce for a cup of coffee, bite of panini-grilled PB&J or scoop of gelato, and you’ll feel at home in the Slant Streets in no time.

University District

Buttercup Market Café Dolce

Slant Streets

Caffé Dolce It’s not uncommon to get lost in the Slant Streets. Hell, a friend of ours who’d been living there for months was once walking home from the bars, turned down the wrong alley and had to call for help. Navigating the confusing grid is a little easier if you keep a cer-

The cozy Buttercup Market, located in a 100-year-old building on Helen Avenue, offers breakfast and lunch to appeal to studying students and the residents of the historic University District. Newcomers can expect treats like corn muffins studded with organic Idaho blueberries and a creamy winter squash soup. “We get babies, and we have a regular customer who’s in her ’80s,” says owner Molly Galusha, a longtime U-District resident herself. The market is named after her grandmother, Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

Burns St. Bistro

though it did briefly have a Princess Bridethemed menu. (Not enough people got the joke, Galusha says, so they dropped it.) Since Buttercup opened in 2011, Galusha has been willing to adapt, and now changes are on the way for the kitchen, since a successful re-zoning effort means the market can now serve things like cooked-to-order breakfasts. Galusha says to expect the market to stay dedicated to local and fresh ingredients, with Montana-sourced dairy, meats and flour.

Westside

Burns St. Bistro “Burns St. Bistro? What street is that on?” The staff at the bistro have gotten used to this question since it opened in spring 2012. (It’s housed in the Burns Street Commons at 500 Burns St. on the Westside, of course.) Chef and co-founder Walker Hunter says it’s why the name is still important for the creative restaurant, which was intended to be a neighborhood landmark from the get-go. “When we started this place, it was in the middle of a neighborhood that was almost classifiable as a food desert,” Hunter says. In a short time, BSB 20

Missoula Independent

has routinely drawn folks to a part of Missoula many had never before visited. An ever-revolving menu and themed brunches, plus special multi-course dinners on the weekends, make the Bistro a place to find simple favorites like biscuits and gravy, or innovations like Cocoa Puff panna cotta and beeftongue tacos. A cast of eclectic, Swedish-electronica-loving characters behind the counter— and an equally quirky clientele—help add to the community atmosphere.

Rattlesnake

Rattlesnake Gardens Rattlesnake Gardens offers just about everything a resident of this hilly, wildernessbordering neighborhood could need to get through the day, as a coffee shop/market/ homey restaurant. (Take note: it’s cash only, with an ATM.) For dinner, it’s hard to go wrong with picking one of the specials, which are posted every day on the restaurant’s Facebook page. Recent specials included well-executed classics like chicken parmi-

Feast 2015

giana, three-bean beef chili and smoked brisket, plus forays into adventurous dishes like ricotta-stuffed portobellos or Dave’s Pork-Fried Quinoa. Open alcoholic beverages aren’t allowed inside the building, but you’re welcome to purchase beer or wine from the market and take it outside. (The staff will even hand you a corkscrew along with your napkin and silverware.) Dining out in the yard is the best way to experience Rattlesnake Gardens, where you can bring beer or wine out to the picnic tables, dine under the trees and kick back.

Reserve Street

Stone of Accord “We’re definitely like a warm hug from mom,” says Dan Zachary, chef at Sean Kelly’s Stone of Accord, of its ultimate comfort foods. Stone of Accord opened on Reserve Street to provide a more family restaurant

vibe, as compared to the original downtown pub location, which has since changed hands and is undergoing renovations. Stone of Accordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen expanded on the Irish-with-a-twist theme with appetizers like pasties in Guinness gravy, Thai peanut chicken skewers and eggrolls stuffed with corned beef and cabbage. From brunch with the kids to burgers at the bar, Stone of Accord has something to please just about anyone taking a break from the Reserve Street frenzy.

Buttercup Market

Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

Got game? Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what you should know about exotic meat served at restaurants by Ari LeVaux

Missoula Independent

Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

t could be the smell of brittle leaves, the chill in the air or the frost on the pumpkin, but whatever the cue, fall is the time of year when many a diner’s thoughts turn to wild game and the rich, lusty dishes in which it appears. Restaurant chefs are well attuned to this seasonal vibe. But “wild game,” in the context of a restaurant menu, is a loose-fitting term. In most cases the phrase is either inaccurate or illegal, since it’s against the law to sell meat that was hunted on American soil. The only way to legally purchase truly wild game (other than seafood) at a restaurant is if the meat is imported, such as wild hare and game birds that are legally market-hunted in Scotland. Any trout on a restaurant menu, whether served on a cast-iron skillet or not, grew up in a fish farm, not a free-running stream. The appearance of large “wild” mammals like deer, boar, antelope and bison on a menu can mean many different things—some wilder than others. At one end of the spectrum, it could mean exotic deer species raised as livestock in pens. At the other end are animals that, while not truly wild, come awfully close to what most people would consider wild. For example, certain establishments—Broken Arrow Ranch in Texas being among the most prominent—allow their free-range deer, antelope and boar to roam vast expanses of private land, fending for themselves and living like wild beasts. “Harvesters”—who bear a remarkable resemblance to “hunters”—drive around the ranch taking suitable animals with rifles and processing them in the field,

photo by Cathrine L. Walters

which is supposed to reduce the animals’ stress response and improve the quality of the meat. Other wild-game producers capture animals like wild boar live, then dispatch them in a slaughterhouse. There is debate over whether this method is more humane or stressful to the animals than shooting them. All this nuance should leave the aspiring consumer of wild game with more questions than meat on his or her plate, especially given the stinginess of the game portions typically served in restaurants. But if you ask the right questions, and if your server knows the answers, you’ll be better prepared to stalk your tastiest wild options. If the meat on your menu is imported, then you could very well be getting the real deal, and the most important thing I can tell you is to chew carefully. There’s always a chance of finding shot in wild-hunted game birds, and biting down on a metal ball bearing is about the quickest way to get from gastronomic heaven to dental hell.

If you’re dealing with a domestic animal, especially a large one like deer, elk, antelope or boar, you should assume, barring more specific information about the animal’s provenance, that it probably came from a Midwestern pen. Which means it’s wild only in terms of genetics, not in how it lived its life.

If your attraction to wild game is based on a desire to connect with the wilderness ecosystem from which it was taken, then farmed game species won’t cut it. But assuming that you can learn enough about your specific animal’s background from your server, or perhaps your mobile device, and you decide to go ahead and order some wild-sounding dish, the next thing to consider is how the meat is presented. If it’s a steak, loin, chop or medallion, as the soft cuts are usually labeled, then you’ve entered the upper end of the price range for wild game, and you’re likely to pay upwards of $30 a pound for the privilege. Game meats that have been processed, like sausage, are less expensive, but any identifiable semblance of the animal from which it came will have been lost in the grind. The animal’s flavor, meanwhile, will be obscured by spices and other ingredients. And your game meat will likely have been mixed with pork. This is for good reason, as game species are typically too lean

Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

to make for flavorful sausage without added fat, but it’s adulteration nonetheless. In the end, the decision of which “wild” game species to order comes down to why you want to eat wild in the first place. Are you seeking the health benefits of meat that’s typically higher in omega-3 fats? Are you curious to explore new flavors? If so, most game-meat menu options will satisfy. But if you’re looking for a deeper connection to the wild, you’ll have to grill your server very carefully before you order that grilled venison loin.

Missoula Independent

Ari LeVaux is a food writer for the Independent. His column, “Flash in the Pan,” appears regularly. Feast 2015

Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

How to turn local delicacies into everyday comfort food by SOUStown CHEF

photo by Cathrine L. Walters

’m a big fan of comfort food. When I worked as a chef at a fine dining establishment in an East Coast city, we’d prepare high-priced, small-plate cuisine for folks dressed to the nines. While our menu received critical acclaim and the dining room was usually full, I always thought our staff meals were better. These were the big-portion, community-style dishes that included many of the same ingredients as the restaurant’s main menu but none of the pretense. I consider them some of the best meals of my life. When cooking for friends and family now, I try to remember the lessons learned during those staff meals. It becomes especially important when guests visit from out of town. As western Montanans, this provides tons of opportunity for adventure. While some of you may immediately think of quintessential regional fare as growlers of craft beer and Mo Club burgers (just read Jule Banville’s story earlier in this issue for a sampling of what foodies crave in Missoula), I believe we’re required by law to also introduce tourists to bison, morel mushrooms and huckleberries. That’s the ultimate triumvirate of local delicacies. But that word—delicacies—presents a problem. It implies that you need to use these precious items in some sort of five-star

Missoula Independent

meal. Hogwash. You can break out the fine china and satin linens if you want, but I’m inclined to feature these delicacies in fingerlickin’ dishes you’ll actually, you know, want to eat. Leave the fine dining to someone else and enjoy these three comfort food recipes.

Huckleberry Barbecue Chicken Wings A favorite for football Sundays and family feasts, this recipe has become a must-have when relatives visit. In fact, they now stock up on huckleberry jam and make a variation at home. What you need: 2 pounds chicken wings, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, ¼ cup fresh huckleberries, ¼ cup soy sauce (regular or low sodium), 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar, 3 tablespoons light brown sugar, 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, ½ teaspoon minced garlic, ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, ½ teaspoon roasted sesame seeds and ½ teaspoon ground ginger. How you make it: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Sprinkle wings with salt and pepper to taste. Spread the wings evenly on a baking sheet. Cook for 20 minutes, flip over, then

Feast 2015

cook for another 20. Meanwhile, combine remaining ingredients in a blender or food processor. Blend until smooth. Transfer to small saucepan and simmer on low until slightly reduced. When wings are done, place them in a large bowl and pour in huckleberry sauce. Toss the wings until fully coated. Return wings to baking pan and cook an additional 5 minutes. Chef ’s notes: As mentioned above, relatives make a variation by simply replacing fresh berries with a few scoops of jam. This is going to be sweeter, so make sure to balance with other ingredients for taste. I’ve never had reason to try it—and neither should you—so I’m taking their word for it. Also, if you prefer to grill your wings rather than bake, you’re in for a treat. The smoky flavor adds a whole new dimension to the barbecue sauce.

Drunk Bison Meatballs This hits all of my prerequisites for a worthwhile recipe: easy to make, delicious and fun to eat. I’ve found that even picky eaters who are a little apprehensive about biting on bison end up devouring these things.

RESTAURANT Lunch and Dinner 11am-10pm

CASINO 8:30-11pm

BAR Closes at 11pm

At Hamilton Wine & Liquor, you’ll find the widest range of wine and spirits in the Bitterroot. Our knowledgeable staff will ensure you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for. Stop in and browse the selection or grab what you know and go.

photo by Cathrine L. Walters

What you need: 2 pounds ground bison, 1 egg, 1 diced onion, ½ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, 1 cup plain bread crumbs, 3 tablespoons fresh parsley, 1 teaspoon black pepper, ½ teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons ground basil, 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, ½ bottle of sauvignon blanc. How to make it: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, add ground bison, egg, onion, crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, parsley, bread crumbs, pepper, salt, basil and Worcestershire sauce. Mix well. Form into small balls and place on an oiled baking sheet. Make sure not to let the meatballs touch. Bake for 15 minutes. Heat a chafing dish (or electric skillet or, if you don’t have either of those, a stovetop pot). Place cooked meatballs in dish. 32

Missoula Independent

Feast 2015

Pour a half-bottle of wine over the meatballs to keep them moist. Keep on low heat. Dig in. Chef ’s notes: Go with a dry sauvignon blanc. I’ve used Bogle (about $10-$12) and Mirassou (same), both from California.

Morel Poppers I’m not a big fan of deep-frying anything, but this is a nice change of pace to the usual move of taking fresh morels and sautéing them in butter and wine (and more butter). What you need: A dozen medium-sized fresh morel mushrooms, 3 ounces mozzarella and/or Monterey Jack cheese (diced), 1 serrano chili pepper (seeded and chopped), 2 cloves garlic (chopped), 1 tablespoon olive oil, ½ teaspoon crushed

Feast 2015

Missoula Independent

photo by Cathrine L. Walters

LOOK NO FURTHER FOR THE PERFECT BURGER WINNER, BEST HAMBURGER & BEST FRENCH FRIES! 820 E. BROADWAY • 406-830-3262 • CALL IN OR ORDER ONLINE

FIVEGUYS.COM

Missoula Independent

Feast 2015

red pepper flakes, 1 tablespoon chives (chopped), 1 egg, ½ cup flour, 1 cup vegetable oil and pepper and salt to taste. How to make it: Rinse and clean your fresh morels and remove stems. Place clean morels on paper towels to dry. In the meantime, carefully dice the cheese into small, 1/8-inch cubes and place them into a small bowl. Heat the olive oil in a small pan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and serrano pepper. Sauté until the garlic and pepper are softened, about 3 minutes. Add the crushed red pepper, stir briefly, and remove from the heat. Allow to cool for a minute or two and then add the sautéed ingredients and chives to the diced cheese. Mix briefly to combine the ingredients. Add black pepper to taste. Cut a slit in the side of each morel and fill with as much of the cheese mixture as it will hold. Repeat until all of the morels are filled and set them aside. Make your batter by separating the egg yolk and white into two small bowls. Beat the egg yolk until it becomes creamy and light yellow. Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Gently fold the beaten yolk into the white until it is completely incorporated.

Heat the vegetable oil in a medium-sized pan over mediumhigh heat. While the oil is heating up, dredge the cheese-filled morels in the flour. Test the temperature of the oil by flicking a drop of the egg mixture into the pan. If it sizzles up immediately, the oil is hot and ready. Plunge each flour-dusted morel into the egg mixture, making sure it is completely covered, and gently drop it into the hot oil. Repeat with more of the morels, but do not crowd the pan. When the bottom is wellbrowned, turn each morel with tongs. Turn again to brown all sides as necessary. Remove the cooked morels to a paper-towellined plate and keep warm. Repeat, cooking the remaining filled morels in batches. Sprinkle the morel poppers with salt to taste, and serve. Chef ’s notes: A friend suggested I try this with a different filling: Rondelé cheese. That’s certainly makes things easier, but also a little less spicy. You can also experiment with dipping sauces, although I’ve found the original recipe to provide all the flavor I need. The SOUStown CHEF is a food writer for the Independent. His column, “Munchies,” appears every month.