Headwall 2017 by Independent Publishing

Table of Contents Frozen tots................................................................4 New here? New gear! .............................................10 Paddlers on ice.......................................................20 Best of Missoula: Outdoors edition.......................26 Cover photo by Chris Chapman Missoula Independent P.O. Box 8275 Missoula, MT 59807 Phone number: 406-543-6609 E-mail address: independent@missoulanews.com

photo by Chad Harder

Montana Headwall Winter 2017

Missoula Independent

photo by Chris Chapman

photo by Joe Weston

ifteen years ago my husband Seth and I loaded a van with crates of books, a futon mattress and the requisite 7-month-old puppy and drove out of Oregon’s Willamette Valley headed for Montana. We didn’t know where we were going to live when we got here, only that there were mountains, I had a job waiting, and it had started to rain in Eugene— again—which meant it was time to move. We were 25. That first winter we lived in a vacation rental up Rock Creek. We had no idea we’d landed on a blue ribbon trout stream and no clue how to fish until a neighbor stealthily left a fly rod on our porch. We practiced our casts in a snowy field and spent much of that winter standing on an ice shelf over the river, catching fish after fish and dreaming up mountain adventures. When spring came, we bought a house on five acres of high grass and fallen fences in Arlee, at the base of the Mission Mountains. We had so much to learn, but youth and tenacity made up for the knowledge we lacked. We’d stand in the pasture and look up at the peaks in our backyard, wondering where to start. We

Montana Headwall Winter 2017

bought a map and a packable fly rod. We got so very lost. So many times. But we began to get our bearings about the trails (very steep) and the high mountain lakes (very cold), and soon enough Seth was waking me at ungodly hours, putting a cup of coffee in my hand, tucking me into our pickup and driving us deep into the woods, where we’d ferret out the trailhead. Sometimes there was no trail at all, only thick brambles and downed trees. We would hike, traverse and scramble in the mountains from dark until dusk during the long days of summer. We’d catch fish, clean them, and take them home for late dinners on our deck. When the weather turned cold, we carried ice axes instead of fishing rods and wore crampons instead of wading boots. Thinking back, it all seems a little luxurious, those seemingly endless days in the mountains. Like van-loads of others who came to Montana young and with we’ll-figure-it-outwhen-we-get-there as a career plan, we recreated deeply, and in every season. Once we we had kids a few years later, we knew we wanted to share what we’d found—the lakes above the

tree line, the ice crag in our backyard, the hot springs perched beside the cold mountain stream—with our children. We wanted this place, their home state, to crowd their young memories. We wanted the scent of cottonwoods in spring to be their compass, alpenglow their guiding light. And it all started well enough. We had our first daughter on a damp August day and took her for a walk in the pasture. We pointed to the hills in the distance and whispered into her soft brown hair. “One day,” we told her. Early the next summer we loaded her into a baby backpack and hauled her up to our favorite mountain lake in the Missions. The beargrass was head high and she swatted the blooms as we passed. I fed her when we got to the lake and I remember thinking that we were doing it. We were getting our children out in the wonder while they were young. They would never know anything different. Then winter came. I was pregnant again and even a walk in the snow began to seem impossible.

“Cold,” Eliza screamed one day. “I cold!” We hadn’t even made it to the pasture from our back door. The snow was up past her knees and she kept toppling over in it. Eventually she gave up, crumpled to the ground, and lay there crying until I picked her up. And just like that we were introduced to the reality of a tiny child faced with a Montana winter. Sledding, cross-country skiing, downhill skiing—we tried it all and failed miserably before finally arriving at an age (our daughters are now 8 and 10) where we all actually enjoy being outside, together, in winter. It was not an easy path to get here. There were times I was sure we needed to move somewhere warmer, when I was ready to hang up my dreams of sharing mountain adventures with my girls. There were times I decided that leaving the house wasn't even close to worth the bother, times when I chose instead to stay home by the fire. I almost went stir crazy sitting by that fire. But eventually the girls got a little older. Eventually I started getting enough sleep. And eventually we began, slowly, to ventured back outside. When Eliza was 4 I took her to Snowbowl, just to let her get a feel for the rope tow.

Lucille was two, and I thought she could play in the snow at the bottom of the bunny hill while her sister gave it a go. Eliza was quick to master the tug of the rope and before long she was taking laps on the gentle incline. Children, mine, recreating in winter! It was a beautiful three minutes until Lucille buckled at my feet. Her cheeks were red from tears and cold, her tiny hands purple and cold as ice.

She kicked, she hollered, and when I tried to pick her up she arched her back, wiggled out of my hands, and slid down the hill, coming to a stop just outside the Last Run Inn. There she lay, butterflied on the snow, in the same pink snowsuit her sister had been wearing just a few years earlier when she collapsed in similar distress, in our backyard, in a wet, cold little heap.

Montana Headwall Winter 2017

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Disasters like these have prompted me to become more proactive in getting my girls outdoors, especially in the intemperate months. I’ve learned a few things along the way, and hopefully these tips can save you some grief as you venture out with your own kids. Because the effort truly is worth it. I promise.

SECURE YOUR OWN MASK BEFORE HELPING OTHERS Small children get cold quickly, and in snowy conditions they are often wet. This can cause them to become irrationally difficult, and leave you wondering why in the world you ever thought it was a good idea to step out your front door. The best way to help them is to first help yourself. Make sure you have the right gear to keep warm and dry. Do you need an extra pair of socks? Are your gloves up to the rigors of the rope tow? Are you sure you’ve got all the pieces of the chariot you’ll be pulling through the snow with your little ones snuggled inside? Check in with yourself and make sure you’re ready to take on the adventure you’ve planned. Also: Eat. Do you have enough snacks and water to recharge throughout the day? Pack

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extra food and something warm to drink. You’ll run out of energy almost as quickly as your children will, and you’ll be no help to them or your partner if you’re coming unglued because you’re starving and exhausted halfway through the day.

PACK HEAT Think food, not firearms. Kids need fuel to stay warm, and food is fuel. Pack plenty, and

Montana Headwall Winter 2017

offer it often. Our 8-year-old, an otherwise creative, feisty and mostly agreeable creature, turns into an absolute train wreck if she doesn’t get enough to eat. Cold weather can quickly zap whatever reserves kids may have, and if they’re out of reserves, well, it ain’t pretty. At least not in our house. I’d like to say that I pack homemade granola and organic dried fruit when we head out for a day of winter adventuring, but in reality nothing gets Lucille down the slope in better spirits than a few Starbursts on the lift. I pack my pockets with treats when we ski and dole them out over the course of the day. It can mean the difference between a smooth run and stopping every 100 yards to peel a tiny melting child out of the snow.

CHECK YOUR EGO AT THE WARMING HUT Take a deep breath and remember: This isn’t about you. Lucille was slow to warm to sports. I once asked her if she wanted to take a hike with me up the North Hills. “No,” she said. “I don’t like to walk up hills.” I hate skiing. Skiing is stupid. Ice skating is

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dumb. I hate cross-country skiing. Sledding hurts. I’ve heard all these refrains and more over the years. Lucille has come around, but it’s taken time. If I’d had any aspiration that she’d join a competitive ski team at 5, I’d have been seriously disappointed. But my ego was not wrapped up in her success on the slopes, and I think she loves skiing today because she got no pressure from me.

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I’ve had other parents tell my kids to slow down, to stop climbing to the top of the swing set, or the climbing wall, or the red rock of southern Utah. “She’s got it,” I tell them, even if I have a knot in my stomach. “She’s OK.” It doesn’t always come naturally for me. When Eliza started to play hockey she told me I had to stop cringing in the stands. When Lucille started gymnastics she told me I had to stop “making noises” every time she flipped. But my kids have a good sense of their own abilities. As long as they’re safe, I try to let them explore their limits. If they get in trouble I’m close, but they can usually figure out how to get themselves out of a tricky spot.

ASK FOR HELP If you know about yourself that you are not patient (I hear some people are like that—I personally wouldn’t have a clue what that’s about), find someone else to teach your child the basics of whatever sport you’re encouraging them to learn. Trust me.

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BE WILLING TO CALL IT A DAY When Eliza takes off her helmet, steps out of her skis and says she’s done, she’s done. I don’t push her past that point. When Lucille says it’s time for hot chocolate, it’s time for hot chocolate. I don’t question her even if it’s three o’clock and there’s plenty of time for one more run. I respect their limits, because they know when they’ve reached them.

POWER THROUGH I’m really glad we powered through the pain-in-the-ass moments when our kids were little, because we’re reaping the benefits of having tough, hardy girls today. And we’re finally having fun year-round. Which was really the point in the first place.

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o you’ve moved to Missoula. Welcome! And congratulations—you’ve chosen a fine little town to call home for a while. Maybe longer. Who knows? And thanks a lot. Because of you—the generalized you, not the actual you reading this, of course—our roads are all torn up for upgrading and every third building is a bank now and the rent is too damn high. But that’s cool. Not specifically your fault. We look forward to seeing you around. Probably at a brewery. All the buildings that aren’t banks are breweries. But you didn’t come to Missoula to get scolded for choosing Missoula. You came here, if you have any sense at all, to play. Missoula is an extraordinary place to play. Well chosen. And if you have any sense at all, you got here in time to enjoy summer, which is almost absurdly easy to enjoy. But it’s winter now. Winter is different. Winter requires a bit of savvy to appreciate fully and safely. It requires extra layers of clothing and extra planning. It requires a whole different kit of gear, obviously. We hope you got a place with a garage. You’re probably going to need a bigger garage. We like gear—gear enables play, after all—and gear is the centerpiece of this issue of Headwall. But instead of concentrating on the latest and greatest gadgets to hit the market this season, we decided to strip down to basics and pretend we just got here. What would we need to be able to get out and extend the fun yearround (rather than, say, sitting inside all the glorious winter just drinking and clicking the angry face on Facebook). Well, what you need depends. How deep down winter’s rabbit hole do you want to go? We decided on four categories of engagement with and investment in wintertime recreation, from the

hesitant to the arguably excessive. Like ski runs, they’re marked easiest (green circle), intermediate (blue square), difficult (black diamond) and expert (double black diamond). For activities, we chose walking, ice fishing, downhill skiing and ice climbing. We went to local outfitters and asked them to gear us up for each activity. Follow their advice and you should be out and about and well equipped in no time. The only question left is: Where would you like to start?

EASIEST: WALK BEFORE YOU RUN

Many winter pastimes require a good deal more equipment, time and investment than a lot of us can afford. But don’t let that leave you moldering at home over a long, dark winter. Plain old hiking—or “walking,” if you prefer—requires minimal outfitting and makes sure your butt doesn’t become overly familiar with your couch. Trails on the North Hills, Mount Sentinel and Blue Mountain are open yearround and accessible via a short walk or drive from the city center. Zach Ford, owner of The Sports Exchange on South Third Street, recommends starting from the ground up with a good pair of hiking boots. The Sports Exchange carries a rotating selection of gently used gear, so much of the thrill is in the hunt. Expect to find brands like Merrell (we found a pair priced at $85) or Asolo ($55.) Lightweight summer-style hiking boots tend to be more affordable than designated winter gear and will work just fine, Ford says, as long as the tread is still grippy and you buy a size that can accommodate thick socks. And you’ll want to go with waterproof boots or use waterpoofing spray for when snow turns to slush.

Ford also recommends tying gaiters around your shins to keep snow out of those boots. Sports Exchange has bins of secondhand gaiters—I found a set for $15. Socks are one thing you’ll want to buy new. Low-key day hikers will do just fine with the Kirkland wool-blend trail socks at Costco, which run $11.99 for a four-pack. For a more high-performance sock suited to long days of backpacking, Ford suggests checking out The Runner’s Edge or The Trail Head. Those places will also be well stocked with running tights or waterproof pants, just in case you decide to kick your winter ambling up a notch. “Probably my next suggestion for anyone winter hiking is layers,” Ford says. “One big jacket is going to be too much and you’re going to overheat.” Rummage through the bins of thermal layers at Sports Exchange to find brands like Columbia, North Face and Patagonia. A typical find might be an XL Patagonia zip-up long-sleeve shirt for $30.

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When it comes to an outer shell, Ford likes retro coats because they’re more likely to feature a roomier cut that can accommodate more

Montana Headwall Winter 2017

layering. We found a size large North Face coat for $80. Or try a puffy down vest—we found one for $45. “Tapered jackets are great for fashion sense, but not for actual outdoor activity,” Ford says. “We tend to come up with some older styles that are a little more functional.” Don’t forget to dig through the bins for gloves and headgear; a fleece headband or beanie ($10-$20) will keep your ears warm. Gloves typically go for half their original price tag. When trails get icy, Ford suggests using a traction device like Yaktrax. If you can’t find them in stock at Sports Exchange, you can find them new for $20-$26. Sports Exchange also stocks ski poles for $10 apiece, and they work as well as hiking poles if you don’t mind that they aren’t collapsible, Ford says. He also takes a moment to salute those of you who venture out in the chilly months. “With seasonal depression being such a huge thing, we need to encourage people to get out and do stuff,” Ford says. “You get up 1,000 feet, out of the fog, and realize the sun is out and how glorious the rest of the state is.” —Kate Whittle

INTERMEDIATE: HOW COLD IS YOUR ICE HOLE?

Ice fishing doesn’t sound all that complicated. Trudge out onto the ice with a chisel, a rod and a five-gallon bucket. Drop a line. Wait. Pull out a fish. And that’ll do, if sitting on a wind-whipped

sheet of ice is your idea of fun. That’s not Raymond Dowell’s idea of fun. Which is why the Sportsman’s Warehouse salesman begins his recommendations with first things first. “An ice house is the way to go,” he says, pointing to the row of bulbous nylon shelters set up on the store’s showroom floor. Modern ice fishing is a gear-heavy activity, and Sportsman’s keeps a gear-guide checklist displayed at the front of the ice-fishing section. The aisles of equipment—and, frankly, the price tags— give the sense that it could be easy to go overboard, but Dowell stays focused on beginner necessities. Even so, getting started will require some cash. Shelters alone cost between $199.99 (for the 34-square-foot Eskimo Quick Fish III) and $289.99 for a model that’s double that size. Dowell says it’s worth the price, and not just because it will keep you warm. An enclosure also helps prevents your rod, line and hole (the one you’re fishing through, of course) from freezing over. First, though, the hole must be drilled. No, don’t try to chisel it. Pick up an auger to do the hard work. The thrifty option here is Eskimo’s 8inch hand auger for $49.99. Convenience will cost a lot more, but be aware that a day on the ice will typically require the drilling of quite a few holes. “I might punch ten,” Dowell says. Gas-pow-

ered augers like the Eskimo Mako 10 ($369.99) make quick work of the chore. Electric models have become increasingly popular for the obvious reasons: They’re quieter, don’t smell, and don’t require hauling a gas tank onto the ice. The 8 inch Ion auger at Sportsman’s weighs 22 pounds, operates on a battery that lasts at least 40 punches on a charge, and will set you back $529.99. Once the hole’s drilled, “There’s going to be a lot of slush in there,” Dowell notes. Sportsman’s sells metal skimmers that can clear it out for $4.49, but a regular old kitchen utensil should do. Ice fishing involves a lot of small accessories of this sort, including some designed for safety. Dowell recommends outfitting yourself with a pair of Celsius ice cleats ($7.79) and an Ice Escape Life Preserver ($7.49), which consists of two spiked plastic handles connected by a cord. If you fall into the water, you can use the handles to leverage your body back onto the ice. Luckily, the actual fishing part can be pretty simple. Anglers after modest pan fish can use a short, heavy rod like the 28” Shakespeare UglyStik ($19.99) with some light duty 4-6 lb. line. No reel necessary, Dowell says. Tip-ups—wires that attach to the line and trigger a flag when tension indicates a fish on—will come in handy. For especially cold days Dowell suggests Beaver Dam’s Arctic Circle Thermal Tip-Up ($34.99), which contains a

Montana Headwall Winter 2017

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layer of foam to cover and insulate the hole. When fishing for pike, which might bite at a rate of once per hour, it becomes an important piece of equipment. Once you have all your equipment (and whatever you do, don’t forget a chair), you’ll need a sled that’s large enough to haul it all onto the lake. For a small setup, a Shappell Jet Sled ($41.99) should do the trick. And if this ice-fishing gear list sounds too daunting to a newcomer, Dowell notes an alternative: Just grab a spear ($119.97 for a Clam Solid Steel Spearhead) and wait for the fish to come to you. “It’s like watching a television screen without the TV turned on,” he says. —Derek Brouwer

ADVANCED: TAKE A POWDER

Putting together a decent ski setup is a bit like trying to put together an elaborate puzzle without looking at the picture on the box. So it’s always wise to consult the experts. Enter Nathaniel Solberg, whose grasp of the walls of gear at Bob Ward’s is nearly omniscient. And his advice starts with arguably the most important piece: boots. If you’re an intermediate who’s looking to take things to the next level this season, Solberg recommends the Dalbello Aspect 100, a solid boot with just the right amount of flex that goes for $349.95. The Aspect 100 comes complete with the oh-so-critical walk mode, Solberg points out, “or as I like to call it, bar mode.” Comfort is key where ski boots are involved, and any slope veteran can tell you that after-market inserts can be a game-changer for your feet. Bob Ward’s has a full size range of Blueprint insoles from $29.99. And don’t neglect the importance of getting your new boots sized in the shop, as ski boot sizes can be confusing. “Your tennis shoe size means nothing,” Solberg says. Solberg next makes a beeline to a brand new pair of Line Supernatural 92s, manufactured by a Seattle-based subsidiary of ski giant K2 and available for $599.99. A maple core with a metal sheet sandwiched between two sheets of fiberglass make these skis a sturdy yet lightweight option capable of busting through even the cruddiest of snow. The wide, 131-millimeter tip will also help keep powder newbies afloat during occasional off-piste forays. “We’ve got three guys in this shop who ski on these skis,” Solberg says, adding that he’s demoed them “hundreds of times.” But those Lines won’t do you much good without a decent set of bindings. Solberg suggests the Tyrolia Attack 11 for $169.99. They’re similar to the alpine bindings put out by industry leader Marker, with a few key differences. First, Solberg says, the Attack 11 doesn’t rise as much off the ski, meaning those Aspects will be closer to the snow and it’ll be easier to initiate turns. Second, the binding release isn’t nearly as stiff, so if you get tangled up on the slopes you won’t have to struggle to pop off those skis. Third, they’re cheaper. 16

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Montana Headwall Winter 2017

“We sell a lot of these. It’s ridiculous,” Solberg says. “They go out the door almost daily.” The price tags get a little less daunting from here on out. Solberg confesses he hasn’t used ski poles in years, but the aluminum Scott Jib is a solid choice at $47.50. The Jib comes in a variety of colors, for anyone who cares about that sort of thing, and they’re not prone to bending. When it comes to goggles, Solberg says, “I’m going straight to Smith, because Smith is awesome.” He’s particularly fond of the Smith Vice at $75. And because safety equipment has become the slopeside norm, Solberg plucks a $99.99 Smith Maze helmet off the shelf, tossing it in the air to show how light it is. Toggles in the back allow for adjustability, and a zipper pocket along the ear cover makes the Maze headphone compatible. The helmet might protect your noggin from a tumble on hardpack, but it won’t do much to keep your arms and legs warm during the long ride up Snowbowl’s Grizzly lift. That’s where the outerwear department comes in. So far this season, Columbia has been the most popular price point for ski jackets and pants.

Swany brand is a good one to look out for, with a price range from $30 to $120. A few styles even feature top zipper pockets perfect for stashing an extra hand warmer, because the last thing a powderhound-intraining needs is to lose a digit in the name of winter. —Alex Sakariassen

Though the nicer models like the Powderkeg Interchangeable Jacket will set you back $265.99, other Columbia coats can run as low as $150. Pants-wise, the price tags range from $114 to $200, all with the same waterproofing and Columbia’s trademark Omni-Heat insulation system. Bob Ward’s saves one key item for last, but hardly least. Tucked into an aisle near the checkout is a wide array of ski gloves. The

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A patch of ice on the sidewalk is enough to leave you with a broken bone. Ascending a wall of ice via axe and rope? Definitely not a sport to be taken lightly. Gearing up for a day of ice climbing is a bit like suiting up for battle. And what’s a soldier’s most important piece of equipment? The boot. “It’s a fine line,” the Trail Head’s Conner Given says, “between going out and having a pretty shitty time and having an awesome time.” Many factors can make the difference, but Given puts proper climbing boots near the top of the list. Stiff soles lend stability and efficiency to a grueling, technical workout, and help avoid mid-climb “Elvis Leg.” The style of crampon attachment also depends on the style of boot— another reason Given says to think about

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footwear first when assembling a climbing setup. Curiously, climbing boots are the one piece of climbing equipment you won’t find at the Trail Head. Given recommends trying online or REI. Once you’ve figured out the boot situation, pick up a crampon that interfaces properly with it. You’ll also want to note the style of frontpoint. The Trail Head carries a dual-point style, like the $184.95 Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampon, that works well for general alpine climbing. After boots and crampons, the third component is tools. Much of your standard rock climbing gear will transfer to the ice, but if you don’t already have them, you’ll need to buy a harness (Black Diamond Primrose, $54.95), a belay device ($21.95), a helmet (Black Diamond Vector, $100.00) and some rope (60 meters runs $189.95). Given suggests bumming as much gear as possible—highly specialized equipment like ice screws, for instance—from an experienced climbing partner while you’re starting out, and building your gear set as you go. Ice climbing’s most essential tool, of course, is the ice axe. Given picks the Black Diamond Viper, a “do everything” style that will work for mixed rock/ice terrain. It’ll set you back $249.99, and you’ll need two. The Viper features a curved aluminum shaft that makes for efficient energy transfer and keeps your hands away from the ice. Speaking of hands, Given says the right gloves are crucial to a good climb. Gloves, plural. Given takes no fewer than five pairs on climbs to have just the right match for each application, or for swapping out when one pair gets too wet. For swinging the axe, you’ll want a beefy glove that preserves your sensitivity to subtle movements. Ice climbing is a highly technical sport, and small slips in grip and pressure can cause you to lose your hold. The Black Diamond Guide ($169.95) works well for this purpose. Try Black Diamond’s heavyweight soft-shell glove with a leather grip ($49.95) or Arc’teryx’s Rivet Glove ($49.99) for various stages of the approach. For all the specialized tools you need for climbing, Given says it’s ancillary “creature comforts” that often make the day. “Honestly, having an enjoyable day of ice climbing will come down to those little things,” he says. “Having a warm, puffy coat to wear while you’re standing still, a Thermos full of coffee or cocoa so that you can kind of warm up.” The right company is important, too. A climbing partner is worth much more than his or her gear. Given recommends you make sure your first guide is knowledgeable, a good teacher and, most of all, patient. —Derek Brouwer 18

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here’s a saying in canoeing circles (at least I’ve heard it said) that if you’re not swimming, you’re not learning. Get it? You expand your abilities by exploring the outer edges of your limitations. And you can’t genuinely explore a boundary without at least occasionally crossing it. So you fall out of your boat or it fills with water and you sink and either way you’re swimming. By that measure I have become over the years a truly awful paddler. I’ll do almost anything to avoid falling out of a canoe. I still, to be sure, occasionally fall out of canoes. Not because I’m attempting to expand my abilities by exploring the outer edges of my limitations, you understand, but precisely because I never do that. And so, in the twentyodd years I’ve been paddling, i.e., trying really hard to not fall out of canoes, I’ve never improved. And so, perhaps ironically, I still find my skills frequently outmatched by circumstance, and I end up swimming anyway. And I freaking hate it. I hardly ever paddle even mild whitewater anymore, because I can tell you for sure I’ll swim in whitewater. And that’s a shame, because whitewater is fun. So, one could not let fear hold one back, which would be dumb, because fear is designed to be daunting for a reason. That’s how it helps

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us keep from killing ourselves. Or one could just avoid the thing which one fears. Happily, there is a canoeing niche in which a profound aversion to falling out of boats is an asset, and likely a lifesaver. I call it winter canoeing. Stay with me here. You say you’ve never seen anyone canoeing in winter? Say you’ve never heard of it, even?

Montana Headwall Winter 2017

There’s a simple reason for that. It’s because it’s just not done. Canoeing and winter have a deeply entwined relationship, but it has nothing to do with messing around in boats on water. Winter, canoe-wise, is for oiling your gunnels and backing the screws out (if wood is how you roll), rigging repair, paddle polishing (again, if you’re into that kind of thing) and ogling maps.

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But just because it’s not done doesn’t mean it can’t be. It most certainly can be. I’ve done it and I’ll do it again. Day after tomorrow, if the schedule holds. Winter canoeing might be my second-favorite kind of canoeing of them all. You just have to make sure you don’t fall out of the boat. (And maybe now is a good time to pause for a disclaimer: Don’t go canoeing in the wintertime. I mean, you really probably shouldn’t go canoeing in the winter. I’m definitely not recommending it. In fact you are hereby legally prohibited from misconstruing anything in this article as constituting affirmative advice (never mind consent!) that you ought to go canoeing in winter. You definitively oughtn’t. Winter canoeing? Who even does that? What on earth were you thinking?) But here’s the thing: If you were to go winter canoeing. you would be treated to one of the most sublime of all possible canoeing sublimities. First, there are no bugs in winter. Second, there are no people on the river in winter. Boom: There go two of the prime bothers of canoeing in one frigid swoop. But what you might see on a winter paddle is secondary to

what you’re likely to hear, which is nothing. The silence of a canoe slipping downstream is only amplified—sure, you can amplify silence—by a fresh layer of snow muffling the world beyond the banks. Paddling a canoe down a wintertime river is the sensorial equivalent of a clean slate. You just have to make sure you don’t fall out of the boat. So how does one avoid falling out of a boat? I’m glad you asked. There are several important strategies to consider. First, of course, you’re looking for Class I water, tops. If you don’t know what that means, DO NOT GO CANOEING IN WINTER! Luckily, there are plenty of Class I stretches in and around Missoula. I’ve paddled 24

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several sections of the Bitterroot and the Clark Fork in deep winter, and I didn’t fall out, and so I didn’t freeze to death, and so I remain here in the midst of this wondrous life to tell you to be sure to not go canoeing in winter. But if you do, which you shouldn’t, make sure to go somewhere where there are no waves or rocks or canoe-tumping river sharks. So, you know, Idaho is out. Second: Don’t take your dog. This should be obvious. You shouldn’t even have to ask. Canoes aren’t tippy. Dogs are tippy. Nine times out of ten, if you dump with a dog in the boat, it was the dog’s fault. Third: If the river is frozen, don’t go canoeing. This also should be obvious, but there are degrees of intelligence, which is why not everybody survives all the time. Even if there’s just shelf ice on your stretch of river, don’t go. Can you imagine getting distracted by a bird, or a cigarette, and finding yourself suddenly flipped and trapped under ice like Ben Affleck and that kid in Reindeer Games? No, you can’t, and you would die. I have a book which contains a photograph of an old wool-wearing, beard-dragging Vermont-y sort hacking and clawing his way up a frozen stream in a canoe using something like an ice axe. That is ridiculous and wrong. That is no way to canoe and it is no way to live. Fourth: Dress warmly. Layer, layer, layer. This is to stay warm inside the boat, not out of it. If you are foolish enough to go canoeing in winter and fall out of the canoe, you’re almost certainly doomed. You will freeze and die. It would be a good idea to wear rubber muck boots or heavy-duty chest waders while canoeing in winter, so that in the unfortunate event of a tump, you will die of drowning before you have time to freeze to death. Drowning sucks, but freezing is just awful. Fifth. Um, go with someone? I guess? Maybe you can help each other survive? Or maybe one of you makes the mistake that ends with both of you drowned and/or frozen to death. It’s hard to tell about people sometimes. Paddle tandem, as always, at your own risk. Sixth: Paddle your own canoe. You will be less familiar with how a rented or borrowed canoe handles. So don’t go canoeing in the wintertime unless you already have your own canoe. If you already have your own canoe, you should also—let’s be clear—not go canoeing in winter. This shouldn’t even be up for discussion. There are plenty of other things to occupy your time in the winter months. That paddle isn’t going to polish itself. So there you have it: everything you need to know about winter canoeing, which, again, is both a stunning way to engage the season in a town as water-blessed as Missoula and, simultaneously, a thing that I will vehemently deny ever having suggested that you do. It’s your call. I’ll look forward to not seeing you out there. Montana Headwall Winter 2017

Missoula Independent

The Best of Missoula 2016

Best Bike Shop Bike Doctor 2. Hellgate Cyclery 3. Bicycle Hangar

Best Golf Course University Golf Course 2. Larchmont Golf Course 3. Canyon River Golf Club

Best Place to Get a Snowboard Edge of the World 2. Bob Ward & Sons

Best Fishing Guide Joe Sowerby 2. Stacy Jennings, Stacy Jennings’ Fly-fishing School 3. Drew Miller, Grizzly Hackle Fly Shop

Best Health Club Peak Health & Wellness 2. TIE: The Women's Club & The Source 3. Missoula Family YMCA

Best Sporting Goods Store Bob Ward’s 2. REI 3. The Trail Head

Best Place for Paddle Sports Gear Strongwater Surf Shop 2. The Trail Head 3. LB Snow

Best Store For Guns Bob Ward’s 2. Axmen Firearms 3. Cabela’s

Best Fly-fishing Shop Grizzly Hackle Fly Shop 2. Kingfisher Fly Shop 3. Missoulian Angler Fly Shop

Visit MissoulaNews.com for all Best of Missoula categories and winners.

Missoula Independent

Montana Headwall Winter 2017

Best Store for Mountaineering Gear The Trail Head 2. REI 3. Bob Ward’s Best Store for Skis Gull Ski & Snowboard 2. Bob Ward’s 3. The Trail Head