Missouri Life April/May 2008 by Missouri Life Magazine

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[3] April 2008

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CONTENTS Features

April 2008

50 ❊ Surprising Scuba Diving

Discover underwater wonders and warm, clear water at 6 great diving lakes and springs in southern Missouri. Try river drift diving, too.

60 ❊ Best Taco Stands

Our King of the Road John Robinson tries most of the more than 400 Mexican restaurants along Missouri highways. Find out which one is best.

66 ❊ Union Station

At Kansas City’s Union Station, choose among train models, special exhibits, dinosaur bones at Science City, a planetarium, and an Irish Museum.

78 ❊ Secret Life of a Lawman’s Wife

Jails were Mom-and-Pop shops in Missouri until recently. The little lady cooked, cleaned, and stopped lynchings. Find the jails you can still tour.

84 ❊ Green Communities

We scoured the state to find innovative and unique eco-friendly towns and cities, from one powered by wind to one that composts coffee grounds.

92 ❊ Steve McQueen Days

Slater honors the legendary actor who spent his formative years there with the second annual festival. See where he went to school, and watch his movies.

106 ❊ A Taste of Italia

Come along as our Tasteful Traveler visits The Hill in St. Louis and samples its food heritage, plus recipes for veal, penne borghese, and easy toasted ravioli.

119 ❊ Ste. Genevieve’s French Lessons

Our Missouri Journal explores our French heritage, left by the earliest explorers and settlers in our state.

Departments 27 ❊ All Around Missouri

ANDREW BARTON

72 PWAinGgeEd Beauttuetrying

fl ature’s fly See n at 3 butter ir ls e w pen-a je o 3 d s an house ardens! g

We bring you 94 events and festivals, plus a new Branson display and Jiggle Jam.

46 ❊ Made in Missouri

A distiller at Weston makes eco-friendly vodka.

138 ❊ Artists

See the creations of a Kansas City ceramic tile painter, a St. Louis jeweler, and a Lake of the Ozarks oil and watercolor painter, plus an equine art exhibit at Columbia.

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CONTENTS April 2008

Departments continued

12 ❊ Memo

114 ❊ Missouri Wine

14 ❊ Letters: A Burning Capitol Photo

135 ❊ Trivia: Leading Ladies

How did that greatest generation of women do it?

You tell us about Bingham’s home, those non-existent Warrensburg’s parking meters, Boonville, NASCAR, moving to Missouri, historic bells, and more.

21 ❊ Symbol: The State Dinosaur It’s a hadrosaur from Bollinger County.

23 ❊ Medley

We scout out an international piano competition at Joplin, a restaurant in a cave that’s for sale, a terra cotta bust acquired by a Columbia museum, and a world champion sand sculptor from St. Louis.

96 ❊ Civil War Series: Into The Wild

Irish immigrants from St. Louis settled the forests near Doniphan prior to the war, but when the smoke cleared, they were gone, and nobody knows where.

104 ❊ Dream Homes: Garden Getaways

Homes for sale that have garden escapes at Ste. Genevieve, Porto Cima, and St. Albans.

Pop a cork or unscrew a cap?

Meet Missouri women in politics, sports, and more.

136 ❊ Books: Bedtime Stories

Spark a child’s imagination with Unicorn Races and Tera’s Dawn, by Missouri authors.

146 ❊ Marketplace

Zing into spring with salad dressing, picture-pretty mugs and coasters, and a paddling guide.

148 ❊ Show-Me Health

About 1,200 Missourians await organs to save their lives. Read how a little girl’s tragic accident saved a little boy’s life during National Donate Life Month.

150 ❊ Musings

Our Ozark philosopher doesn’t worry, even when the river outside his door threatens to carry away his canoe. Cover photo: Sophia M. Sachs Butterfly House at St. Louis by Andrew Barton

Special Promotions 16 ❊ Best of Missouri Life Festival

Celebrate the food, wine, art, and cultural heritage of our state. Meet famous Missouri characters.

128 ❊ Ste. Genevieve

Discover the charm of one of the few preserved French Colonial settlements in the country.

. This Issue on MissouriLife com 2008 Civil War Reenactments Find twenty reenactments and encampments around the state, including Stand of Colors: Reenacting the Missouri/Kansas Campaign of 1864 at Kansas City on May 17-18.

Play to Win! Take this issue with you as you sit down to surf the site and play a game with us to win Best of Missouri Life Festival concert tickets to see David Lee Murphy at the Isle of Capri Casino!

At the Pump Missouri’s new ethanol standard recently went into effect statewide. Find out what that means and where biofuels fit into our future.

Missouri Life Lines Sign up for our free e-newsletter! We’ll send short stories and announce new events and Missouri-made products in between issues.

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[7] April 2008

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The Spirit of Discovery 515 East Morgan Street, Boonville, MO 65233 660•882•9898 info@missourilife.com

Publisher Greg Wood

Editorial Editor in Chief Danita Allen Wood Managing Editor & Web Editor Rebecca French Smith Editorial Assistants Lauren Foreman, Stefani Kronk Contributing Writers and Editors BJ Alderman, Traci Angel, John Fisher, Doug Frost, Nina Furstenau, Anita Neal Harrison, Ron W. Marr, Arthur Mehrhoff, John Robinson, Scott Spilky, Laura Valenti, Ann Vernon, Dan Viets Contributing Photographers Chris Bjuland, Bobby Burger, Mike McArthy, Bill Naeger, Brad Reno, Duncan Walker

Art & Production Creative Director Andrew Barton Art Director Shea Bryant Art Director, Special Projects Tina Wheeler

Advertising Senior Account Managers Linda Alexander, 816-582-7720 Sherry Broyles, 800-492-2593, ext. 107 Phillette Harvey, 800-492-2593, ext. 104 Agnieszka Mahan, 417-872-8120 Sales Representative Kristin Witt, 573-268-3909 Advertising Coordinator & Calendar Editor Amy Stapleton, 800-492-2593, ext. 101

Circulation & Administration Circulation Director Karen Ebbesmeyer 800-492-2593, ext. 102 Proofreader & Administrative Assistant Lisa Guese Accounting Lammers & Associates CPAs, P.C. 660-882-6000 Webmaster Insite Advice, www.insiteadvice.com MISSOURI LIFE, Vol. 35, No. 2, April 2008 (USPS#020181; ISSN#1525-0814) Published bimonthly in February, April, June, August, October, and December by Missouri Life, Inc., for $19.99. Periodicals Postage paid at Boonville, MO, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Missouri Life, 515 E. Morgan St., Boonville, MO 65233-1252. © 2008 Missouri Life. All rights reserved. Printed by The Ovid Bell Press, Inc. at Fulton, Missouri.

[8] MissouriLife

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The Spirit of Discovery 515 East Morgan Street, Boonville, MO 65233 660•882•9898 info@missourilife.com

To Subscribe or Give a Gift • Visit MissouriLife.com • Call 800-492-2593 • Or mail a check for $19.99 (for 6 issues) to: Missouri Life 515 East Morgan Street, Boonville, MO 65233-1252

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Marketplace & E-newsletter Find Missouri-made gifts and other Missouri products at our web site, or sign up for Missouri Life Lines, our free e-newsletter, at MissouriLife.com.

Reprints Missouri Life provides reprints on high-quality paper. E-mail info@missourilife.com or call 800-492-2593 for rates.

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Serving all of Missouri. Weddings, events, and much more. No additional fees for traveling to your special occasion.

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EMO MISSOTalUesRBeIhinM d the Stories Telling the

HOW DID THEY DO IT? By Danita Allen Wood, Editor in Chief

My mom just turned seventy-five, and when I think about her life as a young woman, wife, and mother, and how she raised five of us girls—we didn’t have any brothers—on a dairy farm, I am simply in awe. little sisters, ten and eleven years younger than me. I recall an old wringer washer that sat outside. Cooking “dinner,” the noonday meal for us and any men who might be working on the farm at special times as part of hay or silage crews, taking the laundry to town to wash at the Laundromat once a week or so. This must have been after the wringer washer quit. And oh yeah, milking anywhere from forty to eighty cows, in the later years, twice a day. And then getting supper on the table afterward. You might think five girls would have been a lot of help, but we were pretty typical teenagers, I know. I think we waited until we heard the milk barn motor shut off, and then we got busy with

whatever tasks we’d been assigned, perhaps peeling potatoes or washing dishes. I know we didn’t do more than what had been assigned. There must have been a lot of short nights, finishing a dress for some special event, frying the chicken for those picnics at the state fair, baking something special for 4-H, family reunions, or as room mother. Where did she find the time? Sometimes I get busy and wonder how I can possibly keep up with all the tasks in front of me, and then I think of my mom. I don’t have any kind of challenge in front of me compared to what she handled. My life is a piece of cake. Happy Mother’s Day to all our amazing moms!

Some Missouri Life moms: Danita Allen Wood and her mother Marcille Allen, Linda Alexander and her late mother Lena Johnston, Phillette Harvey and her mother Cynthia Rhoads, Tina Wheeler and her mother Margie Maxwell

COURTESY OF MISSOURI LIFE STAFF

The question that pops into my head is “How did she do that?” Up before dawn to get to the milkbarn, in to make breakfast for a big family, and all the chores—feeding the calves, pigs, and all the other animals we had, including sheep, geese, chickens, horses, cats, and dogs, sewing all the clothes for us kids. Teaching us to sew when we got older—we sewed everything from skirts, shirts, coats, and even underwear. Growing a goodly share of all of our food in three different big gardens. Picking berries and making enough jelly to make peanut butter and jelly on toast all winter. I’m sure this just scratches the surface. There was also washing cloth diapers for my

[12] MissouriLife

MEMO 12

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S R E T T E L R YOinUg Opinions & Your Stories Shar

RARE PHOTO FIND When I saw King of the Road, on the capitol’s fire of 1911 (February 2008), I remembered my mother gave me an old 8x10 photo of the fire. This photo is ninety-seven years old. Joe Ferguson, St. Ann

Missouri NASCAR

I was excited to pull my most recent issue of Missouri Life out of my mailbox and see the words “George Caleb Bingham—Follow the Artist’s Footsteps” (February 2008). Eagerly, I turned to the article, which I was happy to see was penned by one of your best and one of my favorite writers, John Robinson. Surely there would be a photo or at least some copy about our Bingham-Waggoner Estate, home of the artist from 1864 to 1870, and perhaps mention of our 1859 Jail and Marshal’s Home, which housed hundreds of women, children, and elderly men imprisoned under the infamous provisions of Order No. 11. (Bingham painted the inflammatory artwork while living in the Bingham-Waggoner Estate, and a copy hangs in the marshal’s office at the jail.) Alas, not a word about either of these sites was to be found in the story. The article was very well done, and I learned many new things about Bingham that I hadn’t known. But I’m certain your readers, who are interested in this fascinating historical figure, would also want to know about and perhaps even visit the estate, located alongside the old Santa Fe Trail at 313 W. Pacific in Independence. The home is open for touring April through October and for annual holiday tours from Thanksgiving weekend through December 30. To learn more about this historical site, visit www.bwestate.org.

Great article on the NASCAR drivers (February 2008), Carl Edwards in particular; but then it kept going and going. Excellent job of capturing the essence of Carl’s career and the bios on the rest of our Missouri team of drivers—and good inside info on NASCAR for those poor folks who haven’t discovered it yet. Gene Baumann, Rocheport

Free Parking In response to an article in your magazine (December 2007) about parking meters in Warrensburg, there are no parking meters in Warrensburg. I have been here for at least ten years, and I haven’t seen any. Matt Gray, Warrensburg

An Overlooked Gem

Janeen Aggen, Independence

We love your magazine—a friend gave us one, as we just moved to Van Buren a year ago. We had been living out of the country and were looking for a rural place, with mountains and water. Well, we landed here in Van Buren, and it has been a true find. It is a great example of a thriving small town. I did not find information about Van Buren on your site and thought you may be interested in this overlooked gem of an area!

Independence Tourism Media Contact

Kyla Oudshoorn, Van Buren

Homesick for Boonville

A New Home

I enjoyed the February (2008) issue of Missouri Life with the Boonville section “Full Steam Ahead.” My hometown is Pilot Grove, so I spent many hours in Boonville as a youngster. I was surprised to see some of my relatives featured, too. In fact, I was homesick after reading it.

Just a short note, to let you know how much we appreciate your magazine. We are currently living in Oregon but have our home up for sale. After it is sold, we plan on making Missouri home. Your magazine offers so many places to see, we can hardly wait. The photography, the stories, and more!

Georgia Degitz, Hannibal

Jack Long, Jefferson, Oregon

COURTESY OF JOE FERGUSON

A Bingham Home

[14] MissouriLife

LETTERS 14

3/5/08 11:23:18 AM

Ring in Another Bell My daughter brings me her Missouri Life magazines, and I enjoy them more and more. The magazine is such a good way to promote all the things we have to be proud of in our state. Your article regarding the history of five church bells still ringing (December 2007) was of special interest to me because I have another church bell for you. My Huntsville Christian Church (Disciples of Christ) has a bell still ringing that was bought by my two great, great grandfathers, Dr. W.H. Taylor and W.T. Rutherford, in 1860, for our first church building. In 1877, we built our second church that is still very much alive today. The bell was moved to our 1877 church that year and still rings. The history tells of my great, great grandfathers riding around one Sunday morning in St. Louis and listening to the church bells ringing. When they heard one that sounded best to them, they bought one like it. The church celebrated its 165th anniversary in October 2007. courtesy of Margaret L. Block

Margaret L. Block, Huntsville

Send Us a Letter

Correction

Fax: 660-882-9899

In Missouri Trivia Branson Biography (October 2007) question 7, the Ozark Beach Dam formed Lake Taneycomo, not Bull Shoals Lake, but the dam is known locally as Powersite Dam. Ozark Beach was a small town near the construction site. The town disappeared almost overnight when dam construction was complete and the workers left.

Make your own memories this spring at

E-mail: info@missourilife.com Address: Missouri Life 515 East Morgan Street Boonville, MO 65233-1252

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t‫ה‬

BEST of

May 2-4 In the Heart of Missouri at Boonville ROSLYN HEIGHTS

F E S T I VA L IT’S A WONDERFUL MISSOURI LIFE, and we invite you to come and celebrate the

Tour one of Boonville’s proudest mansions, now the state headquarters for the Missouri Daughters of the American Revolution. The Queen Anne-style mansion was built in 1895 and in one room honors all the Missourians who played a role in the Revolution.

The best way to cheer yourself up is to try to cheer somebody else up. - Mark Twain THESPIAN HALL

•• •

Mark Twain portrayed by Richard Garey Voices of Boonslick Women Films: Killer Diller and the Worlds Greatest Fair

COOPER COUNTY JAIL Tour the historic Old Cooper County Jail, built in 1848 and the oldest continuously used county jail until its closing in 1978. Meet its most famous prisoner Frank James, brother of Jesse. Frank (portrayed by reenactor) was brought to the jail and charged with a robbery in the county, but sympathetic Boonville citizens raised his bond within a matter of hours.

COURTESY OF MEGAN AINSWORTH; COURTESY OF JERRY JORDAN; COURTESY OF BARNEY COMBS; COURTESY OF JULIUS UDINYIWE

best of it with us. The Best of Missouri Life Festival is a weekend-long celebration of the food, wine, art, music, other products made in Missouri, and the cultural heritage of the state. Multiple venues centered around downtown Boonville and the Missouri Life building will host an art show, wine tasting, cultural heritage speakers, performers, reenactors, displays, and musical entertainers. Check MissouriLife.com for additions and updates. Most events are free, including all performances at Thespian Hall and the Blues Stage.

[16]February MissouriLife [16] 2008

MOLIFE FESTIVAL 16

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PROMOTION

Free Event! Visit MissouriLife.c om for

A Celebration of the Best of Missouri Culture Through Story, Song, and Taste! Mo Informatiroen

KATY TRAIL MUSEUM James Allen demonstrates how to ride a High Wheeler (with a little one for the kids to try out) to the reading of Mark Twain’s “Taming the Bicycle” from his collection of essays, What Is Man? Tour the Katy Boonville Caboose Museum, inside the Missouri-KansasTexas Railroad Caboose, right alongside the Katy Trail and next to the old station house that now houses the Chamber of Commerce and the Museum.

OUTDOOR LOCATIONS COURTESY OF MEGAN AINSWORTH; COURTESY OF JERRY JORDAN; COURTESY OF BARNEY COMBS; COURTESY OF JULIUS UDINYIWE

• •• •• •• ••

Medicine Wagon and Professor Farquar who will also be performing Jesse James ballads Daniel Boone reenactor Wire Making demonstration Food Vendors Pioneer settler Hannah Cole reenactor Native Americans dance Conestoga Wagon, an exact replica of the wagons that went West Calamity Jane reenactor and more to be announced! Civil War reenactors and Cannon firing

“Step right up folks, the greatest one-man show west of the Mississippi is about to begin. It’s a bona fide jim-dandy; absolutely, positively

gtoupurge a r amelancholy!” nteed

Wine Tasting in the Missouri Life Building

[17] April 2008

MOLIFE FESTIVAL 17

3/6/08 1:48:21 PM

PROMOTION

t‫ה‬

BEST of

“Show Me” A Good Time

F E S T I VA L

•• •• •

Wine Tasting (both floors) Enjoy live Instrumental Music Made in Missouri show (main floor) The Regional Cuisines Project will offer Food and Wine Pairings from the Missouri River Valley Art Show, featuring Best of Missouri Hands artists such as Jim Maxwell who will be demonstrating his skill (second floor)

• •

Boonville Pedestrian Bridge, The Rubber Duckies let out in Glasgow that morning float into town on the Missouri River Garden Club Sale

MOLIFE FESTIVAL 18

Heritage Series

•• •• •• • •

The Civil War in Missouri The Amish in Missouri Walt Disney’s time in Missouri Food Heritage of Missouri Traditional American Craft Booths Steve McQueen’s time in Slater King of the Road John Robinson, traveling every mile of state-maintained highway Missourians on the Titanic

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COURTESY OF ART HEIMSOTH; COURTESY OF TINA WHEELER; COURTESY OF MARY BARGE HOAR, COURTEST OF ANDREW JOHNMEYER

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[18] MissouriLife

3/6/08 10:20:08 AM

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BBQ served by The Friends of Historic Boonville Blues Band Henry Clay and the Full-Grown Men Missouri craft Beer and Wine Garden sponsored by Boulevard, Schlafly and Pony Express brewing companies

COURTESY OF ART HEIMSOTH; COURTESY OF TINA WHEELER; COURTESY OF MARY BARGE HOAR, COURTEST OF ANDREW JOHNMEYER

Jazz and Jambalaya! Blues and BBQ!

The Buck Stops Here - Harry S. Truman

[19] April 2008

MOLIFE FESTIVAL 19

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[20] MissouriLife

AD 20

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MISSOU RI SYMBOL Icons of the Show-Me State

STATE DINOSAUR:

HADROSAUR

COURTESY OF MISSOURI SECRETARY OF STATE

DURING THE LATE Cretaceous Period, about sixty to eighty million years ago, dinosaurs roamed parts of southeast Missouri. Fossils found in the state come from what is known as the Chronister site near Glen Allen in Bollinger County. Dan Stewart of the Missouri Geological Survey first identified dinosaur fossils in 1942 in Bollinger County. He was studying clay deposits in the area when he learned the Chronister family had found some large bones while digging a well. Stewart recognized them to be dinosaur bones and was allowed to send the bones to paleontologist Charles Gilmore at the Smithsonian for identification. Gilmore affirmed Stewart’s identification of the fossils as dinosaur bones and co-authored a paper in the Journal of Paleontology with Stewart about the find in 1945. Gilmore died shortly afterward, and the bones were mostly forgotten. The Smithsonian eventually paid the Chronisters fifty dollars for them. Geologist Bruce Stinchcomb purchased the property in the 1970s. He found more dinosaur bones with the assistance of other paleontologists, including teeth, which allowed the dinosaur remains to be correctly identified as belonging to a hadrosaur or duck-billed dinosaur. The name paleontologists have assigned to the Missouri dinosaur is Hypsibema missouriensis. These plant-eating dinosaurs walked on all fours, reached lengths of thirty-five feet, and probably equaled the weight of an elephant. The number and arrangement of their teeth allowed them to feed on tough, fibrous plants. Much of southeast Missouri south of the Ozarks was covered by an arm of the Gulf of Mexico during the late Cretaceous. Researchers have determined that the site where Missouri dinosaur fossils are found was likely a coastal plain then. Fossils of crocodiles, turtles, and fish have also been found at the site. Excavation is continuing under the direction of Guy Darrough and Missouri Ozark Dinosaur Project Inc. The Bollinger County Museum of Natural History houses the material collected from the site; it also contains a laboratory for preparation and study of the material. The board of directors for the Bollinger County Museum of Natural History suggested naming Hypsibema missouriensis the state dinosaur. Representative Rod Jetton sponsored the legislation, which was approved by the legislature and signed by Gov. Bob Holden July 9, 2004. –John Fisher is the author of “Catfish, Fiddles, Mules, and More: Missouri’s State Symbols.”

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[22] MissouriLife

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MISSOURI MEDLEY Noteworth y People and Places

Caveman For Sale NEARLY TWO DECADES

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David Hughes decided to turn an ordinary Ozark cave on his rural Pulaski County property into something special. Five years, countless hours of jackhammering and more than four hundred pounds of welding rods Junior and senior division winners come from countries around the world to compete in the International Piano Competition at Joplin.

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COURTESY OF MISSOURI SOUTHERN

By Lauren Foreman

later, the Caveman Bar-BQ and Steak House Restaurant opened to its first visitors. The restaurant welcomed three hundred people that first night, Hughes remembers, “and that was with no advertising. We fed thirty-five thousand people that first season of less than eight months. “For two little farmers, we feel like we’ve done all right,” David says. He and his wife, Connie, have enjoyed their adventure. “The only catch now is,” David says, “we’ve reached an age where it is time to sell and take a rest.”

CARNEGIE HALL or the Vienna Konzerthaus might boast some big international talent, but so

At seventy, he is looking for someone to take

do the auditoriums on the Missouri Southern State University at Joplin. Every two years, worldclass pianists from countries such as Bulgaria, Canada, Germany, China, Russia, and Taiwan converge on the campus during the Missouri Southern International Piano Competition; this year’s competition will make music from April 21 to April 26. In addition to the cultural diversity of the contestants, this musical event is judged by internationally renowned pianists. Since 1987, the competition has earned an international reputation for fairness, strong organization, and high standards. Not only is the keen competition part of the draw for this event, but so is the cultural exchange between the participants and their Midwestern hosts. Joplin residents open their ears and take in the sounds of the competitors’ home cities with excitement. “It’s that ability to have world-class talent in your backyard,” event attendee and sponsor Bill Gipson says. “Having an event that is headquartered in Joplin, Missouri, without traveling to Chicago or New York or San Francisco, is pretty spectacular.” “The caliber of competitors is higher than ever before,” program director Vivian Leon says. “In the Junior Division, the youngest invited competitor is a ten-year-old boy from California, followed by two twelve-year-old girls, one from Shanghai and one from Beijing.” Child prodigies to say the least, these expertly trained classical pianists learn a thing or two about what it means to be Joplin residents. “Every returnee always asks if he or she can stay with his or her previous host family again,” Vivian says. “Wonderful lifelong friendships are often made between members of the community and the competitors, no matter where they are from.” Serving as host families, board members, committee members, and sponsors, the community plays a vital role in putting this event together. As a nonprofit, tax-exempt organization, the MSIPC is an emblem of the supportive and close-knit structure that Joplin provides. The children really gain from this kind of community character, as it intertwines with the international elements of diversity. All performances are open to the public. Call 417-625-9755 or visit www.mssu.edu/msipc for more information.

over his active role as proprietor of this oneof-a-kind, 225-seat operation. The restaurant perchs one hundred feet above the Gasconade River and opens each year from March through October. Built on the side of a cliff, patrons are shuttled from the parking lot to the restaurant’s lift, which then takes them the rest of the way up to the restaurant’s entrance. Discovered by some state department personnel several years ago, the Caveman has fed people from nearly every nation, as those same government hosts looked for a unique dining experience to share with their guests who come from all over the world. David’s only carefully guarded secrets are his recipes for his barbecue sauce, Tyrannosaurus Steak, Bat Wings (aka chicken wings), and Bats’ Nests (onion blooms), which will be transferred to the new owner. The Caveman Bar-BQ and Steak House is located at 26880 Rochester Road at Richland. The restaurant reopens March 27. Call 573-765-4554 for more information. —Laura L. Valenti

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Missouri Medley

Maudelle makes MU Home A recent acquisition of a terra cotta bust by The Museum of Art and Archaeology at the University of Missouri at Columbia is a notable sculpture, but in a larger sense, the presence of Maudelle also pays tribute to the advancements of black women and signifies their influence on the art world. The subject for this work is Maudelle Bass Weston, a well-known African-American concert dancer. Maudelle was a pioneer in her own right, becoming the first black American to study with the choreographer Lester Horton, among her many other achievements. The dancer’s dramatic facial structure, braids, and earrings create a lifelike image in the clay. Vestiges of the artist’s working method combine with the sitter’s presence to form a powerful sculpture. The bust was sculpted by another black artist Beulah Woodard. This avant-garde artist helped pave the way for other black artists. She was the first black artist to show at the Los Angeles County Museum with her solo exhibition in 1935, and she organized the Los Angeles Negro Art Association in 1937. Along with her colleagues, she championed the placement of art from African countries and the Pacific Rim in California museums. Beulah’s specialty was sculpture; she worked in a variety of media, including terra cotta, bronze, wood, and papier-mâché. She encouraged AfricanAmericans to take pride in their heritage, as she worked to establish an independent identity for black Americans. Dr. Mary Pixley, the museum’s associate curator for European and American art, championed the acquisition of Maudelle. Call 573-882-3591 or Maudelle exemplifies Beulah Woodard’s artistic emphasis on portraying her subjects visit maa.missouri.edu for realistically without abstraction. Woodard died more information. prematurely in an automobile accident.

courtesy of the museum of art and archaeology

By Stefani Kronk

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Missouri Medley

Of Sand And Men Big as campaign promises, but just as fleeting, two gigantic sand sculptures—Mount Rushmore-style—were erected to welcome candidates as they entered Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, for presidential debates. Republican hopefuls had their likenesses etched first, followed by the Democratic Party days later. Choosing shovels and sand compactors rather than dynamite and blasting caps, specialized sand artists like Dan Belcher, a St. Louis native and current resident, left an impressive but temporary mark on history. Dan was part of the team sculpting the gigantic faces. He has been sand sculpting full-time for a decade and currently holds the title of World Champion in solo sand sculpting—a title he has won for three years in a row at the world event in British Columbia. Dan and a partner also clinched the first place title in 2006 and third place in 2007 for the doubles competition. Dan has a degree in landscape architecture from Kansas State University, where he experienced an inaugural foray as a professional sand sculptor. “Every year, the architecture students have a sand castle contest at a man-made beach near campus,” Dan says. “I think I took it a little more seriously than everyone else did.” He admits that he is an anomaly of sorts, as he is one of a few competitors that live in a landlocked state. “Most everyone else I work with is from the coast and lives by the beach,” he says. The twenty-foot-tall artistic renderings of political parties were created outside the Palace Theatre—home to the January presidential debates—and the Myrtle Beach Convention Center. Team Sandtastic from Sarasota, Florida, designed and implemented the sculptures, funded by the Myrtle Beach Area Chamber of courtesy of team sandtastic

Commerce. Part Pietà, part cartoon-character, the statues, aptly named Mt. Myrtle, provided an incredible likeness of the politicians vying for the title of Commander-in-Chief. Visit www.teamsandtastic.com or Dan’s company, www.ampersandworkshop.com for more information. —Stefani Kronk Above: Dan Belcher, in the foreground, assists in carving the Republican Mt. Myrtle out of one thousand tons of sand.

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[26] MissouriLife

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ALL AROUND

MISSOURI

Events in Your Area

April & May

Featured Event

ROMEO AND JULIET April 25-27 and May 1-3, Kansas City. The Kansas City Ballet celebrates its golden anniversary with one of the most popular ballets in the world. This story of star-crossed lovers has inspired music and dance for more than four hundred years. COURTESY OF KENNY JOHNSON

Choreographed by Ib Andersen with the music of Sergei Prokofiev, the performance stars Chelsea Wilcox and Luke Luzicka and is accompanied by the Kansas City Symphony Ballet Orchestra. The Music Hall. 7:30 PM (matinees at 2 PM). $30-$60. 816-931-2232, ext. 375. www.kcballet.org

Northwest & Kansas City Area Stories in Stitches April 4-12, St. Joseph. Exhibit of antique quilts tells the history of quilting. A quilt in progress lets visitors try quilting. Wyeth-Tootle Mansion. 10 AM-4 PM Fri.-Sat.; 1-4 PM Sun. $1.50-$3. 816-232-8471 Rails and Trails April 5, Independence. Colin O’Brien presents a musical journey highlighting songs of the Old West, the railways, and the characters found along the way. National Frontier Trails Museum. 2 PM. $5-$7. 816-325-7575 Jesse James Black Powder Shoot April 5, Kearney. Period-dressed shooters compete in black powder or ball and cap for prizes. Jesse James Farm and Museum. 8 AM registration; 9 AM shoot begins. Free to spectators ($15 to shoot). 816-628-6065

The Musical of Musicals April 11-May 5, Kansas City. Musical spoof of Broadway’s best songwriters tells a classic melodrama story. The Quality Hill Playhouse. 8 PM (some matinees 1 and 3 PM). $24. 816-421-1700 Second Saturdays April 12 and May 10, Lexington. Farmer’s market, vendors, and on May 10, a citywide garage sale. Downtown and throughout the area. 8 AM-3 PM. Free. 660-259-3082 Cemetery Stroll April 26, Weston. Reenactors portray characters. Laurel Hill Cemetery. Donations accepted. 816-640-2909 Girls Just Wanna Have Fun May 1, Higginsville. Visit various stores for demonstrations, education, relaxation, and pampering just for gals. Downtown. 4-8 PM. Free. 660-584-3030

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ALL AROUND MISSOURI

From Everyday to Collectible May 1-31, Independence. Franciscan china exhibit. Bingham-Waggoner Estate. 10 AM-4 PM Mon.-Sat.; 1-4 PM Sun. $2-$5. 816-461-3491 Victorian Dance May 2, Lexington. Friends of the Anderson House demonstrate Victorian-era dancing. Battle of Lexington State Historic Site. 6-9 PM. Free. 660-259-4654 Apple Blossom Festival May 2-3, St. Joseph. Concerts, children’s activities, and a parade. Felix Street Square and Civic Center Park. 5-11 PM Fri.; 10 AM-5 PM Sat. Free. 816-261-0422 Brookside Art Annual May 2-4, Kansas City. One of the top art shows in the country featuring a variety of art, children’s activities, and music. 63rd and Brookside. 5-9 PM Fri.; 10 AM-9 PM Sat.; 11 AM-5 PM Sun. Free. 816-523-5553

John Brown May 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, Kansas City. The Lyric brings history to life in this world premiere opera about the truly epic abolitionist, John Brown, and the tumultuous days of Lawrence, Kansas in the 1850s. Lyric Opera. 8 PM Fri. and Sat.; 7:30 PM Mon. and Wed.; 2 PM Sun. $17-$75. 877-673-7252

Come Experience History with Us

Old-Fashioned Wheelbarrow Days!

First-Time Fest | KANSAS CITY’S Jiggle Jam festival will float along the clouds of childlike imagination, while bringing “music to parents’ ears.” Featuring award-winning entertainers such as They Might Be Giants, Tom Chapin, John McCutcheon, and hometown picks like Mr. Stinky Feet, the festivities on May 24-25 will be set to sound. From princess and hero transformations to music lessons and crafts, there truly is something special for everyone. Jiggle Jam attracts adults with music spanning every genre from classical to rock, while luring preteens and children with arcade games, Lego tables, trains, and tea parties. Through activities provided by the nonprofit children’s museum Wonderscope, children can bring their fascination to life with

By Lauren Foreman

face painting, watercolor works, and crafts. The Kansas City Symphony will also provide a musical “petting zoo,” where children can feel musical instruments and explore the sounds they make. Jiggle Jam will be held at Crown Center Square at 25th and Grand in Kansas City. Admission is $5 per day for adults, $10 for children ages 2-18 ($8 in advance,) and free for children under two. Call 816-997-8511 or visit www.kcjigglejam.com for more information.

COURTESY OF K.C. JIGGLE JAM

Where the lake meets the trail

March 31-April 5 ~ Best Decorated Wheelbarrow Contest ~ ~ “Step Back in Time” Window Displays ~

Cruise Night on the Historic Square! Second Saturdays Starting May 10

Catch “the big one” on Truman Lake, take in the state’s largest downtown square or cycle the Katy Trail. Visit soon ... an adventure awaits!

Clinton Main Street, Inc. • Clinton, MO 660-885-2121 • www.clintonmomainstreet.com

Henry County Museum Opens April 1! Special Exhibit: “The Way They Worked” April 1 through July 5

MISSOURI

Museum hours: 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Mon.-Sat. 203 W. Franklin Street, Clinton, MO Call 660-885-8414 for more information.

Saturday, April 5 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

Historic Building Walking Tours

30-minute tours leave on the hour from the museum.

[28] MissouriLife

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2/7/08

5:50 PM

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All Around Missouri

Northeast & St. Louis Area

Top of the Riverfront Winemaker Dinner April 28, St. Louis. Mount Pleasant’s winemaker hosts a multi-course meal with wine tasting and gorgeous views of the city. The Millennium Hotel. 7 pm, reception at Palm Court; 7:30 pm, dinner. $74.99. 800-467-9463

Unrefined Light April 1-May 9, St. Charles. Exhibit features work that incorporates the quirky images created by plastic “toy” cameras. Foundry Art Centre. 10 am-5 pm Tues.-Sat.; noon-4 pm Sun. Free. 636-255-0270

What is Musical Color? April 2, St. Louis. Symphony performance. Powell Symphony Hall. 6 pm. $15.50-$105. 314-534-1700 Historical Children’s Festival April 12, St. Charles. Hands-on activities including toys, games, cow milking, quill pen writing, costumed reenactors, and tour the museum. First Missouri State Capitol State Historic Site. 10 am-5 pm. Free. 636-940-3322 Spring for Kids! April 19, Webster Groves. Local businesses host special events to benefit Edgewood Children's Center and Epworth Children and Family Services. Old Webster Historic District. 10 am-5 pm. Free. 314-961-8810 An Evening with the Stars April 26, Revere. Telescopes will be available for viewing, astronomy program, and refreshments. Battle of Athens State Historic Site. 6:30 pm. Free. 660-877-3871

Grand South Grand House and Garden Tour April 19-20, St. Louis. Tour showcases special celebrity home, new “historic” building, the Magic Chef Mansion, and an Italianate Mansion. Starts at Tower Grove Park. 11 am-5 pm. $15-$18. 314-773-4844 COCAcabana: Fully Animated April 26, St. Louis. Annual spring fundraiser featuring silent and live auctions, cocktails, dinner, and dancing. COCA parking lot. $175-$400. 314-725-6555 Mosaic Natural Area Hike April 26, Sullivan. Join park naturalist on a guided, threemile hike through 831 acres of river bottoms and glades and see rare spring flowers blooming and the animals that live there. Meramec State Park. 9 am-3 pm. Free. 573-468-8155

A Treasure Trove of Books May 1-4, Des Peres. Largest book fair in the Midwest featuring hard cover and paperback books, videos, CDs, DVDs, sheet music, and rare books. West County Center. 4-10 pm Thurs.; 10 am-9:30 pm Fri.; 9 am-9:30 pm Sat.; 11 am-6 pm Sun. Free ($10 Thurs.). 314-993-1995 Valley of Flowers Festival May 2-4, Florissant. Culturally diverse entertainment, exhibits, arts, crafts, flea market, plant sale, vintage baseball games, dog show, and parade. Florissant Valley Park and Knights of Columbus Park. Noon-10 pm Fri.; 10 am-10 pm Sat.; noon-8 pm Sun. Free. 314-837-0033 Fiber Arts and Spring Planting Festival May 3, Defiance. Fiber arts exhibits, demonstrations, and plants. Boonesfield Village. 9 am-5 pm. $4-$7. 636-798-2005 Round Barn Blues May 3, Kirksville. Variety of blues musicians perform. Round Barn. 4-11 pm. $15. 660-665-2760

Courtesy of Zane Donaho

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[31] April 2008

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All Around Missouri

Bluegrass Festival May 15, Kirksville. A wide variety of bluegrass musicians perform. NEMO Fairgrounds. All day. $10 and up. 660-665-7172 Maifest May 17-18, Hermann. Traditional German festival featuring winery tours and tasting, music, and food. Throughout town. 8:30 am-7:30 pm Sat.; 10 am-6 pm Sun. Free (cellar tours $1-$2.50). 800-909-9463 Celebrating Women in Arts May 21, St. Louis. Ceremony and cocktail reception honoring women dedicated to advancing the arts. Sheldon Concert Hall. 6-8 pm. 314-289-1523 Shakespeare Festival May 23-June 15, St. Louis. Pre-performance Green Show featuring dancers, musicians, educational lectures, and mini-play for children followed by performance of a classic Shakespeare play. East side of Art Hill. 6:30 pm Green Show; 8 pm play. Free. 314-531-9800 Ragtime Rally May 29, St. Louis. Ragtime musicians highlight music by women composers, silent auction, historic cars, and a mechanical music display. Scott Joplin House State Historic Site. 11 am-6 pm. Free. 314-340-5790

Southeast Storytelling Festival April 4-6, Cape Girardeau. Featuring four of the nation’s best storytellers along with six storytellers from the Midwest. Riverfront area. 9 am-9 pm Fri.; 10 am-9 pm Sat.; 10 am-3:30 pm Sun. $20 weekend pass. 800-777-0068 Spring Wildflower Event April 5 and 19, Salem. Study guide and hands-on wildflower search led by park naturalist. Montauk State Park. 9-11:30 am. Free. 573-548-2201

Art Expo April 19, Neosho. Speakers and demonstrations. Lampo Community Building. 9 am-4 pm. $12. 417-781-3839 Wildflower Hike April 19, Patterson. Join a park naturalist and learn about many types of wildflowers. Sam A. Baker State Park at the Mudlick Trailhead. 11 am. Free. 573-856-4514 Brass Quintet Concert April 21, Sullivan. High School Performing Arts Theatre. 7 pm. Free. 573-468-2878

Fishing for the Stars April 12, Salem. Professional storyteller spins interesting yarns about the history of the Ozarks, folklore, astronomy, fish, and animals. Montauk State Park outdoor amphitheater. 7 pm. Free. 573-548-2225

Old Dillard Town Picnic May 10, Davisville. Historic demonstrations and musicians give this event the flavor of a picnic held during the early 1900s. Dillard Mill State Historic Site. Free. 573-244-3120

An Old-Time Melodrama April 12-13, Rolla. Musical comedy reminiscent of performances on the showboats. Leach Theatre at UMR. 8 pm Sat.; 2 pm Sun. $18-$28. 573-341-4219

Hummingbird Banding Demonstration May 10, Salem. Get a close-up look at the ruby-throated hummingbird with a master bird bander. Montauk State Park. Noon-4 pm. Free. 573-548-2225

Dogwood-Azalea Festival April 17-20, Charleston. Tour six-mile trail, quilt show, arts, crafts, piano concerts, and toy train exhibit. Throughout town. Free (except special events). 573-683-6509

ArtsCape May 17, Cape Girardeau. Street painting festival, children’s art tent, petting zoo, fine arts, and crafts. Capaha Park. 10 am-6 pm. Free. 573-334-9233

Rent. Buy. History. 1920’s restored brick loft building in the Historic Meatpacking District. Rezoned C2/HP. In process to be Columbia’s first private LEED Certified Building, with many Green features. Residential Lofts and Retail Spaces are available now! 18,000 sq. ft. of commercial space is available over two floors. Prime exposure on two street fronts in Columbia’s Central City District.

More Information: website: www.faystreetlofts.com email: brian@faystreetlofts.com For Condo Sales Brent Gardner ReMax Boone Realty 573.489.1900 573.876.2828

For Apartment Leasing Info Callahan & Galloway Fifth/Locust Columbia, MO 65201 573.442.0828 [32] MissouriLife

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[33] April 2008

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All Around Missouri

Spring Garden Walk May 17-18, Ste. Genevieve. Speakers on landscape architecture, plant and herb sale, and tour local gardens. Throughout town. 10 am-4 pm Sat.; 11 am-3 pm Sun. Free ($6 to see speaker). 800-373-7007 Upper Current River Pow Wow May 23-25, Salem. Tribal drumming and dancing. Pow Wow Grounds. 1 pm Fri.; 9 am Sat.-Sun. $2-$3. 573-729-2233 Saturday in the Park May 24, Caruthersville. Enjoy a day in the park with vendors, food, games, and car show. England Park. 10 am-2 pm. Free. 573-333-1222 Fort D Living History May 26, Cape Girardeau. The Turner Brigade will perform rifle and artillery drills, civilians demonstrate womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Civil War-era clothing and cooking, and information on Civil War equipment and weaponry. Fort D. 9 am-4 pm. Free. 573-335-1631 KingKat Tournament May 30-31, New Madrid. Fish fry, kids fishing and archery tournament, car show, arts, crafts, and the fishing tournament (qualifying round to the Cabelaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tournament). Downtown. All day. Free. 877-748-5300

Southwest World-Fest April 3-May 4, Branson. Music and dancing from around the world featuring the performance of Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Feet of Fire. Silver Dollar City. 10 am-6 pm Mon.-Fri.; 9 am-7 pm Sun. 800-475-9370 ALS Casino Night and Benefit Gala April 4, Springfield. Benefit gala featuring dancing, food, Vegas-style gaming, and live and silent auctions. Oasis Inn and Convention Center. $60. 417-886-5003 Home and Business Expo April 5, Aurora. More than fifty businesses showcase their products. Pate Early Childhood Center. 10 am-3 pm. Free. 417-678-4150 Business Expo April 12, Anderson. Variety of booths featuring local businesses and their products and services. McDonald County High School. 9 am-3 pm. $1. 417-845-8200 Bison Hike April 12, Mindenmines. Join a park naturalist for a closer look at North Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest land mammal, the bison, and learn about habitat, food, and behavior. Prairie State Park. Free. 417-843-6711

The Spring Frolic April 19, Ash Grove. Tour the Nathan Boone home, live period music, and see a game of base, one of the historic ancestors of baseball. Nathan Boone Homestead State Historic Site. Free. 417-751-3266 Cherry Blossom Festival April 24-27, Marshfield. Cherry Blossom tea, haunted tour, horseshoe tournament, cherry pie contest, and gospel music concert. Activity Center and other venues throughout town. 7 am-7:30 pm Thurs.; 10 am-7 pm Fri.; 7 am-7 pm Sat.; 9 am-2:30 pm Sun. Free (except special events). 417-859-2460 Earth Day April 26, Cassville. Foresters, Smokey Bear, souvenirs, videos, and informational booths. Roaring River State Park. 9 am-4 pm. Free. 417-847-3742 Jazz Singer Concert May 2, Springfield. Karrin Allyson performance. Gillioz Theatre. 8 pm. $20-$30. 888-476-7849 Ye Olde Mining Days May 2-3, Aurora. Crafts, entertainment, and items from the early mining days of the area. Oak Park. 9 am-5 pm Fri.-Sat. Free. 417-678-3210

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[34] MissouriLife

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Marshal

Marshall M I S S O U R I

Grand Homes

Antiques

In the heartland of the nation, Marshall is home to folks who believe hospitality is their calling. Enjoy a round of golf, a stroll in our historic neighborhoods, a stay in quaint bed and breakfasts. Visit the Jim the Wonder Dog Park and learn about our most famous canine citizen. Visit these local shops and sites: Adventure Quest Kids Extraordinary clothes for extraordinary kids!

369 SOUTH ODELL ................... 660-886-9611

Adventure Quest Travel

2007 Uniglobe Franchisee of the Year

MARSHALL MO ........................660-886-3675

Comfort Inn - Marshall Station

Winner of the Platinum Hospitality Award.

Rich History

1356 WEST COLLEGE...............660-886-8080

Court Street Classics Antiques & Collectibles Hours: Mon. - Fri. 10-5:30; Sat. 10-5; Sun. 1-5 69 SOUTH LAFAYETTE ............660-886-2260

Nicholas Beazley Aviation Museum

Open 2008 featuring antique airplanes & displays from historic aviation school and factory. 1985 SOUTH ODELL .................660-886-2630

PahloArt Center & Kazoos

Featuring 20 artists in 15 gallery rooms as well as Kazoos children’s hands-on art center. 868 SOUTH BRUNSWICK . 660-831-1000

Rod’s Hallmark Store

Hospitality

A store for you to enjoy!

941 SOUTH CHEROKEE ...........660-886-4412

Square Corner Gift Shop

Custom Framing, bridal registry, kitchen gadgets 72 NORTH JEFFERSON ............660-886-3716

3 Friends

Mastectomy Products & Nursing Uniforms

161 SOUTH BENTON ..........660-831-5304

Wood & Huston Bank

Four locations in Marshall to serve you.

27 EAST NORTH ST .......660-886-6825

www.visitmarshallmo.com MarshallCVB0408.indd 1

2/28/08 5:26:21 PM

ALL AROUND MISSOURI

Movie and Museum | Wildflower Hike May 3, Mindenmines. Join the staff for a walk on the tall grass prairie. Prairie State Park. Free. 417-843-6711 Dogwood Car Show May 10, Cassville. Parade and display of cars and trucks. Roaring River State Park. 9:30 AM. Free. 417-847-2539 Plumb Nellie Arts and Crafts Festival May 16-17, Branson. More than 150 artisans exhibit the Ozark traditions of fine handmade crafts and an outrageous dog show. Downtown. 9 AM-6 PM Fri.-Sat.; 9 AM-4 PM Sun. Free. 888-322-2786 Arts, Crafts, and Classic Car Show May 16-17, Forsyth. Juried arts and crafts, more than 100 classic cars, live entertainment, and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s activities. Historic Shadow Rock Park. 9 AM-6 PM. Free. 417-546-2741 Fiber Fair May 17, Marshfield. Animal exhibits, demonstrations including sheep shearing, weaving, quilting, and lace making, childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crafts, handmade clothing fashion show, quilt block contest, and plant sale. Webster County Fairgrounds. 10 AM-4 PM. Free. 417-859-7840

ALL ABOARD the Titanic Branson! In its 2008 season, the museum attraction commemorates the ten-year anniversary of Titanicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1998 Academy Award win with a movie exhibit. Still number one at the box office and boasting eleven Oscars, this film pulls viewers into the frigid water and tragic story. One foot follows the other on a journey back in time to the year 1912. Museum guests are handed their boarding passes, marking their new identities as one of the original passengers aboard the RMS Titanic. Visitors can see the uniquely beautiful, heart-shaped, blue sapphire necklace and imagine Roseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s face as they view her floorlength pink coat and mesmerizing red dress that helped paint the time period. The movie revealed an amazing part of history. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You must remember it took three

May 30-31, 2008

Cabelaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s King Kat National Qualifying Tournament

By Lauren Foreman

years to build her, and in five days she was gone,â&#x20AC;? Titanic Branson co-owner Mary Kellogg Joslyn says. Visit www.titanicbranson.com or call 417334-9500 for more information.

COURTESY OF TITANIC BRANSON

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All Around Missouri

Central The Hound of the Baskervilles April 1-6, Clinton. Sherlock Holmes murder mystery. Delozier Building. 7:30 pm Tues.-Sat.; 2 pm Sun. $6-$10. 660-885-6828 How They Worked April 1-July 5, Clinton. Displays pertaining to â&#x20AC;&#x153;how they workedâ&#x20AC;? featuring a door-to-door salesman, Tupperware in the 1950s, and a carpenter. Henry County Museum. 10 am-4 pm Mon.-Sat. $3. 660-885-8414 Irish Music Concert April 3, Columbia. Irish singer and storyteller Len Graham, from a small village in County Armagh, Ireland, brings his humorous yarns and wonderful songs of Irish life to mid-Missouri. Unity Center. 7 pm. $8-$12. 573-442-2048

Pake McEntire Show April 5, Versailles. Country music show featuring singing, fiddle playing, and a few family stories. Royal Theatre. 7 pm. $5-$10. 573-378-6226

Spring and Garden Show April 19, Blackwater. Plants, garden supplies, herbs, and hanging baskets. Downtown. All day. Free. 660-846-4567

Blues and Honky-Tonk Jam April 6-May 25 (Sundays only), Rocheport. Family-friendly music jam. General Store. 1-4 pm. Free. 573-698-2282

Dirt Road Rascals April 19, Columbia. Local group performs family-friendly country music with an â&#x20AC;&#x153;Opryâ&#x20AC;? flair. Hazel Kinderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lighthouse Theatre. $10. 573-474-4040

One-Act Play Festival April 9-12, Columbia. Variety of one-act plays. Macklanburg Playhouse at Stephens College. 7:30 pm. $6-$8. 573-876-7199 Big Muddy Hike April 12, Arrow Rock. Guided tour on Lewis and Clark Trail. Meet at the wildlife refuge parking lot. 10 am, 1:30 and 3 pm. Free. 660-837-3231

Yesterday April 4, Jefferson City. A tribute to the Beatles. Miller Performing Arts Center. 7 pm. $8-15. 573-632-3444

Devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Icebox Wild Cave Tours April 15-May 16, Columbia. Adventure-style wild cave tour. Call for registration. Rock Bridge Memorial State Park. Some fees apply. 573-449-7402

Irish/Celtic Festival April 5, Cole Camp. Parade, German singers, beer garden, live music, and dancing. Historic Downtown. 1 pm-midnight. Free. 660-668-2295

Seascapes April 18-20, 25-27, Fulton. Witty play. Cutlip Auditorium. 8 pm Fri.-Sat.; 2 pm Sun. $7-$10. 573-592-4281

Beautification Day April 19, Knob Noster. Join one of three teamsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the litter gitters, the trail detectives, and the oxygen plantersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;â&#x20AC;&#x2018;to help clean up the park. Knob Noster State Park. Free. 660-563-2463 Golden Valley Bluegrass Jamboree May 1-4, Clinton. Bands from 5 states entertain the whole family. Lester Foster Music Park. 7-10 pm Thurs.; noon-11 pm Fri.-Sat.; 9:30 am-2:30 pm Sun. $5-$32. 417-257-8863 Buzz May 1-June 21, Jefferson City. Photography exhibit that portrays the intricate beauty of insects by photographer Donna Brunet. Elizabeth Rozier Gallery. 10 am-4 pm Tues.Sat. Free. 573-751-2854

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[38] MissouriLife

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Beginning

Every War Has a

Missouri saw the first Civil War battle, was the site of more battles than all but two other states, and saw some of the most vicious guerrilla action along our border with Kansas before the war ever began. Written for novices and Civil War buffs alike, The Civil War’s First Blood: Missouri, 1854-1861 outlines in great detail Missouri’s role early in the war from the first battle at Boonville to the battles at Carthage, Wilson’s Creek, Athens, Lexington, and Belmont, all in 1861. The authors introduce all of the early Missouri Civil War figures, such as Nathaniel Lyon, Sterling Price, and a young Ulysses S. Grant through 143 photographs and illustrations.

By James Denny and John Bradbury, Missouri Life, Inc., 144 pages, 143 illustrations, softcover, $29.95 plus $2.24 tax, $7.50 shipping & handling. To order, call 800-492-2593 or visit MissouriLife.com. [39] April 2008

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All Around Missouri

Kids Free Fishing May 3, Lebanon. Exhibits, demonstrations, fishing, and lunch. Bennett Spring State Park. Free. 417-532-4338 Lake Area Chorale Concert May 4, Versailles. Local talent performs a vocal concert. Royal Theatre. 3 pm. Free. 573-378-6226 From Sea to Shining Sea May 6, Jefferson City. Performance by Lake Area Chorale. Capitol Rotunda. Noon. Donation of canned goods accepted. 573-964-6326 Garden and Missouri Products Show May 10, Arrow Rock. Bedding plants, trees, lawn and patio furniture, garden containers, specialty foods, Missourimade arts and crafts, and information on agri-tourism. Old Schoolhouse. 9 am-5 pm. Free. 660-837-3469 May Fest May 10, Blackwater. Antiques, crafts, and food. Downtown. 9 am-5 pm. Free. 660-846-4567 Mai Fest May 10, Cole Camp. Festival featuring children’s activities, parade, winding of the May Pole, German food and music, and dancing. Historic Downtown. 10 am-midnight. Free. 660-668-2295

Spring Dance May 10, Linn Creek. Big Band-style music performed by the Lake Jazz Band with dancing and refreshments. Camden County Museum. 7-10 pm. $6. 573-346-7191 Stars Under the Stars May 17, Sedalia. Watch the 1955 animated classic Lady and the Tramp under the stars. Bothwell Lodge State Historic Site. Free. 660-827-0510 Motorcycle and Car Show May 17, St. Robert. Motorcycles, cars, live bands, and vendors. Community Center. 11 am-midnight. $5. 573-528-0300 Newcomers/Longtimers Home Tour May 17, Sunrise Beach. Benefit home tour. Porto Cima area. 10 am-4 pm. $25. 573-365-9985 Mayflowers and Kite Tails May 20, Sedalia. Bring your kite and join the River Breezes Kiting Club featuring kite displays, flying demonstrations, and soap-bubble blowing. Bothwell Lodge State Historic Site. Free. 660-827-0510 Jazz Harpist May 20, Jefferson City. Jan Aldridge Clark. Miller Performing Arts Center. 7 pm. $8-$15. 573-632-3444

Bluegrass Pickin' Time May 22-25, Dixon. More than 40 shows with 15 bands perform family-friendly concerts, jam sessions, crafts, and food. Carol’s Memorial Bluegrass Music Park. $8-$35. 573-759-3544 Natural Tunnel Hike May 24, Lebanon. Join park staff for a 7.5-mile hike featuring wildflowers, glades, and geologic formations. Bennett Spring State Park Natural Tunnel Trailhead. 9:30 am. Free. 417-532-3925 FREE LISTING AND MORE EVENTS Visit MissouriLife.com for even more great events all around the state. PLEASE NOTE: Event plans sometimes change. Call before traveling. To submit an event: Editors choose events for publication in the magazine, space permitting, but all submissions go onto the web site. Submit events well in advance. Please make sure there is a contact phone number with your event. Visit MissouriLife.com and fill out the form, e-mail amy@missourilife.com, fax 660-882-9899, or send announcement to Missouri Life, 515 E. Morgan St., Boonville, MO 65233

Your Natural Destination for Outdoor Adventure When looking for outdoor adventure and more, Harrison has it all. Situated in the Ozark Mountains along the Buffalo National River, Harrison offers prime swimming, fishing, canoeing, hiking and hunting opportunities. It’s also the starting point for eight motorcycling routes for scenic mountainside rides. Don’t forget to hit Harrison’s historic downtown for shopping, dining and affordable lodging. For more information, call 1-888-283-2163 or visit www.HarrisonArkansas.org

arrison A R K A N S A S

Adventure Awaits You!

[40] MissouriLife

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Put more history in your ride through history this June Missouri Humanities Councilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Entertainment!â&#x20AC;? Chautauqua June 25-30 Carthage & Webb City Featuring performances & programs on Walt Disney, P.T. Barnum, Thomas Edison & Margaret Mitchell Special feature: Debra Connerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;Margaret Mitchell and Gone With The Windâ&#x20AC;? at Webb Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic Route 66 Theatre, June 29 For more information: 417-358-2667 or www.powersmuseum.com Also in June: Carthage Acoustic Music Festival June 13 & 14 Produced in cooperation with the Carthage Convention and Visitors Bureau www.visit-carthage.com

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one? A least I’m doing something, in some small way, for the planet,’ ” he says. The packaging is earth-friendly, too. Bottles are made from 85 percent recycled glass and capped with a unique closure, a flip-top stopper. A postage-paid envelope is included with the bottle, and after one finishes the last sip, the stopper can be returned to the company for reuse, and in turn, the company donates one dollar for each returned closure to an environmental project in the 360 Close the Loop campaign. The labels are made with 100 percent post-consumer waste paper and are printed with soy-based inks. The cardboard transport boxes are designed to be reused by customers. Made from 100 percent recycled materials and featuring a lid and handles, the boxes are ideal for use as file boxes, moving, or storage. Even the 360 web site is powered by renewable energy, such as wind. Billboard advertising is not fodder for the landfills. Instead, 360’s biodegradable billboards are taken down and converted into fun, environmentally friendly accessories. The products range from wine bags and reusable grocery bags to wallets and evening clutches. The billboards and accessories are all 100 percent biodegradable. After a shelf life of about four years, they

By Stefani Kronk

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[50] MissouriLife

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The repurposed Oronogo mine appeals to divers because it is an exclusive haven where boat traffic is eliminated, and unlike other area lakes, Blue Water Lake focuses totally on diving. Opposite: Dave Martin from Jefferson City prepares to enter one of Missouri’s caves. Cave diving requires specialized training and equipment.

COURTESY OF DWAIN GARDNER; COURTESY OF MARSHALL HILL

GATHERING AROUND THEIR EQUIPMENT, a small group of divers perform one more safety check before their sixty-foot dive. Regulators, hoses, masks, and neoprene suits slide on and into place. Like a creature from the deep, they walk out into the water, slip on their fins, and submerse themselves, leaving only ripples and telltale bubbles on the surface. Instead of the crystalline waters of the Caribbean, these divers are going into the deep of Table Rock Lake. With more than 275,000 acres of lakes, waterways, and rivers, there are a plethora of great dive sites throughout the state, catering to all levels of divers from the novice to the highly experienced and specialtytrained. But before donning a wet suit, the first step is to become certified at a Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) or National Association of Underwater Instructors (NAUI) dive center in the state. Finding a PADI- or NAUI-certified center in Missouri is not like searching for the lost city of Atlantis. Rather, Missouri has about twenty certified shops that teach a range of courses from introduction to scuba to advanced certification, underwater photography, and night diving. The curriculum for open-water certification usually consists of classroom instruction coupled with pool time and an open-water dive. Dwain Gardner, a PADI master diver trainer and owner of Captain Nemo’s Dive Shop at Columbia, says that location is a key factor in determining dive sites in the state. “In the northern part of the state, lakes are, in essence, bodies of water on top of farmland, and you can’t see your hand in front of your face,” Dwain says. “I think that’s what a lot of people think of when they think of Missouri lakes. “People think of the Lake of the Ozarks, and then they ask themselves,

‘What are they down there scuba diving for?’ The water is not the type that most people associate with diving. Rather, it is very murky, because of sediment and algae and therefore difficult to see.” True, often the thought of scuba diving in Missouri conjures up images of cloudy, muddy waters; slimy bottoms; and catfish the size of Volkswagen cars. But as Dwain puts it, “When you get down to south Missouri and you dive in areas like Table Rock, Bull Shoals, and Taneycomo, it’s a rock bottom so the water is quite clear. Diving in southern Missouri is the key.” There are some differences between fresh-water diving and diving in the ocean. Mainly, buoyancy plays a factor as divers are more buoyant in salt water and require extra weight to stay submerged. In addition, there is a greater variety of plant and animal life in the ocean. However, there are benefits to lake diving. There are less potentially dangerous plant and animal life, and in general, there are no tides or currents with which to contend. Although people can scuba dive throughout the year, the typical Missouri dive season starts in mid-May and goes through the end of September. “Some people go earlier in the season, and some will dive later,” Dwain says. “It’s easier to go later in the year than it is to go earlier because later in the year the lakes have had all summer to warm up, and it takes a long time for them to cool down. So you can dive into October without lots of neoprene, and the water stays surprisingly warm.” Diving on the fringes of the season offers better visibility because the algae blooms that occur during the summer are curbed in the cooler weather. Scuba diving in Missouri is not just a precursor to ocean diving, Dwain says. “Lake diving in Missouri is a good place to keep your skills up, but it’s also fun. It’s not just ‘I’m going to practice here so I can go somewhere else.’ ”

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best of missouri

Tim Taylor, from Pilot Grove, has been scuba diving in Missouri since 1991 and averages about forty dives a year, but he claims that he’s “lucky to get in one saltwater dive a year.” He believes there are benefits to diving in Missouri. “Because of the conditions here, the water can silt up, and suddenly, you might not be able to see,” he says. “It makes your skill levels so much greater than those people that only dive in the ocean. You gain confidence in your equipment and in your skills. So after a few times diving in Missouri, when you go to those dive destinations, you look like a pro.” For those that might be hesitant about suiting up, Dwain offers some advice on becoming acquainted with the Show-Me State’s dive sites. “The easiest way for people to get involved is to go to their local dive shop and sign up for one of their trips,” he says. “You have someone with you that knows what they’re doing. It’s a chance to meet other divers, and it’s just more fun than doing it with just your buddy. You have camaraderie, but you also have somebody there that knows where everything is. They know where to go to rent the boats, they know where to get the tanks filled, they know where the dive sites are … it makes it a lot simpler.” For those that want to blaze their own trails, Dwain says the most important factor in selecting a dive site in Missouri is picking a place that is within your expertise and comfort level. “Pick a place that looks like fun,” he says. “If you pick a place that doesn’t look like fun, you’re not going to have fun.” Here are several southern Missouri dive sites for a variety of experience levels recommended by scuba divers and dive shop owners.

Oronogo’s Oddities In its heyday, the Oronogo Circle mine at Oronogo, nine miles north of Joplin, was reported to be the largest open-pit lead mine in the world. After it was closed in 1950, a combination of groundwater and natural springs

courtesy of dwain gardner

From left: Divers in Norfork Lake, which straddles the Missouri and Arkansas state line, float the red and white flag required to let those above know that they are there. Rainbow trout call Bennett Spring home.

converted the 230-foot chasm into a fourteen-acre lake, dubbed “Blue Water Lake.” But it was John Mueller who converted it to a landlocked diver’s paradise. John, a seasoned scuba veteran who has been diving for almost half a century, used the man-made features in the mine coupled with his vast experience to transform this abandoned pit into a diver’s dream of convenience and accessibility. A road formerly used by miners gradually slopes into the water, creating an ideal entry area. Additionally, old roads that circle to the bottom of the mine create different floor levels in the lake, making natural depth demarcations. John built underwater dive platforms and added descent lines to aid divers in the decompression process. He also added viewing attractions, including a six-passenger Airostar airplane, boats, and cars. These sunken points of interest also provide a home to fish that he stocks such as koi, carp, and bluegill. Other oddities include a concrete gorilla, a statue of an elephant, and a desktop computer setup. Because of Oronogo’s layout, there are diverse environments within the lake, which cater to every level of diver, from novice to advanced. Oronogo offers deep dives as well as overhead environments—situations where a diver’s direct access to a surface is blocked by a structure. These environments pose inherent issues and are dangerous for those without specific skills and knowledge; therefore, overhead environments require advanced training and additional certification before entering. One such dive is the Four Doors. This cavern, approximately the size of a house, can be accessed by one of four large archways. Originally used to house the mules, then the trucks, this cavern leads into a small niche, once home to the blacksmith’s shop. A visually stunning dive that doesn’t require cave certification is the Horseshoe Chimney. This vertical shaft is approximately ten to twelve feet in diameter entered at a depth of about fifty feet. Divers ascend to the surface through spring-fed, turquoise-blue water, following a halo of natural light, with their bubbles rising above them. John operates a dive shop and scuba school on the premises. This is a

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Divers pause for a safety stop after completing a cave dive at Bennett Spring. The view from this location is stunning with the sunlight filtering through the cold, clear spring water.

courtesy of dwain gardner

convenient place for getting tanks refilled, replacing a broken strap, or renting needed equipment. In front of the dive shop, a patio with benches and tables provides a place to snack and relax between dives. A gear rinse hose, tables for equipment, changing rooms, showers, and bathrooms make this a diver’s dream. Because of Oronogo’s depth, John, a PADI course director, teaches technical diving courses, such as mixed gas. For advanced divers trained in both cave and deep water submersions, Blue Water Lake has given up one of her secrets from her mining days. The Ozark Cave Diving Alliance discovered a steam locomotive in 2004 at a depth of 165 feet and approximately 500 feet inside one of the shafts. Guided tours of the train site are available. Below the thermocline (a sharp temperature variation between two layers of water) at approximately twenty-five to thirty feet, visibility reaches thirty or more feet. Surface temperature reaches approximately seventy degrees in the summer. Below thermocline, the water remains forty-five to fifty degrees year-round, and a well-fitting wet suit is necessary. Call 417-673-2724 or visit www.oronogo.com for more information. Cost to dive Blue Water Lake is $12 per person per day. The lake opens April 1. Anything beyond recreational dive limits (130 feet) requires filing a proposed dive plan with the Blue Water Lake staff for approval.

Links In The Chain A chain of lakes was created by impounding the White River in the first part of the 1900s. The main objectives were to curtail flooding and bring hydroelectric power to southern Missouri and northwest Arkansas. But by

doing so, engineers also bestowed a diving Mecca to the Midwest. Table Rock Lake and Lake Taneycomo are on the Missouri side, Bull Shoals Lake straddles the state line, and Beaver Lake is a stone’s throw into Arkansas. Each of these lakes provides excellent diving and is popular with the scuba set. Table Rock Lake dam started supplying the area with power in 1959, but progress has its price; during the process, the village of Oasis became a modern-day Atlantis. This hamlet lies one hundred feet below the surface and can be visited if divers are trained in deep submersions, though only foundations and partial structures have survived. Part of the draw to dive Table Rock is the relatively warm temperatures— eighty-five degrees at the surface in the summer and dropping to a lukewarm sixty degrees below the thirty-foot thermocline—and the lake’s easy access. From the parking area at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers’ Dewey Short Visitor Center, a pair of stairs leads to a gravel beach. This beach area offers the widest variety of diving from shore, and water depths vary from twenty feet to more than 180 feet. From this point, divers can follow interesting rock outcroppings and swim to the dam. Because of the popularity of the site, there are often quite a few divers here so that one can network, exchange information, and ask for tips. Dick Dalager of the State Park Dive Shop at Branson promotes the virtues of diving in Table Rock. “Instead of taking a plane down to the Cayman Islands and incurring that time and expense,” he says, “we encourage people to drive a few hours and come to Table Rock Lake. We might not have large coral reefs like the ocean, but Table Rock has limestone bluffs and interesting rock formations.

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“We might not have huge schools of amberjack at Table Rock, but we do see a large variety of fish on every dive,” he adds. “One of the most beautiful fish is the long-eared sunfish; it’s just as pretty as anything you would see in the ocean. It has a beautiful orange body and bluish gills, and they will eat right out of your hand.” A popular spot is the Enchanted Forest, a grove of submerged oak trees in approximately sixty feet of water. Missouri’s equal to diving in kelp beds off California, these trees provide a natural labyrinth. Plus, the trees provide a shelter for many species of fish; however, divers need to watch for snags. In nearly ninety feet of water rests Zebulon Pike, a twin-deck excursion boat seemingly transported from the days of Huck and Tom to Table Rock Lake. Duck Island and Jake’s Point are suitable for all levels of divers. Duck Island is a shallow-water dive of forty feet with interesting rock formations and large schools of fish. The maximum depth at Jake’s Point is 130 feet, and there is a sunken thirty-foot cabin cruiser at a depth of thirty-five feet. The Dewey Short Visitor Center is located at 4600 Route 165. It is open daily from April 1 to October 31. Call 417-334-4101 or visit www.swl.usace.army. mil/parks/tablerock/recreation.htm for more information.

Underwater Conveyor Belt

Cave Diving

From top: Divers perform a buoyancy check before starting a dive. Missouri’s abundant plant and animal life make scuba diving interesting. Discovered in Norfork Lake, this jelly-like mass is a bryozoan, or “moss animal;” containing thousands of filter-feeding animals, they are indicators of good water quality.

For those with special certification, training, and equipment, Missouri is ranked second in the nation after Florida for cave diving. The caves in Missouri are known as solution caves and are fragile environments. Divers must use skill and caution not to bump the walls and rock formations, which can cause damage to the brittle surfaces. There are three public sites in the state—Bennett Spring, Cannonball Cave, and Roubidoux Spring. Although most dive sites in Missouri are accessed in the warmer months, one site is only open for recreational diving in the winter. Bennett Spring

courtesy of dwain gardner; courtesy of marshall hill

For a truly moving Missouri experience, thirty-one-year diving veteran Ed Pavey, owner of Ozark Dive Company at Poplar Bluff, recommends river diving or drift diving. The key to drift diving is picking clear running rivers and avoiding times after a large rain, which could cloud the water. The Current and Black rivers are two notables in the state. Divers navigate the changing underwater topography of the river, moving along in the current, which acts like an unseen hydraulic conveyor belt. “Divers will be moving along with the current in eight feet of water, four feet of water, and there might be places you have to walk, but then there’s a hole that could be twenty-five feet deep to explore,” Ed says. Often these holes become the repository of other vacationers’ misplaced items—coolers, cameras, watches, and sunglasses. Ed recommends finding a float operator, renting an extra-large inner tube—called a Cadillac tube, which has canvas over the opening to hold dive gear—starting at their departure point, and ending at their final stop. The combination of snorkeling in the shallower waters and diving the deeper holes is fun and interesting, Ed says. As with every dive, people need to be cautious and follow safety procedures, he says. “There are inherent issues with drift diving, such as snags, underwater debris, and of course, the current.”

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COURTESY OF DWAIN GARDNER

Divers are a close community of individuals that share common bonds.

near Lebanon, with an average output of one hundred million gallons per day, is an excellent dive site from November 1 to the last day of February. Although the Bennett Spring State Park is run by the Missouri Department of Natural Resources, the Missouri Department of Conservation uses the basin as a fish hatchery to provide a home to hundreds of thousands of rainbow trout. The DNR allows only six divers in the spring a day, and no more than two dive teams per day. No more than four people are allowed in the spring at any one time. In addition, someone has to be on the surface, observing the dive. Because of the limited number allowed, Diane Tucker, an interpretive resource specialist, encourages divers to schedule a spot well in advance. “On your scheduled dive day, visitors need to check into the Bennett Spring State Park Nature Center and show proper dive certification,” she says. The dive at Bennett Spring can include the cave at the mouth of the spring, so divers must have proper cave-diving certification to enter the cave. After entering through a long, low restriction twenty-five feet below the water’s surface, divers in Cannonball Cave at Lake Wappapello at Greenville move into a large cave and then into another room with a rock formation that makes a natural arch that spans the space. This area opens into a space dubbed “the pit.” In this room, the floor of the cavern narrows and drops to approximately 280 feet, where it tapers and extends further. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers request coordinating with their office prior to diving. Roubidoux Spring at Waynesville is also a popular cave dive. Divers must register at the Pulaski County Emergency Center for permission before entering the spring. The entrance to Roubidoux is wide but low, and there’s only a small section for divers to fit easily through. There are two large caverns at this site, aptly called the “Big Room” and the “Second Big Room.” Interesting geologic formations entice divers at this site. Visibility ranges from fifteen to thirty feet, depending on the amount of rain the area has experienced.

A maze of tunnels greets certified cave divers at Mine LaMotte or Offsets Mine near Fredericktown. This privately owned dive site offers excellent visibility at depths of thirty to forty feet. There are relics from the mining days that still litter the tunnels. Because there are several old guidelines in place and the mine system is like a maze with different levels, divers are encouraged to maintain their own continuous guideline from the entrance in order to prevent confusion. For divers that are not cave certified but still want to experience a submerged Missouri mine, the Bonne Terre Mine at Bonne Terre is a watery dive back in time. This enormous lead mine was closed in 1962 and reopened as a premier dive spot in 1981 after some of the levels filled with groundwater. The lower three levels form seventeen-mile-long Billion Gallon Lake, which was filmed and dived by Jacques Cousteau. The mine offers twenty-four scuba trails, illuminated with more than five hundred thousand watts of stadium lighting. A lead diver and a safety diver, who follows behind, guide groups of ten. Bonne Terre Mine is listed as one of America’s top ten best adventures by National Geographic, according to Doug Goergens, mine owner. The draw of the mine isn’t the abundant aquatic life—in fact, there is only one bass swimming about—but rather the amazing underground architecture and crystal-clear waters that provide divers with more than one hundred feet of visibility. Vestiges from the mining days, such as drills, ore carts, and a towering elevator shaft, mix with the almost lunar backdrop to impart a stunning and unforgettable experience. Call 417-532-3925 or visit www.mostateparks.com/bennett.htm for Bennett Spring information. Call 573-222-8562 or visit www.mostateparks.com/lakewappapello.htm for Cannonball Cave information. Call 877-858-8687 or visit www.ocda.org/roubidoux.htm for Roubidoux Spring information. Visit www. the-offsets.com for Mine LaMotte information. Call 888-843-3483 or visit www.2dive.com/btm.htm for Bonne Terre Mine information.

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Springfield Spotlight

PROMOTION

Hello Springﬁeld!

issouri Life welcomes Springfield! Magazine readers and advertisers. When longtime publisher Bob Glazier decided to retire, we were pleased he asked Missouri Life if we could send our magazine to his subscribers. And, we jumped at the chance to hire Springfield! Magazine Advertising Director Agnieszka Mahan as our sales associate for Springfield and the surrounding region. She has been in the community for many years and is well-known and well-recognized. She has often doubled as a model for some of her favorite clients including Elite Mercedes as she is shown here with the the Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren. Please feel free to give Agnieszka (Aneshka) a call at 417-872-8120, or e-mail her at aneshka@missourilife.com.

Hammons Field Ready to Pack ’em in for a Fourth Season

ammons Field is the home of the Springfield Cardinals Baseball Team, the Double-A Affiliate of the 10-Time World Champion St. Louis Cardinals. 2008 marks the fourth year in franchise history for the Cardinals. Over the first three seasons, the Cardinals have ranked number two in all of Double-A Baseball in attendance, averaging more than 7,000 fans per game. They have also been in the top 15 of all minor league baseball teams in the entire nation, competing against markets like Austin, Buffalo, Sacramento and Memphis. To learn more about Hammons Field and the Springfield Cardinals, visit www.springfieldcardinals.com. Go Cards, and Get Your RED On!

5 Spice China to Open its Doors

here is more good news on the Springfield restaurant scene. As of April 1, the owners of Ocean Zen, John and Johnson Tan, will be opening the doors to another one-of-akind giant: The 5 Spice China at 2058 S. Glenstone Avenue, the former location of Ocean Zen, which is now located at 600 E. Battlefield Street. Ocean Zen made culinary waves with a fusion between Asian and European cuisine. Since their opening in October 2004, the restaurant has been jam packed, and for many good reasons. The hospitality of the Tan family, who own and operate the restaurant is definitely one of them! Johnny Tan, the co-owner and manager of this fine, upscale restaurant, greets you with a warm welcome as you come through the door. The man behind Ocean Zen’s awesome food is Johnny’s brother, Johnson Tan, the executive chef and co-owner of the restaurant that has enamored many. “I loved watching my dad cook when I was a little kid, at our Happy Family, Chinese restaurant. I loved every minute of it,” Johnson says. You can reach them at 417-889-9596.

SPRINGFIELD EVENTS Springfield All School Exhibition March 15, 2008 - April 20, 2008 Where: Springfield Art Museum An exhibition of artwork created by Springfield’s young artists (K-12) to celebrate Youth Art Month. Free. Visit www.springfieldmogov.org/egov/art/ or call 417-837-5700 for times.

Springfield Little Theatre presents The Adventures of Tom Sawyer March 27, 2008 - April 6, 2008 Where: Springfield Little Theatre Tom Sawyer and his friend Huckleberry Finn occupy themselves with racing bugs, impressing girls (particularly Becky Thatcher) and playing pirates on the Mississippi River. Visit www.springfieldlittletheatre.org or call 417-869-1334 for times and prices.

OOVVDA Winery Free Wine Tasting April 4, 2008 Where: OOVVDA Winery, 5448 N. Berry Lane, Springﬁeld, Missouri Free wine tastings Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday. Visit www.oovvda.com or call 417-833-4896 for more information.

First Friday Art Walk April 4, 2008 Where: Downtown Springfield Experience the excitement each gallery has to offer-from photography, paintings, and drawings to pottery, blown glass, and sculpture. It’s a great way to spend time with friends for an evening of art and fun, and it’s free! Call 417-862-2787 or visit www.springfieldarts.org/firstfridayartwalk for more information.

ALS Vegas Vacation Casino Night & Auction April 4, 2008 Where: Oasis Inn & Convention Center, Springfield Enjoy a night with dancing, heavy hors d’oeuvres, live DJ, Vegas-style gaming, and live and silent auctions. Many great prizes given away throughout the night, including a trip to Vegas! All proceeds benefit patients living with Lou Gehrig’s disease. $50 Advanced Tickets, $60 at door. Visit www.alsa-midwest. org or call 417-886-5003. Teddy Roosevelt and the Treasure of Ursa Major April 7, 2008 Where: Juanita K. Hammons Hall for the Performing Arts, Springfield This clever and comical production from the Kennedy Center features songs by Washington satirist Mark Russell. Visit www.hammonshall.com or call 888-476-7849 for tickets.

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ad 56

3/6/08 3:36:34 PM

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Mark W. moore President

Much “Moore” Than a Family Tradition! “G.L. Moore Tire & Automotive Inc. has the largest selection of Michelin, BF Goodrich, and Uniroyal tires in the Springfield area,” says owner Mark Moore. “Our technicians are all certified, utilizing the latest computerized equipment for alignments, tire mounting, balancing and mechanical repairs.” “We provide all preventive maintenance and repairs as needed for cars, light trucks, vans, motor homes, trailers, and SUVs,” says Mark. “Even our waiting room was made with you in mind. Cable television, comfortable chairs, a monitor to experience real-time wheel alignment, wide selection of magazines, view of the shop and Wi-Fi for your laptops. There is always fresh coffee and every morning you’ll find fresh Krispy Kreme donuts!” G.L. Moore Tire and Automotive specializes in a long list of automotive maintenance needs for today’s hi-tech cars including Computerized Alignment and Computerized Engine Analysis, but also realizes that regularly scheduled maintenance is the key to a vehicle’s long life. That includes Lube & Filter Changes, Fuel Injector Service, Wheel Balance, Shocks and Struts, Tire Rotation, Transmission Maintenance, State Vehicle Inspections, and, of course, Tires. “We are proud to say that we have been in operation as a family-owned and operated business for almost 40 years,” says Mark whose daughter

Whitney Moore, who recently graduated from Ozark Technical College, joined the family business. “When my dad, Mark Moore, took over the company he asked me to come and learn the business along beside him to help keep the family involved. While attending college, I have been working part time handling the accounts receivables and payables, payroll and customer calls.” Other family members of the G.L. Moore team include nephew Dane Moore who has been with the business for 24 years, and Mark’s son Ryan who recently returned from the Army and is now training in all aspects of the shop. “My uncle and founder of G.L. Moore Tire (est. 1971), Gary Moore, gave me the opportunity to come into the business in 1996. After working and learning from him for 5 years, he was stricken with cancer and later passed away in 2002. I subsequently purchased the business from my aunt, Sandy, in 2003. It has been my personal goal to continue to keep the trust of Gary’s customers by offering the best service and quality work in Springfield. Gary and I were raised in the Moore family to be honest and I believe that is the number one trait we can offer our customers.” “Please stop by anytime and let us know what we can do for you!”

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Come visit our Historic Downtown Area and the Telephone Pioneer Museum. Just three miles off I-70...spend a weekend, day, hour, or a few special minutes.

All Aboard for

Bus Tours, guided tours, and meals upon arrangement. For reservations call 660-846-4636 or 660-846-4511.

Upcoming Events for 2008 March 29 Concert at West End Theatre Mick Byrd & Bonus Track

Blackwater!

April 19 Spring Garden Show

Garden-related antiques, crafts, and food

May 3 and 10 Blackwater News and Occasional Rumor Hit Production at West End Theatre May 10 May Fest

Antiques, crafts, food, plants, and more

June 14 and 21 Best of the West West End Theatre Production July 12-13 Dedication of New Railroad Depot Missouri-Made Products sale and show “All Aboard Railroad” miniature railroad display August 2 Volunteer Firemen’s Whole Hog Bar-B-Que September 13 and 20 Comedy Play West End Theatre Special Production October 11 Fall Festival & Quilt Show

Crafts, antiques, food, and more

November 8 and 15 Orphan Train Jay Turley’s signature play at West End Theatre December 6 Merchant’s Christmas Open House Don’t miss Blackwater’s Christmas Decorations! Bob Milne in Concert—Considered to be the nation’s top Ragtime Pianist Back Roads Grill Tues.-Thurs. 7 AM-7 PM, Fri.-Sat. 7 AM-10 PM

Iron Horse Hotel and Restaurant 660-846-2011

Just-N-Habit At Prairie Lawn School House-Primitives

Blackwater Treasures Fine Antiques and Collectibles

Citizens Community Bank www.ccb-online.net

Bucksnort Trading Co. LLC Southwestern, jewelry, reenactor supplies 660-846-2224

Citizens Bank & Trust www.ebankCBT.com

Mary J. Watson Antiques & Interiors 127 Main Street 660-846-2007

Victorian Rose Florals and gifts Mary Ann Schuster Insurance 660-846-2521

Blackwater0408.indd 1

West End Theatre Community theatre at its best Past and Present-Picket Fence Handmade gifts and collectibles featuring “Pie Lady of Blackwater”

www.blackwater-mo.com

Village Mall Antiques 660-846-4567 Blackwater Preservation Society “See you in Blackwater!” Blackwater Community Club 660-846-4636 or 660-846-4511

2/20/08 3:02:35 PM

Union Station a day at

courtesy of union station kansas city

Kansas City History Meets its Present at the Tracks

By BJ Alderman [66] MissouriLife

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When they were younger,

Kansas City natives Ed and Jan Guthrie traveled by train on a regular basis. The Overland Park retirees recently attended a train show and watched a film about the trains of their youth. While enjoying the film that day, both were stunned to see a young Ed Guthrie on the screenâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;part of a 1930s group of school kids shown boarding a train at Union Station. [67] April 2008

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People-watching at Union Station comes highly recommended by Tammy Gay, a Washington, D.C. federal employee who attends events at the station three or four times a year. Favorably comparing D.C.’s Union Station to ours, Tammy notes how much she enjoys the juxtaposition of history and vitality. Both stations were designed by architect Jarvis Hunt. “When you walk in, you realize just how much there is to see,” Tammy says. One glance skyward proves her point. It’s difficult not to blurt out “Wow!” as your gaze lingers on the elegant ceiling, lighting fixtures, and carved marble. Another frequent visitor, Lorrie Gordon, banker and lifelong Kansas City resident, says that “seeing the grandeur and history is worth a visit, even to the bathrooms” at the end of Sprint Festival Plaza. Lorrie also recommends visiting at Christmas when local service organizations donate and decorate trees, which are auctioned for charity, and seeing the traveling exhibits, which are exceptional. Lorrie loved the First Ladies: Political Role and Public Image, while Tammy enjoyed The Dead Sea Scrolls. Union Station managers have paid heed to such feedback and opened an additional exhibit area. Funded by Bank of America Charitable Foundation, the new hall currently houses Bodies Revealed, an exhibit focusing on “the miraculous systems at work within each of us.”

courtesy of union station kansas city

The Guthries continue to enjoy visits to restored Union Station for myriad activities suited to adventurers of all ages. A day at Union Station might start with a stop at the information booth, where history brochures and maps are available, and breakfast at the Harvey House Diner to take time to plan the visit. The diner has reopened in its original location in the southeast corner. It was just outside the Harvey House in 1933 that bullets ricocheted off the marble façade when mobsters opened fire, killing an FBI agent, three local lawmen, and a gangster en route to prison. Outside, bullet holes from that day and a bronze plaque commemorate those who died during the Kansas City Massacre. Large photographs of the original Harvey Girls decorate the walls inside the diner. Today’s servers no longer wear traditional black dresses with white pinafores, yet are just as pleasant and helpful as they were back then. Breakfast clientele on a Sunday morning might include informally dressed tourists and locals in their Sunday-best dining after early services. When you go, tell Billie Jo that we sent you. Harvey House Diner is one of three restaurants in the Grand Hall. Varying in operation times and prices, you’ll enjoy the fare at Pierpont’s and The Bistro at Union Station. The latter provides the best place for people-watching as seating juts over the Grand Hall.

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Outside the Diner, Mobsters Opened Fire, Killing an FBI Agent, Three Lawmen, and a Gangster En Route to Jail.

The Post Office at Union Station is a Gordon-family favorite “because you can purchase unusual stamps as gifts for the kids in the family, unlike at the branch facilities.” A blue cow resting on her pedestal beside the Post Office entrance greets you as you enter. Artist Mike Savage adorned one side of Bossie with the skyline of Kansas City, Kansas, while the other sports the skyline of Kansas City, Missouri, hence the name of this art installation: The BiState Cow. Across the hall from the Post Office, just outside the entrance to The Chocolate Factory, you will find one of several model trains. Watch volunteers operate this one or run one yourself in Science City, the science museum located at the station. A third track is located just outside the KC Rail Experience in an area reminiscent of an old train shed. There, visitors can also see an actual engine and a 1950s observation car. Statues of various rail employees tell their story as you step across the sensor at their feet. Exhibits about railroad history line the walls and various kiosks, including one about Mary Colter and her many years with Fred Harvey, designing everything from dinnerware to buildings. Fred Harvey, the owner of the Harvey House Diner, was known to have high standards when it came to style in the diners. Be sure to make time for the Gottlieb Planetarium. Children between three and seven can enjoy a first experience of astronomy on

From left: The Harvey House Diner has reopened in its original location at the Kansas City Union Station. Statues in the exhibits in the KC Rail Experience “speak” to visitors and tell the story of life on the railway. The original Harvey House Diner was a bustling place where Harvey Girls wore crisp uniforms with white pinafores.

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table of specimens in the center of the area comes equipped with magnifying glasses, inviting a closer look. Dinosaurs are but one of many adventures that await in Science City. Entertainment and education beckon the minute you step inside. How about a couple of holes of golf on a putting green? Get an introduction to industrial engineering, and stroll through the nature center. How about exploring the subterranean environments of public works and investigate how everything works? Try your hand at cracking the case in the crime lab. Just when you think you have seen it all, slip into the Irish Museum and Cultural Center next to the ticket office. Why an Irish Museum in Union Station? One hint: It was an Irish-born designer and laborers who built the Hannibal Bridge after the Civil War, allowing trains to cross the Missouri River, connecting us to Chicago. They helped transform economically ravaged, postwar Kansas City into world-famous Cowtown. To do Union Station justice, it will take more than one day. All Missourians are invited to enjoy one of Ed and Jan Guthrie’s favorite places. They will be the first to suggest that the best way to arrive is by rail. The Southwest Chief, service between Chicago and Los Angeles; the Ann Rutledge, service from Kansas City to Chicago; and the Missouri Mule, service from Kansas City to St. Louis operate daily. Get the complete experience—take the train! Union Station is located at 30 West Pershing Road at Kansas City. Call 816-460-2020 or visit www.unionstation.org for more information.

courtesy of union station kansas city

Thursday’s Half-Pint Space Adventure. The rest of us can settle back for enthralling presentations, the newest of which is a kid-friendly, thirtyfive minute cartoon planetarium show, Larry Cat in Space, about a playful cat that stows away on a trip to the moon. One of the station’s most fascinating offerings is the five-and-onehalf story Regnier Extreme Screen showing 3-D movies. Coming nose-to-nose with a swooping pterodactyl intent on checking you out is just the beginning. The highly recommended Sea Monsters reveals the inland sea that used to cover prehistoric Kansas. It includes finds by the dinosaur-hunting family of Charles Sternberg and his three sons in Logan County, Kansas, early last century. Two new movies have been added to the lineup: Wild Ocean is about the annual migration of billions of fish up the South African coast, and Human Body “reveals the incredible story of life.” If the Sternbergs’ dinosaurs fire your imagination, you can dig bones yourself in Science City. Buried in the “soil” of granulated, recycled tires, authentic bones can be “unearthed” by kids of all ages. Older dinosaur devotees may have just as much fun watching resident paleontologists in a glass-enclosed laboratory as they clean bones and prepare them for display. The lab is surrounded by a wide selection of fossils. Along with plants and animals embedded in stone is an illustration of the skeleton currently being cleaned by the scientists, who show observers the bones that are being processed that day. A

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Bodies Revealed, a Union Station exhibit that runs through September 1, features preserved cadavers that illustrate the functions of the human body. Opposite: Kids discover dinosaur bones buried under a layer of granulated, recycled tire-rubber dirt at Science City.

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E H T F O E F I L T E R C E THE S IFE

W S ’ N A LAWM

MAN

BY BJ ALDER

When The Sheriff’s Family Ran The C Jennie Bash checked her lipstick in the hall mirror, made her farewell to her hostess, and slid into the back of the family car. Beside Jennie sat her fourteen-year-old neighbor, tired because of the late hour. In the front seat rode her husband, Jackson County Sheriff Tom Bash, and his deputy. It was 1933 at Kansas City, midway through a sultry August. The ice cream they’d enjoyed that evening had helped relieve the heat. So did the open windows as they cruised near Armour and Forest. Their contentment continued for only a few blocks—shattered by the sound of gunfire. As luck would have it, just as two mobsters gunned down a rival gang member, the sheriff and his passengers clearly heard the shots. The hit men had not yet returned to their waiting vehicle when the Bash car screeched to a halt. Tom grabbed the twelve-gauge shotgun clamped to the ceiling of the car and leapt into the street. Without hesitation, the driver of the getaway car stomped his foot on the gas and rammed the sheriff’s car where Jennie desperately tried to protect the terrified young girl beside her. The deputy extricated himself from the tangle and took off in pursuit of the two hit men, who were now fleeing on foot. A hail of bullets erupted from the two mobsters who remained in the wreckage. Tom stood his ground and fired his riot gun. Both gangsters died where they sat, just

inches from Jennie and her teenage neighbor. During the long era of mom-and-pop jails, many a Missouri sheriff’s wife found herself in similar or worse situations. When Pop won his election, Mom and the kids moved into or near their county’s jailhouse and took on the work of the new family business. Not only did their car become the sheriff’s official vehicle, but the family entered into what can only be described as a double life. They presented socially acceptable faces to the community while quickly learning about the unsavory side of life that came with tending to prisoners. That life they kept to themselves, the one that required discretion by even the youngest members of the family. Discretion was the key to a successful term in office and the possibility of reelection—if the family could stand another term. Until today, much of what we knew about the sheriff’s wife and the work she performed came from accounts in newspaper articles. Most accounts were that she sometimes cooked for the

prisoners. Rarely were citizens privy to details about the other half of her life. Now that the era of the mom-and-pop jail has ended in Missouri, stories are emerging about Mom serving as Pop’s unpaid and unsung deputy—treating drug addicts, caring for the insane, living with threats on her children’s lives, and worse. Nelle Vance, one of the thousands of American women who “cooked for the prisoners,” went about her meal preparation one day at the Audrain County jail. Nelle served alongside Sheriff Ross Vance between 1948 and 1968. What had begun as a typical day changed drastically as she looked up from peeling vegetables to find an armed suspect walking through her kitchen with the gun in his hand pointed at the back of a highway patrolman. Just moments before, the lawman had been questioning the suspect in the sheriff’s office when the man grabbed the patrolman’s gun and ordered him to get moving. As the pair walked through the jailhouse kitchen and out the back door, Nelle unexpectedly followed behind them, wiping her hands on her work apron. “I’m going to get you help. Don’t worry, I’m going to get you help!” Nelle repeatedly informed the patrolman as she kept up with the duo, ignoring both the gun and the suspect. Upstairs, Kay (Nelle’s youngest) looked out the window to see what her mother was chattering

ANDREW BARTON

ounty Jail

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jail matron, and cook. As matron, most sheriffs’ wives cleaned the jail, laundered bedding, nursed ill or insane inmates, and cared for female and juvenile prisoners. Like women everywhere, sheriffs’ wives made the best of any situation in which they found themselves. Mary Ruth Sulgrove, who followed Nelle Vance into the Audrain County jail alongside her husband, Sheriff Harold Sulgrove, commented that “you had to live thinking about food since you didn’t know who all was to be fed.” Not only were families and a fluctuating number of prisoners included in meal planning, but visiting lawmen, lawyers, and circuit judges were as well. In the early days of the state’s history, juries also enjoyed the labor of the sheriff’s wife. Based on her cooking skills, a sheriff’s wife could affect an election outcome. Those in the county who regularly found themselves in jail often voted according to the cooking skills of the

Based on Her Cooking Skills, A Sheriff’s Wife Could Affect the Outcome of an Election.

incumbent’s wife. If she made a tasty meal, they voted to reelect. If not, they’d vote for the opposition in hopes that his wife could cook better. Burton Drury grew up in the Ste. Genevieve County jailhouse between 1932 and 1936, the only boy among five sisters. He reported that his mother, Philomena, was reimbursed thirty-five cents per meal served. She gardened, shopped, cooked, paid the grocery bills, and prepared her boarding records so that Sheriff Henry Drury could present the food bill along with his other expenses quarterly to the county commissioners. During the same period, Sheriff Frank and Sarah Jones took up the same cause for Christian County. Four months into their four-year tenure, Frank’s car hit loose gravel while he sped toward the jail to check on their prisoners. His 1932 Ford flipped into a culvert, leaving Frank badly injured and unable to perform his duties. For two months, Sarah and their daughter, Estia, (along with Deputy Walter Keltner) successfully ran the sheriff’s office. Everything went swimmingly until they came up against a scheduled tax sale. Missouri state law required that only a sheriff could attend to a tax sale. Unable to do so in this case, the county postponed the sale. Three days later, Frank died. The following day, a grieving Sarah accepted her appointment to replace her husband in office until an election could be held. Although she served well, Sarah’s political party did not put her name on the ballot. She served from May 26 to June 26, 1933. Sarah Jones was not the first Missouri sher-

COURTESY OF BATES COUNTY JAIL, NEVADA CONVENTION AND VISITOR’S BUREAU, MISSOURI DIVISION OF TOURISM, PHELPS COUNTY, AND MEGAN AINSWORTH

about and observed the trio crossing the lawn. Unnerved by the tenacious sheriff’s wife, the suspect changed his plan of escaping with his hostage in the patrol car. Instead, he took off running across the yard. Kay, from her secondfloor vantage point, watched the escaping man race down the railroad tracks, jump a ditch, and enter a back door to the Power and Light building. Armed with young Kay’s information, the patrolman recaptured the suspect without further incident and tossed him in Nelle’s jail. In 1915, the wife of Sheriff W.B. Hawkins, like Nelle Vance, stood her ground and spoke up. Sheriff and Mrs. Hawkins incarcerated a murder suspect whose crime so incited Pike County citizens that they formed a lynch mob—not once, but twice. The sheriff was forced to leave his wife on her own to face the angry mobs while he ran out the back door to gather a posse to fend off those with a hanging on their minds. On both occasions, Mrs. Hawkins confronted her unexpected late night guests and disarmed them with debate. On both occasions, her efforts resulted in the dispersal of the mob before the posse appeared, saving her prisoner’s life. Randolph County’s Marjorie Price noted how she’d been happy that Orville won his 1968 election as sheriff, but the prospect of leaving her pretty home to live in the dreary old jailhouse made her sad. She managed to get over it, and the couple went on to serve their fellow citizens from 1969 through 1985. Marjorie took up the round-the-clock job of unofficial sheriff’s deputy,

Visit Missouri’s Old Jail Museums Bates County

Cooper County

Butler, 660-679-0134

Boonville, 660-882-7977

to the close of 2003, there has been a mom

The old jail is closed; however, the Bates

When it closed in 1978, this was the oldest

working somewhere behind the scenes in our

County Historical Society, which once

continuously used county jail in Missouri.

nation’s mom-and-pop jails. As Missouri’s

called it home, hopes to renovate it.

From the end of the American Revolution

Jackson County

county jails became professional institutions, some have been left to molder, while oth-

Clay County

Independence, 816-252-1892

ers were snapped up by historical societies.

Liberty, 816-781-3188

See the signed proof of a Caleb Bingham

Howard and Randolph counties, meanwhile,

The Mormon prophet Joseph Smith spent

engraving and the parlor of the marshal’s

sold their jailhouses on eBay!

five months awaiting trial at the Liberty Jail.

living quarters.

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COURTESY OF BATES COUNTY JAIL, NEVADA CONVENTION AND VISITOR’S BUREAU, MISSOURI DIVISION OF TOURISM, PHELPS COUNTY, AND MEGAN AINSWORTH

Bates County

Jackson County Marshal’s Home

Bushwhacker Jail

Cooper County Jail

Phelps County Museum

Daviess County Jail Laclede County

Linn County

Phelps County

Lebanon, 417-588-3256

Linneus, (no phone available)

Rolla, 573-364-5977

The Laclede County Historical Society

The old brick jail served Linn County for

The Old Jail, the Old Courthouse, and Dillon

Museum is located in their old jail, built

one hundred years.

Log House are open by appointment.

just after the Civil War. Maries County

Vernon County

Lawrence County

Vienna, 573-422-3522

Nevada, 417-667-9602

Mt. Vernon, 417-466-7654

Members of the historical society maintain

The “cell room of medieval malevolence” is

There are two old jails still preserved here.

three museums in Vienna, which include

as the last prisoners left it in 1960, one

One is west of the square, and one north.

the Old Jail Museum.

hundred years after the jail opened.

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Most of what we know about sheriffs’ wives is that they cooked for the prisoners.

Prisoners across the nation reported that they gained weight while doing time. In the main, they ate what the family ate. Marjorie Price of Randolph County shared her 1983-84 menus with us. She kept her records to show at the annual jail inspection by the county commissioners. The following 1983 selection shows what prisoners ate the first week in October.

Date

Breakfast

Lunch

Supper

Saturday 10/1

Eggs, toast, butter, jelly, coffee

Meatloaf sandwich, potato chips, iced tea

Burger on bun, pork and beans, potato salad, bread, cake, jello, iced tea

Sunday 10/2

Cereal, milk, banana, toast, butter, coffee

Turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy, noodles, bean salad, bread, cake, iced tea

Wiener on bun, blackberry cobbler, iced tea

Monday 10/3

French toast, syrup, coffee

Ham sandwich, chocolate cake, iced tea

Spaghetti with meat sauce, tossed salad, bread, chocolate cake, iced tea

Tuesday 10/4

Eggs, toast, coffee, butter, jelly

Tuna salad sandwich, cheddar cheese slices, potato chips, coffee

Pork steak with mushrooms, mashed potatoes, milk gravy, green beans, bread, peach cobbler, coffee

Wednesday 10/5

Buttered pancakes, syrup, bacon, coffee

Grilled cheese sandwich, potato chips, iced tea

Beef stew, tossed salad, cheddar cheese slices, bread, pudding with marshmallows, pineapple, iced tea

Thursday 10/6

Eggs, buttered toast, jelly, coffee

Wiener on bun, potato chips, iced tea

Chili, cheese and crackers, cake, jello, watermelon, iced tea

Friday 10/7

Sausage gravy, biscuits, coffee

Chili, cheese and crackers, iced tea

Burger on bun, baked beans, scalloped potatoes, cake, iced tea

BJ Alderman resides in Kansas City and is the author of The Secret Life of the Lawman’s Wife, published by Praeger Publishing. Her research is based on interviews with Missouri sheriffs, jailhouse family members, journalists, and historical societies.

ANDREW BARTON

The Jailhouse Kitchen

iff’s wife to take up the badge on behalf of her husband. The year before, in Texas County, Bessie Kelly was called upon to serve out the remaining month of her husband’s term. Bessie and Harry Kelly had served for eight years by that time. Bessie raised two children, took care of their 204-acre farm, and oversaw the daily operation of her five businesses, in addition to serving alongside Harry. She cooked for the prisoners in her own kitchen at the farm, and Harry toted the food to the jail. Bessie didn’t spend much time at the jail in the basement of the courthouse except when Harry transferred a prisoner. While he was out of town, Bessie traded in her many hats for that of unofficial jailor. It was during one such time that the prisoners decided that having the sheriff’s wife in charge meant they were in luck. They hatched a foolproof escape plan. It was going to be a simple matter of setting fire to a mattress. As smoke billowed, their cries for help would be met with cell doors flying open. The prisoners planned to run to safety and to freedom, leaving “the little woman” to wonder what had just happened. The prisoners hadn’t taken an accurate measure of their jailor. When the cells began to fill with smoke, no-nonsense Bessie answered their cries for help. The inmates were startled to hear the order to open their windows while Bessie passed them a bucket of water to extinguish the fire. Not one cell door was opened. Not one prisoner escaped on Bessie’s watch. These are a few of the stories about the secret lives that took place in our mom-and-pop jails. The legacy of these women’s strength, resilience, devotion, and courage continues today. Many Missouri sheriff’s departments are staffed with family members of former jailhouse couples. In Audrain County alone, several of the current staff can trace their roots to the mom-andpop jail. Harold and Mary Sulgrove are the great grandparents of current Deputy David Higgins. Sheriff and Mrs. Paul Hammett (served 1937 – 1940) are the grandparents of Major Don Uhey in charge of the jail. Sheriff Stuart Miller’s father, Daniel, served as a reserve deputy sheriff under Sheriff Arthur A. (Bud) Riley, who with his wife were the last couple to live in the jailhouse. Today’s law enforcement owes a large debt of gratitude to the remarkable women who served Missouri counties in the shadows of history.

[82] MissouriLife

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The rooftop of the Alberici building at Overland near St. Louis collects rainwater and routes it to an underground cistern to be used in toilets.

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With spring comes renewal—ivory and pale pink dogwood blossoms bursting through jade-pimpled tree branches and lime sprouts popping through mulch. With this rebirth comes “green”—the color symbolizing nature, fertility, harmony, and growth. Missouri communities are expanding their efforts to be green in a different way. They are seeking alternative energy sources to power homes. They are collecting materials for recycling and detouring rubbish from swelling landfills. They are planting native flora to enhance a natural environment. Here are some of the communities leading the state’s efforts for environmental consideration as they grow and develop.

COURTESY OF ALBERICI

SUSTAINABLE LIVING Pattonsburg’s Solar Panels Even on a crisp, wintry day, sunshine beams warmth to Dennis Ladd’s home via a three-foot-by-twenty-foot solar panel that captures the star’s energy. Adjusting the panel that is several years old is an awkward task for the aging Ladd, who says it’s getting harder to go up and down the ladder. But a visionary mayor and his town’s commitment to sustainable living make it possible for the panel to stand at his residence on Oak Street. Pattonsburg’s city charter, created fifteen years ago, banned any construction that might interfere with the use of solar panels such as Ladd’s. The change came after thirty-three floods dampened Pattonsburg in northwest Missouri throughout its history. Residents voted in 1993 to relocate to higher ground. They received twelve million dollars in federal disaster assistance in the spring of 1994 and moved from the flood plain, uprooting most of the then four hundred residents. The new town sits next to an interstate interchange to lure traffic to Main Street, where pedestrian access was a top priority for designers and Mayor David Warford, who helped instigate the move. Warford, with help of the United States Department of Energy and Federal Emergency Management Agency, developed a plan that considered older residents. They built the senior center near the end of Main Street and positioned housing plots so no one would have more than a five-minute walk into the business district. The Pattonsburg wastewater treatment plant’s lagoon and sewage treatment area is large enough to prevent waste from entering nearby streams. The restrictions implemented fifteen years ago in the town’s charter remain progressive for Pattonsburg’s size, says current mayor Gene Walker.

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Rock Port’s windy move is not just good, it’s necessary, says resident and telephone company general manager Raymond Henagan. “We have to get (energy costs) under control through wind power or ethanol or something,” he says. “Wind power is one way to get the best of our natural resources.” Henagan walks his talk of energy efficiency. He and his wife Connie built their home four years ago after speaking to local contractors and builders on the best materials to equal less power needed for heating and cooling. “We bought a new house that is twice the square footage (than the old), but we spend half on utilities,” he says. Insulation stuffing their home’s walls is made from refurbished paper that’s efficient and recycled. The Henagans added top-of-the-line appliances that cost more, hoping their investment would pay off in cheaper utility bills. Now it’s their community’s turn. Four 1.25-MW turbines, sitting atop towers 250 feet tall, keep the lights on at Rock Port (population 1,400), the first town in America to be nearly 100 percent powered by wind energy. The switch occurred in early 2008, with financing coming from John Deere Credit at Johnston, Iowa, and development from Wind Capital Group at St. Louis, a commercial wind energy company. Known as Loess Hills Wind Farm, Wind Capital Group expects to generate more than enough electricity annually to power all the homes and businesses at Rock Port, according to Eric Chamberlain, Rock Port resident and a Wind Capital Group project manager. Missouri Joint Municipal

Electric Utility Commission is buying all the electricity, and Rock Port is billed for what it uses. The utility commission also provides Rock Port with backup power from other sources on less windy days. Chamberlain estimates that residents will not initially see a change in their utility rates, but the wholesale rate paid to the commission will decrease because they will not have to pay transmitting fees. “I’ve done some calculations at 50 percent, and the city could save quite a bit of money,” Chamberlain says. “But that is really just pulling numbers out of thin air. Once we’ve run for a calendar year, we will know more.” Rock Port’s control of its own municipal utility and its wind resources made it ideal for incorporating the renewable energy source, Chamberlain says. The Missouri Department of Natural Resources provided assistance on measuring the town’s wind speeds. The proximity to the construction of Wind Capital Group’s nearby Cow Branch Wind Energy Center (also in Atchison County) gave Rock Port an advantage in pursuing wind energy. “It was being at the right place at the right time,” says Rock Port Mayor Jo Stevens.

Columbia’s Renewable Energy Ordinance Rotting garbage doesn’t have to be bad. In fact, Columbia residents are using landfill gas as a source to maintain their renewable energy promise. Three years ago, Columbia voters overwhelmingly (more than 70 per-

courtesy of wind capital group

From left: Tom Carnahan works 250 feet up in the air on a wind turbine. Park volunteers incorporate aquatic ecology at Columbia. More than 150 tons of expended brass shell casings wait for recycling at Fort Leonard Wood.

RENEWABLE ENERGY Rock Port’s Wind Power

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cent) agreed to a law that remains only a few of its kind in the country—a mandate insisting that its utility company purchase increasing percentages of energy from renewable resources. The law, also known as a Renewable Energy Standard, takes effect this year, and the town has already been implementing the practice. According to the city’s renewable energy report, Columbia will surpass the 2 percent level set for 2008, as required by the ordinance. The city has agreements for wind and landfill gas energy from Bluegrass Ridge Wind Farm, Ameresco Landfill Gas Project in Jefferson City, and Columbia Landfill Gas Project that account for the renewable sources. Bluegrass Ridge, a wind farm north of King City in Gentry County, began supplying electricity to Columbia on September 6, 2007, as part of the city’s first step to an ultimate goal of 15 percent power from renewable sources by 2023. But does “green” energy mean customers have to pay more green? The renewable energy ordinance includes a 3 percent cost cap on energy being more expensive, says Connie Kacprowicz of Columbia Water & Light. “We just started our wind energy contract, so we’ll have to see how the costs work out over time,” she says. “We are estimating our two landfill gas projects should be below the cost cap.” Columbia receives accolades from environmental groups for its efforts. The Sierra Club recognizes Columbia as one of three towns highlighted nationally for renewable energy efforts. “Columbia and Rock Port are definitely the top two (in Missouri),” says Erin Noble, energy policy and outreach coordinator of Missouri Coalition for the Environment.

RECYCLING Springfield’s Java Compost and Electronic Waste

Nevada’s Expanding Service Few are more excited about their recycling jobs than Ron Clow. He moved to Nevada, Missouri, five years ago when the recycling program consisted of a borrowed truck and trailer for two hours on a weekend once a month. Material would then be transported to Joplin. Now there’s a building, a loading dock, a composting project, a one-ton pickup, a recycling trailer, and service to smaller, surrounding communities in a sixty-mile radius. The city also receives double value for cardboard because fibers are now separated during the process, making the recycling more efficient. Clow, a state solid waste advisory board member, says he wants to change the preference for burning and reinforce recycling as a civic duty. He has applied for a grant to construct a compost site for the leaves collected in the city. Instead of 40 percent diversion from landfills, he wants to have 50 to 60 percent. Nevada’s other project combines two community efforts—organizing the recycling of demolition materials from Habitat for Humanity’s projects.

Fort Leonard Wood’s Expended Brass More than thirteen thousand military personnel and six thousand civilians live throughout the sixty-one thousand acres of this Army base in south central Missouri. As one of the largest basic training centers, it generates 31,686 tons of waste annually, as reported from September 2006 to October 2007. But residents divert nearly half of this waste, which includes aluminum cans, batteries, cardboard packaging, and mounds of bureaucratic paperwork, from the landfill, says Scott Murrell, chief of the environmental division for Fort Leonard Wood and chairman of the Ozark Rivers Solid Waste Management District. The Army base also has access to a lucrative recyclable material that makes it unique—166 tons of expended brass from firing ranges. Recycling the brass earned Fort Leonard Wood a whopping $511,660 last year. Money

courtesy of columbia parks and recreation; courtesy of fort leonard wood

Partnerships with businesses set Springfield apart from other communities. Go ahead and take a whiff of the MO-Java Coffee Compost Project. Grass clippings, leaves, and other yard waste (150,000 cubic yards annually) are combined with coffee-ground leftovers from Dairy Farmers of America’s milky joe drinks and sold for planting. The perky-smelling compost sells faster than it’s made, says Barbara Lucks, materials recovery and education coordinator of Springfield Public Works Department.

Nestlé Purina company morphs file folders, cereal boxes, and mixed paper into the company’s cat litter and animal bedding. And the e-waste Computer Recycling Center, open five days a week, took in more than thirteen tons of computers, VCRs, camcorders, cell phones, TVs, and microwaves in one day when partnering with a local television station, Lucks says.

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goes for adult and youth sports leagues, playground repairs, golf course maintenance, canoes for floating, and other recreational uses. Manufacturers use the brass for more shell casings and ammunition, Murrell says.

STORM WATER RUNOFF Storm water from Columbia’s Stephens Lake’s parking lots rushes to its destination—a marsh-like assortment of stones and native plants in a rock garden. Its design captures storm water as it gushes off the asphalt. This new landscaping trend is endorsed by the Environmental Protection Agency, which now considers storm water a major contaminant in local streams. These stone gardens collect pollutants from heavy metals and other chemicals streaming from parking lots before it can seep into local water sources, says Columbia Parks Services Manager Mike Griggs. Native plants, such as copper iris and purple coneflowers, provide a natural backdrop. Griggs hopes the gardens will inspire homeowners to employ the same landscaping techniques for their own driveways. Stephens Lake Park, with its rock garden and solar-paneled parking lot lights, exemplifies Columbia’s green space consciousness. Other projects that prove it is the state’s leader include the Columbia Aquatic Restoration Project (CARP)—park volunteers learn and incorporate aquatic ecology—and a voluntary tree-keeper class. Columbia’s other city departments are progressive in environmental considerations for green spaces. McBaine Bottoms is home to wetlands constructed to treat naturally wastewater from the municipal plant. The city council aggressively buys buffer areas surrounding the MKT Nature and Fitness Trail to preserve a native buffer from residential development.

BUILDING GREEN Eco-conscious businesses don’t just make a statement, they LEED, as in Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System™. The U.S. Green Building Council, an independent organization, awards this tag as a way to encourage sustainable green building development. Criteria are based on design and construction, including energy efficiency, building materials selection, and water savings. Any building seeking LEED certification must achieve a list of prerequisites, such as recycling collection and energy efficiency. A scoring system breaks down areas and subsets, such as water savings and water efficiency, with scoring based on compliance with LEED’s guidelines. The point totals determine what certificate level is achieved—platinum, silver, etc.

St. Louis Area Makeovers Two St. Louis buildings achieved high enough points to reach the top platinum-level LEED certification. Alberici Headquarters at Overland Italian immigrant John Stanislaus Alberici founded Alberici Constructors in 1918, but it’s a modern example of a company that puts its money where its mouth is. The environmentally progressive company’s headquarters at Interstate 170 and Page Avenue at the St. Louis suburb of Overland (see photo on page 84) is an example of a chunky, industrial building with a green makeover. Recycled material was used where possible, and natural light streams through windows. Native landscape outlines walking paths.

courtesy of alberici

The Alberici Headquarters at Overland has its own windmill to generate electricity.

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Eric Wesbury, left, helps install the living green roof at Wright Brothers’ Mule Barn that helped the building earn the first commercial LEED award in Columbia.

GREENING THE HEARTLAND The St. Louis LEED chapter is hosting Greening the Heartland from June 22-24. Organizers hope to bring together private architects and builders along with public officials to bring attention to Midwestern environmental policy issues. Visit www.greeningtheheartland.org for more information.

Columbia’s Living Roof Columbia again proves it is setting an example. In 2007, architect Brian Pape installed a living green roof at Wright Brothers’ Mule Barn (also known as Warehouse Studios and Fay Street Lofts), at the corner of Hinkson Avenue and Fay Street. The building, remodeled into loft apartments and studio space, is the first commercial structure at Columbia to earn a LEED award. Watchdog Boone County Smart Growth Coalition keeps an eye on Columbia development to ensure sustainable and “healthy balances between private and public interests, between urban and rural land use, and between developed areas and natural spaces,” according to its mission statement. City

administrators are also looking into solar power for city hall buildings as another energy option.

DISCOVERY CENTERS Learning about nature and preserving it is the goal at Anita B. Gorman Conservation Discovery Center’s Urban Conservation Campus at Kansas City, affiliated with Missouri Department of Conservation. The center teaches these lessons as soon as visitors enter the parking lot, where bio-swales gently slope to collect rainwater for reuse and geothermal heat pumps generate energy. These green design features accompany native plants in the landscaping and exhibits that explore water quality issues. The Discovery Center at Springfield, unrelated to the Kansas City one, is an interactive museum. After a thirty-thousand-square-foot addition last year and the use of recycled materials, it became the city’s first LEEDcertified building. How we selected communities During an exhaustive search, we received nominations from the Missouri Department of Natural Resources, Missouri Department of Agriculture, Missouri Division of Tourism, and Missouri Department of Conservation. We interviewed solid waste region representatives about communities filing for grant money or who had exemplary recycling programs. We asked the Missouri Coalition for the Environment for feedback and researched the U.S. Department of Energy Smart Communities Network’s success stories. We looked to web sites such as www.treehugger.com, www.organicconsumers.org, and the National Center for Appropriate Technology (www.ncat.org). These communities were selected for their current green efforts. Think your town belongs on the list? E-mail us at info@missourilife.com.

PARKER ESCHELMAN

21 O’FALLON BUILDING, WILLIAM A. K ERR FOUNDATION Rain barrels collect runoff water. Recycled bamboo and cork blanket countertops. Skylights and Solatubes guide light to the basement. These are some of William A. Kerr Foundation’s features that earned the renovated morethan-one-hundred-year-old bathhouse the top LEED ranking, with the help of Trumpet Builders and Vertegy consulting firm along with architect TMA. The Kerr family runs a nonprofit organization that provides charitable funding for organizations, including environmental-focused causes.

[90] MissouriLife

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AD 91

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STEVE MCQUEEN S L AT E R H O N O R S I T S FA M O U S A C T O R |

ALL THE GIRLS wanted to date him, and all the boys wanted to be him; but this quintessential bad boy was just trying to find his way. Many will recognize his face from the TV series Wanted: Dead or Alive or from movie roles in The Magnificent Seven and The Great Escape; however, Steve McQueen’s roots were planted in small-town Missouri. Born in 1930 near Indianapolis to Slater-native Jullian Crawford McQueen, Steve was abandoned by his father before his first birthday. His mother eventually returned to Slater in 1933, and it was there that Steve lived with his grandparents and then his great uncle, Claude Thomson, on his farm just outside of town until 1944. Throughout Steve’s childhood, Jullian tried to establish a stable life for herself and intermittently brought Steve to live with her. When he was in Indianapolis, however, he ran with a bad crowd and began to get in trouble for minor acts of juvenile delinquency. But Janice Sutton, his grade school teacher at the one-room Orearville School near Slater, remembers him as a smart aleck but not a real troublemaker. He wore a red baseball cap to school every day. When Steve was fourteen, his mother took him away from Slater and his great uncle’s farm for the last time. She had married a man by the name of Berry, and the three of them moved to Los Angeles. After Steve rebelled against her and his stepfather, Jullian placed him at the Boys Republic School in the Los Angeles suburb of Chino, according to McQueen biographer Marshall Terrill. There, too, Steve initially rebelled, running away a couple of times. Eventually, he responded positively to the consistent pattern of daily life at the school. He was even elected to the student government at the institution. Though he was there less than two years, the experience was so important to him that he repeatedly visited there after he became an international film star, and he left a sizable donation to the school in his will. After Steve left Boys Republic, having tried his hand at several occupations from carny to logger to seaman—he even claimed to have worked for a time as a “towel boy” at a bordello in the Dominican Republic—at the age of seventeen, he enlisted in the United States Marine Corps in 1947, where he was assigned the job of tank driver. Cliff Anderson of Liberty was a sergeant who bunked across the room from Steve when they were

By Dan Viets

both stationed at Quantico, Virginia. He remembers Steve was always the last one out of bed in the morning, and Cliff covered for McQueen several times when he returned late from his visits to a girlfriend in Baltimore. Despite the shenanigans, his years in the Marine Corps, like his time at Boys Republic, instilled a degree of self-discipline in him and broadened his perspective on the world. After leaving the military in 1950, Steve went to the Greenwich Village neighborhood in New York City. He worked at several jobs there, buying and driving motorcycles and sports cars around the village, earning the nickname “The Desperado,” Terrill says. He worked in a garage where he serviced James Dean’s motorcycle, before Steve himself had begun to study acting. Throughout his life, Steve’s fascination with machines never waned. As a child, he was fascinated with a tricycle his uncle gave him as well as the other machinery on the Thomson farm. He helped build a hot rod from pieces of other vehicles before he was old enough to drive. He became a serious motorcycle and race car driver while he developed his acting career. He and a partner competed in the twelvehour Sebring endurance race in 1970, coming in a close second to Mario Andretti in a car that had less horsepower than Andretti’s. He once said he was not sure whether he was an actor who raced or a racer who acted. At one crucial point, Steve was considering the options of either learning the trade of installing bathroom tile or studying acting as a friend had suggested. He later said he chose acting school because he thought he would meet more girls there, Terrill says. But some of the people who knew him as a child in Slater say Steve talked even then about becoming an actor someday. Steve earned a scholarship to Herbert Berghoff Drama School, a wellestablished acting school, and worked hard to learn his craft. He began to play minor off-Broadway roles and eventually took over the lead on Broadway in the play A Hatful of Rain, replacing Ben Gazzara. He traveled the country playing supporting roles before returning to New York City, where in 1956, he met actress Neile Adams. She went to

GETTY IMAGES

Steve Helped Build A Hot Rod From Pieces Of Other Vehicles Before He Was Old Enough To Drive.

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PROFILE 93

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Missouri Profile

Los Angeles to audition for a film role, and Steve followed her, proposing marriage. Neile devoted much of her energy to supporting the development of Steve’s career. Her manager got him the part of bounty hunter Josh Randall on the network television western series, Wanted: Dead or Alive. Steve’s career took off when he was cast as one of The Magnificent Seven, along with Yul Brynner, Robert Vaughn, James Coburn, and Charles Bronson. His status as a star was cemented when he played the iconoclastic Capt. Virgil Hilts, the “cooler king,” in the World War II drama The Great Escape, in which his character made a daring leap on a motorcycle over a barbed-wire fence. Throughout his career, Steve starred opposite several well-known leading ladies—Natalie Wood, Ann-Margret, Tuesday Weld, Suzanne Pleshette, Candice Bergen, Faye Dunaway, Jacqueline Bisset—as well as actors Dustin Hoffman and Paul Newman. He and Neile had two children: Chad, who followed in his father’s footsteps, both as a racer and an actor, and Terry, their daughter, who died in 1998. Chad’s son, Steve McQueen, named after his famous grandfather, is now an actor and appeared in the cable television series Everwood. Steve and Neile divorced in 1972, and Steve subsequently met and married actress Ali MacGraw. Steve and Ali split up in 1976. Steve then met and fell in love with supermodel Barbara Minty, who he later married. During the next few years, Steve and Barbara traveled the country indulging Steve’s passion for collecting antique motorcycles and biplanes. Both Barbara and Steve became licensed biplane pilots, and they moved to a house in Santa Paula, California, north of Los Angeles. After a four-year break from filmmaking, Steve and his company, Solar Productions, produced the last two films of his career: Tom Horn, based on a true story of the Old West, and The Hunter, in which he played a bounty hunter, a modern-day version of his television western character. In 1980, Steve was diagnosed with mesothelioma, a virulent form of lung cancer, which often results from exposure to asbestos. At the age of fifty, he died in a treatment center in Mexico. His remains were cremated and his ashes spread over the Pacific Ocean from a biplane, just as he had instructed.

From top: The Orearville school is now Abbotts Chapel at Slater. Checking out one of his antique motorcycles, Steve McQueen owned two hundred of them. Later, Steve’s passion turned to airplanes. He went to Hayti, Missouri, to purchase this yellow Stearman from Dick Reade of Mid-Continent Aircraft.

On March 28-29, Slater will hold the Second Annual Steve McQueen Days. Steve’s widow, Barbara Minty; filmmaker and friend Richard Martin; his stuntman, Loren Janes; Cliff Anderson; and others who knew Steve as a young boy in Slater will gather to watch his films, enjoy Steve’s passion for cars and motorcycles at a classic car and antique motorcycle show, and visit the Orearville school and the Thomson farm. Call 573-819-2669 or visit www.cityofslater.com/steve_mcqueen_ day2008.htm for more information.

courtesy of barbara minty; dan viets

Steve McQueen Days

[94] MissouriLife

PROFILE 94

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[95] April 2008

3/5/08 9:14:35 PM

wild Civil War Series

INTO THE

MIKE MCARTHY

IRISH IMMIGRANTS DISAPPEAR DURING THE CIVIL WAR STRUGGLE

[96] MissouriLife

CIVIL WAR 96

3/5/08 9:02:02 PM

lush forest stands in southeastern Missouri between the Current and Eleven Point rivers with deep caves, sinkholes, disappearing streams, and rocky bluffs. The 16,500-acre wilderness, northwest of Doniphan, appears to be untouched by humanity. Yet, 150 years ago, a group of Irish immigrants settled here. They made clearings in the woods, built cabins, planted crops—then they disappeared. John Joseph Hogan founded this community. He came to America during Ireland’s potato famine of the 1840s and became a Catholic priest at St. Louis. His parish included young Irish men and women who had also left their homeland to better themselves, but found little success. They did not fit into American society, being stereotyped as violent, undisciplined, and illiterate. And they were suspect because they were Catholic. In his memoir, On the Mission in Missouri, Hogan wrote that the young men, “not finding work in the cities and there being no work for them on farms in competition with slave labor, were obliged to seek employment on the railroads and to live in camps and move from place to place.”

By Ann Vernon

[97] December 2007

CIVIL WAR 97

3/6/08 3:26:06 PM

Father John Hogan led a group of Irish into the wilderness of southeast Missouri. “The quiet ... seemed to inspire devotion. Nowhere could the human soul so profoundly worship,” he wrote.

He recalled the young women fared somewhat better as housekeepers and cooks. The work was strenuous, and aside from attending Mass, their social life was virtually nonexistent. Hogan was concerned about the young immigrants who lacked family life. He felt they needed to be in a faith community where they could marry, raise good Catholic children, and prosper. “It seemed to me to be my duty to do whatever might be in my power to aid these people to rise from their condition of servitude to ownership and cultivation of land,” he wrote. In 1857, the priest took a leave of absence from St. Louis and began touring Missouri looking for property where he could start the new community. His timing was perfect: The Financial Crash of 1857 left many businesses in financial ruin; public works (and many jobs) were suspended. Hogan looked throughout northern Missouri for viable land, but it was expensive, sometimes ten dollars to twenty dollars an acre. In the south, however, he learned that Ripley, Oregon, and Howell counties had government land that sold for 12.5 cents to $1.25 an acre. The land could be tilled for orchards and gardens. It had plenty of timber to build cabins and barns. There was pure water from streams and springs, meadows for grazing livestock, and plenty

of wildlife. And, he reasoned, the winters would be more tolerable than in northern Missouri. He bought a few acres at the eastern edge of Oregon County and built a log house some forty feet square. Half of it was laid out for a chapel; the other half served as the priest’s home. In 1858, the Irish began to come. By the next spring, he wrote, “there were about forty families ... and many more were coming.” They bought land and joined settlers from North Carolina and Tennessee who had come to the area a few years before. These were warm, welcoming people who occasionally met with the Irish. Some joined the congregation for worship. Some local Protestant preachers were displeased about the Catholic settlement and began to hold meetings and revivals in competition. One was a Baptist preacher named Tim Reeves, who later became a notorious guerrilla leader. Father Hogan recalled a day when Reeves interrupted a Catholic baptism and made slanderous remarks to the congregation, but no violence resulted. Once Father Hogan established the wilderness community, he developed other missions in Macon City, Brookfield, Mexico, and Cameron and was appointed to a large church in Chillicothe. Dividing his time between these congregations was difficult. Still, in the south, the Irish prospered. Then, political unrest spread throughout Missouri and Kansas, and that unrest evolved into border wars, bloody raids, and finally, full-fledged war. It wasn’t until 1863 that fighting came to the woodlands. Official records of the Union and Confederate armies indicate both were in the area during that time. On May 11, 1863, Confederate Col. John Burbridge expected to rendezvous with Col. Joseph Shelby at Williams Creek, but Shelby proceeded on, leaving Burbridge to wander through a country known as “the wilderness.” Union Maj. James Wilson of the Third Missouri State Militia Cavalry reported altercations with a party of guerrillas between the Current and Eleven Point rivers in October 1863. That November, Lt. John W. Boyd, Sixth Provisional Regiment Enrolled Missouri Militia, came upon residences at Jack’s Fork known to be the homes of Southern sympathizers. These homes were burned, and property owners scattered. Capt. Robert McElroy, Third Missouri State Militia Cavalry, bivouacked his troops near the

Eleven Point River in late fall of 1863 and engaged the enemy. In his report, he hoped “that portion of the State, once cleaned of these marauders, jayhawkers, and thieves, and we will have peace throughout South Missouri.” Christmas Day, 1863, in Ripley County, Major Wilson interrupted Col. Tim Reeves and more than three hundred officers, civilians, and Union prisoners in the midst of dinner. During the attack, thirtyfive Confederates were killed; Reeves escaped. By 1865, although the war was officially over, unrest continued for many years in the wilds of Missouri, and bands of outlaws hid in the caves and ravines. The Irish disappeared and nobody knows what happened to them. Some suggested they were all killed. Speculation became folklore. But there are a few clues that indicate real possibilities. In 1863, Major Wilson reported that on October 21, he sent Capt. G.L. Herring to Pilot Knob to “escort a train of refugees from Oregon County.” Could these have been the Irish? Years later, Father Hogan had insights about the disappearance of his flock. “My poor settlements suffered irretrievably. The one in Southern Missouri especially became broken and scattered … Ripley County, in which my Southern Settlement was principally located, suffered more than any other part of the State. The peacefully inclined fled in terror … to places of safety—to the Pacific shores, to the Canada borders, to countries beyond the sea.” After the war, only a few settlers returned to the wilderness. Moonshiners found refuge in the rough terrain and hunters stalked the woods. In the late 1880s the wilderness was taken over by loggers. Trees were leveled, and the forest became a wasteland. It took until the 1930s for the woodlands and wildlife to be restored, thanks to the Forest Service and the Civilian Conservation Corps. But in the 1950s, threats of river damming, lead mining, and power plants plagued the area. Today, the Irish Wilderness is alive and well. It is part of the Mark Twain National Forest, where hikers and canoeists enjoy and respect the beautiful land. Some campers say that to go to the Irish Wilderness is a religious experience. The native shortleaf pine has renewed itself, and there is a profusion of oak, hickory, dogwood, persimmon, and sassafras. Deer, fox, bobcat, turkey vultures, heron, and songbirds abound. The land has returned to its original wildness, where mankind has left no trace.

COURTESY OF CATHOLIC DIOCESE OF KANSAS CITY

Civil War Series

[98] MissouriLife

CIVIL WAR 98

3/5/08 8:23:40 PM

2008 Civil War Guide Museums and Mansions Rich Civil War history ripples throughout Missouri in museums and mansions that dot the landscape. Use this list as a guide to find stories that speak to you. Athens

Burfordville

Cole Camp

Bollinger Mill State Historic Site 113 Bollinger Mill Road 573-243-4591 www.mostateparks.com/bollinger.htm

Cole Camp Museum 108 South Maple Street 660-668-2295 www.colecampmissouri.com

Stars and Stripes National Military Museum Library 17377 Stars and Stripes Way 573-568-2055 www.starsandstripesmuseumlibrary.org

Carthage

Columbia

Battle of Carthage Civil War Museum 205 Grant Street 417-237-7060 www.carthage-mo.gov

The State Historical Society of Missouri 1020 Lowry Street 573-882-7083 www.shs.umsystem.edu

Boonville

Centralia

Cuba

Old Cooper County Jail and Hanging Barn 614 East Morgan Street 660-882-7977 www.friendsofhistoricboonville.org

Centralia Historical Society Museum 319 East Sneed Street 573-682-5711 centralia.missouri.org/history.shtml

Crawford County Historical Museum 308 North Smith Street 573-885-6099 www.rootsweb.com/~mocrawfo/cchs.htm

Thespian Hall 522 Main Street 660-882-7458 www.friendsofhistoricboonville.org

Clinton

Doniphan

Henry County Historical Museum 203 West Franklin 660-885-8414

Current River Heritage Museum 101 Washington 573-996-5298

Battle of Athens State Historic Site Thome-Benning House 660-877-3871 www.mostateparks.com/athens.htm

COURTESY OF MISSOURI DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM

BloomďŹ eld

[99] April 2008

CIVIL WAR GUIDE 99

3/6/08 2:10:35 PM

2008 Civil War Guide Drexel Frontier Military Museum Route 1 Box 108 816-657-3346

Cole County Historical Society Museum 109 Madison Street 573-635-1850 www.colecohistsoc.org

Fredericktown

Kansas City

New Madrid Hunter-Dawson State Historic Site 312 Dawson Road 573-748-5340 www.mostateparks.com/hunterdawson.htm

Battle of Fredericktown Civil War Museum 156 South Main 573-576-8528 www.fhphistory.org

John Wornall House Museum 6115 Wornall Road 816-444-1858 www.wornallhouse.org

New Madrid Historical Museum 1 Main Street 573-748-5944 www.newmadridmuseum.com

Fulton

Kearney

Newtonia

The Kingdom of Callaway Historical Society 513 Court Street 573-642-0570 www.kchsoc.org

James Farm Museum 21216 James Farm Road 816-628-6065 www.jessejames.org

Higginsville

Keytesville

Ritchey Mansion House 520 Mill Street 417-592-0531

Pilot Knob Fort Davidson State Historic Site 573-546-3454 www.mostateparks.com/ftdavidson.htm

Confederate Memorial State Historic Site 211 West First Street 660-584-2853 www.mostateparks.com/confedmem.htm

General Sterling Price Museum 412 West Bridge Street 660-288-3204

Independence

Battle of Lexington State Historic Site 1101 Deleware Street 660-259 4654 www.mostateparks.com/lexington.htm

1859 Jail and Marshal’s Home and Museum 217 North Main Street 816-252-1892 www.jchs.org

Memphis

Bingham-Waggoner Estate 313 West Pacific 816-461-3491 www.bwestate.org

William G. Downing Museum 311 South Main Street 660-465-2275

Jefferson City

Bushwhacker Museum 212 West Walnut 417-667-9602 www.bushwhacker.org

Missouri State Museum 201 West Capitol Avenue 573-751-2854

Republic

Lexington

Nevada

Gen. Sterling Price Museum Keytesville, MO

Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield 6424 West Farm Road 182 417-732-2662 www.nps.gov/wicr General Sweeny’s Civil War Museum 5228 South State Highway ZZ 417-732-1224 www.civilwarmuseum.com

Salisbury Chariton County Historical Society Museum 115 East Second Street 660-388-5941 users.cvalley.net/museum

The 12th Annual

Civil War on the Border April 19 & 20, 2008

“The Lee of the West”

Saturday 10 am - 4 pm and Sunday 11 am - 3 pm

Chariton Co. Historical Society Salisbury, MO Janet Weaver 660-288-3425

Mahaffie Stagecoach Stop

Olathe, Kansas Call 913-971-5111 for information.

users.cvalley.net/museum [100] MissouriLife

CIVIL WAR GUIDE 100

3/6/08 2:09:49 PM

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7 Museums 10 Historic Register buildings 2 Universities Civil War battlefield Kirksville Arts Center Summer on the Square concerts

Huge white tail deer Musky, bass, and trout fishing Kayaking, mountain biking, and hiking 1000 Hills State Park Antiques Amish Weekly Farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Market Red Barn Arts Fair

Ma Cal rk Y Ap en o Ma ril 12 da ur r Ma y 3-R -Oste ! o y o

PHOTO BY CHARLES L. WILSON

Mine Creek/Marais des Cygnes State Historic Sites Fighting for a Cause One was the site of a massacre fueled by the conflict between proslavery men and Free Staters. The other was

pa u 18- nd Ba thic R SP rn u Gr BGM Blue n ass A s Fes Blu tiva e l

15-

294 hotel rooms 2 B&Bs 38 restaurants

1BUUFSOT t 8FBQPOT t "DDFTTPSJFT t 3FTFBSDI 0VS 4QFDJBMUZ Â&#x2030; 5IF #03%&3 8"34

the site of the only Civil War battle in Kansas and one of the largest cavalry battles in the war overall. Both tell the story of Kansas struggling in its infancy and the people who paid the price.

Pleasanton and Trading Post 913-352-8890 kshs.org/places/minecreek kshs.org/places/marais

www.visitkirksville.com or contact Debi at kvtourism@cableone.net

REAL PEOPLE. REAL STORIES. [101] April 2008

CIVIL WAR GUIDE 101

3/5/08 3:02:13 PM

2008 Civil War Guide Springfield History Museum for Springfield-Greene County 830 Boonville 417-864-1976 www.springfieldhistorymuseum.org.

St. Joseph Pony Express Museum 914 Penn Street 816-279-5059 www.ponyexpress.org

St. Louis Old Courthouse Jefferson National Expansion Memorial 11 North Fourth Street 314-655-1700 www.nps.gov/jeff Jefferson Barracks 251 Cy Road 314-638-2100 www.co.st-louis.mo.us/parks/jb-museum.html

Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site 7400 Grant Road 314-842-3298 www.nps.gov/ulsg The Missouri History Museum 5700 Lindell Boulevard 314-746-4599 www.mohistory.org Washington University, Olin Library 1 Brookings Drive 314-935-5410 www.library.wustl.edu

Waynesville Old Stagecoach Stop 106 Linn Street, Courthouse Square 573-435-6766 www.oldstagecoachstop.org

Weston Weston Historical Museum 601 Main Street 816-386-2977 westonhistoricalmuseum.org

West Plains Harlin Museum 405 Worcester Street 417-256-7801 www.harlinhousemuseum.homestead.com

Westport District at Kansas City Westport Historical Society Museum 1855 Harris-Kearney House 4000 Baltimore 816-561-1821 www.westporthistorical.org Battle of Westport Visitor Center (open May 1) 6601 Swope Parkway 913-345-2000

Lexington... Come for the History... The Fight Over the Dead Sept. 20, 2008

Battle of Lexington State Historical Site For more information call 660-259-4654 or visit www.mostateparks.com/lexington/index.html

Stay for the Experience Visit www.historiclexington.com for a comprehensive calendar of events. [102] MissouriLife

CIVIL WAR GUIDE 102

3/6/08 2:09:05 PM

Shawnee Indian Mission State Historic Site

Constitution Hall State Historic Site

Sallie Bluejacket

James Henry Lane

Westward expansion in the 19th century meant the end of a way of life for countless American Indians. Some, like Sallie Bluejacket, attended manual training schools like the one at the Shawnee Mission. Learn more about these people and their stories when you visit this crossroads of cultures.

To some, Lane was a statesman. To others he was a ruthless Jayhawker. Decide for yourself when you visit the place that was a hotbed of political activity during Kansas’ territorial days.

319 Elmore, Lecompton 785-887-6520 kshs.org/places/constitution

3403 West 53rd, Fairway 913-262-0867 kshs.org/places/shawnee

REAL PEOPLE. REAL STORIES.

One of the best kept secrets of Missouri...

John Brown Museum State Historic Site John Brown Whether you consider him a terrorist or a hero, there’s no doubt that John Brown played a key role in the history along the Kansas/Missouri border. Learn more about “Osawatomie Brown” and Bleeding Kansas when you visit the cabin John Brown used for his headquarters.

For more information, contact The Harney Mansion Foundation at 573-468-6847. Under their ownership, they have been able to stabilize, tuck point and secure the building and install a new roof and sub-ﬂooring to decrease deterioration. Tax credits are available to restore the mansion for a community center and museum.

10th & Main Street, Osawatomie 913-755-4384 kshs.org/places/johnbrown

REAL PEOPLE. REAL STORIES. [103] April 2008

CIVIL WAR GUIDE 103

3/5/08 3:03:28 PM

DREWeAWiMsh WeHCoOuldMLivEeS Places

GARDEN GETAWAYS By Stefani Kronk

No Passport Required!

Joie de Virvre

Tuscan Oasis

Jolly Good

$450,000

$3,300,000

$2,500,000

Those with a penchant for old-world style

For a Tuscan-villa feel in the middle of the

Look no further than this turreted English-

will be transported to the days of early

Show-Me State, this home provides an

style castle for an enchanting knight’s

French colonialism in this historic home with

owner with an elegant Italian oasis. Take

tale. This seven-thousand-square-foot brick

a green, one-acre garden retreat that is a

a dip in the heated pool with a graceful

and stone masterpiece features four bed-

perfect getaway from today’s hectic world.

negative edge waterfall. After working up a

rooms, a media room, an office, and an

Pick a sweet smelling bouquet from the rose

hunger swimming laps, a slate and gran-

exercise room.

gardens or take a stroll under lush grape

ite outdoor kitchen is the perfect place

arbors. Stone pathways meander through

to whip up a tomato and basil salad and

outdoor deck with views of Missouri wine

manicured lawns complete with old branch-

enjoy a glass of wine.

country. This elegant outdoor space is the

ing trees where one can sit and read. After a stroll, enjoy a cool glass of lem-

350 Via Cresta, Porto Cima

For more adventurous types, 180 feet of picturesque waterfront is a perfect

onade on the large side porch. Then, retire

place to join the frivolity and fun of Lake

inside the home built by Jean Baptiste Vallé

of the Ozarks.

in 1785. Original upright log walls, a stone

505 Pheasant Run Circle, St. Albans

Tea and crumpets are served on the large

perfect vantage point for looking over your private kingdom. Take a short hike through the wooded, ten-acre lot or if you prefer, spend an

After a day of play, retreat inside to the

afternoon playing a civilized game of

basement, and exposed oak ceiling meet

stone wine cellar to pick a wine to enjoy

cricket on the lawn. Later, curl up with a

with contemporary amenities such as a

while watching the Benigni film La vita e'

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle mystery inside the

newly renovated kitchen.

bella on the home theater system. Prego!

hidden study.

Terri Matheis

Janna Mannis

Lisa Cushing

Dielmann Sotheby’s International Realty

Gaslight Properties, GMAC Real Estate

Coldwell Banker Gundaker Town & Country

314-725-0009

573-365-8874

636-394-9300

COURTESY OF THE REALTORS

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[104] MissouriLife

DREAM HOMES 104

3/4/08 6:37:58 PM

BEAUTIFUL SANTA FE RIDGE SUBDIVISION A PREMIER RESIDENTIAL LAKE DEVELOPMENT

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AD 105

3/4/08 6:42:24 PM

EL L TaryRCuAV EFU TAST lture r Unique Culin Ou

A TASTE OF ITALIA

THEY CAME. They stayed. They made pasta. The Italian immigrants of The Hill at St. Louis built their neighborhood of bricks made from the clay mines below, but the mortar that held their culture together was food. In addition to all the home chefs in the area, there are nineteen-plus restaurants at The Hill, according to The Hill Business Association. They sit among narrow shotgun houses with scrubbed front steps, near The Italian Immigrants statue on the corner of Wilson and Marconi at the parish church, St. Ambrose. All of these structures stand in a fifty-sixblock area with a square-shouldered sturdiness. A visitor can almost feel the hard work, pride, and heritage steeped in the neighborhood. And, according to Eric Vogel, operating partner of Charlie Gitto’s on The Hill, when you talk about Italian culture, you are talking about food. “It’s the way of life. If you ask an Italian what he’s thinking about, it is the next meal.” Eric says. Experts, such as Rowland Berthoff in An Unsettled People, say that modern life is “essentially uncommunal,” and this creates social ill. But the connection between neighbors on The Hill has always been strong; perhaps it was because of the connection to their homeland or the labor of working in clay mines and brick factories or the daily walk up the hill home from those jobs thinking about fresh-made pastas. In fact, 75 percent of the neighborhood remains Italian, according to www.stlouis.about.com. A bird’s-eye view of The Hill would reveal rows of rooftops that resemble rail cars—narrow and long in their yards. In fact, the homes are designed a bit like the rail cars that brought their occupants to the mines and factories at the turn of the century: parents at the front, children From left: One-story brick homes began appearing on The Hill in 1906; one can almost feel the hard work, pride, and heritage with which they were built. Gelato, from Amighetti’s or Charlie Gitto’s, is a wonderful finish to a meal.

at the back, and a kitchen in the middle for meals together. It’s hard to say whether the shotgun-style homes were modeled after the train cars that brought the settlers across the Midwest from New York, though the design complemented the Italian preference for making the kitchen the center of home and life. There was very little habitation on The Hill before 1890, according to the “History of St. Louis Neighborhoods,” by Norbury L. Wagman. But 1904, 1905, and 1906 brought in immigrants like never before. One-story brick homes began appearing, and the cornerstone for St. Ambrose Parochial School was laid in 1906. Today, the narrow homes have newer second stories added on top to keep growing families from moving elsewhere. Small scenes of Mary or the Holy Family, in niches of ivy or spotlighted, dot the fronts of some of the homes, and thick vines of settled gardens enliven small yards. Fire hydrants along the streets are painted green, white, and red, the colors of the Italian flag. Many residents of The Hill are descendants of immigrants who left Lombardy and Sicily. These diverse regions of Italy found common ground in the work of clay mines or in the brick making from that clay in St. Louis. At the turn of the century, after a day spent loading clay in rail cars for forty cents per car or pushing wheelbarrows full of bricks for fifteen cents an hour, according to Eleanor Berra Marfisi in The Hill: Its History—Its Recipes, the men would wend their way home up the steep, muddy hill near the highest point in the city, hence earning the neighborhood its moniker. The area’s strong sense of community saved The Hill several times, Marfisi says. In 1956, plans for Interstate 44 bisected The Hill, cutting off 150 families. In the 1960s, a local lead company petitioned to pump slurry into abandoned clay mines under The Hill’s foundations, and a drive-in theater was once planned amongst the residential streets. Residents of the

ANDREW BARTON

ST. LOUIS NEIGHBORHOOD SERVES UP ITALY | By Nina Furstenau

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Tasteful Traveler

ANDREW BARTON

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area rallied to raise fifty thousand dollars to add an overpass to Interstate 44 and keep the neighborhood intact, to deny the permit to dump waste into the mines, and to stop the building of the drive-in. This focus and sense of purpose kept the community feel of The Hill in place throughout the century and has served up a restaurant district in St. Louis straight out of the Old World. The foods found in The Hill’s restaurants and grocery stores reflect the homeland of its settlers. Italian cuisine, whether northern or southern, can be seen in restaurant dishes that encompass far more than pasta—dishes like zuppa di pesce (fish soup), risotto with fresh tomato, Milanese-style veal chops, and zucchini bruschetta. The dishes from the north reflect a more pastoral land, Eric says. “There’s more milk and more cream in those dishes, and you get more tubular pastas.” In southern dishes, the pastas are often flat and dishes like putinesca, with hand-squeezed plum tomatoes, kalamata olives, and anchovies, are more common. One recipe developed independently of Italy, however: St. Louis’s own toasted ravioli. A certain American fusion is noticeable in this dish and, if the rumor about its origin is true, a certain admonition not to waste your food helped. Neighborhood lore from The Hill has it that toasted ravioli was invented at Angelo’s at The Hill in 1947 when the chef was transferring ravioli to a pan and it fell into bread crumbs. Instead of throwing the dropped pieces out, he tried frying the accidentally breaded pasta, and an indulgence was born. On The Hill, toasted ravioli dough is made from scratch with beef and veal in the filling. Tangy dipping sauce serves to draw out the flavors. Charlie Gitto’s on The Hill, now in the spot of Angelo’s, offers up “the original” toasted ravioli for diners. Entering the restaurant is a step into warm greetings and deep colors. A long bar, with wine stems hanging above the far end, flanks the right side of the front room. The mirrors, iron scrollwork, and wood-beamed ceilings create intimacy and contrast to the white-tablecloth setting. The restaurant seats 150 after a renovation enclosed a long courtyard in 1989. A walled portion of courtyard still exists with outdoor seating and can be seen through leaded-glass partitions. Toasted ravioli is a tasty start to a meal here. Though some chain restaurants are starting to serve versions of this Missouri classic, the tangy sauce that accompanies the made-from-scratch, beef-and-veal-stuffed ravioli cannot be beat. Next, try Veal or Chicken Nunzio, named after Charlie’s late brother. The veal version consists of pan-seared thinly sliced veal with a white wine and lemon butter sauce. Jumbo lump crabmeat and Provel cheese garnish the veal beautifully. (Provel cheese is a blend of provolone, Swiss, and cheddar. It is exclusively made and distributed by Roma groceries of St. Louis.) Sweet potato soufflé and roasted eggplant cannelloni accompany the entree. Another enticing option for pasta lovers is Penne Borghese in which brandy-glazed, diced yellow onions and prosciutto enliven a cream pomodoro sauce. To finish, tiramisu made on-site is tall, delicate, and rich.

Neighborhood Lore Says Toasted Ravioli Was Invented At Angelo’s.

Freshly made gelato is also offered. Certified wine sommeliers on the floor assist with the perfect selections, and fresh produce, taken directly from the restaurant garden, is used whenever possible. Fresh-baked bread from Fazio’s Bakery at The Hill, excellent coffee, and service make a meal at Charlie Gitto’s a pleasure. Gitto is a well-known name in the restaurant business in St. Louis. Charlie Gitto’s on The Hill began after Charlie Jr. purchased Angelo’s in From left: Amighetti’s Bakery & Cafe is known for its freshly made, Italian bread sandwiches. The Italian Immigrants, sculpted in 1971 by Rudy Torrini, stands at Marconi and Wilson streets outside St. Ambrose church.

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TASTEFUL TRAVELER

From top: Viviano’s & Sons sells everything from Italian wines to grape leaves. Charlie Gitto’s features classic Italian dishes made from scratch. Fresh pastries, available at the Missouri Baking Co., accompany an espresso nicely.

1981. In 2004 he opened Charlie Gitto’s in Harrah’s casino. His father, most certainly, began the restaurateur’s interest in the business. Charlie Sr., who was inducted into the Missouri Restaurant Hall of Fame in 2005, was maitre d’ of Angelo’s prior to his 1974 opening of Charlie Gitto’s Pasta House near the St. Louis baseball stadium. The family was always surrounded by Italian foods made from scratch—even the tomato paste was made from homegrown tomatoes out of the back garden. This influence reached out to brother Johnny Gitto, who operates Johnny Gitto’s in south St. Louis. In addition to the fine foods, The Hill has another draw for fans of baseball. Three members of the Baseball Hall of Fame lived within one block of Elizabeth Avenue. Yogi Berra and Joe Garagiola grew up across the street from one another. And broadcaster Jack Buck bought his first home here. For soccer fans, visit Soccer Hall of Fame Place, on Daggett Avenue between Shaw’s Coffee and St. Ambrose Catholic Church. Five Hill residents from the 1950 U.S. World Cup soccer team are honored here for their upset of number one ranked England. When visiting The Hill, go early and check out the foods available at Viviano’s & Sons grocery at 5139 Shaw Avenue. It’s a wonderful place made somehow complete with family photos on the walls and a poster near the register of The Sands in Las Vegas with Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jr., Peter Lawford, and Joey Bishop lounging in front. You’ll also find Italian wines, balsamic vinegar, a full half-aisle of olive oil choices, asiago and other cheeses, frozen cannelloni, sausages, and savories, such as jars of straw mushrooms, sea clams, and grape leaves. Feast your eyes on pastas like pastina cellentani (twisted macaroni), ziti, rigatoni, linguine sold in packages with Italian descriptions or wrapped in white paper for bulk sales. In the early days, John Viviano would extend credit to his customers in a credit book that patrons could pay off as they were able, Marfisi says. It’s the kind of store that seems as if it still might do so. If you plan your trip right, you’ll be able to squeeze in Amighetti’s Cafe and Bakery at 5141 Wilson Avenue for lunch. It’s worth a stop, and a deep breath. The aroma is straight-up bakery—tantalizing and yeasty, making you want to reach for the butter. They are known for the Amighetti Special and Little Bit of Italy sandwiches that have freshly made Italian bread as a base and a host of toppings, including fresh mozzarella and brick cheeses, Genoa salami, ham, olives, onions, special sauce, and garlic butter. Bakery cannoli is a good choice for a sweet, complete with flaky bits of crust that will dust your shirt front as you chew. Be sure to see the statue of The Italian Immigrants at Marconi and Wilson streets outside St. Ambrose church. After you look over the Rudy Torrini piece, consider a stop at Milo’s Bocce Garden at 5201 Wilson Avenue, just behind you. Bocce, a game played by eight people in two teams, has a rectangular court with a short wall on its borders. Milo’s has courts behind his tavern for those wanting to try a toss. After strolling The Hill, the mix of beauty, flavor, and history lingers long after you leave. It is a postcard of Americana—neat rows of small homes, clean streets, grocers, and restaurants—and here and there, a bocce court. Visit www.explorestlouis.com/visitors/theHill.asp, www.charliegittos. com, or www.shopviviano.com for more information.

ANDREW BARTON

[110] MissouriLife

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[111] April 2008

AD 107

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MISSOU RI RECIPES Easy Toasted Ravioli

–MissouriLife –

Veal Nunzio

Courtesy of Charlie Gitto’s On The Hill Ingredients: 2 8-ounce portions veal tenderloin, sliced 1 cup flour 12 tablespoons butter 8 ounces white wine 1 fresh squeezed lemon, reserve juice Salt and pepper to taste 8 ounces crabmeat 4 ounces Provel cheese, sliced Fresh grilled vegetables (for garnish)

Directions: Cut veal tenderloin into 2-ounce medallions and pound until very thin. Flour, then sauté in 4 tablespoons butter. Remove the meat and set aside. Deglaze the pan with white wine, lemon juice, and remaining cold butter to make sauce. Salt and pepper to taste. Place veal medallions on a plate, overlapping one another for a shingled appearance. Place fresh crabmeat and sliced Provel cheese on top of the veal. Bake until cheese melts. Add an appropriate portion of sauce to cover, and garnish with asparagus or fresh grilled vegetables. Serves 2-4.

Veal Nunzio

Penne Borghese

–MissouriLife –

Penne Borghese

–MissouriLife –

Courtesy of Charlie Gitto’s On The Hill

Easy Toasted Ravioli

Ingredients: 6 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup yellow onion, finely diced ½ cup prosciutto, diced 3 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 6 tablespoons cognac 6 ounces tomato sauce 3 cups heavy cream Salt and pepper to taste 1 pound penne noodles, cooked according to package directions

Courtesy of Charlie Gitto’s On The Hill

Ingredients: 1 cup milk 1 large egg, lightly beaten 2 cups dry Italian-seasoned bread crumbs 1 package meat ravioli 2 quarts vegetable oil for frying Parmesan cheese, grated Fresh tomato sauce

Directions: Heat oil in a medium sauté pan. Add onion, prosciutto, and parsley, and cook until onions are translucent. Remove pan from heat. Drain and remove onion mixture from pan; set aside. Pour out remaining oil. Pour cognac into pan. Scrape with a wooden spoon to loosen any brown bits. Return onion mixture to pan, and return to heat. Add tomato sauce and cream; salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer, and add penne. Cook until penne is hot and sauce has reduced slightly. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

Directions: Combine milk and egg in a bowl, making an egg wash. Place bread crumbs in a separate bowl. Dip frozen ravioli in egg wash and coat with bread crumbs. Place in hot oil (350 degrees). Fry ravioli until golden brown. Place on drainboard, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, and serve immediately with tomato sauce. Serves 4.

ANDREW BARTON

Recipe is adapted from “The Original” toasted ravioli served in the restaurant.

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[114] MissouriLife

WINE 114

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[118] MissouriLife

AD 118

3/5/08 8:55:20 PM

MISSOURI JOU RNAL The Mean ing of Our Special Places

FRENCH LESSONS

BILL NAEGER

STE. GENEVIEVE HELPS US LOOK BACK … AND FORWARD|

APRIL 2008 JOURNAL 119

By Arthur Mehrhoff

“We’ll do the best we know. We’ll build our house and chop our wood and make our garden grow…” —Leonard Bernstein’s lyrics to Voltaire’s Candide

3/6/08 1:40:19 PM

MISSOURI JOURNAL

SOME PEOPLE sample and collect fine wines, but I like to collect and savor vintage museum experiences. Following a workshop last spring at Cape Girardeau, I visited the Felix Vallé House State Historic Site in historic Ste. Genevieve. The experience of discovering a truly unique aspect of Missouri life interpreted by a first-rate museum made this French-American varietal a very special vintage indeed. While Missouri was the American frontier for a very long period of American history, it was also the New World long before there even was an America. My German ancestors in the nineteenth century envisioned the Missouri River valley as a New Germany that would preserve their culture in an abundant natural setting; many French people a century before them also projected their dream of a New France into the fertile river valleys of North America. Missouri had a way of transforming such cultural dreams, though, and the Felix Vallé House State Historic Site at Ste. Genevieve tells the story of what happened in the New World to their dream of a New France. The Felix Vallé House State Historic Site in historic Ste. Genevieve

offers visitors an opportunity to see how French cultural traditions, especially their unique architectural style, were translated here on the Missouri frontier. The site features the 1792 Amoureaux House, a rare example of traditional French architecture in North America, and the 1818 Felix Vallé House, a residence and mercantile store that interprets American influence on this French community following the Louisiana Purchase and subsequent American settlement. Telling the story does require a little bit of French vocabulary. Parlez-vous Francais?

Les Habitants Or as Mr. Rogers might say, who are the people in your village? Ste. Genevieve was founded by French Canadians (the term Cajun, for example, is a shortened version of Acadians, people from a region in Quebec) who followed the explorations of Joliet and Marquette. According to Bonnie Stepenoff of Southeast Missouri State University in her book From French Community to Missouri Town: Ste. Genevieve

GREG WOOD; COURTESY OF MISSOURI DIVISION OF TOURISM

From top: This house belonged to the last commandant at Ste. Genevieve; it is not open to the public. The Jacob Philipson House has living quarters and a merchant’s store; it is operated by the Missouri Department of Natural Resources and open to the public year-round. Opposite: A stone marker, erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution, heralds the El Camino Real, or King’s Highway. The Ste. Genevieve Catholic Church in the background was completed in 1879, with the placing of the cross onto the steeple. Previous page: The Bolduc House once belonged to Louis Bolduc, a lead miner, a merchant, and a planter.

[120] MissouriLife

APRIL 2008 JOURNAL 120

3/6/08 10:50:06 AM

greg Wood

[121] April 2008

APRIL 2008 JOURNAL 121

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MISSOURI JOURNAL

in the 19th Century, by 1750 Ste. Genevieve was a mature village of some six hundred people. It was also a diverse, Creole society, free and slave, French, French Canadian, American-born French of mixed racial backgrounds with few traditional feudal obligations on land ownership, opportunities for a rising merchant class, and even strong rights for women under the law. More French moved west across the Mississippi River after 1763 in the wake of the French loss to England during the French and Indian War. Even though France ceded its western land claims to Spain, Ste. Genevieve remained a French colonial village with light Spanish control or influence. At the Felix Vallé House, you can see how Americanization and mercantile capitalism brought dramatic changes to this unique cultural landscape. As contemporary America struggles mightily with the concept From top: Ste. Genevieve residents dress in colonial costumes and recreate the past during Jour de Fête in August. Right: The 1792 Bauvais-Amoreaux House on the Felix-Vallé House State Historic Site is an example of poteaux en terre, where logs are stood upright in an earthen trench to form walls.

COURTESY OF MISSOURI DIVISION OF TOURISM

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MISSOURI JOURNAL

and issues of cultural diversity, we might want to consider going back to this period and talking with les habitants about their experiences.

Le Grand Champ The Great Field, or common land, at Ste. Genevieve, represents both a unique and tangible system of land allocation and some highly intangible French beliefs about the New World. Le Grand Champ was three thousand acres of rich, alluvial soil given to Ste. Genevieve by King Louis XIV as common lands. The land was then divided into extremely long, narrow lots, one mile long and 192 feet wide, reaching all the way down to the river. This system of long lot subdivision ensured all farmers in the village access to good river land and reinforced village life, still a core value of French culture. You can still see the long-lot pattern from the air in Louisiana parishes, and you can still see the pattern of tight little villages surrounded by open space on train trips across Quebec. Or you can come here and see both in an impressive diorama of Ste. Genevieve in 1832, on display at the 1792 Amoureaux House.

Behind the very practical applications of long-lot subdivision lay some very deep-seated French beliefs about liberté and equalité. In his famous novel Candide, French Enlightenment philosopher Voltaire criticized European society but ultimately recommended tending one’s garden rather than revolution as the answer. Although he strongly criticized French colonial policy, he, too, envisioned New France as the garden of the world, an abundant new natural environment where Frenchmen could escape from rapid population growth, crowded cities, and oppressive social institutions. As I watch development oozing across the Missouri landscape, I think about Voltaire and Le Grand Champ quite a bit.

Poteaux en Terre The Amoureaux House faces Le Grand Champ but adds some new vocabulary to our French lessons. The walls of the Amoureaux House were formed from thick, hand-hewn logs that were then set upright in a style known as poteaux en terre, or posts in the ground. It is one of only five known surviving examples of this style in the United States.

BILL NAEGER

[124] MissouriLife

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GREG WOOD

The vernacular, or common, style of the building is that of the French Norman countryside, but quite intelligently adapted to its specific Missouri setting. Its builders used Missouri cedar, a hardy native species strongly resistant to rotting; it seems to have worked. But they also incorporated a steeply pitched, hipped roof from French Canada to deal with occasionally heavy snow, along with breezy wraparound porches called galeries adapted from the French West Indies to capture as many cross-currents of air in the steamy Mississippi River valley as possible. How many buildings being constructed these days will attract visitors two hundred years from now? As Bonnie, who is also director of the Historic Preservation Field School at Southeast Missouri State University, observes, “It’s one thing to read about vertical log construction; it’s another to stand in the cellar of the Amoureaux House and touch the eighteenth-century timbers in contact with the ground in their original location.” We hear a lot these days about “green architecture,” but a building that has endured for 215 years surely has something to say to us.

À la Recherché du Temps Perdu “When to the sessions of sweet, silent thought,” Shakespeare wrote, “I summon up remembrance of things past …” Why should we preserve the memory of our long-lost French colonial traditions for Missouri life? Historians sometimes employ counter-factual history, or alternative endings, to better understand the network of relationships in a particular period. Here we can participate in “sweet, silent thought” about how Missouri might have developed differently, perhaps revealing some cultural heirloom seeds awaiting transplantation to the right conditions. For example, I often think of Sacagawea’s son Jean-Baptiste Charbonneau, unwelcome in two worlds, and how he might instead have helped bridge American Indian and American cultures. From top: After the flood of 1783, the Bolduc House was disassembled at its original location on Le Grande Champ near the river and rebuilt in its present location on Main Street. Overlooking Le Grande Champ, the Bequette-Ribault House is one of three poteaux en terre homes in Ste. Genevieve. There are only five in the United States.

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MISSOURI JOURNAL

What if we re-imagined cultural diversity? How we subdivide land? How we build our dwellings? These issues remain very much alive. Jim Baker, site administrator for the Missouri Department of Natural Resources Felix Vallé House State Historic Site, also mentions that the site has become increasingly a focal point for the study of French colonial society, creating a unique kind of knowledge industry with wonderful possibilities for cultural heritage tourism. “The past is never really finished,” William Faulkner wrote. “It’s never even really past.” Perhaps it’s time for a cultural exchange program with ourselves, to clarify who we became and think about what we have left behind that we might yet go back and reclaim.

COURTESY OF MISSOURI DIVISION OF TOURISM; BILL NAEGER

From top: Musicians perform during a centuries-old New Year’s tradition in song, La Guiannee. During the Jour de Fête, kids can try on historic costumes.

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AD 127

3/4/08 11:51:39 AM

OLD BRICK HOUSE Daily luncheon buffet Dining Steaks & seafood Corner Third & Market

573-883-2724

The Stained Glass Shop Custom-designed leaded windows, sun catchers, supplies, and repairs. -ERCHANT 3TREET s 3TE 'ENEVIEVE -/

s STAINEDGLASS SHOP SBCGLOBAL NET

Â&#x153;V>Ă&#x152;i`Ă&#x160;Â&#x2DC;i>Ă&#x20AC;Ă&#x160;Â&#x201C;>Â&#x2DC;Ă&#x17E;Ă&#x160;>Ă&#x20AC;i>Ă&#x160;>Ă&#x152;Ă&#x152;Ă&#x20AC;>VĂ&#x152;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x153;Â&#x2DC;Ă&#x192;Ă&#x160; >Â&#x2DC;`Ă&#x160;Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;iĂ&#x160; Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x192;Ă&#x152;Â&#x153;Ă&#x20AC;Â&#x2C6;VĂ&#x160; Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;}Ă&#x160; Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x192;Ă&#x152;Ă&#x20AC;Â&#x2C6;VĂ&#x152;Â°

Ă&#x201C;ÂŁÂ&#x2122;xnĂ&#x160; Â&#x2C6;}Â&#x2026;Ă&#x153;>Ă&#x17E;Ă&#x160;Ă&#x17D;Ă&#x201C;Ă&#x160;UĂ&#x160;xĂ&#x2021;Ă&#x17D;Â&#x2021;nnĂ&#x17D;Â&#x2021;nnn{ /Â&#x153;Â?Â?Ă&#x160; Ă&#x20AC;iiĂ&#x160;vÂ&#x153;Ă&#x20AC;Ă&#x160;Ă&#x20AC;iĂ&#x192;iĂ&#x20AC;Ă&#x203A;>Ă&#x152;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x153;Â&#x2DC;Ă&#x192;Ă&#x160;nnnÂ&#x2021;Ă&#x2021;Ă&#x2021;ÂŁÂ&#x2021;Ă&#x2021;ÂŁĂ&#x2021;ÂŁ

Hotel Ste. Genevieve

Diamonds s Watches Jewelry s Gifts

2EMOUNTING s !PPRAISALS s %NGRAVING 0RECIOUS -OMENTS s *EWELRY 2EPAIR

573-883-2372

-ERCHANT s 3TE 'ENEVIEVE /PEN -ON 3AT AM PM

The Anvil Saloon

Microtel Inn & Suites UĂ&#x160;{Ă&#x201C;Ă&#x160;`Â&#x153;Ă&#x2022;LÂ?iĂ&#x160; Ă&#x20AC;Â&#x153;Â&#x153;Â&#x201C;Ă&#x192;Ă&#x160;Ă&#x153;Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;Ă&#x160; ÂľĂ&#x2022;iiÂ&#x2DC;Â&#x2021;Ă&#x192;Â&#x2C6;Ă˘i`Ă&#x160; Li`Ă&#x192; UĂ&#x160;Ă&#x2C6;Ă&#x160;-Ă&#x2022;Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x152;iĂ&#x192; UĂ&#x160;*Â&#x2026;Â&#x153;Â&#x2DC;iĂ&#x192;Ă&#x160;Ă&#x153;Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;Ă&#x160; Â&#x201C;Â&#x153;`iÂ&#x201C;Ă&#x160;Â?>VÂ&#x17D; UĂ&#x160; Â&#x153;Â&#x201C;ÂŤÂ?Â&#x2C6;Â&#x201C;iÂ&#x2DC;Ă&#x152;>Ă&#x20AC;Ă&#x17E;Ă&#x160; Â&#x201C;Â&#x153;Ă&#x20AC;Â&#x2DC;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;}Ă&#x160;VÂ&#x153;vvii

STEIGER JEWELERS INC

&ULL 3ERVICE 2ESTAURANT "AR

a place to linger

199 North Main, Ste. Genevieve 573.883.5250 Belle Haven, the Spa at Chaumette ~ a special place where indulgence and well-being come together!

24345 State Route WW www.BelleHavenSpa.com 573-747-1900

Somewhere Inn Time

Open Daily 11 AM-8 PM Weekends 11 AM-9 PM Sunday 11 AM-8 PM Third Street On the Square In Historic Ste. Genevieve, MO s -ADELINE *ETT /WNER

Rosemary & Thyme Cooking School Offering a variety of specialized classes. Maximum of 8 seatings by reservation only. Next to the Show Me Shop. 3OUTH -AIN 3TREET s yvonnelemire@sbcglobal.net

Ă&#x160;-/, /Ă&#x160;

Bed & Breakfast -iÂ?iVĂ&#x152;i`Ă&#x160; iĂ&#x192;Ă&#x152;Ă&#x160; E Ă&#x160;Ă&#x201C;Ă¤Ă¤Ă&#x2021; LĂ&#x17E;Ă&#x160;,i>`iĂ&#x20AC;Ă&#x192;Ă&#x160;Â&#x153;vĂ&#x160; INSIDERxĂ&#x2021;Ă&#x17D; life&style magazine

Set in the dĂŠcor of yesterday is one of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest restaurants.

Award-winning two-story colonial home possesses the charm and beauty of the 1920s along with the comfort of the present.

Steaks & seafood since 1901

*EFFERSON s www.somewhereinntime.info

Corner Main & Merchant â&#x20AC;˘ 573-883-3562

Â&#x153;V>Ă&#x152;i`Ă&#x160;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;Ă&#x160; Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x192;Ă&#x152;Â&#x153;Ă&#x20AC;Â&#x2C6;V -Ă&#x152;iÂ°Ă&#x160; iÂ&#x2DC;iĂ&#x203A;Â&#x2C6;iĂ&#x203A;i

ÂŁÂ°nĂ¤Ă¤Â°Â&#x2122;ÂŁnÂ°Â&#x2122;ÂŁÂ&#x2122;Â&#x2122;

Ă&#x160;Ă&#x153;Ă&#x153;Ă&#x153;Â°Â&#x201C;>Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;Ă&#x192;Ă&#x152;Ă&#x20AC;iiĂ&#x152;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;Â&#x2DC;LLÂ°VÂ&#x153;Â&#x201C;

[128] MissouriLife

AD STE. GENEVIEVE 128

Bed & Breakfast

3/6/08 1:56:21 PM

Bolduc House Museum Shop Ă&#x160;1Â&#x2DC;Â&#x2C6;ÂľĂ&#x2022;iĂ&#x160;-Â&#x2026;Â&#x153;ÂŤĂ&#x160;Ă&#x153;Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;Ă&#x160; >Ă&#x160; Ă&#x20AC;iÂ&#x2DC;VÂ&#x2026;Ă&#x160; Â?>Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x20AC; vi>Ă&#x152;Ă&#x2022;Ă&#x20AC;iĂ&#x192;Ă&#x160; iÂ&#x2DC;Ă&#x20AC;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x153;Ă&#x152;Ă&#x160; +Ă&#x2022;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x201C;ÂŤiĂ&#x20AC;Ă&#x160;v>Â&#x2C6;iÂ&#x2DC;Vi]Ă&#x160; Ă&#x192;>Â&#x2DC;Ă&#x152;Â&#x153;Â&#x2DC;Ă&#x192;]Ă&#x160;Ă&#x192;Â&#x153;>ÂŤĂ&#x192;]Ă&#x160; LÂ&#x153;Â&#x153;Â&#x17D;Ă&#x192;]Ă&#x160;Â&#x2026;iĂ&#x20AC;LĂ&#x192;]Ă&#x160;}>Ă&#x20AC;`iÂ&#x2DC;Ă&#x160; >VViĂ&#x192;Ă&#x192;Â&#x153;Ă&#x20AC;Â&#x2C6;iĂ&#x192;]Ă&#x160;>Â&#x2DC;`Ă&#x160; Â&#x153;Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;iĂ&#x20AC;Ă&#x160;Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;}Ă&#x192;Ă&#x160; Ă&#x20AC;iÂ&#x2DC;VÂ&#x2026;

ÂŁĂ&#x201C;xĂ&#x160;-Â°Ă&#x160; >Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;Ă&#x160;UĂ&#x160;-Ă&#x152;iÂ°Ă&#x160; iÂ&#x2DC;iĂ&#x203A;Â&#x2C6;iĂ&#x203A;i]Ă&#x160; "Ă&#x160;Ă&#x2C6;Ă&#x17D;Ă&#x2C6;Ă&#x2021;Ă¤Ă&#x160;UĂ&#x160;xĂ&#x2021;Ă&#x17D;Â&#x2021;nnĂ&#x17D;Â&#x2021;Ă&#x17D;ÂŁĂ¤x

Taste our farmstead artisan goat cheese at: Soulard Market in St. Louis, March 1, 2008-the end of December on Saturdays 6:30 a.m.-1 p.m. And at the Clayton Farmers Market Saturdays, May-October 8:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m.

573-483-9021 baetjefarms@earthlink.net

8932 Jackson School Rd. â&#x20AC;˘ Bloomsdale, MO 63627

First Settlement Country Store Quality antiques featuring primitives, glassware, jewelry, toys, and much more. 233 Merchant Street

573-883-8002

Pizza â&#x20AC;˘ Pastas â&#x20AC;˘ Samiches

Ste Genevieve

MODOC Ferry 800-373-7007

Family Dining, Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Menu, Carry Out Available

573-883-5749 261 Merchant Street Ste. Genevieve, MO

March â&#x20AC;&#x201C; November Monday â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Saturday 6 a.m. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6 p.m. Sunday 9 a.m. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6 p.m.

SWEET THINGS of Sainte Genevieve, LLC

Your Olâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Time Candy and Gift Store! 'JOF $IPDPMBUFT t %JFUFUJD $BOEJFT /PTUBMHJD $BOEZ t (JGU *UFNT www.stegensweethings.com .BSLFU 4U t

InKleined To Stamp 123 Merchant Street, Suite A 573-883-7919

www.inkleinedtostamp.com e-mail: pam@inkleinedtostamp.com We are more than â&#x20AC;&#x153;just a stamp storeâ&#x20AC;?!

WoodWick Candles & Reed Diffusers, Jim Shoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Heartwood Creek, custom stone plaques & crosses, monogram coasters, dip chillers, home dĂŠcor, and other gift items; Ste. Genevieve souvenir magnets, mugs, and t-shirts; 1000s of art rubber stamps & supplies.

NATIONAL AWARD WINNING STORE

The

3outhern (otel

â&#x20AC;&#x153;A few of our favorite thingsâ&#x20AC;?

Lunch Cafe Homemade desserts Truly unique gifts â&#x20AC;˘ Antiques

198 North Main

573-883-3078

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Best of Missouriâ&#x20AC;? Wines, cheeses, sausages, gifts, gift baskets, and gourmet foods.

573-883-3096 10 South Main â&#x20AC;˘ Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670

Le Pavillon Old World Elegance

Banquets, receptions, events, weddings (brideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boudoir and groomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s room) Tea Garden and Cocktail Cove Adjacent to Catholic Church on the Historic Town Square.

Here the past is carefully blended with modern comforts to make your stay a very special experience.

233 Merchant Street

A Historic B & B 3 RD 3T s www.southernhotelbb.com

314-497-5432

donnacharron@sbcglobal.net [129] April 2008

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Discovering What’s Possible With Calcium

ississippi Lime Company has been a provider of highquality calcium products to the nation’s industries for 100 years. We would like to introduce you to our Ste. Genevieve operation, our products, and their applications. Mississippi Lime Company has a 100-year history producing what is considered to be one of the world’s oldest, man-made chemicals: quicklime. Archaeological evidence has been found supporting man’s discovery of lime nearly 700,000 years ago when limestone was used to ring the fire pits of prehistoric man. Lime was used by ancient civilizations as a source for mortar, plaster, bleaching, and leather finishing. The use of limestone and lime continued throughout the Middle Ages and colonial periods for roadbeds and construction, and became a part of improved farming methods as a soil conditioner. The industrial age saw improvements in lime manufacturing methods such as a move to steel-shelled kilns and improved mechanical equipment. Today, our limestone mining operation and surface plants are among the most sophisticated in the world. Harry B. Mathews, Jr. founded the Mississippi Sand Company in Alton, Illinois, in 1907. In the 1920’s, the company purchased its first property for lime production in Ste. Genevieve County, Missouri. The following decades saw expansions, acquisitions, investment, and overall growth, making Mississippi Lime Company’s Ste. Genevieve operation the largest lime producer at one single location in the nation.

AD STE GEN 2 130

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PROMOTION

Operations in the Ste. Genevieve location can be divided into four basic product groups: • Limestone—is mined, crushed and screened to several sizes for a variety of end uses, primarily quicklime • Quicklime—a result of high-temperature heating of limestone to convert calcium carbonate to the chemical calcium oxide (calcination) • Calcium hydroxide— commonly called hydrated lime, is the controlled addition of water to quicklime (hydration) • Precipitated calcium carbonate (PCC) is manufactured by bubbling carbon dioxide through a wet slurry (carbonation). Our mining process takes place roughly 200 feet below the surface at the mine’s working faces. Mining begins with drilling the working faces and then loading these holes with explosives. The explosives are ignited in a timed detonation to produce a stone that is a variety of sizes, the largest being approximately a 3’ x 3’ cube. The mined limestone is gathered by large front end loaders, then transported via huge haul trucks to our crushing system where the stone is reduced in size to a top size of 2 1/2 inch diameter. After crushing, the stone is screened and stored according to its use. The majority of this stone is used in the production of quicklime. Some of the stone, however, is milled and pulverized to the consistency of sugar or flour. These finely milled limestone products are used in many applications: • glass manufacturing • asphalt filler in roadways • roofing shingles • animal feed as a source of calcium • production of plastics. At our Ste. Genevieve location calcining, heating the limestone to convert it into quicklime, is the heart of the operation. Calcination is performed in large

PROMOTION

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kilns. The Ste. Genevieve operation utilizes two types of kilns – rotary kilns and vertical kilns. A rotary kiln is a rotating, long steel tube slightly inclined from horizontal and lined with high-temperature refractory and bricks to protect the steel from the heat. Some of our rotary kilns are the length of a football ﬁeld, and have diameters ranging eleven feet and greater. Limestone is fed into one end of the rotary kiln, and as the kiln rotates the stone slowly tumbles down toward the discharge end. At the discharge end of the tube, we burn fuel to heat the stone and cause the chemical conversion. The stone is heated to temperatures greater than 2000 degrees Fahrenheit, converting the limestone into quicklime. The second kiln type is a vertical shaft kiln. Vertical kiln heights range from 75 feet to 150 feet, roughly the height of a 15-story building. Limestone enters the top of the kiln shaft and builds a bed of stone. As it travels through the kiln the stone is heated to temperatures greater than 2000 degrees Fahrenheit, converting the limestone into quicklime. The stone is heated using natural gas as the primary fuel source. The bed of material is slowly drawn out of the bottom of the kiln using gravity. As lime is removed from the bottom of the kiln, fresh limestone is added at the top, making this a continuous process. After quicklime is discharged from either kiln type, it is cooled and sorted by size for such applications as: • steel making to remove impurities • drinking water treatment for softening • industrial emission scrubbing for cleaning boiler stack gases • converting municipal sewage waste to organic fertilizer • soil stabilization to improve roads and airport runways.

AD STE GEN 2 132

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PROMOTION

Lime is often the calcium source in calcium based chemicals, such as: • calcium phosphate (a baking agent) • calcium sulphonates and phenates (used in the production of motor oils). Quicklime can also be milled into a fine powder. This product is called pulverized quicklime or PQL. PQL is used in fiberglass manufacturing, animal feed blocks as a source of calcium, for moisture removal in the production of plastic sheeting and other materials, in rubber products as a drying agent. To produce hydrate, quicklime is mixed with water in specialized equipment producing a fine powder. Finished hydrated lime is used in such applications as: • food additives such as taco shells, orange juice, and gelatins • leather tanning to help release animal hair from the hide • roadway asphalt filler, soil stabilization to improve and harden road beds • sewage treatment to lower acid levels and help control odors • drinking water treatment for softening, bacteria control and purification • calcium hypochlorite - a bleach used in swimming pools and paper • oil and grease additives as detergents. In the product flow, precipitated calcium carbonate, or PCC, is our next product group. Lime is mixed with water to produce a milk-of-lime slurry. Carbon dioxide gas, which has been captured from the quicklime process, is bubbled through the milk-of-lime slurry. The reaction between the gas and the slurry produces a low-solids, high-quality, precipitated calcium carbonate. The PCC slurry is further processed and sold as a wet slurry/paste or dry powder. PCC is widely used as a pigment in paint and paper for increased whiteness, a filler in paper and paper coatings to improve texture, a filler in rubber products such as tires and air bags, in plastics both molded and extruded, and as a calcium source in foods. The calcium products of Mississippi Lime Company are considered to be among the highest quality in the world. Mississippi Lime products are well-recognized, and are often specified over other products because of our ability to deliver this consistently high quality. Additionally, our products have received certification from several national chemical and food quality organizations. These high-quality products also require equal methods of packaging and delivery to our customers. Depending upon product type, our products are available in bag, semi-bulk, dry bulk, or liquid bulk. Products are transported by way of truck, rail, or river barge. Mississippi Lime Company also has a state-of-the-art laboratory, a welltrained and responsive technical support staff, and a research group continually exploring new production methods and uses for our products. As the largest employer in Ste. Genevieve, Mississippi Lime Company is firmly committed to being an outstanding neighbor and solid partner in the community. We provide support in many ways, but it’s really our people who make it possible for us to be such a strong part of the history and culture of Ste. Genevieve. Our tradition of support to the community is as old as the company itself. Mississippi Lime has been a major contributor to the authentic restoration of historic buildings in Ste. Genevieve. We also support and contribute to our local schools and to various civic and youth groups in the community. We are also aware of our environmental presence in the community and have made large investments in technology and equipment to reduce any negative environmental impact. Our products, customers, employees, and the community have helped in making Mississippi Lime the largest single site lime producer in North America, and Mississippi Lime Company as a whole, one of the largest lime companies in the world. Today at Mississippi Lime we continue to improve our products, our customer relationships, and our community involvement…..all while striving to “Discover what’s possible with calcium.”

AD STE GEN 2 133

3/6/08 3:06:03 PM

Winery Bed & Breakfast Live Entertainment 245 Merchant Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670

800-398-1298 www.saintegenevievewinery.com

[134] MissouriLife

AD 134

3/4/08 1:59:09 PM

T RIVIA Questions a

MISSOURI’S LEADING LADIES

nd Answers

By Lauren Foreman

What was the name of the first woman

elected United States senator from

part of her life in St. Louis and caused

Missouri in November 2006?

a scandal with her short story, The

Adorned with titles such as “Creole

Awakening.

Goddess,” which luminary entertainer

born in St. Louis adopted twelve multiracial orphans and called them her This Shoshone woman helped guide the Corps of Discovery from 1803-1806.

record and was raised in Fulton? 8.

Which Hannibal-born socialite, activist, and philanthropist manned lifeboat number six after the Titanic sank?

Which Missouri Ozarks resident created the cartoon character Kewpie?

“Rainbow Tribe?” 3.

This author was born and lived a large

Who was the first African-American

Which St. Louis-born poet wrote and recited original work at the 1993 Presidential Inauguration?

woman to serve in the Missouri Senate?

10. Who founded the first public kinder-

Nicknamed the “Fulton Flash,” which

garten in St. Louis, which she ran for

1936 Olympic champion set a world

eleven years without pay?

Answers: 1. Claire McCaskill, 2. Josephine Baker, 3. Sacagawea, 4. Kate Chopin, 5. Rose O’Neill, 6. Gwen B. Giles, 7. Helen Stephens, 8. Molly Brown, 9. Maya Angelou, 10. Susan Elizabeth Blow [135] April 2008

TRIVIA 135

3/5/08 8:59:37 PM

OrKTopSics I BtioO MgioInSalSAOuthUorR s, Loca ns, o

A CHILD’S IMAGINATION By Rebecca French Smith

Unicorn Races

prepared a feast of everything that little ones

Schank, along with University of Missouri

By Stephen J. Brooks, Purple Sky Publishing,

love—cookies, cakes, and ice cream sun-

at Kansas City art instructor and illustrator

$16.95, 32 pages, hardcover

daes—to celebrate the big race. But before

Denise Seah, paints a picture of hope and

the guests can enjoy the meal, the unicorns

family in Schank’s first book, Tera’s Dawn.

A sharp contrast to Stephen J. Brooks pro-

must race. The unicorns, in a rainbow of

Wild horses run the meadows in which

fessional career of fifteen years as a federal

colors, line up and set off on an aerial race

Tera, a wild mare, grew up. They are her

agent dealing with terrorism, his writing

to the moon, to the sea, and back.

family. Her mother was rounded up by

creates a world where children feel safe.

Who wins the race? Will Abigail make it

ranchers, who often seek the herd for use

In this Platte County author’s fifth title,

back to her bed before her parents discover

as workhorses, when she was young. Now

he spins a yarn of unicorns, fairies, elves,

she’s gone? These are questions that will

the ranchers have returned.

and princess Abigail—a perfect, bedtime

keep your little ones on the edge of their bed

Instead of following the advice of wiser

story—illustrated with whimsical, colorful

and just might have them peeking out their

and older horses and staying with the herd,

images straight from a child’s imagination.

windows to catch a glimpse of the race.

Tera decides to hide beneath a willow tree.

After being tucked in by her parents, Abigail waits for them to disappear through

As she feels the lasso slip around her neck,

the door, eyes shut, feigning sleep. Once

Tera’s Dawn

she’s sure they’re gone she rises, calls her

By Susan K. Schank, Purple Sky Publishing,

unicorn, dons a tiara, and sets off on a

$16.95, 32 pages, hardcover

magical night.

her fear mounts as she realizes that she is losing her freedom, until she gets an unexpected and welcome surprise. In the end, Schank shows the reader how determination and a problem-solving

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and adversity, Parkville author Susan K.

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TINA WHEELER

Lord William, her unicorn, ferries her to an

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kinds of places, from way up high on the Country Club Plaza clock tower at Kansas City to way down low on wine cellar floors. The size of her works varies widely, too. A Payne creation might stretch across an entire building façade or measure only a few inches square, and the subject might be anything from a city history to a blue heron in progressive stages of flight. The one constant in her artwork is her medium. Carolyn paints all of her works on ceramic tile. “My background is drawing and painting,” Carolyn says, as she explains why she uses manufactured tiles instead of making her own. “I’m using tile as my canvas.” Even using manufactured tile, Carolyn spends several hours on small pieces and several days or weeks on large projects. For her commissioned works, she begins by talking with her clients about their vision for the artwork. She then makes some sketches, and after more communication, she draws a detailed illustration on tracing paper and transfers the drawing to the tiles. She numbers all the tiles on the back and marks them with a directional arrow to make fitting them together later easier. Once Carolyn has drawn on the tiles, she uses

a centuries-old technique called cuerda seca to bring them to life. She applies wax lines over the drawn lines and then fills in the spaces with colored glazes using brushes and squirt bottles with fine tips. The wax lines create an etched look and keep the glazes from running together, so the colors and images remain distinct. Next Carolyn takes the tiles to her kilns. She has five, plus one test kiln, and the larger ones hold up to 150 tiles. The firing process changes the brilliancy and intensity of the glazes, and Carolyn often fires her tiles several times to achieve a desired look. She fires most of her tiles around two thousand degrees Fahrenheit. They heat for twelve hours and then cool for twelve hours in the kiln. “So you have to wait twenty-four hours before you know what you have, and then you may have to start all over again,” Carolyn says. Before founding Payne Creations Tile, Carolyn earned her master’s degree of art from the University of Kansas and then taught elementary art for eight years at Kansas City. She started her business in 1984. “Payne Creations had humble beginnings,” she writes in her biography on her web site. “I started in a two-bedroom, second-floor apart-

ment. I used tile to depict historical scenes of Kansas City. I designed and glazed the tiles, then ran a few blocks to the basement of a friend’s house where I had my first kilns. After making trips back and forth to the kilns, carrying tiles up and down two flights of stairs, I soon wished I had picked a lighter media. I had nothing but a vision, but at the least, I needed work space. So I applied for a business loan from my hometown bank with the help of my parents’ signature for collateral. Eventually, I bought a house that was suitable, and since then I have added 1,500 square feet. It has become the permanent art studio for Payne Creations.” Carolyn expects to work with ceramic tile for the rest of her life, and she expects her work to last several lifetimes. “That’s what I love about the medium because it’s one of the most permanent art forms known to mankind,” she says. “With proper installation, tile will last forever.” Visit www.paynecreations.com for more information. From left: Life Eternal, a commercial project, adorns the Ashland University Memorial Chapel in Ohio. Carolyn Payne created The Blue Heron, one of four panels, for the exterior of a Lake of the Ozarks home. She also creates patio murals, such as Eagles located in Scottsdale, Arizona.

COURTESY OF CAROLYN PAYNE

CAROLYN PAYNE’S ART shows up in all

By Anita Neal Harrison

[138] MissouriLife

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MISSOURI ARTIST

AN ARTIST’S MUSEE

ST. LOUIS ARTIST James Cleland is drawn to his art much like a moth is drawn to a flame. His works become candles lit with his infatuation of life and anatomical precision of design. His pieces reflect nature and the whimsicality that fill even the briefest of scenes in nature with color. “There’s nothing totally original. My inspiration comes from nature,” James says. The unique element is that “I’m the only one doing them.” Fascinated by their complexity of design, James has a passion for insects. He creates them by studying the actual insects or researching them in science publications, doing proportioned diagrams, then transferring them to metal. “It’s visual, but I think in three dimensions. I think in color,” James says. This visual aspect of his design began in rocks when Cleland discovered that his degree in biology was becoming less applicable to his ambitions. James opened the Carbondale Rock Shop, which relocated and became the Southern Illinois Gem Company. And finally embrac-

ing the larger St. Louis market, James and his wife, Ginger, opened Designs in Gold at St. Louis, where he uses his skills to create traditional jewelry using Art Deco and Japanese mon (symbols or crests). “The raven’s mon and the grasshopper’s mon both tell stories,” he says. Committed to the stories of his bugs and Diving Crane pieces, James views time as a necessary sacrifice. He often finds himself working on a piece all night, collapsing onto a blanket he sets aside for himself, then continuing his work when he wakes. This dedication to and passion for art has been generations in the making, given his Scottish and Irish Celtic ancestry. “The Celts were renowned craftsmen,” James says. They acquired a skill that withstood the test of time, which became an ancestral gift passed from father to son. Thus, James’s story becomes one that pays tribute to this gift. James’s three sons, Albert, Andrew, and Zachary, complete their predecessors’ artistic circle. “All of my boys display a certain ease of

By Lauren Foreman

design.” And, his sons prove to be essential characters in his story, as their presence creeps into descriptions of James’s life’s work, providing inspiration. His wife and business partner, Ginger, is another inspiration, as she completes his life story and his sentences. “I admire his patience, wit, and sense of humor,” she says. His character mirrors his skill as an artist, and as an artist he is a visionary. He creates art from scraps of material and follows the personal story of his subject. “Watching him start with a sheet of gold and/or sterling to create an amazing piece of art jewelry that tells a story, spins, or has a hidden secret is so exciting to me,” Ginger says. “Then to be able to sell it to people that love it as much as we do is just an added bonus.” Call 314-567-3530 or visit www.jcleland. com for more information on this Best of Missouri Hands artist. From left: Birds, insects, and nature have captured the eye of jeweler James Cleland. His goal with each piece is to design so precisely that birds would be drawn to his art in hopes of a bite to eat.

COURTESY OF JAMES CLELAND

I N S E C T S C A P T U R E A S T. L O U I S J E W E L E R ’ S F A N C Y |

[142] MissouriLife

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MISSOURI ARTIST

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ings and sculpturesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;from the American Academy of Equine Art (AAEA) in Kentucky will make the Columbia Art League at Columbia their first stop on a national tour. The show will mark the first-ever equine art show in mid-Missouri. The show is also unique in that it will be the first time that the AAEA has offered workshops at an exhibit venue, says AAEA Vice President Sheila Barnes. Headquartered in the Kentucky Horse Park at Lexington, the AAEA is a nonprofit organization of painters and sculptors dedicated to the promotion of excellence in the genre of equine art. Pennsylvania-based, English equine sculptor Kathleen Friedenberg and Booth Malone, the official artist for the 2006 Breederâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cup at Churchill Downs, will teach workshops during the Columbia show. The Horse in Fine Art show runs April 1 through May 16 at the Columbia Art League gallery located at 111 S. Ninth Street at Columbia. Call 573-443-8838 or visit www.aaea.net or www.cal.missouri.org for more information. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Marilyn L. Cummins

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ARTIST 143

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Missouri Artist

The Sheer Joy Of Artistic Expression

Pulling from the greens, golds, and blues of the Caribbean blossoms, Lake of the Ozarks artist Nancee Byington splatters oil and watercolor ink, feeling and depth onto her canvas. She credits her creation to the “sheer joy of color, music, and artistic expression.” Art begins with “memories of the many places I’ve been in an effort to yield something unique and greater,” Nancee says. “In my artwork, it is mostly looking for things that will touch people’s hearts as opposed to a picture,” she says. “It will create their own beauty in their own lives.” Tracing her work to its modest beginnings, Nancee reveals the journey that resulted in her becoming president of her own corporation, Creative Dimensions Inc. and owner of Elegant Flair, her gallery at Lake of the Ozarks. In the beginning, this Best of Missouri Hands artist admits, “I painted only for my family and for our own home, so I wouldn’t sell my art.” She already had a career at Monsanto, a multifaceted company. But while there, her creative side would work its way into her work. It was after she completed two of the big-

gest projects of her career at Monsanto, one being the first-ever international marketing meeting and the other the 1996 summer Olympics program in Atlanta, that she made

By Lauren Foreman

a move. She had been planning her leave of Monsanto for two years and realized after leaving Monsanto that all the significant accomplishments, projects, and contributions were tied in some way to intentional “works of art.” Finally, she embraced the career that allowed her creative tendencies to be realized artwork, interior design, and business consulting. Nancee now uniquely approaches art from the perspective of the viewer, and befittingly, she is able to capture their sentiments. After selling thirteen commissioned paintings to a resort at Lake of the Ozarks, she unmasks her secret—color. There was something inspired in the colors she chose, and the colors pulled that same inspiration out of the buyer. “I believe most artists who typically have a variety of art create from the heart as opposed to a particular model,” Nancee says. “I think it’s totally looking beyond what you normally see.” Call 573-365-1605 or visit www.dimensionscreative.com for more information. From left: Shipwrecked by Nancee Byington uses color to make a connection between the art and the buyer, as does Building a Great Nest.

courtesy of nancee byington

L a k e o f t h e O z a r k s pa i n t e r m a k e s t h e c o n n e c t i o n |

[144] MissouriLife

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A Perfect Pair $12.99 The Missouri Mug features Jefferson City photographer Jim Rathert’s image of two of the most beloved symbols of the Show-Me State—a flowering dogwood and a brilliant male eastern bluebird. This photoquality mug is handmade using a remarkable new process and is dishwasher and microwave safe. The fourteen-ounce mug features a sweetheart handle and dark green or black interior. 10.99 Jim Rathert’s Missouri Coaster is handmade of tumbled Botticino marble quarried in Italy to give each coaster a unique look. It features the photo found on its matching piece, the Missouri Mug. The image is infused into the surface so it will not peel or flake. The coaster measures approximately 4"x4"x3/8" and weighs more than eight ounces.

Float Away $18.95 The Complete Paddler is a combination of atlas and travel guide for ing guide to paddling the Missouri River is invaluable to paddlers of all skill levels and offers excellent information on every stretch of the river, including river hazards, campgrounds, potable water, and attractions, as well as historic sites. David L. Miller provides vital information for anyone seeking to float even the shortest stretch of the Missouri’s storied waters. Published by Farcountry Press, 380 pages, paperback. Visit MissouriLife.com or call 800-492-2593, ext. 103 to buy.

COURTESY OF MARKETPLACE VENDORS

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H T L A E H E M - s Making a Difference SHMOissoW urian

THE GIFT OF LIFE

ABOUT 1,200 Missourians are hoping for a second chance at life. That’s how many men, women, and children are on the list to receive a lifesaving organ transplant. For some, that second chance will never come. To underscore the importance of choosing to become a donor and to bring awareness to the critical need for organ, tissue, marrow, and blood donation, April has been designated National Donate Life Month. For Stacy Pikey of New Madrid, every day is an opportunity to encourage others to consider organ donation. She has been actively educating people and dispelling myths about organ donation in a grass roots campaign since starting an organization called Sydney’s Santa in 2005. This charitable organization was created in honor of Stacy’s spunky seven-year-old daughter, Sydney Beth. Sydney Beth was involved in a fatal accident in 2003, but her parents agreed to donate their daughter’s organs. “We knew that is exactly what Sydney Beth would want to do. She was such a caring and giving person, and she would be so disappointed with us if we didn’t allow her to continue to give, to give to others as she did in life,” Stacy says. A match was found for Sydney’s lungs as well as her liver, providing a criticial opportunity for two people. Stacy credits that difficult decision to family conversations and their daughter’s positive outlook regarding donation. The family was confronted with the question a few months prior when Sydney’s grandmother passed away. She was a tissue donor, and the Pikeys discussed the concept with their children, “Sydney Beth thought that was the coolest thing that her grandma gave one of her eyes to a little boy,” Stacy says.

By Stefani Kronk

their loved one’s behalf. Currently, there are Keeping with Sydney’s spirit, the more than 2.3 million Missourians enrolled in goal of the organization is to the registry. bring hope to those in need If a person wishes to become a donor, it is by donating gifts throughout important that they discuss their wishes with the year and to encourage loved ones, friends, healthcare providers, and others to be an organ and religious advisors, says Virginia Beatty, a planner tissue donor. for the Missouri Organ Donor Program. With the momentum “Missouri’s registry is one of intent rather than Sydney’s Santa has been a statement of consent,” Virginia says. “Currently gaining, Stacy is zealousin Missouri, a donor’s family is given the option ly spreading her message to proceed with the donation.” Often, because a about organ donation. person’s intent to donate has not been discussed “People have this concept of with family members, people are faced with a what they think about organ donadifficult decision at a difficult time. tion, but there are so many myths and For Stacy and the Pikeys, their experiences misconceptions,” she says. “I educate people with tissue and organ donation have been overand let them know time is not on your side whelmingly positive despite the heartache that when you are faced with this decision. If I could is associated with their loss. “It helps me when stress one thing to any family, it’s to talk about I talk about Sydney Beth and share my tragedy the issue now. It’s a serious thing, but you don’t with someone else. Through God’s help and have the time to do it when you are faced with your faith in God and the gift of organ donathat decision. You don’t have hours, you don’t tion, you can turn tragedy into something posihave minutes. You have a very small window tive,” Stacy says. “You can say, ‘My loved one is a of opportunity to make the decision that could hero. They actually saved someone’s life.’ ” ultimately change someone’s life.” Visit www.dhss.mo.gov/OrganDonor for In 1996, Missouri state law created the Organ more information. Donor Registry to promote organ and tissue donation. The registry is a list of individuals who intend to be a potential donor. The Department of Health and Senior Services maintains the registry. Authorized personnel access the registry at the time of death to determine if the person is listed and wished to be a donor. This information is shared with From top: Sydney Pikey’s lungs were donated to Kyle Frankiewicz, who was suffering from cystic fibrosis. (From left) Breita Church from the next of kin, so they may make a final, but Mid-America Transplant Services, John Pikey, Stacy Pikey, Michelle Frankiewicz, John Frankiewicz, and in front, Drew Pikey and Kyle met informed, decision on at the Outback Steakhouse at St. Louis on Kyle’s thirteenth birthday.

COURTESY OF STACY PIKEY

O R G A N D O N AT I O N T U R N S T R A G E D Y I N T O T R I U M P H |

[148] MissouriLife

HEALTH 148

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[149] April 2008

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WHAT? ME WORRY? By Ron Marr

There is no warning from the Surgeon General, no posted speed limit, no plywood silhouettes à la Disneyland reading: “You must be this tall to ride this ride.” We arrive and depart in naked truth. During the interim, we can but do our best to live according to our hearts, to listen closely to the silent whispers of God. We can only flash a grin at the cards we are dealt. We strive and toil, laugh and cry, fail and succeed, suffer and heal, live and die. This is not an elusive truth. Really, somewhere inside, everyone knows it. Such being the case, I often wonder why the majority of our species seems perpetually harried, worried, stressed-out, and frenetic. Peace of mind is nothing more than understanding and accepting the reality of reality, not just rolling with the punches, but rolling with laughter at the inevitability of the punches. You know you’re going to take it on the chin. It’s taken me a lifetime to figure this out, but there is really no reason to worry about anything … ever. Worry never solved a single problem; it only adorns the problem with a grandiose mane. Worry breeds more worry, not to mention unattractive lines on the face (mine is a road map), a graying of hair (even my beard is white), and the perils of acid indigestion (please pass the Tagamet). I know whereof I speak, for I was once a world-class worrier. I’m not sure when I quit worrying. It just sort of happened. I have a very strong belief system, and I’ve discerned that most religions have certain common themes. You can find these themes within the Bible, in the Torah, in the Tao Teh Ching (Lao Tzu may be my favorite author), and myriad other tomes. These constants, sometimes sparse and sometimes eloquent pearls of wisdom, consistently repeat the same basic message. They tell us to live with kindness and grace. They tell us to realize that we are not in control. They tell us to try our best but not to feel discouragement if our best does not result in our most-desired outcome. They tell us to be happy with the results, no matter whether they be good or ill, for such seeming finalities are tiny brush strokes in the big picture. Mostly, they tell us to have faith. Faith sometimes moves mountains. At other times, faith judges wisely that we should go to the mountain. In many cases, perhaps most, faith decides that both we and the mountain are fine just where we are and should shut our yaps and quit pestering it with things we don’t truly want or need. But I can also tell you this about faith. When you truly need something, when you truly believe in it, when every molecule of your body, mind, and soul seeks a change or a miracle, faith will make it happen. But you can’t

just “sort of” want it, “sort of” need it, or “sort of” believe it. You have to be utterly awash in the necessity … no doubts. Even then the outcome may not be exactly that which you wish, but it will always be of great benefit, even if you don’t realize it at the time. About a month back I was watching the Gasconade River burst its banks, something of a concern since I live on those banks. It rose and rose, and I was certain my dock lines would snap, sending both beat-up dock and beat-up canoe hurtling toward parts unknown. The water was high enough and fast enough that trees were being undercut from the bank and plummeting into the turgid waters. It bugged me for a second, and then I realized there was not a solitary thing I could do about it. Why worry, I thought. This is beyond me. So I sat down on my porch bench, donned a jacket and gloves (it was colder than a spinster’s heart out there), and watched the show. During this respite from the normal hard work of my afternoon nap, a female cardinal managed to crawl through a hole in the screen and become trapped on my porch. She flew with pure terror, smashing into the wire mesh. Finally, she hunkered down and shivered with fear, no doubt awaiting impending doom. I gently reached down—feeling pity at the high-pitched bird squeals and ignoring the chomping little beak (I’m thankful for leather gloves)—picked her up, and walked to the door. I opened it with my foot, stretched out my arms, and loosened my grip. She flew fast and hard, never looking back. The cardinal need not have worried; it only led her to the verge of a massive avian coronary and did not aid in attaining her freedom. But being a bird she understandably couldn’t grasp such a thing. We humans, we worriers, we mere mortals who delude ourselves into thinking we can control every Ron Marr event and outcome, we should know better.

ILLUSTRATION BY BRAD RENO

IT’S NO GREAT SECRET. Life does not come with a disclaimer.

[150] MissouriLife

MUSINGS 150

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Know that feeling when the hot shower suddenly goes cold? He doesn’t.

He knows what you like in the shower: hot water. And with a propane water heater, you’ll have plenty. Propane heats water nearly twice as fast as electricity. And propane water heaters can cost a third less to operate. Best of all, you may qualify for a rebate of up to $300 when you install a new propane water heater. See your participating Missouri propane dealer for details.

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