MIX Magazine December 2010 by Mix Magazine

December D ecember cember ’10 ’10 10 / January January ’11 ’11 11 Portland P Portland’s ortland’s Magazine Magazine of of Food Food + D Drink rink

Crazy for oysters and Champagne Escape to Mexico Real country terrines Over-the-top ice-cream sundaes

DEC 2010 / JAN 2011

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editor’s note Here I am at another MIX wine tasting, at wine writer Katherine Cole’s table with our panel of experts and 25 new wines to taste. They sniff (often with just one nostril, I’ve noticed), swish and spit, and sometimes go “hmmm.” Then they say remarkable things like, “I think this has seen some lees,” and “I suspect it’s been acidified,” and “Tastes like they cut way back on the yield per acre.” What’s truly remarkable is that when they say those things, they don’t sound like pretentious dorks, the way it sort of sounds on paper. They just sound like people who are totally comfortable in their world, who know the intimacies and intricacies of wine, and who love to try to figure out what makes a nice wine taste nice.

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I am part of this panel, though I have no training in wine other than what comes incidentally with 20 years of being a food editor. I sniff, I swish, I spit … but just a little bit. Because then I swallow — I just can’t really capture all the flavors, aromas and textures of wine without actually drinking the stuff. (Which is why I always stop at Burgerville for a Tillamook cheeseburger as I head to Katherine Cole’s house for the tasting — I do NOT want to taste 25 wines on an empty stomach.) Even though my tasting comments usually run along the lines of “it smells like the shampoo I used in eighth grade,” the experts on the panel seem to think my opinions have some validity. And indeed they do. We taste 25 wines every

other month so we can find several wines that people like me — people who love wine, want to have fun with wine, value wine, but aren’t wine geeks — can discover and enjoy. And though many of the panelists probably have a few winegeek certification documents tucked somewhere in their offices, they also qualify as regular people, like me and like most MIX readers, who just love drinking a good glass of wine. So join us this issue as we discover Spanish cavas — our selections are definitely worth a sniff, a swish … and a swallow.

Martha Holmberg, editor mix.martha.holmberg@gmail.com PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA

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dec’10/jaN’11 40

at the bubbly sPectacular A Champagneloving pâtissière throws a party with her oyster-expert boyfriend. Delicious insanity ensues. >

54 raisiNg the suNdae bar

Holidays demand a stepped-up dessert concept, and a makeyour-own sundae meets the challenge.

63 Worth the eFFort

A chef teaches us how to make a classic — and meaty — first course for a holiday gathering.

PHOTOGRAPH By MIKE DAVIS

iN every issue 77 eat here If rain, rain won’t go away, then go yourself — to Sayulita, Mexico.

21 Walkabout The Industrial Eastside — good food, lots of trains.> 24 Friday Night diNNer Party A Swedish holiday meal, including glögg, gravlax and ABBA. 33 MixMaster Limoncello brightens holiday cocktails.

82 sceNe What to eat where. 69 selects Ho-hum, Champagne again? Try cava for a festive and affordable change.

75 good cheese A true Mexican favorite, made in Oregon.

ON THE COVER: Pastry chef Cheryl Wakerhauser lops off the top of a bottle of Champagne at her holdiay party (Page 40). PHOTO By MIKE DAVIS

92 oNe shot “Sabering” a bottle of Champagne.

Mix is 10 issues a year! it’s easy to subscribe online — go to MixPdx.coM and click on “subscribe.” you can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.

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contributors

Cheryl Wakerhauser and tobias hogan met in 2007 at the International Pinot Noir Celebration, appropriately over a sabered bottle of sparkling wine. Cheryl opened Pix Pâtisserie in 2002 after training in Southern France at the pâtisserie of MOF chef Philippe Urraca. Pix specializes in French desserts, chocolates and macarons and offers one of the largest grower Champagnes lists in the nation. Tobias is co-owner and jack of all trades at EaT: An Oyster Bar, serving Cajun Creole food with a fantastic raw bar. He has worked in wineries in both New Zealand and Oregon (12th & Maple in Dundee, Domaine Serene in Dayton), during which he developed quite the palate. Page 41.

thomas Boyd recalls: “When I got out of the Marine Corps and moved to Portland in 1988 I lived very close to the Central Eastside Industrial District. It was a bit rougher around the edges than today, but some things haven’t changed. I still like to eat lunch at Produce Row Cafe, and I still have a talent for timing my crossings seconds after the railroad gate closes. For me the Eastside Industrial area is my Portland. I walked or biked through it every day. I roamed the streets at night shooting photos under the bridge. I ate lunch and dinner, I explored the aisles of City Liquidators and I photographed homeless kids in the empty warehouses. Today, I don’t live so close, but the area still gives me a sense of home and nostalgia. I’m glad to see my old favorites have improved and new favorites have arrived. It’s still my Portland.” Page 21.

danielle Centoni is a food writer, editor and recipe developer who spends way too much time daydreaming about desserts — a trait that turned out to be useful when coming up with ice cream topping ideas for her story on Page 52. “I could have made that list three times as long,” she says, “but I wanted to give people a chance to do a little daydreaming of their own.”

laura Byrne russell considers herself an honorary Swede, at least during the month of December. “Swedish Christmas gives me that warm fuzzy holiday feeling I haven’t felt since I was a kid waiting for Santa. The amazing food, warmth of dear friends and copious amounts of aquavit make for a truly special celebration year after year.” Laura writes the Gluten Freedom column for The Oregonian and develops recipes for both local and national publications. Ten Speed Press will publish her new book, “The Gluten-Free Asian Kitchen,” in August 2011. Page 24.

The Ultimate Holiday Centerpiece: All Natural Pork In A Crown Roast

OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Grant Butler, Katherine Cole, John Foyston, ashley Gartland, teri GelBer, Jenn louis, tami Parr, sara Perry OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS/ ILLUSTRATORS douG BeGhtel, melanie Connor, miKe davis, ross William hamilton, Beth naKamura, motoya naKamura, Pete Perry, randy l. rasmussen

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THE INNOVATORS OF COMFORT™

VOLUME 4 / ISSUE 10

mixpdx.com MARTHA HOLMBERG / EDITOR

mix.martha.holmberg@gmail.com LINDA SHANKWEILER / CREATIVE DIRECTOR

lshankweiler@oregonian.com REED DARMON / DESIGNER

rdarmon@oregonian.com

LINDA FAUS / RECIPE TESTER WALLY BENSON, AMY REIFENRATH / COPY EDITORS ADVERTISING MARIO vAN DONGEN / DIRECTOR, SALES & MARkETING mariov@sales.oregonian.com, 503-221-8279 STEvE URBAN / MIX ADVERTISING MANAGER steveu@sales.oregonian.com, 503-221-8314

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starters to do

December Through Dec. 30

Go loco for cocoa and lights Pick any night this month for a perfect shot of Christmas cheer. Just fill a Thermos with your favorite hot chocolate, then head to one of the city’s best light displays. Two of the best: The Grotto’s Festival of Light, which has plenty of live choirs singing carols; and Winter Wonderland at Portland International Raceway, where you get to drive on the track past animatronic light displays. thegrotto.org portlandraceway.com

Dec. 1

Cupcake holidays The cupcake trend isn’t going away, and if there’s an argument for it sticking around for good, it’s Sur La Table’s hands-on Holiday Cupcake class. You’ll learn how to make gingerbread cupcakes with cream cheese frosting, and dark chocolate cupcakes with vanilla buttercream icing. Expect seasonal flair in all the garnishes. cookingclasses.surlatable.com

good gift ideas

the Champagne of beers — really Champagne needn’t have all the fun during the holiday season: Northwest brewers have some wonderfully dimensional, spritzy beers that can handily fill any flute — and extricate you from the Champagne rut. Cascade brewer Ron Gansberg brews and blends tart beers that challenge Champagne’s hegemony. They’re sold in wired-and-corked 750 ml bottles too, so no need to abridge the opening ceremony with a mere church key. The most specifically Champagne-like is The Vine, a Northwest-style sour ale that’s a blend of soured Triple, Blonde Quad and Golden ales. The blend is refermented with the fresh-pressed juice of white wine grapes, and then spends more than six months in French oak for aging and lactic fermentation. Other Cascade beers that deserve an invite to your holiday festivities include Sang Rouge and a couple of fruit beers that are neither sweet nor syrupy: fruit beers pared down to the essence — Cascade Apricot Ale and Cascade Kriek Ale, made with Northwest cherries. They retail

festive, not taCky

Dec. 1-5

Ales, ales, the gang’s all here One of Portland’s tastiest Christmas traditions is the Holiday Ale Festival, a five-day romp in Pioneer Courthouse Square, with heated tents surrounding the shimmering holiday tree. On tap are some of the region’s best seasonal brews, including Alameda Brewhouse’s Papa Noel, Golden Valley’s Tannen Bomb and Deschutes Brewery’s Jubelale. holidayale.com

Dec. 1-9

Light the menorah! Hanukkah begins, and each night, in addition to lighting a ceremonial candle, Jewish families and their friends can indulge in great games and latkes. One of the best places to find these potato pancakes is the Hawthorne district’s venerable Bread & Ink Cafe, which offers both traditional and out-there versions. breadandinkcafe.com

more to do

The holidays are all about cookies, and especially holiday cookies in a holiday tin, but most of the tins out there are très cliché, with too much red and green, scary Santas or horse-driven sleighs, which is why IKEA Annas Pepparkakors are so brilliant. Very stylish and Swedish (is that redundant?), this matte blue, seemingly hand-painted tin full of thin, crisp spice cookies makes a perfect hostess gift. Or eat all the cookies $4.99 for a 14-ounce yourself and use tin, IKEA, 10280 N.E. the tin for your own Cascades Parkway, crunchy creations. 503-282-4532

for under $20 per 750 ml bottle at the Cascade Brewing Barrel House, 935 S.E. Belmont St., and Belmont Station, 4500 S.E. Stark St. Portland’s Upright Brewing also makes limited-edition beers that would grace any holiday table, such as Flora Rustica, which is made with calendula flowers and spring yarrow. An oldstyle saison with a big floral nose, it’s pale, drinkable, dry and bitter — and seasonally available in 750 ml bottles. Plus, it’s a fine excuse to visit the Upright Tasting Room in the Left Bank Building, 240 N. Broadway, which is open Friday evenings and Saturday and Sunday afternoons. — John Foyston

The Holidays are the Cheeriest at Bethany Village! Come Join Us this Holiday Season QFC • Piccolo Mondo Toys • Cindy's Hallmark • Walgreen's • Bank of America • Chase Bank • Bethany's Table • Bliss Cupcake Shop • Chen's Dynasty Curry Leaf • Divine Yogurt • Juan Colorado • Subway • Sweet Lemon Vegetarian Bistro • TOMO Sushi & Teriyaki • Sunset Cycles Starbucks Bethany Family Dental • Hillside Dental at Bethany • Catrick Cleaners • Huntington Learning Center • Sweet Peas Kidzone • Edward Jones H&R Block • Bethany Athletic Club • All Star Dance Academy • U.S. West Coast Taekwondo • Santosha Yoga for Everybody • Allstate • Sherrie Weitzel Interiors Cedar Mill Community Library @ Bethany • Eyes at Bethany Village • OHSU Doernbecher Pediatrics • Therapeutic Associates • Blockbuster Video Bethany Family Pet Clinic • Great Clips • Island Tan • Nailzbizarre • Tres Bon Salon • Laurel Parc, A Senior Community • The UPS Store Holiday Open House at Laurel Parc on Wed. 12/15 from 4-7 pm. Santa Claus, music, and Christmas dinner style buffet. Come join us for the holiday cheer! THIS EVENT IS FREE TO ALL!

503 -69 0-2800 www.betha nyvilla ge.co m Directions: From Hwy. 26 go North on Bethany Blvd. about 1.5 miless

startersmore gift ideas geographiC gift

to do Cont. Dec. 11-27

Sweet tour, sweet dance Take a tour of downtown’s chocolate shops, hitting Moonstruck and Cacao, before heading to Keller Auditorium for Oregon Ballet Theatre’s delicious production of George Balanchine’s “The Nutcracker.” The second act is visual splendor for sweet tooths, with dancing bonbons and candy canes. obt.org

Dec. 18

Something for the die-hard Beaver state fan. Made of bamboo plywood (aka Plyboo), the Brooklynmade board can stand up to regular prep work and be used as a stylish cheese and charcuterie plate, too. Transplants who want to annoy their native friends can choose from one of the other 49 states (there’s no D.C.) the AHeirloom Etsy shop makes, from a plain-looking Colorado to a multipiece Hawaii set with petite islands all to scale. The best part? The husband-and-wife team will cut a tiny heart over your favorite city at no extra charge. $40, — Danielle Centoni Aheirloom.etsy.com Thai Street Food, David Thompson, Ten Speed Press, $60, 372 pages

The market’s last gasp Fresh produce fans, this is it! It’s the last Saturday edition of the Portland Farmers Market until the end of March. It’s a perfect place for gathering jarred goods and spice mixes for Christmas gift baskets. Don’t forget to buy some tokens, which will be good next year and make great stocking stuffers. portlandfarmersmarket.org

book me a tiCket, or maybe Just the book

Dec. 22-23

No lumps of coal here One of the unique traditions of Basque Country is the legend of “Olentzero,” a coal man who comes down from the mountains to hand out chestnuts and wine, as well as presents for children. The yuletide character is one of the sources for the “lump of coal” that naughty children receive in their stockings on Christmas Eve. Whether you’ve been naughty or nice, there’s a place for 16 you at the table for Castagna’s Basque Holiday Dinner, a $65 five-course feast that includes traditional dishes like Bacalao (dried salt cod fritters) and Chuleton (a hearty beef rib steak). castagnarestaurant.com

AP PHOTO

Dec. 23-26

A Big Apple Christmas Just because you can’t make it to New York City at Christmastime doesn’t mean you can’t vicariously take a bite out of the city that doesn’t sleep. Sit on Santa’s lap at Macy’s downtown, head to Kornblatt’s New York Style Deli for a Reuben and some pickles. Then hit the big event: The Radio City Christmas Spectacular, a touring version of the Radio City musical evergreen extravaganza featuring a living Nativity, plenty of seasonal music and the high-kicking Rockettes, a New York tradition since the 1930s. If you only know them from the Thanksgiving Day parade, you owe it to yourself to see them live. rosequarter.com

more to do

handmade but affordable La Chamba ceramic pots, named for the village in Colombia where they’ve been made for centuries, are much lighter than enameled cast iron but just as excellent at retaining (though not conducting) heat, making them perfect for anything you want to simmer or bake slowly. They’re also a fraction of the price ($52 for a 3-quart lidded casserole versus $190 for similarly sized Le Creuset or $115 for a flame-top Emile Henry). Though most ceramics would crack if set on direct heat, these pots are made from micarich clay, so they can go from stove to oven to table without a hitch. And because they truly are made by hand — they’re even rubbed with pebbles instead of glazed — each Prices vary, Mytoque.com piece radiates a sense of soul. — D.C.

By the time you’ve paged through David Thompson’s coffee-table cookbook, you’ll be starving and reserving a seat on the next flight to Bangkok, as I did (Delta Flight 91 PDX-Tokyo-BKK). “Thai Street Food” documents the vibrant markets and food carts with easy to interpret (not always easy to make) recipes and an endless stream of colorful and captivating photos: women tending flaming woks, smiling noodle makers, and bubbling broths of giant prawns swimming off the page. Once you’ve stocked your pantry with exotics such as pandanus leaves, Siamese watercress and yellow bean sauce, get out your wok. Thompson is an excellent teacher, stirring tidbits of culture and history into his meticulous instruction and technique. Andy Ricker, owner of Portland’s Thai food mecca, Pok Pok, says, “Thompson unearths treasures not easily identified by your average Western traveler and makes them accessible to home cooks, always with a back story that is fascinating even to Thai food aficionados.” Divided by time of day, the morning recipes — such as Sticky Rice Pikelets and Steamed Cassava Cakes — are sweet and savory. By midday, aromatic spiced noodle bowls and curry shop specialties such as Jungle Curry of Minced Quail take over. Dtam Sang (made to order) stalls perfume the night air with Deep-Fried Soft Shell Crabs, Garlic and Black Pepper. With “Thai Street Food,” cooking through the night is very tempting. So, if you can’t get to Asia, a trip to Fubonn Market (2850 S.E. 82nd Ave.) and a few hours at your stove could be just the ticket. — Teri Gelber

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startersand some more to do Cont. Dec. 25

Wonder what he did for antacid? Merry Christmas! Did you know that Sir William Petrie’s Christmas feast in 1580 included 17 oxen, 14 steers, 29 calves, five hogs, 13 bucks, 54 lambs, 129 sheep and one ton of cheese? That gives you license to eat whatever you want at your own feast and not feel guilty about it.

Wine Class in a box Your special someone loves wine and the thrill of discovery. You could book some plane tickets to Bordeaux, but a better value might be 12@$12, a mixed case of distinctive wines selected for flavor and value by the Wine & Spirit Archive,

Dec. 31

Ring-a-ding-ding! You’re seriously thinking of staying home on New Year’s Eve? Come on, it’s one of the most celebratory nights of the year, and Portland restaurants pull out all the stops with special menus, festive decor and champagne toasts as the clock strikes midnight. For opulence, we suggest making reservations at Bluehour, Genoa or Castagna. For a more intimate evening, try Paley’s Place, Lincoln or the funky Japanese bar Tanuki.

828 S.E. Ash St., No. 204 503-764-7698 www.wineandspiritarchive.com/shop Shop hours 3-6 p.m. Wednesday and 4-7 p.m. Friday, or by appointment

January Jan. 1

This year will be different 18 Between nursing a hangover and watching college bowl games, New Year’s Day is the time for making unrealistic resolutions to lose weight, get fit and drop a few sizes. Instead, resolve to eat better. Buy more organic produce. Cut down on takeout. Crack open those interesting cookbooks you got for Christmas and actually cook out of them. Sounds like a lot more fun than aerobics, doesn’t it?

Jan. 28-29

Glass menagerie The middle of winter feels a lot less bleak, thanks to the Oregon Wine, Food & Brew Festival, a two-day celebration of the state’s interesting food and drink scene. Expect hearty winter ales and craft beers, an eclectic array of wineries, plus cooking demonstrations from top regional chefs, all under one roof at the State Fairgrounds in Salem. oregonwinefoodbrewfest.com

Jan. 28-30

For the love of truffles Since its inception, the Oregon Truffle Festival has offered seminars, cooking classes and field trips. But the real reason to head to Eugene for the weekend-long event is the Grand Truffle Dinner, a sure sell-out feast created by four Northwest chefs, including David Anderson of Genoa and Cathy Whims of Nostrana. The $175, five-course meal features white and black truffles, all paired with magnificent Oregon wines. oregontrufflefestival.com

a Northwest wine education center based in Portland. The wines, hand-picked by Mimi Martin, the organization’s co-owner and director (who also sits on the MIX tasting panel), range from everyday sippers to special-occasion bottles and emphasize lesser-known regions and grape varieties. Current selections include picpoul, a high-acid, refreshing white from southern France that’s great with seafood, Martin says, and a cabernet franc blend from southwest France that “has a little age on it, with a rustic, funky brambly type character.” There’s a mix of white and red, Old and New World wines. Best of all, every bottle in the well-curated collection wears a neck tag describing region, grape variety and how the wine was made, plus food pairing suggestions. So while you make dinner, your beloved can make it into a wine lesson, or just sip and say thank you. — D.C.

everyone Can use a neW mug For something so crucial to our daily routine, travel mugs are a sadly pedestrian lot -- clunky and utilitarian -- the granny panties of the cup world. But the geniuses at photojojo.com have a different vision for their morning cup: stainless-steel-lined travel mugs that look like real camera lenses, complete with rubber grips,

auto-focus switches that actually switch and a spill-proof lens-cap lid. A perfect gift for the kind of person who actually knows what 24-105 mm means (or those who don’t), the mugs come in two styles, so Canon diehards and Nikon devotees can sip out of their preferred lens. — D.C. Canon $24; Nikon “Zoom” $30; photojojo.com

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walkabout industrial eastside

For years, Portland’s Industrial Eastside was where you’d go to pick up ceramic tiles for a home improvement project or buy inexpensive fruit at the now longdefunct Corno’s Market. At night, it was a no-man’s land, with the roar of Interstate 5 interrupted only by the whistle of slow-moving freight trains. Then in 2004, the critically acclaimed

Clarklewis restaurant opened, with an avant-garde approach to dining, a flair for industrial chic and owners with a knack for making outrageous statements to the media. The flash point of cuisine and controversy worked: Suddenly, curious palates were flocking to the neighborhood at night to see what the buzz was all about.

BY GRANT BUTLER / PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS BOYd

walkabout / industrial eastside cont.

SE OAK ST. 6

SE 2nD AvE.

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When Clarklewis’ original ownership imploded amid whispers of shaky finances, Portland’s top restaurateur, Bruce Carey, stepped in. The restaurant took a more-traditional turn than its groundbreaking original incarnation, but the stylish and impossibly loud dining room continued to be a big draw. In the last year, a lot of new blood has joined Clarklewis along Southeast Water Avenue. New food and drink ventures have opened, with an emphasis on artisan sandwiches, smallbatch coffee beans and craft ales. And nearby, there’s even more action, as a decades-old workingman’s bar has had a major makeover. Here’s a look a the new players,

plus snapshots of a few neighborhood stalwarts that give the Industrial Eastside its unusual vibe. The large open space that until recently was home to The Q Center has been reborn as one of the best new additions to the city’s coffee scene: 1 Water Avenue Coffee Company (1028 S.E. Water Ave.; 503-232-2222; wateravenuecoffee.com). In the morning, sunshine streams through the south-facing windows, while laptoppers plug into the counter overlooking the shop’s coffee bean roasters. Order your drink under the dizzying glow of the blue neon “Coffee” sign, then head to the back of the shop to check out the action. If you’re lucky, you’ll be there when the raw

SE yAmHiLL ST. 4 1 3

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beans are poured into one of the two carefully restored roasters and then tumbled until they’re dark and rich. The small-batch boutique roasts are bagged up and dated with an “I was born on …” label. A roasting date beats a “best by” expiration date any day. With coffee in hand, it’s time for some of the most eclectic browsing around at 2 Portland Store Fixtures (110 S.E. Main St.; 503-232-4878; portlandstorefixtures.com), a funky warren of little rooms filled with fixtures from long-gone department stores and shops. For a song, you can pick up glass display cases that once housed affordable jewelry or Timex watches and that deserve an afterlife showing off your collection of tiki glasses and one-of-a-kind cocktail shakers. Follow arrows to the back of the store and dig deep for unusual props that could be turned into a unique party decoration. Need a mannequin dressed up as Father Time for your New Year’s party? This is the place. If you’ve fallen in love with the meaty, rich sandwiches at Southeast Morrison Street’s Bunk Sandwiches, you’ve probably faced the big dilemma. At lunchtime, the lines are so long you probably can’t eat and get back to work on time. So you’re

make your office party merry and bright, plus noisemakers and crazy hats for New Year’s Eve. Come March, this is the place for all things green — no luck required. 6

forced to either eat at 11 a.m. or try making it to 2 p.m. without gnawing your arm off. Fortunately, there’s 3 Bunk Bar (1028 S.E. Water Ave.; 503-477-9515; bunkbar.com), the latest outpost for Bunk Sandwiches, so now you can get Tommy Habetz and Nick Wood’s great sandwiches with a beer chaser. There’s a very “chill-out” mood to the setting, with large couches, cozy booths and dJs spinning vintage alt-rock. Ordering is a twostep process: First, get a basic cocktail, beer or wine at the bar; then head to the kitchen window, surveying the chalkboard for that evening’s specialties. The menu is

quite similar to the original, so you can get your Bunk fix before last call. Why wait in line now? 4 The Lippman Company

(50 S.E. Yamhill St.; 503-239-7007; lippmancompany.com) has been Portland’s official party depot for more than 60 years, but that doesn’t mean this spot for picking up decorations and favors is locked in the era of donna Reed. Yearround, there are props you can rent for casino, pirate and Hollywoodthemed parties. Right now, look for yuletide streamers, paper plates, plastic utensils and enough tinseltwinged tabletop decorations to

Beer connoisseurs know that Hair of the dog is the place for unusual, bottle-conditioned ales. At the new 5 Hair of the Dog Brewery and Tasting Room (61 S.E. Yamhill St.; 503-232-6585; hairofthedog.com), you can sample 3-ounce pours, which run just $2-$3. The best approach is to order “Walk the dog Around the Block” with tastes of all six beers on tap, including several named after beer writer and historian Fred Eckhardt, an icon of Oregon’s craft beer scene. There also are bottles of barley wine made with honey, plus ales aged in barrels that once held bourbon and apple eau de vie. If that’s not raising beer to a new

decadent level, what is? When 6 Produce Row Cafe (204 S.E. Oak St.; 503-232-8355; producerowcafe.com) opened in 1974, it was a workingman’s bar where workers in the neighborhood would come after a day of moving crates of imported bananas and regional fruits and vegetables. This year, the nightlife fixture got a massive overhaul, with a new outdoor seating area that’s partially covered to keep diners dry, plus a sexily redone dining area, where curved booths and low lighting evoke a romantic glow. You’ll still find big burgers and beer-battered fries, pairings of beer and whiskey, and veteran jazz drummer Ron Steen still holds his classic Monday night jazz jams here. But dJs spin here, too, and frequent movie nights keep the atmosphere ever-changing. Like the Industrial Eastside itself. £

Friday night dinner Party [ How Swede it is ] By Laura Byrne ruSSeLL photographs by Brian Lee

A 24

round the time the leaves start changing colors, most people’s thoughts drift toward football, holiday gifts and sugar cookies. Mine turn to pickled herring and icy shots of aquavit. For the past five years, Stockholm transplant and friend Catarina Millqvist Hunter (and her nonSwedish husband, Shawn) play host to what has become the dinner i look forward to most all season. in mid-December, friends gather to enjoy a true feast and to share in a tradition not many of us know, a Swedish Christmas. The evening always starts out civilized enough: We arrive, dressed a bit fancier than usual, to a home filled with the warmth of the holidays. We each bring a dish, assigned by Catarina, and meet in the kitchen to exchange our platters, bottles or casseroles for a steaming cup of glögg. We eat Scandinavian cheeses, crackers and liverwurst by the fireplace, and attempt to decipher the jumbled puzzle of seating assignments that Catarina presents to us as a game — in Swedish, of course. Which requires more glögg, please. a fish course of sliced gravlax, five types of pickled herring and a tart beet salad instantly sends our palates to Sweden. it is served at a table sparkling in candlelight and lined with bottles of dark european beers and chilled aquavit. notice i did not mention water. Glasses are raised to the hostess, who leads us in the first of many Swedish drinking songs. anchored by a giant mustard-and-bread-crumb-crusted ham, the buffet is what norman rockwell would have painted had he been Swedish: our friend Sarah’s braised red cabbage, the perfect balance of tart and sweet; a creamy and rich potato casserole called Jansson’s Temptation; and braised mustard greens for a bitter edge. Swedish meatballs in lingonberry sauce — yes, Swedes really eat Swedish meatballs — and sliced weisswurst round out the table. and if i can find an inch of room left on my plate, i always sneak another slice of the gravlax … just because. intoxicated by food, friends and libations (OK, drunk) the party goes from refined to raucous. We are belting out Helan gar and Snöret like a pack of true Swedes — snide comments about norwegians are soon to follow. For a grand finale, Catarina cajoles the willing into an aBBa singalong dance marathon. yes, Swedes really like aBBa, but then again, who doesn’t?

Swedish Christmas dinner at the house of Stockholm transplant Catarina Hunter (left) starts out like a party for grown-ups — look, table decor! — but after the glögg, dark beer and aquavit, everyone’s inner ABBA comes rollicking out. Fortunately the revelry is held in check by a menu of substantial Swedish favorites, including ham, cabbage and lots and lots of pickled fish.

Catarina’s Swedish Christmas Menu The celebratory holiday menu below is fit for a large group. if you’re the host, you should tackle the ham, but you can either buy or assign to guests most of the other dishes. you can also choose to make the menu on a much smaller scale by serving only the recipes in bold, which we’ve included in the article, adding some Wasa crisp bread or boiled potatoes to round out the meal. Many of the specialty items are available at edelweiss or ikea.

THe WeLCOMe: Holiday Glögg

assorted Scandinavian cheeses and crackers Liverwurst

THe FiSH anD piCKLeD COurSe: Gravlax with Coriander Mustard Sauce

(Note: You can also buy sliced gravlax at upscale groceries)

assorted pickled herring (dill, garlic, mustard, black currant, wine sauce) pickled beet salad 26

Chilled aquavit

THe Main BuFFeT: Baked Christmas Ham

served with applesauce and assorted mustards Grandma Conrad’s Christmas Cabbage

Braised mustard greens Swedish meatballs with lingonberry sauce Jansson’s Temptation potatoes (see mixpdx.com for a recipe from Christian Krogstad) or boiled potatoes with butter Simmered sausages, such as weisswurst and wieners Chilled aquavit and a collection of dark beers

THe DeSSerT: Cloudberry Fool

Meringue cookies or gingersnaps Homemade Swedish candies

The timeline The key to pulling together the Swedish Christmas buffet comes down to one word: delegate. no one minds bringing a dish or two to such an elaborate feast. assign more substantial dishes to friends who love to cook and save the “foraged foods” (cheese, crackers, liverwurst, jarred pickled herring, mustards, aquavit, beer, sausages, cookies) for those who don’t. TWO WeeKS aHeaD assign duties to guests. Give them the make-ahead tips below. up TO One WeeK aHeaD Cure gravlax — remove cure after 48 hours and refrigerate, well wrapped, until ready to slice. TWO DayS aHeaD Make gravlax sauce, refrigerate. Cook Grandma Conrad’s Christmas Cabbage, refrigerate. infuse vodka for Glögg. Make (or buy) Swedish meatballs, refrigerate. One Day aHeaD Make Jansson’s Temptation potatoes, refrigerate. Braise mustard greens with bacon and onion, refrigerate. Make pickled beet salad, refrigerate.

earLier in THe Day Cook ham. Make Cloudberry Fool, refrigerate. Slice gravlax, refrigerate. LaST MinuTe Make Glögg. Set out cheeses, crackers and liverwurst. Set out sliced gravlax and sauce, bowls of pickled herring and beet salad. add crust and slice the ham. Simmer sausages. reheat cabbage, potatoes, mustard greens and meatballs if necessary. put Cloudberry Fool in bowls. Garnish with cookies.

One

JOAN

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January 8 at 7:30 pm The comedy legend and subject of the critically acclaimed new film documentary, Joan Rivers: A Piece of Work, comes to Portland for only one unforgettable live performance this season. Tickets start at $23

Holiday Glögg MAkeS 10 ServingS

as guests arrive, greet them with a warm cup of holiday glögg, the first of many of the evening’s libations. any reasonably priced dry red wine will do (pinot noir works well); in fact, you should avoid really special wines whose nuances would be lost here. almonds and raisins serve as garnishes, a special treat waiting at the bottom of your glass. and enjoy a citrusy burst of acidity from a last-minute addition of lemon zest. 1 cup vodka 2 cinnamon sticks

The Fire and Passion oF Tango january 18 at 7:30 PM

20 whole cloves 1½ teaspoons ground cardamom 2 small pieces peeled fresh ginger (about 2 inches by ½ inch each) 2 bottles dry red wine 1½ cups sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla extract Whole blanched almonds, for serving raisins, for serving 1 lemon, for serving

Tango Buenos Aires, a dynamic company of 18 dancers from Argentina, presents the history of modern tango in story form. Accompaniment is provided by 7 musicians, including 2 performers on the concertina-like bandoneón, essential to the authentic tango sound.

Tickets start at $23

a day or two before serving, combine the vodka, cinnamon sticks, cloves, cardamom and ginger in a jar. Let the vodka stand, covered, for 24 to 48 hours to infuse the flavors. Just before serving, warm the wine in a large pot. add the sugar and vanilla and cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Strain the infused vodka into the wine and continue heating until the glögg is hot. Do not let it boil. Serve the glögg in small cups with a few blanched almonds and raisins. Zest one strip of lemon peel into each cup. — Adapted from friend Tove Torvalds’ family recipe, circa 1870

Please note: The Oregon Symphony does not perform.

Call: 503-228-1353 Click: orSymphony.org Ticket office: 923 SW Washington

| 10 am – 6 pm Mon – fri

Groups of 10 or more save: 503-416-6380

Arlene Schnitzer concert hAll SW MAin & Br oAd WAy · Por TlAn d Cen T er for T he PerforMin g ArT S

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Friday night dinner Party cont.

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Gravlax with Coriander Mustard Sauce MAkeS 10 to 12 ServingS

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Making homemade gravlax may sound intimidating, but in fact it’s a simple and wholly satisfying project. The only real effort involved is slicing the fish. The home-cured version proves cost effective as well, since store-bought gravlax can be quite expensive. essentially, once you procure a side of salmon, pack it in a salt-and-sugar cure, blanket the whole thing in dill and add a shot of vodka (alcohol carries flavor), you just let nature take its course. if you’re serving aquavit later in the meal, give that a try instead of the vodka. The spices infused in the aquavit will shine through in the flavor of the gravlax.

Gravlax 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns 1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds ½ cup kosher salt 1 cup sugar One skinless 3-pound salmon fillet, in one piece, pin bones removed 3 cups roughly chopped fresh dill (about 2 bunches) 2 tablespoons vodka or aquavit Mustard sauce 2½ tablespoons honey mustard 4 teaspoons white-wine vinegar ½ teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¾ cup vegetable oil ¼ cup chopped fresh dill

roughly crush the peppercorns and coriander seeds in a mortar and pestle or pulse a few times in a spice grinder. Combine with the kosher salt and sugar in a small bowl. Line a rimmed baking sheet with plastic wrap. put about a quarter of the salt mixture on the baking sheet where the fish will sit; top it with the salmon fillet. Sprinkle the remaining salt mixture over the fish and pat it down with your hands. Top the fish with the 3 cups dill and pour the vodka over the top. Cover the fish with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature to start the curing process, about 4 hours. (The sugar and salt will start to liquefy.) refrigerate the fish for 36 to 48 hours (use the shorter time for thinner fillets, longer for thicker fillets). remove the salmon from the refrigerator and scrape the seasonings off the fish with your hand or the back of a knife. at this point you can slice and serve the fish, or put it on a clean baking sheet and refrigerate it, covered, for up to a week. Just be sure to remove the cure after 48 hours. Make the sauce: in a blender, combine the honey mustard, vinegar, ground coriander, ground black pepper and salt. With the machine running, add the vegetable oil to form a thick dressing. pour it into a small bowl and stir in the chopped dill. The sauce will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to two days. Transfer the gravlax to a cutting board. With a sharp knife, slice the fish at a diagonal into ultra-thin slices. you may want to dip the knife in water between slices to keep the fish from sticking to it. arrange the slices on a serving platter as you cut them. Serve the gravlax with the sauce. — Laura B. Russell

if you really want a Swedish Ham

Baked Swedish Christmas Ham MAkeS 10 ServingS witH plenty oF leFtoverS

a golden burnished ham, swathed in mustard and dusted with bread crumbs, plays the starring role at the Swedish Christmas table. a true Swedish-cured ham can be hard to come by (see box at right), but you can still have luscious results — with much less effort — using a bone-in ham from your butcher. Since this type of ham is partially cooked, you essentially just need to warm it through in a low oven and then finish the crust with a blast of higher heat right before serving. (note: This still takes several hours depending on the size of the ham.) Save any leftover ham — and the bone — for a hearty split-pea soup. 1 whole bone-in ham, about 16 pounds 1 egg yolk 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard ⁄3 cup fine homemade bread crumbs

15 whole cloves assorted mustards, for serving applesauce, for serving

Let the ham sit for about an hour at room temperature before cooking. Heat the oven to 300 degrees. put the ham on a rack in a large roasting pan and loosely drape a piece of aluminum foil over the top. Cook the ham to an internal temperature of 135 to 140 degrees. This should take approximately 18 minutes per pound, four to five hours total depending on the size of your ham. remove the ham from the oven and let it cool for at least 30 minutes, or let it stand at room temperature for up to two hours. During this time, if the ham has a layer of skin covering the outside, slice it off with a sharp knife. it is not important that the ham is served hot; baking it ahead of time is not a problem. Just before serving, heat the oven to 450 degrees. Whisk the egg yolk and mustard together and slather it over the ham. Sprinkle the bread crumbs over the top. push the cloves into the ham at even intervals. Bake the ham until the bread crumbs form a golden brown crust, about 15 minutes. remove the ham from the oven and cut it into slices or carve it at the table for a more dramatic holiday presentation. Serve with assorted mustards and applesauce. — Laura B. Russell

as the main course and guest of honor on the Christmas table, a Swedish ham warrants quite a bit of attention before the big day. according to Beatrice Ojakangas, author of “Scandinavian Feasts,” the Christmas ham is a fresh (raw), bone-in leg of pork that is coated in a mixture of salt, sugar and saltpeter and refrigerated overnight. next, the pork bathes in brine for a period of two to three weeks, followed by a 24hour dunk in fresh water. after that the ham is thoroughly air-dried and then baked in a slow oven to an internal temperature of around 170 degrees. at this point, some choose to smoke the ham as well. Before serving, the ham is coated with a mustard, sugar and bread crumb crust and baked until golden — phew! in lieu of dedicating the entire month of December to ham preparation, you have a few options. Victor’s european Meat Market cures bone-in or boneless fresh legs of pork in the Swedish style. They give you the option of smoking the ham or not; if the ham is smoked you only need to reheat it, but a nonsmoked ham must be fully cooked to 170 degrees. Victor’s Market does need about a month’s notice, however, to order a Swedish-style ham. Lacking the time (or interest) in die-hard tradition, it’s absolutely acceptable to grab a ham from your favorite butcher. a whole bonein ham is impressive on a holiday table, but you could order a half-ham or boneless ham according to your needs. purchase a ham that has been brined and lightly smoked (this is what you typically find when you ask the butcher for a ham), not a salt-cured “country ham.” a brined, smoked ham is considered “partially cooked” and needs to be heated to 135 to 140 degrees. Keep in mind that for a bone-in behemoth, this could still take several hours. use a meat thermometer as a guide to doneness. (note: Thanks to aaron Silverman of Tails & Trotters for answering many hamrelated questions.) Victor’s European Meat Market

13500 S.W. pacific Highway, Tigard 503-684-2580 Phil’s Uptown Meat Market

17 n.W. 23rd place, portland 503-224-9541 Gartner’s Country Meat Market

7450 n.e. Killingsworth St., portland 503-252-7801 Tails & Trotters Pork at Eastmoreland Market

3616 S.e. Knapp St., portland 503-771-1186

Friday night dinner Party cont.

Grandma Conrad’s Christmas Cabbage MAkeS 10 ServingS

Cook the cabbage long and slow for melting texture and sweetand-sour taste. The cabbage reheats perfectly and actually tastes better when prepared a day or two ahead of time, giving the flavors time to meld. Take a little taste of the cabbage when you reheat it and make any adjustments in sweetness (sugar), tartness (vinegar) or seasoning (salt and pepper). 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons sugar One 3½-pound red cabbage, shredded 6 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons water ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped ¾ cup red currant jelly

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over moderate heat. add the sugar and stir until it melts. add the cabbage and cook, stirring occasionally, for two minutes. add the vinegar, water, salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Lower the heat and cook, covered, until the cabbage is tender, about two hours. Stir the cabbage occasionally while cooking; if the pan seems dry, add a tablespoon or two of water to prevent burning. Stir the apples and jelly into the cabbage. Simmer the cabbage, covered, for another hour, until the apples are tender and the flavors meld. The cabbage can be made up to two days ahead (and tastes even better this way), kept covered in the refrigerator. reheat the cabbage in a saucepan, covered, over moderately low heat. Taste a piece of cabbage and add more salt, pepper, sugar or vinegar to your taste. — Adapted from friend Sarah Remy’s family recipe

A Performance Five Thousand Years in the Making.

Cloudberry Fool MAkeS 10 ServingS

a simple dessert feels like an appropriate ending to such a huge feast. The fool, an easy combination of whipped cream and tangy jam, provides the sweetness and flavor but lacks contrast in texture. To solve the problem, serve it along with gingersnaps or another crisp cookie such as tuiles. in Sweden, they even crumble meringues into the fool for an odd yet surprisingly tasty combination. Cloudberry jam can be hard to find (ikea), but you can substitute lingonberry jam for a tarter, still-Swedish-inspired dessert, or use any chunky jam you like. 1 quart whipping cream 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Two 15-ounce jars cloudberry jam, or substitute lingonberry or another chunky jam Homemade or purchased gingersnaps, tuiles, or meringue cookies using a stand or hand-held mixer, whip the cream in a large mixing bowl until foamy and starting to thicken. Slowly pour in the sugar and continue whipping the cream to soft peaks. Stir in the vanilla extract. put the jam in a large serving bowl. With a large spatula, fold in the whipped cream, about a quarter at a time, until just combined. Taste the fool and add a touch more sugar if needed, depending on the sweetness of your jam. The fool can be made up to six hours ahead, kept covered in the refrigerator. Serve the fool with cookies or meringues for added crunch. — Laura B. Russell £

“A visually dazzling tour of 5,000 years of Chinese history and culture.” — San Francisco Chronicle

“These beautiful, gifted people are expressing something that’s both pure and good.” — Philadelphia Weekly

Classical Chinese Dance & Music in an Unforgettable Production

performance by Shen yun is traditional chinese culture as it was meant to be—a profound study in grace and wisdom distilled from 5,000 years of civilization.

Shen yun features one of the most expressive, and also one of the most demanding, art forms in the world: classical chinese dance. It is a complete system of dance refined through thousands of years. The classically trained dancers, musicians, and singers of Shen yun dedicate themselves to reviving the essence of humanity’s divinely inspired culture. They believe that to create true art, there must first be inner purity. Thus, they are sure to include study and meditation into their rigorous training regimen. choreographers find an inexhaustible source of inspiration in china’s many dynasties and ethnic groups. from this backdrop of chinese history, they bring to life tales of well-known legends and time-honored values, displaying goodness and loyalty, courage and tragedy. This winter, Shen yun will again debut a spectacular original production with all new dances, costumes, and music. experience the extraordinary.

January 7 - 9

KELLER AUDITORIUM WITH LIVE ORCHESTRA

ShenYunPerformingArts.org

TICKETS: $60 - $180 Ticketmaster | PCPA Box Ofﬁce Hotline: 503.342.8066 Presented by: New Epoch Culture Center Oregon Falun Dafa Association Sponsored by:

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[ Cellos are for sipping ]

mixmaster

By AshLey gArtLAND / PhotogrAPhy By Beth NAkAmurA A few years ago, the sweet, citrusy liqueur known as limoncello was maybe familiar only to travelers who’ve sipped the digestif throughout Italy (and to anyone following Danny DeVito’s mission to become the face of the beverage in America). But now Portlanders can get their hands on imported bottles and locally made cellos of all sorts at Portland restaurants such as Lincoln, Fratelli, Accanto and Nel Centro, where barkeeps mix cellos in cocktails and serve them solo after long, leisurely meals.

Cellos — and particularly limoncello — came from the Italians’ reflex to use local resources in a simple way. “Limoncello is a really rustic thing — it’s just grain alcohol, lemon and sugar,” says Nel Centro bartender Nat stout. Portland bartenders, however, aren’t sitting on bushels of citrus fruit like their Italian counterparts; they make limoncello not out of necessity but instead to bring a measure of authenticity to their bars.

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Pazzo chef John eisenhart is a limoncello-making veteran who makes the canary-yellow liqueur in-house when he can source high-quality lemons for his bar. the process of making limoncello, he says, is criminally easy, though it does take time: steep lemon peels in a neutral spirit for one to two months, then sweeten the resulting mixture with simple syrup. over time, the lemon peels impart their bright, sunshiny flavor to the neutral spirit. “It’s basically an infusion,” says eisenhart. “the alcohol pulls out the oils (from the peels) and even the color of the fruit itself.” But lemons aren’t the only ingredient local bartenders use to make cellos. At Lincoln, co-owner and bar manager David Welch serves a chilled house-made orangecello (called arancello in Italy) with desserts or on its own as a digestif; at Fratelli and Bar Dué, lead bartender Chino Lee keeps a supply of house-made limoncello and orangecello on hand yearround. And at Accanto, bar manager Chris grant uses fresh fennel seeds to make less common fennel cello. No matter which main ingredient they use, bartenders stick with a neutral spirit to make their cellos. traditionally, Italians used grain alcohol or homemade moonshine to make cellos. modern bartenders typically use potent everclear or more mellow vodka to make their batches. “I use a potato vodka,” grant says. “A lot of people use everclear, which is unavailable in oregon but is available in Washington. But I think everclear has too much gassiness to it. It’s a little too much of a high-octane spirit for me.” the soaking period requires little else besides patience, though eisenhart recommends shaking the jarred infusion occasionally to aerate the mixture and help

pull the flavor out of the fruit. It’s also important to store the infusion in a dark place, he says, because sunlight can rob the cello of the fruit’s brightness. then, after about one to two months of waiting, all that’s left to do is remove the citrus peels (or fennel seeds), sweeten the infusion with simple syrup, and chill the liqueur before serving.

not just a digestivo In Italy, cellos are often served as a digestivo, or after-dinner drink. But though plenty of Portland bartenders honor this tradition and serve their cellos chilled in small glasses to signal the end of a meal, others have found modern uses for cellos on their cocktail lists as well. At Nel Centro, stout serves imported cellos in refined cocktails such as the Via san Luca and the Bella Donna. “It’s a great mixer and has the combination of tart

Nel Centro’s bartender Nat stout turns rustic cello into refined cocktails, such as his Via san Luca, named for one of the main roads in genoa (see the recipe on Page 36). he likes the fact that cellos bring tart and sweet together in one mixer.

and sweet that people are already looking for in a cocktail,” he says. Adding cello allows him to satisfy both needs with one ingredient. Beware of the sweet, however. Lee cautions home bartenders to be strict with their pours when using it at home. the liqueur’s high sugar content, he says, can make a cocktail taste like a glass of kool-Aid if used with a heavy hand. At Bar Dué and Fratelli, he tempers his house-made limoncello with citrus-infused vodka, cranberry juice and fresh lemon juice in the Cosmo Italiano and cuts his house-made orangecello with vodka and fresh lemon juice in the Fratelli Cello Drop. At Nel Centro, limoncello gets a lift from brandy, muddled lemons and a splash of prosecco in the Via san Luca and pairings of rum, lemon juice, rose syrup and sparkling wine in the Bella Donna. the convergence of citrus season, holiday party season and gift-giving season means it’s homemade cello season, too. here are a few recipes for inspiration. get started soon because they all need time to infuse.

G R E A T

Lincoln Limoncello mAkes ABout 3 quArts

unlike traditional recipes, which incorporate the sugar syrup in the final step, Lincoln’s co-owner and bar manager David Welch prefers adding the syrup midway through the infusing process to give the flavors time to meld. When the liqueur is finished, he and his wife (Lincoln’s chef Jenn Louis) pour it into beautiful bottles and cork it to give to friends and family. Note: many recipes for limoncello infuse the vodka for less time than this recipe calls for, some for as little as a week, so you can adjust the final time to suit your gift-giving schedule. 15 lemons 2 750-ml bottles vodka 4½ cups sugar 5 cups water

rinse the lemons in hot water and dry. remove zest — the yellow part of the lemon peel — but not the white pith, with a vegetable peeler or sharp paring knife. Put the peels in a 4-quart mason jar. reserve the lemons for another use. Add 1 bottle of the vodka to the jar and stir. Cover the jar, date it and let it rest in a dark cabinet at room temperature for 40 days. remove the vodka-lemon mixture from the cabinet. In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring the sugar and water to a boil; boil for 5 minutes. remove the syrup from the heat and cool completely. Add the sugar syrup and second bottle of vodka to the vodka-lemon mixture. stir well to combine. replace the lid on the jar and note the finish date. return to the dark cabinet and let rest for 40 days longer. on day 80, remove the limoncello from the cabinet. strain the mixture and discard the lemon peels. Pour the limoncello into clean bottles. store the bottles in the pantry or put one bottle at a time in the freezer until ready to use. — From Jenn Louis and David Welch, Lincoln Restaurant

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Fabulousness results when the right oysters are paired with the perfect Champagne

At The Bubbly Spectacular By Cheryl WAkerhAuSer and ToBiAS hogAn Champagne has a bad rap, namely that it should be reserved for special celebrations or New Year’s Eve. C’est fou! What’s a party — any party — without Champagne? Or for that matter, what’s a Tuesday without it? In fact, any kind of sparkling wine is a perfect aperitif and food partner on any day of the week, for just about any occasion. Just remembered to pay the water bill? Great. Let’s have some prosecco. Finally got a day off ? That calls for a nice cava. Just happened upon a couple dozen oysters at the market? Might as well open that vintage brut you’ve been holding on to for so long. Actually, when it comes to oysters, my boyfriend, Tobias Hogan, owner of EaT: An Oyster Bar, and I (owner of Pix Pâtisserie) insist on Champagne. And while we’re at it, why not invite all our friends? In fact, it’s our favorite sort of party: oysters and bubbles.

/ Photography by Mike DAViS

Cheryl Wakerhauser and Tobias Hogan (above) have a party every year to celebrate their favorite things — Champagne and oysters. They’re just a touch obsessed by them, which is lucky for us because they’re sharing all their knowledge, in the most exuberant way.

Why? Because like sparkling wine, oysters take on the flavor of their home. Eating a fresh oyster is like eating the essence of the ocean, la mer. “Wines have terroir, oysters have MERoir,” Tobias likes to say. Which is why those briny Hama Hamas and creamy Kumamotos from the Northwest and the Belons harvested from the mouth of the Belon River in Brittany, France, are just as complexly satisfying as a bottle of vintage José Michel. It’s the perfect marriage, really. And that kind of marriage calls for a celebration, a 21-gun salute of sorts: a sabering! I slice off the top of a bottle of Champagne (at this party, it was a Gaston-Chiquet, Blanc de Blancs NV) with a Guatemalan machete that Tobias and I bought on our last vacation. Everyone raises their glasses. Tobias raises his shucking knife. Let the festivities begin!

Tobias’ advice for eating only the good ones

It’s best to eat oysters the day you buy them. But if you can’t, store them in a refrigerator with a damp cloth draped over them. Remember, the oysters are living creatures; they shouldn’t be submerged in water or left in melted ice or they’ll die, and die a lot quicker. If stored correctly, an oyster can live out of water for several weeks, but it’s not getting any tastier; it can taste like a wine that’s just past its peak. Your best bet is to buy your oysters at an oyster bar or direct from a dealer or oyster farm, and always ask your seller when the oyster was harvested. When you’re ready to eat your oysters, look at each one to see if it’s open; if so, tap it — if it doesn’t close then, it’s probably dead and you shouldn’t eat it. If you open an oyster that’s not dead, but looks a little on the dry side, save it for cooking and look for a fresh oyster to eat raw. It’s not going to make you sick, but it won’t have that fresh ocean flavor. What kind of oyster to buy depends on what you like. There are five species of oysters commonly consumed in the U.S., each with its own personality stemming directly from the area where the oysters are raised. Malpeques from Prince Edward Island (Crassostrea virginica), the Eastern or Atlantic oyster, grown along the Eastern Seaboard and the Gulf Coast, and native to those regions: In cooler climates, they have bitingly briny, metallic and even woody flavors with a firm texture. In the warmer waters to the south, they’ll take on subtle flavors like melon, and a softer, plump texture. Hama Hama from Hood Canal (Crassostrea gigas): The Pacific oyster, originally from Japan

but grown mostly in the Northwest, has a fresh, bright and briny palate with subtle melon on the finish. As the water chemistry, algae and seasons change, so do the oyster flavors. Kumamoto from Yaquina Bay (Crassostrea sikamea): The Kumamoto, grown in the Northwest and originally from Japan, is possibly the most popular oyster because of its approachable size (generally the size of a quarter or 50-cent piece) and subtle creamy, sweet taste. It’s a good choice for a new oyster eater. Look for hints of melon and cucumber with a firm body and creamy texture, and a briny liquor, depending on the rainfall and water chemistry. Belon, from the Belon River in Brittany, France (Ostrea edulis): The European Flat oyster, grown in Europe and occasionally in the Northeast and Northwest United States, was made famous by the oyster farmers at the mouth of the Belon River in Brittany, France. This is a true connoisseur’s oyster, with a biting brininess and sometimes a metallic finish so strong that it’s like sucking on a penny. The meat can have a distinct crunchiness from the firm muscle. Though delicious, this species doesn’t grow well outside of its native waters and is very delicate, which generally rules out shipping. It’s best to plan a trip to France to taste these gems directly from their native waters. Bring on the Belon! Natives from Yaquina Bay (Ostrea conchaphila): The Olympia oyster is the only oyster native to the Pacific Northwest and Northern California. Until recently, these little treats (they’re generally no bigger than a 50-cent piece) weren’t available to the consumer as a result of overconsumption, loss of habitat and pollution. They pack a powerful flavor punch of mushroom and woodiness balanced with sweetness and briny minerally liquor. These natives have a real expression of the coastal byways of the Pacific Northwest, encompassing the trees, fauna, mushrooms and the ocean, absolutely fabulous and a real treat if you can find them because they’re still relatively hard to get a hold of. Yes, it looks like whipped cream, but it makes a little more sense than that — it’s “bacalao foam” made with Spanish salt cod, from Tabla chef Anthony Cafiero.

Cheryl’s look at a big world of bubbles

A common myth about Champagne is that it’s only made from three grapes, but in addition to pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay, there are, in fact, a handful of others that can be used. For instance, the L. Aubry, Le Nombre d’Or Campanae 2003 that we served at our most recent soiree uses four other grapes: fromenteau, pinot blanc, arbanne and petit meslier, all lost varietals from the Champagne region that the Aubry family propagates and uses in their wines. But whatever grapes are used, a very important thing to consider when you’re talking about serving Champagne with food is the level of sweetness. All Champagnes aren’t the same, and while Champagne is sort of the perfect beverage, your food and bubbly pairing won’t be perfect if you don’t pay attention. A big part of what determines a Champagne’s food-pairing personality happens in the final step in production. It’s called the dosage (doe SAZH) and involves adding a bit of wine and sugar to the bottle to make up for the volume of liquid that’s lost after the bottle is disgorged (when frozen dead yeast cells are removed — it’s a very complex process, this Champagne making! Perhaps that’s why it is so good?). How much sugar versus how much wine is added is entirely up to the winemaker. A lot of sugar will help disguise impurities. A dosage of only wine and no sugar results in extremely dry wines that show off the character of terroir that sugar can sometimes mask; these are often labeled “brut nature or “brut zero.” While the dosage may not be explained on the label, it’s important, when pairing Champagne with food, to understand this vast spectrum of flavor. When coupling Champagne with dessert, you may want a slightly sweeter Champagne, whereas a very dry Champagne might be the perfect partner in crime for briny oysters. Technicalities aside, the simple guideline for pairing food and wine is don’t overpower one with the other in terms of sweetness and body. A dry, lighterbodied Champagne would be lost next to a rich, sweet dessert. As would the flavor of a delicate, briny Hama Hama if eaten with a full-bodied, yeasty Champagne or one with a higher level of sweetness. The following are labeling terms you may find on a bottle of Champagne to get a general idea of the sweetness level: Brut Nature or Brut Zero — extremely dry Extra Brut — very dry Brut — dry Extra Sec – off-dry Sec – medium-dry Demi Sec – sweet

Cheryl’s Pairings Briny oysters (European Flats, Hama Hamas, Malpeques) Look for: A dry, crisp, lighter-bodied Champagne with citrus notes. Try: Jérôme Prévost, La Closerie “Les Béguines” Extra Brut NV Creamy or meaty oysters (Kumamotos, Chelsea Gems, Petites) Look for: A Champagne with a bit more body and depth of flavors. Try: Barnaut, Grand Cru Grand Réserve NV Champagne or a crémant (sparkling wine produced in France but outside the Champagne region) Charcuterie Look for: A Brut rosé with a little personality (more than just strawberries!) Try: Marie-Noëlle Ledru, Rosé Grand Cru Brut NV Champagne or Argyle, Brut Rosé or Argyle, Brut Rosé Cheese Look for: A vintage Champagne will have the body and character to complement the stronger flavors of a blue cheese. Think about it — one hangs out with yeast for most of its life and the other with mold. It’s just got to work! Try: Henri Goutorbe, Spécial Club 2002 Rich, triple-cream cheeses Look for: A full-body Champagne with riper fruits Try: Gaston-Chiquet, Blanc de Blancs d’Ay NV Harder cheeses Look for: A Brut Nature Champagne with delicate flavor Try: André Clouet, Silver Brut NV Seared foie gras Look for: Brut or Extra Sec Champagne with lots of body to compete with the richness of the foie gras, and biscuit and toasty notes from aging on lees for a long period of time Try: José Michel & Fils Spécial Club 2002 Sushi or fish Look for: A younger, bright Brut Nature or Brut Champagne that is not overly bready or yeasty Try: Dosnon & Lepage, Récolte Noire NV Champagne Popcorn Try: Any bubbly you want!

A note on desserts:

First make sure the dessert is balanced and not overly sweet (stay away from those sheet cakes loaded with frosting flowers!). Fruit or nutty desserts work best with Champagne. Look for: A Brut Champagne with enough fruitiness, body and character. Try (fruity desserts): René Geoffroy, Rosé de Saignée Brut NV Champagne or A. Margaine, Demi-Sec Try (nutty or chocolate desserts): Vilmart & Cie., Grand Cellier Brut Premier Cru

Tobias tells us how to get the darn things open There are infinite ways to get inside an oyster. You can drop it from the roof, hit it with a rock or pry it open with a screwdriver. But the most effective way to open an oyster is with an oyster knife. The two knives I use most are the white-handled Dexter “clam knife,” a sturdy, slightly thick blade with a good point, or a French import with a shorter, thinner, more flexible blade and a narrow tip and slipproof handle. I also have two methods for opening oysters: The Front Door:

1 Take the oyster and place it on a tri-folded towel, on a flat firm surface with the rounded side of the shell down. Cup the palm of your hand firmly over the oyster, holding it in place, with the lip of the shell pointing slightly up. I like to fold the towel over once more to give a little shelf to lean the oyster on so I can see the seam a little better. 2 Once you find the seam, insert the tip of the

knife and wiggle the knife to pry the oyster apart. As the oyster opens a little, slide the knife along the inside of the top shell toward the back of the oyster and cleanly cut the abductor muscle. As the muscle is cut, continue to pull the top shell off, and discard.

3 Now that the oyster is exposed, take your knife and cut the abductor muscle cleanly from the bottom of the shell by sliding your knife at a slight angle underneath the oyster, using the shell as a guide from front to back. 4 After successfully clearing the oyster from the shell, dress and consume. The Back Door, or Hinge Method

1 Place the oyster on your work surface the same as before but this time point the back, hinged portion of the oyster toward you instead of the lip. 2 Place the tip of your knife in the little crevice where the top shell meets the bottom. 3 Using firm force, twist your knife to pry the hinge open. Be careful at this point because the shell can chip and the knife can slip, thus skewering your hand. Oysters have a tendency to give up all at once, so if you’re putting too much force behind your knife you’ll certainly feel the oyster’s revenge. 4 Now that the hinge is released, run your knife along the top of the shell toward the abductor twisting as you go to pry the shell apart. Cut the top of the abductor muscle from the shell. 5 Move the knife to the bottom and clear the meat from the bottom shell the same way as previously described, and enjoy the fruits de mer of your labor.

Cheryl tells us how to slice off the top of a bottle of bubbly with a sword, er, machete

You’ve never sabered? Mon Dieu! Be prepared because once you start you cannot stop. Sabering, opening a bottle of sparkling wine by breaking the glass that surrounds the cork using a blunt object, is very exhilarating. When you first attempt it you think, “There is no way this will work” but lo and behold, it does! And then you want to do it again, and again, and again … which can get very expensive, but so much fun. The first time I sabered a bottle of bubbly was at the International Pinot Noir Celebration in 2007 and was also when I met Tobias, over an inflatable kiddy pool full of bubbly. I think it was destiny. So, if you want to find your destiny and have some fun, here is how you do it: Chill the bottle well. It’s best to also place the bottle, cork down, in a bucket of ice to chill the top portion that you will be sabering. Remove all of the foil and the cage. Make sure once the cage is removed you keep your hand over the cork until you are ready to saber. Find the glass seam that runs up the length of the bottle from the bottom to the top. Hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle from your body, facing upward. Using the back side of a chef ’s knife, sword or a machete and keeping it flat against the bottle, quickly and confidently slide the knife down the bottle to the neck, following the seam and hitting the lip of the glass top. Follow through! (Pretend you are playing tennis!) Don’t stop the movement when you hit the neck’s lip. Keep moving the knife past the end of the mouth of the bottle. Be careful when handling the bottle’s neck, as it will be extremely sharp. (And by the way, if what happened on page 92 happens to you, don’t blame us.)

The Menu at our Party Oysters on the Half Shell Oysters Bienville Seared Foie Gras on Toast Foie Gras Popcorn (we drizzled the fat rendered from the foie gras while we sautéed it over some freshly popped popcorn, then sprinkled with salt) Charcuterie, of course Assorted cheeses Salmon Rillettes (see recipe) Cauliflower Soup (see recipe) French Macarons, from Pix Pâtisserie Moscato d’Asti Floats (see recipe)

recipes

Salmon Rillettes

Cauliflower Soup

MAkeS 4 CupS, enougH for AbouT 4 dozen CAnApéS

Extra-virgin olive oil

½ pound fresh skinless salmon fillet

4 cloves garlic, chopped

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

2 medium yellow onions, diced

9 tablespoons butter (divided)

2 heads cauliflower, cut into florets

1 shallot, minced

4 cups milk, more as needed

½ cup dry white wine

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

Freshly ground white pepper

¼ pound lox-style smoked salmon

1 whole nutmeg

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Pistachio oil (optional)

Salt and pepper to taste

Set a medium pot over medium-high heat and add olive oil to cover bottom of pan. Add half the garlic and gently sauté, being careful not to brown it. Next, add half of the onion, sauté until soft and fragrant, about 4 minutes, then add the cauliflower. Add enough milk to cover, then sprinkle with salt and white pepper. Bring to a simmer, turn heat to low, and cook until cauliflower begins to fall apart, 12-18 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer to a blender and purée; strain through a fine strainer or sieve.

Freshly grated nutmeg to taste

Sprinkle the salmon with salt. Set aside. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add shallot and cook until shallot is translucent. Add salmon. Reduce heat to medium low, cover and cook until salmon flakes apart. Cool completely. Combine white wine, remaining 8 tablespoons butter, olive oil, smoked salmon, lemon juice and pepper and nutmeg to taste in a food processor along with the cooled salmon and shallots. Process just until the mixture comes together. Adjust seasoning. Serve in small ramekins. — Adapted from Robert Reynolds

In a clean pot, heat a little more olive oil and sauté remaining garlic and onions. Pour in the cauliflower purée and season generously with grated nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Add more milk if the soup seems too thick. Simmer on low, stirring frequently, to reheat and blend the flavors. Serve with a few drops of pistachio oil, if you like.

Moscato d’Asti Float Place two small scoops strawberry sorbet in a wine flute. Slowly top with Moscato d’Asti. Garnish with a strawberry.

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It’s understood that when it

comes to holidays, the food that sustains our bodies needs to be as special as the traditions that sustain our souls.

Still, there’s no rule that says special has to mean stuffy. So we’ve got an idea: This year, get your guests up and out of their chairs and give them a chance to get moving and talking and creating: Give them a sundae bar. Now, we’re not talking about simply setting out a jar of fudge sauce and a can of Reddi-wip. It’s the holidays, so this can’t be a plain-vanilla affair. On the other hand, free time is pretty hard to come by right about now. But if you set your mind to it, it’s not hard to come up with a bunch of easy, inspired ideas to layer onto ice cream. Think bold flavors. Think eye-popping combinations. Think … like a pastry chef. Better yet, ask a pastry chef. We tapped three of the city’s best sugar mavens for their ideas for easy-yet-exciting ice-cream sundae toppings. Not surprisingly, they all came up with ingenious ideas — from herbed nuts to decadent sauces — that will make your guests swoon. With all the fancy-flavored premium ice creams just a grocery store away, don’t even bother dusting off your ice cream maker. Instead, use your time to create crunchy, gooey, salty, sweet toppings that will make your ice-cream sundae bar truly special.

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by danIelle centonI photography by motoya nakamura

Skip the Chunky Monkey. Sundae bars are best with basic ice cream flavors such as chocolate, vanilla and raspberry sorbet. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll please a crowd and work with a variety of toppings.

{

For texture:

kIr jensen owner, the sugar cube

Candy-coated sunflower seeds Crushed candy canes Malted milk powder

Crushed peanut butter pretzels

Chopped candy bars

Candied herbs, such as mint

Crumbled toffee or Almond Roca

Sea salt

Crumbled cookies, from Oreos to shortbread and everything in between Crumbled meringue cookies Fresh fruit (berries, bananas, stone fruits and tropical fruits) Cake-decorating sprinkles Toasted coconut Chopped toasted nuts Diced crystallized ginger Brandied cherries Cheesecake bits

Crumbled sugar-spiced pie crust Brownies or cookies for either crumbling or using as a base for sundaes Sautéed apples or pears Candied or dragée nuts Candied diced roasted squash Candied bacon Candied orange peel (OK, candied anything) Flavored whipped cream (add crème fraîche, mascarpone or chocolate, or steep the cream with coffee beans or whole spices)

If you’ve ever visited The Sugar Cube food cart at the Mississippi Marketplace, you know that irreverence is Kir Jensen’s middle name. From boozy cupcakes to milkshakes blended with Cap’n Crunch, her crave-worthy desserts masterfully combine decadence with fun. So what would she put on ice cream? Potato chips, of course. Or, rather, potato chips mixed with cookies. “I always love the combination of sweet and salt. I had a box of these little cookies that have a really wonderful brown butter, nutty flavor and I also happened to have a bag of Ruffles lying around. I crumbled them both up, combined the two, sprinkled some on top of a bowl of vanilla ice cream and added a big dollop of fresh lemon curd … wow! Cold, creamy ice cream and tart, luscious lemon curd bouncing off crunchy, salty, nutty goodness. Not bad for a few staples hanging around the house.” The Crunchies, as she calls the mix, are incredibly versatile and

Store-bought meringues

have begun showing up at the cart as a garnish to her chocolate caramel cupcakes. So as a component in a sundae bar, they could pretty much stand up to anything. “Basically any flavor would complement the Crunchies,” says Jensen, who is working on a cookbook. “Berries, apples sautéed in butter, ripe pears or figs. They’re an easy, cheap way to wow your friends. You don’t always have to be fancy to be fancy. There are a lot of store-bought staples that with a little creativity can be turned into something special.” Her perfect sundae? “Coffee ice cream drenched with a shot of Kahlúa or espresso, dark chocolate fudge sauce, fresh whipped cream and the Crunchies. It would be a caffeine junkie’s dream.”

lIsa herlInger-esco owner, ruby jewel ice cream If anyone knows what people want with their ice cream, it’s Lisa Herlinger-Esco, who’s been creating seriously good and seriously fun ice cream sandwiches since

Rosemary Spiced Pecans

Candy-coated sunflower seeds

Nubby, briny fleur de sel

Caramel Chocolate Sauce

Snappy gingermolasses cookies Chocolateespresso cookies

Fruity Australian sea salt

Bourbon, Bacon and Pecan Pralines

Sweetened whipped cream

Honey-Vanilla Apples

Fluffy gourmet marshmallows

Candied Coconut

she started Ruby Jewel in 2004. This summer she opened a scoop shop on Mississippi Avenue, where she can dish out even more delicious ideas. “People are into the salt and the savory and sweet in a lot of things,” she says. “Right now we have a sundae with peanut butter ice cream with chocolate chunks, topped with crushed butter-flavor pretzels and caramel sauce.” Like Jensen’s Crunchies, the buttery pretzel bits add a welcome contrast of salty flavor and crunchy texture to the sweet, rich ice cream. But they’re one of the more tame options in Herlinger-Esco’s bag of tricks, which often leans toward fresh herbs. “I’m always eating rosemary pecans before dinner or bringing them to someone’s house,” she says, “and one of my favorite sundaes is the turtle, so I thought, ‘Ooh! Rosemary pecans and caramel!’ ” The savory nuts gave the sundae depth and have become a menu staple, along with the rainbow-bright, candy-coated fennel seeds she uses as sprinkles (in case you want some for your own party, she sells them at the shop). But Herlinger-Esco never stops playing, spiking her menu with

other slightly savory combinations such as bacon-caramel sauce and rosemary pine-nut brittle. When it comes to ice cream toppings, “you can get pretty crazy,” she says excitedly. “You can caramelize different squashes. You can do candied bacon bits, candied basil leaves or mint leaves. It would be fun to have a salt bar at a sundae bar. We have a smoked one that’s good with chocolate. And there’s a pickled plum one that’s really different. You can have so much fun.”

krIsten murray pastry chef, paley’s place For a pastry chef who’s worked with such big names as Marcus Samuelsson, Claudia Fleming and Barbara Lynch, making dessert is as much about creating art as it is about cooking. So it wasn’t that surprising when Kristen Murray’s answer to “What would you have in your own sundae bar?” was a sevencomponent study in contrasting textures, flavors and even colors. “When I’m making a sundae, I always like to think, ‘What are my creams? What are my sauces? What

are my textures?’ ” says Murray, whose path to Paley’s Place was marked by stints at Aquavit in New York and No. 9 Park in Boston. As she pondered each category, she came up with a complex dessert of orange sherbet, cardamom-coffee ice cream, milk chocolate-amaretto ice cream, candied kumquats, dark chocolate caramel sauce, bergamotvanilla meringues, fruit and nut dragées, and coffee marshmallows. It’s inventive, it’s bold, and it’s even inspired by Murray’s childhood. “I get really sentimental around the holidays,” she says. “I was raised by my grandmother and great-aunt and they were both Norwegian, so I tend to do Scandinavian flavors and baking spices. My great-aunt also had a kumquat tree in her backyard, so I always make kumquat preserves.” Though most of us won’t attempt to make the entire sundae at home (though if you want a taste, Murray plans to put it on the menu at Paley’s this month), it’s a lesson in how to think outside the norm. It offers traditional holiday flavors — citrus,

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Cookie and chip “Crunchies”

For pourIng: Cinnamon- or chilespiked fudge sauce Peppermint fudge sauce Malted milk chocolate sauce Spiced caramel sauce Dulce de leche Espresso Lemon curd Marshmallow cream Peanut butter Maple syrup Molasses Berry coulis

{ coffee, baking spices — but pairs them in refreshingly unexpected ways. Even its colors are a welcome break from the usual. “I feel like during holidays, you’re so overloaded with red, having vibrant orange and rich, warm browns offsets it,” she says. And there are simple ways to recreate its varied flavors and textures with store-bought ingredients and shortcuts. “Laloo’s goat’s milk chocolate ice cream is out of this world. And Häagen-Dazs does a beautiful orange sherbet and vanilla swirl,” Murray says. “You can do coffee whipped cream instead of a coffee marshmallow. I’d add a little mascarpone so it’s a little richer and more decadent.” And look to local chocolate shops or gourmet stores for bags of nut dragées and meringue cookies. Whatever shape your sundae bar takes, it’s bound to be a hit. “Sundaes are fun and interactive,” Murray says. “Once we grow up, we have to seize every opportunity to embrace the things that made us laugh or smile as a child — especially during the holidays.”

toppIng recIpes:

crunchIes MAKES 2 CuPS

When making Crunchies, “I just combine them in a bowl and crunch up with my hands,” says Kir Jensen. “But if you have a Cuisinart, that works too. I would just pulse several times to get the proper consistency, but not too fine. The slightly larger pieces help with the crunch.” She’s the first to admit no one really needs a recipe for these, but the 3-to-1 ratio of cookies to chips, and the brands used, do make a difference.

1½ cups crumbled Trader Joe’s Butter Almond Thins ½ cup crumbled Ruffles potato chips Place cookie and chip crumbs in a bowl and toss to combine. — Kir Jensen, The Sugar Cube, Portland

the beauty of a sundae bar? guests don’t have to actually make a sundae if there’s a plate of cookies on hand. they can crumble them up or create an ice cream sandwich such as this one with raspberry sorbet and candied coconut.

honey-vanIlla apples MAKES ABOuT 4 CuPS

Like pie à la mode without the crust, fruit and ice cream go hand-in-hand. Try pairing these luscious apples with Jensen’s Crunchies, fresh whipped cream and cinnamon ice cream.

4 ounces unsalted butter 4 Granny Smith apples, peeled, seeded and cut into ½-inch cubes Heavy pinch sea salt ¼ cup flavorful honey, such as meadowfoam 1 tablespoon vanilla extract or seeds scraped from ½ vanilla bean Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the butter, swirling the pan until it melts. Add apples, salt, honey and vanilla. Sauté until the apples are tender, but still hold their shape, about 10 minutes. Serve warm over ice cream. — Kir Jensen, The Sugar Cube, Portland

rosemary spIced pecans MAKES 3 CuPS

These buttery, toasty, herby nuts are delicious on all types of ice cream. Make a big batch to keep on hand for salads, snacks and gifts.

3 cups pecan halves 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, coarsely chopped ½ -1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ cup packed brown sugar Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Arrange pecans on a rimmed baking sheet and toast until fragrant, about 10 minutes; transfer to a medium bowl. Meanwhile, mix rosemary, cayenne and salt in a small bowl. Melt butter and brown sugar together in a small saucepan set over medium-high heat or in the microwave. Drizzle mixture over nuts and stir to coat well. Sprinkle with rosemary mixture and toss to coat. Allow nuts to cool before serving.

candIed coconut MAKES 6 CuPS

Sure, you can just buy a bag of sweetened coconut and simply toast it, but you won’t save much time and the results won’t compare to the crunchy texture and pure coconut flavor of this recipe.

3 egg whites ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1½ teaspoons vanilla 6 cups unsweetened flaked coconut (one 12-ounce bag) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together egg whites, sugar, salt and vanilla. Gently stir in the coconut. Spread mixture evenly on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 8 minutes. Stir and continue baking until most of the coconut is golden brown, about 10 minutes more. It will crisp as it cools. — Danielle Centoni

bourbon, bacon and pecan pralInes MAKES ABOuT 20

You don’t have to be from New Orleans to fall in love with pralines. They’re sweet and nutty like brittle, but with a silky, melt-in-your mouth texture that’s much easier on your teeth. Spiked with bourbon and studded with smoky, salty bits of bacon, these treats, broken into pieces, make one of the most decadent ice cream toppings.

7 ounces bacon (about 5 strips) 1¼ cups pecan halves 2 cups packed dark brown sugar ¾ cup whipping cream It may look like the usual parlor classic, but this hot fudge sundae gets an update with caramel-laced 72 percent cacao chocolate sauce, sweetened mascarpone whipped cream and a sprinkle of candy-coated sunflower seeds for a burst of nutty flavor and bright color.

hot buttered rum sauce MAKES ABOuT 2 CuPS

Winter is prime time for steaming mugs of boozy goodness such as Hot Buttered Rum, which inspired this easy-to-make sauce. Essentially butterscotch with a kick, it goes with almost anything.

1½ cups packed brown sugar 2 tablespoons light corn syrup 6 tablespoons unsalted butter ¾ cup whipping cream ¾ teaspoon kosher salt 6 tablespoons dark rum (divided) Combine brown sugar, corn syrup, butter, cream and salt in a medium saucepan. Set over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes, add 3 tablespoons of the rum and continue simmering for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons rum. Remove from heat and serve. — Danielle Centoni

2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons bourbon Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place bacon in the freezer to firm up, about 10 minutes. Place pecans on a rimmed baking sheet and toast until fragrant, about 10 minutes. Cut each pecan in quarters crosswise or very coarsely chop into large pieces. Cut chilled bacon strips lengthwise and crosswise into ¼-inch dice. Heat a medium frying pan over medium-high heat. Add bacon and cook until fat renders and bacon is crisp, about 10 minutes. use a slotted spoon to transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat. Place brown sugar and cream in a deep, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Set over medium-high heat and cook until mixture registers 240 degrees on a candy thermometer. Remove from heat and stir in the butter, the 1 tablespoon bacon fat, salt, bourbon, pecans and bacon. use a sturdy wooden spoon to vigorously stir the mixture for about 2 minutes, until it lightens in color and starts to thicken. Drop tablespoonsize dollops of the mixture onto parchment or Silpat-lined baking sheets. Allow to cool completely before serving as-is or breaking into pieces and sprinkling on ice cream. — Danielle Centoni

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{ toppIng recIpes/cont:

caramel chocolate sauce

candIed kumquats

MAKES ABOuT 3 CuPS

MAKES ABOuT 8 CuPS

A decadent dose of dark chocolate makes rich, salted caramel sauce swoonworthy. Be sure to have all your ingredients ready before you begin cooking, so you don’t end up burning the caramel.

Pastry chef Kristen Murray grew up picking kumquats in her Great-Aunt Crys’ backyard and turning them into this bright, citrusy sauce. “She called it Candied Kumquats, though the recipe is more of a kumquat confiture because the fruit is being candied in its own syrup,” says Murray. “Allowing the mixture to stand for about 24 hours before cooking decreases the cooking time, preserving the bright flavor of the kumquats.”

1 cup granulated sugar 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter 2 cups whipping cream, warmed 8 ounces 72 percent cacao dark chocolate, finely chopped 1½ teaspoons fleur de sel (or other coarse sea salt) Place sugar in a deep, heavy-bottomed saucepan and set over high heat. Cook, stirring gently to help the sugar melt and to promote even browning, until sugar is hazelnut in color (keep a close eye, as the sugar can burn easily). Slowly stir in the butter and cream (warming the cream lessens the violent effect of introducing liquid into the caramel). Continue heating until mixture becomes smooth and the caramel has melted; strain. Place chocolate in a mixing bowl. Whisk caramel mixture into the chocolate and add the fleur de sel. — Kristen Murray, Paley’s Place

monochromatic and elegant, this deceptively simplelooking sundae combines a few highly flavorful components for maximum flavor impact: coffee ice cream, rum-spiked caramel sauce, buttery honeyvanilla apples and a single rosemary spiced pecan.

4 pounds, 6 ounces kumquats, sliced ¼-inch thick, seeds removed 6½ cups sugar Juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon salt Place all the ingredients in a large pot. use your hands to gently toss to combine (take care not to break up the kumquats). Set the pot over medium-high heat until mixture reaches 170 degrees. Remove from the heat, pour into a shallow pan and place a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap over the surface like a skin. Refrigerate overnight. The next day, return the mixture to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring gently, for about 30 to 40 minutes or until kumquats turn translucent. At this point, the natural pectin should be released and the mixture will have jelled and achieved a syrupy consistency. Refrigerate or ladle into jars and process in a water canner for 10 minutes. — Kristen Murray, Paley’s Place £

Vocalist susannah Mars, Anne Mueller, Adrian Fry, Javier Ubell, Christopher stowell and pianist richard Bower. Photo by Andy Batt.

Holly Tolbert and Andrea Cooper in George Balanchineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Nutcracker. Photo by Blaine Truitt Covert.

DecemBer 11 - 18, 2010 keller auDitorium

DecemBer 11 - 24, 2010 keller auDitorium

PresenTing sPonsor

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Shaffer Fine Art Gallery wishes you a

HAPPY HOLIDAYS Browse our collection and give the gift of art...one that is sure to leave a lasting impression!

“O What a Night” 36 X 48 Original oil on canvas by Thomas Arvid. Also available as a 30 X 42 limited edition on canvas

“Window with a View” 43 X 24 metal wall sculpture by Donnie Wanner

Meet the Artist Donnie Wanner

Join us for this Holiday Show Saturday, December 4th 5pm-9pm RSVP 503-295-4979

Portland’s Premier Fine Art Gallery

“Italian Rain” by Michael Flohr 36 X 48 embellished limited edition on canvas

representing regional and world-renowned artists 308 SW First Ave. Portland, Oregon 503-295-4979 or 1-877-844-3447 www.ShafferFineArt.com

www.ShafferFineArt.com

Fearless Fare

Get away from the usual holiday grind: Surprise your guests with a homemade terrine By jenn louiS Photographs by roSS william hamilton

i 64

SPend moSt oF my day in the kitchen, which is why when it comes to having friends and family over for the holidays, the last thing my husband, david, and i want is a menu that ties me to the stove and keeps me away from our guests. cue the terrine, a perfect holiday dish that’s hearty, packed with flavor and, perhaps most important, prepared ahead. First, consider this: a home-baked terrine is that proverbial shot across the bow, telling your guests, “hey, i’m fearless in the kitchen. yes, we all know how to make pasta or a dip, but i made a terrine! i could have bought one, but no, i ground, seasoned and baked it myself !” making a terrine is a small act of culinary showmanship, but fundamentally, it’s more about satisfaction than it is about flaunting. after all, a terrine is all about that warm, earthy, simple aesthetic. next, consider that terrines are versatile and can be served in a variety of formats: thick slabs served with sharp dijon mustard and a variety of pickles, or warm slices topped with melted gruyère between two pieces of toasted bread. once you’ve made your terrine, you’ll find all sorts of delicious ways to serve it, and because a terrine lasts for days in the fridge (as long as you don’t eat it), you can work it into more than one holiday meal. you might not think of a terrine as being seasonal because it’s mostly meat, but in fact a terrine is a perfect showcase for seasonal ingredients — chanterelles in the summer, and sage and hazelnuts in the winter. the ingredients are countless, but always remember that the key to a good terrine is balance. it’s important to ensure that no ingredient outshines any other. when considering what to include in your terrine, always strive for a harmonious and balanced palate. lastly, as david points out, terrines are perfect for a holiday party menu: they pair well with festive cocktails such as an old-fashioned or a whiskey smash, and they are hearty enough to allow that second or third drink as well.

Three terrine tips to remember — plus eternal advice making a terrine intimidates a lot of home cooks, but if you follow a recipe closely and consider a few crucial tricks, it’s actually quite approachable. the first thing to consider is that if you are grinding your own meat, make sure it’s cold; it makes grinding much easier and more consistent. Second, always use a terrine mold, a heavy rectangular baking dish. it is a worthwhile investment that helps the terrine stay insulated while keeping its shape as it cooks. and third, when you cook, always use a water bath (also called a bain marie), which helps in keeping a consistent temperature, assuring that your terrine will cook evenly. and most important, as with everything you cook, if you start with good quality ingredients, you’ll end up with good quality results.

Jenn Louis, chef owner of Lincoln, looks so relaxed because she knows about do-ahead entertaining. Her savvy as a caterer taught her that serving a high-impact appetizer like a homemade terrine is a terrific way to start a party.

jenn louis’ Seasonal terrine Makes 1 Large terrine, serves 8 to 10

1 tablespoon black peppercorns 3 whole cloves 2 bay leaves 3 pounds finely ground pork shoulder ½ pound pancetta, tesa or bacon, finely ground (see note) 1½ tablespoons salt 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, roughly chopped ¼ cup chopped parsley 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 66

2 pounds thinly sliced bacon (do not substitute thick-cut)

Finely grind the peppercorns, cloves and bay leaves in a spice grinder. Put the ground pork, ground pancetta, salt, ground pepper mixture and thyme into a large bowl and gently mix by hand until all the seasonings are well distributed, but work with a light touch so you don’t overwork the mixture. cover and refrigerate overnight. the following day, add the fresh parsley and garlic and mix gently by hand, again taking care not to overmix. (if you’re using one of the option B additions, mix those ingredients in at this stage.) heat a small skillet, add a touch of olive oil, and fry a small bit of mixture to taste seasoning; adjust if needed.

line a 2-by-14-inch terrine mold with sliced bacon, pressing the center of each strip to the bottom center of mold. Bacon should have a few inches hanging over on each side. Gently pack in pork mixture to fill the mold halfway up. if you’re using an internal garnish, distribute it down the center of the mold, avoiding the sides. top with remaining sausage mixture. wrap the bacon around the filling to encase it. (depending on the dimensions of your mold, you may have a bit of filling left over; you can cook it like breakfast sausage.)

until the terrine reaches 140 degrees in the center: check the temperature with an instant-read thermometer after 45 minutes of cooking, then return to oven and continue cooking for another 15 minutes. check the temperature every 5 minutes thereafter or until terrine reaches designated temperature. do not cover.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place terrine mold in a large, deep-sided pan. Pour water into the pan around the mold, taking care to avoid spilling on the terrine itself. Bake in water bath

Note: to grind pancetta, cut it into 1-inch pieces and freeze until firm. Pulse in a food processor until finely ground.

remove from water bath and allow the terrine to cool at room temperature for 2 hours. refrigerate to store. Serve cold or at room temperature with accompaniments.

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internal garnish options

(added halfway through filling mold) fresh chanterelles: Sauté 5 ounces of sliced chanterelle mushrooms in about 1 tablespoon olive oil with 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary; season well with salt and pepper. Dried porcinis and fresh sage: Soak 2 ounces of dried porcini mushrooms in hot water. drain liquid and sauté the porcinis in about 1 tablespoon olive oil with 1 chopped clove of garlic, 1 thinly sliced shallot and 3 julienned sage leaves. Season with salt and pepper.

option B additions

(mixed directly into pork mixture along with the fresh parsley and garlic) Dried cherry and hazelnut: roughly chop ¼ cup dried cherries, ¼ cup toasted hazelnuts and the leaves from 2 sprigs fresh thyme (discard the stem). mix well and incorporate into pork mixture. Raisin and pine nut: roughly chop ¼ cup sultanas (or golden raisins) and ¼ cup toasted pine nuts. mix well and incorporate into pork mixture.

What’s that lacy stuff?

many traditional French terrines are wrapped in “crepinette,” or caul fat, which is a layer of lacy fat that surrounds the stomach of a pig. it helps to hold the mixture together and prevents it from sticking to the terrine mold, and as it cooks, it sort of melts away so you don’t get a big mouthful when you eat the terrine. the shape of crepinette is freeform, so you have to patch and piece it to fit your mold. check with a specialty butcher to see about ordering it.

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United Way of the Columbia-Willamette

www.unitedway-pdx.org

RALEIGH HILLS: Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. 1

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Snow Owl Designs

For over 40 years, Snow Owl Designs has been serving the jewelry needs of its clientele. Snow Owl Designs specializes in custom jewelry design, repairs, appraisals, diamonds, fabulous color gems & pearls along with general jewelry or gem advice. We’re always here to help. We carry one of the most unique & varied gem collections on the west coast and with our long experience have the knowledge to ﬁnd almost anything you may desire. We look forward to making your visit a great one. 8116 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.292.8212

Warm Mediterranean Atmosphere

With 7000 Sq Ft & 35+ quality dealers Robin & Wren is the westside’s newest antique shopping destination. We have a huge variety of vintage treasures. Paintings of many genres, lovely vintage clothing & accessories, shabby & elegant furniture, art pottery, collectibles & decor of all kinds. Our gift area stocks items from Caldrea, MOR, Voluspa, Aquiesse, Lilly Pulitzer, Claus Porto, ICU Eyewear, Harney & Sons Tea and more.

Mole Hole Studio

This year’s Saturn ornament with moon and star, for $23, and planetary key chain, for $6, are perfect out of this world gifts for the holidays. Fun, funky, and sparkly, the handmade star-struck ornament and keychain are from Green Mountain Glass in Massachusetts.

Three generations of Italian family dining expertise and tradition combine to give you the ﬁnest experience possible. Ernesto’s menu features traditional Italian favorites from our collection of family recipes as well as newer items. Our dining area is perfect for a special night for two or a family gathering. With a full bar, beautiful banquet rooms, delicious lunch buffet, a kids menu, complete catering services and to-go menus, you are certain to ﬁnd something to please everyone.

Hours: Mon-Sat, 11:00-6:00 6800 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.505.9617 www.robinandwrenantiques.com

8136 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.799-2936 www.moleholestudio.com

son Ole

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8544 SW Apple Way (East of Jesuit H.S. off Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy.) 503.292.0119 www.ernestositalian.com 6

Restaurant & Lounge

Maggie’s Boutique A lustrous jacket textured with raised geometric appliques is perfect for a holiday party. Bell sleeves and a raised, pleated collar add to the dramatic silhouette. In plum or green. $132. 4816 SW Scholls Ferry Rd Portland, OR 97225 503.297.1609 www.maggiesboutique.com

Join us at the Golden Crown of China Restaurant & Lounge for fresh, delicious Cantonese and Mandarin specialties, graciously served in beautiful surroundings. We are open for lunch and dinner and offer banquet facilities for up to 80 guests. Enjoy the ambience of our elegant dining rooms, or order from the extensive menu for carry-out. We can even provide private dining and party rooms for your special event! Our fullylicensed cocktail lounge features the fun of karaoke as well as a friendly and knowledgeable wait staff. The restaurant has been family owned and operated for 25 years. We hope to see you soon! 10655 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.626.7959 www.goldencrownrestaurant.com

The Human Bean Gift cards are a great way to show your appreciation or treat someone special! Stop by The Human Bean for award-winning coffee, espresso, fruit smoothies, granita, tea and much more! Three convenient locations to serve you! 8355 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.505.9617 www.thehumanbean.com Also at: 2355 E. Baseline, Cornelius 998 SE Oak Street, Hillsboro

Beaverton Hillsdale Marketplace

Penelope’s Hope Chest Collectible holiday ﬁgurines from folk artist Lori Mitchell. Each ﬁgurine is hand-sculpted and painted with meticulous quality. Penelope’s has the best selection at remarkable values. Stop in to see our large display of holiday decorations. Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11am-5pm 4808 SW Scholls Ferry Road Portland, OR 97225 503.203.2533 www.facebook.com/penelopeshopechest

To advertise in Marketplace contact Sharon Fleming at 503.221.8263 or sharonf@sales.oregonian.com

selects / cava

[ Take an affordable trip into the effervescent world of Spanish cavas ]

BY Katherine Cole / photograph BY motoYa naKamura

hampagne tastes on a beer budget? You can bet your bottom dollar that we understand your plight. So let’s dispense with the platitudes and go straight to the wine word du jour (oops): cava. We recently popped the corks on 28 bagged bottles of cava and blind-tasted our way through a barrage of bubbles. We’ve found four bargains for you to celebrate with this holiday season, and we’ve developed a whole new respect for Champagne’s low-rent Spanish cousin. Because it turns out that cava can be nearly as tasty as Champagne, at less than half the price.

Jacquelines’

FOUND & FABULOUS

distinctive, elegant décor for home & garden

selects / cava cont.

7763 SW Capitol Hwy ~ 503.244.1560

In the Heart of Multnomah Village

Spice Road Mead

Oak. Pepper. Saffron. Vanilla.

Unlike anything else you’ve ever tasted.

YAMHILL 70

OREGON

503.730.7535 www.kookoolanfarms.com

paneliStS

CAVA CHARACTER

randy goodman owner, Bar avignon, baravignon.com

While we love a clean and crisp prosecco from italy, that tank-fermented sparkling wine just doesn’t have the yeasty, creamy character of Champagne. Cava from Spain is a closer approximation, because it’s bottle-fermented and bottle-aged in the same manner as Champagne. We’ve written in the past about crémants from France, another low-budget alternative to Champers, also made according to the méthode traditionnelle. But our fave crémants tend to stake out the $20-to-$25 territory. after our recent tasting, we’ve decided that cava can deliver similar quality for $5 to $10 less. low price doesn’t necessarily make for a sacrifice in quality in this sector. as long as you’re willing to spend about $15, “you don’t have to apologize for these,” noted a satisfied martha holmberg. and we even found some wines we liked for less than $10. “i would drink Champagne every evening if i could afford it,” admitted mimi martin. “For me, these cavas are a good alternative for everyday sipping.”

ted Farthing Beverage marketing Consultant, tedfarthing.com mimi martin Co-owner, the Wine and Spirit archive educational center, wineandspiritarchive. com martha holmberg editor-in-chief, miX magazine grant Butler Critic-at-large, the oregonian & miX Katherine Cole Wine columnist, the oregonian & miX

POPPING THE PRICE BUBBLE

A Heavenly Experience www.divineyogurt.com 503-427-2361 15723 SE Happy Valley Town Center Dr, Happy Valley, OR 97086

Yes, so, oK, there were some duds at the low end — who wouldn’t expect the sub-$10 category to include a few? and, sure, we did hit a bit of a dead zone in the $15-to-$20 range, in which the wines were good, but not so much better than the $10-to-$15 sector that we’d be willing to shell out $5 more for them.

But the baseline of consistent quality was encouraging. although it wasn’t one of our winners, for example, the basic Freixenet “Cordon negro” Brut Cava that’s ubiquitous in supermarkets for about 10 bucks — you know, the one in the black bottle — made it to our final round of re-tasting (we liked its creaminess and spiciness). and we’re a bunch of wine snobs! Searching deep into our snobby souls to explain our admiration for these wines, some of us surmised that our fave producers had been introducing more classic Champagne grapes such as chardonnay and pinot noir to their blends. But further research indicated that this was not so for our tasty winners, which consisted primarily of the traditional Spanish varietals macabeo, parellada and xarel-lo. Don’t worry: You don’t have to remember those grape names for the quiz after class. martin thought that these indigenous grape varieties might have been responsible for some of the “earthy, rubbery” aromas we detected in the cheapest cavas, but it’s likely that these faults were more a product of process than of raw material. Some cava producers keep costs down by maximizing their crop loads (that is, harvesting for quantity rather than quality), and this is evident in the less-nuanced flavors of the less-expensive bottlings. the acids in these cavas tended to be softer, the flavors more rustic than what one would find in a Champagne.

ArtBa r & bistro

drinks | appetizers | full menu | desserts

try our new specialty cocktails & food menu! portland center for the performing arts PERPLEXING, EFFERVESCING But at the highest end, we found some striking competition for Champagne. Case in point: the symphonic complexity of the 2005 huguet gran reserva Brut nature Cava, produced by the Can Feixes bodega in the alt penedes highlands of northeastern Spain. i found it exotic and enticing, with notes of jasmine and tropical spice. randy goodman described it as “oxidative, yeasty and fat — all characteristics you’d find in an aged Champagne.” alas, at $30, this vintage wine is only a great bargain if you can afford it. Slightly less pricey were the 2006 gramona gran Cuvée and the nV Segura Viudas Brut reserva heredad, but at $23 and $24, they just didn’t sway us when we considered that we could spend $15 to achieve nearly similar bliss. and anyway, the oversized, anvil-heavy Segura Viudas bottle came trapped in an “absurd” (per martin) pewter base worthy of “the Spanish inquisition” (thank you, grant Butler). We shudder to think of the un-recyclability of such a monstrosity. another shade of cava that perplexes us: the pink. We

tasted a number of identity-crisis wines that were tannic, rich and reddish, as though they had spent too much time on the skins — that is, macerated too long. if we want a sparkling red, we reach for the frizzante gems of lambrusco from north-central italy. We didn’t like the “red wine plus 7-up” (a martha holmberg-ism) style that we kept finding in the “rosado” cavas. there was a blossom among so many thorns: the gift that is Cristalino rosé (soon to be called something else; for more on this, see below). this wine is pink, not too red, and it knows its place. it doesn’t try to impress with depth and tannin; it simply simpers, with light notes of fruit and flowers. We had all tasted it previously, and ted Farthing even identified it blind. “this could stand up to rich holiday foods and cut through heavily glazed ham,” remarked an impressed Butler. “it would appeal to the goth twentysomething as well as grandma.” and at $8.50, it’s something that goth and grandma alike can afford to buy. now that’s something to celebrate this holiday season. apologies for that last platitude. i’m going to go sip some cava now.

1111 sw broadway (at main) • 503.432.2905 open for most pcpa events

•

please call to confirm

~visit www.pcpa.com for a calendar of events~

SE 16th Ave

Sellwood neighborhood

SE Bybee

Blvd

SE Rural St

Farmhouse Antiques

Sellwood’s favorite mini-mall with great gifts for all! - Vintage jewelry - Hats - Furniture - Cast Iron - Glassware - Pottery - Post Cards - Holiday decor – And more! Always buying - 7 dealers. Open daily 11-5.

SE Knapp St

SE 13th Ave

o wo

ell ES

SE Rex St

SE Malden St SE Bidwell St

Madison Park Antiques

SE Milwaukie Ave

lvd dB

Well-chosen antiques, art and curiosities 7805 SE 13th Avenue 503.233.3731

8028 SE 13th Avenue 503.232-6757 4

SE Lambert St 3

SE Lexington St 10

▲ N CoCo Gets Dressed

SE Miller St

SE Tacoma St 1

European style Holiday gifts for all the ladies on your list! Stocking stuffers, fragrances, candles, paper and ribbon, decor, ornaments and much more. Come see our new location right next door to our sister store, CoCo Gets Dressed. Still the same charming shop with many treasures straight from the streets of Paris. Come see us at our new fabulous home!

SE Spokane St

SE Harney St

SE 17th Ave

2 8

7011 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.5999

Bags and jewelry to send you over the top! We’re now featuring jewelry from Portland artist Katy Kippen, designer for grayling jewelry. Fashions of the season in rich colors, grays, blacks, and whites along with new scarves and jackets. Plus HOBO handbags, wallets and clutches reside here too! We’re not teasing when we say, “CoCo Gets Dressed has clothing that tickles the soul”. 7007 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.7777

Cravin’ Raven Enriching Sellwood’s status as a healthy-living hub is Cravin’ Raven Organic Bakery, the place that proves you don’t have to use white ﬂour, white sugar, or butter to make delectable treats. Try our healthy and delicious assortment of mufﬁns, cookies, cakes, and assorted treats, all organic and sweetened with agave nectar. Specializing in Gluten-free options. Catering Available. 8339 SE 13th Avenue 503-234-0603 www.cravinraven.com

Interior/Furniture design studio, specializing in custom, locally-made furniture that ﬁts your home and style.

Now open in Sellwood! Framed Art Studios is: - an independent local shop - full of unique and crazy fun designs - committed to making you smile - a must on your list of to-do’s!

Blending periods of design from Rococo to Industrial creating the aesthetic you desire.

We offer custom picture framing, local art, antiques, and photo-restoration.

8236 SE 17th Avenue Portland, OR 97202 503.236.3077

8237 SE 17th Avenue 503.493.2880 www.framedartstudios.com

Newly Modern

Sellwood Marketplace

Serving all those seeking a better life with their dogs and cats. We strive to provide your dog with natural food, outdoor wear, toys, treats, beds. Find surprises at every turn for both you and your dog. Hours: Mon – Fri 9am – 7pm, Sat 9am – 6pm, Sun 11am – 5pm 8334 SE 17th Avenue 503.239.1517 www.sellwooddogsupply.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Jeff Brosy at 503.221.8320 or jeffb@sales.oregonian.com

selects / cava cont. Moreland Vision Source

the Winning WineS CaVa For a CaSt oF thouSanDS

Come check out our exclusive optical gallery featuring hand-painted stain glass eyewear from Studio3 Occhiali Eyewear imported from Italy. We also carry famous designer eyewear such as Gucci, Liz Claiborne, Silhouette, Prodesign, Lafont, Calvin Klien and Sean John, just to name a few. Stop by and check us out!

NV Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava ($8.50) mega-cava producer Segura Viudas beat out the bargain-basement competitors in winning our prize for the best cheap cork to pop for a party. Sure, it “lacks fruit,” as goodman pointed out, but martin felt that its faults could be masked by some cocktail mixers: some fruit purée, say, or a sugar cube and a splash of bitters. Bottom line: We wouldn’t fault a fete-thrower who chose to buy this innocuous bottle by the case.

6539 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.6008 www.visionsource-moreland.com

at thiS priCe, eVerYthing’S Coming up roSeS

Finds Old & New Finds Old & New offers a charming blend of old, very old, and not so old, treasures. Specializing in: • Vintage & artisan jewelry • Asian antiques • Furniture • Unique & eclectic ﬁnds We buy and welcome consignments. Open Tuesday to Sunday 7907 SE 13th Avenue 503.235.0892

NV Cristalino Rosé Brut Cava ($8.50) With its notes of “ripe dried fruit, cherry, strawberry, cranberry, pie cherry and rhubarb,” as goodman noted, this rosé is a steal. unfortunately, the maker of Cristal Champagne, louis roederer, has successfully sued Cristalino for, er, stealing the look of its gold-foil label, typeface and name. Because consumers might confuse this supermarket standby with a $500 bottle of Cristal rosé. (in the future, look for this bottle labeled “Jaume Serra,” with the word “Cristalino” in a smaller font.) no matter: a nice juicy lawsuit always makes for good dinnerparty small talk. as holmberg put it, “it’s a conversation-starter and it’s festive!”

CeleBratorY Slumming

NV Oriol Rossell Brut Nature Cava ($14.50) Wine geeks will recognize the term “brut nature,” which means that no sugar was added to the bottle after primary fermentation — an unusual feat in a realm in which many sparkling wines would be unpleasantly tart without a “dosage” of added sweetness. it’s a signal that this is a carefully made bubbly. Further investigation into the story of oriol rossell reveals that it’s a centuries-old, family owned estate, where the “riddling,” or turning of the bottles to collect the lees, is done by hand rather than machine. as Farthing noted, the nose was elegant and yeasty, the texture refined, the palate crisp and floral with a touch of grapefruit: “this would be the ideal bubbly for Spanish aristocrats who’ve spent all their money,” he concluded. hand me my pocket watch, my good man: is it cava-o’clock yet?

Don’t minD the DuSt; i JuSt pulleD thiS out oF mY Cellar

NV Avinyó Brut Reserva Cava ($16.50) our highest-end pick redeemed itself in our bargain-hunting eyes as soon as we pulled off the paper bag to reveal the label, stamped with a family crest and bearing a confounding statement in Catalan calligraphy (my best stab at a translation: “an accomplished artisanal work, made from juice with dedication and rigor”). the point being: like distressed denim, it looks far older than it is. according to the winery’s website, the ancient avinyó seat includes a castle built in a.D. 990, with evidence of vineyards dating to at least the 16th century. martin got a taste of the history behind this family-run venture when she declared that, “that autolytic character (yeasty quality) i’m looking for is there — this wine truly tastes like it was bottle-fermented.” Drape a cobweb over the top of the bottle to make the most dramatic entrance with it; and, as Farthing advises, serve it alongside your Christmas goose.

The

Warmth of Giving

selects / spanish cava cont. Where to BuY CaVa For a CaSt oF thouSanDS NV Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava ($8.50) any Fred meyer any haggen any QFC

at thiS priCe, eVerYthing’S Coming up roSeS NV Cristalino Rosé Brut Cava ($8.50)

Sherrie’s Jewelry Box

12425 SW Main St • Tigard, OR 97223 503-598-0144 • www.sherriesjewelrybox.com

1.6ct. Fine Bur ma Ruby, .56 Total Accent Diamonds, Custom 18k Ring

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Whole Foods market Bridgeport, hillsboro, hollywood, laurelhurst, pearl Zupan’s Belmont, macadam or ask your wine merchant to order it from grape expectations

CeleBratorY Slumming NV Oriol Rossell Brut Nature Cava ($14.50) City market great Wine Buys hawthorne pastaworks mississippi Strohecker’s

Don’t minD the DuSt; i JuSt pulleD thiS out oF mY Cellar NV Avinyó Brut Reserva Cava ($16.50) Cutsforth’s thriftway new Seasons market arbor lodge, happy Valley and raleigh hills any pastaworks QFC mt. tabor renaissance premium Wines & Cigars Whole Foods market Bridgeport, hollywood and pearl World Class Wines Zupan’s Burnside

by tAmi PArr / PhOtOgrAPh by beth nAkAmurA

good cheese

[ Don Froylan Queso Oaxaca, Ochoa Cheese Factory, Albany, Oregon ] NAME: Don Froylan Queso Oaxaca MILK: Pasteurized cow’s milk from Lochmead Dairy in Junction City AGE AND LOOK: A lightly aged mozzarella-style cheese that’s sold in a cool-looking one-pound ball of gathered strips FLAVOR: Creamy dairy goodness with a hint of tang DRINK WITH: A good reposado tequila, of course! WHY WE LIKE THIS CHEESE: We’re not the only ones who like it — this cheese took second place in its category at the 2010 American Cheese Society competition in Seattle.

you may be familiar with queso fresco and cotija, two cheese workhorses of mexican cuisine. you’ve probably even had them (whether or not you noticed) on your tacos or enchiladas the last time you went out for mexican food. What you might not realize is that these cheeses may have been made by a local producer. Ochoa Cheese Factory has quietly been making Latino-style cheeses under the Don Froylan brand for the past seven years, first in eugene and now in Albany. Cheesemaker Francisco Ochoa started out making the culinary staple queso fresco and more recently branched out into making additional styles such as cotija (an aged cheese), panela and queso Oaxaca. the brand name is a tribute to Francisco’s father, Froylan Ochoa Vargas, who made cheese at home for

his family but always dreamed of owning a cheese factory. though he has since passed away, his son Francisco carries on the family cheesemaking tradition. i’m currently fancying Ochoa’s Queso Oaxaca. this cheese’s name reflects its origins in the state of Oaxaca in mexico, where it can be found in the region’s many openair food markets. Like mozzarella, queso Oaxaca is a pasta filata cheese, a term of art used to describe cheeses that are pulled and stretched during the making process, giving them a unique stringy texture. Francisco

Ochoa makes queso Oaxaca in the traditional manner, by heating and stretching the cheese and rolling the ribbons into a small ball, creating a striking visual presentation. Don Froylan Queso Oaxaca is tasty right out of the package; just peel off the strips and eat at your leisure. it’s sweet and milky with a little more complexity than your average commercially produced string cheese. but i think it’s best when fulfilling its destiny as a melting cheese — use it in quesadillas or make queso fundido (melted cheese combined with chiles and herbs). Serve with fresh tortillas and you’re good to go. Note: Stop by the factory at 815 First Ave. e. in Albany, where you can buy all of Ochoa Cheese Factory’s cheeses as well as take a peek inside the cheese room. £ 75

Nob Hill neighborhood sid e

Bu rn

2 NW 24th Ave

d rR

ove est W W

Ave

Child’s Play Looking for a gift that is unique and exciting? Come to Child’s Play! The Hoberman Sphere is just one of the thousands of extraordinary toys on our shelves. We can help you ﬁnd the perfect present for a child of any age. Find us on Facebook by searching “Child’s Play Toy Store”! 2305 NW Kearney St Portland, OR 503.224.5586 www.childsplayportland.com

Serratto Celebrate the Holidays with us! Gift Certiﬁcates available. Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour Seven days a week. Parking in our lot on NW Johnson St. 2112 NW Kearney St. Portland OR 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com

Food Front

Nob Hill Marketplace

2075 NW Glisan Street Portland, OR (near the corner of NW 21st and Glisan) 503.222.1056 www.popehouselounge.com

NW Vaughn St

8 NW 21st

Nature’s Pet Market offers Natural food for dogs and cats at affordable prices. We have a large selection of raw diets for dogs and cats, food, toys and treats for small animals. Take advantage of our frequent buyer program on all our dry food! Find your new companion! We house ready-toadopt cats from the Columbia Humane Society. This month only, if you spend over $30 you will get a 10% discount coupon for next time you are in. 111 NW 21st Ave Portland, OR 503.360.1244 www.naturespetmarket.com

• Fine bourbon • Classic cocktails • Southern Cuisine

NW Quimby St

1211 NW 23rd Ave Portland, OR www.ausalon.com

NW Northrup St

503.228.8363 Mention this ad and receive 10% off your service before Feb. 2011.

Au Salon

To set an appointment please call

Ave

Au Salon is a full-service Bumble and Bumble hair salon. We have been providing customized hair care in the Nob Hill neighborhood since 1996. We pride ourselves in educating our clients and providing a comfortable family atmosphere. We are now open 7 days a week!

NW Kearney St

1902 NW 24th Ave Portland OR 503-208-2758 www.saltﬁreandtime.com

NW 22nd

NW Irving St

Salt, Fire & Time is a Community Supported Kitchen that organizes a weekly pick up of prepared foods sourced locally. We also offer cooking classes and Friday night dinners open to the public. We focus exclusively on nutrient dense, organic foods that help restore your health and our own northwest food heritage. Also available for private parties and catering. Mention MIX and get a free fermented soda!

Ave

Salt, Fire & Time

NW Hoyt St

NW Glisan St

NW Davis St

2281 NW Hoyt St Portland, OR 97210 (corner of 23rd and Hoyt) 503-222-5463

NW 22nd Place

NW Everett St

Our unique shop offers the ﬁnest hand-painted European stoneware from Ceramika Artystyczna that is microwave, dishwasher and ovensafe. We also carry linens, antiques and gifts. We welcome your visit and are open everyday between 11am6pm. www.polishpotteryplace.com

NW 23rd

NW Thurman St

NW Pettygrove St

Hand Crafted Stoneware

Food Front is NW Portland’s freshest source for local and natural foods including organic produce; ﬁne wines; artisan breads & cheeses; fresh, local meats; and fair trade coffee and chocolate. Whether you’re looking for daily essentials or delightful indulgences, you’ll ﬁnd it at Food Front, naturally. Open 8am-9pm Daily

Urban Fondue Serving a unique dining experience featuring scratch recipe fondues made with local ingredients. Open 7 nights a week 2114 NW Glisan St (next to Bartini) Portland, OR Reservations: 503-242-1400 or www.urbanfondue.com

2375 NW Thurman St. Portland, OR 503.222.5658 www.foodfront.coop

To advertise in Marketplace contact Lindsay Grant at 503.221.8352 or lindsayg@sales.oregonian.com

eat here/sayulita, mexico

couldn’t wait to get back to Sayulita. Our cloudy skies, rainy days and slick sidewalks were getting me down. Add to that a long stretch of winter menus and I was ready to fly south of the border to this small coastal village, known for its warm days; fresh fruit and seafood; townspeople who make you feel welcome; a beach made for kids with sand pails;

margaritas at sunset; and the kind of waves that surfers adore. Add great street food and cafes; good accommodations and fun shopping — all at affordable prices — and you’ll understand why Oregonians keep returning to this Mexican town an hour north of Puerto Vallarta. Sayulita is a walkable town whose main, one-way cobblestone street circles

by SArA Perry PhOtOS by Pete Perry

eat here / sayulita cont.

churros vendor

el espresso 78

rollie’s a central plaza. It’s where tourists, locals and expatriates gather. It’s where huichol Indian artists come each day to sell their crafts; where Mexican couples sell their fragrant tacos, rice puddings and cinnamonlaced churros; and where nearby farmers bring their trucks to barter crates of tomatoes and fresh eggs. Sayulita savors a slow pace. Dressing up implies wearing a clean, loose-fitting shirt or shift, and a night on the town means ambling down the road, tasting everything the street-side vendors have to offer. (And, yes, development is creeping in at a condominium clip. but don’t let that stop you.) Most Oregonians arrive in the late

afternoon, after their morning flight and taxi ride to town. My advice is to get yourself settled quickly (see accommodation suggestions below) and start your visit with an icy Mexican beer or cold margarita at the Calypso (west side of the plaza, second floor, Avenida revolución). bartender José rodriguez knows his tequilas and is just the man to make a clean, pared-down-to-theessence margarita. tell him how you like it or let him decide. either way, he’ll hit the mark. Now, it’s time to begin tasting your way around the center of town. If it’s a short stroll your first night in town, then head north from the plaza a block or so on Avenida revolución toward the bridge to Burrito Revolución for a

humongous meal-in-one. Order the smoked marlin or mahi-mahi burrito, sit at the outdoor counter and watch the cooks or the passers-by. If there’s room for something sweet, take two giant steps to the truck parked nightly on the corner. there you’ll find the best churros around — crispy on the outside, smooth and creamy on the inside. Jorge is the one who creates the spiral-twisted fried donuts, and his wife tosses the piping hot curlicues in a cinnamonsugar coating before handing them to you in a paper envelope. For five pesos, your meal is complete. On the other hand, if you’re in the mood for some bite-size morsels, skip the burrito and head north on Avenida revolución until you spot the tacos al pastor vendor selling

his marinated pork on the vertical rotisseries outside Carnicería Trunco’s. before ordering, watch this grill master at work. Notice the piece of fresh pineapple on top of the meat? Its sweet juice drips over the meat, breaking down a protein and making it very tender. After you order, he’ll thinly slice the crusty meat directly on a small, homemade corn tortilla and cover it with onion, cilantro, lime juice, salsa and a small slice of pineapple. betcha can’t eat just one (10 pesos each). to quench your thirst, order a tall glass of agua de jamaica. the tart yet sweet cranberrylike red drink is made from dried hibiscus flowers (for alcohol, you’ll want to cross the street and buy it from one of the

captain Pablo’s local liquor stores). Or walk a bit farther, over the bridge to Tacos on the Street for the irresistible shredded rib-steak tacos (Avenida revolución, across the street from the international school). right about now, you’re asking yourself if it’s safe to eat the salsas, fruits and other produce. I’ve never had a problem with any of the freshly prepared foods here. residents and cooks alike are well aware of the importance of cleaning and purifying the fruits and vegetables before using. An important rule to observe: One vendor does the cooking and food prep while another handles the money. If that’s not the case, skip that vendor for another. (If you’re making your own guacamole and fruit salads, be sure to buy a small bottle of purifier to wash your produce — and use bottled water for rinsing and consumption. Also remember, your digestive tract needs to adjust to its new surroundings, so don’t overeat.) As the nighttime salsa music begins to play, it’s time to either join in or stop by

Sayulita Fish Taco & Tequila Bar with its more than 250 bottles of the agavebased spirit (need I say more?). you also might want to fortify yourself with a bajastyle fish taco or two, because they’re the best in town. the fresh, moist fish is deep-fried in a beer-garlic batter that is crunchy, light and flavorful. be sure to ask for the mango salsa (east side of plaza). Now, it’s time to head home for some shut-eye. tomorrow brings a full day of eating pleasure. breakfast is my favorite meal of the day in Sayulita. (Well, at least until lunch.) For huevos rancheros, I head directly to El Espresso Coffee Company. the corn tortillas are lightly fried and topped with two over-easy eggs and a delectable, fresh and spicy tomato-chile salsa. And, while coffee is not one of Sayulita’s strong points, the lattes here are hot, rich and deeply satisfying (off the plaza at the corner of Avenida revolución and Marlin). Is it pancakes you’re hankering for? then go to Rollie’s. the menu couldn’t say it any better: “For the purist. large

and light as a feather” (two blocks east of the plaza; Avenida revolución, No. 58). Otherwise, you’ll undoubtedly end up at Choco Banana. this is where the day begins for local expatriates. the small, open-air cafe is the perfect place to sit back, peoplewatch and view daily life on the plaza (Avenida revolución at the plaza). time to work off a few calories. A block off the plaza, toward the beach, is a large tree that is home to a group of hefty iguanas. the iguana tree is a protected sanctuary for the bright green reptiles that live among its branches (near the corner of Manuel Navarrete and Marlin). continue along the beachside road, walk down to the beach for a swim or continue on to visit the city’s cemetery. On many of the graves

local produce 79

MexIcO

SAyulItA PuertO VAllArtA

eat here / sayulita cont.

burrito revolution 1 MSRP excludes taxes, titles, licenses and additional options. 26 available incl. stock #DL1663-1, DL1571, L1658, L1715, L1827, L1659 (VINs 017748, 009382, 016198, 018024, 008512, 014505)

Stay and Play

New Year’s Eve Gala

featuring Elite Accommodations - Spa - Dining - Live Entertainment Avalon Hotel & Spa

4650 SW Macadam Avenue, Portland

STAY AND PLAY Package: • • • • • • • •

One-night accommodations for two Three-course dinner for two Two Dance Party tickets - music by Saturated Fats 9:00p- 1:00a Two complimentary drink tickets New Year’s Eve Party favors Midnight champagne toast Complimentary early check-in and late check-out 15% discount on all Spa Services Early Seating: 6:30-8:30p rates starting at $245 Late Seating: 8:30-10:30p rates starting at $299

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you’ll see decorations and flowers from the Day of the Dead, when local families go to visit their dead relatives. If you go to the cemetery, bring your bathing suit and walk through to the secluded beach called La Playa de Los Muertos. It’s where local families like to go, and the surf is calm. Nice place for a picnic. Of course, there’s always shopping. My favorite haunts are the Galería Hamaca for exceptional folk art (north of the plaza next door to choco banana; Avenida revolución, No. 110); America Sansores’ jewelry shop, where Sansores crafts her silver jewelry using myriad semiprecious stones, fossils, claws and shark teeth (My Jewelry Shop; south side of bridge on Pelicanos); and the Sunday Open-Air Market. It’s there you see locals buying their everyday goods, including plastic everything, Mexican pottery and wooden chairs, bowls and platters. A family creating ripe mango flowers on a stick, pineapple drinks and cups brimming with eatas-you-shop fresh fruit adds brilliant good taste (Avenida

revolución at Delfín). All that exploring deserves a midday break for lunch at El Costeño. this rustic, authentic beachfront restaurant is owned by one of the old Sayulita families. you can sit in the covered patio and eat great seafood caught fresh daily (Delfín at beachfront). Afterward, it’s siesta time on the beach in one of Don Pedro’s or Captain Pablo’s restaurant lounge chairs. Sip a piña colada or nibble some sweet things from the snack vendor pushing his wheelbarrow full of colorful candies, dried fruits and nuts (both restaurants on the beachfront). If you’re ready to wrap up your visit and are craving a familiar carbohydrate, check out the Spaghetti Factory. At this tiny, patio-style cafe, the pasta is al dente; the meat sauce is flavorful and the goat cheese with brown butter is reminiscent of the signature dish at that Portland spaghetti place. For 80 pesos, dinner includes garlic bread and salad (tucked up a side street east of the plaza; Gaviotas, No. 35). Or, cross over the bridge to the Macondo Restaurant, where

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el espresso former Portlanders richard and Mary Ann hodge run a small Italian-style restaurant. Order whatever you like, as long as you first try Mary Ann’s classic caesar salad that she creates at your table and save room for a slice of her lemon meringue pie (north of town, past the bridge and baseball field; on the right side). but, if you’re looking for more authentic fare, then keep near

the plaza and go to either El Tejon! at the back of the plaza on the corner of calle Marlin for Marcelo’s Argentinean-style flank steak (arrachera), or venture across the plaza toward calle Palmar and La Afortunados for an icy mojito, some fire-roasted poblano chiles stuffed with manchego cheese and coconut tequila shrimp. buen provecho! (“enjoy your meal!”)

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If you go Getting there: have a passport. Fly to Puerto Vallarta. At the airport, you can take a taxi for around 650 pesos. Or you walk over the pedestrian bridge outside the entrance and it will take you to highway cab hub (400 pesos) and bus stop 25 pesos/many stops) across the street from the airport. Another option is to hire a shuttle service from Sayulita for about $130 round trip (http:// www.sayulitalife.com/ramos-taxi.htm). Money: there are several AtMs in Sayulita. you can use u.S. dollars at most stores, although it’s best to use pesos. there is a money exchange at the airport, but for less stress, bring at least 500 pesos from home. credit and debit cards are useful in a few stores; otherwise, cash. earlier this fall, the exchange rate ran 12.55 pesos to $1.

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Where to stay: best source: lodging link at www.sayulitalife.com. Photos and descriptions make choices easy. Important details: In case of cuts, scratches or “tourista,” there are excellent pharmacies in town with helpful staff and just the right products. For a good night’s sleep amid the jungle noises, breaking surf and late-night music, consider bringing earplugs. For more information about Sayulita, sign up for Sayulita life’s weekly community newsletter at www.sayulitalife.com. £

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Where what goes in the glass is anything but an afterthought. Beaker & Flask 727 S.E. Washington St. 503-235-8180 beakerandflask.com A restaurant often crowded with the exuberant, the hip and the see-and-be-seen, beaker & Flask can seem more a classy bar than a place that boasts a serious menu and accomplished American cooking, with accents from France, spain and italy. but you’d be foolish to think the dark, brooding, glassy elegance signals a preference for drinks over food. there’s a touch of daring about the dishes — who else would

pair grilled pork cheeks and pickled octopus, or place a dome of braised cabbage leaves atop a mound of lentils and wild mushrooms but the talented ben bettinger? sometimes he has a baroque tendency to place too many ingredients on the plate, but when his inventiveness is combined with discreet simplicity, dining here is a pleasure. Clyde Common 1014 S.W. Stark St. 503-228-3333 clydecommon.com if you can get past the communal seating, which robs the dining experience of any hope of intimacy and keeps the volume at a constant roar, there’s some stellar eating at this modern temple to cocktail culture. Chef Chris diminno incorporates international ingredients and cooking techniques into his style, turning northwest

ingredients into expressions of homegrown globalism. you see the cultural crosspollination in simple dishes, such as starters of popcorn tossed with spanish pimentón, and white bean purée with roasted garlic that’s straight out of tuscany. main dishes include plenty of hearty meat, such as grilled fish and braised pork belly, as well as homemade pasta tossed with things like grilled squid, or ravioli stuffed with chicken liver that feels straight out of the old country. but the menu also boasts plenty of clearly marked vegetarian options that have modern touches, such as a salad of baby carrots, watercress and asparagus, indianspiced chickpeas with tangy aioli to cut the heat, and spaghetti simply tossed with spring onions.

scene Bar Avignon 2138 S.E. Division St. 503-517-0808 baravignon.com this quintessential neighborhood restaurant, which opened in 2008, has a small but eclectic and intriguing menu. but unless you are a food aficionado, use the waiter’s help to navigate it. you can’t go wrong, but the risotto verde, for example, uses a nettle pesto. What are nettles? Why use them? What will they taste like? only five entrees were on a recent menu: roast chicken, pork loin, risotto verde, bavette steak and pacific lingcod. plating was excellent with just the right amount of food and surprises with each bite that are a reminder why it’s fun to go out and eat and not have to drop $50 per entree. Biwa 215 S.E. Ninth Ave. 503-239-8830 biwarestaurant.com Hip, hormone-free and oh-soeasy on the wallet, this izakaya (Japan’s twist on a tapas bar) bustles on weekends. don’t look for sushi — it’s not here — but the maguro nuta-ae (chunks of raw yellowfin tuna lounging in a mustard miso sauce; $11) will satisfy your sashimi craving. the handmade gyoza’s ($7) delicate wrapper cradles satisfyingly seasoned pork filling. then it’s on to skewers of beef, chicken, even mushroom (most are $3 and $4, seafood higher). For dessert, try the milk jelly (cream, milk and gelatin, topped with strawberries and hazelnuts; $4). the drink selection is dizzying — from twodozen-plus sakes to plum wine to shochu, a distilled spirit. Fats 2930 N.E. Killingsworth St. 503-206-8261 fatspdx.com if volcanic ash kept you from flying to the u.K. this year, you might have had a reasonable facsimile of a british pub experience at Fats, micah Camden’s casual neighborhood tavern with its traditional pub fare. the crowd shows up in checked shirts, jeans and parkas, not bowler hats, three-piece suits and brollies; still, it feels like a friendly portland version of places with

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names like “the Cock and the Fiddle.” A great list of brews, ciders and flavored beers known as lambics helps wash down the Anglo national dish of chicken tikka masala and the time-honored bangers and mash. don’t miss the great shepherd’s pie made with lentils and parmesan mash, the indian-inflected kedgeree (scallops over rice) and a fine plate of duck and dumplings.

On the cheap

places where stretching your dollars is easy — and tasty. Driftwood Room 729 S.W. 15th Ave. 503-219-2094 hoteldeluxeportland.com Hotel deluxe touts itself as “a contemporary tribute to the Golden era of Hollywood filmmaking,” and its driftwood room cocktail lounge effortlessly plugs you into that mind-set. the driftwood’s angular, wood-lined walls contrast with its curvy banquettes, while low lighting and smoky mirrors add a glamorous just-off-sunset-strip vibe. one of the best happy hours in town comes around twice a day, 3-6 p.m. and 9 p.m.-close. We’re not talking blobby prefab dips and meager White Castle-size burger-ettes. the Grilled oregon beef burger is the full-size deal, with fries on the side. or try the mac & Cheese, with a habitforming crisped top giving way to a cheesy cream sauce underneath. For most-addictive dish, it’s a tossup between the garlicky sizzling Forest mushrooms and the perfectly crunchy french fries with white cheddar on top. Little T American Baker 2600 S.E. Division St. 503-238-3458 littletbaker.com little t is a study in contrasts: Wood tables stand proudly next to sleek stainless-steel counters, and quiet adults sip dark coffee and brush away pale pastry crumbs as restless children cram fat sandwiches into wide mouths without a worry, especially about crumbs. As with the place, the food, too, is a study in

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contrasts: a loaf of bread so good we hungrily shared the entire thing for one satisfying lunch and a sandwich so horribly undercooked we dumped the entire thing into the trash for another. the stars of the show are the breads and pastries. of the breads, our favorite is the airy salt slab ($3.50). think of focaccia. strip it of rosemary, mushrooms or whatever toppings you’re used to. lighten it by 10 — no 20 — percent. then dust it with sea salt. if you require more substance, one of the better options is the mild chicken sandwich ($8) served with an equally mild pickle. A fat chicken breast marinated in a green garlic, arugula and pistachio pesto is roasted, then finished on the grill and topped with a zucchini and corn relish and served on a seven-grain carrot roll. the chicken is bland but cooked to succulent perfection; the relish is both surprising and odd in a sandwich, adding neither sweetness nor serious flavor; and the roll is — not surprisingly — superb, with a pillowy crumb and bold exterior. Oregon Culinary Institute 1701 S.W. Jefferson St. 503-961-6200 oregonculinaryinstitute.com/ restaurant the oregon Culinary institute is one of portland’s two professional culinary training schools.

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the menus are designed by students in their final term, prepared by culinary arts and baking and pastry students, and served by students of the restaurant management program. the seasonal prix fixe menu features three to four options for each course of the meal. the threecourse lunch menu ($9) and the four-course dinner ($18) generally change four times a year, and might be altered slightly throughout the season. the best thing about eating at oCi is they aren’t learning how to cook your typical under-$10 lunch, but learning to handle finer ingredients. even though the preparation isn’t always consistent, dishes include fancy cheeses, fresh vegetables and sought-after meats and fish. the romaine salad is full of thick, crispy bacon pieces; flavorful red onion; and rich, creamy blue cheese dressing. the butter lettuce salad is also a treat, with goat cheese and marcona almonds. For entrees, pan-seared scallops are sizable and served with a nicely seasoned, buttery succotash. entree options also include a pizza of the day, pasta selection and meat dish. Proper Eats Market & Cafe 8638 N. Lombard St. 503-445-2007 propereats.org When you’re running low on dough, it’s time to head to st. Johns, where you can catch a first-run movie matinee at st. Johns Cinema for $4, then

D I S T I L L I N G

scene the walls. that’s why thai Cottage is so refreshing. Classics of the tradition — pad see ew, mussaman curry, etc. — are present and accounted for, but it’s the twists to thai favorites that really stand out. Fresh fruits and vegetables, especially, add color and unexpected bursts of flavor to classic curries, noodles and seafood dishes. As for decor, it’s a mix specific to north portland, featuring photos of local landmarks mixed in with the watercolors of fishing scenes and other southeast Asian knickknacks you might expect to find at a thai restaurant.

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Carafe head across the street for dinner at proper eats. this vegetarian (and vegan) kitchen offers tasty small plates, sandwiches and entrees with an emphasis on healthy, organic fare at affordable prices. if that makes you think of hippie-drippy cuisine, think again: dishes are assembled with an artist’s touch, and most are built around whole grains, beans and veggies, stimulating the palate while being kind to your waistline. How proper! For starters, there’s garlic bread ($2.50) brushed with olive oil and herbs; a creamy spread of avocados blended with soaked sunflower seeds, served with apples and pears ($5.50); and a black bean quesadilla ($5.75). there are a halfdozen salads, and, for heartier appetites, there’s shepherd’s pie ($12), with a bed of cooked greens topped with seasonal veggies, red lentils and a mash of yams and yukon gold and red potatoes, doused in mushroom gravy. Super Torta 710 Washington St., Oregon City 503-722-2306 5640 S.E. Woodstock Blvd., Portland 503-788-3650 nothing cheers a food-loving recessionaire’s stomach faster than a

menu with prices that top out at $7. And at super torta — with locations in oregon City and southeast portland’s Woodstock neighborhood — the prices don’t even begin to do justice to the portions. say you order a burrito: unless you have the unhinging jaw of a snake, you’re not eating without a knife and fork. And the tacos? your clothes will thank you if you eat about half of the heap of filling off the tortillas before making any attempt to pick them up. A word to the fastidious: the shredded beef ($5) is one of the less-drippy versions of the torta, a sandwich built on soft, round telera bread. if you’d rather stick with tortillas, you can find a wider-than-usual selection of burritos and tacos, with fillings such as lengua (tongue), chorizo (sausage), chile relleno and chicken or steak cooked fajita-style. Thai Cottage 8620 N. Lombard St. 503-283-4321 thai food is the new Chinese. in portland, it seems like a new thai restaurant opens on a weekly basis, and many seem to offer almost identical menus. now, if only they could find a common design aesthetic, like all those mexican restaurants with tiles and parrots and sombreros on

Autentica 5507 N.E. 30th Ave. 503-287-7555 autenticaportland.com owner-chef oswaldo bibiano, a semifinalist for this year’s best Chef northwest honors at the James beard Foundation Awards, grew up in a tiny town in Guerrero, a state on mexico’s pacific coast mostly known for its beach resorts of Acapulco, ixtapa and Zihuatanejo. bibiano intently labors in a tiny open kitchen, pumping out an impressive range of traditional and time-consuming regional recipes, many inspired by his grandmother. much of the joy here is found in foods plucked and mopped with the kitchen’s terrific, fist-size homemade corn tortillas. in a style that’s easy to fake, bibiano is the real thing. does it get more authentic than that? Carafe 200 S.W. Market St. 503-248-0004 carafebistro.com every city needs a French bistro, and portland is lucky to have Carafe. the butter-yellow room, furnished with the familiar catalog of parisian cafe fixtures and zinc bar, is a cozy respite from the downtown hustle. start with a French martini shaken with pineapple juice, Chambord and vodka — voilà, you’ve joined the beau monde. it’s France without the attitude and with a much better exchange rate. A greatest-hits list pHotoGrApH by miKe dAvis

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of robust bistro fare, the menu is predictable but nonetheless enticing. Chef/owner pascal sauton isn’t trying to rewrite le grand cuisine, and in today’s climate of showoff chefs, that’s reassuring. Here, French countryside cooking stays true to tradition, but because sauton is obsessive about his handpicked ingredients (Ayers Creek beans, Cattail Creek lamb, etc.), the flavors are bright and alive. most of the main courses stay under $20, a real feat these days, and a nightly prix fixe offers three courses for $25. Lapellah 2520 Columbia House Blvd., Vancouver 360-828-7911 lapellah.com vancouver’s own celebrity chef, brad root, has expanded to an additional location in an empty corner of a new shopping center, with a name — a local tribal term for roast — reflecting his absorption with local themes. you could also get that message from the stylized canoe hanging from the ceiling or from a skilled, imaginative, accessible menu heavy on northwestern themes and big on meats, with flames leaping visibly in the open kitchen. prices are moderate, with just one entree (a wood-fired steak with grilled onions) that tops $20. seafood tends to be fried and impressive, led by a cornmeal-crusted trout stuffed with dungeness crab ($17.95), nightly gumbo (a deal at $10) or shrimp beignets. Lauro Kitchen 3377 S.E. Division St. 503-239-7000 laurokitchen.com owner and executive chef david machado has deep connections to many of the best cooks in town, and that has made lauro seem

a little familiar. now the eclectic menu accommodates more influences from the Arab side of the mediterranean as well as portugal, machado’s familial homeland. Greek, French, spanish and italian dishes are still present, as is a solid cheeseburger with fries. this last is especially telling: For all its sophistication, lauro has always felt like a neighborhood restaurant, and it’s not unusual to see the airy room dotted with families, as little kids gobble up fried calamari or meze or pizzas while their parents get to eat and drink a more nuanced menu. Screen Door 2337 E. Burnside St. 503-542-0880 screendoorrestaurant.com biscuits from the oven, ham on the grill and maple syrup warming in a pan are a powerful perfume at screen door, priming customers’ appetites. With a weekend-only brunch menu long on comforts such as praline bacon, malted waffles and fluffy egg scrambles (breakfast mains: $6.95-$11.95), it’s no surprise that the place is always packed. Fortunately, the cooks and servers have the drill down, producing hot, piled-high plates in record time. pay close attention to the ample specials sheet, offering seasonal dishes and chef’s whims including corn dogs with cracked pepper cane syrup (stuffed with quality pork sausage, not cocktail wieners), coffeecake threaded with hunks of apple, and whopping oatmeal-buttermilk pancakes that are surprisingly light ($3.25-$12.95). disciplined eaters can get by on $10 a head for breakfast, but with so many good things to choose from, you’d be wise to budget $15 per person. pHotoGrApH by rAndy l. rAsmussen

Hillsdale - SW Capitol Hwy

Su n

se tB lv d

Alba Osteria & Enoteca Flavorful cuisine inspired purely by the northern Piedmont region of Italy, Chef Kurt Spak serves fresh pastas like egg-rich tajarin with butter and sage, hand-pinched agnolotte, and rabbit braised in Arnels, paired with an extensive selection of Italian wines (Borolos, Barbarescos). Rich, decadent Italian desserts provide a perfect ending to an unforgettable meal. Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday 6440 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.977.3045 www.albaosteria.com

hway SW Capitol Hig

5 7 4 8

Three Square Grill

Baker & Spice

Tue-Fri 6am-6pm; Sat 7am-6pm; Sun 7am-3pm 6330 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.244.7573 www.bakerandspicebakery.com

With an emphasis on regional American foods, traditional preparations, and close relationships with local farmers and producers, Three Square Grill has been Hillsdale’s neighborhood restaurant since 1995 as well as the home of Picklopolis – The Kingdom of the Brine, purveyor of ﬁne pickles and preserves. Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday, 5 - 9 p.m. Breakfast: Sunday, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m. 6320 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.244.4467 www.threesquare.com www.picklopolis.com

Baker & Spice provides a warm and inviting space where you can chat with a friend over a coffee and croissant. As a small batch bakery we use traditional methods and the highest quality ingredients to create our pastries, cakes, breads and savories. Order now for your Holiday favorites such as Stollen, Buche de Noel and more.

SW Ber t

Blv d

Food Front

hway SW Capitol Hig

SW Bea ver ton -H

ills dal

Caffé Autogrill

Experience the ﬂavors of Italy with fresh Tramezzine and Panini sandwiches at Caffe Autogrill. We carry a full menu of soups and salads. Homemade breakfast including quiche, scones and coffee cake, and featuring Stumptown coffee. Fresh pastas from Alba Osteria.

6446 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.892.9999

Food Front is Hillsdale’s freshest source for local and natural foods including organic produce; ﬁne wines; artisan breads & cheeses; fresh, local meats; and fair trade coffee and chocolate. On Sunday, Dec. 5th, all shoppers get 10% off and can warm up with free chili, hot chocolate, and apple cider.

Paloma Clothing Paloma Clothing offers a unique, fun collection of women’s clothing and accessories including charming hats, scarves and locally made jewelry. Excellent service and knowledgeable staff. Holiday Open House Thursday – Sunday, Dec 2 – 5

Open 8am-9pm Daily 6344 SW Capitol Hwy. Hillsdale Shopping Center 503.546.6559 www.foodfront.coop

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Sweetwares Hillsdale Eye Care

www.HillsdaleBusiness.org

Hillsdale Eye Care is dedicated to providing personalized eye care based on the patient’s individual needs. We enjoy working with patients requiring demanding visual needs such as sports vision, difﬁcult to ﬁt contact lens (bifocal or astigmatism) and children’s eye care. Call for appointment, open 6 days a week. 1522 SW Sunset Blvd. 503.672.9190 www.hillsdaleeye.com

Hillsdale Neighborhood

At SweetWares, we love to bake and want to share that passion with others. We have stocked our shelves with a carefullyselected array of simple and useful tools of our trade. We have wares to lure a new baker into the kitchen or to bring a bit of excitement back to an expert baker looking for a muse. We offer classes where you can brush up on familiar techniques or learn the latest trick in cake decorating. Located 8 doors from our sister bakery, Baker & Spice. 6306 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.546.3737 www.sweetwares.com

Korkage Wine Shop Enjoy live music and wine tasting in an intimate setting, featuring local boutique wineries and selected picks from around the World. The Korkage Chef, former instructor at one of the top hospitality schools in the country, offers expert small bite pairings and wine consults -- ﬁnd just the right bottle to bring to your special holiday event! 6351 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.293.3146 www.korkagewine.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Darcy Paquette at 503.221.8299 or darcy@sales.oregonian.com

Featured shoe: The foot-friendly Professional by Dansko

neiGhbOrhOOd favOrites sOUthWest Alba Osteria & Enoteca: you’d be hard-pressed to find piedmontese cooking as good as Alba osteria’s anywhere this side of, well, Alba, italy. Chef-owner Kurt spak’s affinity for the land of truffles, porcini and barolo shows in his delicate, hand-formed pastas and creamy bagna cauda gratins. (6440 s.W. Capitol Highway; 503977-3045; albaosteria.com)

Born to serve.

H AW T HOR NE BL V D 3 4 2 6 SE Haw t hor ne te le phone 50 3 2 3 3 74 7 6 P E A R L DI S T R IC T 9 3 5 N W E v e r e t t te le phone 50 3 5 95 4 9 7 0

Shop online at imeldasandlouies.com

Original Pancake House: you will wait in line, you will be fed massive portions and you will need to bring cash or a checkbook, because no plastic is accepted. in a way, that’s fitting, because the decor and food feel so old-time. (8601 s.W. 24th Ave., 503-2469007; originalpancakehouse.com) Three Square Grill: Chef david barber is known for his fresh takes on American comfort classics, such as fried chicken and waffles, corned beef hash, and matzo ball soup. A neighborhood destination. (6320 s.W. Capital Highway; 503-244-4467)

nOrth 88

Fire on the Mountain: the budget-friendly, deep-fried buffalostyle chicken wings are easily the best in town. (4225 n. interstate Ave., 503-280-9464; portlandwings.com. Also at 1708 e. burnside st., 503-230-9464)

picture perfect present

R E PA I R S

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Little Red Bike Cafe: From its insistence on using sustainably harvested local eggs, milk and produce to its generous discount for customers who arrive on bicycle, this small breakfastand-lunch eatery epitomizes the chutzpah and creativity that have made portland a national media darling. (4823 n. lombard st.; 503-289-0120; littleredbikecafe.com)

SALES

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R E N TA L S

CAMERASOLUTIONS 6401 sw macadam ave, portland | 503.452.3907 | camerasolutionsinc.com

Lupa: With 14 seats and candlelight, this wine bar is for hushed conversations and romantic glances, along with lovely bythe-glass selections and simple nibbles of marcona almonds, olives, salami and sardines. (3955 n. mississippi Ave., 503-287-5872; lupawine.com) Mee-Sen Thai Eatery: A tier above typical neighborhood thai; best bet is to try something you’ve never heard of. (3924 n.

mississippi Ave.; 503-445-1909; meesenpdx.com) Mississippi Marketplace: it’s hard not to love this scrappy pod of food carts, which sprouted late last year and includes nuevo mexico, the Good egg, the sugar Cube, Garden state, native bowl and ruby dragon — all among the best carts in the city’s street food scene. (4233 n. mississippi Ave.; missmarketplace.com) Por Que No: there’s a reason you’ll almost always find long lines at this taqueria, and it starts with the handmade tortillas that are used for the tacos and the fresh salsas that accompany fish and crave-worthy tamales. (3524 n. mississippi Ave.; 503-4674149; porquenotacos.com. Also at 4635 s.e. Hawthorne blvd.; 503-954-3138) Tasty n Sons: Chef John Gorham goes for gold again with his new daily brunch spot. think toro bravo — with eggs. (3808 n. Williams Ave., suite C; 503-6211400; tastynsons.com)

nOrtheast Beast: the food here is inspired by France, but the unvarnished aesthetic is pure portland. Chef naomi pomeroy’s poetic dinner menus are daunting at first read, but part of beast’s genius lies in trim portions that leave you craving one more bite (but grateful someone else is making the decisions) and well-timed intervals between courses. (5425 n.e. 30th Ave.; 503-841-6968; beastpdx.com) Blossoming Lotus: this vegan kitchen makes organic, sustainable dishes, with a lot of offerings for people who follow a raw diet. At lunchtime, there are wraps and rice bowls, with more imaginative entrees taking over at night. (1713 n.e. 15th Ave.; 503-228-0048; blpdx.com) Ciao Vito: Chef vito dilullo is a veteran of both Higgins and Caffe mingo, and the pedigree shows in his homey italian fare. don’t miss the signature razor clams or the simple spaghetti adorned with garlic, olive oil and bread crumbs. (2203 n.e. Alberta st., 503-282-5522, ciaovito.net)

fOr a cOmPlete listinG Of OUr dininG revieWs GO tO mixPdx.cOm

Multnomah Village FRIDAY, DECEMBER 3 • Tree Lighting at 6:42 p.m. • Visit with Santa • Carriage Rides 4-9 p.m. at Multnomah Arts Center 6-9 p.m. at Key Bank • Caroling 7 p.m. Led by Mark Bosinan, Oregon Music Hall of Famer • Open Doors Art Show 10 a.m. – 8 a.m. Multnomah Arts Center • Strolling Carolers

SATURDAY, DECEMBER 4 • Kiwanis Pancake Breakfast with Santa 8:30 a.m. - 10:30 a.m. Lucky Lab • Open Doors Art Show 10 a.m. – 8 a.m. • Strolling Carolers

Multnomah Village

The village in the Heart of Portland Shop Local All Month Long with Holiday Golden Ticket Discounts Minutes from Downtown – I5 South, Exit 293B

multnomahvillage.org

TASTING IS BELIEVING. An American Diner with a Mediterranean Flair.

· BREAKFAST · LUNCH · DINNER ·

BEST GYROS ON THE WESTSIDE! l

ANTONI

RESTAURANT, DINER, AND LOUNGE

3076891V01

Open Late Night 503-601-8522 • 10765 SW Canyon Rd., Beaverton

hiGh five qUick bread Quick breads have long been a secret weapon that home bakers employ to deal with a late summer avalanche of zucchini or bananas that are a few stages past being ripe. but the city’s best bakeries know that the comforting flavors make people think of home — particularly during the fall and winter. — Grant Butler and Danielle Centoni

CERTIFIED SUSTAINABLE - ESTATE GROWN

baker & spice

Est. 1995

Visit us at our new hillside Tasting Room! Open daily 11-4

www.willakenzie.com

19143 N.E. Laughlin Road - Yamhill, OR 97148

Back to Eden Bakery Boutique: this all-vegan bakery specializes in elaborate cakes, pastries and ornately frosted cupcakes, but don’t overlook its simpler breakfast fare like the moist quick breads. standards like cranberry-walnut bread and banana bread turn up regularly, but look for unusual flavor combinations like pineapplecoconut or marionberry-spice. 2217 N.E. Alberta St. 503-477-5022 backtoedenbakery.com Baker & Spice: this Hillsdale bakery is known for its a.m. pastries, and most days you’ll find a 1-inch-thick slice of Garden bread ($2.25), a moist quick bread studded with bits of zucchini and carrots and topped with slivers of almonds. during the fall and winter, keep an eye out for variations on pumpkin bread ($2.50), such as a recent slice studded with bits of chocolate and topped with toasted pumpkin seeds. 6330 S.W. Capitol Highway 503-244-7573 bakerandspicebakery.com Bakery Bar: baker Jocelyn barda is known for elaborate celebration cakes and cupcakes, but breakfast breads get star treatment, too. Witness a recent moist pumpkin bread with cream cheese frosting, and a chocolate-coffee bread with coffee glaze that’s designed to wake you up on groggy pHotoGrApH by douG beGHtel

mornings (though it could have used more coffee flavor throughout). the large slices run $2.50-$2.75 each. 2935 N.E. Glisan St. 503-477-7779 bakerybar.com Beaverton Bakery: For 85 years, this old-school bakery has been churning out fromscratch treats that change with the season, and during the holidays it’s a destination for traditional fruitcakes, German stollen and petit fours decorated with snowmen and candy canes. one staple always in the bakery case is loaf breads, which are more dense than quick breads but perfect for tea or evening snacking. look for banana and poppy seed, as well as a lemon that has just the right balance of tangy citrus and buttery sweetness. 12375 S.W. Broadway, Beaverton 503-646-7136 beavertonbakery.com Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts: unless you’re actually a student at portland’s le Cordon bleu, it’s easy to forget about the school’s groundfloor cafe inside the Galleria. but that’s a shame because the student-made pastries are perfectly executed and downright cheap. look for fragrant banana bread — light and cakelike with deep banana flavor — which will set you back just $1.25. 600 S.W. 10th Ave. 503-294-9770 chefs.edu/portland £

LAKE OSWEGO: Downtown

LAKE OSWEGO: Kruse Way area PCC

A Ave

(to

N State St

1st St

2nd St

43 2

downtown)

217

Evergreen Rd

Kruse Way

Lak eB ay C t 2

THE ARTISAN

• Sample Extra Virgin Olive Oils, Aged Balsamics, and Nut Oils, all hand-bottled to order. • A unique selection of gourmet foods: balsamic sauces, pastas, stuffed olives, and more!

Dyke has as been creating custom gold and platinum jewelry since 1970. Along with a wide selection of Dyke’s custom jewelry, the showroom also features ﬁne quality designer jewelry from around the world. We hope your visit to our showroom will be one of the most satisfying jewelry experiences you will ever have.

Need a holiday gift idea? Come in or call us to create the perfect holiday gift! We ship anywhere in the U.S. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-4 438 1st Street 503.675.6457 www.oilerie.com/lakeoswego.php

Hours: Tue-Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-4pm

267 A Avenue, Lake Oswego 503.635.4590 www.artisanframinglo.com

Portland’s Only Olive Oil Bar® Store! Taste before you buy!

CUSTOM FRAMING & GALLERY

27 “A” Avenue • 503.636.4025 www.vandenburghjewelers.com

Find us on Facebook 6

Lakewood Bay

“Wishing you Happy Holidays and a Joyous New Year”

▲ N

Willamette River

Exit 292-B

3rd St

Country Club Rd

4th St

B Ave 5th St

Kerr Parkway

6th St

▲ N

7th St

I-5

C Ave

Boones Ferry R d

-Sylvania Campus

Lakeside Home & Gift From high design to a touch of whimsy, Lakeside has a huge selection of unique gifts and home decor. Share in the splendor of this holiday season with 8 fully and fashionably decorated Christmas tres and thousands of ornaments and decorations. Let us help you make your home festive and your gift-giving easy! “Let Lakeside Home & Gift feather your holiday nest” 101 A Ave 503.974.9230 www.lakesidehomeandgift.com 8

Lady Di’s

British Store

& Tea Room

Play Boutique Children learn. Parents connect. Families balance. The PLAY Boutique is an innovative space that offers a café, creative play, lifestyle & wellness services, enriching activities, and a profound sense of community. In addition to pre-school, we offer a myriad of options for newborn through grade school, including Skills Camps, Stay & Play times, Drop & Go times, Coffee Breaks, Happy Hours, and a host of seasonal activities for both parents and children. We also host themed birthday parties for kids of all ages. 464 First Street 503.962.0350 www.playboutique.com

World Class Wines Exceptional wines at exceptional prices. • Affordable wines from around the world • Friday night tastings • Private tastings by reservation • Holiday baskets now available for order 269 “A” Avenue 503.974.9841 www.worldclasswinesoregon.com

Lake Oswego Marketplace

Add some ﬂair to your holidays . . . change your lampshade and brighten your day! Approximately 9,000 shades to choose from. Bring in your Lamp for a Proper Fit. Restyling Accessories, Rewiring, Parts 15942 SW Boones Ferry Road 503.636.1884 www.naomislampsandshades.com

Bring some British charm into your life this holiday season! Our delightful store is ﬁlled with over 500 imported British foods, gifts, teas & china. Take time with friends and enjoy a traditional tea with sandwiches, scones, crumpets & more in our Tea Room between 11am and 3:30pm Mon-Sat. Store hours Mon-Sat 10-5pm 430 Second St, Lake Oswego 503.635.7298 Find us on Facebook

To advertise in Marketplace contact Leah Davidson at 503.221.8300 or leahd@sales.oregonian.com

One shOt “Sabering” a bottle of Champagne was the parlor trick at Cheryl Wakerhauser and Tobias Hogan’s Champagne and oyster party (Page 41). The idea is to deftly slide a blade (traditionally a sword or saber) up the neck of the bottle until it smacks into the rim and breaks it off cleanly. When it works, it’s a cool thing to see...but not nearly as cool as when there’s a catastrophic fail, as in this picture. Why break it off at the neck, when you can just machete the bottle right in half? Could photographer Mike Davis have captured any more exquisite expressions? PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS

Pairs Perfectly with the View 3PECTACULAR VIEWS 0RIME STEAKS &INE WINES !ND MUCH MORE 0ORTLAND #ITY 'RILL HAS IT ALL 7HETHER YOU RE TAKING A BREAK FROM YOUR BUSY SCHEDULE OR SIMPLY ENJOYING OUR TASTY COCKTAILS WITH FRIENDS WE KNOW HOW TO MAKE YOUR VISIT A SPECIAL ONE 3O COME TO 0ORTLAND S FINEST AND TOAST WITH US TO THE GOOD THINGS IN LIFE AND A GREAT CITY 3ALUT

Make your holiday event reservation today and experience the best Portland has to offer. FOR HOLIDAY PART Y RESERVATIONS, CONTACT ALYSSA DODGE AT 503-450-0030

0ORTLAND#ITY'RILL COM

37 4( !6% 4( &,//2 s 0/24, !.$ /2 s 503.450.0030